RV10-List Archive Browser

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ip
January 28, 2012 - February 28, 2012

Congratulations! I like the paint job and hope the plane flies as well. With some luck I may get air under my tires this summer. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - Working G3X panel Rest almost done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365025#365025 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: First flight video N541RV
Date: Jan 28, 2012
Nice job Bob!! ...Your fellow 8 year builder -Chris Lucas N919AR flying From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob-tcw Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 11:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: First flight video N541RV Here=99s a really lame attempt at editing some of the video together from my first flight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE9SsXji6Fs Bob Newman 40176 ...flying N541RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: re: N541RV first flight
Date: Jan 29, 2012
Agreed, Dave. As Bill Stout (designer of the Ford Trimotor) used to say, "Simplicate and add Lightness" Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (finally finished the ailerons!) Raleigh, NC That doesn't mean that people should just keep piling stuff in. It adds up FAST and it's really easy to end up with a lot more weight than you expected. I almost always recommend to customers to pare it back a little, mostly because of weight and to keep the mindset that lighter is better. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: PS Engineering PMA9000EX FOR SALE
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2012
This is still for sale and with a reduced price of $1150.00 OBO. Free shipping anywhere in continental US -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Flying 40033 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365143#365143 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Empty weight
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jan 29, 2012
N48HT BEW = 1605 lbs full ifr w/ GRT HX, HS, EIS; Dynon D6 backup w/ battery. G420, SL-30, GTX 327, home-made audio panel, xm weather radio. Trio Pro auto pilot w/ auto trim. Interior and exterior primed; exterior has a thin (too thin) coat of PTI enamel poorly sprayed by me. Cowling shows the hex pattern, I don't fill enough. Interior has some carpet and leather seat coverings but nothing else. Cabin top spray painted with Rust-O-lium because I couldn't stand the pink. Definitely need good headphones, but with them the noise level is okay. Standard engine (D4A5). I am happy to trade the unsightly interior (in some peoples' eyes - I think it's fine) and slightly higher noise level and more uneven heating in the winter for the unbelievable climb rate, ceiling, and load carrying capability. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365165#365165 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Empty weight
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2012
Ewcg= 7.7" @ 1626 lbs w/o ext paint. 2 grt hx, 430w, pma8000b, g327, sl-40, dynon d6, g496, tt df2 ap, ak451 406 elt, painted int, cloth seats, 925/680 bat in back, 55 watt dw hids, whelen strobes, roll trim, sean's latch kit, d4a5, hartzell 2bl ba...flies like a dream. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365179#365179 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2012
Subject: Re: Empty weight
Wayne, if you can let us know what the paint ends up weighing it'll make a good data point. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 6:20 PM, rv10flyer wrote: > > Ewcg= 7.7" @ 1626 lbs w/o ext paint. 2 grt hx, 430w, pma8000b, g327, sl-40, dynon d6, g496, tt df2 ap, ak451 406 elt, painted int, cloth seats, 925/680 bat in back, 55 watt dw hids, whelen strobes, roll trim, sean's latch kit, d4a5, hartzell 2bl ba...flies like a dream. > > -------- > Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 > 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 > N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365179#365179 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Empty weight
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 30, 2012
I will let you guys know on here about the paint. I would imagine there is some differences in all of our scales too. Mine were race car scales, but not certified. I stepped on each scale just to see how it compared to my home bathroom scales. Reading on all three were within 1 lb. I told Ken Scott at Van's what I had in it and he guessed the wt within a few lbs. I would think it would be very difficult to get under 1600 lbs for a painted ifr bird. It could be done as you will see below, I could have saved at least 60 lbs. That would have put me right at 1600 lbs with paint. Would I fly my family vfr on top or ifr in it...No way. As it is, I am near 2700 lbs with "healthy" family and 99 lbs baggage. It still climbs out at a steady 1500 fpm nicely. Sure beats 600 fpm in the 172S. The places I could have saved weight are the following: Flap position(show planes) with one extra wire. Nice for go arounds. Seans latch kit. Nice to have doors remain intact. 680 aux bat & 10 ga wire/12 sp aux fuse block. Nice 1 hr full panel pwr. Aux contactor. Nice to start either bat. Hot bat bus fuse block, 6 space. Efis clock/int lights. 2- 18-3 shielded cable spares from panel to tailcone. ADS-B? Mb ant & coax to left wing tip. Not req but nice to have. Lighter prop. I liked David Maib's composite. Smaller gauge wiring on entire plane. Slightly less proseal. Almost a qt per tank...no leaks. No firewall or bottom tunnel fiberfrax insulation. Hope to keep fire in cyl's. No roll trim, cable, wire. Never used w/fuel balanced with or w/o ap on. Vertical Power- don't know wt savings over my tog sw/fuses. Say Bob L.? -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365205#365205 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2012
From: David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Dave Hertner - Kit Aircraft Mods Blog
Hi Everyone, I have a couple of announcements. First is that I have passed my final inspection and have received my Certificate of Airworthiness. I am hoping for the spring weather to hurry up and arrive but until then there are still a bunch of little things to get ready before the first flight. Building time is right around 7 years. Second is that I would like to invite all of you to sign up for my Blog. Kit Aircraft Mods. I will publish any type of mod that you have made to your plane. It is for all aircraft but there is a lot of Van's related content. You can find it here: www.kitaircraftmods.com <http://www.kitaircraftmods.com> Dave Hertner ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Gipson <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Dave Hertner - Kit Aircraft Mods Blog
Date: Jan 30, 2012
Way to go Dave! Congratulations. You'll love the way she flies. The Blog is good stuff. Thanks for getting this out there. You've already got me thinking about a couple of things. All the best and good luck with your first flight. Bill Gipson > Date: Mon=2C 30 Jan 2012 21:56:37 -0500 > From: effectus(at)rogers.com > To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Dave Hertner - Kit Aircraft Mods Blog > > > Hi Everyone=2C > > I have a couple of announcements. > > First is that I have passed my final inspection > and have received my Certificate of Airworthiness. > I am hoping for the spring weather to hurry up and > arrive but until then there are still a bunch of > little things to get ready before the first flight. > Building time is right around 7 years. > > Second is that I would like to invite all of you > to sign up for my Blog. Kit Aircraft Mods. > I will publish any type of mod that you have made > to your plane. It is for all aircraft but there is > a lot of Van's related content. > You can find it here: > > www.kitaircraftmods.com > <http://www.kitaircraftmods.com> > > Dave Hertner > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Emp on it's way!
From: "EdKranz" <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 31, 2012
As of this morning, I am officially RV10 builder # 41347! My empannage is being crated and shipped to sunny Minnesota as I type this. Now, all that's left to do is everything. Now I may have one or two (or a hundred) questions as time goes on, so I hope you all are up for helping a newbie out! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365307#365307 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2012
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Emp on it's way!
Congratulations Ed Enjoy the journey. Make sure you review Tim Olsen's site. It has some of the best information and compilation of gotcha's and recommendations. Dr Fred 400 hrs. On 1/31/2012 11:19 AM, EdKranz wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "EdKranz" > > As of this morning, I am officially RV10 builder # 41347! My empannage is being crated and shipped to sunny Minnesota as I type this. > > Now, all that's left to do is everything. > > Now I may have one or two (or a hundred) questions as time goes on, so I hope you all are up for helping a newbie out! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365307#365307 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Emp on it's way!
From: Mike Schulz <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 31, 2012
Great to here of another one in MN. Where are you located? I'm in Mound MN. Sent from my iPad On Jan 31, 2012, at 11:19 AM, "EdKranz" wrote: > > As of this morning, I am officially RV10 builder # 41347! My empannage is being crated and shipped to sunny Minnesota as I type this. > > Now, all that's left to do is everything. > > Now I may have one or two (or a hundred) questions as time goes on, so I hope you all are up for helping a newbie out! > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365307#365307 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2012
From: speckter(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Emp on it's way!
I have one at Lino Airpark 6 months of the year, the rest is too cold and I head south. Gary Specketer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Schulz" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 2:16:50 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emp on it's way! Great to here of another one in MN. Where are you located? I'm in Mound MN. Sent from my iPad On Jan 31, 2012, at 11:19 AM, "EdKranz" wrote: > > As of this morning, I am officially RV10 builder # 41347! My empannage is being crated and shipped to sunny Minnesota as I type this. > > Now, all that's left to do is everything. > > Now I may have one or two (or a hundred) questions as time goes on, so I hope you all are up for helping a newbie out! > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365307#365307 > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== MS - =========== e - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin. =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2012
Subject: Re: Emp on it's way!
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Mike: I'm down in Hastings, so not too far from you. My wife hasn't flown in a 10 yet, so I'd love to find someone close that would help me demonstrate why I'm spending all "her" money! Dr. Fred: Tim's site was the first one I found when I started researching what my dream plane would be over a year ago. I'm voracious when it comes to knowing all there is to know about something that interests me, so I've spent MANY hours on Tim's and most of the other 10 builder pages... along with the Matronics lists and VAF. But since Tim's site was first one I saw, I'll give him the credit/blame! On Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 2:17 PM, wrote: > I have one at Lino Airpark 6 months of the year, the rest is too cold and > I head south. > > > Gary Specketer > > ------------------------------ > > *From: *"Mike Schulz" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> > *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent: *Tuesday, January 31, 2012 2:16:50 PM > *Subject: *Re: RV10-List: Emp on it's way! > > > Great to here of another one in MN. > Where are you located? > I'm in Mound MN. > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jan 31, 2012, at 11:19 AM, "EdKranz" wrote: > > > > > As of this morning, I am officially RV10 builder # 41347! My empannage > is being crated and shipped to sunny Minnesota as I type this. > > > > Now, all that's left to do is everything. > > > > Now I may have one or two (or a hundred) questions as time goes on, so I > hope you all are up for helping a newbie out! > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365307#365307 > > > > > > > > > > > > > &sp; & > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Emp on it's way!
