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December 28, 2011 - January 28, 2012

> Dave Moore > RV-6 flying > RV-10 QB - Working G3X panel > Rest almost done > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361859#361859 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS...
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 28, 2011
I have the GRT HX/HS and a fully coupled Trio autopilot, and of course I like the panel very much. Having said that, I really don't think too much emphasis should be placed on having an approach coupled autopilot. The autopilot's job is to relieve fatigue, not to do things which the pilot is incapable of. An altitude holding autopilot does the job of relieving fatigue just fine. It is not that difficult to hand fly approaches in the -10. In fact, it might be best for many GA pilots (who don't get enough practice) to hand fly approaches, even if the autopilot can do it, just to keep really current. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361869#361869 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS...
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Dec 28, 2011
I agree. The FAA requires a working autopilot before dispatch on single pilot jets. It's nice to have when initiating a missed approach and re-reading the alternate. -------- 40936 RV-10 SB N801VR Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361877#361877 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS...
As I get ready to go out and do some coupled approach button pushing and power setting exercises, I'd suggest that a AP setup capable of coupled GPS approaches is such a great capability, that it should be seriously considered. I'm still amazed that I can setup for a standard GPS T-approach and not touch a thing until DH (complete hands-off requires trim interconnect and/or a modest power setting). That's airliner-type capability. I got my rating and have flown 100% of my actual, single pilot sans AP. A wing leveler would have been a game changer, lateral steering heaven, vertical steering unimaginable. A fully coupled AP means maintaining proficiency at both hand flying, coupled AP operation, and several modes in between. More work, not less. But given that, the utility of being able to monitor a fully coupled approach when at a strange airport in low weather is pretty special. I'm not familiar with the Trio or other APs and EFIS configs, but in my configuration, the AP is one of my main backup options in case of various failures. It will fly the plane with an otherwise dead and cold panel while I twist-in maneuvers and monitor my analog instruments. Highly unlikely but something else to consider. In any case, I agree that all of these configurations are great. The price/performance of these experimental panels is pretty amazing. Bill "GRT/HX 430W TT auto-trim" Watson On 12/28/2011 9:31 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Turner" > > I have the GRT HX/HS and a fully coupled Trio autopilot, and of course I like the panel very much. > > Having said that, I really don't think too much emphasis should be placed on having an approach coupled autopilot. The autopilot's job is to relieve fatigue, not to do things which the pilot is incapable of. An altitude holding autopilot does the job of relieving fatigue just fine. > > It is not that difficult to hand fly approaches in the -10. In fact, it might be best for many GA pilots (who don't get enough practice) to hand fly approaches, even if the autopilot can do it, just to keep really current. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361869#361869 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS...
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 29, 2011
I agree 100% with Bill: "A fully coupled AP means maintaining proficiency at both hand flying, coupled AP operation, and several modes in between. More work, not less." This is the airline/part 135 world, where pilots use autopilots all the time but also get frequent recurrent training. Unfortunately in the real world of GA, not everyone follows this model. Some people have wondered if the Cirrus aircraft - with its parachute - encourages pilots to attempt things they otherwise wouldn't do. I wonder the same thing about autopilots. Just my two cents. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361927#361927 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2011
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS...
I'm an unbiased observer on this subject ..... I don't fly IFR but do practice the GPS approach available from my Anywhere Map. If I do something stupid and find myself in trouble, I have an option that may save my stupid butt. I view a coupled approach as being in the same light. Having it and not using it is far preferable to wanting it and not having it available. It's a tool available to save your butt when the brain goes out to lunch with task overload. Preservation of of the pilot and passengers is high on my list of capabilities. Linn On 12/29/2011 3:29 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Turner" > > I agree 100% with Bill: > > "A fully coupled AP means maintaining proficiency at both hand flying, > coupled AP operation, and several modes in between. More work, not > less." > > This is the airline/part 135 world, where pilots use autopilots all the time but also get frequent recurrent training. Unfortunately in the real world of GA, not everyone follows this model. > > Some people have wondered if the Cirrus aircraft - with its parachute - encourages pilots to attempt things they otherwise wouldn't do. > > I wonder the same thing about autopilots. > > Just my two cents. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361927#361927 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS...
Upon reflection, I'd like to share a bit.. Like I said, I went out today for a little training on button pushing and power settings. A very productive session. However, going back to my initial flights with this panel, I recall that when I first started to use each function - lateral steering, GPS steering, Altitude hold, vertical steering, GPS coupled approaches and ILS coupled approaches - each attempt was an adventure and were generally unsuccessful if not a bit scary the first couple of times. And I had a malfunctioning AP just to keep me on my toes. That's the kind of adventure that can kill you when the shades are drawn. As Linn suggested, you have to practice if this stuff is going to help rather than hurt. I'd suggest that if you don't practice, it's better not to even think about it or perhaps even have it. So, if I were VFR-only I know that I would use a basic autopilot with lateral steering. I'd use it for altitude hold or even climbs and descents if it had that capability. Personally, I wouldn't practice full approaches with it due to just plain laziness. And if I did feel compelled to practice approaches, I'm sure I'd just go get the rating which is what I did.... but even then, I've learned if I don't practice and stay proficient, I might as well stay visual and pretend the capabilities aren't there. So why not practice approaches "just in case"? Because if "just in case" happens, the best thing to do is confess, ask for vectors and a descent to VFR. I know that I can't hand fly an ILS to standard if I haven't stayed current and I probably couldn't get my AP to fly a coupled approach safely if I haven't practiced the button pushing. But maybe that's just me. Bill "i'm legal and working on becoming proficient" Watson On 12/29/2011 5:24 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > I'm an unbiased observer on this subject ..... I don't fly IFR but do > practice the GPS approach available from my Anywhere Map. If I do > something stupid and find myself in trouble, I have an option that may > save my stupid butt. > > I view a coupled approach as being in the same light. Having it and > not using it is far preferable to wanting it and not having it > available. It's a tool available to save your butt when the brain > goes out to lunch with task overload. > > Preservation of of the pilot and passengers is high on my list of > capabilities. > > Linn > > > On 12/29/2011 3:29 PM, Bob Turner wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Turner" >> >> I agree 100% with Bill: >> >> "A fully coupled AP means maintaining proficiency at both hand flying, >> coupled AP operation, and several modes in between. More work, not >> less." >> >> This is the airline/part 135 world, where pilots use autopilots all >> the time but also get frequent recurrent training. Unfortunately in >> the real world of GA, not everyone follows this model. >> >> Some people have wondered if the Cirrus aircraft - with its parachute >> - encourages pilots to attempt things they otherwise wouldn't do. >> >> I wonder the same thing about autopilots. >> >> Just my two cents. >> >> -------- >> Bob Turner >> RV-10 QB >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361927#361927 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2011
Subject: Section 29 Help
From: Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com>
Ok having trouble with section 29-15. Step #1, describes dimpling the F-1015B Foot Well Rib Intercostals and the overlying F-1015F spacer. But there is no indication that the actual rib, F-1015A gets dimpled. Yet the mid fuse skin is dimpled and lays on top of the rib. So am I supposed to dimple F-1015A outer web? Thanks in advance. Here are a couple of references: http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec29-pg15.html http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec29-pg09.html -- Vernon Franklin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS...
Date: Dec 29, 2011
Having no working AP for the first 26 years of flying including numerous low IFR approaches and departures, one learns to be the pilot. Although on an IFR plan I arrived for my first two actual IFR approaches with the Cheltons in the 10 expecting a visual approach at both RNO and MYJ. The RNO ATIS stated "ILS 16R in use visibility 1-1/4 in smoke"; those skyway boxes came in handy for the hand flown approach. At MYJ the only weather for 300 miles was setting over the MYJ airport resulting in an RNAV6 approach from the right seat to a 400-1 in moderate rain. Check out the AP but be ready to hand fly; remember the computer between your ears Is much more capable and flexible than the AP if the pilot can put the flight path marker where it is supposed to be. Also remember that every once in a while ATC throws a wrench. Last September I was cleared for an RNAV 34 into 1H0 in St Louis in IMC. As I prepared to join the final and proceed inbound, ATC said that they had a jet passing above me and could I do a couple turns in the depicted holding pattern. I said OK (they cancelled the approach clearance) and at the fix I turned outbound (skyway boxes gone) using the green diamond (GPS track) I flew a track of 160 for about one minute and then turned inbound to a track of 340; arriving at the fix I again turned outbound one minute then inbound. ATC re-cleared me for the approach and out in the distance on the PFD , the skyway boxes were still there. The remainder of the approach was unremarkable. My advice; if you plan to fly IMC, practice hand flying , learn your equipment, work up to the lower minimums. The PFD, MFD, EIS displays make this so much easier than it used to be. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 6:47 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS... Upon reflection, I'd like to share a bit.. Like I said, I went out today for a little training on button pushing and power settings. A very productive session. However, going back to my initial flights with this panel, I recall that when I first started to use each function - lateral steering, GPS steering, Altitude hold, vertical steering, GPS coupled approaches and ILS coupled approaches - each attempt was an adventure and were generally unsuccessful if not a bit scary the first couple of times. And I had a malfunctioning AP just to keep me on my toes. That's the kind of adventure that can kill you when the shades are drawn. As Linn suggested, you have to practice if this stuff is going to help rather than hurt. I'd suggest that if you don't practice, it's better not to even think about it or perhaps even have it. So, if I were VFR-only I know that I would use a basic autopilot with lateral steering. I'd use it for altitude hold or even climbs and descents if it had that capability. Personally, I wouldn't practice full approaches with it due to just plain laziness. And if I did feel compelled to practice approaches, I'm sure I'd just go get the rating which is what I did.... but even then, I've learned if I don't practice and stay proficient, I might as well stay visual and pretend the capabilities aren't there. So why not practice approaches "just in case"? Because if "just in case" happens, the best thing to do is confess, ask for vectors and a descent to VFR. I know that I can't hand fly an ILS to standard if I haven't stayed current and I probably couldn't get my AP to fly a coupled approach safely if I haven't practiced the button pushing. But maybe that's just me. Bill "i'm legal and working on becoming proficient" Watson On 12/29/2011 5:24 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > I'm an unbiased observer on this subject ..... I don't fly IFR but do > practice the GPS approach available from my Anywhere Map. If I do > something stupid and find myself in trouble, I have an option that may > save my stupid butt. > > I view a coupled approach as being in the same light. Having it and > not using it is far preferable to wanting it and not having it > available. It's a tool available to save your butt when the brain > goes out to lunch with task overload. > > Preservation of of the pilot and passengers is high on my list of > capabilities. > > Linn > > > On 12/29/2011 3:29 PM, Bob Turner wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Turner" >> >> I agree 100% with Bill: >> >> "A fully coupled AP means maintaining proficiency at both hand flying, >> coupled AP operation, and several modes in between. More work, not >> less." >> >> This is the airline/part 135 world, where pilots use autopilots all >> the time but also get frequent recurrent training. Unfortunately in >> the real world of GA, not everyone follows this model. >> >> Some people have wondered if the Cirrus aircraft - with its parachute >> - encourages pilots to attempt things they otherwise wouldn't do. >> >> I wonder the same thing about autopilots. >> >> Just my two cents. >> >> -------- >> Bob Turner >> RV-10 QB >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361927#361927 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration...
At 07:39 PM 12/26/2011 Monday, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle > >Dear Listers, > >I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few weeks now and it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph fast. The GS always reads 10mph or more slower than the True airspeed, no matter which way I fly with respect to the current wind. Looking through the configuration options on the Skyview, I'm not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspeed. If the airspeed were *slow* compared to the GS, I could envision making adjustments to the Pitot tube to get it in better alignment with slipstream. But *fast* is a head scratcher. If there's no electronic configuration parameters to adjust, what do you do? Are there Pitot line "attenuators" like for RF in coax? ;-) > >Matt Listers, I went flying tonight in the RV-6 around sunset and took some airspeed numbers flying the four points of the compass. I let each direction normalize for about 2 minutes before taking the readings. I've still got my little black-tape washer deals on the static ports that I detailed in a previous email. Do these numbers make any sense? Emacs! I set the altimeter to 30.15 (KLVK ATIS). I compared the Dynon altitude with the Garmin 696 GPS altitude. The Dynon was high by 100 ft. I used the Dynon altitude adjustment to set it to match the GPS (-100ft). The readings above were after this adjustment. - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2011
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration...
You can use either barometric altitude or pressure altitude. GPS altitude is irrelevant, It is a calculation based on a theoretical modified sphere, with some WAAS correction, but ATC and all flight rules are based on barometric altitude. You can derive pressure altitude from baro and vice versa, but you can't replicate GPS altitude. With a portable WAAS enabled receiver I see variations of +/- 150 ft at my home airport in GPS altitude. Yes, it usually is within 50 ft but not repeatedly. Are you certain the inputs for the Dynon to calculate TAS from indicated are correct? Is your indicated temp and baro altitude on the money? That set of ground speeds computes to 182 TAS http://www.reacomp.com/true_airspeed/index.html So your indicated TAS is still 12 kts high. On 12/29/2011 8:33 PM, Matt Dralle wrote: > At 07:39 PM 12/26/2011 Monday, you wrote: >> --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle >> >> Dear Listers, >> >> I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few >> weeks now and it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph >> fast. The GS always reads 10mph or more slower than the True >> airspeed, no matter which way I fly with respect to the current >> wind. Looking through the configuration options on the Skyview, I'm >> not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspeed. If the airspeed >> were *slow* compared to the GS, I could envision making adjustments >> to the Pitot tube to get it in better alignment with slipstream. But >> *fast* is a head scratcher. If there's no electronic configuration >> parameters to adjust, what do you do? Are there Pitot line >> "attenuators" like for RF in coax? ;-) >> >> Matt > > > Listers, > > I went flying tonight in the RV-6 around sunset and took some airspeed > numbers flying the four points of the compass. I let each direction > normalize for about 2 minutes before taking the readings. I've still > got my little black-tape washer deals on the static ports that I > detailed in a previous email. > > Do these numbers make any sense? > Emacs! > I set the altimeter to 30.15 (KLVK ATIS). I compared the Dynon > altitude with the Garmin 696 GPS altitude. The Dynon was high by 100 > ft. I used the Dynon altitude adjustment to set it to match the GPS > (-100ft). The readings above were after this adjustment. > > - > Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle > > RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete > RV-8 Construction Log > http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... > > RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" > http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 > Revitalization Log > Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full > Flyer Mode > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration...
Date: Dec 29, 2011
Matt, What type/shape of static ports do you have? I'm wondering if this is an issue with flush static ports??? Airspeed indicator results/calibration has proven more effective with a static port that protrudes a bit from the edge of the skin. Ben Westfall From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 7:34 PM rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... At 07:39 PM 12/26/2011 Monday, you wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers, I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few weeks now and it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph fast. The GS always reads 10mph or more slower than the True airspeed, no matter which way I fly with respect to the current wind. Looking through the configuration options on the Skyview, I'm not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspeed. If the airspeed were *slow* compared to the GS, I could envision making adjustments to the Pitot tube to get it in better alignment with slipstream. But *fast* is a head scratcher. If there's no electronic configuration parameters to adjust, what do you do? Are there Pitot line "attenuators" like for RF in coax? ;-) Matt Listers, I went flying tonight in the RV-6 around sunset and took some airspeed numbers flying the four points of the compass. I let each direction normalize for about 2 minutes before taking the readings. I've still got my little black-tape washer deals on the static ports that I detailed in a previous email. Do these numbers make any sense? Emacs! I set the altimeter to 30.15 (KLVK ATIS). I compared the Dynon altitude with the Garmin 696 GPS altitude. The Dynon was high by 100 ft. I used the Dynon altitude adjustment to set it to match the GPS (-100ft). The readings above were after this adjustment. - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration...
Date: Dec 29, 2011
Oops I did not read the entire email. I see you already figured it out. Sorry for the spam -Ben From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 7:34 PM rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... At 07:39 PM 12/26/2011 Monday, you wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers, I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few weeks now and it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph fast. The GS always reads 10mph or more slower than the True airspeed, no matter which way I fly with respect to the current wind. Looking through the configuration options on the Skyview, I'm not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspeed. If the airspeed were *slow* compared to the GS, I could envision making adjustments to the Pitot tube to get it in better alignment with slipstream. But *fast* is a head scratcher. If there's no electronic configuration parameters to adjust, what do you do? Are there Pitot line "attenuators" like for RF in coax? ;-) Matt Listers, I went flying tonight in the RV-6 around sunset and took some airspeed numbers flying the four points of the compass. I let each direction normalize for about 2 minutes before taking the readings. I've still got my little black-tape washer deals on the static ports that I detailed in a previous email. Do these numbers make any sense? Emacs! I set the altimeter to 30.15 (KLVK ATIS). I compared the Dynon altitude with the Garmin 696 GPS altitude. The Dynon was high by 100 ft. I used the Dynon altitude adjustment to set it to match the GPS (-100ft). The readings above were after this adjustment. - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2011
From: "egodfrey(at)ameritech.net" <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Are any of you installing/flying with the 10" Skyviews? Am interested in how the installation was positioned in the panel. I am looking at installing two of 10" Skyviews and was wondering about the layout in regards to the "center" radio stack along with the placement of fuses and switches. Any pictures would certainly be appreciated. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration...
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 30, 2011
Matt, I'd record the indicated airspeeds as well. Use an E-6B or equivalent to see if the true airspeeds you calculate match the Dynon's. Maybe there's a software error, or an input (temperature, altitude) error there. Since the speeds look uniformly high, I would just note that a static line leak inside the cabin will usually make the airspeeds read high. Try slightly pressurizing the line with a balloon, see if it leaks. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362008#362008 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "M. Marcotte" <m.l.marcotte(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration...
