RV10-Archive.digest.vol-if
May 30, 2011 - June 22, 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341532#341532
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft winch recommendation |
This is the Kitplanes article that inspired me to build my own electric tow
bar.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
I took one of mine out because of a screw up that I made. It was a
nightmare and there wasn't anything to see after I pulled it (I pulled the
floor skin "just because").
I'd leave them right where they are, but I'd consider loosening all of the
AN hardware to neutral and then re-tourqing so you know they're correct.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
No. Do not loosen and retorque. First of all you cannot accurately
measure torque that was applied. All you are doing is removing more of
the cad plating on the bolt. An AN-3 properly torqued, when loosened
later will likely take 50-80 in/lbs to break free, even though only
25"/lbs plus the resistance of the locknut were applied to begin with.
Huge waste of time that accomplishes nothing.
It is easy to remove the few pop-rivets that hold the floor, to vacuum
underneath and a bit harder to push insulation in, but very doable
without removing fittings.
On 5/30/2011 5:25 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> I took one of mine out because of a screw up that I made. It was a
> nightmare and there wasn't anything to see after I pulled it (I pulled
> the floor skin "just because").
>
> I'd leave them right where they are, but I'd consider loosening all of
> the AN hardware to neutral and then re-tourqing so you know they're
> correct.
>
> Phil
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com> |
I appreciate all of your comments. It's great to learn from experience.
I'm all for taking the simple approach. I'm not planning to put insulation under
the floor, but wasn't sure if I needed access for some other reason. Looks
like a little cleaning and on to the next step.
Thank you,
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341542#341542
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Donald Orrick <don.orrick(at)yahoo.com> |
Everyone,
Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/
destination that will appeal to a majority?
just wondering.
Don Orrick
N410JA
40010
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au> |
I know the feeling, I took the bolts out of my QB last week. It took nearly 6
hours to dissemble everything. There was a lot of damage done to the bolts during
the process and they will need to be replaced.
I reamed out the holes that were tight and left the others alone but it left me
wondering how on earth they put the bolts in with them being so tight?
Under the floor pans there was a little dust and some aluminium savings but otherwise
it looks pretty good. I'm not planning on Insulating I just wanted to prime
under the floor pans.
cheers
John MacCallum
QB 41016
VHDUU
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341545#341545
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
If you do the factory stall warning vane, removal of the left tank is
necessary. Regardless of aerodynamic warning, IMHO, either an AOA or
stall warning system should be mandatory, as it is for certified planes.
Not every pilot is observant of aerodynamic warnings when occupied with
other tasks in the cockpit, and a horn, voice or flashing light is
better than nothing.
There is nothing about removing a tank, short of dropping it that is
likely to have one bit of effect on how well the tank is sealed. None of
the fasteners penetrate the sealed portion. A tank is 100% easier to do
a thorough leak check with it off the wing. If you have one that leaks,
you will want to be able to negotiate with Vans ASAP, not months after
delivery. Just my opinion and what I did with mine. Being owner built
and maintained, all are welcome to make their own choices.
Kelly
On 5/30/2011 4:40 PM, DLM wrote:
> - Some take the fuel tanks off the QB wings; again why? They have
> already been tested at the QB facility. If they leak, it will be your
> problem now or at some future time.It is possible to create a problem
> during the tank removal. Some will install a stall warning system;
> others will rely on an EFIS warning. If you fly the airplane and do
> not feel the impending stall you are comatose or embalmed. The stick
> shakes very noticeably. My point is taking everything apart costs you
> time and money. Taking things apart can also cause problems noticed or
> unnoticed during reassembly. That's the reason the post annual
> inspection test flight is one of the riskier of the year.
> -
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Kaufmann <bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com> |
I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already
a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Orrick
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
Everyone,
Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ destination
that will appeal to a majority?
just wondering.
Don Orrick
N410JA
40010
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder Stops? |
http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409
Not sure if that is the same I got. One I have will require significant
trimming when I get the tail back on and can determine what gives
correct range of travel.
On 5/30/2011 7:59 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor
>
> Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
We're in!
Say when and where, we should be doing it. More than enough airplanes by
now. How about before or after OSH somewhere in the central US? If before
then followed by mass arrival of RV-10's, (everyone else does it) well maybe
we're getting carried away here. Extending Oshkosh too long a time frame?
OK how about a mid winter get away to the Central Southern part of the
Country?
Dick Sipp
RV-10 N110DV 360 hours
Qualified B-25 SIC :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Orrick
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 5:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
Everyone,
Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/
destination that will appeal to a majority?
just wondering.
Don Orrick
N410JA
40010
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products
. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi
l.
As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar
e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l
iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
Date: Mon=2C 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400
From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with
Wonderfil. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and
wipe it off. It would seem to be compatible with anything you might
put over it. And in fact=2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes
you may have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and
spray whatever you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the
Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderfil=2C I used a 'high
fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a
decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to
use a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically
compatible with most Dupont finishing products including the Imron
Elite line I ended up using. Lohle has a high fill primer product
but I decided not to use it because I wasn't planning to stay with
the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes
and priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer
it that way... but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final
assembly and flight" Watson
I know this has been discussed before
but what is the current thinking on a material for filling and
sealing the cabin top before application of primer.Please
share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rudder Stops? |
From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
try Craig Vincent at 209-609-6730.He is at TCY
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 8:03 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Stops?
.com>
Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
Dave Saylor
irCrafters
40 Aviation Way
atsonville, CA 95076
31-722-9141 Shop
31-750-0284 Cell
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I got mine from Craig. As is, you will only get about 25 degrees of travel. Trimming
is on my to do task list to get the desired range of travel.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder Stops?
http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409
Not sure if that is the same I got. One I have will require significant trimming
when I get the tail back on and can determine what gives correct range of travel.
