RV10-Archive.digest.vol-hq

January 18, 2011 - Present



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From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Fuel tank skins
Date: Jan 18, 2011
Hello again. I'm trying to put my fuel tank ribs into the skin and I cannot get both sides lined up. I can get clecoes into one side but then the other side is way off. By "forcing" the rib into the skin I can get some of the holes within 1/8 - 1/4 inch from lining up on the unclecoed side. It's almost like the skin didn't get enough "roll" when they were rolled at the factory. Another possibility is maybe it has lost some of it's bend over time lying in the crate (I've had my wing kit for a couple years now). Anybody have any suggestions? Is there an "easy" way to put a little more bend or "roll" into the skin? Again, thanks in advance for any suggestions, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2011
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re hoses
Anybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including part numbers, typ e, =0Alength, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the fuel =0Acontroller-and the flow divder?- Be nice to have all the parts before starting =0Athe switch.=0AThanks, Don McDonald=0A=0AHey Jim,-ever coming to Texas for a visit?-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________________ ____=0AFrom: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASe nt: Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re hoses=0A=0AI just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00--- VA-138- 38 .00- =0AVA-102- $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and h ad long lasting =0Ateflon cores.=0A=0A=0A=0Awww.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1 0-List"; =0Atarget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =0Aronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com=0AMatt Dralle , List Admin.=0A======0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A-- =0ARob Kochman=0ARV- 10 "Finishing" Kit=0AWoodinville, WA (near Seattle)=0Ahttp://kochman.net/N8 19K=0A=0A get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =0Ap:/ /forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A=0A ============ =0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2011
From: "Sean S. Blair" <dogsbark(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank skins
Bill, The tank skins are known to be tough to deal with initially.=C2- With the skin relaxed and open,=C2-place clecoes in the first several holes on th e top portion of the leading edge for several interior ribs.=C2- Next, pl ace several clecoes in the leading edge holes for the bottom.=C2- From th ere, it should get easier. Sean Blair COS ----- Original Message ----- From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 2:47:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank skins Hello again.=C2- I'm trying to put my fuel tank ribs into the skin and I cannot get both sides lined up.=C2- I can get clecoes into one side but t hen the other side is way off.=C2- By "forcing" the rib into the skin I c an get some of the holes within 1/8 - 1/4 inch from lining up on the unclec oed side.=C2- It's almost like the skin didn't get enough "roll" when the y were rolled at the factory.=C2- Another possibility is maybe it has los t some of it's bend over time lying in the crate (I've had my wing kit for a couple years now). Anybody have any suggestions?=C2- Is there an "easy" way to put a little more bend or "roll" into the skin? Again, thanks in advance for any suggestions, ============ == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re hoses
Date: Jan 18, 2011
No, but in about two weeks, I'll need that data too. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 4:47 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re hoses Anybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including part numbers, type, length, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the fuel controller and the flow divder? Be nice to have all the parts before starting the switch. Thanks, Don McDonald Hey Jim, ever coming to Texas for a visit? _____ From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> Sent: Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re hoses I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 VA-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasting teflon cores. www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22> "; target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com/> Matt Dralle, List Admin. ==== -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matron=================== <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> Email Forum - Features Navigator to browse such as List Un/Subscription, Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, much more: http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re hoses
Date: Jan 18, 2011
Interesting pricing... VA-189 is half price of Van's, but VA-102 is twice as expensive. Did you get pricing on the oil hoses? Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 3:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re hoses I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 VA-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasting teflon cores. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: ASP switches
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2011
I would like to let everyone know that Aerosport Products is now offering ASP switches. These are LED lit. Check them out at www.aerosportproducts.com/switches.htm -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Flying 40033 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327479#327479 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/n829gw_switches_154.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/switchpanel2_153.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Re hoses
From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2011
That is because 102 has firesleeve from bonaco-does not from vans-jim -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> Sent: Tue, Jan 18, 2011 2:43 pm Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re hoses Interesting pricing VA-189 is half price of Van=99s, but VA-102 is twice as expensive. Did you get pricing on the oil hoses? Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 3:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re hoses I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 V A-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasti ng teflon cores. -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel tank skins
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2011
Make sure your ribs have a smooth radius or the rib tips will dent your skins as there is a far amount of pressure when you install them. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327480#327480 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Re hoses
From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2011
I will come to Texas this fall are you getting any flying in?Does anyone ha ve any info on G900 fuel flow senders as far as what is used and where they are placed.Don brings up a good point that is important information before planing hoses. -----Original Message----- From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Tue, Jan 18, 2011 1:50 pm Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re hoses Anybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including part numbers, typ e, length, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the fu el controller and the flow divder? Be nice to have all the parts before st arting the switch. Thanks, Don McDonald Hey Jim, ever coming to Texas for a visit? From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> Sent: Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re hoses I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 V A-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasti ng teflon cores. www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; target="_blank">http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com Matt Dralle, List Admin. ==== -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ://forums.matronics.com lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matron=================== -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2011
Subject: Re hoses
Relocating the FF Transducer for our G900X to between the FM300 and the Spider resolved significant issues I had with inaccurate, bouncing and low pressure readings. We do not have the =93red cube=94 transducer. Robin *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *pilotdds *Sent:* Tuesday, January 18, 2011 2:58 PM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re hoses I will come to Texas this fall are you getting any flying in?Does anyone have any info on G900 fuel flow senders as far as what is used and where they are placed.Don brings up a good point that is important information before planing hoses. -----Original Message----- From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Tue, Jan 18, 2011 1:50 pm Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re hoses Anybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including part numbers, type, length, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the fuel controller and the flow divder? Be nice to have all the parts before starting the switch. Thanks, Don McDonald Hey Jim, ever coming to Texas for a visit? ------------------------------ *From:* pilotdds *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Sent:* Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM *Subject:* RV10-List: Re hoses I just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00 VA-138 38.00 VA-102 $38.00 . All hoses including 102 were firesleeved and had long lasting teflon cores. www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R V10-List>; target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com Matt Dralle, List Admin. ==== -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K * * * * *get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* *p://forums.matronics.com* *blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution* * * *http://www.matron=================== =* * * * * * * *get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* *p://forums.matronics.com* *blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution* * * * * * * ===========* ===========* ===========* ===========* * * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Re hoses
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2011
I believe the G3X uses the same as the G900. The instructions show both the red cube EI FT-60 and the Flo-scan 201B-6. The red cube has double the k-factor at 68,000. I installed mine FWF for a more accurate reading taking out most of the fuel pump pulses. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327488#327488 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2011
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re hoses
Flew to lunch today.- Beautiful day.- Definitely more fly days here per year =0Athan in the Sacramento area.- Dennis Mangan is towing his 5th wh eel here around =0Athe 11th of March on the way to Florida.- Give us a he ads up.- 2 extra rooms =0Aavailable.- The bad news is that our fuel-j ust went up to $3.45 a gallon.- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________________ ______=0AFrom: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A Sent: Tue, January 18, 2011 4:58:08 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Re hoses =0A=0AI will come to Texas this fall are you getting any flying in?Does any one have =0Aany info on G900 fuel flow senders as far as what is used and w here they are =0Aplaced.Don brings up a good point that is important inform ation before planing =0Ahoses.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AF rom: Don McDonald =0ATo: rv10-list =0ASent: Tue, Jan 18, 2011 1:50 pm=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: R e hoses=0A=0A=0AAnybody out there keep track of the hoses used, including p art numbers, type, =0Alength, fittings, etc, when installing the fuel flow cube between the fuel =0Acontroller-and the flow divder?- Be nice to ha ve all the parts before starting =0Athe switch.=0AThanks, Don McDonald=0A =0AHey Jim,-ever coming to Texas for a visit?-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________ ______________________=0AFrom: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@ matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, January 18, 2011 2:41:34 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List : Re hoses=0A=0AI just ordered the fuel hoses from bonaco VA-189-$55.00- -- VA-138- 38.00- =0AVA-102- $38.00 . All hoses including 102 wer e firesleeved and had long lasting =0Ateflon cores.=0A=0A=0A=0Awww.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; =0Atarget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?RV10-List=0Aronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics .com=0AMatt Dralle, List Admin.=0A======0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A-- =0ARob Kochman=0ARV-10 "Finishing" Kit=0AWoodinville, WA (near Seattle)=0Ah ttp://kochman.net/N819K=0A=0A get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Naviga tor?RV10-List =0Ap://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/co ntribution =0A=0Ahttp://www.matron============= ======= =0A=0A get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Naviga tor?RV10-List =0Ap://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/co -======================== ================== =0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Subject: Re: Engine Heaters
Date: Jan 19, 2011
Listers: I've got a Reiff sump heater which I recently installed. Even with some co ld temps here, as long as the plane is in the hanger with cowl plugs and he ater on, even the top part of the engine is up to about 75 degrees F, witho ut any special blankets or cylinder heaters. I can't see much moisture con densing at 75 degrees. I agree with Tim O. that in the grand scheme of things, paying to keep a pr e-heater plugged in all the time is not a ton of money, especially when fue l is $5/gallon. But, not wanting to be wasteful, I got one of these kits, and actually just soldered it together last night: http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=500221 http://www.apogeekits.com/remote_control_via_cell_phone.htm I've got a $10 pre-paid TracPhone that will trigger it. You don't even nee d to spend minutes. Just let it ring once or twice. Going to set it up th is weekend. Tim Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks) tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) smaller flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine heater
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 19, 2011
I'll be preheating before I fly with electric furnace/blower and ductwork to cowl inlets. Oil cooler must be preheated too. I plan on flying often enough to keep the engine well lubricated. I don't want the extra expense and weight to carry around for the other 8 months of the year. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. Fuselage Sec 40 Flap System Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327628#327628 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: voltage regulators/alternator
Date: Jan 20, 2011
I thought I was going to mount my alternator this weekend and finish everyt hing up. Again no instruction in the box for the Plane Power alternator=2C so I looked online and found the installation instructions. WHere do I purchase the R1224 regulator? I didn't see it on Vans site or AC S. Silly me to think the gum balls would actually come in the gum ball machine . John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2011
Subject: Re: voltage regulators/alternator
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
http://www.plane-power.com/R1224.htm http://www.plane-power.com/dealers.htm http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/planePowerSAL.php http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircraft/ElectricalSystem/Alternators.html Airpower has it as well for $150, Chief 155 and the rest of the dealers shown seem to want $168. On Thu, Jan 20, 2011 at 7:04 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I thought I was going to mount my alternator this weekend and finish > everything up. Again no instruction in the box for the Plane Power > alternator, so I looked online and found the installation instructions. > > WHere do I purchase the R1224 regulator? I didn't see it on Vans site or > ACS. > > Silly me to think the gum balls would actually come in the gum ball > machine. > > John > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2011
Subject: How much oil for first fill?
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
How much oil are you guys putting in your (I)O-540 when filling it for the first time? Seems like most people run 8-9 quarts, so I'm thinking 10 would be good (to fill the lines, oil cooler, etc). Hoping to do the first engine start this weekend. Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: How much oil for first fill?
Date: Jan 20, 2011
I filled my oil cooler when I mounted it (which is recommended) and put 11 Quarts in for first run. Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 10:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: How much oil for first fill? How much oil are you guys putting in your (I)O-540 when filling it for the first time? Seems like most people run 8-9 quarts, so I'm thinking 10 would be good (to fill the lines, oil cooler, etc). Hoping to do the first engine start this weekend. Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How much oil for first fill?
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jan 20, 2011
I too filled mine (oil cooler) and I think did 10 or 11 quarts. I knew 12 would be overkill but wanted to be well above the blow out zone. Tim On Jan 20, 2011, at 12:08 PM, "Rene Felker" wrote: > I filled my oil cooler when I mounted it (which is recommended) and put 11 Quarts in for first run. > > > > Rene' Felker > > N423CF > > 801-721-6080 > > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman > Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 10:45 AM > To: rv10-list > Subject: RV10-List: How much oil for first fill? > > > > How much oil are you guys putting in your (I)O-540 when filling it for the first time? Seems like most people run 8-9 quarts, so I'm thinking 10 woul d be good (to fill the lines, oil cooler, etc). > > > > Hoping to do the first engine start this weekend. > > > > Thanks... > > > > -Rob > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2011
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How much oil for first fill?
I put 10 in mine and it shows a little over 8 on the dip stick. I have moun ted 2 =0Aoil coolers and have the 1/2 quart-filter.-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____ ____________________________=0AFrom: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list =0ASent: Thu, January 20, 2011 10:44:47 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: How much oil for first fill?=0A=0A=0AHow much oil are you guys putting in your (I)O-540 when filling it for the first =0Atime ?- Seems like most people run 8-9 quarts, so I'm thinking 10 would be goo d =0A(to fill the lines, oil cooler, etc).- =0A=0A=0AHoping to do the fir st engine start this weekend.=0A=0AThanks...=0A=0A-Rob=0A=0A-- =0ARob Kochm an=0ARV-10 "Finishing" Kit=0AWoodinville, WA (near Seattle)=0Ahttp://kochma ================= =0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2011
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: How much oil for first fill?
You know, I need to retract what I said below. I just remembered that indeed I filled it to 12 on the first run. Only the first 10 hours though. I did that because I needed to do it to do the dipstick markings anyway. I filled the filter, and the hoses as best as I could, then filled the sump and started marking off quarts. So my 8qt mark actually includes the oil cooler and filter to some extent, I think. But I did run it up to 12 quarts so I could mark up to 12 on the stick. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD On 1/20/2011 12:35 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > I too filled mine (oil cooler) and I think did 10 or 11 quarts. > I knew 12 would be overkill but wanted to be well above the blow out zone. > Tim > > > On Jan 20, 2011, at 12:08 PM, "Rene Felker" > wrote: > >> I filled my oil cooler when I mounted it (which is recommended) and >> put 11 Quarts in for first run. >> >> Rene' Felker >> >> N423CF >> >> 801-721-6080 >> >> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kochman >> *Sent:* Thursday, January 20, 2011 10:45 AM >> *To:* rv10-list >> *Subject:* RV10-List: How much oil for first fill? >> >> How much oil are you guys putting in your (I)O-540 when filling it for >> the first time? Seems like most people run 8-9 quarts, so I'm thinking >> 10 would be good (to fill the lines, oil cooler, etc). >> >> Hoping to do the first engine start this weekend. >> >> Thanks... >> >> -Rob >> >> -- >> Rob Kochman >> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit >> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) >> <http://kochman.net/N819K>http://kochman.net/N819K >> >> * * >> * * >> ** >> ** >> ** >> ** >> ** >> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* >> ** >> ** >> *http://forums.matronics.com* >> ** >> ** >> ** >> ** >> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* >> ** >> * * >> * >> >> ================================== >> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ================================== >> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> ================================== >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ================================== >> >> * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2011
Subject: Re: How much oil for first fill?
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Thanks, guys... I didn't even think about filling the cooler. I'm using the starter with the lower plugs removed to build pressure before starting. I'm planning on calibrating the dipstick at the 1st or 2nd oil change, though not sure I'll go above 10, since I won't run with more than that. -Rob On Thu, Jan 20, 2011 at 11:55 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > You know, I need to retract what I said below. I just remembered > that indeed I filled it to 12 on the first run. Only the first > 10 hours though. I did that because I needed to do it to > do the dipstick markings anyway. I filled the filter, and > the hoses as best as I could, then filled the sump and started > marking off quarts. So my 8qt mark actually includes the > oil cooler and filter to some extent, I think. But I did > run it up to 12 quarts so I could mark up to 12 on the stick. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD > > > On 1/20/2011 12:35 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > >> I too filled mine (oil cooler) and I think did 10 or 11 quarts. >> I knew 12 would be overkill but wanted to be well above the blow out zone. >> Tim >> >> >> >> On Jan 20, 2011, at 12:08 PM, "Rene Felker" > > wrote: >> >> I filled my oil cooler when I mounted it (which is recommended) and >>> put 11 Quarts in for first run. >>> >>> Rene' Felker >>> >>> N423CF >>> >>> 801-721-6080 >>> >>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kochman >>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 20, 2011 10:45 AM >>> *To:* rv10-list >>> *Subject:* RV10-List: How much oil for first fill? >>> >>> >>> How much oil are you guys putting in your (I)O-540 when filling it for >>> the first time? Seems like most people run 8-9 quarts, so I'm thinking >>> 10 would be good (to fill the lines, oil cooler, etc). >>> >>> Hoping to do the first engine start this weekend. >>> >>> Thanks... >>> >>> -Rob >>> >>> -- >>> Rob Kochman >>> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit >>> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) >>> <http://kochman.net/N819K>http://kochman.net/N819K >>> >>> * * >>> * * >>> ** >>> ** >>> ** >>> ** >>> ** >>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* >>> ** >>> ** >>> *http://forums.matronics.com* >>> ** >>> ** >>> ** >>> ** >>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* >>> ** >>> * * >>> >>> * >>> >>> ================================== >>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"> >>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> ================================== >>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >>> ================================== >>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution"> >>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> ================================== >>> >>> * >>> >> * >> >> >> * >> > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2011
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: HID Landing Lights
As I am working on the leading edges of the wings, I can't help but think this is a good time to install landing lights. I think I want HID lights. Van's catalog shows 50W HIDs for $250. Duckworks in addition to their "low cost" 50 W for the same price (and also a "low cost" 35W) show a Philips 35W D1S for $370. What lights are people putting on airplanes? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA Wings ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: HID Landing Lights
Date: Jan 20, 2011
go with the 50 watt. You can NEVER get too much light. > Date: Thu=2C 20 Jan 2011 13:48:48 -0800 > From: fritzsch(at)eskimo.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights > kimo.com> > > As I am working on the leading edges of the wings=2C I can't help but > think this is a good time to install landing lights. I think I want HID > lights. Van's catalog shows 50W HIDs for $250. Duckworks in addition > to their "low cost" 50 W for the same price (and also a "low cost" 35W) > show a Philips 35W D1S for $370. What lights are people putting on > airplanes? > > Dave > > -- > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Dave Fritzsche > 40813 > Puyallup=2C WA > Wings > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: HID Landing Lights
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 20, 2011
I installed the Ds1 35W bulbs in each leading edge and the 55w HID's in each wingtip. I guess the DS1 bulbs have the igniter at the base of the bulb taking away a lot of interference noise. I believe Duckworks website explains this better. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327729#327729 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Interior Shop Recommendation
Date: Jan 20, 2011
I=99m looking for recommendations for an aircraft interior installation shop anywhere in the Midwest. Do you know of one whose work you have seen and liked? Tailwinds Dick Sipp N110DV 310 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: voltage regulators/alternator
Is there any other script in the tech support room? On 1/20/2011 5:45 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > ** If you asked them about the earlier alternator, though, they would > likely say that they have not heard from any customers about problems > with them. > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > C: 352-427-0285 > F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: voltage regulators/alternator
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jan 20, 2011
"Just build the plane!" :) Tim On Jan 20, 2011, at 8:11 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Is there any other script in the tech support room? > > > On 1/20/2011 5:45 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: >> ** If you asked them about the earlier alternator, though, they would likely say that they have not heard from any customers about problems with them. >> >> Jesse Saint >> Saint Aviation, Inc. >> jesse(at)saintaviation.com >> C: 352-427-0285 >> F: 815-377-3694 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Interior Shop Recommendation
Date: Jan 20, 2011
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/ Rene' 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick & Vicki Sipp Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 6:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Interior Shop Recommendation I=99m looking for recommendations for an aircraft interior installation shop anywhere in the Midwest. Do you know of one whose work you have seen and liked? Tailwinds Dick Sipp N110DV 310 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RE: [OhioValleyRVators] Good interior shops?