Date: Dec 30, 2011
I think one can calculate from the GPS numbers that you had a 14 MPH (approx) wind from the WNW and you were doing 182 TAS. Your IAS would appear to be 12 MPH too high. From: Matt Dralle Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 10:33 PM rv7-list(at)matronics.com ; rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... At 07:39 PM 12/26/2011 Monday, you wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers, I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few weeks now and it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph fast. The GS always reads 10mph or more slower than the True airspeed, no matter which way I fly with respect to the current wind. Looking through the configuration options on the Skyview, I'm not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspeed. If the airspeed were *slow* compared to the GS, I could envision making adjustments to the Pitot tube to get it in better alignment with slipstream. But *fast* is a head scratcher. If there's no electronic configuration parameters to adjust, what do you do? Are there Pitot line "attenuators" like for RF in coax? ;-) Matt Listers, I went flying tonight in the RV-6 around sunset and took some airspeed numbers flying the four points of the compass. I let each direction normalize for about 2 minutes before taking the readings. I've still got my little black-tape washer deals on the static ports that I detailed in a previous email. Do these numbers make any sense? I set the altimeter to 30.15 (KLVK ATIS). I compared the Dynon altitude with the Garmin 696 GPS altitude. The Dynon was high by 100 ft. I used the Dynon altitude adjustment to set it to match the GPS (-100ft). The readings above were after this adjustment. - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Date: Dec 30, 2011
Ed, I'm still wiring, but cleckoed the panel in to show what I did. In the center top is Comm #1 (MicroAir). Below that is the Audio panel then the GTN-650. The left round hole is standard airspeed indictor, the right round hole is standard altimeter. The XDPR is located behind the panel (Dynon unit). The GTN-650 requires a reinforced cutout on the next forward bulkhead to fit. I added a hinge on the back of the GTN-650 that attaches to the bottom of the bulkhead opening to support the unit. To take the panel out you separate the connectors and pull the hinge pin. The only 4 breakers on the panel are for the GTN-650 (2), the audio panel and the MicroAir. These are the only power users that come out with the panel. The power and ground come from separate left/right molex plugs. All other breakers and switches are on the apron, along with the two heat control cables, the air box alternate air cable and the oil cooler air control cable. Interface connections to the stack are via D connectors. Locations took awhile to figure out as you need to be mindful of interference behind the panel. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of egodfrey(at)ameritech.net Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 12:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: Speaking of Dynon Skyview... Are any of you installing/flying with the 10" Skyviews? Am interested in how the installation was positioned in the panel. I am looking at installing two of 10" Skyviews and was wondering about the layout in regards to the "center" radio stack along with the placement of fuses and switches. Any pictures would certainly be appreciated. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Date: Dec 30, 2011
Ed, As we were flying well before Geoff's panels were available we used the standard Vans flat metal panel and did a little trimming of the reinforcement brackets including adding some simple stiffeners to make up for the material removed. If I were to build now I would install one of Geoff's panels in an Aurora, Oregon minute. The CF panel is soooo nice and is a real upgrade to the metal unit and is extra clean when considering the quadrant and center console options. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of egodfrey(at)ameritech.net Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 9:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Speaking of Dynon Skyview... --> Are any of you installing/flying with the 10" Skyviews? Am interested in how the installation was positioned in the panel. I am looking at installing two of 10" Skyviews and was wondering about the layout in regards to the "center" radio stack along with the placement of fuses and switches. Any pictures would certainly be appreciated. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2011
From: "egodfrey(at)ameritech.net" <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Carl, Your idea is along the lines that I was thinking. I was looking to put the radio stack to the left of the center rib. What are you planning on installing in your stack? I was planning on a PMA-6000B, a 430W and an SL30. Also, what do you plan to install in the round holes in the lower left and upper right? Are you using a separate auto pilot? I have attached a picture of the beginning thoughts that I have. Ed On 12/30/2011 2:39 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > Ed, > > I'm still wiring, but cleckoed the panel in to show what I did. > > In the center top is Comm #1 (MicroAir). Below that is the Audio panel then > the GTN-650. The left round hole is standard airspeed indictor, the right > round hole is standard altimeter. The XDPR is located behind the panel > (Dynon unit). The GTN-650 requires a reinforced cutout on the next forward > bulkhead to fit. I added a hinge on the back of the GTN-650 that attaches > to the bottom of the bulkhead opening to support the unit. To take the > panel out you separate the connectors and pull the hinge pin. > > The only 4 breakers on the panel are for the GTN-650 (2), the audio panel > and the MicroAir. These are the only power users that come out with the > panel. The power and ground come from separate left/right molex plugs. All > other breakers and switches are on the apron, along with the two heat > control cables, the air box alternate air cable and the oil cooler air > control cable. Interface connections to the stack are via D connectors. > > Locations took awhile to figure out as you need to be mindful of > interference behind the panel. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > egodfrey(at)ameritech.net > Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 12:03 PM > To: RV-10 List > Subject: RV10-List: Speaking of Dynon Skyview... > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "egodfrey(at)ameritech.net" > > > Are any of you installing/flying with the 10" Skyviews? Am interested in > how the installation was positioned in the panel. I am looking at > installing two of 10" Skyviews and was wondering about the layout in > regards to the "center" radio stack along with the placement of fuses > and switches. Any pictures would certainly be appreciated. > > Ed Godfrey > 40717 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Date: Dec 30, 2011
Ed, I tried to do a fit with the radio stack left of the center rib, but I really did not like how this forced the left Dynon display low on the panel. That would leave both displays lower than desired or one low and one high - weird looking. I also wanted a steam gauge airspeed indicator on my side of the panel as I have never gotten use to using the EFIS airspeed indication in my 8A for takeoffs and landings, and I wanted airspeed and altitude backup to the Skyviews (even though the odds of both displays and both ADHRS going out is remote - and each side has independent power). The 430 can fit under the center rib with the PMA audio panel above it, and you may have room for the SL-30 below the 430 depending on how tidy you are with the wire bundles mounted to the bottom of the next forward bulkhead. I mounted the audio panel as high as I could while still clearing the center rib. I know others have modified the rib to gain clearance. I have the SL-30 in my 8A and love it, but I have no need for a second VOR/ILS receiver in the 10. I picked up the MicroAir from a builder that never used it for a good price - and it is more than sufficient for a back up transceiver. The compact size also elevated anymore bulkhead cuts. The backup Nav to the 650 is of course the Skyview GPS. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of egodfrey(at)ameritech.net Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 4:29 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Dynon Skyview... Carl, Your idea is along the lines that I was thinking. I was looking to put the radio stack to the left of the center rib. What are you planning on installing in your stack? I was planning on a PMA-6000B, a 430W and an SL30. Also, what do you plan to install in the round holes in the lower left and upper right? Are you using a separate auto pilot? I have attached a picture of the beginning thoughts that I have. Ed On 12/30/2011 2:39 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > Ed, > > I'm still wiring, but cleckoed the panel in to show what I did. > > In the center top is Comm #1 (MicroAir). Below that is the Audio > panel then the GTN-650. The left round hole is standard airspeed > indictor, the right round hole is standard altimeter. The XDPR is > located behind the panel (Dynon unit). The GTN-650 requires a > reinforced cutout on the next forward bulkhead to fit. I added a > hinge on the back of the GTN-650 that attaches to the bottom of the > bulkhead opening to support the unit. To take the panel out you separate the connectors and pull the hinge pin. > > The only 4 breakers on the panel are for the GTN-650 (2), the audio > panel and the MicroAir. These are the only power users that come out > with the panel. The power and ground come from separate left/right > molex plugs. All other breakers and switches are on the apron, along > with the two heat control cables, the air box alternate air cable and > the oil cooler air control cable. Interface connections to the stack are via D connectors. > > Locations took awhile to figure out as you need to be mindful of > interference behind the panel. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > egodfrey(at)ameritech.net > Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 12:03 PM > To: RV-10 List > Subject: RV10-List: Speaking of Dynon Skyview... > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "egodfrey(at)ameritech.net" > > > Are any of you installing/flying with the 10" Skyviews? Am interested > in how the installation was positioned in the panel. I am looking at > installing two of 10" Skyviews and was wondering about the layout in > regards to the "center" radio stack along with the placement of fuses > and switches. Any pictures would certainly be appreciated. > > Ed Godfrey > 40717 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Dec 30, 2011
Here is what I did. If you have the PFD on the right 1/2 of the screen on t he pilots side and the left 1/2 of the screen on the co-pilots side then it i s right in front of each. I also squeezed in a radio stack and a Garmin 696 . I really like my layout.... Let me know if you have any questions or need more close-up pictures -Mike Kraus RV-10 40013, Flying Sent from my iPhone On Dec 30, 2011, at 12:02 PM, "egodfrey(at)ameritech.net" wrote: ech.net> > > Are any of you installing/flying with the 10" Skyviews? Am interested in h ow the installation was positioned in the panel. I am looking at installing t wo of 10" Skyviews and was wondering about the layout in regards to the "cen ter" radio stack along with the placement of fuses and switches. Any picture s would certainly be appreciated. > > Ed Godfrey > 40717 > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > >

________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Section 29 Help
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 30, 2011
I did every single section in order except wing installation. Van's has a reason for putting them in a certain order. When I finished the last page I knew I was done. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 Bldr# 40983SB Started 12/1/2009 N715WD Flying 12/1/2011. Paint 2012. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362059#362059 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Date: Dec 30, 2011
Got the VP-200 for safety reasons and pre-VPX era. You may not need it, and that will free up that space for a IFR screen, if you wish. I will say that the safety features that the VP uses for mode switches and engine alarms is great! Pascal -----Original Message----- From: egodfrey(at)ameritech.net Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 9:02 AM Subject: RV10-List: Speaking of Dynon Skyview... Are any of you installing/flying with the 10" Skyviews? Am interested in how the installation was positioned in the panel. I am looking at installing two of 10" Skyviews and was wondering about the layout in regards to the "center" radio stack along with the placement of fuses and switches. Any pictures would certainly be appreciated. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
>At 09:17 PM 12/30/2011 Friday, you wrote: >Got the VP-200 for safety reasons and pre-VPX era. You may not need it, and that will free up that space for a IFR screen, if you wish. I will say that the safety features that the VP uses for mode switches and engine alarms is great! > >Pascal Listers, I would also highly recommend the Vertical Power VP-200. I wouldn't fly an Experimental without one. Look how clean Pacscal's panel is without all those switches and circuit breakers! Nice. Push that Green button once when you get in, and from then on the VP-200 takes care of turning On and Off all the various circuits depending on the automatically detected Mode of flight. Startup, Taxi, Runup, Takeoff, Cruise, Landing, etc. Its pretty darn cool. I've got 172 hours on the RV-8 and 48 hours on the RV-6 both with VP-200 systems and have found it to work flawlessly. If you're on the fence about buying one, don't be. You'll love it. Best money I've spent on both RVs, hands down. See attached pictures of my VP-200 from both the RV-8 and RV-6. The RV-8 has dual alternators for redundancy and this is supported by the VP-200 and shown as the "Pri Alt" and "Sec Alt" on the main display. Pascal, you should contact Vertical power and get the latest software update for the VP-200 (from early December 2011). It now supports full EMS data link from the Dynon Skyview so all of the Mode selection is fully automatic. You also get some of the primary engine instrument display on the VP-200 screen as well as a myriad of visual and audible engine annunciators. Works great. - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ralph Finch <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 31, 2011
Subject: Re: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Matt, what do you think about the VP-X? It's a lot cheaper but doesn't have the flight modes or extra display and thus requires all the switches still (just no circuit breakers). Ralph Finch Davis Listers, > > I would also highly recommend the Vertical Power VP-200. I wouldn't fly > an Experimental without one. Look how clean Pacscal's panel is without all > those switches and circuit breakers! Nice. Push that Green button once > when you get in, and from then on the VP-200 takes care of turning On and > Off all the various circuits depending on the automatically detected Mode > of flight. Startup, Taxi, Runup, Takeoff, Cruise, Landing, etc. Its > pretty darn cool. I've got 172 hours on the RV-8 and 48 hours on the RV-6 > both with VP-200 systems and have found it to work flawlessly. If you're > on the fence about buying one, don't be. You'll love it. Best money I've > spent on both RVs, hands down. See attached pictures of my VP-200 from > both the RV-8 and RV-6. The RV-8 has dual alternators for redundancy and > this is supported by the VP-200 and shown as the "Pri Alt" and "Sec Alt" on > the main display. > > Pascal, you should contact Vertical power and get the latest software > update for the VP-200 (from early December 2011). It now supports full EMS > data link from the Dynon Skyview so all of the Mode selection is fully > automatic. You also get some of the primary engine instrument display on > the VP-200 screen as well as a myriad of visual and audible engine > annunciators. Works great. > > > - > Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle > > RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log > http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... > > RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" > http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log > Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer > Mode > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Date: Dec 31, 2011
Matt; You are right on! I pressed Robert at Dynon and Marc at every flyin to get the implementation of the software. Because of this I have been fortunate to get a early view of it. It's remains BETA as far as I can tell . Data logging, not in the Skyview yet, has worked fantastically for me with LOP ops; mode switching? well, my wife wanted safety, doesn't get more safe than having that "co-pilot" control each and every step for me. The fly off has been so much easier with the VP-200, as I set what I want it to do at each mode on the ground and it gets completed in the air so I dont need to think about it. I also like the fact that my checklist is on the screen, so no pulling out the paper list while flying, (ie- "runup mode" kicks in at 1700rpm and mag check shows difference and results of check; "landing mode" determined by engine information and checklist comes on, I use a button on my stick to acknowledge the step and if I get distracted, well, I know where I left off as it is still highlighted, so I can move on without missing a step- happens when I use my paper checklist.The warnings for the engine info are also a great safety item (not in the skyview yet either) when CHT's and EGT exceed my POH numbers. Lets me focus on flying and not staring at my higher EGTs as I go lower without thinking about the Mixture- good reminder that I need to check something. It has not happened but if it ever did.. I have it now with a female voice telling me "CHECK EGT.. CHECK EGT". It's a expensive investment, but it's a investment I never regretted, especially now that it is doing everything I heard it could do. Dynon and Vertical Power really are customer focused companies. I wish Dynon would move their capabilities for the Skyview along, and in time I believe they will have the audio alarms and data logging, they have the VP-X integration (extra charge applies) which removes the switches and gives that extra space on the panel, but they will never have the mode changes seen in the VP-200. There really is so much the VP-200 does for safety (keyless start, emergency procedures, electrical triage when battery charge is decreasing (aka alternator failure)etc) that it would take me a while to cover. If anyone is wondering what it looks like- check out their Take a flight demo http://www.verticalpower.com/Take-a-Flight/ and their page. http://www.verticalpower.com/VP200.html This forum is to help others.. I preach Desser/Cee baileys because for custom fit windows they are the best way to go, versus having to do all the fitting one self and at the same price as Vans sells the pieces.. I gain nothing with this company nor with telling you my experience with VP-200 other than giving my feedback. Hope it helps someone. Pascal -----Original Message----- From: Matt Dralle Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 10:32 AM ; rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Dynon Skyview... >At 09:17 PM 12/30/2011 Friday, you wrote: >Got the VP-200 for safety reasons and pre-VPX era. You may not need it, and >that will free up that space for a IFR screen, if you wish. I will say that >the safety features that the VP uses for mode switches and engine alarms >is great! > >Pascal Listers, I would also highly recommend the Vertical Power VP-200. I wouldn't fly an Experimental without one. Look how clean Pacscal's panel is without all those switches and circuit breakers! Nice. Push that Green button once when you get in, and from then on the VP-200 takes care of turning On and Off all the various circuits depending on the automatically detected Mode of flight. Startup, Taxi, Runup, Takeoff, Cruise, Landing, etc. Its pretty darn cool. I've got 172 hours on the RV-8 and 48 hours on the RV-6 both with VP-200 systems and have found it to work flawlessly. If you're on the fence about buying one, don't be. You'll love it. Best money I've spent on both RVs, hands down. See attached pictures of my VP-200 from both the RV-8 and RV-6. The RV-8 has dual alternators for redundancy and this is supported by the VP-200 and shown as the "Pri Alt" and "Sec Alt" on the main display. Pascal, you should contact Vertical power and get the latest software update for the VP-200 (from early December 2011). It now supports full EMS data link from the Dynon Skyview so all of the Mode selection is fully automatic. You also get some of the primary engine instrument display on the VP-200 screen as well as a myriad of visual and audible engine annunciators. Works great. - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Dynon Skyview...
Date: Dec 31, 2011
I just sent out a response- check out the link- http://www.verticalpower.com/Take-a-Flight/ If you see no benefit to the modes, the VP-X is a great option. Pascal From: Ralph Finch Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 12:48 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV10-List: Speaking of Dynon Skyview... Matt, what do you think about the VP-X? It's a lot cheaper but doesn't have the flight modes or extra display and thus requires all the switches still (just no circuit breakers). Ralph Finch Davis Listers, I would also highly recommend the Vertical Power VP-200. I wouldn't fly an Experimental without one. Look how clean Pacscal's panel is without all those switches and circuit breakers! Nice. Push that Green button once when you get in, and from then on the VP-200 takes care of turning On and Off all the various circuits depending on the automatically detected Mode of flight. Startup, Taxi, Runup, Takeoff, Cruise, Landing, etc. Its pretty darn cool. I've got 172 hours on the RV-8 and 48 hours on the RV-6 both with VP-200 systems and have found it to work flawlessly. If you're on the fence about buying one, don't be. You'll love it. Best money I've spent on both RVs, hands down. See attached pictures of my VP-200 from both the RV-8 and RV-6. The RV-8 has dual alternators for redundancy and this is supported by the VP-200 and shown as the "Pri Alt" and "Sec Alt" on the main display. Pascal, you should contact Vertical power and get the latest software update for the VP-200 (from early December 2011). It now supports full EMS data link from the Dynon Skyview so all of the Mode selection is fully automatic. You also get some of the primary engine instrument display on the VP-200 screen as well as a myriad of visual and audible engine annunciators. Works great. - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Vertical Power VP-200 and VP-X...
At 12:48 PM 12/31/2011 Saturday, Ralph Finch wrote: >Matt, what do you think about the VP-X? It's a lot cheaper but doesn't have the flight modes or extra display and thus requires all the switches still (just no circuit breakers). > >Ralph Finch >Davis The Vertical Power VP-X is definitely a step in the right direction for your typical Experimental aircraft electrical system. It also allows you to use standard small signal switches for even the largest of current circuits which saves space, weight, and money. If the VP-200 didn't exist, there is no question that I would use the VP-X for my Experimental nerve center. That being said, the VP-200 adds *so* much more functionality over the VP-X, I would always recommend it first. The VP-200 truly infuses 21st century technology with our Experimental aircraft. Given the quality and functionality it brings to the table, it is exceptionally well priced. If I were on a tight budget, I would forgo a second GPS, Comm, or EFIS display before I would sacrifice the functionality provided by the VP-200. The VP-200 rates a 5 out of 5 in my opinion. ( BTW, I don't get a kick back from Vertical Power; I'm just a very happy, satisfied and *repeat* customer. :-) ) - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Vertical Power VP-200 and VP-X...
Date: Dec 31, 2011
The only problem is that the VP-200 is end of life and out of stock. It's replacement, the VP-400 won't be formally announced until SnF. It's either wait or go VP-X. I concur that the VP-200 is a great piece of gear. I ended up going with the VP-X strictly due to budget reasons. Either way you can't go wrong. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 7:34 PM rv8-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Re: Speaking of Vertical Power VP-200 and VP-X... At 12:48 PM 12/31/2011 Saturday, Ralph Finch wrote: >Matt, what do you think about the VP-X? It's a lot cheaper but doesn't have the flight modes or extra display and thus requires all the switches still (just no circuit breakers). > >Ralph Finch >Davis The Vertical Power VP-X is definitely a step in the right direction for your typical Experimental aircraft electrical system. It also allows you to use standard small signal switches for even the largest of current circuits which saves space, weight, and money. If the VP-200 didn't exist, there is no question that I would use the VP-X for my Experimental nerve center. That being said, the VP-200 adds *so* much more functionality over the VP-X, I would always recommend it first. The VP-200 truly infuses 21st century technology with our Experimental aircraft. Given the quality and functionality it brings to the table, it is exceptionally well priced. If I were on a tight budget, I would forgo a second GPS, Comm, or EFIS display before I would sacrifice the functionality provided by the VP-200. The VP-200 rates a 5 out of 5 in my opinion. ( BTW, I don't get a kick back from Vertical Power; I'm just a very happy, satisfied and *repeat* customer. :-) ) - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Speaking of Vertical Power VP-200 and VP-X...
Date: Dec 31, 2011
Hi FWIW, I went the VP-X route out of choice. I like the integration with the AFS 4500 EFIS and didn't have the panel space for the VP-100 display. I have recently powered up the VP-X along with the EFIS and am very impressed with how well they are integrated. Whatever your choice, the VP gear is slick. Cheers Les -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: December-31-11 6:29 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Speaking of Vertical Power VP-200 and VP-X... The only problem is that the VP-200 is end of life and out of stock. It's replacement, the VP-400 won't be formally announced until SnF. It's either wait or go VP-X. I concur that the VP-200 is a great piece of gear. I ended up going with the VP-X strictly due to budget reasons. Either way you can't go wrong. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 7:34 PM rv8-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Re: Speaking of Vertical Power VP-200 and VP-X... At 12:48 PM 12/31/2011 Saturday, Ralph Finch wrote: >Matt, what do you think about the VP-X? It's a lot cheaper but doesn't >have the flight modes or extra display and thus requires all the switches still (just no circuit breakers). > >Ralph Finch >Davis The Vertical Power VP-X is definitely a step in the right direction for your typical Experimental aircraft electrical system. It also allows you to use standard small signal switches for even the largest of current circuits which saves space, weight, and money. If the VP-200 didn't exist, there is no question that I would use the VP-X for my Experimental nerve center. That being said, the VP-200 adds *so* much more functionality over the VP-X, I would always recommend it first. The VP-200 truly infuses 21st century technology with our Experimental aircraft. Given the quality and functionality it brings to the table, it is exceptionally well priced. If I were on a tight budget, I would forgo a second GPS, Comm, or EFIS display before I would sacrifice the functionality provided by the VP-200. The VP-200 rates a 5 out of 5 in my opinion. ( BTW, I don't get a kick back from Vertical Power; I'm just a very happy, satisfied and *repeat* customer. :-) ) - Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 48+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: LAX
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Jan 04, 2012
I'm flying into LAX this afternoon and leave tomorrow afternoon. Anybody in the area have any suggestions for a place to stay and/or words of wisdom for the city? Any projects near there? Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2012
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Aileron trailing edge
Hi all - I'm presently working on the trailing edge of my ailerons (please see jpg) and have noticed the VA-140 wedge extrusion is sticking out of the aileron skins by almost 1/16".- I obviously have not misplaced the extrusion as a ll holes are already punched.- This is not the case with the rudder, elev ators etc, as their skins are flush with the extrusion.- Joe at Vans was not concerned, but still I can't help but think the skins are a little shor t.- - Has anyone else run into this? - Regards,- - Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 04, 2012
Subject: Re: Aileron trailing edge
My QB ailerons look exactly the same. Still flies great! Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Wed, Jan 4, 2012 at 8:48 AM, Rick Lark wrote: > Hi all > > I'm presently working on the trailing edge of my ailerons (please see jpg) > and have noticed the VA-140 wedge extrusion is sticking out of the aileron > skins by almost 1/16". I obviously have not misplaced the extrusion as all > holes are already punched. This is not the case with the rudder, elevators > etc, as their skins are flush with the extrusion. Joe at Vans was not > concerned, but still I can't help but think the skins are a little short. > > Has anyone else run into this? > > Regards, > > Rick > #40956 > Southampton, Ont > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron trailing edge
I would start by measuring the edge-distance between the rivet holes and the edge. If they're good, on to the wedge - compare the edge distances on the wedge to the plans spec to make sure it's correct too. My .02....... Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> >Sent: Jan 4, 2012 11:48 AM >To: RV10-list >Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trailing edge > >Hi all > >I'm presently working on the trailing edge of my ailerons (please see jpg) and have noticed the VA-140 wedge extrusion is sticking out of the aileron skins by almost 1/16". I obviously have not misplaced the extrusion as all holes are already punched. This is not the case with the rudder, elevators etc, as their skins are flush with the extrusion. Joe at Vans was not concerned, but still I can't help but think the skins are a little short. > >Has anyone else run into this? > >Regards, > >Rick >#40956 >Southampton, Ont ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron trailing edge
Date: Jan 04, 2012
Mine had areas that were a little proud of T.E. Once riveted, just gently file down that sharp edge if you want. That way paint will adhere better, and when the little ones run there noggin into it, maybe it wont cut so bad. My boy went running around the airplane and just missed the aileron and hit the wing tip, knocked him off his feet but no lasting wounds. Thane 205. Hrs. N321BY ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Lark To: RV10-list Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 11:48 AM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trailing edge Hi all I'm presently working on the trailing edge of my ailerons (please see jpg) and have noticed the VA-140 wedge extrusion is sticking out of the aileron skins by almost 1/16". I obviously have not misplaced the extrusion as all holes are already punched. This is not the case with the rudder, elevators etc, as their skins are flush with the extrusion. Joe at Vans was not concerned, but still I can't help but think the skins are a little short. Has anyone else run into this? Regards, Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron trailing edge
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Jan 04, 2012
Just file the trailing edge down after you rivet it. That's not uncommon. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone On Jan 4, 2012, at 11:48 AM, Rick Lark wrote: > Hi all > > I'm presently working on the trailing edge of my ailerons (please see jpg) and have noticed the VA-140 wedge extrusion is sticking out of the aileron s kins by almost 1/16". I obviously have not misplaced the extrusion as all h oles are already punched. This is not the case with the rudder, elevators e tc, as their skins are flush with the extrusion. Joe at Vans was not concer ned, but still I can't help but think the skins are a little short. > > Has anyone else run into this? > > Regards, > > Rick > #40956 > Southampton, Ont > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron trailing edge
From: "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com>
Date: Jan 04, 2012
Hi, I just finished mine and they look just like yours. -------- RV-10 #40447 Fuselage almost done. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362403#362403 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Keep building...
Date: Jan 04, 2012
Happy New Year -10 List. Here are a few motivational photos in case you som etimes wonder what all the hard work leads to: Santa Barbara coast as sun sets [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Recent Flight Photos\Evening flight to SBP 1-3-12.jpg] Pismo Beach (Vanderburg AFB to the left) [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Recent Flight Photos\Pismo Beach Ret urnign home.jpg] Cross country flight Atlanta to California over Arizona. [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Recent Flight Photos\Returning from AR over AZ.jpg] Blurry pointless photo. Exactly how my panel looks without my glasses. :-) [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Recent Flight Photos\SAM_0560.JPG] Robin Just cracking 300 hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joseph Rhodes" <Joe(at)rvbuildernet.com>
Subject: RV 10 Empennage Kit for Sale
Date: Jan 04, 2012
RV 10 Empennage Kit for Sale Spring Hill Fl 34610 Building a RV12 $2750 See www.joesrv10.com Call 727-8569812 Thanks Joe Rhodes . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Keep building...
Date: Jan 04, 2012
Robin what is that thing in the lower right corner with the words "FLIGHT GUIDE" stamped on it J. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 1:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Keep building... Happy New Year -10 List. Here are a few motivational photos in case you sometimes wonder what all the hard work leads to: ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stefan Kothe" <stef601(at)att.net>
Subject: RV 10 Empennage Kit for Sale
Date: Jan 04, 2012
Did you start working on the kit, any photos, and how old? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Rhodes Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 2:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 Empennage Kit for Sale RV 10 Empennage Kit for Sale Spring Hill Fl 34610 Building a RV12 $2750 See www.joesrv10.com Call 727-8569812 Thanks Joe Rhodes . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Keep building...