On 5/30/2011 7:59 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave
> --> Saylor
>
> Does somebody remember who sells the plastic rudder stops? Mine broke.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com wrote:
> I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already
> a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers.
>
> Bob K
>
> --
I don't have the dates here at work but it is in October. I will be there since
it is a 15 minute flight.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341574#341574
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas (KWEA or
about 10 other airports there)?
On May 30, 2011, at 7:59 PM, Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>
> I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are already
> a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers.
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Orrick
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
>
>
> Everyone,
> Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
> numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
> Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/ destination
> that will appeal to a majority?
> just wondering.
>
>
>
>
> Don Orrick
> N410JA
> 40010
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
John Ackerman wrote:
> I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas (KWEA
or about 10 other airports there)?
> --
LOE stood for Land of Enchantment and was in NM but now has been re-defined as
Lots of Experimentals. For all practical proposess, it is an RV fly in with two
goals. One is lots of RV's getting to gather and the other is they raise a
BUNCH of money for charity. :D
Find the info on it on VansAirforce. Right now it is only in the Calender but
later this summer it will start showing up in other posts there. Vetterman used
to run it and has retired from being the major organizer. I think one of the
people heading it up this year is a -10 driver. Not 100% sure.
The location last year and this year again is Weatherford OK KOJA and the dates
are Fri Oct 7 thru Sun Oct 9th. Planes will start arriving mid day Friday.
This last year, I got there around 1:30 and the ramp had just filled up and they
started parking everyone on the grass. Lots of grass and stickers [Shocked]
The Stafford Air and Space museum is located on the field and was included. Very
good :D
Last year, we had a very good turn out of -10's.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341599#341599
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Count me in. I think Weatherford would be a great centralized place.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341630#341630
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: cabin top filling sealing |
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching.
I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other
products. While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not
have used the Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the
Lohle line for priming and finishing.
The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and
the cowling and the pants is this
Step 1,2,3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling
(do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface,
then sand thru the fill, you may re-expose the pinholes). There were
plenty of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil
and recommend it, especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any
major depressions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix.
Superfil is faster and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or
2 passes here. Then do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester
filler like Metal Glaze. Easy to use because it sets immediately and
sands very easily. You might do a dozen passes on a piece but they go
fast. Some people will advise not to mix polyester fillers and epoxy.
The pros do it and for very good reason; it's efficient. Then spray on
a 'high fill' primer with some tint. Here, brand selection probably
starts to be important. Tt probably makes sense to use a filler that is
compatible with the primer/topcoat you plan to use. In any case,
Lohle does theirs in black, my Dupont product is gray. Color helps you
see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of black can be used for
this too - I didn't. Sand it down, blow it off, and see what's left to
do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again with Wonderfil just
before spraying more fill or starting the ....
Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with
your topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum &
plastic. If this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be
farmed out, stop and think about how much of steps 1,2, and 3 the paint
shop should do. Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others
think? If DIY, follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh
system for epoxies, polyurethanes and probably anything else.
Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure
how I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec
sheets. Coatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be
played with or guessed at for good results.
Previously, someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a
re-packaging of another product that is available under other labels.
The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key.
There are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various
filling/sanding properties. I was happy with mine for the most part but
had some challenges. When it was humid, the filler would 'cheese' when
sanded and immediatly clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully
ventilated spray booth and fresh air breathing eqipment, I found that I
wanted full protection when sanding a week after spraying. Fumes came
off the filler for a couple of weeks and they weren't pleasant. In any
case, filling and sanding the big parts is a lot of work.... or not.
On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> A correction to this email, Wonderfil is not compatible with all
> products. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to
> use Wonderfil.
>
> As for the cowling, those are not pinholes, those are craters. These
> are better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO, even if the
> Loehle literature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400
> From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
>
> I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
>
> What I did on my fiberglass (cowling, top, etc) is start with
> Wonderfil. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe
> it off. It would seem to be compatible with anything you might put
> over it. And in fact, is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may
> have missed. Just rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever
> you are spraying on top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you
> can move on. After the Wonderfil, I used a 'high fill' primer product.
>
> But when you get to the primer stage, it's a good time to make a
> decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to
> use a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible
> with most Dupont finishing products including the Imron Elite line I
> ended up using. Lohle has a high fill primer product but I decided
> not to use it because I wasn't planning to stay with the Lohle line of
> products.
>
> If you are farming out your painting, you could leave the pinholes and
> priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it
> that way... but I don't really know.
>
> Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final
> assembly and flight" Watson
>
> I know this has been discussed before but what is the current
> thinking on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top
> before application of primer.Please share your experiences with
> ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim
>
>
> *
>
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Capacitive Fuel System |
From: | Jonathan Beasley <jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com> |
How many =AD10 out there are running capacitive fuel systems? Feedback? Which
Vans capacitive probes are right for the =AD10? I see the probes for the
RV4/6/7/8 tanks (Probe A) and the RV9 tanks (Probe 9) but no RV10 tanks=8A so
I'm assuming either Probe A or Probe 9 will work???
It would
Thanks,
Jonathan (#41236 =AD Working on Tailcone and researching Wing options)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
Hi Bill=2C
My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor
ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro
blem.
I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo
rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no
t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca
n't do it until the S&P is cured.
As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the
paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp
ly a wetting agent.
The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is
that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the
y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the
n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large
amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer
over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass
of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c
up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti
r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical
s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu
red.
So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and
then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C
bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri
ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others.
I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I
would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc
ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule.
The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t
he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o
nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed
against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to.
To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack
there of on the producers side.