Date: Jan 21, 2011
Dick, I would give Geoff Combs a call (614) 834-8659. As you may know, he owns <http://aerosportproducts.com/> Aerosport Products that sells many interior products for the RV-10. I know that Geoff has not only completed his RV-10, he=99s also done interiors for several Cherokees. I don=99t know if he=99s willing to take on a project at the moment, but I=99m sure he can give you recommendations of other firms that have installed his products. Depending on what you are specifically looking to do, his product line should be able to cover just about everything you would want to do for your RV-10. Bob From: OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dick & Vicki Sipp Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 8:14 PM Subject: [OhioValleyRVators] Good interior shops? I=99m soliciting recommendations for good aircraft interior installation shops anywhere in the Midwest. Do you know of one that did work for you that you are happy with? Many thanks. Tailwinds Dick Sipp RV-10 N110DV 310 hours Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJyczl0 MzhxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzExMjUwODc1BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTc4NjA4MwRtc2dJZ AMyMzA0NQRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNycGx5BHN0aW1lAzEyOTU0ODc3NzA-?act=reply&messa geNum=23045> via web post | <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJmajlo MjVuBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzExMjUwODc1BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTc4NjA4MwRzZWMDZ nRyBHNsawNudHBjBHN0aW1lAzEyOTU0ODc3NzA-> Start a New Topic Messages in this topic <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/message/23045;_ylc=X3o DMTM3b2MzOHNyBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzExMjUwODc1BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTc4NjA4 MwRtc2dJZAMyMzA0NQRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawN2dHBjBHN0aW1lAzEyOTU0ODc3NzAEdHBjSWQDM jMwNDU-> (1) . Description: Image removed by sender. __._,_.___ Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJyajNj OHE5BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzExMjUwODc1BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTc4NjA4MwRtc2dJZ AMyMzA1MARzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNycGx5BHN0aW1lAzEyOTU1NzI0MzY-?act=reply&messa geNum=23050> via web post | <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJmb3Fn ZjkxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzExMjUwODc1BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTc4NjA4MwRzZWMDZ nRyBHNsawNudHBjBHN0aW1lAzEyOTU1NzI0MzY-> Start a New Topic Messages in this topic <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/message/23045;_ylc=X3o DMTM3cjJrOXJpBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzExMjUwODc1BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTc4NjA4 MwRtc2dJZAMyMzA1MARzZWMDZnRyBHNsawN2dHBjBHN0aW1lAzEyOTU1NzI0MzYEdHBjSWQDM jMwNDU-> (6) Recent Activity: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators;_ylc=X3oDMTJmbGI5YTRlB F9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzExMjUwODc1BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTc4NjA4MwRzZWMDdnRsBH NsawN2Z2hwBHN0aW1lAzEyOTU1NzI0MzY-> Visit Your Group <http://groups.yahoo.com/;_ylc=X3oDMTJlYzFwczV2BF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElk AzExMjUwODc1BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTc4NjA4MwRzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNnZnAEc3RpbWUDMTI5N TU3MjQzNg--> Description: Image removed by sender. Yahoo! Groups Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest =A2 Unsubscribe =A2 <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Use . Description: Image removed by sender. __,_._,___ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2011
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RE: [OhioValleyRVators] Good interior shops?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Plane power alternator
Date: Jan 21, 2011
Received a verbal today that the alternator is being covered under warranty. The problem was alternator wire winding related, and possibly caused due to vibration issues. The brush assembly was not related to the problem. I carry an extra brush assembly in the spare parts box but in this case it did not fix the problem. Also the blast tube recommendation is a Vans suggestion due to the fact that they used to supply converted car alternators that required the extra cooling. According to PP, no extra cooling is required due to two integral fans on their unit. PP received the unit Thursday afternoon and shipped repaired unit Friday morning. In my experience of flying airplanes for 45 years the response was good. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Fw: Plane power alternator
Date: Jan 21, 2011
correction they replaced with a new alternator under warranty. ----- Original Message ----- From: DLM Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 10:17 AM Subject: Plane power alternator Received a verbal today that the alternator is being covered under warranty. The problem was alternator wire winding related, and possibly caused due to vibration issues. The brush assembly was not related to the problem. I carry an extra brush assembly in the spare parts box but in this case it did not fix the problem. Also the blast tube recommendation is a Vans suggestion due to the fact that they used to supply converted car alternators that required the extra cooling. According to PP, no extra cooling is required due to two integral fans on their unit. PP received the unit Thursday afternoon and shipped repaired unit Friday morning. In my experience of flying airplanes for 45 years the response was good. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: wire size from 60 amp alternator
Date: Jan 21, 2011
I didn't see a specification on a wire size in the simple wiring instructio ns on the Plane Power web site. Unfortunately=2C I only have size #8 wire=2C but #6 wire was recommended by my panel builder. Unfortunately my wire run length will be long as I am going from the right side of the firewall to the left side of the panel where the circuit breake rs are=2C back to the right side of the firewall where my AFS shunt is=2C t hen back over to my main buss on the left side behind the panel. I should h ave placed the shunt on the left side of the firewall=2C probably save me 2 .5 feet of length. JOhn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2011
Subject: Re: wire size from 60 amp alternator
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
If I were in your situation, I'd buy some #6. I wired mine with #8, following the Van's wiring diagram, then realized that the diagram was for a 40A (I think) alternator. I decided to just go with it, since my load is relativey low and wiring run short: down the left side of the engine to the left side of the firewall for the ANL (no CB in the panel). -Rob On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 3:36 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I didn't see a specification on a wire size in the *simple wiring > instructions* on the Plane Power web site. > > Unfortunately, I only have size #8 wire, but #6 wire was recommended by my > panel builder. > > Unfortunately my wire run length will be long as I am going from the right > side of the firewall to the left side of the panel where the circuit > breakers are, back to the right side of the firewall where my AFS shunt is, > then back over to my main buss on the left side behind the panel. I should > have placed the shunt on the left side of the firewall, probably save me 2.5 > feet of length. > > JOhn > > * > > * > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: TSO's LED nav lights.
Date: Jan 21, 2011
Does anyone know if the old Creative Air LED nav lights are TSO'd? Or how to get in touch with Whiskey Victor company guy? David Leikam RV10 N89DA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: wire size from 60 amp alternator
I'd also look at finding a way to reduce to wire length. Move the alt circuit breaker or shunt so the flow is a straight line, not making a double back across the firewall. I know of many certified planes that bring the alt lead to voltage reg on right side of fire wall, then direct to shunt and to right side of instrument panel, and the bus extends full width right to left. Kelly On 1/21/2011 5:22 PM, Rob Kochman wrote: > If I were in your situation, I'd buy some #6. I wired mine with #8, > following the Van's wiring diagram, then realized that the diagram was > for a 40A (I think) alternator. I decided to just go with it, since > my load is relativey low and wiring run short: down the left side of > the engine to the left side of the firewall for the ANL (no CB in the > panel). > -Rob > > On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 3:36 PM, John Gonzalez > wrote: > > I didn't see a specification on a wire size in the _simple wiring > instructions_ on the Plane Power web site. > > Unfortunately, I only have size #8 wire, but #6 wire was > recommended by my panel builder. > > Unfortunately my wire run length will be long as I am going from > the right side of the firewall to the left side of the panel where > the circuit breakers are, back to the right side of the firewall > where my AFS shunt is, then back over to my main buss on the left > side behind the panel. I should have placed the shunt on the left > side of the firewall, probably save me 2.5 feet of length. > > JOhn > > * > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ttp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: TSO's LED nav lights.
Date: Jan 21, 2011
No, they're not TSO'd. There are several threads on VAF about Bill's customer service. I think most of his headaches started when he couldn't sustain the business full time and had to take another job. This was right after the newer nav lights he was attempting to sell had major RF issues. The older nav lights were Killacycle products, http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm . I would deal directly with the Killacycle folks if you want to build the kit version. bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Leikam Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 7:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: TSO's LED nav lights. Does anyone know if the old Creative Air LED nav lights are TSO'd? Or how to get in touch with Whiskey Victor company guy? David Leikam RV10 N89DA ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: TSO's LED nav lights.
From: David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Date: Jan 21, 2011
Thanks Bob, I already have them installed as my plane is ready for inspection. The issue was brought up that in order to be legal for night VFR and IFR, the nav lights must be TSO'd or meet FAA standards. So I guess the better question is, do they meet FAA requirements? Looking at the link you sent, it seems they do. Thanks. David Leikam RV10 N89DA On Jan 21, 2011, at 7:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > No, they're not TSO'd. There are several threads on VAF about Bill's > customer service. I think most of his headaches started when he couldn't > sustain the business full time and had to take another job. This was right > after the newer nav lights he was attempting to sell had major RF issues. > The older nav lights were Killacycle products, > http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm . I would deal directly with the > Killacycle folks if you want to build the kit version. > > bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Leikam > Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 7:21 PM > To: RV-10 matronics > Subject: RV10-List: TSO's LED nav lights. > > > Does anyone know if the old Creative Air LED nav lights are TSO'd? Or how > to get in touch with Whiskey Victor company guy? > > David Leikam > RV10 > N89DA > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: TSO's LED nav lights.
Date: Jan 21, 2011
I built my own thru a thread on VAF. Pretty easy stuff! http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=37018&highlight=led+nav+light Pascal -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 5:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: TSO's LED nav lights. No, they're not TSO'd. There are several threads on VAF about Bill's customer service. I think most of his headaches started when he couldn't sustain the business full time and had to take another job. This was right after the newer nav lights he was attempting to sell had major RF issues. The older nav lights were Killacycle products, http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm . I would deal directly with the Killacycle folks if you want to build the kit version. bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Leikam Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 7:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: TSO's LED nav lights. Does anyone know if the old Creative Air LED nav lights are TSO'd? Or how to get in touch with Whiskey Victor company guy? David Leikam RV10 N89DA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: TSO's LED nav lights.
Initial inspection and approval for Phase I will be for day VFR only, and ops limits will have statement of the regs that have to be met in order to fly night or IFR in Phase II. You only have to have Day VFR equipment for Phase I. So you don't need IFR static system approval, you don't need to meet night lighting standards to get airworthiness certificate. If DAR questions, I think you could just say you understand the requirements, existing lights are just place holders for lighting you intend to install in the future. Kelly On 1/21/2011 6:55 PM, David Leikam wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: David Leikam > > Thanks Bob, > I already have them installed as my plane is ready for inspection. The issue was brought up that in order to be legal for night VFR and IFR, the nav lights must be TSO'd or meet FAA standards. So I guess the better question is, do they meet FAA requirements? Looking at the link you sent, it seems they do. > Thanks. > > David Leikam > RV10 > N89DA > > > On Jan 21, 2011, at 7:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" >> >> No, they're not TSO'd. There are several threads on VAF about Bill's >> customer service. I think most of his headaches started when he couldn't >> sustain the business full time and had to take another job. This was right >> after the newer nav lights he was attempting to sell had major RF issues. >> The older nav lights were Killacycle products, >> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm . I would deal directly with the >> Killacycle folks if you want to build the kit version. >> >> bob >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Leikam >> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 7:21 PM >> To: RV-10 matronics >> Subject: RV10-List: TSO's LED nav lights. >> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: David Leikam >> >> Does anyone know if the old Creative Air LED nav lights are TSO'd? Or how >> to get in touch with Whiskey Victor company guy? >> >> David Leikam >> RV10 >> N89DA >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: wire size from 60 amp alternator
Date: Jan 21, 2011
I was told to place the shunt between the circuit breaker and the main bus =2C and not place the shunt right off the alternator as the circuit breaker wouldn't protect the shunt????I was trying to minimize the holes in the fi rewall and there is the unused hole on the right side of the firewall near where the manifold pressure line passes through the firewall. Plus=2C I alr eady drilled the holes for the shunt screws and my wiring passes through on the right side.I want to keep the circuit breakers together on the panel. I have one circuit breaker on the left by the ignition switch for my electr onic G3 ignition. BTW-0 I am flying from the right seat. > Date: Fri=2C 21 Jan 2011 17:49:55 -0700 > From: kellym(at)aviating.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: wire size from 60 amp alternator > > > I'd also look at finding a way to reduce to wire length. Move the alt > circuit breaker or shunt so the flow is a straight line=2C not making a > double back across the firewall. I know of many certified planes that > bring the alt lead to voltage reg on right side of fire wall=2C then > direct to shunt and to right side of instrument panel=2C and the bus > extends full width right to left. > Kelly > > > On 1/21/2011 5:22 PM=2C Rob Kochman wrote: > > If I were in your situation=2C I'd buy some #6. I wired mine with #8 =2C > > following the Van's wiring diagram=2C then realized that the diagram wa s > > for a 40A (I think) alternator. I decided to just go with it=2C since > > my load is relativey low and wiring run short: down the left side of > > the engine to the left side of the firewall for the ANL (no CB in the > > panel). > > -Rob > > > > On Fri=2C Jan 21=2C 2011 at 3:36 PM=2C John Gonzalez > > wrote: > > > > I didn't see a specification on a wire size in the _simple wiring > > instructions_ on the Plane Power web site. > > > > Unfortunately=2C I only have size #8 wire=2C but #6 wire was > > recommended by my panel builder. > > > > Unfortunately my wire run length will be long as I am going from > > the right side of the firewall to the left side of the panel where > > the circuit breakers are=2C back to the right side of the firewall > > where my AFS shunt is=2C then back over to my main buss on the left > > side behind the panel. I should have placed the shunt on the left > > side of the firewall=2C probably save me 2.5 feet of length. > > > > JOhn > > > > * > > > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ttp://forums.matronics.com > > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > * > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Rob Kochman > > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > > Woodinville=2C WA (near Seattle) > > http://kochman.net/N819K > > * > > > > > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2011
Subject: Re: wire size from 60 amp alternator
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
A shunt doesn't need circuit breaker protection. It is fully capable of carrying as much load as the wire. The leads to the ammeter off the shunt are normally fused to protect the meter. Most shunts are just a solid piece of copper cut to have a specific low level resistance that will essentially cause 50 mv to flow to meter when full rated load passes through the shunt. On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 7:52 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I was told to place the shunt between the circuit breaker and the main > bus, and not place the shunt right off the alternator as the circuit breaker > wouldn't protect the shunt???? > > I was trying to minimize the holes in the firewall and there is the unused > hole on the right side of the firewall near where the manifold pressure line > passes through the firewall. Plus, I already drilled the holes for the shunt > screws and my wiring passes through on the right side. > > I want to keep the circuit breakers together on the panel. I have one > circuit breaker on the left by the ignition switch for my electronic G3 > ignition. BTW-0 I am flying from the right seat. > > > Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 17:49:55 -0700 > > From: kellym(at)aviating.com > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: wire size from 60 amp alternator > > > > > > > I'd also look at finding a way to reduce to wire length. Move the alt > > circuit breaker or shunt so the flow is a straight line, not making a > > double back across the firewall. I know of many certified planes that > > bring the alt lead to voltage reg on right side of fire wall, then > > direct to shunt and to right side of instrument panel, and the bus > > extends full width right to left. > > Kelly > > > > > > On 1/21/2011 5:22 PM, Rob Kochman wrote: > > > If I were in your situation, I'd buy some #6. I wired mine with #8, > > > following the Van's wiring diagram, then realized that the diagram was > > > for a 40A (I think) alternator. I decided to just go with it, since > > > my load is relativey low and wiring run short: down the left side of > > > the engine to the left side of the firewall for the ANL (no CB in the > > > panel). > > > -Rob > > > > > > On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 3:36 PM, John Gonzalez > > > wrote: > > > > > > I didn't see a specification on a wire size in the _simple wiring > > > instructions_ on the Plane Power web site. > > > > > > Unfortunately, I only have size #8 wire, but #6 wire was > > > recommended by my panel builder. > > > > > > Unfortunately my wire run length will be long as I am going from > > > the right side of the firewall to the left side of the panel where > > > the circuit breakers are, back to the right side of the firewall > > > where my AFS shunt is, then back over to my main buss on the left > > > side behind the panel. I should have placed the shunt on the left > > > side of the firewall, probably save me 2.5 feet of length. > > > > > > JOhn > > > > > > * > > > > > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > ttp://forums.matronics.com > > > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > > > * > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Rob Kochman > > > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > > > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > > > http://kochman.net/N819K > > > * > > > > > > > > >============ > > > > > > > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wire size from 60 amp alternator
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 21, 2011
I know the Garmin stuff requires a 1 amp fuse on both leads from the shunts. I had to install four 1 amp fuses for the shunt between the alt and the one on the battery. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327852#327852 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: wire size from 60 amp alternator
Date: Jan 21, 2011
The #22 wires leaving the shunt goes to the AFS plug on the back of the EFI S. In the schematic=2C there is no indication of needing a fuse between the shunt and the connector on the back of the EFIS. Then again=2C the schemat ic doesn't show the location of the 60amp fuse either. The Plane Power drawing shows the 60amp fuse=2C but doesn't show the shunt. > Subject: RV10-List: Re: wire size from 60 amp alternator > From: sean(at)braunandco.com > Date: Fri=2C 21 Jan 2011 19:37:30 -0800 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I know the Garmin stuff requires a 1 amp fuse on both leads from the shun ts. I had to install four 1 amp fuses for the shunt between the alt and th e one on the battery. > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=327852#327852 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 21, 2011
I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn' t replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which co uld supercede the hardware issue. Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. Thanks John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 22, 2011
John, I have the Ray Allen POS12 flap sensor. It displays the flap position on the AFS EFIS as well as gives the info to the AOA, It has nothing to do with the flap switch which does not connect into the AFS EFIS. Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 12:47 AM Subject: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn't replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could supercede the hardware issue. Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. Thanks John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Alan, I've not seen anyone mount the POS12 like you did. I like it! bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 6:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch John, I have the Ray Allen POS12 flap sensor. It displays the flap position on the AFS EFIS as well as gives the info to the AOA, It has nothing to do with the flap switch which does not connect into the AFS EFIS. Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 12:47 AM Subject: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn't replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could supercede the hardware issue. Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. Thanks John http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Bob, It wasn't my idea but I don't remember who on the forum came up with it. Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 7:22 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch Alan, I've not seen anyone mount the POS12 like you did. I like it! bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 6:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch John, I have the Ray Allen POS12 flap sensor. It displays the flap position on the AFS EFIS as well as gives the info to the AOA, It has nothing to do with the flap switch which does not connect into the AFS EFIS. Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 12:47 AM Subject: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn't replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could supercede the hardware issue. Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. Thanks John http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Re: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Does this look familiar? :-) On Jan 22, 2011, at 7:45 AM, Alan Mekler wrote: > Bob, > It wasn=92t my idea but I don=92t remember who on the forum came up with it. > Alan > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler > Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 7:22 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch > > Alan, > > I=92ve not seen anyone mount the POS12 like you did. I like it! > > bob > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler > Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 6:36 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch > > John, > I have the Ray Allen POS12 flap sensor. It displays the flap position on the AFS EFIS as well as gives the info to the AOA, It has nothing to do with the flap switch which does not connect into the AFS EFIS. > Alan > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez > Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 12:47 AM > To: RV 10 group > Subject: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch > > I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn't replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could supercede the hardware issue. > > Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. > > I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. > > Thanks > > John > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > http://forums.matronics.com > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > > Michael Kraus n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Subject: Re: AFS AOA flap switch
John, I don't have a photo handy but the AOA switch just tells the EFIS when the flaps are down. Mine triggers when they're about 1/3 down. Yes, I suppose the software might be able to pick the data off the position sensor but I don't mind that the AOA has a redundant system in that respect. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 9:47 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn't > replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could > supercede the hardware issue. > Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. > I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. > Thanks > John > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: TSO's LED nav lights.