From: Mike Schulz <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 31, 2012
I got my first ride from Tim last fall and have been revved up since. I got my fuselage 90 percent and my wings 95 percent and soon I will be look ing at engines and Avionics. Mike Schulz. 612-590-8604 let's talk sometime. Sent from my iPad On Jan 31, 2012, at 3:01 PM, Ed Kranz wrote: > Mike: > I'm down in Hastings, so not too far from you. My wife hasn't flown in a 1 0 yet, so I'd love to find someone close that would help me demonstrate why I 'm spending all "her" money! > > Dr. Fred: > Tim's site was the first one I found when I started researching what my dr eam plane would be over a year ago. I'm voracious when it comes to knowing a ll there is to know about something that interests me, so I've spent MANY ho urs on Tim's and most of the other 10 builder pages... along with the Matron ics lists and VAF. > > But since Tim's site was first one I saw, I'll give him the credit/blame! > > On Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 2:17 PM, wrote: > I have one at Lino Airpark 6 months of the year, the rest is too cold and I head south. > > > > Gary Specketer > > > From: "Mike Schulz" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 2:16:50 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emp on it's way! > > > > > Great to here of another one in MN. > Where are you located? > I'm in Mound MN. > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jan 31, 2012, at 11:19 AM, "EdKranz" wrote: > > > > > As of this morning, I am officially RV10 builder # 41347! My empannage i s being crated and shipped to sunny Minnesota as I type this. > > > > Now, all that's left to do is everything. > > > > Now I may have one or two (or a hundred) questions as time goes on, so I hope you all are up for helping a newbie out! > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365307#365307 > > > > > > > > > > > > > &sp; & > > > > > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2012
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: pdf plans
Hi all - When-I last went on vacation I had a link to someones Picassa web site th at contained PDF's of all or most of the RV10 plans.- It appears I have d eleted that email link from my laptop.- I seem to recall someone named "C hris" had the pdf's (I could be totally wrong on this).- If that person i s still online I'd sure love to get that link back again (it worked very we ll), or if anyone has the link please forward to me off line or however you like. Thx in advance. - Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: new BP reward program
Date: Feb 03, 2012
They have secured first place in the "Baffle them with BS" contest. The old program was straight forward percentages of purchase; now they obfuscate the situation with cents per gallon. Plug in some numbers and see that they are limiting the fuel purchase rebate to fewer than 3% at today's prices whereas their old rate was 5%. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com>
Subject: Proper nyloc nut torquing
Date: Feb 03, 2012
Hi there. When I first started building my RV10, I was introduced to "proper" torquing of nuts, and probably like most people, was surprised at how light typical torquing forces were. Most of my life, I'd been overtorquing nuts, and it's nice to finally know how to do it right. But I'm the sort of person who when I learn something want to learn it fully, and now I'm not sure I actually *have* been doing it right. Like probably most people, I've been following Van's guidelines in section 5V for torquing. I've found that this corresponds with AC43.13-1B, Table 7-1 (with a small deviation for AN10 bolts, but I haven't ran into anything that big yet), so it seems like a reliable guide. The only problem is that AC43.13-1B specifies those torque values are for oil-free cadmium-plated (but otherwise standard) fine threads.. not particularly for nylocs. And most of Van's nuts are nylocs. Proper torquing values take into account friction between the face of the nut and the surface, force required to lengthen the bolt (which is ultimately what a specified torque is trying to control), and dry thread friction. But nylocs have far more dry thread friction than standard nuts - that's what they're for, after all. Measuring the prevailing torque on AN3- and AN4-sized nuts (before the face of the nut contacts the surface), I've found a few foot pounds of torque required to just overcome the nyloc's friction. Installing into nutplates usually requires even more prevailing torque than nylocs do. >From what I've read, this sort of prevailing torque should really be added to the final installed torque. And that makes sense - a nyloc or nutplate's internal friction does nothing to add stress to a bolt under load - it only adds stress while the nut is actually being torqued (and of course, helps prevent the nut from loosening later on its own) I know this is pretty much nit-picking - thousands of RVs have been built and are flying fine, and I'd be willing to wager than 90% or more of the builders never worry about this and just used the torque values that Van's quoted. The torque values specify a range anyway. But I'm doing this as more an exercise of understanding the engineering involved. Am I correct in this assumption, and that theoretically the prevailing torque of nylocs and/or nutplates should be added to the torque values Van's provides? That would add a few extra foot pounds to the torque values aimed for, which might at least have a small significance for smaller bolts like the AN3s which aren't torqued very high in the first place. Dan -- Syzygy Research & Technology Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Proper nyloc nut torquing
Date: Feb 03, 2012
I think you have it correct. But, I just set my wrench to the high side of the range and went for it. I could not figure out how to accurately measure the resistance..... Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Charrois Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:17 PM Subject: RV10-List: Proper nyloc nut torquing Hi there. When I first started building my RV10, I was introduced to "proper" torquing of nuts, and probably like most people, was surprised at how light typical torquing forces were. Most of my life, I'd been overtorquing nuts, and it's nice to finally know how to do it right. But I'm the sort of person who when I learn something want to learn it fully, and now I'm not sure I actually *have* been doing it right. Like probably most people, I've been following Van's guidelines in section 5V for torquing. I've found that this corresponds with AC43.13-1B, Table 7-1 (with a small deviation for AN10 bolts, but I haven't ran into anything that big yet), so it seems like a reliable guide. The only problem is that AC43.13-1B specifies those torque values are for oil-free cadmium-plated (but otherwise standard) fine threads.. not particularly for nylocs. And most of Van's nuts are nylocs. Proper torquing values take into account friction between the face of the nut and the surface, force required to lengthen the bolt (which is ultimately what a specified torque is trying to control), and dry thread friction. But nylocs have far more dry thread friction than standard nuts - that's what they're for, after all. Measuring the prevailing torque on AN3- and AN4-sized nuts (before the face of the nut contacts the surface), I've found a few foot pounds of torque required to just overcome the nyloc's friction. Installing into nutplates usually requires even more prevailing torque than nylocs do. >From what I've read, this sort of prevailing torque should really be added to the final installed torque. And that makes sense - a nyloc or nutplate's internal friction does nothing to add stress to a bolt under load - it only adds stress while the nut is actually being torqued (and of course, helps prevent the nut from loosening later on its own) I know this is pretty much nit-picking - thousands of RVs have been built and are flying fine, and I'd be willing to wager than 90% or more of the builders never worry about this and just used the torque values that Van's quoted. The torque values specify a range anyway. But I'm doing this as more an exercise of understanding the engineering involved. Am I correct in this assumption, and that theoretically the prevailing torque of nylocs and/or nutplates should be added to the torque values Van's provides? That would add a few extra foot pounds to the torque values aimed for, which might at least have a small significance for smaller bolts like the AN3s which aren't torqued very high in the first place. Dan -- Syzygy Research & Technology Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: new BP reward program
Date: Feb 03, 2012
Let=99s see I get 1-2% on my American Express towards gas, BP wont give you squat unless you buy Amoco or BP (although Arco, a BP company wont except the card) but 3% is well... 3%. I have not seen the fine print but it does say =9C5% on fuel purchases=9D so I am interested in the technicality that makes it less than 3%.. were did you get the 3% from? I have a application I was about to send off so this is great timing. From: DLM Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 3:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: new BP reward program They have secured first place in the =9CBaffle them with BS=9D contest. The old program was straight forward percentages of purchase; now they obfuscate the situation with cents per gallon. Plug in some numbers and see that they are limiting the fuel purchase rebate to fewer than 3% at today=99s prices whereas their old rate was 5%. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: new BP reward program
Date: Feb 03, 2012
I have been getting 5% using a BP Visa card at BP FBOs; now they are changing to limit rebate to 15 cents per gallon; I have been getting 25 cents plus on $5 100LL for at least a year. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program Let's see I get 1-2% on my American Express towards gas, BP wont give you squat unless you buy Amoco or BP (although Arco, a BP company wont except the card) but 3% is well... 3%. I have not seen the fine print but it does say "5% on fuel purchases" so I am interested in the technicality that makes it less than 3%.. were did you get the 3% from? I have a application I was about to send off so this is great timing. From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 3:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: new BP reward program They have secured first place in the "Baffle them with BS" contest. The old program was straight forward percentages of purchase; now they obfuscate the situation with cents per gallon. Plug in some numbers and see that they are limiting the fuel purchase rebate to fewer than 3% at today's prices whereas their old rate was 5%. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: new BP reward program
Date: Feb 03, 2012
They still advertise: With your BP Visa Card, you can: a.. Earn 5% rebates on all BP location purchases b.. Earn 2% rebates on all eligible travel and dining purchases c.. Earn 1% rebates on all other eligible purchases Nice marketing and poor follow-through! From: DLM Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: new BP reward program I have been getting 5% using a BP Visa card at BP FBOs; now they are changing to limit rebate to 15 cents per gallon; I have been getting 25 cents plus on $5 100LL for at least a year. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program Let=99s see I get 1-2% on my American Express towards gas, BP wont give you squat unless you buy Amoco or BP (although Arco, a BP company wont except the card) but 3% is well... 3%. I have not seen the fine print but it does say =9C5% on fuel purchases=9D so I am interested in the technicality that makes it less than 3%.. were did you get the 3% from? I have a application I was about to send off so this is great timing. From: DLM Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 3:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: new BP reward program They have secured first place in the =9CBaffle them with BS=9D contest. The old program was straight forward percentages of purchase; now they obfuscate the situation with cents per gallon. Plug in some numbers and see that they are limiting the fuel purchase rebate to fewer than 3% at today=99s prices whereas their old rate was 5%. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www .matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht tp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation?
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 03, 2012
Lew, I would like to make the mod to my front wheel and use your tools. I think I understand what you are doing, but need to see a dwg. Also, you mentioned you have a source the bolts and washers. Thanks Bill -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365587#365587 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 03, 2012
There is a great paint shop in Quincy Il at UIN. I have seen his work and it is great. Price for RV-8 was 8K. -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365588#365588 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Ferguson" <jc_ferguson(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: new BP reward program
Date: Feb 04, 2012
You know you guys should think yourselves very lucky, there you are moaning about getting 3 or 5% discount on fuel @ $5 a gallon when the rest of the world has to pay nearly 3 times your costs. Fuel in the UK is around =C2=A32.1 per litre or =C2=A37.938 per US Gallon($12.56) we get no discounts what so ever, we have landing fees that can range between $15 an $45 (that=99s for every landing you do) and you get charged typically $24 for an instrument approach. One local airport to me charges you a landing fee if you do a =9D touch and go=9D of $36 so just count yourself very lucky with what you have and best of luck with your imminent user fees. Wishing we had you prices and facilities!! John From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: 04 February 2012 02:28 Subject: Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program They still advertise: With your BP Visa Card, you can: * Earn 5% rebates on all BP location purchases * Earn 2% rebates on all eligible travel and dining purchases * Earn 1% rebates on all other eligible purchases Nice marketing and poor follow-through! From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: new BP reward program I have been getting 5% using a BP Visa card at BP FBOs; now they are changing to limit rebate to 15 cents per gallon; I have been getting 25 cents plus on $5 100LL for at least a year. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program Let=99s see I get 1-2% on my American Express towards gas, BP wont give you squat unless you buy Amoco or BP (although Arco, a BP company wont except the card) but 3% is well... 3%. I have not seen the fine print but it does say =9C5% on fuel purchases=9D so I am interested in the technicality that makes it less than 3%.. were did you get the 3% from? I have a application I was about to send off so this is great timing. From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 3:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: new BP reward program They have secured first place in the =9CBaffle them with BS=9D contest. The old program was straight forward percentages of purchase; now they obfuscate the situation with cents per gallon. Plug in some numbers and see that they are limiting the fuel purchase rebate to fewer than 3% at today=99s prices whereas their old rate was 5%. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation?
Date: Feb 04, 2012
Hey Bill, Send me your address and I'll forward it on to Russ in TX so he can send it to you before it comes back to me. "Rental" fee for the kit is $5 payable to me (mail me a check or through PayPal) and I can send you a couple of bolts for $2 + postage. You are on your own for spacers/washers since each pants are slightly different. DWG? (Google says it might have something to do with CADS?) Guys, I'm trying to pick up the acronyms, but since that's a new one on me, maybe someone else can help you out. I'll be glad to talk you through it. Later, - Lew -----Original Message----- From: bill.peyton Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 10:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation? Lew, I would like to make the mod to my front wheel and use your tools. I think I understand what you are doing, but need to see a dwg. Also, you mentioned you have a source the bolts and washers. Thanks Bill -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365587#365587 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
Date: Feb 04, 2012
Hey Bill, On this topic, I've been watching the price of painting with great interest to see how badly I'm underpricing my labor. I'm currently finishing up an RV-8A with yellow wings/tail feathers, silver metallic fuse, flat black anti-glare between windshield and cowl, red cowl spinner wheel pants -- and I'm doing ALL the fiberglass fitting fabrication prep (cowl, canopy,wheel pants,air box, etc.), as well as aluminum prep priming. Are these prices being posted covering all that, or just supplying/applying the paint? Later, - Lew -----Original Message----- From: bill.peyton Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 10:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Midwest Paint Shops There is a great paint shop in Quincy Il at UIN. I have seen his work and it is great. Price for RV-8 was 8K. -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365588#365588 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: new BP reward program
Date: Feb 04, 2012
Thanks for the reminder. Sometimes I forget that I live in the best place in the world.that is just my opinion, I may be bias. As I sit here this morning, looking out the window at a beautiful day, feeling sorry for myself because as of 1 Feb my medical has expired and I cannot fly without a baby sitter on board..I am reminded of how great it really is to live here in Utah and the USA. It is still hard for me to believe that I built an airplane in my garage and that me and the family can hop in it and go whenever we want. My daughter is going to a dance competition in a couple of weeks, and she was whining that she had to go in the car.the whole 4 hours instead of the plane in 1. How we take for granted what we do have. I am hoping the FAA will issue my medical here soon and I will have all my freedom back. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ferguson Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2012 3:32 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: new BP reward program You know you guys should think yourselves very lucky, there you are moaning about getting 3 or 5% discount on fuel @ $5 a gallon when the rest of the world has to pay nearly 3 times your costs. Fuel in the UK is around =C2=A32.1 per litre or =C2=A37.938 per US Gallon($12.56) we get no discounts what so ever, we have landing fees that can range between $15 an $45 (that=99s for every landing you do) and you get charged typically $24 for an instrument approach. One local airport to me charges you a landing fee if you do a =9D touch and go=9D of $36 so just count yourself very lucky with what you have and best of luck with your imminent user fees. Wishing we had you prices and facilities!! John From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: 04 February 2012 02:28 Subject: Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program They still advertise: With your BP Visa Card, you can: * Earn 5% rebates on all BP location purchases * Earn 2% rebates on all eligible travel and dining purchases * Earn 1% rebates on all other eligible purchases Nice marketing and poor follow-through! From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: new BP reward program I have been getting 5% using a BP Visa card at BP FBOs; now they are changing to limit rebate to 15 cents per gallon; I have been getting 25 cents plus on $5 100LL for at least a year. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program Let=99s see I get 1-2% on my American Express towards gas, BP wont give you squat unless you buy Amoco or BP (although Arco, a BP company wont except the card) but 3% is well... 3%. I have not seen the fine print but it does say =9C5% on fuel purchases=9D so I am interested in the technicality that makes it less than 3%.. were did you get the 3% from? I have a application I was about to send off so this is great timing. From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 3:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: new BP reward program They have secured first place in the =9CBaffle them with BS=9D contest. The old program was straight forward percentages of purchase; now they obfuscate the situation with cents per gallon. Plug in some numbers and see that they are limiting the fuel purchase rebate to fewer than 3% at today=99s prices whereas their old rate was 5%. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation?