No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie
nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a
true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery???????????
????
Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part
and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane.
I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy
=2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again
. From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons
Date: Tue=2C 31 May 2011 15:11:58 -0400
From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching.
I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other products.
While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not have used the
Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the Lohle line for primi
ng and finishing.
The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and the
cowling and the pants is this
Step 1=2C2=2C3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling (
do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface=2C then
sand thru the fill=2C you may re-expose the pinholes). There were plenty
of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil and recomm
end it=2C especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any major depress
ions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix. Superfil is faster
and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or 2 passes here. Then
do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester filler like Metal Glaze.
Easy to use because it sets immediately and sands very easily. You might
do a dozen passes on a piece but they go fast. Some people will advise no
t to mix polyester fillers and epoxy. The pros do it and for very good rea
son=3B it's efficient. Then spray on a 'high fill' primer with some tint.
Here=2C brand selection probably starts to be important. Tt probably mak
es sense to use a filler that is compatible with the primer/topcoat you pla
n to use. In any case=2C Lohle does theirs in black=2C my Dupont product
is gray. Color helps you see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of
black can be used for this too - I didn't. Sand it down=2C blow it off=2C
and see what's left to do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again wit
h Wonderfil just before spraying more fill or starting the ....
Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with your
topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum & plastic. If
this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be farmed out=2C sto
p and think about how much of steps 1=2C2=2C and 3 the paint shop should do
. Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others think? If DIY=2C
follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh system for epoxies
=2C polyurethanes and probably anything else.
Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure ho
w I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec sheets. C
oatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be played with or
guessed at for good results.
Previously=2C someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a re-pac
kaging of another product that is available under other labels.
The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key. The
re are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various filling/sanding p
roperties. I was happy with mine for the most part but had some challenges
. When it was humid=2C the filler would 'cheese' when sanded and immediatl
y clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully ventilated spray booth and fres
h air breathing eqipment=2C I found that I wanted full protection when sand
ing a week after spraying. Fumes came off the filler for a couple of weeks
and they weren't pleasant. In any case=2C filling and sanding the big par
ts is a lot of work.... or not.
On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM=2C John Gonzalez wrote:
A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products
. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi
l.
As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar
e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l
iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
Date: Mon=2C 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400
From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with Wonderfil
. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It wo
uld seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in fact
=2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just rub
a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on top.
The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderf
il=2C I used a 'high fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a decision
about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use a Dupont hi
gh fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with most Dupont fi
nishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up using. Lohle ha
s a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it because I wasn't p
lanning to stay with the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes and pr
iming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that way..
. but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final assembly
and flight" Watson
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a
material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of prime
r.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Different John responding. Paint compatibility is one of two issues not
resolved by builders early enough in their process. Which topcoat is
the final finish should dictate which filler, which primer and what
surface prep lends itself to long term adhesion. Primer wars start
builders on one side of a Mason-Dixon Paint line only to find out that
improper surface prep, wrong selection of primer, an incompatible filler
do not work chemically in partnership with the topcoat selected Late in
that process. Chemistry/Cleanliness/Planning & Prep assist the
application of topcoat that will last and bring pride to the purchaser.
Many builders chose finished surfaces based on a lower price or ease of
work.
Choose wisely.
John Cox, #40600 & former auto paint restoration specialist with air
carrier paint experience beyond my current desire.
PS - the other issue #2 -is the selection of specific antenna and their
respective location(s) too late in the build to get the maximum signal
transmission and reception after the late avionics decision. Choice of
equipment often predicates antenna selection. The best installation
requires planning during the initial build - not as a retro at the tail
end.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching.
On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
A correction to this email, Wonderfil is not compatible with all
products. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to
use Wonderfil.
As for the cowling, those are not pinholes, those are craters. These are
better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO, even if the Loehle
literature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
________________________________
Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400
From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling, top, etc) is start with Wonderfil.
It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It
would seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in
fact, is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just
rub a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on
top. The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After
the Wonderfil, I used a 'high fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage, it's a good time to make a
decision about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use
a Dupont high fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with
most Dupont finishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up
using. Lohle has a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it
because I wasn't planning to stay with the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting, you could leave the pinholes and
priming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that
way... but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final
assembly and flight" Watson
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking
on a material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application
of primer.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing
-thanks Jim
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
One of the most enjoyable parts of building this plane took place last wint
er while building the plane in this special wide Mobile Mini storage contai
ner. For five years the plane was in the basement of my house with one smal
l window and I was in the dungeon.
I am in California=2C so it was night=2C my wife and daughter were away=2C
probably 36-40 degrees outside=2C wearing a beeney=2C the electric oil heat
er on=2C raining extremely hard and windy as hell=2C the sides of the stora
ge container buckling in the wind=2C a piece of plywood banging into the si
de=2C =2C a bungee cord holding the door closed=2C the Sirius radio on and
all I could think about was how cool this was.
After I was done for the evening I though about how I would never forget th
at night and wished I would have video taped it.
Leaving on the trailer for paint June 23rd.
409NS =0A
Cowl sealing=0A
http://cid-cf8c9ba70acf9731.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=browse&resi
d=CF8C9BA70ACF9731!147&type=5&Bpub=SDX.Photos&Bsrc=Photomail&authke
y=f23!sIWNW9g%24=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
I wrote up a very lengthy email to Bill and the list regarding my experienc
e with Wonderfil.
I hit the send button and it never came through. I also do not see it in my
sent box either
It appearently is lost in cyberspace someplace. Perhaps to surface later.
The second email came through with the pictures=2C but that was not my answ
er to Bill's question.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
In fact=2C when I click on the sent tab=2C it show John Cox's email as orig
inating from my computer with my email briefly showing before his stays on
the screen.
