RV10-Archive.digest.vol-hh

November 11, 2010 - November 24, 2010



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________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: FW: RV 10 40409 released from the womb
Date: Nov 11, 2010
Congrats John... on you way to a hangar? Jeff Carpenter On Nov 11, 2010, at 12:11 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > > Next house I build will have bigger doors or all planes I build will > be of scaled down proportions. > > A great line from the Incredibles, "Would you care for another > mimosa?" 2.jpg> 4.jpg> 6.jpg> 8.jpg> 11.jpg> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 2010
Subject: Re: RV 10 40409 released from the womb
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
So what was the cost & # of mid-wives needed for this birth. ;-)) Congrats. 0nly 91-92% to go. On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 1:11 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > > Next house I build will have bigger doors or all planes I build will be of > scaled down proportions. > > A great line from the Incredibles, "Would you care for another mimosa?" ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Sensor Platform
From: "David Shelton" <SBaircraft(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 11, 2010
Section 91.319 makes it clear that we can't "carrying persons or property for compensation or hire." This would clearly prevent us from carrying a paying photographer but it doesn't necessarily stop us from taking pictures ourselves. Amateur-built aircraft are regularly used for paying air show performances, skywriting, aerial photography, etc. A handful of law enforcement agencies use them for aerial surveillance. These applications don't carry any persons or property for hire and there is no clear ruling against them. Admittedly, the FARs are a little vague in this area and we leave their interpretation up to the customer. In other instances, it is appropriate to convert the airworthiness certificate to another experimental category. For example, one of our customers will be using an RV-10 to evaluate a new type of sensor they are working on. They will be switching to the "Research and Development" category. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319073#319073 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Windows and hysol
Date: Nov 11, 2010
If I recall correctly, Rob Hickman bumped one of his windows that had been installed with Hysol and it popped right out. I was planning on using Hysol, but changed back to Weld-On after reading Rob's write up on it. David Maib 40559 Flying On Nov 11, 2010, at 9:11 AM, dapb37(at)aol.com wrote: Can anybody recall what the problem was in using hysol for the rv 10 windows ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for a quick build right wing!
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 11, 2010
Sorry about the incident and the damage. I hope that I am not asking too foolish of a question, but from what I can see (wing ok from fuel tank inward), why don't you just pull the wing off and rebuild it with new parts from Vans. Maybe there is other damage that I cannot see. From the pic, I cannot imagine spending more than $300-500 on parts. If you are not the original builder or cannot retain him/her. Get an RV builder to help you and get it signed off by an I/A. I figure 100-150 hrs max to fix it (plus painting). By the way - how did the plane handle and land after the collision? -------- See you OSH '11 Q/B - flying 1 yr+ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319081#319081 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Vans fuel floats and miniumum fuel
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 11, 2010
I have a AFS3500 and Vans fuel floats. What do you guys out there consider a minimum fuel level for safe flight. I have been using 7-8 gallons in each side as a minimum. This lets me use either side in the landing pattern with no worry about un-porting. -------- See you OSH '11 Q/B - flying 1 yr+ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319083#319083 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2010
Subject: Wheel Bearings and Grease
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I'm getting close to being on the gear and I noticed Vans calls for Aeroshell #5 within the plans. So that's what I purchased from ACS and it came in today. Just a few minutes ago I noticed the Cleveland wheels in the finish kit have Mobil Aviation SHC 100 already in the bearings. (Not sure if they're packed though) What does one need to know of or be cautious of when mixing grease types? Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Brake caliper Viton O-rings for RV-10
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Nov 12, 2010
Just a heads up. I found the Viton O-rings part number M83248/I-224 V-75 at McMaster Carr under part number 1201T856. It looks to me like everything matches up and it is mil spec. http://www.mcmaster.com/#orders/=9ow7a8 -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319162#319162 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings and Grease
Date: Nov 12, 2010
I've always been told not to mix grease (A&P school) but here is a chart I found. http://www.finalube.com/reference_material/grease_compatibility_chart.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: Phillip Perry To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 12, 2010 3:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Bearings and Grease I'm getting close to being on the gear and I noticed Vans calls for Aeroshell #5 within the plans. So that's what I purchased from ACS and it came in today. Just a few minutes ago I noticed the Cleveland wheels in the finish kit have Mobil Aviation SHC 100 already in the bearings. (Not sure if they're packed though) What does one need to know of or be cautious of when mixing grease types? Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: wheel pants spacers
Date: Nov 12, 2010
Rather than make the spacers out of aluminium tubing between wheel pant bracket and brake. They are supposed to be made 21/32" long. Three per side. There is a 9368T44 from Mcmaster Carr when added to a .016 aluminium washer at each end will serve as well or better. My wheel pants don't move but for those who do this maybe a good solution. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings and Grease
Don't mix. Don't use automotive. Only aircraft wheel bearing grease is formulated to handle the instantaneous spool up when you land. You already have the Aeroshell. Clean out the other grease and use it. Esp for Texas and other southern climes. I understand using something different for cold country. On 11/12/2010 3:30 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > I'm getting close to being on the gear and I noticed Vans calls for > Aeroshell #5 within the plans. So that's what I purchased from ACS > and it came in today. > > Just a few minutes ago I noticed the Cleveland wheels in the finish > kit have Mobil Aviation SHC 100 already in the bearings. (Not sure if > they're packed though) > > What does one need to know of or be cautious of when mixing grease types? > > Phil > > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2010
From: <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: X Country Questions
Just completed a Maine to California trip in the 10. What a wonderful long range machine!! But, as usual, the flight generated a few questions: 1) Regardless of height (6500 up to 12500) the plane seemed to "like" 2100rpm and MAPs at 22-23 the best. Increasing RPM or MAPs (at lower altitudes) would only gain a few knots increase but a greatly increased fuel flow. The 2100/22.5 settings gave me fuel flows in the low 11s down to low 9s depending on altitude. Throughout the altitudes TAS was always between 151 and 156. I always ran 100ROP. Are these numbers what others are seeing on long flights? 2) I have the butterfly control air flow for the after market oil cooler. In order to keep the oil temp at 180 I ALWAYS have to keep the valve at least partially closed even on long climb outs. The temps in Maine (and on the X country flight) are usually cool but even on day with OATs in the 70s I still can't open the valve all the way. (I have checked my oil temp gauge--by using my wife's high priced electronic candy thermometer probe (please don't tell)---and it is spot on.) So two questions: a) Are other people experiencing these seemingly low temps? and b) When one is on a long flight is it okay, or even better for the engine, to have oil temps down in the 160s? 3) The flight confirmed the fact that I need XM weather. Had to do two unscheduled stops because of what I saw out front but couldn't be seen by Flight Service. I had an IPAD with Foreflight and SkyCharts which were wonderful for situational awareness and planning but, of course, no weather. I have a two screen GRT setup with a 430W. What are my options for XM? Should I wait until ABSD is implemented? Will there be an XM APP for the IPAD? Or should I go ahead and get the very expensive GRT weather receiver? 4) The flight also confirmed that I need oxygen and a system that will be a permanent part of the equipment. Although I didn't go above 14K there was one occasion that a level of 16500 would have let me go straight instead of a wide detour. Does anyone have "numbers" (rpm,ff,etc) at these higher altitudes? And is there a consensus on the type of oxygen system to install? As always, thanks for the help/advice. Jay Rowe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution...
Dear Listers, A quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided for my your Contributions during this time of the year. Your personal Contribution makes a big difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free. Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: X Country Questions
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2010
I think the only consensus you'll find on this list is that the RV-10 is a great plane. Beyond that, there are differing opinions on every option. Personally, I like the Garmin Aera for weather because I can take it with me in whatever plane I fly, but that might not fit you. Personally, I like flying high and using oxygen, but I also like flying at or lean of peak at high altitudes. I've seen tas of 160 kits burning under 9 gph at 16k+. Personally, I like the portable SkyOx system because it's inexpensive & I only have to take it when I expect to use it. I can easily pull it out & refill it from our welding tanks in the shop. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone On Nov 12, 2010, at 9:46 PM, wrote: > > Just completed a Maine to California trip in the 10. What a wonderful long range machine!! But, as usual, the flight generated a few questions: > 1) Regardless of height (6500 up to 12500) the plane seemed to "like" 2100rpm and MAPs at 22-23 the best. Increasing RPM or MAPs (at lower altitudes) would only gain a few knots increase but a greatly increased fuel flow. The 2100/22.5 settings gave me fuel flows in the low 11s down to low 9s depending on altitude. Throughout the altitudes TAS was always between 151 and 156. I always ran 100ROP. Are these numbers what others are seeing on long flights? > 2) I have the butterfly control air flow for the after market oil cooler. In order to keep the oil temp at 180 I ALWAYS have to keep the valve at least partially closed even on long climb outs. The temps in Maine (and on the X country flight) are usually cool but even on day with OATs in the 70s I still can't open the valve all the way. (I have checked my oil temp gauge--by using my wife's high priced electronic candy thermometer probe (please don't tell)---and it is spot on.) So two questions: a) Are other people experiencing these seemingly low temps? and b) When one is on a long flight is it okay, or even better for the engine, to have oil temps down in the 160s? > 3) The flight confirmed the fact that I need XM weather. Had to do two unscheduled stops because of what I saw out front but couldn't be seen by Flight Service. I had an IPAD with Foreflight and SkyCharts which were wonderful for situational awareness and planning but, of course, no weather. I have a two screen GRT setup with a 430W. What are my options for XM? Should I wait until ABSD is implemented? Will there be an XM APP for the IPAD? Or should I go ahead and get the very expensive GRT weather receiver? > 4) The flight also confirmed that I need oxygen and a system that will be a permanent part of the equipment. Although I didn't go above 14K there was one occasion that a level of 16500 would have let me go straight instead of a wide detour. Does anyone have "numbers" (rpm,ff,etc) at these higher altitudes? And is there a consensus on the type of oxygen system to install? > As always, thanks for the help/advice. Jay Rowe > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2010
Subject: Re: X Country Questions
Jay, That airspeed seems about right for the power setting. I have to admit I don't keep close track anymore, but I'd be surprised to see a TAS below 157. I flight plan for 160 at 10GPH on longer, higher trips. Above 8500' I usually run wide open for what ever MAP that gives me and set the prop between 2200 and 2300. Then I lean until it runs as rough as I can stand (not very), and that gets me 160-162 KTAS on 10.5 GPH, with less fuel as I go higher. My engine doesn't go terribly lean of peak and I haven't balanced the injectors. I've seen it below 9 GPH above 15000'. TAS drops off a little, maybe 4-5 knots up that high. For oil temp, you want it to get close to 200 at least for a little while during each flight, to drive off condensation. 160 is pretty low but it doesn't seem like you've seen even moderately high OATs yet. You're right, you need weather. It's a game changer. I think XM is great but ADSB looks pretty good too. I never thought I'd use oxygen but it really allows you to use a ton more of the plane's potential. Where are you in CA? Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 6:46 PM, wrote: > > Just completed a Maine to California trip in the 10. What a wonderful long range machine!! But, as usual, the flight generated a few questions: > 1) Regardless of height (6500 up to 12500) the plane seemed to "like" 2100rpm and MAPs at 22-23 the best. Increasing RPM or MAPs (at lower altitudes) would only gain a few knots increase but a greatly increased fuel flow. The 2100/22.5 settings gave me fuel flows in the low 11s down to low 9s depending on altitude. Throughout the altitudes TAS was always between 151 and 156. I always ran 100ROP. Are these numbers what others are seeing on long flights? > 2) I have the butterfly control air flow for the after market oil cooler. In order to keep the oil temp at 180 I ALWAYS have to keep the valve at least partially closed even on long climb outs. The temps in Maine (and on the X country flight) are usually cool but even on day with OATs in the 70s I still can't open the valve all the way. (I have checked my oil temp gauge--by using my wife's high priced electronic candy thermometer probe (please don't tell)---and it is spot on.) So two questions: a) Are other people experiencing these seemingly low temps? and b) When one is on a long flight is it okay, or even better for the engine, to have oil temps down in the 160s? > 3) The flight confirmed the fact that I need XM weather. Had to do two unscheduled stops because of what I saw out front but couldn't be seen by Flight Service. I had an IPAD with Foreflight and SkyCharts which were wonderful for situational awareness and planning but, of course, no weather. I have a two screen GRT setup with a 430W. What are my options for XM? Should I wait until ABSD is implemented? Will there be an XM APP for the IPAD? Or should I go ahead and get the very expensive GRT weather receiver? > 4) The flight also confirmed that I need oxygen and a system that will be a permanent part of the equipment. Although I didn't go above 14K there was one occasion that a level of 16500 would have let me go straight instead of a wide detour. Does anyone have "numbers" (rpm,ff,etc) at these higher altitudes? And is there a consensus on the type of oxygen system to install? > As always, thanks for the help/advice. Jay Rowe > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Door Strut Update
Date: Nov 13, 2010
I ordered a set. No hassle works great. Thanks Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 2:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door Strut Update I found a Gas Strut with the same specs as the Stabllus 2218LP (600 newton pressure) that is a drop in fit to the original strut from Van's. Bansbach Easylift in Melbourne FL, www.easylift.com, tel. 800-225-4498 and they stock them. Item code 10017y1; p/n A1A1F50-100-287/600N at $62.00 each. I have installed them and they work great. Hope they last longer than Van's original ones. Blue Skys Barry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2010
Subject: iPad bracket
I doubt this would work in an airplane due to turbulence driving down the iPad but in theory this mounted to the top of the canopy would allow of excellent positioning to review content and then swing away when not in use . Robin [image: http://cache.gawkerassets.com/assets/images/4/2010/10/griffincabinetdock.jp g] Description What luxury to have cabinet-mounted iPad! What luxury to have an iPad at all, really. At $70 (plus the cost of an iPad) lazy recipe-readers could have one under every cupboard in the kitchen. Sign me up for 10. Griffin's cabinet mount dock is probably not intended for holding an iPad permanently, but I like to imagine people will have one in the kitchen, the garage and even the bathroom. Stuff prising it out of the brackets every time you want to use it, right? Amirite? The mount's arm rotates by 360-degrees, and the whole 'pad can move 90-degrees so it aligns flush under a cupboard, and then can be pulled out when in use. In the US it's $70, and in the UK it's =A350, available now. [ Griffin <http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/cabinet-mount-ipad>] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Update
Date: Nov 13, 2010
Vans has a HD model of the gas strut for the same price that is thestabilus 2218lp. I just ordered one. Regards, Robert Robert Brunkenhoefer Sent from my Apple iPad On Nov 13, 2010, at 2:29 PM, gary wrote: > > I ordered a set. No hassle works great. Thanks > > Gary Specketer > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz > Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 2:13 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Door Strut Update > > > I found a Gas Strut with the same specs as the Stabllus 2218LP (600 > newton pressure) that is a drop in fit to the original strut from > Van's. Bansbach Easylift in Melbourne FL, www.easylift.com, tel. > 800-225-4498 and they stock them. Item code 10017y1; p/n > A1A1F50-100-287/600N at $62.00 each. I have installed them and they > work great. Hope they last longer than Van's original ones. Blue Skys > Barry > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Strut Update
From: "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2010
I have 2 of the Van's heavy duty struts. One works fine it is I a little quick going up but not bad. The other one you have to watch because it snaps up Very quickly from 90 degrees up. It seems the dampening in that strut is Bad. It has been that way since new. If you opened the door and forgot to Slow it down if the wind caught it going Up that could be bad. I feel if that happened it could damage the door Where hinges mount. I do like the heavy duty hinges even though one of mine is a little squirly. I have that On pilot door. Geoff Sent from my iPhone Geoff On Nov 13, 2010, at 5:59 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote: > > Vans has a HD model of the gas strut for the same price that is thestabilus 2218lp. I just ordered one. Regards, Robert > > Robert Brunkenhoefer > Sent from my Apple iPad > > On Nov 13, 2010, at 2:29 PM, gary wrote: > >> >> I ordered a set. No hassle works great. Thanks >> >> Gary Specketer >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz >> Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 2:13 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Door Strut Update >> >> >> I found a Gas Strut with the same specs as the Stabllus 2218LP (600 >> newton pressure) that is a drop in fit to the original strut from >> Van's. Bansbach Easylift in Melbourne FL, www.easylift.com, tel. >> 800-225-4498 and they stock them. Item code 10017y1; p/n >> A1A1F50-100-287/600N at $62.00 each. I have installed them and they >> work great. Hope they last longer than Van's original ones. Blue Skys >> Barry >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2010
Subject: This plane is for the dogs.
Major relocation for my family this month. A real Planes, Trains and Automobile kind of day. My wife and daughter flew off the Atlanta for 28 days. NO! not rehab. We shipped my mother-in-law back to SLO on the train (baggage class) and I flew the luggage and dogs out on a late afternoon flight as the sun turning the corner towards Hawaii. Sorry no XM music for the hounds. [image: http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs580.ash2/150293_1525442814944 _1200862780_31216842_4747099_n.jpg] Abby [image: http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs943.snc4/73601_1525442694941_ 1200862780_31216841_90115_n.jpg] [image: http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs894.snc4/72752_1525442454935_ 1200862780_31216839_6944959_n.jpg] Boo [image: http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1139.snc4/148180_152544257493 8_1200862780_31216840_6144066_n.jpg] Santa Barbara in the foreground. [image: http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1141.snc4/148378_152544301494 9_1200862780_31216844_6300463_n.jpg] It often goes without saying but=85 Keep building it is worth it. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wheel pant spacer replacements
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2010
I decided to make them for me after Tim's write-up. It was good timing since I could easily switch mine out and not wait until they wear out. I put them on PlaneAround.com if anyone is interested in this model. They are one piece. You have to take the axle bolt out to install them but it took me about ten minutes to switch them out. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319306#319306 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Moved the plane!
