RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ib
February 24, 2011 - March 20, 2011
I had to fly up to TruTrak sometime back to have my autopilot worked on
and saw that their RV10 has two outboard tanks. I talked to Jim Jounkin
about it and I bet if you give him a call he'll gladly answer your
questions.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel bolt info |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If I remember, I can measure the bolts in my uninstalled main wheels
when I next get to the hangar, but I don't have a nose wheel yet, as I
declined to buy Van's erroneous nose wheel selection.
On Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 9:50 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Well, the best I can give you is parts breakout in the Spruce catalog, pg
> 232, 5:00X5 Cleveland has either AN4-31A for most, or AN4-22A for the
> rest. For 6:00X6 it is most likely AN5-35A
>
>
> On 2/23/2011 8:00 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'd appreciate it if one of the builders who has not yet put their wheels
>> together would give me the AN bolt numbers off both main and nose wheels.
>>
>> Van's doesn't have it, nor does Cleveland have it in any of their manuals
>> and won't answer the request.
>>
>> I need to stock some extras.
>>
>> Thanks - grumpy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel bolt info |
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Kelly,
Unfortunately not correct.
I called both Matco and Cleveland this am. Here are the sizes (for those of you
who would like to stock some spares.......ask me why I know).
Nose: AN 4-23A
Main: AN 5-34A (for the 40-59A wheel itself)
grumpy
On Feb 23, 2011, at 10:50 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Well, the best I can give you is parts breakout in the Spruce catalog, pg 232,
5:00X5 Cleveland has either AN4-31A for most, or AN4-22A for the rest. For
6:00X6 it is most likely AN5-35A
>
>
> On 2/23/2011 8:00 PM, Miller John wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Miller John
>>
>> I'd appreciate it if one of the builders who has not yet put their wheels together
would give me the AN bolt numbers off both main and nose wheels.
>>
>> Van's doesn't have it, nor does Cleveland have it in any of their manuals and
won't answer the request.
>>
>> I need to stock some extras.
>>
>> Thanks - grumpy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Your friend retchel has recommended this great product from |
My Scrap Shop
| From: | retchel <mike(at)yahoo.com> |
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-----
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Your friend retchel has recommended this great product from |
My Scrap Shop
| From: | retchel <mike(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi maam/sir!
Your friend, retchel, thought that you would be interested in Coffee and
Cream Papers from My Scrap Shop.
retchel sent a note saying:
I hope you've got a good attorney. . .
Because once you flick this switch on this NEW lethal
traffic machine. . .
The money starts rushing in so fast. . .
you might think you broke some State or Federal laws. . .
http://www.treasure180.co.cc/wl/page.php?un=aeb2&e=rv10-list-digest@matronics.com
But not to worry. It's actually COMPLETELY legal..
And yet it's probably the most powerful traffic
generation system that's ever come across my desk.
I'm not so sure you're ready for something QUITE this powerful?
Or are you. . .
http://www.treasure180.co.cc/wl/page.php?un=aeb2&e=rv10-list-digest@matronics.com
Let me know what you think.
Wealth Builder Team - Gregory
USA
click the link below to unsubscribe:
http://www.treasure180.co.cc/un.php?e=rv10-list-digest@matronics.com
.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To view the product, click on the link below or copy and paste the link into
your web browser:
http://myscrapshop.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1263
Regards,
My Scrap Shop
http://myscrapshop.com/shop/
-----
IMPORTANT: For your protection and to prevent malicious use, all emails sent
via this web site are logged and the contents recorded and available to the
store owner. If you feel that you have received this email in error, please
send an email to management(at)myscrapshop.com
This email address was given to us by you or by one of our customers. If you
feel that you have received this email in error, please send an email to
management(at)myscrapshop.com
This email is sent in accordance with the US CAN-SPAM Law in effect
01/01/2004. Removal requests can be sent to this address and will be honored
and respected.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Video |
Is there a way to remote start the Go Pro or Contour cameras if they were mo
unted on the outside of the plane?
-Scott
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 18, 2011, at 11:00 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Albert,
>
> I have placed a 3 camera (can add a 4th) video recording syste
m in my 8A. One on the VS, one on the belly pointing aft and one in the cock
pit to film both Pilot & squirming Passenger. The cameras are all 520 Line o
r greater bullet cameras with the choice of different lenses (~$100 each on e
Bay). The end result is a good looking image from multiple angles. The down s
ide is the video is not HD. I was unable to find a small, reasonably priced r
emote DVR that recorded HD video so I decided to go with standard def and su
pplement it with something like GoProHD http://gopro.com or the ContourHD ca
mera http://contour.com/ internally mounted. See Note at the end of this em
ail.
>
> I have a feeling that 5 years for now there will be many diffe
rent choices but unfortunately your plane will be painted & flying for some t
ime by then. Below are a couple of photos of the install. You can see in one
photo the shot from the tail on the display screen. I can switch which came
ra is being recorded with the knob to the left of the display.
>
> I think this system will work out nicely but is not the ideal h
ardware for the task. I did see some cool stuff out there but it was many th
ousands of dollars so I decided to go low-def for now. FYI I always carry tw
o additional cameras. One is an HD Video camera called the Sony Bloggie MHS-
TS20 . It is a pretty amazing HD unit for the price with a 3=9D screen
. I paid $120.00 for the camera. Takes pretty good still photos too. Occasio
nally I mount it with a suction RAM mount. This is a video taken with the pr
ior version of the Bloggie called the Webbie. Note: you should watch this in
1080p mode. This was a test video in low light conditions. I was learning t
he focal length of the camera. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aJt4_Chswo&
hd=1
>
> Here is a New Years flight video. Suggest you view full screen & 720p. Aga
in taken with the older Webbie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR2i9EQRZ50
&hd=1
>
> I have to say the videos from the Contour & GoProHD are much b
etter than the Sony Bloggie for action video. Also my 14 Mp camera with 1080
P video does a surprisingly good job of HD video. Sorry no examples.
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> Note:
>
> I believe the best HD video recording system will probably be a PC with an
HD video card. Record to a HD or SSHD then transfer content to thumb drive o
r transfer via wireless / Bluetooth. There are several cards on the market t
hat accept independent video 4 inputs. This may also be the cheapest way to f
ilm multiple HD videos. Unfortunately at this time the cards insert into
=9Ctower=9D style computers. Not something I wanted to add to the a
irplane. The early adopters curse.
>
>
>
> DVR on top with removable memory card. Rotary camera selector.
>
>
>
> View point shows full flaps plus cockpit, prop etc
>
>
>
> Rear facing belly camera. Should look good with the smoke on!
>
>
>
> Tail camera
>
>
>
> Dash Cam. Yes Chrome Roll Bars J
>
>
>
> Can=99t show you all these photos w/o showing the panel J
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2011 8:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Video
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a camera installation for my RV-10. I've used a hand-held
>
> video camera but really would like a camera mounted on the VS and a record
er
>
> in the cockpit. Shooting from inside the cabin shows up the prop in straig
ht
>
> ahead shot so I'm thinking raising the camera would help. I've seen video o
n
>
> Utube that was taken from the VS. Anyone have experience or sources?
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> N991RV
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
> = Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
>
> nd much much more:
> > http://www.map class="MsoPlainText"> - MATRONICS WEB FORU
MS -
> > http://forums.matronics.com
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> s.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Over voltage module mounting failure - Plane Powere Alternator |
I believe this issue may have been reported before.
I have an early model PlanePower 60A internally regulated alternator on
my RV-10. The last time the cowl was removed for an oil change I noticed
that the externally mounted overvoltage module mounting had failed and
the module was hanging loose by it's single wire. The single small screw
attaching the module was attached very close to the edge of another
opening in the rear sheet metal cover on the alternator. The module is
an integral part of a tab extending from the bottom of the module. In my
opinion this invoked a "tuning fork" effect amplifying vibration and
cracking the sheet metal cover. (Later versions of this alternator have
the overvoltage protection mounted internally)
After consulting PlanePower, the module was remounted to an area with
more edge distance and also bedded in RTV to prevent vibration.
Dick Sipp
RV-10 330 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Video |
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Not since I have been looking at them.
Only recent feature upgrades are screen for gopro and GPS for contour. Last
I checked.
Sent from Android phone
Probably while driving
On Feb 25, 2011 8:39 PM, "Scott Schmidt" wrote:
Is there a way to remote start the Go Pro or Contour cameras if they were
mounted on the outside of the plane?
-Scott
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 18, 2011, at 11:00 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Albert,
>
> I have placed a 3 camera (can add a 4th) video recording
system in my 8A. ...
>
> View point shows full flaps plus cockpit, prop etc=85
>
> Rear facing belly camera. Should look good with the smoke on!
Tail camera
>
> Dash Cam. Yes=85 Chrome Roll Bars J
>
> Can=92t show you all these photos w/o showing the panel J
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv1...
>
>
> I'm looking...
= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
nd much much more:
> http://www.map class="MsoPlainText"> - MATRONICS WEB FORUM
S -
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>http://forums.matronics.com
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
s.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ronics.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Video |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I have a ContourGPS. Th has a mechanical slider switch on it, so no easy wa
y to remote start it. That being said, with a 32g chip, you can get 8 hours
of video. So you can edit out the dead time before takeoff....
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2011, at 11:28 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Is there a way to remote start the Go Pro or Contour cameras if they were m
ounted on the outside of the plane?
> -Scott
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Feb 18, 2011, at 11:00 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>> Albert,
>>
>> I have placed a 3 camera (can add a 4th) video recording syst
em in my 8A. One on the VS, one on the belly pointing aft and one in the coc
kpit to film both Pilot & squirming Passenger. The cameras are all 520 Line o
r greater bullet cameras with the choice of different lenses (~$100 each on e
Bay). The end result is a good looking image from multiple angles. The down s
ide is the video is not HD. I was unable to find a small, reasonably priced r
emote DVR that recorded HD video so I decided to go with standard def and su
pplement it with something like GoProHD http://gopro.com or the ContourHD ca
mera http://contour.com/ internally mounted. See Note at the end of this em
ail.
>>
>> I have a feeling that 5 years for now there will be many diff
erent choices but unfortunately your plane will be painted & flying for some
time by then. Below are a couple of photos of the install. You can see in o
ne photo the shot from the tail on the display screen. I can switch which ca
mera is being recorded with the knob to the left of the display.
>>
>> I think this system will work out nicely but is not the ideal
hardware for the task. I did see some cool stuff out there but it was many t
housands of dollars so I decided to go low-def for now. FYI I always carry t
wo additional cameras. One is an HD Video camera called the Sony Bloggie MHS
-TS20 . It is a pretty amazing HD unit for the price with a 3=9D scree
n. I paid $120.00 for the camera. Takes pretty good still photos too. Occasi
onally I mount it with a suction RAM mount. This is a video taken with the p
rior version of the Bloggie called the Webbie. Note: you should watch this i
n 1080p mode. This was a test video in low light conditions. I was learning t
he focal length of the camera. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aJt4_Chswo&
hd=1
>>
>> Here is a New Years flight video. Suggest you view full screen & 720p. Ag
ain taken with the older Webbie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR2i9EQRZ5
0&hd=1
>>
>> I have to say the videos from the Contour & GoProHD are much b
etter than the Sony Bloggie for action video. Also my 14 Mp camera with 1080
P video does a surprisingly good job of HD video. Sorry no examples.
>>
>>
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>> Robin
>>
>>
>>
>> Note:
>>
>> I believe the best HD video recording system will probably be a PC with a
n HD video card. Record to a HD or SSHD then transfer content to thumb drive
or transfer via wireless / Bluetooth. There are several cards on the market
that accept independent video 4 inputs. This may also be the cheapest way t
o film multiple HD videos. Unfortunately at this time the cards insert into
=9Ctower=9D style computers. Not something I wanted to add to the a
irplane. The early adopters curse.
>>
>>
>>
>> DVR on top with removable memory card. Rotary camera selector.
>>
>>
>>
>> View point shows full flaps plus cockpit, prop etc
>>
>>
>>
>> Rear facing belly camera. Should look good with the smoke on!
>>
>>
>>
>> Tail camera
>>
>>
>>
>> Dash Cam. Yes Chrome Roll Bars J
>>
>>
>>
>> Can=99t show you all these photos w/o showing the panel J
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
>> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2011 8:50 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Video
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm looking for a camera installation for my RV-10. I've used a hand-held
>>
>> video camera but really would like a camera mounted on the VS and a recor
der
>>
>> in the cockpit. Shooting from inside the cabin shows up the prop in strai
ght
>>
>> ahead shot so I'm thinking raising the camera would help. I've seen video
on
>>
>> Utube that was taken from the VS. Anyone have experience or sources?
>>
>> Albert Gardner
>>
>> N991RV
>>
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>> = Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
>>
>> nd much much more:
>> > http://www.map class="MsoPlainText"> - MATRONICS WEB FOR
UMS -
>> > http://forums.matronics.com
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> s.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
This is a bit off subject, but a while ago there was some suggestions for using
MEK and something else I think for a good rusty bolt penetrating liquid.
Can anyone forward me the thread or suggest what the other ingredient was?
Thanks!
PS
My inspection is set for this Wednesday :-)
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | seatbelt bolt bushings |
Does anyone know where in the kit the aluminum tubing is for making the bus
hing which go through the selt belts and over the bolts which fasten the se
atbelts to the airframe??
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seatbelt bolt bushings |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am not sure of the size, but you surely have a lot of scrap aluminum tubing (fuel,
brake, pitot, etc.) that you will use for this application. Just cut a few
pieces from the tubing with a band saw. Cut carefully, as they are easy to
lose when they are so small. Measure with your harbor freight micrometer.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332203#332203
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seatbelt bolt bushings |
I went to the hardware store and bought some SS tubing with the correct
ID and OD and cut it to fit. The plans say to drill out the aluminum
tubing supplied but that was a bit cumbersome.
I did not find anything in the kit which had the correct ID for the
bushings you speak of.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Feb 27, 2011, at 9:44 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> Does anyone know where in the kit the aluminum tubing is for making
the bushing which go through the selt belts and over the bolts which
fasten the seatbelts to the airframe??
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: penetrating oil |
IIRC it was either brake fluid or transmission fluid. I'll search my
archives to see what I can find.
On 2/27/2011 7:45 AM, David Leikam wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: David Leikam
>
> This is a bit off subject, but a while ago there was some suggestions for using
MEK and something else I think for a good rusty bolt penetrating liquid.
> Can anyone forward me the thread or suggest what the other ingredient was?
> Thanks!
>
> PS
>
> My inspection is set for this Wednesday :-)
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak (big
blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels
like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal
experience. How in the world do you fix something like this?
Thanks.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: penetrating oil |
Get yourself a can of Kroil. This stuff is amazing. http://www.kanolabs.com/
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 9:45:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: penetrating oil
This is a bit off subject, but a while ago there was some suggestions for using
MEK and something else I think for a good rusty bolt penetrating liquid.
Can anyone forward me the thread or suggest what the other ingredient was?
Thanks!
PS
My inspection is set for this Wednesday :-)
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
This is the information you were looking for.
=========
Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on
rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows;
Penetrating oil..... Average load
None ............ ......516 pounds
WD-40 ................238 pounds
PB Blaster ............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James McGrew" <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
Wayne,
I had a similar leaking rivet during my first annual on my quick build
wings. I used green loctite 290 to seal it up. No problems now almost 4
years later.
My rivet was on the bottom, so I drained the fuel. Someone told me to put a
little vacuum on the tank to help the Loctite get into the rivet, that
sounded like a lot of work to do. I thought it was easier to put a little
pressure on the outside, so I put a piece of rubber hose into a balloon and
held that over the rivet to force some of the Loctite under the rivet. So I
laid on my back under the wing for an hour or so and held it there. I also
used a heat gun to help the Loctite dry. Then I probably let it sit for a
couple weeks before filling the tank back up.
-Jim
N312JE
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Williams
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 3:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel leak
So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak (big
blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels
like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal
experience. How in the world do you fix something like this?
Thanks.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If the sealant is soft, it is bad. The bad sealant has to be removed, then
replaced. Hard plastic or plexiglass scrapers to avoid damaging your
aluminum. There is a solvent. It is slow acting. You probably are going to
have to remove the tank to work on it and find the actual leak. I can get
you the source of the solvent. For hand work the gel form is best.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 3:04 PM, Wayne Williams wrote:
> So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak (big
> blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels
> like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal
> experience. How in the world do you fix something like this?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Wayne
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to the
=0Aexposure to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped the
proseal =0Aoff and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking- rivets, but
they were-in-the =0Athe area between the wing and cabin that is hidden
from sight. Deem's said the =0Acourse of action for visible leaks is-put
ting the tanks under vacuum and letting =0Asome green loc-tite get sucked i
n. I did that and then added the epoxy, so not =0Asure which worked but my
blue stain had gone away. Mine were quick build too and =0Aboth leaked at t
he the same location. Good luck. And for the vacuum-I used my =0Ashop vac
and it seemed to work well. Good Luck=0A=0ABruce 151BJ 39 hrs--=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Wayne Williams <rwayne@ga
mewood.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sun, February 27, 2011 3:
04:49 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: fuel leak=0A=0A=0ASo, doing my first conditi
on inspection and found a small fuel leak (big blue =0Astain) at the inboar
d leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels like =0Aputty. I had a qu
ickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal =0Aexperience. How in
the world do you fix something like this?=0AThanks.=0A-=0AWayne=0A-=0A
=================== =0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
Not a solution but questions. Do you allow passengers to stand on any
portion of the tank during loading? Did you remove the QB tanks to
install the stall warning?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel leak
Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to
the exposure to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped
the proseal off and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking rivets,
but they were in the the area between the wing and cabin that is hidden
from sight. Deem's said the course of action for visible leaks is
putting the tanks under vacuum and letting some green loc-tite get
sucked in. I did that and then added the epoxy, so not sure which worked
but my blue stain had gone away. Mine were quick build too and both
leaked at the the same location. Good luck. And for the vacuum I used my
shop vac and it seemed to work well. Good Luck
Bruce 151BJ 39 hrs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Wayne Williams <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sun, February 27, 2011 3:04:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel leak
So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak
(big blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The
sealant feels like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I
have no proseal experience. How in the world do you fix something like
this?
Thanks.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If that is what the so-called experts told you, they simply don't know
what they are talking about, or are giving you a pacifying excuse with
no basis in fact. Pro-seal only gets gummy if it wasn't mixed and
cured correctly to start with, or was exposed long term to auto-gas.
There are many Mooneys no only with wet wing tanks, but with wet wing
aux tanks that are left empty most of the time. Current versions of
Pro-seal, or Flamemaster Chemseal do not need to be kept wet with
fuel. If that were true, your tanks would leak like a sieve the first
time you put fuel in them, since it likely will have been a year or
two from the sealing to the filling for first flight.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 5:44 PM, Bruce Johnson
wrote:
>
> Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to the exposure
to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped the proseal off
and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking rivets, but they wereinthe the
area between the wing and cabin that is hidden from sight. Deem's said the course
of action for visible leaks isputting the tanks under vacuum and letting
some green loc-tite get sucked in. I did that and then added the epoxy, so not
sure which worked but my blue stain had gone away. Mine were quick build too
and both leaked at the the same location. Good luck. And for the vacuumI used
my shop vac and it seemed to work well. Good Luck
>
> Bruce 151BJ 39 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
http://www.rpm-technology.com/PG300-AG_Gel.htm
Used a fair amount stripping and resealing a Mooney tank. The
smallest container should be enough for your job. They do sell direct.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 5:40 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> If the sealant is soft, it is bad. The bad sealant has to be removed, then
> replaced. Hard plastic or Plexiglas scrapers to avoid damaging your
> aluminum. There is a solvent. It is slow acting. You probably are going to
> have to remove the tank to work on it and find the actual leak. I can get
> you the source of the solvent. For hand work the gel form is best.
>
> On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 3:04 PM, Wayne Williams wrote:
>>
>> So, doing my first condition inspection and found a small fuel leak (big
>> blue stain) at the inboard leading edge of my fuel tank. The sealant feels
>> like putty. I had a quickbuild so the tanks were done so I have no proseal
>> experience. How in the world do you fix something like this?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Wayne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | HD Video Action Camera with Remote! |
As a follow up to our discussion of video cameras I came across this unit
that seems to have unique features including:
Rotating Lens for level framing
Remote Control to turn on/off from a distance (no idea what range)
Screen to review footage
Audio In jack (proprietary but then connects to standard plug [I think])
Note the reviews also say it=92s larger than you expect from the photos.
http://driftinnovation.com/
They even have an Aviation page:
http://driftinnovation.com/category/airshow/
Some good aviation reviews. The only down side I read is the built in audio
is lacking. I suspect wiring the 3.5 mm Mic-In would be the best way to
capture intercom audio.
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
I used the camera's mounting equipment and tie-wraps to attach my Drift HD
170 camera to the left wing strut of my Cessna 172 airplane. I have now
taken several HD videos of flights in northern Michigan during very cold
temps (15-20 degrees F). The videos are spectacular on my HD television.
They look as good as the promotional videos on the manufacturer's website.
The camera endures winds of more than 100 knots during the flights without
any difficulty. Minor vibration on the first flight was cured with duct tap
e
on the base that made the mounting more secure and eliminated play. The
camera's unique adjustment feature that allows me to mount the camera at an
angle on the strut and twist the lens to level the picture is a key feature
.