Date: Feb 04, 2012
DWG = drawing..... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lewgall(at)charter.net Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2012 7:34 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation? Hey Bill, Send me your address and I'll forward it on to Russ in TX so he can send it to you before it comes back to me. "Rental" fee for the kit is $5 payable to me (mail me a check or through PayPal) and I can send you a couple of bolts for $2 + postage. You are on your own for spacers/washers since each pants are slightly different. DWG? (Google says it might have something to do with CADS?) Guys, I'm trying to pick up the acronyms, but since that's a new one on me, maybe someone else can help you out. I'll be glad to talk you through it. Later, - Lew -----Original Message----- From: bill.peyton Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 10:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation? Lew, I would like to make the mod to my front wheel and use your tools. I think I understand what you are doing, but need to see a dwg. Also, you mentioned you have a source the bolts and washers. Thanks Bill -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365587#365587 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: new BP reward program
Date: Feb 04, 2012
At first I thought you were writing from the PRC but I see it is Europe. The reason the fuel prices there are so high is that the government wants them that way (very high taxes). Here, our government wants to make ours higher by both taxation and prevention of any exploration or drilling. We loan money that we print to other countries so that they can drill for their resources. We, the USA, haven=92t built a major petro project for at least 50 years; the latest attempt was the cancellation of Canadian USA pipeline. If we don=92t change our politicians, we will find ourselves like the nations of Europe. After all Bin Laden=92s secret plan was to kill us with bureaucracy and now we have Homeland Security, TSA, etc. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ferguson Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2012 3:32 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: new BP reward program You know you guys should think yourselves very lucky, there you are moaning about getting 3 or 5% discount on fuel @ $5 a gallon when the rest of the world has to pay nearly 3 times your costs. Fuel in the UK is around =A32.1 per litre or =A37.938 per US Gallon($12.56) we get no discounts what so ever, we have landing fees that can range between $15 an $45 (that=92s for every landing you do) and you get charged typically $24 for an instrument approach. One local airport to me charges you a landing fee if you do a =94 touch and go=94 of $36 so just count yourself very lucky with what you have and best of luck with your imminent user fees. Wishing we had you prices and facilities!! John From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: 04 February 2012 02:28 Subject: Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program They still advertise: With your BP Visa Card, you can: * Earn 5% rebates on all BP location purchases * Earn 2% rebates on all eligible travel and dining purchases * Earn 1% rebates on all other eligible purchases Nice marketing and poor follow-through! From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: new BP reward program I have been getting 5% using a BP Visa card at BP FBOs; now they are changing to limit rebate to 15 cents per gallon; I have been getting 25 cents plus on $5 100LL for at least a year. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 5:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program Let=92s see I get 1-2% on my American Express towards gas, BP wont give you squat unless you buy Amoco or BP (although Arco, a BP company wont except the card) but 3% is well... 3%. I have not seen the fine print but it does say =935% on fuel purchases=94 so I am interested in the technicality that makes it less than 3%.. were did you get the 3% from? I have a application I was about to send off so this is great timing. From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 3:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: new BP reward program They have secured first place in the =93Baffle them with BS=94 contest. The old program was straight forward percentages of purchase; now they obfuscate the situation with cents per gallon. Plug in some numbers and see that they are limiting the fuel purchase rebate to fewer than 3% at today=92s prices whereas their old rate was 5%. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: new BP reward program
Achem......I didn't know we were going political here. Prudhoe Bay was only 40 years ago and was kinda major. Bakken oil fields are right now and will be bigger than Prudhoe. Exploration has almost zero impact on pricing. World demand, speculation etc have far more effect, with only a countries tax structure impacting the world wide commodity price. Oil is sold based on its quality, minus transportation and any other costs getting it to the end buyer. At least with the RV-10 you can control consumption for most phases after takeoff with wide flexibility. On 2/4/2012 9:54 AM, DLM wrote: > > At first I thought you were writing from the PRC but I see it is > Europe. The reason the fuel prices there are so high is that the > government wants them that way (very high taxes). Here, our government > wants to make ours higher by both taxation and prevention of any > exploration or drilling. We loan money that we print to other > countries so that they can drill for their resources. We, the USA, > havent built a major petro project for at least 50 years; the latest > attempt was the cancellation of Canadian USA pipeline. If we dont > change our politicians, we will find ourselves like the nations of > Europe. After all Bin Ladens secret plan was to kill us with > bureaucracy and now we have Homeland Security, TSA, etc. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Ferguson > *Sent:* Saturday, February 04, 2012 3:32 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: new BP reward program > > You know you guys should think yourselves very lucky, there you are > moaning about getting 3 or 5% discount on fuel @ $5 a gallon when the > rest of the world has to pay nearly 3 times your costs. > > Fuel in the UK is around 2.1 per litre or 7.938 per US > Gallon($12.56) we get no discounts what so ever, we have landing fees > that can range between $15 an $45 (thats for every landing you do) > and you get charged typically $24 for an instrument approach. > > One local airport to me charges you a landing fee if you do a touch > and go of $36 so just count yourself very lucky with what you have > and best of luck with your imminent user fees. > > Wishing we had you prices and facilities!! > > John > > *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Pascal > *Sent:* 04 February 2012 02:28 > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program > > They still advertise: > > **With your BP Visa Card, you can: ** > > * Earn**5%****rebates on all BP location purchases > * Earn**2%****rebates on all eligible travel and dining purchases > * Earn**1%****rebates on all other eligible purchases > > Nice marketing and poor follow-through! > > *From:*DLM > > *Sent:*Friday, February 03, 2012 5:27 PM > > *To:*rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > *Subject:*RE: RV10-List: new BP reward program > > I have been getting 5% using a BP Visa card at BP FBOs; now they are > changing to limit rebate to 15 cents per gallon; I have been getting > 25 cents plus on $5 100LL for at least a year. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Pascal > *Sent:* Friday, February 03, 2012 5:58 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: new BP reward program > > Lets see I get 1-2% on my American Express towards gas, BP wont give > you squat unless you buy Amoco or BP (although Arco, a BP company wont > except the card) but 3% is well... 3%. I have not seen the fine print > but it does say 5% on fuel purchases so I am interested in the > technicality that makes it less than 3%.. were did you get the 3% from? > > I have a application I was about to send off so this is great timing. > > *From:*DLM > > *Sent:*Friday, February 03, 2012 3:33 PM > > *To:*rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > *Subject:*RV10-List: new BP reward program > > They have secured first place in the Baffle them with BS contest. > The old program was straight forward percentages of purchase; now they > obfuscate the situation with cents per gallon. Plug in some numbers > and see that they are limiting the fuel purchase rebate to fewer than > 3% at todays prices whereas their old rate was 5%. > > ** > ** > *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com* > *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* > ** > ** > * * > * * > * * > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > * * > *http://forums.matronics.com* > * * > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > ** > * * > * * > *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com* > *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* > * * > * * > * * > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > * * > *http://forums.matronics.com* > * * > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > * * > * * > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2012
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: acronyms
On 2/4/2012 10:10 AM, Rene wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" > > DWG = drawing..... Which originated with Autocad, I believe, but most CAD (Computer Aided Design) programs now read and export .DWG files. Yeah, I know .... TMI. (too much information) Sorry, couldn't resist. ;-) . (wink) .... He he!!! Linn > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > lewgall(at)charter.net > Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2012 7:34 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in > circulation? > > --> RV10-List message posted by: > > Hey Bill, > > Send me your address and I'll forward it on to Russ in TX so he can send it > to you before it comes back to me. "Rental" fee for the kit is $5 payable > to me (mail me a check or through PayPal) and I can send you a couple of > bolts for $2 + postage. You are on your own for spacers/washers since each > pants are slightly different. > > DWG? (Google says it might have something to do with CADS?) Guys, I'm > trying to pick up the acronyms, but since that's a new one on me, maybe > someone else can help you out. I'll be glad to talk you through it. > > Later, - Lew > > -----Original Message----- > From: bill.peyton > Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 10:42 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Helicoil kit for nose wheel - still in circulation? > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "bill.peyton" > > Lew, > I would like to make the mod to my front wheel and use your tools. I think > I understand what you are doing, but need to see a dwg. Also, you mentioned > you have a source the bolts and washers. > Thanks > Bill > > -------- > Bill Peyton > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365587#365587 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N541RV.....the grin continues
From: "mvultaggio" <mvultaggio(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Feb 04, 2012
I had the pleasure of meeting Bob today and seeing his beautiful airplane first hand. Luckily, my home airport is within his fly off area. Fantastic aircraft and super knowledgeable builder. Many Thanks... Mark Another Lurker on the list. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365642#365642 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: N541RV.....the grin continues
Date: Feb 05, 2012
Phone camera photos boys! We want to see builders next to their creations. And Lurkers too. Robin Sent from my iPad2. On Feb 4, 2012, at 6:16 PM, "mvultaggio" wrote: > > I had the pleasure of meeting Bob today and seeing his beautiful airplane first hand. Luckily, my home airport is within his fly off area. Fantastic aircraft and super knowledgeable builder. Many Thanks... > > Mark > Another Lurker on the list. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365642#365642 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 04, 2012
Lew, I think that the current rate for unpainted and more importantly, un-prepared RVs seems to be $7K at the low end and $12K at the high end. I am planning on painting my self with the help of my buddy who owns a body shop and paint booth a few miles from my home. I expect the paint to cost at least $2500 to $3500. Bill -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365647#365647 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
Date: Feb 05, 2012
Total material cost for my 10 was $3700 (three color PPG base/clear coat high end metallic). As I'm an amateur painter, about $400 of that was "redo" cash. The $3700 included all paint accessories such as fine line tape, buffing compounds and masking. Painting was done in a homemade paint booth in the hangar (2x4 frame and plastic with a couple of large exhaust fans). I'd guess you could do a traditional single stage paint job with a couple of stripes for well under $2500, including primer. Having someone to help who knows how to paint would have been wonderful. I painted my 8A myself and figured the 10 would be about the same. I was wrong. The 10 is a lot harder. Looking back, if I could find someone to do a nice job for under $12K I'd jump at it. I'd guess it would be hard finding someone other than a 10 or Lancair builder who really knows how to do the fiberglass prep work on a 10. Carl April first flight????? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2012 10:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Midwest Paint Shops Lew, I think that the current rate for unpainted and more importantly, un-prepared RVs seems to be $7K at the low end and $12K at the high end. I am planning on painting my self with the help of my buddy who owns a body shop and paint booth a few miles from my home. I expect the paint to cost at least $2500 to $3500. Bill -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365647#365647 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
Date: Feb 05, 2012
Hey Guys, Let me try a direct question: How much would you expect to pay someone to take the raw fiberglass (canopy, cowl, doors, pants, fairings, wingtips), fit it (and I mean mount the canopy, install windows with Weldon/glass in edges, assemble/fit the doors,fit the cowl with hinge pins/sky bolts, etc., align the pants to air flow, etc.) seal all the pinholes, prime it; prime all the aluminum exterior surfaces (wings, control surfaces, vert/horiz stab, fuse), final paint tri color(either Imron, acrylic enamel, or urethane -- no clear coat)? I've done this now for an RV-10 and an RV-8A for much less than $7K (all materials/paint included). It takes about 230 hrs. So far I've done it for friends and love the challenge of it, but now I'm getting referrals and have to re-think this. Any educated guesses would be appreciated. I have an idea what my time is worth, but was curious what the professionals would charge, or what folks would be willing to pay. Later, - Lew ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
