RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ig
June 22, 2011 - July 11, 2011
I complained some more, and they said, "Okay, but we'll charge shipping and handling
on the other parts." I said fine.
They charged me $8 S&H for the other parts. These were so small and light that
they had been stuffed into the battery box- it really didn't cost them anything
more to ship them. Not a lot of money, just the principle.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343715#343715
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
Tim makes a good point to ask about shipping costs.It costs a lot to ship t
he stuff we use-ask about crating and shipping a canopy frame from Oregon t
o California-more than the cost of the frame,same with a canopy from Todds
in Florida .I for one have found aircraft spruce invaluable with my various
projects there huge inventory of parts shipped efficiently for the most pa
rt and there catalog is an excellent reference and they have virtually ever
ything .Nothing in my world is perfect but ACS has been a real asset for me
.Also ACS has no minimum order and will ship us mail.Very efficient when yo
u need two dollars worth of nuts and bolts.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Turner <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Sent: Tue, Jun 21, 2011 8:31 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware
A few years ago I ordered an aircraft battery, plus about 8 oz of small par
ts,
rom ACS. The ACS catalog said "Free shipping on batteries".
When I got it, there was a $25 shipping charge. When I complained, they sai
d
You didn't SPECIFY that you wanted free shipping". Duh.
I complained some more, and they said, "Okay, but we'll charge shipping and
andling on the other parts." I said fine.
They charged me $8 S&H for the other parts. These were so small and light t
hat
hey had been stuffed into the battery box- it really didn't cost them anyth
ing
ore to ship them. Not a lot of money, just the principle.
Bob
--------
ob Turner
V-10 QB
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343715#343715
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Byron,
Have you input the settings from the manual?
If you don't have the problem expressed by recapen, then if you have an IO-540
the settings are in the manual.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343743#343743
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info |
| From: | "Byron" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
Got it.
Just downloaded updated manual and now the tables are included.
Thanks for the reply,
Byron
------Original Message------
From: orchidman
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AFS Engine Monitor - % Power info
Sent: Jun 22, 2011 7:29 AM
Byron,
Have you input the settings from the manual?
If you don't have the problem expressed by recapen, then if you have an IO-540
the settings are in the manual.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343743#343743
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Install time for safety trim |
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)me.com> |
I am having safety trim installed and my avionics man never did this one before.
How long should it take. I have victory grips and a toggle switch to control
the copilot activation. Robert N661G 300Hrs.
Robert Brunkenhoefer
Sent from my Apple iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Install time for safety trim |
| From: | "Byron" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
I did mine in around 2 hours including mounting board and switch- but I was replacing
another trim relay board so all the wires were there and I had excellent
wire schematics from the panel builder (Stein). As Tim mentioned there are lots
of variations in design and build. Running new wires etc would lengthen the
operation significantly.
Byron
N253RV - Phase One
------Original Message------
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Install time for safety trim
Sent: Jun 22, 2011 8:56 AM
I am having safety trim installed and my avionics man never did this one before.
How long should it take. I have victory grips and a toggle switch to control
the copilot activation. Robert N661G 300Hrs.
Robert Brunkenhoefer
Sent from my Apple iPad
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | East of Mississippi |
After leaving OSH the wife and I plan on flying all the states east of the
Mississippi river to complete the lower 48. Will be stopping over in NYC for
5 or 6 days and then flying south. I'd like to fly the Hudson River Corridor
so I thought that leaving the plane for those days at Westchester County
(HPN) or Teterboro (TEB). Has anyone landed at either of those two or flown
the corridor? Looks like fun. Took the FAA on-line driving course for NY and
Washington SFRA and have placard with "Don't Shoot" in large letters to hold
up to the window. Tim's excursions have motivated me to head off into what
we in the Mountain States called "Babylon".
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ (not a mountain state)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Install time for safety trim |
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com> |
Thank you for the input. Robert
On Jun 22, 2011, at 11:54 AM, Byron wrote:
>
> I did mine in around 2 hours including mounting board and switch- but I was replacing
another trim relay board so all the wires were there and I had excellent
wire schematics from the panel builder (Stein). As Tim mentioned there are
lots of variations in design and build. Running new wires etc would lengthen
the operation significantly.
>
> Byron
> N253RV - Phase One
> ------Original Message------
> From: Robert Brunkenhoefer
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Install time for safety trim
> Sent: Jun 22, 2011 8:56 AM
>
>
> I am having safety trim installed and my avionics man never did this one before.
How long should it take. I have victory grips and a toggle switch to control
the copilot activation. Robert N661G 300Hrs.
>
> Robert Brunkenhoefer
> Sent from my Apple iPad
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: East of Mississippi |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
CDW will be cheaper for overnight fees, although there is a landing fee
which the town will bill you a month or two down the road. If you like
smaller airports, Lincoln Park is also close by...don't know about their
fees, but parking space is relatively limited, so call ahead. NYC terminal
chart is essential.
On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 11:11 AM, Albert Gardner wro
te:
> *After leaving OSH the wife and I plan on flying all the states east of t
he Mississippi river to complete the lower 48. Will be stopping over in NYC
for 5 or 6 days and then flying south. I=92d like to fly the Hudson River
Corridor so I thought that leaving the plane for those days at Westchester
County (HPN) or Teterboro (TEB). Has anyone landed at either of those two o
r flown the corridor? Looks like fun. Took the FAA on-line driving course f
or NY and Washington SFRA and have placard with =93Don=92t Shoot=94 in larg
e letters to hold up to the window. Tim=92s excursions have motivated me to
head off into what we in the Mountain States called =93Babylon=94.*
>
> *Albert Gardner*
>
> *N991RV*
>
> *Yuma, AZ (not a mountain state)*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: East of Mississippi |
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ZXIKTjk5MVJWCll1bWEsIEFaIChub3QgYSBtb3VudGFpbiBzdGF0ZSkKIAogCgo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Just a minor point: Tim, you say "the theory is, the air
coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
cowl". It doesn't work that way. You have to decrease the pressure at the outlet,
increasing the differential pressure. It is differential pressure that drives
the flow. Think of it this way - if the pressure was the same top and bottom
there would be no driving force, no flow.
So whatever it is that you are constructing, it needs to increase the delta P if
you want more cooling flow.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - Need to start panel
Rest almost done
Breathing too much fiberglass dust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343813#343813
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
Dave I think you miss read what Tim said. The problem is that the hole is
there now, with no fairing, and thus there might be an increase in pressure
in the lower cowl at higher angles of attack. It is my understanding that
he is trying to build a fairing that will redirect the airflow and thus
decrease the pressure in the lower cowl. I tried the same thing by putting
a deflector on the back of the lower cowl. I saw no improvement so I took
it off. I can't wait to see if Tim has any success with putting a fairing
on the opening. During hot summer climbs I need all the cooling I can get.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Just a minor point: Tim, you say "the theory is, the air
coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of
attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower
cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower
cowl". It doesn't work that way. You have to decrease the pressure at the
outlet, increasing the differential pressure. It is differential pressure
that drives the flow. Think of it this way - if the pressure was the same
top and bottom there would be no driving force, no flow.
So whatever it is that you are constructing, it needs to increase the delta
P if you want more cooling flow.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - Need to start panel
Rest almost done
Breathing too much fiberglass dust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343813#343813
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
Ok I guess I will step in here. I use to own a Cardinal and heat issues and
drag issues on the 1968 cardinal version was very normal. The lower cowl
has a very large opening on the back edge. Thus causing a very large ram
air affect adding to the pressure in the lower cowl. Thus lowering the
differential pressure. Thus poor cooling and
Increased drag. The fix was a large fairing that was attached to the cowl
to close up the hole, a aero dynamic air exit, thus majorly lowering the
lower cowl pressure and increasing the differential pressure. And it added
5-7 knots to the cruise speed.
Looking at how tight the RV-10 cowl is, if I was a betting man. I think
working on enlarging the air exit area, and somehow making sure the slot
where the gear leg resides preventing any air from increasing the lower cowl
pressure from ram air. Reshaping the lower firewall with a fairing, to cut
the friction of the air exiting the cowl and helping the air make the 90
degree to go out the bottom cowl exit.
