RV10-Archive.digest.vol-if

May 30, 2011 - June 22, 2011



      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341532#341532
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft winch recommendation
Date: May 30, 2011
This is the Kitplanes article that inspired me to build my own electric tow bar. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2011
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I took one of mine out because of a screw up that I made. It was a nightmare and there wasn't anything to see after I pulled it (I pulled the floor skin "just because"). I'd leave them right where they are, but I'd consider loosening all of the AN hardware to neutral and then re-tourqing so you know they're correct. Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
No. Do not loosen and retorque. First of all you cannot accurately measure torque that was applied. All you are doing is removing more of the cad plating on the bolt. An AN-3 properly torqued, when loosened later will likely take 50-80 in/lbs to break free, even though only 25"/lbs plus the resistance of the locknut were applied to begin with. Huge waste of time that accomplishes nothing. It is easy to remove the few pop-rivets that hold the floor, to vacuum underneath and a bit harder to push insulation in, but very doable without removing fittings. On 5/30/2011 5:25 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > I took one of mine out because of a screw up that I made. It was a > nightmare and there wasn't anything to see after I pulled it (I pulled > the floor skin "just because"). > > I'd leave them right where they are, but I'd consider loosening all of > the AN hardware to neutral and then re-tourqing so you know they're > correct. > > Phil > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com>
Date: May 30, 2011
I appreciate all of your comments. It's great to learn from experience. I'm all for taking the simple approach. I'm not planning to put insulation under the floor, but wasn't sure if I needed access for some other reason. Looks like a little cleaning and on to the next step. Thank you, Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341542#341542 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Donald Orrick <don.orrick(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-10 fly in?
Date: May 30, 2011
Everyone, Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet? Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ destination that will appeal to a majority? just wondering. Don Orrick N410JA 40010 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au>
Date: May 30, 2011
I know the feeling, I took the bolts out of my QB last week. It took nearly 6 hours to dissemble everything. There was a lot of damage done to the bolts during the process and they will need to be replaced. I reamed out the holes that were tight and left the others alone but it left me wondering how on earth they put the bolts in with them being so tight? Under the floor pans there was a little dust and some aluminium savings but otherwise it looks pretty good. I'm not planning on Insulating I just wanted to prime under the floor pans. cheers John MacCallum QB 41016 VHDUU Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341545#341545 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
If you do the factory stall warning vane, removal of the left tank is necessary. Regardless of aerodynamic warning, IMHO, either an AOA or stall warning system should be mandatory, as it is for certified planes. Not every pilot is observant of aerodynamic warnings when occupied with other tasks in the cockpit, and a horn, voice or flashing light is better than nothing. There is nothing about removing a tank, short of dropping it that is likely to have one bit of effect on how well the tank is sealed. None of the fasteners penetrate the sealed portion. A tank is 100% easier to do a thorough leak check with it off the wing. If you have one that leaks, you will want to be able to negotiate with Vans ASAP, not months after delivery. Just my opinion and what I did with mine. Being owner built and maintained, all are welcome to make their own choices. Kelly On 5/30/2011 4:40 PM, DLM wrote: > - Some take the fuel tanks off the QB wings; again why? They have > already been tested at the QB facility. If they leak, it will be your > problem now or at some future time.It is possible to create a problem > during the tank removal. Some will install a stall warning system; > others will rely on an EFIS warning. If you fly the airplane and do > not feel the impending stall you are comatose or embalmed. The stick > shakes very noticeably. My point is taking everything apart costs you > time and money. Taking things apart can also cause problems noticed or > unnoticed during reassembly. That's the reason the post annual > inspection test flight is one of the riskier of the year. > - > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 30, 2011
Subject: Rudder Stops?
Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Kaufmann <bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV-10 fly in?
Date: May 30, 2011
I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers. Bob K -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Orrick Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in? Everyone, Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet? Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ destination that will appeal to a majority? just wondering. Don Orrick N410JA 40010 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Stops?
http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409 Not sure if that is the same I got. One I have will require significant trimming when I get the tail back on and can determine what gives correct range of travel. On 5/30/2011 7:59 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor > > Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 fly in?
Date: May 30, 2011
We're in! Say when and where, we should be doing it. More than enough airplanes by now. How about before or after OSH somewhere in the central US? If before then followed by mass arrival of RV-10's, (everyone else does it) well maybe we're getting carried away here. Extending Oshkosh too long a time frame? OK how about a mid winter get away to the Central Southern part of the Country? Dick Sipp RV-10 N110DV 360 hours Qualified B-25 SIC :) -----Original Message----- From: Donald Orrick Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 5:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in? Everyone, Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet? Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ destination that will appeal to a majority? just wondering. Don Orrick N410JA 40010 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: cabin top filling sealing
Date: May 30, 2011
A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products . It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi l. As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters. Date: Mon=2C 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400 From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot. What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with Wonderfil. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It would seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in fact=2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderfil=2C I used a 'high fill' primer product. But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with most Dupont finishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up using. Lohle has a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it because I wasn't planning to stay with the Lohle line of products. If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes and priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that way... but I don't really know. Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final assembly and flight" Watson I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of primer.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rudder Stops?
From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>
Date: May 31, 2011
try Craig Vincent at 209-609-6730.He is at TCY -----Original Message----- From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 8:03 pm Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Stops? .com> Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke. Dave Saylor irCrafters 40 Aviation Way atsonville, CA 95076 31-722-9141 Shop 31-750-0284 Cell -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Rudder Stops?
Date: May 31, 2011
I got mine from Craig. As is, you will only get about 25 degrees of travel. Trimming is on my to do task list to get the desired range of travel. bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:19 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder Stops? http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409 Not sure if that is the same I got. One I have will require significant trimming when I get the tail back on and can determine what gives correct range of travel. On 5/30/2011 7:59 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave > --> Saylor > > Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 fly in?
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: May 31, 2011
bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com wrote: > I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already > a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers. > > Bob K > > -- I don't have the dates here at work but it is in October. I will be there since it is a 15 minute flight. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341574#341574 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 fly in?
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Date: May 31, 2011
I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas (KWEA or about 10 other airports there)? On May 30, 2011, at 7:59 PM, Bob Kaufmann wrote: > > I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already > a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers. > > Bob K > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Orrick > Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in? > > > Everyone, > Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the > numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet? > Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ destination > that will appeal to a majority? > just wondering. > > > > > Don Orrick > N410JA > 40010 > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 fly in?
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: May 31, 2011
John Ackerman wrote: > I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas (KWEA or about 10 other airports there)? > -- LOE stood for Land of Enchantment and was in NM but now has been re-defined as Lots of Experimentals. For all practical proposess, it is an RV fly in with two goals. One is lots of RV's getting to gather and the other is they raise a BUNCH of money for charity. :D Find the info on it on VansAirforce. Right now it is only in the Calender but later this summer it will start showing up in other posts there. Vetterman used to run it and has retired from being the major organizer. I think one of the people heading it up this year is a -10 driver. Not 100% sure. The location last year and this year again is Weatherford OK KOJA and the dates are Fri Oct 7 thru Sun Oct 9th. Planes will start arriving mid day Friday. This last year, I got there around 1:30 and the ramp had just filled up and they started parking everyone on the grass. Lots of grass and stickers [Shocked] The Stafford Air and Space museum is located on the field and was included. Very good :D Last year, we had a very good turn out of -10's. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341599#341599 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 fly in?
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: May 31, 2011
Count me in. I think Weatherford would be a great centralized place. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341630#341630 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: cabin top filling sealing
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching. I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other products. While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not have used the Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the Lohle line for priming and finishing. The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and the cowling and the pants is this Step 1,2,3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling (do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface, then sand thru the fill, you may re-expose the pinholes). There were plenty of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil and recommend it, especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any major depressions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix. Superfil is faster and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or 2 passes here. Then do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester filler like Metal Glaze. Easy to use because it sets immediately and sands very easily. You might do a dozen passes on a piece but they go fast. Some people will advise not to mix polyester fillers and epoxy. The pros do it and for very good reason; it's efficient. Then spray on a 'high fill' primer with some tint. Here, brand selection probably starts to be important. Tt probably makes sense to use a filler that is compatible with the primer/topcoat you plan to use. In any case, Lohle does theirs in black, my Dupont product is gray. Color helps you see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of black can be used for this too - I didn't. Sand it down, blow it off, and see what's left to do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again with Wonderfil just before spraying more fill or starting the .... Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with your topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum & plastic. If this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be farmed out, stop and think about how much of steps 1,2, and 3 the paint shop should do. Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others think? If DIY, follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh system for epoxies, polyurethanes and probably anything else. Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure how I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec sheets. Coatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be played with or guessed at for good results. Previously, someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a re-packaging of another product that is available under other labels. The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key. There are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various filling/sanding properties. I was happy with mine for the most part but had some challenges. When it was humid, the filler would 'cheese' when sanded and immediatly clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully ventilated spray booth and fresh air breathing eqipment, I found that I wanted full protection when sanding a week after spraying. Fumes came off the filler for a couple of weeks and they weren't pleasant. In any case, filling and sanding the big parts is a lot of work.... or not. On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > A correction to this email, Wonderfil is not compatible with all > products. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to > use Wonderfil. > > As for the cowling, those are not pinholes, those are craters. These > are better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO, even if the > Loehle literature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400 > From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing > > I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot. > > What I did on my fiberglass (cowling, top, etc) is start with > Wonderfil. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe > it off. It would seem to be compatible with anything you might put > over it. And in fact, is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may > have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever > you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you > can move on. After the Wonderfil, I used a 'high fill' primer product. > > But when you get to the primer stage, it's a good time to make a > decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to > use a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible > with most Dupont finishing products including the Imron Elite line I > ended up using. Lohle has a high fill primer product but I decided > not to use it because I wasn't planning to stay with the Lohle line of > products. > > If you are farming out your painting, you could leave the pinholes and > priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it > that way... but I don't really know. > > Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final > assembly and flight" Watson > > I know this has been discussed before but what is the current > thinking on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top > before application of primer.Please share your experiences with > ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim > > > * > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2011
Subject: Capacitive Fuel System
From: Jonathan Beasley <jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com>
How many =AD10 out there are running capacitive fuel systems? Feedback? Which Vans capacitive probes are right for the =AD10? I see the probes for the RV4/6/7/8 tanks (Probe A) and the RV9 tanks (Probe 9) but no RV10 tanks=8A so I'm assuming either Probe A or Probe 9 will work??? It would Thanks, Jonathan (#41236 =AD Working on Tailcone and researching Wing options) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: cabin top filling sealing
Date: May 31, 2011
Hi Bill=2C My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro blem. I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca n't do it until the S&P is cured. As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp ly a wetting agent. The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu red. So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others. I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule. The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to. To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack there of on the producers side. No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery??????????? ???? Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane. I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy =2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again . From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons Date: Tue=2C 31 May 2011 15:11:58 -0400 From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching. I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other products. While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not have used the Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the Lohle line for primi ng and finishing. The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and the cowling and the pants is this Step 1=2C2=2C3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling ( do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface=2C then sand thru the fill=2C you may re-expose the pinholes). There were plenty of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil and recomm end it=2C especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any major depress ions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix. Superfil is faster and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or 2 passes here. Then do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester filler like Metal Glaze. Easy to use because it sets immediately and sands very easily. You might do a dozen passes on a piece but they go fast. Some people will advise no t to mix polyester fillers and epoxy. The pros do it and for very good rea son=3B it's efficient. Then spray on a 'high fill' primer with some tint. Here=2C brand selection probably starts to be important. Tt probably mak es sense to use a filler that is compatible with the primer/topcoat you pla n to use. In any case=2C Lohle does theirs in black=2C my Dupont product is gray. Color helps you see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of black can be used for this too - I didn't. Sand it down=2C blow it off=2C and see what's left to do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again wit h Wonderfil just before spraying more fill or starting the .... Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with your topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum & plastic. If this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be farmed out=2C sto p and think about how much of steps 1=2C2=2C and 3 the paint shop should do . Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others think? If DIY=2C follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh system for epoxies =2C polyurethanes and probably anything else. Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure ho w I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec sheets. C oatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be played with or guessed at for good results. Previously=2C someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a re-pac kaging of another product that is available under other labels. The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key. The re are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various filling/sanding p roperties. I was happy with mine for the most part but had some challenges . When it was humid=2C the filler would 'cheese' when sanded and immediatl y clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully ventilated spray booth and fres h air breathing eqipment=2C I found that I wanted full protection when sand ing a week after spraying. Fumes came off the filler for a couple of weeks and they weren't pleasant. In any case=2C filling and sanding the big par ts is a lot of work.... or not. On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM=2C John Gonzalez wrote: A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products . It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi l. As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters. Date: Mon=2C 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400 From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot. What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with Wonderfil . It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It wo uld seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in fact =2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderf il=2C I used a 'high fill' primer product. But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use a Dupont hi gh fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with most Dupont fi nishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up using. Lohle ha s a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it because I wasn't p lanning to stay with the Lohle line of products. If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes and pr iming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that way.. . but I don't really know. Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final assembly and flight" Watson I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of prime r.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: cabin top filling sealing
Date: May 31, 2011
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Different John responding. Paint compatibility is one of two issues not resolved by builders early enough in their process. Which topcoat is the final finish should dictate which filler, which primer and what surface prep lends itself to long term adhesion. Primer wars start builders on one side of a Mason-Dixon Paint line only to find out that improper surface prep, wrong selection of primer, an incompatible filler do not work chemically in partnership with the topcoat selected Late in that process. Chemistry/Cleanliness/Planning & Prep assist the application of topcoat that will last and bring pride to the purchaser. Many builders chose finished surfaces based on a lower price or ease of work. Choose wisely. John Cox, #40600 & former auto paint restoration specialist with air carrier paint experience beyond my current desire. PS - the other issue #2 -is the selection of specific antenna and their respective location(s) too late in the build to get the maximum signal transmission and reception after the late avionics decision. Choice of equipment often predicates antenna selection. The best installation requires planning during the initial build - not as a retro at the tail end. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:12 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching. On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: A correction to this email, Wonderfil is not compatible with all products. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfil. As for the cowling, those are not pinholes, those are craters. These are better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO, even if the Loehle literature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters. ________________________________ Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400 From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot. What I did on my fiberglass (cowling, top, etc) is start with Wonderfil. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It would seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in fact, is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderfil, I used a 'high fill' primer product. But when you get to the primer stage, it's a good time to make a decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with most Dupont finishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up using. Lohle has a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it because I wasn't planning to stay with the Lohle line of products. If you are farming out your painting, you could leave the pinholes and priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that way... but I don't really know. Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final assembly and flight" Watson I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of primer.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Cowl sealing
Date: May 31, 2011
One of the most enjoyable parts of building this plane took place last wint er while building the plane in this special wide Mobile Mini storage contai ner. For five years the plane was in the basement of my house with one smal l window and I was in the dungeon. I am in California=2C so it was night=2C my wife and daughter were away=2C probably 36-40 degrees outside=2C wearing a beeney=2C the electric oil heat er on=2C raining extremely hard and windy as hell=2C the sides of the stora ge container buckling in the wind=2C a piece of plywood banging into the si de=2C =2C a bungee cord holding the door closed=2C the Sirius radio on and all I could think about was how cool this was. After I was done for the evening I though about how I would never forget th at night and wished I would have video taped it. Leaving on the trailer for paint June 23rd. 409NS =0A Cowl sealing=0A http://cid-cf8c9ba70acf9731.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=browse&resi d=CF8C9BA70ACF9731!147&type=5&Bpub=SDX.Photos&Bsrc=Photomail&authke y=f23!sIWNW9g%24=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Lost email
Date: May 31, 2011
I wrote up a very lengthy email to Bill and the list regarding my experienc e with Wonderfil. I hit the send button and it never came through. I also do not see it in my sent box either It appearently is lost in cyberspace someplace. Perhaps to surface later. The second email came through with the pictures=2C but that was not my answ er to Bill's question. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Lost email
Date: May 31, 2011
In fact=2C when I click on the sent tab=2C it show John Cox's email as orig inating from my computer with my email briefly showing before his stays on the screen. No nitrous patients today=2C nor was I sucking it down. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: nolvadex generic
From: "ngenerr" <curtlaytharab(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 31, 2011
Nolvadex (TAMOXIFEN) is an anti-estrogen used to treat or prevent breast cancer. It may also be used to treat other conditions as determined by your doctor Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341665#341665 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James McGrew" <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu>
Subject: Failed Alternator
Date: May 31, 2011
Hi RV-10 Group, My alternator failed after around 200 hours of flight (over 5 years) and I learned some things that may be worth sharing. I am using the 60 amp alternator that came with the Van's Firewall Forward kit in 2005 (not sure what they are shipping now). See attached photo of the alternator. I have learned that it came from a Suzuki Samuri (part #14684), or a Geo Tracker, or a Toyota forklift, although I'm not sure if they did any mods to it before including it in the kit. According to the alternator repair shop I took it to, I don't think so. Upon landing last week, I noticed that my voltage was ~11.3 V. I tried a quick run-up and that didn't bring up the voltage. I tested my batteries the next day and they were both quite discharged. I downloaded my engine data and saw that the alternator voltage had gone down the day before the flight during an engine run. It was still putting out current, so when I looked at that during my run-up/flight it didn't catch my eye. However, the voltage was too low to charge the batteries and they continued to discharge throughout the flight. First lesson learned - I need to set a higher lower-limit for low voltage on my engine monitor. I took it to a shop and the tech immediately pointed out that one of the three phases was burned out . He saws this easily by the white globs of melted plastic on every third coil (see other photo). Upon disassembly this was caused by a mechanical failure of one of the phase leads (see picture), the other two were still making power. This failure was either due to the way the stator was installed during manufacture, or excessive vibration (again, I only have ~200 hours on the plane). I just had my prop balanced, maybe I should have done that sooner. That's it. Hope that helps someone. -Jim N312JE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Capacitive Fuel System
Date: May 31, 2011
Jonathon I am using the Capacitive system in my tanks on the 10. I ordered from Vans the RV-9 Capacitive system kit, I think it was about $60 it uses 2 different plates and comes with everything you need except to make two plates that are the same shape as a tank rib. I can give you a few web sites to review from a couple of builders that have done this. It is very simple and should make for very accurate fuel gauges. John Cumins 40864 Wings rear spar riveting. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan Beasley Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Capacitive Fuel System How many -10 out there are running capacitive fuel systems? Feedback? Which Vans capacitive probes are right for the -10? I see the probes for the RV4/6/7/8 tanks (Probe A) and the RV9 tanks (Probe 9) but no RV10 tanks. so I'm assuming either Probe A or Probe 9 will work??? It would Thanks, Jonathan (#41236 - Working on Tailcone and researching Wing options) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 fly in?
From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
Date: May 31, 2011
Boone RV Day 2011 will be Saturday June 18th FOR MORE INFO http://wcaircraft.com/home.html -----Original Message----- From: Donald Orrick <don.orrick(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 8:46 pm Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in? Everyone, ears ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the umbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet? s there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ estination that will appeal to a majority? ust wondering. on Orrick 410JA 0010 -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 31, 2011
Just did this a few weeks ago. When I noted that all of the QB bolts had torque seal BUT the landing gear bolts, the floors can't be removed without removing the landing gear, and I want insulation under the floorboards...I decided to remove the landing gear mounts. I It was very difficult to remove both gear mounts due to the incredible force on some of the bolts. You can tell that some bolts were doing 100% of the work and others were doing 0% (as evidenced by the pressure to remove and the surface cad lost). In the end, they came out with some damage to the bolt heads (from the plier used to grab and pull). A few bucks worth of bolts from Vans and I was feeling good about my ability to access the floors. No odd findings, but good access to verify everything and add insulation. I fabricated drifts out of the old bolts (see image attached) which my tech counselor said would be very helpful in aligning everything for reassemby. Reassembly is around the corner...so I'll let everyone know if it was more/less difficult then removal. In the end, I do not feel it is imperative to remove the gear, but no harm is caused by doing so. -------- RV-10 builder #41059 Elevator nearly complete! QB fuselage and wings ready to go Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341674#341674 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo_375.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Failed Alternator
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 31, 2011
Jim, Can't really tell from the picture, but it doesn't look like the plane power alternator? I had insufficient voltage with my alternator from the start, it was between 12.5 to 13.5 ,always causing me to conserve amps in flight. Plane power kept directing me to do diagnostic tests, saying it was usually a short or bad wiring somewhere else. Finally they took it back, checked it out, said nothing was wrong, but replaced a couple things (not sure what) and its been running great ever sense. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341676#341676 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Failed Alternator
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 31, 2011
Mine failed at exactly 200 hrs. Van replaced it without charge. Not sure if I have a different one now but I have accumulated 360 hr on the replacement. Rob Kermanj Sent from my iPad On May 31, 2011, at 8:30 PM, "James McGrew" wrote: > Hi RV-10 Group, > > > > My alternator failed after around 200 hours of flight (over 5 years) and I learned some things that may be worth sharing. I am using the 60 amp altern ator that came with the Van=99s Firewall Forward kit in 2005 (not sure what they are shipping now). See attached photo of the alternator. I have l earned that it came from a Suzuki Samuri (part #14684), or a Geo Tracker, or a Toyota forklift, although I=99m not sure if they did any mods to it before including it in the kit. According to the alternator repair shop I t ook it to, I don=99t think so. > > > > Upon landing last week, I noticed that my voltage was ~11.3 V. I tried a q uick run-up and that didn=99t bring up the voltage. I tested my batter ies the next day and they were both quite discharged. I downloaded my engine data and saw that the alternator voltage had gone down the day before the f light during an engine run. It was still putting out current, so when I look ed at that during my run-up/flight it didn=99t catch my eye. However, t he voltage was too low to charge the batteries and they continued to dischar ge throughout the flight. First lesson learned =93 I need to set a hig her lower-limit for low voltage on my engine monitor. > > > > I took it to a shop and the tech immediately pointed out that one of the t hree phases was burned out . He saws this easily by the white globs of melte d plastic on every third coil (see other photo). Upon disassembly this was c aused by a mechanical failure of one of the phase leads (see picture), the o ther two were still making power. This failure was either due to the way the stator was installed during manufacture, or excessive vibration (again, I o nly have ~200 hours on the plane). I just had my prop balanced, maybe I shou ld have done that sooner. > > > > That=99s it. Hope that helps someone. > > > > -Jim > > N312JE > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Kaufmann <bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV-10 fly in?