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2010
The weather was good enough to move the plane today. It is at Scott's hangar safe and sound. It went a lot smoother than I imagined it would. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319307#319307 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0125_128.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0141_186.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Nose wheel pant brackets
Date: Nov 14, 2010
I fly off of grass almost exclusively. I have repaired the spacers in my main gear last year, now both the left and right brackets in my nose gear are cracked. I think that they need to be made of a heavier material or being a fiberglass guy, maybe from composite. Still working out a final solution. Any ideas for PN U1013C Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Nose wheel pant brackets
I'll soon be flying off grass too. I'll be very interested in alternatives. On 11/14/2010 7:33 AM, gary wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "gary" > > I fly off of grass almost exclusively. I have repaired the spacers in my > main gear last year, now both the left and right brackets in my nose gear > are cracked. I think that they need to be made of a heavier material or > being a fiberglass guy, maybe from composite. > > Still working out a final solution. Any ideas for PN U1013C > > Gary > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: tires
Date: Nov 14, 2010
Are people running 600-6 or 15/600-6 on the 10? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: tires
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2010
15/600-6 is the standard. On Nov 14, 2010, at 12:15 PM, "DLM" wrote: > Are people running 600-6 or 15/600-6 on the 10? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2010
Subject: Re: tires
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I believe someone posted earlier that they were making a wheel pant for the 6:00X6. Not sure why Van's spec'd the wider/lower profile tire. Either one is fine for the gross wt. The 6:00X6 is cheaper and more available, and probably more tolerant of the spreading of the gear on touchdown. Without knowing Van's reason for picking what they did, picking other than the factory specified tire is a crap shoot. Anyone can experiment. We just don't know if it makes a difference or not. On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 11:58 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > 15/600-6 is the standard. > > > On Nov 14, 2010, at 12:15 PM, "DLM" wrote: > > Are people running 600-6 or 15/600-6 on the 10? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Gipson <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: tires
Date: Nov 14, 2010
I replaced the 6.00-15 tires with the 6.00 and the higher profile 6.00 made a noticeable change in looks. Not good. I changed them out back to the 6 .00-15. Didn't fly or taxi with the 6.00 tires. Bill Gipson > Date: Sun=2C 14 Nov 2010 15:57:12 -0700 > Subject: Re: RV10-List: tires > From: apilot2(at)gmail.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I believe someone posted earlier that they were making a wheel pant > for the 6:00X6. Not sure why Van's spec'd the wider/lower profile > tire. Either one is fine for the gross wt. The 6:00X6 is cheaper and > more available=2C and probably more tolerant of the spreading of the > gear on touchdown. Without knowing Van's reason for picking what they > did=2C picking other than the factory specified tire is a crap shoot. > Anyone can experiment. We just don't know if it makes a difference or > not. > > On Sun=2C Nov 14=2C 2010 at 11:58 AM=2C Tim Olson wrote: > > 15/600-6 is the standard. > > > > > > > > On Nov 14=2C 2010=2C at 12:15 PM=2C "DLM" wrote: > > > > Are people running 600-6 or 15/600-6 on the 10? > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: painting plastic
Date: Nov 14, 2010
What's the best paint for interior plastic? It obviously needs to be very flexible and something I can color match. Has anyone ever heard of spraying MEK lightly on the plastic prior to painting? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: painting plastic
There is a product line by SEM available at auto paint shops for royalite and other ABS type plastics in numerous colors, with prep spray treatments. Very commonly used in certified planes to restore the royalite panels. On 11/14/2010 8:02 PM, Wayne Williams wrote: > > Whats the best paint for interior plastic? It obviously needs to be > very flexible and something I can color match. Has anyone ever heard > of spraying MEK lightly on the plastic prior to painting? > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: painting plastic
Date: Nov 14, 2010
RV10-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 11/13/10I'm using the Stewarts system paint line for my exterior, they have a 1 part polyurethane for interior. Easy to use and although I have not used this product, their other products have worked well for me so I see no reason why it would not be a good alternative for you. http://www.stewartsystems.aero/catalog/29935d6e-87a1-4885-a575-30b2604fd1 71.aspx Pascal From: Wayne Williams Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 7:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: painting plastic What's the best paint for interior plastic? It obviously needs to be very flexible and something I can color match. Has anyone ever heard of spraying MEK lightly on the plastic prior to painting? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: painting plastic
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2010
Wayne, I'm painting my interior with JetFlex from Sherwin Williams. They have a primer that's made exactly for plastics. More info here: http://www2.sherwin-williams.com/aerospace/jflex.asp Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319380#319380 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2010
Subject: Re: Moved the plane!
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Sounds like we had similar weekends. Ours also went smoother than we anticipated. Did a quick writeup here: http://kochman.net/N819K/?p=736 -Rob On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 9:30 PM, Strasnuts wrote: > > The weather was good enough to move the plane today. It is at Scott's > hangar safe and sound. It went a lot smoother than I imagined it would. > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319307#319307 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0125_128.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0141_186.jpg > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Fund Raiser & Some Very Nice Comments...
Dear Listers, I've been getting some really nice comments from Listers along with their List Support Contributions. I've shared some of them below. Please read them over and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade and operation of these services. There are lots of sweet gifts available, so browse the extensive selection and pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution. Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ------------------------------------------------------- You are providing a great service. Thanks so very much. David L Keep up the good work! A great website - wish I'd found it earlier! Bob S Thanks for providing a site for information. Jim S Thanks again for providing a great service to our community! Alex M Thanks and keep up the good work! Robert B. Great forum! David S Thanks for providing the Kolb List for the last 12 years. John H Long time lurker, it's a great resource...many thanks. Ian C Your work and effort are greatly appreciated. Nicolas L Thank you very much for keeping the list going! Svein J Thank you for your support to the community. Valin T I am a long time subscriber and a slow builder because of work and two moves, but still enjoy the process and your list. CL M Thanks for providing this service. It can't be beat! Thomas W I'm no longer a builder or flier but I like to keep in touch with the List - which is the best organised list I've seen on the Internet. Gerry C Matt, you are doing a GREAT service to the community of KOLB Builders and Flyers. John B I've been flying for almost two years and still find these Lists as a great resource for information.....now I get to answer a question once-in-a-while too. Ralph C Thanks for this great service. Dale E I couldn't keep on building without the support I get from this List. Thomas S This is a great service to all of us. Michael W I am no longer actively building, but I really like to keep up with what's going on, and I especially like to follow Bob Nuckolls - and your RV-8. Terrence W I really appreciate your work and consider the lists to be a great value. Christopher R Thanks Matt for a great resource! Geoff T Many thanks for providing this service. I love it. William V One of the best Internet Deals going... Owen B Thanks for the great site. Danny S A valuable resource. George A Thanks for running a great list. Ted P ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Rivet Set Recommendation?
What have others used for a rivet set to get the rivets on the fuse skins next to the spar carry through in the attached pic? I don't have a swivel flush set, but maybe that would work? Thanks, -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rivet Set Recommendation?
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
I believe I'd back-shoot those... neal =============== What have others used for a rivet set to get the rivets on the fuse skins next to the spar carry through in the attached pic? I don't have a swivel flush set, but maybe that would work? Thanks, -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Rivet Set Recommendation?
The shop side of these are inside the side channel, so they can't be back shot. The forward ones can, but not the aft side. On 11/15/10 10:44 AM, George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ wrote: > I believe I'd back-shoot those... > > neal > > =============== > What have others used for a rivet set to get the rivets on the fuse skins > next to the spar carry through in the attached pic? I don't have a swivel > flush set, but maybe that would work? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TommyLewis(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 2010
Subject: rudder stop
Over the weekend I found that the RV10 rudder stop on the right side has broken, the rivets had been sheared. The rudder stop was laying in the bottom of the rudder. When this has happened to others, have you simply riveted it back on, or replaced rivets with #8 or #6 bolts, or is there an after market replacement??? Thanks, Tom Lewis Granbury, Tx RV10 N143EB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: Rivet Set Recommendation?
I used http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,3673.html The face is curved enough to give you room for the rivet gun and still keep it flat on the rivet. PJ Seipel RV-10 #40032 On 11/15/2010 10:04 AM, Sean Stephens wrote: > What have others used for a rivet set to get the rivets on the fuse > skins next to the spar carry through in the attached pic? I don't have a > swivel flush set, but maybe that would work? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
Subject: Re: rudder stop
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Tom, You can use screws to hold the stops in position. They'll hold up much better in shear. Van's even made that change on their demo planes. If you look closely you'll see they've changed them all to screws. Phil On Mon, Nov 15, 2010 at 1:02 PM, wrote: > Over the weekend I found that the RV10 rudder stop on the right side has > broken, the rivets had been sheared. The rudder stop was laying in the > bottom of the rudder. When this has happened to others, have you simply > riveted it back on, or replaced rivets with #8 or #6 bolts, or is there an > after market replacement??? > > Thanks, > Tom Lewis > Granbury, Tx > RV10 N143EB > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: rudder stop
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 15, 2010
I've found the stock rudder stop to be just about useless. I had to leave my RV10 outside overnight and the next day the wind sheared the stops. It didn 't take but about 30 min. Anyway, there's a guy on Van's Airforce website th at makes a plastic stop that you bolt to the metal hinge bracket that works m uch better. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 15, 2010, at 1:02 PM, TommyLewis(at)aol.com wrote: > Over the weekend I found that the RV10 rudder stop on the right side has b roken, the rivets had been sheared. The rudder stop was laying in the botto m of the rudder. When this has happened to others, have you simply riveted i t back on, or replaced rivets with #8 or #6 bolts, or is there an after mark et replacement??? > > Thanks, > Tom Lewis > Granbury, Tx > RV10 N143EB > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: rudder stop
Date: Nov 15, 2010
I've looked at the plastic stop and decided not to install it. I just redrill the parts #28 and put in a #6 screw with the nut between the brackets. I noticed on N220RV that Van's had done the same thing when I visited the factory. I'm a little surprised that they didn't modify the manuals to do it that way, but I think that's a sufficient fix for the rivets. As Tim said, the best solution is to get a gust lock that will hold the rudder. The stops are mainly there to have a good hard point to keep the rudder from over-controlling and hitting the elevator and to verify that there is no obstruction in the rudder pedals or cables to get full travel. Letting the rudder hit the stops in the wind is bad news. Whether the stops sheer or not, the rudder can be damaged if this is allowed to happen. I've seen a rudder that had to be completely replaced because it was banging up against the stops and the trailing edge was badly distorted because of a severe impact against the stop in high wind. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Nov 15, 2010, at 2:02 PM, TommyLewis(at)aol.com wrote: > Over the weekend I found that the RV10 rudder stop on the right side has broken, the rivets had been sheared. The rudder stop was laying in the bottom of the rudder. When this has happened to others, have you simply riveted it back on, or replaced rivets with #8 or #6 bolts, or is there an after market replacement??? > > Thanks, > Tom Lewis > Granbury, Tx > RV10 N143EB > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Wheel pant spacer replacements
Date: Nov 15, 2010
Marvelous design=2C like materials=2C drastically increased surface area. W onderful...Thank you! John G. > Subject: RV10-List: Wheel pant spacer replacements > From: sean(at)braunandco.com > Date: Sat=2C 13 Nov 2010 21:20:29 -0800 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I decided to make them for me after Tim's write-up. It was good timing si nce I could easily switch mine out and not wait until they wear out. I put them on PlaneAround.com if anyone is interested in this model. They are one piece. You have to take the axle bolt out to install them but it took me a bout ten minutes to switch them out. > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319306#319306 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Rivet Set Recommendation?
Thanks for the link. For some reason the Yard Store slipped my mind. I'm wondering if I'd get additional use out of a flush "C" set which also seems like it would do the job. http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,3664.html -Sean #40303 On 11/15/10 1:06 PM, PJ Seipel wrote: > I used http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,3673.html > > The face is curved enough to give you room for the rivet gun and still > keep it flat on the rivet. > > PJ Seipel > RV-10 #40032 > > On 11/15/2010 10:04 AM, Sean Stephens wrote: >> What have others used for a rivet set to get the rivets on the fuse >> skins next to the spar carry through in the attached pic? I don't have a >> swivel flush set, but maybe that would work? >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: rudder stop
I have had this happen to me as well. My first rudder lock was not very robust and high winds at Las Vegas caused it to slip out of the pedals which then caused my rudder to shear the stops and damage the rudder. I was able to repair and replace the stops with #6 screws. I never walk away from my plane without putting the rudder lock in even if I am just running to the bathroom. One blast from a taxiing plane will damage that rudder. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ________________________________ From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> Sent: Mon, November 15, 2010 12:55:38 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder stop I've looked at the plastic stop and decided not to install it. I just redrill the parts #28 and put in a #6 screw with the nut between the brackets. I noticed on N220RV that Van's had done the same thing when I visited the factory. I'm a little surprised that they didn't modify the manuals to do it that way, but I think that's a sufficient fix for the rivets. As Tim said, the best solution is to get a gust lock that will hold the rudder. The stops are mainly there to have a good hard point to keep the rudder from over-controlling and hitting the elevator and to verify that there is no obstruction in the rudder pedals or cables to get full travel. Letting the rudder hit the stops in the wind is bad news. Whether the stops sheer or not, the rudder can be damaged if this is allowed to happen. I've seen a rudder that had to be completely replaced because it was banging up against the stops and the trailing edge was badly distorted because of a severe impact against the stop in high wind. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Nov 15, 2010, at 2:02 PM, TommyLewis(at)aol.com wrote: Over the weekend I found that the RV10 rudder stop on the right side has broken, the rivets had been sheared. The rudder stop was laying in the bottom of the rudder. When this has happened to others, have you simply riveted it back on, or replaced rivets with #8 or #6 bolts, or is there an after market replacement??? > >Thanks, >Tom Lewis >Granbury, Tx >RV10 N143EB > > > >href="http://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com >href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com >href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com >href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contributionhref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: rudder stop
Date: Nov 15, 2010
One solution to the floppy rudder is to install rudder return springs. I do not have near the flopping as my non spring friends. It is cheap, easy and keeps the cables nice and snug. Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 6:08 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder stop I have had this happen to me as well. My first rudder lock was not very robust and high winds at Las Vegas caused it to slip out of the pedals which then caused my rudder to shear the stops and damage the rudder. I was able to repair and replace the stops with #6 screws. I never walk away from my plane without putting the rudder lock in even if I am just running to the bathroom. One blast from a taxiing plane will damage that rudder. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com _____ From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> Sent: Mon, November 15, 2010 12:55:38 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder stop I've looked at the plastic stop and decided not to install it. I just redrill the parts #28 and put in a #6 screw with the nut between the brackets. I noticed on N220RV that Van's had done the same thing when I visited the factory. I'm a little surprised that they didn't modify the manuals to do it that way, but I think that's a sufficient fix for the rivets. As Tim said, the best solution is to get a gust lock that will hold the rudder. The stops are mainly there to have a good hard point to keep the rudder from over-controlling and hitting the elevator and to verify that there is no obstruction in the rudder pedals or cables to get full travel. Letting the rudder hit the stops in the wind is bad news. Whether the stops sheer or not, the rudder can be damaged if this is allowed to happen. I've seen a rudder that had to be completely replaced because it was banging up against the stops and the trailing edge was badly distorted because of a severe impact against the stop in high wind. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Nov 15, 2010, at 2:02 PM, TommyLewis(at)aol.com wrote: Over the weekend I found that the RV10 rudder stop on the right side has broken, the rivets had been sheared. The rudder stop was laying in the bottom of the rudder. When this has happened to others, have you simply riveted it back on, or replaced rivets with #8 or #6 bolts, or is there an after market replacement??? Thanks, Tom Lewis Granbury, Tx RV10 N143EB href="http://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com href=" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
Subject: Keep ethanol-free gas widely available
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
I'm not sure if this is going to help, but we can at least try. Please look at this website, and if you think it is worthwhile trying to sign a petition saving ethanol free fuel, please sign and pass along to others that you feel might be interested. http://www.thepetitionsite.com/1/keep-pure-gas/ Thanks, -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Please use Netiquette Guidelines http://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855 Kindly TRIM your email replies and post AFTER the relevant text ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivet Set Recommendation?