From: Phil Barnette <barnettephillip(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2012
Let me get in line before the price increase!! Seriously, can't really imagine what that should commercially price out as!!! Phil B Sent from my iPhone On Feb 5, 2012, at 10:55 AM, wrote: > > Hey Guys, > > Let me try a direct question: How much would you expect to pay someone to take the raw fiberglass (canopy, cowl, doors, pants, fairings, wingtips), fit it (and I mean mount the canopy, install windows with Weldon/glass in edges, assemble/fit the doors,fit the cowl with hinge pins/sky bolts, etc., align the pants to air flow, etc.) seal all the pinholes, prime it; prime all the aluminum exterior surfaces (wings, control surfaces, vert/horiz stab, fuse), final paint tri color(either Imron, acrylic enamel, or urethane -- no clear coat)? > > I've done this now for an RV-10 and an RV-8A for much less than $7K (all materials/paint included). > > It takes about 230 hrs. So far I've done it for friends and love the challenge of it, but now I'm getting referrals and have to re-think this. > > Any educated guesses would be appreciated. I have an idea what my time is worth, but was curious what the professionals would charge, or what folks would be willing to pay. > > Later, - Lew > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
Date: Feb 05, 2012
If you can do all this in 230 hours, you are truly a magician. I know I took at least twice that long. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lewgall(at)charter.net Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 12:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Midwest Paint Shops Hey Guys, Let me try a direct question: How much would you expect to pay someone to take the raw fiberglass (canopy, cowl, doors, pants, fairings, wingtips), fit it (and I mean mount the canopy, install windows with Weldon/glass in edges, assemble/fit the doors,fit the cowl with hinge pins/sky bolts, etc., align the pants to air flow, etc.) seal all the pinholes, prime it; prime all the aluminum exterior surfaces (wings, control surfaces, vert/horiz stab, fuse), final paint tri color(either Imron, acrylic enamel, or urethane -- no clear coat)? I've done this now for an RV-10 and an RV-8A for much less than $7K (all materials/paint included). It takes about 230 hrs. So far I've done it for friends and love the challenge of it, but now I'm getting referrals and have to re-think this. Any educated guesses would be appreciated. I have an idea what my time is worth, but was curious what the professionals would charge, or what folks would be willing to pay. Later, - Lew ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
Date: Feb 05, 2012
I imagine most professional shops would be charging $75 to $85 per hour at a minimum. You could be pushing $20K at that rate. That would not be out of line for doing all that work, IMHO. David Maib 40559 Flying On Feb 5, 2012, at 12:55 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote: > > Hey Guys, > > Let me try a direct question: How much would you expect to pay > someone to take the raw fiberglass (canopy, cowl, doors, pants, > fairings, wingtips), fit it (and I mean mount the canopy, install > windows with Weldon/glass in edges, assemble/fit the doors,fit the > cowl with hinge pins/sky bolts, etc., align the pants to air flow, > etc.) seal all the pinholes, prime it; prime all the aluminum > exterior surfaces (wings, control surfaces, vert/horiz stab, fuse), > final paint tri color(either Imron, acrylic enamel, or urethane -- > no clear coat)? > > I've done this now for an RV-10 and an RV-8A for much less than > $7K (all materials/paint included). > > It takes about 230 hrs. So far I've done it for friends and love > the challenge of it, but now I'm getting referrals and have to re- > think this. > > Any educated guesses would be appreciated. I have an idea what my > time is worth, but was curious what the professionals would charge, > or what folks would be willing to pay. > > Later, - Lew > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2012
Subject: Plan
From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com>
Someone emailed me this morning requesting access to the plans, but I can not find the email now. Please send the request again and I will get you added. Thanks, Shannon 41153 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2012
Subject: RV-10 Empenage kit for sale
From: "Stephen Blank,DDS" <sblankdds(at)gmail.com>
I have an 80% built tailcone for sale. I reduced my asking price to $2,500 or make me an offer. This is a great jump start. The horizontal stabilizer and elevators are complete, the vertical fin and rudder are finished. I am located in Florida and would prefer someone that is able to pick up the project. A few images are available at the link below. Contact info below. - Steve http://www.psldentist.com/rv10.html Stephen Blank,DDS 766 SE River Lane Port St. Lucie, FL 34983 772-475-5556 sent from my Evo-Shift ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Looking for fuselage kit inventory
From: "stuewe" <stuewe(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 06, 2012
Good morning, I have been looking for an inventory list of the fuselage kit. I am just about to order this kit and thanks to this list, I'm pretty sure there are parts in it that I will want to delete and order elsewhere. I did a quick search and was unable to locate it. If anyone can post a reply with it or point me to it I'd appreciate it. Thanks Stuewe RV-10 (kit) 40933 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365732#365732 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2012
Subject: Re: Looking for fuselage kit inventory
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Caution....Over time Van's has changed what is in the fuselage kit vs the finish kit, etc. So you want a list that is no more than a year or so old. I think you can call Van's and have them email or fax it to you. That is best way to get current list. On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 9:47 AM, stuewe wrote: > > Good morning, > > I have been looking for an inventory list of the fuselage kit. I am just about to order this kit and thanks to this list, I'm pretty sure there are parts in it that I will want to delete and order elsewhere. I did a quick search and was unable to locate it. If anyone can post a reply with it or point me to it I'd appreciate it. > > Thanks > > Stuewe > RV-10 (kit) 40933 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365732#365732 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for fuselage kit inventory
Date: Feb 06, 2012
Stuewe, when you find it could you possibly forward a copy of it to me--if it's not too much hassle. I'm a couple months from ordering. I'd also be interested in knowing what you add/delete from the kit and if it's not too personal, why you did add or delete. I'll keep an eye on these posts and try to follow along and ask questions along the way. By the way, I think Vans just implemented their 2012 price increase on 2/1. Too bad you couldn't have ordered a week ago!!! (However, I have no idea how much the increase was--probably fairly minimal anyway.) Anyhow, good luck Bill -------------------------------------------------- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2012 11:04 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Looking for fuselage kit inventory > > Caution....Over time Van's has changed what is in the fuselage kit vs > the finish kit, etc. So you want a list that is no more than a year or > so old. > I think you can call Van's and have them email or fax it to you. That > is best way to get current list. > > On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 9:47 AM, stuewe wrote: >> >> Good morning, >> >> I have been looking for an inventory list of the fuselage kit. I am just >> about to order this kit and thanks to this list, I'm pretty sure there >> are parts in it that I will want to delete and order elsewhere. I did a >> quick search and was unable to locate it. If anyone can post a reply with >> it or point me to it I'd appreciate it. >> >> Thanks >> >> Stuewe >> RV-10 (kit) 40933 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365732#365732 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2012
Subject: Re: Looking for fuselage kit inventory
From: William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
For the fuselage kit it was about 4.6%, higher than normal. I wish I had order but didn't want to store for four months. Bill Greenley On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 12:41 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: > > Stuewe, when you find it could you possibly forward a copy of it to me--if > it's not too much hassle. I'm a couple months from ordering. I'd also be > interested in knowing what you add/delete from the kit and if it's not too > personal, why you did add or delete. I'll keep an eye on these posts and > try to follow along and ask questions along the way. > > By the way, I think Vans just implemented their 2012 price increase on 2/1. > Too bad you couldn't have ordered a week ago!!! (However, I have no idea > how much the increase was--probably fairly minimal anyway.) > > Anyhow, good luck > Bill > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> > Sent: Monday, February 06, 2012 11:04 AM > To: > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Looking for fuselage kit inventory > > >> >> Caution....Over time Van's has changed what is in the fuselage kit vs >> the finish kit, etc. So you want a list that is no more than a year or >> so old. >> I think you can call Van's and have them email or fax it to you. That >> is best way to get current list. >> >> On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 9:47 AM, stuewe wrote: >>> >>> >>> Good morning, >>> >>> I have been looking for an inventory list of the fuselage kit. I am just >>> about to order this kit and thanks to this list, I'm pretty sure there are >>> parts in it that I will want to delete and order elsewhere. I did a quick >>> search and was unable to locate it. If anyone can post a reply with it or >>> point me to it I'd appreciate it. >>> >>> Thanks >>> >>> Stuewe >>> RV-10 (kit) 40933 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365732#365732 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2012
Subject: Dimpled When I Shouldn't Have
From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com>
My first thought was to not give this a second thought and drive on, but thought I should see what the collective wisdom has to say... I finally finished running all (I hope) of my wires and conduits to the back and began the process of permanently installing the baggage and rear seat floors. While installing the nut plates in the rear seat floors, I noticed that Van's had specified k1000-8. Well these didn't work since the #19 holes were dimpled. I grabbed the k1100-8s and merrily went on my way. It wasn't until today that I noticed I was not supposed to dimple the #19 holes [?]. Herein lies the issue. I have completed riveting the rear baggage floor ad seat back hinges. It just looks like these are for the access cover and I can dimple these as well. Do you think I need to fix this? Thanks, Shannon 41153 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Dimpled When I Shouldn't Have
Your proposed substitution should work fine. No need to fix anything. Kelly On 2/6/2012 12:53 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote: > My first thought was to not give this a second thought and drive on, > but thought I should see what the collective wisdom has to say... > > I finally finished running all (I hope) of my wires and conduits to > the back and began the process of permanently installing the baggage > and rear seat floors. While installing the nut plates in the rear > seat floors, I noticed that Van's had specified k1000-8. Well these > didn't work since the #19 holes were dimpled. I grabbed the k1100-8s > and merrily went on my way. It wasn't until today that I noticed I > was not supposed to dimple the #19 holes . > > Herein lies the issue. I have completed riveting the rear baggage > floor ad seat back hinges. It just looks like these are for the > access cover and I can dimple these as well. Do you think I need to > fix this? > > Thanks, > Shannon > 41153 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dimpled When I Shouldn't Have
From: Mike Schulz <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 06, 2012
I did the same thing and it worked just fine and looked good to. Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2012, at 1:53 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote: > My first thought was to not give this a second thought and drive on, but thought I should see what the collective wisdom has to say... > > I finally finished running all (I hope) of my wires and conduits to the back and began the process of permanently installing the baggage and rear seat floors. While installing the nut plates in the rear seat floors, I noticed that Van's had specified k1000-8. Well these didn't work since the #19 holes were dimpled. I grabbed the k1100-8s and merrily went on my way. It wasn't until today that I noticed I was not supposed to dimple the #19 holes <320.png>. > > Herein lies the issue. I have completed riveting the rear baggage floor ad seat back hinges. It just looks like these are for the access cover and I can dimple these as well. Do you think I need to fix this? > > Thanks, > Shannon > 41153 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch>
Subject: Re: Looking for fuselage kit inventory
Date: Feb 06, 2012
