RV10-Archive.digest.vol-hp
January 08, 2011 - January 18, 2011
>> from
>> you all is very much appreciated. So far, I have completed the empennage
>> (not
>> the attach portion though, since I don't have room in my garage),
>> Ailerons,
>> Flaps, 3/4th of 2 fuel tanks (yet to seal them). Copied rudder trim from
>> Tim
>> Olson's website. Passed 500 hrs (total time) mark...and in 3 years from
>> now, my
>> plane should fly. Once the analysis is done, I'll upload all the details
>> on my
>> web page (not updated in a long time). Please let me know if anyone has a
>> question for me. Thanks.
>>
>>
>> vj
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Step
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
6061-T6.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB
Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 38 Rudder pedals/interior painting.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326012#326012
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Step
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I talked to a guy at Sun n Fun who had double tanks on his RV-10. If I remeber
correctly it was John Nys. You may want to get in touch with him.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326014#326014
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Vijay,
For this type of mission, IMHO, you are probably better of building a
large fuselage tank rather than messing with the wing tanks or
structure. In 2004 I followed the exploits of an "Earthrounder" in
his Cessna 210. It was a standard 210 wtih a large fuselage mounted
fuel tank and custom pumping system.
http://www.N30EW.com/Moreplanepics.htm
Fuselage tanks add less localized stress and are easier to engineer
than adding/modyfing the wing tanks/structure.
I have added some extra plumbing in my aircraft just in case I wanted
some "additional range" I can add a fuselage mounted tank which can
later be removed.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/9XOther/RV10FuelPlumb.pdf
--
William
N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 7:46 AM, Vijay Pisini wrote:
>
> It is not appropriate if I do not mention as to why I need it. So here it
> goes...the mission is Around The World in RV-10. I shared this info with fellow
> RV-10 builders at OSH'10 Camp Scholler. Neil Colliver gave good piece of
> information (through email, though he suggested not to make a major mod such
as
> this for various reasons) and Bob Condrey encouraged/insisted on running the
> numbers first before going forward with outboard tank idea. Obviously as
> everyone on this list knows that Van's doesn't want to give any engineering info
> on this.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
I would agree.
You just cannot guarantee the stresses you will encounter as the wx cannot be guaranteed.
It's not just landing where you can get negative G. Would you purchase
a plane not knowing if it had been overstressed?
I agree with William - add a fuselage ferry tank. An easy mod. Ties down & restraint
is also easy. Gravity fed fuel. Easy to remove. On long trips easy and simple
= safe.
I had long discussions with Vans. They did not say it would not work, but gave
me sufficient reasons not to do it that way if there was any other way it could
be done.
Neil
On 9/01/2011, at 8:05 AM, William Curtis wrote:
>
> Vijay,
>
> For this type of mission, IMHO, you are probably better of building a
> large fuselage tank rather than messing with the wing tanks or
> structure. In 2004 I followed the exploits of an "Earthrounder" in
> his Cessna 210. It was a standard 210 wtih a large fuselage mounted
> fuel tank and custom pumping system.
>
> http://www.N30EW.com/Moreplanepics.htm
>
> Fuselage tanks add less localized stress and are easier to engineer
> than adding/modyfing the wing tanks/structure.
>
> I have added some extra plumbing in my aircraft just in case I wanted
> some "additional range" I can add a fuselage mounted tank which can
> later be removed.
>
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/9XOther/RV10FuelPlumb.pdf
>
> --
> William
> N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 7:46 AM, Vijay Pisini wrote:
>>
>> It is not appropriate if I do not mention as to why I need it. So here it
>> goes...the mission is Around The World in RV-10. I shared this info with fellow
>> RV-10 builders at OSH'10 Camp Scholler. Neil Colliver gave good piece of
>> information (through email, though he suggested not to make a major mod such
as
>> this for various reasons) and Bob Condrey encouraged/insisted on running the
>> numbers first before going forward with outboard tank idea. Obviously as
>> everyone on this list knows that Van's doesn't want to give any engineering
info
>> on this.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Also, I think in was in an RVator article a while back, where I
believe Ken Krueger alluded (reluctantly) that if you had to add
extra fuel capacity to an RV, add temporary fuselage tanks rather
that additional fuel in the wings. This was because additional mass
in the wings can add unpredictable negative spin characteristics to
the aircraft.
--
William
N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 2:40 PM, Neil & Sarah Colliver wrote:
>
> I would agree.
>
> You just cannot guarantee the stresses you will encounter as the wx cannot be
guaranteed. It's not just landing where you can get negative G. Would you purchase
a plane not knowing if it had been overstressed?
>
> I agree with William - add a fuselage ferry tank. An easy mod. Ties down & restraint
is also easy. Gravity fed fuel. Easy to remove. On long trips easy and
simple = safe.
>
> I had long discussions with Vans. They did not say it would not work, but gave
me sufficient reasons not to do it that way if there was any other way it could
be done.
>
> Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
I would disagree on several points relative to the fuselage tank vs wing
tank. But I'm not an engineer so much skepticism is in order.
Seems the key question is whether this is 1-off sort of ferry mission or
is this a special built, long leg machine. A fuselage tank may be in
order for a 1-off mission followed by normal ops as a normal '10. A
wing tank might make more sense if the a/c is optimized for long legs
and possibly more than a single ferry type flight. Round the world can
be thought of as either I guess, so... what's next?
Anyway, a well designed set of wing tanks can actually allow the wing to
carry a heavier total load without a bigger spar or wing structure. As
I understand it, in turbulence, the wing will fail at the point where
the bending stress exceeds the strength of the spar. If the wings are
weightless and all the weight is in the fuselage (analogous to a big
fuse tank and no wing tanks), that point will be close to the junction
of the wing and fuselage. But the total load required to break the
spar will generally be much less than if the weight were spread out
along the entire span of the wing. Such a wing loading situation will
allow you to sustain much higher gust loads before wing failure. The
wing can be effectively made stronger by spreading the total load out
along the span. I know that's how it works in gliders and the effects
of this kind of span loading on the ride is quite noticeable when ridge
running at redline.
A large fuselage tank would expose you to lower gust limits, a worse
ride in turbulence, and just less capability. A span loaded wing is
the optimal way to go for load carrying, handling gust loads, and
probably for a smoother ride.
But I'm sure there are a lot of other factors that I'm not accounting for.
On a different front, engineering a good wing tank system seems like
quite a challenge. One approach that Maule uses for their long rang
tank option (and I'm sure many other a/c do too) may have some value in
terms of simplying the plumbing. That is, they use small transfer pumps
to move fuel to the main tank. I don't think they even guage the tip
tanks. I think the pumps actually run slower than normal fuel
consumption so to use them you turn them on some time after takeoff and
let them dump into the mains for some time. The original main tank
guaging and plumbing works as-is. But it's just one approach and it is
a high wing.
Bill "thinking how great it is to have a challenging goal" Watson
On 1/8/2011 2:40 PM, Neil & Sarah Colliver wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Neil& Sarah Colliver
>
> I would agree.
>
> You just cannot guarantee the stresses you will encounter as the wx cannot be
guaranteed. It's not just landing where you can get negative G. Would you purchase
a plane not knowing if it had been overstressed?
>
> I agree with William - add a fuselage ferry tank. An easy mod. Ties down& restraint
is also easy. Gravity fed fuel. Easy to remove. On long trips easy and
simple = safe.
>
> I had long discussions with Vans. They did not say it would not work, but gave
me sufficient reasons not to do it that way if there was any other way it could
be done.
>
> Neil
>
> On 9/01/2011, at 8:05 AM, William Curtis wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: William Curtis
>>
>> Vijay,
>>
>> For this type of mission, IMHO, you are probably better of building a
>> large fuselage tank rather than messing with the wing tanks or
>> structure. In 2004 I followed the exploits of an "Earthrounder" in
>> his Cessna 210. It was a standard 210 wtih a large fuselage mounted
>> fuel tank and custom pumping system.
>>
>> http://www.N30EW.com/Moreplanepics.htm
>>
>> Fuselage tanks add less localized stress and are easier to engineer
>> than adding/modyfing the wing tanks/structure.
>>
>> I have added some extra plumbing in my aircraft just in case I wanted
>> some "additional range" I can add a fuselage mounted tank which can
>> later be removed.
>>
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/9XOther/RV10FuelPlumb.pdf
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vijay Pisini <vijaypisini(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
DLM,
Thanks for the reply. The restriction that I'll get at the time of acceptance
is something along the lines of "landing with outboard tank fuel is prohibited
except in emergency in which case appropriate inspection must be carried out
before next flight".
So...I'm interested in the issues I might face while in flight. CG problems
will be greatly reduced with extra 60 gallons (360 lb) in both outboard tanks
compared to 225-60=165 gal in ferry tank inside the plane. Another problem that
I see with ferry tank fuel is that when there is a wind gust, the joint at
fuselage and wing will be stressed the most. I can save some space in the
cockpit with outboard tanks option.
vj
----- Original Message ----- From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 7:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb,
Stepped bar, Doubler)
>
> I talked extensively with Kruger about this. 120 gallon in the wings only
>presents a problem on an overweight landing due to the possibility of negative
>load on the spar at touchdown. The fuel in flight lifts itself and imposes less
>positive bending moment on the spar. All the fuel is on the CG. we discussed two
>additional tanks outboard of the main tanks and separate from the mains so that
>for most operations the outboards would be empty and would only be used so that
>the first 60 would be transferred to the mains before landing. Obviously
>emergency considerations must be addressed such as overweight landing due to
>other reasons. failed transfer pumps, fuel vents etc. The TX guys that were
>doing this were building for Australian use (to the outback, no fuel) and one
in
>FL had designs on FL to Costa Rica. We have considered a change to a flying
>aircraft but before we do, it will get a through look by engineer friends at the
>Big Aircraft Company.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net> |
As winter has been well established this year already, I'm once again in the
mood for an engine heater. I had planned on ordering the one from Van's
when I thought to do a Google search. Here's something that came up and I'm
struggling for a reason not to go for it:
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=pd_
sim_auto_2
It appears to be thermostatically controlled and attaches to the oil sump
like the $178 version but at only $22. Any points to consider would be
appreciated.
Marcus
40286
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
This is a most valuable thread for RV-10 builders and certainly
interesting. First, I don't believe either Ken Krueger (not to be
confused with Ken Scott) will give any builder written guidance or state
such a modification as "VANS acceptable". Some will then pipe up, "This
is why we are building Experimental Kit Approved". Is this an initial
construction feature (before Airworthiness Authorization) during the
build or is this a Mod to an approved FAA kit that has flown? Extended
Range Tanks whether Temporary (removable) or permanent structural
modification are issues beyond all but a few of VANS clients. Good Luck
Kelly with the guy from the Big Company. Most know on this list I love
modifications during initial build.
If the tanks seen at SNF were indeed John Nys, then Jesse and a few
others on this list might just remember our review of his products a few
years back at OSH. Get his DER's approval so it is U.S. of A, FAA
compliant. Oh yeh, since it is not Certificated, get Joe Norris of the
EAA to give their blessing. If a builder in another country tackles the
task get your country's aviation authority approval. Consider Spin
Testing and Wing Loading Tests as well. Here on this side of the pond,
FAA regulations were altered at the behest of the DEA (Drug Enforcement
Agency) to document or invalidate approved airworthiness certificates
when someone tries to modify the mission by extending the fuel supply.
Don't get me wrong, I am all for the Colliver's effort and for others to
take this model on a globe trotting tour. I also want them to come back
and share the journey with us without a Dan Lloyd type moment. Tank
placement, fuel flow, structural considerations and metallurgy go far
beyond a takeoff and landing under normal "Utility" considerations. 3.8
g's and a 1.5x safety factor might be placing the test pilot in
unintended outcomes. The fact that this unintended load is over the
arbitrary CG point is not as relevant and it sounds.
I actually trained pilots back decades ago to make the Round the World
Balloon Crossing a reality. One effort toward that dream fell short
when the pilot (Steve Fossett) ran into a Thunderstorm in the Southern
Hemisphere. By the way he did finally make it but lost his life years
later on a routine flight out here on the west coast. Another friend
and a copilot were lost in a thunderstorm over the Med just a few months
ago in the Gordon Bennett reenactment. That was Ben Abruzzo's son
Richard. Ben was the first to cross the Atlantic in the Double Eagle II
and then died when his twin engine aircraft ran out of gas months later.
Maxie Anderson was another from the Double Eagle II flight at went west
after a flight with Don Ida over Germany. Mother Nature awaits the
daring in all of us. Plan for arriving wiser and more humble.
High wing loading during CAT (clear air turbulence) or control surface
flutter at higher TAS (a passionate topic for K. Scott) could bring
additional excitement to the pursuit.
The wingspar in the RV-10 (a design extended from an earlier smaller
VANS aircraft), its web and its extension do not lend themselves to such
a needed successful conclusion. Just because someone can do it, has
done it, and has not YET had a problem doe not assure that you could
ever get it approved following existing regulations and proper
airworthiness channels. Let us know if it is successful. Our prayers
and aspirations will be with you.
Good Luck, land safely with all passengers aboard.
John Cox
________________________________
Also, I think in was in an RVator article a while back, where I
believe Ken Krueger alluded (reluctantly) that "if you had to add
extra fuel capacity" to an RV, add temporary fuselage tanks rather
that additional fuel in the wings. This was because additional mass
in the wings can add unpredictable negative spin characteristics to
the aircraft.
--
William
N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 2:40 PM, Neil & Sarah Colliver
wrote:
>
> I would agree.
>
> You just cannot guarantee the stresses you will encounter as the wx
cannot be guaranteed. It's not just landing where you can get negative
G. Would you purchase a plane not knowing if it had been overstressed?
>
> I agree with William - add a fuselage ferry tank. An easy mod. Ties
down & restraint is also easy. Gravity fed fuel. Easy to remove. On long
trips easy and simple = safe.
>
> I had long discussions with Vans. They did not say it would not work,
but gave me sufficient reasons not to do it that way if there was any
other way it could be done.
>
> Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vijay Pisini <vijaypisini(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
Jack,
Thanks for the reply and the details.
Wayne Gillispie (rv10flyer) replied saying that it is 6061-T6. I know for most
of the aircraft structure they use the generic 6061-T6. But for an all
important structure like the wing spar, I'm wondering if it is something little
more stronger material.
I'll need to figure this out for sure and will post it to the list when I can
confirm something.
vj
----- Original Message ----
From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sat, January 8, 2011 7:22:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb,
Stepped bar, Doubler)
VJ,
Congratulations on such a plan! I don't expect you to have much trouble
with the stresses and loadings.
I would be very surprised if the spar material is not 2024-T3, or 2024-T351
for the thick web and the stepped bar. That is pretty much the standard
structural material that the entire airplane is made of. At room
temperatures, the tensile strength is 68,000 psi and the yield strength is
47,000 psi for the T351 parts. T3 is used for sheet and has slightly higher
properties (70,000 psi ultimate, 50,000 psi yield).
However, I don't know how to verify this since the anodizing process removes
the mill markings from the material. Van's gets most of their aluminum from
Kaiser Aluminum. Perhaps they can verify the alloy and grade used.
If you can verify the material and condition, please post it to the List.
Jack Phillips, PE
#40610 wings
Raleigh, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vijay Pisini <vijaypisini(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
William,
Thanks for the reply. I just sent in a reply in response to DLM's email where I
cited the CG problems with all additional fuel in ferry tanks in the cockpit.
Yes, for the past 1.5 years I've been reading all of the material available on
"earthrounders.net" site. Read 5 books by earthrounders so far including Jon
Johanson's book, Carol-Anne Garrett's two books (I met her as well).
While going overweight in couple of legs, wind gust will pose a serious stress
concentration at the fuselage and wing joint in ferry tank option compared to
outboard tank option.
My mission most likely will not be one-off round the world trip. I'll be using
long range tanks apart from that trip. According to my fuel management design,
I'll have 4 fuel selector valves in the cockpit. I'll share this information in
another email or probably I'll update my website with all this info with
diagrams etc.
vj
----- Original Message ----
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Sat, January 8, 2011 1:05:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb,
Stepped bar, Doubler)
Vijay,
For this type of mission, IMHO, you are probably better of building a
large fuselage tank rather than messing with the wing tanks or
structure. In 2004 I followed the exploits of an "Earthrounder" in
his Cessna 210. It was a standard 210 wtih a large fuselage mounted
fuel tank and custom pumping system.
http://www.N30EW.com/Moreplanepics.htm
Fuselage tanks add less localized stress and are easier to engineer
than adding/modyfing the wing tanks/structure.
I have added some extra plumbing in my aircraft just in case I wanted
some "additional range" I can add a fuselage mounted tank which can
later be removed.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/9XOther/RV10FuelPlumb.pdf
--
William
N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 7:46 AM, Vijay Pisini wrote:
>
> It is not appropriate if I do not mention as to why I need it. So here it
> goes...the mission is Around The World in RV-10. I shared this info with
>fellow
> RV-10 builders at OSH'10 Camp Scholler. Neil Colliver gave good piece of
> information (through email, though he suggested not to make a major mod such
as
> this for various reasons) and Bob Condrey encouraged/insisted on running the
> numbers first before going forward with outboard tank idea. Obviously as
> everyone on this list knows that Van's doesn't want to give any engineering
>info
> on this.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
Keep in mind that several certified aircraft have gross wt increases
approved with tip tanks of around 20 gal each tip, and Cessna 310 has
huge tip tanks as its main fuel source. The Bonanza generally gets
around 200lb gw increase with tip tanks. Also keep in mind that the two
best range extending techniques are to reduce speed and power to about
110% of best L/D, say around 130 kts IAS, and to run as lean of peak as
the engine will tolerate at the power delivering that airspeed, probably
around 40-45% power. The speed will be pretty reasonable if you are
doing that IAS up in the low to mid-teens.
On 1/8/2011 3:05 PM, John Cox wrote:
> This is a most valuable thread for RV-10 builders and certainly
> interesting. First, I don't believe either Ken Krueger (not to be
> confused with Ken Scott) will give any builder written guidance or
> state such a modification as "VANS acceptable". Some will then pipe
> up, "This is why we are building Experimental Kit Approved". Is this
> an initial construction feature (before Airworthiness Authorization)
> during the build or is this a Mod to an approved FAA kit that has
> flown? Extended Range Tanks whether Temporary (removable) or permanent
> structural modification are issues beyond all but a few of VANS
> clients. Good Luck Kelly with the guy from the Big Company. Most know
> on this list I love modifications during initial build.
> If the tanks seen at SNF were indeed John Nys, then Jesse and a few
> others on this list might just remember our review of his products a
> few years back at OSH. Get his DER's approval so it is U.S. of A, FAA
> compliant. Oh yeh, since it is not Certificated, get Joe Norris of the
> EAA to give their blessing. If a builder in another country tackles
> the task get your country's aviation authority approval. Consider Spin
> Testing and Wing Loading Tests as well. Here on this side of the pond,
> FAA regulations were altered at the behest of the DEA (Drug
> Enforcement Agency) to document or invalidate approved airworthiness
> certificates when someone tries to modify the mission by extending the
> fuel supply. Don't get me wrong, I am all for the Colliver's effort
> and for others to take this model on a globe trotting tour. I also
> want them to come back and share the journey with us without a Dan
> Lloyd type moment. Tank placement, fuel flow, structural
> considerations and metallurgy go far beyond a takeoff and landing
> under normal "Utility" considerations. 3.8 g's and a 1.5x safety
> factor might be placing the test pilot in unintended outcomes. The
> fact that this unintended load is over the arbitrary CG point is not
> as relevant and it sounds.
> I actually trained pilots back decades ago to make the Round the World
> Balloon Crossing a reality. One effort toward that dream fell short
> when the pilot (Steve Fossett) ran into a Thunderstorm in the Southern
> Hemisphere. By the way he did finally make it but lost his life years
> later on a routine flight out here on the west coast. Another friend
> and a copilot were lost in a thunderstorm over the Med just a few
> months ago in the Gordon Bennett reenactment. That was Ben Abruzzo's
> son Richard. Ben was the first to cross the Atlantic in the Double
> Eagle II and then died when his twin engine aircraft ran out of gas
> months later. Maxie Anderson was another from the Double Eagle II
> flight at went west after a flight with Don Ida over Germany. Mother
> Nature awaits the daring in all of us. Plan for arriving wiser and
> more humble.
> High wing loading during CAT (clear air turbulence) or control surface
> flutter at higher TAS (a passionate topic for K. Scott) could bring
> additional excitement to the pursuit.