It does not move from the position that I've set it in. The audio even work
s
well at altitude with the engine roaring. I am thinking of buying a second
camera to mount at another position on the plane. I would recommend it
highly to others.
*Bottom Line:*
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
Just shot a promo using this camera mounted in a helicopter and airplane. I
t
was subjected to high frequency vibrations in the helicopter and performed
superbly when mounted properly. I was very pleased with the quality of the
video and the 170 degrees perfectly covered the inside of the cockpit. The
rotating lens is ingenious! The only drawback of this camera is the audio
proprietary plug. You can only use their wired mic for this camera. I
attempted to acquire the aircraft audio by placing the Drift mic inside
aircraft headsets... which was iffy. If Drift had offered a mini jack
adapter I would have given this product 5 stars. Oh, and their "manual" is
a
folded pamphlet that excludes important info like how to charge the battery
(plug the Drift into your computer just like an iPod). Otherwise, enjoy,
it's a fun camera!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need wheel pant part numbers!!! Need new nosewheel pant |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I left my plans at the hanger and I need to order both halves of a front wheel
fairing for my -10. Search of the webstore pointed me to the RV-12 gear. Here
is why I need a new fairing.
While on short final for the first of what was to be a couple of touch and goes
during my fly-off I heard a bit of a buzzing out front. Nothing serious I thought
since there was a bit of a cross wind I figured it was the nose wheel coming
straight as I got below the trees and out of the crosswind. I touched down
on the mains and started the flaps up, added power and picked right back up.
At about 50 feet I heard a pop. That is when a friend in another aircraft waiting
to take off called me on the radio asking if I planned to come back around
and pick up the pieces of my nose wheel pant from the runway. According to him
and another witness on the ground, when I first approached it looked like the
left side of the wheel pant was fluttering as if it had pulled through the screws.When
I hit the power for the go-around and picked up speed it "exploded"(their
words) into about 8 major pieces. Post-mortem of the wheel pant supports
the ground reports of potential pulled through mounting screws. The left screw
holes are enlarged while the right ones held and I pulled some smaller pieces
from under these screws. I will be redoing the wheel pant of course. Except
this time I will be adding more glass to the sides and spreading the load with
tinnerman washers at a minimum.
Eric Kallio
N518RV 16 hours of phase 1 remaining.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332252#332252
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Hey, at least they've heard of the problem this time.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 6:02 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> If that is what the so-called experts told you, they simply don't know
> what they are talking about, or are giving you a pacifying excuse with
> no basis in fact. Pro-seal only gets gummy if it wasn't mixed and
> cured correctly to start with, or was exposed long term to auto-gas.
> There are many Mooneys no only with wet wing tanks, but with wet wing
> aux tanks that are left empty most of the time. Current versions of
> Pro-seal, or Flamemaster Chemseal do not need to be kept wet with
> fuel. If that were true, your tanks would leak like a sieve the first
> time you put fuel in them, since it likely will have been a year or
> two from the sealing to the filling for first flight.
>
> On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 5:44 PM, Bruce Johnson
> wrote:
> >
> > Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to the
> exposure to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped the
> proseal off and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking rivets, but they
> were in the the area between the wing and cabin that is hidden from sight.
> Deem's said the course of action for visible leaks is putting the tanks
> under vacuum and letting some green loc-tite get sucked in. I did that and
> then added the epoxy, so not sure which worked but my blue stain had gone
> away. Mine were quick build too and both leaked at the the same location.
> Good luck. And for the vacuum I used my shop vac and it seemed to work well.
> Good Luck
> >
> > Bruce 151BJ 39 hrs
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | seatbelt bolt bushings |
That's exactly what I found too=2C either too big ID or too large or too sm
all OD
From: daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: seatbelt bolt bushings
Date: Sun=2C 27 Feb 2011 12:44:44 -0600
I went to the hardware store and bought some SS tubing with the correct ID
and OD and cut it to fit. The plans say to drill out the aluminum tubing s
upplied but that was a bit cumbersome.I did not find anything in the kit wh
ich had the correct ID for the bushings you speak of.
David LeikamRV10 N89DA
On Feb 27=2C 2011=2C at 9:44 AM=2C John Gonzalez wrote:Does anyone know whe
re in the kit the aluminum tubing is for making the bushing which go throug
h the selt belts and over the bolts which fasten the seatbelts to the airfr
ame??
Thanks
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Penetrating oil |
That's what I was looking for thanks.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Feb 27, 2011, at 6:36 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> This is the information you were looking for.
>
> =========
> Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque
on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular
penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut
from a "scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows;
>
> Penetrating oil..... Average load
> None ............ ......516 pounds
> WD-40 ................238 pounds
> PB Blaster ............214 pounds
> Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
> Kano Kroil ............106 pounds
> ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
>
> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Getting near to installing the hinges, and find that Vans didn't bother
to mark them at all. I haven't found on any build logs anything that
identifies which is left and right. Does the high side go to the front
or rear?
Kelly
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Not next to my plane yet but I'm pretty sure the high sides face away from each
for the contour of the cabin top and door top. It's not that they all face fwd
or aft. They mirror each other.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 28, 2011, at 6:04, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Getting near to installing the hinges, and find that Vans didn't bother to mark
them at all. I haven't found on any build logs anything that identifies which
is left and right. Does the high side go to the front or rear?
> Kelly
> --
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Thanks Sean.
On 2/28/2011 6:17 AM, Seano wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Seano
>
> Not next to my plane yet but I'm pretty sure the high sides face away from each
for the contour of the cabin top and door top. It's not that they all face
fwd or aft. They mirror each other.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 28, 2011, at 6:04, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>>
>> Getting near to installing the hinges, and find that Vans didn't bother to mark
them at all. I haven't found on any build logs anything that identifies which
is left and right. Does the high side go to the front or rear?
>> Kelly
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Kelly, here is a couple of shots that should help..... btw, would you still
like =0Ato have a set of the hinge covers.- Sorry I hadn't sent them off
already.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AF
rom: Kelly McMullen =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0AS
ent: Mon, February 28, 2011 7:04:42 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Door Hinges=0A
=0AGetting near to installing the hinges, and find that Vans didn't bother
to mark =0Athem at all. I haven't found on any build logs anything that ide
ntifies which is =0Aleft and right. Does the high side go to the front or r
=========================0A
===================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whirlwind Propeller |
| From: | "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu> |
I just found out that Whirlwind has developed a two blade prop for the RV-10. Below
is a quote from an email exchange with Whirlwind:
> The RV-10 is 79" in diameter and the system weight is 43#. The blade design
is based on the 200 RV series blade. Feedback from the units we have in the field
are very positive.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332286#332286
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Schulz <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Be very careful with any kind of vacuum because it takes very little to
internally collapse any container not designed for vacuum.
When deciding what to use for a vacuum source someshop vacs pull vacuum by
pulling air through an electric motor with brushes.
The air is filtered before it gets to the brushes in the motor but it is
still gas fumes and they are very explosive and even if yours doesn't go
through the motor the spark from the brushes will be very close to the
fumes. Sometime back there was a posting about plugged vents on RV10 fuel
tanks and the tanks where collapsing. Sorry if this got long but I work
around gas and other explosive type fumes and would rather not see a posting
in the future about explosions or collapsing fuel tanks. Loctite green will
wick around the rivet without vacuum as long as there is no internal
pressure. Empty the tank and leave the cap off. I don't know what the
actual statistics are fumes exploding in shop vacs but I know it does
occur. Do you feel lucky???? Google it. It does happen.
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 9:18 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Hey, at least they've heard of the problem this time.
>
> On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 6:02 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>>
>> If that is what the so-called experts told you, they simply don't know
>> what they are talking about, or are giving you a pacifying excuse with
>> no basis in fact. Pro-seal only gets gummy if it wasn't mixed and
>> cured correctly to start with, or was exposed long term to auto-gas.
>> There are many Mooneys no only with wet wing tanks, but with wet wing
>> aux tanks that are left empty most of the time. Current versions of
>> Pro-seal, or Flamemaster Chemseal do not need to be kept wet with
>> fuel. If that were true, your tanks would leak like a sieve the first
>> time you put fuel in them, since it likely will have been a year or
>> two from the sealing to the filling for first flight.
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 5:44 PM, Bruce Johnson
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Join the club, The experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to
>> the exposure to air. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped the
>> proseal off and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking rivets, but they
>> were in the the area between the wing and cabin that is hidden from sight.
>> Deem's said the course of action for visible leaks is putting the tanks
>> under vacuum and letting some green loc-tite get sucked in. I did that and
>> then added the epoxy, so not sure which worked but my blue stain had gone
>> away. Mine were quick build too and both leaked at the the same location.
>> Good luck. And for the vacuum I used my shop vac and it seemed to work well.
>> Good Luck
>> >
>> > Bruce 151BJ 39 hrs
>>
>>
>> scription,
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ====
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind Propeller |
Do they have a 3 blade? While a 2 blade composite should be smoother
than 2 blade aluminum, I think a 3 blade composite would have even less
vibration.
On 2/28/2011 7:10 AM, Andy Turner wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Andy Turner"
>
> I just found out that Whirlwind has developed a two blade prop for the RV-10.
Below is a quote from an email exchange with Whirlwind:
>
>
>> The RV-10 is 79" in diameter and the system weight is 43#. The blade design
is based on the 200 RV series blade. Feedback from the units we have in the
field are very positive.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Rob
>
> --------
> Andy Turner
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332286#332286
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Many builders tested their tanks using a water manometer to raise the
pressure about 4". You can use the same setup to instead draw a vacuum.
Watch closely when drawing the vacuum so that the tank does not distort.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind Propeller |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Any details--i.e. FP (including ground adjustable) or CS, projected price, etc?
For my money, if it's not CS then it's a no-go.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332303#332303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
FYI, the hinges definitely rate multiple trial fittings and clear
marking. I've found it impossible to visually determine which hinge is
which. When I guess, it's ALWAYS wrong. Only my markings allow me to
get them back on right. And when you paint and prime, make sure you
maintain your marks.
Bill "screw up once, then measure thrice" Watson
On 2/28/2011 8:04 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Getting near to installing the hinges, and find that Vans didn't
> bother to mark them at all. I haven't found on any build logs anything
> that identifies which is left and right. Does the high side go to the
> front or rear?
> Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
I use the acetone and atf and always thought it superior to all the other
commercial stuff. Guess it is.
Chuck
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 4:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Penetrating oil
This is the information you were looking for.
=========
Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on
rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows;
Penetrating oil..... Average load
None ............ ......516 pounds
WD-40 ................238 pounds
PB Blaster ............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
Kelly, I agree with you 100% but that is what they claimed. After that I ju
st =0Adidn't ask them anymore questions. I went back and looked for the ema
ils to post =0Abut I must have deleted them.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________
________________=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list
@matronics.com=0ASent: Sun, February 27, 2011 7:02:54 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV1
lot2(at)gmail.com>=0A=0AIf that is what the so-called experts told you, they s
imply don't know=0Awhat they are talking about, or are giving you a pacifyi
ng excuse with=0Ano basis in fact. Pro-seal only gets gummy if it wasn't mi
xed and=0Acured correctly to start with, or was exposed long term to auto-g
as.=0AThere are many Mooneys no only with wet wing tanks, but with wet wing
=0Aaux tanks that are left empty most of the time. Current versions of=0APr
o-seal, or Flamemaster Chemseal do not need to be kept wet with=0Afuel. If
that were true, your tanks would leak like a sieve the first=0Atime you put
fuel in them, since it likely will have been a year or=0Atwo from the seal
ing to the filling for first flight.=0A=0AOn Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 5:44 PM,
Bruce Johnson=0A wrote:=0A>=0A> Join the club, T
he experts at Vans said the proseal gets gummy due to the =0A>exposure to a
ir. So in their words, keep your tanks full. I scraped the proseal =0A>off
and applied some two part epoxy to my leaking- rivets, but they were-in
-the =0A>the area between the wing and cabin that is hidden from sight. D
eem's said the =0A>course of action for visible leaks is-putting the tank
s under vacuum and letting =0A>some green loc-tite get sucked in. I did tha
t and then added the epoxy, so not =0A>sure which worked but my blue stain
had gone away. Mine were quick build too and =0A>both leaked at the the sam
e location. Good luck. And for the vacuum-I used my =0A>shop vac and it s
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, L
=========0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
I read all the time on this list and the VAF forum about problems with the fast
build kits after they are received. Granted, most are build correctly,,,, but
what do you guy's expect from products built in third world countries from workers
with questionable skills, chewing Khat and high as a kite making wages that
aren't much better than a bowl of rice a day? No way I would ever risk my
life, let alone family or friends flying behind questionable quality, some of
which can not even be examined when received.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Middle Tennesse Home with Private Airstrip For Sale By Owner |
| From: | "Ratherfly" <longmeadowfarm(at)aol.com> |
But not for much longer. In April the family plans to list the property with a
real estate professional. If you, or anyone you know is interested in owning a
home with a private airstrip, take a look at the website that was created to
showcase the home.
http://tinyurl.com/ownyourdream
or if you'd rather reach the site directly, it's http://sites.google.com/site/longmeadowfarmairport/
Blue Skies!
Tina
One thing of note, the owners have added almost 12 acres to the original offering.
(They heeded my advice and have tossed in the two building lots to the home/hangar
property making it 33+ acres for the same $499,000)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332338#332338
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_264.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Well, if you go back to Van's website, the workers are supposedly
skilled and experienced. I would put any blame squarely on Van's
pinching pennies and letting his customers be his quality control
dept.
I quote from the website:
"How would you like to hire a team of experienced experts, with over a
thousand completed RV airframes on their resume, for twenty-five
weeks, eight hours a day?
They will build the first half of your kit, jigging and riveting about
75% of your metal airframe. They will do all the messy jobs, like
sealing the fuel tanks and priming to protect against corrosion. They
never leave a mess, make no noise, dont need insurance and never want
to use your bathroom. When they leave, you will have only 800-1200
hours of work to finish the airplane.
And they work for about eight dollars an hour!
We dont know anybody like that either, but we can tell you how to get
the result: Order a QuickBuild Kit."
As to defects, I spent around 10 days doing inspection, step by step
through the plans, annotating anything I wasn't satisfied with. I'm
picky after 30+ years working on certified planes and inspecting them
for their annuals. Anything I didn't like I drilled out the rivets,
took out the part and fixed it right. That is what the plans tell you
to do, Van's marketing hype aside. Comparing the mistakes the QB had
vs what the average builder is going to do, is kind of a toss-up. So
it comes down to whether you want to blame yourself or Van's
subcontractor? If you think that because you built it yourself it is
safer to take your family in than the Quick build kits, you are
deluding yourself.
Kelly
fiberglass hell
A&P/IA
On Mon, Feb 28, 2011 at 4:04 PM, wrote:
> I read all the time on this list and the VAF forum about problems with the
> fast build kits after they are received. Granted, most are build
> correctly,,,, but what do you guy's expect from products built in third
> world countries from workers with questionable skills, chewing Khat and high
> as a kite making wages that aren't much better than a bowl of rice a day?
> No way I would ever risk my life, let alone family or friends flying behind
> questionable quality, some of which can not even be examined when received.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
My aircraft contains QB wings (#24)and QB fuselage (#8) . Now have
400TT. IIRC there was very little that I could not inspect. My QB tanks
do not leak. Your statements about foreign workers sounds right out of a
union management's playbook. I lived and worked outside the USA before
retirement and by far the most skilled craftsman in the Middle East and
Far East are the Phillipinos. Their work was "bought" by skilled
Americans. We trusted these foreign workers for a lot of complex and
difficult tasks on projects a lot more costly and important than these
aircraft. I trust these foreign workers enough to have purchased a new
Honda Accord and a new Kia Forte.
One only needs to look at the before and after pictures of 1940s/2010s
Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and Detroit Hiroshima and Nagasaki are modern
cities and Detroit is abandoned shacks and burnt out buildings. Google
modern Detroit and modern Hiroshima. More depends on the quality of
administration than the perceived inadequacies of the workforce.
After seeing Kelly's post, the $8 an hour in the Philippines equates to
$16000 per year. The projected cost of $8 per hour includes the
construction, transportation, inspection and profit. The average wage in
the Philippines is closer to $1 an hour. If the workers are getting even
$2 per hour they are doing quite well. In 1980, Pilipino bus drivers in
the Middle East were housed, fed and medicated at no charge and received
$1000 salary per month. They were also performing domestic tasks for $5
per hour in their spare time. When a driver completed his 2 year
contract, he went home with $30k-$50k and lived quite well. Some started
other businesses.
As Kelly suggests inspect and fix if desired. In my case there was very
little to correct. The QB tanks don't leak but I did not remove them to
install a stall warning and passengers do not stand on the tanks. The
only thing I regret on the QB wings is the inability to install extra
tanks when under construction. I may yet install additional outboard
tanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel leak
I read all the time on this list and the VAF forum about problems with
the fast build kits after they are received. Granted, most are build
correctly,,,, but what do you guy's expect from products built in third
world countries from workers with questionable skills, chewing Khat and
high as a kite making wages that aren't much better than a bowl of rice
a day? No way I would ever risk my life, let alone family or friends
flying behind questionable quality, some of which can not even be
examined when received.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | re: fuel tank leak |
Thanks everyone for the replies. I never would have thought of Loctite
green. The warning of using the shop vac with fuel vapor is a good one and
easy to overlook. I appreciate the solvent source. Looks like I've got
another project. At least now I know what to do!
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
Didn't mean to get you all worked up about quickbuilds. It doesn't matter w
ho =0Adose the tanks, sometimes they leak. The only thing I am complaining
about is =0AVan's attitude and BS- about the proseal getting gummy when e
xposed to air. Go =0Aahead and get back to you protesting in Wisconsin.=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "davidsoutpost@comcast
.net" =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mon
, February 28, 2011 4:04:49 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: fuel leak=0A=0A=0A
I read all the time on this list and the VAF forum about problems with the
fast =0Abuild kits after they are received.-- Granted, most are build c
orrectly,,,, but =0Awhat do you guy's expect from products built in third w
orld countries from =0Aworkers with questionable skills, chewing Khat and h
igh as a kite making wages =0Athat aren't much better than a bowl of rice a
day?-- No way I would ever risk my =0Alife, let alone family or friend
s flying behind questionable quality, some of =0Awhich can not even be exam
ined when received. =0A=0A=0ADavid Clifford=0A=0ARV-10 Builder=0AHowell,-
======================== _
== =0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Just wandering if anybody is going to be a Sun N Fun this year. I plan to take
the -10 and will be there the 29-31.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332421#332421
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
I fear if I went and saw your airplane I would become depressed with my
progress!
Have fun!
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: greghale
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 3:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: sun n fun
Just wandering if anybody is going to be a Sun N Fun this year. I plan to
take the -10 and will be there the 29-31.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332421#332421
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
I plan to be there in our RV... but it's the land base one.- Leaving the
10 at =0Ahome.- Will look for you.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________
_______________________=0AFrom: greghale <ghale5224(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-lis
t(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, March 1, 2011 5:46:39 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List:
com>=0A=0AJust wandering if anybody is going to be a Sun N Fun this year.
- I plan to take =0Athe -10 and will be there the 29-31.=0A=0AGreg...=0A
=0A--------=0AGreg Hale rv10 -- N210KH=0Awww.nwacaptain.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AR
ead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I'll be at the Maverick booth right next to Van's all week. Stop by when go
ing by Van's.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 1, 2011, at 7:34 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
> I plan to be there in our RV... but it's the land base one. Leaving the 1
0 at home. Will look for you.
> Don McDonald
>
> From: greghale <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tue, March 1, 2011 5:46:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: sun n fun
>
>
> Just wandering if anybody is going to be a Sun N Fun this year. I plan to
take the -10 and will be there the 29-31.
>
> Greg...
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332421#332421
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
If my buddies don't back out , we plan on flying our 10. Hope to meet some of the
other ten builders while there. Are any of you camping under the wing? I was
thinking of trying to talk the others in doing so, just for the full Sun n Fun
experience. I've been to Sun n Fun numerous times but this is my first experience
"flying in" so I would like the full meal deal.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332431#332431
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my airworthiness
certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR and the FAA
there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this happens twice a year
and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to cap
off a couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming soon.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Congratulations Sean. Time to get all the test flight plans prepared,
to be ready for the day the weather gods decide will be right for the
first flight.
On Wed, Mar 2, 2011 at 7:26 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my airworthiness
certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR and the FAA
there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this happens twice a year
and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to cap
off a couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming soon.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Sean,
Congratulations!
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2011, at 9:26 AM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
> After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my airworthiness
certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR and the FAA
there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this happens twice a
year and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to
cap off a couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming
soon.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Great news! Congrats!!!!
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2011, at 9:26 AM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
Greg
I'll be there with my RV-10 the 29-31 maybe longer.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: sun n fun
I'll be at the Maverick booth right next to Van's all week. Stop by when
going by Van's.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 1, 2011, at 7:34 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
I plan to be there in our RV... but it's the land base one. Leaving the 10
at home. Will look for you.