Date: May 31, 2011
Oklahoma -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 8:39 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in? I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas (KWEA or about 10 other airports there)? On May 30, 2011, at 7:59 PM, Bob Kaufmann wrote: > > I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are > already a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers. > > Bob K > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald > Orrick > Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in? > > > Everyone, > Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the > numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet? > Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ > destination that will appeal to a majority? > just wondering. > > > > > Don Orrick > N410JA > 40010 > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Failed Alternator
Date: May 31, 2011
My Vans supplied 60 A alternator failed at about 150 hours. The replacement was an Nippondenso Model 36-14684N from an auto parts store and seems to be working fine at 550 hrs. I get the impression that a suitable alternator may be found under several manufacturer/part no. combinations. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: lost email found
Date: May 31, 2011
Hi Bill=2C My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro blem. I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca n't do it until the S&P is cured. As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp ly a wetting agent. The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu red. So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others. I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule. The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to. To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack there of on the producers side. No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery??????????? ???? Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane. I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy =2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again . From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: cabin top filling sealing
Date: May 31, 2011
Below is my lost email reply to Bill's Watson. After clicking twenty times or more on my sent tab and bringing up the email John Cox's sent today=2C m y email finally showed up. My sent box also showed JOhn Cox's email as bein g sent yesterday=2C in addition to today. Kind of like working upside down under the instrument panel with your shoul ders contourted into the most uncomfortable position to the point of pain =2C just to tighten that screw...persistence pays off. John G. From: indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing Date: Tue=2C 31 May 2011 13:48:39 -0700 Hi Bill=2C My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro blem. I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca n't do it until the S&P is cured. As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp ly a wetting agent. The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu red. So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others. I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule. The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to. To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack there of on the producers side. No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery??????????? ???? Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane. I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy =2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again . From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons Date: Tue=2C 31 May 2011 15:11:58 -0400 From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching. I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other products. While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not have used the Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the Lohle line for primi ng and finishing. The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and the cowling and the pants is this Step 1=2C2=2C3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling ( do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface=2C then sand thru the fill=2C you may re-expose the pinholes). There were plenty of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil and recomm end it=2C especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any major depress ions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix. Superfil is faster and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or 2 passes here. Then do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester filler like Metal Glaze. Easy to use because it sets immediately and sands very easily. You might do a dozen passes on a piece but they go fast. Some people will advise no t to mix polyester fillers and epoxy. The pros do it and for very good rea son=3B it's efficient. Then spray on a 'high fill' primer with some tint. Here=2C brand selection probably starts to be important. Tt probably mak es sense to use a filler that is compatible with the primer/topcoat you pla n to use. In any case=2C Lohle does theirs in black=2C my Dupont product is gray. Color helps you see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of black can be used for this too - I didn't. Sand it down=2C blow it off=2C and see what's left to do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again wit h Wonderfil just before spraying more fill or starting the .... Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with your topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum & plastic. If this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be farmed out=2C sto p and think about how much of steps 1=2C2=2C and 3 the paint shop should do . Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others think? If DIY=2C follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh system for epoxies =2C polyurethanes and probably anything else. Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure ho w I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec sheets. C oatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be played with or guessed at for good results. Previously=2C someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a re-pac kaging of another product that is available under other labels. The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key. The re are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various filling/sanding p roperties. I was happy with mine for the most part but had some challenges . When it was humid=2C the filler would 'cheese' when sanded and immediatl y clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully ventilated spray booth and fres h air breathing eqipment=2C I found that I wanted full protection when sand ing a week after spraying. Fumes came off the filler for a couple of weeks and they weren't pleasant. In any case=2C filling and sanding the big par ts is a lot of work.... or not. On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM=2C John Gonzalez wrote: A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products . It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi l. As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters. Date: Mon=2C 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400 From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot. What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with Wonderfil . It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It wo uld seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in fact =2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderf il=2C I used a 'high fill' primer product. But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use a Dupont hi gh fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with most Dupont fi nishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up using. Lohle ha s a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it because I wasn't p lanning to stay with the Lohle line of products. If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes and pr iming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that way.. . but I don't really know. Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final assembly and flight" Watson I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of prime r.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 31, 2011
BTW, my QB fuel tanks came installed - but with bolts that were one size too long! To compensate, there were 2 washers under each bolt head. I thought this was a potential disaster waiting to happen. 10 years from now, someone (me) pulls the tanks, sees the extra washer, and throws it away. Now the bolts bottom out before coming tight. Whether you choose to pull the QB stuff apart or not is your choice (I left my gear mount alone) but do check everything. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341694#341694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James McGrew" <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: Failed Alternator
Date: Jun 01, 2011
Cjay, I believe I purchased mine before Van's started selling Plane Power alternators. -Jim -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 6:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Failed Alternator Jim, Can't really tell from the picture, but it doesn't look like the plane power alternator? I had insufficient voltage with my alternator from the start, it was between 12.5 to 13.5 ,always causing me to conserve amps in flight. Plane power kept directing me to do diagnostic tests, saying it was usually a short or bad wiring somewhere else. Finally they took it back, checked it out, said nothing was wrong, but replaced a couple things (not sure what) and its been running great ever sense. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341676#341676 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Jun 01, 2011
Don't take apart anything that you don't have to. I didn't understand the comment about removing the right fuel tank to install the stall warning. I didn't have to for it or for a heated pitot. You can leak test the fuel tanks with them installed. You should think about your electrical distribution and the need for conduit runs under the floor. This is a convenient place to run cable out of the way and the wires can be pulled later. You can also consider insulating the floor at the same time, though that is clearly optional. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341769#341769 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2011
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
If you read the plans, the left(not right) fuel tank is called out to be removed to install the stall warning. Otherwise you are trying to do a knee scope with an endoscope designed for colonoscopy. Sure, you can avoid it, but the scrapes you get will be worse than pulling the tank. Other than being a fair number of screws and bolts, removal simply is not difficult, and does mean you can leak check with soapy water all surfaces while rotating tank to have tested area on top. It is not in the class of trying to remove the gear weldments. Kelly Finish/FWF+never ending fiberglass hell On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 1:25 PM, nukeflyboy wrote: > > Don't take apart anything that you don't have to. I didn't understand the > comment about removing the right fuel tank to install the stall warning. I > didn't have to for it or for a heated pitot. > You can leak test the fuel tanks with them installed. > You should think about your electrical distribution and the need for > conduit runs under the floor. This is a convenient place to run cable out > of the way and the wires can be pulled later. You can also consider > insulating the floor at the same time, though that is clearly optional. > > -------- > Dave Moore > RV-6 flying > RV-10 QB - FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341769#341769 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: built plane but how do I get it out?
Date: Jun 01, 2011
At least I had to remove my engine and the landing gear to get it out of my basement. No banners or news media at my house=2C tiny violins playing now! =0A RV10-List built plane but how do I get it out=0A http://cid-cf8c9ba70acf9731.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=browse&resi d=CF8C9BA70ACF9731!155&type=5&Bpub=SDX.Photos&Bsrc=Photomail&authke y=AOZM3zJ4fc0%24=0A From: rv10flyer(at)verizon.net Subject: RV10-List: built plane but how do I get it out? Date: Thu=2C 26 May 2011 14:24:16 -0700 Looks like he did a nice job on the plane. ---------- Reeves had a contractor dig out and remove part of his basement wall to ge t the plane out of his basement. http://photos.pennlive.com/patriot-news/2011/05/airplane_emerges_from_dan_r eev_11.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: iPad/BadElf GPS
Date: Jun 01, 2011
I was anticipating using an extension cable so the GPS receiver could be placed near the top of the windscreen and the iPad on my knee in flight but I have been unable to find an extension cable that works with the BadElf. Is anyone using an extension cable that works and would mention where they obtained it from? Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jun 02, 2011
I did not pull the floors. You can access the front ones through the lightening holes under the seats, For the back ones I drilled a few holes at one end. I used a big magnet, vacuum, and borescope - saw nothing. I then filled them with Abesco FP200 fire proof foam. It is closed cell, won't burn, and gives a solid feel to the floor. Pretty pink color matches the canopy (g). Only expands about 2x. Here is the manufacturer: http://www.abesco.net/productus/products/fp200.php The suggestion about conduit is important. Get as much conduit in the baggage floors as you can. John -------- #40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341830#341830 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: iPad/BadElf GPS
Date: Jun 02, 2011
you don't need a cable. It works just fine the way it is even in an airline r from a window seat. An RV with all the plexiglass windows and some with a fiberglass top (RV-10) gives a direct shot to the satelites. Since I'm sti ll building my -10=2C my experiences have been in Cessnas. Usually have 5 m eter accuracy. From: ibspud(at)roadrunner.com Subject: RV10-List: iPad/BadElf GPS Date: Wed=2C 1 Jun 2011 20:23:13 -0700 I was anticipating using an extension cable so the GPS receiver could be pl aced near the top of the windscreen and the iPad on my knee in flight but I have been unable to find an extension cable that works with the BadElf. Is anyone using an extension cable that works and would mention where they ob tained it from?Albert GardnerN991RVYuma=2C AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2011
Dave, what wire/cable are you running under the front floor panels? It seems like there isn't anything passing through that area and since I'm about to close it up, I thought I'd ask. What about antennas? I was planning the transponder antenna to go in the midline (under the tunnel) , not under the floor panels of the pilot/right seater. Thanks. nukeflyboy wrote: > Don't take apart anything that you don't have to. I didn't understand the comment about removing the right fuel tank to install the stall warning. I didn't have to for it or for a heated pitot. > You can leak test the fuel tanks with them installed. > You should think about your electrical distribution and the need for conduit runs under the floor. This is a convenient place to run cable out of the way and the wires can be pulled later. You can also consider insulating the floor at the same time, though that is clearly optional. -------- David Halmos RV-10 builder #41059 Empennage complete! QB fuselage under construction Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341840#341840 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Jun 02, 2011
David, I couldn't recall which floor panels were installed with the QB and which ones I did. You are correct - there is no need to run anything under the front floorboards. I have run quite a bit under the rear seat pans and baggage floor. My comm antennas are attached on the belly just aft of the rear wing spar with the coax running forward just above the rear spar and then to the side panel (see photo). There is plenty of room to run wires along the sides starting forward and running aft to the rear seat side panel. At this point my wires dive under the floor and emerge aft of the baggage compartment at the battery. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - Need to start panel Rest almost done Breathing too much fiberglass dust Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341901#341901 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/001reduced_169.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/008_2_reduced_202.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/007_2_reduced_432.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Jun 02, 2011
David, I couldn't recall which floor panels were installed with the QB and which ones I did. You are correct - there is no need to run anything under the front floorboards. I have run quite a bit under the rear seat pans and baggage floor. My comm antennas are attached on the belly just aft of the rear wing spar with the coax running forward just above the rear spar and then to the side panel (see photo). There is plenty of room to run wires along the sides starting forward and running aft to the rear seat side panel. At this point my wires dive under the floor and emerge aft of the baggage compartment at the battery. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - Need to start panel Rest almost done Breathing too much fiberglass dust Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341900#341900 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/001reduced_169.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/008_2_reduced_202.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/007_2_reduced_432.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose Wheel Noise
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jun 02, 2011
Does anyone else's nose wheel make noise when steering (left and right motion, not rotary motion). I have greased it thru the zerk fitting and tried a few other things which help, but only for a short time. Are others seeing this? Any ideas how to fix? My next step is a full disassembly and re- grease it all up..... Thanks -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Noise
Date: Jun 03, 2011
Hey Mike, I would suspect the big washers that sit on top of the fork. Others have said that when they wear in, the left right torq needs to be reset, so I went ahead and polished the mating surfaces and greased them before installing on Wes's plane and setting the torq -- haven't had any squeak but still checked and reset torq after about a year of flying. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 10:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Nose Wheel Noise > > > Does anyone else's nose wheel make noise when steering (left and right > motion, not rotary motion). I have greased it thru the zerk fitting and > tried a few other things which help, but only for a short time. Are > others seeing this? Any ideas how to fix? My next step is a full > disassembly and re- grease it all up..... > > Thanks > -Mike Kraus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: fuel pressure sender VDO360003
Date: Jun 03, 2011
Has any one had one of these fail? usual install is with GRT EIS 6000. When it fails, does it sense zero for high scale? mine has become flaky with a few occasions of slightly high pressure followed by a duration of flight normal range. I have the replacement in the spare parts box in the baggage area but waiting to install. Total time is 429. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Jun 03, 2011
I am at home and can't confirm the part number, but I recently replaced my fuel pressure sender for the second time after about 370 hours. The first one started acting flaky at about 170 hours. Both times the symptoms were occasional spikes of very high fuel pressure. GRT tells me this is common and sent me a replacement right away, both times. Changing the sender takes about five minutes and does not require "breaking" any fuel lines if installed using the stock Van's manifold. I don't remember the cost, but seem to remember it was in the $40 range. Maybe less. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341996#341996 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003
Date: Jun 03, 2011
Sounds like mine; we will see how long it goes. The part number is available online for about $29 shipped. It is a German part distributed in USA by JEGS a car "extras" site. ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)me.com> Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:07 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003 > > I am at home and can't confirm the part number, but I recently replaced my > fuel pressure sender for the second time after about 370 hours. The first > one started acting flaky at about 170 hours. Both times the symptoms were > occasional spikes of very high fuel pressure. GRT tells me this is common > and sent me a replacement right away, both times. Changing the sender > takes about five minutes and does not require "breaking" any fuel lines if > installed using the stock Van's manifold. > I don't remember the cost, but seem to remember it was in the $40 range. > Maybe less. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341996#341996 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003
Date: Jun 03, 2011
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-360003/ also. ----- Original Message ----- From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:43 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003 > > Sounds like mine; we will see how long it goes. The part number is > available online for about $29 shipped. It is a German part distributed in > USA by JEGS a car "extras" site. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <dmaib(at)me.com> > To: > Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:07 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003 > > >> >> I am at home and can't confirm the part number, but I recently replaced >> my fuel pressure sender for the second time after about 370 hours. The >> first one started acting flaky at about 170 hours. Both times the >> symptoms were occasional spikes of very high fuel pressure. GRT tells me >> this is common and sent me a replacement right away, both times. Changing >> the sender takes about five minutes and does not require "breaking" any >> fuel lines if installed using the stock Van's manifold. >> I don't remember the cost, but seem to remember it was in the $40 range. >> Maybe less. >> >> -------- >> David Maib >> RV-10 #40559 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341996#341996 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings)
From: "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 03, 2011
Dave, Thanks for the pictures. It's always nice to get the visual! Today, it was front floors but the baggage/rear floors are around the corner. I'm excited to get to the conduit. Thanks again, David -------- David Halmos RV-10 builder #41059 Empennage complete! QB fuselage under construction Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342019#342019 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Foreflight users on the iPad2
Date: Jun 05, 2011
I'm checking out a 30 trial offer of Mobile HD from Foreflight on my iPad2 and I have a problem that might prevent me from going paperless for VFR flights. I can't access the sectional chart info that is printed on the borders - MOA floor/ceiling hours of operation and all that valuable stuff. Are you paid subscribers able to see that info while flying? How about orientation of the inflight moving map for either VFR of enroute IFR (low)? Can you select "track up" instead of "north up"? I can't find a way to do that on my iPad2 and I aways fly the Garmin with "track up". Thank you for any help might be able to give. Paul Hahn RV-10 builder ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: GRT EIS fuel pressure sender - "better"
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jun 05, 2011
Before I was even flying and while I bought my stuff, I had asked GRT if wha t I was buying was the best I can do on stuff. They said that many Lancair f olks buy this fuel pressure sender instead of the standard one they supply. Knowing that most Lancair builders don't care about $10 or $20 upcharges, a s I don't either, if it gives better quality, I purchased this sender. It's been flawless for 725+ hours. The oil pressure sender is their standard one and has also been flawless. You might want to just get the better sender if you have problems. See atta ched: P/n: 2000132 Model: MSP-300-100-P-4-A-1

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: ForeFlight customer service for iPad2
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jun 05, 2011
These guys are fast - must be hanging on the computer all weekend. They replied before the list members did about my question on sectional info. They do make the critical stuff available thru the Mobile HD app, either directly from the VFR map or the "airports" page. Just tap on an MOA or RESTRICTED space and up pops the info: floor, ceiling, hours, and contact frequencies. VERY COOL. They stated that improvements are always in the works and hinted that a view of the sectional borders might come along some day. Paul Hahn RV-10 builder Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342147#342147 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: VA119
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jun 06, 2011
I'm getting ready to order FWF hoses. Is there any compelling reason to fire-sleeve VA-119? (manifold pressure) Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2011
Subject: Re: VA119
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
The only reason I can think of is to match the other hoses. :) As an aside, I used the stock Van's MP hose, and it's WAY too long. -Rob On Mon, Jun 6, 2011 at 11:19 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > I'm getting ready to order FWF hoses. Is there any compelling reason to > fire-sleeve VA-119? (manifold pressure) > > Sent from my iPhone > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying, Phase 1 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: VA119
Date: Jun 06, 2011
I agree about it being way too long, better than way to short however The hose runs from the rear of the engine into my firewall so no reason I see a firesleeve would be needed, all air anyway nothing to catch on fire. Also I don=99t recall that there was a firesleeve required hose from the servo up to the spider in the Vans kit, or maybe I just ordered one custom for some other reason. Also if you are looking elsewhere for hoses Tim and Curtis had writeups on their sites on places to get them. I got all mine from Vans except for the hose I mentioned above. It was all about price differences between Vans and elsewhere, it was like 60% of the cost going with Vans.Things change however so do look at other options, if you haven=99t already. Pascal From: Rob Kochman Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 11:37 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: VA119 The only reason I can think of is to match the other hoses. :) As an aside, I used the stock Van's MP hose, and it's WAY too long. -Rob On Mon, Jun 6, 2011 at 11:19 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: I'm getting ready to order FWF hoses. Is there any compelling reason to fire-sleeve VA-119? (manifold pressure) Sent from my iPhone<============ Browse, Chat, FAQ, ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://=== http://forums.mle, List Admin. ==== -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying, Phase 1 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Small Drill Driver Recommendation
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Date: Jun 06, 2011
I use the little reddish colored Skil, not a drill but a nice economical screw driver, has a lot of torque, lithium battery, small size just fits in the cowl inlets on my 6. I liked it so well I bought a few more for my employees to use. Would recommend it as I have tried some others. There are nicer ones out there I have seen at a Sears display but they are pricey. Just a reference for a lower cost driver. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342271#342271 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2011
Subject: Landing gear questions
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Has anyone gone with the Cleveland recommended Mobil SHC100 Aviation grease for their wheel bearings? Any source for less than the 4lb can SkyGeek sells for about 45 bucks? Wheel bolt torque for the Matco NW511.25 nose wheel. Not one scrap of paper came with mine besides the invoice. Can't find anything on their website. I'm guessing some where around 90-100 in/lb, but would like to get it right. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Landing gear questions
Date: Jun 07, 2011
There was a several page pamphlet that came with my nose wheel. Unfortunately, it's at the hangar or I would give you a quick response. I'll try to remember to look for it the next time I head to the hangar. I would just give Matco a quick call or drop them an email if you need a quick answer. Here's something I found on Tim's site (http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090120/index.html): Some tips from Matco on installation (Thanks Phil) Per Phil's talk with Matco: "I just got off the phone with Matco and thought I'd pass along some information that is not included in their documentation." 1) The wheel halves should be torqued to 99 inches. This is more than a standard AN-4 bolt (50-70 inches). 2) Hand tight is probably too tight. You should be able to get the seals to hold position (when rotating the wheel in the correct direction) before reaching the maximum you can tighten by hand tight. 3) Be sure to lubricate the seals and mating surfaces with grease, this will help them hold position. 4) Once you put weight on the nose wheel, the friction of the bearing will help hold the seals in place too. 5) Make sure there is no grease between the seal and the nut. This friction will help hold the seal in place. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 1:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Landing gear questions Has anyone gone with the Cleveland recommended Mobil SHC100 Aviation grease for their wheel bearings? Any source for less than the 4lb can SkyGeek sells for about 45 bucks? Wheel bolt torque for the Matco NW511.25 nose wheel. Not one scrap of paper came with mine besides the invoice. Can't find anything on their website. I'm guessing some where around 90-100 in/lb, but would like to get it right. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2011
Subject: Re: Landing gear questions
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Thanks Bob. Just what I needed. On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 2:33 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > There was a several page pamphlet that came with my nose wheel. > Unfortunately, it's at the hangar or I would give you a quick response. > I'll try to remember to look for it the next time I head to the hangar. I > would just give Matco a quick call or drop them an email if you need a quick > answer. > > Here's something I found on Tim's site > (http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090120/index.html): > > Some tips from Matco on installation (Thanks Phil) > Per Phil's talk with Matco: > > "I just got off the phone with Matco and thought I'd pass along some > information that is not included in their documentation." > > > 1) The wheel halves should be torqued to 99 inches. This is more than a > standard AN-4 bolt (50-70 inches). ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing gear questions
From: Phil Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 07, 2011
I'm not 100% sure this is the link they sent me, but I think it is. It is under section H. http://static.veracart.com/matco/item_pdfs/2665/document1.pdf I did call them several times to confirm the 99 inches because I couldn't find it documented anywhere. Phil On Jun 7, 2011, at 7:12 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Thanks Bob. Just what I needed. > > On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 2:33 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> >> There was a several page pamphlet that came with my nose wheel. >> Unfortunately, it's at the hangar or I would give you a quick response. >> I'll try to remember to look for it the next time I head to the hangar. I >> would just give Matco a quick call or drop them an email if you need a quick >> answer. >> >> Here's something I found on Tim's site >> (http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090120/index.html): >> >> Some tips from Matco on installation (Thanks Phil) >> Per Phil's talk with Matco: >> >> "I just got off the phone with Matco and thought I'd pass along some >> information that is not included in their documentation." >> >> >> 1) The wheel halves should be torqued to 99 inches. This is more than a >> standard AN-4 bolt (50-70 inches). > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2011
Subject: Fwd: Nose Wheel NW511.25
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
>From the source: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: TECH <tech(at)matcomfg.com> Date: Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 6:22 AM Subject: RE: Nose Wheel NW511.25 Kelly, You can refer to the General Wheel and Brake data in our Technical section at http://static.veracart.com/matco/item_pdfs/2665/document1.pdf The AN4 bolts use 80 in-lb. Thank you, George R Happ MATCO mfg 801-335-0582 801-335-0581 (F) www.matcomfg.com Technical Support Disclaimer: While we strive to ensure that the advice/information provided through our support is correct, MATCO mfg does not accept any responsibility for errors or omissions. Any advice or information that MATCO mfg gives you via any form of communication is not a guarantee that it will correct your problem. It is only offered as assistance to you. MATCO mfg will not be held responsible for any loss or damage as a result of our advice or information supplied. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2011
Subject: Re: Fwd: Nose Wheel NW511.25
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
BTW, I double checked with Matco in that the drawing had an erroneous 50 in-lb. They confirmed the 80-in.lbs and have revised their drawing and other references to the correct 80 figure. On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 6:49 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > >From the source: > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: TECH <tech(at)matcomfg.com> > Date: Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 6:22 AM > Subject: RE: Nose Wheel NW511.25 > To: Kelly McMullen > > > Kelly, > You can refer to the General Wheel and Brake data in our Technical section > at > > http://static.veracart.com/matco/item_pdfs/2665/document1.pdf > > The AN4 bolts use 80 in-lb. > > > Thank you, > > > George R Happ > MATCO mfg > 801-335-0582 801-335-0581 (F) > www.matcomfg.com > Technical Support Disclaimer: While we strive to ensure that the > advice/information provided through our support is correct, MATCO mfg does > not accept any responsibility for errors or omissions. Any advice or > information that MATCO mfg gives you via any form of communication is not a > guarantee that it will correct your problem. It is only offered as > assistance to you. > MATCO mfg will not be held responsible for any loss or damage as a result > of > our advice or information supplied. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: GRT EIS fuel pressure sender - "better"
Date: Jun 07, 2011
I bought the same sender from the beginning. I would also recommend the higher end EGT probes. -Scott Sent from my iPhone On Jun 5, 2011, at 12:13 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > Before I was even flying and while I bought my stuff, I had asked GRT if what I was buying was the best I can do on stuff. They said that many Lancair folks buy this fuel pressure sender instead of the standard one they supply. Knowing that most Lancair builders don't care about $10 or $20 upcharges, as I don't either, if it gives better quality, I purchased this sender. It's been flawless for 725+ hours. The oil pressure sender is their standard one and has also been flawless. > > You might want to just get the better sender if you have problems. See attached: > > P/n: 2000132 > Model: MSP-300-100-P-4-A-1 > > > > > > > >

      > 
      > 
      > 
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2011
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: GRT EIS fuel pressure sender - "better"
Ditto...as Scott says, ask them (GRT) for the Hastelloy EGT probes if you ever change EGT probes. Tim On 6/7/2011 11:25 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Schmidt > > I bought the same sender from the beginning. > I would also recommend the higher end EGT probes. > -Scott > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 5, 2011, at 12:13 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > >> Before I was even flying and while I bought my stuff, I had asked GRT if what I was buying was the best I can do on stuff. They said that many Lancair folks buy this fuel pressure sender instead of the standard one they supply. Knowing that most Lancair builders don't care about $10 or $20 upcharges, as I don't either, if it gives better quality, I purchased this sender. It's been flawless for 725+ hours. The oil pressure sender is their standard one and has also been flawless. >> >> You might want to just get the better sender if you have problems. See attached: >> >> P/n: 2000132 >> Model: MSP-300-100-P-4-A-1 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>

      >>
      >>
      >> 
> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Trim tab controls
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jun 07, 2011
Hey Guys, I've about finished up with Linn's idea of using a micro controller and RC servos to operate a small tab extension on the aileron and rudder. Here's a first, somewhat crude, youtube video of my demonstrator: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPFUCQeOM4Q The servos are digital, high torque (88.88 oz-in) that weigh 1.59 oz. They are not like the old analog servos -- they don't "hunt". They have carbonite gear sets and there are metal control arms available. The idea is that they are light weight enough to mount on a small access panel inside the rudder and aileron. The digital readout can be customized to pretty much whatever the pilot wants -- or to a bar LED like the one supplied for the elevator trim. I like the digital cuz it gives a much more refined position, and cuz it was more of a challenge, but I'm aware that most pilots probably would see that as a distraction. The switches would be incorporated into the hat switch, toggle on the stick, or on the panel. Brightness of the digital display is controlable. I was concerned that the signal to the pulse motor servos might be compromised by the length of the wire, so I put 25 ft. on each -- and they work fine. I programmed in the feature to "save" the position you want, so that you don't have to reset the trim every time you start up the plane (i.e., the basic program sets the servo to neutral each time it powers up). I got most of the materials off Ebay and RadioShack for the demo. Probably around $100. The brain of the system is the Parallax BS2 micro controller and I've built in the MAX7219 8-digit display driver to control the digital displays. I started from zero and taught myself enough Pbasic to program this thing to do what I wanted it to do -- WHAT A BLAST!! If I can talk Wes into it, I'll probably build these into an aileron and the rudder that I have for the next -10 I'm building, then swap them out in his plane to see if they work. If they don't or no one likes them, it's still been an awesome project. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342323#342323 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2011
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Anybody going to Golden West Fly-in ?????