> The wingspar in the RV-10 (a design extended from an earlier smaller
> VANS aircraft), its web and its extension do not lend themselves to
> such a needed successful conclusion. Just because someone can do it,
> has done it, and has not YET had a problem doe not assure that you
> could ever get it approved following existing regulations and proper
> airworthiness channels. Let us know if it is successful. Our prayers
> and aspirations will be with you.
> Good Luck, land safely with all passengers aboard.
> John Cox
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Also, I think in was in an RVator article a while back, where I
> believe Ken Krueger alluded (reluctantly) that if you had to add
> extra fuel capacity to an RV, add temporary fuselage tanks rather
> that additional fuel in the wings. This was because additional mass
> in the wings can add unpredictable negative spin characteristics to
> the aircraft.
>
> --
> William
> N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 2:40 PM, Neil & Sarah Colliver
> wrote:
> >
> > I would agree.
> >
> > You just cannot guarantee the stresses you will encounter as the wx
> cannot be guaranteed. It's not just landing where you can get negative
> G. Would you purchase a plane not knowing if it had been overstressed?
> >
> > I agree with William - add a fuselage ferry tank. An easy mod. Ties
> down & restraint is also easy. Gravity fed fuel. Easy to remove. On
> long trips easy and simple = safe.
> >
> > I had long discussions with Vans. They did not say it would not
> work, but gave me sufficient reasons not to do it that way if there
> was any other way it could be done.
> >
> > p; - The RV10-List Email Forum
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic-->
> http://forums.matronics.com
> p; - List Contribution bsp; -Matt Dralle, List
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c================
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
let there be no mistake. Vans did not approve extended range tanks. I
discussed the areas of concern with an engineer there. And yes the big
airplane conpany has a lot of engineers with a lot of expertise. A step of
this nature truly is experimental and should be approached with a lot of
caution. That said a lot of Pipers and Cessnas load ferry tanks and go east
and west over the pond. Try
http://www.alexisparkinn.com/nwpilot's_tranatlantic_flight.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vijay Pisini" <vijaypisini(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need the type of material for front wing spar
(Sparweb, Stepped bar, Doubler)
>
> DLM,
>
> Thanks for the reply. The restriction that I'll get at the time of
> acceptance
> is something along the lines of "landing with outboard tank fuel is
> prohibited
> except in emergency in which case appropriate inspection must be carried
> out
> before next flight".
>
> So...I'm interested in the issues I might face while in flight. CG
> problems
> will be greatly reduced with extra 60 gallons (360 lb) in both outboard
> tanks
> compared to 225-60=165 gal in ferry tank inside the plane. Another problem
> that
> I see with ferry tank fuel is that when there is a wind gust, the joint at
> fuselage and wing will be stressed the most. I can save some space in the
> cockpit with outboard tanks option.
>
>
> vj
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 7:54 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need the type of material for front wing spar
> (Sparweb,
> Stepped bar, Doubler)
>
>
>>
>> I talked extensively with Kruger about this. 120 gallon in the wings only
>>presents a problem on an overweight landing due to the possibility of
>>negative
>>load on the spar at touchdown. The fuel in flight lifts itself and imposes
>>less
>>positive bending moment on the spar. All the fuel is on the CG. we
>>discussed two
>>additional tanks outboard of the main tanks and separate from the mains so
>>that
>>for most operations the outboards would be empty and would only be used so
>>that
>>the first 60 would be transferred to the mains before landing. Obviously
>>emergency considerations must be addressed such as overweight landing due
>>to
>>other reasons. failed transfer pumps, fuel vents etc. The TX guys that
>>were
>>doing this were building for Australian use (to the outback, no fuel) and
>>one in
>>FL had designs on FL to Costa Rica. We have considered a change to a
>>flying
>>aircraft but before we do, it will get a through look by engineer friends
>>at the
>>Big Aircraft Company.
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vijay Pisini <vijaypisini(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
Neil,
Thanks for the reply and opinion. I'm not too much worried about someone buying
my plane sometime later (if at all). The risks of concentrated stresses are
there in both the options (options being all additional fuel in ferry tanks in
the cockpit versus some fuel in the outboard tanks). Unexpected wind gust is a
serious issue to me while being overweight with cockpit ferry tank fuel. If I
engineer the outboard tank correctly, that will be the way to go in my opinion.
I have agood fuel flow management design with (60 original + 60 outboard + 20
right seat ferry tank + 85 rear seat ferry tank).
Also, I'm not too much worried about landing the plane with outboard tank fuel
because that will only be in emergency only which I can deal with once I'm
safely on ground.
Modification to fit the outboard tanks in my opinion is not an issue though it
is not all that easy...and I'm prepared for it. There are around 20 RV-X's with
outboard tanks. Some are non removable tanks and some are removable tanks.
I'll be making them as removable (for maintenance when needed) tanks.
vj
----- Original Message ----
From: Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Sat, January 8, 2011 1:40:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb,
Stepped bar, Doubler)
I would agree.
You just cannot guarantee the stresses you will encounter as the wx cannot be
guaranteed. It's not just landing where you can get negative G. Would you
purchase a plane not knowing if it had been overstressed?
I agree with William - add a fuselage ferry tank. An easy mod. Ties down &
restraint is also easy. Gravity fed fuel. Easy to remove. On long trips easy and
simple = safe.
I had long discussions with Vans. They did not say it would not work, but gave
me sufficient reasons not to do it that way if there was any other way it could
be done.
Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine heater |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I don't think you will find a 4"x5" spot on your sump. I had a hard time fitting
on the 2 Reiff pads and they were like 1.5"x3 or so each.. The Reiff also
has the cylinder bands, which is really nice...
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 8, 2011, at 5:02 PM, "Marcus Cooper" wrote:
>
> As winter has been well established this year already, I'm once again in the
> mood for an engine heater. I had planned on ordering the one from Van's
> when I thought to do a Google search. Here's something that came up and I'm
> struggling for a reason not to go for it:
> http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=pd_
> sim_auto_2
>
> It appears to be thermostatically controlled and attaches to the oil sump
> like the $178 version but at only $22. Any points to consider would be
> appreciated.
>
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vijay Pisini <vijaypisini(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
Bill,
Thanks for the input. Yes, this will most likely willNOT be a one-off round
the world trip. There will be more trips where I'll be using the long range
tanks and in those cases outboard wing tanks are best.
I replied to some of the mails detailing as to why I prefer some fuel in the
outboard wing tanks versus all of the fuel in ferry tanks at the back.
Wing tank positives:
Less CG problems
Less wing gust problems (stress concentration on wing and fuselage joint) on
overweight legs
Can use them for more of the long range trips
More space inside the plane
Ferry tank positives:
Less modification issues
Not changing the original kit design (for resale problems)...hence less worries
as some put it
Less detrimental effect when it gets into a spin
My fuel management design in words:
4 fuel valve selectors (left, original center, right and aft). Left and Right
valves (like the valve in Piper Arrow) are going to be similar to each other
with the pointer either on outboard tank or on inboard tank depending on the
need. Outboard tank fuel flow plumbing will be similar (in concept) to original
inboard tank up until the side valves (left, right). Original center fuel valve
will have the options as left, right and off. The aft fuel valve will will have
selections as tank1 and tank2 (for right seat and rear seat tanks). I intend to
keep all the fuel selectors permanently in the plane.
Ferry tank fuel will be drained (by gravity and also there will be a pump for
each tank...I'll be using Turtlepac tanks as ferry tanks) into the left main
tank (additional plumbing will be done for this)...no guage for the ferry fuel
tanks. There will be guages (fuel senders) for outboard tanks. I will have to
deal with engine coughing only twice for the two outboard tanks when I run them
dry. That problem will not be there for ferry tanks as the fuel drains into the
left main tank. After take off on left inboard tank, I'll be using the outboard
tanks first for 5-6 hrs of cruise flight by pointing the left and right valves
to outboard tanks and managing the original center valve as usual (left,
right). Once the outboard tanks are used up, I'll use both the ferry tanks
through the left inboard tank. For about 7-8 hrs, I just have to open and close
the ferry tanks until they are drained off completely. After this, I'll be on
the left and right inboard tanks with regular fuel selection until landing.
I decided against draining the outboard fuel tanks into the corresponding
inboard fuel tanks because I'll have to deal with the fuel pump and I don't want
to risk the failure of the fuel pump in this option. I want the plumbing to be
simple in concept as well. This (more fuel valves) was done by couple of people
already and it is simple in operation and is proven. I got to be careful while
draining the fuel from ferry tanks into the left inboard tank...not to overfill
the left inboard tank.
I'm prepared for the extra work...!
Vijay
----- Original Message ----
From: Bill Watson Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Sent: Sat, January 8, 2011 3:04:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb,
Stepped bar, Doubler)
I would disagree on several points relative to the fuselage tank vs wing tank.
But I'm not an engineer so much skepticism is in order.
Seems the key question is whether this is 1-off sort of ferry mission or is this
a special built, long leg machine. A fuselage tank may be in order for a 1-off
mission followed by normal ops as a normal '10. A wing tank might make more
sense if the a/c is optimized for long legs and possibly more than a single
ferry type flight. Round the world can be thought of as either I guess, so...
what's next?
Anyway, a well designed set of wing tanks can actually allow the wing to carry
a
heavier total load without a bigger spar or wing structure. As I understand it,
in turbulence, the wing will fail at the point where the bending stress exceeds
the strength of the spar. If the wings are weightless and all the weight is in
the fuselage (analogous to a big fuse tank and no wing tanks), that point will
be close to the junction of the wing and fuselage. But the total load required
to break the spar will generally be much less than if the weight were spread
out along the entire span of the wing. Such a wing loading situation will allow
you to sustain much higher gust loads before wing failure. The wing can be
effectively made stronger by spreading the total load out along the span. I
know that's how it works in gliders and the effects of this kind of span
loading on the ride is quite noticeable when ridge running at redline.
A large fuselage tank would expose you to lower gust limits, a worse ride in
turbulence, and just less capability. A span loaded wing is the optimal way to
go for load carrying, handling gust loads, and probably for a smoother ride.
But I'm sure there are a lot of other factors that I'm not accounting for.
On a different front, engineering a good wing tank system seems like quite a
challenge. One approach that Maule uses for their long rang tank option (and
I'm sure many other a/c do too) may have some value in terms of simplying the
plumbing. That is, they use small transfer pumps to move fuel to the main
tank. I don't think they even guage the tip tanks. I think the pumps actually
run slower than normal fuel consumption so to use them you turn them on some
time after takeoff and let them dump into the mains for some time. The original
main tank guaging and plumbing works as-is. But it's just one approach and it
is a high wing.
Bill "thinking how great it is to have a challenging goal" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
Vijay,
> Bill,
>
> ...
>
> Ferry tank positives:
> Less detrimental effect when it gets into a spin
I always find that interesting at a time when we don't even train for
spin recovery, just avoidance. Obviously there's no plan to spin it.
> I'm prepared for the extra work...!
>
Indeed it seems you are. Exciting project! Maybe I missed it but you
say you have a web site? or will? Will be following in any case.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
| From: | William Curtis <wwc4(at)njit.edu> |
Vijay,
Remember the existing wing structure (as with most non fighter wing
designs) is designed to carry up to gross weight primarily in FUSELAGE
load, not load out in the wing. This is why the wing structure is
massive at the root and gets thinner as it goes outboard. All things
being equal, you would need to beef up the outboard wing structure to
carry to SAME amount of additional fuel in the wings as you would in
the fuselage. Aircraft designed from the ground up with tip tanks
take this into consideration. Aircraft that get gross weight increase
with additional tip tanks also include additional wing area.
My point is, to carry 500 pounds of fuel in the rear seat positions
requires NO modifications as this is no different that carrying two
large rear seat passengers. Carrying an extra 500 pounds in the wings
however is definitely different than what the structure was designed
forwhich is why you are seeking to modify it. With fuselage tanks,
no wing modifications are required, with wing tanks you are definitely
putting more load in places not designed for it with the standard
wings.
Then you have to ask yourself, If Im not using the rear seats for
fuel in these extended range trips, what do I use that space for?
Would I really want to carry passengers or cargo in the fuselage with
the additional fuel out in the wing? How much over gross do I want to
go?
If you cant use the fuselage space for anything else;
If the wing tanks require re-engineering of the wing while fuselage
tanks do not; With these points the solution for some is obvious.
Lastly, I think the longest (time) Ive flown in a piston single was 5
hours 20 minutes. I was operating at about 145 kts at about 8.5
gal/hour and landed with about 12 gallons remaining from a 60 gallon
capacity. Im not sure if you have flown long legs in piston singles
but unless you were doing it for a particular purpose (like an
Earthrounder) after doing it a few times, you will NOT make a regular
habit of it. You will want to land and take a break even if you do
not need fuel and even if you have the best autopilot in the world.
--
William
N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb, |
Stepped bar, Doubler)
Hi VJ
whoa!
That makes 225 gallons x 6lbs / gal = 1350lbs fuel.
Add in the pilot, probably oxygen, a proper life raft, some tools, a couple of
spares, some oil, a first aid kit, HF radio, an immersion suit for N Atlantic,
and may be a change of cloths, maps, computer, water for in flight, water for
emergency ditching, food likewise.
Unless you fill the remainder of the aircraft with hydrogen / helium, you are going
to be way way weigh over gross.
And there is no way you are ever going to need that much fuel if you run LOP. You
only need 2200nm range + reserve. Pick the weather.
Please do as William & Vans suggested - a large ferry tank in co-pilot seat / rear
seats. Do the C of G calcs properly.
Neil
On 9/01/2011, at 11:35 AM, Vijay Pisini wrote:
>
> Neil,
>
> Thanks for the reply and opinion. I'm not too much worried about someone buying
> my plane sometime later (if at all). The risks of concentrated stresses are
> there in both the options (options being all additional fuel in ferry tanks in
> the cockpit versus some fuel in the outboard tanks). Unexpected wind gust is
a
> serious issue to me while being overweight with cockpit ferry tank fuel. If
I
> engineer the outboard tank correctly, that will be the way to go in my opinion.
> I have a good fuel flow management design with (60 original + 60 outboard + 20
> right seat ferry tank + 85 rear seat ferry tank).
>
> Also, I'm not too much worried about landing the plane with outboard tank fuel
> because that will only be in emergency only which I can deal with once I'm
> safely on ground.
>
> Modification to fit the outboard tanks in my opinion is not an issue though it
> is not all that easy...and I'm prepared for it. There are around 20 RV-X's with
> outboard tanks. Some are non removable tanks and some are removable tanks.
> I'll be making them as removable (for maintenance when needed) tanks.
>
>
> vj
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sat, January 8, 2011 1:40:47 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need the type of material for front wing spar (Sparweb,
> Stepped bar, Doubler)
>
>
> I would agree.
>
> You just cannot guarantee the stresses you will encounter as the wx cannot be
> guaranteed. It's not just landing where you can get negative G. Would you
> purchase a plane not knowing if it had been overstressed?
>
> I agree with William - add a fuselage ferry tank. An easy mod. Ties down &
> restraint is also easy. Gravity fed fuel. Easy to remove. On long trips easy
and
> simple = safe.
>
> I had long discussions with Vans. They did not say it would not work, but gave
> me sufficient reasons not to do it that way if there was any other way it could
> be done.
>
> Neil
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Marcus
I live where it gets quite nippy in winter - I have flow in in -30c weather.
About 10 years ago I installed on of these on my Piper Cherokee.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/symtecpreheat.php
I give this a 5 star rating as it does a great job. I like the oil sump
heater as it heats the old and then the engine. When my EGT / CHT temps are
up, it means the who engine, including the core is heated. Heating the
cylinders first seems counter intuitive but may be wrong.
Any way, cheaper is not necessarily better. The nice thin about these
heaters is that they are elements in solid al epoxied to the sump. Not
silicone pads that might age.
Anyways, this just my opinion...
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: January-08-11 3:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine heater
As winter has been well established this year already, I'm once again in the
mood for an engine heater. I had planned on ordering the one from Van's
when I thought to do a Google search. Here's something that came up and I'm
struggling for a reason not to go for it:
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=pd_
sim_auto_2
It appears to be thermostatically controlled and attaches to the oil sump
like the $178 version but at only $22. Any points to consider would be
appreciated.
Marcus
40286
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine heater |
Marcus, looks very similar to the Reiff oil pan heater on our 360 Lycoming.
- =0AOnly difference is ours is only 100W.- I say go for it.=0A=0ARick
=0A#40956=0ASoutghampton, Ont=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________________________
_=0AFrom: Marcus Cooper <coop85(at)verizon.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASent: Sat, January 8, 2011 5:02:49 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Engine heate
>=0A=0AAs winter has been well established this year already, I'm once agai
n in the=0Amood for an engine heater.- I had planned on ordering the one
from Van's=0Awhen I thought to do a Google search.- Here's something that
came up and I'm=0Astruggling for a reason not to go for it:=0Ahttp://www.a
mazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=pd_=0Asim_au
to_2=0A=0AIt appears to be thermostatically controlled and attaches to the
oil sump=0Alike the $178 version but at only $22.- Any points to consider
-========================
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admi
======0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Hole in fuselage under wing |
How have others closed up the small opening or hole on each side of the fuselage,
just below and aft of the leading edge of the wing?
Thanks.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
Gas in the wings, getting ready to light the fire!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hole in fuselage under wing |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I just filled mine with clear silicone and then shaved it flush. It's good to
seal it against carbon monoxide, but how you seal it probably isn't a big deal.
Fiberglass and epoxy and fairing filler would work fine pre-paint. I did mine
after painting. It's not really too easily noticed.
Tim
On Jan 9, 2011, at 12:08 AM, David Leikam wrote:
>
> How have others closed up the small opening or hole on each side of the fuselage,
just below and aft of the leading edge of the wing?
> Thanks.
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
> Gas in the wings, getting ready to light the fire!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hole in fuselage under wing |
I prosealed an aluminum piece over the hole.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "David Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 10:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hole in fuselage under wing
>
> How have others closed up the small opening or hole on each side of the
> fuselage, just below and aft of the leading edge of the wing?
> Thanks.
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
> Gas in the wings, getting ready to light the fire!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like green-yellow-red settings
for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540 in a RV-10. Just looking fir
something to start with. Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hole in fuselage under wing |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
I just used proseal before painting. Paint sticks to proseal.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326133#326133
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
oops sorry! wrong numbers!
Look at the engine manual or lycoming's site.. I saw it somewhere just dont
recall where.
-----Original Message-----
From: Pascal
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
Vans has this on their site:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/speeds.pdf
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kraus
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 10:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like green-yellow-red
settings for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540 in a RV-10. Just
looking fir something to start with. Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
Vans has this on their site:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/speeds.pdf
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kraus
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 10:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like green-yellow-red
settings for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540 in a RV-10. Just
looking fir something to start with. Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Here are some conservative numbers:
CHT, 380 F yellow, 400 red, 200-380 green
Oil pressure, 25-50 yellow, 55-75 green,75-90 yellow, above that red
Oil temp 160-220 green 220-240 yellow 240 red.
Fuel pressure 20-28 green, below 18 and above 28 red,
Fuel flow, above 27 or so red.
That should get you started. Keep in mind that Lycoming operator's handbook
red lines are NOT conservative...like CHT redline 475-500 in climb and 425
in cruise...much too hot.
On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 11:18 AM, Michael Kraus
wrote:
> >
>
> Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like green-yellow-red
> settings for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540 in a RV-10. Just
> looking fir something to start with. Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy - Updated pricing |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I just got the following quotes:
Aircrafthoses.com
Our kit contains 7 hoses. Your price in orange pull over firesleeve would be $504.76.
Your price for brown molded firesleeve would be $619.53.
TSFLightlines.com
Stainless braided Teflon hose, Stainless hose ends, Fire sleeved, Pressure Tested
to 3000 psi - $389
Van's - $379.30
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326159#326159
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hole in fuselage under wing |
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
Any idea why the hole is there?
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Jan 9, 2011, at 10:40 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I just filled mine with clear silicone and then shaved it flush. It's good to
seal it against carbon monoxide, but how you seal it probably isn't a big deal.
Fiberglass and epoxy and fairing filler would work fine pre-paint. I did
mine after painting. It's not really too easily noticed.
> Tim
>
>
>
> On Jan 9, 2011, at 12:08 AM, David Leikam wrote:
>
>>
>> How have others closed up the small opening or hole on each side of the fuselage,
just below and aft of the leading edge of the wing?
>> Thanks.
>>
>> David Leikam
>> RV10
>> N89DA
>> Gas in the wings, getting ready to light the fire!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FWF kit recieved on Friday... |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Eight days from my call to Dale at Van's. After receiving it I am very happy with
the quality. I spent about 5 min on the phone with Dale, 20 min running check
to post office for certified mail. I left off 3 control cables, purchased longer
RV-7 throttle cable from Van's. Purchased longer prop and mixture cables
from ACS, another 5 min. Those two cables are due the beginning of Feb.