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Here is the regs on nav lights- Courtesy of Whelen. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "David Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 5:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: TSO's LED nav lights. > > Thanks Bob, > I already have them installed as my plane is ready for inspection. The > issue was brought up that in order to be legal for night VFR and IFR, the > nav lights must be TSO'd or meet FAA standards. So I guess the better > question is, do they meet FAA requirements? Looking at the link you sent, > it seems they do. > Thanks. > > David Leikam > RV10 > N89DA > > > On Jan 21, 2011, at 7:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > >> >> No, they're not TSO'd. There are several threads on VAF about Bill's >> customer service. I think most of his headaches started when he >> couldn't >> sustain the business full time and had to take another job. This was >> right >> after the newer nav lights he was attempting to sell had major RF issues. >> The older nav lights were Killacycle products, >> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm . I would deal directly with the >> Killacycle folks if you want to build the kit version. >> >> bob >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Leikam >> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 7:21 PM >> To: RV-10 matronics >> Subject: RV10-List: TSO's LED nav lights. >> >> >> Does anyone know if the old Creative Air LED nav lights are TSO'd? Or >> how >> to get in touch with Whiskey Victor company guy? >> >> David Leikam >> RV10 >> N89DA >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Mike, Thanks. It works great! Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 8:29 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch Does this look familiar? :-) On Jan 22, 2011, at 7:45 AM, Alan Mekler wrote: Bob, It wasn't my idea but I don't remember who on the forum came up with it. Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 7:22 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch Alan, I've not seen anyone mount the POS12 like you did. I like it! bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 6:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch John, I have the Ray Allen POS12 flap sensor. It displays the flap position on the AFS EFIS as well as gives the info to the AOA, It has nothing to do with the flap switch which does not connect into the AFS EFIS. Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 12:47 AM Subject: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn't replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could supercede the hardware issue. Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. Thanks John http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri bution Michael Kraus n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Dave=2C I think everyone except you misunderstood what I was trying to say. My flap position device(ray allen pos 12) is in place. I need a photo whic h show the the AOA switch. My mind is trying to grasp how to make the which through when it has less than 1/4" travel when all the other areas on the flap mechanism travel much greater distances. I guess I might be able to use it on the inside of the arc on the flap serv o arm(closer to the rotation point) JOhn > From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com > Date: Sat=2C 22 Jan 2011 07:15:50 -0800 > Subject: Re: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > il.com> > > John=2C I don't have a photo handy but the AOA switch just tells the > EFIS when the flaps are down. Mine triggers when they're about 1/3 > down. > > Yes=2C I suppose the software might be able to pick the data off the > position sensor but I don't mind that the AOA has a redundant system > in that respect. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville=2C CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > > On Fri=2C Jan 21=2C 2011 at 9:47 PM=2C John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn. com> wrote: > > I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which do esn't > > replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could > > supercede the hardware issue. > > Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. > > I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. > > Thanks > > John > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Re: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 22, 2011
This is what I did. I riveted a tab on the flap mechanism and mounted the switch on the bulkhead behind the flap weldments (see photos). On Jan 22, 2011, at 1:16 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > Dave, I think everyone except you misunderstood what I was trying to say. My flap position device(ray allen pos 12) is in place. I need a photo which show the the AOA switch. My mind is trying to grasp how to make the which through when it has less than 1/4" travel when all the other areas on the flap mechanism travel much greater distances. > > I guess I might be able to use it on the inside of the arc on the flap servo arm(closer to the rotation point) > > JOhn > > > From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com > > Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 07:15:50 -0800 > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > > > John, I don't have a photo handy but the AOA switch just tells the > > EFIS when the flaps are down. Mine triggers when they're about 1/3 > > down. > > > > Yes, I suppose the software might be able to pick the data off the > > position sensor but I don't mind that the AOA has a redundant system > > in that respect. > > > > Dave Saylor > > AirCrafters > > 140 Aviation Way > > Watsonville, CA 95076 > > 831-722-9141 Shop > > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > > > > > > On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 9:47 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > > > I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn't > > > replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could > > > supercede the hardware issue. > > > Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. > > > I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. > > > Thanks > > > John > > > > > > > > > > > > Michael Kraus n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Re: AFS AOA flap switch
Date: Jan 22, 2011
This might be a better picture. On Jan 22, 2011, at 1:16 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > Dave, I think everyone except you misunderstood what I was trying to say. My flap position device(ray allen pos 12) is in place. I need a photo which show the the AOA switch. My mind is trying to grasp how to make the which through when it has less than 1/4" travel when all the other areas on the flap mechanism travel much greater distances. > > I guess I might be able to use it on the inside of the arc on the flap servo arm(closer to the rotation point) > > JOhn > > > From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com > > Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 07:15:50 -0800 > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > > > John, I don't have a photo handy but the AOA switch just tells the > > EFIS when the flaps are down. Mine triggers when they're about 1/3 > > down. > > > > Yes, I suppose the software might be able to pick the data off the > > position sensor but I don't mind that the AOA has a redundant system > > in that respect. > > > > Dave Saylor > > AirCrafters > > 140 Aviation Way > > Watsonville, CA 95076 > > 831-722-9141 Shop > > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > > > > > > On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 9:47 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > > > I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which doesn't > > > replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which could > > > supercede the hardware issue. > > > Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. > > > I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. > > > Thanks > > > John > > > > > > > > > > > > Michael Kraus n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: AOA switch and Alternator questions
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Thank you all for your most excellent input and fast responses. JOhn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Subject: Re: AFS AOA flap switch
IIRC, mine uses a cam attached to the torque tube. The OD of the cam lobe doesn't go all the way around the travel. I'll have the whole thing apart for the annual next month. Let me know if that's not too late for a photo. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Jan 22, 2011 at 10:16 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > Dave, I think everyone except you misunderstood what I was trying to say. My > flap position device(ray allen pos 12) is in place. I need a photo which > show the the AOA switch. My mind is trying to grasp how to make the which > through when it has less than 1/4" travel when all the other areas on the > flap mechanism travel much greater distances. > I guess I might be able to use it on the inside of the arc on the flap servo > arm(closer to the rotation point) > JOhn > >> From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com >> Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 07:15:50 -0800 >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: AFS AOA flap switch >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> >> >> >> John, I don't have a photo handy but the AOA switch just tells the >> EFIS when the flaps are down. Mine triggers when they're about 1/3 >> down. >> >> Yes, I suppose the software might be able to pick the data off the >> position sensor but I don't mind that the AOA has a redundant system >> in that respect. >> >> Dave Saylor >> AirCrafters >> 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 95076 >> 831-722-9141 Shop >> 831-750-0284 Cell >> >> >> >> On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 9:47 PM, John Gonzalez >> wrote: >> > I don't understand why I have a Ray Allen flap position sensor which >> > doesn't >> > replace the flap switch for the AOA. Seems like a software issue which >> > could >> > supercede the hardware issue. >> > Anyone have pictures of the AOA flap switch installed. >> > I have the Ray Allen flap sensor already completed. >> > Thanks >> > John >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Hi The pix of the alternative way to mount the POS 12 are great! I am mounting mine Monday so it was very timely indeed. Which brings me to another question. I have some shielded 3 and 2 connector wire to attach my trim servos. Do I ground the shield by soldering a wire to it and then attaching it to a ground block? If not, what how do I handle the shield. Next question - I plan to run my tail strobe wires along with the trim servo wires. Will this be a problem or will the shielded trim servo wire handle things adequately or is it even a concern? Inquiring minds need to know Les ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: AOA switch and Alternator questions
Date: Jan 22, 2011
John, I was told if you use the Ray Allen POS12 then you don't need the flap switch that came with the AOA. Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 5:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions Thank you all for your most excellent input and fast responses. JOhn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2011
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
On 1/22/2011 7:52 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > The pix of the alternative way to mount the POS 12 are great! I am > mounting mine Monday so it was very timely indeed. > > Which brings me to another question. I have some shielded 3 and 2 > connector wire to attach my trim servos. Do I ground the shield by > soldering a wire to it and then attaching it to a ground block? > Well, that's one way. Put a piece of heat shrink over it. > > If not, what how do I handle the shield. > The 'professional' way would be to push the braid back the length you need to put a lug on the end and attach to ground screw. Use an ice pick or similer to open a hole in the braid and fish the wires through the hole. Try not to break any of the braid wires. It's easier if you fold the wire back on itself and then fish the wire through. Gets easier with practice. Use a piece of heat shrink to cover where the wires exit the shield. I think there's an EAA video on this method. > > Next question - I plan to run my tail strobe wires along with the trim > servo wires. Will this be a problem or will the shielded trim servo > wire handle things adequately or is it even a concern? > As with most things .... depends. Shouldn't be a problem. The equipment manufacturer(s) should recommend whether to ground the shield(s) at one or both ends. Linn > Inquiring minds need to know > > Les > > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: AOA switch and Alternator questions
Date: Jan 22, 2011
Page 14 of AFS manual: Flap Sensor The AOA can use either the flap position sensor for the screen or the suppl ied switch connected to Input #3 on the main EFIS harness. The AOA Use Flap Sensor sould be set to YES if you have installed the Linear Flap Position Sensor for the screen in instrument Calibration. Is this what you are refering to? This is what I was asking when I made the comment about software vs. hardwa re. I just didn't understand the words=2C "Flap Position Sensor for the Scr een" I thought the system pretty lame if I couldn't use the Pos 12 instrume nt. Now that I sent a few hours and am ready to install the switch=2C haven't d rilled holes yet??????????????????????????????????????? John From: amekler(at)metrocast.net Subject: RE: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions Date: Sat=2C 22 Jan 2011 20:13:34 -0500 John=2C I was told if you use the Ray Allen POS12 then you don=92t need the flap sw itch that came with the AOA. Alan From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday=2C January 22=2C 2011 5:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions Thank you all for your most excellent input and fast responses. JOhn http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.c omhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: AOA switch and Alternator questions
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Yes Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 10:08 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions Page 14 of AFS manual: Flap Sensor The AOA can use either the flap position sensor for the screen or the supplied switch connected to Input #3 on the main EFIS harness. The AOA Use Flap Sensor sould be set to YES if you have installed the Linear Flap Position Sensor for the screen in instrument Calibration. Is this what you are refering to? This is what I was asking when I made the comment about software vs. hardware. I just didn't understand the words, "Flap Position Sensor for the Screen" I thought the system pretty lame if I couldn't use the Pos 12 instrument. Now that I sent a few hours and am ready to install the switch, haven't drilled holes yet??????????????????????????????????????? John _____ From: amekler(at)metrocast.net Subject: RE: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 20:13:34 -0500 John, I was told if you use the Ray Allen POS12 then you don't need the flap switch that came with the AOA. Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 5:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: AOA switch and Alternator questions Thank you all for your most excellent input and fast responses. JOhn http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ttp://forums.matronics.com =_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Hi Linn Thanks for the info. For other who may be interested, under the ELECTRICAL tab on the http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html website is a video called STRIPPING MIL SPEC wiring. You have to scroll down to get to the video. It illustrates the technique very clearly. Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: January-22-11 6:31 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos On 1/22/2011 7:52 PM, Les Kearney wrote: Hi The pix of the alternative way to mount the POS 12 are great! I am mounting mine Monday so it was very timely indeed. Which brings me to another question. I have some shielded 3 and 2 connector wire to attach my trim servos. Do I ground the shield by soldering a wire to it and then attaching it to a ground block? Well, that's one way. Put a piece of heat shrink over it. If not, what how do I handle the shield. The 'professional' way would be to push the braid back the length you need to put a lug on the end and attach to ground screw. Use an ice pick or similer to open a hole in the braid and fish the wires through the hole. Try not to break any of the braid wires. It's easier if you fold the wire back on itself and then fish the wire through. Gets easier with practice. Use a piece of heat shrink to cover where the wires exit the shield. I think there's an EAA video on this method. Next question - I plan to run my tail strobe wires along with the trim servo wires. Will this be a problem or will the shielded trim servo wire handle things adequately or is it even a concern? As with most things .... depends. Shouldn't be a problem. The equipment manufacturer(s) should recommend whether to ground the shield(s) at one or both ends. Linn Inquiring minds need to know Les ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Speaking of Ray Allen ServosHey Les, Thanks for the link. This is the first time I've seen this source of information, and it looks like it will be good for a few hours of wintertime obsessing! Although the video is great for releasing wires from shielded cable, I was also hoping it would address the original question of how to strip those seemingly hair thin wires without damaging the wires. So far, I've just been very careful with a blade -- with mixed results. I think I've seen some guys just pull the insulation off with fingernails? Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Kearney To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:47 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos Hi Linn Thanks for the info. For other who may be interested, under the ELECTRICAL tab on the http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html website is a video called STRIPPING MIL SPEC wiring. You have to scroll down to get to the video. It illustrates the technique very clearly. Cheers Les ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: I shant shunt
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Just curious Why are you guys using shunts anyway? A hall effect with the feed wires passing thru them is a far more elegant solution. Kind of like using LEDs instead of incadesent bulbs. Chris Hukill stirring the pot ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
On 1/23/2011 9:58 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > Hey Les, > Thanks for the link. This is the first time I've seen this source of > information, and it looks like it will be good for a few hours of > wintertime obsessing! > Although the video is great for releasing wires from shielded cable, I > was also hoping it would address the original question of how to strip > those seemingly hair thin wires without damaging the wires. So far, > I've just been very careful with a blade -- with mixed results. You can buy good 'automatic' strippers, but also get the blades for real small wire sizes. If you use a single-edged razor blade with a little pressure and roll the wire while cutting the insulation and a little practice, you can strip wires easily. You can also bend the wire, press the razor blade to the insulation and you'll see the insulation separate. Do not let the razor blade 'saw' against the conductor. Works great on larger wires like coax. > I think I've seen some guys just pull the insulation off with > fingernails? I doubt that the new Tefzel insulation will give up to a fingernail. The old telephone wire could be stripped with fingernails, but that's the only example I have. Some folks have fingernails that are really thick and hard, so I wouldn't say it didn't happen. The Tefzel insulation is also so slippery that it's hard to pull it off the conductor. If you get a rubber boot for a large alligator clip, insert the wire in the small hole end, pinch with your fingers and pull, it'll come right off. I haven't been able to figure out why, but it works so I use it. Linn > Later, - Lew > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Les Kearney > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:47 AM > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos > > Hi Linn > Thanks for the info. For other who may be interested, under the > ELECTRICAL tab on the > http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html website is a video > called STRIPPING MIL SPEC wiring. You have to scroll down to get > to the video. It illustrates the technique very clearly. > Cheers > Les > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: I shant shunt
Date: Jan 23, 2011
AFS ships their units with a shunt. One gets to a point that one just wants to get it done! And with that said=2C the orders to ACS just keep being pl aced. One or two items at a time. From: cjhukill(at)cox.net Subject: RV10-List: I shant shunt Date: Sun=2C 23 Jan 2011 06:56:47 -0800 Just curious Why are you guys using shunts anyway? A hall effect with the feed wires pas sing thru them is a far more elegant solution. Kind of like using LEDs instead of incadesent bulbs. Chris Hukill stirring the pot ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: I shant shunt