Hi Stuewe, 2 documents are attached. First is the Van's text file contents for the QB fuselage and wings. Second is the pdf of my final packing list from early 2011. If you look on the last 2 pages of this document you will see things marked as "-1" in the "Qty to Pick" column - these are the items which I deleted after reading all the advice on the forum. The last page also shows stuff I ordered additionally from Van's along with the kit (Andair fuel valve, HID lights, etc). In summary: Change nose wheel and axle for Matco parts I skipped tyres and tubes at this point and will order them with the windows and wingtip lenses from Desser Bonaco brake lines replace the plastic lines and associated hardware. Bonaco fuel and brake lines could replace the aluminum tubing except for the tank breathers (I did not delete the alloy tubing). Andair fuel valve and pump. Gear leg fairings from S.Africa Hope this helps! Gordon Anderson 41015 Packing List Order : 0-22409 Order Date:10.28.10 Ship Date :10.28.10 Page Num : 1 Customer: Ship To: NB209 SAMPLE OVER-COUNTER SALES -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Ship Via:WILL CALL ORDER PULLED BY: CHECKED BY: -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Qty Picked Qty to Pick Item Number Description -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ __________ 1.00 RV-10Q KIT QB FUSE & WING KIT=== ________ 1.00 10Q WING KIT QB WING ONLY========= ________ 1.00 W-1005-L BOT.OUTBRD.WING SKIN ________ 1.00 W-1005-R BOT.OUTBRD.WING SKIN ________ 1.00 W-1015-L WING TIP ________ 1.00 W-1015-R WING TIP ________ 1.00 W-1016-L WING TIP RIB ________ 1.00 W-1016-R WING TIP RIB ________ 1.00 W-1021-L FLAP GAP FAIRING ________ 1.00 W-1021-R FLAP GAP FAIRING ________ 1.00 W-1024-L AILERON GAP FAIRING ________ 1.00 W-1024-R AILERON GAP FAIRING ________ 4.00 W-822PP WING ACCESS PLATE ________ 1.00 10A PLANS WING PLANS & MANUAL ________ 2.00 AT6-049X1.25X8' AL TUBE 1 1/4" ________ 1.00 ST4130-035X1/2X48-PC PUSHROD TUBE ________ 2.00 J-CHANNELX8' ALUM STIFFENER ANGLE ________ 1.00 WD-421-L-PC AIL.BELCRANK 7/8/9/10 ________ 1.00 WD-421-R-PC AIL.BELCRANK 7/8/9/10 ________ 4.00 WD-1014-PC AILERON TORQUE TUBE ________ 1.00 ST4130-035X7/8X22 WD-1014C MAKES 2 ________ 1.00 VA-193 W/TIP LENS RV-10 ________ 1.00 VA-195C ACCESS HATCH DOUBLER ________ 1.00 VA-195D ACCESS HATCH COVER ________ 1.00 W-730 BELLCRANK JIG ________ 1.00 WIRE #18X20' M22759/16-18 ________ 2.00 VB-11 TEMPLATE ON BOX LID ________ 2.00 AS3-063X5/8X13 1/2 ALUM SHEET ________ 1.00 AA6-063X3/4X3/4X18 AL ANGL C-612/C-712 ________ 1.00 AT0-032X1/4X12' SOFT ALUM TUBE COIL ________ 1.00 W-1021B FLAP GAP STIFFENER ________ 1.00 Q 10A AIL-L AILERON ASSY. ________ 1.00 Q 10A AIL-R AILERON ASSY. Packing List Order : 0-22409 Order Date:10.28.10 Ship Date :10.28.10 Page Num : 2 Customer: Ship To: NB209 SAMPLE OVER-COUNTER SALES -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Ship Via:WILL CALL ORDER PULLED BY: CHECKED BY: -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Qty Picked Qty to Pick Item Number Description -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ ________ 1.00 Q 10A FLAP-L FLAP ASSY. ________ 1.00 Q 10A FLAP-R FLAP ASSY. ________ 1.00 Q 10A WING-L WING ASSEMBLY ________ 1.00 Q 10A WING-R WING ASSEMBLY ________ 1.00 Q 10A WING HARDWARE SUB-KIT-------------- ________ 1.00 BAG 1200 WING TIP ATTACH -10 ________ 1.00 BAG 1201 NAS1306-58/NAS1309-58 ________ 1.00 BAG 1215 AILERON ATTACH BKTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1216-1 STALL WARN HARDWARE ________ 1.00 BAG 1218-1 BELLCRANK/FUEL SCREEN ________ 1.00 BAG 1225 AN426AD3-3.5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1226 AN426AD3-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1227 AN426AD3-4.5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1230 AN426AD4-8 ________ 1.00 BAG 1231 AN470AD4-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1232 AN470AD4-5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1233 AN470AD4-6 ________ 1.00 BAG 1234 AN470AD4-11 ________ 1.00 BAG 1236 RIVET CS4-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1237 RIVET MSP-42 ________ 1.00 BAG 1244 PLATENUTS K1100-06 ________ 1.00 BAG 1245 K1100-08 PLATENUTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1246 SCREWS AN507-6R6 ________ 1.00 BAG 1247 AN509-8R8 SCREWS ________ 1.00 BAG 1249 MISC. AN3 BOLTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1250 MISC. AN4 BOLTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1251 AN365-1032/-428 NUTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1252 AN365-624/-918A NUTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1253 JAM NUTS/VA-195A&B ________ 1.00 BAG 1255 BEARINGS/ROD ENDS ________ 1.00 BAG 1256 AN960-10/-10L WASHERS ________ 1.00 BAG 1257 AN960-416/-416L WASHS ________ 1.00 BAG 1258 12 Packing List Order : 0-22409 Order Date:10.28.10 Ship Date :10.28.10 Page Num : 3 Customer: Ship To: NB209 SAMPLE OVER-COUNTER SALES -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Ship Via:WILL CALL ORDER PULLED BY: CHECKED BY: -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Qty Picked Qty to Pick Item Number Description -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ ________ 1.00 BAG 1259 MS24694-S67/C14/S10 ________ 1.00 BAG 1260 AN FLUID FITTINGS ________ 1.00 BAG 967 TIP LENS HARDWARE ALL ________ 1.00 BAG 527 STALL WARN MISC PARTS ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 1.00 RV-10Q FUSELAGE QB FUSELAGE ONLY===== ________ 1.00 10AQ FUSE SUB-KIT 1 MISC.PRTS.C.BOARD BOX ________ 1.00 F-10100 BAGGAGE DOOR SHIM ________ 1.00 F-10101 BAGGAGE DOOR SHIM ________ 1.00 F-1016E-L FLAP TORQ.TUBE COVER ________ 1.00 F-1016E-R FLAP TORQ.TUBE COVER ________ 1.00 F-1026 BAG.DOOR SEAL CHAN. ________ 1.00 F-1031 BAG.DOOR SEAL CHANNEL ________ 2.00 F-1039B RUDDER PEDAL BRCKT. ________ 2.00 F-1050B BOLT ACCESS PLATE ________ 1.00 F-1051A FWD.FUSE TUNNEL COVER ________ 1.00 F-1051C FRNT.SEAT TUNNL.COVER ________ 1.00 F-1051E REAR SEAT TUNNL.COVER ________ 1.00 F-1051F BAGGAGE TUNNEL COVER ________ 2.00 F-1052 RUDDER PEDAL SET ________ 1.00 F-1052B BUNDLE 4 PER BRAKE SIDE PLATE ________ 2.00 F-1052C BRAKE PDL.DBLER.PLATE ________ 2.00 F-1053 RUDDER CABLE ________ 1.00 F-1054 TANK ATTACH ANGLE ________ 2.00 F-1057-L MID SEAT RAIL SUPPORT ________ 2.00 F-1057-R MID SEAT RAIL SUPPORT ________ 1.00 F-1058 BAG.DOOR HINGE FRAME ________ 1.00 F-1059A BAG.DOOR FWD.FRAME ________ 1.00 F-1059B BAG.DOOR UPR.FRAME ________ 1.00 F-1059C BAG.DOOR LWR.FRAME ________ 1.00 F-1059E BAGGAGE DOOR SKIN ________ 1.00 F-1059F BAG.DOOR CLOSEOUT PNL ________ 2.00 F-1063A ELEVATOR IDLER ARM Packing List Order : 0-22409 Order Date:10.28.10 Ship Date :10.28.10 Page Num : 4 Customer: Ship To: NB209 SAMPLE OVER-COUNTER SALES -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Ship Via:WILL CALL ORDER PULLED BY: CHECKED BY: -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Qty Picked Qty to Pick Item Number Description -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ ________ 2.00 F-1064 PUSH ROD ________ 1.00 F-1065 PUSH ROD ________ 2.00 F-1067B SEAT FLOOR SPACER ________ 1.00 F-1080 BAGGAGE COVER,RIGHT ________ 1.00 F-1081 BAGGAGE COVER,LEFT ________ 2.00 F-1099D WING FAIRING STIFFNER ________ 1.00 F-1099EFG-L W.ROOT FAIR.SUPPORT ________ 1.00 F-1099EFG-R W.ROOT FAIR.SUPPORT ________ 2.00 F-637A SEAT BACK SKIN ________ 2.00 F-8105 BRAKE HOSE 20" 8/10 ________ 2.00 VA-256 FLAP PUSH ROD ________ 2.00 AT0-032X1/4X12' SOFT ALUM TUBE COIL ________ 1.00 AT0-035X3/8X12' SOFT ALUM TUBE COIL ________ 1.00 AT6-035X1 1/8X3' PUSH/PULL TUBE ________ 1.00 AT6-058X5/16X9 FLAP PUSH ROD 4/6/7/8 ________ 1.00 PT-062X1/4X15' HI PRES BRAKE HOSE ________ 1.00 RUBBER CHANNEL X 4' EMP FAIRING SEAL ________ 1.00 F-10105 CONTROL CABLE BRACKET ________ 1.00 F-6114 SB CABLE ASSY (2SEAT) ________ 2.00 F-10107 RIVET BACK STRIP ________ 1.00 AS3-063X1/2X5 BELLCRANK SPACERS ________ 1.00 AT6-058X3/8X4 ALUM TUBE (INCHES) ________ 1.00 VENT TG-1010 L&R RV-10 HEAT BOXES (2) ________ 1.00 F-1042G-L WIRE COVER ________ 1.00 F-1042G-R WIRE COVER ________ 2.00 F-1099A UPPR.WING ROOT FAIRNG ________ 2.00 F-1099B LWR.WING ROOT FAIRING ________ 1.00 F-1046B LONGERON BEND TMPLATE ________ 1.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 1.00 10AQ FUSE TUBE/ANGLE -------SUB-KIT------- ________ 1.00 AA6-063X3/4X3/4X6' ALUM ANGLE ________ 3.00 AA6-125X3/4X3/4X6' ALUM ANGLE ________ 1.00 AT6-035X1 1/2X83 PUSH ROD TUBE Packing List Order : 0-22409 Order Date:10.28.10 Ship Date :10.28.10 Page Num : 5 Customer: Ship To: NB209 SAMPLE OVER-COUNTER SALES -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Ship Via:WILL CALL ORDER PULLED BY: CHECKED BY: -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Qty Picked Qty to Pick Item Number Description -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ ________ 1.00 HINGE PIANO 1/8X9' ML ________ 1.00 AN257-P3X6' HINGE X 6' ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 1.00 F-1094B EMPENNAGE FAIRING ________ 1.00 CA SEAT RAIL-L -10 1 LEFT & 1 CENTR.RAIL ________ 1.00 CA SEAT RAIL-R -10 1 RGHT.& 1 CENTR.RAIL ________ 1.00 WD-1006-L-PC RUDDER PEDAL ________ 1.00 WD-1006-R-PC RUDDER PEDAL ________ 1.00 WD-1010-PC CONTROL COLUMN ________ 1.00 WD-1011-L-PC LEFT STICK BASE ________ 1.00 WD-1011-R-PC RIGHT STICK BASE ________ 2.00 WD-1012-PC CONTROL STICK ________ 1.00 WD-1013A-PC FLAP CRANK ________ 2.00 WD-1013B-PC FLAP HORN ________ 2.00 WD-1013C-PC TORQUE TUBE ________ 1.00 WD-1043-PC ROLL BAR BRACE STNLES ________ 1.00 Q 10AFUSE FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ________ 1.00 C-1001 CABIN COVER ________ 1.00 C-1004-L REAR LEFT WINDOW ________ 1.00 C-1004-R RIGHT REAR WINDOW ________ 1.00 C-1005 WINDSHIELD RV-10 ________ 1.00 10A PLANS FUSE PLANS & MANUAL ________ 1.00 F-1027 CLOSE OUT PANEL ________ 1.00 Q 10A FUSE HARDWARE ________ 1.00 BAG 1401 AN426AD3-3.5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1402 AN426AD3-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1403 AN426AD3-4.5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1404 AN426AD3-5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1406 AN426AD4-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1407 AN426AD4-5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1410 AN470AD4-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1411 AN470AD4-5 ________ 1.00 BAG 1412 AN470AD4-6 Packing List Order : 0-22409 Order Date:10.28.10 Ship Date :10.28.10 Page Num : 6 Customer: Ship To: NB209 SAMPLE OVER-COUNTER SALES -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Ship Via:WILL CALL ORDER PULLED BY: CHECKED BY: -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Qty Picked Qty to Pick Item Number Description -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ ________ 1.00 BAG 1413 AN470AD4-7 ________ 1.00 BAG 1415 POP RIVET CS4-4 ________ 1.00 BAG 1416-1 POP RIVETS LP4-3 ________ 1.00 BAG 1417 POP RIVET MK319-BS ________ 1.00 BAG 1418 POP RIVET MSP-42 ________ 1.00 BAG 1419-1 5710-18-31-75-60-30 ________ 1.00 BAG 1420 AN23-10 ________ 1.00 BAG 1421 AN3-3A,5,5A ________ 1.00 BAG 1422 AN3-6,7,10A,11A ________ 1.00 BAG 1423-1 AN3-12,12A,13A,14A,22 ________ 1.00 BAG 1425 AN310-3,-4,-6 ________ 1.00 BAG 1426 AN316-4,-6 ________ 1.00 BAG 1427-1 AN365-632,-832,-428 ________ 1.00 BAG 1429 AN365-1032 ________ 1.00 BAG 1430-1 AN4-5A,11A,12A...,27 ________ 1.00 BAG 1432 AN507-6R6,AN507C632R8 ________ 1.00 BAG 1434 AN509-8R8 ________ 1.00 BAG 1435-1 AN509-8R10 ________ 1.00 BAG 1437 AN509-8R12,10R11,R14 ________ 1.00 BAG 1438-1 AN515-6R8,-8R8 ________ 1.00 BAG 1439 AN525-10R7 ________ 1.00 BAG 1442 AN6-11 ________ 1.00 BAG 1443 BLUE FITTINGS -4D ________ 1.00 BAG 1444 BLUE FITTINGS -6D ________ 1.00 BAG 1446 AN931-6-16 ________ 1.00 BAG 1447 AN960-4L,416,416L ________ 1.00 BAG 1448-1 AN960-6,-8,-616,-716 ________ 1.00 BAG 1449 AN960-10 ________ 1.00 BAG 1450 AN960-10L ________ 1.00 BAG 1452 BEAR CM-4M,SPCR,4D,6D ________ 1.00 BAG 1454 BRASS FITTINGS ________ 1.00 BAG 1455 K1000-3,K1000-06 ________ 1.00 BAG 1456-1 K1000/K1100-08 Packing List Order : 0-22409 Order Date:10.28.10 Ship Date :10.28.10 Page Num : 7 Customer: Ship To: NB209 SAMPLE OVER-COUNTER SALES -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Ship Via:WILL CALL ORDER PULLED BY: CHECKED BY: -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ Qty Picked Qty to Pick Item Number Description -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ ________ 1.00 BAG 1459 BEAR 3414M,3614M,3616 ________ 1.00 BAG 1460 MS21042-3,21051-L08 ________ 1.00 BAG 1462 MS21919DG4,-DG6 ________ 1.00 BAG 1463 COTTER PINS -132,-208 ________ 1.00 BAG 1464 SB375-4,437-4,500-6 ________ 1.00 BAG 1466 VA-101,VA-111,VA-146 ________ 1.00 BAG 1467-2 MISC FUSE PLATES ________ 1.00 BAG 1468 MISC. FUSE PARTS ________ 1.00 BAG 1399 FUEL PUMP/FLO SCAN HW ________ 1.00 BAG 487-1 FUEL VALVE RV-10 ONLY ________ 1.00 BAG 488 3" CUTTING DISCS ________ 1.00 BAG 665 F-6115 RUDDER BLOCK ________ 1.00 BAG 670 RESERVOIR, BRAKE ________ 1.00 ES 85615-10 12 V ACTUATOR RV-10 ________ 2.00 BRAKE MAST.CYL.LEFT-1 MATCO 4/6/7/9/12 ________ 2.00 BRAKE MAST.CYL.RGHT-1 MATCO 4/6/7/9/12 ________ 1.00 BAG 1445 BLUE FITTINGS -6D ________ 1.00 BAG 1469 FUEL VALVE HWR ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________ 0.00 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Midwest Paint Shops
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Date: Feb 06, 2012
It seems to me that David's estimate is about right. I sure wish I had the skills to do it in that tiny amount of time (compared to what most of us spent to do all that). However... ahem... do you really want to become a professional builder? Probably those of us who did 51% + of the work learn more from that set of tasks than most others - there's a reason they call it "fiberglass hell", but is sure is educational. John Ackerman 40458 Flying On Feb 5, 2012, at 3:21 PM, David Maib wrote: > > I imagine most professional shops would be charging $75 to $85 per hour at a minimum. You could be pushing $20K at that rate. That would not be out of line for doing all that work, IMHO. > > David Maib > 40559 > Flying > > On Feb 5, 2012, at 12:55 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote: > >> >> Hey Guys, >> >> Let me try a direct question: How much would you expect to pay someone to take the raw fiberglass (canopy, cowl, doors, pants, fairings, wingtips), fit it (and I mean mount the canopy, install windows with Weldon/glass in edges, assemble/fit the doors,fit the cowl with hinge pins/sky bolts, etc., align the pants to air flow, etc.) seal all the pinholes, prime it; prime all the aluminum exterior surfaces (wings, control surfaces, vert/horiz stab, fuse), final paint tri color(either Imron, acrylic enamel, or urethane -- no clear coat)? >> >> I've done this now for an RV-10 and an RV-8A for much less than $7K (all materials/paint included). >> >> It takes about 230 hrs. So far I've done it for friends and love the challenge of it, but now I'm getting referrals and have to re-think this. >> >> Any educated guesses would be appreciated. I have an idea what my time is worth, but was curious what the professionals would charge, or what folks would be willing to pay. >> >> Later, - Lew >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: : RV10-List:Looking for Finish kit and FF kit inventories (was fuselage
kit inventory)
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Hi Gordon That list surely helps me, because I'm helping a buddy to build an RV-10 in Portugal (not so far from where you are located. next time I go to Zurich, I'll try to make a visit). And also the options and changes you made. By the way, would you be so kind to also send the inventory lists for the Finish kit and the Firewall Forward kit? Thanks in advance Carlos Trigo #40788 Portugal > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon Anderson > Sent: segunda-feira, 6 de Fevereiro de 2012 21:17 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Looking for fuselage kit inventory > > Hi Stuewe, > > 2 documents are attached. First is the Van's text file contents for the QB fuselage > and wings. > Second is the pdf of my final packing list from early 2011. If you look on the last 2 > pages of this document you will see things marked as "-1" in the "Qty to Pick" > column - these are the items which I deleted after reading all the advice on the > forum. The last page also shows stuff I ordered additionally from Van's along with > the kit (Andair fuel valve, HID lights, etc). > > In summary: > Change nose wheel and axle for Matco parts > I skipped tyres and tubes at this point and will order them with the windows and > wingtip lenses from Desser > Bonaco brake lines replace the plastic lines and associated hardware. > Bonaco fuel and brake lines could replace the aluminum tubing except for the tank > breathers (I did not delete the alloy tubing). > Andair fuel valve and pump. > Gear leg fairings from S.Africa > > Hope this helps! > > Gordon Anderson > 41015 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Rv10 insurance