The only thing I could see you might want to improve on would be the integral firesleeved
hoses. Just two fuel hoses have slip on fire sleeve from Van's. My
thinking was that probably less than 1% of the fatal crashes are caused from fire(just
a guess). I will install an engine compartment fire detection system
using fusible links for less than $50. I also have Van's $50 brass fuel selector.
At that price I even bought a spare to keep in my tool bag with all four fittings
installed just in case I get a leak when I am traveling far from home.
With fittings installed I could change it out in 15 min.
Very nice exhaust system from Larry Vetterman and my favorite was the MT prop governor
made in Germany. I spent 3 yrs there in the Army.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB
Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 38 Rudder pedals/interior painting.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326185#326185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF kit recieved on Friday... |
I don't know if you have noted emails to the list in the past that the
MT governor that Van's supplies is for a narrow deck engine. If you are
going to use a wide deck engine you should have MT convert it to the
correct gear ratio for wide deck engines, it is different from the
narrow deck units.
Kelly
fiberglass hell
On 1/9/2011 8:17 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"
>
> Eight days from my call to Dale at Van's. After receiving it I am very happy
with the quality.
>
> Very nice exhaust system from Larry Vetterman and my favorite was the MT prop
governor made in Germany. I spent 3 yrs there in the Army.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB
> Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 38 Rudder pedals/interior painting.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF kit recieved on Friday... |
Narrow deck- rebuilt or used engine
Wide deck- New engines
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF kit recieved on Friday...
I don't know if you have noted emails to the list in the past that the
MT governor that Van's supplies is for a narrow deck engine. If you are
going to use a wide deck engine you should have MT convert it to the
correct gear ratio for wide deck engines, it is different from the
narrow deck units.
Kelly
fiberglass hell
On 1/9/2011 8:17 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"
>
> Eight days from my call to Dale at Van's. After receiving it I am very
> happy with the quality.
>
> Very nice exhaust system from Larry Vetterman and my favorite was the MT
> prop governor made in Germany. I spent 3 yrs there in the Army.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB
> Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 38 Rudder pedals/interior painting.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF kit recieved on Friday... |
Yes, you won't get a new narrow deck engine, which is why it makes no
sense that the only governor Van's sells is for a narrow deck engine.
You can get new or overhauled wide deck engines as well. Just be sure
you get governor with correct gear ratio for the engine you plan on using.
On 1/9/2011 9:22 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> Narrow deck- rebuilt or used engine
> Wide deck- New engines
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 7:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF kit recieved on Friday...
>
>
> I don't know if you have noted emails to the list in the past that the
> MT governor that Van's supplies is for a narrow deck engine. If you are
> going to use a wide deck engine you should have MT convert it to the
> correct gear ratio for wide deck engines, it is different from the
> narrow deck units.
> Kelly
> fiberglass hell
>
> On 1/9/2011 8:17 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"
>>
>> Eight days from my call to Dale at Van's. After receiving it I am
>> very happy with the quality.
>>
>> Very nice exhaust system from Larry Vetterman and my favorite was the
>> MT prop governor made in Germany. I spent 3 yrs there in the Army.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
>> Bldr# 40983 SB
>> Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 38 Rudder pedals/interior painting.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine heater |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I put the Reiff - Vans pads on my IO540 this fall. Gets the oil to 60 degrees overnight
which is fine for start-up (after a 10 degree night). The Vans pads are
2x50W. I notice that the one that you are looking at is 150W - Overkill? I
also note that the budget pad has no ground plug. I figure that with a $40K engine
what the heck is $170 for a tried and true certified product. I also figure
that with the Reiff product that there is a some liability trail if the product
is defective.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326203#326203
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Anderson" <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
| Subject: | Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
I just read Sonja Englert=92s book last night claiming that for a good
engine
break-in, the CHT needs to be above 400=B0F. No specifics or
justification is
given, but combined with Kelly=92s numbers below that would put you in
the red
for your first few hours of flight which would not seem such a good
idea.
Just a head=92s up.
Gordon Anderson
#41015 tailcone priming
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: 09 January 2011 21:58
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
Here are some conservative numbers:
CHT, 380 F yellow, 400 red, 200-380 green
Oil pressure, 25-50 yellow, 55-75 green,75-90 yellow, above that red
Oil temp 160-220 green 220-240 yellow 240 red.
Fuel pressure 20-28 green, below 18 and above 28 red,
Fuel flow, above 27 or so red.
That should get you started. Keep in mind that Lycoming operator's
handbook
red lines are NOT conservative...like CHT redline 475-500 in climb and
425
in cruise...much too hot.
On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 11:18 AM, Michael Kraus
wrote:
Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like
green-yellow-red
settings for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540 in a RV-10. Just
looking fir something to start with. Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
My experience with a new certified engine from Vans. Purchased in 4th
quarter 2004 to buy before the $6k increase. ; first run 1st quarter
2008. Using GRT EIS, the initial 25 hour testing found that the CHTs on
takeoff occasionally would exceed 420 but would soon recede to 380-400
after increased speed to 120 KIAS. First 5 hours I would see CHTs in low
400s on take off and with minor leaning the temps would go to low 400s.
Much flying was cross country as my DAR gave me a run of about 90 miles
as longest leg. Around 10 hours oil composition reduced and temps also.
Now at 379 hours, CHTs all below 360 which is top of the green for my
monitor setting. Typical LOP is 55-65%, fuel flow in the 9-12 range ,
CHTs high 200s/low 300s. EGTs highest below 1420 where top of green is
set for EGTs. Oil consumption is a quart for about every 15 hours. I
change oil every 35 hours, filter every other oil change and consume
about one quart between changes. I generally run LOP, low power
settings. This aircraft will climb at 65% at 800-1000 fpm so when asked
"how fast does it go?" My answer is "I don't know I have not been there
yet.." When the fuel flow indicates 24 gph at full throttle takeoff, one
starts to reduce power soon after takeoff. Be advised we reduced and
then removed the air dams on cylinders 1 and 2; but also keep in mind
that I live and fly in Phoenix. If I lived in IL, near my original home,
my experience would be different.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gordon Anderson
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 11:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
I just read Sonja Englert's book last night claiming that for a good
engine break-in, the CHT needs to be above 400=B0F. No specifics or
justification is given, but combined with Kelly's numbers below that
would put you in the red for your first few hours of flight which would
not seem such a good idea.
Just a head's up.
Gordon Anderson
#41015 tailcone priming
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: 09 January 2011 21:58
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
Here are some conservative numbers:
CHT, 380 F yellow, 400 red, 200-380 green
Oil pressure, 25-50 yellow, 55-75 green,75-90 yellow, above that red
Oil temp 160-220 green 220-240 yellow 240 red.
Fuel pressure 20-28 green, below 18 and above 28 red,
Fuel flow, above 27 or so red.
That should get you started. Keep in mind that Lycoming operator's
handbook red lines are NOT conservative...like CHT redline 475-500 in
climb and 425 in cruise...much too hot.
On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 11:18 AM, Michael Kraus
wrote:
Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like
green-yellow-red settings for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540
in a RV-10. Just looking fir something to start with. Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF kit recieved on Friday... |
For about $500 you can also install a fire suppression system. Stroud Fire
Safety OKC
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 8:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FWF kit recieved on Friday...
>
> Eight days from my call to Dale at Van's. After receiving it I am very
> happy with the quality. I spent about 5 min on the phone with Dale, 20 min
> running check to post office for certified mail. I left off 3 control
> cables, purchased longer RV-7 throttle cable from Van's. Purchased longer
> prop and mixture cables from ACS, another 5 min. Those two cables are due
> the beginning of Feb.
>
> The only thing I could see you might want to improve on would be the
> integral firesleeved hoses. Just two fuel hoses have slip on fire sleeve
> from Van's. My thinking was that probably less than 1% of the fatal
> crashes are caused from fire(just a guess). I will install an engine
> compartment fire detection system using fusible links for less than $50. I
> also have Van's $50 brass fuel selector. At that price I even bought a
> spare to keep in my tool bag with all four fittings installed just in case
> I get a leak when I am traveling far from home. With fittings installed I
> could change it out in 15 min.
>
> Very nice exhaust system from Larry Vetterman and my favorite was the MT
> prop governor made in Germany. I spent 3 yrs there in the Army.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB
> Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 38 Rudder pedals/interior painting.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326185#326185
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Gabrielson <m.gabrielson(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine heater |
On our Dakota which had the O-540, we installed the Reiff Turbo XP. I think
that was their highest wattage offering at the time (2004?). It had 100W on
each cylinder and 200W on the oil sump. Pretty rapid warm up and if left on it
held the oil at nearly 90dF according to the engine monitor w/ oil temp probe.
That was hangared but without cowl plugs in. Probably overkill but the engine
went beyond TBO in a flying club setting in the middle-midwest.
Matt Gabrielson
________________________________
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Sun, January 9, 2011 11:56:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Engine heater
I put the Reiff - Vans pads on my IO540 this fall. Gets the oil to 60 degrees
overnight which is fine for start-up (after a 10 degree night). The Vans pads
are 2x50W. I notice that the one that you are looking at is 150W - Overkill? I
also note that the budget pad has no ground plug. I figure that with a $40K
engine what the heck is $170 for a tried and true certified product. I also
figure that with the Reiff product that there is a some liability trail if the
product is defective.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326203#326203
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
It is a question of whether you want to set alarms for what you want in
the long run or if you are worried about having a few brief alarms on
first few flights while the engine is breaking in.
Myself, if the engine starts to go above 400, I want to be watching it
like a hawk and taking action to limit the temperature increase, like
nosing over for more airspeed, richening mixture, if not full rich, and
possibly reducing power setting. 425 would be my absolute do not exceed
red line, but that is why I want yellow and red line alarms below that
value, so I can take action to prevent exceeding my real limit.
John Deakin's Pelican's Perch articles on Avweb give some good
background on temps and metallurgy to consider CHT limits lower than
Lycoming's official numbers.
As for a good break-in, temperature is a secondary consequence of what
is needed for good ring seating. That is high pressure against the rings
from high power settings. Temperatures limit how high a power you can
use. Some advocate achieving a higher power setting by going very lean
of peak, say 80 degrees, and using 80-85% power. The extreme leaness
limits the CHT and gives a broader pressure peak during combustion,
where rich of peak the engine runs hotter and each combustion peak is
very sharp and brief.
How you do your break-in is going to be based more on warranty
considerations and instructions from your engine builder than anything
else. If you choose to do other than those instructions, you are on your
own if something bad happens.
On 1/9/2011 11:22 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
>
> I just read Sonja Englerts book last night claiming that for a good
> engine break-in, the CHT needs to be above 400F. No specifics or
> justification is given, but combined with Kellys numbers below that
> would put you in the red for your first few hours of flight which
> would not seem such a good idea.
>
> Just a heads up.
>
> Gordon Anderson
>
> #41015 tailcone priming
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
> McMullen
> *Sent:* 09 January 2011 21:58
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
>
> Here are some conservative numbers:
> CHT, 380 F yellow, 400 red, 200-380 green
> Oil pressure, 25-50 yellow, 55-75 green,75-90 yellow, above that red
> Oil temp 160-220 green 220-240 yellow 240 red.
> Fuel pressure 20-28 green, below 18 and above 28 red,
> Fuel flow, above 27 or so red.
> That should get you started. Keep in mind that Lycoming operator's
> handbook red lines are NOT conservative...like CHT redline 475-500 in
> climb and 425 in cruise...much too hot.
>
> On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 11:18 AM, Michael Kraus
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like
> green-yellow-red settings for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540
> in a RV-10. Just looking fir something to start with. Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
My CHTts are set as 200-360 green, 361-420 yellow 421-red
EGTs are set as 1000-1420 green, 1420- yellow
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
>
> It is a question of whether you want to set alarms for what you want in
> the long run or if you are worried about having a few brief alarms on
> first few flights while the engine is breaking in.
> Myself, if the engine starts to go above 400, I want to be watching it
> like a hawk and taking action to limit the temperature increase, like
> nosing over for more airspeed, richening mixture, if not full rich, and
> possibly reducing power setting. 425 would be my absolute do not exceed
> red line, but that is why I want yellow and red line alarms below that
> value, so I can take action to prevent exceeding my real limit.
> John Deakin's Pelican's Perch articles on Avweb give some good background
> on temps and metallurgy to consider CHT limits lower than Lycoming's
> official numbers.
>
> As for a good break-in, temperature is a secondary consequence of what is
> needed for good ring seating. That is high pressure against the rings from
> high power settings. Temperatures limit how high a power you can use. Some
> advocate achieving a higher power setting by going very lean of peak, say
> 80 degrees, and using 80-85% power. The extreme leaness limits the CHT and
> gives a broader pressure peak during combustion, where rich of peak the
> engine runs hotter and each combustion peak is very sharp and brief.
> How you do your break-in is going to be based more on warranty
> considerations and instructions from your engine builder than anything
> else. If you choose to do other than those instructions, you are on your
> own if something bad happens.
>
>
> On 1/9/2011 11:22 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
>>
>> I just read Sonja Englerts book last night claiming that for a good
>> engine break-in, the CHT needs to be above 400F. No specifics or
>> justification is given, but combined with Kellys numbers below that
>> would put you in the red for your first few hours of flight which would
>> not seem such a good idea.
>>
>> Just a heads up.
>>
>> Gordon Anderson
>>
>> #41015 tailcone priming
>>
>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
>> McMullen
>> *Sent:* 09 January 2011 21:58
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
>>
>> Here are some conservative numbers:
>> CHT, 380 F yellow, 400 red, 200-380 green
>> Oil pressure, 25-50 yellow, 55-75 green,75-90 yellow, above that red
>> Oil temp 160-220 green 220-240 yellow 240 red.
>> Fuel pressure 20-28 green, below 18 and above 28 red,
>> Fuel flow, above 27 or so red.
>> That should get you started. Keep in mind that Lycoming operator's
>> handbook red lines are NOT conservative...like CHT redline 475-500 in
>> climb and 425 in cruise...much too hot.
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 11:18 AM, Michael Kraus
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like green-yellow-red
>> settings for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540 in a RV-10. Just
>> looking fir something to start with. Thanks
>> -Mike Kraus
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>> **
>> * *
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | FWF kit recieved on Friday... |
I called MT America several days ago about this potential problem. Juergen
told me that there is no need to be concerned about the combination Van's s
old me.
He asked me when I had purchased the engine and the Firewall forward kit. I
then told him I had the serial number for the governor. He asked me what l
etter the number had at the end of it. Mine had an "F". He confirmed=2C no
problem=2C the governor will allow the engine to reach full power.
JOhn G
> Date: Sun=2C 9 Jan 2011 21:28:47 -0700
> From: kellym(at)aviating.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF kit recieved on Friday...
>
>
> Yes=2C you won't get a new narrow deck engine=2C which is why it makes no
> sense that the only governor Van's sells is for a narrow deck engine.
> You can get new or overhauled wide deck engines as well. Just be sure
> you get governor with correct gear ratio for the engine you plan on using
.
>
>
> On 1/9/2011 9:22 PM=2C Pascal wrote:
> >
> > Narrow deck- rebuilt or used engine
> > Wide deck- New engines
> >
> > -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen
> > Sent: Sunday=2C January 09=2C 2011 7:48 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF kit recieved on Friday...
> >
> >
> > I don't know if you have noted emails to the list in the past that the
> > MT governor that Van's supplies is for a narrow deck engine. If you are
> > going to use a wide deck engine you should have MT convert it to the
> > correct gear ratio for wide deck engines=2C it is different from the
> > narrow deck units.
> > Kelly
> > fiberglass hell
> >
> > On 1/9/2011 8:17 PM=2C rv10flyer wrote:
>
> >>
> >> Eight days from my call to Dale at Van's. After receiving it I am
> >> very happy with the quality.
> >>
> >> Very nice exhaust system from Larry Vetterman and my favorite was the
> >> MT prop governor made in Germany. I spent 3 yrs there in the Army.
> >>
> >> --------
> >> Wayne Gillispie=2C A&=3BP 5/93=2C PPC 10/08
> >> Bldr# 40983 SB
> >> Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 38 Rudder pedals/interior painting.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prop Governor revisited |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
>From an old thread. One other message in the thread indicated that Rev F and
up governor governors would work fine. I'm kind of on the fence between
ordering the correct MT from source other than Vans, or ordering a PCU5000.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: <lessdragprod(at)aol.com>
Date: Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 3:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
I believe the question being asked is "Is only getting 2550 RPM maximum
acceptable when a (I)O-540 narrow deck governor is installed on a (I)O-540
wide deck engine".
I wouldn't think so.
Especially when Van's Aircraft could provide the correct governor. I am
aware of them knowing about this for at least three years.
Just my opinion.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn 10050 650 hours - LOM M332A engine - 3 blade electric CS MT
Propeller & Warne fixed pitch propeller
RV-6A sn 21873 150 hours - Lyc. O-360 engine - metal 2 blade CS MT Propeller
& 3 blade CS MT Propeller
RV-4/HR2/modified sn 001 28 hiours - IO-540 narrow deck engine -
counterweighted 4 blade CS MT Propeller & counterweighted 3 blade CS
Propeller in process.
-----Original Message-----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 9:22 am
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
As long as you have at least Rev F of the governor supplied by Vans you'll be
fine. Revisions prior to that potentially have an issue with surging. I would
imagine that anything you get delivered now will be latest revision. If others
are reading this and they have an older Rev B or C prop governor, MT
will update
it to latest version without charge if you have issues.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
]
On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 11:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
>
In reviewing the archives, I note that several times it was pointed
out that Vans supplies a governor setup for the narrow deck Lycoming
engine configuration, when most folks are using are wide deck
engines that should get different dash number set for that engine. Is
it worth deleting the Vans unit from the FWF kit and obtaining the
correct one elsewhere, or are folks satisfied with repositioning the
arm and resetting the max rpm on what Vans provides?
===================================
rget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===================================
tp://forums.matronics.com
===================================
_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===================================
*
*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
I mentioned looking at the Lycoming specs for the engine, I found the
"Lycoming key operations" in there it states:
For maximum service life, maintain the following recommended limits for
continuous operation.
Minimum in-flight CHT should be 150 F (65 C), and maximum in most
direct-drive normally aspirated Lycoming engines is 500 F (260 C). Some of
our higher-powered more complex
engines have a maximum limit of 475 F (245 C). Although these are minimum
and maximum limits, the pilot should operate his or her engine at more
reasonable temperatures in order to achieve the expected overhaul life of
the power plant. In our many years of building engines, the engines have
benefited during continuous operation by keeping CHT below 400 F in order
to achieve best life and wear of the power plant. In general, it would be
normal during all-year operations, in climb and cruise to see head
temperatures in the range of 350 F to 435 F.
I tend to believe this is a Lycoming "general", when the time comes I'll
call my engine builder and get their thoughts on the temps as well.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
It is a question of whether you want to set alarms for what you want in
the long run or if you are worried about having a few brief alarms on
first few flights while the engine is breaking in.
Myself, if the engine starts to go above 400, I want to be watching it
like a hawk and taking action to limit the temperature increase, like
nosing over for more airspeed, richening mixture, if not full rich, and
possibly reducing power setting. 425 would be my absolute do not exceed
red line, but that is why I want yellow and red line alarms below that
value, so I can take action to prevent exceeding my real limit.
John Deakin's Pelican's Perch articles on Avweb give some good
background on temps and metallurgy to consider CHT limits lower than
Lycoming's official numbers.
As for a good break-in, temperature is a secondary consequence of what
is needed for good ring seating. That is high pressure against the rings
from high power settings. Temperatures limit how high a power you can
use. Some advocate achieving a higher power setting by going very lean
of peak, say 80 degrees, and using 80-85% power. The extreme leaness
limits the CHT and gives a broader pressure peak during combustion,
where rich of peak the engine runs hotter and each combustion peak is
very sharp and brief.
How you do your break-in is going to be based more on warranty
considerations and instructions from your engine builder than anything
else. If you choose to do other than those instructions, you are on your
own if something bad happens.
On 1/9/2011 11:22 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
>
> I just read Sonja Englerts book last night claiming that for a good
> engine break-in, the CHT needs to be above 400F. No specifics or
> justification is given, but combined with Kellys numbers below that would
> put you in the red for your first few hours of flight which would not seem
> such a good idea.
>
> Just a heads up.