On 1/23/2011 9:56 AM, Chris Hukill wrote: > Just curious > Why are you guys using shunts anyway? Probably because their wiring diagram shows one. > A hall effect with the feed wires passing thru them is a far more > elegant solution. I agree, but they may be more $$ than the shunt. I haven't compared prices though. I'll be using the hall effect sensor on my -10 because there's two less connections on the fat wires. > Kind of like using LEDs instead of incadesent bulbs. Good example! > Chris Hukill > stirring the pot Hmmm. I thought they smoked the pot???? Linn .... doesn't smoke anything ..... well some electronics once in a while. :-( > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
Lew, Just take a wire about 6" long, like the piano wire which goes through the =0Acowl pins, put it to the grinder and make a point.- Then use a de burring wheel =0Aand polish it up and remove the "sharp" point.- You'll f ind it works perfectly.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________________ _______=0AFrom: Lew Gallagher <lewgall(at)charter.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matroni cs.com=0ASent: Sun, January 23, 2011 8:58:08 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: S peaking of Ray Allen Servos=0A=0A=0AHey Les,=0A-=0AThanks for the link. - This is the first time I've seen this source of =0Ainformation, and it looks like it will be good for a few hours of wintertime =0Aobsessing!- =0A=0A-=0AAlthough the video is great for releasing wires from shielded c able, I was also =0Ahoping it would address the original question of how to strip those seemingly =0Ahair thin wires without damaging the wires.- So far, I've just been very careful =0Awith a blade ---with mixed results. - I think I've seen some guys just pull the =0Ainsulation off with finger nails?=0A-=0ALater, - Lew=0A----- Original Message ----- =0A>From: Les Ke arney =0A>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A>Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8: 47 AM=0A>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos=0A>=0A>=0A>Hi Linn=0A>-=0A>Thanks for the info. For other who may be interested, under the ELECTRICAL tab =0A>on the http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html -website is a video called =0A>STRIPPING MIL SPEC wiring. You have to scr oll down to get to the video. It =0A>illustrates the technique very clearly = =0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: showplane flaps
Date: Jan 23, 2011
I am wondering whether I have done something incorrectly with my showplane flap setup. The flaps go down incrementally(Good)=2C but do not do that in reverse order. Once the switch is used to bring the flaps up=2C they come u p all at once. In sailplanes one doesn't raise the flaps in flight like thi s unless the nose of the glider is pointing down. In otherwords=2C altitude would be a good thing. The flap motor is working pretty slow so it probabl y is just fine. My biggest concern is that once the flaps reach all the way up=2C the flap motor keeps running until the switch is switched off. Only then does the mo tor stops running. I am thinking of using the AOA switch instead of for the AOA system=2C but for a green LED light to show when the flaps are all the way up and to remind me to touch the switch again. It is easy to hear the motor running when the aircraft engine isn't running =2C but I can seee how the flap motor could be left running during the enti re flight. John ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: showplane flaps
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Yes, the flaps go all the way up. But the motor should stop at the top. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 23, 2011, at 11:16 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I am wondering whether I have done something incorrectly with my showplane flap setup. The flaps go down incrementally(Good), but do not do that in re verse order. Once the switch is used to bring the flaps up, they come up all at once. In sailplanes one doesn't raise the flaps in flight like this unle ss the nose of the glider is pointing down. In otherwords, altitude would be a good thing. The flap motor is working pretty slow so it probably is just f ine. > > My biggest concern is that once the flaps reach all the way up, the flap m otor keeps running until the switch is switched off. Only then does the moto r stops running. I am thinking of using the AOA switch instead of for the AO A system, but for a green LED light to show when the flaps are all the way u p and to remind me to touch the switch again. > > It is easy to hear the motor running when the aircraft engine isn't runnin g, but I can seee how the flap motor could be left running during the entire flight. > > John > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Subject: Re: showplane flaps
From: Mike Schulz <mike(at)profishenterprises.com>
JOHN I had the same issue and found it just needed more adjustment then it shut off. Mike Schulz 40447 On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 10:16 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I am wondering whether I have done something incorrectly with my showplane > flap setup. The flaps go *down *incrementally(Good), but do not do that in > reverse order. Once the switch is used to bring the flaps *up*, they come > up all at once. In sailplanes one doesn't raise the flaps in flight like > this unless the nose of the glider is pointing down. In otherwords, altitude > would be a good thing. The flap motor is working pretty slow so it probably > is just fine. > > My biggest concern is that once the flaps reach all the way up, the flap > motor keeps running until the switch is switched off. Only then does the > motor stops running. I am thinking of using the AOA switch instead of for > the AOA system, but for a green LED light to show when the flaps are all the > way up and to remind me to touch the switch again. > > It is easy to hear the motor running when the aircraft engine isn't > running, but I can seee how the flap motor could be left running during the > entire flight. > > John > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: fuel caps
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Has anybody used the deluxe locking fuel caps from Vans? Link to the caps I'm referring to is below. If so, what kind of mods were required to install them? In you're opinion, are they worth the money? http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1295806930-288-72 3&browse=misc&product=delux-cap Thanks, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: fuel tanks
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Has anyone priced the materials from Vans to rebuild the fuel tanks? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel caps
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jan 23, 2011
I installed them on my -10, but not flying yet. I had the standard ones on m y RV-4, and really didn't like the old ones. I like these much better. Ton s easier to get the caps on and off, and I think they were worth the money. No modifications needed if you are slow building the tanks. They are not r etrofittable on a built tank, unless you want to make an access hole... -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone On Jan 23, 2011, at 1:26 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" wrote : > Has anybody used the deluxe locking fuel caps from Vans? Link to the caps I'm referring to is below. If so, what kind of mods were required to insta ll them? In you're opinion, are they worth the money? > > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1295806930-288-723 &browse=misc&product=delux-cap > > Thanks, > Bill > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel caps
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 23, 2011
I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten the curvature with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It takes about an hour or so for both. They are made of a VERY hard aluminum alloy...don't have any idea, but they will get very hot while sanding so keep some water handy and good leather gloves. You'll like them once done with sanding/installation. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What's that sound......
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Jan 23, 2011
.....It's the sound of my engine roaring to life. Had to adjust the timing from the manufacturer, but the engine cranked and ran like a champ. What a pretty sound. The DAR was through today and told me to go ahead and button it all up. Inspection is essentially over, but he wants to see it in flight ready condition and to see me at least taxi it before handing over the airworthiness certificate. Although even he said that isn't a requirement it is something he likes to see. The end is near, and so is the first flight. Eric Kallio N518RV Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328111#328111 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What's that sound......
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Nice work! Congrats. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 23, 2011, at 17:16, "Eric_Kallio" wrote: > > .....It's the sound of my engine roaring to life. Had to adjust the timing from the manufacturer, but the engine cranked and ran like a champ. What a pretty sound. The DAR was through today and told me to go ahead and button it all up. Inspection is essentially over, but he wants to see it in flight ready condition and to see me at least taxi it before handing over the airworthiness certificate. Although even he said that isn't a requirement it is something he likes to see. The end is near, and so is the first flight. > > Eric Kallio > N518RV > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328111#328111 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: fuel caps
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Can you explain the curvature you mentioned? Is it to get the flange to fit to the shape of the skins? Bill -------------------------------------------------- From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 4:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: fuel caps > > I installed them on my sb tanks last year. You'll need to flatten the > curvature with a belt sander using 80 grit, then 120 grit. It takes about > an hour or so for both. They are made of a VERY hard aluminum > alloy...don't have any idea, but they will get very hot while sanding so > keep some water handy and good leather gloves. You'll like them once done > with sanding/installation. > > -------- > Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 > Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. > Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel > > > ns > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328093#328093 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Landing gear shake
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward and back. Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the shaking that anyone has discovered? Thank you, Roger Standley N291RV 165 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Landing gear shake
Just a SWAG, but you may have a warped brake disc. Or the brake disk may not be seated perpendicular to the axle. Forward/aft 'walking' is indicative of varying drag ..... or waves in the surface of the runway or ramp. Let us know what you find. Linn On 1/23/2011 8:40 PM, Roger Standley wrote: > > Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was > landing. I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. > Sometimes not too much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes > seems to make it worse but nothing will make it stop until slowing > below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth. He said that the left > main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward and back. > Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize > the shaking that anyone has discovered? > Thank you, > Roger Standley > N291RV > 165 hours > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Hi Linn A small but perhaps important question. What kind of lug do you attach? Crimp on ring terminal? Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: January-22-11 6:31 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos On 1/22/2011 7:52 PM, Les Kearney wrote: Hi The pix of the alternative way to mount the POS 12 are great! I am mounting mine Monday so it was very timely indeed. Which brings me to another question. I have some shielded 3 and 2 connector wire to attach my trim servos. Do I ground the shield by soldering a wire to it and then attaching it to a ground block? Well, that's one way. Put a piece of heat shrink over it. If not, what how do I handle the shield. The 'professional' way would be to push the braid back the length you need to put a lug on the end and attach to ground screw. Use an ice pick or similer to open a hole in the braid and fish the wires through the hole. Try not to break any of the braid wires. It's easier if you fold the wire back on itself and then fish the wire through. Gets easier with practice. Use a piece of heat shrink to cover where the wires exit the shield. I think there's an EAA video on this method. Next question - I plan to run my tail strobe wires along with the trim servo wires. Will this be a problem or will the shielded trim servo wire handle things adequately or is it even a concern? As with most things .... depends. Shouldn't be a problem. The equipment manufacturer(s) should recommend whether to ground the shield(s) at one or both ends. Linn Inquiring minds need to know Les ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Landing gear shake
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Good discussions on this in the archive. Standard things to check: - Balance all wheels/tire assemblies. I use the stick on weights - available at Matco. - Check main gear hub cap for proper load on the wheel bearings. The wheel should spin a turn or so after a good hand push. - Check that you don't have an out of round tire. - On the nose gear install the Matco replacement axel if not already done: http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html This enables a fixed preload on the nose bearing that is not affected by axel to fork mounting bolt torque. Note - a nose gear shimmy can induce a main gear vibration. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (600 hours) RV-10 (just finishing cowl and plenum install) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: Landing gear shake Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward and back. Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the shaking that anyone has discovered? Thank you, Roger Standley N291RV 165 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Subject: Re: Landing gear shake
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I have a static balancer and found that following Van's 'red dot' plans but the tire/wheel assemblies at the most extreme out of balance scenario. I eventually had to install the red dot 180 degrees opposite of Vans plans and still add weight to bring the assembly into balance. This was true on both of the mains. I can't speak for Vans nosewheel because I went with the Matco setup. Your milage may vary, but this was just waht I found on mine after balancing them. On 1/23/11, Carl Froehlich wrote: > Good discussions on this in the archive. > > > Standard things to check: > > - Balance all wheels/tire assemblies. I use the stick on weights - > available at Matco. > > - Check main gear hub cap for proper load on the wheel bearings. > The wheel should spin a turn or so after a good hand push. > > - Check that you don't have an out of round tire. > > - On the nose gear install the Matco replacement axel if not > already done: > http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html This enables > a fixed preload on the nose bearing that is not affected by axel to fork > mounting bolt torque. Note - a nose gear shimmy can induce a main gear > vibration. > > > Carl Froehlich > > RV-8A (600 hours) > > RV-10 (just finishing cowl and plenum install) > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley > Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:41 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Landing gear shake > > > Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I > have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too > much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but > nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph > are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be > rapidly moving forward and back. > > Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the > shaking that anyone has discovered? > > > Thank you, > > > Roger Standley > > N291RV > > 165 hours > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Subject: Re: Landing gear shake
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
but = put I should proof read before clicking send. :( On 1/23/11, Phillip Perry wrote: > I have a static balancer and found that following Van's 'red dot' > plans but the tire/wheel assemblies at the most extreme out of balance > scenario. I eventually had to install the red dot 180 degrees > opposite of Vans plans and still add weight to bring the assembly into > balance. > > This was true on both of the mains. I can't speak for Vans nosewheel > because I went with the Matco setup. > > Your milage may vary, but this was just waht I found on mine after > balancing them. > > On 1/23/11, Carl Froehlich wrote: >> Good discussions on this in the archive. >> >> >> >> Standard things to check: >> >> - Balance all wheels/tire assemblies. I use the stick on weights >> - >> available at Matco. >> >> - Check main gear hub cap for proper load on the wheel bearings. >> The wheel should spin a turn or so after a good hand push. >> >> - Check that you don't have an out of round tire. >> >> - On the nose gear install the Matco replacement axel if not >> already done: >> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html This >> enables >> a fixed preload on the nose bearing that is not affected by axel to fork >> mounting bolt torque. Note - a nose gear shimmy can induce a main gear >> vibration. >> >> >> >> Carl Froehlich >> >> RV-8A (600 hours) >> >> RV-10 (just finishing cowl and plenum install) >> >> >> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley >> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:41 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Landing gear shake >> >> >> >> >> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. >> I >> have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too >> much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse >> but >> nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph >> are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be >> rapidly moving forward and back. >> >> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the >> shaking that anyone has discovered? >> >> >> >> Thank you, >> >> >> >> Roger Standley >> >> N291RV >> >> 165 hours >> >> >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel caps
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Bill, Yes, they are made for a tank skin with more curvature than ours so you just have to flatten them out some. You may have a small gap but once you use plenty of tank sealant and rivet them they look real good. I used almost one can per tank. No leaks at 1 psi. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328146#328146 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
On 1/23/2011 8:59 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > Hi Linn > A small but perhaps important question. What kind of lug do you > attach? Crimp on ring terminal? Usually. I put a little (1/2") heat shrink on the braid, crimp the terminal, and then do the shrinking. Don't cheap out on the crimp connectors, and use a good crimper. Hammers and vice grips don't hack it. Not saying you'd do that, but you'd be surprised how many do. Linn > Cheers > Les > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Linn Walters > *Sent:* January-22-11 6:31 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos > > On 1/22/2011 7:52 PM, Les Kearney wrote: >> >> Hi >> >> The pix of the alternative way to mount the POS 12 are great! I am >> mounting mine Monday so it was very timely indeed. >> >> Which brings me to another question. I have some shielded 3 and 2 >> connector wire to attach my trim servos. Do I ground the shield by >> soldering a wire to it and then attaching it to a ground block? >> > Well, that's one way. Put a piece of heat shrink over it. >> >> If not, what how do I handle the shield. >> > The 'professional' way would be to push the braid back the length you > need to put a lug on the end and attach to ground screw. Use an ice > pick or similer to open a hole in the braid and fish the wires through > the hole. Try not to break any of the braid wires. It's easier if > you fold the wire back on itself and then fish the wire through. Gets > easier with practice. Use a piece of heat shrink to cover where the > wires exit the shield. I think there's an EAA video on this method. >> >> Next question - I plan to run my tail strobe wires along with the >> trim servo wires. Will this be a problem or will the shielded trim >> servo wire handle things adequately or is it even a concern? >> > As with most things .... depends. Shouldn't be a problem. The > equipment manufacturer(s) should recommend whether to ground the > shield(s) at one or both ends. > Linn > >> Inquiring minds need to know >> >> Les >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> * >> >> >> * > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What's that sound......
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Congratulations Eric! -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328156#328156 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Subject: Re: What's that sound......