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Has anyone any experience with the Britt/Paulk insurance Agency? They may be based in GA. Anyone have knowledge of their aviation insurance companies who reinsure their customers? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: Rv10 insurance
Date: Feb 07, 2012
One insurance carrier is Star Insurance Southfield MI. Anyone have experience? _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 11:10 AM Subject: RV10-List: Rv10 insurance Has anyone any experience with the Britt/Paulk insurance Agency? They may be based in GA. Anyone have knowledge of their aviation insurance companies who reinsure their customers? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Rv10 insurance
Date: Feb 07, 2012
I use them, they are the least expensive option for me. I have Skysmith proving the insurance. They were great to work with. EAA works with Britt/Paulk as well. From: DLM Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 10:09 AM Subject: RV10-List: Rv10 insurance Has anyone any experience with the Britt/Paulk insurance Agency? They may be based in GA. Anyone have knowledge of their aviation insurance companies who reinsure their customers? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
Date: Feb 07, 2012
I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one tank. The balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not found any leaks so far. My question is how long does the balloon need to hold air. It's not going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast from what I've seen using the soapy water. Do I need to leave the balloon connected for a certain amount of time (over night, or perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the next tank. Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings before I install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through vans 3/4" conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? I've got a Gretz heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge lights, and some type of HID position/strobes in the wingtips. I do not plan on any wingtip mounted antennas, so, have I missed anything else? Is there any of these items, or any I may have missed, that I simply cannot do after the bottom skins are installed? Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan on using yet. Can this all be completed later? Thanks for any suggestions, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Drilling the Spar Web?
From: "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au>
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Hi, I'm thinking about drilling the Spar web under the co-pilots seat so that I can mount my Safety Trim control box. Has anyone done similar or have any thoughts on it? cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 VH-DUU Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365827#365827 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com>
You might want to consider the auto pilot harness, roll trim wires, and AOA or stall sensor. Shannon 41153 On Feb 7, 2012 4:43 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" wrote: ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
From: "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au>
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Hi Bill, I can't help you there with the Fuel Tank testing since I have Quick Build wings but the wiring issue I'm facing right now. I'm using # 14 wire for the 55 watt Duckworks HIDs and # 16 for the Gretz Pitot heat. I bench tested my Gretz yesterday and it was drawing 7 amps. The HIDs when I tested them drew around 5.5 amps each on start and then settled down to 3.5 amps. Duckworks recommend the use of #14 wire to aid the startup process. I'm running ground wires for each of the Lights as well as the Pitot heat. The ground return for the Fuel Senders and Stall warning are via the airframe. Check AC 43.13-1B chapter 11 for Electrical Information including the current carrying capacity of wire. cheers John MacCallum Builder #41016 VH-DUU Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365829#365829 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Drilling the Spar Web?
Date: Feb 07, 2012
don't drill the spar. put it on the landing gear mount or somewhere else. -----Original Message----- From: maca2790 Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Drilling the Spar Web? Hi, I'm thinking about drilling the Spar web under the co-pilots seat so that I can mount my Safety Trim control box. Has anyone done similar or have any thoughts on it? cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 VH-DUU Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365827#365827 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Leave the balloon on overnight. It will probably lose some air as Latex does that but if you fill it pretty full and don=99t see any bubbles you are probably fine. In my case I left it overnight and the balloon was slightly less inflated, my tanks haven=99t leaked. Wires- I left my bottom skins off until the end. I put all the wires in as I went. However if you cut the conduit where the access panels are you will be able to add and route wires with the skins on without any issue. Autopilot- let alone panel- are you 6 months from being done with the plane- I planned 18 months before I finished and went the Dynon route, the skyview was recently released and I felt I would be fine, but with technology going the way it is with experimental plan on a panel, wire for it and wait until you are completely ready before committing. In my case I ended up making changes anyway and lost about $200 in wiring changes (fast stack) if you are doing you=99r own wiring than it would be a matter of adjusting pins for the new design. I have the Dynon Skyview Autopilot- The servo looks like a Trutrak and the price is right. Dynon is excellent for customer service unlike the Gxxx certified company, if you want IFR, Dynon is working to improve their system but it is not there yet, great for VFR. As I mentioned above Dynon may be where you need by the time your ready, AFS uses Trutrak. There is a =9310 up in Norcal, he just bought his autopilot after flying 60 plus hours on his plane.. your don=99t need a autopilot right away, you need to know what you will buy first than focus on the autopilot. Hope this helps! Pascal From: Billy & Tami Britton Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one tank. The balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not found any leaks so far. My question is how long does the balloon need to hold air. It's not going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast from what I've seen using the soapy water. Do I need to leave the balloon connected for a certain amount of time (over night, or perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the next tank. Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings before I install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through vans 3/4" conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? I've got a Gretz heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge lights, and some type of HID position/strobes in the wingtips. I do not plan on any wingtip mounted antennas, so, have I missed anything else? Is there any of these items, or any I may have missed, that I simply cannot do after the bottom skins are installed? Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan on using yet. Can this all be completed later? Thanks for any suggestions, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Feb 07, 2012
If you have the vans conduit run, no problems with pulling wire after the bo ttom skins on. The ap and stall are near openings and be reached later Sent from my iPhone On Feb 7, 2012, at 5:24 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" wrote: I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one tank. The b alloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not found any leaks so far . My question is how long does the balloon need to hold air. It's not goin g down, or leaking anywhere--atleast from what I've seen using the soapy wat er. Do I need to leave the balloon connected for a certain amount of time ( over night, or perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the next tank. Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings before I i nstall my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through vans 3/4" condui t. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? I've got a Gretz heated pi tot, will have Duckworks leading edge lights, and some type of HID position/ strobes in the wingtips. I do not plan on any wingtip mounted antennas, so, have I missed anything else? Is there any of these items, or any I may hav e missed, that I simply cannot do after the bottom skins are installed? Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan on usin g yet. Can this all be completed later? Thanks for any suggestions, Bill ========================== ======== ========================== ======== ========================== ======== ========================== ======== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2012
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
On 2/7/2012 6:42 PM, Pascal wrote: > Leave the balloon on overnight. It will probably lose some air as > Latex does that but if you fill it pretty full and don=99t see an y > bubbles you are probably fine. In my case I left it overnight and the > balloon was slightly less inflated, my tanks haven=99t leaked. Barring any leaks the balloon may get bigger or smaller with a change in ambient air pressure. If you set your altimeter (if you have a round gauge) to 0 Ft. you can correlate what the balloon does. Linn snip > Pascal > *From:* Billy & Tami Britton > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:24 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring > I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one > tank. The balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not > found any leaks so far. My question is how long does the balloon need > to hold air. It's not going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast from > what I've seen using the soapy water. Do I need to leave the balloon > connected for a certain amount of time (over night, or perhaps just a > few hours) before I move onto the next tank. > Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings > before I install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through > vans 3/4" conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? I've > got a Gretz heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge lights, and > some type of HID position/strobes in the wingtips. I do not plan on > any wingtip mounted antennas, so, have I missed anything else? Is > there any of these items, or any I may have missed, that I simply > cannot do after the bottom skins are installed? > Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan > on using yet. Can this all be completed later? > Thanks for any suggestions, > Bill > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com /c > * > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
Ditto for temperature changes. If you want peace of mind, leave balloon for a couple days and compare how it deflates and re-inflates with temp changes. On 2/7/2012 5:14 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > On 2/7/2012 6:42 PM, Pascal wrote: >> Leave the balloon on overnight. It will probably lose some air as >> Latex does that but if you fill it pretty full and dont see any >> bubbles you are probably fine. In my case I left it overnight and the >> balloon was slightly less inflated, my tanks havent leaked. > Barring any leaks the balloon may get bigger or smaller with a change > in ambient air pressure. If you set your altimeter (if you have a > round gauge) to 0 Ft. you can correlate what the balloon does. > Linn > snip >> Pascal >> *From:* Billy & Tami Britton >> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:24 PM >> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring >> I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one >> tank. The balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not >> found any leaks so far. My question is how long does the balloon >> need to hold air. It's not going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast >> from what I've seen using the soapy water. Do I need to leave the >> balloon connected for a certain amount of time (over night, or >> perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the next tank. >> Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings >> before I install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through >> vans 3/4" conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? >> I've got a Gretz heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge >> lights, and some type of HID position/strobes in the wingtips. I do >> not plan on any wingtip mounted antennas, so, have I missed anything >> else? Is there any of these items, or any I may have missed, that I >> simply cannot do after the bottom skins are installed? >> Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan >> on using yet. Can this all be completed later? >> Thanks for any suggestions, >> Bill >> * >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c >> * >> * >> >> om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> s.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Thanks for the insight so far guys. After the first 2.5 hours the balloon is still the same size. I'll leave it overnight and check it in the morning. As for the autopilot harness, I'm sure it would be best to run it now but I really don't know what I'm going to use and probably won't mess with it until I decide on a panel (kinda up in the air between AFS and GRT right now). However, it's taken me 3 winters so far to get to this point on the wings so any plans I have now may completely change before I need to start planning the panel. This is the biggest reason I'm not buying anything other than mainly airframe stuff at this point. Thanks again, Bill From: Linn Walters Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 6:14 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring On 2/7/2012 6:42 PM, Pascal wrote: Leave the balloon on overnight. It will probably lose some air as Latex does that but if you fill it pretty full and don=99t see any bubbles you are probably fine. In my case I left it overnight and the balloon was slightly less inflated, my tanks haven=99t leaked. Barring any leaks the balloon may get bigger or smaller with a change in ambient air pressure. If you set your altimeter (if you have a round gauge) to 0 Ft. you can correlate what the balloon does. Linn snip Pascal From: Billy & Tami Britton Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:24 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one tank. The balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not found any leaks so far. My question is how long does the balloon need to hold air. It's not going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast from what I've seen using the soapy water. Do I need to leave the balloon connected for a certain amount of time (over night, or perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the next tank. Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings before I install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through vans 3/4" conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? I've got a Gretz heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge lights, and some type of HID position/strobes in the wingtips. I do not plan on any wingtip mounted antennas, so, have I missed anything else? Is there any of these items, or any I may have missed, that I simply cannot do after the bottom skins are installed? Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan on using yet. Can this all be completed later? Thanks for any suggestions, Bill href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List s.com">http://forums.matronics.com om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2012