>
> Gordon Anderson
>
> #41015 tailcone priming
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
> McMullen
> *Sent:* 09 January 2011 21:58
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings
>
> Here are some conservative numbers:
> CHT, 380 F yellow, 400 red, 200-380 green
> Oil pressure, 25-50 yellow, 55-75 green,75-90 yellow, above that red
> Oil temp 160-220 green 220-240 yellow 240 red.
> Fuel pressure 20-28 green, below 18 and above 28 red,
> Fuel flow, above 27 or so red.
> That should get you started. Keep in mind that Lycoming operator's
> handbook red lines are NOT conservative...like CHT redline 475-500 in
> climb and 425 in cruise...much too hot.
>
> On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 11:18 AM, Michael Kraus > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Does anyone have a list of engine monitor settings, like green-yellow-red
> settings for the engine parameters? I have an IO-540 in a RV-10. Just
> looking fir something to start with. Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Airfoil Drag Video... |
This is a REALLY interesting video about drag. I had no idea...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftq8jTQ8ANE
Matt
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 132+ Hours TTSN - The Fun Never Stops...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy - Updated pricing |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Bob,
Did you ask for a quote from Bonaco? Just curious as to how their prices compare.
Also, are the prices for the TSFlightline stuff for integral firesleeve (the 124J
brown hoses) or the pullover orange type like Van's sells? I ask because I
want to be able to compare apples to apples as far as pricing goes.
Thanks!
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326278#326278
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List: Airfoil Drag Video... |
Not repeatable therefore not real useful for comparison. The guy should
rotate the airfoils to minimum drag each time, otherwise, he doesn't know if
they are in comparable positions. It's also a shame he didn't replace the
airfoil with an equal-flow-area rectangular shape. As a result he produces
confusing and misleading results, inferring that a round shape has more drag
than a rectangular shape!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 9:29 AM
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Airfoil Drag Video...
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
This is a REALLY interesting video about drag. I had no idea...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftq8jTQ8ANE
Matt
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 132+ Hours TTSN - The Fun Never Stops...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Biggs" <rv10(at)tmbiggs.com> |
Well my empennage arrived on Friday. When I did the inventory on Friday night,
I found where they had put a fork lift fork through the top of the box and bent
the HS skins. I am not sure if it is repairable or not. Dealing with ABS freight
is probably going to be maddening.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326312#326312
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/damage_400.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy - Updated pricing |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
No I haven't talked to bonaco yet.
The tsflightline hoses are not the integral firesleeve, but do have stainless ends
as oppose to aluminum
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 10, 2011, at 12:52 PM, "tsts4" wrote:
>
> Bob,
> Did you ask for a quote from Bonaco? Just curious as to how their prices compare.
>
> Also, are the prices for the TSFlightline stuff for integral firesleeve (the
124J brown hoses) or the pullover orange type like Van's sells? I ask because
I want to be able to compare apples to apples as far as pricing goes.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326278#326278
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Tom,
I had the same thing happen with my wing skins, but on a corner. Anyway the good
news is I filed for reimbursement for 3 new skins via the ABF online claims
submission page on their website. Had a check for my claimed amount within a
week.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326315#326315
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor revisited |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I'm sitting on that fence at the moment too. While I believe the pcu5000 to
be the better unit, I'm not sure the cost difference justifies the expense.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 10, 2011, at 10:46 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> >=46rom an old thread. One other message in the thread indicated that Rev
F and up governor governors would work fine. I'm kind of on the fence betwe
en ordering the correct MT from source other than Vans, or ordering a PCU500
0.
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: <lessdragprod(at)aol.com>
> Date: Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 3:45 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I believe the question being asked is "Is only getting 2550 RPM maximum ac
ceptable when a (I)O-540 narrow deck governor is installed on a (I)O-540 wid
e deck engine".
>
> I wouldn't think so.
>
> Especially when Van's Aircraft could provide the correct governor. I am a
ware of them knowing about this for at least three years.
>
> Just my opinion.
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 sn 10050 650 hours - LOM M332A engine - 3 blade electric CS MT Propel
ler & Warne fixed pitch propeller
> RV-6A sn 21873 150 hours - Lyc. O-360 engine - metal 2 blade CS MT Propell
er & 3 blade CS MT Propeller
> RV-4/HR2/modified sn 001 28 hiours - IO-540 narrow deck engine - counterwe
ighted 4 blade CS MT Propeller & counterweighted 3 blade CS Propeller in pro
cess.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 9:22 am
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
>
>
ystems.com>
>
> As long as you have at least Rev F of the governor supplied by Vans you'll
be
> fine. Revisions prior to that potentially have an issue with surging. I w
ould
> imagine that anything you get delivered now will be latest revision. If o
thers
> are reading this and they have an older Rev B or C prop governor, MT will u
pdate
> it to latest version without charge if you have issues.
>
> Bob
> RV-10 N442PM
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com]
> On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 11:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
>
> >
>
> In reviewing the archives, I note that several times it was pointed
> out that Vans supplies a governor setup for the narrow deck Lycoming
> engine configuration, when most folks are using are wide deck
> engines that should get different dash number set for that engine. Is
> it worth deleting the Vans unit from the FWF kit and obtaining the
> correct one elsewhere, or are folks satisfied with repositioning the
> arm and resetting the max rpm on what Vans provides?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> rget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Hey Tom,
It hard for me to tell what part of the HS that is and how much damage (in
terms of size) we're dealing with.
Do you have a photo that shows where it is located something to show us the
scale? Like a ruler or a quarter?
Phil
On Mon, Jan 10, 2011 at 1:56 PM, Tom Biggs wrote:
>
> Well my empennage arrived on Friday. When I did the inventory on Friday
> night, I found where they had put a fork lift fork through the top of the
> box and bent the HS skins. I am not sure if it is repairable or not. Dealing
> with ABS freight is probably going to be maddening.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326312#326312
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/damage_400.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor revisited |
I have talked to American Propeller about this and they claim the PCU is
much better governor. The cost savings will be a repair or overhaul
time. They claim the MT will be shot and almost not rebuild able, vs
the PCu will be a very easy overhaul.
I am thing of using a PCU and Whirlwind 3 Blade prop combo. I talked
to the Engineer who designed the 3 blade Whirlwind prop and very much
like the design and thing it will outperform the MT. I am not a fan of
wod/glassed props that MT makes.
Just my 2 cents worth.
John
40864 Emp complete Primered ribs the weekend. The fun continues.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
I'm sitting on that fence at the moment too. While I believe the
pcu5000 to be the better unit, I'm not sure the cost difference
justifies the expense.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 10, 2011, at 10:46 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>From an old thread. One other message in the thread indicated that Rev
F and up governor governors would work fine. I'm kind of on the fence
between ordering the correct MT from source other than Vans, or ordering
a PCU5000.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: <lessdragprod(at)aol.com>
Date: Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 3:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
I believe the question being asked is "Is only getting 2550 RPM maximum
acceptable when a (I)O-540 narrow deck governor is installed on a
(I)O-540 wide deck engine".
I wouldn't think so.
Especially when Van's Aircraft could provide the correct governor. I am
aware of them knowing about this for at least three years.
Just my opinion.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn 10050 650 hours - LOM M332A engine - 3 blade electric CS MT
Propeller & Warne fixed pitch propeller
RV-6A sn 21873 150 hours - Lyc. O-360 engine - metal 2 blade CS MT
Propeller & 3 blade CS MT Propeller
RV-4/HR2/modified sn 001 28 hiours - IO-540 narrow deck engine -
counterweighted 4 blade CS MT Propeller & counterweighted 3 blade CS
Propeller in process.
-----Original Message-----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 9:22 am
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
As long as you have at least Rev F of the governor supplied by Vans
you'll be
fine. Revisions prior to that potentially have an issue with surging.
I would
imagine that anything you get delivered now will be latest revision. If
others
are reading this and they have an older Rev B or C prop governor, MT
will update
it to latest version without charge if you have issues.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]
On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 11:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
>
In reviewing the archives, I note that several times it was pointed
out that Vans supplies a governor setup for the narrow deck Lycoming
engine configuration, when most folks are using are wide deck
engines that should get different dash number set for that engine. Is
it worth deleting the Vans unit from the FWF kit and obtaining the
correct one elsewhere, or are folks satisfied with repositioning the
arm and resetting the max rpm on what Vans provides?
rget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
Ok here goes a few dumb questions,
1. With aileron trim kit installed in left wing, then does the AP
server mount to the Rt wing. Trying to plan out how big a conduit to
install on rt wing. IE number of wire harnesses.
2. For the real dumb question. When riveting the ribs to the wing
spar I see builders place the shop head on the ribs side and some on the
Spar side. Being an OLD A&P I do not recall in AP school there ever was a
requirement how rivets were bucked direction wise for 470 type of rivets,
my thought has always been the thin material side gets the manufacture head
thus the shop head is on the spar side.
Thanks in advance for everyone input. Now no primer wars on this hehehe I
already stirred that war once.
John
40864 Emp Complete Wings 1 rib primered, ready to start setting revits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor revisited |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
How long is the service life of a prop gov and what type of maintenance is
involved?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
You'll probably get a lot of opinions on this. Mine is that you shouldn't
hesitate and demand a perfect skin. Putting unnecessary holes, dents, and
scratches in skins is our job, not the freight company's.
-Rob
On Mon, Jan 10, 2011 at 11:56 AM, Tom Biggs wrote:
>
> Well my empennage arrived on Friday. When I did the inventory on Friday
> night, I found where they had put a fork lift fork through the top of the
> box and bent the HS skins. I am not sure if it is repairable or not. Dealing
> with ABS freight is probably going to be maddening.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326312#326312
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/damage_400.jpg
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor revisited |
I received the same feedback on the governor from my engine builder.
The prop was still in development and =9Cin testing=9D when
I made the choice, if I recall the only prop more expensive at the time
was the aerocomposite, and the Carbon Lycoming. In the end it was the
standard 2 blade for me. half the price to boot!
From: John Cumins
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 12:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
I have talked to American Propeller about this and they claim the PCU is
much better governor. The cost savings will be a repair or overhaul
time. They claim the MT will be shot and almost not rebuild able, vs
the PCu will be a very easy overhaul.
I am thing of using a PCU and Whirlwind 3 Blade prop combo. I talked
to the Engineer who designed the 3 blade Whirlwind prop and very much
like the design and thing it will outperform the MT. I am not a fan of
wod/glassed props that MT makes.
Just my 2 cents worth.
John
40864 Emp complete Primered ribs the weekend. The fun continues.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
I'm sitting on that fence at the moment too. While I believe the
pcu5000 to be the better unit, I'm not sure the cost difference
justifies the expense.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 10, 2011, at 10:46 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>From an old thread. One other message in the thread indicated that
Rev F and up governor governors would work fine. I'm kind of on the
fence between ordering the correct MT from source other than Vans, or
ordering a PCU5000.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: <lessdragprod(at)aol.com>
Date: Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 3:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
I believe the question being asked is "Is only getting 2550 RPM
maximum acceptable when a (I)O-540 narrow deck governor is installed on
a (I)O-540 wide deck engine".
I wouldn't think so.
Especially when Van's Aircraft could provide the correct governor. I
am aware of them knowing about this for at least three years.
Just my opinion.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn 10050 650 hours - LOM M332A engine - 3 blade electric CS MT
Propeller & Warne fixed pitch propeller
RV-6A sn 21873 150 hours - Lyc. O-360 engine - metal 2 blade CS MT
Propeller & 3 blade CS MT Propeller
RV-4/HR2/modified sn 001 28 hiours - IO-540 narrow deck engine -
counterweighted 4 blade CS MT Propeller & counterweighted 3 blade CS
Propeller in process.
-----Original Message-----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, Aug 13, 2010 9:22 am
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited
As long as you have at least Rev F of the
governor supplied by Vans you'll be fine. Revisions prior to that
potentially have an issue with surging. I would imagine that anything
you get delivered now will be latest revision. If others are reading
this and they have an older Rev B or C prop governor, MT will update it
to latest version without charge if you have issues. BobRV-10 N442PM
-----Original Message-----From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullenSent: Friday, August 13, 2010 11:02 AMTo:
rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Prop Governor revisited -->
RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen In
reviewing the archives, I note that several times it was pointedout that
Vans supplies a governor setup for the narrow deck Lycomingengine
configuration, when most folks are using are wide deckengines that
should get different dash number set for that engine. Isit worth
deleting the Vans unit from the FWF kit and obtaining thecorrect one
elsewhere, or are folks satisfied with repositioning thearm and
resetting the max rpm on what Vans provides?
rget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listtp://forums.mat
ronics.com_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listtp://forums.ma
tronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
< span>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List< span><
span>http://forums.matronics.com<
span>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Had the same problem with our HS skins, caused by a fork also. Good news ABF took
responsibility. I'm glad I replaced them and as said on here before , it's
the only way to get freight companies to treat our goods with care.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326343#326343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Farner <steve.farner(at)bellevue.edu> |
I am a new builder and had the same thing a couple of months ago. Both HS skins,
the VS skin and aileron's were all bent from what looked like a forklift piercing
the corner of the crate. I noted on the bill of lading that the crate
was damaged, re-ordered the parts from Van's after inventorying, and had no trouble
with ABF. ABF has a simple form to fill out, and my check arrived within
a few weeks.
I was never asked for photos, but I would recommend photographing both the crate
and the damaged parts. I also called the local ABF depot, they directed me
to the right people. Van's also said they would assist if I had any trouble.
I don't know how common this is, but it evidently does happen.
The good news is that you don't need the HS skins right away.
Steve Farner
________________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]
On Behalf Of Tom Biggs [rv10(at)tmbiggs.com]
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 1:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Bend HS skin
Well my empennage arrived on Friday. When I did the inventory on Friday night,
I found where they had put a fork lift fork through the top of the box and bent
the HS skins. I am not sure if it is repairable or not. Dealing with ABS freight
is probably going to be maddening.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326312#326312
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/damage_400.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TMX-540 and breather tube/oil filter interference |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi there,
I installed vans breather tube and breather hose as per the plans, on the TMX-540
I have a 45 oil filter and that means that the breather tube touches the oil
filter. How did other cope with this.
Options could be installing a longer breather hose or bending the breather tube
to make more room for the oil filter.
Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326348#326348
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
The aileron trim and autopilot roll servo locations are totally independent
of each other. Trutrak's default is to send you a right wing bracket but
they'll send left if you ask. It mounts at the bellcrank in the outboard
inspection panel location. Harness for the TT roll servo is 7 wires (2 of
#20 and 5 of #22). Stein has servo wire already set up for them. The
aileron trim (Van's) is a servo like that used for elevator trim and mounts
to the inboard inspection panel and is connected to the push/pull tube with
springs. Wiring is just like the elevator trim servo - 5 wires (2 for the
motor and 3 for the position sensor).
Bob
On Mon, Jan 10, 2011 at 2:24 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Ok here goes a few dumb questions,
>
> 1. With aileron trim kit installed in left wing, then does the AP
> server mount to the Rt wing. Trying to plan out how big a conduit to
> install on rt wing. IE number of wire harnesses.
>
> 2. For the real dumb question. When riveting the ribs to the wing
> spar I see builders place the shop head on the ribs side and some on the
> Spar side. Being an OLD A&P I do not recall in AP school there ever was a
> requirement how rivets were bucked direction wise for 470 type of rivets,
> my thought has always been the thin material side gets the manufacture head
> thus the shop head is on the spar side.
>
> Thanks in advance for everyone input. Now no primer wars on this hehehe I
> already stirred that war once.
>
> John
>
> 40864 Emp Complete Wings 1 rib primered, ready to start setting revits.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
Anybody want to put a group buy together using bonacco-I am in.I have foun
d there service and quality incredible.Perhaps include there brake lines as
an option-.I will be calling the this week.728DD flying finishing 119KTOr
iginal Message-----
From: tsts4 <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Mon, Jan 10, 2011 9:55 am
Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy - Updated pric
ing
Bob,
id you ask for a quote from Bonaco? Just curious as to how their prices
ompare.
Also, are the prices for the TSFlightline stuff for integral firesleeve (th
e
24J brown hoses) or the pullover orange type like Van's sells? I ask becau
se I
ant to be able to compare apples to apples as far as pricing goes.
Thanks!
--------
odd Stovall
28TT (reserved)
V-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326278#326278
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy |
without a doubt you=99ll want the brake lines, one
builder=99s =9310 caught on fire while taxing because the
aluminum on his gear cracked and leaked.
Another item that is not part of the Vans hoses is ( I think) the fuel
servo to spider hose. I got mine from PHT with the firesleeve.
Pascal
From: pilotdds
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 1:53 PM.
Anybody want to put a group buy together using bonacco-I am in.I have
found there service and quality incredible.Perhaps include there brake
lines as an option-.I will be calling the this week.728DD flying
finishing 119KTOriginal Message-----
From: tsts4 <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Mon, Jan 10, 2011 9:55 am
Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 Hose kit -possible group buy - Updated
pricing
Bob,
Did you ask for a quote from Bonaco? Just curious as to how their
prices
compare.
Also, are the prices for the TSFlightline stuff for integral firesleeve
(the
124J brown hoses) or the pullover orange type like Van's sells? I ask
because I
want to be able to compare apples to apples as far as pricing goes.
Thanks!
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326278#326278
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
Bob
Thanks for the reply
That=92s what I have heard. I just wanted to make sure before I drill
holes
for the wire conduit and try and size it accordingly. Probably =BE to
1=94 will
be about right.
What are most people using for the main wire conduits down the wings.
John
40864 Emp Complete Wings
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Condrey
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alieron trim and Roll server locations.
The aileron trim and autopilot roll servo locations are totally
independent
of each other. Trutrak's default is to send you a right wing bracket
but
they'll send left if you ask. It mounts at the bellcrank in the
outboard
inspection panel location. Harness for the TT roll servo is 7 wires (2
of
#20 and 5 of #22). Stein has servo wire already set up for them. The
aileron trim (Van's) is a servo like that used for elevator trim and
mounts
to the inboard inspection panel and is connected to the push/pull tube
with
springs. Wiring is just like the elevator trim servo - 5 wires (2 for
the
motor and 3 for the position sensor).
Bob
On Mon, Jan 10, 2011 at 2:24 PM, John Cumins wrote:
Ok here goes a few dumb questions,
1. With aileron trim kit installed in left wing, then does the AP
server mount to the Rt wing. Trying to plan out how big a conduit to
install on rt wing. IE number of wire harnesses.
2. For the real dumb question. When riveting the ribs to the wing
spar I see builders place the shop head on the ribs side and some on the
Spar side. Being an OLD A&P I do not recall in AP school there ever was
a
requirement how rivets were bucked direction wise for 470 type of
rivets,
my thought has always been the thin material side gets the manufacture
head
thus the shop head is on the spar side.
Thanks in advance for everyone input. Now no primer wars on this hehehe
I
already stirred that war once.
John
40864 Emp Complete Email Forum -
:
0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
= --> h <http://forums.matronics.com/>
a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List: Airfoil Drag Video... |
I think he did do a very repeatable test. He didn't just throw those objects
on there. Look further into aerodynamics and you will find even more test
that seem to defy logic.
Just my 2 cents.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Finch" <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com>
;
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 2:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: RV-List: Airfoil Drag Video...
>
> Not repeatable therefore not real useful for comparison. The guy should
> rotate the airfoils to minimum drag each time, otherwise, he doesn't know
> if
> they are in comparable positions. It's also a shame he didn't replace the
> airfoil with an equal-flow-area rectangular shape. As a result he produces
> confusing and misleading results, inferring that a round shape has more
> drag
> than a rectangular shape!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 9:29 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com;
> rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Airfoil Drag Video...
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
> This is a REALLY interesting video about drag. I had no idea...
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftq8jTQ8ANE
>
> Matt
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 132+ Hours TTSN - The Fun Never Stops...
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor Range/Alarm settings |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
FWIW Mike Busch's webinar on cylinders states that cht's above 400* reduces the
tensile strength of that head by 50%. I am not clear if he means reduced strength
while the temp is elevated, or permanently. If the latter, that is scary.
Jim Berry
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326371#326371
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
I went with Van's corrugated conduit which uses a 3/4" hole.
As for rivets, unless a direction is specified in the plans, I try and put the
manufactured head on the thinner material, but will sometimes swap ends if doing
so makes it easier to rivet.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326372#326372
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
if you mean the actual conduit, I used 5/8th 2X (HD/Lowes in the
plumbing dept, irrigation tube) plenty of space for the nav,,landing
lights, pitot, AP, trim, etc...
I have one just for the strobes, probably not needed but makes me feel
better having it separate from all the other wires.
From: John Cumins
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 2:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alieron trim and Roll server locations.
Bob
Thanks for the reply
That=99s what I have heard. I just wanted to make sure before I
drill holes for the wire conduit and try and size it accordingly.