I am not sure about how affective the slots I have seen people installed in
the lower center portion are either . Maybe more slots are needed. Only
problem is the slots also I suspect are not that affective due to the high
speed air rushing over them building a boundary layer, and causing a
restriction to the air trying to exit out the slot them self's.
One more Cardinal trick that really worked well to assist in cylinder
cooling was to increase the distance between the aft cylinder fins and the
aft baffling. We would insert small strips of 1/8 to 3/16 pieces of
Baffling material between the cylinders and the aft baffling material
opening that distance just a bit and it really made a very large difference
in cylinder temps
Just a few thoughts.
Anyone want to chime in on this.
I am going to have this same discussion with engineer friend and see what
his thoughts are about the best way to increase the differential pressure.
Between the top and bottom of the cowl.
John Cumins
40864 Dimpling wing skins SB Wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Dave I think you miss read what Tim said. The problem is that the hole is
there now, with no fairing, and thus there might be an increase in pressure
in the lower cowl at higher angles of attack. It is my understanding that
he is trying to build a fairing that will redirect the airflow and thus
decrease the pressure in the lower cowl. I tried the same thing by putting
a deflector on the back of the lower cowl. I saw no improvement so I took
it off. I can't wait to see if Tim has any success with putting a fairing
on the opening. During hot summer climbs I need all the cooling I can get.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Just a minor point: Tim, you say "the theory is, the air coming in will hit
the gear leg especially at higher angles of attack, and flow into that hole,
adding pressure to the lower cowl, decreasing the differential between the
upper and lower cowl". It doesn't work that way. You have to decrease the
pressure at the outlet, increasing the differential pressure. It is
differential pressure that drives the flow. Think of it this way - if the
pressure was the same top and bottom there would be no driving force, no
flow.
So whatever it is that you are constructing, it needs to increase the delta
P if you want more cooling flow.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - Need to start panel
Rest almost done
Breathing too much fiberglass dust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343813#343813
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Main gear weldment too small |
I just posted on VAF that last night after another 6 hours of grinding=2C s
anding etc. I was able to insert my gear legs..............after some discu
ssion with Vans=2C I really could never determine wether the housing had no
t been completly honed as appropriate or the many years my kit had been sit
ting had contributed significantly to the problem.....................consi
dering Vans has not had many of these issues and we have not seen it on Mat
ronics or VAF as an issue I think the years of the corrosion were more the
problem than the design or product quality................so its fixed and
my baby stood on her own last night for the first time!!
Of course we had heat health warnings here yesterday and I awoke this morni
ng wondering if I had hallucinated about getting the gear on at 11pm last n
ight so on my way to the office I drove by the hangar to verify I was remem
bering the prior evening accurately and sure enough=2C there she stood!
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Main gear weldment too small
> From: woxof(at)aol.com
> Date: Mon=2C 20 Jun 2011 23:26:14 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Put mine in today with very little trouble. Much easier than I anticipate
d actually. I did find that the hole in the leg top was slightly smaller t
han the specified drill bit so I predrilled it on the drill press first. Th
at made it much easier to final drill the receiver.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa=2C AZ
> Emp completed=2C QB wings completed=2C legacy build fuse in mostly done
=2C finishing kit in progress.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343620#343620
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
You are right - I misread what Tim is trying to do. I suspect that the gear can
flex quite a bit so you need to account for it. Have you thought of using some
kind of rubber or soft material? It would have to be stiff enough to withstand
the air pressure without deflecting but would allow the gear leg impact
without damaging anything. Something like those thick silicone gaskets with a
slit in it for gear movement. It could stay in place even when removing the
lower cowl and could be glued on the inside of the cowl.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - Need to start panel
Rest almost done
Breathing too much fiberglass dust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343839#343839
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Chiming in just for the thrill of mixing it up. The lower cowl is an
area of High Pressure in the region of laminar flow. The Upper deck has
lower pressure flowing over it to the windshield where everything can
break loose. Given Tim's desire to reduce problems inherent with the
STOCK Vans nose gear leg. Louvers in the lower cowl do not assist the
Delta T/Delta P equation. High Pressure in the top deck. Lower
pressure and need for enhanced outflow in the lower deck. The firewall,
assorted added obstructions and the gear leg work against the efficient
flow of High pressure air over the cooling fins and an effective
extraction of heat and energy laden airflow. Correct sizing of the High
pressure deck, along with well designed flow characteristics of the High
Pressure deck lend themselves to caressing the airflow out of the
stagnant lower deck and efficiently into the slipstream of the lower
cowl.
LoPresti makes a living selling the concept of changing the amount of
airflow out of the lower deck (Cowl Flaps) and into the slipstream.
There is a whole body of data from Deems, Robin and others on the use of
James plenums and dealing with airflow and oil temp control. Is there
someone who can quantifiably support more louvers in the high pressure
area aid additional extraction of air coming from the High Pressure
Deck?
Showplanes is said to be working on an improved cowl. Maybe OSH '11 is
the year to keep a watchful eye open.
The Cardinal baffling idea was used by both Cirrus and GAMI to assist
Continental engines in those aft cylinders. It increase high pressure
flow into the lower pressure chamber. That chamber has high pressure
laminar flow waiting for more louvers to mix up the dynamic flow. Maybe
Kelly can chime in from Arizona. I am an advocate of a high pressure
chamber designed specifically for enhanced flow which has individual
cylinder fins mounted to direct the need flow over the exhaust valve and
cooling fins of each cylinder. Those who have used manometers might
understand my desire. More louvers, too simple to understand but
popular no less.
John - OSH '11
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Ok I guess I will step in here. I use to own a Cardinal and heat issues
and
drag issues on the 1968 cardinal version was very normal. The lower
cowl
has a very large opening on the back edge. Thus causing a very large
ram
air affect adding to the pressure in the lower cowl. Thus lowering the
differential pressure. Thus poor cooling and
Increased drag. The fix was a large fairing that was attached to the
cowl
to close up the hole, a aero dynamic air exit, thus majorly lowering the
lower cowl pressure and increasing the differential pressure. And it
added
5-7 knots to the cruise speed.
Looking at how tight the RV-10 cowl is, if I was a betting man. I think
working on enlarging the air exit area, and somehow making sure the slot
where the gear leg resides preventing any air from increasing the lower
cowl
pressure from ram air. Reshaping the lower firewall with a fairing, to
cut
the friction of the air exiting the cowl and helping the air make the 90
degree to go out the bottom cowl exit.
I am not sure about how affective the slots I have seen people installed
in
the lower center portion are either . Maybe more slots are needed.
Only
problem is the slots also I suspect are not that affective due to the
high
speed air rushing over them building a boundary layer, and causing a
restriction to the air trying to exit out the slot them self's.
One more Cardinal trick that really worked well to assist in cylinder
cooling was to increase the distance between the aft cylinder fins and
the
aft baffling. We would insert small strips of 1/8 to 3/16 pieces of
Baffling material between the cylinders and the aft baffling material
opening that distance just a bit and it really made a very large
difference
in cylinder temps
Just a few thoughts.
Anyone want to chime in on this.
I am going to have this same discussion with engineer friend and see
what
his thoughts are about the best way to increase the differential
pressure.
Between the top and bottom of the cowl.
John Cumins
40864 Dimpling wing skins SB Wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Dave I think you miss read what Tim said. The problem is that the hole
is
there now, with no fairing, and thus there might be an increase in
pressure
in the lower cowl at higher angles of attack. It is my understanding
that
he is trying to build a fairing that will redirect the airflow and thus
decrease the pressure in the lower cowl. I tried the same thing by
putting
a deflector on the back of the lower cowl. I saw no improvement so I
took
it off. I can't wait to see if Tim has any success with putting a
fairing
on the opening. During hot summer climbs I need all the cooling I can
get.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Just a minor point: Tim, you say "the theory is, the air coming in will
hit
the gear leg especially at higher angles of attack, and flow into that
hole,
adding pressure to the lower cowl, decreasing the differential between
the
upper and lower cowl". It doesn't work that way. You have to decrease
the
pressure at the outlet, increasing the differential pressure. It is
differential pressure that drives the flow. Think of it this way - if
the
pressure was the same top and bottom there would be no driving force, no
flow.