Date: Jan 05, 2012
During the condition inspection this year we installed Geoff's interior (wh ich looks great) and ripped out a bunch of electronics I thought were a goo d idea to entertain the troops during long cross country flights. By first flight all that entertainment electronics were replaced with iPads. I proba bly removed 12 pounds worth of now useless A/V displays & support electroni cs. The single DIN in the panel was a pop up AM/FM/SAT/DVD (below). Once ju nked I had to fill the hole with something so I located a simple single DIN plug that acts like an open glove box perfect for filling with my now usel ess paper Flight Guide which has also been replaced by the iPad. Not sure w hat I will ultimately put in the glove box but for now it fills the vacant space. Maybe a couple of O2 cannulas? Old panel: [Description: http://www.painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Images/Panel/198 %5b2%5d.jpg] New panel: [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\RV 10 Build Photos\Glairshield\Glare shield cover 004.jpg] Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 3:04 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Keep building... Robin what is that thing in the lower right corner with the words "FLIGHT G UIDE" stamped on it :). From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 1:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Keep building... Happy New Year -10 List. Here are a few motivational photos in case you som etimes wonder what all the hard work leads to: ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Aileron trailing edge
Date: Jan 04, 2012
Way back when I think this question came up and word I got was one engineer designed the tail feathers and another designed the ailerons. Each had a different idea of how much the wedge should stick out. One thought a smidge the other thought none. It's all fine. -Chris Lucas #40072 Flying From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 11:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trailing edge Hi all I'm presently working on the trailing edge of my ailerons (please see jpg) and have noticed the VA-140 wedge extrusion is sticking out of the aileron skins by almost 1/16". I obviously have not misplaced the extrusion as all holes are already punched. This is not the case with the rudder, elevators etc, as their skins are flush with the extrusion. Joe at Vans was not concerned, but still I can't help but think the skins are a little short. Has anyone else run into this? Regards, Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2012
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Aileron trailing edge
Guys, thx for the feedback.- I will file the extrusion slightly to help k eep paint adhered to the trailing edge, and leave it at that. - Rick --- On Thu, 1/5/12, Chris wrote: From: Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron trailing edge Received: Thursday, January 5, 2012, 2:31 AM Way back when I think this question came up and word I got was one engineer designed the tail feathers and another designed the ailerons. Each had a d ifferent idea of how much the wedge should stick out. One thought a smidge the other thought none. It's all fine. -Chris Lucas #40072 Flying - From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 11:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trailing edge - Hi all - I'm presently working on the trailing edge of my ailerons (please see jpg) and have noticed the VA-140 wedge extrusion is sticking out of the aileron skins by almost 1/16".- I obviously have not misplaced the extrusion as a ll holes are already punched.- This is not the case with the rudder, elev ators etc, as their skins are flush with the extrusion.- Joe at Vans was not concerned, but still I can't help but think the skins are a little shor t.- - Has anyone else run into this? - Regards,- - Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Battery placement
Date: Jan 05, 2012
Hello everybody I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery to be placed in the tail. Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewhere? Regards Carlos Trigo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2012
From: speckter(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Battery placement
Most folks are putting it in the tail per the plans.=C2- It seems to be t he best place to make the CG come out where it needs to be. Gary Specketer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:18:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Battery placement Hello everybody =C2- I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery to be placed in the tail. =C2- Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewhere ? =C2- =C2- Regards ============== == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Battery placement
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jan 05, 2012
If you are building a standard Van's plane (IO-540 engine) you will probably find that the c.g. comes out on the forward side of the limits. Many find they need to carry some ballast in the back when flying solo. So leaving the battery in the back seems like a good idea. The only ones I have heard of who moved the battery forward were using alternative engines. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362500#362500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Battery placement
Date: Jan 05, 2012
In my case I am quite happy I DID leave it in that position. My W&B has me Fore of center and I need a good 50lbs in the tail while flying alone. Unless there is a good reason to move it elsewhere (not firewall forward is my suggestion) make sure you consider that Vans designed the plane around everything being where the plans state they should go so if you move the battery consider the W&B issue it can cause. Pascal From: Carlos Trigo Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 11:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: Battery placement Hello everybody I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery to be placed in the tail. Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewhere? Regards Carlos Trigo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Battery placement
Date: Jan 05, 2012
Go with the Van's position - assuming you are using a standard IO-540 engine. I put two Odyssey PC-625 batteries there by doing a simple mod to the supplied Van's battery holder. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 2:19 PM Subject: RV10-List: Battery placement Hello everybody I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery to be placed in the tail. Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewhere? Regards Carlos Trigo ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Battery placement
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 05, 2012
925/680 in back. Ewcg 1/2" aft of fwd limit. Extra 100 lbs in baggage makes for easier landings, lighter in pitch, and 4 kts higher cruise when solo. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 Bldr# 40983SB Started 12/1/2009 N715WD Flying 12/1/2011. Paint 2012. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362544#362544 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: AMSAFE inertial reel seat belts-4 point
Date: Jan 06, 2012
Just a heads-up. I have received several information requests for the belts after I removed the site from the web; the belts can still be ordered but I declined to renew the website URL due inactivity. If you have questions just email me directly or call me on 480-626-4048. David McNeill N46007 530TT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: AMSAFE inertial reel seat belts-4 point
Date: Jan 06, 2012
David, if you want I will post your site on my site and people could reference it. Just let know. You could just send me your old files and I will post. Thanks for all the help you gave me when I was doing mine...I love the belts. Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 12:31 PM Subject: RV10-List: AMSAFE inertial reel seat belts-4 point Just a heads-up. I have received several information requests for the belts after I removed the site from the web; the belts can still be ordered but I declined to renew the website URL due inactivity. If you have questions just email me directly or call me on 480-626-4048. David McNeill N46007 530TT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2012
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Door Half Index Holes
Anyone else have the top two index holes in the door halves not line up? On mine the bottom two and the fore and aft index holes line up fine but the top two do not. I clecoed the fore and aft index holes to the fuselage on the cabin top along with the bottom two window index holes. They all line up fine. I am thinking I can just leave the bottom two clecoed to the fuse and keep the bottom two window index holes clecoed and clamp them together tight and re-drill the top two index holes? Thanks, Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Door Half Index Holes
Date: Jan 06, 2012
Hi Sean I had the same problem. I just created new holes after I aligned the halves. Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone On 2012-01-06, at 2:16 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > Anyone else have the top two index holes in the door halves not line up? On mine the bottom two and the fore and aft index holes line up fine but the top two do not. I clecoed the fore and aft index holes to the fuselage on the cabin top along with the bottom two window index holes. They all line up fine. > > I am thinking I can just leave the bottom two clecoed to the fuse and keep the bottom two window index holes clecoed and clamp them together tight and re-drill the top two index holes? > > Thanks, > > Sean #40303 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2012
Subject: Re: Door Half Index Holes
From: John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com>
I would treat the index holes as approximations, mine lined up, but I have heard and read of lots of people having issues with those not lining up. Get the mated the way you want and just re-drill the holes. If this is your first venture in to the fiberglass work envolved in the RV-10 hold on, the ride is going to get worse before it gets better. On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > Anyone else have the top two index holes in the door halves not line up? On > mine the bottom two and the fore and aft index holes line up fine but the > top two do not. I clecoed the fore and aft index holes to the fuselage on > the cabin top along with the bottom two window index holes. They all line > up fine. > > I am thinking I can just leave the bottom two clecoed to the fuse and keep > the bottom two window index holes clecoed and clamp them together tight and > re-drill the top two index holes? > > Thanks, > > Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2012
Subject: Re: Door Half Index Holes
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
I used the two index holes near the bottom of the door (I believe they're near where the door pins will be). I used two clecos in those holes to hold the door to the fuselage, then drilled new holes. If I'd used the actual index holes at the top, the door would have been very twisted. -Rob On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 2:09 PM, John Trollinger wrote: > > I would treat the index holes as approximations, mine lined up, but I > have heard and read of lots of people having issues with those not > lining up. Get the mated the way you want and just re-drill the > holes. > > If this is your first venture in to the fiberglass work envolved in > the RV-10 hold on, the ride is going to get worse before it gets > better. > > > On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Sean Stephens > wrote: > > > > Anyone else have the top two index holes in the door halves not line up? > On > > mine the bottom two and the fore and aft index holes line up fine but the > > top two do not. I clecoed the fore and aft index holes to the fuselage > on > > the cabin top along with the bottom two window index holes. They all > line > > up fine. > > > > I am thinking I can just leave the bottom two clecoed to the fuse and > keep > > the bottom two window index holes clecoed and clamp them together tight > and > > re-drill the top two index holes? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Sean #40303 > > > > > > > > > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2012
Subject: Re: Door Half Index Holes
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
They're far from perfect. Just slide the two halves together and get the best possible fit, then drill your own reference holes. On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 4:09 PM, John Trollinger wrote: > > I would treat the index holes as approximations, mine lined up, but I > have heard and read of lots of people having issues with those not > lining up. Get the mated the way you want and just re-drill the > holes. > > If this is your first venture in to the fiberglass work envolved in > the RV-10 hold on, the ride is going to get worse before it gets > better. > > > On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Sean Stephens > wrote: > > > > Anyone else have the top two index holes in the door halves not line up? > On > > mine the bottom two and the fore and aft index holes line up fine but the > > top two do not. I clecoed the fore and aft index holes to the fuselage > on > > the cabin top along with the bottom two window index holes. They all > line > > up fine. > > > > I am thinking I can just leave the bottom two clecoed to the fuse and > keep > > the bottom two window index holes clecoed and clamp them together tight > and > > re-drill the top two index holes? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Sean #40303 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Trimming Cabin top
From: "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com>
Date: Jan 07, 2012
I've got everything trimmed except the area around the left door. The bottom of the left door opening looks like it needs to be trimmed another 1/8 in? This will allow the top to drop the 1/8 in needed in the area just behind the door. My concern is making the area on the bottom of the door too thin. Perhaps I'm overly concerned, since there will be filling done in that area. Looking for ideas from those who have been through this, already. Thanks Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362654#362654 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1470_208.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1469_562.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 07, 2012
Subject: Re: Trimming Cabin top
How thin will it end up if you take off that last 1/8"? There's not much if any of the vertical flange left by the time you're done. You may even end up taking off material from the bottom of the horizontal portion, that is, the section with the bevel on the outboard edge. Look at the entire surface across the bottom where the cabin cover bolts to the door sill and make sure you don't have a high spot that's interfering and keeping the cover from settling down to onto the sill. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 5:47 AM, billz wrote: > > I've got everything trimmed except the area around the left door. The > bottom of the left door opening looks like it needs to be trimmed another > 1/8 in? This will allow the top to drop the 1/8 in needed in the area just > behind the door. My concern is making the area on the bottom of the door > too thin. Perhaps I'm overly concerned, since there will be filling done > in that area. > > Looking for ideas from those who have been through this, already. > Thanks > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362654#362654 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1470_208.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1469_562.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
Date: Jan 07, 2012
Folks Thanks everybody for all the answers about the Battery placement. I will surely follow the plans, and keep the battery (or batteries) in the tail. Now, another thread was suggested within the answers, which is Ballast. Further having the battery in the tail, some -10 flyers (with IO540) seem to be using ballast in the tail, when flying solo. I heard of something like 50 Lbs.. How is this ballast materialised? What is the solution everybody uses? Carlos _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of speckter(at)comcast.net Sent: quinta-feira, 5 de Janeiro de 2012 20:03 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery placement Most folks are putting it in the tail per the plans. It seems to be the best place to make the CG come out where it needs to be. Gary Specketer _____ From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:18:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Battery placement Hello everybody I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery to be placed in the tail. Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewhere? Regards Carlos Trigo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 07, 2012
Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
I keep a 24-pound survival kit back there, plus a light cover and the towbar, maybe another 5. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote : > ** > > Folks**** > > ** ** > > Thanks everybody for all the answers about the **Battery** placement.**** > > I will surely follow the plans, and keep the battery (or batteries) in th e > tail.**** > > ** ** > > Now, another thread was suggested within the answers, which is Ballast.** * > * > > Further having the battery in the tail, some -10 flyers (with IO540) seem > to be using ballast in the tail, when flying solo. I heard of something > like 50 Lbs. **** > > How is this ballast materialised? What is the solution everybody uses?*** * > > ** ** > > Carlos**** > > ** ** > > ** ** > ------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *speckter(at)comcast.net > *Sent:* quinta-feira, 5 de Janeiro de 2012 20:03 > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: **Battery** placement**** > > ** ** > > Most folks are putting it in the tail per the plans. It seems to be the > best place to make the CG come out where it needs to be.**** > > **** > > Gary Specketer**** > ------------------------------ > > *From: *"Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> > *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent: *Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:18:50 PM > *Subject: *RV10-List: Battery placement**** > > Hello everybody**** > > **** > > I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10.**** > > Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery t o > be placed in the tail.**** > > **** > > Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery > elsewhere?**** > > **** > > **** > > Regards**** > > Carlos Trigo**** > > * * > > * * > > * * > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
Date: Jan 07, 2012
Carlos, I use 2 25lb lead shot bags. Alan N668G From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 1:15 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement) Folks Thanks everybody for all the answers about the Battery placement. I will surely follow the plans, and keep the battery (or batteries) in the tail. Now, another thread was suggested within the answers, which is Ballast. Further having the battery in the tail, some -10 flyers (with IO540) seem to be using ballast in the tail, when flying solo. I heard of something like 50 Lbs.. How is this ballast materialised? What is the solution everybody uses? Carlos _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of speckter(at)comcast.net Sent: quinta-feira, 5 de Janeiro de 2012 20:03 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery placement Most folks are putting it in the tail per the plans. It seems to be the best place to make the CG come out where it needs to be. Gary Specketer _____ From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:18:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Battery placement Hello everybody I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery to be placed in the tail. Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewhere? Regards Carlos Trigo ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jan 07, 2012
I keep 2 cases of water. Then if I get thirsty , I'm all set. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 7, 2012, at 12:55 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > I keep a 24-pound survival kit back there, plus a light cover and the towb ar, maybe another 5. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Carlos Trigo wrot e: > Folks > > > > Thanks everybody for all the answers about the Battery placement. > > I will surely follow the plans, and keep the battery (or batteries) in the tail. > > > > Now, another thread was suggested within the answers, which is Ballast. > > Further having the battery in the tail, some -10 flyers (with IO540) seem t o be using ballast in the tail, when flying solo. I heard of something like 5 0 Lbs. > > How is this ballast materialised? What is the solution everybody uses? > > > > Carlos > > > > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of speckter(at)comcast.net > Sent: quinta-feira, 5 de Janeiro de 2012 20:03 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery placement > > > > Most folks are putting it in the tail per the plans. It seems to be the b est place to make the CG come out where it needs to be. > > > > Gary Specketer > > From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:18:50 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Battery placement > > Hello everybody > > > > I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. > > Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery to be placed in the tail. > > > > Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewher e? > > > > > > Regards > > Carlos Trigo > > > > > > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
Date: Jan 07, 2012
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Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jan 07, 2012
I keep a tool box back there. Note, you want to be able to remove the extra weight. The -10 is not like a 182, where it is nearly impossible to be out of cg. I'm a lighter pilot (160 lbs) and need 20 lbs in the cargo area when solo. But if I really want to load the plane up to gross, the cg can go too far aft (especially at zero fuel) unless I'm careful. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362673#362673 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jan 07, 2012
Ditto except for me it's not often I'm solo....but I don't add anything when solo and it's perfectly fine. Tim On Jan 7, 2012, at 2:31 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > I initially flew with some ballast in back. At some point ~50 hours in I r emoved the additional weight to fly fully loaded and never put the ballast b ack. I fly with maybe 15# of tools and hardware back there and never have an issue with forward weight. 90% of my flying is solo. > > Robin > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus > Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 11:51 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement) > > I keep 2 cases of water. Then if I get thirsty , I'm all set. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 7, 2012, at 12:55 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > I keep a 24-pound survival kit back there, plus a light cover and the towb ar, maybe another 5. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Carlos Trigo wrot e: > Folks > > Thanks everybody for all the answers about the Battery placement. > I will surely follow the plans, and keep the battery (or batteries) in the tail. > > Now, another thread was suggested within the answers, which is Ballast. > Further having the battery in the tail, some -10 flyers (with IO540) seem t o be using ballast in the tail, when flying solo. I heard of something like 5 0 Lbs. > How is this ballast materialised? What is the solution everybody uses? > > Carlos > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of speckter(at)comcast.net > Sent: quinta-feira, 5 de Janeiro de 2012 20:03 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery placement > > Most folks are putting it in the tail per the plans. It seems to be the b est place to make the CG come out where it needs to be. > > > > Gary Specketer > > From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:18:50 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Battery placement > > Hello everybody > > I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. > Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery to be placed in the tail. > > Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewher e? > > > Regards > Carlos Trigo > > > > > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > > ========================= ========= > ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========================= ========= > cs.com > ========================= ========= > matronics.com/contribution > ========================= ========= > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > )=EF=BD=EF=BD=DF=A2{l=EF=BD7=EF=BDr=EF=BDh=EF=BDM4=EF =BDM=1Fi=C7=9C=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD .=EF=BD'=EF=BDN=17=EF=BDW]=0B=EF=BD=EF=BDD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BD=16=EF=BD=EF=BDK=1E=EF=BD=17=EF=BDj=EF=BD=EF=BD',.+- =15=E6=AD=BA=EF=BD=EF=BD5=EF=BD=81=ABh=EF=BD=EF=BD=1B=EF =BD=EF=BD,z=EF=BD^=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD.+-=EF=BD=D8=A5=EF=BD =D8=9E=EF=BD=CB=9C=EF=BD=EF=BD=0B=EF=BD=EF=BDT=EF=BD=EF =BDn=EF=BD+=EF=BD=EF=BDb=EF=BDp+r=18=EF=BDy'=EF=BD=EF=BD =EF=BDC=EF=BD =E5=A1=A7{ =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD,x(Z =EF=BDP=10>=1A-=EF=BD=EF=BDZ=EF=BD=EF=BDvk=EF=BD=EF=BDk =EF=BD=EF=BDj+y=EF=BDky=EF=BDm=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD =0C&j=EF=BD=EF=BD',r=EF=BD=EF=BD5=EF=BD=81=ABh=EF=BD=15 u=D0=B8=EF=BD=EF=BD=1Bm=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD =EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BD'=EF=BD=EF=BD=1C=EF=BDo=EF=BDj=EF=BDj =EF=BD+E]t.+-=EF=BDM=13=EF=BD $=EF=BD=10=11NEC=12I=EF=BD=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD'=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD j[(j=EF=BD=EF=BDz=EF=BD=17=EF=BDy=EF=BDh=EF=BD=EF=BDj=1A =EF=BD~=1Bm=EF=BD=EF=BD=DF=A2=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDf=EF=BD=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BDr=EF=BD(=EF=BD=1Bm=EF=BD=EF=BD=DF=A2=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BDf=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDr=EF=BD(=EF=BD =EF=BD=EF=BDB=EF=BD{k=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BDy=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDjy2=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BD*.=EF=BD=07=EF=BDz=EF=BD.=EF=BD=CB=A9=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BD1=EF=BDm=0E=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=1D =EF=BD)=DA=86=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDi=EF=BD=EF=BD0=EF =BDf=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDr=EF=BD(=EF=BD=EF=BD(=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BDn=EF=BDb=EF=BDxm=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BD=0C&j=EF=BD=EF=BD',r=EF=BD=EF=BDr=EF=BD=EF=BD&=EF=BD *'=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD'=EF=BD=EF=BDk{=EF=BD=EF=BD w/=EF=BDi ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 07, 2012
Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
That or a collapsible 5 gal water jug should do the trick. Nothing to lose when you want to shed the weight. On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 12:50 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > I keep 2 cases of water. Then if I get thirsty , I'm all set. > > > On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Carlos Trigo wrot e: > >> ** >> >> Folks**** >> >> ** ** >> >> Thanks everybody for all the answers about the **Battery** placement.*** * >> >> I will surely follow the plans, and keep the battery (or batteries) in >> the tail.**** >> >> ** ** >> >> Now, another thread was suggested within the answers, which is Ballast.* * >> ** >> >> Further having the battery in the tail, some -10 flyers (with IO540) see m >> to be using ballast in the tail, when flying solo. I heard of something >> like 50 Lbs=85. **** >> >> How is this ballast materialised? What is the solution everybody uses?** * >> * >> >> ** ** >> >> Carlos**** >> >> ** ** >> >> ** ** >> ------------------------------ >> >> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: >> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *speckter(at)comcast.ne t >> *Sent:* quinta-feira, 5 de Janeiro de 2012 20:03 >> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: **Battery** placement**** >> >> ** ** >> >> Most folks are putting it in the tail per the plans. It seems to be the >> best place to make the CG come out where it needs to be.**** >> >> **** >> >> Gary Specketer**** >> ------------------------------ >> >> *From: *"Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> >> *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> *Sent: *Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:18:50 PM >> *Subject: *RV10-List: Battery placement**** >> >> Hello everybody**** >> >> **** >> >> I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10.**** >> >> Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery >> to be placed in the tail.**** >> >> **** >> >> Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery >> elsewhere?**** >> >> **** >> >> **** >> >> Regards**** >> >> Carlos Trigo**** >> >> * * >> >> * * >> >> * * >> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> * >> >> > * > > ======================== > ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ======================== ===========cs.com > ======================== ===========matronics.com/contribution > ======================== > * > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
From: "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Jan 07, 2012
As Robin and Tim said Ditto for me Geoff Sent from my iPhone Geoff On Jan 7, 2012, at 4:15 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > Ditto except for me it's not often I'm solo....but I don't add anything wh en solo and it's perfectly fine. > Tim > > > On Jan 7, 2012, at 2:31 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > >> I initially flew with some ballast in back. At some point ~50 hours in I r emoved the additional weight to fly fully loaded and never put the ballast b ack. I fly with maybe 15# of tools and hardware back there and never have an issue with forward weight. 90% of my flying is solo. >> >> Robin >> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server @matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus >> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 11:51 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement) >> >> I keep 2 cases of water. Then if I get thirsty , I'm all set. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jan 7, 2012, at 12:55 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: >> >> I keep a 24-pound survival kit back there, plus a light cover and the tow bar, maybe another 5. >> >> Dave Saylor >> AirCrafters >> 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 95076 >> 831-722-9141 Shop >> 831-750-0284 Cell >> >> >> On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Carlos Trigo wro te: >> Folks >> >> Thanks everybody for all the answers about the Battery placement. >> I will surely follow the plans, and keep the battery (or batteries) in th e tail. >> >> Now, another thread was suggested within the answers, which is Ballast. >> Further having the battery in the tail, some -10 flyers (with IO540) seem to be using ballast in the tail, when flying solo. I heard of something lik e 50 Lbs. >> How is this ballast materialised? What is the solution everybody uses? >> >> Carlos >> >> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server (at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of speckter(at)comcast.net >> Sent: quinta-feira, 5 de Janeiro de 2012 20:03 >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery placement >> >> Most folks are putting it in the tail per the plans. It seems to be the b est place to make the CG come out where it needs to be. >> >> >> >> Gary Specketer >> >> From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:18:50 PM >> Subject: RV10-List: Battery placement >> >> Hello everybody >> >> I am helping a buddy who is beginning the construction of a -10. >> Reading the Manual, I became aware that the plans determine the battery t o be placed in the tail. >> >> Has everybody gone this way, or did any of you placed the battery elsewhe re? >> >> >> Regards >> Carlos Trigo >> >> >> >> >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> >> >> >> ========================= ========= >> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========================= ========= >> cs.com >> ========================= ========= >> matronics.com/contribution >> ========================= ========= >> >> >> >> ========================= ============= 10-List Email Forum - p> o:p> or?RV1 0-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ======== ========================== ==== sp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - p> p://forums.matronics.com = ========================== =========== sp; - List Contribution Web Site - > sp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ution">http://www.matronics.com/ contribution ===================== ================ >> >> )=EF=BD=EF=BD=DF=A2{l=EF=BD7=EF=BDr=EF=BDh=EF=BDM4=EF =BDM=1Fi=C7=9C=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD .=EF=BD'=EF=BDN=17=EF=BDW]=0B=EF=BD=EF=BDD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BD=16=EF=BD=EF=BDK=1E=EF=BD=17=EF=BDj=EF=BD=EF=BD',.+- =15=E6=AD=BA=EF=BD=EF=BD5=EF=BD=81=ABh=EF=BD=EF=BD=1B=EF =BD=EF=BD,z=EF=BD^=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD.+-=EF=BD=D8=A5=EF=BD =D8=9E=EF=BD=CB=9C=EF=BD=EF=BD=0B=EF=BD=EF=BDT=EF=BD=EF =BDn=EF=BD+=EF=BD=EF=BDb=EF=BDp+r=18=EF=BDy'=EF=BD=EF=BD =EF=BDC=EF=BD =E5=A1=A7{ =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD,x(Z =EF=BDP=10>=1A-=EF=BD=EF=BDZ=EF=BD=EF=BDvk=EF=BD=EF=BDk =EF=BD=EF=BDj+y=EF=BDky=EF=BDm=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD =0C&j=EF=BD=EF=BD',r=EF=BD=EF=BD5=EF=BD=81=ABh=EF=BD=15 u=D0=B8=EF=BD=EF=BD=1Bm=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD =EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BD'=EF=BD=EF=BD=1C=EF=BDo=EF=BDj=EF=BDj =EF=BD+E]t.+-=EF=BDM=13=EF=BD $=EF=BD=10=11NEC=12I=EF=BD=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD'=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD j[(j=EF=BD=EF=BDz=EF=BD=17=EF=BDy=EF=BDh=EF=BD=EF=BDj=1A =EF=BD~=1Bm=EF=BD=EF=BD=DF=A2=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDf=EF=BD=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BDr=EF=BD(=EF=BD=1Bm=EF=BD=EF=BD=DF=A2=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BDf=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDr=EF=BD(=EF=BD =EF=BD=EF=BDB=EF=BD{k=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BDy=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDjy2=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BD*.=EF=BD=07=EF=BDz=EF=BD.=EF=BD=CB=A9=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BD1=EF=BDm=0E=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=1D =EF=BD)=DA=86=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDi=EF=BD=EF=BD0=EF =BDf=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDr=EF=BD(=EF=BD=EF=BD(=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BDn=EF=BDb=EF=BDxm=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF =BD=0C&j=EF=BD=EF=BD',r=EF=BD=EF=BDr=EF=BD=EF=BD&=EF=BD *'=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD'=EF=BD=EF=BDk{=EF=BD=EF=BD w/=EF=BDi > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: belts