Don McDonald
_____
From: greghale <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tue, March 1, 2011 5:46:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: sun n fun
ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Just wandering if anybody is going to be a Sun N Fun this year. I plan to
take the -10 and will be there the 29-31.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
<http://www.nwacaptain.com/> www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332421#332421
==================================
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List
==================================
ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
==================================
http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Congrats!
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: Strasnuts <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Sent: Wed, Mar 2, 2011 14:26:28 GMT+00:00
Subject: RV10-List: Airworthiness Certificate
After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my
airworthiness certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR
and the FAA there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this
happens twice a year and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the
inspection. I had to cap off a couple wires I ran for future use and that
was it. Pictures coming soon.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Nice. Only two years and essentially no squeaks! Congratulations!
...via phone
On Mar 2, 2011, at 6:26 AM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
> After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my airworthiness
certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR and the FAA
there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this happens twice a
year and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to
cap off a couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming
soon.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John J" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Airworthiness Certificate |
Squawks! Just love this autocorrect function.
...via phone
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jessen [mailto:n212pj(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2011 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthiness Certificate
Nice. Only two years and essentially no squeaks! Congratulations!
...via phone
On Mar 2, 2011, at 6:26 AM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
> After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my
airworthiness certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR
and the FAA there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this
happens twice a year and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the
inspection. I had to cap off a couple wires I ran for future use and that
was it. Pictures coming soon.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Nice job Whistler ! Way to go !
Deems
On 3/2/2011 7:26 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"
>
> After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my airworthiness
certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR and the FAA
there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this happens twice a
year and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to
cap off a couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming
soon.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
>
>
--
Deems Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Congrats Sean...
Jeff Carpenter
40304... keeping the dream alive (just barely)
On Mar 2, 2011, at 6:26 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received
> my airworthiness certificate. Inspection went well even though I
> had my DAR and the FAA there. The FAA was there inspecting the
> DAR. I guess this happens twice a year and I was the lucky
> recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to cap off a
> couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming
> soon.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | "Byron" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
Great to hear! Makes my 5 year build sound a lot longer. Anxious to hear about
the first flight.
Byron
N253RV Phase 1
------Original Message------
From: Strasnuts
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Airworthiness Certificate
Sent: Mar 2, 2011 9:26 AM
After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my airworthiness
certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR and the FAA
there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this happens twice a year
and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to cap
off a couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming soon.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Sean did a great job and had amazing discipline to work on the plane.
It will be fun to watch it fly for the first time.
-Scott
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2011, at 7:26 AM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
> After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my airworthiness
certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR and the FAA
there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this happens twice a
year and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to
cap off a couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming
soon.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I've got so much to do at home now I may just keep flying into the sunset on that
first flight. Can I get to Mexico on one tank? I guess that's not in my phase
1 area.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2011, at 14:13, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> Sean did a great job and had amazing discipline to work on the plane.
>
> It will be fun to watch it fly for the first time.
>
> -Scott
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 2, 2011, at 7:26 AM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
>>
>> After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my airworthiness
certificate. Inspection went well even though I had my DAR and the
FAA there. The FAA was there inspecting the DAR. I guess this happens twice
a year and I was the lucky recipient. Five hours for the inspection. I had to
cap off a couple wires I ran for future use and that was it. Pictures coming
soon.
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Barnette <barnettephillip(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
...and so humble!! Hee Hee
I can sure attest to this plane being a work of heart. Had opportunity to lo
ok at it during the frantic lead up to inspection.
Strong, strong work!
Phil Barnette
Salt Lake City
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2011, at 10:37 AM, Seano wrote:
> Thanks Robin,
> You were much faster with your 8 weren't you!
>
> Strasnuts was a big help. He is sooo smart, handsome too!
>
> I forgot to mention I received the 25 hour fly off. :)
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
Yes I am going to be there as well in my newly painted airplane, Mar 29-31. The
plan is for me to meet up with Geoff and go together from his place in Ohio.
--------
Ivan K.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (90 hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332570#332570
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Barnette <barnettephillip(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Or work of art- as case may be. Damn grammar checker...
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2011, at 4:35 PM, Phil Barnette wrote:
> ...and so humble!! Hee Hee
>
> I can sure attest to this plane being a work of heart. Had opportunity to l
ook at it during the frantic lead up to inspection.
>
> Strong, strong work!
>
> Phil Barnette
> Salt Lake City
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 2, 2011, at 10:37 AM, Seano wrote:
>
>> Thanks Robin,
>> You were much faster with your 8 weren't you!
>>
>> Strasnuts was a big help. He is sooo smart, handsome too!
>>
>> I forgot to mention I received the 25 hour fly off. :)
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
The whole build was frantic!
It was sure nice having Scott's sweet plane next to me to reference.
I can't imagine building one of the early ones without this huge support gro
up
Sent from my iPhone
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Make that two in one day. I got my blessing at about 7pm this evening.
Just waiting for a calm day now.
Congrads to you Sean and may you have an uneventful first flight.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Mar 2, 2011, at 7:48 PM, Seano wrote:
> The whole build was frantic!
> It was sure nice having Scott's sweet plane next to me to reference.
> I can't imagine building one of the early ones without this huge
support group
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: Nearly Completed RV-10 Project (DFW) |
| From: | "2eyedocs" <2eyedocs(at)gmail.com> |
Excellent workmanship throughout with professional assistance from an A&P. Kit
includes many extras including new Hartzell Constant Speed 2 blade metal Prop,
new Vetterman exhaust for Lycoming IO-540, all Position Lights and Strobes, Antennas,
Safety-Trim speed sensitive controller, FWF kit with Throttle Quadrant,
etc., etc. Metal work completed including Controls (Yoke, Ailerons, Elevator,
Rudder, etc.), Fuel tanks, Fuel Lines, Gear, Brakes and Brake Lines and kit
Interior. Most Fiberglass work completed including Cabin top mated to fuse, Doors
installed and fitted, Wing Tips, Rudder Tip, etc. Wiring to wings and fuse
completed to Wing Tip Lighting, AP servos, Heated Pitot, etc. Wheel Pants and
Gear Fairing are not competed. Heated Pitot installed and plumbed, Static Ports
installed and currently working on static plumbing to the panel. You will
have personal choice on buying Avionics, Engine and Interior Finish-Out.
Excellent Opportunity!!
Get a major head start towards First Flight with a wonderful aircraft for close
to the price of parts. Asking $79,000, willing to negotiate. Contact Mark at
2eyedocs(at)gmail.com or 817-915-7294. Some pics may be seen at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/2eyedocs/RV10Build#
Partial Inventory List Attached:
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332592#332592
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_10__kit_inventory_list_148.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Wow Sean, congrats on the C of A.- I'm #40956 and I'm working on the wing
s.- Can't imagine how you accomplished your build so fast.- Well done..
.......Rick
--- On Wed, 3/2/11, Strasnuts wrote:
From: Strasnuts <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Airworthiness Certificate
Received: Wednesday, March 2, 2011, 2:26 PM
After two years of building slow kit number 40936 I finally received my air
worthiness certificate.- Inspection went well even though I had my DAR an
d the FAA there.- The FAA was there inspecting the DAR.- I guess this h
appens twice a year and I was the lucky recipient.- Five hours for the in
spection.- I had to cap off a couple wires I ran for future use and that
was it.- Pictures coming soon.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332478#332478
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Well done as well David.- What's your build #?
-
Rick
#40956
(slow...slow.... build)
--- On Thu, 3/3/11, David Leikam wrote:
From: David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthiness Certificate
Received: Thursday, March 3, 2011, 3:44 AM
Make that two in one day. -I got my blessing at about 7pm this evening.
-Just waiting for a calm day now.
Congrads to you Sean and may you have an uneventful first flight.
David Leikam
RV10-
N89DA
On Mar 2, 2011, at 7:48 PM, Seano wrote:
The whole build was frantic! -
It was sure nice having Scott's sweet plane next to me to reference.-
I can't imagine building one of the early ones without this huge support gr
oup-
Sent from my iPhone
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ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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onics.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Congrats Dave! It is easy to appreciate the scale of this project after
building one. Amazing how many of these being cranked out and the
amount of labor in each one.
OSH will have to secure a huge space for the RV-10 clan.
----- Original Message -----
From: David Leikam
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2011 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthiness Certificate
Make that two in one day. I got my blessing at about 7pm this
evening. Just waiting for a calm day now.
Congrads to you Sean and may you have an uneventful first flight.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Mar 2, 2011, at 7:48 PM, Seano wrote:
The whole build was frantic!
It was sure nice having Scott's sweet plane next to me to reference.
I can't imagine building one of the early ones without this huge
support group
Sent from my iPhone
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
href="x-msg://534/3D%22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22"
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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tronics.com
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/www.matronics.com/contribution
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
40496. I started the quick build kit January of 2006. About 1260 hours
into it so far. I still have to install the gear leg fairings and wheel
pants and have it painted.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
40496
On Mar 2, 2011, at 11:39 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Well done as well David. What's your build #?
>
> Rick
> #40956
> (slow...slow.... build)
>
> --- On Thu, 3/3/11, David Leikam wrote:
>
> From: David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthiness Certificate
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Received: Thursday, March 3, 2011, 3:44 AM
>
> Make that two in one day. I got my blessing at about 7pm this
evening. Just waiting for a calm day now.
> Congrads to you Sean and may you have an uneventful first flight.
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 2, 2011, at 7:48 PM, Seano wrote:
>
>> The whole build was frantic!
>> It was sure nice having Scott's sweet plane next to me to reference.
>> I can't imagine building one of the early ones without this huge
support group
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
href="x-msg://534/3D%22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22">
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
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>>
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ronics.com
>>
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>>
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>
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> =nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
> llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Beginning wiring |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8 sections
are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The ones I'm planning for
are:
1) Static tubing?
2) Battery positive
3) Battery negative?
4) Rear Light
5) AHARS
6) Pitch servo
7) Elevator Trim servo
8 O/H console air controller
9) O/H console lighting?
Is there something else I should be planning for?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332612#332612
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Beginning wiring |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
On Mine:
LH side: #2 ga power to front, 14ga power to strobe power supply, 2 ea 16-3/S strobe
cables to wings, 18 ga tail pos light, pitot tubing to grt ahrs.
RH side/Bundle #1(only one in conduit): Elt phone cable, dynon magnetometer 4-22/S,
GRT ahrs/magnetometer harness, spare 18-3S, 10ga aux bat e-bus feed, 16 ga
aux bat hot feed to front, crossfeed contactor and e-bus relay 22 ga grounds.
RH side/Bundle #2: VOR RG-400, static tubing to front, 2 ea spare 18-3/S(for ads-b
down the road or anything else in the tail), pitch ap servo harness, pitch
trim 5-26/S cable.
I only ran one conduit, the other two assemblies I did before covering the area.
I only use conduit for wiring that I did not have or know about at the time.
Everything that I could think of at the time got ran inside bushings, rubber
grommets, ms clamps. I just like have my wires tight and not flopping around loose
inside the conduit. Same for the wings. I run wires for hvac inside conduit
on fixed equipment. Over time vibrations in the plane may or may not be good
for the insulation. Conduit holds the heat in the bundle longer. I did not see
the point in using high dollar tefzel wiring then enclose it in highly flammable
plastic. I am sure there is a MS type conduit, but I doubt Van's supplies
that.
So if going with conduit and running a ground up front 3 should be fine unless
your installing spares like I did then you may need 4.
Been working on cabin cover then alternating with some wiring while epoxy cures.
About ready to paint the interior, install some led lights/rg-400 to top com
and install it in a few days. Doors after that...oh boy.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 43 Cabin Cover
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332623#332623
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginning wiring |
ground to frame? saves weight,cost and space
----- Original Message -----
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 6:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Beginning wiring
>
> I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8
> sections are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The ones
> I'm planning for are:
>
> 1) Static tubing?
> 2) Battery positive
> 3) Battery negative?
> 4) Rear Light
> 5) AHARS
> 6) Pitch servo
> 7) Elevator Trim servo
> 8 O/H console air controller
> 9) O/H console lighting?
>
> Is there something else I should be planning for?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332612#332612
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginning wiring |
On a new aircraft, grounding to the frame works just fine. However, in
the presence of an electrolyte ..... I live near the coast of FL ....
salty air ..... I believe that current flow will hasten corrosion in the
structure causing 'gremlin' problems down the road. I'm installing the
ground cable up to the firewall and to a ground block. All my smaller
wire ground returns will connect to that ground block. I'll probably
not live long enough for problems to occur in my -10, but it's possible.
Linn
On 3/3/2011 9:30 AM, DLM wrote:
>
> ground to frame? saves weight,cost and space
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 6:31 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Beginning wiring
>
>
>>
>> I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8
>> sections are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The
>> ones I'm planning for are:
>>
>> 1) Static tubing?
>> 2) Battery positive
>> 3) Battery negative?
>> 4) Rear Light
>> 5) AHARS
>> 6) Pitch servo
>> 7) Elevator Trim servo
>> 8 O/H console air controller
>> 9) O/H console lighting?
>>
>> Is there something else I should be planning for?
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 flying
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332612#332612
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginning wiring |
On a new aircraft, grounding to the frame works just fine. However, in
the presence of an electrolyte ..... I live near the coast of FL ....
salty air ..... I believe that current flow will hasten corrosion in the
structure causing 'gremlin' problems down the road. I'm installing the
ground cable up to the firewall and to a ground block. All my smaller
wire ground returns will connect to that ground block. I'll probably
not live long enough for problems to occur in my -10, but it's possible.
Linn
On 3/3/2011 9:30 AM, DLM wrote:
>
> ground to frame? saves weight,cost and space
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 6:31 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Beginning wiring
>
>
>>
>> I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8
>> sections are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The
>> ones I'm planning for are:
>>
>> 1) Static tubing?
>> 2) Battery positive
>> 3) Battery negative?
>> 4) Rear Light
>> 5) AHARS
>> 6) Pitch servo
>> 7) Elevator Trim servo
>> 8 O/H console air controller
>> 9) O/H console lighting?
>>
>> Is there something else I should be planning for?
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 flying
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332612#332612
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginning wiring |
Like others, I took the approach of running everything I could plan
using clamps, grommets, etc. Then I have 2 runs of conduit, just under
the rear floor section that Tim described, for the 'unplanned' stuff.
The planned stuff is mainly big wire electrical system stuff. The
unplanned is more avionics and small circuts. Stactic lines I ran on
the rh side wall.
I'd suggest getting the documentation for Van's electrical kit. It has
details for running a lot of electrical system wires including
clamp/grommet hardware for running stuff from back to front. (There's
good stuff for FWF wiring too). I wouldn't suggest the kit itself, just
the doc.
Then just add some empty conduit for other stuff.
Added a pic of battery compartment to show some of big wire electrical
system stuff at the bottom, and a conduit run in the middle of the pic.
You can also see my battery to frame ground setup.
Bill "praying for higher painting temps" Watson
On 3/3/2011 8:31 AM, rvdave wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave"
>
> I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8 sections
are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The ones I'm planning
for are:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Beginning wiring |
This is what I did also,,,,,ground cable and terminal block at the firewall
.. FWIW, I ran two 1" and one 3/4" conduit (the flexible kind from Home Dep
ot) snaked through the baggage rib lightening holes, edges protected with e
dge grommet, on each side (total of 6). They come up through the rear seat
pans between the side covers and side fuselage skins. My SafeAir static/pit
ot lines are on the co-pilot side and run through snap bushings installed i
n the bulkheads. I am using heavy #1 marine cable, positive and negative, e
ach in its own conduit. Two more of the conduits are used for two antenna c
oax cables, and several bundles of other wires for elevator trim, rudder tr
im, strobe cables and power supply, rudder position light, elevator AP serv
o,,,,etc. Bottom line is I have two leftover 1"conduits for future wire run
s I haven't thought of, or might need down the line. Run them now before yo
u rivet the floor and seat pans down. You will not be sorry if you have one
or two unused conduits but will be if you find out later you need one but
did not put one in while you could.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 3, 2011 10:15:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Beginning wiring
On a new aircraft, grounding to the frame works just fine. However, in
the presence of an electrolyte ..... I live near the coast of FL ....
salty air ..... I believe that current flow will hasten corrosion in the
structure causing 'gremlin' problems down the road. I'm installing the
ground cable up to the firewall and to a ground block. All my smaller
wire ground returns will connect to that ground block. I'll probably
not live long enough for problems to occur in my -10, but it's possible.
Linn
On 3/3/2011 9:30 AM, DLM wrote:
>
> ground to frame? saves weight,cost and space
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 6:31 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Beginning wiring
>
>
>>
>> I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8
>> sections are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The
>> ones I'm planning for are:
>>
>> 1) Static tubing?
>> 2) Battery positive
>> 3) Battery negative?
>> 4) Rear Light
>> 5) AHARS
>> 6) Pitch servo
>> 7) Elevator Trim servo
>> 8 O/H console air controller
>> 9) O/H console lighting?
>>
>> Is there something else I should be planning for?
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 flying
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332612#332612
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Seems like the completion rate is accellerating. I got my AW cert a week
and a half ago, but the weather here has been hideous, so no flight yet.
It's sitting in the hangar ready to pull out and fly, driving me nuts.
-Rob
#40566, 3.5 years of building (QB wings and fuse)
On Wed, Mar 2, 2011 at 7:44 PM, David Leikam wrote:
> Make that two in one day. I got my blessing at about 7pm this evening.
> Just waiting for a calm day now.
> Congrads to you Sean and may you have an uneventful first flight.
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
>
>
> On Mar 2, 2011, at 7:48 PM, Seano wrote:
>
> The whole build was frantic!
> It was sure nice having Scott's sweet plane next to me to reference.
> I can't imagine building one of the early ones without this huge support
> group
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> **
>
> *
>
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> href="x-msg://534/3D%22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> href="x-msg://534/3D%22http://forums.matronics.com%22">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> href="x-msg://534/3D%22http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> 3D============================================
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> =
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Congrats David!
On Mar 3, 2011, at 5:06 AM, David Leikam wrote:
> 40496. I started the quick build kit January of 2006. About 1260
> hours into it so far. I still have to install the gear leg fairings
> and wheel pants and have it painted.
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
> 40496
>
>
> On Mar 2, 2011, at 11:39 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
>> Well done as well David. What's your build #?
>>
>> Rick
>> #40956
>> (slow...slow.... build)
>>
>> --- On Thu, 3/3/11, David Leikam wrote:
>>
>> From: David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthiness Certificate
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Received: Thursday, March 3, 2011, 3:44 AM
>>
>> Make that two in one day. I got my blessing at about 7pm this
>> evening. Just waiting for a calm day now.
>> Congrads to you Sean and may you have an uneventful first flight.
>>
>> David Leikam
>> RV10
>> N89DA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 2, 2011, at 7:48 PM, Seano wrote:
>>
>>> The whole build was frantic!
>>> It was sure nice having Scott's sweet plane next to me to reference.
>>> I can't imagine building one of the early ones without this huge
>>> support group
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D=====================
>>> href="x-msg://534/3D%22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22
>>> ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D=====================
>>> href="x-msg://534/3D%22http://forums.matronics.com%22">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D=====================
>>> href="x-msg://534/3D%22http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D
>>> =
>>> 3D=====================
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
>> llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beginning wiring |
On 3/3/2011 12:30 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Like others, I took the approach of running everything I could plan
> using clamps, grommets, etc. Then I have 2 runs of conduit, just
> under the rear floor section that Tim described, for the 'unplanned'
> stuff. The planned stuff is mainly big wire electrical system stuff.
> The unplanned is more avionics and small circuts. Stactic lines I ran
> on the rh side wall.
>
> I'd suggest getting the documentation for Van's electrical kit. It
> has details for running a lot of electrical system wires including
> clamp/grommet hardware for running stuff from back to front. (There's
> good stuff for FWF wiring too). I wouldn't suggest the kit itself,
> just the doc.
Wanted to add that you can use the doc and a parts list to identify any
small brackets or stuff that you may want to order a la carte. Worked
well for me.
>
> Then just add some empty conduit for other stuff.
>
> Added a pic of battery compartment to show some of big wire electrical
> system stuff at the bottom, and a conduit run in the middle of the
> pic. You can also see my battery to frame ground setup.
>
> Bill "praying for higher painting temps" Watson
>
>
> On 3/3/2011 8:31 AM, rvdave wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave"
>>
>> I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8
>> sections are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The
>> ones I'm planning for are:
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Beginning wiring |
Where can you get the vans's electrical kit documentation? Will they give it
to you?
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Beginning wiring
On 3/3/2011 12:30 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Like others, I took the approach of running everything I could plan
> using clamps, grommets, etc. Then I have 2 runs of conduit, just
> under the rear floor section that Tim described, for the 'unplanned'
> stuff. The planned stuff is mainly big wire electrical system stuff.
> The unplanned is more avionics and small circuts. Stactic lines I ran
> on the rh side wall.
>
> I'd suggest getting the documentation for Van's electrical kit. It
> has details for running a lot of electrical system wires including
> clamp/grommet hardware for running stuff from back to front. (There's
> good stuff for FWF wiring too). I wouldn't suggest the kit itself,
> just the doc.
Wanted to add that you can use the doc and a parts list to identify any
small brackets or stuff that you may want to order a la carte. Worked
well for me.