Probably =C2=BE to 1=9D will be about right.
What are most people using for the main wire conduits down the wings.
John
40864 Emp Complete Wings
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Condrey
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alieron trim and Roll server locations.
The aileron trim and autopilot roll servo locations are totally
independent of each other. Trutrak's default is to send you a right
wing bracket but they'll send left if you ask. It mounts at the
bellcrank in the outboard inspection panel location. Harness for the TT
roll servo is 7 wires (2 of #20 and 5 of #22). Stein has servo wire
already set up for them. The aileron trim (Van's) is a servo like that
used for elevator trim and mounts to the inboard inspection panel and is
connected to the push/pull tube with springs. Wiring is just like the
elevator trim servo - 5 wires (2 for the motor and 3 for the position
sensor).
Bob
On Mon, Jan 10, 2011 at 2:24 PM, John Cumins wrote:
Ok here goes a few dumb questions,
1. With aileron trim kit installed in left wing, then does the AP
server mount to the Rt wing. Trying to plan out how big a conduit to
install on rt wing. IE number of wire harnesses.
2. For the real dumb question. When riveting the ribs to the wing
spar I see builders place the shop head on the ribs side and some on the
Spar side. Being an OLD A&P I do not recall in AP school there ever was
a
requirement how rivets were bucked direction wise for 470 type of
rivets,
my thought has always been the thin material side gets the manufacture
head
thus the shop head is on the spar side.
Thanks in advance for everyone input. Now no primer wars on this hehehe
I
already stirred that war once.
John
40864 Emp Complete Email Forum -
:
0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
= --> h
a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
Pascal
I would do the same thing for the strobes but, since I am going with the
Aero led nav light and strobe system, there is no need. The wiring is
all 20 gauge wire with shielded outer, power for Nav, strobe and a
sync wire to sync all 3 strobes. No high Voltage, and very low amperage
draw. I think I have some corrugated split tubing 3/4" so I think I
will run a length down each wing. Install the pitot bushings in each
rib for the pitot tube line, and the same bushings for the aoa system
lines down the right wing will make for a very clean install.
I have been looking at Pitot Tube systems and not sure I want to go with
the gertz system. I very much like the auto on part of the gertz but
not to sure of the quality, I have read about numerous failed Gertz
pitot tubes and a few melted ones and that=99s a concern.
Anyone have feedback on this???
John
40864 Emp complete, wings
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alieron trim and Roll server locations.
if you mean the actual conduit, I used 5/8th 2X (HD/Lowes in the
plumbing dept, irrigation tube) plenty of space for the nav,,landing
lights, pitot, AP, trim, etc...
I have one just for the strobes, probably not needed but makes me feel
better having it separate from all the other wires.
From: John Cumins <mailto:jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 2:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alieron trim and Roll server locations.
Bob
Thanks for the reply
That=99s what I have heard. I just wanted to make sure before I
drill holes for the wire conduit and try and size it accordingly.
Probably =C2=BE to 1=9D will be about right.
What are most people using for the main wire conduits down the wings.
John
40864 Emp Complete Wings
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Condrey
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alieron trim and Roll server locations.
The aileron trim and autopilot roll servo locations are totally
independent of each other. Trutrak's default is to send you a right
wing bracket but they'll send left if you ask. It mounts at the
bellcrank in the outboard inspection panel location. Harness for the TT
roll servo is 7 wires (2 of #20 and 5 of #22). Stein has servo wire
already set up for them. The aileron trim (Van's) is a servo like that
used for elevator trim and mounts to the inboard inspection panel and is
connected to the push/pull tube with springs. Wiring is just like the
elevator trim servo - 5 wires (2 for the motor and 3 for the position
sensor).
Bob
On Mon, Jan 10, 2011 at 2:24 PM, John Cumins wrote:
Ok here goes a few dumb questions,
1. With aileron trim kit installed in left wing, then does the AP
server mount to the Rt wing. Trying to plan out how big a conduit to
install on rt wing. IE number of wire harnesses.
2. For the real dumb question. When riveting the ribs to the wing
spar I see builders place the shop head on the ribs side and some on the
Spar side. Being an OLD A&P I do not recall in AP school there ever was
a
requirement how rivets were bucked direction wise for 470 type of
rivets,
my thought has always been the thin material side gets the manufacture
head
thus the shop head is on the spar side.
Thanks in advance for everyone input. Now no primer wars on this hehehe
I
already stirred that war once.
John
40864 Emp Complete Email Forum -
:
0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
= --> h <http://forums.matronics.com/>
a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | extra fuel tanks |
I spoke with Jim Younkin today about their extra fuel tanks on the 10.
He stated that the proper contact is John Nys of Tulsa. They have an
extra tank outboard of the mains and a ball check valve installed in the
area between the tanks. Flow between tanks is gravity and the valve can
be opened/closed externally. Therefore no wiring or transfer pumps are
included. The outboard tanks have vented fuel caps but no other vent.
Long range flight means closing the valves , filling all tanks and then
opening the valves before takeoff. Standard use of the fuel selector
should provide for balancing the fuel load.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
| From: | Tom Koelzer <40950(at)rv10.net> |
John,
I was taught the as you state "the thin material side gets the manufacture head
thus the shop head is on the spar side". Maybe others found it easier to buck
on the rib side and drive on the spar side. I'll find out this weekend.
Tom
40950 Getting ready to rivet ribs to spars.
On Jan 10, 2011, at 2:24 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Ok here goes a few dumb questions,
>
> 1. With aileron trim kit installed in left wing, then does the AP
> server mount to the Rt wing. Trying to plan out how big a conduit to
> install on rt wing. IE number of wire harnesses.
>
> 2. For the real dumb question. When riveting the ribs to the wing
> spar I see builders place the shop head on the ribs side and some on the
> Spar side. Being an OLD A&P I do not recall in AP school there ever was a
> requirement how rivets were bucked direction wise for 470 type of rivets,
> my thought has always been the thin material side gets the manufacture head
> thus the shop head is on the spar side.
>
> Thanks in advance for everyone input. Now no primer wars on this hehehe I
> already stirred that war once.
>
> John
>
> 40864 Emp Complete Wings 1 rib primered, ready to start setting revits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Had this happen to my wing outer leading edge skins. Fedex paid for it no problem.
Definitely have them replace it.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326408#326408
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
Tom
Thanks, I am about the same place as you primered this weekend and will star
to assemble this next weekend I hope.
John 40864 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Koelzer
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 4:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alieron trim and Roll server locations.
John,
I was taught the as you state "the thin material side gets the manufacture
head thus the shop head is on the spar side". Maybe others found it easier
to buck on the rib side and drive on the spar side. I'll find out this
weekend.
Tom
40950 Getting ready to rivet ribs to spars.
On Jan 10, 2011, at 2:24 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Ok here goes a few dumb questions,
>
> 1. With aileron trim kit installed in left wing, then does the AP
> server mount to the Rt wing. Trying to plan out how big a conduit to
> install on rt wing. IE number of wire harnesses.
>
> 2. For the real dumb question. When riveting the ribs to the wing
> spar I see builders place the shop head on the ribs side and some on
> the Spar side. Being an OLD A&P I do not recall in AP school there
> ever was a requirement how rivets were bucked direction wise for 470
> type of rivets, my thought has always been the thin material side gets
> the manufacture head thus the shop head is on the spar side.
>
> Thanks in advance for everyone input. Now no primer wars on this
> hehehe I already stirred that war once.
>
> John
>
> 40864 Emp Complete Wings 1 rib primered, ready to start setting revits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I'm shocked....so many people have the same story as me....forklift thru the crate.
In my case I lived with the slight damage, fixed with body filler....but
man, how can this happen to so many people!?
Tim
On Jan 10, 2011, at 8:07 PM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
> Had this happen to my wing outer leading edge skins. Fedex paid for it no problem.
Definitely have them replace it.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326408#326408
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
Not hard to understand when you watch a typical freight hauler handle
freight....
On Jan 10, 2011, at 8:51 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I'm shocked....so many people have the same story as me....forklift
> thru the crate. In my case I lived with the slight damage, fixed
> with body filler....but man, how can this happen to so many people!?
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 10, 2011, at 8:07 PM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
>>
>> Had this happen to my wing outer leading edge skins. Fedex paid
>> for it no problem. Definitely have them replace it.
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326408#326408
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FWF kit recieved on Friday... |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Mine was manufactured in November 2010 with s/n ending in G. Nice to know I don't
have to send it back. I just wish that the control head/lever adjustment was
already made at the factory for my RV-10 and IO-540-D4A5, both purchased through
Van's. It is possible to damage the seal and cause an oil leak. Not something
I want to have to do after spending $1,100. Van's said this morning that
they have never heard of any problems with this governor. Sound familiar guys.
The Gerate-Laufkarte says Bestimmt fur triebwerk: Lyc IO-360 instead of IO-540.
So, probably as usual keeping inventory to a minimum. Since the 540 guys are
much fewer numbers, they can make the adjustments right?
I believe the max rpm setting will be close as spec sheet says 2411 governor rpm
which would be approx 2550 prop rpm. Those that are flying would know...do you
guys go from full power ground run of 2550 to 2700 in flight?
Notes: 8.7 qts/min @ 150 psi @ 1750 rpm(Blow that piston seal and your dry in a
little over a minute). Relief valve pres 315 psi @ 1,750 rpm. Oil pressure increases
pitch. Rotation CW. TBO= 2000 hrs or 6 yrs whichever comes first.
I'll sleep better tonight. Thanks for all the info fellow builders.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB
Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 39 Control System.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326418#326418
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
I used Bax Global for the kits and there wasn't a scratch on any box. I was very
surprised seeing how my hvac units are handled by other companies. Every 5th
unit is damaged.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB
Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 39 Control System.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326419#326419
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Used SB625-7 in all ribs but outboard four and used SB500-6 in those. Ran all wiring
and servo(Stein) before installing bottom skins.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB
Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 39 Control System.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326424#326424
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor revisited |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Phil,
My MT gov P-860-3 specs sheet says 6 yrs or 2000 hrs whichever comes first. No
idea if it will make it or not. Only time will tell.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB
Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 39 Control System.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326425#326425
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF kit recieved on Friday... |
The control lever adjustment is no sweat. Cut the safety wires=2C loosen th
e six screws=2C rotate the arm to coorect position=2C tighten the screws an
d re safety wire.
Count it as safety wire practice.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: FWF kit recieved on Friday...
> From: wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Mon=2C 10 Jan 2011 19:13:08 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Mine was manufactured in November 2010 with s/n ending in G. Nice to know
I don't have to send it back. I just wish that the control head/lever adju
stment was already made at the factory for my RV-10 and IO-540-D4A5=2C both
purchased through Van's. It is possible to damage the seal and cause an oi
l leak. Not something I want to have to do after spending $1=2C100. Van's s
aid this morning that they have never heard of any problems with this gover
nor. Sound familiar guys. The Gerate-Laufkarte says Bestimmt fur triebwerk:
Lyc IO-360 instead of IO-540. So=2C probably as usual keeping inventory to
a minimum. Since the 540 guys are much fewer numbers=2C they can make the
adjustments right?
>
> I believe the max rpm setting will be close as spec sheet says 2411 gover
nor rpm which would be approx 2550 prop rpm. Those that are flying would kn
ow...do you guys go from full power ground run of 2550 to 2700 in flight?
>
> Notes: 8.7 qts/min @ 150 psi @ 1750 rpm(Blow that piston seal and your dr
y in a little over a minute). Relief valve pres 315 psi @ 1=2C750 rpm. Oil
pressure increases pitch. Rotation CW. TBO= 2000 hrs or 6 yrs whichever c
omes first.
>
> I'll sleep better tonight. Thanks for all the info fellow builders.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie=2C A&=3BP 5/93=2C PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB
> Fuselage 9/21/10- working on Sec 39 Control System.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326418#326418
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor revisited |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I have a wide deck IO-540-N1A5. After Kelly posted the gear ratio reminder I was
worried about my governor I received from Vans. I have the -3 model for narrow
deck so I called MT. The tech advised me that it will probably work as is.
If it doesn't reach full RPM there are options. First try to adjust the set
screw that is safety wired by rotating it out. If that still doesn't work I
call him back and he talks me through internally adjusting the governor. Either
way I won't have to send it back to MT. This is also because I have the latest
mod on the governor.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326464#326464
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
This is something that has been concerning me with regards to shipping my
engine. That would make me sick to see a fork lift wound.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
The 10 kits and engine came FEDEX without problem; the only problem on
the Glastar was a scratched wing skin which was replaced by the
manufacturer and was due to their packing not the shipper.
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillip Perry
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 6:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Bend HS skin
This is something that has been concerning me with regards to shipping
my engine. That would make me sick to see a fork lift wound.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
I went with ABF on the tail and wings and was 1 for 2: the tail crate shipped
without a scratch, but as I posted above, wasn't as lucky with the wing crate
that held the skins.
I went with Partain on the fuse without incident and he was cheaper than ABF's
quote.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326502#326502
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
The engine is strapped to a pallet. It is possible for a moron to punch the
outside of the box with a fork from a fork lift=2C but the opporator is ai
ming for a different area.
The box is strapped down well and it will not move independantly from the p
allet=2C so the fork can't get between the box and the pallet.
It would need a pretty direct hit to get through the box=2C and the expande
d foam. It is possible and you would just get another engine.
Plenty of other stuff to worry about.
Date: Tue=2C 11 Jan 2011 07:09:11 -0600
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Bend HS skin
From: philperry9(at)gmail.com
This is something that has been concerning me with regards to shipping my e
ngine. That would make me sick to see a fork lift wound.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | "Tom Biggs" <rv10(at)tmbiggs.com> |
I think the issue is that the box the empennage came in is NOT on a pallet. The
forklift operator has to get under the box with the forks. To keep from skidding
the box, he has to have some momentum and that momentum leads to smashing
through the sides.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326570#326570
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
All my freight was shipped Fedex freight. In each and every case the crates
sat on pallets, the driver moved them on the pallets and even offered to
leave them (great firewood) no extra charge. In one case we moved the crate
off the pallet and the driver took it with him. My understanding is the
pallets came from Oregon, AKA they were placed on a pallet when picked up
and left on that pallet until delivered.
I had no issues at all with my deliveries.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Biggs
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 12:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Bend HS skin
I think the issue is that the box the empennage came in is NOT on a pallet.
The forklift operator has to get under the box with the forks. To keep from
skidding the box, he has to have some momentum and that momentum leads to
smashing through the sides.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326570#326570
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bend HS skin |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
My tail kit was shipped with ABF. Im Huge red letters it said HIGH DOLLAR AIRCRAFT
PARTS on it, and an arrow showing which way should be up.
Lo and behold, when the guy opened the back of the truck, the arrow was pointing
down...
No damage though. The rest came with Partain, and some with Fedex. Didn't want
to risk ABF anymore.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326586#326586
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
There are two of us that are around 300 hrs and now the flaps have been not
wanting to come all the way up. If you give them a little- help by pushi
ng up on them or by taking off where there is air pressure on them, they co
me up. My buddy has looked in his tunnel and does not see anything wrong. W
ondering if anybody else has had this problem. I'll- be taking- mine ap
art in another week or so to find out what is going on, wondering, if this
is a know problem with the flap motor or the gears.
They come up to around the half way or first flap setting with no problem a
nd then stop, and going down there is no problem just coming up.
Patrick Thyssen
N15PT
281-655-9363
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
Mine have 370 hours with no problem; I do not use the flap positioning
system.
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Thyssen
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: flaps
There are two of us that are around 300 hrs and now the flaps
have been not wanting to come all the way up. If you give them a little
help by pushing up on them or by taking off where there is air pressure
on them, they come up. My buddy has looked in his tunnel and does not
see anything wrong. Wondering if anybody else has had this problem. I'll
be taking mine apart in another week or so to find out what is going
on, wondering, if this is a know problem with the flap motor or the
gears.
They come up to around the half way or first flap setting with
no problem and then stop, and going down there is no problem just coming
up.
Patrick Thyssen
N15PT
281-655-9363
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
We have 920 hrs w no problems. We started w the flap positioning system & n
ow use a position sensor w the VP-200. I'm fairly certain Van's has never h
eard of it as a problem before.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:48 PM, "DLM" wrote:
> Mine have 370 hours with no problem; I do not use the flap positioning sys
tem.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Patrick Thyssen
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:28 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: flaps
>
> There are two of us that are around 300 hrs and now the flaps have been no
t wanting to come all the way up. If you give them a little help by pushing
up on them or by taking off where there is air pressure on them, they come u
p. My buddy has looked in his tunnel and does not see anything wrong. Wonder
ing if anybody else has had this problem. I'll be taking mine apa
rt in another week or so to find out what is going on, wondering, if this is
a know problem with the flap motor or the gears.
> They come up to around the half way or first flap setting with no problem a
nd then stop, and going down there is no problem just coming up.
> Patrick Thyssen
> N15PT
> 281-655-9363
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
690 and trouble free with the standard FPS.
Tim
On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:10 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> We have 920 hrs w no problems. We started w the flap positioning system &
now use a position sensor w the VP-200. I'm fairly certain Van's has never
heard of it as a problem before.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:48 PM, "DLM" wrote:
>
>> Mine have 370 hours with no problem; I do not use the flap positioning sy
stem.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Patrick Thyssen
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:28 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: flaps
>>
>> There are two of us that are around 300 hrs and now the flaps have been n
ot wanting to come all the way up. If you give them a little help by pushin
g up on them or by taking off where there is air pressure on them, they come
up. My buddy has looked in his tunnel and does not see anything wrong. Wond
ering if anybody else has had this problem. I'll be taking mine apart in a
nother week or so to find out what is going on, wondering, if this is a know
problem with the flap motor or the gears.
>> They come up to around the half way or first flap setting with no problem
and then stop, and going down there is no problem just coming up.
>> Patrick Thyssen
>> N15PT
>> 281-655-9363
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
No problems in 4 yrs with standard Van's motor and simple up/down
switch with LED indicator.
grumpy
On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:43 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> 690 and trouble free with the standard FPS.
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:10 PM, Jesse Saint
> wrote:
>
>> We have 920 hrs w no problems. We started w the flap positioning
>> system & now use a position sensor w the VP-200. I'm fairly
>> certain Van's has never heard of it as a problem before.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> www.mavericklsa.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> O: 352-465-4545
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:48 PM, "DLM" wrote:
>>
>>> Mine have 370 hours with no problem; I do not use the flap
>>> positioning system.
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Patrick Thyssen
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:28 PM
>>> Subject: RV10-List: flaps
>>>
>>> There are two of us that are around 300 hrs and now the flaps have
>>> been not wanting to come all the way up. If you give them a
>>> little help by pushing up on them or by taking off where there is
>>> air pressure on them, they come up. My buddy has looked in his
>>> tunnel and does not see anything wrong. Wondering if anybody else
>>> has had this problem. I'll be taking mine apart in another week
>>> or so to find out what is going on, wondering, if this is a know
>>> problem with the flap motor or the gears.
>>> They come up to around the half way or first flap setting with no
>>> problem and then stop, and going down there is no problem just
>>> coming up.
>>> Patrick Thyssen
>>> N15PT
>>> 281-655-9363
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> ======================
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> ======================
>> ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> ======================
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> =
>> 3D
>> ======================
>>
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution _-
> ===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
We didn't have any of that until we installed the FPS. Sometimes I have to
hold the switch down for a second or so, as if the motor needs to run for a
bit to get the microswitch out of its notch...just guessing.
One time we had to cycle the switch several times to get the flaps to come
up. That was early on and it hasn't repeated that problem.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jan 11, 2011 at 6:15 PM, Miller John wrote:
> No problems in 4 yrs with standard Van's motor and simple up/down switch
> with LED indicator.
>
> grumpy
>
> On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:43 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> 690 and trouble free with the standard FPS.
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:10 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> We have 920 hrs w no problems. We started w the flap positioning system &
> now use a position sensor w the VP-200. I'm fairly certain Van's has never
> heard of it as a problem before.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> <http://www.itecusa.org>www.itecusa.org
> <http://www.mavericklsa.com>www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 11, 2011, at 7:48 PM, "DLM" < dlm34077(at)q.com>
> wrote:
>
> Mine have 370 hours with no problem; I do not use the flap positioning
> system.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Patrick Thyssen
> *To:*
> rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:28 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: flaps
>
> There are two of us that are around 300 hrs and now the flaps have been
> not wanting to come all the way up. If you give them a little help by
> pushing up on them or by taking off where there is air pressure on them,
> they come up. My buddy has looked in his tunnel and does not see anything
> wrong. Wondering if anybody else has had this problem. I'll be taking mine
> apart in another week or so to find out what is going on, wondering, if this
> is a know problem with the flap motor or the gears.