Date: Jan 07, 2012
Since I allowed the URL for the AMSAFE belts to lapse, I have received several inquiries for the installation info. The info has been added to another builder's site. As needed the list can access the data at http://www.n423cf.com/belts/index.html . The belts are still available but are special order for color, type and size. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Re: Trimming Cabin top
Date: Jan 08, 2012
Man you guys with the pink tops sure have it nice. I was laughing to myself on the index mark conversation earlier that I couldn't even see 3 of the marks on. Y doors. :-) Michael On Jan 7, 2012, at 8:14 AM, "billz" wrote: > > I've got everything trimmed except the area around the left door. The bottom of the left door opening looks like it needs to be trimmed another 1/8 in? This will allow the top to drop the 1/8 in needed in the area just behind the door. My concern is making the area on the bottom of the door too thin. Perhaps I'm overly concerned, since there will be filling done in that area. > > Looking for ideas from those who have been through this, already. > Thanks > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362654#362654 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1470_208.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1469_562.jpg > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trimming Cabin top
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 08, 2012
It's hard to tell because the pictures are way too big. From what I can tell, you are safe to cut that 1/8". John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362725#362725 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Tail Ballast (was Battery placement)
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 08, 2012
I need some ballast when flying solo. The big issue is during Phase One. After that, tools and baggage suffice. I used a ShurTrax 100 lb "traction aide" from Summit racing. The tiedown eyelets on the corners fit great with my Van's tie down fittings. And, you can dump the water when you're done. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPK-CLW0036/ It definitely flies better with weight in the back, more stick authority and less trim. My "Most Aft CG" calculation exceeds max gross before the CG hits 116.24 inches. The only way I could hit 116.24" is to have a 5 year old in the right seat, fuel down to 10 gallons, and the back loaded to max gross. That would require two 250 pounders and max baggage. Sounds like a "fun" trip...(g). John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362727#362727 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Air box support
Date: Jan 08, 2012
All, I had three air box top plates crack on my RV-8A. I solved the problem by adding a support bracket to keep the box from bouncing around (the prop was dynamically balanced). I did the same for the RV-10. The RV-10 air box is modified to take the taller K&N E-1000 air filter - the modification is simply to invert the air box cover. This box is also modified to fit the James Cowl. Forwarded for your information. Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: L06
Date: Jan 09, 2012
I will be flying the RV10 to L06 in March and tying outside. I understand that I must bring my own tie downs but what is the predominate direction of the heavy wind. I have always tied into the wind; any reason to tie some other direction? I have heavy duty control locks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternator trouble
From: Marcus Cooper <coop85(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jan 09, 2012
I was flying home today when the alternator started to give up the ghost. It was off most of the time and then about every 25 seconds would power up for a couple seconds and then shut off again. Finally there was nothing. I have an engine from Aerosport Power and (I think) the Lamar 40 amp alternator. Just curious if these symptoms are of anything other than the need to get a new alternator. Since the regulator is internal I'm guessing there's no fixing just that. Any ideas before I just swap it out would be appreciated. Thanks, Marcus 40286 540 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Alternator trouble
Date: Jan 09, 2012
The alternator should last the life of the engine; my Plane Power shorted at about 350 hours and they warranted for no charge exchange. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 11:19 AM Subject: RV10-List: Alternator trouble I was flying home today when the alternator started to give up the ghost. It was off most of the time and then about every 25 seconds would power up for a couple seconds and then shut off again. Finally there was nothing. I have an engine from Aerosport Power and (I think) the Lamar 40 amp alternator. Just curious if these symptoms are of anything other than the need to get a new alternator. Since the regulator is internal I'm guessing there's no fixing just that. Any ideas before I just swap it out would be appreciated. Thanks, Marcus 40286 540 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 2012
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator trouble
Although my eninge has 2 B&C alternators, I would strongly recommend anythi ng that Plane Power/SkyTech have to sell.- After moving from Calif to Tex as, and now having neighbors who either own the company, or work there, you only then really know the individuals behind the company.- Great people, great service, great products.=0ADon McDonald=0A =0A=0A___________________ _____________=0A From: Marcus Cooper <coop85(at)verizon.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@m atronics.com =0ASent: Monday, January 9, 2012 12:18 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List coop85(at)verizon.net>=0A=0AI was flying home today when the alternator starte d to give up the ghost.- It was off most of the time and then about every 25 seconds would power up for a couple seconds and then shut off again.- Finally there was nothing.- I have an engine from Aerosport Power and (I think) the Lamar 40 amp alternator.- Just curious if these symptoms are of anything other than the need to get a new alternator.- Since the regul ator is internal I'm guessing there's no fixing just that.- Any ideas bef ore I just swap it out would be appreciated. =0A=0AThanks,=0AMarcus=0A40286 ================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator trouble
Date: Jan 09, 2012
I agree. As Don is very well aware, they came through for me and did everything possible to get me the replacement starter, even before I mentioned I knew Don. They stood by the product and covered it under warranty. On a separate note. I just had an issue with my fuel pump. Don at Airflow called me on a weekend on New Year=99s to talk through my issue. It was a non issue to send it back and he would either =9Cfix or replace it=9D. Turns out I had a loose wire and was able to get it working again without needing to ship back but the customer service at Airflow, as it was with Sky-tec was first rate. Pascal From: Don McDonald Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 12:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternator trouble Although my eninge has 2 B&C alternators, I would strongly recommend anything that Plane Power/SkyTech have to sell. After moving from Calif to Texas, and now having neighbors who either own the company, or work there, you only then really know the individuals behind the company. Great people, great service, great products. Don McDonald From: Marcus Cooper <coop85(at)verizon.net> Sent: Monday, January 9, 2012 12:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Alternator trouble I was flying home today when the alternator started to give up the ghost. It was off most of the time and then about every 25 seconds would power up for a couple seconds and then shut off again. Finally there was nothing. I have an engine from Aerosport Power and (I think) the Lamar 40 amp alternator. Just curious if these symptoms are of anything other than the need to get a new alternator. Since the regulator is internal I'm guessing there's no fixing just that. Any ideas before I just swap it out would be appreciated. Thanks, Marcus 40286 540 hoursatures Navigator to //www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matrosp; -Matt Dralle, List Adm ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: L06
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 09, 2012
Prevailing winds in the winter come from the north, and prevailing winds in the summer come from the south. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 Bldr# 40983SB Started 12/1/2009 N715WD Flying 12/1/2011. Paint 2012. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362903#362903 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternator trouble
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 10, 2012
An intermittent operation is an odd failure mechanism for an alternator. It is possible that you have just a bad connection. Check the field wire for something loose. It should run from your distribution bus via a CB or fuse to the F connection on the alternator. With the master on also verify that your are getting 12 volts to the alternator field connection. Check the tightness of the other connections and if everything checks out fine, then a new alternator may be in your future. They only cost a few hundred bucks and are not worth repairing. I agree with Don - if you need a new one contact PlanePower. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - Working G3X panel Rest almost done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362924#362924 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 2012
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator trouble
On 1/10/2012 9:26 AM, nukeflyboy wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "nukeflyboy" > > An intermittent operation is an odd failure mechanism for an alternator. It is possible that you have just a bad connection. Check the field wire for something loose. Good catch. When checking the field wire attached to the alternator, pull smartly on the wire ..... I've found field wires that fractured inside the insulation ....... then the arcing burns the wire back to the point where it won't arc over anymore. The connection looks good, but it isn't. I had forgotten that. Linn > It should run from your distribution bus via a CB or fuse to the F connection on the alternator. With the master on also verify that your are getting 12 volts to the alternator field connection. > > Check the tightness of the other connections and if everything checks out fine, then a new alternator may be in your future. They only cost a few hundred bucks and are not worth repairing. > > I agree with Don - if you need a new one contact PlanePower. > > -------- > Dave Moore > RV-6 flying > RV-10 QB - Working G3X panel > Rest almost done > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362924#362924 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 2012
From: curtis groote <cgroote1(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: alternator trouble
My Plane Power alternator went out at 376 hours. -Had to pay for a new on e; .i.e., wasn't offered any type of exchange. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Re: alternator trouble
Date: Jan 10, 2012
Heard today PP alternators mad in China; distributed here. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of curtis groote Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 8:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: alternator trouble My Plane Power alternator went out at 376 hours. Had to pay for a new one; .i.e., wasn't offered any type of exchange. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Window Glue
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Jan 10, 2012
I would like to let everyone know that Aerosport Products will be stocking the Lord 7545 A/E urethane adhesive for gluing in the windows. I will over it in a packaged kit of 3 200ML cartridges and 3 extra tips for $130.00 plus shipping. You can by separate 200ML cartriges for $45.00. 3 packages should be plenty to do all windows and a little more. Extra tips will be 1.75 each. I will also have to dispensing guns available for rent for $10.00. This adhesive is also good for glueing the cabin top door frame to the aluminum fuselage. It will be available thru direct order only no online ordering at this time. We have material in stock Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Flying 40033 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362984#362984 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Slick magneto inspection
Date: Jan 10, 2012
Anyone performing the 500 hour inspection SB ? I know that 135 operators are required but in the "good" old days magnetos went to 1500-2000 hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Slick magneto inspection
For Slick magnetos it is highly recommended. From what I have seen the inards are not as durable as a Bendix. Since you can do it yourself, all you need is points, condenser, and the correct lube. IIRC Slick even has tools to ensure you get the E gap correct, etc. In turbo-ed motors with pressurized Slicks they often don't make 500 hours. On 1/10/2012 5:14 PM, DLM wrote: > > Anyone performing the 500 hour inspection SB ? I know that 135 > operators are required but in the good old days magnetos went to > 1500-2000 hours. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 11, 2012
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Slick magneto inspection
Timely post. I just packaged my O-235 Slicks up and am sending them to thes e folks: http://www.aircraftmagnetoservices.com/ David Clifford RV-10 Builder Howell, MI ----- Original Message ----- From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 7:14:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Slick magneto inspection Anyone performing the 500 hour inspection SB ? I know that 135 operators ar e required but in the =9Cgood=9D old days magnetos went to 1500 ============== == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Slick magneto inspection
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 11, 2012
It seems that every time I have a mag failure it is around 500hrs, so I don' t skip the inspections. I think you'd be very lucky to get 1500 hrs without d oing anything. Kevin Belue RV-10 RV-6A Sent from my iPhone On Jan 10, 2012, at 6:14 PM, "DLM" wrote: > Anyone performing the 500 hour inspection SB ? I know that 135 operators a re required but in the =9Cgood=9D old days magnetos went to 1500 -2000 hours. > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 11, 2012
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Slick magneto inspection
No advice, but I watched a good EAA Webinar on magnetos last week. http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1367499350001 I have little to no experience with the items in front of the stainless so I am trying to learn all I can before the engine arrives. -Sean #40303 (prepping for IFR checkride, nerves frayed :) ) On 1/11/12 8:11 AM, Kevin Belue wrote: > It seems that every time I have a mag failure it is around 500hrs, so > I don't skip the inspections. I think you'd be very lucky to get 1500 > hrs without doing anything. > > Kevin Belue > RV-10 > RV-6A > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 10, 2012, at 6:14 PM, "DLM" > wrote: > >> Anyone performing the 500 hour inspection SB ? I know that 135 >> operators are required but in the good old days magnetos went to >> 1500-2000 hours. >> >> * >> >> ================================== >> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ================================== >> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> ================================== >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ================================== >> >> * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Slick magneto inspection
Date: Jan 11, 2012
I watched the EAA Webinar on magnetos last week as well. It was very informative. I learned a lot about magnetos, and will definitely be sending mine out for IRAN at 500 hours. I also would not consider doing it myself or having the local A&P do it after attending the webinar. For me, a certified magneto shop is the way to go. David Maib RV-10 40559 Flying On Jan 11, 2012, at 9:41 AM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > > No advice, but I watched a good EAA Webinar on magnetos last week. > > http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1367499350001 > > I have little to no experience with the items in front of the > stainless so I am trying to learn all I can before the engine arrives. > > -Sean #40303 (prepping for IFR checkride, nerves frayed :) ) > > On 1/11/12 8:11 AM, Kevin Belue wrote: >> It seems that every time I have a mag failure it is around 500hrs, >> so I don't skip the inspections. I think you'd be very lucky to >> get 1500 hrs without doing anything. >> >> Kevin Belue >> RV-10 >> RV-6A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jan 10, 2012, at 6:14 PM, "DLM" > > wrote: >> >>> Anyone performing the 500 hour inspection SB ? I know that 135 >>> operators are required but in the good old days magnetos went >>> to 1500-2000 hours. >>> >>> * >>> >>> ================================== >>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http:// >>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> ================================== >>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >>> ================================== >>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ >>> contribution >>> ================================== >>> >>> * >> * >> >> >> * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 11, 2012
Subject: Re: Slick magneto inspection
From: John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com>
Yes. Too much of the Slick component need attention before 1000 hours. Bendix were built like a tank and "seemed" to go longer. Lighter weight and more frequent checks for wear. Not withstanding that bad set of carbon contacts a few years ago "as found new" on Slicks. Trust but verify not later than 500. Retiming annually is the minor adjustment for normal wear. John On Jan 11, 2012 6:27 AM, "Kevin Belue" wrote: > It seems that every time I have a mag failure it is around 500hrs, so I > don't skip the inspections. I think you'd be very lucky to get 1500 hrs > without doing anything. > > Kevin Belue > RV-10 > RV-6A > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 10, 2012, at 6:14 PM, "DLM" wrote: > > Anyone performing the 500 hour inspection SB ? I know that 135 operators > are required but in the =93good=94 old days magnetos went to 1500-2000 ho urs. > **** > > * > > ======================== > ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List > ======================== ===========ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics .com > ======================== ===========http://www.matronics.com/contribution">htt p://www.matronics.com/contribution > ======================== > * > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 11, 2012
From: Dan Masys <dmasys(at)u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Slick magneto inspection
> From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick magneto inspection > > Timely post. I just packaged my O-235 Slicks up and am sending them to thes > e folks: http://www.aircraftmagnetoservices.com/ > > David Clifford > RV-10 Builder > Howell, MI Aircraft Magneto Services is in our neighborhood here in the Pacific Northwest, and they are terrific. It's actually a little house in the forest on Bainbridge Island, though for many years they were on the field at Paine Field in Everett, WA until the rent went through the roof (halo effect of Boeing's final assembly operations there having $100 billion or so of orders on the books). I asked the owner whether I could do my own magneto maintenance, since I had gotten the mag service kit from Spruce. He said that the major expense is not the tools to rebuild the magneto, it's the test equipment they use. After rebuilding they put every magneto in an oven to heat it up for a few hours, then do a waveform inspection of its spark output while hot and running at high RPM. I was impressed that when they put their yellow tag on a mag, it is a quality piece of work. Interestingly, they had to replace the shaft and bearings on one of my Slick that was 500 hrs since factory new and installed by Lycoming -- still had the Lycoming yellow paint on the hold-down nuts from the factory build. They showed me where Lycoming had failed to put shaft lubricant on the mag during installation, resulting in overheating, corrosion, and a slightly bent shaft. I had no idea, since that mag had always timed perfectly. So, would anybody be interested in a completely unused magneto assembly and timing kit? (see http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/slickassykit.php ) Like David, from this point forward I just put 'em in a box every 500 hrs and send them to the folks who really know their stuff. -Dan Masys RV-10 N104LD 510 hrs RV-12 N122LD 98 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: New Gust Lock
Date: Jan 11, 2012
We recently have been experimenting with a gust lock mechanism for our RV-1 0 that holds the stick in place w/o the use of seat belts etc... The goal w as to design a small unit to lock the control surfaces in a neutral positio n without using the seatbelts or other systems that could shift over time. We played with a number of different designs but most were not completely s uccessful due to the curvature of the stick around the binding area. Ultima tely we decided to place a hard point on the stick to guarantee no movement when attached. I was worried that the stick hard point may get in the way but it is a non-issue. Photos of our final design. [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Gust Lock RV-10\Gust Lock Bracket RV -10 (1).JPG] [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Gust Lock RV-10\Gust Lock Bracket RV -10 (2).JPG] [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Gust Lock RV-10\Gust Lock Bracket RV -10 (4).JPG] [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Gust Lock RV-10\Gust Lock Bracket RV -10 (6).JPG] The above design is made from solid stock. Had we to start from scratch we would probably build it out of thinner (lighter) aluminum made structurally sound with reinforcement and bends. Also properly designed a single seat s ide pin is all that would be needed. We ended up with two pins because the holes were already there from a prior concept. Mate this with our Rudder Gust Lock (below) and you have a pretty simple & small locking system. I keep both parts in a Ziploc bag stored in the bagga ge area. [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Pictures\Airplanes\RV-8A\RV-8A Build Photos\ Baggage door, gust lock, pitot cover 002.jpg] Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: New Headset Bracket Design
Date: Jan 11, 2012
We have recently been playing around with a headset bracket that would work with the beautiful Aerosport interior we recently installed. In my 8A we w ent the simple route with a color matched nylon strap and Velcro to hold th e headsets when not in use. For the RV-10 I wanted the headsets low & out o f the way for several reasons. Because of how low I wanted the headsets usi ng a strap was not that easy to reach. We built up a hanging bracket that i s ultra-light weight (thin material) and hangs over the edge of the interio r paneling. Works well so far and keeps the headsets substantially out of v iew. Robin [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Headset Bracket\Headset Bracket (2). JPG][Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Headset Bracket\Headset Bracket (3).JPG][Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\Headset Bracket\Headset Brac ket (4).JPG] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ganster" <taganster(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Airflow Fuel Pump
Date: Jan 11, 2012
I have a Airflow Performance fuel pump for sale. It is the ES Airflow Fuel Pump that Vans sells in their catalog for $415.00. The pump is brand new, still in the box (came with my engine). I would like to get $350.00 + shipping OBO. Please reply to my direct email if you are interested. Tom Ganster CLI, Wisconsin Wiring panel #40778 taganster(at)gmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New Gust Lock
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 12, 2012
Robin, if there are no clearance issues, then it looks like an excellent design. Just out of curiosity, would this design also allow for an optional crotch belt? John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363154#363154 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: New Gust Lock
Date: Jan 12, 2012
Zero clearance issues. I don't fully understand your question. Are you saying you have a crotch be lt and want to know if our design will work when considering the belt attac hment area? Because the -10 is the only movable seat in the RV line of airc raft I don't see how anyone has a crotch belt for the front occupants. Not sure where it attaches with the seat moving forward & back? That being said our design should work because we basically attach forward of the leading edge of the seat "bench" area. Regardless there are MANY different ways to attach to the "bench" area, the key was the hard point on the stick. Even that can be varied by having the hard point facing forward vs. facing aft in my set up and making the actua l gust lock grab around the stick and connect to the forward facing hard po int opening. One could also make the attachment area "straddle" any items t hat may be in the way. I drew up a few different concepts to consider (atta ched). The beauty of the forward facing hard point is that you can hang your fuzzy dice or pine fresh smelling tree from the hole when not in use. :-) Good luck, Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 6:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: New Gust Lock --> Robin, if there are no clearance issues, then it looks like an excellent de sign. Just out of curiosity, would this design also allow for an optional c rotch belt? John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363154#363154 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: New Gust Lock
Date: Jan 12, 2012
Robin, Did you consider a hinged piece on the gust lock itself that closes around and captures the stick instead of attaching the locking tab? Drilling into the stick shouldn't be an issue but it would be that much easier to install and leave no trace if removed. Some form of capture method may work with the larger diameter of a covered stick as well. -Ben -----Original Message----- Zero clearance issues. I don't fully understand your question. Are you saying you have a crotch belt and want to know if our design will work when considering the belt attachment area? Because the -10 is the only movable seat in the RV line of aircraft I don't see how anyone has a crotch belt for the front occupants. Not sure where it attaches with the seat moving forward & back? That being said our design should work because we basically attach forward of the leading edge of the seat "bench" area. Regardless there are MANY different ways to attach to the "bench" area, the key was the hard point on the stick. Even that can be varied by having the hard point facing forward vs. facing aft in my set up and making the actual gust lock grab around the stick and connect to the forward facing hard point opening. One could also make the attachment area "straddle" any items that may be in the way. I drew up a few different concepts to consider (attached). The beauty of the forward facing hard point is that you can hang your fuzzy dice or pine fresh smelling tree from the hole when not in use. :-) Good luck, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: New Gust Lock
Date: Jan 12, 2012
Yes our first concept was a complete failure (below). The issue is the curvature of the stick. Note scratched stick. Bummer. The hard point solved all the issues. One could take this design and add a couple of legs to the base to support the bracket from falling down. Plus an edge trim to prevent scuffing the st ick. Keep in mind this all started with a discussion of parking your plane outside during a sudden major weather event. What would surely prevent the control surfaces from moving? This was our solution. There are others.. The stick hard point is very positive in locking the entire system together . Robin [Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Desktop\RV 10 Build Photos\Stick Lock\Stick lock, bluetooth 007.jpg] -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 10:02 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: New Gust Lock v10(at)sinkrate.com>> Robin, Did you consider a hinged piece on the gust lock itself that closes around and captures the stick instead of attaching the locking tab? Drilling into the stick shouldn't be an issue but it would be that much easier to instal l and leave no trace if removed. Some form of capture method may work with the larger diameter of a covered stick as well. -Ben -----Original Message----- Zero clearance issues. I don't fully understand your question. Are you saying you have a crotch be lt and want to know if our design will work when considering the belt attac hment area? Because the -10 is the only movable seat in the RV line of airc raft I don't see how anyone has a crotch belt for the front occupants. Not sure where it attaches with the seat moving forward & back? That being said our design should work because we basically attach forward of the lead ing edge of the seat "bench" area. Regardless there are MANY different ways to attach to the "bench" area, the key was the hard point on the stick. Even that can be varied by having the hard point facing forward vs. facing aft in my set up and making the actua l gust lock grab around the stick and connect to the forward facing hard po int opening. One could also make the attachment area "straddle" any items t hat may be in the way. I drew up a few different concepts to consider (atta ched). The beauty of the forward facing hard point is that you can hang your fuzzy dice or pine fresh smelling tree from the hole when not in use. :-) Good luck, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LAX
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 12, 2012
Probably missed you, but Zamperini Field (Toa) is a good South Bay alternative, with easy access to rental cars and the beach. Also Santa Monica (KSMO). Curious if you actually landed at LAX, that would be an adventure worth reporting? jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote: > I'm flying into LAX this afternoon and leave tomorrow afternoon. Anybody in the area have any suggestions for a place to stay and/or words of wisdom for the city? Any projects near there? > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363497#363497 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Re: LAX
Date: Jan 13, 2012
I think someone else was driving. :) Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2012, at 6:49 PM, "cjay" wrote: > > Probably missed you, but Zamperini Field (Toa) is a good South Bay alternative, with easy access to rental cars and the beach. Also Santa Monica (KSMO). Curious if you actually landed at LAX, that would be an adventure worth reporting? > > > jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote: >> I'm flying into LAX this afternoon and leave tomorrow afternoon. Anybody in the area have any suggestions for a place to stay and/or words of wisdom for the city? Any projects near there? >> >> Jesse Saint >> I-TEC, Inc. >> jesse(at)itecusa.org >> www.itecusa.org >> www.mavericklsa.com >> C: 352-427-0285 >> O: 352-465-4545 >> F: 815-377-3694 > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363497#363497 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 2012