No nitrous patients today=2C nor was I sucking it down.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | nolvadex generic |
From: | "ngenerr" <curtlaytharab(at)gmail.com> |
Nolvadex (TAMOXIFEN) is an anti-estrogen used to treat or prevent breast cancer.
It may also be used to treat other conditions as determined by your doctor
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341665#341665
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James McGrew" <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
Subject: | Failed Alternator |
Hi RV-10 Group,
My alternator failed after around 200 hours of flight (over 5 years) and I
learned some things that may be worth sharing. I am using the 60 amp
alternator that came with the Van's Firewall Forward kit in 2005 (not sure
what they are shipping now). See attached photo of the alternator. I have
learned that it came from a Suzuki Samuri (part #14684), or a Geo Tracker,
or a Toyota forklift, although I'm not sure if they did any mods to it
before including it in the kit. According to the alternator repair shop I
took it to, I don't think so.
Upon landing last week, I noticed that my voltage was ~11.3 V. I tried a
quick run-up and that didn't bring up the voltage. I tested my batteries the
next day and they were both quite discharged. I downloaded my engine data
and saw that the alternator voltage had gone down the day before the flight
during an engine run. It was still putting out current, so when I looked at
that during my run-up/flight it didn't catch my eye. However, the voltage
was too low to charge the batteries and they continued to discharge
throughout the flight. First lesson learned - I need to set a higher
lower-limit for low voltage on my engine monitor.
I took it to a shop and the tech immediately pointed out that one of the
three phases was burned out . He saws this easily by the white globs of
melted plastic on every third coil (see other photo). Upon disassembly this
was caused by a mechanical failure of one of the phase leads (see picture),
the other two were still making power. This failure was either due to the
way the stator was installed during manufacture, or excessive vibration
(again, I only have ~200 hours on the plane). I just had my prop balanced,
maybe I should have done that sooner.
That's it. Hope that helps someone.
-Jim
N312JE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Subject: | Capacitive Fuel System |
Jonathon
I am using the Capacitive system in my tanks on the 10. I ordered from Vans
the RV-9 Capacitive system kit, I think it was about $60 it uses 2
different plates and comes with everything you need except to make two
plates that are the same shape as a tank rib. I can give you a few web
sites to review from a couple of builders that have done this. It is very
simple and should make for very accurate fuel gauges.
John Cumins
40864 Wings rear spar riveting.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan Beasley
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Capacitive Fuel System
How many -10 out there are running capacitive fuel systems? Feedback? Which
Vans capacitive probes are right for the -10? I see the probes for the
RV4/6/7/8 tanks (Probe A) and the RV9 tanks (Probe 9) but no RV10 tanks. so
I'm assuming either Probe A or Probe 9 will work???
It would
Thanks,
Jonathan (#41236 - Working on Tailcone and researching Wing options)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-10 fly in? |
From: | fixitauto(at)aol.com |
Boone RV Day 2011 will be
Saturday June 18th
FOR MORE INFO http://wcaircraft.com/home.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Orrick <don.orrick(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, May 30, 2011 8:46 pm
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
Everyone,
ears ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
umbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
s there still any interest? If so where is a good location/
estination that will appeal to a majority?
ust wondering.
on Orrick
410JA
0010
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
Just did this a few weeks ago. When I noted that all of the QB bolts had torque
seal BUT the landing gear bolts, the floors can't be removed without removing
the landing gear, and I want insulation under the floorboards...I decided to
remove the landing gear mounts. I It was very difficult to remove both gear mounts
due to the incredible force on some of the bolts. You can tell that some
bolts were doing 100% of the work and others were doing 0% (as evidenced by
the pressure to remove and the surface cad lost). In the end, they came out
with some damage to the bolt heads (from the plier used to grab and pull). A
few bucks worth of bolts from Vans and I was feeling good about my ability to
access the floors. No odd findings, but good access to verify everything and
add insulation. I fabricated drifts out of the old bolts (see image attached)
which my tech counselor said would be very helpful in aligning everything for
reassemby. Reassembly is around the corner...so I'll let everyone know if it
was more/less difficult then removal. In the end, I do not feel it is imperative
to remove the gear, but no harm is caused by doing so.
--------
RV-10 builder #41059
Elevator nearly complete!
QB fuselage and wings ready to go
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341674#341674
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo_375.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Failed Alternator |
From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
Jim,
Can't really tell from the picture, but it doesn't look like the plane power alternator?
I had insufficient voltage with my alternator from the start, it was
between 12.5 to 13.5 ,always causing me to conserve amps in flight. Plane power
kept directing me to do diagnostic tests, saying it was usually a short or
bad wiring somewhere else. Finally they took it back, checked it out, said nothing
was wrong, but replaced a couple things (not sure what) and its been running
great ever sense.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341676#341676
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Failed Alternator |
From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Mine failed at exactly 200 hrs. Van replaced it without charge. Not sure if I
have a different one now but I have accumulated 360 hr on the replacement.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
On May 31, 2011, at 8:30 PM, "James McGrew" wrote:
> Hi RV-10 Group,
>
>
>
> My alternator failed after around 200 hours of flight (over 5 years) and I
learned some things that may be worth sharing. I am using the 60 amp altern
ator that came with the Van=99s Firewall Forward kit in 2005 (not sure
what they are shipping now). See attached photo of the alternator. I have l
earned that it came from a Suzuki Samuri (part #14684), or a Geo Tracker, or
a Toyota forklift, although I=99m not sure if they did any mods to it
before including it in the kit. According to the alternator repair shop I t
ook it to, I don=99t think so.
