RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ia
January 30, 2011 - February 24, 2011
of spares for down the road. I paid $9 or so for mine, and I cracked
one on install. So I used a spare right away. Once the bearings
start to go....years down the road...it will be nice to just have
a couple on hand to swap in so that all the holes line up.
Not as critical for the square fans because they're pretty standard,
but for a blower like this, you may want to not have to search for
a match.
Tim
(See David's post below)
On 1/30/2011 3:33 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>
I just finished this area up last week. I used two of these
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=16-1358&catname=electric for
the defrosters and one for avionics cooling. I figure there is no need
to add heat to the defrosters as they will scavenge enough from the
avionics and the tunnel. 23 cfm each and they blow pretty good and are
quiet,,,not that that will matter when the engine is running and
headsets are on.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
N849RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Duckwork HID lights |
Again with my Wig/Wag HID=92s I get noticed 7 miles out on approach in the
day
time. Dual flashing HID=92s may be one of the best safety vs. cost items on
your build. Seeing is avoiding.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Lark
*Sent:* Sunday, January 30, 2011 7:03 PM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Duckwork HID lights
Sam, I've only bought and are about to install one Duckworks light, for the
left wing. Having said that I don't like night flying and avoid it when
possible, so I don't expect to use it a lot. Also you can always install
another after the aircraft is flying if you plan accordingly. I do know on
e
will be much brighter than the 2 lights in my Cessna Cardinal.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On *Sun, 1/30/11, ospreysammy * wrote:
From: ospreysammy <helosammy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Duckwork HID lights
Received: Sunday, January 30, 2011, 12:58 PM
http://ca.mc1207.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=helosa
mmy(at)gmail.com>
>
I am currently at the point of finishing up the outboard leading edges and
I
plan on using the Duckworks HID landing light system. This has led me to tw
o
questions; first since they are so bright, is one in each wing needed or
would one in the left only work? I am thinking only using one would reduce
weight, complexity, electrical load but would add asymmetry. Second questio
n
is, do I need to wait to rivet the outboard rib until the light kit is done
?
I looked through Tim's outstanding writeup of his installation (thank you
Tim) and it seems it may be easier to do the light kit with that outboard
rib removable. Any insight from experience would be appreciated. Thanks in
advance.
--------
Sam Clark
Builder # 40972
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=328966#328966
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
great content also available via the Web nbsp; -Matt
matronics.com/contribution" target=_blank>
http://www.matronics.com/contri==============
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AHRS Mount angle |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The non-Sport versions of GRT have a separate AHRS and magnetometer to consider.
The AHRS must be very close in roll and yaw alignment. While you want it to
be close in pitch as well, however there is a pitch offset adjustment in 1 degree
increments. If you need to make minor adjustments after your mount is fabricated,
shims can be used. Van's sells an AHRS mount that goes behind the
baggage bulkhead that guarantees alignment and has attach holes prepunched for
several different AHRS units.
The magnetometer also needs to be in alignment, especially with the yaw axis.
Typical locations for that are either high in the tailcone or outboard in a wingtip.
There's an alignment procedure for the magnetometer that can take out
some of the effects from nearby ferrous materials but keep in mind that battery
contactors, autopilot servos and trim servos are all little electromagnets that
will potentially cause problems. When I installed my magnetometer I found
that the level of the longerons was unacceptable because of the battery contactor.
I wound up putting it on a small shelf attached to the top J-channels.
The center J-channel gives a nice longitudinal reference for alignment.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329076#329076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AHRS Mount angle |
Since my install was in 2005 I established the plate on two angles across
the longeron and then ran a fish line from the aft center of the tail cone
to the front center of the tail cone. See before and after pictures
----- Original Message -----
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 8:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AHRS Mount angle
>
> The non-Sport versions of GRT have a separate AHRS and magnetometer to
> consider. The AHRS must be very close in roll and yaw alignment. While
> you want it to be close in pitch as well, however there is a pitch offset
> adjustment in 1 degree increments. If you need to make minor adjustments
> after your mount is fabricated, shims can be used. Van's sells an AHRS
> mount that goes behind the baggage bulkhead that guarantees alignment and
> has attach holes prepunched for several different AHRS units.
>
> The magnetometer also needs to be in alignment, especially with the yaw
> axis. Typical locations for that are either high in the tailcone or
> outboard in a wingtip. There's an alignment procedure for the
> magnetometer that can take out some of the effects from nearby ferrous
> materials but keep in mind that battery contactors, autopilot servos and
> trim servos are all little electromagnets that will potentially cause
> problems. When I installed my magnetometer I found that the level of the
> longerons was unacceptable because of the battery contactor. I wound up
> putting it on a small shelf attached to the top J-channels. The center
> J-channel gives a nice longitudinal reference for alignment.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329076#329076
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | AHRS and magnatometer |
one more picture.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Tank attach zees |
On page 18-4 step 1 we are instructed to rivet the nutplates to the fuel
tank attach zees (T-1012's). Do we need to final drill the bolt holes
to a certain size or are they the correct size already?
My holes have paint in them from priming so at the least, I need to run
a bit through them to get the paint out. Can someone with unprimed
Zee's tell me what size the hole is?
Sorry if this should be common knowledge but I wanted to make sure.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | AFS fuel flow system display changes |
First, I'll preface by saying that I really like the equipment that these folks
have for our planes and their customer service is top-notch - and I am an outsider
not related to the company other than as a customer. Not bashing anyone
here - just trying to get an understanding of who this change impacts and how
it impacts them. My configuration started as a 3400EM - I have since upgraded
to 3400sSP configuration (new processor and screen in addition to six-pack display)
to have a set of backup instruments. The upgrade also included a Beta
software release to fix a couple of last minute bugs in my system.
Here's the scoop:
I have 19 gallons per side for main tanks and 9 gallons per side for tip tanks
for a total capacity of 56 gallons, with them all filled, the system reports 56
gallons available.
Previously, the "Fuel Used" display only showed that fuel that has flowed through
the flow-meter. If I only fill the mains, the system shows 38 gallons available
and zero used. As I ran the engine for my flight, the "Fuel Used" display
would increase from Zero by showing only fuel flowed through the flow meter.
Now, the "Fuel Used" display shows the fuel that has flowed through the flow-meter
plus the unfilled tanks.
If I only fill the mains, the system shows 38 gallons available and 18 gallons
used. As I ran the engine for my flight, the "Fuel Used" display would increase
from 18 while adding the fuel that has subsequently flowed through the flow-meter.
Somewhere during the flight, if I look at the "Fuel Used" display, I note that
what is reported is getting close to what I just put in.....18 gallons early.
Good safety margin - but not what I was expecting.
I have queried the folks at AFS about this - they respond that the change was made
in the interest of safety and to reduce confusion. Yes, I could simply not
look at the "Fuel Used" display and only look at the "Fuel Available" display
and cross check that with my fuel guages and time calculations for flight endurance
planning purposes. I also asked for an optional flowed-only mode or to
allow the user the choice of calculation methods (they still have the old code
and it simply would be a system setting).
I know that I am not the only one having trouble with this change - AFS indicated
that they have received multiple indications of concern.
Anyone else out there think this is an "odd change"? How are you (planning to)
accomodating this? I am planning to try ignoring the "Fuel Used" display and
see how that works....with a plan B of having multiple configurations (with and
without tip-tanks) that I can upluad when Iplan to fuel the tiptanks. I don't
expect them to change it back - but they may provide options if enough folks
ask for it. Or, am I being overly picky about something that shouldn't matter
- in the big picture?
Your opinions please,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
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b25pY3MuY29tL05hdmlnYXRvcj9SVjEwLUxpc3QNCl8tPQ0KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAg
ICAgIC0gTUFUUk9OSUNTIFdFQiBGT1JVTVMgLQ0KXy09IFNhbWUgZ3JlYXQgY29udGVudCBhbHNv
IGF2YWlsYWJsZSB2aWEgdGhlIFdlYiBGb3J1bXMhDQpfLT0NCl8tPSAgIC0tPiBodHRwOi8vZm9y
dW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20NCl8tPQ0KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAtIExpc3QgQ29u
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c3QgQWRtaW4uDQpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlv
bg0KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT0NCg0KIAkJIAkgICAJCSAg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank attach zees |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
If I had a memory I'd be dangerous. While building I have charts to check sizing.
I do believe a K-1000-3 is for an AN 3 bolt. An an 3 bolt requires a #12 bit
, going by memory. The Avery tool catalog had this information listed in it
on page 57 a few years back. I think it is also in the red book from Van's.
I can find out for sure if no one helps out, I'll have to go to the hangar.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329113#329113
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: defroster/defog |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: defroster/defog Pictures |
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 5:46:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: defroster/defog
Here a a few pics of my defroster and avionics cooling fans. Like I stated before,
these things put out plenty of air. I also wanted my stack located in the
center of the panel, hence the modifications to the center rib and inner panel.
I made up some dimensional boxes out of cardboard to represent the avionics
with the harness connections included and taped them together to be sure I had
adequate clearance.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Duckwork HID lights |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I have 2, although not wig-wags. I installed them after completing the leading
edges with no problems. As long as they are off of the airplane I had no issues
at all with access.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329146#329146
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank attach zees |
Bill, as is said, timing is everything.- I just happened to prime my tank
Zee's today.-
-
So there is a little epoxy primer in the holes, however it is not real hard
yet.- Having said that, I was able to finger twirl a #13 drill bit but n
ot a #12, as it seemed to catch some aluminum.
-
So since a #13 is .185", I expect the holes are .002 or .003" shy of a #12
hole.- I'd drill them if it were me.
-
Hope this helps.
-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On Mon, 1/31/11, Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
From: Billy & Tami Britton <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tank attach zees
Received: Monday, January 31, 2011, 7:37 PM
On page 18-4 step 1 we are instructed to rivet the nutplates to the fuel ta
nk attach zees (T-1012's).- Do we need to final drill the bolt holes to a
certain size or are they the correct size already?
My holes have paint in them from priming so at the least, I need to run a b
it through them to get the paint out.- Can someone with unprimed Zee's te
ll me what size the hole is?-
-
Sorry if this should be common knowledge but I wanted to make sure.
-
Thanks in advance,
Bill
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckwork HID lights |
Sam, as Robin states, you can't beat the HID's for recognition distance/bri
ghtness.
-
I'm a little concerned about wig-waging the HID's so I am going to use the
wing tip halogen lights as wig/wags.- If they don't perform as I hope, I
can always change my lighting configuration.
-
I expect this aircraft will evolve as I fly it and I will need something to
mess around with when I'm not flying anyway.- As everyone knows, that's
the beauty of an experimental......
-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
--- On Tue, 2/1/11, Eric_Kallio wrote:
From: Eric_Kallio <scout019(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Duckwork HID lights
Received: Tuesday, February 1, 2011, 2:39 AM
I have 2, although not wig-wags. I installed them after completing the lead
ing edges with no problems. As long as they are off of the airplane I had n
o issues at all with access.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329146#329146
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Duckwork HID lights |
| From: | "ospreysammy" <helosammy(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks all for the insight and advice. I went ahead and ordered two, I can't argue
with the safety of being seen. I have crossed paths with quite a few light
civil aircraft and some were closer than I would like before they were seen.
Thanks again.
--------
Sam Clark
Builder # 40972
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329252#329252
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckwork HID lights |
While we're talking about Duckworks lights, I know Tim suggests using the
35W D1S bulbs. Vans only has the 50w HID's on their website catalog. Are
they the D1S style also or do we need to order directly from Duckworks?
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "ospreysammy" <helosammy(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2011 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Duckwork HID lights
>
> Thanks all for the insight and advice. I went ahead and ordered two, I
> can't argue with the safety of being seen. I have crossed paths with quite
> a few light civil aircraft and some were closer than I would like before
> they were seen. Thanks again.
>
> --------
> Sam Clark
> Builder # 40972
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329252#329252
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AHRS Mount angle |
Thanks for the replies, looks like there is somewhat of a consensus to align
with the same plane as the door sill so I will shim under the twin ahrs box
as required. My mount is already a done deal I just wanted to make sure I
should just go ahead and shim it level to the sill.
-Chris
#40072
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: AHRS Mount angle
Since my install was in 2005 I established the plate on two angles across
the longeron and then ran a fish line from the aft center of the tail cone
to the front center of the tail cone. See before and after pictures
----- Original Message -----
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 8:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AHRS Mount angle
> -->
>
> The non-Sport versions of GRT have a separate AHRS and magnetometer to
> consider. The AHRS must be very close in roll and yaw alignment.
> While you want it to be close in pitch as well, however there is a
> pitch offset adjustment in 1 degree increments. If you need to make
> minor adjustments after your mount is fabricated, shims can be used.
> Van's sells an AHRS mount that goes behind the baggage bulkhead that
> guarantees alignment and has attach holes prepunched for several different
AHRS units.
>
> The magnetometer also needs to be in alignment, especially with the
> yaw axis. Typical locations for that are either high in the tailcone
> or outboard in a wingtip. There's an alignment procedure for the
> magnetometer that can take out some of the effects from nearby ferrous
> materials but keep in mind that battery contactors, autopilot servos
> and trim servos are all little electromagnets that will potentially
> cause problems. When I installed my magnetometer I found that the
> level of the longerons was unacceptable because of the battery
> contactor. I wound up putting it on a small shelf attached to the top
> J-channels. The center J-channel gives a nice longitudinal reference for
alignment.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329076#329076
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pirep on Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
For those that used the Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive in lieu of Weld-On or other
products, would you still recommend it? If so, how many 50ml paks are required
for the windscreen and all the windows?
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329328#329328
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Front Seat Adjustment handles |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Anyone installed their seat adjustment T handles inboard and the seat back adjustment
handles outboard which is opposite of Van's recommended locations? Just
curious if doing so would cause any problems or is it a wash (ie doesn't hurt
but really doesn't help either) so just stick to the plans?
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329333#329333
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front Seat Adjustment handles |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
What's most important--bring the front/back seat adjustment forward on an extension--more
like on autos. Very big difference and ease with moving seat. Someone
had plans and actually sold these. Don't remember who. VERY nice--you'll
wish you had a different arrangement than Vans designed. A few bruises on hand
and scratched watch convinced me. larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329336#329336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Pirep on Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive |
I believe I was the first one to use this adhesive and I would use it again.
I have 185hrs on my 10 now and everything is great. I did some test prior to
using and I found the bond to be better than weld-on. The great thing about
This is you can clean it up off the windows with PPG DT-870 reducer. This
will not harm the acrylic or craze as the Weld-on can. This is a urethane
Adhesive and is not as hard as weld-on so it will not crack as easy. We use
this Lord adhesives for many other applications here as well with great
results. I would get the 215ML if you can and get 4 to 5. The 50 ML will not
Go far. You need about a 3/8" bead minimum al the way around the window
frame. Go to album below there are some pictures
http://combsfamily.phanfare.com/3161550_4534177#imageID=74040224
<http://combsfamily.phanfare.com/3161550_4534177%23imageID=74040224>
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2011 3:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pirep on Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive
For those that used the Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive in lieu of Weld-On or
other products, would you still recommend it? If so, how many 50ml paks are
required for the windscreen and all the windows?
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329328#329328
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pirep on Lord 7545A/E urethane adhesive |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Thanks Geoff!
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329347#329347
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Door Handle covers |
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
Aerosport Products has completed and will be shipping the new Door handle covers
designed for the stock Van's door handles. These handles and cover plates can
be installed in minutes and dress up the not so nice looking interior door handle.
The cover plate covers the gear box area.
They will be available in 2 colors a Light tan and a Med Grey. These handles are made from ABS plastic and can be painted to match your interior colors. They will be available online at www.aerosportproducts.com On 2-7-11
Cost will be $95.00 per set. And $65.00 for just the door handle covers.
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329349#329349
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doorhandleparts_493.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doorhandle_175.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front Seat Adjustment handles |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Steve Dinieri still sells the forward seat adjustment handles on http://iflyrv10.com.
I think Greg Hale invented those, and the plans or on his site at http://www.nwacaptain.com/seat_lever.html
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329372#329372
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Door Handle covers |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
aerosport1 wrote:
> They will be available online at www.aerosportproducts.com On 2-7-11
Geoff underestimated his webmaster.... :D
The RV-10 Door Handle Kits can be ordered online at: http://aerosportproducts.com/handles.htm
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - FWF
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329379#329379
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel quantity calibration problem |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I am trying to calibrate the fuel quantity levels on the GRT EIS 6000. I have the
standard Vans floats in the tank. Before O call GRT in the morning I wanted
to see if anyone else has had this issue...
During calibration, following the sheet from GRT, I got AuxSF/Auxoff setting of
52/151 for the left tank and 79/225 for the right. These numbers seem a little
higher than others have posted, but there may be more resistance in my circuit.
During calibration of the tanks I had noticeable movement in the values on
the EIS and on the EFIS. However, with the tanks full and the settings entered
into the calibration menu, my tanks both read 2 gallons on the EIS. I have rechecked
my numbers as well as my settings. I am set to integers and have actually
had to set the sensors to reverse sensing because they were counting down
when adding fuel.
Any thoughts, or similar experiences out there?
Eric Kallio
3 days until DAR...if I can get my fuel level calibrated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329394#329394
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | countersinking baffle holes |
On page 18-4 step 6 we countersink the tank skins to attach the tank
baffles to. It tells us to leave every 10th hole uncountersunk for
alignment issues (these holes are countersunk and riveted later, after
proseal has cured). I guess I just don't understand why it's asking us
to do this. Everything is final drilled and should line up perfectly.
Is it just because of the added mess of the proseal??? Is this
necessary to do or has anyone just countersunk all of them at once.
Seems to me that countersinking and riveting after the proseal has cured
is a sure way to try to make the tank leak.
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: countersinking baffle holes |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
A dimple or machine countersunk hole is enlarged to the point that your baffle
will not seat properly. The seal is made with a nice layer/bead that pushes up
in front of baffle bend line as you install it. I am sure some sealing takes
place around the rivets too, but your main seal needs to be that inside corner.
I just followed the plans, using almost 1 qt per tank. Just before baffles are
installed I thinned sealant with toluene/toluol max 15% by wt then went over
all joints and rivet shop heads. Then tested tanks to 1 psi with electronic
manometer.(Water can be used too).
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329437#329437
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel quantity calibration problem |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Check to ensure you have a good ground with star lockwasher under terminal at one
of the six sender attachment screws. I'll be installing EIS this summer so
keep us posted.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329438#329438
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel quantity calibration problem |
Your right tank readings are a bit higher than mine but if they work they w
ork. =0AI did my EIS twice before I got it and even after I did the math I
had to adjust =0Athe right tank numbers to get it to read-the correct amo
unt.-the numbers quit =0Aclimbing at 24 and25 gals so I used that as my f
ull reading. I have the Cheltons =0Aand have yet to get them working right.
One tank will read full and the other =0Aempty after calibration. Double c
heck your math and see if you missed =0Asomething.-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______
_________________________=0AFrom: Eric_Kallio <scout019(at)msn.com>=0ATo: rv10
-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, February 2, 2011 6:25:55 PM=0ASubject: RV1
0-List: Fuel quantity calibration problem=0A=0A--> RV10-List message posted
by: "Eric_Kallio" =0A=0AI am trying to calibrate the fue
l quantity levels on the GRT EIS 6000. I have =0Athe standard Vans floats i
n the tank. Before O call GRT in the morning I wanted =0Ato see if anyone e
lse has had this issue...=0A=0ADuring calibration, following the sheet from
GRT, I got AuxSF/Auxoff setting of =0A52/151 for the left tank and 79/225
for the right. These numbers seem a little =0Ahigher than others have poste
d, but there may be more resistance in my circuit. =0ADuring calibration of
the tanks I had noticeable movement in the values on the =0AEIS and on the
EFIS. However, with the tanks full and the settings entered into =0Athe ca
libration menu, my tanks both read 2 gallons on the EIS. I have rechecked
=0Amy numbers as well as my settings. I am set to integers and have actuall
y had to =0Aset the sensors to reverse sensing because they were counting d
own when adding =0Afuel. =0A=0A=0AAny thoughts, or similar experiences out
there?=0A=0AEric Kallio=0A3 days until DAR...if I can get my fuel level cal
ibrated.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matr
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, L
=========0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
After 238 hours I found that I have about a 1/2" of vertical slop in my nose gear.
How difficult is it to add the spacers? Any good ideas on how to do this?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear slop |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I just added another spacer to N256H. I had added one or two in the past and just
added another. It is very easy, but you will need some help. You need to
get the nose in the air so you can remove the cap that the spacer goes under
so you don't have to remove the heater box controls. Then just add the spacer(s)
as needed and compress the rubber donuts enough to get the bolt back in place
and then put the bolt in and you're done. Very easy to do with a second set
of hands. I compressed the donuts by jacking up slightly on the tail, but
you can also do so by either adding weight to the nose or possibly a rachet strap
between a hard point on the engine and the nose gear leg.
Just FYI for those out there who are getting up in hours. I have now also tightened
up the swivel on the nose fork at least 3 times on N256H. I am hoping the
shimmy goes down now that I've added another spacer and tightened the swivel,
but I'm sure it will. Basically, both of these items are not just one-time
adjustments for once the parts take on a "permanent set", so keep your eyes on
them and adjust as necessary.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 3, 2011, at 10:55 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
>
> After 238 hours I found that I have about a 1/2" of vertical slop in my nose
gear. How difficult is it to add the spacers? Any good ideas on how to do this?
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear slop |
On 2/3/2011 11:24 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jesse Saint
>
>
snip
> Just FYI for those out there who are getting up in hours. I have now also tightened
up the swivel on the nose fork at least 3 times on N256H. I am hoping
the shimmy goes down now that I've added another spacer and tightened the swivel,
but I'm sure it will. Basically, both of these items are not just one-time
adjustments for once the parts take on a "permanent set", so keep your eyes
on them and adjust as necessary.
You can also add belleville washers and cup two at a time to increase
the drag.
Linn
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Feb 3, 2011, at 10:55 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon Olesen
>>
>>
>> After 238 hours I found that I have about a 1/2" of vertical slop in my nose
gear. How difficult is it to add the spacers? Any good ideas on how to do this?
>>
>> Sheldon Olesen
>> N475PV
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear slop |
I think I've probably tightened the nosewheel swivel nut 3 times
or so...and the last time I was in the low to mid 30's lb-ft of
torque. Recently I had the nosewheel off the ground and found
that it was still snug. You're very right that it'll take a
few times to get this snugged up...but at least there is
light at the end of the tunnel that it'll turn into
an annual thing to check. The first 150 hours or so I think
you'll want to check it at least 3 times in that period though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 2/3/2011 10:24 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jesse
> Saint
>
> I just added another spacer to N256H. I had added one or two in the
> past and just added another. It is very easy, but you will need some
> help. You need to get the nose in the air so you can remove the cap
> that the spacer goes under so you don't have to remove the heater box
> controls. Then just add the spacer(s) as needed and compress the
> rubber donuts enough to get the bolt back in place and then put the
> bolt in and you're done. Very easy to do with a second set of hands.