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Nov 15, 2010
I worried about those rivets and put them off for a while, as well as the rivets around the rear spar attach. Turned out though that my Avery swivel flush set worked fine. I pushed the rubber guard up against the spar, and there was just enough room to get good meat on the rivet, if that makes sense. -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319534#319534 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fw: Pics from Monument Valley Trip
Date: Nov 15, 2010
A friend flew my 10 to Monument Valley. ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Hodgdon Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 11:19 AM Subject: Pics from Monument Valley Trip Great trip yesterday to Monument Valley Airport! The identifier for the private Monument Valley Airport run by Gouldings Lodge, is UT25 or 71V on Airnav.com, but neither appears in the Chelton's database. I knew from a previous flight that the airport was just about due north from Kayenta (0V7) so I flew a bit east of that and then along the valley till the airport and two hotels were in sight. As advertised, there is really no option for a late go-around at this airport so I had the airspeed and approach nailed *very* early. One of my better landings. Had lunch and departed for a quick tour around Monument Valley. Refueled in Winslow, then a quick turn around the meteor crater and back to Falcon. The 10 flew great, 151/155ktas @ 9,500' burning 9.5gph. Can't ask for much more than that! Here are a couple of links to the airport information. http://www.swaviator.com/html/issueAS99/monument.html http://www.gouldings.com/more/airport-information/ http://gouldings.com/new/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Gouldings_Airport_Rul es.pdf Note that the information on the SWAviator website article is over *11 years old* and several things are incorrect, most notably the description of the runway being partially paved and only 4,000x50'. It's actually fully paved and 4000x75'. It was about a 5 minute walk from the plane to the restaurant, and the bacon cheeseburger I had was pretty good! The Gouldings Lodge website has the most current information. They want commercial traffic to park on the paved ramp area and GA to park on the gravel but I wasn't going to taxi over gravel so I just parked in the back of the ramp area. Plenty of room for a C208 and C206 to park just before we departed. Thanks Dave! Tom ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: rudder stop
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Nov 15, 2010
Does anyone have a bomb-proof rudder lock that they are really happy with? Jim Berry N15JB Phase 1 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319535#319535 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: Pics from Monument Valley Trip
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: rudder stop
Date: Nov 15, 2010
I have two 1x1x.062 angles each 30" with a foam strip RTVed to a side. a center hole for an AN4 bolt is centered on each angle. The threaded shaft that connects the two angles passes between the rudder and the fuselage. It is held on with a lock nut on one end and a wingnut on the other. weighs about a pound and is carried in the tiedown bag. the wind would probably break the entire tail cone off before breaking the rudder lock. Not dainty or elegant but sturdy and sure. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 8:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: rudder stop > > Does anyone have a bomb-proof rudder lock that they are really happy with? > > Jim Berry > N15JB > Phase 1 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319535#319535 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: rudder stop
Date: Nov 15, 2010
This one is cheap and effective. Easy to install and store away. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 8:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: rudder stop Does anyone have a bomb-proof rudder lock that they are really happy with? Jim Berry N15JB Phase 1 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319535#319535 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2010
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: rudder stop
Here is a link to purchase the internal rudder stop. I am pleased with the quality and price and installed mine when I was building the rudder. http://stocktoneaa.org/Rudder%20Stop.html David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: TommyLewis(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 2:02:46 PM Subject: RV10-List: rudder stop Over the weekend I found that the RV10 rudder stop on the right side has broken, the rivets had been sheared. The rudder stop was laying in the bottom of the rudder. When this has happened to others, have you simply riveted it back on, or replaced rivets with #8 or #6 bolts, or is there an after market replacement??? Thanks, Tom Lewis Granbury, Tx RV10 N143EB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: rudder stop
Date: Nov 16, 2010
OK, David, I give up ... is there a link to Merlin Enterprises so I can check this out, rather than the "buy it now"? Thanks, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:30 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder stop Here is a link to purchase the internal rudder stop. I am pleased with the quality and price and installed mine when I was building the rudder. http://stocktoneaa.org/Rudder%20Stop.html David Clifford ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2010
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: rudder stop
No,,,as far as I know he does not have a website. I believe this is the onl y part he manufactures and he posts on the Vans RV forum and is one of its moderators. He just posted today that he has another batch ready for orders and I figured someone on this list might be interested since the subject w as recent. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=64982 David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 12:11:42 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder stop =EF=BB OK, David, I give up ... is there a link to Merlin Enterprises so I can che ck this out, rather than the "buy it now"? Thanks, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:30 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder stop Here is a link to purchase the internal rudder stop. I am pleased with the quality and price and installed mine when I was building the rudder. http://stocktoneaa.org/Rudder%20Stop.html David Clifford ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Subject: Re: rudder stop
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Do you have a picture of how you installed yours? It certainly is sized differently than the Van's stop. On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 10:59 AM, wrote: > No,,,as far as I know he does not have a website. I believe this is the > only part he manufactures and he posts on the Vans RV forum and is one of > its moderators. He just posted today that he has another batch ready for > orders and I figured someone on this list might be interested since the > subject was recent. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=64982 > > David Clifford > > RV-10 Builder > 65% Done-95% To Go > N849RV (reserved) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 12:11:42 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder stop > > > OK, David, I give up ... is there a link to Merlin Enterprises so I can > check this out, rather than the "buy it now"? > > Thanks, - Lew > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:30 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder stop > Here is a link to purchase the internal rudder stop. I am pleased with the > quality and price and installed mine when I was building the rudder. > http://stocktoneaa.org/Rudder%20Stop.html > > David Clifford > > > _blank">www.aeroelectric.com > " target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com > ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Subject: Re: rudder stop
I been using this one for a while (scroll down to the tow bar pictures): http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300884#300884 It's nice to be able to put the gust lock in while standing outside on the ground. Plus no other gizmos to haul around. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Mon, Nov 15, 2010 at 7:47 PM, Jim Berry wrote: > > Does anyone have a bomb-proof rudder lock that they are really happy with? > > Jim Berry > N15JB > Phase 1 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319535#319535 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: rudder stop
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Nov 16, 2010
That's very similar to my mod. I just use a tube that will fit in a hole on the pedals. I also usually put the stick through the hole in the towbar then use the seatbelt on the other side to hold it back, which locks the elevator & ailerons. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone On Nov 16, 2010, at 3:53 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > I been using this one for a while (scroll down to the tow bar pictures): > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300884#300884 > > It's nice to be able to put the gust lock in while standing outside on > the ground. Plus no other gizmos to haul around. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > > On Mon, Nov 15, 2010 at 7:47 PM, Jim Berry wrote: >> >> Does anyone have a bomb-proof rudder lock that they are really happy with? >> >> Jim Berry >> N15JB >> Phase 1 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319535#319535 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: P35-8 Question
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Got a quick question about the screws at the from of the seat floor. On page 35-8 it says to use AN509 screws (flush head) along the front edge of the seat floor and AN515 screws along the aft edge. I did not countersink those holes and I can't find anything in sections 28 or 29 that say to. Did I miss something? Did any of you guys do it, or did you just use round head AN515s? I don't see that it would be a problem. John -------- #40572 Painted but still in pieces N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319633#319633 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: P35-8 Question
Date: Nov 16, 2010
you'll find, starting around Sect 29 that there are less and less details as the sections progress. There is a lot that I scratched my head and asked myself if I missed a step, in the end do whatever you want. The flush head can be countersunk for the aft edge but I don't recall it was an issue either way since it is all covered anyway with a form fitted rug. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 1:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: P35-8 Question > > Got a quick question about the screws at the from of the seat floor. On > page 35-8 it says to use AN509 screws (flush head) along the front edge of > the seat floor and AN515 screws along the aft edge. I did not countersink > those holes and I can't find anything in sections 28 or 29 that say to. > Did I miss something? Did any of you guys do it, or did you just use > round head AN515s? I don't see that it would be a problem. > John > > -------- > #40572 Painted but still in pieces > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319633#319633 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Subject: Re: rudder stop
>>use the seatbelt on the other side to hold it back<< Yep, that's basically what I did before the bungee. Now I can lock all the controls in one motion. Probably not a big deal but it does seem easier now and that makes it a little more likely that I'll actually use it. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 1:17 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > That's very similar to my mod. I just use a tube that will fit in a hole on the pedals. I also usually put the stick through the hole in the towbar then use the seatbelt on the other side to hold it back, which locks the elevator & ailerons. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 16, 2010, at 3:53 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > >> >> I been using this one for a while (scroll down to the tow bar pictures): >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300884#300884 >> >> It's nice to be able to put the gust lock in while standing outside on >> the ground. Plus no other gizmos to haul around. >> >> Dave Saylor >> AirCrafters >> 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 95076 >> 831-722-9141 Shop >> 831-750-0284 Cell >> >> >> >> On Mon, Nov 15, 2010 at 7:47 PM, Jim Berry wrote: >>> >>> Does anyone have a bomb-proof rudder lock that they are really happy with? >>> >>> Jim Berry >>> N15JB >>> Phase 1 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319535#319535 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Six Year Anniversary
Date: Nov 16, 2010
On November 16, 2004, at 10:07 AM I cracked open my empennage crate and started down the road to building my RV-10. Now, some 3227 hours of absolute pleasure later, I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to make it to the finish line. I heard the warning, more than once, that life changes over the years of the build. Issues of health, marriage and money, among so many other things can knock you off course. I lost three months of build time during the summer of 2006 to the tennis elbow (in both elbows) I earned while using my pneumatic rivet squeezer for eight consecutive hours. Last year I took a spill on my bike that put me in the ER for an afternoon and kept me out of the shop for the better part of two months. And now it's all about money. Business for me, as I am sure for many of you, has fallen off a cliff. Though things have been a bit more positive this month, I still have to start thinking about my options with the plane. With all that having been said, I pose the following questions to the group: I currently have the engine and prop new and "in the box." If I have to sell the project, is it best to leave them that way and sell them separate from the nearly complete plane or to go ahead and mount them? Another option is to take on a partner. For those that have gone down that road, do you have any words of wisdom? The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane "on the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really want. What do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day VFR operations? Thank you all for you help... I haven't given up on finishing yet, but need to know what path to take if it comes to that. Jeff Carpenter 40304 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
From: bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
If Day VFR is one of your options, do it! You will upgrade later when the timing is more appropriate. I would avoid a partner, although I'm part of a club of 5 in a C172. The options you presented have 2 extremes: keep the plane and finish it without all the bells and whistles you heard in your dreams, or, sell the whole project. If you have to get the cash somehow, then finishing it doesn't seem to be a viable option. And, the finished, signed off aircraft, even if Day VFR is worth more than the uncompleted project. Forge ahead! Bruce Breckenridge 40018 On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 4:57 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > On November 16, 2004, at 10:07 AM I cracked open my empennage crate and > started down the road to building my RV-10. Now, some 3227 hours of > absolute pleasure later, I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to make it to > the finish line. I heard the warning, more than once, that life changes > over the years of the build. Issues of health, marriage and money, among > so many other things can knock you off course. > > I lost three months of build time during the summer of 2006 to the tennis > elbow (in both elbows) I earned while using my pneumatic rivet squeezer for > eight consecutive hours. Last year I took a spill on my bike that put me in > the ER for an afternoon and kept me out of the shop for the better part of > two months. And now it's all about money. Business for me, as I am sure > for many of you, has fallen off a cliff. Though things have been a bit more > positive this month, I still have to start thinking about my options with > the plane. > > With all that having been said, I pose the following questions to the > group: > > I currently have the engine and prop new and "in the box." If I have to > sell the project, is it best to leave them that way and sell them separate > from the nearly complete plane or to go ahead and mount them? > > Another option is to take on a partner. For those that have gone down that > road, do you have any words of wisdom? > > The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane "on > the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really want. What > do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day VFR operations? > > Thank you all for you help... I haven't given up on finishing yet, but need > to know what path to take if it comes to that. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
Sorry to hear of your dilemma. I've never been in your shoes, but I'll offer some observations below. On 11/16/2010 7:57 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > On November 16, 2004, at 10:07 AM I cracked open my empennage crate > and started down the road to building my RV-10. Now, some 3227 hours > of absolute pleasure later, I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to make > it to the finish line. I heard the warning, more than once, that life > changes over the years of the build. Issues of health, marriage and > money, among so many other things can knock you off course. > > I lost three months of build time during the summer of 2006 to the > tennis elbow (in both elbows) I earned while using my pneumatic rivet > squeezer for eight consecutive hours. Last year I took a spill on my > bike that put me in the ER for an afternoon and kept me out of the > shop for the better part of two months. And now it's all about > money. Business for me, as I am sure for many of you, has fallen off > a cliff. Though things have been a bit more positive this month, I > still have to start thinking about my options with the plane. > > With all that having been said, I pose the following questions to the > group: > > I currently have the engine and prop new and "in the box." If I have > to sell the project, is it best to leave them that way and sell them > separate from the nearly complete plane or to go ahead and mount them? I doubt that it'll make any difference if you mount the engine .... other than you've saved the buyer some labor. Leaving the engine 'in the box' makes it 'less aged' Vs. hanging out in the air. > > Another option is to take on a partner. For those that have gone down > that road, do you have any words of wisdom? I've only had partners in one of my aviation endeavors, a Pitts Special S1-E. I ended up buying both their shares at a discount when the partnership broke down. However, I know of one project with partners that's flying after 13 years building together and an RV-10 presently under construction by partners. My only words of wisdom would be to document what happens to the project should the partnership dissolve .... in other words what would the value of the share, and who would end up with first right of refusal. > > The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane > "on the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really > want. What do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day > VFR operations? Steam gauges (altimeter, airspeed, compass, fuel and oil pressure and oil temp) and a radio. You might look at http://www.mglavionics.co.za/ for a relatively low cost glass panel to replace the steam gauges. They also have electronic versions of the steam gauges. > Thank you all for you help... I haven't given up on finishing yet, but > need to know what path to take if it comes to that. I've noticed that when people sell their project unfinished ..... for whatever reason .... they pretty much drop out of aviation all together .... and never go back. The investment you have in aviation also includes what you spent getting and keeping your license ..... but is offset somewhat by the enjoyment you've had along the way. If I was in your shoes, I'd try and hang on to complete the project solo. Lot less possibilities of contention down the road. Also, what are you going to do with all that free time on your hands ..... but spend money or become a couch potato??? Linn > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2010
From: <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Fuel Filter
About to start my first annual and want to change the fuel filter from the single unit to two under the seats like others have done. Are folks just using a second ES Airflow filter or something smaller? Would appreciate part numbers if you have them. Jay Rowe #40301 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Subject: Six Year Anniversary
Jeff, I am sorry to hear of your turn in fortune. Far too many deserving people are left w/o a chair when the music stops economically. Placing my comments in the =93observation=94 column rather than the =93recommendation=94 column; I would *consider* taking on a partner or two if need be. The idea of a bare bones build may not meet your ultimate flying requirement and will in my opinion damage maximum resale. Additionally the cost of =93upgrading=94 can be substantial when considering down time and replacement parts which is not being efficient with limited cash. Furthermore a bare bones build still has you with 100% of the insurance, 100% of the Phase 1 fly off costs, 100% of the storage, 100% of=85well 100% . Obviously there are down sides to a partnership but it can also be a great thing for those on a limited budget. Even those that use their plane a lot have them sitting for long periods of time. As the saying goes even on the best weekend of the year 95% of all boats never leave the marina. Not so much with a new plane that all the partners that want to fly but that often settles down to a reasonable pace. There is something actually nice and reassuring about not having SOLE financial responsibility for an airplane. This option may even put cash in your pocket after the build. I know technically the plane is no longer yours completely but if you sell the kit it won=92t be yours at all. The top job of anyone deciding to go this route is to select their partner(s) properly. The right partner(s) are guaranteed to be an asset (picture: Tim Olson), the wrong partners are guaranteed to be a nightmare (picture: barefoot bandit). Don=92t settle till you find a partner that fit s the partnership needs. Not just one with a fat checkbook. Owning & flying a n RV-10 can be freakishly inexpensive for its utility when you cut the base costs to a third. After you receive and review all the feedback it is solely up t o you and your family having the most complete understanding of your finances and you goals to chart your future. Wishing you a Happy 7th Anniversary, Robin *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *bruce breckenridge *Sent:* Tuesday, November 16, 2010 5:22 PM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Six Year Anniversary If Day VFR is one of your options, do it! You will upgrade later when the timing is more appropriate. I would avoid a partner, although I'm part of a club of 5 in a C172. The options you presented have 2 extremes: keep the plane and finish it without all the bells and whistles you heard in your dreams, or, sell the whole project. If you have to get the cash somehow, then finishing it doesn't seem to be a viable option. And, the finished, signed off aircraft, even if Day VFR is worth more than the uncompleted project. Forge ahead! Bruce Breckenridge 40018 On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 4:57 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: On November 16, 2004, at 10:07 AM I cracked open my empennage crate and started down the road to building my RV-10. Now, some 3227 hours of absolute pleasure later, I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to make it to the finish line. I heard the warning, more than once, that life changes over the years of the build. Issues of health, marriage and money, among so many other things can knock you off course. I lost three months of build time during the summer of 2006 to the tennis elbow (in both elbows) I earned while using my pneumatic rivet squeezer for eight consecutive hours. Last year I took a spill on my bike that put me i n the ER for an afternoon and kept me out of the shop for the better part of two months. And now it's all about money. Business for me, as I am sure for many of you, has fallen off a cliff. Though things have been a bit mor e positive this month, I still have to start thinking about my options with the plane. With all that having been said, I pose the following questions to the group : I currently have the engine and prop new and "in the box." If I have to sell the project, is it best to leave them that way and sell them separate from the nearly complete plane or to go ahead and mount them? Another option is to take on a partner. For those that have gone down that road, do you have any words of wisdom? The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane "on the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really want. What do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day VFR operations? Thank you all for you help... I haven't given up on finishing yet, but need to know what path to take if it comes to that. Jeff Carpent=================== he Contribution link below to find out more about * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com s.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution -Matt Dralle, Li - The RV10-List Email Foru m - : 0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List = --> h <http://forums.matronics.com/> * <http://forums.matronics.com/>* * <http://forums.matronics.com/>* * <http://forums.matronics.com/>* <http://forums.matronics.com/>* <http://forums.matronics.com/>* <http://forums.matronics.com/>* <http://forums.matronics.com/>* <http://forums.matronics.com/>* <http://forums.matronics.com/>* om* ===========* ===========* ===========* ------------------------------ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Six Year Anniversary