From: Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: New Gust Lock
Robin this is great timing I too have been working a similar design but have not built one yet. I was looking at incorporating this RAM mount (see link) to hold the stick vice the permanent tab approach (which I like too). I ahve not done any "robustness" analysis yet. I also want to integrate rudder lock. http://www.ram-mount.com/NewProducts/ezstrapmotorcyclemount/tabid/3599/Default.aspx -Chris Lucas N919AR Flying ----- Original Message ----- From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: New Gust Lock Yes our first concept was a complete failure (below). The issue is the curvature of the stick. Note scratched stick. Bummer. The hard point solved all the issues. One could take this design and add a couple of legs to the base to support the bracket from falling down. Plus an edge trim to prevent scuffing the stick. Keep in mind this all started with a discussion of parking your plane outside during a sudden major weather event. What would surely prevent the control surfaces from moving? This was our solution. There are others.. The stick hard point is very positive in locking the entire system together. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 10:02 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: New Gust Lock Robin, Did you consider a hinged piece on the gust lock itself that closes around and captures the stick instead of attaching the locking tab? Drilling into the stick shouldn't be an issue but it would be that much easier to install and leave no trace if removed. Some form of capture method may work with the larger diameter of a covered stick as well. -Ben -----Original Message----- Zero clearance issues. I don't fully understand your question. Are you saying you have a crotch belt and want to know if our design will work when considering the belt attachment area? Because the -10 is the only movable seat in the RV line of aircraft I don't see how anyone has a crotch belt for the front occupants. Not sure where it attaches with the seat moving forward & back? That being said our design should work because we basically attach forward of the leading edge of the seat "bench" area. Regardless there are MANY different ways to attach to the "bench" area, the key was the hard point on the stick. Even that can be varied by having the hard point facing forward vs. facing aft in my set up and making the actual gust lock grab around the stick and connect to the forward facing hard point opening. One could also make the attachment area "straddle" any items that may be in the way. I drew up a few different concepts to consider (attached). The beauty of the forward facing hard point is that you can hang your fuzzy dice or pine fresh smelling tree from the hole when not in use. :-) Good luck, Robin =================== bsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum - nd much much more: tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =================== bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - eb Forums! .matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com =================== bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - o:p> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. tronics.com/contribution"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution =================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 2012
Subject: Re: I signed a petition against aviation user fees and got
this response
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
On 01/13/2012 01:44 PM, Jack Phillips wrote: > > I got the same thing, Dave. They just don't get it and they will have > another law with unintended consequences. Vote 'em out! The problem is that it doesn't matter who from which party replaces them, they are all cut from the same corrupt cloth... -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 2012
From: Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rear seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but non magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I'd like to do this too. Thanks Chris Lucas N919AR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Date: Jan 13, 2012
Chris, I did this. Aircraft spruce can make them up out of SS nonmagnetic. I have structural SS bolts too and my GMU 44 Garmin Magnetometer mountedin close proximity and no problems. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cableassy.php Sean ----- Original Message ----- From: Chris To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 12:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rear seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but non magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I'd like to do this too. Thanks Chris Lucas N919AR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 2012
From: Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Ahh thanks Sean! I did put in an email to Spruce through their website abou t custom cables, waiting for a reply. I can see about a 5-10 degree swing i n the mag heading on my GRT system with and without those cables running by . Did you get the bolts from Spruce too, I have some AN3's from Spruce but the magnet picks them up. Thanks for the reply Carl, I am already commited to my location due to othe r features, I have the mags in the next bay behind the battery. I used the right angle longeron to support the shelf and it also supports my AHRS whi ch is over the battery. This helps keep XYZ on both units easily aligned. On a GRT setup the mag and AHRS have to be separate. -Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable =EF=BB Chris, I did this. Aircraft spruce can make them up out of SS nonmagnetic. I have structural SS bolts too and my GMU 44 Garmin Magnetometer mountedin close proximity and no problems. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cableassy.php Sean ----- Original Message ----- From:Chris To:rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 12:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rear seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but n on magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I'd like to do this too. Thanks Chris Lucas N919AR href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 13, 2012
Highly recommend SS. The ferrous metals passed the hand-held compass test at 18". They showed up during the GRT mag calibration at the upper limit for interference. I will change out hdwr/cables later then recalibrate. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 Bldr# 40983SB Started 12/1/2009 N715WD Flying 12/1/2011. Paint 2012. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363651#363651 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Date: Jan 13, 2012
I think these are what I bought, nuts and washers SS too.....long time ago though. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an3.php ----- Original Message ----- From: Chris To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 2:04 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable Ahh thanks Sean! I did put in an email to Spruce through their website about custom cables, waiting for a reply. I can see about a 5-10 degree swing in the mag heading on my GRT system with and without those cables running by. Did you get the bolts from Spruce too, I have some AN3's from Spruce but the magnet picks them up. Thanks for the reply Carl, I am already commited to my location due to other features, I have the mags in the next bay behind the battery. I used the right angle longeron to support the shelf and it also supports my AHRS which is over the battery. This helps keep XYZ on both units easily aligned. On a GRT setup the mag and AHRS have to be separate. -Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable =EF=BB Chris, I did this. Aircraft spruce can make them up out of SS nonmagnetic. I have structural SS bolts too and my GMU 44 Garmin Magnetometer mountedin close proximity and no problems. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cableassy.php Sean ----- Original Message ----- From:Chris To:rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 12:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rear seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but non magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I'd like to do this too. Thanks Chris Lucas N919AR href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www .matronics.com/chttp://www.matronics.com/Nav= --> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Date: Jan 13, 2012
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Date: Jan 13, 2012
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Is the SS that is mentioned on that page non-magnetic or do you need to call to request it? -Sean #40303 On 1/13/12 2:43 PM, Seano wrote: > Chris, I did this. Aircraft spruce can make them up out of SS > nonmagnetic. I have structural SS bolts too and my GMU 44 Garmin > Magnetometer mountedin close proximity and no problems. > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cableassy.php > Sean > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Chris > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Friday, January 13, 2012 12:13 PM > *Subject:* RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable > > I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made > custom rear seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous > (stainless steel but non magnetic) so as to not interfere with the > magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out > there, please provide details if possible. I'd like to do this too. > Thanks > Chris Lucas > N919AR > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Date: Jan 13, 2012
Well this is interesting, here is my email to Spruce and then their reply: .......I was wondering if the custom cable assemblies, which are offered in galvanized or stainless steel, are available in a non-ferrous stainless steel with similar strength characteristics? I do not have all the dimensions ready yet but iI will need two cables, 5/32 DIA, about 4 ft long with 2 fork ends and 1/4 inch hole in the fork. Thanks Chris Lucas Chris Sorry but no, these cable are only made of the materials that are sold in the catalog, Galvanized or SS. If you decide to go with the items listed your price would be $54.86 for the gal, and $57.26 for ss 5/32 7x19 48 inches with ms20667 forks. Regards A/S So with the above I am maybe assuming that the stainless Robin and Seano got is actually non-ferrous and the A/S rep is just not understanding my query or doesn't know if it is nonferrous or not. I know my Van's cable is ferrous and the fork ends are not. I must ask did either of you actually put a magnet to it? Sean, as for your question below there is no way to know unless they tell us they put a magnet to it and it did not stick. I guess I need to pursue my request further. If its a 300 series SS it can become magnetized during cold work (making wire, rolling threads). The wire or whatever would need to be annealed afterward to make it non-ferrous. Wayne, I did a test tonight and my GRT mag swung 5 degrees from with the cable in place to without in place. It might correct out it might not, but I am trying for a near flat calibration. I can't believe I am spending so much time on this...I guess I don't want to stop "building". Chris N919AR Flying -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 5:08 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable Is the SS that is mentioned on that page non-magnetic or do you need to call to request it? -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
From: Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Jan 13, 2012
I was planning to do this but by the time I had built the shelf, it seemed l ike the cables might physically interfere with the units. So I ended up replicating the front seat hard points for the rear seats. You can see what I did here... http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=2 24&category=2155&log=91924&row=4 Bill Sent from my iPad On Jan 13, 2012, at 2:13 PM, Chris wrote: > I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rea r seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but no n magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I' d like to do this too. > Thanks > Chris Lucas > N919AR > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Date: Jan 13, 2012
Ditto for me. I did it because I did not like the idea of a wire coming out of the rear when I could have the seat belts connected directly above. like the front was. Pascal From: Bill Watson Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 6:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable I was planning to do this but by the time I had built the shelf, it seemed like the cables might physically interfere with the units. So I ended up replicating the front seat hard points for the rear seats. You can see what I did here... http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project= 224&category=2155&log=91924&row=4 Bill Sent from my iPad On Jan 13, 2012, at 2:13 PM, Chris wrote: I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rear seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but non magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I'd like to do this too. Thanks Chris Lucas N919AR ========= ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========= cs.com ========= matronics.com/contribution ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jan 13, 2012
I had a buddy order the SS cables from AS&S for ~$120, when he received them they were the same as what came in the Vans kit. Maybe he got the wrong on es? Maybe not?? May want to make sure they are indeed non-Ferrous.... Migh t save you some aggravation and money.... Sent from my iPhone On Jan 13, 2012, at 3:43 PM, "Seano" wrote: > Chris, I did this. Aircraft spruce can make them up out of SS nonmagneti c. I have structural SS bolts too and my GMU 44 Garmin Magnetometer mounted in close proximity and no problems. > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cableassy.php > > Sean > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Chris > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 12:13 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable > > I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rea r seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but no n magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I' d like to do this too. > Thanks > Chris Lucas > N919AR > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Date: Jan 13, 2012
Weird....When I bought mine I did the magnet test and the originals were magnetic and the new cables were not.?? I just ordered the same length in stainless. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 6:50 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable > > Well this is interesting, here is my email to Spruce and then their reply: > > .......I was wondering if the custom cable assemblies, which are offered > in galvanized or stainless steel, are available in a non-ferrous stainless > steel with similar strength characteristics? I do not have all the > dimensions ready yet but iI will need two cables, 5/32 DIA, about 4 ft > long with 2 fork ends and 1/4 inch hole in the fork. > Thanks > Chris Lucas > > Chris > > Sorry but no, these cable are only made of the materials that are sold > in the catalog, Galvanized or SS. If you decide to go with the items > listed your price would be $54.86 for the gal, and $57.26 for ss > 5/32 7x19 48 inches with ms20667 forks. > > > Regards > A/S > > So with the above I am maybe assuming that the stainless Robin and Seano > got is actually non-ferrous and the A/S rep is just not understanding my > query or doesn't know if it is nonferrous or not. I know my Van's cable is > ferrous and the fork ends are not. > I must ask did either of you actually put a magnet to it? > > Sean, > as for your question below there is no way to know unless they tell us > they put a magnet to it and it did not stick. I guess I need to pursue my > request further. If its a 300 series SS it can become magnetized during > cold work (making wire, rolling threads). The wire or whatever would need > to be annealed afterward to make it non-ferrous. > > Wayne, > I did a test tonight and my GRT mag swung 5 degrees from with the cable in > place to without in place. It might correct out it might not, but I am > trying for a near flat calibration. > > I can't believe I am spending so much time on this...I guess I don't want > to stop "building". > > Chris > N919AR Flying > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 5:08 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable > > > Is the SS that is mentioned on that page non-magnetic or do you need to > call to request it? > > -Sean #40303 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 2012
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
I put the same cables in that Sean did. -I have the GRT AHRS on a shelf i n the back with the Crossbow AHRS for the Chelton right next to it. -=0AT he magnetometer for GRT in the wing. -I have had some issues with the Cro ssbow not booting up correctly from time to time and I just purchased the A HRS mount that Van's sells to relocate the GRT AHRS. -=0AFrom what I have read the GRT AHRS (with no magnetometer in it) is not effected by magnetic fields like the Crossbow with the magnetometer built in. -=0AI will let you know what I find.-=0A-=0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A =0A=0A=0A>________________________________=0A> From: Pascal <rv10flyer@veri zon.net>=0A>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A>Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 8:14 PM=0A>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cabl e=0A> =0A>=0A>Ditto for me. I did it because I did not like the idea of a w ire coming out =0Aof the rear when I could have the seat belts connected di rectly above. like the =0Afront was. =0A>Pascal-=0A>From: Bill Watson =0A >Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 6:58 PM=0A>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt =0Acable=0A>- I was planning to do this but by the time I had built the shelf, it seemed =0Alike the cables might physically interfere with the units.=0A>-=0A>So I ended up replicating the front seat hard points for the rear seats. =0AY ou can see what I did here...=0A>http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log. php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2155&log=91924&row=4=0A >-=0A>Bill=0A>=0A>Sent from my iPad=0A>=0A>On Jan 13, 2012, at 2:13 PM, C hris =0Awrote:=0A>=0A>=0A> =0A>>I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rear seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but non magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If t hat someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I'd like to do this too.=0A>>Thanks=0A>>Chris Lucas=0A>>N919AR=0A>>====== =====0A://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A===== ===== cs.com ========== matronics.com/contrib ution=0A========== =0A>href="http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http ========= =0A>=0A> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 2012
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: plane canopies
Anybody in or near Chesterfield Michigan that can check on Dave at Plane Canopies for me? Failed promises and now he won't return my calls. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Jan 14, 2012
I was at West Marine today and noticed they sell SS cable and will swedge the ends on for you. It is listed on thier website as SS. I am going to check it out next time I am in there and if it is non ferrous I am going to just have it made by them with my fittings. Bill -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363720#363720 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead seatbelt holders - was Magnetometer Locations and
seatbelt cable
From: Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Jan 14, 2012
Can anyone suggest a design solution for keeping the overhead belts out of t he way? Haven't visited this issue recently... I know a number of people have fabric ated various things. I need to do something for my front and rear belts. Bill "too much sighing, need to go flying" Watson Sent from my iPad On Jan 13, 2012, at 10:14 PM, "Pascal" wrote: > Ditto for me. I did it because I did not like the idea of a wire coming ou t of the rear when I could have the seat belts connected directly above. lik e the front was. > Pascal > > From: Bill Watson > Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 6:58 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable > > I was planning to do this but by the time I had built the shelf, it seemed like the cables might physically interfere with the units. > > So I ended up replicating the front seat hard points for the rear seats. Y ou can see what I did here... > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project= 224&category=2155&log=91924&row=4 > > Bill > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jan 13, 2012, at 2:13 PM, Chris wrote: > >> I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom re ar seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but n on magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearb y shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I 'd like to do this too. >> Thanks >> Chris Lucas >> N919AR >> >> >> >> ========= >> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========= >> cs.com >> ========= >> matronics.com/contribution >> ========= >> > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
From: "kevino" <kevino(at)worldwarehouse.com>
Date: Jan 14, 2012
I ordered ss from spruce and yes they were still magnetic. However hasn't bothered my afs 4500's Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363725#363725 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable
Date: Jan 14, 2012
If it is Stainless Steel it is still ferrous (ferrous just means containing iron). It may be non-magnetic, but it is still ferrous. Just to play it safe, take a magnet and test it. Stainless Steel comes in several different alloys, and not all are non-magnetic. For example, most stainless steel knives (including some tableware) are 400 series stainless, which is highly magnetic. Most stainless forks and spoons are 300 series, which is non-magnetic (or maybe just slightly magnetic). I just checked some stainless steel cable I got from Aircraft Spruce and it is somewhat magnetic, but nowhere nearly as strong as galvanized cable. Jack Phillips # 40610 Wings Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 8:59 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable I was at West Marine today and noticed they sell SS cable and will swedge the ends on for you. It is listed on thier website as SS. I am going to check it out next time I am in there and if it is non ferrous I am going to just have it made by them with my fittings. Bill -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363720#363720 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Overhead seatbelt holders - was Magnetometer Locations
and seatbelt cable
Date: Jan 14, 2012
I bought these then powdercoated black. http://www.planeinnovations.com/ Work great... ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Watson To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 7:12 AM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead seatbelt holders - was Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable Can anyone suggest a design solution for keeping the overhead belts out of the way? Haven't visited this issue recently... I know a number of people have fabricated various things. I need to do something for my front and rear belts. Bill "too much sighing, need to go flying" Watson Sent from my iPad On Jan 13, 2012, at 10:14 PM, "Pascal" wrote: Ditto for me. I did it because I did not like the idea of a wire coming out of the rear when I could have the seat belts connected directly above. like the front was. Pascal From: Bill Watson Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 6:58 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Magnetometer Locations and seatbelt cable I was planning to do this but by the time I had built the shelf, it seemed like the cables might physically interfere with the units. So I ended up replicating the front seat hard points for the rear seats. You can see what I did here... http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project= 224&category=2155&log=91924&row=4 Bill Sent from my iPad On Jan 13, 2012, at 2:13 PM, Chris wrote: I was wondering if someone on this list mentioned they had made custom rear seat seatbelt anchor cables which were non-ferrous (stainless steel but non magnetic) so as to not interfere with the magnetometer mounted on a nearby shelf. If that someone is out there, please provide details if possible. I'd like to do this too. Thanks Chris Lucas N919AR ========= ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========= cs.com ========= matronics.com/contribution ========= href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: LightSquared
Date: Jan 14, 2012
Looks like good news for us GPS users... Snip<< The saga of LightSquared may be coming to its final turn, as no fewe r than nine federal agencies have unanimously agreed that its LTE network i nterferes with GPS in such a way that it can't be fixed.>> LightSquared LTE network interferes with GPS, says US government committee http://www.theverge.com/2012/1/13/2706232/lightsquared-lte-network-interfer es-gps-government-committee Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 2012
From: <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Engine sag
Just starting my second "annual" inspection. I have about 3/16" engine sag (240 hours). At initial build I did not allow for the sagging--just built it so the spinner and cowl matched perfectly. I kinda remember the discussions here about correcting the sag but can't find much in the search engine under "engine sag". So do I correct it by shimming (with washers) the lower engine mount to firewall connections? And if that is the correct method how many washers and what thickness would "fix" the 3/16 sag? Thanks, Jay Rowe 40301 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 2012
Subject: Re: Engine sag
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I am not there yet on my build. On my Mooney with IO-360 Lyc, there are washers on each side of the engine shock mounts. Moving 1 washer from the front of the top mount to the rear of the mount would raise the front of the engine about the right amount. You probably could shim in front of the bottom mounts, but on my Mooney those are twice as hard to get to and work on as the top mounts. On Sat, Jan 14, 2012 at 1:38 PM, wrote: > > Just starting my second "annual" inspection. I have about 3/16" engine > sag (240 hours). At initial build I did not allow for the sagging--just > built it so the spinner and cowl matched perfectly. I kinda remember the > discussions here about correcting the sag but can't find much in the search > engine under "engine sag". So do I correct it by shimming (with washers) > the lower engine mount to firewall connections? And if that is the correct > method how many washers and what thickness would "fix" the 3/16 sag? > Thanks, Jay Rowe 40301 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phil Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine sag
Date: Jan 14, 2012
What mounts did you use? The Lord mounts? Sent from my iPhone On Jan 14, 2012, at 2:38 PM, wrote: > > Just starting my second "annual" inspection. I have about 3/16" engine sag (240 hours). At initial build I did not allow for the sagging--just built it so the spinner and cowl matched perfectly. I kinda remember the discussions here about correcting the sag but can't find much in the search engine under "engine sag". So do I correct it by shimming (with washers) the lower engine mount to firewall connections? And if that is the correct method how many washers and what thickness would "fix" the 3/16 sag? Thanks, Jay Rowe 40301 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Engine sag
Date: Jan 14, 2012
Speaking of mounts... I don't want to hijack the thread so I will contribute first. I originally set my cowling to accept 1/8" sag over time. My engine has 150 hours on it and my engine is sagged down flush to the spinner. It might sag more over time but for now it's working out. I have the IO-540-N1A5 engine which has a heavier crank and 5th and 6th dampers. It weighs in at 428lbs vs the 412lb D4A5 engine. I remember someone else asking me about this engine choice and wanted to share my experience. When I shopped around for engine mounts I couldn't find any j3804-30's which are made for the N1A5. The engine builder and Lord both recommended the -28's which are used on the D4A5's. I bought these especially since Lord doesn't make the -30's anymore. After flying in my plane and flying other tens I could tell my engine had a different lower vibration than the other tens. I didn't like it being different so I went out to Boise and had my prop dynamically balanced at Precision Prop. The vibration didn't change much. So now it is annual time on my plane and I wanted to get to the bottom of it. I called Lord again and explaned the scenario and history. This time I spoke to an engineer who talked me into buying two J-6545-1 mounts and interchanging some sandwich parts with the J3804-28's. Also swapping out two of the gel spacers for two solid spacers and mounting them diagonally from each other. It all sounds like voodoo to me but the guy sounded like he new what he was saying. I'll let you know how it comes out if anyone cares or if anyone has this same engine. On another note I just found out the easiest way to test your new 406 ELT....I don't recommend this BTW! I put the remote faceplate on backwards so the test/reset button was actually the ELT "on" button. Luckily I registered the ELT online yesterday. Got a call from the Air Force about 5 minutes after testing the ELT. OOOOOOPS! I feel really stupid. It would save the trouble of making the test circuit but not recommened. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Perry" <philperry9(at)gmail.com> Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 3:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine sag > > What mounts did you use? The Lord mounts? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 14, 2012, at 2:38 PM, wrote: > >> >> Just starting my second "annual" inspection. I have about 3/16" engine >> sag (240 hours). At initial build I did not allow for the sagging--just >> built it so the spinner and cowl matched perfectly. I kinda remember the >> discussions here about correcting the sag but can't find much in the >> search engine under "engine sag". So do I correct it by shimming (with >> washers) the lower engine mount to firewall connections? And if that is >> the correct method how many washers and what thickness would "fix" the >> 3/16 sag? Thanks, Jay Rowe 40301 >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 2012
From: <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Engine sag
Phil: I used the Van's supplied mounts which I believe are made by "Barry Contols". Jay ---- Phil Perry wrote: > > What mounts did you use? The Lord mounts? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 14, 2012, at 2:38 PM, wrote: > > > > > Just starting my second "annual" inspection. I have about 3/16" engine sag (240 hours). At initial build I did not allow for the sagging--just built it so the spinner and cowl matched perfectly. I kinda remember the discussions here about correcting the sag but can't find much in the search engine under "engine sag". So do I correct it by shimming (with washers) the lower engine mount to firewall connections? And if that is the correct method how many washers and what thickness would "fix" the 3/16 sag? Thanks, Jay Rowe 40301 > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rear Seat Heat Issue
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Jan 15, 2012
I haven't seen this issue brought up much here. A common complaint brought up by rear seat passengers, is that all of the heat is at their feet and little to none above their waist. Has anyone addressed this in their plane? It is so odd that the front seats get almost all of the heat to be toasting, but the rear seat passengers are chilled. A factor contributing to the cold air is that the baggage area cover has those corrugated bends, which allows cold air from the tailcone to move forward. In fact, it seems most of my air in the cabin flows aft to forward. I will try and seal those gaps up somehow eventually. Another idea is to add some kind of directional control to the heat openings, such as the rotating air vents. I have to look into how to retrofit them in and whether or not it would be effective. Any thoughts? Jae Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363873#363873 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Jan 15, 2012
Hmm, a few people mentioned once they added a backing to the baggage cover to seal those gaps, they have not had any complaints about rear seat heat. I'll start looking for something to use for backing, and hope it solves my problem too. Thanks again! Jae -------- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363882#363882 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue
From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 15, 2012