>
>
>
> Upon landing last week, I noticed that my voltage was ~11.3 V. I tried a q
uick run-up and that didn=99t bring up the voltage. I tested my batter
ies the next day and they were both quite discharged. I downloaded my engine
data and saw that the alternator voltage had gone down the day before the f
light during an engine run. It was still putting out current, so when I look
ed at that during my run-up/flight it didn=99t catch my eye. However, t
he voltage was too low to charge the batteries and they continued to dischar
ge throughout the flight. First lesson learned =93 I need to set a hig
her lower-limit for low voltage on my engine monitor.
>
>
>
> I took it to a shop and the tech immediately pointed out that one of the t
hree phases was burned out . He saws this easily by the white globs of melte
d plastic on every third coil (see other photo). Upon disassembly this was c
aused by a mechanical failure of one of the phase leads (see picture), the o
ther two were still making power. This failure was either due to the way the
stator was installed during manufacture, or excessive vibration (again, I o
nly have ~200 hours on the plane). I just had my prop balanced, maybe I shou
ld have done that sooner.
>
>
>
> That=99s it. Hope that helps someone.
>
>
>
> -Jim
>
> N312JE
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Kaufmann <bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com> |
Oklahoma
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
I'm unable to find LOE. Where is Weatherford? Oklahoma (KOJA) ? Texas
(KWEA or about 10 other airports there)?
On May 30, 2011, at 7:59 PM, Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>
> I would think LOE at Weatherford would be a great place. There are
> already a bunch of 10s there and a whole lot of other RVers.
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald
> Orrick
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:25 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 fly in?
>
>
> Everyone,
> Years ago there was discussions about having an RV-10 fly in once the
> numbers of flying planes reached enough to do so. Are we there yet?
> Is there still any interest? If so where is a good location/
> destination that will appeal to a majority?
> just wondering.
>
>
>
>
> Don Orrick
> N410JA
> 40010
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Subject: | Failed Alternator |
My Vans supplied 60 A alternator failed at about 150 hours. The replacement
was an Nippondenso Model 36-14684N from an auto parts store and seems to be
working fine at 550 hrs. I get the impression that a suitable alternator may
be found under several manufacturer/part no. combinations.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | lost email found |
Hi Bill=2C
My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor
ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro
blem.
I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo
rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no
t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca
n't do it until the S&P is cured.
As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the
paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp
ly a wetting agent.
The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is
that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the
y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the
n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large
amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer
over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass
of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c
up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti
r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical
s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu
red.
So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and
then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C
bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri
ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others.
I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I
would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc
ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule.
The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t
he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o
nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed
against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to.
To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack
there of on the producers side.
No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie
nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a
true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery???????????
????
Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part
and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane.
I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy
=2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again
. From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | cabin top filling sealing |
Below is my lost email reply to Bill's Watson. After clicking twenty times
or more on my sent tab and bringing up the email John Cox's sent today=2C m
y email finally showed up. My sent box also showed JOhn Cox's email as bein
g sent yesterday=2C in addition to today.
Kind of like working upside down under the instrument panel with your shoul
ders contourted into the most uncomfortable position to the point of pain
=2C just to tighten that screw...persistence pays off.
John G.
From: indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
Date: Tue=2C 31 May 2011 13:48:39 -0700
Hi Bill=2C
My experience was not asking Mr. Loehle himself about how the wonderfil wor
ks. I told his wife what I was doing and she didn't think it would be a pro
blem.
I used UV Smooth and Prime. UV S&P is a water based product and does not wo
rk in the same chemistry of the poly ester and maybe epoxy primers. I am no
t saying that one can't spray these primers on top of UV S&P=2C you just ca
n't do it until the S&P is cured.
As I understand it=2C Wonderfil is a thickened/ concentrated version of the
paint carrier molecule. In the application of it in this manner it is simp
ly a wetting agent.
The problem IMO with using it on the cowl as Loehle shows in his manual is
that those defects in the cowl outer surface are not small pin holes=2C the
y are craters. Even though the manual states to whip it on liberaly and the
n whip off the excess=2C these voids on the surface are filled with a large
amount of the wonderfil. I seriously doubt that sraying a layer of primer
over the top of it would allow the primer to thoroughly mix with that mass
of wonderfil beneath. I like to think of it as pouring epoxy resin into a c
up and then adding the hardner into the cup and maybe making one or two sti
r strokes with a tongue depressor. The result is that only the two chemical
s that immediately touch will react=2C leaving everything below that not cu
red.
So I Wonderfilled the the cowl surface and then whipped off the excess and
then rolled the UV S&P. It was like painting over a pitted waxed surface=2C
bonded in some spots(where there was no Wonderfil)=2C enough to cause seri
ous grief in later removal and totally not bonded in others.
I am not saying that Wonderfil does not work on pin holes=2C I am saying I
would not use it on the rough surface of the cowl and not with other produc
ts that do not use this chemical for the carrier molecule.
The cowl has a problem in the production of it. The outer glass making up t
he skin pulls away from the mold once the Nomex honeycomb is added making o
nly the glass which is on contact with this honeycomb actually stay pushed
against the mold. The result is the huge craters I refer to.
To correct this=2C one needs to add a lot of effort making up for the lack
there of on the producers side.
No matter what system used to correct for this=2C speaking from the experie
nce of an anal retentive dentist=2C how one effectively roughens and gets a
true bond to the bottoms of these craters is a complete mistery???????????
????
Corn blaster or sandblaster would work great=2C but would destroy the part
and or add the weight of the beach to the front end of your airplane.