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Jeff, Very sorry to hear of your situation, but I'm afraid I can sympathize. As others have mentioned a partnership is a tricky thing, I suspect the key is to know your partner(s) well and make sure you are all on the same page as far as expectations on scheduling, maintenance and upgrades. I couldn't agree more that a VFR only bird is better than nothing. Most of us fly these for fun and while having the ability to go IFR is certainly convenient, I'd much rather fly VFR anyway. As for the minimums, I've built 4 airplanes, 3 were VFR and the -10 is full IFR. Many will suggest you should have some IFR capability (Artificial horizon, etc) "just in case". I don't subscribe to that at all, I am very capable of not flying into a cloud if I'm not supposed to. You just have to be aware and conservative. The FARs spell out what's needed and it isn't much beyond a compass, altitude and airspeed and basic engine instruments. Flying can be an absolute joy with the minimum and upgrading down the road is quite simple with all the glass cockpit options. If possible this is the route I'd go as you have invested so much already. As for what to do if you decide to part with it, I've done this twice. I had a Q-2 that just wouldn't sell so I sold the engine which was a sure thing and eventually sold the airplane but that was a unique animal. I have a Skybolt project that has sat idle for 2 years and money is a snag right now. I looked at several options and tried selling part of the project unsuccessfully before deciding to sell the engine. As it turns out that was the greatest pot of money I could have gained and also has the least emotional value. Additionally, an engine becomes less popular the longer it sits which is another reason to set it free for the short term and when business picks back up buy another one. Hopefully you will also lose the least compared to what you paid for it and you don't have any time invested. Of course this is only valid if you think you'd like to keep working on the -10 for future use. As for me, it worked out great to get an infusion of cash but also get to keep the heart of the project. Best of luck, Marcus 40286 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 7:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Six Year Anniversary On November 16, 2004, at 10:07 AM I cracked open my empennage crate and started down the road to building my RV-10. Now, some 3227 hours of absolute pleasure later, I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to make it to the finish line. I heard the warning, more than once, that life changes over the years of the build. Issues of health, marriage and money, among so many other things can knock you off course. I lost three months of build time during the summer of 2006 to the tennis elbow (in both elbows) I earned while using my pneumatic rivet squeezer for eight consecutive hours. Last year I took a spill on my bike that put me in the ER for an afternoon and kept me out of the shop for the better part of two months. And now it's all about money. Business for me, as I am sure for many of you, has fallen off a cliff. Though things have been a bit more positive this month, I still have to start thinking about my options with the plane. With all that having been said, I pose the following questions to the group: I currently have the engine and prop new and "in the box." If I have to sell the project, is it best to leave them that way and sell them separate from the nearly complete plane or to go ahead and mount them? Another option is to take on a partner. For those that have gone down that road, do you have any words of wisdom? The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane "on the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really want. What do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day VFR operations? Thank you all for you help... I haven't given up on finishing yet, but need to know what path to take if it comes to that. Jeff Carpenter 40304 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Nov 16, 2010
I have done this in one installation and used the ES Airflow filter from Airflow Performance on both sides. I really like the quality and serviceability of this filter. Note, however, that to remove and clean the filter, the fuel tank will have to be emptied completely because there will not be a fuel selector valve between the tank and the filter to provide a fuel shutoff. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Nov 16, 2010, at 8:46 PM, wrote: > > About to start my first annual and want to change the fuel filter from the single unit to two under the seats like others have done. Are folks just using a second ES Airflow filter or something smaller? Would appreciate part numbers if you have them. Jay Rowe #40301 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
On 11/16/2010 7:57 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane > "on the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really > want. What do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day > VFR operations? Hi Jeff, For what it is worth, that is what I am doing with my Sportsman project. Sounds like I am in a similar situation - I have the airframe and the engine, but I do not yet have any of the avionics or interior items. I'll likely be flying it without paint, and VFR until such a time as I can afford to improve it. I'm not to the panel yet (and won't be for several months at least), so I am not positive what my minimum will be, but I'm envisioning a single screen GRT EFIS system and a single radio. Eventually would like to go to a dual screen EFIS system, and a Garmin 430W and ADS-B when I can afford it. I'll probably end up painting it before upgrading the panel, though. Best of luck with your project. One option you may consider is to get another builder to help you build it, but not necessarily have them as a partner when the plane is finished. This may help if there are motivation issues. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Please use Netiquette Guidelines http://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855 Kindly TRIM your email replies and post AFTER the relevant text ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Jeff; Still remember that day I brought my wife and daughter over to see your project to determine if I would venture on the RV-10 build. I hate to see someone give up and especially you based on that motivation you gave me over 3 years ago. I know times are tough and I encourage you to go with Option 3. I am going the cheap route and not doing IFR or ADS-B initially but my Dynon will do everything I need to fly anywhere and eventually once I know how much family trips we'll take and how we do it I'll expand later as needed. Also, unless you got someone from the SoCal list to take your hangar, drop the hangar, plenty of people at Chino to share a hangar with when you're ready to park it and that will open up the finances for you a little. I know Don isn't happy with this input but whatever it takes!! Stick with it! I need other RV-10's to fly with in the future and the other -10 in french Valley is storing his for a while.. I can't be the only one flying locally!! that just would not work.. Option 3 unless there is no other option. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 4:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Six Year Anniversary > > On November 16, 2004, at 10:07 AM I cracked open my empennage crate and > started down the road to building my RV-10. Now, some 3227 hours of > absolute pleasure later, I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to make it to > the finish line. I heard the warning, more than once, that life changes > over the years of the build. Issues of health, marriage and money, > among so many other things can knock you off course. > > I lost three months of build time during the summer of 2006 to the tennis > elbow (in both elbows) I earned while using my pneumatic rivet squeezer > for eight consecutive hours. Last year I took a spill on my bike that > put me in the ER for an afternoon and kept me out of the shop for the > better part of two months. And now it's all about money. Business for > me, as I am sure for many of you, has fallen off a cliff. Though things > have been a bit more positive this month, I still have to start thinking > about my options with the plane. > > With all that having been said, I pose the following questions to the > group: > > I currently have the engine and prop new and "in the box." If I have to > sell the project, is it best to leave them that way and sell them > separate from the nearly complete plane or to go ahead and mount them? > > Another option is to take on a partner. For those that have gone down > that road, do you have any words of wisdom? > > The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane > "on the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really want. > What do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day VFR > operations? > > Thank you all for you help... I haven't given up on finishing yet, but > need to know what path to take if it comes to that. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
I won't pretend to be able to comment on the big questions but regarding the "on the cheap" - take it as a challenge and a journey towards what seems to be the original Van's vision. Steam guages, rivet head static ports and aluminum tubing pitots. Go for it! I'd take most bets that most builders are flying day VFR EXCLUSIVELY, which isn't to say it's your desired mission but it's a helluva way to travel. Fast and high, in your homebuilt chariot. Build to fly, then fill in the blanks as fortunes allow. You don't need paint, interior gew gaws or instrument gimcracks. Fill 'em in when you can. With luck, fortunes will change, perhaps in part because you really and need want and need them to. Or not, but that's life. Day VFR is the core of what we do! Bill "doing the full monty but with a healthy respect for keeping one's pants belted and suspended" Watson 40605 July 2006 The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane "on the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really want. What do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day VFR operations? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 16, 2010
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
Hi Jeff, I don't know if you remember but I called you soon after your bike wreck because when you crashed, your phone redialed and left me a long, rather agonizing voicemail! I know it hurt--I was practically there. I took on a partner at about the stage you're at. His buy-in financed a bunch of the big parts which was a huge relief. I haven't looked back. It's been a fantastic arrangement. The greatest thing is that all the goodies, even now, are half price! We rarely have conflicts with scheduling. We use Google Calender to keep track of who's flying when, and we have a tie-breaker system in case there's a glitch. We used a template from AOPA to form the partnership. It had some good ideas we wouldn't have considered. I'll send you a copy of our agreement if you like. Hang in there! I know how you feel with business the way it is. Maybe we should move to Texas... Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 4:57 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > On November 16, 2004, at 10:07 AM I cracked open my empennage crate and > started down the road to building my RV-10. Now, some 3227 hours of > absolute pleasure later, I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to make it to > the finish line. I heard the warning, more than once, that life changes > over the years of the build. Issues of health, marriage and money, among > so many other things can knock you off course. > > I lost three months of build time during the summer of 2006 to the tennis > elbow (in both elbows) I earned while using my pneumatic rivet squeezer for > eight consecutive hours. Last year I took a spill on my bike that put me in > the ER for an afternoon and kept me out of the shop for the better part of > two months. And now it's all about money. Business for me, as I am sure > for many of you, has fallen off a cliff. Though things have been a bit more > positive this month, I still have to start thinking about my options with > the plane. > > With all that having been said, I pose the following questions to the group: > > I currently have the engine and prop new and "in the box." If I have to > sell the project, is it best to leave them that way and sell them separate > from the nearly complete plane or to go ahead and mount them? > > Another option is to take on a partner. For those that have gone down that > road, do you have any words of wisdom? > > The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane "on > the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really want. What > do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day VFR operations? > > Thank you all for you help... I haven't given up on finishing yet, but need > to know what path to take if it comes to that. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's My Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers, Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question. Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for narly 20 years (yeah, I really said *20* years) worth of online archive data available for instant random search and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power this List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki. But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many places on the Internet can you make all those statements these days? It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the best investments you can make in your Sport... List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 17, 2010
Jeff, Sorry to hear about this. I think all of the options you have listed are viable. I want to make some comments about a partnership. I have been in a couple of them and they were mostly positive experiences. My last one was an older Bonanza that I owned with another individual. This was one of the most pleasurable airplane ownership experiences I have had. IF (notice that is a big IF) you can find the right individual, it can be a great way to enjoy ownership at half the cost. I had another experience a few years ago where a four owner partnership was really made unpleasant because of one jerk. If you decide to go this way, find a compatible partner, use the AOPA resources to come up with a good partnership agreement (including close attention to how the partnership can be terminated in the future), and press on. Good Luck David Maib 40559 Flying On Nov 16, 2010, at 7:57 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > On November 16, 2004, at 10:07 AM I cracked open my empennage crate and started down the road to building my RV-10. Now, some 3227 hours of absolute pleasure later, I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to make it to the finish line. I heard the warning, more than once, that life changes over the years of the build. Issues of health, marriage and money, among so many other things can knock you off course. > > I lost three months of build time during the summer of 2006 to the tennis elbow (in both elbows) I earned while using my pneumatic rivet squeezer for eight consecutive hours. Last year I took a spill on my bike that put me in the ER for an afternoon and kept me out of the shop for the better part of two months. And now it's all about money. Business for me, as I am sure for many of you, has fallen off a cliff. Though things have been a bit more positive this month, I still have to start thinking about my options with the plane. > > With all that having been said, I pose the following questions to the group: > > I currently have the engine and prop new and "in the box." If I have to sell the project, is it best to leave them that way and sell them separate from the nearly complete plane or to go ahead and mount them? > > Another option is to take on a partner. For those that have gone down that road, do you have any words of wisdom? > > The third option is to forge ahead and see if I can complete the plane "on the cheap..." meaning Day VFR until I can afford what I really want. What do you consider the minimum required configuration for Day VFR operations? > > Thank you all for you help... I haven't given up on finishing yet, but need to know what path to take if it comes to that. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 17, 2010
I put one of these filters in each wing root and they=99ve worked grea t over 150hrs. Easy to clean and access in the wing root http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=14137~subid= 11799/index.html FUEL FILTER-AN6 A high-performance fuel filter designed to meet the needs of the aerospace i ndustry, providing 15 gpm fuel flow with no pressure drop along with maximum filtration protection. The 10 micron element is made of pleated 304 stainle ss steel and cleans easily with air or soluble rinse for indefinite re-use. T he outer body is CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and clear anodized. Incl udes plated mounting bracket. For use with all fuels. Size: 4-1/4"x 2". Wt: 5 oz. Experimental aircraft only. SKU: FF4006 Our Price: $72.85 Click to enlarge image PRICE AN6 FF4006 $72.85 On Nov 16, 2010, at 7:46 PM, wrote: > > About to start my first annual and want to change the fuel filter from the single unit to two under the seats like others have done. Are folks just u sing a second ES Airflow filter or something smaller? Would appreciate part numbers if you have them. Jay Rowe #40301 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2010
Subject: Re: Egg engine ignition controller
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
On 11/17/2010 10:01 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: > Anybody using Eggenfelner engines, do you know what electronic ignition controller they are using? > SDS on the 6 cylinder models for about the last 4-5 years or so, at least up until the 2009 engine models. Not sure before that or if they are still using them. http://www.sdsefi.com/index.html -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Please use Netiquette Guidelines http://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855 Kindly TRIM your email replies and post AFTER the relevant text ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
Date: Nov 17, 2010
what flow do you get for takeoff? My EFIS shows a 24 gph rate for full power; I am using the Lyc IO540 D4A5. ----- Original Message ----- From: Kevin Belue To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 7:09 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter I put one of these filters in each wing root and they=99ve worked great over 150hrs. Easy to clean and access in the wing root http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=14137~subid =11799/index.html FUEL FILTER-AN6 A high-performance fuel filter designed to meet the needs of the aerospace industry, providing 15 gpm fuel flow with no pressure drop along with maximum filtration protection. The 10 micron element is made of pleated 304 stainless steel and cleans easily with air or soluble rinse for indefinite re-use. The outer body is CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and clear anodized. Includes plated mounting bracket. For use with all fuels. Size: 4-1/4"x 2". Wt: 5 oz. Experimental aircraft only. SKU: FF4006 Our Price: $72.85 Click to enlarge image PRICE AN6 FF4006 $72.85 On Nov 16, 2010, at 7:46 PM, wrote: About to start my first annual and want to change the fuel filter from the single unit to two under the seats like others have done. Are folks just using a second ES Airflow filter or something smaller? Would appreciate part numbers if you have them. Jay Rowe #40301 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2010
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
Just finished my second condition inspection. I too, thought about changing to move the filters under the seats. I purchased some of the auto racing fuel filters. I don't have the part numbers here with me at the office. Anyway, instillation would be straightforward. I planned to put some valves on the tank side to not have the fuel problem with changing them. As I look more closely at them, I decided to leave the stock set up alone. I think David's post is asking the question of proper fuel flow with the other filters. The stock filter in the tunnel has a very large screen surface. The automotive racing ones and the one from wicks noted unrestricted flow at 15 gal/hr. At take off, I also see upwards of 22-24 ga/hr flow. I also noted the screen size (about size of dime) looked like a great place for a contaminant obstruction. A good size Texas bug could easily knock out 50% of the fuel flow. I also read another post somewhere that high up in the reasons for experimental aircraft to fall from the sky was fuel system modification. Decided not to do any more test piloting. I made up a wrench to fit over the stock filter and it isn't as bad to change as it could be. Tim ; good post on the wheel pant bushings. Starting to see the same changes. I had to re torque mine this year. Will make some spacers the next time I have to get down there. Dr Fred 300 hrs 515FW. On 11/16/2010 7:46 PM, jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: > > About to start my first annual and want to change the fuel filter from the single unit to two under the seats like others have done. Are folks just using a second ES Airflow filter or something smaller? Would appreciate part numbers if you have them. Jay Rowe #40301 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Fuel Filter
Date: Nov 17, 2010
I made this cutout under the fuse to allow access to my filter from underneath. Works good. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Is the rudder hinge perpendicular to the horizontal level line