I got my fire retardant treated foam from Abby at Flightline Interiors. On Jan 15, 2012, at 2:30 PM, jchang10 wrote: > > Hmm, a few people mentioned once they added a backing to the baggage cover to seal those gaps, they have not had any complaints about rear seat heat. > > I'll start looking for something to use for backing, and hope it solves my problem too. > > Thanks again! > Jae > > -------- > #40533 RV-10 > First flight 10/19/2011 > Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363882#363882 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 15, 2012
I have the larger eyeball vents from Stein. They leak so little it is barely noticeable. I have sealed the corrugations. I have aileron pushrod boots from Abby. I have painted interior. I like it cool in the plane, so I wear a tshirt while the rest of my family dresses much warmer. We flew this morning at 20F on the ground. They all have small lightweight wool blankets and need them. If we went down in a remote area or if the need arose to escape through fire we are more prepared. Agree, there is more than enough heat, but not in the right areas. I may try to redirect it, but the family is fine dressing in warm cotton/wool clothing. When we land we needed the warm clothes anyway. I just pull mine out of the baggage area. We will never be nice and toasty like in an airliner, a car or house because of the low insulation values. Airliners have double pane windows which help alot at -60C. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 Bldr# 40983SB Started 12/1/2009 N715WD Flying 12/1/2011. Paint 2012. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363939#363939 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 16, 2012
Subject: Rear Seat Heat Issue
I think the best solution to rear seat heat is seat heaters. You can get the elements from amazon for around $60 a seat and they only draw about 5 amps on the high setting, on the low setting about 1.5 amps. My wife, who is chronically cold, really loves them and pretty much only uses the low setting even when it's really cold. If you put the switch by the passenger you also let them take care of themselves which is always nice. Here is the kit I bought: http://www.amazon.com/Setting-Universal-Carbon-Fiber-Heater/dp/B004JOBWZ0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1326728237&sr=8-6 The install was really easy. If the 5 A current draw is an issue you cold probably ditch the high low switch and just wire them in series with your own switch. Bill N84WJ, RV-8, 695 hrs http://rv-8.blogspot.com/ > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Heat Issue > From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> > > > I haven't seen this issue brought up much here. A common complaint brought > up by > rear seat passengers, is that all of the heat is at their feet and little > to > none above their waist. Has anyone addressed this in their plane? It is so > odd > that the front seats get almost all of the heat to be toasting, but the > rear > seat passengers are chilled. > > A factor contributing to the cold air is that the baggage area cover has > those > corrugated bends, which allows cold air from the tailcone to move forward. > In > fact, it seems most of my air in the cabin flows aft to forward. I will > try and > seal those gaps up somehow eventually. > > Another idea is to add some kind of directional control to the heat > openings, such > as the rotating air vents. I have to look into how to retrofit them in and > whether or not it would be effective. > > Any thoughts? > > Jae > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363873#363873 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Jan 16, 2012
Also, i should have mentioned that I do have the upgraded Van's Al vents. They seal out the air well, so i don't think they are the issue. Blankets are required equipment for back seat passengers any time the temps get into the 30F's or below. Thanks again, Jae -------- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364010#364010 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue
Date: Jan 16, 2012
Hi Jae, I've seen a mod where the rear seat heat is redirected to eyeball vents on top of the tunnel cover. I though I had a picture of it somewhere in my archives but haven't been able to find it. Jeff Carpenter 40303 On Jan 16, 2012, at 9:46 AM, jchang10 wrote: > > > > Also, i should have mentioned that I do have the upgraded Van's Al > vents. They seal out the air well, so i don't think they are the > issue. Blankets are required equipment for back seat passengers any > time the temps get into the 30F's or below. > > Thanks again, > Jae > > -------- > #40533 RV-10 > First flight 10/19/2011 > Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364010#364010 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Rear Seat Heat Issue
Date: Jan 16, 2012
I went the same route, there was no way my wife was going to let me get a way with unheated seats in the great white north. The company I went with when I got them was http://www.heatedseatkits.com. I picked mine up around 5 years ago and they are still in business so that's a good sign. I'm goi ng to run mine off a fuse block that is for similar accessories (baggage li ght, rear seat power) but is still cutoff by one of the battery contactors on my dual PC680's. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Judge Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 9:42 AM Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Heat Issue I think the best solution to rear seat heat is seat heaters. You can get th e elements from amazon for around $60 a seat and they only draw about 5 amp s on the high setting, on the low setting about 1.5 amps. My wife, who is chronically cold, really loves them and pretty much only us es the low setting even when it's really cold. If you put the switch by the passenger you also let them take care of themselves which is always nice. Here is the kit I bought: http://www.amazon.com/Setting-Universal-Carbon-Fiber-Heater/dp/B004JOBWZ0/r ef=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1326728237&sr=8-6 The install was really easy. If the 5 A current draw is an issue you cold probably ditch the high low sw itch and just wire them in series with your own switch. Bill N84WJ, RV-8, 695 hrs http://rv-8.blogspot.com/ ________________________________ Message 1 ______________________________ _______ Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Heat Issue From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com<mailto:jc-matronics_rv10@jlin e.com>> I haven't seen this issue brought up much here. A common complaint brought up by rear seat passengers, is that all of the heat is at their feet and little t o none above their waist. Has anyone addressed this in their plane? It is so odd that the front seats get almost all of the heat to be toasting, but the rea r seat passengers are chilled. A factor contributing to the cold air is that the baggage area cover has th ose corrugated bends, which allows cold air from the tailcone to move forward. In fact, it seems most of my air in the cabin flows aft to forward. I will try and seal those gaps up somehow eventually. Another idea is to add some kind of directional control to the heat opening s, such as the rotating air vents. I have to look into how to retrofit them in and whether or not it would be effective. Any thoughts? Jae Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=363873#363873 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: PS Engineering PMA9000EX FOR SALE
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2012
I have a PMA9000EX audio panel for sale. It is in excellent working condition still in my RV-10. It has been updated recently at PS engineering. It will come with brand new tray and install kit. It has been flying for just over 2 years. New list price is $1895.00 I am asking $1300.00 or best offer. Free shipping any where in continental US. Geoff g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Flying 40033 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364242#364242 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: PS Engineering PMA9000EX FOR SALE
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jan 18, 2012
Just curious; care to state why you are getting rid of it? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364245#364245 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2012
Subject: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Yikes http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=81319 -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 19, 2012
I spoke with them recently about an engine. It appears that neither Aerosport nor Barrett's build kit engines anymore. From what I gather, Lycoming has raised the kit prices to the point that there is no competitive margin for a house shop. Aerosport will do a buildup of a 540 core, they just couldn't find one when I was looking. Barrett did find me one and I went with them. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364303#364303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2012
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Question is your Kit over five yrs and if so do you have the spinner kit? L ooking for and old kit that would have the old front spinner support. Van h as changed to their own and it does not fit the old spinner with the Hartze l Prop. Patrick Thyssen N15PT --- On Thu, 1/19/12, woxofswa wrote: From: woxofswa <woxof(at)aol.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? Date: Thursday, January 19, 2012, 11:48 AM I spoke with them recently about an engine.- It appears that neither Aero sport nor Barrett's build kit engines anymore.- From what I gather, Lycom ing has raised the kit prices to the point that there is no competitive mar gin for a house shop. Aerosport will do a buildup of a 540 core, they just couldn't find one when I was looking.- Barrett did find me one and I went with them. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finish ing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364303#364303 le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jan 19, 2012
I went through this discovery back during the summer as I was researching the various options in prep for OSH. That's when I noticed that 540's had dropped off the Mattituck order form. Further research uncovered the whole Lycoming kit issue that you're dealing with today. That's when going with a zero-time rebuilt became choice #1. Talked to Rhonda from Barrett at OSH and the rest is history- they are delivering my rebuilt C4B5 next Tuesday! -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364313#364313 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Jan 20, 2012
I don't think Mattituck is doing it either. I think Lycoming pulled it from them as well. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Jan 19, 2012, at 12:48 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > I spoke with them recently about an engine. It appears that neither Aerosport nor Barrett's build kit engines anymore. From what I gather, Lycoming has raised the kit prices to the point that there is no competitive margin for a house shop. > Aerosport will do a buildup of a 540 core, they just couldn't find one when I was looking. Barrett did find me one and I went with them. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364303#364303 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jan 20, 2012
Yep Mattituck stopped building new TMX 540s last Spring due to the "new" business relationship that Lycoming developed. I had a discussion with Mahlon from Mattituck about this over on VAF. My personal opinion is this move by Lycoming was purely an attempt to eliminate competition for their Thunderbolt engines. YMMV.... In the end, a BPE rebuilt be came the best option for me. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364355#364355 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Date: Jan 20, 2012
You will be so much happier to have a BPA rebuilt than a new engine. You'll need to fly 40 versus 25 hours, but having that engine will run so much more smoothly than a new Lycoming. P -----Original Message----- From: tsts4 Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 7:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? Yep Mattituck stopped building new TMX 540s last Spring due to the "new" business relationship that Lycoming developed. I had a discussion with Mahlon from Mattituck about this over on VAF. My personal opinion is this move by Lycoming was purely an attempt to eliminate competition for their Thunderbolt engines. YMMV.... In the end, a BPE rebuilt be came the best option for me. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364355#364355 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: "Kellym" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Jan 20, 2012
rv10flyer(at)verizon.net wrote: > You will be so much happier to have a BPA rebuilt than a new engine. You'll > need to fly 40 versus 25 hours, but having that engine will run so much more > smoothly than a new Lycoming. > P > -- Whether the engine is new or overhauled has no bearing on the hours for Phase I testing. Only whether it is a certified configuration of engine and prop or not is what determines that. -------- Kelly McMullen A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286 KCHD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364358#364358 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Date: Jan 20, 2012
You are correct, if one uses Lycoming parts it would be certified. I was thinking about Eci cylinders as applied to me. Thank you for that clarification. -----Original Message----- From: Kellym Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 8:02 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? rv10flyer(at)verizon.net wrote: > You will be so much happier to have a BPA rebuilt than a new engine. > You'll > need to fly 40 versus 25 hours, but having that engine will run so much > more > smoothly than a new Lycoming. > P > -- Whether the engine is new or overhauled has no bearing on the hours for Phase I testing. Only whether it is a certified configuration of engine and prop or not is what determines that. -------- Kelly McMullen A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286 KCHD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364358#364358 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2012
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
ECI cylinders, if PMA'd would not change that situation. More likely stuff like electronic ignition or non-certified prop will cause the extra time. You can have a certified engine that has 99.9% PMA parts with only the sump with the data plate being OEM. On Fri, Jan 20, 2012 at 9:19 AM, Pascal wrote: > > You are correct, if one uses Lycoming parts it would be certified. I was > thinking about Eci cylinders as applied to me. > Thank you for that clarification. > > -----Original Message----- From: Kellym > Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 8:02 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? > > > rv10flyer(at)verizon.net wrote: > >> You will be so much happier to have a BPA rebuilt than a new engine. >> You'll >> need to fly 40 versus 25 hours, but having that engine will run so much >> more >> smoothly than a new Lycoming. >> P >> -- >> > > Whether the engine is new or overhauled has no bearing on the hours for > Phase I testing. Only whether it is a certified configuration of engine and > prop or not is what determines that. > > -------- > Kelly McMullen > A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286 > KCHD > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/**viewtopic.php?p=364358#364358> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jan 20, 2012
In my case I'll get the 40 hr Phase I due to the addition of an AFP FI system which will make it a experimental BPE IO-540-C4B5 with a BPE serial number instead of a Lycoming IO-540. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364368#364368 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Date: Jan 20, 2012
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Technically Todd, it's an IO-540X. The engine is rated at 2700 max continuous rpm. Allen B. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4 Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 10:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? In my case I'll get the 40 hr Phase I due to the addition of an AFP FI system which will make it a experimental BPE IO-540-C4B5 with a BPE serial number instead of a Lycoming IO-540. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364368#364368 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Which raises the interesting question of why Lycoming issued different model numbers for the 250 hp Aztec C4B5 vs the 260 hp Comanche D4A5, which besides governor setting are allegedly identical. I suppose the feds against aviation made them do it. On 1/20/2012 10:05 AM, BPA wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "BPA" > > Technically Todd, it's an IO-540X. The engine is rated at 2700 max > continuous rpm. > > Allen B. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4 > Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 10:58 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "tsts4" > > In my case I'll get the 40 hr Phase I due to the addition of an AFP FI > system which will make it a experimental BPE IO-540-C4B5 with a BPE > serial number instead of a Lycoming IO-540. > > -------- > Todd Stovall > 728TT (reserved) > RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse > www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364368#364368 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Date: Jan 20, 2012
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Most likely Kelly, it is airframe related and requested by the manufacturer. You are correct though, they are identical engines. Except for the OEM data plate. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 11:13 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? Which raises the interesting question of why Lycoming issued different model numbers for the 250 hp Aztec C4B5 vs the 260 hp Comanche D4A5, which besides governor setting are allegedly identical. I suppose the feds against aviation made them do it. On 1/20/2012 10:05 AM, BPA wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "BPA" > > Technically Todd, it's an IO-540X. The engine is rated at 2700 max > continuous rpm. > > Allen B. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4 > Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 10:58 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "tsts4" > > In my case I'll get the 40 hr Phase I due to the addition of an AFP FI > system which will make it a experimental BPE IO-540-C4B5 with a BPE > serial number instead of a Lycoming IO-540. > > -------- > Todd Stovall > 728TT (reserved) > RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse > www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364368#364368 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Date: Jan 20, 2012
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
It's possible the aircraft manufacturer wanted the hp restriction due to airframe issues. Rather than design and build a completely different engine, it was easier to restrict an engine already in production. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 11:13 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? Which raises the interesting question of why Lycoming issued different model numbers for the 250 hp Aztec C4B5 vs the 260 hp Comanche D4A5, which besides governor setting are allegedly identical. I suppose the feds against aviation made them do it. On 1/20/2012 10:05 AM, BPA wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "BPA" > > Technically Todd, it's an IO-540X. The engine is rated at 2700 max > continuous rpm. > > Allen B. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4 > Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 10:58 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "tsts4" > > In my case I'll get the 40 hr Phase I due to the addition of an AFP FI > system which will make it a experimental BPE IO-540-C4B5 with a BPE > serial number instead of a Lycoming IO-540. > > -------- > Todd Stovall > 728TT (reserved) > RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse > www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364368#364368 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Jan 20, 2012
Correct...I have an aerosport rebuilt, Hartzell combo with a 25 hr phase 1 Sent from my iPhone On Jan 20, 2012, at 11:02, "Kellym" wrote: > > > rv10flyer(at)verizon.net wrote: >> You will be so much happier to have a BPA rebuilt than a new engine. You'll >> need to fly 40 versus 25 hours, but having that engine will run so much more >> smoothly than a new Lycoming. >> P >> -- > > Whether the engine is new or overhauled has no bearing on the hours for Phase I testing. Only whether it is a certified configuration of engine and prop or not is what determines that. > > -------- > Kelly McMullen > A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286 > KCHD > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364358#364358 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2012
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Any RV-10's in Hawaii Please?
I will be travelling to Hawaii during March (23 - 29) and would love to mee t up with any RV-10 flyers there.=0A-=0AI'd appreciate hearing from any R V-10 builders or owners who might be interested in catching up with me whil st I'm there.- Please contact me off line.=0A-=0AWarm regards from down under.=0A-=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaide, South Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Any RV-10's in Hawaii Please?
Date: Jan 21, 2012
Hey, I'll be going in April! If you shoot Patrick an email, maybe shoot me o ne too. I do plan to fly when I'm there. Tim On Jan 20, 2012, at 11:28 PM, Patrick Pulis wrot e: > I will be travelling to Hawaii during March (23 - 29) and would love to me et up with any RV-10 flyers there. > > I'd appreciate hearing from any RV-10 builders or owners who might be inte rested in catching up with me whilst I'm there. Please contact me off line. > > Warm regards from down under. > > Patrick Pulis > Adelaide, South Australia > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Date: Jan 21, 2012
Speaking of costs for an opposing 6 cylinder engines. I hold in my hand a receipt for a factory new 2008 "crate" Porsche Boxster S engine shipped over from Stuttgart Germany representing 280 Hp of Autobahn fun for... $13,643.81. No core charge required. I am still not sure why the huge price difference between a Lycoming and this type of engine. At some point after 2, 3 or 4 rebuilds we can't lay the difference on liability costs. Robin Flat 6 to get to the airport & a flat 6 to leave the airport :-) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rhonda Bewley Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? It's possible the aircraft manufacturer wanted the hp restriction due to airframe issues. Rather than design and build a completely different engine, it was easier to restrict an engine already in production. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 11:13 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? Which raises the interesting question of why Lycoming issued different model numbers for the 250 hp Aztec C4B5 vs the 260 hp Comanche D4A5, which besides governor setting are allegedly identical. I suppose the feds against aviation made them do it. On 1/20/2012 10:05 AM, BPA wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "BPA" > > Technically Todd, it's an IO-540X. The engine is rated at 2700 max > continuous rpm. > > Allen B. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4 > Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 10:58 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s? > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "tsts4" > > In my case I'll get the 40 hr Phase I due to the addition of an AFP FI > system which will make it a experimental BPE IO-540-C4B5 with a BPE > serial number instead of a Lycoming IO-540. > > -------- > Todd Stovall > 728TT (reserved) > RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse > www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364368#364368 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Jan 22, 2012
The difference is continuous power versus intermittent power. Operating auto engines at anything close to 100% power for any length of time will result in 'less than desirable' results. It is kind of like buying a 5 HP vacuum cleaner or air compressor which plugs into a standard 120V 15A wall outlet, good advertising, but just not reality when we use physics. Well,that is not quite fair I am sure the Porsche engine will actually make 280HP for a period of time. So the real difference is the heft the Lycoming is built with. Speaking of heft, aluminum is right around $1.00 per pound (raw material for casting), so that Porsche at ~$13k versus that Lycoming at ~$48k,buys you an extra 35,000 lbs of heft -or - wait.... -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364496#364496 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2012
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
On 1/22/2012 8:35 AM, jkreidler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "jkreidler" > > The difference is continuous power versus intermittent power. Operating auto engines at anything close to 100% power for any length of time will result in 'less than desirable' results. > Hi Jason, Do you have any proof of this, or is this merely a guess on your part? -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2012
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
Totally agree Robin... it was really hard for me to understand when looking at a kit built Superior Perfromance Cobra, with a Jack Rousch prepared eng ine, sitting next to my partially complete (at that time-currently 367 hour s) RV10, cost less than the engine in my RV10.... and to clarify, that's th e car and engine!!!!!=0ADon McDonald=0A =0A=0A_____________________________ ___=0A From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>=0ATo: "rv10-list@matronics .com" =0ASent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 11:59 AM =0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s m>=0A=0AJason,=0AI understand the differences but do the operating paramete rs of one vs. the other naturally make one design 3+ times more costly? It seems like starting an engine and within 2 minutes hitting the freeway goin g 70, stop & go traffic Phoenix- in July or Sheboygan Falls, WI- in Jan uary would be harder on an engine than our gentle slow taxi and hold till t he oil temp reaches 100 etc... The Porsche engine looks more complicated an d sophisticated to me. And the volume argument is difficult to understand s ince every 6 years or so the engine is updated while the IO-540 seems basic ally static. One would think basic economics would come into play and over time a static design would come down in price with competitive pressure. Oh wait competition.. Never mind. I know I am not covering anything new here it's just that it looks like soon enough a base IO-540 will pierce the $50, 000.00 mark (zeros added for emphasis) which will further reduce the number of people able to enjoy our great !=0Asport further damaging GA. =0A=0ARobin=0ADo No t Archive=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server (at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of j kreidler=0ASent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 5:35 AM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics .com=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s regalbeloit.com>=0A=0AThe difference is continuous power versus intermitten t power.- Operating auto engines at anything close to 100% power for any length of time will result in 'less than desirable' results.=0A=0AIt is kin d of like buying a 5 HP vacuum cleaner or air compressor which plugs into a standard 120V 15A wall outlet, good advertising, but just not reality when we use physics.- Well,that is not quite fair I am sure the Porsche engin e will actually make 280HP for a period of time.=0A=0ASo the real differenc e is the heft the Lycoming is built with.- Speaking of heft, aluminum is right around $1.00 per pound (raw material for casting), so that Porsche at ~$13k versus that Lycoming at ~$48k,buys you an extra 35,000 lbs of heft - or - wait....=0A=0A--------=0AJason Kreidler=0A4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI=0ATony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Fly ing - #40617=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums. matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364496#364496=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =============== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Jan 22, 2012
DJ, when I visited Lycoming we had a conversation around how they test and certify. It is very common for auto manufacturers to list peak HP instead of listing continuous HP. It looks more impressive and in reality doesn't matter for 99% of operation. Aside from the autobahn and a super speedway it is very difficult to run a car at continuous power. This topic is a bit near and dear to me as my day job is to engineer electric motors, understanding how the HP numbers were come by is important to me. With that said I don't think Lycoming wants to see us run at 100% power continuously either, but they have been tested that way, or so I was told. Robin, I really don't understand where they get their pricing from, it is amazing! You are right the parameters do not make for an engine that costs three times as much. That is kind of why I made the reference to the cost per pound, ultimately that is what we are buying is processed raw material. On the other hand if they were making money hand over fist there would naturally be competition right? The real problem is that overall GA is shrinking meaning Lycoming needs to make their money off from a smaller pool of people, it is a downward spiral that if left unchecked will be fatal to what we do. -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364514#364514 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2012
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
On 1/22/2012 1:59 PM, jkreidler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "jkreidler" > > DJ, when I visited Lycoming we had a conversation around how they test and certify. It is very common for auto manufacturers to list peak HP instead of listing continuous HP. It looks more impressive and in reality doesn't matter for 99% of operation. Aside from the autobahn and a super speedway it is very difficult to run a car at continuous power. This topic is a bit near and dear to me as my day job is to engineer electric motors, understanding how the HP numbers were come by is important to me. With that said I don't think Lycoming wants to see us run at 100% power continuously either, but they have been tested that way, or so I was told. I'm pretty sure I would not take a Lycoming rep's word on using automotive engines in an airplane... *grin* There are lots of automotive engines in airplanes that are running fine, and have not "blown up" from high RPMs. That is one of the biggest myth's surrounding the use of these engines. If you really want to familiarize yourself, I'd recommend starting with Ross Farnham's web site. He has been doing the automotive thing for years and probably knows more than you and I put together about using an automotive engine in an aircraft. I'd start here: http://www.sdsefi.com/air7.html and then go here: http://www.sdsefi.com/air51.htm and more general info here: http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html Of note: "Auto engines today are designed and routinely tested to higher standards than certified aircraft engine requirements. The FAA only requires 100 hours of full throttle, full rpm for certified engines and another 50 hours at 75-100% power, 50 hours of which are required to be at redline oil and cylinder head temperatures. Most auto engine manufacturers today do a minimum validation of 200 hours of WOT at rated hp rpm and some as much as 1200 hours. In addition to this test, they perform cold weather testing to the tune of 1000+ cycles of cold soaking the engine to 0F and immediately taking the engine to WOT and high rpm until coolant reaches 240F. While the engine is still hot, 0F coolant is pumped into the engine until the block achieves 0F and the test is repeated- over 1000 times. Additional tests often include idle testing to 2000 hours with oil temperatures of 260F+ and transmission validation where the engine is cycled from low rpm to shift point rpm at WOT while the transmission is shifted up and down for up to 1600 hours. Not just one engine is put through these tests- dozens are. Wear rates are noted and obviously failures are not acceptable before release of the design." To date, I've not heard of an auto engine blowing itself up due to running at high RPMs. However, I have heard of Lycoming engines blowing cylinders out the sides of cowlings, breaking cranks, etc, and I have heard of auto engines having other kinds of problems, but nothing in relation to high RPMS. -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Jan 22, 2012
DJ, point taken... A few add on comments, my information came from the individual running the test cell (hand on the controls) at Lycoming. High RPM's are not an issue, high power settings are. Getting full torque at 2700 RPM is a whole different world than at 6000 RPM. I understand many folks are happy with auto conversions, great, we all have our own thresholds for risk. I have no doubt auto engines are tested as stated above, but an important distinction in terms needs to be kept in mind. They are at full power for 200 hours, that is the continuous HP rating, what is usually advertised is max or peak HP, all I am asking is that we compare the same numbers. -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364524#364524 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2012
Subject: Re: Aero Sport Power no longer selling (I)O-540s?