I removed all the UV S&P and then made a slurry of chopped glass and epoxy
=2C squeggying it over the cowl and then after cure=2C sanding it out again
. From there I leveled it out with Epoxy and Micro ballons
Date: Tue=2C 31 May 2011 15:11:58 -0400
From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
What was your incompatibility experience John? Sounds wrenching.
I stand corrected in that no product is compatible with all other products.
While I felt comfortable using the Wonderfil - I would not have used the
Lohle "UV blocker filler" unless I was sticking to the Lohle line for primi
ng and finishing.
The way I understand the process at this point pieces like the top and the
cowling and the pants is this
Step 1=2C2=2C3: Filling. First get the pinholes before any other filling (
do it before any filling because if you fill over a pinhole surface=2C then
sand thru the fill=2C you may re-expose the pinholes). There were plenty
of them on both my green top and pink cowling. I used Wonderfil and recomm
end it=2C especially for this initial pass. Then fill in any major depress
ions with an epoxy based filler. Could be a micro mix. Superfil is faster
and easier with an easily sandable result. Just 1 or 2 passes here. Then
do the rest of the minor filling with a polyester filler like Metal Glaze.
Easy to use because it sets immediately and sands very easily. You might
do a dozen passes on a piece but they go fast. Some people will advise no
t to mix polyester fillers and epoxy. The pros do it and for very good rea
son=3B it's efficient. Then spray on a 'high fill' primer with some tint.
Here=2C brand selection probably starts to be important. Tt probably mak
es sense to use a filler that is compatible with the primer/topcoat you pla
n to use. In any case=2C Lohle does theirs in black=2C my Dupont product
is gray. Color helps you see stuff so don't use white. A 'tell' coat of
black can be used for this too - I didn't. Sand it down=2C blow it off=2C
and see what's left to do. I had a few pinholes left which I hit again wit
h Wonderfil just before spraying more fill or starting the ....
Step 4: Prime: Here you want to have chosen a product compatible with your
topcoat and plan on spraying everything with it - aluminum & plastic. If
this is a DIY paint job proceed. If this is going to be farmed out=2C sto
p and think about how much of steps 1=2C2=2C and 3 the paint shop should do
. Maybe they should be doing all of it. What do others think? If DIY=2C
follow the data sheets have good ventilation AND a fresh system for epoxies
=2C polyurethanes and probably anything else.
Step 5: Topcoat - I took a idiosyncratic path - worked well but not sure ho
w I'd do it next time. Just stay compatiable and follow the spec sheets. C
oatings are sophisticated chemistry these days and not to be played with or
guessed at for good results.
Previously=2C someone pointed out here that Wonderfil seems to be a re-pac
kaging of another product that is available under other labels.
The spray on Filler selection for the fiberglass would seem to be key. The
re are lots of 'high fill' primers out there with various filling/sanding p
roperties. I was happy with mine for the most part but had some challenges
. When it was humid=2C the filler would 'cheese' when sanded and immediatl
y clog the sandpaper. Though I had a fully ventilated spray booth and fres
h air breathing eqipment=2C I found that I wanted full protection when sand
ing a week after spraying. Fumes came off the filler for a couple of weeks
and they weren't pleasant. In any case=2C filling and sanding the big par
ts is a lot of work.... or not.
On 5/31/2011 12:02 AM=2C John Gonzalez wrote:
A correction to this email=2C Wonderfil is not compatible with all products
. It would be best to stick with Loehle products if you are to use Wonderfi
l.
As for the cowling=2C those are not pinholes=2C those are craters. These ar
e better filled with a filler not simply primer IMO=2C even if the Loehle l
iterature shows Wonderfil as a method of filling these craters.
Date: Mon=2C 30 May 2011 16:20:00 -0400
From: Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top filling sealing
I used Lohle's Wonderfil product and liked it a lot.
What I did on my fiberglass (cowling=2C top=2C etc) is start with Wonderfil
. It goes on easy like a paste wax. You rub it in and wipe it off. It wo
uld seem to be compatible with anything you might put over it. And in fact
=2C is the easiest way to fill any pinholes you may have missed. Just rub
a little on to fill the hold and spray whatever you are spraying on top.
The paint soaks into the Wonderfill and you can move on. After the Wonderf
il=2C I used a 'high fill' primer product.
But when you get to the primer stage=2C it's a good time to make a decision
about paint. DIY or farm it out? What brand? I chose to use a Dupont hi
gh fill primer (1480S) that was specifically compatible with most Dupont fi
nishing products including the Imron Elite line I ended up using. Lohle ha
s a high fill primer product but I decided not to use it because I wasn't p
lanning to stay with the Lohle line of products.
If you are farming out your painting=2C you could leave the pinholes and pr
iming to your painter I would assume. They might even prefer it that way..
. but I don't really know.
Bill "found some hangar space at a hard surface airport for final assembly
and flight" Watson
I know this has been discussed before but what is the current thinking on a
material for filling and sealing the cabin top before application of prime
r.Please share your experiences with ease of use and finishing -thanks Jim
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
BTW, my QB fuel tanks came installed - but with bolts that were one size too long!
To compensate, there were 2 washers under each bolt head.
I thought this was a potential disaster waiting to happen. 10 years from now, someone
(me) pulls the tanks, sees the extra washer, and throws it away. Now the
bolts bottom out before coming tight.
Whether you choose to pull the QB stuff apart or not is your choice (I left my
gear mount alone) but do check everything.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341694#341694
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James McGrew" <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Failed Alternator |
Cjay,
I believe I purchased mine before Van's started selling Plane Power
alternators.
-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 6:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Failed Alternator
Jim,
Can't really tell from the picture, but it doesn't look like the plane power
alternator? I had insufficient voltage with my alternator from the start,
it was between 12.5 to 13.5 ,always causing me to conserve amps in flight.