Does anyone happen to know if the rudder hinge line is perpendicular to the door sill? I understand the door sill is the horizontal datum line. It appears to be lined up with the cowling hinge line. And it appears to be normal to the rudder hinge line as well as being aligned with the rivet lines on the rudder. Not a critical question, just laying out some trim lines and triple checking my observations. Thanks Bill "happiness is a warm shop" Watson (now downloadable on iTunes if you don't already have it) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 17, 2010
The filter is good for 15gpm, which is 900gph - way more than what an IO540 consumes..... Sent from my iPhone On Nov 17, 2010, at 10:14 AM, "DLM" wrote: > what flow do you get for takeoff? My EFIS shows a 24 gph rate for full pow er; I am using the Lyc IO540 D4A5. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Kevin Belue > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 7:09 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter > > I put one of these filters in each wing root and they=99ve worked gr eat over 150hrs. Easy to clean and access in the wing root > > http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=14137~subid= 11799/index.html > > > FUEL FILTER-AN6 > A high-performance fuel filter designed to meet the needs of the aerospace industry, providing 15 gpm fuel flow with no pressure drop along with maxim um filtration protection. The 10 micron element is made of pleated 304 stain less steel and cleans easily with air or soluble rinse for indefinite re-use . The outer body is CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and clear anodized. I ncludes plated mounting bracket. For use with all fuels. Size: 4-1/4"x 2". W t: 5 oz. Experimental aircraft only. > > > SKU: FF4006 > Our Price: $72.85 > > > Click to enlarge image > > PRICE > AN6 FF4006 $72.85 > > On Nov 16, 2010, at 7:46 PM, wrote: > >> >> About to start my first annual and want to change the fuel filter from th e single unit to two under the seats like others have done. Are folks just u sing a second ES Airflow filter or something smaller? Would appreciate part numbers if you have them. Jay Rowe #40301 >> > > > href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com > href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ch ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co m/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 17, 2010
The Wicks filter I quoted earlier has a large filter element - much larger than a dime, more like 1.5 - 2 inches. When I was building, I was concerned about having only one filter - if it gets blocked you're coming down. With a filter on each tank, if one gets blocked, switch to the other tank. Also, I don't like the hard to access filter in the tunnel. Filters in the wing root are easy to access. The Wick's filter quoted before will flow 15gpm, which is 900gph - way more than required. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 17, 2010, at 11:33 AM, "Fred Williams, M.D." wrote: > > Just finished my second condition inspection. I too, thought about changing to move the filters under the seats. I purchased some of the auto racing fuel filters. I don't have the part numbers here with me at the office. Anyway, instillation would be straightforward. I planned to put some valves on the tank side to not have the fuel problem with changing them. As I look more closely at them, I decided to leave the stock set up alone. I think David's post is asking the question of proper fuel flow with the other filters. The stock filter in the tunnel has a very large screen surface. The automotive racing ones and the one from wicks noted unrestricted flow at 15 gal/hr. At take off, I also see upwards of 22-24 ga/hr flow. > > I also noted the screen size (about size of dime) looked like a great place for a contaminant obstruction. A good size Texas bug could easily knock out 50% of the fuel flow. > > I also read another post somewhere that high up in the reasons for experimental aircraft to fall from the sky was fuel system modification. Decided not to do any more test piloting. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
From: "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 17, 2010
Hi Jeff, I went through this almost 2 years ago, so I know the angst. Thankfully life has come full circle. If you want to finish on the cheap, you can pick up a Blue Mountain EFIS dirt cheap, less than the cost of steam. I would not fly IFR with it, but it would give you an easy upgrade path when finances improve, and still provide a full glass panel. Best of luck, Frank -------- Frank Dombroski RV-10 N10FD Flying RV-8 N84FD Finished and sold :-{ N40 Sky Manor Airport NJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319838#319838 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Is the rudder hinge perpendicular to the horizontal level
line Well, yes it appears to be. Interestingly, the ribs in the rudder are close to perpendicular to the hinge line.... but not quite. Thanks self. On 11/17/2010 1:11 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > > Does anyone happen to know if the rudder hinge line is perpendicular > to the door sill? > > I understand the door sill is the horizontal datum line. It appears > to be lined up with the cowling hinge line. And it appears to be > normal to the rudder hinge line as well as being aligned with the > rivet lines on the rudder. > > Not a critical question, just laying out some trim lines and triple > checking my observations. > > Thanks > Bill "happiness is a warm shop" Watson > (now downloadable on iTunes if you don't already have it) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Fuel Filter
Date: Nov 17, 2010
"When I was building, I was concerned about having only one filter - if it gets blocked you're coming down" I am not sure this is true for the stock build. I would have to go back and look, but there is a bypass line and check valve built in. I am not 100 percent sure, but maybe 90 percent. Anybody else know for sure. Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 11:41 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter The Wicks filter I quoted earlier has a large filter element - much larger than a dime, more like 1.5 - 2 inches. When I was building, I was concerned about having only one filter - if it gets blocked you're coming down. With a filter on each tank, if one gets blocked, switch to the other tank. Also, I don't like the hard to access filter in the tunnel. Filters in the wing root are easy to access. The Wick's filter quoted before will flow 15gpm, which is 900gph - way more than required. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 17, 2010, at 11:33 AM, "Fred Williams, M.D." wrote: > > Just finished my second condition inspection. I too, thought about changing to move the filters under the seats. I purchased some of the auto racing fuel filters. I don't have the part numbers here with me at the office. Anyway, instillation would be straightforward. I planned to put some valves on the tank side to not have the fuel problem with changing them. As I look more closely at them, I decided to leave the stock set up alone. I think David's post is asking the question of proper fuel flow with the other filters. The stock filter in the tunnel has a very large screen surface. The automotive racing ones and the one from wicks noted unrestricted flow at 15 gal/hr. At take off, I also see upwards of 22-24 ga/hr flow. > > I also noted the screen size (about size of dime) looked like a great place for a contaminant obstruction. A good size Texas bug could easily knock out 50% of the fuel flow. > > I also read another post somewhere that high up in the reasons for experimental aircraft to fall from the sky was fuel system modification. Decided not to do any more test piloting. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
Date: Nov 17, 2010
you are correct there is a bypass. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 3:51 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Filter > > "When I was building, I was concerned about having only one filter - if it > gets blocked you're coming down" > > I am not sure this is true for the stock build. I would have to go back > and > look, but there is a bypass line and check valve built in. I am not 100 > percent sure, but maybe 90 percent. > > Anybody else know for sure. > > Rene' Felker > N423CF > 801-721-6080 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue > Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 11:41 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter > > > The Wicks filter I quoted earlier has a large filter element - much larger > than a dime, more like 1.5 - 2 inches. When I was building, I was > concerned > about having only one filter - if it gets blocked you're coming down. With > a > filter on each tank, if one gets blocked, switch to the other tank. > Also, I don't like the hard to access filter in the tunnel. Filters in the > wing root are easy to access. The Wick's filter quoted before will flow > 15gpm, which is 900gph - way more than required. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 17, 2010, at 11:33 AM, "Fred Williams, M.D." > wrote: > > >> >> Just finished my second condition inspection. I too, thought about > changing to move the filters under the seats. I purchased some of the > auto > racing fuel filters. I don't have the part numbers here with me at the > office. Anyway, instillation would be straightforward. I planned to put > some valves on the tank side to not have the fuel problem with changing > them. As I look more closely at them, I decided to leave the stock set up > alone. I think David's post is asking the question of proper fuel flow > with > the other filters. The stock filter in the tunnel has a very large screen > surface. The automotive racing ones and the one from wicks noted > unrestricted flow at 15 gal/hr. At take off, I also see upwards of 22-24 > ga/hr flow. >> >> I also noted the screen size (about size of dime) looked like a great > place for a contaminant obstruction. A good size Texas bug could easily > knock out 50% of the fuel flow. >> >> I also read another post somewhere that high up in the reasons for > experimental aircraft to fall from the sky was fuel system modification. > Decided not to do any more test piloting. >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
Date: Nov 17, 2010
why BMA? no updates, no support , no repairs. I know the guy ho flew their tests and he had three different systems in the same airplane and always had at least one fail per flight. I suggest trying someone who is already/still in business. ----- Original Message ----- From: "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 4:19 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Six Year Anniversary > > Hi Jeff, > > I went through this almost 2 years ago, so I know the angst. Thankfully > life has come full circle. > > If you want to finish on the cheap, you can pick up a Blue Mountain EFIS > dirt cheap, less than the cost of steam. I would not fly IFR with it, but > it would give you an easy upgrade path when finances improve, and still > provide a full glass panel. > > Best of luck, > Frank > > -------- > Frank Dombroski > RV-10 N10FD Flying > RV-8 N84FD Finished and sold :-{ > N40 Sky Manor Airport NJ > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319838#319838 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Six Year Anniversary
Date: Nov 17, 2010
Dynon is a good option from what I have seen thus far, free updates, great support/forum; have replaced parts for me with no "restocking fees". If the forum is any indication of the failure rate they have a low rate and good customer following. Haven't flown behind one (yet) but I know of one -10 that has a Dynon and he has had good things to say about it- he has had it installed 4 years without a hiccup. Jeff; Don't worry about the instruments until the very end. Get the plane completely built, come up with what you want and wire everything up, wire the instruments last. -------------------------------------------------- From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 4:24 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Six Year Anniversary > > why BMA? no updates, no support , no repairs. I know the guy ho flew their > tests and he had three different systems in the same airplane and always > had at least one fail per flight. I suggest trying someone who is > already/still in business. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 4:19 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Six Year Anniversary > > >> >> Hi Jeff, >> >> I went through this almost 2 years ago, so I know the angst. Thankfully >> life has come full circle. >> >> If you want to finish on the cheap, you can pick up a Blue Mountain EFIS >> dirt cheap, less than the cost of steam. I would not fly IFR with it, but >> it would give you an easy upgrade path when finances improve, and still >> provide a full glass panel. >> >> Best of luck, >> Frank >> >> -------- >> Frank Dombroski >> RV-10 N10FD Flying >> RV-8 N84FD Finished and sold :-{ >> N40 Sky Manor Airport NJ >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319838#319838 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2010
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
Just a little heads up.... one person is talking gallons per minute, the ot her, gallons per hour. Don --- On Wed, 11/17/10, DLM wrote: From: DLM <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Date: Wednesday, November 17, 2010, 8:14 AM =EF=BB what flow do you get for takeoff? My EFIS shows a 24 gph rate for full powe r; I am using the Lyc IO540 D4A5. ----- Original Message ----- From: Kevin Belue Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 7:09 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter I put one of these filters in each wing root and they=99ve worked gre at over 150hrs.=C2-Easy to clean and access in the wing root http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=14137~subid =11799/index.html FUEL FILTER-AN6 A high-performance fuel filter designed to meet the needs of the aerospace industry, providing 15 gpm fuel flow with no pressure drop along with maxim um filtration protection. The 10 micron element is made of pleated 304 stai nless steel and cleans easily with air or soluble rinse for indefinite re-u se. The outer body is CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and clear anodized . Includes plated mounting bracket. For use with all fuels. Size:=C2-4-1/ 4"x 2". Wt: 5 oz. Experimental aircraft only. SKU:=C2-FF4006 Our Price: $72.85=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 - =C2- =C2- Click to enlarge image=C2- PRICE=C2-=C2- AN6=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-FF4006=C2-=C2-$72.85 On Nov 16, 2010, at 7:46 PM, wrote: About to start my first annual and want to change the fuel filter from the single unit to two under the seats like others have done. =C2-Are folks j ust using a second ES Airflow filter or something smaller? =C2-Would appr eciate part numbers if you have them. =C2-Jay Rowe #40301 href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co m/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re mounting the engine
Date: Nov 17, 2010
I had the engine on once before=2C but had to remove it to get the plane ou t of the basement. I have two questions. 1) It seems like the ears which come off the engine case have a slight amou nt of play in them before one torques down the four nuts which holds each o ne of them on. When I mounted my engine the first time I torqued the bolts which I could easily torque and guestimated the tightness on the others. Wh en mounting the engine to the engine mount=2C one of the engine bolts did n ot passively fit through the mount and the engine ear. It required a taperr ed steel dowl to align it and get the bolt in(not uncommon). Is it possible to leave that forth ear tight=2C but not torqued and get the forth engine bolt in through the mount and ear and then tighten the nuts o n the ear=2C remove the engine again and torque all the nuts for the ears a nd then remount the engine to the engine mount? Basically=2C is there enoug h play in the fit of the ears to allow this? If possible=2C it would help f rom straining the mount which would be best if it fit passively with the fo ur mount bolts. 2) The difficult access nuts on the engine ears (two of the total four) app ear to need torqueing with a crows foot and the torque wrench. I cannot fin d a site on the internet which explains the proper formula for setting the torque correctly when using a torgue wrench and a crows foot. Due to the of fset=2C does it mean one needs more torque or less? Thank you=2C John G 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 17, 2010
There is a bypass around the pump if it stops or to relieve excess flow, whi ch goes back to the fuel selector, but no bypass around the filter. See the fuel pump manual on Tim's site: http://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/FuelSystem/index.html Sent from my iPhone On Nov 17, 2010, at 6:14 PM, "Pascal" wrote: > > you are correct there is a bypass. > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> > Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 3:51 PM > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Filter > >> >> "When I was building, I was concerned about having only one filter - if i t >> gets blocked you're coming down" >> >> I am not sure this is true for the stock build. I would have to go back a nd >> look, but there is a bypass line and check valve built in. I am not 100 >> percent sure, but maybe 90 percent. >> >> Anybody else know for sure. >> >> Rene' Felker >> N423CF >> 801-721-6080 >> > > _- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: fuel filter maintenance
Date: Nov 17, 2010
At the second annual, we removed, cleaned, installed and leak tested the filter. TT was 265 hours. I believe I posted the pictures at that time. A few tiny black specks were found. The fuel filter was in excess of 99% completely clean and clear which suggests to me that unless an aircraft fuel tanks were not cleared of proseal after construction little will be found in the filter. A more likely problem could occur at the screens that may clog in each tank. As Kelly said there is a bypass anyway if the primary filter becomes clogged. Simply put, removing and cleaning the fuel filter at every annual is , in my judgment, overkill. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re mounting the engine
Date: Nov 17, 2010
Less torque, you are extending the lever arm. Dave Leikam RV-10 N89DA Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: John Gonzalez To: RV 10 group Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 9:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re mounting the engine I had the engine on once before, but had to remove it to get the plane out of the basement. I have two questions. 1) It seems like the ears which come off the engine case have a slight amount of play in them before one torques down the four nuts which holds each one of them on. When I mounted my engine the first time I torqued the bolts which I could easily torque and guestimated the tightness on the others. When mounting the engine to the engine mount, one of the engine bolts did not passively fit through the mount and the engine ear. It required a taperred steel dowl to align it and get the bolt in(not uncommon). Is it possible to leave that forth ear tight, but not torqued and get the forth engine bolt in through the mount and ear and then tighten the nuts on the ear, remove the engine again and torque all the nuts for the ears and then remount the engine to the engine mount? Basically, is there enough play in the fit of the ears to allow this? If possible, it would help from straining the mount which would be best if it fit passively with the four mount bolts. 2) The difficult access nuts on the engine ears (two of the total four) appear to need torqueing with a crows foot and the torque wrench. I cannot find a site on the internet which explains the proper formula for setting the torque correctly when using a torgue wrench and a crows foot. Due to the offset, does it mean one needs more torque or less? Thank you, John G 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Re mounting the engine
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Nov 17, 2010
As already noted, if the crow's foot is perpendicular to the torque wrench, then what you see is what you get. If the crow's foot and torque wrench are lined up straight (away), then the torque you get is greater than what is set, by the ratio of the total distance from your hand to the bolt, divided by the distance from your hand to the torque wrench square drive. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=319893#319893 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel filter maintenance
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 18, 2010
There isn't a bypass for the filter..... Sent from my iPhone On Nov 18, 2010, at 8:43 AM, Dave Saylor wrote: > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-10 for X-plane
Date: Nov 18, 2010
May be old for some but if you have X-plane this looks like a great plane. http://forums.x-plane.org/index.php?app=downloads&showfile=11201&show comments=1 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 18, 2010
Subject: Re: fuel filter maintenance
Oops. I thought I remembered the conical spring being part of a bypass but apparently not. But I still wouldn't use FF as a measure of how clogged the filter is. I felt silly for talking about the filter bypass so I read up on the whole pump assembly. It seems to run a lot more fuel through itself than what the engine uses. It uses the excess fuel to cool the pump. So if your filter isn't letting a ton of fuel through, even though you're still seeing adequate fuel flow, a partially clogged filter may be limiting how much excess fuel is available to cool the pump. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 6:57 AM, Kevin Belue wrote: > > There isn't a bypass for the filter..... > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 18, 2010, at 8:43 AM, Dave Saylor wrote: > >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2010
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: Wing Skins Seam
I am getting ready to put the top skins on my left wing. I understand that some people have taken some material off the skins at the seam of the two skins to smooth the lap. Others have joggled the seam. Still others have simply riveted the seam together. I would like to know the pros and cons of each approach and if you joggled the seam, how you worked with the joggle where it meets the fuel tank. Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA Wings ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Brass Torx or Socket Head Screws For Panel
I am trying to locate a supplier of black brass machine screws for my panel. I'd like to have torx or socket heads. I found a few suppliers of phillips head black brass machine screws like Aircraft Spruce, but I cannot locate any with torx or socket heads. Thanks for any info... -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Brass Torx or Socket Head Screws For Panel
I use McMaster-Carr for my hard to find hardware. Linn On 11/18/2010 6:36 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > I am trying to locate a supplier of black brass machine screws for my > panel. I'd like to have torx or socket heads. I found a few > suppliers of phillips head black brass machine screws like Aircraft > Spruce, but I cannot locate any with torx or socket heads. > > Thanks for any info... > > -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Brass Torx or Socket Head Screws For Panel
Me too. As I recall I populated my panel with black painted stainless socket heads from MMC. However, I couldn't get the right non-corrossive black socket heads for one backup steam guage - ASI or ALT. The length I needed was only available in black painted regular steel and it started corroding immediately. I'll have to go back and check the instrument and screw lengths to see if anyone has a source. I forgot, why do we want to use brass - magnetics right? Bill "prep prep prep prep paint" Watson On 11/18/2010 7:32 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > I use McMaster-Carr for my hard to find hardware. > Linn > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few Days Left; Well Behind Last Year...