> I compressed the donuts by jacking up slightly on the tail, but you
> can also do so by either adding weight to the nose or possibly a
> rachet strap between a hard point on the engine and the nose gear
> leg.
>
> Just FYI for those out there who are getting up in hours. I have now
> also tightened up the swivel on the nose fork at least 3 times on
> N256H. I am hoping the shimmy goes down now that I've added another
> spacer and tightened the swivel, but I'm sure it will. Basically,
> both of these items are not just one-time adjustments for once the
> parts take on a "permanent set", so keep your eyes on them and adjust
> as necessary.
>
> Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com C:
> 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Feb 3, 2011, at 10:55 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon
>> Olesen
>>
>>
>> After 238 hours I found that I have about a 1/2" of vertical slop
>> in my nose gear. How difficult is it to add the spacers? Any good
>> ideas on how to do this?
>>
>> Sheldon Olesen N475PV
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivet Squeezer for sale |
| From: | "Jdaniel343" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
I have a Chicago Pnuematic Rivet Sqeezer for sale.
I has a 1 yoke that is included.
See photo http://s767.photobucket.com/albums/xx317/Jdaniel343/?action=view¤t=IMG_6408.jpg
Asking $300 obo.
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329469#329469
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: countersinking baffle holes |
Thanks Wayne. That answered my question.
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 7:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: countersinking baffle holes
>
> A dimple or machine countersunk hole is enlarged to the point that your
> baffle will not seat properly. The seal is made with a nice layer/bead
> that pushes up in front of baffle bend line as you install it. I am sure
> some sealing takes place around the rivets too, but your main seal needs
> to be that inside corner. I just followed the plans, using almost 1 qt per
> tank. Just before baffles are installed I thinned sealant with
> toluene/toluol max 15% by wt then went over all joints and rivet shop
> heads. Then tested tanks to 1 psi with electronic manometer.(Water can be
> used too).
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329437#329437
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | electronic ignition |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Can anyone give me some advice on a good electronic ignition system for my RV10?
I will be going to Sun n Fun this year and want to check into this....Thanks
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329487#329487
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Lets see, some of the usual suspects include:
Light Speed Engineerings Plasma III: http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/
Unison LASAR: http://www.unisonindustries.com/ourproducts/lasarelectronicignition.html
EFii: http://www.flyefii.com/
G3i: http://www.g3ignition.com/
EMAG (suppose to be real close to releasing a P-Mag for the 6-cyl Lycs): www.emagair.com
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329489#329489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
The Lightspeed Plasma that Van's sells seems to be the most common. Emag
has been promising a 6 cyl version for a long time. G3 modification to
standard mags seems to be the other most viable alternative. Probably
one or two others, but not that many options.
On 2/3/2011 1:21 PM, greghale wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "greghale"
>
> Can anyone give me some advice on a good electronic ignition system for my RV10?
I will be going to Sun n Fun this year and want to check into this....Thanks
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329487#329487
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | electronic ignition |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
I have the light speed and only have 38 hrs on it, but so far so good.=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: greghale <ghale5224@ao
l.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, February 3, 2011 1:21:42
PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: electronic ignition=0A=0A--> RV10-List message pos
ted by: "greghale" =0A=0ACan anyone give me some advice
on a good electronic ignition system for my =0ARV10?- I will be going to
Sun n Fun this year and want to check into =0Athis....Thanks=0A=0A--------
=0AGreg Hale rv10 -- N210KH=0Awww.nwacaptain.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this to
pic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329487#
======================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | electronic ignition |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | electronic ignition |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
The Pmag would be my choice. I am in no hurry since my Lightspeed/mag
setup is working great, but I will probably change to dual Pmags at
some point.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Feb 3, 2011, at 3:21 PM, greghale wrote:
>
> Can anyone give me some advice on a good electronic ignition system
> for my RV10? I will be going to Sun n Fun this year and want to
> check into this....Thanks
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329487#329487
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
I have 1 Electroair and 1 mag and I am very happy with the setup. I
can run LOP smoothly and it starts good. The Electroair is the old
Jeff Rose setup they compare in the EAA CAFE report. I used the
Electroair because Lightspeed did not have a mounting bracket for the
crank pickup to fit my engine. The guys at Electroair are good to
work with and they are going for a certified model also. Blue Skys Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)EARTHLINK.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear slop |
I had the experience as Jesse, 300 hours added an addition washer to the top
of the nose gear. Not a difficult task.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I did a search on the FAA aircraft registry for "model = RV-10" and looked
at the number of seats. Most were listed as 4, four were listed as 5 (which
I know has been discussed here), but I was surprised to see that there were
nine listed with 2 seats. What's the reason for doing this? Lower
liability premiums? I suppose it could also just be bad data--I did notice
one has 10 seats and three are "light sport".
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: number of seats |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
Mine was listed as 2 seats with the faa,but 4 with avemco,just bad data tha
t I have not yet corrected-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Fri, Feb 4, 2011 8:09 am
Subject: RV10-List: number of seats
I did a search on the FAA aircraft registry for "model = RV-10" and looke
d at the number of seats. Most were listed as 4, four were listed as 5 (wh
ich I know has been discussed here), but I was surprised to see that there
were nine listed with 2 seats. What's the reason for doing this? Lower li
ability premiums? I suppose it could also just be bad data--I did notice o
ne has 10 seats and three are "light sport".
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel quantity calibration problem |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I have tried a couple times. Same numbers and no indications. Can anyone out there
smart on this system give me a call. There must be something obvious I have
overlooked. 225-802-4827. GRT appears to be snowed in today.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329598#329598
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone using the Crow seatbelts in their -10? When I ordered mine, I didn't
specify and dimensions--I just said I needed a complete set for the RV-10,
since I understand they've done a few. Having now installed mine, the
shoulder straps seem to be too short between the latch and the "Y". See the
attached pictures. The "Y" is right on top of the headrest. I could move
that back a few inches, but then the shoulder pads would be in the wrong
place. Something doesn't seem right here--any ideas?
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel quantity calibration problem |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Finally got in touch with GRT. After a bit with Carlos, it looks like the settings
are working now.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329656#329656
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crow Harnesses |
Rob, I agree that the pads could be a little more forward. In the first
picture it looks like you're leaning forward a little to put tension on
the harness. Either that or you have a serious shoulder/back problem!!!
If it was me, I'd move the 'Y' forward a little and then take the slack
out by pulling on the adjustment for the shoulder belts. The shoulder
harness should be adjusted so that in your 'cruise' seat position with
the harness just a little slack from snug (yeah, go ahead and measure
that!) you can reach all the stuff on the panel that you need to .....
without having to twist the upper torso very much. The only problem
moving the 'Y' forward is that it causes the shoulder belts to rub the
side of the neck. This is a problem I have in my Pitts, and the
solution was the shoulder pads for car shoulder belts. Nice and soft on
the neck now. But you'd hate to just cover up the pads you paid so
dearly for.
Linn
On 2/4/2011 2:25 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Anyone using the Crow seatbelts in their -10? When I ordered mine, I
> didn't specify and dimensions--I just said I needed a complete set for
> the RV-10, since I understand they've done a few. Having now
> installed mine, the shoulder straps seem to be too short between the
> latch and the "Y". See the attached pictures. The "Y" is right on
> top of the headrest. I could move that back a few inches, but then
> the shoulder pads would be in the wrong place. Something doesn't seem
> right here--any ideas?
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Experience with paint - off RV10 topic |
| From: | "rngurley" <rngurley(at)att.net> |
I am getting ready to paint my current aircraft. Does anyone have experience with
PPG or Dupont (Imron) paint? Unfortunately, my RV10 in not ready to paint
- and probably will not be for some time. Thank you in advance for any comments.
Dick Gurley
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329675#329675
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic |
I know this is far more info than you asked for ...... but hopefully
others might benefit.
Two things make a great paint job .... preparation and ..... practice.
Practice on your current airplane and you'll be way ahead when you get
to the -10.
The best job would be a strip and paint ..... sand and paint leaves a
lot of extra weight on the airframe.
Work on filling dings and deep scratches ..... the smallest imperfection
shows up in the paint.
Choose your base color ..... I like white ..... even if you're going to
paint over almost all of it. It'll give even color presentation everywhere.
Use 3M Fineline masking tape .... green for straight lines, blue for
curves. Use paint masking paper. Newspaper doesn't hack it. The paint
job is not the place to save money.
Get a good paint gun. Yup, I've used HF paint guns, but you get what
you pay for, and a quality tool will not let you down.
Mix the paint, reducer and catalyst. I like to reduce the paint a
little more than recommended. Not a lot. A little. Use the proper
reducer for the temperature you'll spray in. Wait 30 minutes. They
call this 'induction time'. I don't know why it matters whether the
induction time occurs in the spray gun pot or on the airplane .... but
it does.
Use a tack cloth everywhere!!!! Change the cloth often. They're cheap
and really help a nice paint job.
Spray a tack coat .... really, really, light. Wait about 30 minutes.
Spray a light cross coat. Wait 30 minutes.
Spray a second cross coat.
Look carefully at your paint job for Throw away that paint left in
the spray gun. Resist the urge to spray it on the plane. All it adds
is weight .... and sags. Clean up the equipment and go home.
Did you notice the 'Wait 30 minutes'???? I found that if you scrimp on
the 30 minutes, the possibility of runs and sags goes way up. A
professional painter may not do this, but I'm not a pro painter and
don't play one on TV. No matter how many times I stayed at a Holiday
Inn ..... I still needed that time.
Best of luck .... and post the pictures when you get done.
Linn
On 2/4/2011 8:24 PM, rngurley wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rngurley"
>
> I am getting ready to paint my current aircraft. Does anyone have experience
with PPG or Dupont (Imron) paint? Unfortunately, my RV10 in not ready to paint
- and probably will not be for some time. Thank you in advance for any comments.
>
> Dick Gurley
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329675#329675
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
And, don't forget, Imron is pretty toxic. Wear personal protection equipment.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329689#329689
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: number of seats |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I got mine certified with four seats (You have to install seat belts and rear seat
backs in four position) but installed no rear seat cushions. Reason - to keep
my plane light. The rear belts and cushions weigh a lot. I have removed the
left (pilot side) rear seat back and belt assembly. I have left installed the
back right seat back and belts assembly but still no cushion. I figure that
if I need to carry a third person - they can sit on pillows. My current empty
weight 1617# with the tow bar which I always carry. I figure it is mandatory equipment
- try moving the plane without it.....
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329690#329690
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Potential BIG trouble with GPS...keep those nav radios! |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Check out this article....especially the effects on certified (i read that as "sensitive"
GPS's)
http://www.gpsworld.com/gnss-system/news/data-shows-disastrous-gps-jamming-fcc-approved-broadcaster-11029?utm_source=GPS&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Navigate_01_31_2011&utm_content=data-shows-disastrous-gps-jamming-fcc-approved-broadcaster-11029
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Stark <jerry_stark(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic |
It will take more than 30 minutes to finish the first coat on an airplane.
you should be able to return to where you started and continue spraying.
--- On Fri, 2/4/11, Linn Walters wrote:
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic
Date: Friday, February 4, 2011, 7:55 PM
I know this is far more info than you asked for ...... but hopefully others
might benefit.
Two things make a great paint job .... preparation and ..... practice.- P
ractice on your current airplane and you'll be way ahead when you get to th
e -10.
The best job would be a strip and paint ..... sand and paint leaves a lot o
f extra weight on the airframe.
Work on filling dings and deep scratches ..... the smallest imperfection sh
ows up in the paint.
Choose your base color ..... I like white ..... even if you're going to pai
nt over almost all of it.- It'll give even color presentation everywhere.
Use 3M Fineline masking tape .... green for straight lines, blue for curves
.- Use paint masking paper.- Newspaper doesn't hack it.- The paint jo
b is not the place to save money.
Get a good paint gun.- Yup, I've used HF paint guns, but you get what you
pay for, and a quality tool will not let you down.
Mix the paint, reducer and catalyst.- I like to reduce the paint a little
more than recommended.- Not a lot.- A little.- Use the proper reduce
r for the temperature you'll spray in.- Wait 30 minutes.- They call thi
s 'induction time'.- I don't know why it matters whether the induction ti
me occurs in the spray gun pot or on the airplane .... but it does.
Use a tack cloth everywhere!!!!- Change the cloth often.- They're cheap
and really help a nice paint job.
Spray a tack coat .... really, really, light.- Wait about 30 minutes.
Spray a light cross coat.- Wait 30 minutes.
Spray a second cross coat.
Look carefully at your paint job for- - Throw away that paint left in t
he spray gun.- Resist the urge to spray it on the plane.- All it adds i
s weight .... and sags.- Clean up the equipment and go home.
Did you notice the 'Wait 30 minutes'????- I found that if you scrimp on t
he 30 minutes, the possibility of runs and sags goes way up.- A professio
nal painter may not do this, but I'm not a pro painter and don't play one o
n TV.- No matter how many times I stayed at a Holiday Inn ..... I still n
eeded that time.
Best of luck .... and post the pictures when you get done.
Linn
On 2/4/2011 8:24 PM, rngurley wrote:
> -->- RV10-List message posted by: "rngurley"
>
> I am getting ready to paint my current aircraft.- Does anyone have expe
rience with PPG or Dupont (Imron) paint?- Unfortunately, my RV10 in not r
eady to paint - and probably will not be for some time.- Thank you in adv
ance for any comments.
>
> Dick Gurley
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329675#329675
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic |
Good point Jerry!!! I don't paint everything at once. Wings and tail
feathers off so I can turn them or hang them to get both sides etc.
Fuselage by itself etc. I've never had the room to paint an airplane
assembled. I don't mind taking the time since removing sags and runs is
a lot more time consuming. Also, remember that I'm not a pro ......
Trim paint applied same way, with masking paper and plastic sheet to
protect other areas from overspray. Successive coats start in the same
place, so the oldest paint may be 1 hour (or more) 'old'. Urethanes
have a long pot life if mixed correctly and have the correct reducer, so
the spraying time isn't a factor. I use the 'break' for some liquid for
me and mix more paint. Oh yeah, as someone said .... use a real good
paint face mask with both a cloth and carbon filter. I don't care for
the fresh air hoods/masks because I always seem to catch the hose on
something. It would, of course, be better.
Linn
On 2/5/2011 2:07 PM, Jerry Stark wrote:
> It will take more than 30 minutes to finish the first coat on an
> airplane. you should be able to return to where you started and
> continue spraying.
>
> --- On *Fri, 2/4/11, Linn Walters //* wrote:
>
>
> From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, February 4, 2011, 7:55 PM
>
> >
>
> I know this is far more info than you asked for ...... but
> hopefully others might benefit.
> Two things make a great paint job .... preparation and .....
> practice. Practice on your current airplane and you'll be way
> ahead when you get to the -10.
> The best job would be a strip and paint ..... sand and paint
> leaves a lot of extra weight on the airframe.
> Work on filling dings and deep scratches ..... the smallest
> imperfection shows up in the paint.
>
> Choose your base color ..... I like white ..... even if you're
> going to paint over almost all of it. It'll give even color
> presentation everywhere.
> Use 3M Fineline masking tape .... green for straight lines, blue
> for curves. Use paint masking paper. Newspaper doesn't hack it.
> The paint job is not the place to save money.
>
> Get a good paint gun. Yup, I've used HF paint guns, but you get
> what you pay for, and a quality tool will not let you down.
>
> Mix the paint, reducer and catalyst. I like to reduce the paint a
> little more than recommended. Not a lot. A little. Use the
> proper reducer for the temperature you'll spray in. Wait 30
> minutes. They call this 'induction time'. I don't know why it
> matters whether the induction time occurs in the spray gun pot or
> on the airplane .... but it does.
>
> Use a tack cloth everywhere!!!! Change the cloth often. They're
> cheap and really help a nice paint job.
> Spray a tack coat .... really, really, light. Wait about 30 minutes.
> Spray a light cross coat. Wait 30 minutes.
> Spray a second cross coat.
> Look carefully at your paint job for Throw away that paint left
> in the spray gun. Resist the urge to spray it on the plane. All
> it adds is weight .... and sags. Clean up the equipment and go home.
>
> Did you notice the 'Wait 30 minutes'???? I found that if you
> scrimp on the 30 minutes, the possibility of runs and sags goes
> way up. A professional painter may not do this, but I'm not a pro
> painter and don't play one on TV. No matter how many times I
> stayed at a Holiday Inn ..... I still needed that time.
> Best of luck .... and post the pictures when you get done.
> Linn
>
>
> On 2/4/2011 8:24 PM, rngurley wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "rngurley" >
> >
> > I am getting ready to paint my current aircraft. Does anyone
> have experience with PPG or Dupont (Imron) paint? Unfortunately,
> my RV10 in not ready to paint - and probably will not be for some
> time. Thank you in advance for any comments.
> >
> > Dick Gurley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329675#329675
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> &cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi -
> MATRONICS WEB href="http://forums.matronics.com"
> target="_blank">http://forums.matrobsp; - List
> Contribution Web Site -http://w======================
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic |
I'm half way through painting my '10. Cold temperatures brought me to a
halt. I figure I'll be back up and running in about 3 weeks.
I've documented some of it on my log here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=5986
This being a first attempt, I certainly don't know what I'm talking
about. Just learning, making observations and projections based on one
incomplete experience.
I'm using a Dupont Imron Elite - that seems to be the current Imron
product line. Imron is a big brand with a lot of history. Seems to be
a very high quality line of paint. Things said about previous
iterations of Imron dont necessarily apply so be cautious of all Web advice.
I've gone with a single stage paint rather than a base coat/clear coat -
both have advantages.
There are detailed manufacturers data sheets for all products. They are
on the Web and your local paint supplier will have them. I suggest
reading them and treating them as gospel before listening to any other
advice. It's in the manufacturers best interest to have their products
perform well and to be used optimally. The only notable exception I
found surrounds regulations around VOCs (the poison stuff your going to
spray all over the place). A little reading between the lines can help
get slightly better results, i.e. don't be afraid to thin stuff a bit
more than spec'd.
Urethane paints are highly toxic. Hang around a paint distributor for a
few hours and you'll start to see some of the effects. The toxicity
apparently caught some of the old hands by surprise. Ventilation is
good, fresh air to breath mandatory in my opinion. I like my fresh
air system so much I often use it when sanding fiberglass.
Pay attention to data sheets - things like 30 min induction time is
mandatory for some paints (e.g. epoxies), not for others. Temperature
ranges seem to be important - keeping the aircraft AND the paint within
the range eliminates a lot of problems.. If they say spray one light
coat, wait, they spray full coat - do it for best results. If they say
spray two full coats as a cross coat, do that.
Having a paint supplier that is local and accessible is more important
than the brand of paint in my opinion. Unless you go with one of the
folks that specialize in serving homebuilders. Loehle has documented a
lot of good stuff even though I'm not using his system. He has a good
pin hole filler product.
The good news is that the modern paints are tough and look great. But
you really don't want to get any on something you don't want it on - it
won't come off easily. Your neighbors will not like any overspray. I
wonder what refinishing is like for an aircraft painted with Imron -
cant imagine that it strips... does it?
Paint guns - A pro-grade HVLP setup seem optimal. By pro grade I mean
$$$$ with clean high pressure air to the gun and pressure reduction done
in the head. Watching the local pros use there equipment with Imron is
entirely different than what I'm doing. I have a high quality HVLP gun
with a combination low pressure turbine and fresh air system from
Aircraft spruce. Everything you need for about $1,000. I can get good
results but not as easily or as productively as the pros around the
corner from me. An old style high pressure system will work with this
paint too by most accounts (I don't really know). The old pros will
swear by it (because it's what they know). You'll waste a lot more
paint. The stuff can get very expensive, especially in the fancy
colors. You'll throw off a lot more toxic, sticky stuff.
Practice practice, and I don't necessarily mean just with the gun.
Prep, mixing, everything benefits from practice. Like every job on a
first home build, by the time you finish it, you probably have become
competent in it. Unlike other jobs (riveting), your early mistakes can
be hard to hide. Practice on something else first can be a good thing.
Everyone will tell you that it's 90% prep and 10% paint - it's a lie.
It's 99% prep for a top notch job.
Anyway, I swore I'd never paint. I'm doing it anyway. I'm loving it.
Bill
On 2/4/2011 8:24 PM, rngurley wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rngurley"
>
> I am getting ready to paint my current aircraft. Does anyone have experience
with PPG or Dupont (Imron) paint? Unfortunately, my RV10 in not ready to paint
- and probably will not be for some time. Thank you in advance for any comments.
>
> Dick Gurley
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Dick,
>From the replies you've received and your response, I think you'll do just fine
-- just don't blow yourself up trying to heat your paint both with open flame
in cool weather!!
Your original query was about Imron vs. PPG. When Imron first came out many years
ago, it was the rage cuz it was so tough. Then urethane base/clear came out,
and for some reason the car painters (around here at least) never used Imron
again. I started painting after Imron was no longer in vogue, and I used PPG
with great results for years. Then my supplier got tired of PPG's high expense
and now only deals in Dupont -- so Dupont is what I've been using lately.
As I'm writing this, I'm waiting the 30 minutes between the second and third blue
stripe coat -- Wes trashed his nosewheel pants in a hard landing, so I'm finishing
up a new one. I'll include a couple pics of these steps. I've taken
pictures of the process from patching the fiberglass (he landed with a low air
nosewheel in a trial fit and the tire caught just enough of the back of the glass
to break it out) to present -- so if anyone is interested I can send or post
all of them.
This is Dupont's Centari Acrylic Enamel with gloss hardener added. I like it (or
urethane enalmel) better than base/clear for the plane due to the weight of
clear, and the ease of touching up the one step paints.
One more comment: As you can see, I also paint in pieces in my backyard shop,
and I still use lots of newspaper for these small pieces, covering windows, etc.
But for covering the fuse and wings for doing stripe work, I agree that plastic
or roll paper is the way to go.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329774#329774
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/bluestripe_medium_116.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/stripestaped_medium_798.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/white_medium_131.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/holesfilled_medium_182.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cram <johncram(at)msn.com> |
how have you been doing? I saw this Acai Berry stuff that is really amazing
. I have been feeling fantastic ever since i have been taking it. finally d
iscovered a way to lose weight that works and is really good for you! check
out this article about it if you want to learn more about it and buy some
http://health.com/health . You can get from that page for really cheap. I s
howed it to a few buddies already and they were thanking me earlier saying
they lost 6lbs in under a week so I figured I would fill you in also =3B-)
The stuff is crazy. A lot of great info on that site but lemme know if you
have any questions about it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Gurley" <rngurley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic |
Thank you to all! This has been a great help.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 4:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Experience with paint - off RV10 topic
Hey Dick,
>From the replies you've received and your response, I think you'll do just
fine -- just don't blow yourself up trying to heat your paint both with open
flame in cool weather!!