> They come up to around the half way or first flap setting with no problem
> and then stop, and going down there is no problem just coming up.
> Patrick Thyssen
> N15PT
> 281-655-9363
>
> *
>
> href=" http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href=" http://forums.matronics.com"> http://forums.matronics.com
> href=" http://www.matronics.com/contribution"> http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
> * D============================================= List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> D============================================
> ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> D============================================
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D============================================
> *
>
> * href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronicshref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution =========== *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)me.com> |
I have flaps that do not go all the way up after reaching 1st flap position whwe
they have been down while in flight and on the ground. 350+hrs.
Robert Brunkenhoefer
Sent from my Apple iPad
On Jan 11, 2011, at 6:48 PM, DLM wrote:
> Mine have 370 hours with no problem; I do not use the flap positioning system.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Patrick Thyssen
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:28 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: flaps
>
> There are two of us that are around 300 hrs and now the flaps have been not wanting
to come all the way up. If you give them a little help by pushing
up on them or by taking off where there is air pressure on them, they come
up. My buddy has looked in his tunnel and does not see anything wrong. Wondering
if anybody else has had this problem. I'll be taking mine apart in another
week or so to find out what is going on, wondering, if this is a know problem
with the flap motor or the gears.
> They come up to around the half way or first flap setting with no problem and
then stop, and going down there is no problem just coming up.
> Patrick Thyssen
> N15PT
> 281-655-9363
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)EARTHLINK.NET> |
> What are most people using for the main wire conduits down the wings.
John, I found Van's convoluted conduit - 3/4" - works just fine in the wings.
It's a straight run so it's easy to pull wires, and you can cut a slit in it to
pull out wire for something installed closer in.
I would not recommend it for the fuselage. The fuselage requires lots of bends
and turns to get from the tail to the panel. The convolutions cause jamming when
trying to fish additional wires through.
John[/quote]
--------
#40572 Painted and the wings are on.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326667#326667
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
No matter what kind of conduit you install, it's very easy to use a shop
vac to suck a string through the conduit. A small ball of tape or
cotton ball will help. You can use the small string to pull a larger
rope. Also, use 'monkey snot' lubricant when pulling wires. Home Depot
or Lowes has it in the electrical dept. You can easily wipe the snot
off after the wire(s) come out of the conduit.
Linn
On 1/12/2011 10:03 AM, johngoodman wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
>
>
>> What are most people using for the main wire conduits down the wings.
>
> John, I found Van's convoluted conduit - 3/4" - works just fine in the wings.
It's a straight run so it's easy to pull wires, and you can cut a slit in it
to pull out wire for something installed closer in.
> I would not recommend it for the fuselage. The fuselage requires lots of bends
and turns to get from the tail to the panel. The convolutions cause jamming
when trying to fish additional wires through.
>
>
> John[/quote]
>
> --------
> #40572 Painted and the wings are on.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326667#326667
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I found that the weed whacker string trimmer line works very well as a fish
line to pull wires. Put it in first and you can pull most any wire that will
fit. What you say about the fuselage is true...had to pull heavy battery
line and the other tail cone power leads through one at a time to get them
all in the conduit. Took some back and forth to get past the curves in
system.
Black flex irrigation tubing might well work better.
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 8:03 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>
> > What are most people using for the main wire conduits down the wings.
>
>
> John, I found Van's convoluted conduit - 3/4" - works just fine in the
> wings. It's a straight run so it's easy to pull wires, and you can cut a
> slit in it to pull out wire for something installed closer in.
> I would not recommend it for the fuselage. The fuselage requires lots of
> bends and turns to get from the tail to the panel. The convolutions cause
> jamming when trying to fish additional wires through.
>
>
> John[/quote]
>
> --------
> #40572 Painted and the wings are on.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326667#326667
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alieron trim and Roll server locations. |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I bought a nine dollar snake from harbor freight. It makes all the turns in
my corrugated conduit really easy.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 12, 2011, at 8:22, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I found that the weed whacker string trimmer line works very well as a fis
h line to pull wires. Put it in first and you can pull most any wire that wi
ll fit. What you say about the fuselage is true...had to pull heavy battery l
ine and the other tail cone power leads through one at a time to get them al
l in the conduit. Took some back and forth to get past the curves in system.
> Black flex irrigation tubing might well work better.
>
> On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 8:03 AM, johngoodman w
rote:
>
>
> > What are most people using for the main wire conduits down the wings.
>
>
> John, I found Van's convoluted conduit - 3/4" - works just fine in the wi
ngs. It's a straight run so it's easy to pull wires, and you can cut a slit i
n it to pull out wire for something installed closer in.
> I would not recommend it for the fuselage. The fuselage requires lots of b
ends and turns to get from the tail to the panel. The convolutions cause jam
ming when trying to fish additional wires through.
>
>
> John[/quote]
>
> --------
> #40572 Painted and the wings are on.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326667#326667
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Mount Crack |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
A link to an LAA article about a crack in their engine mount was just posted on
VAF.
Here's the link: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/jbtrellis/PDF_Docs/LAA_RV-10_Nosegear_Crack.pdf
This is the first I've heard of the crack and thought others would be interested.
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326733#326733
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/laa_rv_10_nosegear_crack_415.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
wheels and tires that can be replaced?
2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
1.00 U-1009 AXLE
I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
kept even with the replacements?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
First thing that I would do is check that everything is lubricated and that nothing
has seized. Mine are quite tight at the inboard end and I have used 3M anti-chafe
tape to protect the metal and make the flaps move the last inch easily.
That motor works pretty hard so check it out carefully.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326780#326780
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
I just replaced the nose wheel and axel. Be sure to get the spacers for the
axel too. I overlooked them initially.
The Cleveland wheel set also includes your brakes, so you'll need to take
that into consideration if you are planning on replacing those with Matco
wheels too.
I am having a problem with my nose wheel tube. It's only maintain air for
about two days. I don't know if it's defective or if I may have pinched or
punctured it myself. I guess I need to order a new tube. What do folks
recommend?
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to wheels
and tires that can be replaced?
2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
1.00 U-1009 AXLE
I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and the
U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just the
nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above kept
even with the replacements?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/
This site has the leakproof tubes and the tires. Vans gets the tires from
this source so you can get the Airtrac but it also gives the option to take
retread or new better tires as well.
Get the Matco wheels and axle, should be able to use the cleveland set. Ask
Matco when you call them.
Besides the tires get the windscreen and wingtips as well.
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/Airframe-Parts/
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
wheels and tires that can be replaced?
2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
1.00 U-1009 AXLE
I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
kept even with the replacements?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting Main Wheel Question |
In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly apparent
that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve. There is
almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely appreciative
of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my thanks often
enough.
Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I could
crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower. Another
option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the nut. I'm
not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
Comments?
Thanks,
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=14581&highlight=desser+retread
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/15%7B47%7D600%252d6-Aero-Classic-Leakguard-Tube.html
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/Aero-Classic-500%252d5-Leakguard-Tube.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
I just replaced the nose wheel and axel. Be sure to get the spacers for the
axel too. I overlooked them initially.
The Cleveland wheel set also includes your brakes, so you'll need to take
that into consideration if you are planning on replacing those with Matco
wheels too.
I am having a problem with my nose wheel tube. It's only maintain air for
about two days. I don't know if it's defective or if I may have pinched or
punctured it myself. I guess I need to order a new tube. What do folks
recommend?
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to wheels
and tires that can be replaced?
2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
1.00 U-1009 AXLE
I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and the
U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just the
nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above kept
even with the replacements?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem to
be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy and it
is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that particular
piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how to remedy this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the valve
cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo plane.
I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent me the
correct setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was untouched MAtco
was replacing the wheels for $20.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly apparent
that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve. There is
almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely appreciative
of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my thanks often
enough.
Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I could
crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower. Another
option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the nut. I'm
not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
Comments?
Thanks,
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Thanks guys. I'll probably just start out with replacing the nose wheel
and axle with a Matco WHLNW511.25 and Matco Axle and maybe getting the
leakguard tubes. Seems vansaircrafttires doesn't have a leakguard tube
for the 500-5 nose tire?
-Sean #40303
On 1/12/11 9:20 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/
> This site has the leakproof tubes and the tires. Vans gets the tires
> from this source so you can get the Airtrac but it also gives the
> option to take retread or new better tires as well.
> Get the Matco wheels and axle, should be able to use the cleveland
> set. Ask Matco when you call them.
>
> Besides the tires get the windscreen and wingtips as well.
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/Airframe-Parts/
>
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:28 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
> kept even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I think you are talking about the nose wheel and Bob is talking about the
mains. Not sure it is the same issue.
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 8:54 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the valve
> cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo plane.
> I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent me the
> correct setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was untouched MAtco
> was replacing the wheels for $20.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
>
>
> In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
> apparent
> that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve. There is
> almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
>
>
> A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
> community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely appreciative
> of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my thanks
> often
> enough.
>
>
> Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I could
> crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
> Another
> option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the nut.
> I'm
> not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
>
>
> Comments?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I think he's talking a different problem...the mains. I haven't had a big issue
with the mains. I got some big cotter pins that don't stick out a lot of excess
and when I bend the ears over it clears fine. Sure, it's close sometimes,
but it always clears. You want to buy 100 of the right size cotter pins, because
you throw them away every tire dismount. I think if I remember right,
my original ones were slightly longer and I snipped the tips. The ones I use
now are just about perfect. They are a pain to install, cuz you have to arch
them a little as you install them, and then straighten them out to get them through
the far hole. My worry has been that if the ears rotate, they could scrape
the seal cover ring but that's not happened so far.
So unless you have a different clearance than me, Bob, I think it should be workable.
Thanks for the comment on the extensions....haven't heard of any breaking
and there are over 160 sets out there so we must be at least doing better
than stock. ;)
Tim
On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:54 PM, "Pascal" wrote:
>
> Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the valve cover
and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo plane.
> I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent me the correct
setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was untouched MAtco was replacing
the wheels for $20.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
>
>
>
> In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly apparent
> that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve. There is
> almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
>
>
>
> A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
> community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely appreciative
> of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my thanks often
> enough.
>
>
>
> Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I could
> crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower. Another
> option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the nut. I'm
> not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
>
>
>
> Comments?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Replace the windscreen and wingtips, both the same price as Vans, but better
quality and less work to make them fit, as they are 1/8 off all around from
being a perfect fit as received.
Here are both tube links
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/15%7B47%7D600%252d6-Aero-Classic-Leakguard-Tube.html
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/Aero-Classic-500%252d5-Leakguard-Tube.html
Retreads are better and less expensive than the stock tires. core is
Goodyear FC III usually and weight is not much different than the stocks. I
will replace mie with the retreads when the time comes.. for more info check
out Tim's review and Aviation consumer news (articles tab of Desser home
page)
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
Thanks guys. I'll probably just start out with replacing the nose wheel
and axle with a Matco WHLNW511.25 and Matco Axle and maybe getting the
leakguard tubes. Seems vansaircrafttires doesn't have a leakguard tube
for the 500-5 nose tire?
-Sean #40303
On 1/12/11 9:20 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/
> This site has the leakproof tubes and the tires. Vans gets the tires from
> this source so you can get the Airtrac but it also gives the option to
> take retread or new better tires as well.
> Get the Matco wheels and axle, should be able to use the cleveland set.
> Ask Matco when you call them.
>
> Besides the tires get the windscreen and wingtips as well.
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/Airframe-Parts/
>
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:28 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
> kept even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
good point! It is a different issue
forget Matco solution, but =9CBasically Vans will tell you to
remove the valve cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with
the demo plane.=9D stays.
I did go out and looked and there is minimal clearance, but should not
be an issue, especially if the valve cover is removed.
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
I think you are talking about the nose wheel and Bob is talking about
the mains. Not sure it is the same issue.
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 8:54 PM, Pascal wrote:
Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the
valve cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo
plane.
I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent me
the correct setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was
untouched MAtco was replacing the wheels for $20.
-----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
apparent
that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve.
There is
almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely
appreciative
of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my thanks
often
enough.
Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I
could
crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
Another
option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the
nut. I'm
not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
Comments?
Thanks,
bob
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arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
I am a little confused. I purchased a quick-build fuselage and it came
with the windscreen. The wingtips came with the self-build wing kit.
But I get the impression that these come with the finish kit from the
text below. Am I missing something? I guess it is too late for me to
consider these products from vanaircrafttires.
In a more confused state than usual.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
On 1/12/2011 8:52 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> Replace the windscreen and wingtips, both the same price as Vans, but
> better quality and less work to make them fit, as they are 1/8 off all
> around from being a perfect fit as received.
> Here are both tube links
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/15%7B47%7D600%252d6-Aero-Classic-Leakguard-Tube.html
>
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/Aero-Classic-500%252d5-Leakguard-Tube.html
>
>
> Retreads are better and less expensive than the stock tires. core is
> Goodyear FC III usually and weight is not much different than the
> stocks. I will replace mie with the retreads when the time comes.. for
> more info check out Tim's review and Aviation consumer news (articles
> tab of Desser home page)
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:09 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
> Thanks guys. I'll probably just start out with replacing the nose wheel
> and axle with a Matco WHLNW511.25 and Matco Axle and maybe getting the
> leakguard tubes. Seems vansaircrafttires doesn't have a leakguard tube
> for the 500-5 nose tire?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> On 1/12/11 9:20 PM, Pascal wrote:
>>
>> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/
>> This site has the leakproof tubes and the tires. Vans gets the tires
>> from this source so you can get the Airtrac but it also gives the
>> option to take retread or new better tires as well.
>> Get the Matco wheels and axle, should be able to use the cleveland
>> set. Ask Matco when you call them.
>>
>> Besides the tires get the windscreen and wingtips as well.
>> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/Airframe-Parts/
>>
>> Pascal
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Sean Stephens
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:28 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>>
>>
>> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
>> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
>> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
>> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
>> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>>
>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
>> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
>> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>>
>> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
>> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>>
>> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
>> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
>> kept even with the replacements?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
No, you are correct. I just asked about the finish kit and Pascal threw
in a promo for the other items as well. :)
On 1/13/11 12:22 AM, Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
>
>
> I am a little confused. I purchased a quick-build fuselage and it
> came with the windscreen. The wingtips came with the self-build wing
> kit. But I get the impression that these come with the finish kit
> from the text below. Am I missing something? I guess it is too late
> for me to consider these products from vanaircrafttires.
>
> In a more confused state than usual.
>
> Dave
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Sean,
for the nosewheel:
remove from Finishing Kit:
1x U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
1x U-1009 AXLE NOSE WHEEL
order from Matco:
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
http://www.matcomfg.com/SPACERAXLE24KIT-idv-3681-44.html
http://www.matcomfg.com/NOSEWHEEL5125-idv-2839-6.html
that is:
1x WHLAXLE24 56.24$
1x WHLA24SPKIT
1x WHLNW511.25
That is what I did, not yet mounted but should be the correct items,
maybe Michael did as I ordered also a set for him.
Werner
#41122 empenage (reserved HB-YPK)
#5794 flying (HB-YKP)
On 13.01.2011 02:28, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
> kept even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
They do, it's just hard to find. I ordered one last night.
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/Aero-Classic-500%252d5-Leakguard-T
ube.html
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
Thanks guys. I'll probably just start out with replacing the nose wheel and
axle with a Matco WHLNW511.25 and Matco Axle and maybe getting the
leakguard tubes. Seems vansaircrafttires doesn't have a leakguard tube for
the 500-5 nose tire?
-Sean #40303
On 1/12/11 9:20 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/
> This site has the leakproof tubes and the tires. Vans gets the tires
> from this source so you can get the Airtrac but it also gives the
> option to take retread or new better tires as well.
> Get the Matco wheels and axle, should be able to use the cleveland
> set. Ask Matco when you call them.
>
> Besides the tires get the windscreen and wingtips as well.
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/Airframe-Parts/
>
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:28 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
> -->
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I
> am substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having
> some trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and
> tires. I believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with
> regards to wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it
> just the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets
> part above kept even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting Main Wheel Question |
Tim hit the nail on the head.
Tim do you recall the part number of the pin that worked better for you?
Thanks!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
I think he's talking a different problem...the mains. I haven't had a big
issue with the mains. I got some big cotter pins that don't stick out a lot
of excess and when I bend the ears over it clears fine. Sure, it's close
sometimes, but it always clears. You want to buy 100 of the right size
cotter pins, because you throw them away every tire dismount. I think if I
remember right, my original ones were slightly longer and I snipped the
tips. The ones I use now are just about perfect. They are a pain to
install, cuz you have to arch them a little as you install them, and then
straighten them out to get them through the far hole. My worry has been
that if the ears rotate, they could scrape the seal cover ring but that's
not happened so far.
So unless you have a different clearance than me, Bob, I think it should be
workable. Thanks for the comment on the extensions....haven't heard of any
breaking and there are over 160 sets out there so we must be at least doing
better than stock. ;) Tim
On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:54 PM, "Pascal" wrote:
>
> Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the valve
cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo plane.
> I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent me the
correct setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was untouched MAtco
was replacing the wheels for $20.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
>
>
>
> In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
apparent
> that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve. There
is
> almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
>
>
>
> A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
> community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely
> appreciative of what Tim did for the community and probably can't
> express my thanks often enough.
>
>
>
> Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I could
> crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
> Another option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of
> the nut. I'm not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
>
>
>
> Comments?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com> |
Bruce
I had a leak on the right quick build tank and was finally able to determine
it was seepage around the round head rivets on the flange which hold the
outlet fitting. I used scotchbrite and alumiprep to clean and roughen the
area. I then rinsed well and dried. I covered the area in proseal. It has
held leak free so far. I was able to do this with the tank and wing
installed.
Wayne
RV10 85 plus hrs
F1 Rocket 475 plus hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Try Desser Tire for tire and tube replacements. I have used them for 10+
years. They are a major player. They are also selling after market lens, etc
for RV10. Cleveland is the place for main wheels and matco is the supplier
for nose wheel (the correct one). Cleveland has a kit (199104) for the
wheels. Buy it from one of their dealers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/
> This site has the leakproof tubes and the tires. Vans gets the tires from
> this source so you can get the Airtrac but it also gives the option to
> take retread or new better tires as well.
> Get the Matco wheels and axle, should be able to use the cleveland set.
> Ask Matco when you call them.
>
> Besides the tires get the windscreen and wingtips as well.
> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/Airframe-Parts/
>
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 5:28 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
> kept even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
The 10 needs the Matco axle. Those stainless sleeves eventualy turn and
score the fork. You might as well get the full matco solution when you
change the axle. I saw a 10 in Phoenix which some A&P had returned to
service where the nose wheel wobbled 15 degrees each side of vertical.
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
good point! It is a different issue
forget Matco solution, but =9CBasically Vans will tell you to
remove the valve cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with
the demo plane.=9D stays.
I did go out and looked and there is minimal clearance, but should not
be an issue, especially if the valve cover is removed.
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:21 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
I think you are talking about the nose wheel and Bob is talking about
the mains. Not sure it is the same issue.
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 8:54 PM, Pascal
wrote:
Hence the Matco solution. Basically Vans will tell you to remove the
valve cover and it will be fine, that is what they did with the demo
plane.
I ended up paying $60 and sent my wheels back to Matco , they sent
me the correct setup that allows the clearance you need. If it was
untouched MAtco was replacing the wheels for $20.
-----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:31 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Mounting Main Wheel Question
In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
apparent
that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve.
There is
almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely
appreciative
of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my
thanks often
enough.
Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I
could
crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
Another
option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the
nut. I'm
not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
Comments?
Thanks,
bob
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arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
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="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
I changed tubes to the 90 degree stems, much easier to fill and no
conflict with the nut or axle.
grumpy
On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:31 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> In starting to mount my main wheels this evening, it became quickly
> apparent
> that there was an issue with the cotter pin and the tire valve.
> There is
> almost no clearance between the valve cover and the axel nut.
>
>
> A side note, I really like the extensions that Tim had made for the
> community. Although I've had them for a while, I am extremely
> appreciative
> of what Tim did for the community and probably can't express my
> thanks often
> enough.
>
>
> Back on topic, I was curious as to how others dealt with this. I
> could
> crimp the end a little tighter so that the pin sits a little lower.
> Another
> option would be to bend the top over to be more flat on top of the
> nut. I'm
> not sure how AC43.13 handle the lack of clearance issue.