Looking for a ride or somebody can fly with me in our Club's C172 based here in Santa Monica (KSMO) - Wx permitting of course. Always more fun to fly with somebody and share the experience / cost ??? Garey Wittich (RV8A Builder, CFI, MEI) (310) 392-1682 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2011
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Cable Installation
I just received my custom prop and mixture cables from ACS (ordered longer for Aerosport panel) and I had a question about installation on the panel side. Obviously make a mount hole big enough for the cable to mount on the panel, but as far as sliding the cable through that hole, is it ok to remove the rubber boots on the cables so I can slip off the nuts all the way to test fit the cable through the mount hole? It won't fit through the hole with the backing nuts in place. Am I asking the right question or is there a more appropriate way that I am not thinking of? Spent enough on the cables that I didn't want to destroy them by removing the rubber boots temporarily. Thanks, -Sean #40303 (wiring the panel) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2011
Subject: Re: Cable Installation
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Yes, you need to take off the rubber boots temporarily to remove all the nuts. Don't worry about destroying the boots--the heat from the engine will do that quickly enough once you're flying. -Rob On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 2:56 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > I just received my custom prop and mixture cables from ACS (ordered longer > for Aerosport panel) and I had a question about installation on the panel > side. > > Obviously make a mount hole big enough for the cable to mount on the panel, > but as far as sliding the cable through that hole, is it ok to remove the > rubber boots on the cables so I can slip off the nuts all the way to test > fit the cable through the mount hole? It won't fit through the hole with > the backing nuts in place. > > Am I asking the right question or is there a more appropriate way that I am > not thinking of? Spent enough on the cables that I didn't want to destroy > them by removing the rubber boots temporarily. > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 (wiring the panel) > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying, Phase 1 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Cable Installation
Date: Jun 08, 2011
Yes - take off the rubber boots and hardware to run the cables. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 5:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Cable Installation I just received my custom prop and mixture cables from ACS (ordered longer for Aerosport panel) and I had a question about installation on the panel side. Obviously make a mount hole big enough for the cable to mount on the panel, but as far as sliding the cable through that hole, is it ok to remove the rubber boots on the cables so I can slip off the nuts all the way to test fit the cable through the mount hole? It won't fit through the hole with the backing nuts in place. Am I asking the right question or is there a more appropriate way that I am not thinking of? Spent enough on the cables that I didn't want to destroy them by removing the rubber boots temporarily. Thanks, -Sean #40303 (wiring the panel) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2011
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Cable Installation
Thanks everyone... -Sean On 6/8/11 6:26 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" > > Yes - take off the rubber boots and hardware to run the cables. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 5:57 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Cable Installation > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens > > I just received my custom prop and mixture cables from ACS (ordered > longer for Aerosport panel) and I had a question about installation on > the panel side. > > Obviously make a mount hole big enough for the cable to mount on the > panel, but as far as sliding the cable through that hole, is it ok to > remove the rubber boots on the cables so I can slip off the nuts all the > way to test fit the cable through the mount hole? It won't fit through > the hole with the backing nuts in place. > > Am I asking the right question or is there a more appropriate way that I > am not thinking of? Spent enough on the cables that I didn't want to > destroy them by removing the rubber boots temporarily. > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 (wiring the panel) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aileron Rigging
From: "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jun 09, 2011
I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of days. I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions on the best methods to finish the rigging. Here's my data: Aileron Up Down Max Travel 32 17 Min Travel 25 15 Right 29.7 17.3 Left 28.7 16.9 Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 degree variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left flap and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" shorter than the flap trailing edge. My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have to get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they are within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll rate may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be appreciated. thanks, bob -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - FWF RV-10 #40684 http://mykitlog.com/rleffler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron Rigging
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jun 09, 2011
Another thing you will notice is that if the control stick is full forward vs full back, the ailerons will move some. I aligned mine at neutral elevator. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 9, 2011, at 10:44 AM, "rleffler" wrote: > > I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of days. I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions on the best methods to finish the rigging. > > Here's my data: > > Aileron Up Down > Max Travel 32 17 > Min Travel 25 15 > Right 29.7 17.3 > Left 28.7 16.9 > > Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 degree variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left flap and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" shorter than the flap trailing edge. > > My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have to get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they are within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll rate may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. > > On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. > > Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be appreciated. > > thanks, > > bob > > -------- > Bob Leffler > N410BL - FWF > RV-10 #40684 > http://mykitlog.com/rleffler > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron Rigging
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Jun 09, 2011
I chased the aileron alignment on my plane and found that it changes as the temperature changes. I clamped one aileron to the flap and noticed the other aileron would vary about 1/8" at the tip over temperature, so I left it at that. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 9, 2011, at 9:44 AM, "rleffler" wrote: > > I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of days. I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions on the best methods to finish the rigging. > > Here's my data: > > Aileron Up Down > Max Travel 32 17 > Min Travel 25 15 > Right 29.7 17.3 > Left 28.7 16.9 > > Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 degree variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left flap and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" shorter than the flap trailing edge. > > My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have to get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they are within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll rate may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. > > On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. > > Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be appreciated. > > thanks, > > bob > > -------- > Bob Leffler > N410BL - FWF > RV-10 #40684 > http://mykitlog.com/rleffler > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Rigging
Date: Jun 09, 2011
recognize also that the flaps are reflexed so clamping one side and aligning the other is counter productive. Flaps need to be set in trail for the procedure to work. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 9:30 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > I chased the aileron alignment on my plane and found that it changes as > the temperature changes. I clamped one aileron to the flap and noticed the > other aileron would vary about 1/8" at the tip over temperature, so I left > it at that. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 9, 2011, at 9:44 AM, "rleffler" wrote: > >> >> I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of days. >> I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions on >> the best methods to finish the rigging. >> >> Here's my data: >> >> Aileron Up Down >> Max Travel 32 17 >> Min Travel 25 15 >> Right 29.7 17.3 >> Left 28.7 16.9 >> >> Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are >> flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 degree >> variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the >> right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left flap >> and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" shorter >> than the flap trailing edge. >> >> My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have to >> get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they are >> within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll rate >> may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. >> >> On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to >> disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. >> >> Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be >> appreciated. >> >> thanks, >> >> bob >> >> -------- >> Bob Leffler >> N410BL - FWF >> RV-10 #40684 >> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron Rigging
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Jun 09, 2011
The position of the flaps didn't matter for this- I'm saying that the aileron position would change just from the temperature changing. One day I'd set the ailerons and clamp one side to the flap and note the position of the other aileron. The next day, at a different temperature (+- 10), the aileron would be in a different position.... Sent from my iPhone On Jun 9, 2011, at 12:07 PM, "DLM" wrote: > > recognize also that the flaps are reflexed so clamping one side and aligning the other is counter productive. Flaps need to be set in trail for the procedure to work. > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 9:30 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > >> >> I chased the aileron alignment on my plane and found that it changes as the temperature changes. I clamped one aileron to the flap and noticed the other aileron would vary about 1/8" at the tip over temperature, so I left it at that. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jun 9, 2011, at 9:44 AM, "rleffler" wrote: >> >>> >>> I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of days. I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions on the best methods to finish the rigging. >>> >>> Here's my data: >>> >>> Aileron Up Down >>> Max Travel 32 17 >>> Min Travel 25 15 >>> Right 29.7 17.3 >>> Left 28.7 16.9 >>> >>> Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 degree variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left flap and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" shorter than the flap trailing edge. >>> >>> My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have to get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they are within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll rate may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. >>> >>> On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. >>> >>> Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be appreciated. >>> >>> thanks, >>> >>> bob >>> >>> -------- >>> Bob Leffler >>> N410BL - FWF >>> RV-10 #40684 >>> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aileron Rigging
Date: Jun 10, 2011
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
Are the wing tips, aileron and flaps in alignment with flaps in reflex or flaps in trail? Mine are aligned with flaps in reflex. Are they incorrect? Bobby Hughes N416AS -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 11:08 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging recognize also that the flaps are reflexed so clamping one side and aligning the other is counter productive. Flaps need to be set in trail for the procedure to work. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 9:30 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > I chased the aileron alignment on my plane and found that it changes as > the temperature changes. I clamped one aileron to the flap and noticed the > other aileron would vary about 1/8" at the tip over temperature, so I left > it at that. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 9, 2011, at 9:44 AM, "rleffler" wrote: > >> >> I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of days. >> I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions on >> the best methods to finish the rigging. >> >> Here's my data: >> >> Aileron Up Down >> Max Travel 32 17 >> Min Travel 25 15 >> Right 29.7 17.3 >> Left 28.7 16.9 >> >> Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are >> flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 degree >> variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the >> right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left flap >> and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" shorter >> than the flap trailing edge. >> >> My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have to >> get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they are >> within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll rate >> may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. >> >> On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to >> disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. >> >> Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be >> appreciated. >> >> thanks, >> >> bob >> >> -------- >> Bob Leffler >> N410BL - FWF >> RV-10 #40684 >> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron Rigging
From: David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Date: Jun 10, 2011
No. They are not incorrect. They should line up in reflex. David Leikam RV10 Flying On Jun 10, 2011, at 1:05 PM, Bobby J. Hughes wrote: > > > Are the wing tips, aileron and flaps in alignment with flaps in reflex > or flaps in trail? Mine are aligned with flaps in reflex. Are they > incorrect? > > Bobby Hughes > N416AS > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM > Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 11:08 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > > recognize also that the flaps are reflexed so clamping one side and > aligning > the other is counter productive. Flaps need to be set in trail for the > procedure to work. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 9:30 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > >> >> I chased the aileron alignment on my plane and found that it changes > as >> the temperature changes. I clamped one aileron to the flap and noticed > the >> other aileron would vary about 1/8" at the tip over temperature, so I > left >> it at that. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jun 9, 2011, at 9:44 AM, "rleffler" wrote: >> >>> >>> I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of > days. >>> I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions > on >>> the best methods to finish the rigging. >>> >>> Here's my data: >>> >>> Aileron Up Down >>> Max Travel 32 17 >>> Min Travel 25 15 >>> Right 29.7 17.3 >>> Left 28.7 16.9 >>> >>> Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are > >>> flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 > degree >>> variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the >>> right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left > flap >>> and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" > shorter >>> than the flap trailing edge. >>> >>> My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have > to >>> get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they > are >>> within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll > rate >>> may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. >>> >>> On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to >>> disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. >>> >>> Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be >>> appreciated. >>> >>> thanks, >>> >>> bob >>> >>> -------- >>> Bob Leffler >>> N410BL - FWF >>> RV-10 #40684 >>> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron Rigging
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jun 10, 2011
I aligned with the flaps in reflex. I'm finding that I can tweak my ailerons a little more to be closer aligned within spec. My trailing edge difference appears to be caused by one flap being about .5 degree low. What I thought was the offending aileron actually matches the wing tip length. Learning something new every day...... Sent from my iPhone On Jun 10, 2011, at 2:05 PM, "Bobby J. Hughes" wrote: > > > Are the wing tips, aileron and flaps in alignment with flaps in reflex > or flaps in trail? Mine are aligned with flaps in reflex. Are they > incorrect? > > Bobby Hughes > N416AS > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM > Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 11:08 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > > recognize also that the flaps are reflexed so clamping one side and > aligning > the other is counter productive. Flaps need to be set in trail for the > procedure to work. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 9:30 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > >> >> I chased the aileron alignment on my plane and found that it changes > as >> the temperature changes. I clamped one aileron to the flap and noticed > the >> other aileron would vary about 1/8" at the tip over temperature, so I > left >> it at that. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jun 9, 2011, at 9:44 AM, "rleffler" wrote: >> >>> >>> I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of > days. >>> I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions > on >>> the best methods to finish the rigging. >>> >>> Here's my data: >>> >>> Aileron Up Down >>> Max Travel 32 17 >>> Min Travel 25 15 >>> Right 29.7 17.3 >>> Left 28.7 16.9 >>> >>> Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are > >>> flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 > degree >>> variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the >>> right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left > flap >>> and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" > shorter >>> than the flap trailing edge. >>> >>> My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have > to >>> get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they > are >>> within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll > rate >>> may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. >>> >>> On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to >>> disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. >>> >>> Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be >>> appreciated. >>> >>> thanks, >>> >>> bob >>> >>> -------- >>> Bob Leffler >>> N410BL - FWF >>> RV-10 #40684 >>> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2011
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Rigging
Mine are in reflex....since that's where you'll be 95% of the time anyway....and it work great. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD On 6/10/2011 1:05 PM, Bobby J. Hughes wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" > > > Are the wing tips, aileron and flaps in alignment with flaps in reflex > or flaps in trail? Mine are aligned with flaps in reflex. Are they > incorrect? > > Bobby Hughes > N416AS > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM > Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 11:08 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DLM" > > recognize also that the flaps are reflexed so clamping one side and > aligning > the other is counter productive. Flaps need to be set in trail for the > procedure to work. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kevin Belue"<kdbelue(at)charter.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 9:30 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Rigging > > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kevin Belue >> >> I chased the aileron alignment on my plane and found that it changes > as >> the temperature changes. I clamped one aileron to the flap and noticed > the >> other aileron would vary about 1/8" at the tip over temperature, so I > left >> it at that. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jun 9, 2011, at 9:44 AM, "rleffler" wrote: >> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rleffler" >>> >>> I've been working on my aileron and flap rigging the past couple of > days. >>> I'm still not finished, but I thought I would solicit some opinions > on >>> the best methods to finish the rigging. >>> >>> Here's my data: >>> >>> Aileron Up Down >>> Max Travel 32 17 >>> Min Travel 25 15 >>> Right 29.7 17.3 >>> Left 28.7 16.9 >>> >>> Flaps are up and flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Ailerons are > >>> flush with the flaps in the neutral position. There is about a .4 > degree >>> variance between the two flaps. I'm slightly over the limits on the >>> right aileron at the moment. While the trailing edge of the left > flap >>> and aileron are flush, I still have the right aileron about 1/8" > shorter >>> than the flap trailing edge. >>> >>> My question is how far to chase these specs down? Clearly have have > to >>> get them within the published specs, but what's the impact if they > are >>> within specs but may not be symmetrical? I'm guessing that the roll > rate >>> may be slightly different depending on the direction of turn. >>> >>> On the trailing edge differences, I guess the best method is to >>> disconnect the flap and see what angle do they match. >>> >>> Any tips on getting these rigged a little closer together would be >>> appreciated. >>> >>> thanks, >>> >>> bob >>> >>> -------- >>> Bob Leffler >>> N410BL - FWF >>> RV-10 #40684 >>> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342499#342499 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2011
From: GORDON F BROICH <flashgordo(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/07/11
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: RV10-List Digest Se rver =0ATo: RV10-List Digest List =0ASent: Wed, June 8, 2011 2:00:31 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/07/11=0A=0A*=0A=0A============ ==============0A- Online Versions of Today's Li st Digest Archive=0A================== ========0A=0AToday's complete RV10-List Digest can also be fo und in either of the =0Atwo Web Links listed below.- The .html file inclu des the Digest formatted =0Ain HTML for viewing with a web browser and feat ures Hyperlinked Indexes =0Aand Message Navigation.- The .txt file includ es the plain ASCII version =0Aof the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed wit h a generic text editor =0Asuch as Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0AHTM L Version:=0A=0A- - =0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?S tyle=82701&View=html&Chapter 11-06-07&Archive=RV10=0A=0A=0AText V ersion:=0A=0A- - =0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Styl e=82701&View=txt&Chapter 11-06-07&Archive=RV10=0A=0A=0A=0A== ======================0A- EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive=0A=========== =============0A=0A=0A- - - - - ---------- ------------------------------------------------=0A- - - - - - - - - - - - - RV10-List Digest Archive=0A- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ---=0A- - - - - - - - - - Total Messages Posted Tue 06/07/11: 9=0A- - - - - ----------------------------------------------------------=0A =0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A----------------------=0A=0A- - 1. 02:41 AM - Re: Landing gear questions- (Bob Leffler)=0A- - 2. 05:15 AM - R e: Landing gear questions- (Kelly McMullen)=0A- - 3. 06:16 AM - Re: L anding gear questions- (Phil Perry)=0A- - 4. 06:52 AM - Fw: Nose Whee l NW511.25- (Kelly McMullen)=0A- - 5. 08:01 AM - Re: Fw: Nose Wheel N W511.25- (Kelly McMullen)=0A- - 6. 09:28 AM - Re: GRT EIS fuel pressu re sender - "better"- (Scott Schmidt)=0A- - 7. 09:40 AM - Re: GRT EIS fuel pressure sender - "better"- (Tim Olson)=0A- - 8. 11:19 AM - Tri m tab controls- (Lew Gallagher)=0A- - 9. 06:11 PM - Anybody going to Golden West Fly-in ?????- (Garey Wittich)=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________ ____________- Message 1- =0A_____________________________________=0A=0A bject: RE: RV10-List: Landing gear questions=0A=0A=0AThere was a several pa ge pamphlet that came with my nose wheel.=0AUnfortunately, it's at the hang ar or I would give you a quick response.=0AI'll try to remember to look for it the next time I head to the hangar.- I=0Awould just give Matco a quic k call or drop them an email if you need a quick=0Aanswer.=0A=0AHere's some thing I found on Tim's site=0A(http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/200901 20/index.html):=0A=0ASome tips from Matco on installation (Thanks Phil)=0AP er Phil's talk with Matco:=0A=0A"I just got off the phone with Matco and th ought I'd pass along some=0Ainformation that is not included in their docum entation."=0A=0A=0A1) The wheel halves should be torqued to 99 inches.- T his is more than a=0Astandard AN-4 bolt (50-70 inches).=0A=0A2) Hand tight is probably too tight.- You should be able to get the seals to=0Ahold pos ition (when rotating the wheel in the correct direction) before=0Areaching the maximum you can tighten by hand tight.=0A=0A3) Be sure to lubricate the seals and mating surfaces with grease, this will=0Ahelp them hold position .=0A=0A4) Once you put weight on the nose wheel, the friction of the bearin g will=0Ahelp hold the seals in place too.=0A=0A5) Make sure there is no gr ease between the seal and the nut.- This friction=0Awill help hold the se al in place. =0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-se rver(at)matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behal f Of Kelly McMullen=0ASent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 1:24 AM=0ASubject: RV10- List: Landing gear questions=0A=0A=0AHas anyone gone with the Cleveland rec ommended Mobil SHC100 Aviation grease=0Afor their wheel bearings? Any sourc e for less than the 4lb can SkyGeek sells=0Afor about 45 bucks?=0AWheel bol t torque for the Matco NW511.25 nose wheel. Not one scrap of paper=0Acame w ith mine besides the invoice. Can't find anything on their website.=0AI'm g uessing some where around 90-100 in/lb, but would like to get it right.=0A =0A=0A________________________________- Message 2- =0A_________________ ist: Landing gear questions=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>=0A =0A=0AThanks Bob. Just what I needed.=0A=0AOn Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 2:33 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:=0A>=0A> There was a several page pa mphlet that came with my nose wheel.=0A> Unfortunately, it's at the hangar or I would give you a quick response.=0A> I'll try to remember to look for it the next time I head to the hangar. I=0A> would just give Matco a quick call or drop them an email if you need a quick=0A> answer.=0A>=0A> Here's s omething I found on Tim's site=0A> (http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/2 0090120/index.html):=0A>=0A> Some tips from Matco on installation (Thanks P hil)=0A> Per Phil's talk with Matco:=0A>=0A> "I just got off the phone with Matco and thought I'd pass along some=0A> information that is not included in their documentation."=0A>=0A>=0A> 1) The wheel halves should be torqued to 99 inches. This is more than a=0A> standard AN-4 bolt (50-70 inches). =0A=0A=0A________________________________- Message 3- =0A______________ 0-List: Landing gear questions=0AFrom: Phil Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>=0A =0A=0AI'm not 100% sure this is the link they sent me, but I think it is. - It is under=0Asection H.=0A=0Ahttp://static.veracart.com/matco/item_pdf s/2665/document1.pdf=0A=0AI did call them several times to confirm the 99 i nches because I couldn't find=0Ait documented anywhere.=0A=0APhil=0A=0AOn J un 7, 2011, at 7:12 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:=0A=0A> =0A> Thanks Bob. Just what I needed.=0A> =0A> On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 2:33 A M, Bob Leffler wrote:=0A>> =0A>> There was a several p age pamphlet that came with my nose wheel.=0A>> Unfortunately, it's at the hangar or I would give you a quick response.=0A>> I'll try to remember to l ook for it the next time I head to the hangar.- I=0A>> would just give Ma tco a quick call or drop them an email if you need a quick=0A>> answer.=0A> > =0A>> Here's something I found on Tim's site=0A>> (http://www.myrv10.com/ N104CD/upgrades/20090120/index.html):=0A>> =0A>> Some tips from Matco on in stallation (Thanks Phil)=0A>> Per Phil's talk with Matco:=0A>> =0A>> "I jus t got off the phone with Matco and thought I'd pass along some=0A>> informa tion that is not included in their documentation."=0A>> =0A>> =0A>> 1) The wheel halves should be torqued to 99 inches.- This is more than a=0A>> st andard AN-4 bolt (50-70 inches).=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A=0A=0A_________ _______________________- Message 4- =0A________________________________ l NW511.25=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>=0A=0A>From the source :=0A=0A---------- Forwarded message ----------=0AFrom: TECH <tech@matcomfg. com>=0ASubject: RE: Nose Wheel NW511.25=0A=0A=0AKelly,=0AYou can refer to t he General Wheel and Brake data in our Technical section=0Aat=0A=0Ahttp://s tatic.veracart.com/matco/item_pdfs/2665/document1.pdf=0A=0AThe AN4 bolts us e 80 in-lb.=0A=0A=0AThank you,=0A=0A=0AGeorge R Happ=0AMATCO mfg=0A801-335- 0582 801-335-0581 (F)=0Awww.matcomfg.com=0ATechnical Support Disclaimer: Wh ile we strive to ensure that the=0Aadvice/information provided through our support is correct, MATCO mfg does=0Anot accept any responsibility for erro rs or omissions. Any advice or=0Ainformation that MATCO mfg gives you via a ny form of communication is not a=0Aguarantee that it will correct your pro blem. It is only offered as=0Aassistance to you.=0AMATCO mfg will not be he ld responsible for any loss or damage as a result of=0Aour advice or inform ation supplied.=0A=0A________________________________- Message 5- =0A__ ect: Re: RV10-List: Fwd: Nose Wheel NW511.25=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot 2(at)gmail.com>=0A=0ABTW, I double checked with Matco in that the drawing had an erroneous 50=0Ain-lb.=0AThey confirmed the 80-in.lbs and have revised th eir drawing and other=0Areferences to the correct 80 figure.=0A=0AOn Tue, J un 7, 2011 at 6:49 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:=0A=0A> >Fr om the source:=0A>=0A> ---------- Forwarded message ----------=0A> From: TE CH =0A> Date: Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 6:22 AM=0A> Subject: R E: Nose Wheel NW511.25=0A> To: Kelly McMullen =0A>=0A> =0A> Kelly,=0A> You can refer to the General Wheel and Brake data in our Te chnical section=0A> at=0A>=0A> http://static.veracart.com/matco/item_pdfs/2 665/document1.pdf=0A>=0A> The AN4 bolts use 80 in-lb.=0A>=0A>=0A> Thank you ,=0A>=0A>=0A> George R Happ=0A> MATCO mfg=0A> 801-335-0582 801-335-0581 (F) =0A> www.matcomfg.com=0A> Technical Support Disclaimer: While we strive to ensure that the=0A> advice/information provided through our support is corr ect, MATCO mfg does=0A> not accept any responsibility for errors or omissio ns. Any advice or=0A> information that MATCO mfg gives you via any form of communication is not a=0A> guarantee that it will correct your problem. It is only offered as=0A> assistance to you.=0A> MATCO mfg will not be held re sponsible for any loss or damage as a result=0A> of=0A> our advice or infor mation supplied.=0A>=0A=0A________________________________- Message 6- =0AFrom: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: GRT EIS fuel pressure sender - "better"=0A=0A=0AI bought the same sender fr om the beginning. =0AI would also recommend the higher end EGT probes. =0A- Scott=0A=0ASent from my iPhone=0A=0AOn Jun 5, 2011, at 12:13 PM, Tim Olson wrote:=0A=0A> Before I was even flying and while I bought my stuff, I had asked GRT if what=0AI was buying was the best I can do on s tuff.- They said that many Lancair folks=0Abuy this fuel pressure sender instead of the standard one they supply.- Knowing=0Athat most Lancair bui lders don't care about $10 or $20 upcharges, as I don't=0Aeither, if it giv es better quality, I purchased this sender.- It's been flawless=0Afor 725 + hours. The oil pressure sender is their standard one and has also=0Abeen flawless.=0A> =0A> You might want to just get the better sender if you have problems.- See =0A>attached:=0A> =0A> P/n: 2000132=0A> Model: MSP-300-10 0-P-4-A-1=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>