Your original query was about Imron vs. PPG. When Imron first came out many
years ago, it was the rage cuz it was so tough. Then urethane base/clear
came out, and for some reason the car painters (around here at least) never
used Imron again. I started painting after Imron was no longer in vogue,
and I used PPG with great results for years. Then my supplier got tired of
PPG's high expense and now only deals in Dupont -- so Dupont is what I've
been using lately.
As I'm writing this, I'm waiting the 30 minutes between the second and third
blue stripe coat -- Wes trashed his nosewheel pants in a hard landing, so
I'm finishing up a new one. I'll include a couple pics of these steps.
I've taken pictures of the process from patching the fiberglass (he landed
with a low air nosewheel in a trial fit and the tire caught just enough of
the back of the glass to break it out) to present -- so if anyone is
interested I can send or post all of them.
This is Dupont's Centari Acrylic Enamel with gloss hardener added. I like
it (or urethane enalmel) better than base/clear for the plane due to the
weight of clear, and the ease of touching up the one step paints.
One more comment: As you can see, I also paint in pieces in my backyard
shop, and I still use lots of newspaper for these small pieces, covering
windows, etc. But for covering the fuse and wings for doing stripe work, I
agree that plastic or roll paper is the way to go.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329774#329774
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/bluestripe_medium_116.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/stripestaped_medium_798.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/white_medium_131.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/holesfilled_medium_182.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Winter and wheel pants |
Last year I left my wheel pants on for the entire winter.
Unfortunately, ice chunks formed in the space behind the tires. The
rotation of the tires hurled the chunks around inside the wheel pants
and caused the paint to crack and chip from the inside. Last spring I
repainted all 3 pants. I didn't want to repeat the painting but I
wanted to keep the main gear strut fairings in place so I came up with
this solution.
The fiberglass was laid up over the wheel pant using duct tape for the
separation medium. Each hole on the wheel pant was marked with a
sharpie to keep the alignment of the strut correct. I used 4 layers of
bidirectional cloth. The layup is in 2 pieces. They were done
simultaneously. The aft piece was laid up first. I used 2 pieces of
duct placed adhesive side to adhesive side to separate the two pieces.
The duct tape was placed on the forward edge of the aft layup and the
forward layup was done over the duct tape. After the glass was laid up
I ran a nail through each black sharpie mark trying to keep the nail
hole centered on the screw hole. I then drilled to the correct size and
added nut plates. I'm not going to paint these--the sun is too low to
damage them and they are not outside for long.
I flew the setup today and noticed no adverse effects. It has been so
long since I flew without wheel pants and gear fairings I don't know
exactly how much the airspeed is affected and what the difference
between the two setups would be. I read somewhere that most of the drag
comes from the gear struts so I'm sure it helps some, but how much I
can't quantify.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 238 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
I have posted on this topic before.
Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires, pressur
es, ect.
I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he in
dicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when peo
ple installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor gear d
esign. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear but is t
he cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.
I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer
to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes
. It is the system hitting a natural frequency.
Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models t
o stop it.
I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the ex
act toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two d
ifferent sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next p
lan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from PlaneAround
.com and start stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I will start find
ing a good way change the moment of inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it i
n the front to back direction.
I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage w
ith every landing.
I will find a way to eliminate it though.
Let me know if you find anything out.
Thanks, Scott
On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
>
> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but n
othing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are
smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly m
oving forward and back.
> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the s
haking that anyone has discovered?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Roger Standley
> N291RV
> 165 hours
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Crow Harnesses |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks, Linn... I sometimes do slouch quite a bit, which is probably what
you're seeing. I did some adusting, per your recommendaton, and I think
it'll work.
Now I just need to figure out what seat position I want to fly it in.
-Rob
On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 3:12 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Rob, I agree that the pads could be a little more forward. In the first
> picture it looks like you're leaning forward a little to put tension on the
> harness. Either that or you have a serious shoulder/back problem!!!
> If it was me, I'd move the 'Y' forward a little and then take the slack out
> by pulling on the adjustment for the shoulder belts. The shoulder harness
> should be adjusted so that in your 'cruise' seat position with the harness
> just a little slack from snug (yeah, go ahead and measure that!) you can
> reach all the stuff on the panel that you need to ..... without having to
> twist the upper torso very much. The only problem moving the 'Y' forward is
> that it causes the shoulder belts to rub the side of the neck. This is a
> problem I have in my Pitts, and the solution was the shoulder pads for car
> shoulder belts. Nice and soft on the neck now. But you'd hate to just
> cover up the pads you paid so dearly for.
> Linn
>
>
> On 2/4/2011 2:25 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>
>> Anyone using the Crow seatbelts in their -10? When I ordered mine, I
>> didn't specify and dimensions--I just said I needed a complete set for the
>> RV-10, since I understand they've done a few. Having now installed mine,
>> the shoulder straps seem to be too short between the latch and the "Y". See
>> the attached pictures. The "Y" is right on top of the headrest. I could
>> move that back a few inches, but then the shoulder pads would be in the
>> wrong place. Something doesn't seem right here--any ideas?
>> -Rob
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
>> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had
a fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added
another spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear
pivot nut one flat. Most of the shimmy went away.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I have posted on this topic before.
> Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other
RV-10's.
> Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires,
pressures, ect.
> I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and
he indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that
when people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a
poor gear design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a
landing gear but is the cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of
view.
> It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it
occurs. I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and
use my buffer to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around
25 mph, it shakes. It is the system hitting a natural frequency.
> Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV
models to stop it.
>
> I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get
the exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have
tried two different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no
luck. My next plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant
spacers from PlaneAround.com and start stiffening the wheel pant to the
gear. Then I will start finding a good way change the moment of inertia
of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to back direction.
> I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a
massage with every landing.
> I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>
> Let me know if you find anything out.
> Thanks, Scott
>
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley"
wrote:
>
>>
>> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was
landing. I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph.
Sometimes not too much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems
to make it worse but nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20
mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth. He said that the left main was
shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward and back.
>> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize
the shaking that anyone has discovered?
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Roger Standley
>> N291RV
>> 165 hours
>>
>>
>> ========================
>>
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ========================
>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ========================
>>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
>> ========================
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Landing gear shake |
I mounted a camera on the bottom of my RV-10 to find out what was shaking
and what was not. The main gear has a shake at 34 kts and started
When I put my wheel pants on. I have balanced and changed air pressures with
no real success. The nose gear would shimmy at 15kts if
Tension was loose. The camera shows the wheel pants get into an oscillating
motion. It is an up down motion. And as Scott I believe it is from the
Poor gear design. I have no noticeable shake on grass. My shake seems to be
worse with more load in the airplane. That being said I can break hard
quick thru it and without much shake.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a
fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another
spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut
one flat. Most of the shimmy went away.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
I have posted on this topic before.
Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires,
pressures, ect.
I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor
gear design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear
but is the cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.
I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer
to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes.
It is the system hitting a natural frequency.
Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models
to stop it.
I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the
exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two
different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next
plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from
PlaneAround.com <http://PlaneAround.com/> and start stiffening the wheel
pant to the gear. Then I will start finding a good way change the moment of
inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to back direction.
I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage
with every landing.
I will find a way to eliminate it though.
Let me know if you find anything out.
Thanks, Scott
On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I
have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph
are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be
rapidly moving forward and back.
Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
shaking that anyone has discovered?
Thank you,
Roger Standley
N291RV
165 hours
=========
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List
=========
ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
=========
http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
I did exactly the same thing as Geoff and got exactly the same results.
David Maib
40559
340 hours
On Feb 7, 2011, at 11:34 AM, Geoff Combs wrote:
> I mounted a camera on the bottom of my RV-10 to find out what was shaking and
what was not. The main gear has a shake at 34 kts and started
> When I put my wheel pants on. I have balanced and changed air pressures with
no real success. The nose gear would shimmy at 15kts if
> Tension was loose. The camera shows the wheel pants get into an oscillating motion.
It is an up down motion. And as Scott I believe it is from the
> Poor gear design. I have no noticeable shake on grass. My shake seems to be worse
with more load in the airplane. That being said I can break hard
> quick thru it and without much shake.
>
> Geoff
>
> Geoff Combs
> President
> 614-834-5227p
> 614-834-5230f
> www.aerosportmodeling.com
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 10:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>
> I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a fair
bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another spacer
on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut one flat.
Most of the shimmy went away.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>
> I have posted on this topic before.
> Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
> Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires, pressures,
ect.
> I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he indicated
that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when people
installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor gear design.
A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear but is the cheapest
shape from a manufacturing point of view.
> It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.
I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer to
get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes. It
is the system hitting a natural frequency.
> Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models to
stop it.
>
> I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the exact
toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two different
sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next plan,
when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from PlaneAround.com and
start stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I will start finding a good
way change the moment of inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front
to back direction.
> I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage with
every landing.
> I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>
> Let me know if you find anything out.
> Thanks, Scott
>
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
>
>>
>> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I
have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too much
but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but nothing
will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth.
He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward
and back.
>> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the shaking
that anyone has discovered?
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Roger Standley
>> N291RV
>> 165 hours
>>
>>
>> =========
>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> =========
>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> =========
>>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
Jesse, I really like what you tried and have thought about it. I never had a
shake until around 100 - 150 hours. If the front gear settles down slightly it
changes the toe-in.
If it is still possible can you measure the distance between the prop and the
ground?
Where did you purchase the spacer?
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 8:59:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a fair
bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another spacer on
the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut one flat. Most
of the shimmy went away.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
I have posted on this topic before.
>Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
>Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires, pressures,
>ect.
>I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
>indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
>people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor gear
>design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear but is the
>cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
>It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs. I
>can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer to get
>the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes. It is the
>system hitting a natural frequency.
>Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models to
>stop it.
>
>
>I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the exact
>toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two different
>sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next plan, when I
>get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from PlaneAround.com and start
>stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I will start finding a good way
>change the moment of inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to back
>direction.
>I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage with
>every landing.
>I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>
>
>Let me know if you find anything out.
>Thanks, Scott
>
>On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
>
>
>>Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
>>I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
>>much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
>>nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are
>>smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly
>>moving forward and back.
>>
>>
>>Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
>>shaking that anyone has discovered?
>>
>>Thank you,
>>
>>Roger Standley
>>N291RV
>>165 hours
>>
>> ==========
>>ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=========
>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>=========
>>http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=========
>>
>>
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
n
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
One more question, how did you know you needed to add a spacer during the
conditional inspection?
Is there something you are looking at?
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 8:59:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a fair
bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another spacer on
the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut one flat. Most
of the shimmy went away.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
I have posted on this topic before.
>Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
>Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires, pressures,
>ect.
>I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
>indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
>people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor gear
>design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear but is the
>cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
>It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs. I
>can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer to get
>the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes. It is the
>system hitting a natural frequency.
>Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models to
>stop it.
>
>
>I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the exact
>toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two different
>sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next plan, when I
>get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from PlaneAround.com and start
>stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I will start finding a good way
>change the moment of inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to back
>direction.
>I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage with
>every landing.
>I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>
>
>Let me know if you find anything out.
>Thanks, Scott
>
>On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
>
>
>>Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
>>I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
>>much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
>>nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are
>>smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly
>>moving forward and back.
>>
>>
>>Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
>>shaking that anyone has discovered?
>>
>>Thank you,
>>
>>Roger Standley
>>N291RV
>>165 hours
>>
>> ==========
>>ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=========
>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>=========
>>http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=========
>>
>>
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
n
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Landing gear shake |
Jesse, I am also interested in how to tell you need an additional spacer.
My condition inspection starts at the end of this month..I have 150 tack
hours on the airplane.
Scott, there were two spacers provide in the kit..now if I can just find the
second one..
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
Jesse, I really like what you tried and have thought about it. I never had
a shake until around 100 - 150 hours. If the front gear settles down
slightly it changes the toe-in.
If it is still possible can you measure the distance between the prop and
the ground?
Where did you purchase the spacer?
Scott Schmidt
_____
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 8:59:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a
fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another
spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut
one flat. Most of the shimmy went away.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
I have posted on this topic before.
Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires,
pressures, ect.
I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor
gear design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear
but is the cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.
I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer
to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes.
It is the system hitting a natural frequency.
Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models
to stop it.
I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the
exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two
different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next
plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from
PlaneAround.com <http://PlaneAround.com/> and start stiffening the wheel
pant to the gear. Then I will start finding a good way change the moment of
inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to back direction.
I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage
with every landing.
I will find a way to eliminate it though.
Let me know if you find anything out.
Thanks, Scott
On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing. I
have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph
are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be
rapidly moving forward and back.
Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
shaking that anyone has discovered?
Thank you,
Roger Standley
N291RV
165 hours
=========
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List>
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<http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp:/www.matronics.com/contribu
tion> ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
The spacer came from Van's. It's part # U-1002 on page 46-07. I had
someone hold the tail down and then I lifted up on the nose gear to see
if it was tight. It moved, so I knew it needed another spacer. You can
also tell if the bolt holding the cap on can move freely when you loosen
the nut. The distance from the prop to the ground depends on how the
engine hangs on the engine mounts and other things, but I'll measure
it...7.5".
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2011, at 12:16 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Jesse, I really like what you tried and have thought about it. I
never had a shake until around 100 - 150 hours. If the front gear
settles down slightly it changes the toe-in.
> If it is still possible can you measure the distance between the prop
and the ground?
> Where did you purchase the spacer?
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
>
>
> From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 8:59:26 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>
> I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it
had a fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added
another spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear
pivot nut one flat. Most of the shimmy went away.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>> I have posted on this topic before.
>> Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other
RV-10's.
>> Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires,
pressures, ect.
>> I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it
and he indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard
that when people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down
to a poor gear design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a
landing gear but is the cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of
view.
>> It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it
occurs. I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and
use my buffer to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around
25 mph, it shakes. It is the system hitting a natural frequency.
>> Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV
models to stop it.
>>
>> I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get
the exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have
tried two different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no
luck. My next plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant
spacers from PlaneAround.com and start stiffening the wheel pant to the
gear. Then I will start finding a good way change the moment of inertia
of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to back direction.
>> I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a
massage with every landing.
>> I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>>
>> Let me know if you find anything out.
>> Thanks, Scott
>>
>> On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley"
wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was
landing. I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph.
Sometimes not too much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems
to make it worse but nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20
mph. Speeds above 30 mph are smooth. He said that the left main was
shaking and it looked to be rapidly moving forward and back.
>>> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to
minimize the shaking that anyone has discovered?
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>>
>>> Roger Standley
>>> N291RV
>>> 165 hours
>>>
>>>
>>> =========
>>>
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List=========
>>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> =========
>>>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on=========
>>>
>>
>>
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forum
s.matronics.com
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank dimple dies |
I'm ready to dimple the fuel tanks. I have the tank dimple dies. My
question is do I dimple both the holes in the skins and interior parts
with the tank dies or just the interior parts with the tank dies?
Doesn't seem like the skins would need the "oversized" dimple but they
may have to be the same as the interior parts.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dimple dies |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
I used them on both. To be honest it didn't even occur to me not to.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330008#330008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dimple dies |
Good enough. Thanks again for the help.
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 12:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel tank dimple dies
>
> I used them on both. To be honest it didn't even occur to me not to.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330008#330008
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dimple dies |
RGltcGxlIGJvdGggd2l0aCB0aGUgdGFuayBkaWVzLiAgWW91IGVuZCB1cCB3aXRoIGp1c3QgYSBs
aXR0bGUgbW9yZSBwcm9zZWFsIHVuZGVyIHRoZSByaXZldCBoZWFkLgoKQ2FybAoKU2VudCBmcm9t
IG15IG1vYmlsZSBwaG9uZS7CoMKgIFBsZWFzZSByZWFkIHBhc3QgdGhlIHR5cG9zLgoKLS0tLS1P
cmlnaW5hbCBtZXNzYWdlLS0tLS0KRnJvbTogQmlsbHkgJiBUYW1pIEJyaXR0b24gPHdpbGxpYW1A
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bGUgZGllcwoKSSdtIHJlYWR5IHRvIGRpbXBsZSB0aGUgZnVlbCB0YW5rcy4gIEkgaGF2ZSB0aGUg
dGFuayBkaW1wbGUgZGllcy4gIE15IHF1ZXN0aW9uIGlzIGRvIEkgZGltcGxlIGJvdGggdGhlIGhv
bGVzIGluIHRoZSBza2lucyBhbmQgaW50ZXJpb3IgcGFydHMgd2l0aCB0aGUgdGFuayBkaWVzIG9y
IGp1c3QgdGhlIGludGVyaW9yIHBhcnRzIHdpdGggdGhlICB0YW5rIGRpZXM/ICBEb2Vzbid0IHNl
ZW0gbGlrZSB0aGUgc2tpbnMgd291bGQgbmVlZCB0aGUgIm92ZXJzaXplZCIgZGltcGxlIGJ1dCB0
aGV5IG1heSBoYXZlIHRvIGJlIHRoZSBzYW1lIGFzIHRoZSBpbnRlcmlvciBwYXJ0cy4KCkJpbGwK
Cg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone tried counter balancing the wheel pants with some weight up
front, just like your control surfaces have? I don't remember where I
heard that suggestion, but might make sense to change the harmonic
frequency of the wheel pants.
Kellyt
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 9:34 AM, Geoff Combs
wrote:
> I mounted a camera on the bottom of my RV-10 to find out what was shaking
> and what was not. The main gear has a shake at 34 kts and started
>
> When I put my wheel pants on. I have balanced and changed air pressures with
> no real success. The nose gear would shimmy at 15kts if
>
> Tension was loose. The camera shows the wheel pants get into an oscillating
> motion. It is an up down motion. And as Scott I believe it is from the
>
> Poor gear design. I have no noticeable shake on grass. My shake seems to be
> worse with more load in the airplane. That being said I can break hard
>
> quick thru it and without much shake.
>
>
> Geoff
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> President
>
> 614-834-5227p
> 614-834-5230f
>
> www.aerosportmodeling.com
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 10:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>
>
> I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a
> fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another
> spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut
> one flat. Most of the shimmy went away.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
> On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I have posted on this topic before.
>
> Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
>
> Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires,
> pressures, ect.
>
> I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
> indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
> people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor
> gear design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear
> but is the cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
>
> It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.
> I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer
> to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes.
> It is the system hitting a natural frequency.
>
> Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models
> to stop it.
>
>
> I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the
> exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two
> different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next
> plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from
> PlaneAround.com and start stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I will
> start finding a good way change the moment of inertia of the gear leg,
> stiffening it in the front to back direction.
>
> I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage
> with every landing.
>
> I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>
>
> Let me know if you find anything out.
>
> Thanks, Scott
>
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
>
> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
> Ihave beenfeeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
> much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
> nothingwill make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph
> are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking andit looked to be
> rapidly moving forward and back.
>
> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
> shaking that anyone has discovered?
>
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Roger Standley
>
> N291RV
>
> 165 hours
>
>
> =========
>
> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> =========
>
> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> =========
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> =========
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
Tim Olson and a few others. Tim has the writeup on his website.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
Has anyone tried counter balancing the wheel pants with some weight up
front, just like your control surfaces have? I don't remember where I
heard that suggestion, but might make sense to change the harmonic
frequency of the wheel pants.
Kellyt
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 9:34 AM, Geoff Combs
wrote:
> I mounted a camera on the bottom of my RV-10 to find out what was shaking
> and what was not. The main gear has a shake at 34 kts and started
>
> When I put my wheel pants on. I have balanced and changed air pressures
> with
> no real success. The nose gear would shimmy at 15kts if
>
> Tension was loose. The camera shows the wheel pants get into an
> oscillating
> motion. It is an up down motion. And as Scott I believe it is from the
>
> Poor gear design. I have no noticeable shake on grass. My shake seems to
> be
> worse with more load in the airplane. That being said I can break hard
>
> quick thru it and without much shake.
>
>
> Geoff
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> President
>
> 614-834-5227p
> 614-834-5230f
>
> www.aerosportmodeling.com
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 10:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>
>
> I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a
> fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another
> spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut
> one flat. Most of the shimmy went away.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
> On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I have posted on this topic before.
>
> Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
>
> Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires,
> pressures, ect.
>
> I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
> indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
> people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor
> gear design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear
> but is the cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
>
> It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it
> occurs.
> I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my
> buffer
> to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it
> shakes.
> It is the system hitting a natural frequency.
>
> Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV
> models
> to stop it.
>
>
> I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the
> exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried
> two
> different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My
> next
> plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from
> PlaneAround.com and start stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I
> will
> start finding a good way change the moment of inertia of the gear leg,
> stiffening it in the front to back direction.
>
> I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a
> massage
> with every landing.
>
> I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>
>
> Let me know if you find anything out.
>
> Thanks, Scott
>
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
>
> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
> I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not
> too
> much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
> nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph
> are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be
> rapidly moving forward and back.
>
> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
> shaking that anyone has discovered?
>
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Roger Standley
>
> N291RV
>
> 165 hours
>
>
> =========
>
> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> =========
>
> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> =========
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> =========
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
Yep. lot's of us have done it.... but it seems we all end up with some amou
nt of =0A"shake".- Mine disappeared totally.... for quite a while after i
nstalling =0AGoodyear FCIII's.- I have a small amount now, but acceptable
.--Always try to =0Aavoid braking as long as possible.=0ADon- =0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@g
mail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, February 7, 2011 2:17:
06 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake=0A=0A--> RV10-List messa
ge posted by: Kelly McMullen =0A=0AHas anyone tried coun
ter balancing the wheel pants with some weight up=0Afront, just like your c
ontrol surfaces have? I don't remember where I=0Aheard that suggestion, but
might make sense to change the harmonic=0Afrequency of the wheel pants.=0A
Kellyt=0A=0AOn Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 9:34 AM, Geoff Combs=0A<g.combs@aerospor
tmodeling.com> wrote:=0A> I mounted a camera on the bottom of my RV-10 to f
ind out what was shaking=0A> and what was not. The main gear has a shake at
34 kts and started=0A>=0A> When I put my wheel pants on. I have balanced a
nd changed air pressures with=0A> no real success. The nose gear would shim
my at 15kts if=0A>=0A> Tension was loose. The camera shows the wheel pants
get into an oscillating=0A> motion. It is an up down motion. And as Scott I
believe it is from the=0A>=0A> Poor gear design. I have no noticeable shak
e on grass. My shake seems to be=0A> worse with more load in the airplane.