So whatever it is that you are constructing, it needs to increase the
delta
P if you want more cooling flow.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - Need to start panel
Rest almost done
Breathing too much fiberglass dust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343813#343813
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Main gear weldment too small |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Myron, any ideas on the best routing on "WN" to get from the west coast
to OSH '11? Last year was PDX-LAS-MKE. Return was MDW-RNO-PDX after 32
cancellations thru MDW. Would love to thank you for Copperstate
Barbeques of the past (08/09/10) and discuss that gear weldment issue.
YES, I will provide cold beer to Camp Swampy even without Gary and Bob+
wives.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and
Mike Lefever
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 6:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Main gear weldment too small
I just posted on VAF that last night after another 6 hours of grinding,
sanding etc. I was able to insert my gear legs..............after some
discussion with Vans, I really could never determine wether the housing
had not been completly honed as appropriate or the many years my kit had
been sitting had contributed significantly to the
problem.....................considering Vans has not had many of these
issues and we have not seen it on Matronics or VAF as an issue I think
the years of the corrosion were more the problem than the design or
product quality................so its fixed and my baby stood on her own
last night for the first time!!
Of course we had heat health warnings here yesterday and I awoke this
morning wondering if I had hallucinated about getting the gear on at
11pm last night so on my way to the office I drove by the hangar to
verify I was remembering the prior evening accurately and sure enough,
there she stood!
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Main gear weldment too small
> From: woxof(at)aol.com
> Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 23:26:14 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Put mine in today with very little trouble. Much easier than I
anticipated actually. I did find that the hole in the leg top was
slightly smaller than the specified drill bit so I predrilled it on the
drill press first. That made it much easier to final drill the receiver.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done,
finishing kit in progress.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343620#343620
>
>
>========================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
As a -10 (and 8A) James cowl & plenum owner (read: disgruntled) I can tell
you that the single best modification we made for reducing high CHT's and
Oil Temps was the addition of 4 louvers on the underside of the cowl. Not
ideal but by that point we were willing to try anything. The temps are all
manageable now just passing 225 hours TTSN.
I can say with little hesitation that the stock Vans cowl with standard
baffling is currently the proven best option for proper cooling, running
LOP etc... I have been in relatively close contact with the nice folks at
Showplanes. They are getting closer but not at production stage yet. Am I
going to be a guinea pig twice? Hard to know but my long range plans are
to replace the James cowl at some point. (yes John I remember you want it
for testing...)
Unless you are one that enjoys severe migraines and tinkering vs. flying,
consider using stock cowl till there is a proven alternative.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 7:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Chiming in just for the thrill of mixing it up. The lower cowl is an
area of High Pressure in the region of laminar flow. The Upper deck has
lower pressure flowing over it to the windshield where everything can
break loose. Given Tim's desire to reduce problems inherent with the
STOCK Vans nose gear leg. Louvers in the lower cowl do not assist the
Delta T/Delta P equation. High Pressure in the top deck. Lower
pressure and need for enhanced outflow in the lower deck. The firewall,
assorted added obstructions and the gear leg work against the efficient
flow of High pressure air over the cooling fins and an effective
extraction of heat and energy laden airflow. Correct sizing of the High
pressure deck, along with well designed flow characteristics of the High
Pressure deck lend themselves to caressing the airflow out of the
stagnant lower deck and efficiently into the slipstream of the lower
cowl.
LoPresti makes a living selling the concept of changing the amount of
airflow out of the lower deck (Cowl Flaps) and into the slipstream.
There is a whole body of data from Deems, Robin and others on the use of
James plenums and dealing with airflow and oil temp control. Is there
someone who can quantifiably support more louvers in the high pressure
area aid additional extraction of air coming from the High Pressure
Deck?
Showplanes is said to be working on an improved cowl. Maybe OSH '11 is
the year to keep a watchful eye open.
The Cardinal baffling idea was used by both Cirrus and GAMI to assist
Continental engines in those aft cylinders. It increase high pressure
flow into the lower pressure chamber. That chamber has high pressure
laminar flow waiting for more louvers to mix up the dynamic flow. Maybe
Kelly can chime in from Arizona. I am an advocate of a high pressure
chamber designed specifically for enhanced flow which has individual
cylinder fins mounted to direct the need flow over the exhaust valve and
cooling fins of each cylinder. Those who have used manometers might
understand my desire. More louvers, too simple to understand but
popular no less.
John - OSH '11
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Ok I guess I will step in here. I use to own a Cardinal and heat issues
and
drag issues on the 1968 cardinal version was very normal. The lower
cowl
has a very large opening on the back edge. Thus causing a very large
ram
air affect adding to the pressure in the lower cowl. Thus lowering the
differential pressure. Thus poor cooling and
Increased drag. The fix was a large fairing that was attached to the
cowl
to close up the hole, a aero dynamic air exit, thus majorly lowering the
lower cowl pressure and increasing the differential pressure. And it
added
5-7 knots to the cruise speed.
Looking at how tight the RV-10 cowl is, if I was a betting man. I think
working on enlarging the air exit area, and somehow making sure the slot
where the gear leg resides preventing any air from increasing the lower
cowl
pressure from ram air. Reshaping the lower firewall with a fairing, to
cut
the friction of the air exiting the cowl and helping the air make the 90
degree to go out the bottom cowl exit.
I am not sure about how affective the slots I have seen people installed
in
the lower center portion are either . Maybe more slots are needed.
Only
problem is the slots also I suspect are not that affective due to the
high
speed air rushing over them building a boundary layer, and causing a
restriction to the air trying to exit out the slot them self's.
One more Cardinal trick that really worked well to assist in cylinder
cooling was to increase the distance between the aft cylinder fins and
the
aft baffling. We would insert small strips of 1/8 to 3/16 pieces of
Baffling material between the cylinders and the aft baffling material
opening that distance just a bit and it really made a very large
difference
in cylinder temps
Just a few thoughts.
Anyone want to chime in on this.
I am going to have this same discussion with engineer friend and see
what
his thoughts are about the best way to increase the differential
pressure.
Between the top and bottom of the cowl.
John Cumins
40864 Dimpling wing skins SB Wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Dave I think you miss read what Tim said. The problem is that the hole
is
there now, with no fairing, and thus there might be an increase in
pressure
in the lower cowl at higher angles of attack. It is my understanding
that
he is trying to build a fairing that will redirect the airflow and thus
decrease the pressure in the lower cowl. I tried the same thing by
putting
a deflector on the back of the lower cowl. I saw no improvement so I
took
it off. I can't wait to see if Tim has any success with putting a
fairing
on the opening. During hot summer climbs I need all the cooling I can
get.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?
Just a minor point: Tim, you say "the theory is, the air coming in will
hit
the gear leg especially at higher angles of attack, and flow into that
hole,
adding pressure to the lower cowl, decreasing the differential between
the
upper and lower cowl". It doesn't work that way. You have to decrease
the
pressure at the outlet, increasing the differential pressure. It is
differential pressure that drives the flow. Think of it this way - if
the
pressure was the same top and bottom there would be no driving force, no
flow.
So whatever it is that you are constructing, it needs to increase the
delta
P if you want more cooling flow.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - Need to start panel
Rest almost done
Breathing too much fiberglass dust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343813#343813
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
I have had to lengthen the slot on the lower cowl for the gear leg to allow
the lower cowl to be removed. I have an Aerocomposits 3 blade prop and the
lower cowl has to drop straight down in order to clear the spinner when
removing it. Even with the longer slot forward of the gear leg I still pull
down the tail to allow the front gear to drop down as far as possible.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
I suffered from hi oil temps and adding a second oil cooler among other
things solved most of the problem, but the final solution was to add an
opening on each side under the oil coolers on the bottom cowl to allow more
exit air. Temp in Yuma yesterday was 113, temp in hell was 112, so yes, Yuma
is hotter than hell.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
As a -10 (and 8A) James cowl & plenum owner (read: disgruntled) I can tell
you that the single best modification we made for reducing high CHT's and
Oil Temps was the addition of 4 louvers on the underside of the cowl. Not
ideal but by that point we were willing to try anything. The temps are all
manageable now just passing 225 hours TTSN.