>
> Then just add some empty conduit for other stuff.
>
> Added a pic of battery compartment to show some of big wire electrical
> system stuff at the bottom, and a conduit run in the middle of the
> pic. You can also see my battery to frame ground setup.
>
> Bill "praying for higher painting temps" Watson
>
>
> On 3/3/2011 8:31 AM, rvdave wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave"
>>
>> I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8
>> sections are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The
>> ones I'm planning for are:
>>
>
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Beginning wiring |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Search for DOC ES HARNESS-10 540 at Van's web store. It costs 10 bucks.
Lenny
[quote="wgreenley"]Where can you get the vanss electrical kit documentation? Will
they give it to you?
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 1:55 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Beginning wiring
On 3/3/2011 12:30 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Like others, I took the approach of running everything I could plan
> using clamps, grommets, etc. Then I have 2 runs of conduit, just
> under the rear floor section that Tim described, for the 'unplanned'
> stuff. The planned stuff is mainly big wire electrical system stuff.
> The unplanned is more avionics and small circuts. Stactic lines I ran
> on the rh side wall.
>
> I'd suggest getting the documentation for Van's electrical kit. It
> has details for running a lot of electrical system wires including
> clamp/grommet hardware for running stuff from back to front. (There's
> good stuff for FWF wiring too). I wouldn't suggest the kit itself,
> just the doc.
Wanted to add that you can use the doc and a parts list to identify any
small brackets or stuff that you may want to order a la carte. Worked
well for me.
>
> Then just add some empty conduit for other stuff.
>
> Added a pic of battery compartment to show some of big wire electrical
> system stuff at the bottom, and a conduit run in the middle of the
> pic. You can also see my battery to frame ground setup.
>
> Bill "praying for higher painting temps" Watson
>
>
> On 3/3/2011 8:31 AM, rvdave wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave"
>>
>> I'm just starting to run conduit for fuselage, wondering how many 7/8
>> sections are necessary for tailcone area. I currently have 3. The
>> ones I'm planning for are:
>>
>
==========
RV10-List Email Forum -
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com (http://www.avg.com)
03/03/11
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332675#332675
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | iPad & ForeFlight |
| From: | "ehm6006" <ed(at)muellerartcover.com> |
Does the iPad wifi only unit (not cellular unit) work with ForeFlight? Without
a cell connection?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332696#332696
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | iPad & ForeFlight |
Yes but you need an external GPS ( GNS5870 or Bad Elf)to see your position
on the maps. I have the Bluetooth GNS5870 and it works great with the IPAD.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ehm6006
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 7:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: iPad & ForeFlight
Does the iPad wifi only unit (not cellular unit) work with ForeFlight?
Without a cell connection?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332696#332696
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: iPad & ForeFlight |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
You need Internet to file a flight plan & an external gps for position, but if
you download the charts & plates via wifi, they are available in the air.
I have the holux bt gps, but you have to be jailbroken to use it. It is cheap
at only $35, and works extremely well. Much better than internal gps in iPhone,
IMHO.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 3, 2011, at 7:43 PM, "ehm6006" wrote:
>
> Does the iPad wifi only unit (not cellular unit) work with ForeFlight? Without
a cell connection?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332696#332696
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws |
I can't find any place in the parts where they sent me enough of these scre
ws to attach the seat rails. Did anyone else have this shortage or am I mis
sing something?
And I thought that as the part count went down it would get easier to find
needed items.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws |
You probably just need to do what we've all done.... put an order together
with =0ASpruce, or another hardware supplier, of practically every nut, bol
t, screw. nut =0Aplate, washer, cotter pin, tubing, etc, so that you just M
IGHT have what you =0Aneed, when you need it.- Obviously it'll take a lit
tle time to iron out the =0Aquantities, but it's worth it.=0ACouple of hund
red bucks ought to do it.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________________
_________=0AFrom: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>=0ATo: RV 10 group
=0ASent: Sat, March 5, 2011 5:06:30 PM=0ASubject:
RV10-List: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws=0A=0AI can't find any place in
the parts where they sent me enough of these screws to =0Aattach the seat r
ails. Did anyone else have this shortage or am I missing =0Asomething?=0A
-=0AAnd I thought that as the part count went down it would get easier to
=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws |
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
I just dug mine out last week. They were in a brown paper bag with all the other
bags of hardware that came in the finish kit. There were over 100 of them IIRC.
I temporarily installed my seat rails and stripped two of the Phillips heads
when I removed them. Had to drill them out of the nutplates. I will use Torx
drive screws next time they get installed.
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 5:06:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws
I can't find any place in the parts where they sent me enough of these screws to
attach the seat rails. Did anyone else have this shortage or am I missing something?
And I thought that as the part count went down it would get easier to find needed
items.
John
or?RV10-List" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigtronics.com/" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey John,
It's been too long for me to remember exactly, but it seems there IS something
about the seat rail screws -- some countersunk, some not? not all the holes in
the rails are used? Others that are at that stage or have the plans handy, chime
in here. Or lay the seat rails out where they fit and check it out.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332862#332862
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws |
For what it's worth, I have no idea what I got and what Vans gave me, but I
am one of those that ordered all sorts of items from Spruce so I always have
extra's on hand for those times I need a hot swap for a stripped hardware
item or more commonly, misplaced items.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Lew Gallagher
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2011 4:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws
Hey John,
It's been too long for me to remember exactly, but it seems there IS
something about the seat rail screws -- some countersunk, some not? not all
the holes in the rails are used? Others that are at that stage or have the
plans handy, chime in here. Or lay the seat rails out where they fit and
check it out.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332862#332862
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another first flight |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Hi, all... after three years, six months, and one week, our RV-10 finally
had its first flight on Saturday! Rob took off from runway 34L at Paine
Field, climbed to 3000 feet, circled the airport for 15 minutes, then landed
uneventfully. Despite some nerves, the flight was a success. Only 39.75
more hours to go until the test period is complete and Kelly can ride, too!
Our RV-10 is powered by an Aero Sport Power IO-540-D4A5 (260 hp), Silver
Hawk EX FI system, with a slick mag on bottom and Light Speed Plasma III on
top. The instrument panel has a Dynon D100 EFIS, Dynon D120 EMS, Garmin GNS
430 GPS, and panel-mounted Garmin GPSMAP 696. Interior by Flightline
Interiors. Our tail number is 819K: 8/19 is our wedding anniversary, and K
is for "Kelly" (according to her).
Short video of today's flight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60XPTEVzhYs
-Rob and Kelly
http://kochman.net/N819K/
P.S. (from Rob) The airplane was definitely my passion, but there's no way I
could have done it without Kelly. She put up with more than I could ever
ask for and kept me sane during the low points of the building, but she also
took it a step further. These pictures really show it was a team effort.
http://kochman.net/KellyAirplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight |
Way to go Rob and Kelly!
My wife Mary, and I, made ours a team effort as well. It makes it all
the sweeter!
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Mar 6, 2011, at 12:58 AM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Hi, all... after three years, six months, and one week, our RV-10
> finally had its first flight on Saturday! Rob took off from runway
> 34L at Paine Field, climbed to 3000 feet, circled the airport for
> 15 minutes, then landed uneventfully. Despite some nerves, the
> flight was a success. Only 39.75 more hours to go until the test
> period is complete and Kelly can ride, too!
>
> Our RV-10 is powered by an Aero Sport Power IO-540-D4A5 (260 hp),
> Silver Hawk EX FI system, with a slick mag on bottom and Light
> Speed Plasma III on top. The instrument panel has a Dynon D100
> EFIS, Dynon D120 EMS, Garmin GNS 430 GPS, and panel-mounted Garmin
> GPSMAP 696. Interior by Flightline Interiors. Our tail number is
> 819K: 8/19 is our wedding anniversary, and K is for
> "Kelly" (according to her).
>
> Short video of today's flight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?
> v=60XPTEVzhYs
>
> -Rob and Kelly
> http://kochman.net/N819K/
>
> P.S. (from Rob) The airplane was definitely my passion, but there's
> no way I could have done it without Kelly. She put up with more
> than I could ever ask for and kept me sane during the low points of
> the building, but she also took it a step further. These pictures
> really show it was a team effort. http://kochman.net/KellyAirplane/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron&Donya" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Another first flight |
Way to go Rob!
I know you are both proud. Getting the wife involved is the best option
(providing she wants). My wife became pretty good at shooting rivets while I
got in the difficult areas to buck. She seemed to really enjoy being part of
the project.
Congrats!
Byron
N253RV Phase 1
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 12:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Another first flight
Hi, all... after three years, six months, and one week, our RV-10 finally
had its first flight on Saturday! Rob took off from runway 34L at Paine
Field, climbed to 3000 feet, circled the airport for 15 minutes, then landed
uneventfully. Despite some nerves, the flight was a success. Only 39.75
more hours to go until the test period is complete and Kelly can ride, too!
Our RV-10 is powered by an Aero Sport Power IO-540-D4A5 (260 hp), Silver
Hawk EX FI system, with a slick mag on bottom and Light Speed Plasma III on
top. The instrument panel has a Dynon D100 EFIS, Dynon D120 EMS, Garmin GNS
430 GPS, and panel-mounted Garmin GPSMAP 696. Interior by Flightline
Interiors. Our tail number is 819K: 8/19 is our wedding anniversary, and K
is for "Kelly" (according to her).
Short video of today's flight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60XPTEVzhYs
-Rob and Kelly
http://kochman.net/N819K/
P.S. (from Rob) The airplane was definitely my passion, but there's no way I
could have done it without Kelly. She put up with more than I could ever
ask for and kept me sane during the low points of the building, but she also
took it a step further. These pictures really show it was a team effort.
http://kochman.net/KellyAirplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight |
Oh that's awesome! The commentary was the best part of the whole show.
Congrats on a the first flight and excited wife.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Big congrats Rob!
Tim
On Mar 5, 2011, at 11:58 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Hi, all... after three years, six months, and one week, our RV-10 finally h
ad its first flight on Saturday! Rob took off from runway 34L at Paine Fiel
d, climbed to 3000 feet, circled the airport for 15 minutes, then landed une
ventfully. Despite some nerves, the flight was a success. Only 39.75 more h
ours to go until the test period is complete and Kelly can ride, too!
>
> Our RV-10 is powered by an Aero Sport Power IO-540-D4A5 (260 hp), Silver H
awk EX FI system, with a slick mag on bottom and Light Speed Plasma III on t
op. The instrument panel has a Dynon D100 EFIS, Dynon D120 EMS, Garmin GNS 4
30 GPS, and panel-mounted Garmin GPSMAP 696. Interior by Flightline Interio
rs. Our tail number is 819K: 8/19 is our wedding anniversary, and K is for "
Kelly" (according to her).
>
> Short video of today's flight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60XPTEVzhY
s
>
> -Rob and Kelly
> http://kochman.net/N819K/
>
> P.S. (from Rob) The airplane was definitely my passion, but there's no way
I could have done it without Kelly. She put up with more than I could ever
ask for and kept me sane during the low points of the building, but she als
o took it a step further. These pictures really show it was a team effort. h
ttp://kochman.net/KellyAirplane/
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Speaking of seat rails |
| From: | Wayne Edgerton <w.edgerton(at)verizon.net> |
Sent from my Iphone Wayne
Since were on the subject of seat rails I'm assuming some of you are having the
same problem as me with the seat being very difficult to move as tome goes on.
For those that have this same problem have you come up with an easy solution?
Boy during this colder period it's almost impossible to get them to slide.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of seat rails |
I believe there's a strip of teflon/plastic in the rail.- If you pull it
out and =0Ajust sand yourself a little more clearance, it should take care
of the problem.=0ADon=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom
: Wayne Edgerton =0ATo: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" <
rv10-list(at)matronics.com>=0ASent: Sun, March 6, 2011 7:16:34 AM=0ASubject: R
e Edgerton =0A=0A=0A=0ASent from my Iphone Wayne=0A
=0A=0ASince were on the subject of seat rails I'm assuming some of you are
having the =0Asame problem as me with the seat being very difficult to move
as tome goes on. =0AFor those that have this same problem have you come up
with an easy solution? =0ABoy during this colder period it's almost imposs
-========================
============0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I checked and mine are in bag 1435 qty 80 an509-8r10. I attached a searchable
() word file for all but the Firewall Forward kit.
--------
Bill Peyton
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332889#332889
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_10_inventory_list_117.doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of seat rails |
One thing that was a mistake was lubing the rails with white lithium
grease. Over time and with cold temps it made the situation worse. The
teflon? is on the seat riders.
Had to clean out all the grease, they seem to work best without lube or
perhaps some very light type. Have not tried that yet. If the tracks
are the least bit out of alignment the problem is obviously worse.
Dick Sipp
350 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of seat rails |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
A little silicone spray helps.
Tim
On Mar 6, 2011, at 7:40 AM, Don McDonald wrote:
> I believe there's a strip of teflon/plastic in the rail. If you pull it o
ut and just sand yourself a little more clearance, it should take care of th
e problem.
> Don
>
> From: Wayne Edgerton <w.edgerton(at)verizon.net>
> To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com"
> Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 7:16:34 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Speaking of seat rails
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Iphone Wayne
>
>
> Since were on the subject of seat rails I'm assuming some of you are havin
g the same problem as me with the seat being very difficult to move as tome g
oes on. For those that have this same problem have you come up with an easy s
olution? Boy during this colder period it's almost impossible to get them to
slide.
>
> Wayne = - List Contribution Web Site -
&nbs================
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Speaking of seat rails |
What type are you using. I have used the LPS-2 with a little
successbut looking for something better..
I thought it would get better over time, but after 150 hours.I
have seen little improvement.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Speaking of seat rails
A little silicone spray helps.
Tim
On Mar 6, 2011, at 7:40 AM, Don McDonald
wrote:
I believe there's a strip of teflon/plastic in the rail. If you pull it
out and just sand yourself a little more clearance, it should take care
of the problem.
Don
_____
From: Wayne Edgerton <w.edgerton(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 7:16:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Speaking of seat rails
Sent from my Iphone Wayne
Since were on the subject of seat rails I'm assuming some of you are
having the same problem as me with the seat being very difficult to move
as tome goes on. For those that have this same problem have you come up
with an easy solution? Boy during this colder period it's almost
impossible to get them to slide.
Wayne = - List Contribution Web Site -
&nbs================
=========
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=========
ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
=========
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22%3ehttp:/www.matronics.com/contr
ibution> ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws |
Thanks Bill. I referenced bag 1435 in my kit which is located in my "quickb
uild Fuselage Kit." My Firewall Foreward kits have bags in the 500's.
Indeed=2C this bag 1435 does contain the AN509 8R10 screws but there are on
ly #20. That would leave me five screws per rail.
Weird how Van's inventory with the kits ship=2C but it is an wonder it work
s at all.
BTW not only have I been orderring extra of everything=2C but also now have
the plastic Plano boxes to label and sort them.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws
> From: peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net
> Date: Sun=2C 6 Mar 2011 05:55:49 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I checked and mine are in bag 1435 qty 80 an509-8r10. I attached a search
able () word file for all but the Firewall Forward kit.
>
> --------
> Bill Peyton
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332889#332889
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_10_inventory_list_117.doc
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight |
Congratulations on a great team effort!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: RV-10 Empennage $2400 |
| From: | "drthomasd" <drthomasd(at)charter.net> |
Check out my listing on Barnstormers for the information. All crated and ready
to go. Offers gladly accepted!
http://www.barnstormers.com/ad_manager/my_ads.php
Tom Delaney
St Louis
--------
Tom Delaney
St. Louis, MO
N427G Rotorway Exec 162F
Soon to make decision on RV-10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332954#332954
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat rails and AN509 8R10 screws |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
When I received my kit, I scanned in the entire inventory document using a text
converter, and then cleaned it up using MS Word, where it is easily searchable.
I then just put the bags in plastic drawers purchase from the aviation section
of Lowes. The drawers are numbered with the bag number. When I need a specific
part I just punch it in to the work area laptop, and it tells me which
bag its in. Vans told me they were in the process of converting all of the antique
inventory forms to Word. They sent me the QB Fuse list, which is all they
had done at the time. It sure makes it easier to find stuff. I never did
anthing more than a bag inventory. I did find that I was short 300 of the CS4-4s,
which Vans sent me ASAP, no questions.
bill
--------
Bill Peyton
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332990#332990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight |
Congadulations, Glad to see I wasnt the only one to head up un-painted and
no =0Awheel pants. Nice Job=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________
=0AFrom: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list <rv10-list@matroni
cs.com>=0ASent: Sat, March 5, 2011 10:58:55 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Anothe
r first flight=0A=0A=0AHi, all... after three years, six months, and one we
ek, our RV-10 finally had =0Aits first flight on Saturday!- Rob took off
from runway 34L at Paine Field, =0Aclimbed to 3000 feet, circled the airpor
t for 15 minutes, then landed =0Auneventfully.- Despite some nerves, the
flight was a success.- Only 39.75 more =0Ahours to go until the test peri
od is complete and Kelly can ride, too!- =0A=0A=0AOur RV-10 is powered by
an Aero Sport Power IO-540-D4A5 (260 hp), Silver Hawk EX =0AFI system, wit
h a slick mag on bottom and Light Speed Plasma III on top.- The =0Ainstru
ment panel has a Dynon D100 EFIS, Dynon D120 EMS, Garmin GNS 430 GPS, and
=0Apanel-mounted Garmin GPSMAP 696.- Interior by Flightline Interiors.-
Our tail =0Anumber is 819K: 8/19 is our wedding anniversary, and K is for
"Kelly" (according =0Ato her).=0A=0AShort video of today's flight: http://w
ww.youtube.com/watch?v=60XPTEVzhYs=0A=0A-Rob and Kelly=0Ahttp://kochman.n
et/N819K/=0A=0AP.S. (from Rob) The airplane was definitely my passion, but
there's no way I =0Acould have done it without Kelly.- She put up with mo
re than I could ever ask =0Afor and kept me sane during the low points of t
he building, but she also took it =0Aa step further.- These pictures real
ly show it was a team effort. =0Ahttp://kochman.net/KellyAirplane/=0A=0A _
-========================
============ =0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight |
Congratulations to a local guy. We have never met but I hope to remedy
that some time. I am just down the road in Puyallup and a couple of
years behind you. We have two RV-10s in process here. I am the slow
one. One of our chapter members, Charlie, was your DAR according to
your pictures. Hopefully our weather will cooperate with your fly-off
plans, but this time of year it is not too promising.
Hoping for smooth air and blue skies. :-)
Dave Fritzsche
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
On 3/5/2011 9:58 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>
> Hi, all... after three years, six months, and one week, our RV-10
> finally had its first flight on Saturday! Rob took off from runway
> 34L at Paine Field, climbed to 3000 feet, circled the airport for 15
> minutes, then landed uneventfully. Despite some nerves, the flight
> was a success. Only 39.75 more hours to go until the test period is
> complete and Kelly can ride, too!
>
> Our RV-10 is powered by an Aero Sport Power IO-540-D4A5 (260 hp),
> Silver Hawk EX FI system, with a slick mag on bottom and Light Speed
> Plasma III on top. The instrument panel has a Dynon D100 EFIS, Dynon
> D120 EMS, Garmin GNS 430 GPS, and panel-mounted Garmin GPSMAP 696.
> Interior by Flightline Interiors. Our tail number is 819K: 8/19 is
> our wedding anniversary, and K is for "Kelly" (according to her).
>
> Short video of today's flight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60XPTEVzhYs
>
> -Rob and Kelly
> http://kochman.net/N819K/
>
> P.S. (from Rob) The airplane was definitely my passion, but there's no
> way I could have done it without Kelly. She put up with more than I
> could ever ask for and kept me sane during the low points of the
> building, but she also took it a step further. These pictures really
> show it was a team effort. http://kochman.net/KellyAirplane/
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal extensions |
I just did a little work on my pedal blocks this weekend:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
I decided since I had nothing better to do, I'd pull them and drill
some holes in them, repaint them, put anti-skid on them, and
just in general freshen them up. I took some photos while
they are out, so you can better see how they were made. I
tweaked the write-up a little too. These were meant to be
a temporary, proof-of-concept thing, but they're working out
so good I decided to just leave them, even if they aren't
cosmetically perfect.
The total weight is something around 2.5lbs for the pair.
I could lighten them quite a bit more I'm sure, but I don't
think I'll even try. Mounting is a breeze, with the dowels
and big washers.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 2/21/2011 9:08 AM, Alan Mekler wrote:
> Tim,
>
> We made these out of inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy. Lightened
> them up with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife couldnt keep
> het feet on the floor and move the pedals so we welded an extension on.
> No interference with the brakes. Working on a few modifications to allow
> easier mounting and better cosmetics but they work.
>
> Alan
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Olson
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 02, 2011 9:13 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
>
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
>
> These are really crude and could be refined well with some effort. I
> painted them and have left them in almost all the time for I guess 1.5
> years now. They don't interfere with the brakes but that's because I
> built them in such a way that they wouldn't. They basically only touch
> the pedal surface...not anything else.