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Sweet! Congrats... just did mine, too. -Rob On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 4:16 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote: > > .....It's the sound of my engine roaring to life. Had to adjust the timing > from the manufacturer, but the engine cranked and ran like a champ. What a > pretty sound. The DAR was through today and told me to go ahead and button > it all up. Inspection is essentially over, but he wants to see it in flight > ready condition and to see me at least taxi it before handing over the > airworthiness certificate. Although even he said that isn't a requirement it > is something he likes to see. The end is near, and so is the first flight. > > Eric Kallio > N518RV > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328111#328111 > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2011
Subject: First engine start
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Well, it runs. Lessons learned: - Use a checklist. For some reason, I decided that because I wasn't going flying, I didn't need to use a checklist. Well, after twice trying to get the engine to start, I realized I should probably turn on the ignition switches. Also, after doing a complete ground run (including a minute or so at high RPM to cycle the prop), I realized I had the Lightspeed breaker pulled (the other side is a mag). I thought it sounded a little rough, but thought it could be the preservative oil on the cylinders or something else. Inexcusable, really, to not have all this stuff checked out ahead of time. On the plus side, I was surprised how well it ran on just one mag. - Be sure of the tachometer setting on the EMS before starting. I thought it should be 3, turns out it's 1.5 (for the Dynon on the p-lead), so I was getting 1/2 the actual RPM displayed. This, combined with the rougher running, caused me to run a little faster than I'd have liked. CHTs maxed out at around 300, so thinking I'm probably okay. - Had a flame shoot out of the exhaust when I turned off the mag (to do the "mag check", before I realized the Lightspeed was off). Guessing this is the unburned fuel/air mixture in the exhaust. It was far from the perfect first engine start I'd hoped for, but I'll take it, given everything else works. -Robi -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First engine start
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Don't worry Rob. Mine was far from perfect either. Turns out the wiring diagram for my ignition was off and had me put the wrong ignition system to ground. I too have a mag and a Lightspeed, but the wiring diagram didn't have me grounding one out for start. According to the other mechanics on the filed I should run the mag used to start to the ground. going to review my schematics today. Congrats. I wonder who will be the next to get their first flight. Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328188#328188 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: I shant shunt
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Current Shunts are considered more accurate and cheaper than Hall effect devices. I'm sure it really is an insignificant difference and having less terminal connections is nice too. I went with two shunts for my G3X. The manual shows both hall effect and shunts. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328202#328202 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Subject: Re: First engine start
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Thanks, Eric... my money is on you, since my DAR visit isn't scheduled for almost a month. Is your mag an impulse coupled mag? I'm starting mine on both ignitions--we'll except for that first start :) BTW, added a couple videos... First start, on one mag: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImWsEK9Fhuc Starting it later on both ignitions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfLZDNbsdrk -Rob On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 5:13 AM, Eric_Kallio wrote: > > Don't worry Rob. Mine was far from perfect either. Turns out the wiring > diagram for my ignition was off and had me put the wrong ignition system to > ground. I too have a mag and a Lightspeed, but the wiring diagram didn't > have me grounding one out for start. According to the other mechanics on the > filed I should run the mag used to start to the ground. going to review my > schematics today. Congrats. I wonder who will be the next to get their first > flight. > > Eric > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328188#328188 > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2011
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Step
I wanted to add another data point to the broken step. I took some friends up for a ride this weekend. As a 300 lb guy was getting into the plane, the right step broke off . Same place as previous notes. Weld broke, looked like minimal weld material at top. I had a significant amount of rust inside. I remember that I did put some primer inside the tube. Will have to cut access holes to get to the bolt. May be something to think about if you have a heavy person to get in the plane. Might want to get a small step stool out to help them get up a little higher. When he was getting in the plane, he couldn't quite get his weight forward enough to grab the door sill. So he kinda hesitated and tried to catch his balance and wavered on the step just before it broke. Maybe if he had a step it would have been a little easier and he wouldn't have stressed the weld so much. Of course, small dent in the skin underneath. I'll try and take some pics and post later. May be the weekend before I can address the issue. Dr Fred 515 FW. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2011
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Step
One of my steps had a stress crack about 3/8" long on the top of the step weld where it joins the strut. There was a small pit where it started in the middle. I have a TIG welder so I re-welded both steps adding quite a bit of filler as I went along . No way I want to have to remove one if/when one breaks, and that particular step would have broke real quickly. I am now waiting them to come back from chroming so I can get them installed and install the baggage floors. David Clifford RV-10 Builder N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 5:06:05 PM Subject: RV10-List: Step I wanted to add another data point to the broken step. I took some friends up for a ride this weekend. As a 300 lb guy was getting into the plane, the right step broke off . Same place as previous notes. Weld broke, looked like minimal weld material at top. I had a significant amount of rust inside. I remember that I did put some primer inside the tube. Will have to cut access holes to get to the bolt. May be something to think about if you have a heavy person to get in the plane. Might want to get a small step stool out to help them get up a little higher. When he was getting in the plane, he couldn't quite get his weight forward enough to grab the door sill. So he kinda hesitated and tried to catch his balance and wavered on the step just before it broke. Maybe if he had a step it would have been a little easier and he wouldn't have stressed the weld so much. Of course, small dent in the skin underneath. I'll try and take some pics and post later. May be the weekend before I can address the issue. Dr Fred 515 FW. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Step
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Sounds like 300lbs is the limit on the step. Regardless of the rust I think there needs to be a concern that the step is a sore spot on the planes. While up at a VAF Socal meeting and show and tell there was a RV-7 that had a missing step as well. Seems many have commented on the weak weld and need to reweld the step before it breaks. I am seriously thinking of a portable step for my passengers. It may be a hassle, for the few times I do it, but it will be better than a broken step that will force me to do more later. Pascal -----Original Message----- From: Fred Williams, M.D. Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 2:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: Step I wanted to add another data point to the broken step. I took some friends up for a ride this weekend. As a 300 lb guy was getting into the plane, the right step broke off . Same place as previous notes. Weld broke, looked like minimal weld material at top. I had a significant amount of rust inside. I remember that I did put some primer inside the tube. Will have to cut access holes to get to the bolt. May be something to think about if you have a heavy person to get in the plane. Might want to get a small step stool out to help them get up a little higher. When he was getting in the plane, he couldn't quite get his weight forward enough to grab the door sill. So he kinda hesitated and tried to catch his balance and wavered on the step just before it broke. Maybe if he had a step it would have been a little easier and he wouldn't have stressed the weld so much. Of course, small dent in the skin underneath. I'll try and take some pics and post later. May be the weekend before I can address the issue. Dr Fred 515 FW. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Subject: Re: Step
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Are people getting injured when these things break? -Rob On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 3:48 PM, Pascal wrote: > > Sounds like 300lbs is the limit on the step. Regardless of the rust I think > there needs to be a concern that the step is a sore spot on the planes. > While up at a VAF Socal meeting and show and tell there was a RV-7 that had > a missing step as well. Seems many have commented on the weak weld and need > to reweld the step before it breaks. > I am seriously thinking of a portable step for my passengers. It may be a > hassle, for the few times I do it, but it will be better than a broken step > that will force me to do more later. > Pascal > > -----Original Message----- From: Fred Williams, M.D. > Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 2:06 PM > To: RV 10 > > Subject: RV10-List: Step > > drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> > > > I wanted to add another data point to the broken step. I took some > friends up for a ride this weekend. As a 300 lb guy was getting into > the plane, the right step broke off . Same place as previous notes. > Weld broke, looked like minimal weld material at top. I had a > significant amount of rust inside. I remember that I did put some > primer inside the tube. Will have to cut access holes to get to the bolt. > > May be something to think about if you have a heavy person to get in the > plane. Might want to get a small step stool out to help them get up a > little higher. When he was getting in the plane, he couldn't quite get > his weight forward enough to grab the door sill. So he kinda hesitated > and tried to catch his balance and wavered on the step just before it > broke. Maybe if he had a step it would have been a little easier and he > wouldn't have stressed the weld so much. > > Of course, small dent in the skin underneath. > > I'll try and take some pics and post later. May be the weekend before I > can address the issue. > > Dr Fred > > 515 FW. > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Subject: Re: Step
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Has anyone considered putting a grab handle under the right rear window to help passengers come aboard? On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 4:48 PM, Pascal wrote: > > Sounds like 300lbs is the limit on the step. Regardless of the rust I think > there needs to be a concern that the step is a sore spot on the planes. > While up at a VAF Socal meeting and show and tell there was a RV-7 that had > a missing step as well. Seems many have commented on the weak weld and need > to reweld the step before it breaks. > I am seriously thinking of a portable step for my passengers. It may be a > hassle, for the few times I do it, but it will be better than a broken step > that will force me to do more later. > Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First engine start
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2011
My mag is impulse coupled. Started with the lightspeed disabled on the first run. The second run had them both enabled, although the key switch grounds out the Lightspeed in the start position, but as soon as I release it and I am in the both position there is a noticeable smoothing of the engine. I like the videos. My airport manager filmed my first run on her iphone. and she hasn't been able to send it to me yet. I am looking at my first flight on February 6th or 7th. I'll see how the re-assembly goes. I am also changing the upper cowl faster from the hinge to the Skybolt fastners, so there is a days work. Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328321#328321 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Subject: Re: First engine start
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Has anyone had a kickback issue (or any other issues) starting with both lightspeed+mag on the (I)O-540? -Rob On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 4:32 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote: > > My mag is impulse coupled. Started with the lightspeed disabled on the > first run. The second run had them both enabled, although the key switch > grounds out the Lightspeed in the start position, but as soon as I release > it and I am in the both position there is a noticeable smoothing of the > engine. I like the videos. My airport manager filmed my first run on her > iphone. and she hasn't been able to send it to me yet. I am looking at my > first flight on February 6th or 7th. I'll see how the re-assembly goes. I am > also changing the upper cowl faster from the hinge to the Skybolt fastners, > so there is a days work. > > Eric > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328321#328321 > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel caps
From: "mvultaggio" <mvultaggio(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Curious. If the Andair fuel caps leak a little when the tanks are totally full, does that mean they also allow water to get in the tanks in a rain storm? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328328#328328 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Finish Kit Inventory
From: "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Can anybody email me a RV10 inventory list for the finish kit? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328329#328329 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Step
Date: Jan 24, 2011
We have a handle mounted on the curve of the fuselage above the step on our Saratoga, and I plan on adding 2 ea type handles to my -10 one on each side makes climbing the step much easier and safer. John G. Cumins 40864 Wings Rib riveting -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 4:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Step Has anyone considered putting a grab handle under the right rear window to help passengers come aboard? On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 4:48 PM, Pascal wrote: > > Sounds like 300lbs is the limit on the step. Regardless of the rust I > think there needs to be a concern that the step is a sore spot on the planes. > While up at a VAF Socal meeting and show and tell there was a RV-7 > that had a missing step as well. Seems many have commented on the weak > weld and need to reweld the step before it breaks. > I am seriously thinking of a portable step for my passengers. It may > be a hassle, for the few times I do it, but it will be better than a > broken step that will force me to do more later. > Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: fuel caps
Date: Jan 24, 2011
I wondered the same thing. I am happy to report that I have parked my airplane out in the rain overnight on a few occasions and have never seen even a drop of water come out of the sumps. I wonder if the slight pressurization of the tanks through the tank vents when in flight doesn't contribute to the "full tanks fuel out the key slot" issue with the Newton/Andair caps? David Maib 40559 flying On Jan 24, 2011, at 8:15 PM, mvultaggio wrote: > > Curious. If the Andair fuel caps leak a little when the tanks are > totally full, does that mean they also allow water to get in the > tanks in a rain storm? > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328328#328328 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Step
Date: Jan 24, 2011
I put handles above the rear windows, and many others have as well. They are similar to handles on the older Bonanza I used to fly, and they work well. David Maib 40559 flying On Jan 24, 2011, at 7:29 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Has anyone considered putting a grab handle under the right rear > window to help passengers come aboard? > > On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 4:48 PM, Pascal > wrote: >> >> Sounds like 300lbs is the limit on the step. Regardless of the >> rust I think >> there needs to be a concern that the step is a sore spot on the >> planes. >> While up at a VAF Socal meeting and show and tell there was a RV-7 >> that had >> a missing step as well. Seems many have commented on the weak weld >> and need >> to reweld the step before it breaks. >> I am seriously thinking of a portable step for my passengers. It >> may be a >> hassle, for the few times I do it, but it will be better than a >> broken step >> that will force me to do more later. >> Pascal > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Step
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Is there an upper limit on the size of a single passenger or pilot? It seems that there would be a limit to how much can walk on the wing or that the seat and seat belts can support during CAT or high G maneuvers. Roger > On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 4:48 PM, Pascal > > wrote: > >> >> Sounds like 300lbs is the limit on the step. Regardless of the >> rust I think >> there needs to be a concern that the step is a sore spot on the >> planes. >> While up at a VAF Socal meeting and show and tell there was a RV-7 >> that had >> a missing step as well. Seems many have commented on the weak weld >> and need >> to reweld the step before it breaks. >> I am seriously thinking of a portable step for my passengers. It >> may be a >> hassle, for the few times I do it, but it will be better than a >> broken step >> that will force me to do more later. >> Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: fuel caps
Date: Jan 25, 2011
yes. On 25/01/2011, at 2:15 PM, mvultaggio wrote: > > Curious. If the Andair fuel caps leak a little when the tanks are totally full, does that mean they also allow water to get in the tanks in a rain storm? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328328#328328 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Landing gear shake
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Thank you for the feedback. I plan to replace the main tires and brake pads soon and will be mindful of the items you all have mentioned. More to follow... Roger ----- Original Message ----- From: Phillip Perry<mailto:philperry9(at)gmail.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 6:28 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake > I have a static balancer and found that following Van's 'red dot' plans but the tire/wheel assemblies at the most extreme out of balance scenario. I eventually had to install the red dot 180 degrees opposite of Vans plans and still add weight to bring the assembly into balance. This was true on both of the mains. I can't speak for Vans nosewheel because I went with the Matco setup. Your milage may vary, but this was just waht I found on mine after balancing them. On 1/23/11, Carl Froehlich > wrote: > Good discussions on this in the archive. > > > > Standard things to check: > > - Balance all wheels/tire assemblies. I use the stick on weights - > available at Matco. > > - Check main gear hub cap for proper load on the wheel bearings. > The wheel should spin a turn or so after a good hand push. > > - Check that you don't have an out of round tire. > > - On the nose gear install the Matco replacement axel if not > already done: > http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html .matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html> This enables > a fixed preload on the nose bearing that is not affected by axel to fork > mounting bolt torque. Note - a nose gear shimmy can induce a main gear > vibration. > > > > Carl Froehlich > > RV-8A (600 hours) > > RV-10 (just finishing cowl and plenum install) > > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley > Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 8:41 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Landing gear shake > > > > > Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I > have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too > much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but > nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph > are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be > rapidly moving forward and back. > > Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the > shaking that anyone has discovered? > > > > Thank you, > > > > Roger Standley > > N291RV > > 165 hours > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Finish Kit Inventory
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Here you go.... bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mds4878 Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 8:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Inventory Can anybody email me a RV10 inventory list for the finish kit? Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328329#328329 Packing List Order : 8-29808 Order Date:12.09.08 Ship Date :12.09.08 Page Num : 1 Customer: Ship To: NB209 SAMPLE rv-10 fin OVER-COUNTER SALES ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Ship Via:WILL CALL ORDER PULLED BY: CHECKED BY: ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Qty Picked Qty to Pick Item Number Description ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- __________ 1.00 RV-10 FINISH IO-540 KIT================== ________ 1.00 C-1002A-L CABIN DOOR OUTR.SHELL ________ 1.00 C-1002A-R CABIN DOOR OUTR.SHELL ________ 1.00 C-1002B-L CABIN DOOR INER.SHELL ________ 1.00 C-1002B-R CABIN DOOR INER.SHELL ________ 1.00 C-1003-L LEFT DOOR WINDOW ________ 1.00 C-1003-R RIGHT DOOR WINDOW ________ 1.00 CA SEAT ASSEMBLY -10 L/R SEAT ASSY/CUSHNS " ________ 1.00 COWL,10 BOT.IO-540 COWL BOTTOM " " ________ 1.00 COWL,10 TOP IO-540 COWL TOP " ________ 2.00 U 15X6.0-6 MAIN TIRE 6 PLY RV-10 ________ 2.00 U 15X6.0-6IT INNER TUBE MAIN RV-10 ________ 1.00 U 5:00X5-6 6 PLY TIRE MAIN GEAR ________ 1.00 U 5:00X5-6IT TUBE FOR 5:005-6 " ________ 1.00 U CLEVELAND 199-104A 6"" RV-10 WHEELS SETS " X ________ 1.00 U NW501.25 NOSE WHEEL W/BEARINGS $127 ________ 1.00 U-1001-L-PC MAIN GEAR LEG ________ 1.00 U-1001-R-PC MAIN GEAR LEG ________ 2.00 U-1004A AXLE NUT ON GEAR LEG ________ 1.00 U-1013A WHL.FAIR.NOSE FRONT ________ 1.00 U-1013B WHL.FAIR.NOSE REAR ________ 2.00 U-1057A MAIN WHL.FAIRNG.FRONT ________ 2.00 U-1057B MAIN WHL.FAIRING REAR X can't find ________ 2.00 VENT SV-10 VENT FRESH AIR ________ 1.00 WD-1001-D1-PC 10A DYNA-1 ENG.MNT. ________ 1.00 WD-1016-PC NOSE GEAR LINK ASSY. ________ 1.00 WD-1017-PC NOSE GEAR STRUT ________ 2.00 AN257-P3X6' HINGE X 6' ________ 1.00 HINGE PIANO 063X3' LEG FAIRING HINGE ALL ________ 1.00 HINGE PIANO 063X6' 063 PIANO HINGE ________ 1.00 SSP-090X6' STAINLESS STEEL PIN ________ 1.00 SSP-120X6' STAINLESS STEEL PIN ________ 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT ________ 1.00 RUBBER DOOR SEALX25' VA-198 DOOR SEAL " ________ 1.00 SPINNER, C/S-13 C/S SPINNER KIT ALL " " ________ 1.00 S-601-1 FG SPINNER BOWL 13"" " " ________ 1.00 S-602-1 FP,CS,SEN 13""BACK PLT " ________ 1.00 S-602B RV-6 CS DOUBLER PLATE ________ 1.00 S-603 RV-6 CS SPIN FRNT PLT ________ 1.00 BAG 924-3 C/S SPINNER HARDWARE ________ 1.00 BAG 945 ADDED SPINNER HWDRE ________ 1.00 DOC C/S SPINNER INSTALLATION DOCUMENT ________ 1.00 DWG C-4 SPINNER INSTALL ALL ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 2.00 AS3-020X1/2X48 WINGTIP BACK STRIP ________ 1.00 10A PLANS FINISH PLANS & MANUAL ________ 1.00 10 DOOR LATCH SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT KIT ________ 1.00 10 FIN SUB-KIT 1 MISC.PARTS ________ 2.00 C-1002C GAS STRUT ATT.DOUBLER ________ 2.00 C-1008 HANDLE LEVER X C-1016 HD ________ 2.00 C-1016 DOOR STRUT GAS STRUT FOR RV-10 $39 for C-1016 $109 for C-1016 HD " ________ 2.00 C-RACK 10"" GEAR RACK " ________ 1.00 F-10108A {10 FIN} {INV.COUNTER} ________ 1.00 F-10108B SPLICE PLATE ________ 1.00 F-10108C PLATE ________ 2.00 F-10109 LOUVER ________ 2.00 U-1003-PC BRAKE MOUNT ? ________ 1.00 U-1009 AXLE ________ 1.00 U-1010-L MAIN WHL.FAIRING BRKT ________ 1.00 U-1010-R MAIN WHL.FAIRING BRKT ________ 1.00 U-1013C-L N.WHEEL PANT BRACKET ________ 1.00 U-1013C-R N.WHEEL PANT BRACKET ________ 1.00 WD-1015-PC LINK CAP ASSY. ________ 2.00 WD-1022-PC DOOR HANDLE ASSEMBLY ________ 2.00 WD-1023-PC GAS STRUT BRACKET ________ 1.00 WD-1031-PC AXLE FLANGE ________ 1.00 AS3-063X5X10.469 AS 5X10.469 " ________ 1.00 FBGLS.PARABEAM 9X30 FBGLS CLOTH 9""X30"" " ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 1.00 10 FIN SUB-KIT 2 MISC.PARTS ________ 1.00 C-1011-L FWD.LATCH PIN ________ 1.00 C-1011-R FWD.LATCH PIN ________ 1.00 C-1012-L AFT LATCH PIN ASSY. ________ 1.00 C-1012-R AFT LATCH PIN ASSY. ________ 2.00 U-1017A GEAR LEG FAIRING MAIN ________ 1.00 U-1018A NOSE GEAR LEG FAIRING ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 1.00 10 FIN SUB-KIT 3 MISC.PARTS " ________ 1.00 COWL,10 INLET LEFT INLET LEFT " " ________ 1.00 COWL,10 INLET RIGHT INLET RIGHT " ________ 1.00 COWL-10-01A COWL OIL DOOR ________ 1.00 COWL-10-01B OIL DOOR CORE ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 1.00 10 FIN SUB-KIT 4 MISC.PARTS ________ 1.00 U-1019-L LWR.INTERSECT.FAIRING ________ 1.00 U-1019-R LWR.INTERSECT.FAIRING ________ 1.00 U-1020-L UPR.INTERSECT.FAIRING ________ 1.00 U-1020-R UPR.INTERSECT.FAIRING ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 1.00 10 FIN SUB-KIT 5 MISC.PARTS ________ 1.00 WD-1030 NOSE FORK ________ 4.00 EA J-11968-14 GEAR ELASTOMER -10 ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 1.00 10A FINISH HARDWARE HARDWARE BAGS ________ 1.00 BAG 1501 AN426AD3-3.5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1502 AN426AD3-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1503 AN426AD3-4.5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1504 AN426AD3-5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1507 AN426AD4-5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1510 AN470AD3-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1512 AN470AD4-5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1514 RIVET CCR264SS-3-2 ________ 1.00 BAG 1516 RIVET LP4-3 ________ 1.00 BAG 1518 AN3 BOLTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1520 AN4 BOLTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1521 AN5 BOLTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1522 AN6/AN7 BOLTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1523 SCREWS 632/832 ________ 1.00 BAG 1524 MISC. NUTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1525 SCREWS: FLATHEAD ________ 1.00 BAG 1526-1 SCREWS SS 632/832/SMS ________ 1.00 BAG 1527 NUTS: 10-32 ________ 1.00 BAG 1528 HOSE CLAMPS ________ 1.00 BAG 1529 MISC. LARGE WASHERS ________ 1.00 BAG 1530 MISC. SMALL WASHERS ________ 1.00 BAG 1531 CAMLOCKS ________ 1.00 BAG 1532 MISC PLATENUTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1533 K1000-06 PLATENUTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1534 K1000-08 PLATENUTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1535-1 AXLE HWR ________ 1.00 BAG 1536 MISC. HI TEMP STOPNUT ________ 1.00 BAG 1537 MISC. LOCKNUTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1539 MISC. COTTER PINS ________ 1.00 BAG 1541 MISC ________ 1.00 BAG 1542 WASHERS ________ 1.00 BAG 1545 MISC. HARDWARE ________ 1.00 BAG 1546 MISC. HARDWARE ________ 1.00 BAG 1547 MISC. HARDWARE ________ 1.00 BAG 1548 MISC. HARDWARE ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