That being said I can break hard=0A>=0A> quick thru it and without much sha
ke.=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> Geoff=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> Geoff Combs=0A>=0A> President=0A>
=0A> 614-834-5227p=0A> 614-834-5230f=0A>=0A> www.aerosportmodeling.com=0A>
=0A>=0A>=0A> ________________________________=0A>=0A> From: owner-rv10-list
-server(at)matronics.com=0A> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Jesse Saint=0A> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 10:59 AM=0A> To:
rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake=0A>
=0A>=0A>=0A> I just did a condition inspection on N256H. -Before the cond
ition it had a=0A> fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing.
-I added another=0A> spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened t
he nose gear pivot nut=0A> one flat. -Most of the shimmy went away.=0A>
=0A>=0A>=0A> Jesse Saint=0A> Saint Aviation, Inc.=0A> jesse(at)saintaviation.c
om=0A> C: 352-427-0285=0A> F: 815-377-3694=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> On Feb 6, 2011,
at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:=0A>=0A> I have posted on this topic before
.=0A>=0A> Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV
-10's.=0A>=0A> Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes differen
t tires,=0A> pressures, ect.=0A>=0A> I have tried most with no success. I h
ave talked with Van about it and he=0A> indicated that his personal plane e
ven did it. I have also heard that when=0A> people installed the wheel pant
s it started. It all comes down to a poor=0A> gear design. A round gear leg
is not the optimal design for a landing gear=0A> but is the cheapest shape
from a manufacturing point of view.=0A>=0A> It is not the caliper either.
Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.=0A> I can replicate it on th
e ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer=0A> to get the wheel up
to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes.=0A> It is the sys
tem hitting a natural frequency.=0A>=0A> Van said people have put a block o
f wood on the backside of other RV models=0A> to stop it.=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> I
spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the=0A
> exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried
two=0A> different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck.
My next=0A> plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers f
rom=0A> PlaneAround.com and start stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Th
en I will=0A> start finding a good way change the moment of inertia of the
gear leg,=0A> stiffening it in the front to back direction.=0A>=0A> I've be
en told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage=0A> wi
th every landing.=0A>=0A> I will find a way to eliminate it though.=0A>=0A>
=0A>=0A> Let me know if you find anything out.=0A>=0A> Thanks, Scott=0A>=0A
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
=0A>=0A> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was
landing.=0A> I-have been-feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph.
Sometimes not too=0A> much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems
to make it worse but=0A> nothing-will make it stop until slowing below 2
0 mph. Speeds above 30 mph=0A> are smooth. He said that the left main was s
haking and-it looked to be=0A> rapidly moving forward and back.=0A>=0A> A
re others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the=0A
> shaking that anyone has discovered?=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> Thank you,=0A>=0A>=0A
>=0A> Roger Standley=0A>=0A> N291RV=0A>=0A> 165 hours=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>
=0A> ===========0A>=0A>ref="http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A>t=0A>
=0A> ===========0A>=0A> ums.matronics.com">http://forum
s.matronics.com=0A>=0A> ===========0A>=0A> http://www.m
atronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A>=0A>
===========0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>href="http:
//www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator
?RV10-List=0A>t=0A>=0A> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums
.matronics.com=0A>=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:/
/www.matronics.com/contribution=0A>n=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>href="http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-List=0A>t=0A> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matron
ics.com=0A> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matro
=========================0A
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | No longer a project |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
DAR stopped by yesterday afternoon. He had already inspected it apart and wanted
it all together. He took a look at it, watched me run it and taxi it around
the airfield. Satisfied, and after 45 minutes of paperwork he handed me the airworthiness
certificate. I guess it is no longer a project. Now it is an airplane.
It was too late in the day to fly, sun was going down. Weather today was
absolute garbage. Maybe first flight next Saturday, just waiting on weather. Already
starting to get the grin and haven't even flown it yet.
Eric
N518RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330043#330043
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No longer a project |
Congrats on the airworthiness, Your DAR seems a bit anal. Hope your first f
light =0Ais flawless.=0A=0A151BJ 38.6 hrs=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________
_____________=0AFrom: Eric_Kallio <scout019(at)msn.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matron
ics.com=0ASent: Mon, February 7, 2011 2:46:16 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: No l
19(at)msn.com>=0A=0ADAR stopped by yesterday afternoon. He had already inspect
ed it apart and wanted =0Ait all together. He took a look at it, watched me
run it and taxi it around the =0Aairfield. Satisfied, and after 45 minutes
of paperwork he handed me the =0Aairworthiness certificate. I guess it is
no longer a project. Now it is an =0Aairplane. It was too late in the day t
o fly, sun was going down. Weather today =0Awas absolute garbage. Maybe fir
st flight next Saturday, just waiting on weather. =0AAlready starting to ge
t the grin and haven't even flown it yet.=0A=0AEric=0AN518RV=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
Read this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: No longer a project |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
"I guess it is no longer a project"? Who have you been talking to? It'll always
be a project!!! CONGRATS!
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2011, at 4:46 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> DAR stopped by yesterday afternoon. He had already inspected it apart and wanted
it all together. He took a look at it, watched me run it and taxi it around
the airfield. Satisfied, and after 45 minutes of paperwork he handed me the
airworthiness certificate. I guess it is no longer a project. Now it is an airplane.
It was too late in the day to fly, sun was going down. Weather today was
absolute garbage. Maybe first flight next Saturday, just waiting on weather.
Already starting to get the grin and haven't even flown it yet.
>
> Eric
> N518RV
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330043#330043
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
Yes, I did that as well with no change.
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 1:17:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
Has anyone tried counter balancing the wheel pants with some weight up
front, just like your control surfaces have? I don't remember where I
heard that suggestion, but might make sense to change the harmonic
frequency of the wheel pants.
Kellyt
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 9:34 AM, Geoff Combs
wrote:
> I mounted a camera on the bottom of my RV-10 to find out what was shaking
> and what was not. The main gear has a shake at 34 kts and started
>
> When I put my wheel pants on. I have balanced and changed air pressures with
> no real success. The nose gear would shimmy at 15kts if
>
> Tension was loose. The camera shows the wheel pants get into an oscillating
> motion. It is an up down motion. And as Scott I believe it is from the
>
> Poor gear design. I have no noticeable shake on grass. My shake seems to be
> worse with more load in the airplane. That being said I can break hard
>
> quick thru it and without much shake.
>
>
> Geoff
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> President
>
> 614-834-5227p
> 614-834-5230f
>
> www.aerosportmodeling.com
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 10:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>
>
> I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a
> fair bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another
> spacer on the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut
> one flat. Most of the shimmy went away.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
> On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I have posted on this topic before.
>
> Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
>
> Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires,
> pressures, ect.
>
> I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
> indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
> people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor
> gear design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear
> but is the cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
>
> It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.
> I can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer
> to get the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes.
> It is the system hitting a natural frequency.
>
> Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models
> to stop it.
>
>
> I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the
> exact toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two
> different sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next
> plan, when I get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from
> PlaneAround.com and start stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I will
> start finding a good way change the moment of inertia of the gear leg,
> stiffening it in the front to back direction.
>
> I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage
> with every landing.
>
> I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>
>
> Let me know if you find anything out.
>
> Thanks, Scott
>
> On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
>
> Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
> I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
> much but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
> nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph
> are smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be
> rapidly moving forward and back.
>
> Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
> shaking that anyone has discovered?
>
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> Roger Standley
>
> N291RV
>
> 165 hours
>
>
> =========
>
>ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>t
>
> =========
>
> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> =========
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> =========
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>t
>
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>n
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>t
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
Mine measured at 8 11/32". Don't know if there is any slop in the rubber discs
yet.
Interesting it is over one 1" taller.
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:47:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
The spacer came from Van's. It's part # U-1002 on page 46-07. I had someone
hold the tail down and then I lifted up on the nose gear to see if it was tight.
It moved, so I knew it needed another spacer. You can also tell if the bolt
holding the cap on can move freely when you loosen the nut. The distance from
the prop to the ground depends on how the engine hangs on the engine mounts and
other things, but I'll measure it...7.5".
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2011, at 12:16 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
Jesse, I really like what you tried and have thought about it. I never had a
shake until around 100 - 150 hours. If the front gear settles down slightly it
changes the toe-in.
>If it is still possible can you measure the distance between the prop and the
>ground?
>Where did you purchase the spacer?
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
>
________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 8:59:26 AM
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Landing gear shake
>
>I just did a condition inspection on N256H. Before the condition it had a fair
>bit of shimmy in the 25-30 mph range after landing. I added another spacer on
>the nose gear shock strut and tightened the nose gear pivot nut one flat. Most
>of the shimmy went away.
>
>
>Jesse Saint
>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>
>On Feb 6, 2011, at 2:09 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>I have posted on this topic before.
>>Mine does the exact same at the same speeds as does many other RV-10's.
>>Sometimes balancing the tire fixes/helps, sometimes different tires, pressures,
>>ect.
>>I have tried most with no success. I have talked with Van about it and he
>>indicated that his personal plane even did it. I have also heard that when
>>people installed the wheel pants it started. It all comes down to a poor gear
>>design. A round gear leg is not the optimal design for a landing gear but is
the
>>cheapest shape from a manufacturing point of view.
>>It is not the caliper either. Even if I slow down with no braking it occurs.
I
>>can replicate it on the ground with one wheel jacked up and use my buffer to
get
>>the wheel up to 50 mph and when it slows to around 25 mph, it shakes. It is the
>>system hitting a natural frequency.
>>Van said people have put a block of wood on the backside of other RV models to
>>stop it.
>>
>>
>>I spent a considerable amount of time re-drilling my gear legs to get the exact
>>toe-in on both sides and it did not change one thing. I have tried two different
>>sets of tires, pressures from 25-60 psi all with no luck. My next plan, when
I
>>get to it, is to install the wheel pant spacers from PlaneAround.com and start
>>stiffening the wheel pant to the gear. Then I will start finding a good way
>>change the moment of inertia of the gear leg, stiffening it in the front to back
>>direction.
>>I've been told by Vans not to worry about it. Just think of it as a massage with
>>every landing.
>>I will find a way to eliminate it though.
>>
>>
>>Let me know if you find anything out.
>>Thanks, Scott
>>
>>On Jan 23, 2011, at 6:40 PM, "Roger Standley" wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Today I was able to have a guy observe the gear up close as I was landing.
>>>I have been feeling a shake during roll out below 30 mph. Sometimes not too
much
>>>but sometimes significant. Applying brakes seems to make it worse but
>>>nothing will make it stop until slowing below 20 mph. Speeds above 30 mph are
>>>smooth. He said that the left main was shaking and it looked to be rapidly
>>>moving forward and back.
>>>
>>>Are others noticing this shaking? Is there a fix or a way to minimize the
>>>shaking that anyone has discovered?
>>>
>>>Thank you,
>>>
>>>Roger Standley
>>>N291RV
>>>165 hours
>>>
>>> ==========
>>>ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=========
>>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com/
>>>=========
>>>http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/contribution=========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3Ehttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref=%22http://forums.matronics.com/%22%3Ehttp://forums.matronics.com
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>n
>
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>n
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No longer a project |
Jesse, it only really continues to be a project because we want it to!-
- =0ACongrats Eric, and welcome to the family.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviatio
n.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, February 7, 2011 4:19:52
PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: No longer a project=0A=0A--> RV10-List message
posted by: Jesse Saint =0A=0A"I guess it is no lo
nger a project"?- Who have you been talking to?- It'll =0Aalways be a p
roject!!!- CONGRATS!=0A=0AJesse Saint=0ASaint Aviation, Inc.=0Ajesse@sain
taviation.com=0AC: 352-427-0285=0AF: 815-377-3694=0A=0AOn Feb 7, 2011, at 4
llio" =0A> =0A> DAR stopped by yesterday afternoon. He ha
d already inspected it apart and =0A>wanted it all together. He took a look
at it, watched me run it and taxi it =0A>around the airfield. Satisfied, a
nd after 45 minutes of paperwork he handed me =0A>the airworthiness certifi
cate. I guess it is no longer a project. Now it is an =0A>airplane. It was
too late in the day to fly, sun was going down. Weather today =0A>was absol
ute garbage. Maybe first flight next Saturday, just waiting on weather. =0A
>Already starting to get the grin and haven't even flown it yet.=0A> =0A> E
ric=0A> N518RV=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Read this topic online here:=0A> =0A
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330043#330043=0A> =0A> =0A>
====0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Landing gear shake |
We balanced all three wheel pants before flying (photos attached).
Somewhat typical for RV's as long as you don't want to make the lightest
RV you can. It sure hurts to add weight without adding function. That
being said I also had a worse than average nose wheel shimmy for some
time. I tried balancing the wheels and adjusting the castle nut on the
nose gear many times to try & reduce the shimmy. I was able to narrow the
speed range but not eliminate it all together. Then we lifted the nose and
felt some significant movement of the nose gear. After further
investigation we found a loose busing as detailed in this extremely
exciting video staring my hand:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmT38rDenwA
Once I replaced the bushing (with a custom bushing) the shimmy was
completely eliminated and I have not thought about shimmy in the ~200
landing since the correction. I think the shimmy was gone because we had
already optimized the other components (castle nut, balanced wheels,
balanced wheel pants etc...)
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Crow Harnesses |
| From: | "conradb" <conradbooze(at)cox.net> |
Rob;
Attached is the US Transportation AC21-34, a take on the GA safety belt restraint
systems.
Conrad B.
--------
Conrad Booze
Sr. Engineer
P. O. Box 7028
Warner Robins, GA. 31095
(478)-335-4264
conradbooze(at)cox.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330057#330057
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/aircraft_seat_belts__ac21_341_176.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crow Harnesses |
The option I used.
www.inertialbelts.com
I could supply some installed pictures if needed. Contact me offlist.
----- Original Message -----
From: "conradb" <conradbooze(at)cox.net>
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 4:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Crow Harnesses
>
> Rob;
>
> Attached is the US Transportation AC21-34, a take on the GA safety belt
> restraint systems.
>
>
> Conrad B.
>
> --------
> Conrad Booze
> Sr. Engineer
> P. O. Box 7028
> Warner Robins, GA. 31095
> (478)-335-4264
> conradbooze(at)cox.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330057#330057
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/aircraft_seat_belts__ac21_341_176.pdf
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Crow Harnesses |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks, guys... I'm having second thoughts with my "good enough" assessment
from the other day. The belts feel fine, but it seems like the geometry is
off, with the shoulder straps essentially coming from the top-center of the
headrest. I think I'm going to call and have them re-make the front seat
shoulder straps. There's also *way* too much extra strap (around 3 feet)
when I have them adjusted, so something is clearly not right. Maybe when I
said "RV-10" they assumed all RVs are the same? Not really sure what's
going on, but this is something that needs to be done right.
DAR inspection in 13 days. Not exactly what I want to be messing with
now...
-Rob
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 5:34 PM, DLM wrote:
>
> The option I used.
>
> www.inertialbelts.com
>
> I could supply some installed pictures if needed. Contact me offlist.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "conradb" <conradbooze(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 4:38 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Crow Harnesses
>
>
>>
>> Rob;
>>
>> Attached is the US Transportation AC21-34, a take on the GA safety belt
>> restraint systems.
>>
>>
>> Conrad B.
>>
>> --------
>> Conrad Booze
>> Sr. Engineer
>> P. O. Box 7028
>> Warner Robins, GA. 31095
>> (478)-335-4264
>> conradbooze(at)cox.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330057#330057
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/aircraft_seat_belts__ac21_341_176.pdf
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear shake |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Robin, that's one nice hand..... Do you use palmolive or or something
similar? Very impressive. :)
I'm at that phase of the project right now and getting ready to put it up on
the gear on the 26th when I have some help coming to town. It doesn't look
like yours were worn it looks like that's the factory fit. Mine are new and
have equal play.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Van's stuffin advertisements in shipments |
I received the back order items off my FWF kit order today. I was surprised
to find in the box with the Vetterman exhaust, an advertisement for G3i
Ignitions and Flight Data Systems. I just thought it atypical of Van's
pushing a specific product other than their own.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's stuffin advertisements in shipments |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Yeah, I had that in my exhaust kit as well. I think it is Vetterman
putting those in there, not Vans.
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 7:41 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> I received the back order items off my FWF kit order today. I was surprised
> to find in the box with the Vetterman exhaust, an advertisement for G3i
> Ignitions and Flight Data Systems. I just thought it atypical of Vans
> pushing a specific product other than their own.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crow Harnesses |
Let us know what they say. Ordering the same harnesses is near the top
of my todo list.
Jae
40533
On 2/7/2011 6:01 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Thanks, guys... I'm having second thoughts with my "good enough"
> assessment from the other day. The belts feel fine, but it seems like
> the geometry is off, with the shoulder straps essentially coming from
> the top-center of the headrest. I think I'm going to call and have
> them re-make the front seat shoulder straps. There's also *way* too
> much extra strap (around 3 feet) when I have them adjusted, so
> something is clearly not right. Maybe when I said "RV-10" they
> assumed all RVs are the same? Not really sure what's going on, but
> this is something that needs to be done right.
> DAR inspection in 13 days. Not exactly what I want to be messing with
> now...
> -Rob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:Exhaust |
Exactly,
BTW, you have the blow out gaskets from Van's and in the Vettermans box
there is another set of these Gaskets, so one set to much (at least in
my kit).
Werner
On 08.02.2011 04:06, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
> Yeah, I had that in my exhaust kit as well. I think it is Vetterman
> putting those in there, not Vans.
>
> On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 7:41 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>> I received the back order items off my FWF kit order today. I was surprised
>> to find in the box with the Vetterman exhaust, an advertisement for G3i
>> Ignitions and Flight Data Systems. I just thought it atypical of Vans
>> pushing a specific product other than their own.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door Pin - Bullets |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper adjustment
procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and bullet shaped
pins?
I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the
bullet on (with lok-tite).
But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two
pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate,
one has no door.
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillip Perry
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2011 7:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Pin - Bullets
Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper
adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and
bullet shaped pins?
I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put
the bullet on (with lok-tite).
But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Masys, Daniel R" <dan.masys(at)vanderbilt.edu> |
| Subject: | Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12 |
Since building RV's is like eating potato chips (you can't stop at one), I
am pleased to confirm that once you have a fine high performance RV-10 you
can still have fun building an RV-12 Light Sport.
We had a little RV family reunion in Nashville of all 3 planes my wife and
I built. She made an online photo show at:
http://www.photoshow.com/watch/rn2dF6mM?language=enu
.com/watch/rn2dF6mM?language=enu?source=em_ps_show_recipient>
And the first flight of the RV-12 is at:
http://www.photoshow.com/watch/yF2vr9Cn?language=enu
.com/watch/yF2vr9Cn?language=enu?source=em_ps_show_recipient>
-Dan Masys
RV-10 455 hrs
RV-12 4 hrs ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Pretty much that simple. You thread the inside of the rods as part of the
standard Van's install (page 45, step 1) for marking the hole location in
the door jamb. After the hole marking step you simply cut off the taper and
install the threaded tips. The aluminum blocks simply replace the stock
Delrin pieces. Unlike the Delrin pieces you can match drill from the
aluminum blocks for the mount holes.
Alignment for the door latch sensors is identical to stock except that the
magnets are integral to the tips (I think all of the sources now do this).
Just adjust the reed switches so that they only trigger when the latch is
completely shut.
Bob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 8:00 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper
> adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and
> bullet shaped pins?
>
> I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the
> bullet on (with lok-tite).
>
> But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
The aftermarket pins from IFLYRV10.com are stainless with steel threaded
rods and installed with locktite.
Bob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 8:28 AM, DLM wrote:
> Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two
> pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate, one
> has no door.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Phillip Perry
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 08, 2011 7:00 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Door Pin - Bullets
>
> Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper
> adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and
> bullet shaped pins?
>
> I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the
> bullet on (with lok-tite).
>
> But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12 |
I can confirm that. My first kit was a 9A, now flying a '10 (512 hrs) and
helped a friend build a '12 in my garage. Started the RV-12 in mid-July and
finished up at Christmas. It's quick to build and cost ME nothing for all
the fun.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
Subject: RV10-List: Three-peat offender: 7A, 10 and now 12
Since building RV's is like eating potato chips (you can't stop at one), I
am pleased to confirm that once you have a fine high performance RV-10 you
can still have fun building an RV-12 Light Sport.
-Dan Masys
RV-10 455 hrs
RV-12 4 hrs ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
> It seems that its two pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they
loosen and separate, one has no door.
I think it'd be difficult for a pin to thread all the way out without
noticing. That said, it's not too difficult to build it such that even
without the pins, the rod engages with the aluminum block.
-Rob
On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 6:28 AM, DLM wrote:
> Has anyone examined the pin system for longevity. It seems that its two
> pieces of aluminum threaded together that if they loosen and separate, one
> has no door.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Phillip Perry
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 08, 2011 7:00 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Door Pin - Bullets
>
> Does anyone know of a site that shows the installation and proper
> adjustment procedures for the folks who install the aluminum blocks and
> bullet shaped pins?
>
> I'm guessing you simply cut the taper off the pins, then tap, then put the
> bullet on (with lok-tite).
>
> But am I missing anything else? Is it really that simple?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
It is a pretty simple add-on and provides a lot of security. I have been flying
for over as year with no noticeable wear or trouble. I consider these pins virtually
a mandatory option. I had to ream out one or two of my aluminum receivers
as the install angle is very critical and they were mounted very slightly
off dead center. The advantage is that they bring the door and door pins into
alignment and provide a super secure lock.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330284#330284
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: No longer a project |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Well done. Hope to see the new beast - maybe OSH !
Be sure to post some pics here and on the Vans first flights sheets.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330287#330287
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
Mike, I couldn't have said it better myself.- Well over 200 hours, and th
ey =0Astill look band new.... Although I still ck each door on every single
flight, =0Aand will continue doing that forever, I have much more confiden
ce in these vs. =0Athe stk Van's install.- Also consider doing (at least)
this mandatory.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________
=0AFrom: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASen
t: Wed, February 9, 2011 10:36:13 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re: Door Pin - B
t>=0A=0AIt is a pretty simple add-on and provides a lot of security. I have
been flying =0Afor over as year with no noticeable wear or trouble. I cons
ider these pins =0Avirtually a mandatory option. I had to ream out one or t
wo of my aluminum =0Areceivers as the install angle is very critical and th
ey were mounted very =0Aslightly off dead center. The advantage is that the
y bring the door and door =0Apins into alignment and provide a super secure
lock.=0A=0A--------=0ASee you OSH '11 =0AQ/B - flying 1 yr+=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
Read this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php
=0A=0A=0A =0A______________________________________________________________
______________________=0ANever miss an email again!=0AYahoo! Toolbar alerts
features/mail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: No longer a project |
| From: | "Tom Biggs" <rv10(at)tmbiggs.com> |
[Mr. Green] I am green with envy. Congo Rats
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330341#330341
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vicki Jones <vickiajones(at)hotmail.com> |
We were scheduled with a paint shop that finishes out the fiberglass and un
fortunately the shop has closed due to the owner passing away. Does anyone
know of any reputable paint shops that finish out the fiberglass as part o
f the paint job? We are in the southeast (TN) but would be willing to fly
the plane to another state for the right paint shop.