Dear Listers, There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser. Response has been good so far, but we're well behind last year at this point. If you've been waiting until the last minute to make your Contribution, now might be good time to show your support and maybe pick up a nice gift as well! Please remember that there is no commercial advertising on these Lists and the *only* means of keeping them running is through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. If it weren't for your individual Contributions, these Lists could easily become economically infeasible and simply cease to exist. You probably can't even take the family out to dinner for $20 these days, but your individual Contribution of the same amount makes a huge difference in keeping the List services alive. Please make a Contribution today with a Credit Card or Paypal: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 for X-plane
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 19, 2010
I'm the one who must be old - I didn't even know it was a game. -------- #40572 Painted but still in pieces N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320071#320071 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Brass Torx or Socket Head Screws For Panel
Thanks for all the replies on and off list. It seems that it is hard to find brass fasteners that are Black Ox coated AND are something other than phillips or slotted head. McMaster-Carr (which most of the replies suggested) has a great selection of brass fasteners, but none of them that I could see were Black Ox coated. They have steel in Black Ox, but not brass. I guess there's always self-painting the heads. -Sean #40303 On 11/18/10 5:36 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > I am trying to locate a supplier of black brass machine screws for my > panel. I'd like to have torx or socket heads. I found a few > suppliers of phillips head black brass machine screws like Aircraft > Spruce, but I cannot locate any with torx or socket heads. > > Thanks for any info... > > -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2010
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Analysis kit info
I just had my kits ship today and I found out that the price below is slightly wrong. The kits are $70/10, but with prepaid postage, they're now $92.50. The postage is $2.25 each. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD On 11/3/2010 4:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > A while back I did a write-up with an oil change where I > listed my contact info for where I got my oil analysis > test kits. At the time I got them from Shell Labs, and > it was the best deal I could find...$70 for 10, or, > $85/10 which includes prepaid postage. I did the latter. > > Last week a couple things happened. 1) I used up my > first 10 test kits. 2) Some "polaris labs" called to > get my contact info, telling me that they were now > the Shell subcontracted lab. I found out that my old > lab was now not being used by Shellcare. So, I started > shopping again for a new oil analysis provider. Most > prices ran $12 to $24 per sample....many are available > for around $14 per sample. > > In the end though, I contacted the original company > that shell used. > http://www.analystsinc.com/ > > They just sold me another 10 test kits for $85 with > prepaid postage, so I'm set for a while again. I have > to sign a form authorizing them my old historical info > from Shell, but from that point on it's the same > test lab so the sampling and reporting will be identical. > > The person I talked to was > Katie > 847-305-9955 > > I thought I'd pass it on because oil analysis is a great > thing for long term trending, but it's expensive if you > don't find a good deal, and I think this was a pretty good > deal compared to what others cost. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Brass Torx or Socket Head Screws For Panel
I saw a Cirrus SR-20 today that had black allen head screws for holding the instruments. It was a fairly early 2000's model with mostly 6-pack of steam gauges. Obviously Cirrus had to source them somewhere. On 11/19/2010 9:42 AM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > Thanks for all the replies on and off list. It seems that it is hard > to find brass fasteners that are Black Ox coated AND are something > other than phillips or slotted head. > > McMaster-Carr (which most of the replies suggested) has a great > selection of brass fasteners, but none of them that I could see were > Black Ox coated. They have steel in Black Ox, but not brass. > > I guess there's always self-painting the heads. > > -Sean #40303 > > > On 11/18/10 5:36 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: >> I am trying to locate a supplier of black brass machine screws for my >> panel. I'd like to have torx or socket heads. I found a few >> suppliers of phillips head black brass machine screws like Aircraft >> Spruce, but I cannot locate any with torx or socket heads. >> >> Thanks for any info... >> >> -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: fuel flow transducer location
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Date: Nov 19, 2010
Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320145#320145 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
From: David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
I called Flo-Scan about the placement of mine and they told me the worst place to put the sensor is between the electric pump and the mechanical pump. Best would be before both pumps. I put mine after the fuel servo mounted on top of the air box. Flo-Scan said this would work fine. Dave Leikam On Nov 20, 2010, at 1:19 AM, rvdave wrote: > > Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320145#320145 > > > > > > > > > > David Leikam RV10 N89DA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
As always, it depends. You want straight hose on either side of the transducer for smooth transition without burbles. Sometimes that is easier between fuel pump and servo, sometimes easier between servo and flow divider. I suppose if one moved the boost pump and filter forward in the tunnel it could be ahead of the filter. On Sat, Nov 20, 2010 at 5:38 AM, David Leikam wrote: > > I called Flo-Scan about the placement of mine and they told me the worst place to put the sensor is between the electric pump and the mechanical pump. Best would be before both pumps. I put mine after the fuel servo mounted on top of the air box. Flo-Scan said this would work fine. > > Dave Leikam > > On Nov 20, 2010, at 1:19 AM, rvdave wrote: > >> >> Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? >> >> -------- >> Dave Ford >> RV6 flying >> RV10 building >> Cadillac, MI >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320145#320145 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > David Leikam > RV10 > N89DA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2010
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube FT-60. I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line before and after the cube. I know it is between the electrical Andair pump and the mechanical pump but it is the recommendation location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings and lines in the engine compartment. I will move it if needed after the plane is flying. I will make up a new bypass fuel line while the tunnel is easily accessible just in case it needs to be moved. David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320145#320145 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Subject: fuel flow transducer location
I mounted mine (not the red cube) in the tunnel with a nice long smooth lead in and out of the transducer and my readings were basically useless. Boost pump on added 3-5 gph with some bouncing. Boost pump off had 1-3 gph bouncing including low reading bouncing into the yellow that gave me low fuel flow warnings both in climb out and randomly in cruse flight. BTW this also threw off my fuel consumption/remaining fuel calculations. Not good! Furthermore the bouncing makes it impossible to balance ones fuel injectors as you cannot get accurate FF readings. Finally fed up with the issue we relocated the transducer between the fuel servo and flow divider. Since then my readings have been rock solid and all low fuel pressure warnings + bouncing is gone. If building I would not waste my time placing the transducer in the tunnel again. Sorry no photos. Robin *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of * davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net *Sent:* Saturday, November 20, 2010 5:26 AM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube FT-60. I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line before and after the cube. I know it is between the electrical Andair pump and the mechanical pump but it is the recommendation location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings and lines in the engine compartment. I will move it if needed after the plane is flying. I will make up a new bypass fuel line while the tunnel is easily accessible just in case it needs to be moved. David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/view &nbs========= * * * * ------------------------------ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2010
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: fuel flow transducer location
Has any of you ask about the long term or short term of the vibration from engine on the transducer,if you mount it on the engine and not a solid piec e of the aircraft such as the firewqll or engine mount? -My understanding is it shortens the life of the transducer. -Just my thoughts. Patrick Thyssen --- On Sat, 11/20/10, Robin Marks wrote: From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 8:48 AM I mounted mine (not the red cube) in the tunnel with a nice long smooth lea d in and out of the transducer and my readings were basically useless. Boos t pump on added 3-5 gph with some bouncing. Boost pump off had 1-3 gph boun cing including low reading bouncing into the yellow that gave me low fuel f low warnings both in climb out and randomly in cruse flight. BTW this also threw off my fuel consumption/remaining fuel calculations. Not good! -Fur thermore the bouncing makes it impossible to balance ones fuel injectors as you cannot get accurate FF readings.=0AFinally fed up with the issue we re located the transducer between the fuel servo and flow divider. Since then my readings have been rock solid and all low fuel pressure warnings + bounc ing is gone. If building I would not waste my time placing the transducer i n the tunnel again.=0ASorry no photos.Robin=0A-=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-s erver(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net =0ASent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 5:26 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location=0A-I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube FT-60.- I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line before and after the cube.- I know i t is between the electrical Andair pump and the mechanical pump but it is t he recommendation location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings and lines in the engine compartment.- I will move it if needed after the plane is f lying.- I will make up a new bypass- fuel line while the tunnel is easi ly accessible just in case it needs to be moved. =0A David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location =0A Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctu ations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution fo r fuel injection, is this correct? -------- Dave Ford =0ARV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/view - - - - - - - - - - &n bs========= =0A --=0A-------- (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)=0Ae Co ntribution link below to find out more about=0Aee Incentive Gifts providedw ww.aeroelectric.comookstore www.buildersbooks.com=0Aef="http://www.homebu ilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com=0Aontribution">http://www.matronics.com/ contribution =0A================= =0A= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, =0Amatronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A=== ============== =0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com =0A==================0ANo virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.115=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Fuel Fitings
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Just a reminder, if you need special fuel AN type fittings Earls has all kinds of stuff for sale at Off Road/4X4 outlets. Here's their website for pics. http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Earls This is the on-line catalog http://www.holley.com/EarlsCatalog/Catalog.asp?pageNumber=44 Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: fuel flow transducer location
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Here is were I mounted mine. 170 HRS and so far so good. I know other people have it here as well. Geoff Combs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 10:18 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Has any of you ask about the long term or short term of the vibration from engine on the transducer,if you mount it on the engine and not a solid piece of the aircraft such as the firewqll or engine mount? My understanding is it shortens the life of the transducer. Just my thoughts. Patrick Thyssen --- On Sat, 11/20/10, Robin Marks wrote: From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 8:48 AM I mounted mine (not the red cube) in the tunnel with a nice long smooth lead in and out of the transducer and my readings were basically useless. Boost pump on added 3-5 gph with some bouncing. Boost pump off had 1-3 gph bouncing including low reading bouncing into the yellow that gave me low fuel flow warnings both in climb out and randomly in cruse flight. BTW this also threw off my fuel consumption/remaining fuel calculations. Not good! Furthermore the bouncing makes it impossible to balance ones fuel injectors as you cannot get accurate FF readings. Finally fed up with the issue we relocated the transducer between the fuel servo and flow divider. Since then my readings have been rock solid and all low fuel pressure warnings + bouncing is gone. If building I would not waste my time placing the transducer in the tunnel again. Sorry no photos. Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 5:26 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube FT-60. I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line before and after the cube. I know it is between the electrical Andair pump and the mechanical pump but it is the recommendation location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings and lines in the engine compartment. I will move it if needed after the plane is flying. I will make up a new bypass fuel line while the tunnel is easily accessible just in case it needs to be moved. David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/view &nbs========= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) e Contribution link below to find out more about ee Incentive Gifts provided www.aeroelectric.com ookstore www.buildersbooks.com ef="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com ontribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ================ = the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1 0-L ist ================ http://forums.matronics.com ================= _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.115 wwrget="_blank" href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com> http://www.matronics.com/co_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> >http://www.mal="nofollow" target="_blank" ============ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
If you look at the documentation that JPI sends with their products for installing their (Floscan) sensor, it recommends installation on the hose inline between the servo and the spider, next best location is between the mech pump and the servo. None of their instructions call for hard mounting the transducer. Floscan lists the bearing life as 10,000 hrs. Deems On 11/20/2010 8:18 AM, Patrick Thyssen wrote: > > Has any of you ask about the long term or short term of the vibration > from engine on the transducer,if you mount it on the engine and not a > solid piece of the aircraft such as the firewqll or engine mount? > My understanding is it shortens the life of the transducer. > Just my thoughts. > Patrick Thyssen > > --- On *Sat, 11/20/10, Robin Marks //* wrote: > > > From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 8:48 AM > > I mounted mine (not the red cube) in the tunnel with a nice long > smooth lead in and out of the transducer and my readings were > basically useless. Boost pump on added 3-5 gph with some bouncing. > Boost pump off had 1-3 gph bouncing including low reading bouncing > into the yellow that gave me low fuel flow warnings both in climb > out and randomly in cruse flight. BTW this also threw off my fuel > consumption/remaining fuel calculations. Not good! Furthermore > the bouncing makes it impossible to balance ones fuel injectors as > you cannot get accurate FF readings. > > Finally fed up with the issue we relocated the transducer between > the fuel servo and flow divider. Since then my readings have been > rock solid and all low fuel pressure warnings + bouncing is gone. > If building I would not waste my time placing the transducer in > the tunnel again. > > Sorry no photos. > > Robin > > *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] *On Behalf > Of *davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net > > *Sent:* Saturday, November 20, 2010 5:26 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location > > I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube > FT-60. I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line > before and after the cube. I know it is between the electrical > Andair pump and the mechanical pump but it is the recommendation > location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings and lines in the > engine compartment. I will move it if needed after the plane is > flying. I will make up a new bypass fuel line while the tunnel > is easily accessible just in case it needs to be moved. > > David Clifford > > RV-10 Builder > 65% Done-95% To Go > N849RV (reserved) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net > > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM > Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location > > > > > Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are > less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and > before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/view &nbs========= > > > * * > > * * > > (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) e Contribution link > below to find out more about ee Incentive Gifts provided > > *www.aeroelectric.com* > > ookstore www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com> > ef="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com > ontribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ================= = the many List utilities such as List > Un/Subscription, > matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List================ > http://forums.matronics.com ================ > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > Version: 10.0.115 > > *wwrget="_blank" href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com> http://www.matronics.com/co_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.mal="nofollow" target="_blank" > ============ > <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>* > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
Date: Nov 20, 2010
I too mounted the GRT unit as shown in the tunnel by Vans; no problems from beginning TT360 ----- Original Message ----- From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 6:26 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube FT-60. I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line before and after the cube. I know it is between the electrical Andair pump and the mechanical pump but it is the recommendation location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings and lines in the engine compartment. I will move it if needed after the plane is flying. I will make up a new bypass fuel line while the tunnel is easily accessible just in case it needs to be moved. David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/view &nbs========= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Look at the archives for "569JC" (April 2010) Here is the bottom line however: What went wrong? The short version: a fuel line broke. The long version: During final assembly it came to my attention that people with the Fuel Flow transducer in the =93Tunnel=94 where experiencing FF fluctuation when using the electric pump. The fix? Move the FF Transducer to between the Fuel Injection Servo and the Spider. Well, that=92s what I did. When I relocated the Transducer I had to fabricate a line between the Servo and the Transducer. The line I fabricated was =BC inch aluminum, that was the flaw. That line broke just outside the fitting. When I made that line I made sure it wasn=92t under any stress, in a natural position, etc. Apparently that was not enough. Now, I will say this. This was the one component of the airplane I was never quite happy with. It just =93didn=92t look right=94. I had some other builders take a look, half heartedly hoping they would tell me that aluminum was bad and I should change it, but no one did. So it stayed, and worked fine for 58 hours. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5834625/RV10/photo%203.jpg Ask yourself, if already installed, if it's worth moving the transducer. There was talk of this in the past and in the end a high time flyer left his where it is and knows for the times the fuel pump is on the transducer is inaccurate but ultimately it plays little factor in the big scheme of things. I saw Robin's post and know he had pains but I also know of two others that have not. I was worried about this in the past so I bring this up so the newer builders don't get worried about moving the transducer. I say- leave it alone and deal with it once flying if it's an issue of safety or other concern. Pascal From: Patrick Thyssen Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 7:18 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Has any of you ask about the long term or short term of the vibration from engine on the transducer,if you mount it on the engine and not a solid piece of the aircraft such as the firewqll or engine mount? My understanding is it shortens the life of the transducer. Just my thoughts. Patrick Thyssen --- On Sat, 11/20/10, Robin Marks wrote: From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 8:48 AM I mounted mine (not the red cube) in the tunnel with a nice long smooth lead in and out of the transducer and my readings were basically useless. Boost pump on added 3-5 gph with some bouncing. Boost pump off had 1-3 gph bouncing including low reading bouncing into the yellow that gave me low fuel flow warnings both in climb out and randomly in cruse flight. BTW this also threw off my fuel consumption/remaining fuel calculations. Not good! Furthermore the bouncing makes it impossible to balance ones fuel injectors as you cannot get accurate FF readings. Finally fed up with the issue we relocated the transducer between the fuel servo and flow divider. Since then my readings have been rock solid and all low fuel pressure warnings + bouncing is gone. If building I would not waste my time placing the transducer in the tunnel again. Sorry no photos. Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 5:26 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube FT-60. I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line before and after the cube. I know it is between the electrical Andair pump and the mechanical pump but it is the recommendation location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings and lines in the engine compartment. I will move it if needed after the plane is flying. I will make up a new bypass fuel line while the tunnel is easily accessible just in case it needs to be moved. David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/view &nbs========= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) e Contribution link below to find out more about ee Incentive Gifts provided www.aeroelectric.comookstore www.buildersbooks.com ef="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com ontribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ================ = the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1 0-List ================ http://forums.matronics.com ================= ------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.115 wwrget="_blank" href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com> http://www.matronics.com/co_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.mal="n ofollow" target="_blank" ============= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Mine is going in the tunnel per plans. Will move after flying if I feel it is needed then. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09 Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs Fuselage 9/21/10- Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320174#320174 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
I put mine in the tunnel per the plans. Flawless readings after 90+ hrs. -------- See you OSH '11 Q/B - flying 1 yr+ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320177#320177 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel flow transducer location
From: Jay Rowe <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
I have had such a different experience. GRT supplied transducer in "stock" t unnel location. After calibration it hasn't skipped a beat. Does not fluctua te and doesn't change with or without boost pump Totalizer always within a gallon of actual used--all this after 200 hours. Now I hope I just didn't j inks myself. Jay Rowe 40301 Sent from my iPhone On Nov 20, 2010, at 9:48 AM, Robin Marks wrote: > I mounted mine (not the red cube) in the tunnel with a nice long smooth le ad in and out of the transducer and my readings were basically useless. Boos t pump on added 3-5 gph with some bouncing. Boost pump off had 1-3 gph bounc ing including low reading bouncing into the yellow that gave me low fuel flo w warnings both in climb out and randomly in cruse flight. BTW this also thr ew off my fuel consumption/remaining fuel calculations. Not good! Furthermo re the bouncing makes it impossible to balance ones fuel injectors as you ca nnot get accurate FF readings. > > Finally fed up with the issue we relocated the transducer between the fuel servo and flow divider. Since then my readings have been rock solid and all low fuel pressure warnings + bouncing is gone. If building I would not wast e my time placing the transducer in the tunnel again. > > Sorry no photos. > > Robin > > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net > Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 5:26 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location > > > > I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube FT-60. I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line before and after the cub e. I know it is between the electrical Andair pump and the mechanical pump b ut it is the recommendation location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings a nd lines in the engine compartment. I will move it if needed after the plan e is flying. I will make up a new bypass fuel line while the tunnel is eas ily accessible just in case it needs to be moved. > > David Clifford > > RV-10 Builder > 65% Done-95% To Go > N849RV (reserved) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM > Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location > > > Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluct uations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution fo r fuel injection, is this correct? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/view &nbs====== === > > > > > > (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) e Contribution link below to f ind out more about ee Incentive Gifts provided > www.aeroelectric.com > ookstore www.buildersbooks.com ef="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.hom ebuilthelp.com ontribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ==== ============ > = the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, matronics.com/Na vigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ==== ============ > http://forums.matronics.com ================ > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.115 > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: Fuel Fitings
Date: Nov 20, 2010
I've been buying Earl's AN fittings thru JEg's online catalog as they seem to be a bit cheaper. Usually have a pix of the fitting also. From: ibspud(at)roadrunner.com Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Fitings Date: Sat=2C 20 Nov 2010 08:15:37 -0700 Just a reminder=2C if you need special fuel AN type fittings Earls has all kinds of stuff for sale at Off Road/4X4 outlets. Here's their website for p ics. http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Earls This is the on-line c ataloghttp://www.holley.com/EarlsCatalog/Catalog.asp?pageNumber=44 Albert GardnerN991RVYuma=2C AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Curtis <wwc4(at)njit.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel Fitings
Date: Nov 20, 2010
I like AN Plumbing http://www.anpluming.com/shop/. I also tried http://discounthydraulichose.com located here in PA but they do not seem to want to cater to the small quantities that a typical RV builder might require. AN Plumbing seems to have reasonable prices, a web site that is easy to navigate, good selection and no service fee for small orders. William Curtis 40237 On Nov 20, 2010, at 10:15, "Albert Gardner" wrote: > Just a reminder, if you need special fuel AN type fittings Earls has all kinds of stuff for sale at Off Road/4X4 outlets. Here's their website for pics. > > http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Earls > > > > This is the on-line catalog > > http://www.holley.com/EarlsCatalog/Catalog.asp?pageNumber=44 > > > > Albert Gardner > > N991RV > > Yuma, AZ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Fuel Fitings
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Better spell plumBing (with the =9CB=9D) or you won=99t get there. : ^) Albert From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 1:29 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Fitings I like AN Plumbing http://www.anpluming.com/shop/. I also tried http://discounthydraulichose.com located here in PA but they do not seem to want to cater to the small quantities that a typical RV builder might require. AN Plumbing seems to have reasonable prices, a web site that is easy to navigate, good selection and no service fee for small orders. William Curtis 40237 ============== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Rivet Set Recommendation?
Just an update for those not to the fuse side skins yet. I actually went with the 7 1/2 inch version of what PJ linked below just to make sure I cleared the spar with the rivet gun. http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,3741.html This worked great for the fuse side skins next to the spar. I wish I had this set when doing the bottom wing skins next to the flap attach also. One note, that is similar for other longer rivet sets. It takes quite a bit more pressure with the added length. This is one of those places that I wished I had gotten a 3x gun instead of a 2x. -Sean #40303 (long and nasty section 29 almost complete) On 11/15/10 1:06 PM, PJ Seipel wrote: >> I used http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,3673.html >> >> The face is curved enough to give you room for the rivet gun and >> still keep it flat on the rivet. >> >> PJ Seipel >> RV-10 #40032 >> >> On 11/15/2010 10:04 AM, Sean Stephens wrote: >>> What have others used for a rivet set to get the rivets on the fuse >>> skins next to the spar carry through in the attached pic? I don't >>> have a >>> swivel flush set, but maybe that would work? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> -Sean #40303 >>> >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivet Set Recommendation?