I can say with little hesitation that the stock Vans cowl with standard
baffling is currently the proven best option for proper cooling, running
LOP etc... I have been in relatively close contact with the nice folks at
Showplanes. They are getting closer but not at production stage yet. Am I
going to be a guinea pig twice? Hard to know but my long range plans are
to replace the James cowl at some point. (yes John I remember you want it
for testing...)
Unless you are one that enjoys severe migraines and tinkering vs. flying,
consider using stock cowl till there is a proven alternative.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Ground hull insurance which includes trailer transport with |
no distance exclusion, EAA
Here is the qoute for this annual policy that covers the above. I expect th
e painting to take six weeks.
I believe the plane will be taxi ing in November or December.
SO for this policy for the nexe five to six months=2C the lovely insurance
company through EAA want $1=2C860.00
WOW!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
We need to press one of those little cameras into action and record the amount
of movement on the front gear leg.
Dave Hertner
Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Need PDF of Section 44 - wing assembly |
I left my plans at the airport. Can someone send me or point to a copy
please?
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing Construction - How to? |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I bounced mine and figured 2.5 inches was minimum for not chipping paint on the
fairings. Mine was built strictly for lower cowl removal.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 23, 2011, at 10:31, David Hertner wrote:
>
> We need to press one of those little cameras into action and record the amount
of movement on the front gear leg.
>
> Dave Hertner
>
> Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | James Cowls-update |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Those of you with Sam James cowls will be very interested to read the
article by Amy Laboda on changes that Sam has made and they are now testing.
Appears in the August issue of KitPlanes which showed up in my mailbox
today. It does include large inlet rings and a revised plenum.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
I've got a follow-up surprise on this shipping thing....
I didn't contact ACS at all. I have been too busy to
even think about it. But just now, I got an email from
Jim Irwin himself, letting me know that he checked into
my shipping costs and had info.
Apparently many products do have prompts that appear
in shipping, to let them notify the customer before they
would package in a way that costs us lots of money.
Turns out the prompts on these fiberglass items were
missing...otherwise they'd have called me first.
So, they calculated what my shipping would have been,
had it not shipped oversize, and only shipped standard,
and they credited me back the difference....all without
me even contacting them. They somehow saw my post
here, and wanted to reach out and make it right.
I think they did a fantastic job, so I'm pretty pleased.
I've been buying from them for many years, even before
I started building a plane, and they're one of the first
places I check for aircraft things, because even though
shipping is from Georgia at the closest, things go
out the door quick and arrive quick. So, I'm glad that
not only have they been good in the past, but they
made this "bad" .... good.
Thanks Jim, if you're reading this, you done well.
Thought y'all might want to see that, because when a
company does that, it shows some integrity.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Cowls-update |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Per one member's request, I now have the article scanned into a PDF file for
anyone else that wants to see it. 2.5MB file in color.
On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 2:19 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Those of you with Sam James cowls will be very interested to read the
> article by Amy Laboda on changes that Sam has made and they are now testing.
> Appears in the August issue of KitPlanes which showed up in my mailbox
> today. It does include large inlet rings and a revised plenum.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | James Cowls-update |
Please send the link - I have a SJ cowl on my 6A and really love it!
Hearing the trials and tribulations of the -10 crowd makes me think twice
about putting it on the -10 I'm contemplating!
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: James Cowls-update
Per one member's request, I now have the article scanned into a PDF file for
anyone else that wants to see it. 2.5MB file in color.
On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 2:19 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
Those of you with Sam James cowls will be very interested to read the
article by Amy Laboda on changes that Sam has made and they are now testing.
Appears in the August issue of KitPlanes which showed up in my mailbox
today. It does include large inlet rings and a revised plenum.
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Cowls-update |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I would like to see it too. I am still tweaking the Plenum to work the cooling
issues. That is, I would be if I ever get it back from paint. Week 10 and counting...
ugh!
Eric Kallio
N518RV phase 1 complete, in paint
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343950#343950
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need PDF of Section 44 - wing assembly |
Thanks to everyone who responded. I've got what I needed.
Bill
On 6/23/2011 12:54 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> I left my plans at the airport. Can someone send me or point to a
> copy please?
>
> Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Me too!
Jim Irwin read my rant about the shipping cost of the "free shipping" battery,
sent me a private email apologizing, and credited my account with the shipping
I did pay.
I've always used ACS for their large inventory and convenience; this is now another
reason to use them!
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343957#343957
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Cowls-update |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I'll send it to you directly
On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 6:37 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> I would like to see it too. I am still tweaking the Plenum to work the
> cooling issues. That is, I would be if I ever get it back from paint. Week
> 10 and counting... ugh!
>
> Eric Kallio
> N518RV phase 1 complete, in paint
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343950#343950
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Main gear weldment too small |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
John,
We're not huge in MKE yet until the Airtran thing gets melded. I think going through
LAS like you did last year is the best bet for us.
Thanks for the kind words for the Cstate nest. Looking forward to a great turnout
this year.
Btw, knock on wood, but I didn't have any issues (yet) with the gear. Got her
up proud on her feet and then realized how much easier some remaining composite
work would be with her back on the dolly and took the legs back off for a while.
Cheers,
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343963#343963
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plugging holes in fuselage sides |
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
Hi Everyone,
I am wondering what everyone is doing to seal the two openings at the lower front
sides of the fuselage close to where the leading edge of the wing intersects
the fuselage.
Dave Hertner
Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plugging holes in fuselage sides |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I cut a block of wood to fit, then tacked down tar paper, then covered it with
a small piece of asphalt shingle.
Tim
Honestly, I filled the hole with clear silicone and cut it when cured to roughly
match the contour. It's not a real noticeable thing when done, but I'm sure
some folks agonize over it and try fancier things.
On Jun 24, 2011, at 9:00 AM, David Hertner wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am wondering what everyone is doing to seal the two openings at the lower front
sides of the fuselage close to where the leading edge of the wing intersects
the fuselage.
>
> Dave Hertner
>
> Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Plugging holes in fuselage sides |
I used Silicone.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Hertner
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2011 8:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Plugging holes in fuselage sides
Hi Everyone,
I am wondering what everyone is doing to seal the two openings at the lower front
sides of the fuselage close to where the leading edge of the wing intersects
the fuselage.
Dave Hertner
Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugging holes in fuselage sides |
nichts
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2011 7:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Plugging holes in fuselage sides
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am wondering what everyone is doing to seal the two openings at the
> lower front sides of the fuselage close to where the leading edge of the
> wing intersects the fuselage.
>
> Dave Hertner
>
> Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugging holes in fuselage sides |
Tim
North of the 49th we use duct tape for a more professional finish. Wood / shingles????
How dclass can you get.
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-06-24, at 8:24 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I cut a block of wood to fit, then tacked down tar paper, then covered it with
a small piece of asphalt shingle.
> Tim
>
> Honestly, I filled the hole with clear silicone and cut it when cured to roughly
match the contour. It's not a real noticeable thing when done, but I'm sure
some folks agonize over it and try fancier things.
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 24, 2011, at 9:00 AM, David Hertner wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> I am wondering what everyone is doing to seal the two openings at the lower
front sides of the fuselage close to where the leading edge of the wing intersects
the fuselage.
>>
>> Dave Hertner
>>
>> Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plugging holes in fuselage sides |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Proseal works well. Avoid RTV or anything with silicone because of paint
adhesion issues later.
Bob
On Fri, Jun 24, 2011 at 9:00 AM, David Hertner wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am wondering what everyone is doing to seal the two openings at the lower
> front sides of the fuselage close to where the leading edge of the wing
> intersects the fuselage.