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
On Sun, Jan 22, 2012 at 9:59 AM, Robin Marks wrote: > I understand the differences but do the operating parameters of one vs. > the other naturally make one design 3+ times more costly? > There is a mistaken assumption in this thread that the price Lycoming charges is directly related to their cost. Other than it being unlikely they would sell engines under cost, there isn't (and shouldn't be) a strong relationship. Lycoming will charge as much as they think people will pay, raising the price until either people don't buy enough engines to make the business worthwhile, or a viable price competitor emerges. Given that: a) the number of engines sold per year is quite low; b) the cost barrier to entry in this market is quite high; and c) many (not all!) purchasers are quite price insensitive this means that prices will remain high, and it would not be surprising if they went higher yet. Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Why do (I)O-540s cost so much?
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jan 22, 2012
yes, liability is part of the story. If you die in a plane crash your life is somehow worth a whole lot more than if you die in a Porche crash. Juries are supposed to be our peers. As Pogo said, "We have met the enemy, and he is us." But there are other issues. Porche doesn't have a large share of the car market, but I'll bet they make 10 times, or maybe 100 times, more engines than Lycoming does. That means a $100 million investment in a modern mass-production factory makes sense for them, and brings the average cost down. It doesn't make sense for Lycoming. It's almost like every part comes out of a custom machine shop. Finally, there's the lack of competition. Porche raises its prices until it's afraid drivers will buy a different car. Lycoming raises its prices until it's afraid people will drop out of aviation. Lycoming and TCM have a virtual monopoly. Due in part to the tight regulation of the industry. I remember when Superior first introduced PMA cylinders. Over night, prices of all cylinders (including Lycoming) dropped in half. Of course prices of everything else with no competition remained high, leading to nonsensical things like a simple steel pushrod (no competition) costing nearly as much as a complete cylinder assembly! -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364544#364544 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Side-stick turbo 10?
From: "EdKranz" <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 23, 2012
Has anyone seen the side-stick, turbo RV10 being sold in Brazil? http://aerocentro.com.br/hot_turbo/ In the flash gallery at the bottom of that page, you can see a good interior shot of a guy holding the side-stick. Looks to be about the same ergonomics as a Cirrus or a Cessna 400. I'd love to see how the linkage is set up, and I'd be curious about the stick forces... Anyone speak Portuguese and want to give them a call? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364569#364569 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Side-stick turbo 10?
Date: Jan 23, 2012
good time to remind some about the Flutter that Ken commented on. He used a Turbo RV-10 to demonstrate his point. http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/hp_limts.pdf Pascal -----Original Message----- From: EdKranz Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 9:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Side-stick turbo 10? Has anyone seen the side-stick, turbo RV10 being sold in Brazil? http://aerocentro.com.br/hot_turbo/ In the flash gallery at the bottom of that page, you can see a good interior shot of a guy holding the side-stick. Looks to be about the same ergonomics as a Cirrus or a Cessna 400. I'd love to see how the linkage is set up, and I'd be curious about the stick forces... Anyone speak Portuguese and want to give them a call? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364569#364569 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2012
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Sorry Guys My Email Has Been Hacked
I apologise to all of you who received spam from my email.- Rest assured it wasn't my doing.=0A-=0ARegards=0A-=0APatrick Pulis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2012
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Any RV-10's in Hawaii Please?
I would love to meet up with any of you guys if you're in Hawaii during the latter part of-March?=0A-=0ARegards=0A-=0APat=0A=0AFrom: Tim Olson < Tim(at)myrv10.com>=0ATo: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Sunday, 22 January 2012 12:49 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Any RV- 10's in Hawaii Please?=0A=0A=0AHey, I'll be going in April! -If you shoot Patrick an email, maybe shoot me one too. -I do plan to fly when I'm the re.=0ATim=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Jan 20, 2012, at 11:28 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:=0A=0A=0AI will be travelling to Hawaii during Marc h (23 - 29) and would love to meet up with any RV-10 flyers there.=0A>- =0A>I'd appreciate hearing from any RV-10 builders or owners who might be i nterested in catching up with me whilst I'm there.- Please contact me off line.=0A>-=0A>Warm regards from down under.=0A>-=0A>Patrick Pulis=0A>A =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Subject: Re: Side-stick turbo 10?
From: John Dunne <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
I'd worry if they are advertising an MT Propeller that actually is a Hartzell......maybe the side stick is really a centre stick, only photo shopped and what's with the "more silent?" You cant can't get more than "silent" There will be no "you will look visual and magnificence" for me ha! John 40315 On Tue, Jan 24, 2012 at 3:52 AM, Pascal wrote: > > good time to remind some about the Flutter that Ken commented on. He used > a Turbo RV-10 to demonstrate his point. http://www.vansaircraft.com/** > pdf/hp_limts.pdf <http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/hp_limts.pdf> > > Pascal > > > -----Original Message----- From: EdKranz > Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 9:23 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Side-stick turbo 10? > > > Has anyone seen the side-stick, turbo RV10 being sold in Brazil? > > http://aerocentro.com.br/hot_**turbo/> > > In the flash gallery at the bottom of that page, you can see a good > interior shot of a guy holding the side-stick. Looks to be about the same > ergonomics as a Cirrus or a Cessna 400. > > I'd love to see how the linkage is set up, and I'd be curious about the > stick forces... > > Anyone speak Portuguese and want to give them a call? > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/**viewtopic.php?p=364569#364569> > > -- *ACS Propeller* John Dunne Managing Director www.acspropeller.com.au Aviation Component Services (Qld) Pty Ltd. T/A "ACS Propeller" Archerfield Airport, Queensland Australia PH: 61 7 3274 4500 FAX: 61 7 3274 4010 * * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Subject: Re: Side-stick turbo 10?
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
It is a bit strange with some of the items they choose to focus on... like the CHROME STEP!! and CHROME SPINNER!! and HOME DEPOT GRAB HANDLE!! On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 11:36 PM, John Dunne wrote: > I'd worry if they are advertising an MT Propeller that actually is a > Hartzell......maybe the side stick is really a centre stick, only photo > shopped and what's with the "more silent?" > You cant can't get more than "silent" > There will be no "you will look visual and magnificence" for me ha! > John 40315 > > On Tue, Jan 24, 2012 at 3:52 AM, Pascal wrote: > >> >> good time to remind some about the Flutter that Ken commented on. He used >> a Turbo RV-10 to demonstrate his point. http://www.vansaircraft.com/** >> pdf/hp_limts.pdf <http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/hp_limts.pdf> >> >> Pascal >> >> >> -----Original Message----- From: EdKranz >> Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 9:23 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Side-stick turbo 10? >> >> >> >> Has anyone seen the side-stick, turbo RV10 being sold in Brazil? >> >> http://aerocentro.com.br/hot_**turbo/> >> >> In the flash gallery at the bottom of that page, you can see a good >> interior shot of a guy holding the side-stick. Looks to be about the same >> ergonomics as a Cirrus or a Cessna 400. >> >> I'd love to see how the linkage is set up, and I'd be curious about the >> stick forces... >> >> Anyone speak Portuguese and want to give them a call? >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/**viewtopic.php?p=364569#364569> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ====**==============================**= >> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/**Navigator?RV10-List >> ====**==============================**= >> http://forums.matronics.com >> ====**==============================**= >> le, List Admin. >> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/**contribution >> ====**==============================**= >> >> >> >> > > > -- > > *ACS Propeller* > John Dunne > Managing Director > www.acspropeller.com.au > Aviation Component Services (Qld) Pty Ltd. > T/A "ACS Propeller" > Archerfield Airport, Queensland Australia > PH: 61 7 3274 4500 FAX: 61 7 3274 4010 > * > * > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Subject: Bonanco brake lines
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Listers: I'm thinking of replacing the plastic brake lines in the cabin. Can anyone say, if I call Bonaco and ask for "RV-10 brake lines", do they already kno w the appropriate measurements, or will I have to provide them? Thanks, Tim N52KS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: Bonanco brake lines
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Yes they know the right size. From: tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero Subject: RV10-List: Bonanco brake lines Date: Tue=2C 24 Jan 2012 14:01:36 +0000 Listers: I'm thinking of replacing the plastic brake lines in the cabin. Can anyone say=2C if I call Bonaco and ask for "RV-10 brake lines"=2C do they already know the appropriate measurements=2C or will I have to provide them? Thanks=2C TimN52KS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Subject: Re: Bonanco brake lines
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
They have the measurements for all of the lines except the long runs through the tunnel and the shorter runs from the tunnel to the LG mounts. Check out my video of a full installation. It'll help you make some choices regarding lengths of those runs if you want them. http://youtu.be/gemgQmVsOYI Phil On Tue, Jan 24, 2012 at 8:13 AM, Danny Riggs wrote: > Yes they know the right size. > > ------------------------------ > From: tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Bonanco brake lines > Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:01:36 +0000 > > Listers: > > I'm thinking of replacing the plastic brake lines in the cabin. Can > anyone say, if I call Bonaco and ask for "RV-10 brake lines", do they > already know the appropriate measurements, or will I have to provide them? > > Thanks, > > Tim > N52KS > > * > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > * > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bonanco brake lines
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Jan 24, 2012
I have the ones from www.nonstopaviation.com Alan Sent from my iPhone On Jan 24, 2012, at 9:01 AM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" wrote: > Listers: > > I'm thinking of replacing the plastic brake lines in the cabin. Can anyon e say, if I call Bonaco and ask for "RV-10 brake lines", do they already kno w the appropriate measurements, or will I have to provide them? > > Thanks, > > Tim > N52KS > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2012
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Bonanco brake lines
Just be aware, that this is a replacement for the plastik lines only but not for the alu lines you have in the tunnel. Cheers Werner (progressing slowly) On 24.01.2012 15:13, Danny Riggs wrote: > Yes they know the right size. > > From: tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Bonanco brake lines > Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:01:36 +0000 > > Listers: > > I'm thinking of replacing the plastic brake lines in the cabin. Can > anyone say, if I call Bonaco and ask for "RV-10 brake lines", do they > already know the appropriate measurements, or will I have to provide them? > > Thanks, > > Tim > N52KS > > * > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: Side stick
Date: Jan 24, 2012
I do like the wrap around effect of the windows paint job. Chris Hukill back at it after 6 month hiatus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch>
Subject: Re: Bonanco brake lines
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Having an intense fear of flaring, I chose to replace all the aluminum and plastic tubing with Bonaco lines. I was very impressed by Phil Perry's installation and copied it, with some slight modifications. For anyone interested, the attached document shows the results. There is a table at the end of the document with the hose sizes, lengths, fittings and clocking not only for the standard Bonaco RV-10 set but also for the tunnel brake and fuel hoses. Note the caveat on the fuel lines from the tanks - I haven't yet had the wings on to verify the length and clocking but as far as I can see they are good! As for the rest I am happy with the result. Cheers, Gordon Anderson 41015, Switzerland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Flap Motor Supplier
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Does anyone know the supplier for the flap motors and part number? Thanks Barry ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap Motor Supplier
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Usher Precision makes the actuator and sells the motor. Just tell them the application and they'll know what you're looking for. --Dave On Jan 24, 2012, at 11:40, Barry Marz wrote: > > Does anyone know the supplier for the flap motors and part number? Thanks Barry > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2012
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: RV-10 At Waukegan (KUGN)?
I just finished passing my Instrument Rating checkride this afternoon (stress level has now decreased 100%) and the examiner said there was an RV-10 based at KUGN? If so and you're on this list, I'd enjoy the opportunity to come and check it out. I'm on the finish kit and still haven't flown in one. Hint Hint. :) -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 At Waukegan (KUGN)?
Sean, That's awesome on the Instrument rating! You'll use it a lot. Are you based near KUGN or just in the area for a while? That's a ways from me, but just over an hour. I can't probably get down that way right now, but if you live around there maybe something can work this spring. Tim On 1/24/2012 3:39 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > I just finished passing my Instrument Rating checkride this afternoon > (stress level has now decreased 100%) and the examiner said there was an > RV-10 based at KUGN? > > If so and you're on this list, I'd enjoy the opportunity to come and > check it out. I'm on the finish kit and still haven't flown in one. Hint > Hint. :) > > -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-10 At Waukegan (KUGN)?
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Congratulations on the Instrument ticket, Sean! I guarentee you are a better pilot now than you were when you started working on it. You should see a better rate on your insurance as well. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (ailerons) Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 4:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 At Waukegan (KUGN)? I just finished passing my Instrument Rating checkride this afternoon (stress level has now decreased 100%) and the examiner said there was an RV-10 based at KUGN? If so and you're on this list, I'd enjoy the opportunity to come and check it out. I'm on the finish kit and still haven't flown in one. Hint Hint. :) -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation?
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Lew, I have your heli coil kit with a bunch of extra coils. Should I 1. return it to you (address please)? 2. Send it to next person on list? 3. Hold until next person asks for it? Thanks in advance, Tom Hanaway Boynton Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364731#364731 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2012
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 At Waukegan (KUGN)?
I fly rental spam cans out of Lake in the Hills (3CK). I plan on flying up to see a friend this spring who lives near Onalaska. I was planning on trying to get up your way then. I'll definitely get back to you when spring rolls around. -Sean On 1/24/12 4:41 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Sean, > > That's awesome on the Instrument rating! You'll use it a lot. > Are you based near KUGN or just in the area for a while? > That's a ways from me, but just over an hour. I can't > probably get down that way right now, but if you live > around there maybe something can work this spring. > Tim > > > On 1/24/2012 3:39 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: >> >> I just finished passing my Instrument Rating checkride this afternoon >> (stress level has now decreased 100%) and the examiner said there was an >> RV-10 based at KUGN? >> >> If so and you're on this list, I'd enjoy the opportunity to come and >> check it out. I'm on the finish kit and still haven't flown in one. Hint >> Hint. :) >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: N541RV First Flight
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Its with great pleasure I get to announce the completion of First Flight for N541RV, previously known as,,, serial 40176. 8 years of work has paid off. msl. All went well, airplane handles like a dream. Explored low speed handling including near stall with flaps in and out, all normal and within a few knots of Van=99s numbers. Finished up with a smooth landing to cap off a perfect experience. All equipment under the hood and behind the instrument panel performed flawlessly. Wow, is all I have to say... Video to be edited and posted later this week, photos just prior to flight. Bob Newman N541RV....flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: N541RV First Flight
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Congratulations Bob. I was just checking the other day on your progress. It looks awesome Geoff Combs _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob-tcw Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 7:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: N541RV First Flight Its with great pleasure I get to announce the completion of First Flight for N541RV, previously known as,,, serial 40176. 8 years of work has paid off. All went well, airplane handles like a dream. Explored low speed handling including near stall with flaps in and out, all normal and within a few knots of Van's numbers. Finished up with a smooth landing to cap off a perfect experience. All equipment under the hood and behind the instrument panel performed flawlessly. Wow, is all I have to say... Video to be edited and posted later this week, photos just prior to flight. Bob Newman N541RV....flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: N541RV First Flight
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Great, Bob! Congratulations! There is no feeling in the world like making the first flight in an airplane you built yourself. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings Raleigh, NC _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob-tcw Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 7:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: N541RV First Flight Its with great pleasure I get to announce the completion of First Flight for N541RV, previously known as,,, serial 40176. 8 years of work has paid off. All went well, airplane handles like a dream. Explored low speed handling including near stall with flaps in and out, all normal and within a few knots of Van's numbers. Finished up with a smooth landing to cap off a perfect experience. All equipment under the hood and behind the instrument panel performed flawlessly. Wow, is all I have to say... Video to be edited and posted later this week, photos just prior to flight. Bob Newman N541RV....flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 At Waukegan (KUGN)?
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Sounds great....Onalaska is very close! Tim On Jan 24, 2012, at 5:54 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > I fly rental spam cans out of Lake in the Hills (3CK). I plan on flying up to see a friend this spring who lives near Onalaska. I was planning on trying to get up your way then. I'll definitely get back to you when spring rolls around. > > -Sean > > On 1/24/12 4:41 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >> >> Sean, >> >> That's awesome on the Instrument rating! You'll use it a lot. >> Are you based near KUGN or just in the area for a while? >> That's a ways from me, but just over an hour. I can't >> probably get down that way right now, but if you live >> around there maybe something can work this spring. >> Tim >> >> >> >> >> On 1/24/2012 3:39 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: >>> >>> I just finished passing my Instrument Rating checkride this afternoon >>> (stress level has now decreased 100%) and the examiner said there was an >>> RV-10 based at KUGN? >>> >>> If so and you're on this list, I'd enjoy the opportunity to come and >>> check it out. I'm on the finish kit and still haven't flown in one. Hint >>> Hint. :) >>> >>> -Sean #40303 >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N541RV First Flight
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Awesome news, Bob! Glad it went well! Make sure to bring that baby to OSH! Tim On Jan 24, 2012, at 6:03 PM, "bob-tcw" wrote: > Its with great pleasure I get to announce the completion of First Flight f or N541RV, previously known as,,, serial 40176. 8 years of work has paid off. > . All went well, airplane handles like a dream. Explored low speed ha ndling including near stall with flaps in and out, all normal and within a f ew knots of Van=99s numbers. Finished up with a smooth landing to c ap off a perfect experience. > > > All equipment under the hood and behind the instrument panel performed fla wlessly. > > Wow, is all I have to say... > > > Video to be edited and posted later this week, > > photos just prior to flight. > > > Bob Newman > N541RV....flying > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N541RV First Flight
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Congratulations Bob. It is definitely a performer isn't it. Enjoy the test flying and be safe. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 Bldr# 40983SB Started 12/1/2009 N715WD Flying 12/1/2011. Paint 2012. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364752#364752 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: N541RV First Flight
Date: Jan 24, 2012
All equipment under the hood and behind the instrument panel performed flawlessly. If only I could have said the same thing on my first flight, high oil pressure, high CHT, and constant =9Ccheck blah blah=9D on headset that really helped with my first flight. In time it all went away with a little coercing from a screw driver to get the ranges corrected. A testament to your great attention to detail before that first flight Bob! congratulations! Pascal From: bob-tcw Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 4:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: N541RV First Flight Its with great pleasure I get to announce the completion of First Flight for N541RV, previously known as,,, serial 40176. 8 years of work has paid off. msl. All went well, airplane handles like a dream. Explored low speed handling including near stall with flaps in and out, all normal and within a few knots of Van=99s numbers. Finished up with a smooth landing to cap off a perfect experience. All equipment under the hood and behind the instrument panel performed flawlessly. Wow, is all I have to say... Video to be edited and posted later this week, photos just prior to flight. Bob Newman N541RV....flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation?