Date: Jan 24, 2011
Another method for the ray allen servo wires for those that might not have seen it http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html With the E6000 and heat shrink it provides very effective strain relief. If you go to the trouble of trimming the db-9 connectors metal shells the whole assembly is very lite. Ben Westfall On 1/23/2011 8:59 PM, Les Kearney wrote: Hi Linn A small but perhaps important question. What kind of lug do you attach? Crimp on ring terminal? Usually. I put a little (1/2") heat shrink on the braid, crimp the terminal, and then do the shrinking. Don't cheap out on the crimp connectors, and use a good crimper. Hammers and vice grips don't hack it. Not saying you'd do that, but you'd be surprised how many do. Linn Cheers Les ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Finish Kit Inventory
Date: Jan 24, 2011
I would ask Vans to send you the inventory for the finish kit. I saw a kit this weekend and noticed there were different parts sent to that builder than I received. Probably 1-2 year difference in kit receipt. remove half the items!! My biggest mistake was not getting "real" door seals- I am still fine tuning the work I did to make the doors fit. dont even think of getting the seals Vans sends Get the tires from Desser, get the windows from Cee Baileys get the front axle and wheels from Matco get on a aftermarket site for the RV-10 and buy the 180 degree door mechanism. the wheel pant extensions whatever you do for the doors when gluing together, lay a few layers of glass all around the doors to make them stiffer, they are waaaaayyyyy to flimsy per the plans instructions. P -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 7:16 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit Inventory Here you go.... bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mds4878 Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 8:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Inventory Can anybody email me a RV10 inventory list for the finish kit? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328329#328329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2011
Subject: Re: Finish Kit Inventory
From: Mike Schulz <mike(at)profishenterprises.com>
Bob, THANK YOU On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 9:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > Here you go.... > > bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mds4878 > Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 8:18 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Inventory > > > Can anybody email me a RV10 inventory list for the finish kit? > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328329#328329 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2011
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Step
David ; Do you know if the step material is 4130? And to answer the other question, the guy didn't injure himself. Just dropped straight down. Didn't hit the flap edge. He never got up that far. I was thinking about the tipping issue when he climbed in. Dr Fred 515FW On 1/24/2011 5:40 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net wrote: > One of my steps had a stress crack about 3/8" long on the top of the > step weld where it joins the strut. There was a small pit where it > started in the middle. I have a TIG welder so I re-welded both steps > adding quite a bit of filler as I went along. No way I want to have > to remove one if/when one breaks, and that particular step would have > broke real quickly. I am now waiting them to come back from chroming > so I can get them installed and install the baggage floors. > > David Clifford > > RV-10 Builder > N849RV (reserved) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> > To: "RV 10" > Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 5:06:05 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Step > > > > > I wanted to add another data point to the broken step. I took some > friends up for a ride this weekend. As a 300 lb guy was getting into > the plane, the right step broke off . Same place as previous notes. > Weld broke, looked like minimal weld material at top. I had a > significant amount of rust inside. I remember that I did put some > primer inside the tube. Will have to cut access holes to get to the bolt. > > May be something to think about if you have a heavy person to get in the > plane. Might want to get a small step stool out to help them get up a > little higher. When he was getting in the plane, he couldn't quite get > his weight forward enough to grab the door sill. So he kinda hesitated > and tried to catch his balance and wavered on the step just before it > broke. Maybe if he had a step it would have been a little easier and he > wouldn't have stressed the weld so much. > > Of course, small dent in the skin underneath. > > I'll try and take some pics and post later. May be the weekend before > I <======================= > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2011
Subject: Re: Finish Kit Inventory
From: John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com>
Why does all the new stuff come out right after I place my order for a kit??? On Tue, Jan 25, 2011 at 8:14 AM, Mike Schulz wrote: > Bob, > THANK YOU > > On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 9:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> >> Here you go.... >> >> bob >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mds4878 >> Sent: Monday, January 24, 2011 8:18 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Inventory >> >> >> Can anybody email me a RV10 inventory list for the finish kit? >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328329#328329 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Step
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jan 25, 2011
David, (Sorry for the thread high-jack everyone), would you mind posting some more details on the handle (where to buy, how you installed, etc)? Thanks, Todd -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328413#328413 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2011
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Step
Do you have any pics too post on those handles?=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________ ___________________=0AFrom: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matr onics.com=0ASent: Mon, January 24, 2011 6:40:41 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List =0AI put handles above the rear windows, and many others have as well. They are =0Asimilar to handles on the older Bonanza I used to fly, and they wor k well.=0A=0ADavid Maib=0A40559=0Aflying=0A=0AOn Jan 24, 2011, at 7:29 PM, n =0A> =0A> Has anyone considered putting a grab handle under the right rear=0A> window to help passengers come aboard?=0A> =0A> On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 4:48 PM, Pascal wrote:=0A>> =0A>> Sounds like 300lbs is the limit on the step. Regardless of the rust I think=0A>> there needs to be a concern that the step is a sore spot on the planes.=0A>> While up at a VAF Socal meeting and show and tell there was a RV-7 that had=0A>> a missing step as well. Seems many have commented on th e weak weld and need=0A>> to reweld the step before it breaks.=0A>> I am se riously thinking of a portable step for my passengers. It may be a=0A>> has sle, for the few times I do it, but it will be better than a broken step=0A >> that will force me to do more later.=0A>> Pascal=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A ===============0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Boarding Handle
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Jan 25, 2011
I decided to start this instead of continuing to hijack the Step thread. I cannot find any close up photo's of my handles. Here is one from a distance that shows the location very clearly. These are just cabinet or door pulls from the Home Depot aviation department. Drilled through the cabin top and installed with stainless screws. The screw heads are now covered by my headliner. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328462#328462 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1856_450.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Boarding Handle
Date: Jan 25, 2011
Here is another example. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)me.com Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 2:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: Boarding Handle I decided to start this instead of continuing to hijack the Step thread. I cannot find any close up photo's of my handles. Here is one from a distance that shows the location very clearly. These are just cabinet or door pulls from the Home Depot aviation department. Drilled through the cabin top and installed with stainless screws. The screw heads are now covered by my headliner. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328462#328462 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1856_450.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Boarding Handle
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jan 25, 2011
Thanks David! OK I've got ask--what's the panel in the your tailcone just aft of the cabin cover? -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328480#328480 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Boarding Handle
Date: Jan 25, 2011
Air conditioning access panels. David Maib 40559 flying On Jan 25, 2011, at 3:21 PM, tsts4 wrote: > > Thanks David! > > OK I've got ask--what's the panel in the your tailcone just aft of > the cabin cover? > > -------- > Todd Stovall > 728TT (reserved) > RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328480#328480 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Byron&Donya" <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Subject: Another official flying RV10
Date: Jan 25, 2011
For those keeping track, another joins the flying ranks. I posted on the Van's first flight page and thought I would post here as well. Although I don't post much, I follow the posts daily and appreciate the wealth of knowledge. Thanks to all who have gone before me! I am pleased to announce that N253RV made its first flight with Owner/Builder on board Sunday evening Jan 22, 2011 out of KDQH (Douglas, GA). The flight was very un-eventful - as I had hoped it would be. The actual first flight (test pilot in command) uncovered an electronic ignition timing issue (builder induced) that generated high engine temps. This now resolved - things are looking great. The aircraft is powered by a first time rebuild IO540 (LightSpeed electronic ign. + Magneto) with the Hartzell constant speed prop. The panel centers around a twin Chelton EFIS, AF3400 Engine Monitor, PMA8000 Audio, TruTrak Digiflight II A/P, and Garmin SL30/40 nav/coms. Panel by Stein Aircraft and interior by Flightline interiors. The frame was quick build wings and all else standard. The total projects weighed in at 1698# w/o paint. I would like to thank a few folks: My wife and riveter Donya who has named the plane "The Mistress". Stein who really came through with a beautiful panel in the midst of the D2A fiasco. Vic Syracuse - DAR and initial test pilot, and David Maib who provided some additional last minute transitional stick time, and the whole group of folks on the RV-10 Matronics list. Thanks to all! Byron Gillespie [bgill1 at charter.net] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Byron&Donya" <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Subject: Another official flying RV10
Date: Jan 25, 2011
For those keeping track, another joins the flying ranks. I posted on the Van's first flight page and thought I would post here as well. Although I don't post much, I follow the posts daily and appreciate the wealth of knowledge. Thanks to all who have gone before me! I am pleased to announce that N253RV made its first flight with Owner/Builder on board Sunday evening Jan 22, 2011 out of KDQH (Douglas, GA). The flight was very un-eventful - as I had hoped it would be. The actual first flight (test pilot in command) uncovered an electronic ignition timing issue (builder induced) that generated high engine temps. This now resolved - things are looking great. The aircraft is powered by a first time rebuild IO540 (LightSpeed electronic ign. + Magneto) with the Hartzell constant speed prop. The panel centers around a twin Chelton EFIS, AF3400 Engine Monitor, PMA8000 Audio, TruTrak Digiflight II A/P, and Garmin SL30/40 nav/coms. Panel by Stein Aircraft and interior by Flightline interiors. The frame was quick build wings and all else standard. The total projects weighed in at 1698# w/o paint. I would like to thank a few folks: My wife and riveter Donya who has named the plane "The Mistress". Stein who really came through with a beautiful panel in the midst of the D2A fiasco. Vic Syracuse - DAR and initial test pilot, and David Maib who provided some additional last minute transitional stick time, and the whole group of folks on the RV-10 Matronics list. Thanks to all! Byron Gillespie [bgill1 at charter.net] ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Another official flying RV10
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 25, 2011
Welcome to the flying ranks. Now the fun begins!! -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328519#328519 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2011
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Another official flying RV10
Congrats, and welcome to the family.... now to really be IN the family, you need =0Ato become a little more envolved.- (--;=0ALook forward to meetin g up.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Byron&Donya =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue , January 25, 2011 8:26:54 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Another official flying RV10=0A=0AFor those keeping track, another joins the flying ranks. I poste d on the=0AVan's first flight page and thought I would post here as well. A lthough I=0Adon't post much, I follow the posts daily and appreciate the we alth of=0Aknowledge. Thanks to all who have gone before me! =0A=0A=0AI am p leased to announce that N253RV made its first flight with=0AOwner/Builder o n board Sunday evening Jan 22, 2011 out of KDQH (Douglas,=0AGA). The flight was very un-eventful - as I had hoped it would be. The=0Aactual first flig ht (test pilot in command) uncovered an electronic ignition=0Atiming issue (builder induced) that generated high engine temps. This now=0Aresolved - t hings are looking great.=0A=0AThe aircraft is powered by a first time rebui ld IO540 (LightSpeed electronic=0Aign. + Magneto) with the Hartzell constan t speed prop. The panel centers=0Aaround a twin Chelton EFIS, AF3400 Engine Monitor, PMA8000 Audio, TruTrak=0ADigiflight II A/P, and Garmin SL30/40 na v/coms.- Panel by Stein Aircraft and=0Ainterior by Flightline interiors. The frame was quick build wings and all=0Aelse standard. The total projects weighed in at 1698# w/o paint.=0A=0AI would like to thank a few folks: My wife and riveter Donya who has named=0Athe plane "The Mistress". Stein who really came through with a beautiful=0Apanel in the midst of the D2A fiasco .- Vic Syracuse - DAR and initial test=0Apilot, and David Maib who provid ed some additional last minute transitional=0Astick time, and the whole gro up of folks on the RV-10 Matronics list.=0AThanks to all!=0A=0AByron Gilles pie=0A[bgill1 at charter.net]=0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos
Date: Jan 25, 2011
Hi Ben I have done this for one of my rudder trim servo and POS12 flap position indicator. 'Lectric Bob's method was easy enough to do. I also mounted a CPC 9 pin connector on my elevator tim bracket for that servo. I borrowed this idea from another builders site ( I can't remember whose). I like the CPC in that loaction as it is easy to install / remove the connection. Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: January-24-11 9:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Speaking of Ray Allen Servos Another method for the ray allen servo wires for those that might not have seen it http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html With the E6000 and heat shrink it provides very effective strain relief. If you go to the trouble of trimming the db-9 connectors metal shells the whole assembly is very lite. Ben Westfall On 1/23/2011 8:59 PM, Les Kearney wrote: Hi Linn A small but perhaps important question. What kind of lug do you attach? Crimp on ring terminal? Usually. I put a little (1/2") heat shrink on the braid, crimp the terminal, and then do the shrinking. Don't cheap out on the crimp connectors, and use a good crimper. Hammers and vice grips don't hack it. Not saying you'd do that, but you'd be surprised how many do. Linn Cheers Les ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2011
Subject: Re: Another official flying RV10
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Congratulations! On Tue, Jan 25, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Don McDonald wrote: > Congrats, and welcome to the family.... now to really be IN the family, > you need to become a little more envolved. (--; > Look forward to meeting up. > Don McDonald > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Byron&Donya > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Tue, January 25, 2011 8:26:54 PM > *Subject:* RV10-List: Another official flying RV10 > > For those keeping track, another joins the flying ranks. I posted on the > Van's first flight page and thought I would post here as well. Although I > don't post much, I follow the posts daily and appreciate the wealth of > knowledge. Thanks to all who have gone before me! > > > I am pleased to announce that N253RV made its first flight with > Owner/Builder on board Sunday evening Jan 22, 2011 out of KDQH (Douglas, > GA). The flight was very un-eventful - as I had hoped it would be. The > actual first flight (test pilot in command) uncovered an electronic > ignition > timing issue (builder induced) that generated high engine temps. This now > resolved - things are looking great. > > The aircraft is powered by a first time rebuild IO540 (LightSpeed > electronic > ign. + Magneto) with the Hartzell constant speed prop. The panel centers > around a twin Chelton EFIS, AF3400 Engine Monitor, PMA8000 Audio, TruTrak > Digiflight II A/P, and Garmin SL30/40 nav/coms. Panel by Stein Aircraft > and > interior by Flightline interiors. The frame was quick build wings and all > else standard. The total projects weighed in at 1698# w/o paint. > > I would like to thank a few folks: My wife and riveter Donya who has named > the plane "The Mistress". Stein who really came through with a beautiful > panel in the midst of the D2A fiasco. Vic Syracuse - DAR and initial test > pilot, and David Maib who provided some additional last minute transitional > stick time, and the whole group of folks on the RV-10 Matronics list. > Thanks to all! > > Byron Gillespie > [bgill1 at charter.net] > > * > > * > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Doors redux
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would be appreciated. Kelly #40866 allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Doors redux
Date: Jan 26, 2011
If I was building my doors, with what I know now, I would put a minimum of 2-3 layers of fiberglass MAT around the inside of the doors so they weren't so flimsy. That wont take too much space to do. -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 7:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Doors redux I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would be appreciated. Kelly #40866 allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John J" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Another official flying RV10
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Congratulations! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Doors redux
Kelly, one thing I would add to figure out is a definitive answer as to if the iflyrv-10 flush handles work with Sean's new 180 degree kit. I've heard of the flush handles working with the 90 degree retro kit, but have yet to hear of them installed with a new 180 degree kit. Anyone out there with flush handles and Sean's new 180 degree kit? -Sean (the other Sean) #40303 On 1/26/11 9:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen > > I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door > construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge > reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch > upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door > seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications > need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want > to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with > the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room > left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would > be appreciated. > Kelly > #40866 > allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
In addition to the latches, I'd make sure you figure out what you're doing for door locks (if anything) before gluing the doors. -Rob On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 8:18 AM, Pascal wrote: > > If I was building my doors, with what I know now, I would put a minimum of > 2-3 layers of fiberglass MAT around the inside of the doors so they weren't > so flimsy. That wont take too much space to do. > > -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 7:05 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Doors redux > > > I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door > construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge > reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch > upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door > seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications > need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want > to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with > the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room > left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would > be appreciated. > Kelly > #40866 > allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing. > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Sean, you are correct. I have shipped 180 kits for customers that installed the flush handles and later they returned the extra racks. The flush handle is the limiting factor. My 180 and 90 gearboxes are identical and can travel over two inches. The cost difference is the expensive rack gears needed for retrofit 180's where the new 180's use the uncut vans racks supplied in the kit. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 26, 2011, at 9:29, Sean Stephens wrote: > > Kelly, one thing I would add to figure out is a definitive answer as to if the iflyrv-10 flush handles work with Sean's new 180 degree kit. I've heard of the flush handles working with the 90 degree retro kit, but have yet to hear of them installed with a new 180 degree kit. > > Anyone out there with flush handles and Sean's new 180 degree kit? > > -Sean (the other Sean) #40303 > > On 1/26/11 9:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen >> >> I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door >> construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge >> reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch >> upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door >> seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications >> need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want >> to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with >> the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room >> left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would >> be appreciated. >> Kelly >> #40866 >> allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing. >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Hanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Subject: pictures of access panels