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
On 2/7/2012 7:34 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: > Thanks for the insight so far guys. After the first 2.5 hours the > balloon is still the same size. I'll leave it overnight and check it > in the morning. As for the autopilot harness, I'm sure it would be > best to run it now but I really don't know what I'm going to use and > probably won't mess with it until I decide on a panel (kinda up in the > air between AFS and GRT right now). If you haven't yet, check out MGL .... http://www.mglavionics.com/. Linn > However, it's taken me 3 winters so far to get to this point on the > wings so any plans I have now may completely change before I need to > start planning the panel. This is the biggest reason I'm not buying > anything other than mainly airframe stuff at this point. > Thanks again, > Bill > > *From:* Linn Walters > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 07, 2012 6:14 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring > > On 2/7/2012 6:42 PM, Pascal wrote: >> Leave the balloon on overnight. It will probably lose some air as >> Latex does that but if you fill it pretty full and don=99t see a ny >> bubbles you are probably fine. In my case I left it overnight and the >> balloon was slightly less inflated, my tanks haven=99t leaked. > Barring any leaks the balloon may get bigger or smaller with a change > in ambient air pressure. If you set your altimeter (if you have a > round gauge) to 0 Ft. you can correlate what the balloon does. > Linn > snip >> Pascal >> *From:* Billy & Tami Britton >> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:24 PM >> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring >> I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one >> tank. The balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not >> found any leaks so far. My question is how long does the balloon >> need to hold air. It's not going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast >> from what I've seen using the soapy water. Do I need to leave the >> balloon connected for a certain amount of time (over night, or >> perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the next tank. >> Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings >> before I install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through >> vans 3/4" conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? >> I've got a Gretz heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge >> lights, and some type of HID position/strobes in the wingtips. I do >> not plan on any wingtip mounted antennas, so, have I missed anything >> else? Is there any of these items, or any I may have missed, that I >> simply cannot do after the bottom skins are installed? >> Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan >> on using yet. Can this all be completed later? >> Thanks for any suggestions, >> Bill >> * >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matro nics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.co m/c >> * >> * >> >> om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> s.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com /c > * > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
Date: Feb 07, 2012
On my RV-8A I did the leak test and all, then ended up with a weeping rivet on one tank (small blue fuel stain around the rivet). This happened before paint so the fix was painless. On the RV-10 I did the leak test again, but then put about 5 gallons of avgas in each tank, the tanks off the wings. I left the tanks sit for a week or so then rotated each to a new position and let them sit for another week. This way I got gas to sit on each rivet for a few days. No weeps this time. The side benefit of this weep test is that it provides an initial flush of the tank. I drained the fuel via the sump fitting using an automotive inline filter to a 5 gallon can. The next flush will be with the wings on the plane, an automotive filter in place of the real fuel filter, and gas pumped through the system to gas cans. This process also provided means to calibrate the float fuel gauges and perform the required test to verify adequate fuel system flow (after you replace the temporary filter with the real fuel filter). Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami Britton Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 5:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one tank. The balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not found any leaks so far. My question is how long does the balloon need to hold air. It's not going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast from what I've seen using the soapy water. Do I need to leave the balloon connected for a certain amount of time (over night, or perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the next tank. Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings before I install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through vans 3/4" conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? I've got a Gretz heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge lights, and some type of HID position/strobes in the wingtips. I do not plan on any wingtip mounted antennas, so, have I missed anything else? Is there any of these items, or any I may have missed, that I simply cannot do after the bottom skins are installed? Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan on using yet. Can this all be completed later? Thanks for any suggestions, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
From: William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
Is there any reason simply to cleco the bottom skin on, but wait to rivet it until much later in the build. Bill Greenley On Tue, Feb 7, 2012 at 7:34 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: > Thanks for the insight so far guys. After the first 2.5 hours the balloon > is still the same size. I'll leave it overnight and check it in > themorning. As for the autopilot harness, I'm sure it would be best to run > it now but I really don't know what I'm going to use and probably won't mess > with it until I decide on a panel (kinda up in the air between AFS and GRT > right now). However, it's taken me 3 winters so far to get to this point on > the wings so any plans I have now may completely change before I need to > start planning the panel. This is the biggest reason I'm not buying > anything other than mainly airframe stuff at this point. > > Thanks again, > Bill > > From: Linn Walters > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 6:14 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring > > On 2/7/2012 6:42 PM, Pascal wrote: > > Leave the balloon on overnight. It will probably lose some air as Latex does > that but if you fill it pretty full and dont see any bubbles you are > probably fine. In my case I left it overnight and the balloon was slightly > less inflated, my tanks havent leaked. > > Barring any leaks the balloon may get bigger or smaller with a change in > ambient air pressure. If you set your altimeter (if you have a round gauge) > to 0 Ft. you can correlate what the balloon does. > Linn > snip > > Pascal > > From: Billy & Tami Britton > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:24 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring > > I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one tank. The > balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not found any leaks so > far. My question is how long does the balloon need to hold air. It's not > going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast from what I've seen using the soapy > water. Do I need to leave the balloon connected for a certain amount of > time (over night, or perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the next > tank. > > Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings before I > install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through vans 3/4" > conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? I've got a Gretz > heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge lights, and some type of HID > position/strobes in the wingtips. I do not plan on any wingtip mounted > antennas, so, have I missed anything else? Is there any of these items, or > any I may have missed, that I simply cannot do after the bottom skins are > installed? > > Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan on > using yet. Can this all be completed later? > > Thanks for any suggestions, > Bill > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > > om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > s.com">http://forums.matronics.com > om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Drilling the Spar Web?
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Since most people have the control stick cable going to behind the panel to connect the other stick switches, this tends to be a better place to mount the Safety Trim box. Mine is mounted on the next forward bulkhead, top left corner. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 6:43 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilling the Spar Web? don't drill the spar. put it on the landing gear mount or somewhere else. -----Original Message----- From: maca2790 Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Drilling the Spar Web? Hi, I'm thinking about drilling the Spar web under the co-pilots seat so that I can mount my Safety Trim control box. Has anyone done similar or have any thoughts on it? cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 VH-DUU Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365827#365827 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rv10 insurance
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 07, 2012
Check with Jeff Rhodes at CS & A Insurance. Taylorsville, GA. Great guy and he flies an RV too. Best rates for low time pilot. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365848#365848 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2012
Subject: Re: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring
From: Jason Wodack <psychobob96(at)gmail.com>
For your wire sizes, take a look in AC 43-13. they have wire sizing charts in there according to length, current and Voltage. On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 5:28 AM, William Greenley wrote : > > Is there any reason simply to cleco the bottom skin on, but wait to > rivet it until much later in the build. > Bill Greenley > > On Tue, Feb 7, 2012 at 7:34 PM, Billy & Tami Britton > wrote: > > Thanks for the insight so far guys. After the first 2.5 hours the > balloon > > is still the same size. I'll leave it overnight and check it in > > the morning. As for the autopilot harness, I'm sure it would be best t o > run > > it now but I really don't know what I'm going to use and probably won't > mess > > with it until I decide on a panel (kinda up in the air between AFS and > GRT > > right now). However, it's taken me 3 winters so far to get to this > point on > > the wings so any plans I have now may completely change before I need t o > > start planning the panel. This is the biggest reason I'm not buying > > anything other than mainly airframe stuff at this point. > > > > Thanks again, > > Bill > > > > From: Linn Walters > > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 6:14 PM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring > > > > On 2/7/2012 6:42 PM, Pascal wrote: > > > > Leave the balloon on overnight. It will probably lose some air as Latex > does > > that but if you fill it pretty full and don=92t see any bubbles you are > > probably fine. In my case I left it overnight and the balloon was > slightly > > less inflated, my tanks haven=92t leaked. > > > > Barring any leaks the balloon may get bigger or smaller with a change i n > > ambient air pressure. If you set your altimeter (if you have a round > gauge) > > to 0 Ft. you can correlate what the balloon does. > > Linn > > snip > > > > Pascal > > > > From: Billy & Tami Britton > > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 2:24 PM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank leak testing, wing wiring > > > > I'm using vans fuel tank leak testing kit and have completed one tank. > The > > balloon is holding air and using soapy water, I've not found any leaks so > > far. My question is how long does the balloon need to hold air. It's > not > > going down, or leaking anywhere--atleast from what I've seen using the > soapy > > water. Do I need to leave the balloon connected for a certain amount o f > > time (over night, or perhaps just a few hours) before I move onto the > next > > tank. > > > > Next, how do I determine what wire sizes to run through the wings befor e > I > > install my bottom skins. I already have strings ran through vans 3/4" > > conduit. Is this good for now or should I pull wires? I've got a Gret z > > heated pitot, will have Duckworks leading edge lights, and some type of > HID > > position/strobes in the wingtips. I do not plan on any wingtip mounted > > antennas, so, have I missed anything else? Is there any of these items , > or > > any I may have missed, that I simply cannot do after the bottom skins a re > > installed? > > > > Next, question is regarding the autopilot. I don't know what I plan on > > using yet. Can this all be completed later? > > > > Thanks for any suggestions, > > Bill > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com /c > > > > > > om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > s.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com /c > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2012
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Drilling the Spar Web?