>
> I still have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some day, and
> maybe fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" > wrote:
>
>> Does anyone make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet tall
>> and cant reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch extension but it
>> interfered with the brakes.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> N668G
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> * *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal extensions |
| From: | amekler(at)metrocast.net |
BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
Tim,
Thanks for the update. Mine work fine but aren't that easy to mount.
My next set will be lighter and have an easier mount.
Regards,
Alan
On Mon 03/07/11 2:23 PM , Tim Olson Tim(at)MyRV10.com sent:
I just did a little work on my pedal blocks this weekend:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html [2]
I decided since I had nothing better to do, I'd pull them and drill
some holes in them, repaint them, put anti-skid on them, and
just in general freshen them up. I took some photos while
they are out, so you can better see how they were made. I
tweaked the write-up a little too. These were meant to be
a temporary, proof-of-concept thing, but they're working out
so good I decided to just leave them, even if they aren't
cosmetically perfect.
The total weight is something around 2.5lbs for the pair.
I could lighten them quite a bit more I'm sure, but I don't
think I'll even try. Mounting is a breeze, with the dowels
and big washers.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 2/21/2011 9:08 AM, Alan Mekler wrote:
> Tim,
>
> We made these out of =C2=BC inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy.
Lightened
> them up with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife couldn=99t
keep
> het feet on the floor and move the pedals so we welded an
extension on.
> No interference with the brakes. Working on a few modifications to
allow
> easier mounting and better cosmetics but they work.
>
> Alan
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [3]
> [owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [4]] *On Behalf Of *Tim
Olson
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 02, 2011 9:13 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com [5]
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
>
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html [6]
>
> These are really crude and could be refined well with some effort.
I
> painted them and have left them in almost all the time for I guess
1.5
> years now. They don't interfere with the brakes but that's because
I
> built them in such a way that they wouldn't. They basically only
touch
> the pedal surface...not anything else.
>
> I still have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some
day, and
> maybe fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" > wrote:
>
>> Does anyone make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet
tall
>> and can=99t reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch extension
but it
>> interfered with the brakes.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> N668G
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> * *
Links:
------
[1] mailto:Tim(at)myrv10.com
[2] http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
[3] mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[4] mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[5] mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com
[6]
http://metromail.metrocast.net/parse.php?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.myrv10
.com%2FN104CD%2Fupgrades%2F20090503%2Findex.html
[7] mailto:amekler(at)metrocast.net
[8] mailto:amekler(at)metrocast.net
[9] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
[10] http://forums.matronics.com
[11] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |
| Subject: | rudder pedal extensions |
Tim,
I am finalizing design and fabrication of pedal systems for RV's. Extensions
look like an option I should consider.
I have a couple other product ideas I be offering soon.
Paul Grimstad, Bend Or.
(RV10 sold at the RV5 stage) RV12 (built in 8 months) painting now
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2011 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
I just did a little work on my pedal blocks this weekend:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
I decided since I had nothing better to do, I'd pull them and drill
some holes in them, repaint them, put anti-skid on them, and
just in general freshen them up. I took some photos while
they are out, so you can better see how they were made. I
tweaked the write-up a little too. These were meant to be
a temporary, proof-of-concept thing, but they're working out
so good I decided to just leave them, even if they aren't
cosmetically perfect.
The total weight is something around 2.5lbs for the pair.
I could lighten them quite a bit more I'm sure, but I don't
think I'll even try. Mounting is a breeze, with the dowels
and big washers.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 2/21/2011 9:08 AM, Alan Mekler wrote:
> Tim,
>
> We made these out of inch Aluminum. They are pretty heavy. Lightened
> them up with holes. They extend about 4 inches. My wife couldnt keep
> het feet on the floor and move the pedals so we welded an extension on.
> No interference with the brakes. Working on a few modifications to allow
> easier mounting and better cosmetics but they work.
>
> Alan
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Olson
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 02, 2011 9:13 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: rudder pedal extensions
>
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090503/index.html
>
> These are really crude and could be refined well with some effort. I
> painted them and have left them in almost all the time for I guess 1.5
> years now. They don't interfere with the brakes but that's because I
> built them in such a way that they wouldn't. They basically only touch
> the pedal surface...not anything else.
>
> I still have to pull them and drill some lightening holes some day, and
> maybe fill some gaps with wood putty for cosmetics.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2011, at 7:41 AM, "Alan Mekler" > wrote:
>
>> Does anyone make a rudder pedal extension? My wife is only 5 feet tall
>> and cant reach the pedals. I tried making a 4inch extension but it
>> interfered with the brakes.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> N668G
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> * *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | OT: GPS chaos: How a $30 box can jam your life - tech - 06 |
March 2011 - New Scientist
More light being brought on the impending GPS problems.....
http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn20202-gps-chaos-how-a-30-box-can-jam-your-life.html?page=1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Konrad/Conny <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
I just (re-)joined a few of the Matronics RV lists a few days
ago, ...after I took a hiatus for a few years.
At first I thought my computer was broken, as I did not get any of the
daily emails on the other lists, and the digest showed -0- messages
for each day? Hmmm, what is (not) going on here???
The only active one seems to be the RV-10 list here, and a little
traffic on the Aero Electric List? Did I miss the demise of all the
others lists while I was away? Any enlightenment would be much
appreciated!
Thanks, Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
Try the Pietenpol list. It is one of the more active (and informative)
lists on the 'net.
Jack Phillips
RV-10 project #40610
Pietenpoll Air Camper NX899JP flying
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Konrad/Conny
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 2:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: List(s) demise?
I just (re-)joined a few of the Matronics RV lists a few days
ago, ...after I took a hiatus for a few years.
At first I thought my computer was broken, as I did not get any of the
daily emails on the other lists, and the digest showed -0- messages
for each day? Hmmm, what is (not) going on here???
The only active one seems to be the RV-10 list here, and a little
traffic on the Aero Electric List? Did I miss the demise of all the
others lists while I was away? Any enlightenment would be much
appreciated!
Thanks, Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
| From: | "johnsyy11" <johnsyy.richn2011(at)yahoo.com> |
With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus groups! Get paid
to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
Quit your day job and be your own boss!
Unlimited income potential and rewards!
Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how Platinum Survey changed
my life. Before I discovered Platinum Survey I was working part-time as
a cashier at the local grocer while taking care of my three children; Alex, Patricia,
and Jacob. I was having trouble balancing my home life and my work life
and I was barely able to make ends meet with my minimum-wage job. I searched
the internet trying to find a solution to my financial problems. When I discovered
Platinum Survey, I was skeptical at first. What set me at ease was their
60-day money back guarantee. Not only that, but they said I could keep all of
the money and gifts that I received from the companies I helped. So I decided
to give them a shot and now 6 months have passed. I quit my job at the grocer
and work 7 hours a week earning $800.00 a week. Thats 5 times what I was making
slaving away at the local mart.
Whats neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what surveys I want to do.
I can also pick how many surveys I want to do per day or week and I dont have
to worry about finishing them quickly because there are no time-limits to worry
about. I have also participated in 2 online focus groups which were a lot of
fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of my time, in case you were curious.
quit you day job now.
join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
Fuck off and remove me from your list you scum sucker!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "johnsyy11" <johnsyy.richn2011(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>
> With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
> by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus groups! Get
> paid
> to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
> Quit your day job and be your own boss!
> Unlimited income potential and rewards!
>
>
> Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how Platinum
> Survey changed my life. Before I discovered Platinum Survey I was working
> part-time as a cashier at the local grocer while taking care of my three
> children; Alex, Patricia, and Jacob. I was having trouble balancing my
> home life and my work life and I was barely able to make ends meet with my
> minimum-wage job. I searched the internet trying to find a solution to my
> financial problems. When I discovered Platinum Survey, I was skeptical at
> first. What set me at ease was their 60-day money back guarantee. Not only
> that, but they said I could keep all of the money and gifts that I
> received from the companies I helped. So I decided to give them a shot and
> now 6 months have passed. I quit my job at the grocer and work 7 hours a
> week earning $800.00 a week. That?Ts 5 times what I was making slaving
> away at the local mart.
> What?Ts neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what surveys I want
> to do. I can also pick how many surveys I want to do per day or week and I
> don?Tt have to worry about finishing them quickly because there are no
> time-limits to worry about. I have also participated in 2 online focus
> groups which were a lot of fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of my time,
> in case you were curious.
>
> quit you day job now.
>
> join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sigtronics SPA-400 Four Place Panel Mount Intercom |
| From: | "John Jessen" <john.m.jessen(at)gmail.com> |
I recently installed a new intercom that gave me stereo and an aux input. My old
mono intercom is available. 4-place.
$150 + shipping. Excellent condition.
Description follows:
Sigtronics SPA-400 Four Place Panel Mount Intercom
Sigtronics pioneered the voice activated intercom market in 1974 and continues
to deliver value and performance today in the FAA TSO approved SPA-400 intercom
series. Radio priority avoids stepping on incoming and outgoing radio messages.
Choose either rectangular (horizontal or vertical) or circular faceplate mounting
configuration to fit anywhere in the cockpit.
* FAA TSO approved
* Pilot fail safe feature allows pilot to always hear radios
* Reversible face plate included for vertical or horizontal mounting
* Size - Panel 2.5" x 1", Chassis 4" x 2.5" x 1"
* Weight - 4.5 oz chassis, 5.5 oz jacks & wiring harness
--------
John J
Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333264#333264
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/sigtronics_331.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Narco AT-150 Transponder + Altitude Encoder |
| From: | "John Jessen" <john.m.jessen(at)gmail.com> |
Narco AT-150 Transponder
This has been rock solid for me, but I'm implementing a TIS (or ADS-B) solution,
and so will need to part with the Narco. $795 + shipping.
If you want the Altitude Encoder that is wired to it, it would save you from having
to buy one and wire it. $200 + shipping.
John J
--------
John J
Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333266#333266
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/narco_at_150_144.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
Thane;
It's a virus! do yourself a favor reply to the sender not the forum next
time my 2 year doesn't appreciate reading these comments!
Konrad;
You wanted a lively group ;-) this is VERY unusual
-----Original Message-----
From: Thane States
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling
surveys
Fuck off and remove me from your list you scum sucker!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "johnsyy11" <johnsyy.richn2011(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>
> With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
> by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus groups! Get
> paid
> to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
> Quit your day job and be your own boss!
> Unlimited income potential and rewards!
>
>
> Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how Platinum
> Survey changed my life. Before I discovered Platinum Survey I was working
> part-time as a cashier at the local grocer while taking care of my three
> children; Alex, Patricia, and Jacob. I was having trouble balancing my
> home life and my work life and I was barely able to make ends meet with my
> minimum-wage job. I searched the internet trying to find a solution to my
> financial problems. When I discovered Platinum Survey, I was skeptical at
> first. What set me at ease was their 60-day money back guarantee. Not only
> that, but they said I could keep all of the money and gifts that I
> received from the companies I helped. So I decided to give them a shot and
> now 6 months have passed. I quit my job at the grocer and work 7 hours a
> week earning $800.00 a week. That?Ts 5 times what I was making slaving
> away at the local mart.
> What?Ts neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what surveys I want
> to do. I can also pick how many surveys I want to do per day or week and I
> don?Tt have to worry about finishing them quickly because there are no
> time-limits to worry about. I have also participated in 2 online focus
> groups which were a lot of fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of my time,
> in case you were curious.
>
> quit you day job now.
>
> join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spot Messenger Share interest? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I have a Spot Messenger that I have been using for one year. I like it, but it
is not perfect. I would be disinclined to rent it out as I fly in the mountains
and have it "velcro-ed" to the upper glare shield for fast easy access. When
I need to fly (or can fly between winter storms) - I want my spot available.
I have used it from the Sierra and the SF Bay Area to Israel and all in between
including 2 trans Atlantic crossings. It is a cool thing as there is the immediacy
of contact with people that you know and trust. The bad part is that the
bread crumb deal is only every 15 minutes and that is too long when you are
over mountains. I like to send an, "I'm ok" message every 5-10 minutes or so when
flying over mountains. To do that you must turn the Spot OFF and then turn
it on again - a cumbersome process when you are single pilot and flying over
mountains and talking to ATC. Still, my non-flying wife likes to get the text
messages and the computer messages with the google-earth link.
They have priced it pretty cheap ($149 discounted) and now they have a $169 deal
with few freebees and a 15% service discount. I am due to re-up my service next
month and will do so. Flying in the big uninhabited areas of the West it is
a good thing to have along. Over water I would consider it mandatory. If you
have worry wart relatives, I'd also consider it a near necessity.
No service issues with my 2nd generation model. Overall I'd rate it a B+. They
advertise over 1000 saves (is that just saved lives? who knows) which is pretty
impressive even if it is 1/10 that number. Unless you are just flying MSP to
OSH I would consider it a good value for flying safety.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333290#333290
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spot Messenger Share interest? |
Good. civility has returned and from the right.
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 11:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Spot Messenger Share interest?
>
> I have a Spot Messenger that I have been using for one year. I like it,
> but it is not perfect. I would be disinclined to rent it out as I fly in
> the mountains and have it "velcro-ed" to the upper glare shield for fast
> easy access. When I need to fly (or can fly between winter storms) - I
> want my spot available. I have used it from the Sierra and the SF Bay Area
> to Israel and all in between including 2 trans Atlantic crossings. It is a
> cool thing as there is the immediacy of contact with people that you know
> and trust. The bad part is that the bread crumb deal is only every 15
> minutes and that is too long when you are over mountains. I like to send
> an, "I'm ok" message every 5-10 minutes or so when flying over mountains.
> To do that you must turn the Spot OFF and then turn it on again - a
> cumbersome process when you are single pilot and flying over mountains and
> talking to ATC. Still, my non-flying wife likes to get the text messages
> and the computer messages with the google-e!
> arth link.
>
> They have priced it pretty cheap ($149 discounted) and now they have a
> $169 deal with few freebees and a 15% service discount. I am due to re-up
> my service next month and will do so. Flying in the big uninhabited areas
> of the West it is a good thing to have along. Over water I would consider
> it mandatory. If you have worry wart relatives, I'd also consider it a
> near necessity.
>
> No service issues with my 2nd generation model. Overall I'd rate it a B+.
> They advertise over 1000 saves (is that just saved lives? who knows) which
> is pretty impressive even if it is 1/10 that number. Unless you are just
> flying MSP to OSH I would consider it a good value for flying safety.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '11
> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333290#333290
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
Are you aware that you replied to the whole RV-10 list Thane?
On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:46 PM, Thane States wrote:
>
>
> Fuck off and remove me from your list you scum sucker!!
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "johnsyy11"
>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:53 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month
> filling surveys
>
>
>>
>>
>> With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
>> by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus
>> groups! Get paid
>> to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
>> Quit your day job and be your own boss!
>> Unlimited income potential and rewards!
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how
>> Platinum Survey changed my life. Before I discovered Platinum
>> Survey I was working part-time as a cashier at the local grocer
>> while taking care of my three children; Alex, Patricia, and Jacob.
>> I was having trouble balancing my home life and my work life and I
>> was barely able to make ends meet with my minimum-wage job. I
>> searched the internet trying to find a solution to my financial
>> problems. When I discovered Platinum Survey, I was skeptical at
>> first. What set me at ease was their 60-day money back guarantee.
>> Not only that, but they said I could keep all of the money and
>> gifts that I received from the companies I helped. So I decided to
>> give them a shot and now 6 months have passed. I quit my job at
>> the grocer and work 7 hours a week earning $800.00 a week. That?
>> Ts 5 times what I was making slaving away at the local mart.
>> What?Ts neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what
>> surveys I want to do. I can also pick how many surveys I want to
>> do per day or week and I don?Tt have to worry about finishing
>> them quickly because there are no time-limits to worry about. I
>> have also participated in 2 online focus groups which were a lot
>> of fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of my time, in case you
>> were curious.
>>
>> quit you day job now.
>>
>> join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
Gee you don't say Pascal, thanks for the schooling. I don't think I am the
first one to make a posting mistake. I have kids also, but they don't read
my e-mail for one. I can see the mistake I made without you telling me,
that I am a dim whit!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling
surveys
>
> Thane;
> It's a virus! do yourself a favor reply to the sender not the forum next
> time my 2 year doesn't appreciate reading these comments!
>
> Konrad;
> You wanted a lively group ;-) this is VERY unusual
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thane States
> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 3:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling
> surveys
>
>
> Fuck off and remove me from your list you scum sucker!!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "johnsyy11" <johnsyy.richn2011(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:53 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling
> surveys
>
>
>>
>>
>> With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
>> by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus groups! Get
>> paid
>> to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
>> Quit your day job and be your own boss!
>> Unlimited income potential and rewards!
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how Platinum
>> Survey changed my life. Before I discovered Platinum Survey I was working
>> part-time as a cashier at the local grocer while taking care of my three
>> children; Alex, Patricia, and Jacob. I was having trouble balancing my
>> home life and my work life and I was barely able to make ends meet with
>> my minimum-wage job. I searched the internet trying to find a solution to
>> my financial problems. When I discovered Platinum Survey, I was skeptical
>> at first. What set me at ease was their 60-day money back guarantee. Not
>> only that, but they said I could keep all of the money and gifts that I
>> received from the companies I helped. So I decided to give them a shot
>> and now 6 months have passed. I quit my job at the grocer and work 7
>> hours a week earning $800.00 a week. That?Ts 5 times what I was making
>> slaving away at the local mart.
>> What?Ts neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what surveys I
>> want to do. I can also pick how many surveys I want to do per day or week
>> and I don?Tt have to worry about finishing them quickly because there
>> are no time-limits to worry about. I have also participated in 2 online
>> focus groups which were a lot of fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of
>> my time, in case you were curious.
>>
>> quit you day job now.
>>
>> join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
That's a bright two year old! Maybe he can help me with this Garmin manual!
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 9, 2011, at 14:45, "Thane States" wrote:
>
> Gee you don't say Pascal, thanks for the schooling. I don't think I am the first
one to make a posting mistake. I have kids also, but they don't read my
e-mail for one. I can see the mistake I made without you telling me, that I
am a dim whit!!
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 7:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>
>
>>
>> Thane;
>> It's a virus! do yourself a favor reply to the sender not the forum next time
my 2 year doesn't appreciate reading these comments!
>>
>> Konrad;
>> You wanted a lively group ;-) this is VERY unusual
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Thane States
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 3:46 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>>
>>
>>
>> Fuck off and remove me from your list you scum sucker!!
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "johnsyy11" <johnsyy.richn2011(at)yahoo.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:53 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>>
>>
>>>
>>> With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
>>> by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus groups! Get paid
>>> to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
>>> Quit your day job and be your own boss!
>>> Unlimited income potential and rewards!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how Platinum Survey
changed my life. Before I discovered Platinum Survey I was working part-time
as a cashier at the local grocer while taking care of my three children; Alex,
Patricia, and Jacob. I was having trouble balancing my home life and my work
life and I was barely able to make ends meet with my minimum-wage job. I searched
the internet trying to find a solution to my financial problems. When I
discovered Platinum Survey, I was skeptical at first. What set me at ease was
their 60-day money back guarantee. Not only that, but they said I could keep all
of the money and gifts that I received from the companies I helped. So I decided
to give them a shot and now 6 months have passed. I quit my job at the grocer
and work 7 hours a week earning $800.00 a week. That?Ts 5 times what I was
making slaving away at the local mart.
>>> What?Ts neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what surveys I want to
do. I can also pick how many surveys I want to do per day or week and I don?Tt
have to worry about finishing them quickly because there are no time-limits
to worry about. I have also participated in 2 online focus groups which were
a lot of fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of my time, in case you were curious.
>>>
>>> quit you day job now.
>>>
>>> join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
| From: | James McGrew <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
Thane,
You just sent that message out to the entire list as well.
-Jim
On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 2:45 PM, Thane States wrote:
>
> Gee you don't say Pascal, thanks for the schooling. I don't think I am t
he
> first one to make a posting mistake. I have kids also, but they don't r
ead
> my e-mail for one. I can see the mistake I made without you telling me,
> that I am a dim whit!!
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 7:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling
> surveys
>
>
>>
>> Thane;
>> It's a virus! do yourself a favor reply to the sender not the forum nex
t
>> time my 2 year doesn't appreciate reading these comments!
>>
>> Konrad;
>> You wanted a lively group ;-) this is VERY unusual
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Thane States
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 3:46 PM
>>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling
>> surveys
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Fuck off and remove me from your list you scum sucker!!
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "johnsyy11" <
>> johnsyy.richn2011(at)yahoo.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:53 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling
>> surveys
>>
>>
m
>>> >
>>>
>>> With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
>>> by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus groups! Ge
t
>>> paid
>>> to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
>>> Quit your day job and be your own boss!
>>> Unlimited income potential and rewards!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how Platinum
>>> Survey changed my life. Before I discovered Platinum Survey I was worki
ng
>>> part-time as a cashier at the local grocer while taking care of my thre
e
>>> children; Alex, Patricia, and Jacob. I was having trouble balancing my
home
>>> life and my work life and I was barely able to make ends meet with my
>>> minimum-wage job. I searched the internet trying to find a solution to
my
>>> financial problems. When I discovered Platinum Survey, I was skeptical
at
>>> first. What set me at ease was their 60-day money back guarantee. Not o
nly
>>> that, but they said I could keep all of the money and gifts that I rece
ived
>>> from the companies I helped. So I decided to give them a shot and now 6
>>> months have passed. I quit my job at the grocer and work 7 hours a week
>>> earning $800.00 a week. That?Ts 5 times what I was making slaving aw
ay at
>>> the local mart.