>
> Dave Hertner
>
> Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugging holes in fuselage sides |
Everyone,
Thanks for all of the spirited answers. I like how
I can get good information and a good chuckle from
this list.
Dave Hertner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | A Kindred Spirit... |
A 20-year Project
A 42-foot schooner isn't a big project for a ship-building company. It's a different
matter if you're the one doing all the work. In the early 1990s, Dr. John
Vardiman decided to build one from scratch. It took over 20 years to complete.
What an great story of perseverance...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SN4kmlAxvGU&feature=player_embedded
I know just how he feels... :-)
Matt
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Rebuild - Post Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugging holes in fuselage sides |
Nada!
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jun 24, 2011, at 10:00 AM, David Hertner wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am wondering what everyone is doing to seal the two openings at
> the lower front sides of the fuselage close to where the leading
> edge of the wing intersects the fuselage.
>
> Dave Hertner
>
> Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on Rogers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | James Cowl-Kitplanes Article |
My wife Amy wrote about the latest mod we have made to our SJ cowl
and plenum setup. I have done some local and cross country flights
and are happy with the results.
My biggest problems before the new plenum and larger rings was I
could not do a quick turn in warm conditions that we have in FL.
without climbing out at a fast airspeed 140-150 kias with full power
and keep #5 and #6 CHT under 400f and oil temp under 220f.
After a stop with 100 OAT, we were able to climb at 130 kias and keep
the CHT's around 390f and the oil at 205f. At cruise at 8000-10,000'
ROP or LOP I could
keep CHT's 380-390f and oil temp at 195f, burning 16gal/hr ROP at 184
ktas and LOP at 11.5 gal/hr at 173 ktas.
As Amy stated, we have louvers on the bottom and sides of the cowl
and have opened up the bottom of the cowl for more exit area. It is
very important to seal around the plenum and the engine, and have a
smooth transition from the rings to the ramp for the baffles.
I have 1 slick mag and 1 EIS EI. I feel the EI is a must for running
LOP smoothly.
Sam is all about helping out if ya have a problem so give him a call;
and call or email me if ya have any questions. Blue Skys Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: James Cowl-Kitplanes Article |
For those who are seeing high CHTs, have you removed the air dams on #1 an
#2? Even in current weather only three of the six are between 360F and 380F
for a 100-105 kt climb. Picking up 115 kt climb will lower them to below
360F. One of the keys is to dial back the prop to 2200-2250 RPM; and run
"oversquare" if necessary. We usually climb at 500-800 fpm at 105 KIAS using
65% and 12-13 gph. Additional fuel flow does not seem to lower CHTs but
reduced rpm does. We routinely cruise 9000-13000 at 55% LOP with 150+ KTAS
and about 9 gph. At LOP the CHTs all drop to high 200s/low 300s and EGTs
drop to just below 1420F. I used standard cowl, standard baffling except
used the 1/8" red silicone instead of the 3/32" black Vans supplied. Also I
did not seal the airbox to the cowl and removed the air dams.
my 2 cents in Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry Marz" <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 9:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: James Cowl-Kitplanes Article
>
> My wife Amy wrote about the latest mod we have made to our SJ cowl and
> plenum setup. I have done some local and cross country flights and are
> happy with the results.
> My biggest problems before the new plenum and larger rings was I could
> not do a quick turn in warm conditions that we have in FL. without
> climbing out at a fast airspeed 140-150 kias with full power and keep #5
> and #6 CHT under 400f and oil temp under 220f.
> After a stop with 100 OAT, we were able to climb at 130 kias and keep the
> CHT's around 390f and the oil at 205f. At cruise at 8000-10,000' ROP or
> LOP I could
> keep CHT's 380-390f and oil temp at 195f, burning 16gal/hr ROP at 184
> ktas and LOP at 11.5 gal/hr at 173 ktas.
> As Amy stated, we have louvers on the bottom and sides of the cowl and
> have opened up the bottom of the cowl for more exit area. It is very
> important to seal around the plenum and the engine, and have a smooth
> transition from the rings to the ramp for the baffles.
> I have 1 slick mag and 1 EIS EI. I feel the EI is a must for running LOP
> smoothly.
> Sam is all about helping out if ya have a problem so give him a call; and
> call or email me if ya have any questions. Blue Skys Barry
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
they fixed this pictured damage overnight at the Paris Air Show.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Cowl-Kitplanes Article |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
My CHT's were also running high in Oklahoma. I trimmed my front cylinder blocking
plates as Tim Olson did, and my #1 cylinder that was running high has dropped
to 330 degrees (was running 380). I did notice that doing this caused my
#5 & 6 cylinder tempertures to rise. During the summer I climb out at 115kts
and power set at 23'/2300. This helped keep my CHTs in the 350 degree range.
At cruise running LOP all the CHTs are running 330-350 at 10000'.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344267#344267
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: James Cowl-Kitplanes Article |
Greg, you have the Van's cowl that was actually designed for the plane.
The James cowl has undersized inlet area so running LOP and cooling the
CHT/Oil is more difficult when one is choking the system through reduces
inlet area. Try sprinting with your mouth & one nostril closed = James
Cowl & Plenum.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of greghale
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 10:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: James Cowl-Kitplanes Article
My CHT's were also running high in Oklahoma. I trimmed my front cylinder
blocking plates as Tim Olson did, and my #1 cylinder that was running high
has dropped to 330 degrees (was running 380). I did notice that doing
this caused my #5 & 6 cylinder tempertures to rise. During the summer I
climb out at 115kts and power set at 23'/2300. This helped keep my CHTs
in the 350 degree range. At cruise running LOP all the CHTs are running
330-350 at 10000'.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344267#344267
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MP3 type Audio amplifier? |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
My Garmin 696 doesn't output enough power to hear the XM radio it in my headsets
very well. Is anyone using any type of audio amplifier to boost their mp3 player
or similar? Any recommendations on what to get, or avoid?
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
I am helping another RV owner with his cowl and he wants to install the Hartwell
H-5000 oil door fastener that he picked up at Sun 'N Fun. Looking at the Hartwell
spec sheet, it looks like these come in various combinations of door thickness
and skin thickness.
The one he gave me is .102/-.102 (stamped on trigger and latch tongue). This looks
like it would work on two flush surfaces instead of the door offset in the
Van's cowl. Do you just cut the lip where the fasteners go, or are others using
a different depth offset on the tongue?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344363#344363
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce Shipping - Always Beware |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I just had a similar experience with ACS and shipping. I ordered 4 pieces of piano
hinge and specifically asked if the 6 ft lengths were oversize. If they
were, I was will to have them cut down to 4 ft. The operator said standard shipping
would apply. Guess what, $42 for the hinge and $25 for the shipping!
What koolaid are these guys drinking? I'm in St. louis, next time I'll drive to
Wicks.
--------
Bill Peyton
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344407#344407
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
| Subject: | Fisher House RV-10 |
Paint is finally complete!
Somewhere during the (long) building process, we decided to give N52KS a li
ttle side mission to promote the Fisher House Foundation with the airplane.
For those not familiar, the Fisher House Foundation constructs the Fisher
Houses, which are a place to stay for family members while a loved one is
undergoing treatment at a neighboring military hospital or VA medical cente
r.
Paint is by Prestige Aircraft in Swanton, VT.
Look for us at Oshkosh, parked with the other Airventure Cup racers. (anyo
ne else racing?)
Cheers,
Tim Dawson-Townsend
N52KS #40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: James Cowl-Kitplanes Article |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I agree with Dave. I have the standard Vans engine cowl, but I cut back the air
dams and show good temps except a bit high on #6.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344411#344411
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tank sealant lifetime? |
| From: | Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com> |
I have a 3.5oz tube of tank sealant sitting in the back of my fridge, where
it has sat since I bought it about a year ago.
I'm now at the point where I need to glue the foam wedges into my trim tabs
with tank sealant. (Yeah, I'm a slow builder -- just had my first baby...)