Date: Jan 26, 2011
David, Nice talking with you. Please send any pictures you might find of your access panel install. Tom Hanaway Boynton Beach, FL 561-702-5456 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: pictures of access panels
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Here are the best photo's I have, Tom. Best regards, David Maib 612-202-6309 On Jan 26, 2011, at 1:38 PM, Tom Hanaway wrote: > > > > David, > Nice talking with you. Please send any pictures you might find of > your > access panel install. > > Tom Hanaway > Boynton Beach, FL > 561-702-5456 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Hanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Subject: pictures of access panels
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Sorry, Mean't to be private. Tom -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Hanaway Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 1:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: pictures of access panels David, Nice talking with you. Please send any pictures you might find of your access panel install. Tom Hanaway Boynton Beach, FL 561-702-5456 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ACK E-04 ELT
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 26, 2011
I've been told to expect mine in March... for what it's worth. John -------- #40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328590#328590 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Are you saying to add glass to the areas where the bond occurs, or to the areas that don't bond together? Is your concern stiffness vs flexing or??? While aluminum formed doors are relatively strong on production aircraft, they also can be called flimsy as they aren't hard to bend and have minimal wt. I don't think that any amount of glass will turn the doors into the equivalent of a Mercedes door, gullwing or not. On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 9:18 AM, Pascal wrote: > > If I was building my doors, with what I know now, I would put a minimum of > 2-3 layers of fiberglass MAT around the inside of the doors so they weren't > so flimsy. That wont take too much space to do. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Let me try to understand. The flush handles simply cannot rotate a full 180, so 90 degree install is the only thing that works? Or that if the racks are not yet cut(mine are not) the 180 is possible? It isn't a deal breaker for me if 90 is all that is possible. On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 9:56 AM, Seano wrote: > > Sean, you are correct. I have shipped 180 kits for customers that installed the flush handles and later they returned the extra racks. The flush handle is the limiting factor. My 180 and 90 gearboxes are identical and can travel over two inches. The cost difference is the expensive rack gears needed for retrofit 180's where the new 180's use the uncut vans racks supplied in the kit. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 26, 2011, at 9:29, Sean Stephens wrote: > >> >> Kelly, one thing I would add to figure out is a definitive answer as to if the iflyrv-10 flush handles work with Sean's new 180 degree kit. I've heard of the flush handles working with the 90 degree retro kit, but have yet to hear of them installed with a new 180 degree kit. >> >> Anyone out there with flush handles and Sean's new 180 degree kit? >> >> -Sean (the other Sean) #40303 >> >> On 1/26/11 9:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: >>> >>> I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door >>> construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge >>> reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch >>> upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door >>> seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications >>> need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want >>> to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with >>> the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room >>> left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would >>> be appreciated. >>> Kelly >>> #40866 >>> allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 26, 2011
The 180 new or the 90 will work on your stock vans handle with your uncut gear racks. The 90 and the 180 retro work on cut gear racks per vans instructions. Only the 90 will work on the flush handles. If the flush handles turn 90 - 130 degrees you can still use the 90 kit. The difference between the 90 and the 180 new is the supplied guides for the 180 kit. They are needed since the pushrods can be timed to retract into the door about 3/4 inch and allow the cam to fully engage before the pins come out the door. The guides prevent the pushrods from falling into the door structure. You can also time the 90 degree kit to pull before the pins come out but the more rotation over 90 the better. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 26, 2011, at 13:30, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Let me try to understand. The flush handles simply cannot rotate a > full 180, so 90 degree install is the only thing that works? Or that > if the racks are not yet cut(mine are not) the 180 is possible? It > isn't a deal breaker for me if 90 is all that is possible. > > On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 9:56 AM, Seano wrote: >> >> Sean, you are correct. I have shipped 180 kits for customers that installed the flush handles and later they returned the extra racks. The flush handle is the limiting factor. My 180 and 90 gearboxes are identical and can travel over two inches. The cost difference is the expensive rack gears needed for retrofit 180's where the new 180's use the uncut vans racks supplied in the kit. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jan 26, 2011, at 9:29, Sean Stephens wrote: >> >>> >>> Kelly, one thing I would add to figure out is a definitive answer as to if the iflyrv-10 flush handles work with Sean's new 180 degree kit. I've heard of the flush handles working with the 90 degree retro kit, but have yet to hear of them installed with a new 180 degree kit. >>> >>> Anyone out there with flush handles and Sean's new 180 degree kit? >>> >>> -Sean (the other Sean) #40303 >>> >>> On 1/26/11 9:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: >>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen >>>> >>>> I've been trying to integrate all the various information on the door >>>> construction process for some time. I have the Air Ward hinge >>>> reinforcements. I plan on the iflyrv-10 flush handles, Sean's latch >>>> upgrade and improved strut bracket. Also plan on the McMaster door >>>> seal. What I haven't quite figured out is if any of the modifications >>>> need to be done before bonding the door halves together. I also want >>>> to include whatever amount of insulation I can, recognizing that with >>>> the various indentations and the mechanism there isn't a lot of room >>>> left. Any words of wisdom from those than have blazed the trail would >>>> be appreciated. >>>> Kelly >>>> #40866 >>>> allegedly finish kit, lots left to do before using the word finishing. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John MacCallum" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au>
Subject: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
Date: Jan 27, 2011
G'day all, I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS but I have discovered that it won't fit. The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS. Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS? Cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 Rydal NSW Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com>
The flush handles from iflyrv10.com actually are installed on the aft part of the door. They are attached to the stock mechanism with a "saddle" that attaches to the long pushrod. There's an arm that is connected from the saddle to the actual flush handle mechanism. The limitation is that the arm has limited ability to transfer the horizontal motion to the handle where it attaches to an "ear" of a circular piece. The 90 (110?) degree version of Sean's latch works because it isn't really changing the amount motion on the horizontal tube. If the 180 degree version adds travel to the horizontal rod then it isn't mechanically compatible. Probably would work you just wouldn't get the extra travel for the rod. Clear as mud? Bob On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 2:30 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Let me try to understand. The flush handles simply cannot rotate a > full 180, so 90 degree install is the only thing that works? Or that > if the racks are not yet cut(mine are not) the 180 is possible? It > isn't a deal breaker for me if 90 is all that is possible. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Another official flying RV10
Well done mate.=0A=0AWishing you safe skies always.=0A=0APat=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________=0AFrom: Byron&Donya <bgill1(at)charter.net> =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, 26 January, 2011 12:56:54 PM=0A Subject: RV10-List: Another official flying RV10=0A=0AFor those keeping tra ck, another joins the flying ranks. I posted on the=0AVan's first flight pa ge and thought I would post here as well. Although I=0Adon't post much, I f ollow the posts daily and appreciate the wealth of=0Aknowledge. Thanks to a ll who have gone before me! =0A=0A=0AI am pleased to announce that N253RV m ade its first flight with=0AOwner/Builder on board Sunday evening Jan 22, 2 011 out of KDQH (Douglas,=0AGA). The flight was very un-eventful - as I had hoped it would be. The=0Aactual first flight (test pilot in command) uncov ered an electronic ignition=0Atiming issue (builder induced) that generated high engine temps. This now=0Aresolved - things are looking great.=0A=0ATh e aircraft is powered by a first time rebuild IO540 (LightSpeed electronic =0Aign. + Magneto) with the Hartzell constant speed prop. The panel centers =0Aaround a twin Chelton EFIS, AF3400 Engine Monitor, PMA8000 Audio, TruTra k=0ADigiflight II A/P, and Garmin SL30/40 nav/coms.- Panel by Stein Aircr aft and=0Ainterior by Flightline interiors. The frame was quick build wings and all=0Aelse standard. The total projects weighed in at 1698# w/o paint. =0A=0AI would like to thank a few folks: My wife and riveter Donya who has named=0Athe plane "The Mistress". Stein who really came through with a beau tiful=0Apanel in the midst of the D2A fiasco.- Vic Syracuse - DAR and ini tial test=0Apilot, and David Maib who provided some additional last minute transitional=0Astick time, and the whole group of folks on the RV-10 Matron ics list.=0AThanks to all!=0A=0AByron Gillespie=0A[bgill1 at charter.net] =0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 26, 2011
I did the same thing but enlarged the area with a little glass work to make it fit and pointed the v forward to clear the rudder-glass/composite is me ssy but very forgiving-Jim -----Original Message----- From: John MacCallum <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au> Sent: Wed, Jan 26, 2011 1:56 pm Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna G=99day all, I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS but I have discovered that it won=99t fit. The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS. Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS? Cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 Rydal NSW Australia -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
Date: Jan 26, 2011
All of them have pucks that are fairly good sized. Simply carve out a little bit of the fairing, paint it to match the plane and you'll never notice. Alternatively, you could mount it on the bottom of the plane under the tail as well. Either solution seems to be relatively popular amongst RV-10's that I've seen. My 2 cents as usual. Cheers, Stein From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John MacCallum Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 3:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna G'day all, I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS but I have discovered that it won't fit. The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS. Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS? Cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 Rydal NSW Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Baggage Door Removal
I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and modifying t he =0Abaggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin extraction. =0A-=0AI would appreciate any feedback to determine if-this is warrante d, or if the =0Asimple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable remo val of the door.=0A-=0AFor those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'b uilders of better mouse traps' =0Aout there, who have modified their-bagg age door installation to allow removal (a =0Ala nut plates or the like), wi th other than removal of the hinge pin, I would =0Aappreciate any feedback or photographs of how you did it please.=0A-=0AKind regards from a warm d own-under.=0A-=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
Date: Jan 26, 2011
I have a comant CI-182 installed on my VS under the fiberglass fairing on my RV6A. I don't know if you can still get one - and how the counterweights will affect the installation. Hope these tell enough of the story. ----- Original Message ----- From: John MacCallum To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna G'day all, I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS but I have discovered that it won't fit. The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS. Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS? Cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 Rydal NSW Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Baggage Door Removal
Date: Jan 26, 2011
I used the stock method and have not regretted it. The door opens very wide with the stock high config, so I really have not had a need to remove it. During my annuals (condition inspection) I remove it, but other than that I have not had a need to do it. Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 3:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and modifying the baggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin extraction. I would appreciate any feedback to determine if this is warranted, or if the simple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal of the door. For those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better mouse traps' out there, who have modified their baggage door installation to allow removal (a la nut plates or the like), with other than removal of the hinge pin, I would appreciate any feedback or photographs of how you did it please. Kind regards from a warm down-under. Patrick Pulis Adelaide, South Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Jan 26, 2011
In the interest of clarity... If you go to Steve's website (www.iflyrv10.com), click "Enter Store" you'll be taken to a bunch of pictures of his products. The flush handles are the upper left item. If you then click the "more info" button for the handles you'll see several pictures. The upper left shows the components and you can clearly see the attach mechanism parts. The second picture to the right shows the handle assembly and you can see the ears sticking out that the arm attaches to. Finally, the second picture on the second row shows the mechanism installed in a door. You can see the saddle on the aft horizontal rod and the arm attached to that. It's hard to see in the picture but the ears on the handle are oriented vertically. As the rod moves aft the arm causes the handle mechanism to rotate counter-clockwise. When the rod is fully aft the side of the arm is almost in contact with the body of the handle. If additional travel is added to the rod (to push the rod/pins further into the door jam) it will bind on the handle housing. It's been a while but I think that the internal mechanism on the flush handles also prevents any additional travel in the other direction. The amount of travel is essentially built in to the flush handles so that the rod can move the standard amount and the actual outer handle doesn't move. There's been enough chatter on this that I thought I'd post this for those pondering the situation. The handles work fine in a stock install with or without Sean's center latch (which is a huge safety improvement). If you do combine them with Sean's latch you just won't be able to use the 180 degree version. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328611#328611 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
If it's the antenna with the round 'hockey puck', most of the installations on 'certified' aircraft don't fit! Well, that is until they relieve a slot so that the hockey puck sits a little outside. Linn On 1/26/2011 4:53 PM, John MacCallum wrote: > > G'day all, > > I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on > my VS but I have discovered that it won't fit. > > The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit > into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS. > > Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS? > > Cheers > > John MacCallum > > Builder 41016 > > Rydal NSW Australia > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
Date: Jan 26, 2011
I have that combo on my 10. I just carefully trimmed back the insulator on the sides a little and it fits fine, and works great, spot on. Just make sure it clears the rudder as it deflects full each way. I had to bend the whiskers out a little. I also mounted it on the front top of the VS, and the tip fairing fits around it. Thane ----- Original Message ----- From: John MacCallum To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna G'day all, I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS but I have discovered that it won't fit. The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS. Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS? Cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 Rydal NSW Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Baggage Door Removal
Date: Jan 26, 2011
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Yes. The piano hinge can be replaced with two C hinges allowing easy removal of the door and ease of maintenance. It provides a means to change the door from a two dimensional shape to a three dimensional compound curve if you wanted to get crazy. The "C" style hinge can also allow a greater range of hinged movement. For most, the words "Just follow the plans and build it comes to mind". I thing your questions is more a one time pin removal with intent to reinstall the pin at the end of your journey. John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Patrick Pulis Sent: Wed 1/26/2011 2:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and modifying the baggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin extraction. I would appreciate any feedback to determine if this is warranted, or if the simple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal of the door. For those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better mouse traps' out there, who have modified their baggage door installation to allow removal (a la nut plates or the like), with other than removal of the hinge pin, I would appreciate any feedback or photographs of how you did it please. Kind regards from a warm down-under. Patrick Pulis Adelaide, South Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Baggage Door Removal
Simple solution to build as plans intend and still remove the door with no effort. Very common in the RV world. Photo attached, Robin *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Cox *Sent:* Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:12 PM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal Yes. The piano hinge can be replaced with two C hinges allowing easy removal of the door and ease of maintenance. It provides a means to change the door from a two dimensional shape to a three dimensional compound curve if you wanted to get crazy. The "C" style hinge can also allow a greater range of hinged movement. For most, the words "Just follow the plans and build it comes to mind". I thing your questions is more a one time pin removal with intent to reinstall the pin at the end of your journey. John Cox ------------------------------ *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Patrick Pulis *Sent:* Wed 1/26/2011 2:23 PM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and modifying the baggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin extraction. I would appreciate any feedback to determine if this is warranted, or if the simple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal of the door. For those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better mouse traps' out there, who have modified their baggage door installation to allow removal (a la nut plates or the like), with other than removal of the hinge pin, I would appreciate any feedback or photographs of how you did it please. Kind regards from a warm down-under. Patrick Pulis Adelaide, South Australia * * * * *===========* *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* *===========* *href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com* *===========* *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution* *===========* * * * * * * * * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Here are some pics of my install. I just made a plate with nutplates and blind riveted it on the top of the VS rib and sealed with proseal. I cut it to drop the plate in and cleared a spot for the nutplates. No interference problems with the whiskers and no extra fiberglass work. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328631#328631 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/cw1_133.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/cw_472.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/cat_whisker_624.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Clearer than the OSH mud of this year. ;-)) Thanks Bob. I might survive this phase yet. On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 3:01 PM, Bob Condrey wrote: > The flush handles from iflyrv10.com actually are installed on the aft part > of the door. They are attached to the stock mechanism with a "saddle" that > attaches to the long pushrod. . > > Clear as mud? > > Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I'm confused. The CI-121 is a single rod Com antenna. Could you mean the CI-212 that does look like it has a fat center section? On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 5:04 PM, Thane States wrote: > I have that combo on my 10. I just carefully trimmed back the insulator on > the sides a little and it fits fine, and works great, spot on. Just make > sure it clears the rudder as it deflects full each way. I had to bend the > whiskers out a little. I also mounted it on the front top of the VS, and the > tip fairing fits around it. > Thane > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: John MacCallum > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:53 PM > Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna > > Gday all, > > I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS > but I have discovered that it wont fit. > > The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into > the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS. > > Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS? > > > Cheers > > > John MacCallum > > Builder 41016 > > > Rydal NSW Australia > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > > = > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
John,=C2- I bought a CI 157P antenna which had been installed/mounted und er the =0Atail, and is now removed as I'm=C2-working on the slow build wi ngs at present.=0A=0ARick=0A#40956=0ASouthampton, Ont=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______ _________________________=0AFrom: John MacCallum <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au >=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, January 26, 2011 4:53:32 PM=0A Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna=0A=0A=0AG=99day all,=0AI bough t a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS but =0A =C2-I have discovered that it won=99t fit.=0AThe diameter of the mo unting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into the =0AFibreglass Fair ing on top of the VS.=0AWhich V dipoles have other people used on their VS? =0A=C2-=0ACheers=0A=C2-=0AJohn MacCallum=0ABuilder 41016 =0A=C2-=0AR =================== =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com>
And I'd already blocked that out of my mind... On Wednesday, January 26, 2011, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Clearer than the OSH mud of this year. ;-)) > Thanks Bob. I might survive this phase yet. > > On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 3:01 PM, Bob Condrey wrote: >> The flush handles from iflyrv10.com actually are installed on the aft part >> of the door. They are attached to the stock mechanism with a "saddle" that >> attaches to the long pushrod. . >> >> Clear as mud? >> >> Bob > > >' ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Baggage Door Removal