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
on the rivets near flap hinges and these. Already had this tool and did not want to buy another tool for just a few places. Just put masking tape over rivets to help keep it from sliding, have a helper on the other side and keep your set straight. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09 Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs Fuselage 9/21/10- Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320199#320199 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
In the middle of my condition inspection and found the left hand socket screw on the nose wheel fork has been sheared off cleanly. I have no idea when this happened. I have had the nose wheel pant off two or three times in the past year and did not notice it. (that doesn't mean it wasn't already broken the last time I was in there) [Embarassed] It looks like it will be a bear to get it out of there. Has anybody else had this happen? I suspect it was probably an overzealous FBO moving the airplane. On another note, I just installed Sean's Planearound main gear wheel pant bracket spacers and they are beautiful! Two years and 310 hours, and mine looked fine, but these are really nice and I won't be worrying about them again. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320203#320203 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
David, Buy yourself an Alden Corp. Drill-Out bolt extractor set from Ace or Home Depot. These things are great. They have bailed me out of multiple screw ups. Jim Berry N15JB Phase 1 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320215#320215 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Snap on easy outs..... drill an appropriate size hole in the center of the sheared area. insert easy out, note left hand threads. turning the easy out left will remove the screw. when removed you will see a sheared screw with easy out inserted into it. separate and insert new screw. Screws are available from McMaster Carr. ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)me.com> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 4:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws > > In the middle of my condition inspection and found the left hand socket screw on the nose wheel fork has been sheared off cleanly. I have no idea when this happened. I have had the nose wheel pant off two or three times in the past year and did not notice it. (that doesn't mean it wasn't already broken the last time I was in there) [Embarassed] > It looks like it will be a bear to get it out of there. Has anybody else had this happen? I suspect it was probably an overzealous FBO moving the airplane. > > On another note, I just installed Sean's Planearound main gear wheel pant bracket spacers and they are beautiful! Two years and 310 hours, and mine looked fine, but these are really nice and I won't be worrying about them again. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320203#320203 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Thanks guy's. I will get an easy out set and get it out of there. I have an inexpensive one I bought from Sears a few years ago and have never had any luck with it, so will get a good one now. I have been thinking about this and am considering putting some "tow limit" marks on the nose gear fairing and the wheel pant. I try to make it clear to FBO's that I want to be there if the airplane is going to be towed, but that is not always possible. Has anybody else put tow limit marks on the airplane? -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320219#320219 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
On my Mooney, turning the nose wheel with a tug past the stops causes over $1000 worth of damage. FBO's have paid for damage to Mooneys enough that they are sensitive to the problem and most will honor a no tow request. I simply ask where I can park to assure that they will not need to tow it. I have a "Do Not Tow" banner to hang on the nose gear where tow bar attaches. On Sat, Nov 20, 2010 at 6:48 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote: > > Thanks guy's. I will get an easy out set and get it out of there. I have an inexpensive one I bought from Sears a few years ago and have never had any luck with it, so will get a good one now. > > I have been thinking about this and am considering putting some "tow limit" marks on the nose gear fairing and the wheel pant. I try to make it clear to FBO's that I want to be there if the airplane is going to be towed, but that is not always possible. Has anybody else put tow limit marks on the airplane? > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320219#320219 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
If they're so ham-fisted that they broke the stop, then no amount of marks are going to help. And you'll just get questioned on 'what are those marks for???' FWIW, i'll bet that the stop got broken when a lineman pushed it backwards, got a little speed up and then the nose gear snapped around to the stop. Replacing the stops with hardened screws would probably shift the damage somewhere else. Linn On 11/20/2010 8:48 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)me.com" > > Thanks guy's. I will get an easy out set and get it out of there. I have an inexpensive one I bought from Sears a few years ago and have never had any luck with it, so will get a good one now. > > I have been thinking about this and am considering putting some "tow limit" marks on the nose gear fairing and the wheel pant. I try to make it clear to FBO's that I want to be there if the airplane is going to be towed, but that is not always possible. Has anybody else put tow limit marks on the airplane? > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320219#320219 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
Date: Nov 20, 2010
NEVER let a FBO move your plane or fuel it. When I fly to the "full service" FBOs I always call ahead and tell them I will taxi to parking and if I get fuel it will be right before departure. All FBOs have honored my request. A long time ago I let an FBO fuel my 8A - once. I ended up 7 gallons short of full tanks on a leg that I really wanted to have the reserve. I noted the disparity between indicated fuel level (once I burned off some fuel to get into the indication range) and fuel totalizer so I knew then I was shorted. No big deal but a good lesson learned. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 9:00 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws On my Mooney, turning the nose wheel with a tug past the stops causes over $1000 worth of damage. FBO's have paid for damage to Mooneys enough that they are sensitive to the problem and most will honor a no tow request. I simply ask where I can park to assure that they will not need to tow it. I have a "Do Not Tow" banner to hang on the nose gear where tow bar attaches. On Sat, Nov 20, 2010 at 6:48 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote: > > Thanks guy's. I will get an easy out set and get it out of there. I have an inexpensive one I bought from Sears a few years ago and have never had any luck with it, so will get a good one now. > > I have been thinking about this and am considering putting some "tow limit" marks on the nose gear fairing and the wheel pant. I try to make it clear to FBO's that I want to be there if the airplane is going to be towed, but that is not always possible. Has anybody else put tow limit marks on the airplane? > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320219#320219 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
Date: Nov 20, 2010
Just piling on to the "don't let the lineman move the plane" thread...Before I got my wheelpants on, a guy hooked the towbar to some convenient holes in the front fork and sheared the nose tire valve stem. Pretty unimpressive. I am quite clear about not moving the airplane now. I was a lineboy in high school and loved the job and don't mean to generically put down the line folk, but our airplanes are unique enough to warrant extra care. Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 9:23 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws If they're so ham-fisted that they broke the stop, then no amount of marks are going to help. And you'll just get questioned on 'what are those marks for???' FWIW, i'll bet that the stop got broken when a lineman pushed it backwards, got a little speed up and then the nose gear snapped around to the stop. Replacing the stops with hardened screws would probably shift the damage somewhere else. Linn On 11/20/2010 8:48 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)me.com" > > Thanks guy's. I will get an easy out set and get it out of there. I have an inexpensive one I bought from Sears a few years ago and have never had any luck with it, so will get a good one now. > > I have been thinking about this and am considering putting some "tow limit" marks on the nose gear fairing and the wheel pant. I try to make it clear to FBO's that I want to be there if the airplane is going to be towed, but that is not always possible. Has anybody else put tow limit marks on the airplane? > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320219#320219 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in
December! Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2010
I am also very careful about letting anybody tow my airplane. I also have a no tow banner that I put on the nose gear if needed. Many certified airplanes have tow limit marks and any lineman worth his salt is familiar with them and what they mean. So, I am considering going that route as an additional precaution. Some of you may remember that I suffered serious nose wheel pant damage on my very first trip out of phase 1 and the paint shop. Lineman used a tow bar head that had pins that did not fit over the bolts. He then proceeded to push the airplane and ripped back from the holes in the wheel pants. The line manager had been told that I wanted to be there when they moved the airplane. Lineboy took it on himself to reposition the airplane. Worst thing was that he did not tell anyone what he had done. I came back out to the ramp to find my airplane moved and when I walked up to it, the damage was apparent. The FBO paid to have the pant repaired and repainted. Long story, but my point is that I take all of the precautions that you all are advocating, and it still happened. Here is a photo of the damage done by my incident. Very first trip outside of the Phase 1 area! :x -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320310#320310 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0916_965.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2010
Oops! Sorry about the size of that photo. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320311#320311 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: full service
I do the fueling, airing the tires, windshield clean ......... Shorted fuel, damage around the filler, wrong fuel ..... the possibilities are endless!!! Nobody will have the attention to detail that you do. Why wait 'till the lineboy (or girl) dings your wing before you do it yourself??? I watched a Piper get fueled in pouring rain (I was waiting for weather to go through so I could continue on) .... the lineboy removed the cap, went to get the hose, fueled, rewound the hose, and then put the cap back on. How much water went in the tank??? I don't know, but I told the lady at the counter what happened, and she pointed out a gentleman sitting in the lounge reading a magazine ..... so I told him too. His answer: "Oh, that's OK, I'll sump it before I go." He did ... quickly, and shortly after the bill was paid and then he left. Hope he made it home safely. Linn On 11/20/2010 10:33 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" > > NEVER let a FBO move your plane or fuel it. When I fly to the "full > service" FBOs I always call ahead and tell them I will taxi to parking and > if I get fuel it will be right before departure. All FBOs have honored my > request. > > A long time ago I let an FBO fuel my 8A - once. I ended up 7 gallons short > of full tanks on a leg that I really wanted to have the reserve. I noted > the disparity between indicated fuel level (once I burned off some fuel to > get into the indication range) and fuel totalizer so I knew then I was > shorted. No big deal but a good lesson learned. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 9:00 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Turn Limiting Screws > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen > > On my Mooney, turning the nose wheel with a tug past the stops causes > over $1000 worth of damage. FBO's have paid for damage to Mooneys > enough that they are sensitive to the problem and most will honor a no > tow request. I simply ask where I can park to assure that they will > not need to tow it. I have a "Do Not Tow" banner to hang on the nose > gear where tow bar attaches. > > On Sat, Nov 20, 2010 at 6:48 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)me.com" >> >> Thanks guy's. I will get an easy out set and get it out of there. I have > an inexpensive one I bought from Sears a few years ago and have never had > any luck with it, so will get a good one now. >> I have been thinking about this and am considering putting some "tow > limit" marks on the nose gear fairing and the wheel pant. I try to make it > clear to FBO's that I want to be there if the airplane is going to be towed, > but that is not always possible. Has anybody else put tow limit marks on the > airplane? >> -------- >> David Maib >> RV-10 #40559 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320219#320219 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2010
Subject: Matco Nose Axle Torquing
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I'm getting prepared to put the plane up on the gear soon and was mounting the nose wheel to the fork today. I have the replacement Matco Axle and wheel and the sweet-spot to preload the bearings isn't real obvious on their setup. I tightened the nut as tight as I could get it by hand and besides having quite a bit of drag, the bearing seal creeps along (slowly) with the wheel. I could tighten the nut to the next locking spot. But to do that it will take some Channel Locks to spin the nut and I feel like that would be way too much load on the bearings. Have others who have gone hand-tight and still allowed the seal to creep along with the wheel been happy with the (Long-Term) results? Or should I just crank this baby down? Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: drilling gear legs
Date: Nov 21, 2010
Getting ready to drill main gear legs through the main gear housing........ ......any trick to making sure they are aligned correctly?? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: cab-o-sil
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2010
I just had gallbladder surgery and am starting on my doors. I'm not sure which is worse. The plans call out "cab-o-sil" for an epoxy filler. I have West Systems 410 fairing filler. Will that do, or do I need the real cab-o-McCoy? Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320399#320399 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2010
Subject: Re: cab-o-sil
Myron, 410 is a non-structural filler. Cabosil is a thickening agent that won't significantly reduce the strength of the resin. It allows the resin to adhere to vertical surfaces. Get some cabo. We get ours from Spruce. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sun, Nov 21, 2010 at 7:56 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > I just had gallbladder surgery and am starting on my doors. I'm not sure which is worse. > > The plans call out "cab-o-sil" for an epoxy filler. I have West Systems 410 fairing filler. Will that do, or do I need the real cab-o-McCoy? > > Thanks in advance. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320399#320399 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: cab-o-sil
Date: Nov 21, 2010
I don't know about the replacement but cabosil is used to thicken the mixture to make it less runny, like peanut butter. ----- Original Message ----- From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 8:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: cab-o-sil > > I just had gallbladder surgery and am starting on my doors. I'm not sure > which is worse. > > The plans call out "cab-o-sil" for an epoxy filler. I have West Systems > 410 fairing filler. Will that do, or do I need the real cab-o-McCoy? > > Thanks in advance. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320399#320399 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: drilling gear legs
Date: Nov 21, 2010
The gear leg is indexed with a small hole so is real hard to mess up. From: roxianmike(at)msn.com Subject: RV10-List: drilling gear legs Date: Sun=2C 21 Nov 2010 20:54:50 -0700 Getting ready to drill main gear legs through the main gear housing........ ......any trick to making sure they are aligned correctly?? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: cab-o-sil
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2010
If you use West System, use Colloidal silica....that's the equivalent in their product line. Tim On Nov 21, 2010, at 9:56 PM, "woxofswa" wrote: > > I just had gallbladder surgery and am starting on my doors. I'm not sure which is worse. > > The plans call out "cab-o-sil" for an epoxy filler. I have West Systems 410 fairing filler. Will that do, or do I need the real cab-o-McCoy? > > Thanks in advance. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320399#320399 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2010
Subject: Re: drilling gear legs
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I've started down this path too.. It looks like the top of the LG mount is already 7.9mm and so is the hole in the gear leg. The only hole that needs to be enlarged is the very bottom hole of the LG mount. One thing I found is that the powder coating closed up the hole in the LG mount. So I've passed a 7.9mm reamer through the hole to get it to the correct size. Then I also did the same thing to the LG leg, just to ensure it will allow the reamer to pass through it. All I have to do is slide the gear leg into the socket and the reamer will drop through the LG mount (top hole), through the LG leg, and should bottom-out on the bottom hole. With a little luck the hole is already close enough to size that the reamer will punch on through it. Otherwise, I'm going to have to drill it to a closer undersized hole and then punch it through with a reamer. I agree, it looks pretty hard to screw up. I don't know if you could. Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Subject: Weight & Balance datum
Date: Nov 22, 2010
I guess I can call Van's this week, but I had a couple questions I throw ou t there on W&B moment arms: a) The pilot moment arm is given as 114.58", but of course, the front seats are adjustable through a range. Where did Van's place that point? b) Likewise, the baggage area is quite large, so is the Van's-chosen m oment arm location in the center? At the (conservative) aft end of the bag gage area? I guess I can measure those myself next time I'm at the hangar, but thought I would write this while thinking about it. TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) smaller flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Contributions Down By 17%...