I fear that the sealant may have gone bad, since it is supposed to only have
a 4 month lifetime. So I'm curious -- is there a way of telling if tank
sealant is still good? AKA, will it be obvious to me if it is unusable when
I try to mix it up, or will I never know until it unexpectedly releases
inside my plane on some future date?
Thanks!
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fisher House RV-10 |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Good for you guys..................mega kuddos.
Fisher House is a great charity and you are great too !
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344412#344412
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank sealant lifetime? |
if it=99s for the tank, buy a new batch if it=99s (aka
wedges) for anything else, 3 years and it still sticks to anything I
apply it to. You=99ll be fine.
Pascal
From: Chris Colohan
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 8:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tank sealant lifetime?
I have a 3.5oz tube of tank sealant sitting in the back of my fridge,
where it has sat since I bought it about a year ago.
I'm now at the point where I need to glue the foam wedges into my trim
tabs with tank sealant. (Yeah, I'm a slow builder -- just had my first
baby...)
I fear that the sealant may have gone bad, since it is supposed to only
have a 4 month lifetime. So I'm curious -- is there a way of telling if
tank sealant is still good? AKA, will it be obvious to me if it is
unusable when I try to mix it up, or will I never know until it
unexpectedly releases inside my plane on some future date?
Thanks!
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank sealant lifetime? |
| From: | Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com> |
Thank you!
Chris
On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 9:28 PM, Pascal wrote:
> if it=92s for the tank, buy a new batch if it=92s (aka wedges) for anyt
hing
> else, 3 years and it still sticks to anything I apply it to. You=92ll be
fine.
> Pascal
>
> *From:* Chris Colohan
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 28, 2011 8:55 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Tank sealant lifetime?
>
> I have a 3.5oz tube of tank sealant sitting in the back of my fridge, whe
re
> it has sat since I bought it about a year ago.
>
> I'm now at the point where I need to glue the foam wedges into my trim ta
bs
> with tank sealant. (Yeah, I'm a slow builder -- just had my first baby..
.)
>
> I fear that the sealant may have gone bad, since it is supposed to only
> have a 4 month lifetime. So I'm curious -- is there a way of telling if
> tank sealant is still good? AKA, will it be obvious to me if it is unusa
ble
> when I try to mix it up, or will I never know until it unexpectedly relea
ses
> inside my plane on some future date?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Chris
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
*
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank sealant lifetime? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
As long as it mixes well, it will be fine, especially for gluing stuff
like those wedges, rudder and elevator trailing edges.
On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Chris Colohan wrote:
> I have a 3.5oz tube of tank sealant sitting in the back of my fridge, where
> it has sat since I bought it about a year ago.
> I'm now at the point where I need to glue the foam wedges into my trim tabs
> with tank sealant. (Yeah, I'm a slow builder -- just had my first baby...)
> I fear that the sealant may have gone bad, since it is supposed to only have
> a 4 month lifetime. So I'm curious -- is there a way of telling if tank
> sealant is still good? AKA, will it be obvious to me if it is unusable when
> I try to mix it up, or will I never know until it unexpectedly releases
> inside my plane on some future date?
> Thanks!
> Chris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Stella" <Sstella(at)incisaledge.com> |
| Subject: | Fisher House RV-10 |
Wow Tim the plane came out great, can't wait to go flying in it.
Steve Stella
Fuselage #40654
521RV reserved
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 11:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fisher House RV-10
Paint is finally complete!
Somewhere during the (long) building process, we decided to give N52KS a
little side mission to promote the Fisher House Foundation with the
airplane. For those not familiar, the Fisher House Foundation constructs
the Fisher Houses, which are a place to stay for family members while a
loved one is undergoing treatment at a neighboring military hospital or VA
medical center.
Paint is by Prestige Aircraft in Swanton, VT.
Look for us at Oshkosh, parked with the other Airventure Cup racers.
(anyone else racing?)
Cheers,
Tim Dawson-Townsend
N52KS #40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
These fasteners are ultra-awesome. I believe that you are correct and that they
do come in different offsets. On my oil door, mine there is a slight offset of
about 1/8". You need the offset to secure the door to the cowl. You also need
to reinforce the outer side of the door to resist the high internal air pressure.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344464#344464
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
pic of inside of oil door
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344465#344465
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pc250015_859.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener |
Thanks Mike. I think the 1/8" offset would be about right ... but that's
not what he's got. Tonight he mentioned that others on the -8 are just
using a short piece of hinge as a fastener, and pulling the pin through the
firewall (the -8 has a baggage compartment/access door right at that area
which makes it easy to pull) -- so no fastener showing at all. I think I
can make that idea work.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 6:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener
>
> These fasteners are ultra-awesome. I believe that you are correct and that
> they do come in different offsets. On my oil door, mine there is a slight
> offset of about 1/8". You need the offset to secure the door to the cowl.
> You also need to reinforce the outer side of the door to resist the high
> internal air pressure.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '11
> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener |
Mine have an offset too. I purchased a 6 pack on ebay and have used them on
2 planes.
[image:
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Images/SJ_Cowl/100_2440.jpg]
[image:
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Images/SJ_Cowl/Cowl_Left.jpg]
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 3:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener
These fasteners are ultra-awesome. I believe that you are correct and that
they do come in different offsets. On my oil door, mine there is a slight
offset of about 1/8". You need the offset to secure the door to the cowl.
You also need to reinforce the outer side of the door to resist the high
internal air pressure.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344464#344464
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener |
Note: we crafted our own hidden hinge for both the forward baggage door and
oil door.
Robin
[image: Fwd top skin clean-up 003.jpg]
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 3:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartwell H-5000 oil door fastener
pic of inside of oil door
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344465#344465
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pc250015_859.jpg
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I ran into a couple "opportunities" at the hangar this evening that I'm
soliciting opinions while I research for solutions. The first issue is that
the rear support brace for the baffle and one of the fuel tubes want to
occupy the same space. Since the fuel injector fuel lines were installed at
Lycoming, I'm not quite sure how to proceed. I'm concerned that if I
attempt to bend the fuel line up, I may put a crease in the line. I'm not
sure if I should be concerned that with the other five cylinders are all
horizontal in the same plane, if this line is elevated to get over this
bracket. Another option I thought about was to cut a slot in the bracket
and isolate the fuel line with a grommet. I haven't referenced 43.13 yet to
see what guidance it may provide.
The next issue probably falls in the category of me doing something wrong or
not doing the obvious. What's the secret to get this baffle mounted without
severely bending it?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
25 days and counting..
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle advice |
If it were me, I'd mark the baffle where the tubing is, cut a 1/2
quarter size bite out of the bracket. Clean up the edges and re-install
the bracket. I'm not there yet, so don't know if I'll have the same
problem.
Linn
On 6/29/2011 8:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I ran into a couple "opportunities" at the hangar this evening that
> I'm soliciting opinions while I research for solutions. The first
> issue is that the rear support brace for the baffle and one of the
> fuel tubes want to occupy the same space. Since the fuel injector
> fuel lines were installed at Lycoming, I'm not quite sure how to
> proceed. I'm concerned that if I attempt to bend the fuel line up, I
> may put a crease in the line. I'm not sure if I should be concerned
> that with the other five cylinders are all horizontal in the same
> plane, if this line is elevated to get over this bracket. Another
> option I thought about was to cut a slot in the bracket and isolate
> the fuel line with a grommet. I haven't referenced 43.13 yet to see
> what guidance it may provide.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle advice |
Bob,
Your best guidance is Lyc SB 342E, page 25, a specific diagram of where
the lines are required to be, per AD 2008-14-07 Lycoming Engines
(formerly Textron Lycoming Division, AVCO Corporation): Amendment 39-15602.
I won't get into the debate as to whether it is a requirement for
experimentals.
Main concern with those lines is weakening the fitting joints at either
end and ensuring they are adequately supported so that they don't work
harden from vibration. You can gently bend in the middle, keeping
bending forces away from the ends as long as you keep large radius. I
wouldn't worry about elevation. The fuel is under 4-10 psi in those
lines, generally. I agree with Linn's advice, to first try to remove
enough of the baffle support to allow the line to remain in the location
Lycoming placed it.