>>> What?Ts neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what surveys I
>>> want to do. I can also pick how many surveys I want to do per day or we
ek
>>> and I don?Tt have to worry about finishing them quickly because ther
e are
>>> no time-limits to worry about. I have also participated in 2 online foc
us
>>> groups which were a lot of fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of my ti
me,
>>> in case you were curious.
>>>
>>> quit you day job now.
>>>
>>> join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Heck, the downtown Chicago kids ask for breakfast with that kind of talk. ;)
Seano, don't worry, nobody will be able to read those garmin manuals soon anyway,
if they sell off to china like all these aviation companies are doing...they'll
all be in Chinese.;)
On Mar 9, 2011, at 4:15 PM, Seano wrote:
>
> That's a bright two year old! Maybe he can help me with this Garmin manual!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 9, 2011, at 14:45, "Thane States" wrote:
>
>>
>> Gee you don't say Pascal, thanks for the schooling. I don't think I am the
first one to make a posting mistake. I have kids also, but they don't read my
e-mail for one. I can see the mistake I made without you telling me, that I
am a dim whit!!
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 7:09 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Thane;
>>> It's a virus! do yourself a favor reply to the sender not the forum next time
my 2 year doesn't appreciate reading these comments!
>>>
>>> Konrad;
>>> You wanted a lively group ;-) this is VERY unusual
>>>
>>> -----Original Message----- From: Thane States
>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 3:46 PM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Fuck off and remove me from your list you scum sucker!!
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "johnsyy11" <johnsyy.richn2011(at)yahoo.com>
>>> To:
>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:53 PM
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
>>>> by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus groups! Get paid
>>>> to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
>>>> Quit your day job and be your own boss!
>>>> Unlimited income potential and rewards!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how Platinum Survey
changed my life. Before I discovered Platinum Survey I was working part-time
as a cashier at the local grocer while taking care of my three children; Alex,
Patricia, and Jacob. I was having trouble balancing my home life and my work
life and I was barely able to make ends meet with my minimum-wage job. I searched
the internet trying to find a solution to my financial problems. When I
discovered Platinum Survey, I was skeptical at first. What set me at ease was
their 60-day money back guarantee. Not only that, but they said I could keep
all of the money and gifts that I received from the companies I helped. So I decided
to give them a shot and now 6 months have passed. I quit my job at the
grocer and work 7 hours a week earning $800.00 a week. That?Ts 5 times what I
was making slaving away at the local mart.
>>>> What?Ts neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what surveys I want
to do. I can also pick how many surveys I want to do per day or week and I don?Tt
have to worry about finishing them quickly because there are no time-limits
to worry about. I have also participated in 2 online focus groups which were
a lot of fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of my time, in case you were curious.
>>>>
>>>> quit you day job now.
>>>>
>>>> join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | injector cleaning |
The ONE wants civility so maybe we can get back to technical questions for
the RV10. How and how often are the injectors being cleaned? I would rather
not find a clogged or intermittent injector on takeoff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: injector cleaning |
| From: | Sohrab Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Don't know how often, guess as often as you care to dismantle thing. Soak in gun
cleaner.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 9, 2011, at 3:59 PM, "DLM" wrote:
>
> The ONE wants civility so maybe we can get back to technical questions for the
RV10. How and how often are the injectors being cleaned? I would rather not
find a clogged or intermittent injector on takeoff.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: injector cleaning |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Dave, I don't see any need to mess with the injectors on my Mooney
more than every 200 hours or so. If you still have the same mixture
spread leaning from rich of peak to lean of peak that you had after
last cleaning, they are fine. You can easily tell from EGT traces if
an injector begins to behave a bit differently. The injector lines
will only tolerate so much bending when injectors are removed and
replaced, and frequent disassembly doesn't do the threads in the
cylinder heads or spyder any good either. I'd go on condition based on
EGT results.
On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 3:59 PM, DLM wrote:
>
> The ONE wants civility so maybe we can get back to technical questions for
> the RV10. How and how often are the injectors being cleaned? I would rather
> not find a clogged or intermittent injector on takeoff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: injector cleaning |
Mine my have gone 400 hours so plan to clean this annual; also have a new
set of plugs ready.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: injector cleaning
>
> Dave, I don't see any need to mess with the injectors on my Mooney
> more than every 200 hours or so. If you still have the same mixture
> spread leaning from rich of peak to lean of peak that you had after
> last cleaning, they are fine. You can easily tell from EGT traces if
> an injector begins to behave a bit differently. The injector lines
> will only tolerate so much bending when injectors are removed and
> replaced, and frequent disassembly doesn't do the threads in the
> cylinder heads or spyder any good either. I'd go on condition based on
> EGT results.
>
> On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 3:59 PM, DLM wrote:
>>
>> The ONE wants civility so maybe we can get back to technical questions
>> for
>> the RV10. How and how often are the injectors being cleaned? I would
>> rather
>> not find a clogged or intermittent injector on takeoff.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys |
I have deleted the original poster's email address from the list. I suspect that
they actually just have a virus that is using their PC as a reflector for third
party spam.
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
At 02:35 PM 3/9/2011 Wednesday, you wrote:
>
>Heck, the downtown Chicago kids ask for breakfast with that kind of talk. ;)
>Seano, don't worry, nobody will be able to read those garmin manuals soon anyway,
if they sell off to china like all these aviation companies are doing...they'll
all be in Chinese.;)
>
>
>On Mar 9, 2011, at 4:15 PM, Seano wrote:
>
>>
>> That's a bright two year old! Maybe he can help me with this Garmin manual!
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 9, 2011, at 14:45, "Thane States" wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Gee you don't say Pascal, thanks for the schooling. I don't think I am the
first one to make a posting mistake. I have kids also, but they don't read
my e-mail for one. I can see the mistake I made without you telling me, that
I am a dim whit!!
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
>>> To:
>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 7:09 PM
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thane;
>>>> It's a virus! do yourself a favor reply to the sender not the forum next
time my 2 year doesn't appreciate reading these comments!
>>>>
>>>> Konrad;
>>>> You wanted a lively group ;-) this is VERY unusual
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message----- From: Thane States
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 3:46 PM
>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Fuck off and remove me from your list you scum sucker!!
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "johnsyy11" <johnsyy.richn2011(at)yahoo.com>
>>>> To:
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:53 PM
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Data entry job from home $4000 per month filling surveys
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> With Platinum Survey you can make up to $4,000 a month
>>>>> by just filling out online surveys or participating in focus groups! Get
paid
>>>>> to read, shop, test drive vehicles, eat, or play!
>>>>> Quit your day job and be your own boss!
>>>>> Unlimited income potential and rewards!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi, my name is Mary Donnelly and I want to tell you about how Platinum Survey
changed my life. Before I discovered Platinum Survey I was working part-time
as a cashier at the local grocer while taking care of my three children; Alex,
Patricia, and Jacob. I was having trouble balancing my home life and my work
life and I was barely able to make ends meet with my minimum-wage job. I searched
the internet trying to find a solution to my financial problems. When
I discovered Platinum Survey, I was skeptical at first. What set me at ease was
their 60-day money back guarantee. Not only that, but they said I could keep
all of the money and gifts that I received from the companies I helped. So I
decided to give them a shot and now 6 months have passed. I quit my job at the
grocer and work 7 hours a week earning $800.00 a week. That?Ts 5 times what I
was making slaving away at the local mart.
>>>>> What?Ts neat about Platinum Survey is that I can pick what surveys I want
to do. I can also pick how many surveys I want to do per day or week and I don?Tt
have to worry about finishing them quickly because there are no time-limits
to worry about. I have also participated in 2 online focus groups which were
a lot of fun. I got paid $300.00 for 2 hours of my time, in case you were curious.
>>>>>
>>>>> quit you day job now.
>>>>>
>>>>> join today >> http://tinyurl.com/4j254cm
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333256#333256
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish Kit Delivered |
| From: | "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu> |
Received the finish kit today and just finished the inventory. Can't completely
understand where the 14G went, but they are all parts needed to fly.
For those who are interested, the serial number on the front seats is 788, and
serial number of the doors are 751 and 760. I am builder number 784, and have
a bit over three years into the project, having completed one kit a year. So,
with finish kit serial numbers this high, we are looking at a sizable fleet of
RV-10s flying soon.
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333407#333407
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Delivered |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
A little RV-10 fly-in at Johnson Creek, ID is just an engine, prop and avionics
away for us and the kids. Now get to work on those doors. I am getting ready
to pull one door off and see what the damages look like. Then epoxy the next one
on if all looks good on the first. Have a good weekend.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333502#333502
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Delivered |
I know of 2 RV10's that WILL be flying into Johnson Creek, ID the week of t
he =0A4th of July....- come and join a group of us in RV's fron the Pecan
Plantation, =0AGranbury TX.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________
_______________=0AFrom: rv10flyer <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>=0ATo: rv10-li
st(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, March 10, 2011 8:19:39 PM=0ASubject: RV10-Lis
r" =0A=0AA little RV-10 fly-in at Johnson Creek,
ID is just an engine, prop and avionics =0Aaway for us and the kids. Now g
et to work on those doors. I am getting ready to =0Apull one door off and s
ee what the damages look like. Then epoxy the next one on =0Aif all looks g
ood on the first. Have a good weekend.=0A=0A--------=0AWayne Gillispie, A&a
mp;P 5/93, PPC 10/08=0ABldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.=0AFuselage Sec 45 Do
ors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online
here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333502#333502=0A
=========================0A
===================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Another RV-10 takes to the air. |
At about 4pm central standard time at KUES, kit #40496 flew to 4,200 feet for about
16 minutes. Everything worked and it flew great. #1 cylinder was a bit
hot on climb but settled down after leveling off.
Man did it feel good to bring the whole project to the final step. Thanks to everyone
on the list who provided me with information and help over the last 5
years. What a ride! See you at Oshkosh.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-10 takes to the air. |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Mega kuddos. A real sense of accomplishment. Now the real fun begins. Fly it often
and be careful. Pull that cowling and check carefully after each of your early
flights. Hint on the temp. Cut down the wind dam on the 2 front cylinders
- might help the temps. Had the same issue on the 1st couple of flights.
well done - Lets see those pics.......
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333591#333591
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Received new engine, questions |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Received my new Mattituck Red/Gold TMX IO-540, feels great but have some questions.
1) Wondering if there will be a problem with the angled oil filter adaptor
so close to the firewall, 2) I have a McCaulley prop governor I was going
to use on my RV6 but never did, is there any reason I can't use it on this 540
with Hartzell blended airfoil?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333593#333593
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_filter_adaptor_189.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2006X oil cooler question |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard Aero-Classic
or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in oil cooling?
>From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch engraving,
all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, with the exception
that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly tighter packed
giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of cooler are 13-row coolers,
and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the others side by side, the Aero-Classic
and 2006X even have some of the same stamping marks on the parts....looks
like two letter persons initials.
I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're not blindly
cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had brand/model X, and when
I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil temps.
I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could put the oil
cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough in the winter
but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see definite changes (lowering)
of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I need real evidence that
there will be a difference, before i install these things, because from a construction
difference, I just don't see it.
Anyone?
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 2006X oil cooler question |
I had the Niagara and switched to the 206x. I saw about a 10 to 15 degree
drop in oil temps. I did not put in their flow splitter thing in front of
the cooler.
Hope that helps.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 1:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in oil
cooling?
>From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, with
the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the same
stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're not
blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had brand/model X,
and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
temps.
I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could put the
oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough in the
winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see definite
changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I need
real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
Anyone?
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Cool. That's the kind of thing I wanted to hear. I just bit the bullet and mounted
mine so I'm crossing my fingers. Did the Niagara look physically the same
pretty much too?
Tim
On Mar 12, 2011, at 2:25 PM, "gary" wrote:
>
> I had the Niagara and switched to the 206x. I saw about a 10 to 15 degree
> drop in oil temps. I did not put in their flow splitter thing in front of
> the cooler.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 1:53 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>
>
> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in oil
> cooling?
>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, with
> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the same
> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>
>
> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're not
> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had brand/model X,
> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
> temps.
>
> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could put the
> oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough in the
> winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see definite
> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I need
> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>
> Anyone?
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)me.com> |
Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last 250 hrs
I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
Robert Brunkenhoefer
Sent from my Apple iPad
On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard Aero-Classic
or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in oil cooling?
>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch engraving,
all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, with the exception
that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly tighter packed
giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of cooler are 13-row
coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the others side by side, the
Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the same stamping marks on the parts....looks
like two letter persons initials.
>
> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're not blindly
cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had brand/model X, and when
I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil temps.
>
> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could put the oil
cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough in the winter
but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see definite changes (lowering)
of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I need real evidence
that there will be a difference, before i install these things, because from a
construction difference, I just don't see it.
>
> Anyone?
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 2006X oil cooler question |
Yup looked the same. I was pissed when I first saw it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
Cool. That's the kind of thing I wanted to hear. I just bit the bullet and
mounted mine so I'm crossing my fingers. Did the Niagara look physically
the same pretty much too?
Tim
On Mar 12, 2011, at 2:25 PM, "gary" wrote:
>
> I had the Niagara and switched to the 206x. I saw about a 10 to 15 degree
> drop in oil temps. I did not put in their flow splitter thing in front of
> the cooler.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 1:53 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>
>
> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in
oil
> cooling?
>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side,
with
> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the same
> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>
>
> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're not
> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had brand/model
X,
> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
> temps.
>
> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could put
the
> oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough in
the
> winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see definite
> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I need
> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>
> Anyone?
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Received new engine, questions |
| From: | "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu> |
Dave, I don't know the answers to your questions, as you are ahead of me, but I
also have a McCaulley governor, and had assumed it will work. Hopefully someone
can confirm this for us.
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333659#333659
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Received new engine, questions |
If it were me I would see if it fits on the engine. Get the model number and
contact McCauley Product Support at 1-800-621-7767.
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Turner
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Received new engine, questions
Dave, I don't know the answers to your questions, as you are ahead of me,
but I also have a McCaulley governor, and had assumed it will work.
Hopefully someone can confirm this for us.
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333659#333659
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip coming so
I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the promises, I'll be happy...then
I'll add that controller flap.
Tim
On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
>
> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last 250 hrs
I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>
> Robert Brunkenhoefer
> Sent from my Apple iPad
>
> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard Aero-Classic
or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in oil cooling?
>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch engraving,
all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, with the exception
that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly tighter packed
giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of cooler are 13-row
coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the others side by side, the
Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the same stamping marks on the parts....looks
like two letter persons initials.
>>
>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're not blindly
cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had brand/model X, and
when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil temps.
>>
>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could put the
oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough in the winter
but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see definite changes (lowering)
of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I need real evidence
that there will be a difference, before i install these things, because from
a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>
>> Anyone?
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | 2006X oil cooler question |
Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a scientific
manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a trip
to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem and
replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature decrease.....lets
say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up
above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I installed.
This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at takeoff....I
have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max oil
temps have been a little over 200f.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip
coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the promises,
I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
Tim
On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer
wrote:
> -->
>
> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last
> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>
> Robert Brunkenhoefer
> Sent from my Apple iPad
>
> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in oil
cooling?
>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, with
the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the same
stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>>
>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're not
blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had brand/model X,
and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
temps.
>>
>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could put
the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough in
the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see definite
changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I need
real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>
>> Anyone?
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Received new engine, questions |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
The standard angled oil filter adapter from Mattituck does fit the engine mount.
When installing the engine, you need to swing the back of the engine down and
under the engine mount bar, but it does fit with plenty of clearance. It's
much better to change the oil with the angled adapter than with the straight
adapter, which puts the back of the oil filter just aft of flush with the firewall
(sticking into the firewall box just slightly).
I can't speak to the prop governor, as I have only used the MT from Van's, but
I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. You may need to do some adjustments
as have been necessary with some of the MT's, but that should be all. I'm
no governor expert, however, so you might want to talk to one of those.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:41 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
> Received my new Mattituck Red/Gold TMX IO-540, feels great but have some questions.
1) Wondering if there will be a problem with the angled oil filter adaptor
so close to the firewall, 2) I have a McCaulley prop governor I was going
to use on my RV6 but never did, is there any reason I can't use it on this
540 with Hartzell blended airfoil?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333593#333593
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_filter_adaptor_189.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Received new engine, questions |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Thanks, just the information I was looking for.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333686#333686
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
Hi Rene',
I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one.
Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through
all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there
were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference,
I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
it optimal.
Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
and then could trim it a little.
Tim
On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene"
>
> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a scientific
> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a trip
> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem and
> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature decrease.....lets
> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>
> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up
> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I installed.
> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at takeoff....I
> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max oil
> temps have been a little over 200f.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip
> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the promises,
> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
> Tim
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer
> wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer
>> -->
>>
>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last
>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>>
>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>
>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>>
>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in oil
> cooling?
>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side, with
> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the same
> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>>>
>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're not
> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had brand/model X,
> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
> temps.
>>>
>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could put
> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough in
> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see definite
> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I need
> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>>
>>> Anyone?
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | 2006X oil cooler question |
Tim,
I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion
on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance
before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open.
As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it
is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he
purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer tomorrow.
http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2
02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
Hi Rene',
I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one.
Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through
all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there
were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference,
I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
it optimal.
Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
and then could trim it a little.
Tim
On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene"
>
> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a
scientific
> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a
trip
> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem
and
> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature
decrease.....lets
> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>
> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up
> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I
installed.
> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at
takeoff....I
> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max
oil
> temps have been a little over 200f.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip
> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the
promises,
> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
> Tim
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer
> wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer
>> -->
>>
>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last
>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>>
>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>
>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>>
>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in
oil
> cooling?
>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side,
with
> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the
same
> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>>>
>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're
not
> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had
brand/model X,
> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
> temps.
>>>
>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could
put
> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough
in
> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see
definite
> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I
need
> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>>
>>> Anyone?
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great.
I mounted mine on the oil cooler
Mount and it works great. I installed
Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with or without.
It does work really good
On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours.
I can adjust the valve to run my oil
Temps where I want to. It takes around
5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. In the winter
below around 25f I usually have
It closed almost all the way. Temps
Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little less on the
temps. I do have the 2006x installed and
No baffle splitter in the cooler mount.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Tim,
> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion
> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance
> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open.
> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it
> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he
> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer tomorrow.
>
> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2
> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product
>
> Robin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>
>
> Hi Rene',
> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one.
> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through
> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there
> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference,
> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
>
> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
> it optimal.
>
> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
>
> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
> and then could trim it a little.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene"
>>
>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a
> scientific
>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a
> trip
>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem
> and
>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature
> decrease.....lets
>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>>
>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up
>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I
> installed.
>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at
> takeoff....I
>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max
> oil
>> temps have been a little over 200f.
>>
>> Rene'
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip
>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the
> promises,
>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer
>> wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>> -->
>>>
>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last
>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>>>
>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>>
>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>>>
>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in
> oil
>> cooling?
>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side,
> with
>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the
> same
>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>>>>
>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're
> not
>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had
> brand/model X,
>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
>> temps.
>>>>
>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could
> put
>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough
> in
>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see
> definite
>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I
> need
>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>>>
>>>> Anyone?
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
Sounds good to me. I was planning to install it on the filter box
too. I think today I may go fly the plane quick, verify temps,
and leak check the cooler and lines that I just swapped...then
come back and install the valve.
Tim
On 3/13/2011 8:44 AM, g.combs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "g.combs"
>
> Tim I have the same valve you purchased and it does work great.
> I mounted mine on the oil cooler
> Mount and it works great. I installed
> Mine at around 30 hrs. I saw no change in temps at fully opened with or without.
It does work really good
> On my engine and cowling set up which is almost identical to yours.
> I can adjust the valve to run my oil
> Temps where I want to. It takes around
> 5-6 minutes to have it change and start to settle after adjustment. In the winter
below around 25f I usually have
> It closed almost all the way. Temps
> Get to max around 185 after 30 minutes at cruise.sometimes a little less on the
temps. I do have the 2006x installed and
> No baffle splitter in the cooler mount.
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone Geoff
>
>
> On Mar 13, 2011, at 1:23 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks
>>
>> Tim,
>> I installed the 2008X as you may know so I can't offer any opinion
>> on your situation other than to let you know we did not see any chance
>> before/after installing the butterfly valve when the valve is full open.
>> As for blue aeroduct tubing this is where we purchased ours but it
>> is in 12' lengths. I think a friend recently told me about a place he
>> purchases it by the foot. I will email him now. Maybe an answer tomorrow.
>>
>> http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm?key=Aeroduct%20Hose%20-%20Colored%2
>> 02-Ply%20Silicone%20&form_prod_id=3171&action=product
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 8:10 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>> Hi Rene',
>> I know I couldn't really ask for a real scientific answer on that one.