=0A> =0A> =0A> <
      /font>
=0A=0A=0A________________________________- Message 7- =0A__ : Tim Olson =0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: GRT EIS fuel pressur e sender - "better"=0A=0A=0A=0ADitto...as Scott says, ask them (GRT) for th e Hastelloy EGT=0Aprobes if you ever change EGT probes.=0ATim=0A=0A=0AOn 6/ 7/2011 11:25 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:=0A> -->- RV10-List message posted b y: Scott Schmidt=0A>=0A> I bought the same sender from the beginning.=0A> I would also recommend the higher end EGT probes. =0A> -Scott=0A>=0A> Sent from my iPhone=0A>=0A> On Jun 5, 2011, at 12:13 PM , Tim Olson- wrote:=0A>=0A>> Before I was even flying and while I bought my stuff, I had asked GRT if what=0AI was buying was the be st I can do on stuff.- They said that many Lancair folks=0Abuy this fuel pressure sender instead of the standard one they supply.- Knowing=0Athat most Lancair builders don't care about $10 or $20 upcharges, as I don't=0Ae ither, if it gives better quality, I purchased this sender.- It's been fl awless=0Afor 725+ hours. The oil pressure sender is their standard one and has=0Aalso been flawless.=0A>>=0A>> You might want to just get the better s ender if you have problems.- See =0A>>attached:=0A>>=0A>> P/n: 2000132=0A >> Model: MSP-300-100-P-4-A-1=0A>>=0A>> =0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A> >=0A>>
=0A>>=0A>>=0A>> 
=0A>=0A=0A=0A___________________________ _____- Message 8- =0A_____________________________________=0A=0A=0ATime allagher" =0A=0A=0AHey Guys,=0A=0AI've about finished up with Linn's idea of using a micro controller and RC =0Aservos=0Ato opera te a small tab extension on the aileron and rudder.=0A=0AHere's a first, so mewhat crude, youtube video of my demonstrator: =0A=0Ahttp://www.youtube.co m/watch?v=rPFUCQeOM4Q =0A=0AThe servos are digital, high torque (88.88 oz -in) that weigh 1.59 oz.- They are=0Anot like the old analog servos -- th ey don't "hunt". They have carbonite gear=0Asets and there are metal contro l arms available.- The idea is that they are =0Alight=0Aweight enough to mount on a small access panel inside the rudder and aileron.=0AThe digital readout can be customized to pretty much whatever the pilot=0Awants -- or t o a bar LED like the one supplied for the elevator trim.- I like=0Athe di gital cuz it gives a much more refined position, and cuz it was more of=0Aa challenge, but I'm aware that most pilots probably would see that as a =0A distraction.=0A=0AThe switches would be incorporated into the hat switch, t oggle on the stick, or=0Aon the panel.- Brightness of the digital display is controlable.- I was =0Aconcerned=0Athat the signal to the pulse motor servos might be compromised by the length=0Aof the wire, so I put 25 ft. o n each -- and they work fine.=0A=0AI programmed in the feature to "save" th e position you want, so that you don't=0Ahave to reset the trim every time you start up the plane (i.e., the basic =0Aprogram=0Asets the servo to neut ral each time it powers up).=0A=0AI got most of the materials off Ebay and RadioShack for the demo. Probably =0Aaround=0A$100.=0A=0A=0AThe brain of th e system is the Parallax BS2 micro controller and I've built in=0Athe MAX72 19 8-digit display driver to control the digital displays.- I started=0Af rom zero and taught myself enough Pbasic to program this thing to do- wha t I=0Awanted it to do -- WHAT A BLAST!!=0A=0AIf I can talk Wes into it, I'l l probably build these into an aileron and the =0Arudder=0Athat I have for the next -10 I'm building, then swap them out in his plane=0Ato see if they work.- If they don't or no one likes them, it's still been an=0Aawesome project.=0A=0A=0ALater, - Lew=0A=0A--------=0Anon-pilot=0Acrazy about build ing=0ANOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549=0AFly off completed !=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34232 3#342323=0A=0A=0A________________________________- Message 9- =0A______ rey Wittich =0ASubject: RV10-List: Anybody goin g to Golden West Fly-in ?????=0A=0ALooking for a ride or somebody can fly w ith me in our Club's C172 based here in=0A=0ASanta Monica (KSMO) - Wx permi tting of course.- Always more fun to fly with =0Asomebody and share the e xperience / cost ???=0A=0AGarey Wittich- (RV8A Builder, CFI, MEI)=0A=0A(3 ==================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East"
From: "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 11, 2011
It would be a shame to miss Charleston if you're coming all the way down to SC. You can try CHS (for better ground transportation options). An overnight just to scratch the surface of what to do and what to see down there.. If you're flying through the NC midlands around lunch time, stop by 5NC3 for some tasty pulled pork BBQ... Enjoy the trip.. sounds like a lot of fun. -------- RV-7A N777TY Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342714#342714 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East"
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 12, 2011
Jack, With the SFRA, I didn't know you could even fly VFR into Dulles? You just file the SFRA flight plan and then talk to approach? I'll have to try it sometime. You really flew your Air Camper in? cjay[/quote] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342790#342790 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East"
Date: Jun 12, 2011
Yes, you've got to have a transponder and radio, and you have to get a clearance just like going into Class B, but it can be done. If you're instrument rated it is actually easier to go in on an instrument flight plan. VFR is a bit of a pain. Let me caution you that they haven't got a clue about little airplanes there. I landed and got it stopped in about 400', but went just past the first turnoff. The next taxiway was over a mile down the runway. I'm probably the only pilot who ever asked Dulles tower for permission to turn around and back-taxi to the turnoff, but they granted it. We parked with several other planes for the night at Dulles Jet Service (we had all been invited to bring our planes to the Udvar-Hazy Museum for their Be a Pilot Family Day). Dulles Jet had acres of concrete, without a tie-down in sight. My Pietenpol has 21" wheels (I'm flying it to Oshkosh if you want to see it) and with thunderstorms forecast for that evening I was not comfortable just leaving it chocked overnight. I inquired about putting it in the hangar and was told "$198". I said I just needed it for a night - not the whole month. That WAS the price for one night. I remarked that with those big wheels my 700 lb airplane would hop a chock in a heartbeat, but I guess it wouldn't blow into that Gulfstream over there. When I got there the next morning, my plane was in a hangar - no charge. Jack Phillips Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP RV-10 #40610 Wings Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 1:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" Jack, With the SFRA, I didn't know you could even fly VFR into Dulles? You just file the SFRA flight plan and then talk to approach? I'll have to try it sometime. You really flew your Air Camper in? cjay[/quote] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342790#342790 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East"
Date: Jun 12, 2011
Also remember that you do have to go online and take a TEST in order to fly within 60 n.m. of KDCA. And then of course either file a special VFR flight plan or file IFR to go within the 30 n.m. radius of KDCA. The Test is easy, and should only take 45 minutes or so. When I went into Baybridge, East of KBWI, ATC was very helpfull. I came up from the South and just skirted the 30 n.m. arc from KDCA. Thane rv-10 180hrs. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jack Phillips To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 5:10 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" Yes, you've got to have a transponder and radio, and you have to get a clearance just like going into Class B, but it can be done. If you're instrument rated it is actually easier to go in on an instrument flight plan. VFR is a bit of a pain. Let me caution you that they haven't got a clue about little airplanes there. I landed and got it stopped in about 400', but went just past the first turnoff. The next taxiway was over a mile down the runway. I'm probably the only pilot who ever asked Dulles tower for permission to turn around and back-taxi to the turnoff, but they granted it. We parked with several other planes for the night at Dulles Jet Service (we had all been invited to bring our planes to the Udvar-Hazy Museum for their Be a Pilot Family Day). Dulles Jet had acres of concrete, without a tie-down in sight. My Pietenpol has 21" wheels (I'm flying it to Oshkosh if you want to see it) and with thunderstorms forecast for that evening I was not comfortable just leaving it chocked overnight. I inquired about putting it in the hangar and was told "$198". I said I just needed it for a night - not the whole month. That WAS the price for one night. I remarked that with those big wheels my 700 lb airplane would hop a chock in a heartbeat, but I guess it wouldn't blow into that Gulfstream over there. When I got there the next morning, my plane was in a hangar - no charge. Jack Phillips Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP RV-10 #40610 Wings Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 1:50 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" Jack, With the SFRA, I didn't know you could even fly VFR into Dulles? You just file the SFRA flight plan and then talk to approach? I'll have to try it sometime. You really flew your Air Camper in? cjay[/quote] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342790#342790 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East"
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jun 12, 2011
An update for y'all... The Charleston suggestion was great! We toured the Yorktown today among oth er things, and tomorrow we're heading North through Kitty Hawk and up to the DC area. We've got a lot of stops along the way. I have to take the SFRA c ourse tonight. Is it customary to get flight following up the coast at 1000agl past all the restricted airspace in NC, or just do it alone not talking to anyone, stayi ng out of the airspaces? I'm happy either way....but just want to know what's common. Looking forward to the trip. Leaning towards Leesburg as the entry point. Tim On Jun 12, 2011, at 5:10 PM, "Jack Phillips" wrote: > Yes, you've got to have a transponder and radio, and you have to get a cle arance just like going into Class B, but it can be done. If you're instrume nt rated it is actually easier to go in on an instrument flight plan. VFR i s a bit of a pain. > > Let me caution you that they haven't got a clue about little airplanes the re. I landed and got it stopped in about 400', but went just past the first turnoff. The next taxiway was over a mile down the runway. I'm probably t he only pilot who ever asked Dulles tower for permission to turn around and b ack-taxi to the turnoff, but they granted it. > > We parked with several other planes for the night at Dulles Jet Service (w e had all been invited to bring our planes to the Udvar-Hazy Museum for thei r Be a Pilot Family Day). Dulles Jet had acres of concrete, without a tie-d own in sight. My Pietenpol has 21" wheels (I'm flying it to Oshkosh if you w ant to see it) and with thunderstorms forecast for that evening I was not co mfortable just leaving it chocked overnight. I inquired about putting it in the hangar and was told "$198". I said I just needed it for a night - not t he whole month. That WAS the price for one night. > > I remarked that with those big wheels my 700 lb airplane would hop a chock in a heartbeat, but I guess it wouldn't blow into that Gulfstream over ther e. When I got there the next morning, my plane was in a hangar - no charge. > > > > Jack Phillips > Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP > RV-10 #40610 Wings > Raleigh, NC > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay > Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 1:50 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" > > > Jack, > > With the SFRA, I didn't know you could even fly VFR into Dulles? You just f ile the SFRA flight plan and then talk to approach? I'll have to try it som etime. > You really flew your Air Camper in? > > cjay[/quote] > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342790#342790 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Breaking nose pants
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jun 12, 2011
Hey guys, This will be the FOURTH (original and three replacements) nose wheel pants I've made. Apparently on hard landings, low tire pressure, whatever, the tire grabs the sides of the opening, curls them in and breaks off the tail of the pants. I can see tire burn on the broken edges, so it must be that when the tire flattens, then rotates before it can reshape, it grabs the fiberglass. Note that the glass is not laid for structure (on a bias) and it's a clean break along the weave. I've opened the width much more than Van's calls for this last time in hopes to eliminate the problem. I got tired of ordering a new blank, so this time I put the damaged one back together. Three layers of cloth on a bias along the inner seam, one on the outer, smoothed with resin/micro beads, primed and feathered in. I won't redo the paint job until we find out if it's a fix. Anyone else find this to be a problem? I don't recall anyone posting this before. Let me know - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342821#342821 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/patch2_medium_109.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/patch1_medium_104.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/brkncone_medium_116.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2011
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East"
Yep, I do intend to get online tonight and take the test, so I should be ready to go. If one of you more local guys wants to comment on my potential route at the end, punch go to http://runwayfinder.com/ and copy and paste this string into the line: KWWD; VPAXI; VPACE; BRV; FLUKY; CSN; KLUA; W99; KJYO Very roughly, this longer version is what I'm kind of thinking for tomorrow: KCHS; VPNPO; VPRRS; SUT; 01NC; PMZ; KFFA; KNTU; KMFV; KOXB; KGED; KWWD; VPAXI; VPACE; BRV; FLUKY; CSN; KLUA; W99; KJYO ...of course, completely avoiding any restricted areas. I'd rather just avoid them then deal with the constant radio work to see if they're active or not. If I had flight following it would be easier, but this routing kind of leaves me to be fairly free other than when passing by some bigger airports where I'd have to call approach and/or go out over the ocean a couple miles. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD On 6/12/2011 6:38 PM, Thane States wrote: > Also remember that you do have to go online and take a TEST in order to > fly within 60 n.m. of KDCA. And then of course either file a special VFR > flight plan or file IFR to go within the 30 n.m. radius of KDCA. The > Test is easy, and should only take 45 minutes or so. When I went into > Baybridge, East of KBWI, ATC was very helpfull. I came up from the South > and just skirted the 30 n.m. arc from KDCA. > Thane > rv-10 > 180hrs. > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Jack Phillips > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Sunday, June 12, 2011 5:10 PM > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of > the East" > > Yes, you've got to have a transponder and radio, and you have to get > a clearance just like going into Class B, but it can be done. If > you're instrument rated it is actually easier to go in on an > instrument flight plan. VFR is a bit of a pain. > > Let me caution you that they haven't got a clue about little > airplanes there. I landed and got it stopped in about 400', but went > just past the first turnoff. The next taxiway was over a mile down > the runway. I'm probably the only pilot who ever asked Dulles tower > for permission to turn around and back-taxi to the turnoff, but they > granted it. > > We parked with several other planes for the night at Dulles Jet > Service (we had all been invited to bring our planes to the > Udvar-Hazy Museum for their Be a Pilot Family Day). Dulles Jet had > acres of concrete, without a tie-down in sight. My Pietenpol has 21" > wheels (I'm flying it to Oshkosh if you want to see it) and with > thunderstorms forecast for that evening I was not comfortable just > leaving it chocked overnight. I inquired about putting it in the > hangar and was told "$198". I said I just needed it for a night - > not the whole month. That WAS the price for one night. > > I remarked that with those big wheels my 700 lb airplane would hop a > chock in a heartbeat, but I guess it wouldn't blow into that > Gulfstream over there. When I got there the next morning, my plane > was in a hangar - no charge. > > Jack Phillips > > Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP > > RV-10 #40610 Wings > > Raleigh, NC > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay > Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 1:50 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" > > > Jack, > > With the SFRA, I didn't know you could even fly VFR into Dulles? You > just file the SFRA flight plan and then talk to approach? I'll have > to try it sometime. > > You really flew your Air Camper in? > > cjay[/quote] > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342790#342790 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East"
Date: Jun 12, 2011
Flying along the East Coast or Outer Banks I normally use flight following. No need to stay low from Charleston to FFA. Stay east of the areas around Cherry Point as those areas tend to be hot. FFA to JYO - file for the SFRA before you leave FFA, giving them an estimated arrival time at the JYO entry point. Stay south and west outside the SFRA until you get to the JYO entry point. Reminder that you will need to say under the Dulles (IAD) class B as your come up from the south. Here is the link: http://tfr.faa.gov/save_pages/detail_0_4965.html An alternative is to stay out of the SFRA and land at Stafford Regional (RMN). Various hotels and B&Bs available in Fredericksburg and you can ride the VRE train downtown. Currituck, NC (ONX) has the best fuel price around and is right on your flight path. Top off there before you get hit in the wallet at JYO. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 7:42 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" An update for y'all... The Charleston suggestion was great! We toured the Yorktown today among other things, and tomorrow we're heading North through Kitty Hawk and up to the DC area. We've got a lot of stops along the way. I have to take the SFRA course tonight. Is it customary to get flight following up the coast at 1000agl past all the restricted airspace in NC, or just do it alone not talking to anyone, staying out of the airspaces? I'm happy either way....but just want to know what's common. Looking forward to the trip. Leaning towards Leesburg as the entry point. Tim On Jun 12, 2011, at 5:10 PM, "Jack Phillips" wrote: Yes, you've got to have a transponder and radio, and you have to get a clearance just like going into Class B, but it can be done. If you're instrument rated it is actually easier to go in on an instrument flight plan. VFR is a bit of a pain. Let me caution you that they haven't got a clue about little airplanes there. I landed and got it stopped in about 400', but went just past the first turnoff. The next taxiway was over a mile down the runway. I'm probably the only pilot who ever asked Dulles tower for permission to turn around and back-taxi to the turnoff, but they granted it. We parked with several other planes for the night at Dulles Jet Service (we had all been invited to bring our planes to the Udvar-Hazy Museum for their Be a Pilot Family Day). Dulles Jet had acres of concrete, without a tie-down in sight. My Pietenpol has 21" wheels (I'm flying it to Oshkosh if you want to see it) and with thunderstorms forecast for that evening I was not comfortable just leaving it chocked overnight. I inquired about putting it in the hangar and was told "$198". I said I just needed it for a night - not the whole month. That WAS the price for one night. I remarked that with those big wheels my 700 lb airplane would hop a chock in a heartbeat, but I guess it wouldn't blow into that Gulfstream over there. When I got there the next morning, my plane was in a hangar - no charge. Jack Phillips Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP RV-10 #40610 Wings Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 1:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" Jack, With the SFRA, I didn't know you could even fly VFR into Dulles? You just file the SFRA flight plan and then talk to approach? I'll have to try it sometime. You really flew your Air Camper in? cjay[/quote] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342790#342790 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East"
Date: Jun 12, 2011
I meant stay west of the areas around Cherry Point. From: Carl Froehlich [mailto:carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 8:49 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" Flying along the East Coast or Outer Banks I normally use flight following. No need to stay low from Charleston to FFA. Stay east of the areas around Cherry Point as those areas tend to be hot. FFA to JYO - file for the SFRA before you leave FFA, giving them an estimated arrival time at the JYO entry point. Stay south and west outside the SFRA until you get to the JYO entry point. Reminder that you will need to say under the Dulles (IAD) class B as your come up from the south. Here is the link: http://tfr.faa.gov/save_pages/detail_0_4965.html An alternative is to stay out of the SFRA and land at Stafford Regional (RMN). Various hotels and B&Bs available in Fredericksburg and you can ride the VRE train downtown. Currituck, NC (ONX) has the best fuel price around and is right on your flight path. Top off there before you get hit in the wallet at JYO. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 7:42 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" An update for y'all... The Charleston suggestion was great! We toured the Yorktown today among other things, and tomorrow we're heading North through Kitty Hawk and up to the DC area. We've got a lot of stops along the way. I have to take the SFRA course tonight. Is it customary to get flight following up the coast at 1000agl past all the restricted airspace in NC, or just do it alone not talking to anyone, staying out of the airspaces? I'm happy either way....but just want to know what's common. Looking forward to the trip. Leaning towards Leesburg as the entry point. Tim On Jun 12, 2011, at 5:10 PM, "Jack Phillips" wrote: Yes, you've got to have a transponder and radio, and you have to get a clearance just like going into Class B, but it can be done. If you're instrument rated it is actually easier to go in on an instrument flight plan. VFR is a bit of a pain. Let me caution you that they haven't got a clue about little airplanes there. I landed and got it stopped in about 400', but went just past the first turnoff. The next taxiway was over a mile down the runway. I'm probably the only pilot who ever asked Dulles tower for permission to turn around and back-taxi to the turnoff, but they granted it. We parked with several other planes for the night at Dulles Jet Service (we had all been invited to bring our planes to the Udvar-Hazy Museum for their Be a Pilot Family Day). Dulles Jet had acres of concrete, without a tie-down in sight. My Pietenpol has 21" wheels (I'm flying it to Oshkosh if you want to see it) and with thunderstorms forecast for that evening I was not comfortable just leaving it chocked overnight. I inquired about putting it in the hangar and was told "$198". I said I just needed it for a night - not the whole month. That WAS the price for one night. I remarked that with those big wheels my 700 lb airplane would hop a chock in a heartbeat, but I guess it wouldn't blow into that Gulfstream over there. When I got there the next morning, my plane was in a hangar - no charge. Jack Phillips Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP RV-10 #40610 Wings Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 1:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Need Airport/Sightsee advice "Best of the East" Jack, With the SFRA, I didn't know you could even fly VFR into Dulles? You just file the SFRA flight plan and then talk to approach? I'll have to try it sometime. You really flew your Air Camper in? cjay[/quote] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342790#342790 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Re: Breaking nose pants
Date: Jun 12, 2011
How much clearance between stationary tire and pant? Should be at least 1" all the way around. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 4:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Breaking nose pants > > Hey guys, > > This will be the FOURTH (original and three replacements) nose wheel > pants I've made. Apparently on hard landings, low tire pressure, > whatever, the tire grabs the sides of the opening, curls them in and > breaks off the tail of the pants. > > I can see tire burn on the broken edges, so it must be that when the tire > flattens, then rotates before it can reshape, it grabs the fiberglass. > Note that the glass is not laid for structure (on a bias) and it's a clean > break along the weave. > > I've opened the width much more than Van's calls for this last time in > hopes to eliminate the problem. I got tired of ordering a new blank, so > this time I put the damaged one back together. Three layers of cloth on a > bias along the inner seam, one on the outer, smoothed with resin/micro > beads, primed and feathered in. I won't redo the paint job until we find > out if it's a fix. > > Anyone else find this to be a problem? I don't recall anyone posting this > before. Let me know - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Fly off completed ! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342821#342821 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/patch2_medium_109.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/patch1_medium_104.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/brkncone_medium_116.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling Question
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jun 12, 2011
I'm getting ready to install the wheel pants. The directions say to raise the plane do the wheels are 1/16" off the ground and level longitudinally and laterally. To get it level longitudinally, the nose wheel is 1/16", but the mains are about 2" off the ground. I am leveling to the F-1015C mid cabin deck. Is this what others have seen? Just wanna make sure I'm not missing something... Don't want to be misaligned and slow my bird down!! -Mike Kraus 15.5 hours and still grinning! Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jun 13, 2011
Subject: Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling Question
VGhhdCBzb3VuZHMgYWJvdXQgcmlnaHQuCgpDYXJsCgpTZW50IGZyb20gbXkgcGhvbmUuwqAgUGxl YXNlIHJlYWQgcGFzdCB0aGUgdHlwb3MuCgotLS0tLU9yaWdpbmFsIG1lc3NhZ2UtLS0tLQpGcm9t OiBNaWNoYWVsIEtyYXVzIDxuMjIzcnZAd29sZmxha2VhaXJwb3J0Lm5ldD4KVG86IHJ2MTAtbGlz dEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tClNlbnQ6IE1vbiwgSnVuIDEzLCAyMDExIDAyOjA0OjIzIEdNVCswMDow MApTdWJqZWN0OiBSVjEwLUxpc3Q6IFdoZWVsIEZhaXJpbmcvIFBsYW5lIExldmVsaW5nIFF1ZXN0 aW9uCgotLT4gUlYxMC1MaXN0IG1lc3NhZ2UgcG9zdGVkIGJ5OiBNaWNoYWVsIEtyYXVzIDxuMjIz cnZAd29sZmxha2VhaXJwb3J0Lm5ldD4KCkknbSBnZXR0aW5nIHJlYWR5IHRvIGluc3RhbGwgdGhl IHdoZWVsIHBhbnRzLiAgVGhlIGRpcmVjdGlvbnMgc2F5IHRvIHJhaXNlIHRoZSBwbGFuZSBkbyB0 aGUgd2hlZWxzIGFyZSAxLzE2IiBvZmYgdGhlIGdyb3VuZCBhbmQgbGV2ZWwgbG9uZ2l0dWRpbmFs bHkgYW5kIGxhdGVyYWxseS4gIFRvIGdldCBpdCBsZXZlbCBsb25naXR1ZGluYWxseSwgdGhlIG5v c2Ugd2hlZWwgaXMgMS8xNiIsIGJ1dCB0aGUgbWFpbnMgYXJlIGFib3V0IDIiIG9mZiB0aGUgZ3Jv dW5kLiAgSSBhbSBsZXZlbGluZyB0byB0aGUgRi0xMDE1QyBtaWQgY2FiaW4gZGVjay4KCklzIHRo aXMgd2hhdCBvdGhlcnMgaGF2ZSBzZWVuPyAKCkp1c3Qgd2FubmEgbWFrZSBzdXJlIEknbSBub3Qg bWlzc2luZyBzb21ldGhpbmcuLi4gIERvbid0IHdhbnQgdG8gYmUgbWlzYWxpZ25lZCBhbmQgc2xv dyBteSBiaXJkIGRvd24hIQoKLU1pa2UgS3JhdXMKMTUuNSBob3VycyBhbmQgc3RpbGwgZ3Jpbm5p bmchCgpTZW50IGZyb20gbXkgaVBob25lCgpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQpfLT0gICAgICAgICAgLSBUaGUgUlYxMC1M aXN0IEVtYWlsIEZvcnVtIC0KXy09IFVzZSB0aGUgTWF0cm9uaWNzIExpc3QgRmVhdHVyZXMgTmF2 aWdhdG9yIHRvIGJyb3dzZQpfLT0gdGhlIG1hbnkgTGlzdCB1dGlsaXRpZXMgc3VjaCBhcyBMaXN0 IFVuL1N1YnNjcmlwdGlvbiwKXy09IEFyY2hpdmUgU2VhcmNoICYgRG93bmxvYWQsIDctRGF5IEJy b3dzZSwgQ2hhdCwgRkFRLApfLT0gUGhvdG9zaGFyZSwgYW5kIG11Y2ggbXVjaCBtb3JlOgpfLT0K Xy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9OYXZpZ2F0b3I/UlYxMC1MaXN0Cl8t PQpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PQpfLT0gICAgICAgICAgICAgICAtIE1BVFJPTklDUyBXRUIgRk9SVU1TIC0KXy09IFNh bWUgZ3JlYXQgY29udGVudCBhbHNvIGF2YWlsYWJsZSB2aWEgdGhlIFdlYiBGb3J1bXMhCl8tPQpf LT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDovL2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tCl8tPQpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQpfLT0gICAgICAg ICAgICAgLSBMaXN0IENvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbiBXZWIgU2l0ZSAtCl8tPSAgVGhhbmsgeW91IGZvciB5 b3VyIGdlbmVyb3VzIHN1cHBvcnQhCl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgIC1N YXR0IERyYWxsZSwgTGlzdCBBZG1pbi4KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNv bS9jb250cmlidXRpb24KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0KCgo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: Breaking nose pants