Thanks=2C
Vicki
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Koziol <biovail2001(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Vicki, sorry to hear about the death of the paint shop owner.- I had m
y RV 9A painted a year ago at Lancaster Aero Refinishers at Smoketown Airpo
rt near Lancaster, PA- Lou owns the shop and Dave does the painting.- T
heir number is 717 394-5805.- The work is top notch and I did not do any
prep work on the fiberglass pieces prior to dropping off the plane.- A pi
cture is attached.-I was completely thrilled with the paint job.- It's
been about 1 year 1 month and the job-still looks great.-
-
Smoketown Airport is not around the corner, but the price, workmanship and
3 week turn around time all exceeded my expectations.
-
Best of Luck
-
Steve Koziol
267 614-8251
N424JK 117 Hours
--- On Wed, 2/9/11, Vicki Jones wrote:
From: Vicki Jones <vickiajones(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Paint Shop
Date: Wednesday, February 9, 2011, 8:15 PM
We were scheduled with a paint shop that finishes out the fiberglass and un
fortunately the shop has closed due to the owner passing away.- Does anyo
ne know of any reputable paint shops that finish out the fiberglass as part
of the paint job?- We are in the southeast (TN) but would be willing to
fly the plane to another state for the right paint shop.
-
Thanks,
Vicki
=0A=0A=0A =0A______________________________________________________________
______________________=0ANever miss an email again!=0AYahoo! Toolbar alerts
features/mail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Koziol <biovail2001(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Vicki
-
Sorry to hear about the death of the paint shop owner.- I had my RV 9A pa
inted a year ago at Lancaster Aero Refinishers at Smoketown Airport near La
ncaster, PA- Lou owns the shop and Dave does the painting.- Their numbe
r is 717 394-5805.- The work is top notch and I did not do any prep work
on the fiberglass pieces prior to dropping off the plane.--I was comple
tely thrilled with the paint job.- It's been about 1 year 1 month and the
job-still looks great.-
-
Smoketown Airport is not around the corner, but the price, workmanship and
3 week turn around time all exceeded my expectations.
-
Best of Luck
-
Steve Koziol
267 614-8251
N424JK 117 Hours
--- On Wed, 2/9/11, Vicki Jones wrote:
From: Vicki Jones <vickiajones(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Paint Shop
Date: Wednesday, February 9, 2011, 8:15 PM
We were scheduled with a paint shop that finishes out the fiberglass and un
fortunately the shop has closed due to the owner passing away.- Does anyo
ne know of any reputable paint shops that finish out the fiberglass as part
of the paint job?- We are in the southeast (TN) but would be willing to
fly the plane to another state for the right paint shop.
-
Thanks,
Vicki
___________________________________________________________________________
_________
Never miss an email again!
Yahoo! Toolbar alertsfeatures/mail/
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Very nice paint scheme and color selection...swwwweeeeeetttttt!
Date: Wed=2C 9 Feb 2011 18:18:04 -0800
From: biovail2001(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint Shop
Hi Vicki=2C sorry to hear about the death of the paint shop owner. I had m
y RV 9A painted a year ago at Lancaster Aero Refinishers at Smoketown Airpo
rt near Lancaster=2C PA Lou owns the shop and Dave does the painting. The
ir number is 717 394-5805. The work is top notch and I did not do any prep
work on the fiberglass pieces prior to dropping off the plane. A picture
is attached. I was completely thrilled with the paint job. It's been about
1 year 1 month and the job still looks great.
Smoketown Airport is not around the corner=2C but the price=2C workmanship
and 3 week turn around time all exceeded my expectations.
Best of Luck
Steve Koziol
267 614-8251
N424JK 117 Hours
--- On Wed=2C 2/9/11=2C Vicki Jones wrote:
From: Vicki Jones <vickiajones(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Paint Shop
Date: Wednesday=2C February 9=2C 2011=2C 8:15 PM
We were scheduled with a paint shop that finishes out the fiberglass and un
fortunately the shop has closed due to the owner passing away. Does anyone
know of any reputable paint shops that finish out the fiberglass as part o
f the paint job? We are in the southeast (TN) but would be willing to fly
the plane to another state for the right paint shop.
Thanks=2C
Vicki
=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Get more visitors on archmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php?o
=US2140&cmp=Yahoo&ctv=Q107Tagline&s=Y&s2=EM&b=50">Yahoo! Search
Marketing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
Loehle is in Wartrace, TN. Not sure how close they are to you, but I
know they do the finish work on the fiberglass.
http://www.loehle.com/
On 2/9/11 7:15 PM, Vicki Jones wrote:
> We were scheduled with a paint shop that finishes out the fiberglass
> and unfortunately the shop has closed due to the owner passing away.
> Does anyone know of any reputable paint shops that finish out the
> fiberglass as part of the paint job? We are in the southeast (TN) but
> would be willing to fly the plane to another state for the right paint
> shop.
>
> Thanks,
> Vicki
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <w.edgerton(at)verizon.net> |
From: Vicki Jones <vickiajones(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Paint Shop
We were scheduled with a paint shop that finishes out the
fiberglass and un
fortunately the shop has closed due to the owner passing away.
Does anyone
know of any reputable paint shops that finish out the fiberglass
as part o
f the paint job? We are in the southeast (TN) but would be
willing to fly
the plane to another state for the right paint shop.
Thanks=2C
Vicki
_____________________________________________________________________
Hello Vicki,
GLO Custom Painting Grady O'Neil Just north of Fort Worth, TX He
usually only paints RV's. He painted mine in 2007 and quite a few other
RV10's. He has a new web site which only shows four RV10's but he's done
many more than that.
Grady is a really nice guy whose easy to work with and does really good
work.
http://www.glocustom.com/
http://www.glocustom.com/custom-paint/6
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
I have 2000 plus hours on my RV8 with Lightspeed ignition. No problems,
great performance. I have found that NIPON Denso spark plugs number X27GPRU
with adapter bushings available from Light speed seem to perform the
best. (note, I have dual electronic ignitions, NO Magnetos). I use a small
standby battery that will provide 4 hours of operation in the unlikely event
of total electircal system failure.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
Post note: Sheilded wire is unneccessary. I use high grade Indy race wire.
On Thu, Feb 3, 2011 at 2:21 PM, greghale wrote:
>
> Can anyone give me some advice on a good electronic ignition system for my
> RV10? I will be going to Sun n Fun this year and want to check into
> this....Thanks
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329487#329487
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electronic ignition |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
I will add a post note to my previous reply,
To my knowledge, the Lightspeed is the only full CAPACITANCE DISCHARGE
ignition versus the inductive systems of most of the others.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Thu, Feb 3, 2011 at 2:38 PM, tsts4 wrote:
>
> Let=92s see, some of the usual suspects include:
>
> Light Speed Engineering=92s Plasma III:
> http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/
>
> Unison LASAR:
> http://www.unisonindustries.com/ourproducts/lasarelectronicignition.html
>
> EFii: http://www.flyefii.com/
>
> G3i: http://www.g3ignition.com/
>
> EMAG (suppose to be real close to releasing a P-Mag for the 6-cyl Lycs):
> www.emagair.com
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329489#329489
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel quantity calibration problem |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
I experienced the same problem years ago when I built my RV8. I converted
to Capacitant sensors in the fuel tanks. Easy installation, superior
accuarcy and no problems.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Wed, Feb 2, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> I am trying to calibrate the fuel quantity levels on the GRT EIS 6000. I
> have the standard Vans floats in the tank. Before O call GRT in the morning
> I wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue...
>
> During calibration, following the sheet from GRT, I got AuxSF/Auxoff
> setting of 52/151 for the left tank and 79/225 for the right. These numbers
> seem a little higher than others have posted, but there may be more
> resistance in my circuit. During calibration of the tanks I had noticeable
> movement in the values on the EIS and on the EFIS. However, with the tanks
> full and the settings entered into the calibration menu, my tanks both read
> 2 gallons on the EIS. I have rechecked my numbers as well as my settings. I
> am set to integers and have actually had to set the sensors to reverse
> sensing because they were counting down when adding fuel.
>
> Any thoughts, or similar experiences out there?
>
> Eric Kallio
> 3 days until DAR...if I can get my fuel level calibrated.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=329394#329394
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Check with Flying Colors of Texas (http://flyingcolorsoftexas.com/index.html) in Gainsville, Tx. They do body work and excellent paint. My RV10 just got out of the paint shop and looks fabulous.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330490#330490
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exhaust Pipe Temps |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone measured the temperature of the exhaust PIPES either as they exit the
bottom cowl, or closer to the tips? Not the egt, but the pipes themselves.
Thanks, Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330555#330555
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Seat belt countersink |
It has been a long time since I have seen any emails about this=2C but wasn
't there a countersink being sent around for countersinking the screws that
go into the cabin top for the front seat belts?
Anyone have it?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belt countersink |
Hey John,
Yes, the traveling countersink is in residence and ready to roll. If
others are ready (i.e. have your canopy -- you can go ahead and
countersink the hard spots before you have the seatbelts), send me your
addresses off line and I'll start another mailing loop. Don't forget, I
also have the helicoil kit for re-threading the nosewheel fork for the
tow studs.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: RV 10 group
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2011 12:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Seat belt countersink
It has been a long time since I have seen any emails about this, but
wasn't there a countersink being sent around for countersinking the
screws that go into the cabin top for the front seat belts?
Anyone have it?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Pipe Temps |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
I had my exhaust pipes ceramic coated inside and out. This resulted in a
dramatic reduction in radiated heaat.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Thu, Feb 10, 2011 at 11:13 PM, partner14 wrote:
>
> Has anyone measured the temperature of the exhaust PIPES either as they
> exit the bottom cowl, or closer to the tips? Not the egt, but the pipes
> themselves.
> Thanks, Don McDonald
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330555#330555
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Pipe Temps |
The downside to such coatings is that once coated they can never be weld
repaired. Just one of the trade-offs we have to weigh and make our choices.
On 2/11/2011 7:51 AM, Richard Martin wrote:
> I had my exhaust pipes ceramic coated inside and out. This resulted
> in a dramatic reduction in radiated heaat.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
>
> On Thu, Feb 10, 2011 at 11:13 PM, partner14
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Has anyone measured the temperature of the exhaust PIPES either as
> they exit the bottom cowl, or closer to the tips? Not the egt,
> but the pipes themselves.
> Thanks, Don McDonald
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330555#330555
>
>
> ption,
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ====
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Seat belt countersink |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
In response to the questions about the helicoil kit for the tow studs:
The socket head bolts (allen screws) are fine. Others had posted here that the
steel studs eventually stripped the aluminum threads in the fork; either with
difficulty threading the studs in, normal wear from installing/uninstalling
the pants, or in our case from destroying the pants on the runway! At any rate,
it is a five minute fix to drill out the aluminum threads, tap with the oversize
tap and install the stainless threads so that you don't have to worry about
loosing a stud or pants somewhere with no access to the kit. We paid $50
for the kit -- I'd "rent" it out with the required coils for $5 plus shipping.
Your nose fork and pants don't change, it just allows for the steel threads on
the studs to contact stainless threads in the fork instead of the aluminum threads.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330592#330592
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | OT - Cirrus crash - perhaps having an open door fly off is |
not the worst design consequence
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=589_1297368527
(warning, obviously this dated video depicts a pilot's death, but not
graphically)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - Cirrus crash - perhaps having an open door fly off |
is n
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Awful and tragic situation, but a good warning to all RV10 pilots. Check and double
check those door pins carefully as they are surely the weakest and poorest
designed component of the RV10. A careful visual double check by the pilot must
be a basic part of the preflight procedure.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330693#330693
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - Cirrus crash - perhaps having an open door fly |
off is n
I never look for the pins; I do feel each end twice before committing
aviation. Fortunately the door departs the aircraft in the RV10, usually at
rotation. This allows the door to sail over the tail. Having had a door in
an Arrow open after takeoff, control was not a problem. The right seat
passenger had a more difficult time cleaning himself.
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2011 7:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: OT - Cirrus crash - perhaps having an open door fly
off is n
>
> Awful and tragic situation, but a good warning to all RV10 pilots. Check
> and double check those door pins carefully as they are surely the weakest
> and poorest designed component of the RV10. A careful visual double check
> by the pilot must be a basic part of the preflight procedure.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '11
> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330693#330693
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - Cirrus crash - perhaps having an open door fly |
off is n
The following statement was made in this thread about the RV10: "those
door pins carefully as they are surely the weakest and poorest designe
d component of the RV10."
This can be onew OPINION but it factually is NOT TRUE. I would be willi
ng to bet a large sum that ALL the incidents with the RV10 doors were ei
ther Pilot error OR Builder error.
I will leave it at that.................just wanted new RV10 builders re
ading these post not to freak out and wonder what they must do different
in the building process.
DEAN
805HL 500 hours
____________________________________________________________
$65/Hr Job - 25 Openings
Part-Time job ($20-$65/hr). Requirements: Home Internet Access
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4d562150dfc0034bb5cst01vuc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Potential BIG trouble with GPS...keep those nav radios! |
| From: | "mmayfield" <mmayfield(at)ozemail.com.au> |
I think that problem, if it exists, will get nipped in the bud pretty quick.
There is one user who won't tolerate known GPS interference, and who is highly
influential: the military.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330725#330725
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Hmm,
There have been only 3 significant modifications from the factory.
Only one of those areas modified was due to problems on more than one
aircraft, and actually consisted of two modifications to the same
area. (warning lights and extra latch)
Your statement is a very broad brush allegation, with a small element
of truth...yes, all aircraft accidents are due to pilot error as well.
They shouldn't have challenged nature by attempting to fly in a man
made machine.
The fact that there have been at least a dozen door incidents is no
coincidence, and very unlikely that there was significant builder
error in that many aircraft. The fact that the door latching isn't
that positive, requires significant care by the pilot to ensure
adequate engagement is all evidence of poor design. No aircraft system
should require extra special attention on every flight like the
factory door design does.
It is better that new builders be aware of the potential safety issue
and the options available to reduce the risk than to tell them "just
build it" like some would do. Better to spend a bit extra time and
perhaps money on the doors than to have the airframe damaged, have to
spend a whole lot more time fixing it, assuming losing a door doesn't
precipitate a more serious accident. With awareness builders can make
informed choices and ensure they don't suffer the same problems of
those that led the way.
Kelly
40866
doors, etc.
EAA Tech Counselor
On Fri, Feb 11, 2011 at 10:56 PM, ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> This can be onew OPINION but it factually is NOT TRUE. I would be willing
> to bet a large sum that ALL the incidents with the RV10 doors were either
> Pilot error OR Builder error.
>
> I will leave it at that.................just wanted new RV10 builders
> reading these post not to freak out and wonder what they must do different
> in the building process.
>
> DEAN
>
> 805HL 500 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
One other observation. When the door is closed and latched, the full
circumference of the rear pin should be in contact with the metal of the
door frame or the metal door guide (after market). This may not be the case
depending on the accuracy of your location of the door latching mechanism
within the recessed box. In our case , it was not; hence we made new pins by
buying another appropriately typed and sized tube and slotting and drilling
one end and then installing the overly long pins. we retracted the pins and
test fit; then cut and beveled so that the retracted pin would just fit
inside the door frame. After several fittings, we were satisfied with the
fit. The retracted pins just fit inside the door frame and the extended
(closed) pins make full circumference contact with the complete hole in the
metal frame. Then after the doors are closed, before engine start, I feel
all four pin ends; before committing to flight they are felt again. I do not
use the light system because one builder who lost two doors, lost one of
them after installing the light system. I have suggested to Vans that the
pins should be supplied overly long by 1/2 inch and fitted by builder, but
have seen no change.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 5:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door design
>
> Hmm,
> There have been only 3 significant modifications from the factory.
> Only one of those areas modified was due to problems on more than one
> aircraft, and actually consisted of two modifications to the same
> area. (warning lights and extra latch)
> Your statement is a very broad brush allegation, with a small element
> of truth...yes, all aircraft accidents are due to pilot error as well.
> They shouldn't have challenged nature by attempting to fly in a man
> made machine.
>
> The fact that there have been at least a dozen door incidents is no
> coincidence, and very unlikely that there was significant builder
> error in that many aircraft. The fact that the door latching isn't
> that positive, requires significant care by the pilot to ensure
> adequate engagement is all evidence of poor design. No aircraft system
> should require extra special attention on every flight like the
> factory door design does.
> It is better that new builders be aware of the potential safety issue
> and the options available to reduce the risk than to tell them "just
> build it" like some would do. Better to spend a bit extra time and
> perhaps money on the doors than to have the airframe damaged, have to
> spend a whole lot more time fixing it, assuming losing a door doesn't
> precipitate a more serious accident. With awareness builders can make
> informed choices and ensure they don't suffer the same problems of
> those that led the way.
>
> Kelly
> 40866
> doors, etc.
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
> On Fri, Feb 11, 2011 at 10:56 PM, ddddsp1(at)juno.com
> wrote:
>
>>
>> This can be onew OPINION but it factually is NOT TRUE. I would be willing
>> to bet a large sum that ALL the incidents with the RV10 doors were either
>> Pilot error OR Builder error.
>>
>> I will leave it at that.................just wanted new RV10 builders
>> reading these post not to freak out and wonder what they must do
>> different
>> in the building process.
>>
>> DEAN
>>
>> 805HL 500 hours
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - Cirrus crash - perhaps having an open door fly off |
is
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Well, it might be a true statement that "ALL the incidents with the RV10 doors
were either Pilot error OR Builder error.", but I think the design of the doors
and the latching system make it way too easy to make these kinds of mistakes.
Aviation design history is full of these kinds of weak designs. They usually get
modified/re-engineered at some point.
Having built the airplane and now flown it 330 hours, I agree with the statement
that the doors and latching system are a real "weak link" on this airplane.
I love the airplane, but that's the way I see it.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330752#330752
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Lost doors & door warning-throttle system |
I've been reading the lost door posts and I am dismayed that there is
still no definitive solution. I have Van's door fix and have not
installed it. After I read the post from the guy who blew the door open
during run up with Vans door catch installed it seemed useless.
The key to safe doors is to be sure the pins are in the door frame holes
and long enough. I never liked Vans magnetic switches for sensing where
the pins are so I use micro switches. The micro switches are held in
place using a bracket attached to the screws above and below the pin
hole in the frame. It is designed so that each microswitch has to be
touched for the light to turn off-- that is each microswitch is capable
of turning the light on by itself. Any door misalignments with one pin
in and one pin out will still trigger the lights and horn. I recently
added a throttle position switch to turn on a horn if the throttle is
wide open and the door pins are not correctly aligned. The throttle
bracket is mounted to a bolt on top of the air cleaner box. The horn can
be defeated with a switch and the horn resets itself if the throttle is
retarded so the system rearms itself. My big problem is that my Bose
headsets are very good at canceling the horn noise. If any of you know
how to make a device that can make an obnoxious tone and send to it to
the audio panel I would like to hear about it. I borrowed heavily from
my Long-EZ's canopy-gear-throttle warning system for the design. It
uses the relays and lights that came with the kit and about $40 of Radio
Shack parts. I feel if the pins are in the correct position and deep
enough through the frame the doors are safe and this system tells you if
both conditions are met and gives a final warning before takeoff if they
are not met.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 239 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lost doors & door warning-throttle system |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
What do you mean no definitive solution? Sean's latch mechanism is basically an
ideal fix and is available as a retrofit... You can't do much better than that
for those that want a better system.
On Feb 12, 2011, at 10:31 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
> I've been reading the lost door posts and I am dismayed that there is still no
definitive solution. I have Van's door fix and have not installed it. After
I read the post from the guy who blew the door open during run up with Vans
door catch installed it seemed useless.
>
> The key to safe doors is to be sure the pins are in the door frame holes and
long enough. I never liked Vans magnetic switches for sensing where the pins
are so I use micro switches. The micro switches are held in place using a bracket
attached to the screws above and below the pin hole in the frame. It is designed
so that each microswitch has to be touched for the light to turn off--
that is each microswitch is capable of turning the light on by itself. Any door
misalignments with one pin in and one pin out will still trigger the lights
and horn. I recently added a throttle position switch to turn on a horn if the
throttle is wide open and the door pins are not correctly aligned. The throttle
bracket is mounted to a bolt on top of the air cleaner box. The horn can be
defeated with a switch and the horn resets itself if the throttle is retarded
so the system rearms itself. My big problem is that my Bose headsets are very
good at canceling the horn noise. If any of you know how to make a device
that can make an obnoxious tone and send to it to the audio panel I would like
to hear about it. I borrowed heavily from my Long-EZ's canopy-gear-throttle
warning system for the design. It uses the relays and lights that came with
the kit and about $40 of Radio Shack parts. I feel if the pins are in the correct
position and deep enough through the frame the doors are safe and this
system tells you if both conditions are met and gives a final warning before takeoff
if they are not met.
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 239 hrs
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lost doors & door warning-throttle system |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
It seems to me that an important part of Sean's upgrade are the longer racks, which
give a greater engagement depth.
This is such a simple mod that I do not understand why Van's hasn't changed the
plans to cut the racks longer and get a longer throw.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330789#330789
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List: Warning tone |
Sheldon,
Here are a couple tone generators. I'm sure that there are more. Then just
route to your intercom.
http://www.vx-aviation.com/page_2.html#AL-1A_more
http://www.gretzaero.com/Toneboard.html
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon
Olesen
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 11:54 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Warning tone
Hi Bob,
I designed a door-throttle warning system for my RV-10 that was heavily
influenced by the Long-EZ canopy-throttle-gear warning system. It has a
warning horn that goes off if the throttle is wide open and the door pins
are not in the correct position. My problem is my Bose headsets are very
good at canceling the horn noise. Is there a simple way to make a device to
add an obnoxious tone through the audio panel? A couple of inputs to the
device would also take care of the stall warning horn.
Thanks,
Sheldon Olesen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Warning tone |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Even easier - if your current horn is a speaker, and one side of the speaker is
grounded, just route a wire from the 'hot' side of the speaker to an unswitched
audio panel input.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330792#330792
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I was talking to a recently flying RV-10 pilot who just removed his top cowl
hinges along the firewall because of some blow back from the hinge opening.
Another RV-10 I just saw, the paint is starting to crack around the hinge
area.
I'm curious if any of the flying RV-10s that installed either the standard
hinges or camlocs wished they made a different decision?
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
I like my hinges. I do get some staining if I fly through rain, but got
that with cam-locs on other planes too.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 4:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Fasteners
I was talking to a recently flying RV-10 pilot who just removed his top cowl
hinges along the firewall because of some blow back from the hinge opening.