I haven't finished my install yet, but replaced the hinge rivets on the door frame with #4 Clickbond nut plates and will use countersunk #4 stainless screws. Yes, a little pricey at around $2.10 a nutplate, but very easy to do with almost no time to install with no extra holes that conventional nutplates need. On 1/26/2011 5:12 PM, John Cox wrote: > Yes. The piano hinge can be replaced with two C hinges allowing easy > removal of the door and ease of maintenance. It provides a means to > change the door from a two dimensional shape to a three dimensional > compound curve if you wanted to get crazy. The "C" style hinge can > also allow a greater range of hinged movement. > For most, the words "Just follow the plans and build it comes to mind". > I thing your questions is more a one time pin removal with intent to > reinstall the pin at the end of your journey. > John Cox > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Patrick Pulis > *Sent:* Wed 1/26/2011 2:23 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal > > I'm trying to determine if its worth varying from the plans and > modifying the baggage door to enable removal with other than hinge pin > extraction. > > I would appreciate any feedback to determine if this is warranted, or > if the simple removal of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal > of the door. > > For those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better > mouse traps' out there, who have modified their baggage door > installation to allow removal (a la nut plates or the like), with > other than removal of the hinge pin, I would appreciate any feedback > or photographs of how you did it please. > > Kind regards from a warm down-under. > > Patrick Pulis > > Adelaide, South Australia > > > * > > ========== > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John MacCallum" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au>
Subject: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
Date: Jan 27, 2011
Um yes , Sorry I had the 121 box sitting here next to me and I thought it was the V dipole. So it is a CI-215. Cheers John Mac Builder 41016 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Thursday, 27 January 2011 1:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna I'm confused. The CI-121 is a single rod Com antenna. Could you mean the CI-212 that does look like it has a fat center section? On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 5:04 PM, Thane States wrote: > I have that combo on my 10. I just carefully trimmed back the insulator on > the sides a little and it fits fine, and works great, spot on. Just make > sure it clears the rudder as it deflects full each way. I had to bend the > whiskers out a little. I also mounted it on the front top of the VS, and the > tip fairing fits around it. > Thane > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: John MacCallum > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4:53 PM > Subject: RV10-List: NAV/COM/GS Antenna > > Gday all, > > I bought a Comant CI-121 NAV/COM/GS Antenna (V dipole) to install on my VS > but I have discovered that it wont fit. > > The diameter of the mounting base is 2.5 inches and that will not fit into > the Fibreglass Fairing on top of the VS. > > Which V dipoles have other people used on their VS? > > > Cheers > > > John MacCallum > > Builder 41016 > > > Rydal NSW Australia > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > > = > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FWF/Prop Gov
From: "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
I just picked up my FWF kit this morning. At the moment, I'm not a happy camper. Van's did notify me that the exhaust system would be back ordered and I was ok with that. When I got my kit this morning, I found that other items had been back ordered, specifically one of the dynafocal kits. So I'm at a work stoppage until the fourth dynafocal kit shows up. My other annoyance at the moment is that they substituted a Hartzell Governor for the MT with out any notification. The feedback that I had received previously was that the Hartzell was a couple pounds heavier and maintenance prone. I don't know if this reputation is do to more familiarity with the Hartzell than the MT. I did decide to stay with the MT as oppose to the PCU5000 to save $300. At the moment, I'm planning on sending the Hartzell back to Van's and start a debate over the 10% restocking fee. Am I over reacting? Is the difference in performance, weight, and quality worth the hassle? I plan on calling Van's in a bit after I cool off. Unfortunately, I also had a bad experience again with Fedex-Ground this morning. It's been on of those days. :x bob -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - FWF RV-10 #40684 http://mykitlog.com/rleffler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328686#328686 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Another official flying RV10
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
Congratulations Byron! -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09. Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328689#328689 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: AHRS Mount angle
Date: Jan 27, 2011
I have my AHRS (GRT) mounted behind the baggage bay on the two angles which lay on top of the angle longerons . I see many people have this set up. Best I can tell this does not result in a pitch for the AHRSl which is the same as the door sill (door sill being the level called out for leveling the aircraft). How is this handled ? Do I need to shim it? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 Approaching painting and other "minor" tidbits ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FWF/Prop Gov
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
There are a lot of things that you can do with the FWF kit before hanging the engine. It's worth a call to Van's to find out when the other parts will get in. On the Governor, I haven't heard anything about the Hartzell, but it's worth a call to get them to change it or to see if they have changed from the MT to the Hartzell across the board for the RV-10. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Jan 27, 2011, at 10:47 AM, rleffler wrote: > > I just picked up my FWF kit this morning. At the moment, I'm not a happy camper. > > Van's did notify me that the exhaust system would be back ordered and I was ok with that. When I got my kit this morning, I found that other items had been back ordered, specifically one of the dynafocal kits. So I'm at a work stoppage until the fourth dynafocal kit shows up. > > My other annoyance at the moment is that they substituted a Hartzell Governor for the MT with out any notification. > > The feedback that I had received previously was that the Hartzell was a couple pounds heavier and maintenance prone. I don't know if this reputation is do to more familiarity with the Hartzell than the MT. I did decide to stay with the MT as oppose to the PCU5000 to save $300. > > At the moment, I'm planning on sending the Hartzell back to Van's and start a debate over the 10% restocking fee. Am I over reacting? Is the difference in performance, weight, and quality worth the hassle? > > I plan on calling Van's in a bit after I cool off. Unfortunately, I also had a bad experience again with Fedex-Ground this morning. It's been on of those days. :x > > bob > > -------- > Bob Leffler > N410BL - FWF > RV-10 #40684 > http://mykitlog.com/rleffler > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328686#328686 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2011
Subject: Re: FWF/Prop Gov
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
I don't have an opinion on the MT vs. Hartzell, but I'd be really surprised if Van's charged you anything to take the governor back, given you couldn't have been expected to know about the change. -Rob On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 7:47 AM, rleffler wrote: > > I just picked up my FWF kit this morning. At the moment, I'm not a happy > camper. > > Van's did notify me that the exhaust system would be back ordered and I was > ok with that. When I got my kit this morning, I found that other items had > been back ordered, specifically one of the dynafocal kits. So I'm at a work > stoppage until the fourth dynafocal kit shows up. > > My other annoyance at the moment is that they substituted a Hartzell > Governor for the MT with out any notification. > > The feedback that I had received previously was that the Hartzell was a > couple pounds heavier and maintenance prone. I don't know if this > reputation is do to more familiarity with the Hartzell than the MT. I did > decide to stay with the MT as oppose to the PCU5000 to save $300. > > At the moment, I'm planning on sending the Hartzell back to Van's and start > a debate over the 10% restocking fee. Am I over reacting? Is the > difference in performance, weight, and quality worth the hassle? > > I plan on calling Van's in a bit after I cool off. Unfortunately, I also > had a bad experience again with Fedex-Ground this morning. It's been on of > those days. :x > > bob > > -------- > Bob Leffler > N410BL - FWF > RV-10 #40684 > http://mykitlog.com/rleffler > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328686#328686 > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FWF/Prop Gov
From: "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote: > There are a lot of things that you can do with the FWF kit before hanging the engine. It's worth a call to Van's to find out when the other parts will get in. On the Governor, I haven't heard anything about the Hartzell, but it's worth a call to get them to change it or to see if they have changed from the MT to the Hartzell across the board for the RV-10. > > I did talk with Dale at Van's. He mentioned that they are having sourcing issues with the Lord mounts and apologized for just shipping three. They are getting in twelve more tomorrow. Dale was responsive and shared probably more than he should. I now know their stocking levels for the next few months on some of the key fwf components. I was wanting to get working on the cowls, but without the engine and governor in place, that makes it difficult. Dale just left me a voice mail stating that the Hartzell governor is a new design that is only a year or so old. That may contribute to people making statements about the longevity of the older models. He said to give Gus a call for the details. I'll probably do that later today. It will probably be mid-February before I get the baffles and exhaust. I guess I just have to work on finishing up the electrical. bob -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - FWF RV-10 #40684 http://mykitlog.com/rleffler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328718#328718 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FWF/Prop Gov
From: "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
rv10rob(at)gmail.com wrote: > I don't have an opinion on the MT vs. Hartzell, but I'd be really surprised if Van's charged you anything to take the governor back, given you couldn't have been expected to know about the change. > > -Rob > > Correct, Dale offered to pay for return shipping and swap out the governor. As I just mentioned in the previous message to Jesse, it appears that this is a new Hartzell governor, not the old one which had a poor reputation. Time for a little more research. bob -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - FWF RV-10 #40684 http://mykitlog.com/rleffler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328720#328720 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: plane power alternator update
Date: Jan 27, 2011
To their credit plane power sent a new alternator to replace the original unit which in 2.7 years had accumulated 375 hours. I made a ground run test today and the alternator generated 32A on startup at 850 RPM; buss voltage was 14.2V and 14.3V. It is possible that something was wrong early in the process (2008) because I never felt the Odyssey batteries ever received a full charge (I generally cruise 2250 RPM). I mentally attributed that to the fact that they were located at the rear of the aircraft through several contactors and 10 feet of wire. Toward the latter stages I just used both 680s in parallel for starting, although on the initial starts, a single 680 spun the IO540 quite easily. In addition as the alternator in the last hundred hours or so, it would take an RPM of 1200+ to get the voltage above 13.5V. Now I get !4.2V or better at idle RPM while still supplying 32A to run the avionics (14A) and recharge the batteries. It looks as though the problem is fixed. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Doors redux
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
I would do a couple things differently before bonding the door halves... 1) If using flush door handles, double bond the inner handle edges with both flox and glass cloth. 2) Purchase handles, Sean- 90 degree cams, locks ... and pull straps. Then test fit everything. I didn't do my pull straps and am now scratching my head about where to put them and how the heck to get at it. 3) Don't add extra door reinforcement until everything get test fit. Regards, Jay Piddling around with final door fit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328734#328734 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: FWF/Prop Gov
Date: Jan 27, 2011
IMO you need to do the baffles after you do the cowl. You will need to trim the top of the baffle metal to the inside of the cowl and then do the baff le seal. You can determine whether you will use the spinner as a guide for your cowl trimming or make a plywood template. The template will take some time. I a m certain there are many things which can be done before you get the other parts from Vans. It sucks to keep changing gears and switching projects=2C seems like that i s part of the overall build process.... I suspect you wouldn't be on the baffle in mid Feb even if you had all the parts of the FWF. The cowl takes a lot of time to do correctly...IMO and ex perience! The exhaust can go in way towards the end of the build=2C has nothing to do with the cowl. JOhn G > Subject: RV10-List: Re: FWF/Prop Gov > From: rv(at)thelefflers.com > Date: Thu=2C 27 Jan 2011 10:29:49 -0800 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote: > > There are a lot of things that you can do with the FWF kit before hangi ng the engine. It's worth a call to Van's to find out when the other parts will get in. On the Governor=2C I haven't heard anything about the Hartzell =2C but it's worth a call to get them to change it or to see if they have c hanged from the MT to the Hartzell across the board for the RV-10. > > > > > > > I did talk with Dale at Van's. He mentioned that they are having sourcing issues with the Lord mounts and apologized for just shipping three. They a re getting in twelve more tomorrow. Dale was responsive and shared probably more than he should. I now know their stocking levels for the next few mon ths on some of the key fwf components. > > I was wanting to get working on the cowls=2C but without the engine and g overnor in place=2C that makes it difficult. > > Dale just left me a voice mail stating that the Hartzell governor is a ne w design that is only a year or so old. That may contribute to people makin g statements about the longevity of the older models. He said to give Gus a call for the details. I'll probably do that later today. > > It will probably be mid-February before I get the baffles and exhaust. I guess I just have to work on finishing up the electrical. > > bob > > -------- > Bob Leffler > N410BL - FWF > RV-10 #40684 > http://mykitlog.com/rleffler > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328718#328718 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2011
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: ACK E-04 ELT
January 26th 2011 Wow, I wondered when/if we would ever be able to say it....but we are fully approved! Today we received the official certificate. We are doing all of the final ordering this week, and we need to program the ELT's with our certification numbers we just received. The ELT's should be shipping by mid/late February. Thanks for your patience On 26.01.2011 21:34, johngoodman wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" > > I've been told to expect mine in March... for what it's worth. > > John > > -------- > #40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready. > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328590#328590 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2011
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Baggage Door Removal
Many thanks Robin, that has concreted my thoughts.=0A=0AI now have very lit tle aluminium work left and have installed the cabin and now =0AI'm on to t he doors.- I might install the landing gear and engine mount to lower =0A the fuselage for easier access.=0A=0AThere is now a three month lead time o n engine and instruments, bugger!=0A=0AMany thanks once again my friend, yo ur input is invaluable.=0A=0AKind regards, Pat=0A=0APS: +47C here on Sunday !=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Robin Marks <Robin (at)PaintTheWeb.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, 27 January, 20 11 12:11:04 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal=0A=0A=0ASimpl e solution to build as plans intend and still remove the door with no =0Aef fort. Very common in the RV world.=0A-=0APhoto attached,=0ARobin=0A-=0A From:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server @matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox=0ASent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 4 :12 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal=0A-=0AYes.- The piano hinge can be replaced with two C hinges allowing easy removal of =0Athe door and ease of maintenance.- It provide s a means to change the door from a =0Atwo dimensional shape to a three dim ensional compound curve if you wanted to get =0Acrazy.- The "C" style hin ge can also allow a greater range of hinged movement.=0A-=0AFor most, the words "Just follow the plans and build it comes to mind".=0A-=0AI thing your questions is more a one time pin removal with intent to reinstall =0At he pin at the end of your journey.=0A-=0AJohn Cox=0A-=0A=0A____________ ____________________=0A=0AFrom:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on beha lf of Patrick Pulis=0ASent: Wed 1/26/2011 2:23 PM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics .com=0ASubject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Removal=0AI'm trying to determine i f its worth varying from the plans and modifying the =0Abaggage door to ena ble removal with other than hinge pin extraction.=0A-=0AI would appreciat e any feedback to determine if-this is warranted, or if the =0Asimple rem oval of the hinge pin will suffice to enable removal of the door.=0A-=0AF or those industrious inventors,'tinkerers' and 'builders of better mouse tr aps' =0Aout there, who have modified their-baggage door installation to a llow removal (a =0Ala nut plates or the like), with other than removal of t he hinge pin, I would =0Aappreciate any feedback or photographs of how you did it please.=0A-=0AKind regards from a warm down-under.=0A-=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A- =0A-=0A-=0A===== =======0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A=0A======== ====0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.c om=0A============0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A====== ======0A-=0A-=0A-============== ==========0Anics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matr onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=============== ==http://forums.matronics.com=0A ============ =====-------------------- ------ -Matt Dralle, List Admin.=0A-= Archive Search & Down load, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NAV/COM/GS Antenna
From: "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
Thanks Guys, I had thought of trimming some off the side or enlarging the fairing. I think I may go with enlarging the fairing a little. The antenna is the CI-215 not a CI-121 as I originally posted. Thanks to Kelly McMullen for pointing out that. The photos from everyone all helped as well. cheers John MacCallum Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328749#328749 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ACK E-04 ELT
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
Phewww, what a relief! I already had the hole cut in the panel for the ACK remote. Really didn't want to go with another unit. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328771#328771 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ACK E-04 ELT
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2011
Does anyone know if this gives full approval in Canada as well? Thanks Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328773#328773 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2011
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: ACK E-04 ELT
Ron, they had the Canadian approval a long time, the one missing was the COSPAS approval (service provider) see here for the Canadian one <http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/Canada%20TCCA%20approval%20letter.pdf> Werner On 28.01.2011 03:09, Ron B. wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ron B." > > Does anyone know if this gives full approval in Canada as well? > Thanks Ron > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328773#328773 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ACK E-04 ELT
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Date: Jan 28, 2011
Not saying anyone is incorrect, just got a reply from ACS and they claim it's not approved in Canada yet. They expect May. I'll contact ACK directly and post back here. Thanks Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328850#328850 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2011
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: ACK E-04 ELT
Hello Ron, indeed, it is not listed here: <http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/civilaviation/certification/elt-65.htm> but has Transport Canada approval <http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/Canada%20TCCA%20approval%20letter.pdf> and is certified by Industry Canada <http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/Industry%20Canada%20CofC.pdf> wonder what is missing then, maybe the later was never send to TCCA? Werner On 28.01.2011 22:31, Ron B. wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ron B." > > Not saying anyone is incorrect, just got a reply from ACS and they claim it's not approved in Canada yet. They expect May. I'll contact ACK directly and post back here. > Thanks Ron > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328850#328850 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2011
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: What it does look like if you collect your QB kit!
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tow stud helicoil kit for rent?
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 28, 2011
Hey Guys, A while back it was mentioned that the steel 3/8 24 tow stud bolts that fit into the aluminum nose wheel forks, sometimes strip out and are much better with stainless helicoil inserts. I made mental note to be careful so as to never need to do this. Well, with abuse to the nose pants, difficulty getting the bolt started, force on tow bar -- whatever, one of the bolts stripped out on Wes's plane. Just when I thought I was entitled to a bit of smugness, another lesson in humility! A trip to several auto places revealed that in my area, only NAPA carried the 3/8 24 kit ... for $50. So with no immediate options, we got it, and it worked perfectly, and just took a few minutes with the pants off (the NOSEWHEEL pants, wiseguys). I really would recommend to just go ahead and install these at your convenience so that you don't end up in a bind somewhere down the line with no way to tow. My thought as coordinator of the "traveling seatbelt countersink", was to see if there is any interest in sending this kit around as needed. For a fee of say $5 (for the two inserts) plus shipping, it sure would be cheaper than everyone buying this kit that will (hopefully) sit unused in the shop from now on. Let me know if there's any interest. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328870#328870 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: What it does look like if you collect your QB kit!
Date: Jan 28, 2011
Congradulations Werner! The glass parts are not German sailplane quality=2C but hopefully you will make them look the same. Have Fun! Date: Sat=2C 29 Jan 2011 00:20:22 +0100 From: glastar(at)gmx.net Subject: RV10-List: What it does look like if you collect your QB kit! Message body I finally got today the go=2C to get my QB kit=2C including Finishing and FW FWD kit out of customs here in Switzerland=2C took a few hours to get all paperwork sorted out and had to pay tax and shipping cost=2C then loaded my "airplane trailer"=2C it just did fit (about 4 inch of space were left). All is now stored in the garage (which is not yet emptied out) and I started to open the smallest crate first. It had the MT Governor in (shipped begin of December). I have a rusty nose leg (seems powder coating was not very well done) the baffling kit seems to have a lot of parts missing=2C but need to go through it with the instructions and the pink fibreglass parts are of lesser quality then what I'm used to from my Glastar. It's like Xmas and Birthday together unpacking the boxes. Werner On 28.01.2011 22:31=2C Ron B. wrote: Not saying anyone is incorrect=2C just got a reply from ACS and they claim it's not approved in Canada yet. They expect May. I'll contact ACK directly and post back here. 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January 18, 2011 - Present

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-hq