>> Not many people would actually swap coolers in one day and go through
>> all the work to verify an exact drop in temps. I just figured if there
>> were a handful of people who actually tried both and saw a difference,
>> I could get a feel for it. That way their break-in, baffling,
>> and all that doesn't really matter much...what matters is if they
>> saw lower temps after the new cooler. I also didn't just want
>> people who have ONLY had that cooler to report, because when
>> you've only used ONE cooler, you don't really have a way know that
>> you really have any difference. Besides, everything I could read
>> about it just said that it has "X % greater cooling than similar
>> sized coolers". That's not very scientific...you'd really need
>> to specify WHICH coolers. I'm sure there are some really crappy
>> coolers of similar size out there. But when I saw mine was nearly
>> identical in construction, I just got worried that I may have
>> wasted some good dollars. From the few replies so far though,
>> it sounds like it may actually be a good deal.
>>
>> I'm right there with you on the airflow control valve. That was
>> also part of my hangup. I didn't want to install the new cooler
>> and have my oil be even MORE too cool on the winter days.
>> As it was, it can get in the high 160's on cold flights. So
>> I figured if I actually got -10 degrees out of it, I would do it
>> with the control valve. That way I can do as you do and keep
>> it optimal.
>>
>> Which valve did you use? I am very slightly worried that
>> installing any valve may add a little restriction even at
>> full-open, but I may just be paranoid there. That's also why
>> I didn't want to add the valve unless I had the best cooler
>> I could get. I bought the nonstopaviation.com valve.
>> So far I did figure out a way to mount it on the cooler
>> housing itself that would work, but mounting it on the
>> back of the baffle gives too much interference with my
>> engine mount for my satisfaction from the looks of it.
>>
>> Don M, if you're reading this, do you know where I can
>> get some 4" SCAT tubing in Blue? I thought at one time
>> you had a source for that. I'm guessing I'd buy 18"
>> and then could trim it a little.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 3/12/2011 7:47 PM, Rene wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene"
>>>
>>> Tim, you might be asking a question that is hard to answer in a
>> scientific
>>> manner. Since there are so many variables that could affect the
>>> outcome.........engine break in, baffling improvements, etc. After a
>> trip
>>> to Vegas I decided that I could not live with my oil temperature problem
>> and
>>> replaced the oil cooler. I saw a general oil temperature
>> decrease.....lets
>>> say 10 degrees....on the hot climb outs.
>>>
>>> One other point....with the new cooler, I could not get the oil temps up
>>> above 180 in the winter without using the airflow control valve I
>> installed.
>>> This past winter, on Utah cold days.........lets say 20-30f at
>> takeoff....I
>>> have been flying with all the air flow cut off to the oil cooler. Max
>> oil
>>> temps have been a little over 200f.
>>>
>>> Rene'
>>> 801-721-6080
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 5:44 PM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2006X oil cooler question
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>>
>>> Super. I have it installed. Will fly it tomorrow and soon have a trip
>>> coming so I'll know for sure after that. If it lives up to the
>> promises,
>>> I'll be happy...then I'll add that controller flap.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 4:23 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>>> -->
>>>>
>>>> Tim, I was having cooling problems early on and switched. For the last
>>>> 250 hrs I have had no cooling troubles. Fwiw robert 661g 325hrs KCRP
>>>>
>>>> Robert Brunkenhoefer
>>>> Sent from my Apple iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 12, 2011, at 12:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>>>>
>>>>> Has anyone actually SWITCHED to the 2006X oil cooler from the standard
>>> Aero-Classic or the Niagara, and actually seen a definite improvement in
>> oil
>>> cooling?
>>>>>> From the cooler body, everything from the machining, stamping, punch
>>> engraving, all parts, and everything else looks identical side-by-side,
>> with
>>> the exception that the 2006X seems to have the thin WWWWWW fins slightly
>>> tighter packed giving about 10 more V's worth per row. All 3 brands of
>>> cooler are 13-row coolers, and while I haven't seen the Niagara and the
>>> others side by side, the Aero-Classic and 2006X even have some of the
>> same
>>> stamping marks on the parts....looks like two letter persons initials.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't want comments like "I have this one and it's great"....we're
>> not
>>> blindly cheerleading. I want real hard examples like "I had
>> brand/model X,
>>> and when I switched to Y, I saw a definite decrease (or increase) in oil
>>> temps.
>>>>>
>>>>> I bought the 2006X based on the claims of lowered temps, so I could
>> put
>>> the oil cooler gate valve in and adjust the temps to keep it warm enough
>> in
>>> the winter but cool in the summer....but if I'm not going to see
>> definite
>>> changes (lowering) of temps, I'm not going to install either item. I
>> need
>>> real evidence that there will be a difference, before i install these
>>> things, because from a construction difference, I just don't see it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyone?
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | 2006X oil cooler question |
Summer air temps are well into the 100's here in Yuma and I had high oil
temps from the start. The usual inversion layer often gives us a 10 deg temp
rise on climb out so it takes awhile to get to cooler air. I swapped out the
original cooler for the 2006X but didn't get enough cooling. I then
installed a second cooler (2006X) on the right side using the same parts as
the left side. Had to turn the starter solenoid sideways but otherwise there
was enough room. Running in series 2 coolers seem to have solved my problem.
My engine is a 10:1 with 1 Lightspeed at 315hp. Still have to careful of
temps on the ground though. Once I had to wait for 12 F-18s to leave before
me and I was getting a little worried. In general though, the additional
cooler has solved my high oil temp problem.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-10 takes to the air. |
Way to fo Dave, welcome aboard.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________
__________________=0AFrom: David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>=0ATo: RV-10
matronics =0ASent: Fri, March 11, 2011 10:56:16 PM
=0ASubject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 takes to the air.=0A=0A--> RV10-List m
essage posted by: David Leikam =0A=0AAt about 4pm cen
tral standard time at KUES, kit #40496 flew to 4,200 feet for =0Aabout 16 m
inutes.- Everything worked and it flew great.- #1 cylinder was a bit
=0Ahot on climb but settled down after leveling off.=0AMan did it feel good
to bring the whole project to the final step.- Thanks to =0Aeveryone on
the list who provided me with information and help over the last 5 =0Ayears
.- What a ride!- See you at Oshkosh.=0A=0ADavid Leikam=0ARV10 =0AN89DA
======================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing
it twice.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. Mine were a
bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling
on them. I used an awl through some of the holes to help pull.
When clecoing, riveting you may notice that they do not line up perfectly with
stiffeners below. Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect.
I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill and rivet.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron&Donya" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
As I recall a thin putty knife worked well for me. Helps act as a ramp to
slide over the rivets. Nice tight fit once in place..
Byron
N253RV Phase 1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans
I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing
it twice.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
There were a few places where the parts were a tight fit. I don't recall that one
being impossible. Just keep trying from different sides and go easy. I'm sure
you'll get it in.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333772#333772
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
Ya, once I get them in there, there's no way I am going to try and get
them out. I think I will final drill, dimple, nutplates, prime , etc.
then put them in and say its good.
Now just to figure out how to get them in there in the first place. :)
-Sean
On 3/13/11 3:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"
>
> Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. Mine were
a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the flanges on the sides when
pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl through some of the holes to help pull.
When clecoing, riveting you may notice that they do not line up perfectly with
stiffeners below. Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to
perfect.
>
> I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill and rivet.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
Ok, figured out why I was having a hard time. This was another Doh!
moment for me. The shop heads were on the wrong side of the seat belt
attach brackets. One I fixed those, which was not fun at all, it went
in a lot easier. Oh well, not my first Doh! moment, but I'm running out
of parts, so maybe my last?
Thanks everyone and go easy on me. :)
-Sean #40303
On 3/13/11 3:40 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Ya, once I get them in there, there's no way I am going to try and get
> them out. I think I will final drill, dimple, nutplates, prime ,
> etc. then put them in and say its good.
>
> Now just to figure out how to get them in there in the first place. :)
>
> -Sean
>
> On 3/13/11 3:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rv10flyer"
>>
>> Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad.
>> Mine were a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the
>> flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl
>> through some of the holes to help pull. When clecoing, riveting you
>> may notice that they do not line up perfectly with stiffeners below.
>> Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect.
>>
>> I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill
>> and rivet.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
>> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
>> Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Sure now that you say that, it reminds me we had one side with the shop heads also.
With one side only I think we managed. It sure would have been easier with
both sides. Guess we had a DOH moment back then also. Sorry I could not remember
to advise you, but you figured it out and I'm sure that's better.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333799#333799
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
I used thin aluminum sheets as guides.. it allowed it to slip right
over the rivets, I then used them again to pull them out. Be very
careful or the floor pan will fold in half (ask me how I know)
John #40923
On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 2:53 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place. The
> rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread apart
> the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to do the
> job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing it twice.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
I realized trying to get them in the first time that once in,,,,they would be near
impossible to remove after match drilling without damaging them,,, so I just
reamed all the holes with them out, de-burred and primed, then shoe horned
them in. All the holes lined up perfect for the rivets.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:53:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans
I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing
it twice.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Floor Pans |
removing them is possible as the QB kits used to come with them
installed with a few blinds.
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans
I realized trying to get them in the first time that once in,,,,they
would be near impossible to remove after match drilling without damaging
them,,, so I just reamed all the holes with them out, de-burred and
primed, then shoe horned them in. All the holes lined up perfect for
the rivets.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 2:53:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Floor Pans
I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into
place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to
spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough
to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading
doing
it twice.
-Seabsp;
-===============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
I have one Bose X headset for sale that is the plane powered style. It is in
great shape.
I am selling it for $500.
It does not come with the connector that goes into the plane but they can be
purchased for $31.95.
Let me know, my e-mail and is below.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
I did get a very preliminary flight today after installing the 2006X
oil cooler. I flew last Friday for an hour, and I was able to get
185-187F out of the original Aero-Classics oil cooler. The weather
that day was high 20's-low 30's F. That would be perfect for me,
if it stayed there year round.
Yesterday I flew with the 2006X oil cooler, although only maybe .4
or so hours. It was maybe 20F out, but maybe a little less. I
flew until I hit 174 or 175F and it didn't climb very fast in temp
at all. I got the feeling that the 2006X cooler did indeed cool
a little more than the other, but the day was colder too, so it
was hard to tell.
Today I installed the Nonstopaviation.com control valve, and went
for a quick flight of only .3 or .4 hours. I kept the valve
closed until the oil temp hit 190F after takeoff. Then I set
the valve wide open and it went down under 180F for a bit, and
then climbed back up to 183F or so after a couple minutes.
The weather outside was a little warmer today...ground temps
were in the 30's....and I believe slightly warmer than
Friday.
Now, none of this is scientific, but, it does appear that even
with just looking at this tiny snapshot in time that isn't
very well compared, that the 2006X cooler does drop the temps
a little....maybe at least 4 degrees, but just guessing by
the way it reacted to going full open, it could be more
towards 7 or even 8 degrees F lower. I don't know that I'll
believe it'll do 15F lower, but something in the neighborhood
of 5-10F is probably likely.
Now, again, this is only a very very small snapshot in time.
I'll have to play with it on some longer flights, especially
when I get on vacation in a couple weeks where it's warmer,
and see how the temps look now. At present though, I'm
thinking that Nonstopaviation.com valve is probably a pretty
nice thing to have for us cold-weather fliers (or for LOP
flying at higher altitudes on cold days) to keep the oil
temp in the good range, and that the 2006X cooler is
probably worth the added $$$ if you drop the Van's standard
cooler from the parts list and order that one instead.
I got it from Alex at rvtraining.com, and I see it's also
available at other places. So, if I were starting from
scratch, I'd buy that cooler initially first. My other
cooler did work ok for me, and many other folks, but if
there is something better, then I guess that's the way to
go.
This is just all preliminary, but anyway, it was interesting
for me.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Today I installed the Nonstopaviation.com control valve, and ...
Sure am looking forward to seeing your valve installation pictures. This winter
I can't get my temps up above 170 and most of the time 160. I also have the
2006X.
Looks like I am going to have to install the valve also.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333943#333943
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Light(er)-weight Prop Lock |
In anticipation of an upcoming trip, I wanted a propeller lock.
I spent a lot of time thinking about it, and finally found a
solution that wasn't ultra expensive or ultra heavy.
Thought you may want to see:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/accessories/Prop_Lock/index.html
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
A close examination of my (unused, unmounted) Hartzell prop hub, I see 2
screws safety wired together on the hubs, near where the prop shafts are
mounted. What's strange is that there are 8 threaded screw holes, 2
pair at each prop shaft. But only 2 of the 8 are in place and safety wired.
In the Owner's manual, they are called 'balance weights'. In one
drawing it looks like a plate of some sort might be mounted under the
screws. One other diagram 'suggests' safety wire. Otherwise, I can
find no reference to them.
Anyone know anything about this?
I know this isn't enough information to easily picture this but I'm
thinking someone is familiar enough to know what I'm talking about.
It's weird to see 8 holes and only 2 screws.
Bill Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
The screws hold balance weights, which are plates that mount under pairs
of screws. The two screws you see are part of the 'weight' ..... but no
plates were needed. meaning that the initial assembly and static balance
were almost spot on.
I once balanced a prop on a homebuilt that the owner had taken apart
after a gear-up landing ...... his third. He 'straightened' the bent
blades with a 5 Lb maul (already spent too much on new blades!),
reassembled, and when he did he put all the weights on one blade ......
on one side! The prop stayed together longer than the owner. I was amazed.
Linn
On 3/15/2011 7:44 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> A close examination of my (unused, unmounted) Hartzell prop hub, I see
> 2 screws safety wired together on the hubs, near where the prop shafts
> are mounted. What's strange is that there are 8 threaded screw holes,
> 2 pair at each prop shaft. But only 2 of the 8 are in place and
> safety wired.
>
> In the Owner's manual, they are called 'balance weights'. In one
> drawing it looks like a plate of some sort might be mounted under the
> screws. One other diagram 'suggests' safety wire. Otherwise, I can
> find no reference to them.
>
> Anyone know anything about this?
>
> I know this isn't enough information to easily picture this but I'm
> thinking someone is familiar enough to know what I'm talking about.
> It's weird to see 8 holes and only 2 screws.
>
> Bill Watson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
You're in luck, sort of....
I did a write up today but didn't get a great picture if the valve-only when it
was mounted. It's pretty simple though.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110314/index.html
Hope that helps. A few weeks and I'll get a good long flight test.
Tim
On Mar 15, 2011, at 6:47 AM, "orchidman" wrote:
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Today I installed the Nonstopaviation.com control valve, and ...
>
> Sure am looking forward to seeing your valve installation pictures. This winter
I can't get my temps up above 170 and most of the time 160. I also have the
2006X.
> Looks like I am going to have to install the valve also.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333943#333943
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
Bill,
I had my prop balanced after about 150 hrs. The weights actually went
in the holes on the flywheel. No more than a AN3 screw and a couple of
washers. You shouldn't need to do anything else with the prop itself.
Dr Fred.
On 3/15/2011 6:44 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> A close examination of my (unused, unmounted) Hartzell prop hub, I see
> 2 screws safety wired together on the hubs, near where the prop shafts
> are mounted. What's strange is that there are 8 threaded screw holes,
> 2 pair at each prop shaft. But only 2 of the 8 are in place and
> safety wired.
>
> In the Owner's manual, they are called 'balance weights'. In one
> drawing it looks like a plate of some sort might be mounted under the
> screws. One other diagram 'suggests' safety wire. Otherwise, I can
> find no reference to them.
>
> Anyone know anything about this?
>
> I know this isn't enough information to easily picture this but I'm
> thinking someone is familiar enough to know what I'm talking about.
> It's weird to see 8 holes and only 2 screws.
>
> Bill Watson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2006X oil cooler question |
As far as I'm concerned all planes (but we really only care about our fello
w =0ARV10 guys) should have this valve.- I made my- own during the buil
d when I saw =0Athe temps other RV's were getting during the winter months.
.. 150 to 160 =0Adegrees.- With the valve you can literally dial in any o
il temp you want.... so =0AWHO wouldn't want that?=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: orchidman <gary(at)wingscc.com>
=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, March 15, 2011 6:47:32 AM=0ASub
ject: RV10-List: Re: 2006X oil cooler question=0A=0A--> RV10-List message p
osted by: "orchidman" =0A=0A=0ATim Olson wrote:=0A> =0A>
Today I installed the Nonstopaviation.com control valve, and ...=0A=0ASure
am looking forward to seeing your valve installation pictures.- This wint
er =0AI can't get my temps up above 170 and most of the time 160.- I also
have the =0A2006X.=0ALooks like I am going to have to install the valve al
so.=0A=0A--------=0AGary Blankenbiller=0ARV10 - # 40674=0A(N2GB Flying)=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/v
- - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
======0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
So it seems that the factory does some balancing of the new prop itself
(per Linn).
\
Then if the prop installation is balanced by whatever means, weights may
be applied to the engine flywheel.
Thanks Dr Fred.
On 3/16/2011 10:41 AM, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I had my prop balanced after about 150 hrs. The weights actually went
> in the holes on the flywheel. No more than a AN3 screw and a couple
> of washers. You shouldn't need to do anything else with the prop itself.
>
> Dr Fred.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
What you are discussing is the difference between static balance, which
is done by factory or any prop shop when they service a prop which is
simply having prop balanced end to end about the center point; and
dynamic balance that is done on the aircraft with the engine running,
and will be different for every engine, for any difference in prop
clocking if it is changeable. A prop must have proper static balance
before you will be able to effectively do a dynamic balance.
On 3/16/2011 8:23 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> So it seems that the factory does some balancing of the new prop
> itself (per Linn).
> \
> Then if the prop installation is balanced by whatever means, weights
> may be applied to the engine flywheel.
>
> Thanks Dr Fred.
>
> On 3/16/2011 10:41 AM, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>>
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> I had my prop balanced after about 150 hrs. The weights actually
>> went in the holes on the flywheel. No more than a AN3 screw and a
>> couple of washers. You shouldn't need to do anything else with the
>> prop itself.
>>
>> Dr Fred.
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
| From: | "George, Neal Capt 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
True as far as it goes.
Not every engine that this prop will fit is equipped with a flywheel in
which to mount balance weights, and not everybody thinks the spinner
back-plate is the best place to be poking holes for balance bolts.
Neal
-----Original Message-----
So it seems that the factory does some balancing of the new prop itself
(per Linn).
\
Then if the prop installation is balanced by whatever means, weights may
be applied to the engine flywheel.
Thanks Dr Fred.
On 3/16/2011 10:41 AM, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I had my prop balanced after about 150 hrs. The weights actually went
> in the holes on the flywheel. No more than a AN3 screw and a couple
> of washers. You shouldn't need to do anything else with the prop
itself.
>
> Dr Fred.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John J" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
Does doing a static balance apply to all props, including wood?
John J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
Putting balance weights on the flywheel will refine the balance done
with the prop weights, which is a static balance. I recommend everyone
get their prop balanced to reduce vibration which lessens wear/tear on
airframes and pilots alike. Put a clear glass of water on the
glareshield and see how big the ripples get. Do it again after the
balance job. See the results. Engine/prop vibrations are very
subjective when taken through the seat of your pants.
Linn
On 3/16/2011 10:41 AM, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I had my prop balanced after about 150 hrs. The weights actually went
> in the holes on the flywheel. No more than a AN3 screw and a couple
> of washers. You shouldn't need to do anything else with the prop itself.
>
> Dr Fred.
>
> On 3/15/2011 6:44 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> A close examination of my (unused, unmounted) Hartzell prop hub, I
>> see 2 screws safety wired together on the hubs, near where the prop
>> shafts are mounted. What's strange is that there are 8 threaded
>> screw holes, 2 pair at each prop shaft. But only 2 of the 8 are in
>> place and safety wired.
>>
>> In the Owner's manual, they are called 'balance weights'. In one
>> drawing it looks like a plate of some sort might be mounted under the
>> screws. One other diagram 'suggests' safety wire. Otherwise, I can
>> find no reference to them.
>>
>> Anyone know anything about this?
>>
>> I know this isn't enough information to easily picture this but I'm
>> thinking someone is familiar enough to know what I'm talking about.
>> It's weird to see 8 holes and only 2 screws.
>>
>> Bill Watson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
My experience says it's harder to get a good balance with a wooden prop
because it flexes more than a metal one. It can be done, just takes
longer, and you really need to know what RPM you cruise at most often as
RPM will make a difference. There are lots of other 'things' that make
a dynamic balance job harder too.
Linn
On 3/16/2011 2:00 PM, John J wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John J"
>
> Does doing a static balance apply to all props, including wood?
>
> John J
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spot Messenger Share interest? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I just got an e-mail from Sportys Pilot Shop - They have the Spot for $149 with
a $50 rebate by Visa PPD card. That is the best deal that I have seen, plus it
is just in time for the Summer flying season ! Remember that you also need the
activation fee with is $100-$150/yr.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334136#334136
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arizona vacation |
| From: | "cemkage" <cemkuago(at)gmail.com> |
A newbie here trying to learn more about RV10 builders.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334250#334250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Arizona vacation |
Are you looking to connect with AZ -10 Builders.
Deems
On 3/17/2011 9:16 PM, cemkage wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "cemkage"
>
> A newbie here trying to learn more about RV10 builders.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334250#334250
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arizona vacation |
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
Just remember, an AZ-10 is a modified RV-10. Deems is the only one who built an
"AZ-10" ;-)
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Mar 18, 2011, at 10:46 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Are you looking to connect with AZ -10 Builders.