Another RV-10 I just saw, the paint is starting to crack around the hinge
area.
I'm curious if any of the flying RV-10s that installed either the standard
hinges or camlocs wished they made a different decision?
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
I have camlocs everywhere except the aft edge of the lower cowl. I
wish I'd put them there, too, more for the ease of operation and not
so much the sealing. I think most people end up going to screws for
the bottom near the exhaust pipes. I had to because the hinges kept
failing.
Also, behind the prop you pretty much have to use screws. Everything
else I've seen people try--hinges, camlocs, etc--always ends up too
loose.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 1:33 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> I was talking to a recently flying RV-10 pilot who just removed his top cowl
> hinges along the firewall because of some blow back from the hinge opening.
> Another RV-10 I just saw, the paint is starting to crack around the hinge
> area.
>
>
> Im curious if any of the flying RV-10s that installed either the standard
> hinges or camlocs wished they made a different decision?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Same here....I get some now in rain and did in my last plane with camloks to
o.
On Feb 12, 2011, at 4:01 PM, "gary" wrote:
> I like my hinges. I do get some staining if I fly through rain, but got t
hat with cam-locs on other planes too.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 4:34 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Fasteners
>
> I was talking to a recently flying RV-10 pilot who just removed his top co
wl hinges along the firewall because of some blow back from the hinge openin
g. Another RV-10 I just saw, the paint is starting to crack around the hing
e area.
>
> I=99m curious if any of the flying RV-10s that installed either the s
tandard hinges or camlocs wished they made a different decision?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lost doors & door warning-throttle system |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
With the retro kit from Sean the racks are not longer. Providing care is taken
to optimize the travel, penetration through the metal frame is not a problem.
One has to understand the concept and obtain full travel. The center latch in
Sean's kit is key to me. If the door is not pulled on properly, the center latch
hits the door sill bracket and rotation of the door handle cannot continue.
A little tug inward for the center latch to clear the top of the catch bracket.
The cam now catches the bracket and then the rotation can continue and the
pins will be lined up. So not only does the center cam latch help with pin line
up it also is an indicator that the pins are not lined up.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330815#330815
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Everywhere on the 10 where you have rivets in fiberglass, you should
consider laying a layer of glass or glass tape as these will work their
way through the paint in a hundred hours or so. The blinds holding the
top on and the solids holding the cowl hinges come to mind... How do I
know? I did this on every spot on the Glastar but one. I missed the 4
solids holding the oil door on. A hundred hours later the heads of the
rivets could be seen emerging through the paint.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 2:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Fasteners
I was talking to a recently flying RV-10 pilot who just removed his
top cowl hinges along the firewall because of some blow back from the
hinge opening. Another RV-10 I just saw, the paint is starting to crack
around the hinge area.
I'm curious if any of the flying RV-10s that installed either the
standard hinges or camlocs wished they made a different decision?
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Been through the archives and the Yahoo group. On the GRT EIS 6000 and the tach
from the Lightspeed III I have the wire run from pin 6 on the Lightspeed input
connector to the GRT EIS pin 12. The tach P/R is set to 3 and the sensitivity
to "H". Still have no tach indications. So, after reading the data in the previously
cited sources has anyone had any luck in pulling the resistor in the
EIS in getting any indications on the tach? Anything else worked for you?
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330832#330832
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oil pressure adjustment |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Hey Guys,
My oil pressure has been running a tad bit high. I wanted to adjust the pressure
down. Does anyone know which way (CW CCW) the adjustment screw should be turned
to lower the pressure? I could guess, but if I'm wrong, I have to pull
the cowling off again. Don't want to chip the new paint.
Thanks,
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330849#330849
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I used the SkyBolt camlocs on the RV10. They are great for fiberglass. They adjust
in or out to compensate for various thickness. I used these on the RV8.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330851#330851
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
I would recommend leaving it alone. Slightly high won't hurt anything.
It likely will come down as soon as warm weather returns.
On 2/12/2011 9:29 PM, greghale wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "greghale"
>
> Hey Guys,
> My oil pressure has been running a tad bit high. I wanted to adjust the pressure
down. Does anyone know which way (CW CCW) the adjustment screw should be
turned to lower the pressure? I could guess, but if I'm wrong, I have to pull
the cowling off again. Don't want to chip the new paint.
>
> Thanks,
> Greg...
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330849#330849
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
RV10-List: Re: Cowl Fasteners
I like my camlocks but would avoid placing them on the underside of the
cowl. Just too much shaking, oil, exhaust going on down there. Unless you
keep extras in the plane and in your hangar ($$) you will find yourself
missing one (or more) at some point. Just about the exact time you need to
fly some place. Often involves pulling everything off to replace.
I prefer Tinnerman washers & S/S screws. The best $0.05 solution
Ask me how I know=85
Robin
4 RV=92s & counting=85
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *greghale
*Sent:* Saturday, February 12, 2011 8:37 PM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: Re: Cowl Fasteners
I used the SkyBolt camlocs on the RV10. They are great for fiberglass.
They adjust in or out to compensate for various thickness. I used these on
the RV8.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330851#330851
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
I went around the tree a dozen times with Klaus on this exact issue back
when I had Lightspeed ignitions (2001 - 2009) . Klaus never responded other
than "your wiring is wrong". The problem was solved after talking with the
good folks at Grand Rapids. They can walk you through the simple mod to
get the Lightspeed pulse to work.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (620 hrs - now with dual pMags and very happy)
RV-10 (gear fiberglass - pressing to move to the paint booth this spring)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 9:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: EIS Tach
Been through the archives and the Yahoo group. On the GRT EIS 6000 and the
tach from the Lightspeed III I have the wire run from pin 6 on the
Lightspeed input connector to the GRT EIS pin 12. The tach P/R is set to 3
and the sensitivity to "H". Still have no tach indications. So, after
reading the data in the previously cited sources has anyone had any luck in
pulling the resistor in the EIS in getting any indications on the tach?
Anything else worked for you?
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330832#330832
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
My oil pressure has been running around 95psi since new. This is during the first
start of the day. After the engine has run for awhile, it will go down to
85 psi which is OK for me. I just want to lower it some. The AFS engine monitor
becomes a nuisance until the pressure drops below 95 which is where I have
the top limit set.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330876#330876
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
New 172s if I recall correctly have their redline for IO-360 set at 100
psi, and the pickoff is in a location that would give closer to 115 psi
in the old pickoff location. I'd say it would be a lot easier to just
reset your AFS limit to 100. Many planes will go over red line on first
takeoff of the day in cool/cold weather. Nothing to be concerned about
unless you start losing oil outside the engine. IMHO this falls under
don't fix what isn't broke.
Kelly
A&P/IA
On 2/13/2011 8:30 AM, greghale wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "greghale"
>
> My oil pressure has been running around 95psi since new. This is during the
first start of the day. After the engine has run for awhile, it will go down
to 85 psi which is OK for me. I just want to lower it some. The AFS engine monitor
becomes a nuisance until the pressure drops below 95 which is where I have
the top limit set.
>
> Greg...
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330876#330876
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
Hey Greg,
We had the same issue. As I remember, it is not a screw adjustment. The
way we adjusted the oil pressure on the IO 540 was to cut the safety wire
and unscrew the cap on the oil pressure gizmo on the copilot side of the
engine -- that reveals a steel ball and a pressure spring. On the opposite
end of the spring from the ball are a couple of washers used as spacers to
increase/decrease the tension on the spring -- which regulates the oil
pressure. We took one washer out, and all is well. At first, it doesn't
look like there are spacers down in there, but they are.
Sorry about the lack of technical jargon -- I can take a picture of it later
this PM if needed.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2011 10:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: oil pressure adjustment
>
> My oil pressure has been running around 95psi since new. This is during
> the first start of the day. After the engine has run for awhile, it will
> go down to 85 psi which is OK for me. I just want to lower it some. The
> AFS engine monitor becomes a nuisance until the pressure drops below 95
> which is where I have the top limit set.
>
> Greg...
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330876#330876
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
One more thought on high oil pressure. I heard of an oil cooler being blown out
due to too high oil pressure on another plane. I don't know how high that would
have to be, to be of concern, but I never would have thought of that at all.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330896#330896
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - Cirrus crash - perhaps having an open door fly |
off is n
I was never aware of this accident before but the NTSB report seems telling:
http://bit.ly/h7jB05
Preliminary review of recorded air traffic control tower radio
communications revealed that the pilot was cleared to take off on runway
07L. About 34 seconds later, the pilot transmitted to the tower
controller, "I need to return to close the door."
You can actually see the pilot side door opening at impact.
http://bit.ly/dK2yrC
A strong lesson indeed.
Bill
On 2/13/2011 4:30 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>
> A very tragic situation to say the least. However, I think the point was
> not that the doors are a poor design (although I agree they are having been
> a victim of the door latch mechanism), but rather to focus on what your
> priorities are if the door departs. Simply said fly the airplane first,
> worry about the door later. I don't know the details of the Cirrus accident
> but have not heard that the crash was due to structural damage making the
> airplane unflyable. Distraction is a constant enemy but especially when
> something that odd happens. The RV-10 flies just fine with the door missing
> so don't let it become something worse than it needs to be.
>
> Marcus
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Went ahead and ran it from the mag with the 27k resistor and put the pulses back
on 1.5. Ran it with no issues.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330950#330950
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Finally, it is my turn!!!!!! After getting the tach wired in to the mag N518RV
made it maiden flight. Put 2 hours on it today and it felt great. The controls
were very responsive and the aerosport power engine ran like a champ. Can't wait
until the break in period is over and I can really explore the flight characteristics.
Tomorrow I will work off some of the minor squaks and try to put
a couple more hours on it. Only 28 more to go.
Eric Kallio
N518RV Flying...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330951#330951
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Thanks everyone for the replies. I did find what I wanted on google. I adjusted
the pressure by turning the adjustment screw out CCW 1 turn. Pressure now
on takeoff 85 instead of the 95 I saw earlier. Alls well and the airplane is
flying great. The 14 inches of Oklahoma snow finally melted and the temperature
outside was 60 degrees.
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330953#330953
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EFDsteve(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
Please excuse my question, because my plane isn't flying yet so I just
don't have this experience, but my engine has a vernatherm, which is a required
replacement at overhaul and is supposed to vary the oil flow into the oil
cooler, based on the temperature of the oil. When I hear about an oil
cooler being "blown" because of high oil pressure, when the oil is cold, how
can that happen if there is a temperature compensated valve in the engine
limiting the flow to the oil cooler?
Thanks.
Steve Weinstock
40230, finishing kit
In a message dated 2/13/2011 11:54:55 A.M. Central Standard Time,
Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Probably when it's cold out:
http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Oil%20cooler%20heater.htm
An oil cooler should be able to handle normal situations fine...and
if you were talking high pressure because of no preheat, then
you're talking an extreme situation that wouldn't be fixed by
changing the setting a little lower.
I did run into one RV-10 pilot at one time who didn't calibrate
his oil pressure on the EIS, and never set the proper scale
factor and offset to make it read properly. It read high,
so he just adjusted the engine. Scary....once you set the
proper scale factor and offset, you'd probably find he
reduced it way too low.
So FIRST, verify the reading is all calibrated and set
right, then decide what to do. But, you're not going to
save an oil cooler from blowout due to routine normal
oil pressure extremes, unless it's a bad cooler.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 2/13/2011 10:58 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lew Gallagher"
>
> One more thought on high oil pressure. I heard of an oil cooler being
blown out due to too high oil pressure on another plane. I don't know how
high that would have to be, to be of concern, but I never would have thought
of that at all.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Fly off completed !
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330896#330896
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Answer to the last question is, I think, that the vernatherm never closes completely,
so the oil cooler sees full pressure even with low flow rates thru it.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330967#330967
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first |
Congratulations!!
On 2/13/2011 7:24 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio"
>
> Finally, it is my turn!!!!!! After getting the tach wired in to the mag N518RV
made it maiden flight. Put 2 hours on it today and it felt great. The controls
were very responsive and the aerosport power engine ran like a champ. Can't
wait until the break in period is over and I can really explore the flight characteristics.
Tomorrow I will work off some of the minor squaks and try to put
a couple more hours on it. Only 28 more to go.
>
> Eric Kallio
> N518RV Flying...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first |
Well done Eric.=0A=0AWishing you safe and smooth skies.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0AP
atrick Pulis=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Eric_Ka
llio =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, 14 Febru
ary, 2011 10:54:28 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Another first=0A=0A--> RV10-Lis
t message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" =0A=0AFinally, it is m
y turn!!!!!! After getting the tach wired in to the mag N518RV =0Amade it m
aiden flight. Put 2 hours on it today and it felt great. The controls =0Awe
re very responsive and the aerosport power engine ran like a champ. Can't w
ait =0Auntil the break in period is over and I can really explore the fligh
t =0Acharacteristics. Tomorrow I will work off some of the minor squaks and
try to =0Aput a couple more hours on it. Only 28 more to go.=0A=0AEric Kal
lio=0AN518RV Flying...=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp
://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330951#330951=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
===============0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
The vernatherm is wide open when cold, allowing oil to bypass the
cooler. It needs to fully close shutting off the bypass when the oil
reaches 180 degrees, forcing the oil through the cooler. IOW your
thinking about how it operates is backwards.
On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 7:07 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Answer to the last question is, I think, that the vernatherm never closes completely,
so the oil cooler sees full pressure even with low flow rates thru it.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330967#330967
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another first |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Yup, 30 hours. Don't know what drove that decision and didn't push it. I also have
a test flight area that averages nearly 95 miles on each side.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330978#330978
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
| Subject: | Picture of remote engine heat switch |
Got my remote engine heat switch set up, as seen in this photo.
All the parts are in an old plastic tool box I had around.
On the left is the circuit board of the Velleman remote switch kit. It use
s a photocell pointed at the cheap pre-paid TracFone next to it. When I ca
ll the cell twice within one minute and the photocell detects the phone scr
een lighting up when those calls arrive, it trips the relay supplying power
to the Reiff pre-heater.
Power comes in on the green extension cord, which I tapped into for phone c
harger power, detector circuit power, and then to feed the relay. Power to
the pre-heater continues out the green cord to the right.
Works well at home - now to take it to the hangar!
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks)
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
DQoNCg0KVGltIERhd3Nvbi1Ub3duc2VuZA0KNjE3LTQxNy04MzQxDQo2MTctOTA1LTQ4MDANCjYx
Ny01MDAtNDgxMg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another first |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Congratulations Eric!
How are your temps? I'm very curious to know cause i got the same James cowl setup.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331015#331015
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil pressure adjustment |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Thanks for the info, Kelly. I tend to think backwards anyway!
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331044#331044
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another first |
| From: | "civengpe" <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
Eric,
Did you get any indication why you got the 30 hour fly off? I am just beginning
my project and am still learning the ins and outs of the process.
Do you have a certified engine and prop?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331069#331069
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another first |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
As for what drove the 30 hour fly-off I have no idea. I didn't press the issue.
I have an Aerosport Power IO-540 with a new Hartzell prop. The only comment I
got was even though the engine is a clone of a certified engine it was made to
higher tolerances than the Lycoming factory and the IO-540 and the prop are
a certified combination. Can't offer more than that.
Temps: I have 5.0 on the engine right now and have done nothing other than fly
around on the engine break in. First flight at 3000 PA and 54 degrees OAT my CHTs
ranged from 390 to 420. Today by the end of the flight at the same altitude
and 10 degrees warmer outside my CHTs were down to 378 to 414. Of course cylinders
5 and 6 are the hottest cylinders. My oil temps were steady at 192 degrees
and 78 PSI. I have the oil cooler attached to the aft engine baffle as opposed
to the firewall and scat tubing. The Sam James cowl is certainly not airtight
as I have it installed. Now that it seems my temps are coming down after
break-in I figure I have about 3 or 4 more hours before beginning to really seal
up the plenum to control cooling.
I am waiting for my superstar ground and flight support guy to put together and
post the pics and video. When I have the link I will post it. I was so fortunate
that when he filmed the first landing it was pretty. Not the same story today.
Fortunately no one was watching today.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331091#331091
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Crow Harnesses |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Before I call Crow, what about the other systems (Hooker and the standard
Van's ones)? Where is the "Y" in relation to the headrest and mount on the
canopy? Halfway between? Closer to the seat? What do people prefer?
-Rob
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 7:13 PM, Jae Chang wrote:
>
> Let us know what they say. Ordering the same harnesses is near the top of
> my todo list.
>
> Jae
> 40533
>
>
> On 2/7/2011 6:01 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>
>> Thanks, guys... I'm having second thoughts with my "good enough"
>> assessment from the other day. The belts feel fine, but it seems like the
>> geometry is off, with the shoulder straps essentially coming from the
>> top-center of the headrest. I think I'm going to call and have them re-make
>> the front seat shoulder straps. There's also *way* too much extra strap
>> (around 3 feet) when I have them adjusted, so something is clearly not
>> right. Maybe when I said "RV-10" they assumed all RVs are the same? Not
>> really sure what's going on, but this is something that needs to be done
>> right.
>> DAR inspection in 13 days. Not exactly what I want to be messing with
>> now...
>> -Rob
>>
>>
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I was wondering if anyone has ran across a list of parameters for the RV-10 with
the standard IO-540 engine. I want to setup my EFIS parameters tomorrow for
all the speeds, temps, rpms, etc.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331192#331192
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Bullets |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I finally got around to respond to this. From selling pins and guides and setting
up a bunch of doors and talking to customers I have learned a lot about the
doors. Two of my customers had pushrod tubes from Vans that were extruded with
oversized I.D.s which would not hold the 5/16-24 thread. It is important
to make sure the threads engage well enough to hold the pins in place. Loc-tite
is great after finishing the pin installation. I sell both styles of pins,
angled and bullet. My pins are hollow with long 5/16-24 set screws and allow
the builder to epoxy vans' magnets inside the pins. They work great that way
and don't need further adjustment for the proximity switches. They also work
good because they are not open at the end to catch on anything . Mechanical
micro switches work with these too of course.
I do believe Vans had the good idea of having an angle on the end to pull the pins
to the guides. If you think about it, the angled pins have 7/16 of error
to pull the door into the guides where the bullet pins have only 7/32. I try
to talk my customers that have the 180 handles to use the stainless angled pins
and Delrin guides. They really work well together. I only sell the aluminum
guides with bullet pins because the stainless angled pins will catch on the
aluminum where the bullet pins slide through easier. The only time I suggest
the angled pins is on 180 kits when the length of penetration into the the cabin
structure is sufficient. 90 degrees only gives you about 1 inch of pin extension.
Vans' setup is about 110 degrees and give the pins about 1-1/4 of extension.
180 gives the pins 2 inches of travel or with the planearound latch
it gives you 30-60 degrees of the cam pulling in the door and the rest to pin
extension (1-1/4 to 1-5/8 inches of travel).
Some things to think about - anyone starting out with the door should NOT cut the
Vans' rack gears per the instructions. You should cut them in half leaving
five inches for the upper and lower pieces. Even if you don't want the extra
travel, it is there if you ever want it. Cutting them short per Vans' instructions
limits the travel of the handle from the blind rivet in the gear rack or
the end of the gear rack hitting the Vans' gearbox. If you don't want the full
180 degrees you could drill the rack gear and push a roll pin in it to stop
the rotation if you desired. The gear racks are EXPENSIVE and add 80 bucks
to the retro fit 180 just because plans tell you to cut them short.
I encourage any questions about the door, door pins, door guides, latches etc.
even if your not interested in anything I sell. I truly want builders to have
the info for their project no matter what they are doing. The doors are the
achilles heel of the RV-10. I'm not saying they don't work, they just require
attention. The plane is absolutely awesome overall, this is just the weakest
link.
801-580-3737
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331194#331194
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
I have 2000 plus hours on my RV8 with the Skybolt cam lock fasteners and a
Sam James Cowl.and ;plenum. There is nothing better. Cowl can be removed
and reinstalled in 2 to 3 minutes. Nothing comes loose and no ratteling.
I
never hesitate to remove and check engine etc. because of the ease of
removing and reinstalling.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 3:33 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> I was talking to a recently flying RV-10 pilot who just removed his top
> cowl hinges along the firewall because of some blow back from the hinge
> opening. Another RV-10 I just saw, the paint is starting to crack around
> the hinge area.
>
>
> I=92m curious if any of the flying RV-10s that installed either the stand
ard
> hinges or camlocs wished they made a different decision?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
Engine-Check out the Lycoming operators manual
Airspeeds- Check out the speeds provided by Vans in the Finish kit.
To get you started on Engine.
Tachometer Normal operating range. Green Arc 500/2700 rpm
Red Line (Max Continuous Power) 2700 rpm
Oil Temperature Green Arc Normal range 75 to 220 deg F
Red line Max 245 deg F
Oil Pressure Normal range 55 to 90psi
Start and warm up 115psi
Minimum (idle) 25 psi
Max 95 psi
Fuel Pressure Normal range 14 to 45 psi
Minimum 14 psi
Maximum 45 psi
Cylinder Head Temperature
Maximum Cruise 435 Deg F
Maximum engine life 400 F and below
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 8:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: parameters
I was wondering if anyone has ran across a list of parameters for the RV-10
with the standard IO-540 engine. I want to setup my EFIS parameters
tomorrow for all the speeds, temps, rpms, etc.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331192#331192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Here's a spreadsheet with settings from my AFS engine monitor. It's a
little hard to read at first but you'll get the idea.
These aren't the strict limits set by Lycoming. I've massaged them a
bit after living with the plane for a while. For example, if you set
the RPM limit at 2700, you'll get a nuisance warning at 2710 so I
bumped that up a bit.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Feb 15, 2011 at 8:20 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I was wondering if anyone has ran across a list of parameters for the RV-
10 with the standard IO-540 engine. =C2-I want to setup my EFIS parameter
s tomorrow for all the speeds, temps, rpms, etc.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331192#331192
>
>
===========
===========
RUMS -
===========
ite -
- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's annual.
I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't
pretty. I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open
loop" eye bolt and grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in
December 2008. I think that event may have led to the crack.
I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the
panels off at the elevator bellcrank.
At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a
minor wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now
definitely a crack. When I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone
and was able to feel the area with my fingernail. After first
noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely at every
inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've
been working as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not
convince myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by
shining a bright light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in
from behind with a boroscope. After disassembly I centerpunched the
outboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead and the crack really jumped
out. Before that, even with the top plate removed and having complete
access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively call it a crack.
The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make
is to completely remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet
heads and it makes working in the area a lot easier since you can
drive the tails out of F-1010A on the bench instead of with it
attached to the bulkhead.
In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as
reasons to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened
slowly, not suddenly, so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to
catch the problem. You can see the area through the elevator
bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection shouldn't add
more than few minutes to a preflight.
Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were
definitely no cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely
different.
I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total
time to complete the repair.