Dear Listers, As of today, Contributions to the Matronics List Fund Raiser are lagging behind last year at this time by roughly 17%. I have a Fund Raiser each year simply to cover my operating costs for the Lists. I *do not* accept any advertising income to support the Lists and rely solely on the Contributions of members to keep the expenses paid. I run all of my own servers and they are housed here locally, and the Internet connection is a commercial-grade, T1 connection with public address space. I also maintain a full backup system that does nightly backups of all List-related data so that in the event of a server crash or worse, all of the Lists and the many years of List archive data could be restored onto a new server in a matter of hours. All of this costs a fair amount of money, not to mention a significant amount of my personal time. I have a Fund Raiser each year to cover these costs and I ask that members that feel they receive a benefit from my investments make a modest Contribution each year to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. If you enjoy the Lists, please make a Contribution today. I also offer some incentive gifts for larger Contribution levels. At the Contribution Web Wite, you can use a credit card, Paypal, or personal check to show your support for the continuation of these services: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2010
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Fuel Pressure Sender Failure
Thought I would share this. Yesterday morning, I launched from Laurel, DE (N06) destined for Campbell Field, VA (9VG). Pre-flight, start-up, and run-up were all normal...as were take-off and climbout to 2500' during the southbound turn...including turning off the boost-pump. After levelling off, throttling back, setting the prop and mixture, I got a 'check fuel pressure' warning from my Advanced Flight Systems AF3400EM engine monitor. Quick scan showed I was still flowing 12 GPH throught the flow meter and the engine purred along just fine - with the pressure at zero PSI! That didn't make sense, so I fired up the boost-pump - now the pressure is fluctuating between 6 and 7 PSI - everything else is fine...but I've already started the turn back for HomePlate. During the remainder of the trip back I checked various throttle, prop, mixture, fuel-tank selection and boost-pump settings to see what changes things. The only change inducing event is the boost-pump which presents as fluctuating 6-7 PSI while on. Landing and rollout are uneventful as was taxi back and shutdown. Post-flight examination and testing showed proper fuel pressure (approx 32 PSI) with boost pump running and purge valve selected on the ground with engine not running. There was no fuel leakage at any of the fuel system components. Wire wiggling sohwed the single fuel pressure sender wire was intact and tightly captive on the stud - however the stud assembly wiggled a bit within the sender body. Comparing this to the oil pressure sender mounted right next to it told me something wasn't right. The pressure sender is mounted on Vans manifold on the upper part of the firewall. The manifold is mounted with a spacer to allow the combination oil-pressure light / Hobbs meter activator to clear the firewall. There is a little curve in the wire to allow for movement. I have already contacted Advanced Flight Systems for their input on obtaining a replacement sender. My questions to the list members are: Has anyone else experienced this failure mode? Is it possible that my spacer contributed to vibration-induced stress? Any input would be appreciated, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: cab-o-sil
They call out for Cabosil when bonding the inner and out door halves together in particular. It will run all over the place inside the door unless you thicken it up. One imagines that with the thickened stuff you get a bit of a fillet on the inside of the joint where you otherwise can't get to during the bonding process. Whatever happens, you can't see it after you finish. Enjoy the doors, it's was a learning journey for me. Bill "planning to work on the doors for the very last time over Christmas, i.e final paint " Watson > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor > > Myron, > > 410 is a non-structural filler. Cabosil is a thickening agent that > won't significantly reduce the strength of the resin. It allows the > resin to adhere to vertical surfaces. Get some cabo. We get ours > from Spruce. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2010
Subject: Re: Matco Nose Axle Torquing
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Follow-up on the question I posted last night: I just got off the phone with Matco and thought I'd pass along some information that is not included in their documentation. 1) The wheel halves should be torqued to 99 inches. This is more than a standard AN-4 bolt (50-70 inches). 2) Hand tight is probably too tight. You should be able to get the seals to hold position (when rotating the wheel in the correct direction) before reaching the maximum you can tighten by hand tight. 3) Be sure to lubricate the seals and mating surfaces with grease, this will help them hold position. 4) Once you put weight on the nose wheel, the friction of the bearing will help hold the seals in place too. 5) Make sure there is no grease between the seal and the nut. This friction will help hold the seal in place. Just thought I'd pass these nuggets of knowledge along to the group. I'm going let the air out of mine tonight and re-torque it to 99 inches. Then try the grease tricks to see if that works. Tim, you might want to add a few of these nuggets to your site. Phil On Sun, Nov 21, 2010 at 6:14 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > I'm getting prepared to put the plane up on the gear soon and was mounting > the nose wheel to the fork today. > > I have the replacement Matco Axle and wheel and the sweet-spot to preload > the bearings isn't real obvious on their setup. > > I tightened the nut as tight as I could get it by hand and besides having > quite a bit of drag, the bearing seal creeps along (slowly) with the wheel. > > I could tighten the nut to the next locking spot. But to do that it will > take some Channel Locks to spin the nut and I feel like that would be way > too much load on the bearings. > > Have others who have gone hand-tight and still allowed the seal to creep > along with the wheel been happy with the (Long-Term) results? Or should I > just crank this baby down? > > Phil > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: cab-o-sil
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2010
Thanks for the tips. I'll pick up the Colloidal silica and if I have some left over it sounds like it might help with my constipation. Cheers, Myron -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320539#320539 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV10 Nest 2010
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2010
My life is complete now after mention of the RV-10 nest in the RVator. Thanks Ken for the kind words, you guys are always welcome. Looking forward to the fourth and last nest next year. We've got to get Tim, Scott and some of the other celebrities to join us. Hopefully Don, Robin, John, Bill, and other past guests we missed this year will make it next year. Cheers. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320540#320540 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2010
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Sender Failure
Did you use a restrictor fitting? Your engine must have a pressure fitting with a .040=9D or smaller restrictor hole in it, this prevents the fuel pump pulsations from damagi ng the transducer and will slow the flow of fuel if a hose were to fail. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 11/22/2010 6:06:55 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, recapen(at)earthlink.net writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" Thought I would share this. Yesterday morning, I launched from Laurel, DE (N06) destined for Campbell Field, VA (9VG). Pre-flight, start-up, and run-up were all normal...as were take-off and climbout to 2500' during the southbound turn...including turning off the boost-pump. After levelling off, throttling back, setting the prop and mixture, I got a 'check fuel pressure' warning from my Advanced Flight Systems AF3400EM engine monitor. Quick scan showed I was still flowing 12 GPH throught the flow meter and the engine purred along just fine - with the pressure at ze ro PSI! That didn't make sense, so I fired up the boost-pump - now the pressure is fluctuating between 6 and 7 PSI - everything else is fine...bu t I've already started the turn back for HomePlate. During the remainder of the trip back I checked various throttle, prop, mixture, fuel-tank selection a nd boost-pump settings to see what changes things. The only change inducing event is the boost-pump which presents as fluctuating 6-7 PSI while on. Landing and rollout are uneventful as was taxi back and shutdown. Post-flight examination and testing showed proper fuel pressure (approx 32 PSI) with boost pump running and purge valve selected on the ground with engine not running. There was no fuel leakage at any of the fuel system components. Wire wiggling sohwed the single fuel pressure sender wire was intact and tightly captive on the stud - however the stud assembly wiggled a bit within the sender body. Comparing this to the oil pressure sender mounted right next to it told me something wasn't right. The pressure sen der is mounted on Vans manifold on the upper part of the firewall. The manifold is mounted with a spacer to allow the combination oil-pressure light / Hobbs meter activator to clear the firewall. There is a little curve in t he wire to allow for movement. I have already contacted Advanced Flight Systems for their input on obtaining a replacement sender. My questions to the list members are: Ha s anyone else experienced this failure mode? Is it possible that my spacer contributed to vibration-induced stress? Any input would be appreciated, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: fuel flow transducer location
Date: Nov 22, 2010
We have the EI Fuel flow gauge with the red cube transducer in our Saratoga. It works great. It is place between the mechanical fuel pump and the Servo inlet. We have no bounce readings at all very stable and once the fuel flow gauge was programmed for the proper number of pulses it is very accurate. It is located right behind the fuel pump on the back of the engine. We now have over 350 hours on it and no issues at all. On the RV-10 I am going to mount it between the servo and the Divider valve on the lower front part of the engine. I would not recommend it goes in the tunnel at all. John G. Cumins 40864 Winds (flutting ribs) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 7:18 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Has any of you ask about the long term or short term of the vibration from engine on the transducer,if you mount it on the engine and not a solid piece of the aircraft such as the firewqll or engine mount? My understanding is it shortens the life of the transducer. Just my thoughts. Patrick Thyssen --- On Sat, 11/20/10, Robin Marks wrote: From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Date: Saturday, November 20, 2010, 8:48 AM I mounted mine (not the red cube) in the tunnel with a nice long smooth lead in and out of the transducer and my readings were basically useless. Boost pump on added 3-5 gph with some bouncing. Boost pump off had 1-3 gph bouncing including low reading bouncing into the yellow that gave me low fuel flow warnings both in climb out and randomly in cruse flight. BTW this also threw off my fuel consumption/remaining fuel calculations. Not good! Furthermore the bouncing makes it impossible to balance ones fuel injectors as you cannot get accurate FF readings. Finally fed up with the issue we relocated the transducer between the fuel servo and flow divider. Since then my readings have been rock solid and all low fuel pressure warnings + bouncing is gone. If building I would not waste my time placing the transducer in the tunnel again. Sorry no photos. Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 5:26 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location I just finished mounting mine yesterday and used the EI red cube FT-60. I mounted it in the tunnel and have 6" straight line before and after the cube. I know it is between the electrical Andair pump and the mechanical pump but it is the recommendation location by Vans and I want less fuel fittings and lines in the engine compartment. I will move it if needed after the plane is flying. I will make up a new bypass fuel line while the tunnel is easily accessible just in case it needs to be moved. David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2010 2:19:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: fuel flow transducer location Plans show transducer to be in the tunnel, I've heard there are less fluctuations if it is placed after the mechanical pump and before distribution for fuel injection, is this correct? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/view &nbs========= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) e Contribution link below to find out more about ee Incentive Gifts provided www.aeroelectric.com ookstore www.buildersbooks.com ef="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com ontribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ================ = the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-L ist ================ http://forums.matronics.com ================ _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.115 wwrget="_blank" href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com> http://www.matronics.com/co_blank " href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.mal="nofollow " target="_blank" ============= <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Sender Failure
Date: Nov 22, 2010
Good thought - I installed the one that I got from Vans during engine installation - it is a 45 degree fitting with what looks like an allen plug threaded in there. I'll verify that it is intact though. ----- Original Message ----- From: RobHickman(at)aol.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 22, 2010 5:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pressure Sender Failure Did you use a restrictor fitting? Your engine must have a pressure fitting with a .040=9D or smaller restrictor hole in it, this prevents the fuel pump pulsations from damaging the transducer and will slow the flow of fuel if a hose were to fail. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 11/22/2010 6:06:55 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, recapen(at)earthlink.net writes: Thought I would share this. Yesterday morning, I launched from Laurel, DE (N06) destined for Campbell Field, VA (9VG). Pre-flight, start-up, and run-up were all normal...as were take-off and climbout to 2500' during the southbound turn...including turning off the boost-pump. After levelling off, throttling back, setting the prop and mixture, I got a 'check fuel pressure' warning from my Advanced Flight Systems AF3400EM engine monitor. Quick scan showed I was still flowing 12 GPH throught the flow meter and the engine purred along just fine - with the pressure at zero PSI! That didn't make sense, so I fired up the boost-pump - now the pressure is fluctuating between 6 and 7 PSI - everything else is fine...but I've already started the turn back for HomePlate. During the remainder of the trip back I checked various throttle, prop, mixture, fuel-tank selection and boost-pump settings to see what changes things. The only change inducing event is the boost-pump which presents as fluctuating 6-7 PSI while on. Landing and rollout are uneventful as was taxi back and shutdown. Post-flight examination and testing showed proper fuel pressure (approx 32 PSI) with boost pump running and purge valve selected on the ground with engine not running. There was no fuel leakage at any of the fuel system components. Wire wiggling sohwed the single fuel pressure sender wire was intact and tightly captive on the stud - however the stud assembly wiggled a bit within the sender body. Comparing this to the oil pressure sender mounted right next to it told me something wasn't right. The pressure sender is mounted on Vans manifold on the upper part of the firewall. The manifold is mounted with a spacer to allow the combination oil-pressure light / Hobbs meter activator to clear the firewall. There is a little curve in the wire to allow for movement. I have already contacted Advanced Flight Systems for their input on obtaining a replacement sender. My questions to the list members are: Has anyone else experienced this failure mode? Is it possible that my spacer contributed to vibration-induced stress? Any input would be ======================= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: drilling gear legs
Date: Nov 22, 2010
Thanks Date: Sun=2C 21 Nov 2010 23:51:21 -0600 Subject: Re: RV10-List: drilling gear legs From: philperry9(at)gmail.com I've started down this path too.. It looks like the top of the LG mount is already 7.9mm and so is the hole i n the gear leg. The only hole that needs to be enlarged is the very bottom hole of the LG mount. One thing I found is that the powder coating closed up the hole in the LG m ount. So I've passed a 7.9mm reamer through the hole to get it to the corr ect size. Then I also did the same thing to the LG leg=2C just to ensure i t will allow the reamer to pass through it. All I have to do is slide the gear leg into the socket and the reamer will drop through the LG mount (top hole)=2C through the LG leg=2C and should bo ttom-out on the bottom hole. With a little luck the hole is already close enough to size that the reamer will punch on through it. Otherwise=2C I'm going to have to drill it to a closer undersized hole and then punch it thr ough with a reamer. I agree=2C it looks pretty hard to screw up. I don't know if you could. Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Nose gear maintenance
Date: Nov 22, 2010
I had the nose gear jacked off the ground to change a tire and thought to check for any looseness or =9Cplay.=9D I discovered about .75=9D of vertical movement. I recalled the instructions for installing the 1/8th thick spacers under the retaining collar on the top of the gear leg. They said that an additional spacer may be required after the rubber shock absorbers wore in. The job of adding another spacer (lucky to find the extras) turned out to much easier than I would have thought; about 15 minutes and only one minor knuckle skin nick. The single additional spacer took up all of the vertical slack without making the collar difficult to re-install. Remember the collar can only be removed with the gear on the ground supporting the weight of the airplane. Dick Sipp N110DV 300 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Transition Training LODA
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2010
The Orlando FSDO issued my LODA to give transition training in my RV-10, effective today. I re-submitted the packet that I had previously submitted last January, as soon as the new guidelines were issued, in September. The process took about two months and the inspector I worked with at the FSDO was great to work with. I got things worked out with my Insurance, so all systems are go. So, if anybody wants to come to sunny central Florida for transition training this winter, I am now available. I will also consider bringing my airplane to your location. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320561#320561 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Subject: paint weight?
Date: Nov 23, 2010
Anyone got a feel for how much weight the average paint job adds to an RV-1 0? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) smaller flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Section 44 question
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 23, 2010
I've got a question about the F-1099 wing root fairing supports - in particular, F-1099G - the bottom one. The plans don't show any nutplates there and the fairing doesn't have any pre-drilled holes there, so I'm assuming that nobody has put any there, right? John -------- #40572 Painted but still in pieces N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320590#320590 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Nov 23, 2010
Subject: paint weight?
My paint job by Grady (GLO Custom) added 27 pounds. That's from a direct w eighing before and after. Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy Sent: Monday, November 22, 2010 9:44 PM Subject: RV10-List: paint weight? Anyone got a feel for how much weight the average paint job adds to an RV-1 0? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) [cid:image001.png(at)01CB8AE6.FA71BC20] ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transition Training LODA
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 23, 2010
I will keep you in mind. Most of my family lives near or in Sebring. Planning on finishing in about a year. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09 Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs Fuselage 9/21/10- Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320596#320596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Transition Training LODA
Date: Nov 23, 2010
I sent a LODA package to my local FSDO about a year ago and got a LOAD in return; in addition they specifically stated (with the LODA) that I could not endorse anyone for high performance because that training could be conducted in a certified aircraft. At that point I decided not to pursue further. As with many government sanctioned endeavors, the hassle was not worth the potential return. Perhaps the latest EAA efforts have borne fruit. ----- Original Message ----- From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 7:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transition Training LODA > > I will keep you in mind. Most of my family lives near or in Sebring. > Planning on finishing in about a year. > > -------- > Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 > Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 > Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09 > Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs > Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs > Fuselage 9/21/10- > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320596#320596 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2010
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV10 Nest 2010
I am glad you guys had fun. I would love to come to Copperstate. It is such a great time of year to head down there. The past couple of years I have had another trip planned that conflicted with it. Next year maybe we can get all four RV-10's from the Salt Lake area down there (Mike and Rick, Rene, Sean and me). Last? Why is it going to be the last? Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ________________________________ From: woxofswa <woxof(at)aol.com> Sent: Mon, November 22, 2010 1:53:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV10 Nest 2010 My life is complete now after mention of the RV-10 nest in the RVator. Thanks Ken for the kind words, you guys are always welcome. Looking forward to the fourth and last nest next year. We've got to get Tim, Scott and some of the other celebrities to join us. Hopefully Don, Robin, John, Bill, and other past guests we missed this year will make it next year. Cheers. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320540#320540 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: paint weight?
From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Date: Nov 23, 2010
With the 27.0 pound GW increase did you also get an aft movement of your pr evious CG? If so how much? John Cox From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tue 11/23/2010 6:18 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: paint weight? My paint job by Grady (GLO Custom) added 27 pounds. That's from a direct w eighing before and after. Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy Sent: Monday, November 22, 2010 9:44 PM Subject: RV10-List: paint weight? Anyone got a feel for how much weight the average paint job adds to an RV-1 0? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV10 Nest 2010
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 23, 2010
An invasion from behind the Zion curtain would be most welcome. (I did most of my ratings out of SL#2). Lastly, this year was the third and last, next year will be the fourth and last, etc. It is symbolic of the internal war of optimism vs defeatism that all experimentalists experience. :D -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320649#320649 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transition Training LODA
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Date: Nov 23, 2010
How many hours are insurance companies requiring for RV10 coverage, if any? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320680#320680 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Transition Training LODA
Date: Nov 23, 2010
depends on your time and type. My insurance requirement was one hour. people who have flown my aircraft have been required 3 and 5 and 0 respectively. The three was a 300 TT current private without IR. The five was a 300 TT current private without IR. The 0 was a CFII 4000+ TT ASEL AMEL and flying a Piper Dakota(currently a 10 builder). David N46007 360 TT 4000+ TT 2500 RG/HP CFII A&P original requirement 1 hour dual received. Currently 300+ RV10 with about 20+ hours of dual given in my RV10. The numbers vary widely. All my insureds were through EAA Falcon insurance; typically 1.5-2.5% of hull initially.covered all. Anymore than 5 on insurance is a "club" and demands commercial rates. ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 5:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transition Training LODA > > How many hours are insurance companies requiring for RV10 coverage, if > any? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320680#320680 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Section 44 question
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Nov 23, 2010
I didn't put any nutplates there. It does help hold the proper shape, as the other screws pull the fairing against the support. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320695#320695 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transition Training LODA
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 23, 2010
Hi Dave, As DLM noted, different insurance companies will vary widely. With 18,000 hours, ATP, CFII, lots of recent Bonanza experience, no accidents or incidents, my insurance still wanted 5 hours with a CFI to cover me from first flight. 1.45% of hull value is the cost of my insurance. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320702#320702 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few More Days To Make Your List Contribution...
There is less than a week left in this year's List Fund Raiser and only a few short days to grab one of the great Contribution Gifts available this year. Support is still significantly lagging behind last year at this point but hopefully it will pick up here towards the end. Please remember that it is solely the Contributions of List members that keeps the Lists up and running as there is no commercialism or advertising on the Matronics Lists and Forums. The List Contribution web site is secure, fast, and easy and you can use a credit card, Paypal, or a personal check: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I want to thank everyone that has already made a generous contribution to support the Lists! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics EMail List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 Paint Costs
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Nov 24, 2010
I was curious how much I should plan for paint costs. My plan would be for me to do most the glass work, but to hire out the prime/painting. I'm planning a 3 color scheme - white/blue/silver. Thanks -Mike Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2010
Subject: Re: paint weight?
From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com>
A rule of thumb on aircraft paint jobs is 20 to 35 pounds depending on the paint scheme, color, or colors and the dexterity of the applicator. On a metal airplane, if you cannot see the faint outline of the rivits, you have to much paint. Suggest you look at other paint jobs done by the painter you choose before signing on the bottom line. Aircraft paint such as Randolph or Stits will result in less weight added, and is more flexible than auto paints. If you want to learn how to paint, a high pressure gun will give you a lighter film of paint than a HVLP gun. Good luck. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 9:44 PM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy < tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> wrote: > Anyone got a feel for how much weight the average paint job adds to an > RV-10? > > > TDT > > > Tim Dawson-Townsend > > RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) > > tdt(at)aurora.aero > > 617-500-4812 (office) > > 617-905-4800 (mobile) > > [image: smaller flight] > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-10 Paint Costs
Date: Nov 24, 2010
Mike=2C The prices for paint really vary all over the landscape. I've seen lows aro und $6500 to upwards of $15000 depending on how ready to paint the bird is and what kind of paint you use. I chose to do it myself as it was something I have always wanted to master. I used poly urethane (basically Imron) and the paint costs alone have been about $5000. It's taken six months of part time work. Using auto type paint would be cheaper as my friend has done hi s -7 for about $2800 not including the labor to shoot it. Another had his 1 82 repainted and they charged $6700 but it looks a bit sketchy. Dan > Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs > From: n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net > Date: Wed=2C 24 Nov 2010 07:21:22 -0500 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > t>


November 11, 2010 - November 24, 2010

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-hh