Plane power kept directing me to do diagnostic tests, saying it was usually
a short or bad wiring somewhere else. Finally they took it back, checked it
out, said nothing was wrong, but replaced a couple things (not sure what)
and its been running great ever sense.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341676#341676
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Don't take apart anything that you don't have to. I didn't understand the comment
about removing the right fuel tank to install the stall warning. I didn't
have to for it or for a heated pitot.
You can leak test the fuel tanks with them installed.
You should think about your electrical distribution and the need for conduit runs
under the floor. This is a convenient place to run cable out of the way and
the wires can be pulled later. You can also consider insulating the floor at
the same time, though that is clearly optional.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341769#341769
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If you read the plans, the left(not right) fuel tank is called out to be
removed to install the stall warning. Otherwise you are trying to do a knee
scope with an endoscope designed for colonoscopy. Sure, you can avoid it,
but the scrapes you get will be worse than pulling the tank. Other than
being a fair number of screws and bolts, removal simply is not difficult,
and does mean you can leak check with soapy water all surfaces while
rotating tank to have tested area on top. It is not in the class of trying
to remove the gear weldments.
Kelly
Finish/FWF+never ending fiberglass hell
On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 1:25 PM, nukeflyboy wrote:
>
> Don't take apart anything that you don't have to. I didn't understand the
> comment about removing the right fuel tank to install the stall warning. I
> didn't have to for it or for a heated pitot.
> You can leak test the fuel tanks with them installed.
> You should think about your electrical distribution and the need for
> conduit runs under the floor. This is a convenient place to run cable out
> of the way and the wires can be pulled later. You can also consider
> insulating the floor at the same time, though that is clearly optional.
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341769#341769
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | built plane but how do I get it out? |
At least I had to remove my engine and the landing gear to get it out of my
basement.
No banners or news media at my house=2C tiny violins playing now!
=0A
RV10-List built plane but how do I get it out=0A
http://cid-cf8c9ba70acf9731.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=browse&resi
d=CF8C9BA70ACF9731!155&type=5&Bpub=SDX.Photos&Bsrc=Photomail&authke
y=AOZM3zJ4fc0%24=0A
From: rv10flyer(at)verizon.net
Subject: RV10-List: built plane but how do I get it out?
Date: Thu=2C 26 May 2011 14:24:16 -0700
Looks like he did a nice job on the plane.
----------
Reeves had a contractor dig out and remove part of his basement wall to ge
t the plane out of his basement.
http://photos.pennlive.com/patriot-news/2011/05/airplane_emerges_from_dan_r
eev_11.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
I was anticipating using an extension cable so the GPS receiver could be
placed near the top of the windscreen and the iPad on my knee in flight but
I have been unable to find an extension cable that works with the BadElf. Is
anyone using an extension cable that works and would mention where they
obtained it from?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I did not pull the floors. You can access the front ones through the lightening
holes under the seats, For the back ones I drilled a few holes at one end. I
used a big magnet, vacuum, and borescope - saw nothing. I then filled them with
Abesco FP200 fire proof foam. It is closed cell, won't burn, and gives a solid
feel to the floor. Pretty pink color matches the canopy (g). Only expands about
2x. Here is the manufacturer:
http://www.abesco.net/productus/products/fp200.php
The suggestion about conduit is important. Get as much conduit in the baggage floors
as you can.
John
--------
#40572 Painted and assembled. Panel almost ready.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341830#341830
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
you don't need a cable. It works just fine the way it is even in an airline
r from a window seat. An RV with all the plexiglass windows and some with a
fiberglass top (RV-10) gives a direct shot to the satelites. Since I'm sti
ll building my -10=2C my experiences have been in Cessnas. Usually have 5 m
eter accuracy.
From: ibspud(at)roadrunner.com
Subject: RV10-List: iPad/BadElf GPS
Date: Wed=2C 1 Jun 2011 20:23:13 -0700
I was anticipating using an extension cable so the GPS receiver could be pl
aced near the top of the windscreen and the iPad on my knee in flight but I
have been unable to find an extension cable that works with the BadElf. Is
anyone using an extension cable that works and would mention where they ob
tained it from?Albert GardnerN991RVYuma=2C AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
Dave, what wire/cable are you running under the front floor panels? It seems like
there isn't anything passing through that area and since I'm about to close
it up, I thought I'd ask. What about antennas? I was planning the transponder
antenna to go in the midline (under the tunnel) , not under the floor panels
of the pilot/right seater. Thanks.
nukeflyboy wrote:
> Don't take apart anything that you don't have to. I didn't understand the comment
about removing the right fuel tank to install the stall warning. I didn't
have to for it or for a heated pitot.
> You can leak test the fuel tanks with them installed.
> You should think about your electrical distribution and the need for conduit
runs under the floor. This is a convenient place to run cable out of the way
and the wires can be pulled later. You can also consider insulating the floor
at the same time, though that is clearly optional.
--------
David Halmos
RV-10 builder #41059
Empennage complete!
QB fuselage under construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341840#341840
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
David,
I couldn't recall which floor panels were installed with the QB and which ones
I did. You are correct - there is no need to run anything under the front floorboards.
I have run quite a bit under the rear seat pans and baggage floor.
My comm antennas are attached on the belly just aft of the rear wing spar with
the coax running forward just above the rear spar and then to the side panel
(see photo).
There is plenty of room to run wires along the sides starting forward and running
aft to the rear seat side panel. At this point my wires dive under the floor
and emerge aft of the baggage compartment at the battery.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - Need to start panel
Rest almost done
Breathing too much fiberglass dust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341901#341901
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/001reduced_169.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/008_2_reduced_202.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/007_2_reduced_432.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
David,
I couldn't recall which floor panels were installed with the QB and which ones
I did. You are correct - there is no need to run anything under the front floorboards.