Fly safe,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
Dave,thanks for a well documented and useful post,my understanding is you d
id not do the service bulletin,If that is the case I have an extra set of t
he doublers I will send you-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Feb 16, 2011 11:15 am
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's an
nual.
I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
owever, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't
retty. I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open
oop" eye bolt and grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in
December 2008. I think that event may have led to the crack.
I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the
anels off at the elevator bellcrank.
At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a
inor wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now
efinitely a crack. When I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone
nd was able to feel the area with my fingernail. After first
oticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely at every
nspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
his year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've
een working as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
ven with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not
onvince myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by
hining a bright light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in
rom behind with a boroscope. After disassembly I centerpunched the
utboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead and the crack really jumped
ut. Before that, even with the top plate removed and having complete
ccess to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively call it a crack.
The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make
s to completely remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet
eads and it makes working in the area a lot easier since you can
rive the tails out of F-1010A on the bench instead of with it
ttached to the bulkhead.
In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as
easons to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened
lowly, not suddenly, so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to
atch the problem. You can see the area through the elevator
ellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection shouldn't add
ore than few minutes to a preflight.
Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were
efinitely no cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely
ifferent.
I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total
ime to complete the repair.
Fly safe,
Dave Saylor
irCrafters
40 Aviation Way
atsonville, CA 95076
31-722-9141 Shop
31-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
Excellent, Dave! I'm sure I speak for everyone on this in thanking you for
your detailed presentation of this problem.
Jack Phillips
#40610 - building ailerons today
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 1:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's
annual.
I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't
pretty. I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open
loop" eye bolt and grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in
December 2008. I think that event may have led to the crack.
I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the
panels off at the elevator bellcrank.
At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a
minor wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now
definitely a crack. When I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone
and was able to feel the area with my fingernail. After first
noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely at every
inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've
been working as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not
convince myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by
shining a bright light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in
from behind with a boroscope. After disassembly I centerpunched the
outboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead and the crack really jumped
out. Before that, even with the top plate removed and having complete
access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively call it a crack.
The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make
is to completely remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet
heads and it makes working in the area a lot easier since you can
drive the tails out of F-1010A on the bench instead of with it
attached to the bulkhead.
In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as
reasons to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened
slowly, not suddenly, so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to
catch the problem. You can see the area through the elevator
bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection shouldn't add
more than few minutes to a preflight.
Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were
definitely no cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely
different.
I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total
time to complete the repair.
Fly safe,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
Dave
I to have a extra set of doublers if you need them. Just shoot me a e-mail and
I will get them in the mail to you
Wings rear spar scuffing and primering once the rain stops
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 10:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's annual.
I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't pretty.
I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open loop" eye bolt and grind
half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in December 2008. I think that
event may have led to the crack.
I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the panels off
at the elevator bellcrank.
At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a minor wave
in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now definitely a crack. When
I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone and was able to feel the area with
my fingernail. After first noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely
at every inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've been working
as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not convince myself
that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by shining a bright
light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in from behind with a boroscope.
After disassembly I centerpunched the outboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead
and the crack really jumped out. Before that, even with the top plate
removed and having complete access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively
call it a crack.
The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make is to completely
remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet heads and it makes
working in the area a lot easier since you can drive the tails out of F-1010A
on the bench instead of with it attached to the bulkhead.
In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as reasons to
add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened slowly, not suddenly, so
the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to catch the problem. You can see the
area through the elevator bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection
shouldn't add more than few minutes to a preflight.
Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were definitely no
cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely different.
I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total time to complete
the repair.
Fly safe,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
Thanks guys, I have the set that went out with the SB.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 12:42 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Dave
>
> I to have a extra set of doublers if you need them. Just shoot me a e-mail and
I will get them in the mail to you
>
> Wings rear spar scuffing and primering once the rain stops
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
>
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94534
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
> Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 10:19 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
>
> I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's annual.
>
> I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
> I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
> However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't pretty.
I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open loop" eye bolt and
grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in December 2008. I think that
event may have led to the crack.
>
> I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the panels
off at the elevator bellcrank.
>
> At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a minor
wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now definitely a crack. When
I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone and was able to feel the area with
my fingernail. After first noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely
at every inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
> This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've been working
as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
> Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not convince
myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by shining a bright
light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in from behind with a boroscope.
After disassembly I centerpunched the outboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead
and the crack really jumped out. Before that, even with the top plate removed
and having complete access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively
call it a crack.
>
> The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make is to completely
remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet heads and it makes
working in the area a lot easier since you can drive the tails out of F-1010A
on the bench instead of with it attached to the bulkhead.
>
> In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as reasons
to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened slowly, not suddenly,
so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to catch the problem. You can see the
area through the elevator bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection
shouldn't add more than few minutes to a preflight.
>
> Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were definitely no
cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely different.
>
> I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total time to complete
the repair.
>
> Fly safe,
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
Well, I guess that proves that the S.B. was a valid one
and should be done. I know lots of people were
doubtful, but now that there is another case it's clear
that it's a good idea to do. It was a 1 day job to do
the whole thing, so in the big scheme of things it
wasn't too bad.
Tim
On 2/16/2011 12:19 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's annual.
>
> I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
> I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
> However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't
> pretty. I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open
> loop" eye bolt and grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in
> December 2008. I think that event may have led to the crack.
>
> I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the
> panels off at the elevator bellcrank.
>
> At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a
> minor wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now
> definitely a crack. When I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone
> and was able to feel the area with my fingernail. After first
> noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely at every
> inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
> This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've
> been working as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
> Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not
> convince myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by
> shining a bright light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in
> from behind with a boroscope. After disassembly I centerpunched the
> outboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead and the crack really jumped
> out. Before that, even with the top plate removed and having complete
> access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively call it a crack.
>
> The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make
> is to completely remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet
> heads and it makes working in the area a lot easier since you can
> drive the tails out of F-1010A on the bench instead of with it
> attached to the bulkhead.
>
> In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as
> reasons to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened
> slowly, not suddenly, so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to
> catch the problem. You can see the area through the elevator
> bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection shouldn't add
> more than few minutes to a preflight.
>
> Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were
> definitely no cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely
> different.
>
> I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total
> time to complete the repair.
>
> Fly safe,
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
Has anyone found cracks without a tail strike or heavy turbulence? At this
point we seem to have two instances of crack. Are there others?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
>
> Excellent, Dave! I'm sure I speak for everyone on this in thanking you
> for
> your detailed presentation of this problem.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610 - building ailerons today
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
> Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 1:19 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
>
> I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's
> annual.
>
> I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
> I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
> However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't
> pretty. I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open
> loop" eye bolt and grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in
> December 2008. I think that event may have led to the crack.
>
> I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the
> panels off at the elevator bellcrank.
>
> At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a
> minor wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now
> definitely a crack. When I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone
> and was able to feel the area with my fingernail. After first
> noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely at every
> inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
> This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've
> been working as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
> Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not
> convince myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by
> shining a bright light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in
> from behind with a boroscope. After disassembly I centerpunched the
> outboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead and the crack really jumped
> out. Before that, even with the top plate removed and having complete
> access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively call it a crack.
>
> The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make
> is to completely remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet
> heads and it makes working in the area a lot easier since you can
> drive the tails out of F-1010A on the bench instead of with it
> attached to the bulkhead.
>
> In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as
> reasons to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened
> slowly, not suddenly, so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to
> catch the problem. You can see the area through the elevator
> bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection shouldn't add
> more than few minutes to a preflight.
>
> Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were
> definitely no cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely
> different.
>
> I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total
> time to complete the repair.
>
> Fly safe,
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
Dave
Not a problem.
Have fun. Saratoga annual starts tonight so no RV building for a while.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
-->
Thanks guys, I have the set that went out with the SB.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 12:42 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Dave
>
> I to have a extra set of doublers if you need them. Just shoot me a
> e-mail and I will get them in the mail to you
>
> Wings rear spar scuffing and primering once the rain stops
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
>
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94534
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
> Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 10:19 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
>
> I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's annual.
>
> I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
> I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
> However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't pretty.
I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open loop" eye bolt and
grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in December 2008. I think
that event may have led to the crack.
>
> I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the panels
off at the elevator bellcrank.
>
> At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a minor
wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now definitely a crack. When
I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone and was able to feel the area
with my fingernail. After first noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely
at every inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
> This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've been working
as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
> Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not convince
myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by shining a bright
light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in from behind with a boroscope.
After disassembly I centerpunched the outboard rivet at the top of the
bulkhead and the crack really jumped out. Before that, even with the top plate
removed and having complete access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively
call it a crack.
>
> The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make is to completely
remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet heads and it makes
working in the area a lot easier since you can drive the tails out of F-1010A
on the bench instead of with it attached to the bulkhead.
>
> In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as reasons
to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened slowly, not suddenly,
so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to catch the problem. You can see the
area through the elevator bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection
shouldn't add more than few minutes to a preflight.
>
> Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were definitely no
cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely different.
>
> I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total time to complete
the repair.
>
> Fly safe,
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
I purchased my RV-10 a year ago. It was built in 2008-2009. The builder is no longer
alive. How can I
tell if the sb was complied with? What should I be looking for.
Nothing in the logs that I can find.
Alan
N668g
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 16, 2011, at 11:19 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's annual.
>
> I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
> I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
> However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't
> pretty. I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open
> loop" eye bolt and grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in
> December 2008. I think that event may have led to the crack.
>
> I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the
> panels off at the elevator bellcrank.
>
> At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a
> minor wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now
> definitely a crack. When I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone
> and was able to feel the area with my fingernail. After first
> noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely at every
> inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
> This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've
> been working as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
> Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not
> convince myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by
> shining a bright light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in
> from behind with a boroscope. After disassembly I centerpunched the
> outboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead and the crack really jumped
> out. Before that, even with the top plate removed and having complete
> access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively call it a crack.
>
> The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make
> is to completely remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet
> heads and it makes working in the area a lot easier since you can
> drive the tails out of F-1010A on the bench instead of with it
> attached to the bulkhead.
>
> In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as
> reasons to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened
> slowly, not suddenly, so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to
> catch the problem. You can see the area through the elevator
> bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection shouldn't add
> more than few minutes to a preflight.
>
> Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were
> definitely no cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely
> different.
>
> I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total
> time to complete the repair.
>
> Fly safe,
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> <4 Crack after centerpunching rivet for drilling.jpg>
> <1 Bright backlight viewed with boroscope--with frontlight.jpg>
> <2 Bright backlight viewed with boroscope--no frontlight.jpg>
> <3 Ready for repair.jpg>
> <5 F-1010A removed to punch out rivet tails.jpg>
> <6 Stop drilled--note crack ends above F-1010A, not visible from fwd side.jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)EARTHLINK.NET> |
> How can I
> tell if the sb was complied with? What should I be looking for.
Have a look at http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb08-6-1.pdf. That is the
specific bulletin - it details the change and how to spot it.
FYI - for any service bulletins related to vans aircraft, you can find
them here -> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices.htm.
-ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
There should be a logbook endorsement,if not your mechanic can inspect it f
rom the pictures and instructions on Vans website.The inspection is easy th
e fix is somewhat more involved,it took me a couple weekends but I work slo
w-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Sent: Wed, Feb 16, 2011 3:10 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1
I purchased my RV-10 a year ago. It was built in 2008-2009. The builder is
no
onger alive. How can I
ell if the sb was complied with? What should I be looking for.
othing in the logs that I can find.
lan
668g
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 16, 2011, at 11:19 AM, Dave Saylor
rote:
> I found a crack in my tailcone as described by the SB during this year's
nnual.
I've got 775 hours on the Hobbs. It's been flying for 3 1/2 years.
I've only done stalls a couple times, i.e., Phase 1 and BFRs.
However, the first time I landed with a significantly aft CG it wasn't
pretty. I banged the tail tie-down hard enough to bend the "open
loop" eye bolt and grind half an inch off the rudder cap. That was in
December 2008. I think that event may have led to the crack.
I've been checking it visually at every annual and whenever I have the
panels off at the elevator bellcrank.
At some point during the previous inspections I saw what looked like a
minor wave in the bulkhead and a fine line where there is now
definitely a crack. When I first saw it, I crawled into the tailcone
and was able to feel the area with my fingernail. After first
noticing the "fine line", I watched it very closely at every
inspection. I never noted any change over the next two inspections.
This year it looked more pronounced so I looked even closer. I've
been working as an IA for 20+ years and I've seen a lot of cracks.
Even with my hand on it and solid boroscope inspections, I could not
convince myself that the mark was a crack. We finally confirmed it by
shining a bright light from the front of the bulkhead and looking in
from behind with a boroscope. After disassembly I centerpunched the
outboard rivet at the top of the bulkhead and the crack really jumped
out. Before that, even with the top plate removed and having complete
access to the bulkhead, it was hard to definitively call it a crack.
The repair is pretty straight-forward. The only comment I would make
is to completely remove F-1010A in Step 9. It's only three more rivet
heads and it makes working in the area a lot easier since you can
drive the tails out of F-1010A on the bench instead of with it
attached to the bulkhead.
In the future I plan to treat any warping or marks on the bulkhead as
reasons to add the doublers. The damage seems to have happened
slowly, not suddenly, so the 25 hour inspections seem adequate to
catch the problem. You can see the area through the elevator
bellcrank covers with a bright light, so the inspection shouldn't add
more than few minutes to a preflight.
Last week we inspected another -10 for a customer and there were
definitely no cracks, lines, warping, etc. It just looked completely
different.
I'll post another picture with the doublers installed and the total
time to complete the repair.
Fly safe,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
<4 Crack after centerpunching rivet for drilling.jpg>
<1 Bright backlight viewed with boroscope--with frontlight.jpg>
<2 Bright backlight viewed with boroscope--no frontlight.jpg>
<3 Ready for repair.jpg>
<5 F-1010A removed to punch out rivet tails.jpg>
<6 Stop drilled--note crack ends above F-1010A, not visible from fwd side.
jpg>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
> There should be a logbook endorsement,....
Only if was installed after receiving his airworthiness certificate. Since it
was built in 2008, like with my project, it could have been installed during the
build so there wouldn't be a logbook entry in that case.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331323#331323
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
Probably a good suggestion to all of us that are not yet
completed....put mention of SBs complied with in the initial logbook
entry, as a point of reference for any subsequent owner, or heaven
forbid, any accident investigation. Much as I dislike it, whether for
certified or homebuilt, logbooks are there to protect our backsides, and
to make our lives easier when we need to verify something that our
brains have blotted out.
On 2/17/2011 5:29 AM, tsts4 wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "tsts4"
>
>
>> There should be a logbook endorsement,....
>
> Only if was installed after receiving his airworthiness certificate. Since it
was built in 2008, like with my project, it could have been installed during
the build so there wouldn't be a logbook entry in that case.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331323#331323
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
I'm looking for a camera installation for my RV-10. I've used a hand-held
video camera but really would like a camera mounted on the VS and a recorder
in the cockpit. Shooting from inside the cabin shows up the prop in straight
ahead shot so I'm thinking raising the camera would help. I've seen video on
Utube that was taken from the VS. Anyone have experience or sources?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Video |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
GoPro cameras are great for that type of thing. They also have tons of different
mounts for them. Most "stunt videos" you see on YouTube are probably GoPro
cameras.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 18, 2011, at 11:49 AM, Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a camera installation for my RV-10. I've used a hand-held
> video camera but really would like a camera mounted on the VS and a recorder
> in the cockpit. Shooting from inside the cabin shows up the prop in straight
> ahead shot so I'm thinking raising the camera would help. I've seen video on
> Utube that was taken from the VS. Anyone have experience or sources?
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Video |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I like the Contour series.... The Contour GPS has a built in GPS so it shows the
ground track in Google maps along with the video..... Small package, very
well built...
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 18, 2011, at 12:10 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> GoPro cameras are great for that type of thing. They also have tons of different
mounts for them. Most "stunt videos" you see on YouTube are probably GoPro
cameras.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Feb 18, 2011, at 11:49 AM, Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm looking for a camera installation for my RV-10. I've used a hand-held
>> video camera but really would like a camera mounted on the VS and a recorder
>> in the cockpit. Shooting from inside the cabin shows up the prop in straight
>> ahead shot so I'm thinking raising the camera would help. I've seen video on
>> Utube that was taken from the VS. Anyone have experience or sources?
>> Albert Gardner
>> N991RV
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Albert,
I have placed a 3 camera (can add a 4th) video recording system
in my 8A. One on the VS, one on the belly pointing aft and one in the
cockpit to film both Pilot & squirming Passenger. The cameras are all 520
Line or greater bullet cameras with the choice of different lenses (~$100
each on eBay). The end result is a good looking image from multiple angles.
The down side is the video is not HD. I was unable to find a small,
reasonably priced *remote* DVR that recorded HD video so I decided to go
with standard def and supplement it with something like GoProHD
http://gopro.com or the ContourHD camera http://contour.com/ internally
mounted. See Note at the end of this email.
I have a feeling that 5 years for now there will be many
different choices but unfortunately your plane will be painted & flying for
some time by then. Below are a couple of photos of the install. You can see
in one photo the shot from the tail on the display screen. I can switch
which camera is being recorded with the knob to the left of the display.
I think this system will work out nicely but is not the ideal
hardware for the task. I did see some cool stuff out there but it was many
thousands of dollars so I decided to go low-def for now. FYI I always carry
two additional cameras. One is an HD Video camera called the Sony
Bloggie<http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?
catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=8198552921644696
004&XID=O:sony%20bloggie:dg_bloggie_gglsrch:Blo_Blo_nopromo#/model8gbCont
ent>MHS-TS20
. It is a pretty amazing HD unit for the price with a 3=94 screen. I
paid $120.00 for the camera. Takes pretty good still photos too.
Occasionally I mount it with a suction RAM mount. This is a video taken wit
h
the prior version of the Bloggie called the Webbie. *Note: you should watch
this in 1080p mode*. This was a test video in low light conditions. I was
learning the focal length of the camera.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aJt4_Chswo&hd=1
Here is a New Years flight video. Suggest you view full screen & 720p. Agai
n
taken with the older Webbie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR2i9EQRZ50&h
d=1
I have to say the videos from the Contour & GoProHD are much
better than the Sony Bloggie for action video. Also my 14 Mp camera with
1080P video does a surprisingly good job of HD video. Sorry no examples.
Good luck,
Robin
Note:
I believe the best HD video recording system will probably be a PC with an
HD video card. Record to a HD or SSHD then transfer content to thumb drive
or transfer via wireless / Bluetooth. There are several cards on the market
that accept independent video 4 inputs. This may also be the cheapest way t
o
film multiple HD videos. Unfortunately at this time the cards insert into
=93tower=94 style computers. Not something I wanted to add to the airplane.
The
early adopters curse=85.
DVR on top with removable memory card. Rotary camera selector.
[image: DVR 001(2).jpg]
View point shows full flaps plus cockpit, prop etc=85
[image: DVR 001(3).jpg]
Rear facing belly camera. Should look good with the smoke on!
[image: Belly cam, naca scoops 002.jpg]
Tail camera
[image: Tail camera 007.jpg]
Dash Cam. Yes=85 Chrome Roll Bars J
[image: Dash cam, windscreen 001.jpg]
Can=92t show you all these photos w/o showing the panel J
[image: New cam 006.jpg]
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2011 8:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Video
I'm looking for a camera installation for my RV-10. I've used a hand-held
video camera but really would like a camera mounted on the VS and a recorde
r
in the cockpit. Shooting from inside the cabin shows up the prop in straigh
t
ahead shot so I'm thinking raising the camera would help. I've seen video o
n
Utube that was taken from the VS. Anyone have experience or sources?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage floor angles |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I had a big scare with those 1023B's.
I was rooting around my parts drawers and found the virgin parts still covered
in vinyl. I searched the part number which led me to this thread. I panicked
thinking I hadn't installed them and they are covered by other panels so they
can't be seen. Fortunately I found pix in my log showing them installed. Van's
must have sent me extra copies of the parts.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331433#331433
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage floor angles |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
That is better than Bonanzacrafters non-existent quality control. I
was working on the pieces that attach the wing root fairings, and
found the nut plates for the bottom fairing were installed without the
screw holes getting any dimpling. Guess I will need to drill out those
rivets, dimple and re-rivet the nutplates back on. Then I went to do
the forward tank support brackets, that attach with a couple AN3-5A
bolts into the fuselage side. Natcherly, the nutplates were installed,
but the bolt holes never finish drilled, so had to drill them
carefully to not burr the nut plates, and will have to live with no
de-burr of the inner side of the holes. Just sloppy work. Oh, and if
the brackets ever had a part label, it was long gone, so had to
identify by shape, size and hole locations. Little things that make
building so educational and recreational. ;-)
On Fri, Feb 18, 2011 at 11:23 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> I had a big scare with those 1023B's.
> I was rooting around my parts drawers and found the virgin parts still covered
in vinyl. I searched the part number which led me to this thread. I panicked
thinking I hadn't installed them and they are covered by other panels so they
can't be seen. Fortunately I found pix in my log showing them installed. Van's
must have sent me extra copies of the parts.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331433#331433
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage floor angles |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Kinda glad I did not have the money for the qb now. I have heard of many things
that had to be taken apart and redone by other builders too. I spent 9 weeks/205
hours getting to the qb stage. Glad you have the patience to deal with it.
Working on the cabin top now. Take care.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 43 Cabin Cover
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331472#331472
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Pipe Temps |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Don,
I never saw a reply on your question re exhaust pipe temp, so today I aimed an
infrared sensor at the exhaust pipes just as they clear the cowling. 250 F and
it's 65 outside. He had just landed and I took it as he stopped after taxi
with the engine still running. The numbers bounced around a bit (wind?) but 250
seemed about average.
I'm curious what you'll do with this number? If it's about protecting the fiberglass
from heat, I've thought of using the same type of heat shield that is on
motorcycle headers -- a strap clamp around the pipe that holds a metal shield
off with an air gap in between. But if the adhesive reflective tape works just
as well, that may do the trick.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331546#331546
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <GENGRUMPY(at)aol.com> |
Matt, can you help Dave?
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
> Date: February 19, 2011 5:09:37 PM CST
> To: "Miller John"
> Subject: Re: q.com
>
> convey to the matronics list, if possible, that q.com is a valid
domain. also that dlm34077(at)q.com is a valid FROM address as well as a
valid TO address. I still receive the list messages; I just can not
reply; I receive a message rejection from the list.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Miller John
> To: DLM
> Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2011 4:00 PM
> Subject: Re: q.com
>
> What do you need me to do??