>
>
> Comments?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
cleveland kit 199104 for main wheels and brakes and revised matco for the
nose with the matco axle and spacers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
> I just replaced the nose wheel and axel. Be sure to get the spacers for
> the
> axel too. I overlooked them initially.
>
> The Cleveland wheel set also includes your brakes, so you'll need to take
> that into consideration if you are planning on replacing those with Matco
> wheels too.
>
> I am having a problem with my nose wheel tube. It's only maintain air for
> about two days. I don't know if it's defective or if I may have pinched
> or
> punctured it myself. I guess I need to order a new tube. What do folks
> recommend?
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:28 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to wheels
> and tires that can be replaced?
>
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>
> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and the
> U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>
> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
> the
> nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above kept
> even with the replacements?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by
pulling a small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I
don't remember if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the
drain flange and have not been successful with the vacuum method.
Bobby Hughes
N416AS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
seem to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is
turning gummy and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they
used rivets on that particular piece as there is no way to snug them a
little.Any ideas on how to remedy this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Main Wheel Question |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
[quote="dlm34077(at)q.com"]The 10 needs the Matco axle. Those stainless sleeves
eventualy turn and score the fork. You might as well get the full matco solution
when you change the axle. I saw a 10 in Phoenix which some A&P had returned
to service where the nose wheel wobbled 15 degrees each side of vertical.
> ---
Kind of difficult to change the main wheel axle to Matco. :P
The nose wheel on the other hand, the Matco axle works great.
Just giving you a hard time. I've been guilty of reading too fast and coming to
the wrong conclusion too.
I also noticed what happened to my two photos that were pasted in my email and
how the forum renamed them to something with an extension that most browsers won't
recognize. Tim was spot on, so I probably won't take the time to upload
them again.
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326858#326858
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Been so long I forgot what came with what..
I guess for others that haven't gotten the fusellage than the windscreen
applies.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
No, you are correct. I just asked about the finish kit and Pascal threw
in a promo for the other items as well. :)
On 1/13/11 12:22 AM, Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
>
>
> I am a little confused. I purchased a quick-build fuselage and it came
> with the windscreen. The wingtips came with the self-build wing kit. But
> I get the impression that these come with the finish kit from the text
> below. Am I missing something? I guess it is too late for me to consider
> these products from vanaircrafttires.
>
> In a more confused state than usual.
>
> Dave
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement |
Thanks Werner, that is perfect.
-Sean #40303
On 1/13/11 1:33 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Sean,
>
> for the nosewheel:
>
> remove from Finishing Kit:
> 1x U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
> 1x U-1009 AXLE NOSE WHEEL
>
> order from Matco:
>
> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
> http://www.matcomfg.com/SPACERAXLE24KIT-idv-3681-44.html
> http://www.matcomfg.com/NOSEWHEEL5125-idv-2839-6.html
>
> that is:
> 1x WHLAXLE24 56.24$
> 1x WHLA24SPKIT
> 1x WHLNW511.25
>
> That is what I did, not yet mounted but should be the correct items,
> maybe Michael did as I ordered also a set for him.
>
> Werner
>
> #41122 empenage (reserved HB-YPK)
> #5794 flying (HB-YKP)
>
> On 13.01.2011 02:28, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
>> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
>> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
>> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
>> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>>
>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
>> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
>> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>>
>> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
>> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>>
>> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
>> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
>> kept even with the replacements?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
=0Agummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like i
t was =0Anot mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and se
e where that =0Agets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same
spot.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Bobby J. Hugh
es =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, January 13
, 2011 7:30:25 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks=0A=0A=0A=C2-The
late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside with
=0Aproseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling a
small =0Avacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I don
=99t remember if it was =0Adeluted. I have a very small leak around the dra
in flange and have not been =0Asuccessful with the vacuum method. =0A=0A=C2
-=0ABobby Hughes=0AN416AS=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=0A________________________
________=0A=0AFrom:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-rv
10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson=0ASent: Wednesday,
January 12, 2011 9:48 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RV10-Lis
t: Leaking tanks=0A=C2-=0AHas anybody else had problems with the quick bu
ild tanks leaking. Mine seem to =0Abe leaking around the outlet port. The s
ealant they used is turning gummy and it =0Ais more of a seep than a leak.I
cant believe they used rivets on that particular =0Apiece as there is no w
ay to snug them a little.Any ideas on how to remedy this? =0A=0A=C2-=0A
=C2-=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahttp://fo
========== =0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
too.
I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same spot.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling a
> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I dont remember
> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and have
> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>
>
> Bobby Hughes
>
> N416AS
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem
> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy
> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that
> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
> to remedy this?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
David,
Did you use 3/32" or 1/8" closed-end rivets? I have been unable to locate any less
than 1/8". If you have a source for 3/32 I would appreciate the information.
Thanks
Bobby Hughes
N416AS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
too.
I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same spot.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling a
> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I don't remember
> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and have
> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>
>
> Bobby Hughes
>
> N416AS
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem
> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy
> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that
> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
> to remedy this?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
How did you drill out the rivets without anything falling into the tanks? I
would think a vacuum would pick up the small pieces but usually I punch out
the drilled rivet and need access from the inside.
Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
too.
I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same
> spot.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling
> a
> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I dont
> remember
> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and
> have
> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>
>
> Bobby Hughes
>
> N416AS
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
> seem
> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning
> gummy
> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on
> that
> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
> to remedy this?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
Try access by removing the fuel float sensor.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
> How did you drill out the rivets without anything falling into the tanks?
> I would think a vacuum would pick up the small pieces but usually I punch
> out the drilled rivet and need access from the inside.
> Thanks!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Saylor
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 9:42 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
>
> I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
> leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
> haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
> too.
>
> I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
> rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
> proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
> The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
> live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
> fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
> wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is
>> the
>> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
>> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
>> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same
>> spot.
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
>> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by
>> pulling a
>> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I dont
>> remember
>> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and
>> have
>> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bobby Hughes
>>
>> N416AS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
>> seem
>> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning
>> gummy
>> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on
>> that
>> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on
>> how
>> to remedy this?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
I used 1/8" rivets from McMaster: 97524A050
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 10:20 AM, Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
>
> David,
>
> Did you use 3/32" or 1/8" closed-end rivets? I have been unable to locate any
less than 1/8". If you have a source for 3/32 I would appreciate the information.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bobby Hughes
> N416AS
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:42 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
> leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
> haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
> too.
>
> I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
> rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
> proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
> The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
> live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
> fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
> wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
>> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
>> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
>> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same spot.
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
>> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling a
>> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I don't remember
>> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and have
>> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bobby Hughes
>>
>> N416AS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem
>> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy
>> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that
>> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
>> to remedy this?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
Grease on the drill bit helps alot to capture chips. Other than that,
you just have to be pretty vigilant about getting all the pieces out.
We have a boroscope that fits into the screen outlet. A small piece
of sticky tape on the end of the scope grabs the rivet. Tap on the
bottom of the tank and they sort of migrate towards the screen by
gravity. By finding one tail at a time you can keep track. I only
changed a few, a whole bunch would be too tedious this way.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 10:24 AM, Pascal wrote:
>
> How did you drill out the rivets without anything falling into the tanks? I
> would think a vacuum would pick up the small pieces but usually I punch out
> the drilled rivet and need access from the inside.
> Thanks!
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Dave Saylor
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 9:42 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
>
> I've had leaking rivets in both wing walk areas, 4 in each side. It's
> leaving a nasty brown stain that's been steadily growing on the one I
> haven't repaired yet. Gets on your clothes if you sit on the wing,
> too.
>
> I tried loctite without any luck. I finally drilled out the leaking
> rivets and installed some closed-end blind rivets. I put a lot of
> proseal into the hole and all over the rivet before I popped it in.
> The new rivets aren't quite as flush as a standard rivet but I can
> live with that. It's been several months and so far the leaks are
> fixed. Still needs to be repainted though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:05 AM, Bruce Johnson
> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will give them a try. My concern is the
>> gummyness of the proseal around the leaks, its like really tacky, like it
>> was not mixed properly. I will attemp to remove and clean today and see
>> where that gets me. It sucks that it is both tanks at exactly the same
>> spot.
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Thu, January 13, 2011 7:30:25 AM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>> The late Mark Ritter had the same problem. He tried coating the outside
>> with proseal and several other fixes. He finally was successful by pulling
>> a
>> small vacuum on the tank and sucking proseal into the leak. I dont
>> remember
>> if it was deluted. I have a very small leak around the drain flange and
>> have
>> not been successful with the vacuum method.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bobby Hughes
>>
>> N416AS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 9:48 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
>> seem
>> to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning
>> gummy
>> and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on
>> that
>> particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
>> to remedy this?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/cont===============
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
One of my QB tanks leaked in exactly the same place (seemed to be leaking
between the riveted fitting and the rib). There's no visible proseal in
that area, though the proseal on the areas of the tank I can see looks fine
(not gummy as you describe). I put the finger strainer in and put new seal
around it. Now no air leak in testing, but I haven't filled with fuel yet.
-Rob
On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:48 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote:
> Has anybody else had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine
> seem to be leaking around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning
> gummy and it is more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets
> on that particular piece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas
> on how to remedy this?
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Basic Fluting Question |
Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with fluting some ribs. Some of my
ribs have a "spring" or twist to them caused by stamping them out (I
assume). I cannot seem to get the "spring" out of the ribs by fluting
them--no matter what I try. If I apply light pressure to the rib while
on a table they lie flat but the instant I let go they spring right back
so they are twisted. Am I doing something wrong??? My fluting does get
the rivet holes lined up good when the ribs lie flat on the table. I've
had a few in the past like this that I just installed and the clecoes
very easily pull the rib into place. Is this acceptable? If not, how
do I correct. I've attached a few pictures to better describe my issue.
Thanks in advance,
Bill (Feels like I'm going backwards) Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Basic Fluting Question |
Bill
We are in about the same spot in construction. What I did was use a
straight edge down the ribs and fluted to make the rib straight and not
curved like they are coming from Vans. The twist issue I do not think you
can fix, but the curve can be fluted away.
Good luck.
John
40864 Wings Wanting good weather so I can primer more parts.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 1:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Basic Fluting Question
Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with fluting some ribs. Some of my ribs
have a "spring" or twist to them caused by stamping them out (I assume). I
cannot seem to get the "spring" out of the ribs by fluting them--no matter
what I try. If I apply light pressure to the rib while on a table they lie
flat but the instant I let go they spring right back so they are twisted.
Am I doing something wrong??? My fluting does get the rivet holes lined up
good when the ribs lie flat on the table. I've had a few in the past like
this that I just installed and the clecoes very easily pull the rib into
place. Is this acceptable? If not, how do I correct. I've attached a few
pictures to better describe my issue.
Thanks in advance,
Bill (Feels like I'm going backwards) Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vijay Pisini <vijaypisini(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | extra fuel tanks - Outboard fuel tank addition - Structual |
analysis results
DLM,=0A=0AThanks for the info.=0A=0AAll in the list, =0A=0AI'm attaching th
e Word document where the results are included.- For most part =0Athey ar
e in-line with-our expectation.- However, some questions still need to
be =0Aanswered.- I know that I got a lot of criticism for my initial thre
ad content, =0Abut we all got to learn a lot of points.- These results ar
e for you all to see =0Aand comment (positive, negative, devil's advocate t
ype etc).- This email group =0Ais great even though I get rough replies..
.but those replies are all interesting =0Aand something to learn from as th
ey are from different perspectives and =0Aappreciate those perspectives...g
ood points to gather before I take my own =0Adecision.- Thanks.=0A=0A=0Av
j=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: DLM <dlm34077(at)q.co
m>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, January 10, 2011 6:33:00 PM
=0ASubject: RV10-List: extra fuel tanks=0A=0A=0AI spoke with Jim Younkin to
day about their extra fuel tanks on the 10. He stated =0Athat the proper co
ntact is John Nys of Tulsa. They have an extra tank outboard =0Aof the main
s and a ball check valve installed in the area between the tanks. =0AFlow b
etween tanks is-gravity and the valve can be opened/closed externally.
=0ATherefore no wiring or transfer pumps are included. The outboard tanks h
ave =0Avented fuel caps but no other-vent. Long range flight means closin
g the valves , =0Afilling all tanks and then opening the valves before take
off. Standard use of =0Athe fuel selector should-provide for balancing th
e fuel load.--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Johnson" <noconwud(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | When does the Finish Kit price increase? |
I must admit I thought they'd have done it right after the New Year.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
> Thanks Werner, that is perfect.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> On 1/13/11 1:33 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>> Sean,
>>
>> for the nosewheel:
>>
>> remove from Finishing Kit:
>> 1x U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>> 1x U-1009 AXLE NOSE WHEEL
>>
>> order from Matco:
>>
>> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
>> http://www.matcomfg.com/SPACERAXLE24KIT-idv-3681-44.html
>> http://www.matcomfg.com/NOSEWHEEL5125-idv-2839-6.html
>>
>> that is:
>> 1x WHLAXLE24 56.24$
>> 1x WHLA24SPKIT
>> 1x WHLNW511.25
>>
>> That is what I did, not yet mounted but should be the correct items,
>> maybe Michael did as I ordered also a set for him.
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> #41122 empenage (reserved HB-YPK)
>> #5794 flying (HB-YKP)
>>
>> On 13.01.2011 02:28, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>>
>>> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase. I am
>>> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
>>> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
>>> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
>>> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>>>
>>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
>>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
>>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
>>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
>>> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
>>> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>>> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>>>
>>> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
>>> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>>>
>>> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it just
>>> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part above
>>> kept even with the replacements?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> -Sean #40303
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: When does the Finish Kit price increase? |
Feb. 1st. It's on the bottom of their homepage.
On 1/13/11 6:37 PM, Andrew Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I must admit I thought they'd have done it right after the New Year.
>
> Andy
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens"
>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Wheel Replacement
>
>
>>
>> Thanks Werner, that is perfect.
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>> On 1/13/11 1:33 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>
>>> Sean,
>>>
>>> for the nosewheel:
>>>
>>> remove from Finishing Kit:
>>> 1x U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>>> 1x U-1009 AXLE NOSE WHEEL
>>>
>>> order from Matco:
>>>
>>> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
>>> http://www.matcomfg.com/SPACERAXLE24KIT-idv-3681-44.html
>>> http://www.matcomfg.com/NOSEWHEEL5125-idv-2839-6.html
>>>
>>> that is:
>>> 1x WHLAXLE24 56.24$
>>> 1x WHLA24SPKIT
>>> 1x WHLNW511.25
>>>
>>> That is what I did, not yet mounted but should be the correct items,
>>> maybe Michael did as I ordered also a set for him.
>>>
>>> Werner
>>>
>>> #41122 empenage (reserved HB-YPK)
>>> #5794 flying (HB-YKP)
>>>
>>> On 13.01.2011 02:28, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Getting ready to order the Finish Kit prior to the price increase.
>>>> I am
>>>> substituting a few items for aftermarket versions, but am having some
>>>> trouble finding replacement part numbers for the wheels and tires. I
>>>> believe the following items are from the Finish Kit with regards to
>>>> wheels and tires that can be replaced?
>>>>
>>>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10
>>>> 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10
>>>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR
>>>> 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6
>>>> 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6" RV-10 WHEELS SETS
>>>> 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS
>>>> 1.00 U-1009 AXLE
>>>>
>>>> I believe the nose wheel NW501.25is replaced by Matco WHLNW511.25 and
>>>> the U-1009 is replaced by the Matco Axle?
>>>>
>>>> Can the tubes be kept and just replace the tires and wheels? Is it
>>>> just
>>>> the nose wheel or the mains too? Is the CLEVELAND wheel sets part
>>>> above
>>>> kept even with the replacements?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> -Sean #40303
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N210KH wearing new duds |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I finally got to pick up my RV10 from Flying Colors of Texas paint shop in Texas
today. White pearl, maroon and silver metallic stripes with clear coat topping.
Mark Zello and his bunch did a really nice job of finishing my airplane.
Now back to flying and having fun.
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326962#326962
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2053_203.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg2052_442.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Basic Fluting Question |
With some work, they will lay fairly flat. I prefer pliers like in the
attached file that makes a thinner flute. Pliers with wide flutes didn't
work well for me. Lay the rib on a flat surface with the rib flanges
pointing up. I pick the side of the rib that doesn't want to lie down and I
very lightly flute that section starting in the middle working back and
forth to each end of rib. Press down slightly on the web as you do this. It
should start laying down. I also work the ribs by hand by bending and
twisting a little. Once the rib lays as flat as you feel it's going to, the
flanges are checked to make sure they are close to 90 degrees to the web so
the skin fits flush to the flange.
Just watch how the rib reacts to fluting and flute lightly. Some flutes
will need additional fluting. Some flutes may be fluted too much and seamer
pliers (see attached file) can be used to squeeze out some of the fluting.
Once you get the hang of it, it gets easier.
Jerry Calvert
RV6
N296JC
On 1/13/2011 3:05 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
> Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with fluting some ribs. Some of my
> ribs have a "spring" or twist to them caused by stamping them out (I
> assume). I cannot seem to get the "spring" out of the ribs by fluting
> them--no matter what I try. If I apply light pressure to the rib while
> on a table they lie flat but the instant I let go they spring right back
> so they are twisted. Am I doing something wrong??? My fluting does get
> the rivet holes lined up good when the ribs lie flat on the table. I've
> had a few in the past like this that I just installed and the clecoes
> very easily pull the rib into place. Is this acceptable? If not, how do
> I correct. I've attached a few pictures to better describe my issue.
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill (Feels like I'm going backwards) Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can install
before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now reluctantly order
a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there have any input, recommendations
or experience with the new 406 ELTs?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control stick connector |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
What are builders using to connect the infinity grip wires to the panel? I saw
some pictures a while ago that showed the connector mounted to the landing gear
bracket. Which connector is being used. 25 D-sub? I didn't order the longer
cables.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326973#326973
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Control stick connector |
I used the 25 D-sub...
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 8:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Control stick connector
What are builders using to connect the infinity grip wires to the panel? I
saw some pictures a while ago that showed the connector mounted to the
landing gear bracket. Which connector is being used. 25 D-sub? I didn't
order the longer cables.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326973#326973
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
OK I cleaned all the gummy sealant out of the way and did an air test and f
ound =0Ait was leaking between the rivets. I thought maybe it was the fitti
ng but after =0Achanging them out my conclusion is between the rivets. I pu
t the fittings back =0Ain place and put a vacuum on the tank and tried some
green loc tite. I am =0Aletting it dry over night and then will air test a
gain tomorrow. I might even =0Atry some epoxy around the edges of the fitti
ng before air tests. By the way the =0Atanks can take quite a bit of pressu
re, my plan was around 3 lbs but the valve =0Agot kicked and it went up to
20lbs, really made the leaks standout though. The =0Atank came out with no
visible problems. After-I get the left one -one stopped on =0Ato the ri
ght. Seems there-was a problem on the day my tanks were assembled in =0At
he Philippines.----=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________
=0AFrom: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASe
nt: Thu, January 13, 2011 1:21:22 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Leaking tank
s=0A=0A=0AOne of my QB tanks leaked in exactly the same place (seemed to be
leaking =0Abetween the riveted fitting and the rib).- There's no visible
proseal in that =0Aarea, though the proseal on the areas of the tank I can
see looks fine (not =0Agummy as you describe).- I put the finger straine
r in and put new seal around =0Ait.- Now no air leak in testing, but I ha
ven't filled with fuel yet.=0A=0A-Rob=0A=0A=0AOn Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 7:48
PM, Bruce Johnson =0Awrote:=0A=0AHas anybody el
se had problems with the quick build tanks leaking. Mine seem to =0Abe leak
ing around the outlet port. The sealant they used is turning gummy and it
=0Ais more of a seep than a leak.I cant believe they used rivets on that pa
rticular =0Apiece as there is no way to snug them a little.Any ideas on how
to remedy this? =0A=0A>=0A> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List =0A>ttp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matron
ics.com/contribution =0A>=0A=0A=0A-- =0ARob Kochman=0ARV-10 "Finishing"
================= =0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
You would have swapped out the ACK at some point anyway. Not a good
product, certainly not one I would trust to save me, if the old 121.5
unit was any indicator. We've been installing Ameri-Kings and they
seem OK. Kannad seems like better quality but more $$.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 7:27 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can install
before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now reluctantly order
a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there have any input, recommendations
or experience with the new 406 ELTs?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
Dave,
could you be more specific, what was bad on that product please. The
design of the 406 does look pretty well done from what I did see but if
you have more details I would be more then glad to have them for a decision.