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Hey Tom, You were the last on the list this time, so send it on back to me. If there are others interested, they can contact me and I'll send it along again. Later, - Lew Lew Gallagher 15 Chatelaine Dr. Greenville, SC 29615 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N541RV First Flight
From: Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Jan 24, 2012
Congrats and welcome to the other side! Bill Sent from my iPad > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob-tcw > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 7:03 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: N541RV First Flight > > Its with great pleasure I get to announce the completion of First Flight f or N541RV, previously known as,,, serial 40176. 8 years of work has paid off. > . All went well, airplane handles like a dream. Explored low speed ha ndling including near stall with flaps in and out, all normal and within a f ew knots of Van=99s numbers. Finished up with a smooth landing to c ap off a perfect experience. > > > All equipment under the hood and behind the instrument panel performed fla wlessly. > > Wow, is all I have to say... > > > Video to be edited and posted later this week, > > photos just prior to flight. > > > Bob Newman > N541RV....flying > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N541RV First Flight
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Jan 25, 2012
Congratulations Bob! Great looking paint and interior. Fantastic job on the panel! Bill Peyton -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364788#364788 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Barnes" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com>
Subject: N541RV First Flight
Date: Jan 25, 2012
Congratulations!! The plane looks great. Beautiful paint job. Rick From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob-tcw Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 5:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: N541RV First Flight Its with great pleasure I get to announce the completion of First Flight for N541RV, previously known as,,, serial 40176. 8 years of work has paid off. msl. All went well, airplane handles like a dream. Explored low speed handling including near stall with flaps in and out, all normal and within a few knots of Van=99s numbers. Finished up with a smooth landing to cap off a perfect experience. All equipment under the hood and behind the instrument panel performed flawlessly. Wow, is all I have to say... Video to be edited and posted later this week, photos just prior to flight. Bob Newman N541RV....flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bonanco brake lines
From: "Brian Steeves" <Brian.Steeves(at)Parkenna.com>
Date: Jan 25, 2012
I replaced every brake line with ones from Bonaco. They did a great job and everything fit great. Would definitely do it again. I gave him a couple of measurements but had all the rest. SHould have everything you need now. Brian Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364844#364844 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2012
From: Vijay Pisini <vijaypisini(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: N541RV First Flight
Bob,=0A=C2-=0ACongratulations!=C2- Worth the 8 years effort!!=C2- Enc ouraging for those of us in the building process.=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0Avj=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: bob-tcw <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com >=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 6:03 PM =0ASubject: RV10-List: N541RV First Flight=0A=0A=0AIts with great pleasure I get to announce the completion of First Flight for N541RV,=C2- previous ly known as,,,=C2- serial 40176.=C2-=C2- 8 years of work has paid off 00 msl.=C2-=C2-=C2- All went well,=C2- airplane handles like a drea m.=C2-=C2-=C2- Explored low speed handling including near stall with flaps in and out,=C2- all normal and within a few knots of Van=99s numbers.=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Finished up with a smooth landing to cap o ff a perfect experience.=0A=0A=0AAll equipment under the hood and behind th e instrument panel performed flawlessly.=0A=0AWow, is all I have to say... =0A=0A=0AVideo to be edited and posted later this week,=0A=0Aphotos just pr ior to flight.=0A=0A=0ABob Newman=0AN541RV....flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
I got my insurance renewal quote today, after over 800 hours of flight time in my RV-10, and an instrument rating. It's great to see that competition is alive in the insurance market again. From the sounds of it, AIG is back in, going after the RV pilots with high time in make/model, WITH an instrument rating, and courting them with low rates. My Global quote stayed the same this year at about $2710. My AIG quote ran $2248. I thought it was a no-brainer, even though in some ways Global covers a bit more things than AIG....I'd have to ditch Global for AIG. But, Jenny Estes at NationAir helped and took it one step further and asked Global if they could get close to that rate...and Global came back with $2275. So, they saved me as a customer this year again. This means that in 6 years, and 800+ hours, my rate has now dropped from $3440 or so, to $2275....keeping the hull value the same every year. Hope you all are seeing similar drops. I guess the moral is, pay the piper and build time...and definitely get that instrument rating, and over time you should see your flying pay back a little in terms of rates. Oh, BTW....I was wondering how an RV-10 compared to an expensive sports car, such as a Lamborghini Gallardo. I figured some of those cars have high "hull values" so they may make a good comparison to RV-10 insurance. Turns out that we make out pretty well. One forum I trolled to find quotes said that The Lamborghini would cost about $2300/mo. So, we look pretty good compared to that market. Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
Date: Jan 26, 2012
I just received the following quote through Britt/Paulk ($2,088), which was significantly less than Chartis ($3,500). I'm a 325 hr, IFR rated SEL, minimal HP and RV-10 time. . $160,000 hull value on 2011 Vans RV 10 . Deductibles: $50 not in motion; $250 in motion . Liability: $1 million/occurrence with sublimit of $100,000 per passenger . Med pay: $5,000 per passenger including crew . Britt/Paulk offers premium financing for your convenience . Total annual premium for all risk ground and flight coverage $2088 . This would be a named pilot only policy. . It appears that they would approve you as pilot and would require you to obtain 2 hours of solo flight in this make and model aircraft prior to carrying passengers. My agent is: Candy Eichenberger Avinsure Agency, Inc. PO Box 1600, Powell, OH 43065 Phone: 7408814188 Fax: 7408814409 Toll free: 888 GR8-2-FLY Email: ceichenberger(at)avinsureagency.com www.avinsureagency.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 3:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo I got my insurance renewal quote today, after over 800 hours of flight time in my RV-10, and an instrument rating. It's great to see that competition is alive in the insurance market again. >From the sounds of it, AIG is back in, going after the RV pilots with high time in make/model, WITH an instrument rating, and courting them with low rates. My Global quote stayed the same this year at about $2710. My AIG quote ran $2248. I thought it was a no-brainer, even though in some ways Global covers a bit more things than AIG....I'd have to ditch Global for AIG. But, Jenny Estes at NationAir helped and took it one step further and asked Global if they could get close to that rate...and Global came back with $2275. So, they saved me as a customer this year again. This means that in 6 years, and 800+ hours, my rate has now dropped from $3440 or so, to $2275....keeping the hull value the same every year. Hope you all are seeing similar drops. I guess the moral is, pay the piper and build time...and definitely get that instrument rating, and over time you should see your flying pay back a little in terms of rates. Oh, BTW....I was wondering how an RV-10 compared to an expensive sports car, such as a Lamborghini Gallardo. I figured some of those cars have high "hull values" so they may make a good comparison to RV-10 insurance. Turns out that we make out pretty well. One forum I trolled to find quotes said that The Lamborghini would cost about $2300/mo. So, we look pretty good compared to that market. Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jan 26, 2012
Bob, That is a great price. As best I can tell, Britt/Paulk is an "agency for agencies". Is that correct? Do you know the actual company (s) underwriting the policy? Last summer the best I could do for a similar policy was $3800, and I have 2000+ TT, 1000+ HP time, instrument, commercial, cfii, but at the time only 20 hrs of RV-10 time. Hopefully next year will be better! Bob -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364906#364906 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
Date: Jan 26, 2012
I got a quote from Skysmith. I am a low (fix wing) time pilot and Britt/Paulk came as the lowest for the same coverage. I was quite happy with Skysmith. Pascal -----Original Message----- From: Bob Turner Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 5:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo Bob, That is a great price. As best I can tell, Britt/Paulk is an "agency for agencies". Is that correct? Do you know the actual company (s) underwriting the policy? Last summer the best I could do for a similar policy was $3800, and I have 2000+ TT, 1000+ HP time, instrument, commercial, cfii, but at the time only 20 hrs of RV-10 time. Hopefully next year will be better! Bob -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364906#364906 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 26, 2012
Britt Paulk- Jeff Rhodes, CS&A Insurance- Taylorsville GA. RV driver too. $2138, 135K, vfr, low timer 200 hrs. I am very happy with them. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 362nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364919#364919 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: First flight video N541RV
Date: Jan 26, 2012
Here=99s a really lame attempt at editing some of the video together from my first flight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE9SsXji6Fs Bob Newman 40176 ...flying N541RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2012
From: "Sean S. Blair" <dogsbark(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: First flight video N541RV
Bob, Enjoyed the video and looks like a great plane.=C2- Congrats! Sean Blair RV7 COS ----- Original Message ----- From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 9:02:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: First flight video N541RV Here=99s a really lame attempt at editing some of the video together from my first flight.=C2- =C2- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE9SsXji6Fs =C2- =C2- Bob Newman 40176=C2- ...flying ============ == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
Date: Jan 27, 2012
I don't have much more info than what I posted. I'm not going to be airborne until June, so I haven't been big rush to compare all the T&C's yet. I just heard via the grapevine that Britt/Paulk was issuing policies at a great rate and wanted to know what they would offer me. The $1,500 reduction will take a big chunk out the Phase I fuel bill. I listed my agent, feel free to give her a call or one of the other agents that have been talked about to answer your questions. bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 8:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo Bob, That is a great price. As best I can tell, Britt/Paulk is an "agency for agencies". Is that correct? Do you know the actual company (s) underwriting the policy? Last summer the best I could do for a similar policy was $3800, and I have 2000+ TT, 1000+ HP time, instrument, commercial, cfii, but at the time only 20 hrs of RV-10 time. Hopefully next year will be better! Bob -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364906#364906 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Midwest Paint Shops
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Looking for a paint shop for my RV-10, preferably in the Midwest. I live in SE Michigan. Not looking to spend top dollar for the award winning finish, but want a nice 3-color paint job for the money. Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-10 Flying Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
From: William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
I have heard good things about the paint shop at Benton harbor (KBEH). Bill Working on the wings Greenley On Jan 27, 2012 7:36 AM, "Michael Kraus" wrote: > > > > Looking for a paint shop for my RV-10, preferably in the Midwest. I live > in SE Michigan. > > Not looking to spend top dollar for the award winning finish, but want a > nice 3-color paint job for the money. > > Thanks > -Mike Kraus > RV-10 Flying > > Sent from my iPhone > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: First flight video N541RV
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Bob The music is very good, the rest not so....... Just kidding Very nice and good looking airplane, good take-off, excellent landing! Congrats Carlos Trigo Portugal (Europe) helping a friend building #40788 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob-tcw Sent: sexta-feira, 27 de Janeiro de 2012 4:02 Subject: RV10-List: First flight video N541RV Here's a really lame attempt at editing some of the video together from my first flight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE9SsXji6Fs Bob Newman 40176 ...flying N541RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
They might be on the higher end of things, but Wipaire at my home field of KSGS South Saint Paul, MN has a very good paint shop. If you were at OSH11, Wipaire had the tiger painted Kodiak on floats. On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 6:44 AM, William Greenley wrote: > I have heard good things about the paint shop at Benton harbor (KBEH). > Bill > Working on the wings > Greenley > On Jan 27, 2012 7:36 AM, "Michael Kraus" > wrote: > >> n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> >> >> Looking for a paint shop for my RV-10, preferably in the Midwest. I live >> in SE Michigan. >> >> Not looking to spend top dollar for the award winning finish, but want a >> nice 3-color paint job for the money. >> >> Thanks >> -Mike Kraus >> RV-10 Flying >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> ========== >> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> le, List Admin. >> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
That's great that you guys are finding similar competition in the rates this year. It's a tremendous relief from what it was a few years ago. Your rate is a bit lower but the hull value is lower by a ways too, so mine is in the same range. One thing to mention is that I actually did NOT choose the cheapest option that I could have. You have to look at the whole policy and see what options are included and make sense. I didn't go with AIG this year again, because they don't have quite the same benefit level as Global. With the traveling to Bahamas/Mexico and this year Alaska, there are some things that are covered that others don't, such as I have coverage for Search and Recovery costs, and even a $10,000 coverage for off-airport precautionary landings. So if I find myself with a rough engine and need to land on a beach, they'll cover up to $10,000 in costs to get it moved to somewhere else so I can fix it and take off. Global also has double the medical payments coverage than AIG pays. Also, some policies don't cover anyone counted as "crew"...and with a wife pilot in the family, I want to make sure that there's no question that she's covered. Some also don't pay for pilot medical out of the same coverage line item. So as usual, when looking solely at the dollar cost, you don't get apples to apples. I know that Jenny got quotes from more places than what I cared to look at, but I don't know if Britt/Paulk was one of them, but she knew me and my flying plans, so we looked at the ones that fit my flying plans the best. Personally, I'm just thrilled that my rate is over $1200 less than when I started flying the plane. At the level it's at right now, it's actually bargain insurance compared to the $900/yr I used to pay for a Beech Sundowner...because the hull value there at $50K was way under 3X what the RV-10 is. Some of this is a testament to YOU all, too. I greatly appreciate that we've had so few fatal RV-10 accidents. There are kitbuilt communities that have nowhere near the safety record the RV-10's do. The sad side is that the fatals we did have, shouldn't have ever happened in the first place, but at least the count isn't rising very rapidly. Kudos to Van's too, for designing a pretty safe and reliable aircraft! Oh, and for you first-time RV-10 flyers, make sure to ask specifically about your coverage during your first flight, first 10 hours, and flyoff time. There are big differences in what various companies will cover. Make sure you get the policy that fits you best. Tim On 1/27/2012 5:26 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" > > I don't have much more info than what I posted. I'm not going to be > airborne until June, so I haven't been big rush to compare all the T&C's > yet. I just heard via the grapevine that Britt/Paulk was issuing policies > at a great rate and wanted to know what they would offer me. The $1,500 > reduction will take a big chunk out the Phase I fuel bill. > > I listed my agent, feel free to give her a call or one of the other agents > that have been talked about to answer your questions. > > bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 8:06 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Turner" > > Bob, > > That is a great price. As best I can tell, Britt/Paulk is an "agency for > agencies". Is that correct? Do you know the actual company (s) underwriting > the policy? > > Last summer the best I could do for a similar policy was $3800, and I have > 2000+ TT, 1000+ HP time, instrument, commercial, cfii, but at the time only > 20 hrs of RV-10 time. Hopefully next year will be better! > > Bob > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Wipaire at South St. Paul in Minnesota (KSGS) is a great shop. They are not the cheapest, but the work is very high quality. They were willing to give me space in their shop to disassemble the airplane for paint and then to re-assemble it after paint. I felt much better about doing it that way rather than having the paint shop remove and re-install the flight controls. I was concerned about having someone that had never worked on an RV-10 do that work, and I wanted to put things back together for my own peace of mind. Three and a half years later the paint still looks fantastic. (except for a few owner induced boo-boos :-( ) David Maib 40559 Flying On Jan 27, 2012, at 7:29 AM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > > Looking for a paint shop for my RV-10, preferably in the Midwest. > I live in SE Michigan. > > Not looking to spend top dollar for the award winning finish, but > want a nice 3-color paint job for the money. > > Thanks > -Mike Kraus > RV-10 Flying > > Sent from my iPhone > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Be careful Tim. Most insurance for Alaska does NOT cover north of the Arctic Circle. In many places the Arctic Circle is a bit south of the Yukon River. Many airports are north of the Arctic Circle. The only rational reason for this limitation is higher cost of repair/recovery(not to mention finding survivors or wreckage) and it is a convenient place for the underwriters to draw the line. I didn't let that impede where I went in Alaska, but I also assumed all hull risk, because for Alaska based aircraft hull coverage is probably more than twice the rate in lower 48. On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 7:31 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > That's great that you guys are finding similar competition in > the rates this year. It's a tremendous relief from what it was > a few years ago. Your rate is a bit lower but the hull value > is lower by a ways too, so mine is in the same range. > One thing to mention is that I actually did NOT choose the > cheapest option that I could have. You have to look at > the whole policy and see what options are included and make > sense. I didn't go with AIG this year again, because they don't > have quite the same benefit level as Global. With the traveling > to Bahamas/Mexico and this year Alaska, there are some things > that are covered that others don't, such as I have coverage > for Search and Recovery costs, and even a $10,000 coverage for > off-airport precautionary landings. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kitlog help
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2012
I hope the brain trust can help me with a problem. I did a pretty extensive update to my construction log last night, but when I went to print the new pages to add to my hardcopy, I discovered that my pagination was off. Trying to sort out the problem, I discovered that the pictures from the bottom row of each page are rolling over to the next page thereby increasing my total number of pages and throwing off the pagination. On several previous updates, this never happened before, but I can't seem to find a way to get it back to the way it was. Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364939#364939 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Several years ago I added a 17 year old student pilot son to my insurance on a Socata Tampico. The cost to add him to the policy with a 70 k hull value and 1million liability was less than it was to insure him in an old beater pickup with zero hull value and only 30k liability. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364940#364940 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2012
From: "egodfrey(at)ameritech.net" <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
Mike, I belong to a flying club at KDPA and we had one of our 172's painted at Flying Colors in Benton Harbor. Ken did a real nice job and I am planning on taking my 10 there when I get ready for painting. Ed Godfrey 40717 On 1/27/2012 6:44 AM, William Greenley wrote: > > I have heard good things about the paint shop at Benton harbor (KBEH). > Bill > Working on the wings > Greenley > > On Jan 27, 2012 7:36 AM, "Michael Kraus" > wrote: > > > > > Looking for a paint shop for my RV-10, preferably in the Midwest. > I live in SE Michigan. > > Not looking to spend top dollar for the award winning finish, but > want a nice 3-color paint job for the money. > > Thanks > -Mike Kraus > RV-10 Flying > > Sent from my iPhone > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kitlog help
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2012
The conversion routines for print output just plain suck it Kitlog. I've attempted to work on this issue with Matt on multiple occasions over the years. I'm not optimistic that there will ever be a new release that fixes all the issues. In that regards, I've come up with many workarounds. In this case, I have acrobat installed which includes a PDF print driver. I just use the native print command going to a PDF file, which solves the issue you describe. Spending time on getting his embedded crystal report module to work right won't be time well spent. There are several other errors like this that pop up when your db reaches a certain size. Print to a PDF and not using the report module converts has solved them all for me. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 27, 2012, at 10:11 AM, "woxofswa" wrote: I hope the brain trust can help me with a problem. I did a pretty extensive update to my construction log last night, but when I went to print the new pages to add to my hardcopy, I discovered that my pagination was off. Trying to sort out the problem, I discovered that the pictures from the bottom row of each page are rolling over to the next page thereby increasing my total number of pages and throwing off the pagination. On several previous updates, this never happened before, but I can't seem to find a way to get it back to the way it was. Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364939#364939 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kitlog help
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Thanks Bob, I'll give that a try. At the same time as dealing with this fiasco, I'm dealing with the Mediasearch virus and am about to let my computer say hello to my "little friend" H&K .40 -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364967#364967 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Prices vary greatly...$7,000-$13,000. You know which end of the scale I chose. It won't win awards and it is going to be hangared 99% of its life. My paint guy is in SE Ohio. David Maib's paint job looked excellent back in November 2011 for transition trng. I am like David...I'll take it apart and reassemble myself. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364978#364978 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
Date: Jan 27, 2012
I had the exact same experience when I added my son to my Cherokee. I think I paid $300 to add him to the Cherokee and $1,400 for his ten year old Grand Prix. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa Sent: Friday, January 27, 2012 10:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo Several years ago I added a 17 year old student pilot son to my insurance on a Socata Tampico. The cost to add him to the policy with a 70 k hull value and 1million liability was less than it was to insure him in an old beater pickup with zero hull value and only 30k liability. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364940#364940 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kitlog help
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2012
I tried the PDF option, but just keep getting an "unhandled exception" message and then it either quits or locks up. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=364991#364991 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2012
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: First flight video N541RV
Just saw your first flight video Bob.=C2- Nice....=C2-If that plane is decked out anything like your workshop it will a sight to behold. =C2- Nice looking winter weather too. =C2- Congrats =C2- Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont --- On Fri, 1/27/12, bob-tcw wrote: From: bob-tcw <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> Subject: RV10-List: First flight video N541RV Received: Friday, January 27, 2012, 4:02 AM Here=99s a really lame attempt at editing some of the video together from my first flight.=C2- =C2- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE9SsXji6Fs =C2- =C2- Bob Newman 40176=C2- ...flying N541RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2012
Subject: Loose aileron hinge bearings
I'm doing annual no. 5 and I see there's some looseness in 3 of the 4 aileron hinge bearings. If I lift up or push/pull on the aileron I can feel a little click and see a tiny bit of movement. I can't say I've seen this before, but I don't think I really looked for it. I have to look more carefully than I do on a preflight, but now that I'm looking, it's obvious. The plane has 988 hours. I measured the play with a dial indicator and it's about .010" radially between the inner ball and the outer race. I'm almost certain the outer race is tight in the hinge bracket since I can see part of the outer race with the aileron removed. I know on other homebuilts the ailerons can buzz when the hinges get loose. Not flutter, just a high frequency hum. I don't notice anything like that in flight. Has anyone else seen this? Can someone with newer bearings try the same thing and let me know if you feel any looseness? I called the factory and Gus' impression was that it's probably not an issue. Most of my experience with worn spherical bearings is on helicopters, and these would just be approaching "boarderline". What do you guys think? Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2012
Subject: Re: Loose aileron hinge bearings
From: James McGrew <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu>
I just checked mine. Similiar to what you describe on 3 of 4 hinge bearings. Just enough play to feel a slight click when pushed on. 200 hours on my -10, so I'm guessing that's what it was like when new. -Jim N312JE On 1/27/12, Dave Saylor wrote: > > > I'm doing annual no. 5 and I see there's some looseness in 3 of the 4 > aileron hinge bearings. If I lift up or push/pull on the aileron I > can feel a little click and see a tiny bit of movement. I can't say > I've seen this before, but I don't think I really looked for it. I > have to look more carefully than I do on a preflight, but now that I'm > looking, it's obvious. The plane has 988 hours. > > I measured the play with a dial indicator and it's about .010" > radially between the inner ball and the outer race. I'm almost > certain the outer race is tight in the hinge bracket since I can see > part of the outer race with the aileron removed. > > I know on other homebuilts the ailerons can buzz when the hinges get > loose. Not flutter, just a high frequency hum. I don't notice > anything like that in flight. > > Has anyone else seen this? Can someone with newer bearings try the > same thing and let me know if you feel any looseness? > > I called the factory and Gus' impression was that it's probably not an > issue. Most of my experience with worn spherical bearings is on > helicopters, and these would just be approaching "boarderline". > > What do you guys think? > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > -- Sent from my mobile device ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2012
Subject: Re: Loose aileron hinge bearings
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Dave, I agree with you. I would monitor them and see if it gets any worse. If they get any worse, I think it would be worth the peace of mind to replace them. Control surfaces are not an area you want to tolerate much play. Of course, if you get the chance to be somewhere that 410RV happens to be on the ramp, you could see how the "original" is faring in this department. Maybe you could even get that infamous Tech Counselor (initials of Cox) that resides near the factory to do a surreptitious check of that aircraft or 220RV for you. On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 10:54 PM, Dave Saylor < dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> wrote: > > I know on other homebuilts the ailerons can buzz when the hinges get > loose. Not flutter, just a high frequency hum. I don't notice > anything like that in flight. > > Has anyone else seen this? Can someone with newer bearings try the > same thing and let me know if you feel any looseness? > > I called the factory and Gus' impression was that it's probably not an > issue. Most of my experience with worn spherical bearings is on > helicopters, and these would just be approaching "boarderline". > > What do you guys think? > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 28, 2012
Subject: Re: Loose aileron hinge bearings
Yeah, Gus and I talked a little bit about the easiest way to replace them (none). It wouldn't be that bad, but I'll avoid it a long as possible. If others note the same thing on newer ships then I'll fly it and watch it. I'm all ears for an Aurora report. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Jan 28, 2012 at 6:47 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > Dave, > I agree with you. I would monitor them and see if it gets any worse. If they > get any worse, I think it would be worth the peace of mind to replace them. > Control surfaces are not an area you want to tolerate much play. Of course, > if you get the chance to be somewhere that 410RV happens to be on the ramp, > you could see how the "original" is faring in this department. Maybe you > could even get that infamous Tech Counselor (initials of Cox) that resides > near the factory to do a surreptitious check of that aircraft or 220RV for > you. > > On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 10:54 PM, Dave Saylor > wrote: >> >> >> I know on other homebuilts the ailerons can buzz when the hinges get >> loose. Not flutter, just a high frequency hum. I don't notice >> anything like that in flight. >> >> Has anyone else seen this? Can someone with newer bearings try the >> same thing and let me know if you feel any looseness? >> >> I called the factory and Gus' impression was that it's probably not an >> issue. Most of my experience with worn spherical bearings is on >> helicopters, and these would just be approaching "boarderline". >> >> What do you guys think? >> >> Dave Saylor >> AirCrafters >> 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 95076 >> 831-722-9141Shop >> 831-750-0284Cell >> >> ========== >> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> le, List Admin. >> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 28, 2012
Subject: Re: Loose aileron hinge bearings
Thanks, Jim. That's what I was hoping. I don't think those bearings live a very hard life so it wouldn't make a lot of sense for them to be worn out already. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Jan 28, 2012 at 5:50 AM, James McGrew wrote: > > I just checked mine. Similiar to what you describe on 3 of 4 hinge > bearings. Just enough play to feel a slight click when pushed on. 200 > hours on my -10, so I'm guessing that's what it was like when new. > > -Jim > N312JE > > > On 1/27/12, Dave Saylor wrote: >> >> >> I'm doing annual no. 5 and I see there's some looseness in 3 of the 4 >> aileron hinge bearings. If I lift up or push/pull on the aileron I >> can feel a little click and see a tiny bit of movement. I can't say >> I've seen this before, but I don't think I really looked for it. I >> have to look more carefully than I do on a preflight, but now that I'm >> looking, it's obvious. The plane has 988 hours. >> >> I measured the play with a dial indicator and it's about .010" >> radially between the inner ball and the outer race. I'm almost >> certain the outer race is tight in the hinge bracket since I can see >> part of the outer race with the aileron removed. >> >> I know on other homebuilts the ailerons can buzz when the hinges get >> loose. Not flutter, just a high frequency hum. I don't notice >> anything like that in flight. >> >> Has anyone else seen this? Can someone with newer bearings try the >> same thing and let me know if you feel any looseness? >> >> I called the factory and Gus' impression was that it's probably not an >> issue. Most of my experience with worn spherical bearings is on >> helicopters, and these would just be approaching "boarderline". >> >> What do you guys think? >> >> Dave Saylor >> AirCrafters >> 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 95076 >> 831-722-9141 Shop >> 831-750-0284 Cell >> >> >> >> >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N541RV First Flight
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 28, 2012

December 28, 2011 - January 28, 2012

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