>
> On Feb 19, 2011, at 4:33 PM, DLM wrote:
>
>> the list has implemented something that treats my dlm34077(at)q.com as
spam. the q.com domain is valid for Qwest DSL. Since I can not send to
them perhaps you could pass this message to a person there.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Video |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I mounted the POV 1.5 camera on my rv10's tail. The tail height aims the camera
over the top of the cabin. The prop strobe effect is at the bottom of the video
frame. The cord to the camera contains the video and power. The system
comes complete with a hand held DVR that has a screen on it so you can test or
aim it. The DVR has AA batteries that also supply power to the camera. The
video is recorded on a 4 or 8 GB SD card in the DVR. The camera also comes with
editing software. Amazon has a complete system at
http://www.amazon.com/VIO-POV-1-5-Video-System/dp/B001TALUFY
The camera installation shown on my web site is an older camera that did not work
very well. I adapted the camera installation to mount the smaller POV camera.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331593#331593
________________________________________________________________________________
test message
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List: |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
5X5
On Sun, Feb 20, 2011 at 2:52 AM, wrote:
>
> test message
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I have Skybolt Camlocks on the back of the upper cowl. I use the hinge/skewer system
to join the upper and lower cowls and plain old #10 SS Screws and nutplates
on the back of the lower cowl. It all seems to work well and seems to be holding
up fine.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331686#331686
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dremel tool - recommendation - and anecdote |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
About 3-4 years ago I bought the Dremel Cordless 10.8V lithium-ion batter powered
tool. It has proved to be an invaluable tool in building the RV10 and in doing
routine work and maintenance. Anyway - the charger was dropped or went south
and I needed a new charging stand. The fine folks at Dremel Service in Palm
Springs CA agreed to sell me a new charger for $28. I called and they said that
it was ok to come by and pick it up. I did and was surprised to meet Mrs Dremel
herself. She and son Rob Dremel run the place and have a great little mini-museum
on site showing the history of this gem of a tool system. A very cool
piece of Americana. The family sold out to Emerson Electric years ago and it
is now owned by Bosch, but they keep the family connection. Dremel has a new
12V Lithium-Ion powered tool which might be even better than my 10.8V system.
The Lithium-Ion stuff is light and the batteries have great hang time.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331687#331687
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I finally got around to fixing my flaps. I found it was in the Show planes
flap positioning system. Apparently my jack screw rod end bearing- could
turn enough to wear on the micro switches. I took off the system from the j
ack screw and flaps work just fine so I called and sent the position system
back to show planes and they went through it and replaced the micro switch
es and sent some counter sunk washers to put in and that seems to have fixe
d the problems.
--- On Tue, 1/11/11, Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: flaps
Date: Tuesday, January 11, 2011, 9:56 PM
I have flaps that do not go all the way up after reaching 1st flap position
whwe they have been down while in flight and on the ground. 350+hrs.-
Robert BrunkenhoeferSent from my Apple iPad
On Jan 11, 2011, at 6:48 PM, DLM wrote:
=0A=0AMine have 370 hours with no problem; I do not use =0Athe flap positio
ning system.=0A=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: =0A Patrick
=0A Thyssen =0A To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A Sent: Tuesday, January 1
1, 2011 5:28 =0A PM=0A Subject: RV10-List: flaps=0A
=0A =0A =0A =0A There are two of us that are around 300 hrs and
now the =0A flaps have been not wanting to come all the way up. If
you give them a =0A little- help by pushing up on them or by takin
g off where there is =0A air pressure on them, they come up. My budd
y has looked in his tunnel =0A and does not see anything wrong. Wond
ering if anybody else has had this =0A problem. I'll- be taking-
mine apart in another week or so to =0A find out what is going on,
wondering, if this is a know problem with the =0A flap motor or the
gears.
They come up to around the half way or first =0A flap setting with n
o problem and then stop, and going down there is no =0A problem just
coming up.
Patrick Thyssen
N15PT
281-655-9363 =0A
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
=0A=0A=0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | rudder pedal extensions |
Tim,
We made these out of =BC inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy. Lightened
them
up with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife couldn=92t keep het
feet on
the floor and move the pedals so we welded an extension on. No
interference
with the brakes. Working on a few modifications to allow easier mounting
and
better cosmetics but they work.
Alan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2011 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
These are really crude and could be refined well with some effort. I
painted them and have left them in almost all the time for I guess 1.5
years
now. They don't interfere with the brakes but that's because I built
them
in such a way that they wouldn't. They basically only touch the pedal
surface...not anything else.
I still have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some day, and
maybe fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.
Tim
On Jan 2, 2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" wrote:
Does anyone make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet tall
and
can=92t reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch extension but it
interfered
with the brakes.
Alan
N668G
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal extensions |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Hi Alan,
That basically looks like what I did but I did it in wood. I haven't yet li
ghtened them but i think done right they could be made fairly light. Would b
e interesting to use carbon fiber but actually i think being a little heavie
r is probably a good thing to some extent...at least on the bottom half belo
w the bar. Mine remove with two bolts in only a minute or so. No interfere
nce with anything. I've left them on for a year or more now. I plan to sp
iffy them up a bit soon, and lighten them a little and maybe add anti-skid t
ape to the bottom lip. They do make it work ok for the wife...so I'm happy.
Tim
On Feb 21, 2011, at 9:08 AM, "Alan Mekler" wrote:
> Tim,
> We made these out of =C2=BC inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy. Lightene
d them up with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife couldn=99t k
eep het feet on the floor and move the pedals so we welded an extension on. N
o interference with the brakes. Working on a few modifications to allow easi
er mounting and better cosmetics but they work.
>
> Alan
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2011 9:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
>
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
>
> These are really crude and could be refined well with some effort. I pain
ted them and have left them in almost all the time for I guess 1.5 years now
. They don't interfere with the brakes but that's because I built them in s
uch a way that they wouldn't. They basically only touch the pedal surface...
not anything else.
> I still have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some day, and ma
ybe fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" wrote:
>
>> Does anyone make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet tall an
d can=99t reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch extension but it in
terfered with the brakes.
>> Alan
>> N668G
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal extensions |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Yes keeping the wife happy is important.
Now I have to get her a seat cushion.
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 21, 2011, at 10:37 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> Hi Alan,
> That basically looks like what I did but I did it in wood. I haven't yet l
ightened them but i think done right they could be made fairly light. Would
be interesting to use carbon fiber but actually i think being a little heav
ier is probably a good thing to some extent...at least on the bottom half be
low the bar. Mine remove with two bolts in only a minute or so. No interfe
rence with anything. I've left them on for a year or more now. I plan to s
piffy them up a bit soon, and lighten them a little and maybe add anti-skid t
ape to the bottom lip. They do make it work ok for the wife...so I'm happy.
> Tim
>
>
>
> On Feb 21, 2011, at 9:08 AM, "Alan Mekler" wrote:
>
>> Tim,
>> We made these out of =C2=BC inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy. Lighten
ed them up with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife couldn=99t k
eep het feet on the floor and move the pedals so we welded an extension on. N
o interference with the brakes. Working on a few modifications to allow easi
er mounting and better cosmetics but they work.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2011 9:13 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
>>
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
>>
>> These are really crude and could be refined well with some effort. I pai
nted them and have left them in almost all the time for I guess 1.5 years no
w. They don't interfere with the brakes but that's because I built them in s
uch a way that they wouldn't. They basically only touch the pedal surface...
not anything else.
>> I still have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some day, and m
aybe fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On Jan 2, 2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet tall a
nd can=99t reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch extension but it i
nterfered with the brakes.
>>> Alan
>>> N668G
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Traville Houston <travilleh(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal extensions |
DOES ANYONE HAVE A (POH) GENERIC GUIDE OR FORMAT FOR THE RV 10?=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________=0AFrom: Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.
net>=0ATo: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Mon,
February 21, 2011 1:44:08 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extens
ions=0A=0A=0AYes keeping the wife happy is important.=0ANow I have to get h
er a seat cushion.=0A=0AAlan=0A=0ASent from my iPhone=0A=0AOn Feb 21, 2011,
at 10:37 AM, Tim Olson wrote:=0A=0A=0AHi Alan, =0A>That b
asically looks like what I did but I did it in wood. I haven't yet =0A>lig
htened them but i think done right they could be made fairly light. Would
be =0A>interesting to use carbon fiber but actually i think being a little
heavier is =0A>probably a good thing to some extent...at least on the botto
m half below the =0A>bar. Mine remove with two bolts in only a minute or s
o. No interference with =0A>anything. I've left them on for a year or mor
e now. I plan to spiffy them up =0A>a bit soon, and lighten them a little
and maybe add anti-skid tape to the bottom =0A>lip. They do make it work
ok for the wife...so I'm happy.=0A>Tim=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>On Feb 21, 2011,
at 9:08 AM, "Alan Mekler" wrote:=0A>=0A>=0A> =0A>>T
im,=0A>>We made these out of =C2=BC inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy. L
ightened them up =0A>>with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife could
n=99t keep het feet on the =0A>>floor and move the pedals so we welde
d an extension on. No interference with the =0A>>brakes. Working on a few m
odifications to allow easier mounting and better =0A>>cosmetics but they wo
rk.=0A>> =0A>>Alan=0A>> =0A>>=0A________________________________=0A =0A>>Fr
om:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com =0A>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson=0A>>Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2011 9
:13 AM=0A>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder p
edal extensions=0A>> =0A>>=0A>>http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/200905
03/index.html=0A>> =0A>>These are really crude and could be refined well wi
th some effort. I painted =0A>>them and have left them in almost all the t
ime for I guess 1.5 years now. They =0A>>don't interfere with the brakes b
ut that's because I built them in such a way =0A>>that they wouldn't. They
basically only touch the pedal surface...not anything =0A>>else.=0A>>I stil
l have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some day, and maybe =0A
>>fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.=0A>>Tim=0A>>=0A>>On Jan 2,
2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" wrote:=0A>>Does any
one make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet tall and can
=99t =0A>>reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch extension but it inte
rfered with the =0A>>brakes.=0A>>>Alan=0A>>>N668G=0A>>> =0A>>> =0A>>>
=0A=0A ============
======================= =0Are
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List==================
==================0A ums.matronics.com">h
ttp://forums.matronics.com =0A===============
==================== =0Ahttp://www.
matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution===
====================== =0A=0A
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dremel tool - recommendation - and anecdote |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
I have the same one. I too have used it a bunch on the build, at work and around
the house. Good for rivet shaving. It runs between 5-35,000 rpm. Last long enough
for most small jobs. Charges back up quick. No cords to cut into like I
did with my old one. But it still will cut into fingers if you desire some excitement.
The 6" deburring wheel does a good job on fingers too as most of you
know.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 43 Cabin Cover
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331807#331807
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | rudder pedal extensions |
http://www.vansairforce.net/POH/N423CF_RV10.pdf
Not my creationcreated by others, modified by me.
I can get you an MS word version if you would like.
My e-mail is.. Rene (at) Felker (dot) com
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Traville
Houston
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
DOES ANYONE HAVE A (POH) GENERIC GUIDE OR FORMAT FOR THE RV 10?
_____
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 1:44:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
Yes keeping the wife happy is important.
Now I have to get her a seat cushion.
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 21, 2011, at 10:37 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
Hi Alan,
That basically looks like what I did but I did it in wood. I haven't
yet lightened them but i think done right they could be made fairly
light. Would be interesting to use carbon fiber but actually i think
being a little heavier is probably a good thing to some extent...at
least on the bottom half below the bar. Mine remove with two bolts in
only a minute or so. No interference with anything. I've left them on
for a year or more now. I plan to spiffy them up a bit soon, and
lighten them a little and maybe add anti-skid tape to the bottom lip.
They do make it work ok for the wife...so I'm happy.
Tim
On Feb 21, 2011, at 9:08 AM, "Alan Mekler"
wrote:
Tim,
We made these out of =C2=BC inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy.
Lightened them up with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife
couldn=99t keep het feet on the floor and move the pedals so we
welded an extension on. No interference with the brakes. Working on a
few modifications to allow easier mounting and better cosmetics but they
work.
Alan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2011 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
These are really crude and could be refined well with some effort. I
painted them and have left them in almost all the time for I guess 1.5
years now. They don't interfere with the brakes but that's because I
built them in such a way that they wouldn't. They basically only touch
the pedal surface...not anything else.
I still have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some day, and
maybe fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.
Tim
On Jan 2, 2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" wrote:
Does anyone make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet tall
and can=99t reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch extension but
it interfered with the brakes.
Alan
N668G
=========
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22%3ehttp://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV10-List>
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=========
ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
=========
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3ehttp:/www.matronics.com/contr
ibution======================
===>
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution============
======================
http://www.matronics.com/con===============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dremel tool - recommendation - and anecdote |
I still only have plug in models but love the new cut off wheel chuck
and the new durable cutting wheels.
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"
>
> I have the same one. I too have used it a bunch on the build, at work and around
the house. Good for rivet shaving. It runs between 5-35,000 rpm. Last long
enough for most small jobs. Charges back up quick. No cords to cut into like
I did with my old one. But it still will cut into fingers if you desire some excitement.
The 6" deburring wheel does a good job on fingers too as most of you
know.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 43 Cabin Cover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal extensions |
Please be careful with the rudder pedal extensions. Last year the
aerobatic community lost Vicky Cruise in an accident in the World
Aerobatic Championships. The cause of the accident was attributed to
the rudder pedal extensions that were attached to a borrowed airplane.
They apparently came loose and jammed the rudder hard over, and she did
not recover. I know that everyone installing rudder pedal extensions
are going to make sure that there will be no interference ..... I'm only
offering this as a reminder.
Linn
On 2/21/2011 10:37 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> Hi Alan,
> That basically looks like what I did but I did it in wood. I haven't
> yet lightened them but i think done right they could be made fairly
> light. Would be interesting to use carbon fiber but actually i think
> being a little heavier is probably a good thing to some extent...at
> least on the bottom half below the bar. Mine remove with two bolts in
> only a minute or so. No interference with anything. I've left them
> on for a year or more now. I plan to spiffy them up a bit soon, and
> lighten them a little and maybe add anti-skid tape to the bottom lip.
> They do make it work ok for the wife...so I'm happy.
> Tim
>
>
> On Feb 21, 2011, at 9:08 AM, "Alan Mekler" > wrote:
>
>> Tim,
>>
>> We made these out of =C2=BC inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy.
>> Lightened them up with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife
>> couldn=99t keep het feet on the floor and move the pedals so we
welded
>> an extension on. No interference with the brakes. Working on a few
>> modifications to allow easier mounting and better cosmetics but they
>> work.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>>
>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Olson
>> *Sent:* Sunday, January 02, 2011 9:13 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
>>
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
>>
>> These are really crude and could be refined well with some effort. I
>> painted them and have left them in almost all the time for I guess
>> 1.5 years now. They don't interfere with the brakes but that's
>> because I built them in such a way that they wouldn't. They basically
>> only touch the pedal surface...not anything else.
>>
>> I still have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some day,
>> and maybe fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On Jan 2, 2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" > > wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet
>>> tall and can=99t reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch exten
sion
>>> but it interfered with the brakes.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> N668G
>>>
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
What I learned from this is you can strike the tail on landing. I did not think
you could.
I have landed with very high nose attitude before practicing short field approaches,
but probably not with an aft CG.
Great post, thanks.
-Scott
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 16, 2011, at 4:19 PM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
>> How can I
>> tell if the sb was complied with? What should I be looking for.
>
> Have a look at http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb08-6-1.pdf. That is the
> specific bulletin - it details the change and how to spot it.
>
> FYI - for any service bulletins related to vans aircraft, you can find
> them here -> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices.htm.
>
> -ron
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone crack found per SB 08-6-1 |
What I learned from this is you can strike the tail on landing. I did not think
you could.
I have landed with very high nose attitude before practicing short field approaches,
but probably not with an aft CG.
Great post, thanks.
-Scott
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 16, 2011, at 4:19 PM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
>> How can I
>> tell if the sb was complied with? What should I be looking for.
>
> Have a look at http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb08-6-1.pdf. That is the
> specific bulletin - it details the change and how to spot it.
>
> FYI - for any service bulletins related to vans aircraft, you can find
> them here -> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices.htm.
>
> -ron
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Governor control cable bracket |
I'm trying to figure out what to do for a governor bracket. I'm using a
PCU5000 governor and James plenum. I purchased the bracket from Van's but
it is clocked wrong (ether pointed at the cylinder or pointed straight
down).
How did others do this?
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Governor control cable bracket |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I think that is the exact combination Deems has on his tricked out Ten.
On Tue, Feb 22, 2011 at 5:10 PM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
> Im trying to figure out what to do for a governor bracket. Im using a
> PCU5000 governor and James plenum. I purchased the bracket from Vans but
> it is clocked wrong (ether pointed at the cylinder or pointed straight
> down).
>
>
> How did others do this?
>
>
> Carl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dremel tool - recommendation - and anecdote |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Wayne, which wheel/bit are you using for rivet shaving? I have the
equivalent corded model, with the long flex cable installed which
makes it real nice for doing stuff like fiberglass and plexi trimming
with cutoff wheel.
On Tue, Feb 22, 2011 at 6:48 AM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> I have the same one. I too have used it a bunch on the build, at work and around
the house. Good for rivet shaving. It runs between 5-35,000 rpm. Last long
enough for most small jobs. Charges back up quick. No cords to cut into like
I did with my old one. But it still will cut into fingers if you desire some excitement.
The 6" deburring wheel does a good job on fingers too as most of you
know.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 43 Cabin Cover
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331807#331807
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Governor control cable bracket |
Here's a link to a set of pictures that should be self explanatory:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FF2%20Baffling%20and%20Plenum/slides/DSC04852.html
Here's a link to some write ups that accompany the pics:
http://deemsrv10.com/FF2logindex.html
Deems
On 2/22/2011 5:46 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
> I think that is the exact combination Deems has on his tricked out Ten.
>
> On Tue, Feb 22, 2011 at 5:10 PM, Carl Froehlich
> wrote:
>> Im trying to figure out what to do for a governor bracket. Im using a
>> PCU5000 governor and James plenum. I purchased the bracket from Vans but
>> it is clocked wrong (ether pointed at the cylinder or pointed straight
>> down).
>>
>>
>>
>> How did others do this?
>>
>>
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Deems Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Arizona vacation |
Hi all
-
My wife and I are presently on vacation in Arizona, and will be in the Tucs
on area Friday Feb 25 - Monday Feb 28th, and then in the Scotsdale area fro
m Tue Mar 1 - Thur Mar 3.
-
If any RV10 builders have a couple of hours to show off their -10, please e
mail me as I'd love to have a look and-a talk.
-
Regards,
-
Rick
#40956 - Wings in progress
Southampton, Ont
-=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Arizona vacation |
I am at FFZ; send a phone number to dlm34077at q.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Lark
To: RV10-list
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 6:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Arizona vacation
Hi all
My wife and I are presently on vacation in Arizona, and will be
in the Tucson area Friday Feb 25 - Monday Feb 28th, and then in the
Scotsdale area from Tue Mar 1 - Thur Mar 3.
If any RV10 builders have a couple of hours to show off their
-10, please email me as I'd love to have a look and a talk.
Regards,
Rick
#40956 - Wings in progress
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Arizona vacation |
Hey dlm, are you in witness relocation program?- Never see a real name, j
ust =0Adlm.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: DLM <dlm
34077(at)q.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, February 22, 2011 9
:50:04 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Arizona vacation=0A=0A=0AI am at FFZ; s
end a phone number to dlm34077at q.com=0A----- Original Message ----- =0A>F
rom: Rick Lark =0A>To: RV10-list =0A>Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 6:31
PM=0A>Subject: RV10-List: Arizona vacation=0A>=0A>=0A>Hi all=0A>=0A>My wife
and I are presently on vacation in Arizona, and will be in the Tucson =0A>
area Friday Feb 25 - Monday Feb 28th, and then in the Scotsdale area from T
ue =0A>Mar 1 - Thur Mar 3.=0A>=0A>If any RV10 builders have a couple of hou
rs to show off their -10, please email =0A>me as I'd love to have a look an
d-a talk.=0A>=0A>Regards,=0A>=0A>Rick=0A>#40956 - Wings in progress=0A>So
uthampton, Ont=0A> =0A>=0A> =0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator
?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A> href="http:/
/forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com =0A>href="http://www.m
======= =0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Arizona vacation |
I was put in the witness protection program for building too many
aircraft.
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 7:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Arizona vacation
Hey dlm, are you in witness relocation program? Never see a real
name, just dlm.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: DLM <dlm34077(at)q.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, February 22, 2011 9:50:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Arizona vacation
I am at FFZ; send a phone number to dlm34077at q.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Lark
To: RV10-list
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 6:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Arizona vacation
Hi all
My wife and I are presently on vacation in Arizona, and will
be in the Tucson area Friday Feb 25 - Monday Feb 28th, and then in the
Scotsdale area from Tue Mar 1 - Thur Mar 3.
If any RV10 builders have a couple of hours to show off their
-10, please email me as I'd love to have a look and a talk.
Regards,
Rick
#40956 - Wings in progress
Southampton, Ont
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Governor control cable bracket |
Thanks Deems - perfect.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Governor control cable bracket
Here's a link to a set of pictures that should be self explanatory:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FF2%20Baffling%20and%20Plenum/slides/DSC048
52.html
Here's a link to some write ups that accompany the pics:
http://deemsrv10.com/FF2logindex.html
Deems
On 2/22/2011 5:46 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
I think that is the exact combination Deems has on his tricked out Ten.
On Tue, Feb 22, 2011 at 5:10 PM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
I'm trying to figure out what to do for a governor bracket. I'm using a
PCU5000 governor and James plenum. I purchased the bracket from Van's but
it is clocked wrong (ether pointed at the cylinder or pointed straight
down).
How did others do this?
Carl
--
Deems Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
I'd appreciate it if one of the builders who has not yet put their wheels together
would give me the AN bolt numbers off both main and nose wheels.
Van's doesn't have it, nor does Cleveland have it in any of their manuals and won't
answer the request.
I need to stock some extras.
Thanks - grumpy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
For anyone who has added two additional tanks to the RV10 wings, please
advise the approximate time/cost to do so. I am already aware of the
engineering issues. thanks. I am considering buying tank parts from
Van's and installing additional tanks outboard and interconnected with
the existing tank system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel bolt info |
Well, the best I can give you is parts breakout in the Spruce catalog,
pg 232, 5:00X5 Cleveland has either AN4-31A for most, or AN4-22A for
the rest. For 6:00X6 it is most likely AN5-35A
On 2/23/2011 8:00 PM, Miller John wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Miller John
>
> I'd appreciate it if one of the builders who has not yet put their wheels together
would give me the AN bolt numbers off both main and nose wheels.
>
> Van's doesn't have it, nor does Cleveland have it in any of their manuals and
won't answer the request.
>
> I need to stock some extras.
>
> Thanks - grumpy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <w.edgerton(at)verizon.net> |
January 30, 2011 - February 24, 2011
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ia