Many thanks
#41122 Empenage (HB-YPK reserved)
#5794 HB-YKP flying
On 14.01.2011 05:25, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor
>
> You would have swapped out the ACK at some point anyway. Not a good
> product, certainly not one I would trust to save me, if the old 121.5
> unit was any indicator. We've been installing Ameri-Kings and they
> seem OK. Kannad seems like better quality but more $$.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 7:27 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"
>>
>> I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can install
before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now reluctantly
order a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there have any input,
recommendations or experience with the new 406 ELTs?
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I used 16-pin CPC connectors under the seats and then wired the sticks together
under the seats as necessary and then wired them up to the panel through the
side panels.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Jan 13, 2011, at 10:32 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> What are builders using to connect the infinity grip wires to the panel? I saw
some pictures a while ago that showed the connector mounted to the landing
gear bracket. Which connector is being used. 25 D-sub? I didn't order the longer
cables.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326973#326973
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I've been waiting for mine for a year - already paid for. I'm being told it should
be out by March....
--------
#40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327004#327004
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)EARTHLINK.NET> |
I used Aerotronics for my panel and they had a Circular Plastic Connector (CPC)
by Amp already hanging there under the panel. All I had to do is put together
the other half of the CPC plug with the wires from the stick.
John
--------
#40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327005#327005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I have been watching this for a year too. I finally canceled my order with AS.
http://www.ackavionics.com/406%20Page.html
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327006#327006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
I've seen a lot of problems with the ACKs that don't show up in other
brands nearly as often. Failed G switch and false tripping due to RF
are the common failures. They replace it no questions asked but it
got to the point where it seemed that every one I inspected was
broken.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 2:49 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> could you be more specific, what was bad on that product please. The design
> of the 406 does look pretty well done from what I did see but if you have
> more details I would be more then glad to have them for a decision.
>
> Many thanks
>
> #41122 Empenage (HB-YPK reserved)
> #5794 HB-YKP flying
>
> On 14.01.2011 05:25, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>> Saylor
>>
>> You would have swapped out the ACK at some point anyway. Not a good
>> product, certainly not one I would trust to save me, if the old 121.5
>> unit was any indicator. We've been installing Ameri-Kings and they
>> seem OK. Kannad seems like better quality but more $$.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 7:27 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have been waiting for the ACK-04 ELT to come out on the market so I can
>>> install before my plane is done. I am giving up on it and will now
>>> reluctantly order a different 406 ELT (for more money). Anyone out there
>>> have any input, recommendations or experience with the new 406 ELTs?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Cust. #40936
>>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>>> N801VR reserved
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326972#326972
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I noticed the ACK's are a little heavier too. I guess one more pound isn't too
bad but if I mount it out on the tail it is.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327012#327012
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Just finished this yesterday. I used a 25-pin d-sub zip tied to the landing
gear mount. Seems to work fine.
-Rob
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> What are builders using to connect the infinity grip wires to the panel? I
> saw some pictures a while ago that showed the connector mounted to the
> landing gear bracket. Which connector is being used. 25 D-sub? I didn't
> order the longer cables.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=326973#326973
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I have the Artex 406. The SAR guys can pick up its signal ground to ground from
more than 10 miles away. Ask me how I know.
Jim Berry
N15JB
Phase I
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327035#327035
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tony Dubeansky <mrdubea(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
If you want to wait and are not super concerned, it is my understanding that you
do not need ANY ELT during Phase 1 flight testing due to the confined flight
area. Buy a SPOT Messenger and wait it out.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327064#327064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions |
Hi
Today I mounted my TT servo. After studying the detailed install pix, I did
a search of the archives to find out where to drill the bell crank. I found
Jay's email which has a small but critical typo.
When I marked the location indicated, it didn't seem to match the location
shown in the install pix. I confirmed with TT that the bell crank hole
should be 2.5" up from the center hole and .25" aft of a line drawn beween
the center hole and top hole. The result is consistent with the pix.
I only mention this as the TT install docs are abysmal. The other prior
posts (circa 2007) were very useful. I would be lost without this list...
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
Sent: August-02-07 3:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions
I spoke with Zach at TT. They are working on AutoCAD diagrams, but do not
have them ready at present...
The bellcrank hole position is not critical, but should be located 2.25" up
and .5" aft from the center hole.
The TT bracket supplied by Vans in the -10 kit should be discarded. Instead,
use the one supplied with the servo.
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127234#127234
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
I would recommend installing .063" spacer in bellcrank where your hole is drilled.
Otherwise you cannot torque bolt without deforming the bellcrank. I bet there
is a bunch out there without this installed.
During your annual inspection keep an eye on the cable around the phenolic pulley(torque
enhancer). If it breaks it could limit up elevator travel as it jams
against mounting bracket.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 39 Control System.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327072#327072
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Basic Fluting Question |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
I found lining up a flexible 24" steel rule with the hole edges to work the best.
The edge distance always varies due to the holes being punched then the rib
forming. By lying them on a table you may get a straight sheetmetal edge but
not a straight set of holes. The pre-punched skin holes are in a straight line
so you want to have the holes in the ribs in a straight line not the edge of
the metal flange. I just did a little at a time and if I overdid it just went
back and took some out. After a few ribs you know just how much force to use and
where.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 39 Control System.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327073#327073
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | Dimple Leading Edge |
I am dimpling the leading edge skins and can easily dimple the edge
holes and about four holes into the skin with my DRDT-2 dimpling tool.
The handle gets in the way of dimpling any further. I would like to
bend the skin flat but I guess I would then not have a leading edge
skin. :-( How have others dimpled their leading edges and fuel tanks
without ruining the preformed bend in the skin?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com" <fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimple Leading Edge |
Can you reverse the dimple dies and have the skin go under the DRDT2? Or
use a pop rivet dimple.
Jim
40603
-----Original message-----
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 15, 2011 18:39:24 GMT+00:00
Subject: RV10-List: Dimple Leading Edge
I am dimpling the leading edge skins and can easily dimple the edge
holes and about four holes into the skin with my DRDT-2 dimpling tool.
The handle gets in the way of dimpling any further. I would like to
bend the skin flat but I guess I would then not have a leading edge
skin. :-( How have others dimpled their leading edges and fuel tanks
without ruining the preformed bend in the skin?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dimple Leading Edge |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
I used my pop rivet dimple dies.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327139#327139
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
True, 91.207 states it's not required during flight testing but I bet you won't
get an air worthiness cert without one installed.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327140#327140
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
Shawn,
Here is a link to my RV-10 album showing the stick installation.
http://www.ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_4858055#imageID=87117445
--------
Ivan K.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (60 hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327151#327151
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go inside the
stick instead of exterior?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327154#327154
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Thanks Ivan,
That is where I saw the original pictures months ago and forgot where I saw them.
That's perfect.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327155#327155
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
RV10-List: Re: Control stick connector
Yes. Much cleaner install IMHO.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *rvdave
*Sent:* Saturday, January 15, 2011 6:16 PM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: Re: Control stick connector
Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go inside
the stick instead of exterior?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327154#327154
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Rib Fluting Video (was Basic Fluting Question) |
Here is an interesting video on Fluting RV12 ribs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqNoVAQLo0M
Jerry Calvert
RV6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10flyer
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 10:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Basic Fluting Question
I found lining up a flexible 24" steel rule with the hole edges to work the
best. The edge distance always varies due to the holes being punched then
the rib forming. By lying them on a table you may get a straight sheetmetal
edge but not a straight set of holes. The pre-punched skin holes are in a
straight line so you want to have the holes in the ribs in a straight line
not the edge of the metal flange. I just did a little at a time and if I
overdid it just went back and took some out. After a few ribs you know just
how much force to use and where.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 39 Control System.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327073#327073
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
Yep...just a hole in the down tube so you can push the wire into
the stick...it fits in and comes right out the bottom.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601160005.jpg
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601160003.jpg
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601220008.jpg
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601170007.jpg
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 1/15/2011 8:16 PM, rvdave wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave"
>
> Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go inside
the stick instead of exterior?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327154#327154
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib Fluting Video (was Basic Fluting Question) |
Very informative video. Thanks.
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)att.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 9:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rib Fluting Video (was Basic Fluting Question)
>
> Here is an interesting video on Fluting RV12 ribs.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqNoVAQLo0M
>
> Jerry Calvert
> RV6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10flyer
> Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 10:58 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Basic Fluting Question
>
>
> I found lining up a flexible 24" steel rule with the hole edges to work
> the
> best. The edge distance always varies due to the holes being punched then
> the rib forming. By lying them on a table you may get a straight
> sheetmetal
> edge but not a straight set of holes. The pre-punched skin holes are in a
> straight line so you want to have the holes in the ribs in a straight line
> not the edge of the metal flange. I just did a little at a time and if I
> overdid it just went back and took some out. After a few ribs you know
> just
> how much force to use and where.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 39 Control System.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327073#327073
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Nolin <gnolin(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
I was able to get the blue cable into the tube by filing a little relief notch
to make the 90 degree turn into a hole I drilled into the curved part of the stick.
I'll get a picture that shows this better than words can describe.
Hank Nolin = rv-10 Soon
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 15, 2011, at 8:16 PM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
> Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go inside
the stick instead of exterior?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327154#327154
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
rvdave wrote:
> Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go inside
the stick instead of exterior?
I didn't bother. I used lacing to firmly attach it to the back of the stick, and
then had Abby at Flightline Interiors make a "boot" for the stick in my upholstery
color - looks fantastic. About eighty bucks and worth it.
John
--------
#40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327227#327227
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
I did, I put a 90 degree bend in the upper stick. pretty much followed Tim
Olson's site for doing mine. Looks much cleaner to me, but it does take some
work to make it come through the tube to the bottom. Not hard and looks much
more mice than leaving it on with zip ties. A small boot off the bottom
panel into the flightstick and painting the stick would be nice. I think I
took this picture from Greg Hale's site.
With that said, a full flightstick boot would cover the stick as well and
look equally nice.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 6:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Control stick connector
>
> Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go
> inside the stick instead of exterior?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327154#327154
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Anyone interested in a free wing cradle in SLC?
Has four casters and carpet ready to use and holds both wings.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327246#327246
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dimple Leading Edge |
| From: | "mouser" <mouser(at)mouser.org> |
I just did mine last week with the DRDT-2, the only holes I wasn't able to do were
the two stall warning holes on the right wing. I did have to reverse the
dies so that the skin bent down below the DRDT-2, and I needed a couple people
to help support the skin while I maneuvered it around, but we knocked both skins
out in under an hour on my lunch break.
--------
RV-10 #40988
http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
KLAM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327250#327250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
Hi Pascal
That looks like a beautiful interior in your -10.
One question on the infinity cable - how did you handle the cable at the bottom
end if the control stick?
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-01-16, at 7:40 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I did, I put a 90 degree bend in the upper stick. pretty much followed Tim Olson's
site for doing mine. Looks much cleaner to me, but it does take some work
to make it come through the tube to the bottom. Not hard and looks much more
mice than leaving it on with zip ties. A small boot off the bottom panel into
the flightstick and painting the stick would be nice. I think I took this picture
from Greg Hale's site.
> With that said, a full flightstick boot would cover the stick as well and look
equally nice.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 6:16 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Control stick connector
>
>>
>> Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go inside
the stick instead of exterior?
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 flying
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327154#327154
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
Dont I wish!! That is Greg Hale's interior
(http://nwacaptain.com/rv10_home.html) Just using as an example of how good
it looks with the small boot and the stick painted.
As far as the cable on the bottom, comes straight out into a service loop
and held in place with a clamp on the landing gear bracket to allow for all
the play the stick will need.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 4:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control stick connector
Hi Pascal
That looks like a beautiful interior in your -10.
One question on the infinity cable - how did you handle the cable at the
bottom end if the control stick?
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-01-16, at 7:40 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I did, I put a 90 degree bend in the upper stick. pretty much followed Tim
> Olson's site for doing mine. Looks much cleaner to me, but it does take
> some work to make it come through the tube to the bottom. Not hard and
> looks much more mice than leaving it on with zip ties. A small boot off
> the bottom panel into the flightstick and painting the stick would be
> nice. I think I took this picture from Greg Hale's site.
> With that said, a full flightstick boot would cover the stick as well and
> look equally nice.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 6:16 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Control stick connector
>
>>
>> Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go
>> inside the stick instead of exterior?
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 flying
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327154#327154
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
Here are some picture of the stick covers I made for my sticks. I have the
cable on the outside of the stick and these have a nice zipper in the front.
I have made these for some other builders as well. They are very easy to put
on.
Geoff Combs
President
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control stick connector
Hi Pascal
That looks like a beautiful interior in your -10.
One question on the infinity cable - how did you handle the cable at the
bottom end if the control stick?
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-01-16, at 7:40 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I did, I put a 90 degree bend in the upper stick. pretty much followed Tim
Olson's site for doing mine. Looks much cleaner to me, but it does take some
work to make it come through the tube to the bottom. Not hard and looks much
more mice than leaving it on with zip ties. A small boot off the bottom
panel into the flightstick and painting the stick would be nice. I think I
took this picture from Greg Hale's site.
> With that said, a full flightstick boot would cover the stick as well and
look equally nice.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 6:16 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Control stick connector
>
>>
>> Has anyone drilled into the control sticks so the blue cable could go
inside the stick instead of exterior?
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 flying
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327154#327154
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control stick connector |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I had a steering wheel reupholstery guy wrap the control sticks and the windhsield
bar with black leather and red stiches. I'll be running the cables inside
the sticks.
Lenny
--------
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327309#327309
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/stick_800_965.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dcgeib(at)juno.com" <dcgeib(at)juno.com> |
I am interested but where is SLC? Dan
____________________________________________________________
Obama Urges Homeowners to Refinance
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4d34c44fd37f5cbaae4st02vuc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Salt Lake City Utah....
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dcgeib(at)juno.com
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Cradle
I am interested but where is SLC?
Dan
____________________________________________________________
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3132/4d34c44fd37f5cbaae4st02vuc> Obama
Urges Homeowners to Refinance
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3132/4d34c44fd37f5cbaae4st02vuc>
SeeRefinanceRates.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | plane power alternator |
Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and breakers
to the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked the
connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all pins
showed open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a
larger resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to
the manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part
(regulator,diodes and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another
builder suggested a blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After
talking with Plane power that tube is not required. It is a Van's
carryover recommendation from about 10 years ago. The new alternators
have dual cooling fans and do not require blast tube cooling air. Will
advise when they determine something. Part time is 375 hours between
4/2008 and 1/2011.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dcgeib(at)juno.com" <dcgeib(at)juno.com> |
Sorry,I am in PA, too far to pick it up. Dan
____________________________________________________________
Globe Life Insurance
$1* Buys $50,000 Life Insurance. Adults or Children. No Medical Exam.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4d34fd3199030719762st05vuc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the same
time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it in
and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
there was any charge.
The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the back.
The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
better than the originals.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM wrote:
> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and breakers to
> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked the
> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all pins showed
> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a larger
> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to the
> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part (regulator,diodes
> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder suggested a
> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with Plane power
> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation from about
> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do not require
> blast tube cooling air.Will advise when they determine something. Part time
> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
Hello Dave,
I wonder, I've heard meanwhile a few reports about them quitting after a
few 100 hours. I know they are not yet a long-time in the game and you
hear only when things are going wrong.
Would you still recommend them or should we wait for 3-4 years more
service history?
br Werner
On 18.01.2011 05:32, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor
>
> Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the same
> time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it in
> and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
> there was any charge.
>
> The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the back.
> The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
> better than the originals.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM wrote:
>> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and breakers to
>> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked the
>> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all pins showed
>> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a larger
>> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to the
>> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part (regulator,diodes
>> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder suggested a
>> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with Plane power
>> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation from about
>> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do not require
>> blast tube cooling air. Will advise when they determine something. Part time
>> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
I will be checking with Vans to determine when I received mine. I bought
virtually the entire 10 kit between 2004 - 2005 so I may have gotten one
of the earlier ones. Mine was no false low voltage as the voltmeter
reading at the buss was always battery voltage with or without the
alternator ON. They tried to help me confirm that the problem was
actually the alternator before shipping it to them. I went so far as to
drive over to my former avionics instructor's shop and he confirmed that
their was high resistance on the field pin. It ws 500+ ohms when it
should have been 4 ohms. At 12V the field should allow about 3A but with
a 500 ohm resistance it would allow about .024A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane power alternator
>
> Hello Dave,
>
> I wonder, I've heard meanwhile a few reports about them quitting after
a
> few 100 hours. I know they are not yet a long-time in the game and you
> hear only when things are going wrong.
>
> Would you still recommend them or should we wait for 3-4 years more
> service history?
>
> br Werner
>
> On 18.01.2011 05:32, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave
Saylor
>>
>> Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the
same
>> time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it
in
>> and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
>> there was any charge.
>>
>> The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the back.
>> The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
>> better than the originals.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM wrote:
>>> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and
breakers to
>>> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked
the
>>> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all pins
showed
>>> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a larger
>>> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to the
>>> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part
(regulator,diodes
>>> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder
suggested a
>>> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with
Plane power
>>> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation
from about
>>> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do not
require
>>> blast tube cooling air. Will advise when they determine something.
Part time
>>> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
Yeah, I would recommend them. The one I replaced it with has been on
for several hundred more. We just passed 750 hours. I think we
changed the first one around 300 hours.
I've done a lot of mx on B&C regulators over the years. They usually
get installed in the most inconvenient of places, so not having to
deal with a regulator is a big plus for me.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jan 18, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Hello Dave,
>
> I wonder, I've heard meanwhile a few reports about them quitting after a few
> 100 hours. I know they are not yet a long-time in the game and you hear only
> when things are going wrong.
>
> Would you still recommend them or should we wait for 3-4 years more service
> history?
>
> br Werner
>
> On 18.01.2011 05:32, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>> Saylor
>>
>> Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the same
>> time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it in
>> and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
>> there was any charge.
>>
>> The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the back.
>> The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
>> better than the originals.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM wrote:
>>>
>>> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and breakers
>>> to
>>> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked the
>>> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all pins
>>> showed
>>> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a larger
>>> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to the
>>> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part
>>> (regulator,diodes
>>> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder suggested a
>>> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with Plane
>>> power
>>> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation from
>>> about
>>> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do not
>>> require
>>> blast tube cooling air. Will advise when they determine something. Part
>>> time
>>> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plane power alternator |
After checking with Vans, I found that the unit received with the
finishing kit in 2005 did not have overvoltage protection and was
exchanged in June -July 2007 for one with over voltage protection.
----- Original Message -----
From: DLM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane power alternator
I will be checking with Vans to determine when I received mine. I
bought virtually the entire 10 kit between 2004 - 2005 so I may have
gotten one of the earlier ones. Mine was no false low voltage as the
voltmeter reading at the buss was always battery voltage with or without
the alternator ON. They tried to help me confirm that the problem was
actually the alternator before shipping it to them. I went so far as to
drive over to my former avionics instructor's shop and he confirmed that
their was high resistance on the field pin. It ws 500+ ohms when it
should have been 4 ohms. At 12V the field should allow about 3A but with
a 500 ohm resistance it would allow about .024A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane power alternator
>
> Hello Dave,
>
> I wonder, I've heard meanwhile a few reports about them quitting
after a
> few 100 hours. I know they are not yet a long-time in the game and
you
> hear only when things are going wrong.
>
> Would you still recommend them or should we wait for 3-4 years more
> service history?
>
> br Werner
>
> On 18.01.2011 05:32, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave
Saylor
>>
>> Our first one was purchased in 2007 and worked fine for about the
same
>> time. It started giving a false low-voltage warning, so we sent it
in
>> and it was replaced. It took a few phone calls but I don't think
>> there was any charge.
>>
>> The one that failed had kind of an added-on looking box on the
back.
>> The newer ones are completely internally contained and look a lot
>> better than the originals.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 3:11 PM, DLM wrote:
>>> Mine stopped alternating on Saturday. After checking wiring and
breakers to
>>> the alternator and checking the armature for magnetism. I checked
the
>>> connector on the unit and found that at a low ohm setting, all
pins showed
>>> open for the field. After a friend changed the setting for a
larger
>>> resistance scale, the field pin read 500+ ohms so it was sent to
the
>>> manufacturer. Before sending we did change the only part
(regulator,diodes
>>> and brushes). That did not solve the problem. Another builder
suggested a
>>> blast tube of cooling air and we constructed. After talking with
Plane power
>>> that tube is not required. It is a Van's carryover recommendation
from about
>>> 10 years ago. The new alternators have dual cooling fans and do
not require
>>> blast tube cooling air. Will advise when they determine something.
Part time
>>> is 375 hours between 4/2008 and 1/2011.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ==========
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 V
A-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasti
ng teflon cores.
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RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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