Date: Jun 13, 2011
Yep, mine did that also. The 1st. time was from a firm landing with a heavy airplane and aft c.g. It tore up the back bottom area of both main wheel pants. A veteran RV builder had told me that my pants would eventually be damaged if set up as per Vans instructions. So I redid them and flattened off the bottom area in front of and to the rear of the tires, giving them more ground clearance. Then I happily went off on an adventure, and tore them up again because I had not provided enough clearance around the tire area, so I fixed them again. I now have no issues, and thankfully, I have not painted yet. Thane ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 7:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Breaking nose pants > > Hey guys, > > This will be the FOURTH (original and three replacements) nose wheel > pants I've made. Apparently on hard landings, low tire pressure, > whatever, the tire grabs the sides of the opening, curls them in and > breaks off the tail of the pants. > > I can see tire burn on the broken edges, so it must be that when the tire > flattens, then rotates before it can reshape, it grabs the fiberglass. > Note that the glass is not laid for structure (on a bias) and it's a clean > break along the weave. > > I've opened the width much more than Van's calls for this last time in > hopes to eliminate the problem. I got tired of ordering a new blank, so > this time I put the damaged one back together. Three layers of cloth on a > bias along the inner seam, one on the outer, smoothed with resin/micro > beads, primed and feathered in. I won't redo the paint job until we find > out if it's a fix. > > Anyone else find this to be a problem? I don't recall anyone posting this > before. Let me know - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Fly off completed ! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342821#342821 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/patch2_medium_109.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/patch1_medium_104.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/brkncone_medium_116.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Sold on whiskers
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jun 13, 2011
Am currently about 36nm from the center of the DC SFRA. Right wing points to DC. Left has my archer nav. I'm at 3000', well high enough. Perfect signal on my SL-30 with whiskers. No signal on my 480, shadowed by the plane. Not good for being so close to F-16 territory. Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Breaking nose pants
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jun 13, 2011
Thanks for the validation, guys. Good to know it's not just Wes's -- bad to know that the plans call for 5/8" clearance and it wasn't on anyone's "gotcha" list. I agree that it should be "at least 1" -- those still building, take note! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342903#342903 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breaking nose pants
Date: Jun 13, 2011
I have found over the years on several homebuilts, that keeping the tire pressure up, say 50 or 60 pounds helps keep the tire from deforming and scraping the pant. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 6:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Breaking nose pants Thanks for the validation, guys. Good to know it's not just Wes's -- bad to know that the plans call for 5/8" clearance and it wasn't on anyone's "gotcha" list. I agree that it should be "at least 1" -- those still building, take note! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342903#342903 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2011
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
As long as you fly around the SFRA in a left hand pattern, should be no problem. ;-) How much time does one spend flying perpendicular to the VOR radials? On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Am currently about 36nm from the center of the DC SFRA. Right wing points > to DC. Left has my archer nav. I'm at 3000', well high enough. > Perfect signal on my SL-30 with whiskers. No signal on my 480, shadowed by > the plane. Not good for being so close to F-16 territory. > Tim > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Date: Jun 13, 2011
I know, I know. ;). But yeah, I was pretty ticked that it wasn't reading bec ause my 480 has a nice mileage readout of distance to station and I use it t o cross check myself. I wanted to guarantee I was outside the SFRA and was s hocked that even 36nm from station it didn't work. Later in the flight at a different angle it started reading at 36nm again. I think using VOR's as cross check is still a good idea, and with the 480, i t is nice because I can easily call and give FSS / atc my position from the v or without a bunch of dialing around as long as I was prepared. Tim On Jun 13, 2011, at 8:44 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > As long as you fly around the SFRA in a left hand pattern, should be no pr oblem. ;-) How much time does one spend flying perpendicular to the VOR radi als? > > On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Am currently about 36nm from the center of the DC SFRA. Right wing points to DC. Left has my archer nav. I'm at 3000', well high enough. > Perfect signal on my SL-30 with whiskers. No signal on my 480, shadowed b y the plane. Not good for being so close to F-16 territory. > Tim > > > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Jun 13, 2011
I have my whiskers mounted under the tail (like Tim). I have a diplexer (or maybe a triplexer??) so my SL-30 and my 430W both use the same antenna. The performance is fantastic. I routinely pick up VOR signals on the SL-30 more than 90 miles out at cruising altitudes and 60 or 70 miles out on the 430W. LOC/GS reception is great on both radios, as well. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342915#342915 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2011
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
If you have a 430 and an SL-30 I am guessing a Triplexer such as http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/comant505.php The 430 has separate inputs for GS and NAV so it need those two split out where as the SL-30 has that built in so only has a single NAV/GS input. -Sean #40303 (panel schtuff) On 6/13/11 8:20 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)me.com" > > I have my whiskers mounted under the tail (like Tim). I have a diplexer (or maybe a triplexer??) so my SL-30 and my 430W both use the same antenna. The performance is fantastic. I routinely pick up VOR signals on the SL-30 more than 90 miles out at cruising altitudes and 60 or 70 miles out on the 430W. LOC/GS reception is great on both radios, as well. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342915#342915 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2011
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Perhaps it would make sense to switch which antenna connect to which radio. On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 6:02 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > I know, I know. ;). But yeah, I was pretty ticked that it wasn't reading > because my 480 has a nice mileage readout of distance to station and I use > it to cross check myself. I wanted to guarantee I was outside the SFRA and > was shocked that even 36nm from station it didn't work. Later in the flight > at a different angle it started reading at 36nm again. > I think using VOR's as cross check is still a good idea, and with the 480, > it is nice because I can easily call and give FSS / atc my position from the > vor without a bunch of dialing around as long as I was prepared. > Tim > > > On Jun 13, 2011, at 8:44 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > As long as you fly around the SFRA in a left hand pattern, should be no > problem. ;-) How much time does one spend flying perpendicular to the VOR > radials? > > On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Tim Olson < > Tim(at)myrv10.com> wrote: > >> Tim(at)myrv10.com> >> >> Am currently about 36nm from the center of the DC SFRA. Right wing points >> to DC. Left has my archer nav. I'm at 3000', well high enough. >> Perfect signal on my SL-30 with whiskers. No signal on my 480, shadowed >> by the plane. Not good for being so close to F-16 territory. >> Tim >> >> >> >> >> ========== >> arget="_blank"> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> <http://forums.matronics.com>http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> le, List Admin. >> ="_blank"> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> > * > > ================================== > ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ===================================ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > ===================================http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ================================== > * > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jun 13, 2011
Nah...if I have to choose, the one that goes to my cheltons (SL-30) will win every time. But the 480 makes an awesome Nav/com. Tim On Jun 13, 2011, at 10:21 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > Perhaps it would make sense to switch which antenna connect to which radio . > > On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 6:02 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > I know, I know. ;). But yeah, I was pretty ticked that it wasn't reading b ecause my 480 has a nice mileage readout of distance to station and I use it to cross check myself. I wanted to guarantee I was outside the SFRA and wa s shocked that even 36nm from station it didn't work. Later in the flight a t a different angle it started reading at 36nm again. > I think using VOR's as cross check is still a good idea, and with the 480, it is nice because I can easily call and give FSS / atc my position from th e vor without a bunch of dialing around as long as I was prepared. > Tim > > > > On Jun 13, 2011, at 8:44 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > >> As long as you fly around the SFRA in a left hand pattern, should be no p roblem. ;-) How much time does one spend flying perpendicular to the VOR rad ials? >> >> On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >> >> Am currently about 36nm from the center of the DC SFRA. Right wing point s to DC. Left has my archer nav. I'm at 3000', well high enough. >> Perfect signal on my SL-30 with whiskers. No signal on my 480, shadowed b y the plane. Not good for being so close to F-16 territory. >> Tim >> >> >> >> >> ========== >> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> le, List Admin. >> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ========= >> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========= >> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========= >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion >> ========= >> > > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
Or use a diplexer to feed both nav radios with the cat whiskers. On 6/13/2011 8:23 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > Nah...if I have to choose, the one that goes to my cheltons (SL-30) > will win every time. But the 480 makes an awesome Nav/com. > Tim > > > On Jun 13, 2011, at 10:21 PM, Kelly McMullen > wrote: > >> Perhaps it would make sense to switch which antenna connect to which >> radio. >> >> On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 6:02 PM, Tim Olson > > wrote: >> >> I know, I know. ;). But yeah, I was pretty ticked that it wasn't >> reading because my 480 has a nice mileage readout of distance to >> station and I use it to cross check myself. I wanted to >> guarantee I was outside the SFRA and was shocked that even 36nm >> from station it didn't work. Later in the flight at a different >> angle it started reading at 36nm again. >> I think using VOR's as cross check is still a good idea, and with >> the 480, it is nice because I can easily call and give FSS / atc >> my position from the vor without a bunch of dialing around as >> long as I was prepared. >> Tim >> >> >> >> On Jun 13, 2011, at 8:44 PM, Kelly McMullen > > wrote: >> >>> As long as you fly around the SFRA in a left hand pattern, >>> should be no problem. ;-) How much time does one spend flying >>> perpendicular to the VOR radials? >>> >>> On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Tim Olson >> > wrote: >>> >>> > >>> >>> Am currently about 36nm from the center of the DC SFRA. >>> Right wing points to DC. Left has my archer nav. I'm at >>> 3000', well high enough. >>> Perfect signal on my SL-30 with whiskers. No signal on my >>> 480, shadowed by the plane. Not good for being so close to >>> F-16 territory. >>> Tim >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ========== >>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> ========== >>> http://forums.matronics.com >>> ========== >>> le, List Admin. >>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> ========== >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> * >>> >>> ========= >>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> ========= >>> ums.matronics.com <http://ums.matronics.com>">http://forums.matronics.com >>> ========= >>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> ========= >>> >>> * >> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * >> >> >> * >> >> >> * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling Question
Sounds right. Since you are assembled and flying, this may not be feasible. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=5629 With nosewheel removed, there's only the need to jack the main gear off a minimal distance. BTW, I found a simple laser line shot from tail forward provides a great centerline. You can actually split the rivets on the fuse and split the nose gear. Then used a piece of angle iron on the floor. The angle iron was heavy enough not to move while hitting it repeatedly with the measuring tape. Knee pads will be good too. On 6/12/2011 10:04 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus > > I'm getting ready to install the wheel pants. The directions say to raise the plane do the wheels are 1/16" off the ground and level longitudinally and laterally. To get it level longitudinally, the nose wheel is 1/16", but the mains are about 2" off the ground. I am leveling to the F-1015C mid cabin deck. > > Is this what others have seen? > > Just wanna make sure I'm not missing something... Don't want to be misaligned and slow my bird down!! > > -Mike Kraus > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser
Date: Jun 14, 2011
Ok, I also did the unthinkable easy thing and it was on an RV7a. I did NOT hoist the airplane up to put the wheel fairings on. I used a laser that gives both vertical and horizontal planes to align the wheel centerlines up with the fairing and then with a line offset from the centerline of the fuse at front and back. I think these pictures will tell the story. Did both in an afternoon along with the leg fairings. It was possible to get them absolutely parallel with the fuse centerline. Granted in flight they hang at a slightly different angle but the important thing is that they be parallel with the centerline airflow. I have zero rudder trim in cruise and the ball is centered. That is a Stanley Vert/Hor Laser and is self leveling. Lots of uses in setting the emp because it allows you to square two surfaces like the vert stab and the Hor stab as well as checking for level in Hor mode. This what I did: Dropped a plumb line at the rear tie down and made a mark on the floor. Then aligned the laser with the mark and the center of the front gear leg. (yeah you could pull a plumb line but the laser is easy). Mark the floor for the fuse centerline. Then measure carefully from the fuse centerline to the tire centerline on each side. Note the tire is tilted. Then shoot a line across the bare tire with the top center tread, be sure to align a mark about two foot in front of the tire the same distance out from the fuse centerline and align with a equal distance mark at the rear tie down. Now you know the exact parallel line that the fairing should match when installed on the tire. Once you have that line, keep the laser in place and mount the wheel fairing. Then simply align the fairing parallel with the laser line and you automatically match the fuse centerline. Adjust the fairing for parallel to the ground front and back using the plan measurements. Carefully drill to brackets and you are done. Set the plane up again the same way with appropriate distance and reset lines for the leg fairings. Used a line and slip ring to verify the leg fairings were aligned with the fuse and set them. After that, I matched the intersection fairings to the leg and wheel fairings. Hope this helps! If you want to hoist then hoist, this is just another way! Bill S 7a Still got the grin! 48 hours since Jan 2 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 7:09 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling Question Sounds right. Since you are assembled and flying, this may not be feasible. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&cate gory=5629 With nosewheel removed, there's only the need to jack the main gear off a minimal distance. BTW, I found a simple laser line shot from tail forward provides a great centerline. You can actually split the rivets on the fuse and split the nose gear. Then used a piece of angle iron on the floor. The angle iron was heavy enough not to move while hitting it repeatedly with the measuring tape. Knee pads will be good too. On 6/12/2011 10:04 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael > --> Kraus > > I'm getting ready to install the wheel pants. The directions say to raise the plane do the wheels are 1/16" off the ground and level longitudinally and laterally. To get it level longitudinally, the nose wheel is 1/16", but the mains are about 2" off the ground. I am leveling to the F-1015C mid cabin deck. > > Is this what others have seen? > > Just wanna make sure I'm not missing something... Don't want to be misaligned and slow my bird down!! > > -Mike Kraus > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ben Boatright <benboatright(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Subject: Van's Tool Kits
All, I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit. One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax). I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. Thanks, Ben PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or suggestions for where I might look. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Where did you get the laser and what model did you purchase? I can see where this could really help out with several areas of alignment! Bill -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343035#343035 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Ben. We need to have a conversation. I have every thing you need. Call me @573 893 2291. Bob Lynch ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
From: Jonathan Beasley <jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com>
Ben, I went through the tool kit research in February and decided to go with the Avery Kit-106. The kit components are very good quality and you can modify components as needed. I removed the 1001 22" Hand Rivet & Dimpling Tool, 10765 Dimpling Mallet, and the two technical manuals (already had them) and added the DRDT-2 Dimpling Tool. The Avery folks are very friendly and responsive. You'll need to add 3/32" Cleco's (500 total) and 1/8" Cleco s (300 total), and I also recommend getting additional 1/2" and 1" side grip clecos as well. Jonathan Beasley #41236 =AD Tail Cone (Wings coming in July) From: Ben Boatright <benboatright(at)gmail.com> Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2011 08:46:55 -0400 Subject: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits All, I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit. One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax). I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. Thanks, Ben PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or suggestions for where I might look. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jun 15, 2011
It's an exercise in futility..... All the major tool vendors have good kits . I've got tools from several of the vendors based upon getting to use them in a builder's workshop. As to which are best, it's going to be a personal opinion. For example: Drdt2 vs cframe Pnuematic vs manual squeezed Then there all all the other tools that aren't in the kits that make your li fe easier in the build. It just depends on how frugal you are or are do have to have the best tools a vailable. ACS just resells Avery tools. You'll be happy with either the Avery or clea veland kits. With osh around the corner, there may be show specials from t he vendors. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 15, 2011, at 8:46 AM, Ben Boatright wrote: > All, > > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so . In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.). T here does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit. > > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax). > > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. > > Thanks, > Ben > > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or s uggestions for where I might look. > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Ben; Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit it can be done for far less than any kit out there. To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a discount for spending so much with them. I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you=99ll get great tools for a great price. If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a RV-10. Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me. Pascal From: Ben Boatright Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM Subject: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits All, I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit. One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax). I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. Thanks, Ben PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or suggestions for where I might look. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
Bob has summarized the high points. Another good kit is fromhttp://www.planetools.com/Tool%20Kit.htm With the majority of the riveting behind me, I would prefer to have both a pneumatic squeezer and a good hand squeezer that can share dies and yokes. There are places that the ability to slowly squeeze by hand is preferable to the rapid squeezing of the pnuematic, and the physical shape of the pneumatic makes access difficult. Also consider having both a 3/8s air drill and a 1/4" air drill. The smaller and lighter drill is nice for the more numerous rivet holes, while you need the capacity of the 3/8" for drilling things like engine mount holes in fire wall. For the 1/4" I have been very happy with http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=7300R Chicago Pneumatic, which has excellent trigger control, and is very light weight for those days when you are match drilling a big skin with hundreds of holes. Most of the good vendors will work with you to add/delete from their kits to account for what you already have, what extras you want. Avery, Cleaveland and Isham(Planetools) are top notch in service, etc. You will find that you will add tools over time. There are some drill bits that you only get 1, which you need throughout the project and 1 won't stay sharp enough. (#19 and #12 for example). There will be certain drill sizes that are only used a couple of times in the project, that a complete numbered drill set from Harbor Freight is adequate to deal with. If you want to minimize deburring and have nicer rivet holes, #41 and #30 chucking reamers will do much nicer job than drill bits. (contrary to the plans, #41 is a better fit for 3/32" rivets than #40). Figure you will wind up spending at least 30% more than what the kit costs, and if you are a tool junkie it could go to double the kit cost.. Have fun. On 6/15/2011 6:40 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > It's an exercise in futility..... All the major tool vendors have > good kits. > > I've got tools from several of the vendors based upon getting to use > them in a builder's workshop. > > As to which are best, it's going to be a personal opinion. > > For example: > > Drdt2 vs cframe > Pnuematic vs manual squeezed > > Then there all all the other tools that aren't in the kits that make > your life easier in the build. > > It just depends on how frugal you are or are do have to have the best > tools available. > > ACS just resells Avery tools. You'll be happy with either the Avery > or cleaveland kits. With osh around the corner, there may be show > specials from the vendors. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 15, 2011, at 8:46 AM, Ben Boatright > wrote: > >> All, >> >> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month >> or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've >> looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft >> Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with >> regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be >> the "better" kit. >> >> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce >> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay >> sales tax). >> >> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. >> >> Thanks, >> Ben >> >> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any >> available or suggestions for where I might look. >> * >> >> ================================== >> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ================================== >> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> ================================== >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ================================== >> >> * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement. I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle. Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action. On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote: > Ben; > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit > it can be done for far less than any kit out there. > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a > discount for spending so much with them. > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and youll get > great tools for a great price. > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a > RV-10. > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me. > Pascal > *From:* Ben Boatright > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > All, > > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be > the "better" kit. > > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales > tax). > > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. > > Thanks, > Ben > > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available > or suggestions for where I might look. > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Van's Tool Kits
Date: Jun 15, 2011
I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have bought a new one. I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck a single rivet until I had it replaced. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (ailerons) Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement. I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle. Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action. On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote: > Ben; > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit > it can be done for far less than any kit out there. > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a > discount for spending so much with them. > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get > great tools for a great price. > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a > RV-10. > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me. > Pascal > *From:* Ben Boatright > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > All, > > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be > the "better" kit. > > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales > tax). > > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. > > Thanks, > Ben > > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available > or suggestions for where I might look. > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser
Nice pics Bill S - that should help many. Regarding the laser - am I correct in thinking that you only used one axis of the laser for the wheel alignment? I chose to get a cheap, 1 axis, non-leveling laser (Sears) because I just couldn't understand what to do with all the functions. Turned out I did the hoist off the floor routine with the 1 axis and never wanted more for that job. However, I really like the laser now and will definitely be getting a self leveling 2 axis laser sometime after flying this thing. Wish I had it for my deck project. So I'm suggesting you can do the wheel alignment thing, hoisted or not hoisted, with the cheapest unit you can find. And using it will be a lot better than not having it. But a nicer unit has a lot of other uses on the plane and elsewhere if you are into it. Do you agree Bill S? Anyway, I really struggled with how to hoist the wing-less fuse and thought long and hard about how to avoid hoisting it. In the end, someone on the list described using pieces of lumber, vertically, under the spar stubs. With 1 small hydraulic jack, and some 1.5 x 1.5 oak sticks, along with a HF engine hoist, I got the whole thing up single-handed with surprising ease. So, another data point. Bill " moving the 'finished' plane to the airport Saturday for final assembly" Watson Durham NC On 6/14/2011 10:58 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote: > Ok, I also did the unthinkable easy thing and it was on an RV7a. I did NOT > hoist the airplane up to put the wheel fairings on. I used a laser that > gives both vertical and horizontal planes to align the wheel centerlines up > with the fairing and then with a line offset from the centerline of the fuse > at front and back. I think these pictures will tell the story. > > Did both in an afternoon along with the leg fairings. It was possible to > get them absolutely parallel with the fuse centerline. Granted in flight > they hang at a slightly different angle but the important thing is that they > be parallel with the centerline airflow. I have zero rudder trim in cruise > and the ball is centered. > > That is a Stanley Vert/Hor Laser and is self leveling. Lots of uses in > setting the emp because it allows you to square two surfaces like the vert > stab and the Hor stab as well as checking for level in Hor mode. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
Date: Jun 15, 2011