I have run quite a bit under the rear seat pans and baggage floor.
My comm antennas are attached on the belly just aft of the rear wing spar with
the coax running forward just above the rear spar and then to the side panel
(see photo).
There is plenty of room to run wires along the sides starting forward and running
aft to the rear seat side panel. At this point my wires dive under the floor
and emerge aft of the baggage compartment at the battery.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - Need to start panel
Rest almost done
Breathing too much fiberglass dust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341900#341900
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/001reduced_169.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/008_2_reduced_202.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/007_2_reduced_432.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Nose Wheel Noise |
From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Does anyone else's nose wheel make noise when steering (left and right motion,
not rotary motion). I have greased it thru the zerk fitting and tried a few other
things which help, but only for a short time. Are others seeing this? Any
ideas how to fix? My next step is a full disassembly and re- grease it all
up.....
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Noise |
Hey Mike,
I would suspect the big washers that sit on top of the fork. Others have
said that when they wear in, the left right torq needs to be reset, so I
went ahead and polished the mating surfaces and greased them before
installing on Wes's plane and setting the torq -- haven't had any squeak but
still checked and reset torq after about a year of flying.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 10:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Nose Wheel Noise
>
>
> Does anyone else's nose wheel make noise when steering (left and right
> motion, not rotary motion). I have greased it thru the zerk fitting and
> tried a few other things which help, but only for a short time. Are
> others seeing this? Any ideas how to fix? My next step is a full
> disassembly and re- grease it all up.....
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
Subject: | fuel pressure sender VDO360003 |
Has any one had one of these fail? usual install is with GRT EIS 6000.
When it fails, does it sense zero for high scale? mine has become flaky
with a few occasions of slightly high pressure followed by a duration of
flight normal range. I have the replacement in the spare parts box in
the baggage area but waiting to install. Total time is 429.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003 |
From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I am at home and can't confirm the part number, but I recently replaced my fuel
pressure sender for the second time after about 370 hours. The first one started
acting flaky at about 170 hours. Both times the symptoms were occasional spikes
of very high fuel pressure. GRT tells me this is common and sent me a replacement
right away, both times. Changing the sender takes about five minutes
and does not require "breaking" any fuel lines if installed using the stock
Van's manifold.
I don't remember the cost, but seem to remember it was in the $40 range. Maybe
less.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341996#341996
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
Subject: | Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003 |
Sounds like mine; we will see how long it goes. The part number is available
online for about $29 shipped. It is a German part distributed in USA by JEGS
a car "extras" site.
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmaib(at)me.com>
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003
>
> I am at home and can't confirm the part number, but I recently replaced my
> fuel pressure sender for the second time after about 370 hours. The first
> one started acting flaky at about 170 hours. Both times the symptoms were
> occasional spikes of very high fuel pressure. GRT tells me this is common
> and sent me a replacement right away, both times. Changing the sender
> takes about five minutes and does not require "breaking" any fuel lines if
> installed using the stock Van's manifold.
> I don't remember the cost, but seem to remember it was in the $40 range.
> Maybe less.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341996#341996
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
Subject: | Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003 |
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-360003/ also.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003
>
> Sounds like mine; we will see how long it goes. The part number is
> available online for about $29 shipped. It is a German part distributed in
> USA by JEGS a car "extras" site.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dmaib(at)me.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:07 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: fuel pressure sender VDO360003
>
>
>>
>> I am at home and can't confirm the part number, but I recently replaced
>> my fuel pressure sender for the second time after about 370 hours. The
>> first one started acting flaky at about 170 hours. Both times the
>> symptoms were occasional spikes of very high fuel pressure. GRT tells me
>> this is common and sent me a replacement right away, both times. Changing
>> the sender takes about five minutes and does not require "breaking" any
>> fuel lines if installed using the stock Van's manifold.
>> I don't remember the cost, but seem to remember it was in the $40 range.
>> Maybe less.
>>
>> --------
>> David Maib
>> RV-10 #40559
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341996#341996
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick Build fuselage (landing gear fittings) |
From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
Dave, Thanks for the pictures. It's always nice to get the visual! Today, it was
front floors but the baggage/rear floors are around the corner. I'm excited
to get to the conduit. Thanks again, David
--------
David Halmos
RV-10 builder #41059
Empennage complete!
QB fuselage under construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=342019#342019
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Foreflight users on the iPad2 |
I'm checking out a 30 trial offer of Mobile HD from Foreflight on my
iPad2 and I have a problem that might prevent me from going paperless
for VFR flights. I can't access the sectional chart info that is
printed on the borders - MOA floor/ceiling hours of operation and all
that valuable stuff. Are you paid subscribers able to see that info
while flying? How about orientation of the inflight moving map for
either VFR of enroute IFR (low)? Can you select "track up" instead of
"north up"? I can't find a way to do that on my iPad2 and I aways fly
the Garmin with "track up". Thank you for any help might be able to
give.
Paul Hahn
RV-10 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | GRT EIS fuel pressure sender - "better" |
From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Before I was even flying and while I bought my stuff, I had asked GRT if wha
t I was buying was the best I can do on stuff. They said that many Lancair f
olks buy this fuel pressure sender instead of the standard one they supply.
Knowing that most Lancair builders don't care about $10 or $20 upcharges, a
s I don't either, if it gives better quality, I purchased this sender. It's
been flawless for 725+ hours. The oil pressure sender is their standard one
and has also been flawless.
You might want to just get the better sender if you have problems. See atta
ched:
P/n: 2000132
Model: MSP-300-100-P-4-A-1