Kelly
PS, I can email you the SB direct if you need it.
On 6/29/2011 5:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I ran into a couple opportunities at the hangar this evening that
> Im soliciting opinions while I research for solutions. The first
> issue is that the rear support brace for the baffle and one of the
> fuel tubes want to occupy the same space. Since the fuel injector fuel
> lines were installed at Lycoming, Im not quite sure how to proceed.
> Im concerned that if I attempt to bend the fuel line up, I may put a
> crease in the line. Im not sure if I should be concerned that with
> the other five cylinders are all horizontal in the same plane, if this
> line is elevated to get over this bracket. Another option I thought
> about was to cut a slot in the bracket and isolate the fuel line with
> a grommet. I havent referenced 43.13 yet to see what guidance it may
> provide.
>
> The next issue probably falls in the category of me doing something
> wrong or not doing the obvious. Whats the secret to get this baffle
> mounted without severely bending it?
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.
>
> 25 days and counting
>
> bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
Bob make a nice half round cut out in the bracket. I had to cut mine out for
my Ignition coil.
See link
http://cdn-3-service.phanfare.com/images/external/7068012_3161550_64301362_W
eb_3/0_0_c6e7e93ae7bc906cc3c993621baec8f6_1
Geoff Combs
President
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 8:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baffle advice
I ran into a couple "opportunities" at the hangar this evening that I'm
soliciting opinions while I research for solutions. The first issue is that
the rear support brace for the baffle and one of the fuel tubes want to
occupy the same space. Since the fuel injector fuel lines were installed at
Lycoming, I'm not quite sure how to proceed. I'm concerned that if I
attempt to bend the fuel line up, I may put a crease in the line. I'm not
sure if I should be concerned that with the other five cylinders are all
horizontal in the same plane, if this line is elevated to get over this
bracket. Another option I thought about was to cut a slot in the bracket
and isolate the fuel line with a grommet. I haven't referenced 43.13 yet to
see what guidance it may provide.
The next issue probably falls in the category of me doing something wrong or
not doing the obvious. What's the secret to get this baffle mounted without
severely bending it?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
25 days and counting..
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle advice |
I cut a slot in mine right where you show. Rounded the hole. no
problems 3+ years.
Dr Fred
515FW.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle advice |
Same here:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051107/RV200511060004.html
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051107/RV200511060007.html
The bracket will be fine.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 6/30/2011 7:11 AM, Geoff Combs wrote:
> Bob make a nice half round cut out in the bracket. I had to cut mine out
> for my Ignition coil.
>
> See link
>
> http://cdn-3-service.phanfare.com/images/external/7068012_3161550_64301362_Web_3/0_0_c6e7e93ae7bc906cc3c993621baec8f6_1
>
> **Geoff Combs**
>
> President
>
> **614-834-5227p**
> 614-834-5230f
>
> www.aerosportmodeling.com <http://www.aerosportmodeling.com>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Leffler
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 29, 2011 8:55 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Baffle advice
>
> I ran into a couple opportunities at the hangar this evening that Im
> soliciting opinions while I research for solutions. The first issue is
> that the rear support brace for the baffle and one of the fuel tubes
> want to occupy the same space. Since the fuel injector fuel lines were
> installed at Lycoming, Im not quite sure how to proceed. Im concerned
> that if I attempt to bend the fuel line up, I may put a crease in the
> line. Im not sure if I should be concerned that with the other five
> cylinders are all horizontal in the same plane, if this line is elevated
> to get over this bracket. Another option I thought about was to cut a
> slot in the bracket and isolate the fuel line with a grommet. I havent
> referenced 43.13 yet to see what guidance it may provide.
>
> The next issue probably falls in the category of me doing something
> wrong or not doing the obvious. Whats the secret to get this baffle
> mounted without severely bending it?
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.
>
> 25 days and counting
>
> bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | complete window set for sale |
I have all four windows and windshield, never unpacked, for sale.Pick up
in Las Vegas, or pay for shipping. $500 for all.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH 2011 and the HQ |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Tim,
Thanks for posting a reminder for folks - I had intended to post something
again but have been buried at work.
Hope to see all at OSH - I'll likely be in the same area as in years past
which is just west of where Tim usually is.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Does anybody have a list of the contents in the finish kit bags?
Thanks.
Mike Schulz
mike(at)profishenterprises.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344531#344531
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KIT CONTENTS |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/kits/index.html
On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 3:10 PM, mds4878 wrote:
>
> Does anybody have a list of the contents in the finish kit bags?
> Thanks.
>
> Mike Schulz
> mike(at)profishenterprises.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344531#344531
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KIT CONTENTS |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Thank You.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344536#344536
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Here's the final result. There's about 1/8" gap between the fuel line and
the bracket. I may take a little more off, just for a safety margin.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 5:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baffle advice
Cut the bracket.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'm trying to decide which stick grip to install ..... the choices are
not insignificant. I'd like to know what the flying RV-10s are using
for their stick grip and their recommendations.
A few questions:
Which grip did you choose and why.
Did it meet your expectations?
Did you find that you needed more functions? Which ones?
Would you list the buttons you have and their function?
Do you wish you'd installed another grip, and why?
If you want to reply directly, I'll post a summary in a week or two.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
See answers below
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 8:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: stick grip
I'm trying to decide which stick grip to install ..... the choices are
not insignificant. I'd like to know what the flying RV-10s are using
for their stick grip and their recommendations.
A few questions:
Which grip did you choose and why. Infinity....looked cool and had lots of
buttons
Did it meet your expectations? It exceeded my expectations
Did you find that you needed more functions? Which ones? No...maybe one to
many for day to day use.
Would you list the buttons you have and their function?
I put a grip on each stick....this is the pilots grip (left seat)
Top left (Momentary ) -- Autopilot (works to both engage and disengage the
autopilot)
Top Middle (Top Hat) -- Trim, pitch and roll
Top Right (On-off-(on)) -- Flaps
Trigger -- Press to talk
Thumb -- (Momentary) Freq Switch on comm one
Pinky -- (Momentary) Ident
Do you wish you'd installed another grip, and why? No
But, have not really used the Ident switch. The next time I am in the
panel, I am thinking of changing that switch to comm 1 vs comm 2 selection.
If you want to reply directly, I'll post a summary in a week or two.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I have the Infinity grips. I chose them because I liked the feel and
look, good reputation, and the number of possible functions. I have
the coolie hat on top controlling elevator trim and aileron trim.
Green button to the left flip-flops comm 1 frequencies, black button
to the right is the Vertical Power "Acknowledge" button and checklist
advance, red button halfway down on the right is autopilot disconnect/
CWS, the trigger switch is PTT for the comm radios, and I have a
pinkie switch that is left-off-right for rudder trim. If I was doing
it again, I would not put the rudder trim switch on the grip, but
would have a starter button instead. Other than that, I am very happy
with the grip and the functions.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jun 30, 2011, at 10:33 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> I'm trying to decide which stick grip to install ..... the choices
> are not insignificant. I'd like to know what the flying RV-10s are
> using for their stick grip and their recommendations.
> A few questions:
>
> Which grip did you choose and why.
>
> Did it meet your expectations?
>
> Did you find that you needed more functions? Which ones?
>
> Would you list the buttons you have and their function?
>
> Do you wish you'd installed another grip, and why?
>
>
> If you want to reply directly, I'll post a summary in a week or two.
> Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying Magazine/Dan Lloyd/Aftermath |
| From: | "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com> |
Here's the article from Flying Magazine. Looks like he was "an accident looking
for a place to happen". Too bad!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344568#344568
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_10_accident_2_585.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
I really like my Tosten CS-8 grip very much. Good price, made well. I like having
fewer buttons, and the grip is very comfortable. Trigger is talk, small
button under the trigger is CWS or AP disconnect, hat is trim, left button is
com 1 freq swap and right button is ident.