I suggest picking one and then adding as you need; most will easily get you through the tail kit. But to make your job easier, you will collect and even make some special tools over the entire build. Having built two aircraft, a Glastar and RV10, my tool boxes contain hand squeezes, C squeeze, A squeeze, rivet guns, drill, drill press, hydraulic press, etc. just know that over the life of the project you will either spend your time or your money. many jobs that can be done with simple tools take an inordinate amount of time compared to the right tool which works instantly with good results. You will even have duplicate tools of selected varieties carried in the baggage area when you fly, Since your aircraft may need fixing, an FBO may or may not elect to maintain it, since they have no continued airworthiness information for it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 7:25 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > > Bob has summarized the high points. Another good kit is > fromhttp://www.planetools.com/Tool%20Kit.htm > With the majority of the riveting behind me, I would prefer to have both a > pneumatic squeezer and a good hand squeezer that can share dies and yokes. > There are places that the ability to slowly squeeze by hand is preferable > to the rapid squeezing of the pnuematic, and the physical shape of the > pneumatic makes access difficult. > Also consider having both a 3/8s air drill and a 1/4" air drill. The > smaller and lighter drill is nice for the more numerous rivet holes, while > you need the capacity of the 3/8" for drilling things like engine mount > holes in fire wall. For the 1/4" I have been very happy with > http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=7300R Chicago Pneumatic, > which has excellent trigger control, and is very light weight for those > days when you are match drilling a big skin with hundreds of holes. > Most of the good vendors will work with you to add/delete from their kits > to account for what you already have, what extras you want. Avery, > Cleaveland and Isham(Planetools) are top notch in service, etc. You will > find that you will add tools over time. There are some drill bits that you > only get 1, which you need throughout the project and 1 won't stay sharp > enough. (#19 and #12 for example). There will be certain drill sizes that > are only used a couple of times in the project, that a complete numbered > drill set from Harbor Freight is adequate to deal with. > If you want to minimize deburring and have nicer rivet holes, #41 and #30 > chucking reamers will do much nicer job than drill bits. (contrary to the > plans, #41 is a better fit for 3/32" rivets than #40). > Figure you will wind up spending at least 30% more than what the kit > costs, and if you are a tool junkie it could go to double the kit cost.. > Have fun. > > > On 6/15/2011 6:40 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> It's an exercise in futility..... All the major tool vendors have good >> kits. >> >> I've got tools from several of the vendors based upon getting to use them >> in a builder's workshop. >> >> As to which are best, it's going to be a personal opinion. >> >> For example: >> >> Drdt2 vs cframe >> Pnuematic vs manual squeezed >> >> Then there all all the other tools that aren't in the kits that make your >> life easier in the build. >> >> It just depends on how frugal you are or are do have to have the best >> tools available. >> >> ACS just resells Avery tools. You'll be happy with either the Avery or >> cleaveland kits. With osh around the corner, there may be show specials >> from the vendors. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jun 15, 2011, at 8:46 AM, Ben Boatright > > wrote: >> >>> All, >>> >>> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or >>> so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked >>> at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, >>> Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with regards to the >>> kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit. >>> >>> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce >>> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales >>> tax). >>> >>> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Ben >>> >>> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available >>> or suggestions for where I might look. >>> * >>> >>> ================================== >>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> ================================== >>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >>> ================================== >>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> ================================== >>> >>> * >> * >> >> >> * > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ben Boatright <benboatright(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special? Ben J. Ben Boatright ----- benboatright(at)gmail.com ----- Member, AOPA and EAA On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips wrote: > > I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools > from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the > time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have > bought a new one. > > I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes > EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck > a single rivet until I had it replaced. > > Jack Phillips > #40610 Wings (ailerons) > Raleigh, NC > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > > > Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off > Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing > with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is > fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool > break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he > would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement. > I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any > others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle. > Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high > quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better > than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action. > > > On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote: > > Ben; > > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit > > it can be done for far less than any kit out there. > > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools > > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay > > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store > > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a > > discount for spending so much with them. > > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an > > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get > > great tools for a great price. > > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a > > RV-10. > > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the > > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me. > > Pascal > > *From:* Ben Boatright > > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM > > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > > All, > > > > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month > > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've > > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft > > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with > > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be > > the "better" kit. > > > > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce > > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales > > tax). > > > > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. > > > > Thanks, > > Ben > > > > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available > > or suggestions for where I might look. > > * > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"> > http://www.matronics.com > /Navigator?RV10-List > > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > * > > * > > > > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Van's Tool Kits
Date: Jun 15, 2011
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
For the identical dimensional size, the mass is significantly greater, leading to reflected energy back into the rivet. The rivet complies much faster in those hard to reach areas. Repetitive shock impacts can lead to rivet cracking - from "work hardening". When you can't get a squeeze into an area, a finger tungsten bar becomes magic. John From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Boatright Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 8:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special? Ben J. Ben Boatright ----- benboatright(at)gmail.com ----- Member, AOPA and EAA On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips wrote: I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have bought a new one. I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck a single rivet until I had it replaced. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (ailerons) Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement. I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle. Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action. On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote: > Ben; > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit > it can be done for far less than any kit out there. > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a > discount for spending so much with them. > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get > great tools for a great price. > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a > RV-10. > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me. > Pascal > *From:* Ben Boatright > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > All, > > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be > the "better" kit. > > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales > tax). > > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. > > Thanks, > Ben > > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available > or suggestions for where I might look. > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s .com /Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > * > > > * arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
Date: Jun 15, 2011
weight! I don=99t own one, but the weight of steel gets hard on the arms after a while, with Tungsten you don=99t need to exert much strength to hold the bar and hence makes for easier riveting. From: Ben Boatright Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 8:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special? Ben J. Ben Boatright ----- benboatright(at)gmail.com ----- Member, AOPA and EAA On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips wrote: I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have bought a new one. I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck a single rivet until I had it replaced. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (ailerons) Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement. I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle. Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action. On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote: > Ben; > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit > it can be done for far less than any kit out there. > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a > discount for spending so much with them. > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get > great tools for a great price. > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a > RV-10. > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me. > Pascal > *From:* Ben Boatright > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > All, > > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be > the "better" kit. > > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales > tax). > > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. > > Thanks, > Ben > > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available > or suggestions for where I might look. > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com /Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > * > > > * ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
Density.... specific gravity (?). Whatever, Tungsten is much heavier per cubic inch than steel. A small bar is as effective as a larger one so it fits in small spaces, bucks easier etc. Having said that, I didn't get one until 1/2 thru my project. It's great. However, in easy to access areas, a lighter but bigger steel bar can be nice. Less hand strain, easier to hold, etc. The real 'danger' with any bar but especially the tungsten is when you drop it and it hits the skin. Nasty. That's when a more easily gripped bar can be nice. Hope you have access to someone who can show you the basics of riveting... not brain science but lot's of little tricks and just helps to get some dual time. Bill On 6/15/2011 11:28 AM, Ben Boatright wrote: > Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am > curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the > tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special? > > Ben > > J. Ben Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jun 15, 2011
It is more dense, which makes riveting easier. Most are also smaller in siz e. With the exception of a handful of rivets, I used my tungsten bar for ev erything. It's more expensive, but well worth it. You are starting to see the rat hole tool buying can become...... Next will be: Adjustable die holder and quick disconnects for you pneumatic squeezed Quick bit changer replacing the chuck on your drill Drdt2 Light weight air hoses Pneumatic cleco gun Digital torque wrench The list goes on....... It's an ailment that affects many an rv'er. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 15, 2011, at 11:28 AM, Ben Boatright wrote: > Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curiou s (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking b ar. What makes it so special? > > Ben > > J. Ben Boatright > ----- > benboatright(at)gmail.com > ----- > Member, AOPA and EAA > > > > On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips w rote: > > I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools > from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by th e > time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have > bought a new one. > > I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes > EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buc k > a single rivet until I had it replaced. > > Jack Phillips > #40610 Wings (ailerons) > Raleigh, NC > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > > > Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off > Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing > with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is > fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool > break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he > would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement. > I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any > others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle. > Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high > quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better > than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action. > > > On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote: > > Ben; > > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit > > it can be done for far less than any kit out there. > > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools > > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay > > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store > > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a > > discount for spending so much with them. > > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an > > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get > > great tools for a great price. > > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a > > RV-10. > > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the > > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me. > > Pascal > > *From:* Ben Boatright > > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM > > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > > All, > > > > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month > > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've > > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft > > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with > > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be > > the "better" kit. > > > > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce > > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales > > tax). > > > > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. > > > > Thanks, > > Ben > > > > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available > > or suggestions for where I might look. > > * > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com > /Navigator?RV10-List > > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ c > > * > > * > > > > > > * > > > > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Van's Tool Kits
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Density and hardness. Tungsten's density is 19.25 g/cm3 (Lead is 11.34 gm/cm3, and steel is 7.86 gm/cm3). More mass means greater ability to upset the rivet head with fewer blows from the rivet gun. With a 4X gun and my tungsten bar on a 3/32" rivet, I find it takes about 3 "taps" to fully set the rivet. Jack Phillips _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Boatright Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 11:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special? Ben J. Ben Boatright ----- benboatright(at)gmail.com ----- Member, AOPA and EAA On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips wrote: I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have bought a new one. I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck a single rivet until I had it replaced. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (ailerons) Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement. I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle. Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action. On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote: > Ben; > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit > it can be done for far less than any kit out there. > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a > discount for spending so much with them. > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get > great tools for a great price. > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a > RV-10. > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me. > Pascal > *From:* Ben Boatright > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits > All, > > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be > the "better" kit. > > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales > tax). > > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide. > > Thanks, > Ben > > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available > or suggestions for where I might look. > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > * > > > * ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Hoist=2C use a lot of little people or rent some Egyptians the kind that bu ilt the pyramids. =0A RV10-List Wheel Fairing Plane Leveling with Laser=0A http://cid-cf8c9ba70acf9731.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=browse&resi d=CF8C9BA70ACF9731!167&type=5&Bpub=SDX.Photos&Bsrc=Photomail&authke y=84tm4QUAXOQ%24=0A > Date: Wed=2C 15 Jun 2011 11:05:33 -0400 > From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser > > > Nice pics Bill S - that should help many. > > Regarding the laser - am I correct in thinking that you only used one > axis of the laser for the wheel alignment? > > I chose to get a cheap=2C 1 axis=2C non-leveling laser (Sears) because I > just couldn't understand what to do with all the functions. Turned out > I did the hoist off the floor routine with the 1 axis and never wanted > more for that job. > > However=2C I really like the laser now and will definitely be getting a > self leveling 2 axis laser sometime after flying this thing. Wish I had > it for my deck project. So I'm suggesting you can do the wheel > alignment thing=2C hoisted or not hoisted=2C with the cheapest unit you c an > find. And using it will be a lot better than not having it. But a > nicer unit has a lot of other uses on the plane and elsewhere if you are > into it. Do you agree Bill S? > > Anyway=2C I really struggled with how to hoist the wing-less fuse and > thought long and hard about how to avoid hoisting it. In the end=2C > someone on the list described using pieces of lumber=2C vertically=2C und er > the spar stubs. With 1 small hydraulic jack=2C and some 1.5 x 1.5 oak > sticks=2C along with a HF engine hoist=2C I got the whole thing up > single-handed with surprising ease. So=2C another data point. > > Bill " moving the 'finished' plane to the airport Saturday for final > assembly" Watson > Durham NC > > On 6/14/2011 10:58 PM=2C Bill Schlatterer wrote: > > Ok=2C I also did the unthinkable easy thing and it was on an RV7a. I di d NOT > > hoist the airplane up to put the wheel fairings on. I used a laser that > > gives both vertical and horizontal planes to align the wheel centerline s up > > with the fairing and then with a line offset from the centerline of the fuse > > at front and back. I think these pictures will tell the story. > > > > Did both in an afternoon along with the leg fairings. It was possible t o > > get them absolutely parallel with the fuse centerline. Granted in fligh t > > they hang at a slightly different angle but the important thing is that they > > be parallel with the centerline airflow. I have zero rudder trim in cru ise > > and the ball is centered. > > > > That is a Stanley Vert/Hor Laser and is self leveling. Lots of uses in > > setting the emp because it allows you to square two surfaces like the v ert > > stab and the Hor stab as well as checking for level in Hor mode. > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
I'm still working on my tail kit. I bought a bunch of tools used off of vansairforce.com -- this was remarkably useful for getting random pieces of metal, unusual tools, and bucking bars dirt cheap. Many of the tools I had no idea what to use for until I hit a problem and noticed "hey, I have something in my box which works great for this!" My three favourite "non-standard" tools: - Cleveland Main Squeeze. Vastly superior to any other hand squeezer I've used -- it requires much less strength to set rivets, and I'm a wimp. This also reduces the number of errors you'll have due to manhandling rivets. (Personally, I tried both this and a pneumatic squeezer, and chose to spend my limited budget on this tool first. If you have the money, buy both.) - Tungsten bucking bar. See what everyone else said. - An MDF box to put the compressor in. That darn thing is _loud_. Building a box to put it in was a fun project, and also made working in my shop much more pleasant. The tool which confuses me most: a "dimpling hammer". I've never figured out how this is any better than a standard $2 rubber mallet. So that's what I use. Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
Date: Jun 15, 2011
I'm not an expert on this subject but...when splitting one nav antenna to a 430w and a SL30, my avionics shop said the triplexer would not work very well. As I understand it, the standard duplex and triplex splitters are a narrow band splitters, which will work well for just the 430W but the SL30 needs the broadband for its internal splitter. Garmin makes a special broadband splitter just for the SL30 and now the new touch panel units also require it because they also have an internal splitter (instead of the separate nav and G/S antenna inputs). >From the broadband duplex splitter with one leg to the SL30, I will be using the standard duplex splitter to feed the 430W nav and G/S inputs. -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343106#343106 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Subject: Re: Van's Tool Kits
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Time to revisit the compressor issue. Absolutely avoid an "oil-less" compressor. If you are building an RV-10 you can afford an oil bath compressor, that uses a separate belt driven motor. Get at least a 25 gal-30 gal tank. There is a good Husky model at Home Despot for under $400, or equivalent Kobalt model at Lowes. They are at least 10-15 db quieter than the oil-less variety. If you still need quieter, you can enclose the compressor intake and exhaust, where most of the noise is located, or the whole motor/compressor combination, but plan for some cooling air as that compressor will get hot. On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Chris Colohan wrote: > > - An MDF box to put the compressor in. That darn thing is _loud_. > Building a box to put it in was a fun project, and also made working in my > shop much more pleasant. > > > Chris > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2011
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
Nick, you have part numbers? I am unable to locate the broadband splitter you mention on Garmin's site. Maybe the Garmin 013-00112-00 (http://www.avionicsmall.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8183)? If that is the one, then I assume from one output of that you are using a standard diplexer such as CI-507 (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/coupler507.php) to feed the 430 and the other output direct to the SL-30? Now I am curious as to David's mention above. David, what part # are you using? -Sean #40303 On 6/15/11 6:06 PM, Nick Leonard wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Nick Leonard" > > I'm not an expert on this subject but...when splitting one nav antenna to a 430w and a SL30, my avionics shop said the triplexer would not work very well. > > As I understand it, the standard duplex and triplex splitters are a narrow band splitters, which will work well for just the 430W but the SL30 needs the broadband for its internal splitter. Garmin makes a special broadband splitter just for the SL30 and now the new touch panel units also require it because they also have an internal splitter (instead of the separate nav and G/S antenna inputs). > > > From the broadband duplex splitter with one leg to the SL30, I will be using the standard duplex splitter to feed the 430W nav and G/S inputs. > > -------- > Nick Leonard > RV-10 (40015) Finish > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343106#343106 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Yup, only used the vertical on the wheel pants but found lots of uses for the horizontal as well. While it is obviously a RV builder required tool I am told you can do stuff like hang pictures, build decks, storage buildings, etc.... Go figure :-) It is a http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-77-153-FatMax-Cross-Laser/dp/B0007SXI54/ref=pd _bxgy_hi_text_b Just Google self leveling laser and you will get a lot of hits. Probably a lot better for a lot cheaper today! Bill S -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:06 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser Nice pics Bill S - that should help many. Regarding the laser - am I correct in thinking that you only used one axis of the laser for the wheel alignment? I chose to get a cheap, 1 axis, non-leveling laser (Sears) because I just couldn't understand what to do with all the functions. Turned out I did the hoist off the floor routine with the 1 axis and never wanted more for that job. However, I really like the laser now and will definitely be getting a self leveling 2 axis laser sometime after flying this thing. Wish I had it for my deck project. So I'm suggesting you can do the wheel alignment thing, hoisted or not hoisted, with the cheapest unit you can find. And using it will be a lot better than not having it. But a nicer unit has a lot of other uses on the plane and elsewhere if you are into it. Do you agree Bill S? Anyway, I really struggled with how to hoist the wing-less fuse and thought long and hard about how to avoid hoisting it. In the end, someone on the list described using pieces of lumber, vertically, under the spar stubs. With 1 small hydraulic jack, and some 1.5 x 1.5 oak sticks, along with a HF engine hoist, I got the whole thing up single-handed with surprising ease. So, another data point. Bill " moving the 'finished' plane to the airport Saturday for final assembly" Watson Durham NC On 6/14/2011 10:58 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote: > Ok, I also did the unthinkable easy thing and it was on an RV7a. I > did NOT hoist the airplane up to put the wheel fairings on. I used a > laser that gives both vertical and horizontal planes to align the > wheel centerlines up with the fairing and then with a line offset from > the centerline of the fuse at front and back. I think these pictures will tell the story. > > Did both in an afternoon along with the leg fairings. It was possible > to get them absolutely parallel with the fuse centerline. Granted in > flight they hang at a slightly different angle but the important thing > is that they be parallel with the centerline airflow. I have zero > rudder trim in cruise and the ball is centered. > > That is a Stanley Vert/Hor Laser and is self leveling. Lots of uses > in setting the emp because it allows you to square two surfaces like > the vert stab and the Hor stab as well as checking for level in Hor mode. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Sean, I don't have the info on the part I have installed, here at home. The original triplexer(?) I had installed never worked very well. Sarasota Avionics did some work for me a couple of years ago and installed the unit I have now. I will get the info in the next day or two and post it on this forum. David Maib 40559 Flying On Jun 15, 2011, at 7:46 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > > Nick, you have part numbers? I am unable to locate the broadband > splitter you mention on Garmin's site. Maybe the Garmin > 013-00112-00 (http://www.avionicsmall.com/index.php? > main_page=product_info&products_id=8183)? > > If that is the one, then I assume from one output of that you are > using a standard diplexer such as CI-507 (http:// > www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/coupler507.php) to feed the > 430 and the other output direct to the SL-30? > > Now I am curious as to David's mention above. David, what part # > are you using? > > -Sean #40303 > > On 6/15/11 6:06 PM, Nick Leonard wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Nick Leonard" >> >> I'm not an expert on this subject but...when splitting one nav >> antenna to a 430w and a SL30, my avionics shop said the triplexer >> would not work very well. >> >> As I understand it, the standard duplex and triplex splitters are >> a narrow band splitters, which will work well for just the 430W >> but the SL30 needs the broadband for its internal splitter. >> Garmin makes a special broadband splitter just for the SL30 and >> now the new touch panel units also require it because they also >> have an internal splitter (instead of the separate nav and G/S >> antenna inputs). >> >> > From the broadband duplex splitter with one leg to the SL30, I >> will be using the standard duplex splitter to feed the 430W nav >> and G/S inputs. >> >> -------- >> Nick Leonard >> RV-10 (40015) Finish >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343106#343106 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 15, 2011
Well if Tim comes up with the part # while flying around the SFRA, I'll truly be impressed. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343140#343140 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Quick Build fuselage and what I learned, so far!