>
> Deems
>
> On 3/17/2011 9:16 PM, cemkage wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "cemkage"
>>
>> A newbie here trying to learn more about RV10 builders.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334250#334250
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Arizona vacation |
My AZ aircraft is a DC-10.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Arizona vacation
>
> Just remember, an AZ-10 is a modified RV-10. Deems is the only one who
> built an "AZ-10" ;-)
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
>
>
> On Mar 18, 2011, at 10:46 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
>>
>> Are you looking to connect with AZ -10 Builders.
>>
>> Deems
>>
>> On 3/17/2011 9:16 PM, cemkage wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "cemkage"
>>>
>>> A newbie here trying to learn more about RV10 builders.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334250#334250
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's post on fuel systems |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
http://www.facebook.com/notes/vans-aircraft-inc/fuel-system-safety/208759802467733
I'm a little surprised Van's would call someone out like this publically,
given it would be obvious to many whose RV-10 this is from, but it certainly
seems to be something they feel strongly about.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's post on fuel systems |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Agreed, however it is understandable, given that rubber hose and
clamps are appropriate to low pressure carbureted systems, but not
fuel injected high pressure systems. I assume the picture was taken
pre-fire condition.
On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 2:03 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> http://www.facebook.com/notes/vans-aircraft-inc/fuel-system-safety/208759802467733
>
> I'm a little surprised Van's would call someone out like this publically,
> given it would be obvious to many whose RV-10 this is from, but it certainly
> seems to be something they feel strongly about.
>
> -Rob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
| From: | John Dunne <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
Hi Bill, indeed they are balance weights and depending upon the static
balance horizontally and/or vertically are applied to the various screw
locations to affect horizontal or vertical balance in various numbers. If
you don't have many, you most likely have a well balanced prop statically.
Dynamically is a different thing and a good thing to do when early in your
flying phase. Balance weights will then be added most likely to the spinner
backplate in addition. Also make sure the lockwire running between the
screws isn't capable of sawing a groove in the blade as it moves during
constant speeding.
John 40315
VH-XIO 50hrs
On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 9:44 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> A close examination of my (unused, unmounted) Hartzell prop hub, I see 2
> screws safety wired together on the hubs, near where the prop shafts are
> mounted. What's strange is that there are 8 threaded screw holes, 2 pair at
> each prop shaft. But only 2 of the 8 are in place and safety wired.
>
> In the Owner's manual, they are called 'balance weights'. In one drawing
> it looks like a plate of some sort might be mounted under the screws. One
> other diagram 'suggests' safety wire. Otherwise, I can find no reference to
> them.
>
> Anyone know anything about this?
>
> I know this isn't enough information to easily picture this but I'm
> thinking someone is familiar enough to know what I'm talking about. It's
> weird to see 8 holes and only 2 screws.
>
> Bill Watson
>
>
--
*ACS Propeller*
John Dunne
Managing Director
www.acspropeller.com.au
Aviation Component Services (Qld) Pty Ltd.
T/A "ACS Propeller"
Archerfield Airport, Queensland Australia
PH: 61 7 3274 4500 FAX: 61 7 3274 4010
*
*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Van's post on fuel systems |
I see nothing wrong with Van's posting this. I had no idea THIS was in his plane.
As Frank Barone would have said,,,,,,"HOLY CRAP!"
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 5:03:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Van's post on fuel systems
http://www.facebook.com/notes/vans-aircraft-inc/fuel-system-safety/208759802467733
I'm a little surprised Van's would call someone out like this publically, given
it would be obvious to many whose RV-10 this is from, but it certainly seems
to be something they feel strongly about.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balance weights on Hartzell CS prop hub |
| From: | John Dunne <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
Apologies to Bill and the list for rudely leaving my calling card on my
post!
John 40315 VH-XIO
>
> On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 9:44 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
>>
>> A close examination of my (unused, unmounted) Hartzell prop hub, I see 2
>> screws safety wired together on the hubs, near where the prop shafts are
>> mounted. What's strange is that there are 8 threaded screw holes, 2 pair at
>> each prop shaft. But only 2 of the 8 are in place and safety wired.
>>
>> In the Owner's manual, they are called 'balance weights'. In one drawing
>> it looks like a plate of some sort might be mounted under the screws. One
>> other diagram 'suggests' safety wire. Otherwise, I can find no reference to
>> them.
>>
>> Anyone know anything about this?
>>
>> I know this isn't enough information to easily picture this but I'm
>> thinking someone is familiar enough to know what I'm talking about. It's
>> weird to see 8 holes and only 2 screws.
>>
>> Bill Watson
>>
> *
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's post on fuel systems |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
My guess is the tone and lack of specific as to what NOT TO DO is the
writer's license of Ken Scott and not Richard Van Grunsven. I will
await clarification and would be happy to comment later on why several
adulterations could lead to problems of safety in flight.
by definition I guess Ken Scott is Van's Aircraft.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of
davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Fri 3/18/2011 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's post on fuel systems
I see nothing wrong with Van's posting this. I had no idea THIS was in
his plane. As Frank Barone would have said,,,,,,"HOLY CRAP!"
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 5:03:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Van's post on fuel systems
http://www.facebook.com/notes/vans-aircraft-inc/fuel-system-safety/208759
802467733
I'm a little surprised Van's would call someone out like this
publically, given it would be obvious to many whose RV-10 this is from,
but it certainly seems to be something they feel strongly about.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | throttle quadrant |
Anyone experience "binding" in the throttle quadrant? My throttle and
mixture seem more ? difficult to move than normal. I have check firewall
forward and find no reason for more force required to move. I have tried
the friction lock control but it does not seem to accomplish much if any.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: throttle quadrant |
My cables seized up and made the quadrant levers very hard to move.
Try checking the archives--there should be part numbers and lenghts
for throttle, prop, and mixture cables. A few extra inches makes
routing a lot easier.
If you don't find them I can dig them up.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 7:15 PM, DLM wrote:
> Anyone experience "binding" in the throttle quadrant? My throttle and
> mixture seem more ? difficult to move than normal. I have check firewall
> forward and find no reason for more force required to move. I have tried the
> friction lock control but it does not seem to accomplish much if any.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Has anyone purchased just a carpet kit for the RV-10? I'm looking for a nice,
drop in kit, something that will cover the tunnel (standard layout) and all floors
including the baggage area. Not just floor mats.
I know I can get carpet from Airtex and do it myself, but I was hoping to find
something alittle more drop in.
Any ideas?
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Source |
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
Abby has them and is fantastic to work with.
Highly recommend.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Mar 19, 2011, at 9:51 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> Has anyone purchased just a carpet kit for the RV-10? I'm looking for a nice,
drop in kit, something that will cover the tunnel (standard layout) and all
floors including the baggage area. Not just floor mats.
>
> I know I can get carpet from Airtex and do it myself, but I was hoping to find
something alittle more drop in.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: throttle quadrant |
Thanks. I already ordered extra length cables from Vans. I added 1.5 inches
to each. Prop cable is fine. I did confirm the problem in the cable. After
disconnecting the throttle lever it moved freely and smoothly. I then
disconnected injection system mechanism from the throttle cable and it moved
freely. The cables look fine but move with force and jerkily. I did notice
that the bracket which Vans supplies could be angled differently and
improve the connection. Vans indicated that their cables were Cablecraft but
given their price, it is more likely they are ACS out of Lake Havasu AZ
rather than the more expensive Tuthill Cablecraft cables for certified
aircraft. The Cablecraft cables last to engine TBO and longer. Given the
hassle to change the cables, it might be better to special order a set to
proper length direct from Cablecraft. Next time I will.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Saylor" <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: throttle quadrant
>
>
> My cables seized up and made the quadrant levers very hard to move.
> Try checking the archives--there should be part numbers and lenghts
> for throttle, prop, and mixture cables. A few extra inches makes
> routing a lot easier.
>
> If you don't find them I can dig them up.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 7:15 PM, DLM wrote:
>> Anyone experience "binding" in the throttle quadrant? My throttle and
>> mixture seem more ? difficult to move than normal. I have check firewall
>> forward and find no reason for more force required to move. I have tried
>> the
>> friction lock control but it does not seem to accomplish much if any.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Source |
Talk with Luke Doughton luked(at)classic.aero at Classic Aero. They did the upholstery
and carpet on my RV-8 and I couldn't be more pleased. On the carpet for
the RV-8, I did spend a good deal of time laying out exactly what I wanted on
CAD, printing it on a plotter, adjusting the fit, then updating the CAD, etc.
But when I finished that process, I just emailed the CAD file to Luke, and he
converted it into a carpet that literally fits like a glove. I was very impressed.
Quality of the carpet is excellent and Luke makes sure it is fire treated
as well.
http://www.classic.aero
Best upholstery and carpet available for RV's in my opinion.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 150+ Hours TTSN - Paint Job Is All That's Left To Do...
At 07:51 AM 3/19/2011 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Has anyone purchased just a carpet kit for the RV-10? I'm looking for a nice,
drop in kit, something that will cover the tunnel (standard layout) and all floors
including the baggage area. Not just floor mats.
>
>I know I can get carpet from Airtex and do it myself, but I was hoping to find
something alittle more drop in.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks
>-Mike Kraus
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: throttle quadrant |
I will try and verify on Monday the source of Vans quadrant control cables.
They are the correct color for Cablecraft low friction but the ACS website
does not show their cables. Anyway the throttle and mixture lengths for the
Vans cable set need to be increased 1.5-2 inches for better routing options
and fit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: throttle quadrant
>
> Thanks. I already ordered extra length cables from Vans. I added 1.5
> inches to each. Prop cable is fine. I did confirm the problem in the
> cable. After disconnecting the throttle lever it moved freely and
> smoothly. I then disconnected injection system mechanism from the throttle
> cable and it moved freely. The cables look fine but move with force and
> jerkily. I did notice that the bracket which Vans supplies could be
> angled differently and improve the connection. Vans indicated that their
> cables were Cablecraft but given their price, it is more likely they are
> ACS out of Lake Havasu AZ rather than the more expensive Tuthill
> Cablecraft cables for certified aircraft. The Cablecraft cables last to
> engine TBO and longer. Given the hassle to change the cables, it might be
> better to special order a set to proper length direct from Cablecraft.
> Next time I will.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Saylor" <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 7:42 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: throttle quadrant
>
>
>>
>>
>> My cables seized up and made the quadrant levers very hard to move.
>> Try checking the archives--there should be part numbers and lenghts
>> for throttle, prop, and mixture cables. A few extra inches makes
>> routing a lot easier.
>>
>> If you don't find them I can dig them up.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 7:15 PM, DLM wrote:
>>> Anyone experience "binding" in the throttle quadrant? My throttle and
>>> mixture seem more ? difficult to move than normal. I have check firewall
>>> forward and find no reason for more force required to move. I have tried
>>> the
>>> friction lock control but it does not seem to accomplish much if any.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I got mine from Abby, I am very happy.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Leikam
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Carpet Source
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
Abby has them and is fantastic to work with.
Highly recommend.
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Mar 19, 2011, at 9:51 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> Has anyone purchased just a carpet kit for the RV-10? I'm looking for a
nice, drop in kit, something that will cover the tunnel (standard layout)
and all floors including the baggage area. Not just floor mats.
>
> I know I can get carpet from Airtex and do it myself, but I was hoping to
find something alittle more drop in.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Source |
Hey Matt,
That was my first place to look as I bought my seats there years ago.
But no dice.
=46rom their web site:
We don't offer products for the RV-10 at this time. The main reason for
this is that we have decided to continue to focus on our current
products. We plan to further refine and then expand the items that we
make for the RV-7, RV-8, and RV-9.
On Mar 19, 2011, at 1:28 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Talk with Luke Doughton luked(at)classic.aero at Classic Aero. They did
the upholstery and carpet on my RV-8 and I couldn't be more pleased. On
the carpet for the RV-8, I did spend a good deal of time laying out
exactly what I wanted on CAD, printing it on a plotter, adjusting the
fit, then updating the CAD, etc. But when I finished that process, I
just emailed the CAD file to Luke, and he converted it into a carpet
that literally fits like a glove. I was very impressed. Quality of the
carpet is excellent and Luke makes sure it is fire treated as well.
>
> http://www.classic.aero
>
> Best upholstery and carpet available for RV's in my opinion.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 150+ Hours TTSN - Paint Job Is All That's Left To Do...
>
>
> At 07:51 AM 3/19/2011 Saturday, you wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone purchased just a carpet kit for the RV-10? I'm looking
for a nice, drop in kit, something that will cover the tunnel (standard
layout) and all floors including the baggage area. Not just floor mats.
>>
>> I know I can get carpet from Airtex and do it myself, but I was
hoping to find something alittle more drop in.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks
>> -Mike Kraus
>
> -
>
>
>
>
>
>
Michael Kraus
n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Source |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Luke told me he wasn't making RV-10 interiors.
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 19, 2011, at 3:01 PM, Michael Kraus wrot
e:
> Hey Matt,
>
> That was my first place to look as I bought my seats there years ago. But
no dice.
> =46rom their web site:
>
> We don't offer products for the RV-10 at this time. The main reason for th
is is that we have decided to continue to focus on our current products. We p
lan to further refine and then expand the items that we make for the RV-7, R
V-8, and RV-9.
>
>
>
> On Mar 19, 2011, at 1:28 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>> Talk with Luke Doughton luked(at)classic.aero at Classic Aero. They did the
upholstery and carpet on my RV-8 and I couldn't be more pleased. On the ca
rpet for the RV-8, I did spend a good deal of time laying out exactly what I
wanted on CAD, printing it on a plotter, adjusting the fit, then updating t
he CAD, etc. But when I finished that process, I just emailed the CAD file t
o Luke, and he converted it into a carpet that literally fits like a glove.
I was very impressed. Quality of the carpet is excellent and Luke makes su
re it is fire treated as well.
>>
>> http://www.classic.aero
>>
>> Best upholstery and carpet available for RV's in my opinion.
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
>> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: 150+ Hours TTSN - Paint Job Is All That's Left To Do...
>>
>>
>> At 07:51 AM 3/19/2011 Saturday, you wrote:
et>
>>>
>>> Has anyone purchased just a carpet kit for the RV-10? I'm looking for a
nice, drop in kit, something that will cover the tunnel (standard layout) a
nd all floors including the baggage area. Not just floor mats.
>>>
>>> I know I can get carpet from Airtex and do it myself, but I was hoping t
o find something alittle more drop in.
>>>
>>> Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> -Mike --> http://www.matronics==============
==========http://www.matronics.com/co=======
=========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> Michael Kraus
> n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
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=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Source |
Yep, Abby @ Flightline
On 3/19/2011 10:51 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus
>
> Has anyone purchased just a carpet kit for the RV-10? I'm looking for a nice,
drop in kit, something that will cover the tunnel (standard layout) and all
floors including the baggage area. Not just floor mats.
>
> I know I can get carpet from Airtex and do it myself, but I was hoping to find
something alittle more drop in.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Source |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Does anyone have any experience with the carpets from Steve (?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334464#334464
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: throttle quadrant |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I'm not sure what Vans is charging today, but I ordered special length cables from
Vans for my quadrant setup -- all longer than what he shows in the catalog
-- and each cable was $75.00, didn't matter the length. The cables were made
to the exact length I requested.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334476#334476
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
For those who are flying a G900X panel,
How does the system calculate "TTL Time in Service?" I called Garmin and the guy
I spoke with told me he would get and answer and call me back, two days ago.
It is not from engine start to shut down.
David Leikam
RV10
40496
N89DA
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Source |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
If you do not want a fancy carpet job and do not feel compelled to spend for Airtex
FAA approved stuff.... I have a solution. Look in the carpet remnant stores
for Jute backed wool carpet. It is a bit hard to find, but I got a nice piece
in San Rafael, CA for $60. I made templates out of kraft paper and cut the
pieces. Then had the edges bound for $1.00/ft - I think that the binding ran about
$100. Viola - carpets for about $165 total cost. The binding lady even put
hot melt glue around the tie down/seatbelt holes in back. This gives you a fairly
fire safe carpet except for the small amount of urethane glue on the jute
backing - this can be treated with a can of spray fireblock if desired.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334489#334489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Source |
> agreed. I bought my remnant for $175. I then had enough carpet for five
> aircraft. It was 100% wool. I also dyed and bound the pieces.I have
> included
> the measurments.
Carpet dimensions
Baggage
Front 40.25"
Depth 29"
Rear 33.75"
Front seat floors
29.5 by 20.375
Rear seat floors
20.25" by 18.625"
About 3 square yards
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 2:26 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Carpet Source
>
>
>>
>> If you do not want a fancy carpet job and do not feel compelled to spend
>> for Airtex FAA approved stuff.... I have a solution. Look in the carpet
>> remnant stores for Jute backed wool carpet. It is a bit hard to find, but
>> I got a nice piece in San Rafael, CA for $60. I made templates out of
>> kraft paper and cut the pieces. Then had the edges bound for $1.00/ft - I
>> think that the binding ran about $100. Viola - carpets for about $165
>> total cost. The binding lady even put hot melt glue around the tie
>> down/seatbelt holes in back. This gives you a fairly fire safe carpet
>> except for the small amount of urethane glue on the jute backing - this
>> can be treated with a can of spray fireblock if desired.
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '11
>> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334489#334489
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
Does anyone have the part numbers for the proper length cables from
Cablecraft, for knobs, not quadrant. I dont have an engine to measure,
but am installing stuff in the panel, and would like to get them
coming.
Thanks
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine cables |
Check out Ivan's post and the entire thread from the archives. Not
Cablecraft part numbers, but ACS. He also gives lengths.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322015#322015
-Sean #40303
On 3/20/11 8:59 AM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> Does anyone have the part numbers for the proper length cables from
> Cablecraft, for knobs, not quadrant. I dont have an engine to measure,
> but am installing stuff in the panel, and would like to get them coming.
> Thanks
> Chris Hukill
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
This is one of the dumb features on an otherwise great system. To get to
time in service, press the red reversion button on the audio panel. Then on
the PFD select the engine soft button and then in the lower left corner is
the time in service. I think it calculates only flying time derived from
ground speed trigger, but am not totally sure about that.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Leikam
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 10:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: G900X
For those who are flying a G900X panel,
How does the system calculate "TTL Time in Service?" I called Garmin and
the guy I spoke with told me he would get and answer and call me back, two
days ago.
It is not from engine start to shut down.
David Leikam
RV10
40496
N89DA
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Gary & David,
Another way to do that is during shutdown (on my system) the MFD
is turned off but the PFD stays on. At that point it is just like revision
mode. Follow the procedure listed below Engine > System to get your time.
I have two other suggestions.
Some time ago I mentioned to the RV List a free website called
www.CirrusReports.com I record my flight data for every flight on the top
MFD SD Card slot. About once every 4-6 flights I swap out the SD card for
the backup SD card I carry in my flight bag camera case. Take the SD card to
any computer, delete any small files that represent engine starts but not
flights (they are obvious due to file size) and then upload the flight data
to CR.com. The upload process is fast & easy. I uploaded 6 flights yesterday
and it took probably 2 minutes. From there CR.com presents every single
engine & flight parameter you can imagine including Geo-referenced map, and
charts of every engine item with the option to display any 4 individual
items at once so you can see for example Fuel Flow vs. CHT's. Speed vs. RPM.
The combinations are enlightening. It also has a spread sheet function to
give you Departure/Arrival times, Hobbs time, Flight time etc... In many
ways it can substitute for your Log Book as far as accurate flight dates,
hours, notes. You can choose to make your flight data public or keep it
private. I have decided to make mine available to the public.
http://www.cirrusreports.com/flights/N110EE/ Because it has this data it
also has a simple export to Google Earth in both 3D view & Cockpit View.
Here is a screen capture of the 3D view for a local flight I took back in
August. Again this took less than 1 minute to produce:
[image: Flight.JPG]
Here is a close up (from the other side of the airport) of my departure &
arrival on different runways plus the over flight of the airport. It even
shows I taxied back to Self Serve Fuel. Very powerful!
[image: flight2.JPG]
Nice feature!
Moving on I have one more suggestion. If you have not installed the latest
version of the G900X OS. It has many small changes I have noticed. For
example it has Ground Speed now displayed next to True Air Speed so I can
eliminate the GS I normally had as an option on the MFD and can use that
space for some other parameter like ETA. It has an updated Flight Planning
system and displays including different flags that I still have no idea what
they mean. It also has some really cool features like anytime you scroll
over an airport or roll over one in the Flight Planner it gives you instant
weather reporting vs. having to push a couple of additional page buttons and
leave the map display to get updated field WX info. Very tidy info. I bring
this up because I bet there is a better representation of times in the new
OS. I just have not played with it enough to know the differences yet. Also
if you want to make a stink about these times with Garmin one day they may
just place the times in their own section on the appropriate status page
some day as they should have from the start.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 8:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: G900X
This is one of the dumb features on an otherwise great system. To get to
time in service, press the red reversion button on the audio panel. Then on
the PFD select the engine soft button and then in the lower left corner is
the time in service. I think it calculates only flying time derived from
ground speed trigger, but am not totally sure about that.
Gary Specketer
February 24, 2011 - March 20, 2011
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ib