David Leikam
RV10
Flying
On Jul 1, 2011, at 8:23 AM, David wrote:
>
> I have the Infinity grips. I chose them because I liked the feel and look, good
reputation, and the number of possible functions. I have the coolie hat on
top controlling elevator trim and aileron trim. Green button to the left flip-flops
comm 1 frequencies, black button to the right is the Vertical Power "Acknowledge"
button and checklist advance, red button halfway down on the right is
autopilot disconnect/CWS, the trigger switch is PTT for the comm radios, and
I have a pinkie switch that is left-off-right for rudder trim. If I was doing
it again, I would not put the rudder trim switch on the grip, but would have
a starter button instead. Other than that, I am very happy with the grip and the
functions.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> Flying
>
> On Jun 30, 2011, at 10:33 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm trying to decide which stick grip to install ..... the choices are not insignificant.
I'd like to know what the flying RV-10s are using for their stick
grip and their recommendations.
>> A few questions:
>>
>> Which grip did you choose and why.
>>
>> Did it meet your expectations?
>>
>> Did you find that you needed more functions? Which ones?
>>
>> Would you list the buttons you have and their function?
>>
>> Do you wish you'd installed another grip, and why?
>>
>>
>> If you want to reply directly, I'll post a summary in a week or two.
>> Linn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
I first did the starter button (pinky switch) on the Infinity grip on my 8A.
In addition to the need to add another relay (the switch does not have the
current rating to control the starter solenoid directly) I found it way too
easy bump with the switch with the engine running. I disconnected it after
a few hours.
On the 10, the switches are:
Trim (coolie hat)
Flap
AP engage/disengage
PTT
Comm flip/flop
I do have a locking toggle switch on the panel to select who has control of
trim and flaps (pilot or co-pilot). I do this by controlling the common
ground wire. My thought was to prevent a non-pilot in the seat from doing
something weird, and to have an installed spare switch if the pilot stick
controls fail.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: stick grip
I have the Infinity grips. I chose them because I liked the feel and
look, good reputation, and the number of possible functions. I have
the coolie hat on top controlling elevator trim and aileron trim.
Green button to the left flip-flops comm 1 frequencies, black button
to the right is the Vertical Power "Acknowledge" button and checklist
advance, red button halfway down on the right is autopilot disconnect/
CWS, the trigger switch is PTT for the comm radios, and I have a
pinkie switch that is left-off-right for rudder trim. If I was doing
it again, I would not put the rudder trim switch on the grip, but
would have a starter button instead. Other than that, I am very happy
with the grip and the functions.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jun 30, 2011, at 10:33 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> I'm trying to decide which stick grip to install ..... the choices
> are not insignificant. I'd like to know what the flying RV-10s are
> using for their stick grip and their recommendations.
> A few questions:
>
> Which grip did you choose and why.
>
> Did it meet your expectations?
>
> Did you find that you needed more functions? Which ones?
>
> Would you list the buttons you have and their function?
>
> Do you wish you'd installed another grip, and why?
>
>
> If you want to reply directly, I'll post a summary in a week or two.
> Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying Magazine/Dan Lloyd/Aftermath |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Tim ought to get a royalty out of it. It did provide some insight that I previously
didn't know, but that article was still at least 95% of what Tim wrote 4
years ago. And for those for whom this is new, Tim is the unnamed friend who
implored Dan to slow down and learn his avionics (Cheltons in this case), and
other unheeded advise.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344605#344605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | I'm putting the wings on and the rivet callouts on 44-10 seem |
wrong
I'm riveting on the wing fairing support angles and note that the rivet
callouts are mostly pull rivets. Seems strange since most of the rivets
are easily bucked. At the same time, 2 rivets squeezed in near the flap
actuator and rear spar are called out as AN470 AD4s - they are the
toughest of the bunch.
Anyone know what I'm missing here?
Thanks
Bill "so close to finishing the wing attach" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | I'm putting the wings on and the rivet callouts on 44-10 |
seem wrong
Just did the same thing a month ago. I let common sense be my guide (used
solid rivets where I could buck, pull rivets otherwise). I also added one
more nutplate - on the short angle on the bottom, forward of the wing spar.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 2:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: I'm putting the wings on and the rivet callouts on 44-10
seem wrong
I'm riveting on the wing fairing support angles and note that the rivet
callouts are mostly pull rivets. Seems strange since most of the rivets
are easily bucked. At the same time, 2 rivets squeezed in near the flap
actuator and rear spar are called out as AN470 AD4s - they are the
toughest of the bunch.
Anyone know what I'm missing here?
Thanks
Bill "so close to finishing the wing attach" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
Dearest List of Impeccable Information;
I'm flying into Van Nuys next Tuesday the 5th. I need to park for 2
nights and get a car. Which FBO is suggested? There must be at least
4 of 'em!
Bruce Breckenridge
Portalnd, OR
RV-10 Wings
Christavia MK-1 lots of parts
C182 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
I always preferred BUR over VNY. Easier in/out and seemingly less to deal
with in and around the airport plus much nicer area. We always flew into
Million Air where the staff was really warm and helpful to the point where
they knew my family members names and always asked about my daughter's
career. Million Air has a nice pilots lounge with TV, couches, recliners
and flight planning facility. I think they have Enterprise vehicles there.
Of the ~40 times I flew in I think they charged me just a handful for tie
down. I rarely got gas from the FBO.
In VNY we loved Peterson Aviation but I believe they have closed.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce
breckenridge
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 1:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: KVNY
Dearest List of Impeccable Information;
I'm flying into Van Nuys next Tuesday the 5th. I need to park for 2
nights and get a car. Which FBO is suggested? There must be at least
4 of 'em!
Bruce Breckenridge
Portalnd, OR
RV-10 Wings
Christavia MK-1 lots of parts
C182 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying Magazine/Dan Lloyd/Aftermath |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only who feels Mac is not a good fit with EAA.
His articles and blog seem geared more towards the certified crowd as if he
had never left Flying. I mean his latest blog is about the lack of maintenance
rules for owners. Really? Maybe we can make a trade--
Mac for Peter G.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344629#344629
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying Magazine/Dan Lloyd/Aftermath |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My only complaint about this article is that it gives the uninformed the impression
that if the engine quits, you must die.
Ultimately, the PIC died because he either was incapable of, or, more likely, refused
to accept, landing in a corn field.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344637#344637
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I have the Tosten on the left stick, and like the feel of it. I just use 3 functions:
top hat for trim, trigger for PTT, and right rear button for autopilot
disconnect. The right stick has an inexpensive Allen (I think) grip with just
PTT. I don't want passengers hitting the trim switch. I installed the Allen rocker
trim switch in the right-center panel, easily reached by either pilot, as
a second way of running trim from the left seat or the main way from the right.
My Trio autopilot will also run the trim, automatically or manually.
I have the trim speeds set so the left stick runs full speed; the panel rocker
runs a little slower; and the Trio auto-adjusts to run fast when airspeed is low,
and runs trim slowly when airspeed is high.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344639#344639
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying Magazine/Dan Lloyd/Aftermath |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
Bob,
For those of us not familiar with the story, can you enlighten us about the avoiding
landing in the corn field?
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344644#344644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I used the Teak wooden grips on my RV-4 and liked them so much that I am usi
ng them on my RV-10. I have the coolie hat for trim, a PTT and an autopilot d
isconnect. I am very happy with them.
-Mike Kraus
40013, 19.8 hours
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 1, 2011, at 8:57 PM, "Bob Turner" wrote:
>
> I have the Tosten on the left stick, and like the feel of it. I just use 3
functions: top hat for trim, trigger for PTT, and right rear button for au
topilot disconnect. The right stick has an inexpensive Allen (I think) grip w
ith just PTT. I don't want passengers hitting the trim switch. I installed t
he Allen rocker trim switch in the right-center panel, easily reached by eit
her pilot, as a second way of running trim from the left seat or the main wa
y from the right. My Trio autopilot will also run the trim, automatically or
manually.
>
> I have the trim speeds set so the left stick runs full speed; the panel ro
cker runs a little slower; and the Trio auto-adjusts to run fast when airspe
ed is low, and runs trim slowly when airspeed is high.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344639#344639
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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