From: "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com>
Date: Jun 16, 2011
Well, Ive worked through most of the fuselage quick build issues. Although the quick builders did a ton of work and in general, the work is great, there were a few minor issues that needed attention. 1. I finally decided to remove the landing gear fittings, allowing inspection of the forward floor area. What I found was mixed. First, there was nothing under the forward floor except the remains of the temporary rivets and few metal shavings. Nothing that was worth the trouble of removing the landing gear fittings! It did satisfy my curiosity and allowed me to spray some self etching primer in that area. (BTW, It is not possible to totally remove the floor panels since the side panels are installed and get in the way. I could lift the rear edge enough to conduct a thorough inspection and prime.) I decided not to add insulation under the forward floorboards due to concerns of possible moisture accumulation and future corrosion issues. As most of you have stated, removing the landing gear fittings is a major pain! Many of the bolts required pry bars, some bolts were bent and all were damaged to the point that I replaced all the hardware. I found the mounting holes were never drilled properly, (as described in the instructions). After re-working the mounting holes the mounting bolts can be installed with only minor force. 2. The F-1005-R/L brackets were fastened to the F-1005C-R/L bulkheads incorrectly with AN470 rivets rather the AN426 rivets. I removed these rivets, countersink the holes and install the correct rivets. The rivets on the forward door opening were also incorrect and required replacement. 3. The F-6122-1 Tri-Gear Brake Bracket was installed incorrectly with the flange facing the outside, rather the inside of the fuselage. I needed to remove the bracket to install the parking brake mounting bracket, anyway, so that wasnt a big deal. 4. The F-1051J Scat tube support was installed at the wrong location. Rather than being located 12 21/32 in. from the reference line, it was installed 16 in. from the reference line. This moves the Scat tube support too far forward and does not provide the intended support. I moved the bracket back to the correct location and put short bolts and nuts in the holes to fill them. 5. Page 27-4 (fig 2) calls for the vent DL-10 (2.4deg) to be installed on both sides. These were installed with the incorrect orientation causing the heat duct to be jammed together, at some weird angles. As it turns out, it was better to have these out of the way (per plans) for installation of the brake lines. 6. Many bushings were not installed and not included in the parts shipped with the kit. There were none of the following bushings installed. (SB 625-8, SB 437-4, SB 625-7, SB 750-10) (Apparently, they were not included in the parts bags because it was assumed they were installed during the quick build.) Vans is sending me a package with the missing bushings. So now, a week later, Im through the pain of inspecting all the quick build work and on to better things. In hindsight, Im glad I removed the landing gear fittings, if only to make sure the mounting bolts are not damaged. I know theyre drilled correctly, torqued correctly and not damaged. At least not until my first landing! Everyone has to do what works for them. This is what I learned, along the way. Happy building! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343163#343163 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1357_192.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1356_198.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1354_191.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1351_569.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
That's right, F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors!! Bill "ready to put the wings on and fly once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors closed" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
From: efdsteve(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 16, 2011
I feel your pain, man! Steve Weinstock 40230, finishing kit -----Original Message----- From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Thu, Jun 16, 2011 5:35 pm Subject: RV10-List: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors That's right, F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors!! Bill "ready to put the wings on and fly once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ oors closed" Watson -======================== -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2011
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Right there with ya. More time spent on doors than most of plane to that point. Doesn't help that doors "to plans" are clearly unacceptable re latching. Then there is the question of whether to accept the cheezy weather stripping or do the work for the McMaster Carr solution. Not to mention how many times you want to vacuum sanding dust from inside and outside the project. On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 3:28 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > > That's right, F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors!! > > Bill "ready to put the wings on and fly once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ > doors closed" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
Date: Jun 16, 2011
Kelly The doors build character. Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone On 2011-06-16, at 10:21 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > Right there with ya. More time spent on doors than most of plane to that p oint. Doesn't help that doors "to plans" are clearly unacceptable re latchin g. Then there is the question of whether to accept the cheezy weather stripp ing or do the work for the McMaster Carr solution. Not to mention how many t imes you want to vacuum sanding dust from inside and outside the project. > > On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 3:28 PM, Bill Watson wrote : > > That's right, F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors!! > > Bill "ready to put the wings on and fly once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doo rs closed" Watson > > > ========================= > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========================= > http://forums.matronics.com > ========================= > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========================= > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
Date: Jun 16, 2011
Then there is the question of whether to accept the cheezy weather stripping or do the work for the McMaster Carr solution Question? Are you kidding? If there was one thing I would never do again it=99s use the cheezy Vans stripping. Can=99t say that for all that many items, but there is no question about it, cheezy is out!! Took me about 3 months to get the doors right, lots of reshaping was involved, all after using the rubber sealing. Don=99t do it man!! Pascal =9Cready to put the wings on and fly once I finish everything else=9D Reid From: Kelly McMullen Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 7:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors Right there with ya. More time spent on doors than most of plane to that point. Doesn't help that doors "to plans" are clearly unacceptable re latching. Then there is the question of whether to accept the cheezy weather stripping or do the work for the McMaster Carr solution. Not to mention how many times you want to vacuum sanding dust from inside and outside the project. On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 3:28 PM, Bill Watson wrote: That's right, F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors!! Bill "ready to put the wings on and fly once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors closed" Watson arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
Date: Jun 16, 2011
Character...Next week I will be leaving my plane with the painter and he wi ll be trying to convince me to allow him to open up the tight fit I made by spending those month making the door fit PERFECTLY. The fit is so good tha t all the pro painters are worried the primer and paint will chip because t here is no room for it. I argue that they should mask a 1/8" line where the door and cabin top meet and leave it unpainted. I build it to the standards of a sailplane=2C minimal drag...to hell if I w ill let them ruin my work. The return on the inside fits equally well. From: kearney(at)shaw.ca Subject: Re: RV10-List: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors Date: Thu=2C 16 Jun 2011 23:29:24 -0400 Kelly The doors build character. Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone On 2011-06-16=2C at 10:21 PM=2C Kelly McMullen wrote: Right there with ya. More time spent on doors than most of plane to that po int. Doesn't help that doors "to plans" are clearly unacceptable re latchin g. Then there is the question of whether to accept the cheezy weather strip ping or do the work for the McMaster Carr solution. Not to mention how many times you want to vacuum sanding dust from inside and outside the project. On Thu=2C Jun 16=2C 2011 at 3:28 PM=2C Bill Watson wrote: That's right=2C F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors!! Bill "ready to put the wings on and fly once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ door s closed" Watson arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com le=2C List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
It does give you great appreciation for the fine work of Schleicher, Schempp-Hirth, and especially Rolladen-Schneider. I definitely did not strive for sailplane standards but it looks good.... once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors closed again after applying some aesthetically pleasing interior trim to the bloody thing. Bill "girded up in long pants and long sleeves for another session with the itching powder" Watson On 6/17/2011 12:40 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > Character...Next week I will be leaving my plane with the painter and > he will be trying to convince me to allow him to open up the tight fit > I made by spending those month making the door fit PERFECTLY. The fit > is so good that all the pro painters are worried the primer and paint > will chip because there is no room for it. > > I argue that they should mask a 1/8" line where the door and cabin top > meet and leave it unpainted. > > I build it to the standards of a sailplane, minimal drag...to hell if > I will let them ruin my work. The return on the inside fits equally well. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Bill, I would be interested in seeing photos of your door trim. Are they on your k itlog site? I'm in the process of determining how to finish my sorts. Thanks Bob Sent from my iPhone On Jun 17, 2011, at 7:29 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > It does give you great appreciation for the fine work of Schleicher, Schem pp-Hirth, and especially Rolladen-Schneider. > > I definitely did not strive for sailplane standards but it looks good.... once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors closed again after applying some aesth etically pleasing interior trim to the bloody thing. > > Bill "girded up in long pants and long sleeves for another session with th e itching powder" Watson > > > On 6/17/2011 12:40 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: >> >> Character...Next week I will be leaving my plane with the painter and he w ill be trying to convince me to allow him to open up the tight fit I made by spending those month making the door fit PERFECTLY. The fit is so good that all the pro painters are worried the primer and paint will chip because the re is no room for it. >> >> I argue that they should mask a 1/8" line where the door and cabin top me et and leave it unpainted. >> >> I build it to the standards of a sailplane, minimal drag...to hell if I w ill let them ruin my work. The return on the inside fits equally well. >> >> > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
I don't think I have a lot out there, but probably have quite a few pics. I'm willing to share but it may be tough until next week. In particular, if you have a green top, I think I can share quite a bit. The final result is looking good but every aspect has been done several times over. I'll try to get something together or give me a call anytime. Bill "shop cleaned, FG tools out, ready to rumble one more time" Watson 919-824-4179 On 6/17/2011 7:56 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > Bill, > > I would be interested in seeing photos of your door trim. Are they on > your kitlog site? I'm in the process of determining how to finish my > sorts. > > Thanks > > Bob > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 17, 2011, at 7:29 AM, Bill Watson > wrote: > >> It does give you great appreciation for the fine work of Schleicher, >> Schempp-Hirth, and especially Rolladen-Schneider. >> >> I definitely did not strive for sailplane standards but it looks >> good.... once I get the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ doors closed again after >> applying some aesthetically pleasing interior trim to the bloody thing. >> >> Bill "girded up in long pants and long sleeves for another session >> with the itching powder" Watson >> >> >> On 6/17/2011 12:40 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: >>> Character...Next week I will be leaving my plane with the painter >>> and he will be trying to convince me to allow him to open up the >>> tight fit I made by spending those month making the door fit >>> PERFECTLY. The fit is so good that all the pro painters are worried >>> the primer and paint will chip because there is no room for it. >>> >>> I argue that they should mask a 1/8" line where the door and cabin >>> top meet and leave it unpainted. >>> >>> I build it to the standards of a sailplane, minimal drag...to hell >>> if I will let them ruin my work. The return on the inside fits >>> equally well. >>> >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> >> >> * >> >> >> * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Travel insurance
Date: Jun 17, 2011
As stated=2C next Friday the plane leaves for the paint shop. It is a 218 mile trip up the 101 freeway at say 55mph. Special precautions where taken with the plexiglass=2C I covered them in 5m il clear vinyl and taped it with plumber's tape to the plexiglass every fou r inches in strips=2C quite an artistic look. Question=2C do I call my auto insurance about coverage or do I call an airc raft insurer??? The fuselage will be towed on a flat bed trailer behing my F250 diesel=2C t he wings and other structures will be in a Penski moving Van and I applied for content insurance. JOhn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
On 06/16/2011 11:29 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > The doors build character. > ...and here I thought we were talking about a bunch of characters building doors... *wink* -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Travel insurance
Date: Jun 17, 2011
I believe this is best covered under a "Builder's Insurance" policy. Nation Air is the company I use. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 10:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Travel insurance As stated, next Friday the plane leaves for the paint shop. It is a 218 mile trip up the 101 freeway at say 55mph. Special precautions where taken with the plexiglass, I covered them in 5mil clear vinyl and taped it with plumber's tape to the plexiglass every four inches in strips, quite an artistic look. Question, do I call my auto insurance about coverage or do I call an aircraft insurer??? The fuselage will be towed on a flat bed trailer behing my F250 diesel, the wings and other structures will be in a Penski moving Van and I applied for content insurance. JOhn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
Date: Jun 17, 2011
From: "George, Neal Capt 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Bill - Since you live in the middle of NASCAR country, you could just forego the doors and install webbing exit nets... neal -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 7:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors I don't think I have a lot out there, but probably have quite a few pics. I'm willing to share but it may be tough until next week. In particular, if you have a green top, I think I can share quite a bit. The final result is looking good but every aspect has been done several times over. I'll try to get something together or give me a call anytime. Bill "shop cleaned, FG tools out, ready to rumble one more time" Watson 919-824-4179 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Subject: Re: Travel insurance
Years ago we repaired a plane that was hit while on a trailer. I think we dealt with an aircraft insurer, not car insurance. I agree, builder insurance is the way to go. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Fri, Jun 17, 2011 at 7:20 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > As stated, next Friday the plane leaves for the paint shop. > It is a 218 mile trip up the 101 freeway at say 55mph. > Special precautions where taken with the plexiglass, I covered them in 5mil > clear vinyl and taped it with plumber's tape to the plexiglass every four > inches in strips,quite an artistic look. > Question, do I call my auto insurance about coverage or do I call an > aircraft insurer??? > The fuselage will be towed on a flat bed trailer behing my F250 diesel, the > wings and other structures will be in a Penski moving Van and I applied for > content insurance. > JOhn > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
From: "Space Cadet" <Dwight(at)Drefs.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Is it just the flimsiness of the gray Vans seal that people object to? That's what bothered me, so I went with a AS-acquired seal that was the same dimensions as Vans, but was more of a foam-rubber-like material, in black. Think it was called luggage door seal. Very solid and keeps its shape well. Takes more effort to close, but not unreasonable. Seems like it will hold up well too. It kept the modifications to the door and frame to a minimum. Course, I'm not flying yet, so YMMV. Dwight Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343292#343292 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Dwight, Do you have a link to AS item number? On Fri, Jun 17, 2011 at 7:53 AM, Space Cadet wrote: > > Is it just the flimsiness of the gray Vans seal that people object to? > That's what bothered me, so I went with a AS-acquired seal that was the > same dimensions as Vans, but was more of a foam-rubber-like material, in > black. Think it was called luggage door seal. Very solid and keeps its > shape well. Takes more effort to close, but not unreasonable. Seems like > it will hold up well too. It kept the modifications to the door and frame > to a minimum. > > Course, I'm not flying yet, so YMMV. > > Dwight > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343292#343292 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Subject: ADHARS Location
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Vans sells a kit shelf for ADHARS. It clearly is intended by Vans to be placed alongside the elevator bellcrank behind the battery. I know some (Dynon) ADHARS have incorporated the magnetometer in the same unit, so need a magnetically benign location. Given the steel bolts, etc in the bellcrank, probably not so good a place. IIRC some have built a shelf near the top of fuselage one bulkhead behind the rear of the baggage compartment. I don't remember who's website I saw this on, but would like to copy it. Can someone give me a link to such a fabrication? Kelly 40866 Not sure from day to day what stage I am at...somewhere between fuselage and FWF. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
From: "rwwende" <rwendell@hydro-splash.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
After longer than I want to admit, I am at the final stages of fitting the doors! Just painted the interior last night. I finally got a satisfactory fit by using clear packing tape on the Jams, hair spray as a release agent, then used flox with the west systems and filled the jams with the doors closed. This allows the resin to stick to the door edge and not the jams. Then meticulously hand and until you get the gap you want. No doubt the doors SUCK! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343295#343295 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: ADHARS Location
Date: Jun 17, 2011
This is what I did. The bottom of the shelf is made from =BC=94 fiberglass fiber core board (out of the scrap bin of a Lancair builder). The hardest part was getting the dimensions of the sides just right so that the shelf was level with the plane axis. Note the copper wire used for the hinge pins instead of steel pins and the ADHARS mounting hardware is non-magnetic stainless steel. The shelf is very ridged. The hinge material makes for easy shelf removal/install. Carl Prepping the fuselage for paint. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 11:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: ADHARS Location Vans sells a kit shelf for ADHARS. It clearly is intended by Vans to be placed alongside the elevator bellcrank behind the battery. I know some (Dynon) ADHARS have incorporated the magnetometer in the same unit, so need a magnetically benign location. Given the steel bolts, etc in the bellcrank, probably not so good a place. IIRC some have built a shelf near the top of fuselage one bulkhead behind the rear of the baggage compartment. I don't remember who's website I saw this on, but would like to copy it. Can someone give me a link to such a fabrication? Kelly 40866 Not sure from day to day what stage I am at...somewhere between fuselage and FWF. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Marcus Cooper <coop85(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Travel insurance
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Others have mentioned builder's insurance which I agree, however I got some unsettling news when I asked the question to my insurer Falcon insurance. Turns out they only cover a short drive from the house to the airport. I am quite sure I asked the question before moving it from Fl to MS and then to VA and felt it was covered, turns out it was not! Good thing nothing happened, but I highly recommend not just builders insurance but verifying they will cover the transit you have planned. Marcus On Jun 17, 2011, at 10:20 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > As stated, next Friday the plane leaves for the paint shop. > > It is a 218 mile trip up the 101 freeway at say 55mph. > > Special precautions where taken with the plexiglass, I covered them in 5mil clear vinyl and taped it with plumber's tape to the plexiglass every four inches in strips, quite an artistic look. > > Question, do I call my auto insurance about coverage or do I call an aircraft insurer??? > > The fuselage will be towed on a flat bed trailer behing my F250 diesel, the wings and other structures will be in a Penski moving Van and I applied for content insurance. > > JOhn > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Travel insurance
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
I priced non-flying a/c insurance when I was building my plane and I felt that it was too high. As a former insurance agent. I feel that a lot of insurance in the non-mass-market product lines is overpriced due to a lack of good actuarial data. Similar products are sailboats on round-the-world voyages, special event insurance, and earthquake insurance in small markets. It is my feeling that the companies just price the product off the top of their heads with no real feel for the risk. I went naked on insurance till I got my N-number. You can minimize a lot of risks with a few extra safety precautions: Have several fire extinguishers around you build site or hanger. Use lots of people to help you move the plane and explain what you are doing before you do it making sure that everyone understand what is going to happen. Finally move the plane during low traffic times (I did mine early Sat. morning). For a long haul 5-7AM in the Summer is a good low traffic time, or 7-9 in the evening. You cannot eliminate risk, but you can do a lot to minimize it. -------- See you OSH '11 Q/B - flying 1 yr+ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343299#343299 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Tim ......Do you have a pic of where you whiskers are mounted? -------- See you OSH '11 Q/B - flying 1 yr+ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343300#343300 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Travel insurance
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
I'd put the wings on it, fly it for awhile, fix all the squaks, and then fly it to the painters!! Then if you have something you want to change or add (like more cowl exit lo uvers to cool the engine) you won't mess up your pretty paint job! Just something to think about.... Sent from my iPhone On Jun 17, 2011, at 10:20 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > As stated, next Friday the plane leaves for the paint shop. > > It is a 218 mile trip up the 101 freeway at say 55mph. > > Special precautions where taken with the plexiglass, I covered them in 5mi l clear vinyl and taped it with plumber's tape to the plexiglass every four i nches in strips, quite an artistic look. > > Question, do I call my auto insurance about coverage or do I call an aircr aft insurer??? > > The fuselage will be towed on a flat bed trailer behing my F250 diesel, th e wings and other structures will be in a Penski moving Van and I applied fo r content insurance. > > JOhn > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Taken 1 minute ago in coldwater Michigan where I was skyway robbed for 6.10/ FG. (FG = friggin gallon). Highest price I ever paid. Average for the trip is in the low 5's with a few under 5. On Jun 17, 2011, at 12:11 PM, "AirMike" wrote: > > Tim ......Do you have a pic of where you whiskers are mounted? > > -------- > See you OSH '11 > Q/B - flying 1 yr+ > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343300#343300 > > > > > > > > >

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Waiting on my sandwhich so took another photo. Nice day in the shade. Tim On Jun 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > Taken 1 minute ago in coldwater Michigan where I was skyway robbed for 6.1 0/FG. (FG = friggin gallon). Highest price I ever paid. > Average for the trip is in the low 5's with a few under 5. > > > > > > > On Jun 17, 2011, at 12:11 PM, "AirMike" wrote: > >> >> Tim ......Do you have a pic of where you whiskers are mounted? >> >> -------- >> See you OSH '11 >> Q/B - flying 1 yr+ >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343300#343300 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >

      
      > 
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
      D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
      D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      onics.com
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
      D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      ww.matronics.com/contribution
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
      D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      > 
      > 

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quick Build fuselage and what I learned, so far!
From: "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Bill, I couldn't agree more. I found the exact same issues on my build and have addressed each of them the same as you did (although I did overlook the scat tube support measurements). There were a few other issues to keep a close eye on and the entire process confirmed the need to trust but double check everything. Thanks for the post. I think it'll help others who are confused about how to go about the QB dis....I mean....assembly ; -David -------- David Halmos RV-10 builder #41059 Empennage complete! QB fuselage under construction Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343324#343324 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ADHARS Location
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Stella" <Sstella(at)incisaledge.com>
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Tim, Is there a specific model # for belly mount or is it the same as the VS mount? Steven Stella RV 10 Fuselage #40654 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 12:59 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Sold on whiskers Taken 1 minute ago in coldwater Michigan where I was skyway robbed for 6.10/FG. (FG = friggin gallon). Highest price I ever paid. Average for the trip is in the low 5's with a few under 5. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
I've been building up my door/jam fittings with leftover epoxy/superfil/glaze from the buildup of the windshield fillet. I use two mating layers of peel ply to keep from sticking and leave a gap for paint etc. I just goop up a section at a time and close the door to let them mate to each other. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343331#343331 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: Expression Of Frustration
The only bad thing about expressing your frustration in the subject line (e.g. F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@) is that you run the risk of the message being filtered out as spam. My Thunderbird program filter places it in my junk folder which I scan from time to time but could easily miss a RV-10 message. Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA Wings ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Subject: Re: ADHARS Location
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Thank you. That is very helpful for ideas. On Fri, Jun 17, 2011 at 8:50 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > This is what I did. The bottom of the shelf is made from =BC=94 fibergla ss > fiber core board (out of the scrap bin of a Lancair builder). The hardes t > part was getting the dimensions of the sides just right so that the shelf > was level with the plane axis. Note the copper wire used for the hinge p ins > instead of steel pins and the ADHARS mounting hardware is non-magnetic > stainless steel. The shelf is very ridged. The hinge material makes for > easy shelf removal/install.**** > > ** ** > > Carl**** > > Prepping the fuselage for paint.**** > > ** ** > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly McMullen > *Sent:* Friday, June 17, 2011 11:18 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: ADHARS Location**** > > ** ** > > Vans sells a kit shelf for ADHARS. It clearly is intended by Vans to be > placed alongside the elevator bellcrank behind the battery. I know some > (Dynon) ADHARS have incorporated the magnetometer in the same unit, so ne ed > a magnetically benign location. Given the steel bolts, etc in the bellcra nk, > probably not so good a place. > IIRC some have built a shelf near the top of fuselage one bulkhead behin d > the rear of the baggage compartment. I don't remember who's website I saw > this on, but would like to copy it. Can someone give me a link to such a > fabrication? > Kelly > 40866 > Not sure from day to day what stage I am at...somewhere between fuselage > and FWF.**** > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > ** > > * * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
That's definitely the way to get the gap right. I think I did that 2 years ago....but I'm still tweaking other aspect of the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors. I hope YMMV. Bill "finished the grind and remounting the doors for the nth time" Watson On 6/17/2011 11:37 AM, rwwende wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "rwwende"<rwendell@hydro-splash.com> > > After longer than I want to admit, I am at the final stages of fitting the doors! Just painted the interior last night. I finally got a satisfactory fit by using clear packing tape on the Jams, hair spray as a release agent, then used flox with the west systems and filled the jams with the doors closed. This allows the resin to stick to the door edge and not the jams. Then meticulously hand and until you get the gap you want. No doubt the doors SUCK! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Sean, You had asked about the broadband splitter. I was able to get a picture of it yesterday. I believe that this is who makes them for Garmin. They are very small, especially for the amount of money that they get for splitters. I didn't look up a source for these but there should be enough info in the picture to find them. I got it from my local avionics shop (Airborne Electronics, Sacramento). Sorry, I don't have the Garmin part number equivelent but I can get it for you, if necessary. This broadband splitter is only needed in front of the SL30 or other units that have the internal splitter for the glide slope and nav signals. You can come off the other side of this unit with a standard splitter for going to the two inputs for the 430W. I hope this helps. -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343355#343355 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/broadband_splitter_144.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors
Date: Jun 17, 2011
There is a reason I burried the tops of the screws on the cabin top and the doors...the only way my doors are coming off is if I forget to latch them and they go off into the wild blue yonder. Once you get the fit perfect=2C it might be suicide to remove them for paii nting=2C that is unless you really like the process of getting the fit perf ect all over again. Me...not! > Date: Fri=2C 17 Jun 2011 18:13:05 -0400 > From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ Doors > > > That's definitely the way to get the gap right. I think I did that 2 > years ago....but I'm still tweaking other aspect of the F!!#@#$@#$#%$#@ > Doors. > > I hope YMMV. > > Bill "finished the grind and remounting the doors for the nth time" Watso n > > On 6/17/2011 11:37 AM=2C rwwende wrote: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "rwwende"<rwendell@hydro-splash.com> > > > > After longer than I want to admit=2C I am at the final stages of fittin g the doors! Just painted the interior last night. I finally got a satisf actory fit by using clear packing tape on the Jams=2C hair spray as a relea se agent=2C then used flox with the west systems and filled the jams with t he doors closed. This allows the resin to stick to the door edge and not t he jams. Then meticulously hand and until you get the gap you want. No do ubt the doors SUCK! > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Yep, that's the exact Garmin part I linked to previously. Thanks Nick!! -Sean On Jun 17, 2011, at 8:07 PM, "Nick Leonard" wrote: > > Sean, > > You had asked about the broadband splitter. I was able to get a picture of it yesterday. I believe that this is who makes them for Garmin. They are very small, especially for the amount of money that they get for splitters. I didn't look up a source for these but there should be enough info in the picture to find them. I got it from my local avionics shop (Airborne Electronics, Sacramento). Sorry, I don't have the Garmin part number equivelent but I can get it for you, if necessary. > > This broadband splitter is only needed in front of the SL30 or other units that have the internal splitter for the glide slope and nav signals. You can come off the other side of this unit with a standard splitter for going to the two inputs for the 430W. I hope this helps. > > -------- > Nick Leonard > RV-10 (40015) Finish > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343355#343355 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/broadband_splitter_144.jpg > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: ADHARS Location
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2011
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
You might note that if you go to the website shown on the unit that they sell for about $45 from the manufacturer. On Fri, Jun 17, 2011 at 7:24 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > Yep, that's the exact Garmin part I linked to previously. > > Thanks Nick!! > > -Sean > > On Jun 17, 2011, at 8:07 PM, "Nick Leonard" wrote: > > > > > Sean, > > > > You had asked about the broadband splitter. I was able to get a picture > of it yesterday. I believe that this is who makes them for Garmin. They > are very small, especially for the amount of money that they get for > splitters. I didn't look up a source for these but there should be enough > info in the picture to find them. I got it from my local avionics shop > (Airborne Electronics, Sacramento). Sorry, I don't have the Garmin part > number equivelent but I can get it for you, if necessary. > > > > This broadband splitter is only needed in front of the SL30 or other > units that have the internal splitter for the glide slope and nav signals. > You can come off the other side of this unit with a standard splitter for > going to the two inputs for the 430W. I hope this helps. > > > > -------- > > Nick Leonard > > RV-10 (40015) Finish > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343355#343355 > > > > > > > > > > Attachments: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/broadband_splitter_144.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2011
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: ADHARS Location
Kelly, Ivan Kristensens got a real good set of photos on his web site that I intend to use for my build. - Rick #40956 Wings on hold during "Assembly Facility Insulating"-- --- On Fri, 6/17/11, Kelly McMullen wrote: From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Subject: RV10-List: ADHARS Location Received: Friday, June 17, 2011, 3:17 PM Vans sells a kit shelf for ADHARS. It clearly is intended by Vans to be pla ced alongside the elevator bellcrank behind the battery. I know some (Dynon ) ADHARS have incorporated the magnetometer in the same unit, so need a mag netically benign location. Given the steel bolts, etc in the bellcrank, pro bably not so good a place. -IIRC some have built a shelf near the top of fuselage one bulkhead behin d the rear of the baggage compartment. I don't remember who's website I saw this on, but would like to copy it.- Can someone give me a link to such a fabrication? Kelly 40866 Not sure from day to day what stage I am at...somewhere between fuselage an d FWF. #yiv1412773691 #yiv1412773691avg_ls_inline_popup{padding:0px 0px;margin-lef t:0px;margin-top:0px;overflow:hidden;word-wrap:break-word;color:black;font- size:10px;text-align:left;line-height:130%;} ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ADHARS Location
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jun 18, 2011
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ADHARS Location
From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 18, 2011
stein sells a shelf for this area ,alittle pricey but well made -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Fri, Jun 17, 2011 8:21 am Subject: RV10-List: ADHARS Location Vans sells a kit shelf for ADHARS. It clearly is intended by Vans to be pla ced alongside the elevator bellcrank behind the battery. I know some (Dynon ) ADHARS have incorporated the magnetometer in the same unit, so need a mag netically benign location. Given the steel bolts, etc in the bellcrank, pro bably not so good a place. IIRC some have built a shelf near the top of fuselage one bulkhead behind the rear of the baggage compartment. I don't remember who's website I saw t his on, but would like to copy it. Can someone give me a link to such a fa brication? Kelly 40866 Not sure from day to day what stage I am at...somewhere between fuselage an d FWF. -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sold on whiskers
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Jun 19, 2011
Thanks got the pic -------- See you OSH '11 Q/B - flying 1 yr+ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343449#343449 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose wheel pant removal question
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jun 19, 2011
How are most people removing the nose wheel pants? By removing the 2 Allen head bolts and keeping the brackets on the pants, or removing the 8 screws and leaving the brackets on the nose wheel? I've seen people do both... Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Nose wheel pant removal question
Date: Jun 19, 2011
I remove the two Allen head bolts. Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2011 11:00 AM Subject: RV10-List: Nose wheel pant removal question How are most people removing the nose wheel pants? By removing the 2 Allen head bolts and keeping the brackets on the pants, or removing the 8 screws and leaving the brackets on the nose wheel? I've seen people do both... Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Nose wheel pant removal question
Date: Jun 19, 2011
Hey Michael, Since I've had lots of practice here lately, this is what I've done. I remove the 2 Allen head bolts and keep the brackets on. But with modifications. I've put the stainless Helicoil threads in the aluminum forks so that the Allen bolts don't strip them out, replaced the original Allen bolts with ones 1/2 inch longer and use spacers so that the head extends beyond the pants so that the tow bars don't damage the pants. And I've replaced the two small washers on each side of the axel with a flattened out lock washer (it's a tiny bit thicker than the two thin washers) topped with a larger outer diameter washer. This makes sliding the brackets on the axel MUCH easier with the better clearance and the larger washer on top keeps the bracket from sliding off when first aligning the brackets. I've been renting out the Helicoil kit for $5 plus shipping to anyone interested that doesn't want to buy the whole kit (it's pricey) for just those two threads. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2011 1:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Nose wheel pant removal question > > > How are most people removing the nose wheel pants? By removing the 2 > Allen head bolts and keeping the brackets on the pants, or removing the 8 > screws and leaving the brackets on the nose wheel? I've seen people do > both... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Nose wheel pant removal question
Date: Jun 19, 2011
Much easier to remove the 2 allen head bolts and leave the brackets attached to the pants. I've done it both ways. David Maib 40559 Flying On Jun 19, 2011, at 1:00 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > > How are most people removing the nose wheel pants? By removing the > 2 Allen head bolts and keeping the brackets on the pants, or > removing the 8 screws and leaving the brackets on the nose wheel? > I've seen people do both... > > > Sent from my iPhone > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose wheel pant removal question
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jun 19, 2011
I use the Allen bolts. Only 30 hours though. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 19, 2011, at 11:00, Michael Kraus wrote: > > How are most people removing the nose wheel pants? By removing the 2 Allen head bolts and keeping the brackets on the pants, or removing the 8 screws and leaving the brackets on the nose wheel? I've seen people do both... > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Main gear weldment too small
Anyone seen a main gear socket smaller than the end of the gear legs? Fortunately not mine, but a fellow builder on the field. I measure his sockets at 0.02 smaller than the end of his gear legs. His gear legs measure the same as mine, but my gear sockets opening is about 0.03 bigger than his. Haven't come up with any ideas other than a brake cylinder hone to enlarge the opening. It is on an old Manila QB fuselage. Mine is new facility QB fuselage. Kelly -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Main gear weldment too small
Date: Jun 20, 2011
Hey Kelly, We didn't measure it, but it was definitely too tight a fit. Had to clean all the preservative off the legs and lightly sand them to get them to fit. And then it was a struggle. A brake cylinder hone should work as well. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 12:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Main gear weldment too small > > Anyone seen a main gear socket smaller than the end of the gear legs? > Fortunately not mine, but a fellow builder on the field. I measure his > sockets at 0.02 smaller than the end of his gear legs. His gear legs > measure the same as mine, but my gear sockets opening is about 0.03 bigger > than his. Haven't come up with any ideas other than a brake cylinder hone > to enlarge the opening. It is on an old Manila QB fuselage. Mine is new > facility QB fuselage. > Kelly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net>
Subject: Trim tab controls
Date: Jun 20, 2011
Had the same idea awhile ago - can you supply mfg pn on servoes? Richard Bibb 571-379-3290 mobile -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 2:16 PM Subject: RV10-List: Trim tab controls Hey Guys, I've about finished up with Linn's idea of using a micro controller and RC servos to operate a small tab extension on the aileron and rudder. Here's a first, somewhat crude, youtube video of my demonstrator: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPFUCQeOM4Q The servos are digital, high torque (88.88 oz-in) that weigh 1.59 oz. They are not like the old analog servos -- they don't "hunt". They have carbonite gear sets and there are metal control arms available. The idea is that they are light weight enough to mount on a small access panel inside the rudder and aileron. The digital readout can be customized to pretty much whatever the pilot wants -- or to a bar LED like the one supplied for the elevator trim. I like the digital cuz it gives a much more refined position, and cuz it was more of a challenge, but I'm aware that most pilots probably would see that as a distraction. The switches would be incorporated into the hat switch, toggle on the stick, or on the panel. Brightness of the digital display is controlable. I was concerned that the signal to the pulse motor servos might be compromised by the length of the wire, so I put 25 ft. on each -- and they work fine. I programmed in the feature to "save" the position you want, so that you don't have to reset the trim every time you start up the plane (i.e., the basic program sets the servo to neutral each time it powers up). I got most of the materials off Ebay and RadioShack for the demo. Probably around $100. The brain of the system is the Parallax BS2 micro controller and I've built in the MAX7219 8-digit display driver to control the digital displays. I started from zero and taught myself enough Pbasic to program this thing to do what I wanted it to do -- WHAT A BLAST!! If I can talk Wes into it, I'll probably build these into an aileron and the rudder that I have for the next -10 I'm building, then swap them out in his plane to see if they work. If they don't or no one likes them, it's still been an awesome project. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342323#342323 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2011
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Nose wheel pant removal question
Hi Lew, When its available I would like to rent the kit. I was thinking som ething had to be done with the aluminum and yours sounds like a great idea. =0ABruce 151BJ 53 hrs=0A=0AFrom: Lew Gallagher <lewgall(at)charter.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, June 19, 2011 10:40 AM=0ASubject: R e: RV10-List: Nose wheel pant removal question=0A=0A--> RV10-List message p osted by: "Lew Gallagher" =0A=0AHey Michael,=0A=0ASinc e I've had lots of practice here lately, this is what I've done.- I remov e the 2 Allen head bolts and keep the brackets on.- But with modification s.- I've put the stainless Helicoil threads in the aluminum forks so that the Allen bolts don't strip them out, replaced the original Allen bolts wi th ones 1/2 inch longer and use spacers so that the head extends beyond the pants so that the tow bars don't damage the pants.- And I've replaced th e two small washers on each side of the axel with a flattened out lock wash er (it's a tiny bit thicker than the two thin washers) topped with a larger outer diameter washer.- This makes sliding the brackets on the axel MUCH easier with the better clearance and the larger washer on top keeps the br acket from sliding off when first aligning the brackets.=0A=0AI've been ren ting out the Helicoil kit for $5 plus shipping to anyone interested that do esn't want to buy the whole kit (it's pricey) for just those two threads. =0A=0ALater, - Lew=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Krau s" =0ATo: =0ASent: Sun day, June 19, 2011 1:00 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Nose wheel pant removal qu flakeairport.net>=0A> =0A> How are most people removing the nose wheel pant s?- By removing the 2 Allen head bolts and keeping the brackets on the pa nts, or removing the 8 screws and leaving the brackets on the nose wheel? == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2011
Subject: Re: Main gear weldment too small
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Mine was smooth as a baby's bottom. I polished the inside of the mounts and the gear legs with scotchbrite. Then lubed them with some airframe grease. They slid right in without any issue at all. Phil On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 12:09 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Kelly, > > We didn't measure it, but it was definitely too tight a fit. Had to clean > all the preservative off the legs and lightly sand them to get them to fit. > And then it was a struggle. A brake cylinder hone should work as well. > > Later, - Lew > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 12:23 AM > Subject: RV10-List: Main gear weldment too small > > >> >> Anyone seen a main gear socket smaller than the end of the gear legs? >> Fortunately not mine, but a fellow builder on the field. I measure his >> sockets at 0.02 smaller than the end of his gear legs. His gear legs measure >> the same as mine, but my gear sockets opening is about 0.03 bigger than his. >> Haven't come up with any ideas other than a brake cylinder hone to enlarge >> the opening. It is on an old Manila QB fuselage. Mine is new facility QB >> fuselage. >> Kelly >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Nose wheel pant removal question
Date: Jun 20, 2011
Hey Bruce, Private email me your address and I'll send it on it's way. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Johnson To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 12:59 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel pant removal question Hi Lew, When its available I would like to rent the kit. I was thinking something had to be done with the aluminum and yours sounds like a great idea. Bruce 151BJ 53 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Trim tab controls
Date: Jun 20, 2011
Hey Richard, The servos are Hitec HS-5485HB. Let me know if you get something tested in flight. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 11:12 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim tab controls > > Had the same idea awhile ago - can you supply mfg pn on servoes? > > Richard Bibb > 571-379-3290 mobile ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2011
Subject: Re: Main gear weldment too small
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I don't believe the gear mounts are shared with any other RV model, since the part number is WD-1021, so don't see how it could be a mix up. The explanation of not finish machined at factory seems most probable....some quality control. On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 6:14 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > Just jumping into the conversation with an observation. After much head > scratching we discovered Vans shipped us a pair of 9A legs for our 8A. No > way to correct that situation except replacing for the correct units. I was > actually shocked to discover that the 7A, 8A, 9A main legs are each > different units with their own unique geometry/dimensions. Very un-Vans > like. through the RV list I heard from two others with the exact same parts > error. > Are you sure you have the correct parts? It has happened before... > BTW the plane rolls a lot better with the correct gear legs. > > Robin > > On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever < > roxianmike(at)msn.com> wrote: > >> My situation is beyond polishing, or for what I did yesterday, wearing >> out a drill trying to hone them out. The ID is more than .003 smaller than >> the leg OD. Talked to Vans today and they are thinking the housing may have >> not been honed appropriately at the factory.......the legs OD are the >> correct size. They are going to talk about it and we will visit tomorrow >> but I suspect my only option will be to pull them out and put new ones in. >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Main gear weldment too small
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 20, 2011
Put mine in today with very little trouble. Much easier than I anticipated actually. I did find that the hole in the leg top was slightly smaller than the specified drill bit so I predrilled it on the drill press first. That made it much easier to final drill the receiver. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343620#343620 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Jun 21, 2011
stein(at)steinair.com wrote: > BTW...we can officially post in the RV-10 section now that we (Jed) actually have an RV10 kit in the back going together!!!!! > -- Well it's about time. [Mr. Green] Good going Jed :D -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343653#343653 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2011
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings
What is the proper procedure for getting a snap bushing around tubes that already have fittings? I have a -6 line that I had made for fuel under the front seats and I'd like to place snap bushings for the two brackets the original went through. Do you just split the snap bushing in half? Thanks, -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware
Date: Jun 21, 2011
From: "George, Neal Capt 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
I buy all my fiberglass from www.thayercraft.com West Epoxy comes from a local marina (cheaper than all the online sources) or www.JamestownDistributors.com when the local guys are out. 2-part urethane foam comes from www.uscomposites.com neal -----Original Message----- Cool, I looked hard for a supplier and found that ACS was as good as the boat suppliers, so went there, but next time I'll definitely look at these guys. Always like to hear a good referral. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jun 21, 2011
Or just a single cut.... Sent from my iPhone On Jun 21, 2011, at 11:56 AM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > What is the proper procedure for getting a snap bushing around tubes that already have fittings? I have a -6 line that I had made for fuel under the front seats and I'd like to place snap bushings for the two brackets the original went through. Do you just split the snap bushing in half? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Jun 21, 2011
Just cut them and slip on the tube. No problem. -------- See you OSH '11 Q/B - flying 1 yr+ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343658#343658 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings
Date: Jun 21, 2011
I just cut it on the band saw on the side between the fingers that hold it in place. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- What is the proper procedure for getting a snap bushing around tubes that already have fittings? I have a -6 line that I had made for fuel under the front seats and I'd like to place snap bushings for the two brackets the original went through. Do you just split the snap bushing in half? Thanks, -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2011
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Getting Snap Bushing On Tube With Fittings
Thanks everyone... -Sean On 6/21/11 12:08 PM, Albert Gardner wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" > > I just cut it on the band saw on the side between the fingers that hold it > in place. > Albert Gardner > N991RV > Yuma, AZ > > -----Original Message----- > What is the proper procedure for getting a snap bushing around tubes > that already have fittings? I have a -6 line that I had made for fuel > under the front seats and I'd like to place snap bushings for the two > brackets the original went through. Do you just split the snap bushing > in half? > Thanks, > -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Date: Jun 21, 2011
Hey John, Maybe I misunderstood, but I think the idea is to close off that area, not create an intake. Otherwise, good fiberglass fun stuff! Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: John Gonzalez To: RV 10 group Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 5:47 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to? Seems like making a actuating aluminum scoop would be a cleaner installation than putting an intake in that area. If one is hell bend on making a vent, use duct tape as a parting agent between the painted cowl and the fabicated part. Laminate up some foam, a heavy density blue foam or Spider foam works great. You can adhere the foam to the Duct tape with Bondo. Shape it with saws, cheese grader, rasps, files or what every suits your fancy. Hand sand it with 80 grit down to 180. Blow off dust with compressed air. laminate with microballons. Shape and sand again. Laminate with several layers of glass and resin, a satin weave would work best on the compound angles. Let cure. Hollow out the foam with tools or spill fuel on a foam that desolves. WaLLAAA! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Fairing Construction - How to?
Date: Jun 21, 2011
Silly me creating things for the sake of creation and not for reason. I was thinking that he wanted to create a venturi and was hoping to suck mo re air in through the front end by having a more direct route for air going out the back end. Sealing it would be even easier=2C just make a spring loaded device that re tracts when the gear leg pushes on it. From: lewgall(at)charter.net Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to? Date: Tue=2C 21 Jun 2011 18:18:08 -0400 Hey John=2C Maybe I misunderstood=2C but I think the idea is to close off that area=2C not create an intake. Otherwise=2C good fiberglass fun stuff! Later=2C - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: John Gonzalez Sent: Tuesday=2C June 21=2C 2011 5:47 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to? Seems like making a actuating aluminum scoop would be a cleaner installatio n than putting an intake in that area. If one is hell bend on making a vent=2C use duct tape as a parting agent be tween the painted cowl and the fabicated part. Laminate up some foam=2C a heavy density blue foam or Spider foam works gre at. You can adhere the foam to the Duct tape with Bondo. Shape it with saws=2C cheese grader=2C rasps=2C files or what every suits y our fancy. Hand sand it with 80 grit down to 180. Blow off dust with compressed air. l aminate with microballons. Shape and sand again. Laminate with several layers of glass and resin=2C a satin weave would work best on the compound angles. Let cure. Hollow out the foam with tools or spill fuel on a foam that desolves. WaLLAAA! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Byron&Donya" <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Subject: AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info
Date: Jun 21, 2011
I am still fine tuning all the settings during phase one. One area that I am not sure about is the % horsepower settings entered. I have the engine manual and using the chart "sea level and altitude performance data IO-540-D.." have tried to derive the required data for input.. Required inputs: For various RPM settings: MAP 55% and MAP75% settings - Also the HP delta at different altitudes. I have extracted some MAP numbers at the two HP settings from the charts and it seems more like educated guesses than good info and not really sure how to get the HP delta numbers. If someone has the info readily available, I would really appreciate sending the data for reference. More importantly if there is some info available on how best to generate the numbers from the manual - it would be greatly appreciated. Feeling pretty ignorant at the moment... I didn't see anything in the archives relative. If you want to pm me at bgill1(at)charter(dot)net it would be appreciated. Byron N253RV Phase one.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info
Date: Jun 21, 2011
If your AFS is and EM only, the %HP doesn't work yet - they haven't finished the software to get altitude in to the equation from your GPS..... %HP was one of the features that convinced me to go with AFS....I have since upgraded it to SP with s processor and new screen and %HP now works - as it can get altitude from the SP altimeter.... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron&Donya Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 9:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info I am still fine tuning all the settings during phase one. One area that I am not sure about is the % horsepower settings entered. I have the engine manual and using the chart "sea level and altitude performance data IO-540-D.." have tried to derive the required data for input.. Required inputs: For various RPM settings: MAP 55% and MAP75% settings - Also the HP delta at different altitudes. I have extracted some MAP numbers at the two HP settings from the charts and it seems more like educated guesses than good info and not really sure how to get the HP delta numbers. If someone has the info readily available, I would really appreciate sending the data for reference. More importantly if there is some info available on how best to generate the numbers from the manual - it would be greatly appreciated. Feeling pretty ignorant at the moment... I didn't see anything in the archives relative. If you want to pm me at bgill1(at)charter(dot)net it would be appreciated. Byron N253RV Phase one.. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jun 21, 2011
A few years ago I ordered an aircraft battery, plus about 8 oz of small parts, from ACS. The ACS catalog said "Free shipping on batteries". When I got it, there was a $25 shipping charge. When I complained, they said "You didn't SPECIFY that you wanted free shipping". Duh.


May 30, 2011 - June 22, 2011

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-if