Here's where a couple of us put it. Be sure to clean up holes. Patrick Thyssen N15PT --- On Tue, 2/7/12, maca2790 wrote: From: maca2790 <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au> Subject: RV10-List: Drilling the Spar Web? Date: Tuesday, February 7, 2012, 4:47 PM Hi, I'm thinking about drilling the Spar web under the co-pilots seat so th at I can mount my Safety Trim control box. Has anyone done similar or have any thoughts on it? cheers John MacCallum Builder 41016 VH-DUU Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365827#365827 le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: FYI - an updated manual for Precision Airmotive's Fuel Injection
Servo is available I just discovered that that an updated Installation and Spec manual for the Siverhawk EX-5V A1 servo kit is posted on the Airmotive site. It's dated Sept 14, 2011 (just after my first flight). Here's a link to the doc: http://www.precisionairmotive.com/Publications/25-020_a.pdf This is the fuel servo that came with my Van's ordered IO540. The original manual was dated Dec 5, 2003. There are significant update - not necessarily new news but certainly more useful information. Bill "trying to figure out why my minimum idle speed suddenly went up by 150 rpms" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: FYI - an updated manual for Precision Airmotive's Fuel
Injection Servo is available I "assume" you are aware of AD 2009-02-03 Precision Airmotive LLC and Bendix: Amendment 39-15793 that concerns the security of the large plug in the side of the servo. Given your servo is identical to the RSA-5 series other than the EX in the P/N and the timing of when your engine/servo would have been supplied, I'd be sure to check this one. (c) This AD applies to the following reciprocating engines with a Precision Airmotive LLC, RSA-5 or RSA-10 series, or Bendix, RSA-5 or RSA-10 series, fuel injection servo, having a servo plug gasket, part number (P/N) 365533, that was installed under the fuel injection servo plug, P/N 383493, on or after August 22, 2006: (1) Lycoming Engines IO, (L)IO, TIO, (L)TIO, AEIO, AIO, IGO, IVO, and HIO series reciprocating engines. Always good to check for updated manuals, and for ADs on certified equivalent parts, just to ensure there isn't a problem that could affect your plane regardless of the EAA arguments about ADs. Kelly On 2/8/2012 7:45 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > > I just discovered that that an updated Installation and Spec manual > for the Siverhawk EX-5V A1 servo kit is posted on the Airmotive site. > It's dated Sept 14, 2011 (just after my first flight). Here's a link > to the doc: > http://www.precisionairmotive.com/Publications/25-020_a.pdf > > This is the fuel servo that came with my Van's ordered IO540. The > original manual was dated Dec 5, 2003. There are significant update - > not necessarily new news but certainly more useful information. > > Bill "trying to figure out why my minimum idle speed suddenly went up > by 150 rpms" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: measurement request
Date: Feb 08, 2012
If possible please measure the inside distance between the right and left lap belt attach points in the rear right seat. I am considering an extended range tank for that location and want to make sure the custom tank will fit. I plan on venting the tank through a static port part on the right side and plumbing the tank outlet into the right main tank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: FYI - an updated manual for Precision Airmotive's Fuel
Injection Servo is available You assumed correctly. In fact, the AD came out well before I was even close to flying. Turned out that my servo had already had the correct gasket or whatever installed. As I recall, the good units had an identifying mark engraved on the plug. Going back to the updated manual, in the appendices, it includes some great info on setting up the idle and starting procedures. They may have been part of the older manual but I don't have them anymore if they were. Thanks Bill On 2/8/2012 11:32 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > I "assume" you are aware of AD 2009-02-03 Precision Airmotive LLC and > Bendix: Amendment 39-15793 that concerns the security of the large > plug in the side of the servo. Given your servo is identical to the > RSA-5 series other than the EX in the P/N and the timing of when your > engine/servo would have been supplied, I'd be sure to check this one. > (c) This AD applies to the following reciprocating engines with a > Precision Airmotive LLC, RSA-5 or RSA-10 series, or Bendix, RSA-5 or > RSA-10 series, fuel injection servo, having a servo plug gasket, part > number (P/N) 365533, that was installed under the fuel injection servo > plug, P/N 383493, on or after August 22, 2006: > (1) Lycoming Engines IO, (L)IO, TIO, (L)TIO, AEIO, AIO, IGO, IVO, and > HIO series reciprocating engines. > > Always good to check for updated manuals, and for ADs on certified > equivalent parts, just to ensure there isn't a problem that could > affect your plane regardless of the EAA arguments about ADs. > Kelly > > On 2/8/2012 7:45 AM, Bill Watson wrote: >> >> I just discovered that that an updated Installation and Spec manual >> for the Siverhawk EX-5V A1 servo kit is posted on the Airmotive >> site. It's dated Sept 14, 2011 (just after my first flight). Here's >> a link to the doc: >> http://www.precisionairmotive.com/Publications/25-020_a.pdf >> >> This is the fuel servo that came with my Van's ordered IO540. The >> original manual was dated Dec 5, 2003. There are significant update - >> not necessarily new news but certainly more useful information. >> >> Bill "trying to figure out why my minimum idle speed suddenly went up >> by 150 rpms" Watson >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 08, 2012
Subject: Aux fuel tank (was measurement request)
It's almost exactly 18 inches. If anyone is interested, I have a very nice aux fuel tank that was designed for a Lancair but would fit nicely in the back seat area of a 10. It holds about 65 gallons. I don't need much for it. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 12:00 PM, DLM wrote: > If possible please measure the inside distance between the right and > left lap belt attach points in the rear right seat. I am considering an > extended range tank for that location and want to make sure the custom tank > will fit. I plan on venting the tank through a static port part on the > right side and plumbing the tank outlet into the right main tank. **** > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Aux fuel tank (was measurement request)
Didn't someone recently post about a custom tank in the baggage area right under the rear seat backs with around 12-13 gal capacity? Unless going across a big pond, don't know how big the need is to carry more than 70-75 gal for honest 5 hr range. On 2/8/2012 1:36 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > It's almost exactly 18 inches. > > If anyone is interested, I have a very nice aux fuel tank that was > designed for a Lancair but would fit nicely in the back seat area of a > 10. It holds about 65 gallons. I don't need much for it. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 12:00 PM, DLM > wrote: > > If possible please measure the inside distance between the right > and left lap belt attach points in the rear right seat. I am > considering an extended range tank for that location and want to > make sure the custom tank will fit. I plan on venting the tank > through a static port part on the right side and plumbing the > tank outlet into the right main tank. > > * > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 08, 2012
Subject: Re: Aux fuel tank (was measurement request)
Yeah, you'd have to have a pretty special mission. This one was built for an ocean crossing but never used since the builder realized he couldn't put a semi-rigid tank in a pressurized cabin. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 1:02 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Didn't someone recently post about a custom tank in the baggage area right > under the rear seat backs with around 12-13 gal capacity? Unless going > across a big pond, don't know how big the need is to carry more than 70-75 > gal for honest 5 hr range. > > On 2/8/2012 1:36 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > >> It's almost exactly 18 inches. >> >> If anyone is interested, I have a very nice aux fuel tank that was >> designed for a Lancair but would fit nicely in the back seat area of a 10. >> It holds about 65 gallons. I don't need much for it. >> >> Dave Saylor >> AirCrafters >> 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 95076 >> 831-722-9141 Shop >> 831-750-0284 Cell >> >> >> On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 12:00 PM, DLM > dlm34077(at)q.com>> wrote: >> >> If possible please measure the inside distance between the right >> and left lap belt attach points in the rear right seat. I am >> considering an extended range tank for that location and want to >> make sure the custom tank will fit. I plan on venting the tank >> through a static port part on the right side and plumbing the >> tank outlet into the right main tank. >> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.**matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-**List> >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.**com/contribution> >> >> * >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Pitot tube mast
I will be installing the Dynon heated pitot/AOA. They recommend either the Gretz or SafeAir. While the Gretz is more than double the price, I'm sitting on the fence. Anyone have strong reasons for one over the other? Kelly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: extended range tank
Date: Feb 09, 2012
I've designed and built a tank that goes behind the rear seats and hold 20 gallons. It installs and removes in minutes thru the baggage door. I requires under floor mods for attaching to the floor, so is best done before closing the baggage floor out. If interested in pictures contact me by email. Chris Hukill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Drilling the Spar Web?
From: "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au>
Date: Feb 09, 2012
Thank you Patrick for the photos. That's is precisely the sort of thing I was thinking about doing. I asked Vans about drilling the Web and they seemed to think it would be ok as long as the holes were small and not great in number. I think 4 x #19 holes would qualify in that respect. As for the 3M Velcro I think that Idea has merit as well. I have actually got some here that I had used to mount a Remote Control Head for a Ham radio in my SUV. It worked well for about 8 months and then the Sun eventually melted the glue and it fell off. (it gets hot in Aussie) I still can't get the glue off the Dashboard :) thank you all John MacCallum Builder 41016 VH-DUU Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365990#365990 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Drilling the Spar Web?
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Feb 09, 2012
Instead of drilling new holes, i first try using any existing holes. Thus, I used the existing spar attach bolts to attach a small shelf for holding all my control stick wiring and connections, which worked out well. Unfortunately, i can't find photos of my install. FWIW. Jae -------- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365991#365991 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Drilling the Spar Web?
From: "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au>
Date: Feb 09, 2012
Good point Tim. I was also thinking of trying to make some sort of bracket that I could hang off the cover plate that is under the seat. Maybe something coming off the existing bolts on the Undercarriage mounts would be good as well. I will have a think about it. Another thought I just had is to make some sort of tray arrangement so that the tray captures anything that falls off before it falls onto the control rods. thanks all again. John MacCallum Builder 41016 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365995#365995 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 09, 2012
I installed the safeair. The quality looks fine and the install was not difficult. -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365997#365997 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2012
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Thanks Bill. I was beginning to wonder if my question made it to the list. I know some used the Gretz....arguments for it? On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 5:53 PM, bill.peyton wrote: > > I installed the safeair. The quality looks fine and the install was not difficult. > > -------- > Bill Peyton > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365997#365997 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
Date: Feb 09, 2012
Hey Kelly, I have the Gretz. The first one I hooked up melted when I powered it up. Since SteinAir is so awesome they sent me another one right away. Must have had a bad batch of pitots way back then. The second one worked/works great. I would go for the simplest solution. The Gretz has a timer and three lights for the panel, (fail),(heat),(idle). I think a pitot that you turn on if there is visible moisture and 10 C or less and forget about it is good. The only thing I like about the Gretz is there is a light that is on when it is on. As long as you have a way to remind you it's on. Maybe one light would be sufficient without a timer. I don't know anything about the other pitots so I can't say they would be simpler. Sean ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 7:17 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Pitot tube mast > > Thanks Bill. I was beginning to wonder if my question made it to the > list. I know some used the Gretz....arguments for it? > > On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 5:53 PM, bill.peyton > wrote: >> >> I installed the safeair. The quality looks fine and the install was not >> difficult. >> >> -------- >> Bill Peyton >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365997#365997 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
Date: Feb 10, 2012
Hi Kelly, I just finished installing the Gretz mount for the Dynon pitot. The Gretz kit appears to be slightly more complicated, having a reinforcing backplate riveted to the skin and spar, plus a spacer plate and most of the nutplates and bolts required (except those to join the pitot and mast). The arrangement is obviously heavier (steel mast, more parts) but perhaps more robust (no cracking history). The mast is removable for storage and painting if wanted (eg. with the chrome mast) and is not in place when you rivet the bottom skins on. The mast is bolted afterwards to the reinforcement plate inside the wing. In consultation with my tech advisor I also added an additional length of J-stiffener along the back edge of the reinforcing plate to reduce skin flexing under load. Altogether it became a little complex (perhaps over engineered) but it shouldn't fall off=85. :-) Cheers, Gordon 41015 Switzerland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Leaking brake cylinder fitting
Date: Feb 10, 2012
Hi I installed by brakes per Van's plan eons ago. My only problem was a weeping leak at the bottom on one master cylinder that I couldn't fix. What I was experiencing was a zero pressure leak, just a weeping leak that would form a drop of fluid after a few days. Then I would get a drip on the floor pan. To solve, I tried changing the fittings and then, at the suggestion of Matco, I used Loctite 567 thread sealant. Still no luck. My fear was I had over tightened the compression fitting and damaged the threads. Anyway, I pulled the cylinder and installed a new one. I sent the original back to Matco for inspection. I just had a very interesting call from Matco where they explained what happened. First, they did a zero pressure test and duplicated my problem. Them they cleaned the treads and tried again. They still had a problem. Finally they disassembled the cylinder and really cleaned it with acetone. WARNING: don't use solvent if the rubber fittings are in place as they will be damaged. They found hardened sealant at the bottom of the fitting hole that was preventing the Loctite 567 from doing its job. They said there is a leak path at the bottom of compression fittings that the Loctite seals. The old hardened sealant was preventing this from happening. When completely cleaned and reinstalled using Loctite 567, the cylinder functioned perfectly. Page 38-3 of the Van's plans suggest using fuel lube or a similar thread sealant to seal the fittings. Matco's recommendation is to use Loctite 567 which is a very different product. This also matches the recommendation of my local A&Ps. The only really good thing that came out of this is I can now bleed my brakes in under 5 minutes - practise does make perfect. As a side note, they mentioned that there was dust / debris on the top of the cylinder that accumulated during my build. They cautioned that this should be cleaned off as it could cause a problem with the seal where the shaft exits the cylinder. Although I have been cleaning fairly often, I never even thought about the top of the cylinders. It is something to keep in mind. Cheers Les #40643 I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel PS: Matco was very, very helpful throughout all of this. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
Date: Feb 10, 2012
I installed the gretz. Its pretty straightforward and appears sturdy. Havent flown it yet. Dont know how it compares to others. Niko On Feb 9, 2012, at 9:17 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Thanks Bill. I was beginning to wonder if my question made it to the > list. I know some used the Gretz....arguments for it? > > On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 5:53 PM, bill.peyton wrote: >> >> I installed the safeair. The quality looks fine and the install was not difficult. >> >> -------- >> Bill Peyton >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=365997#365997 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
While the only one I know is the Gretz, I've been happy with it. I bought it only for it's thermostatic control. I leave it on for long periods of time and I see by the lights that it only cycles as-needed. So from an energy (battery) conservation perspective, I like it. That said, I'd probably not be too unhappy with any good heated pitot. The gretz mount I liked either way. Tim On 2/10/2012 12:36 PM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Nikolaos Napoli > > I installed the gretz. Its pretty straightforward and appears sturdy. Havent flown it yet. Dont know how it compares to others. > > Niko > > > On Feb 9, 2012, at 9:17 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen >> >> Thanks Bill. I was beginning to wonder if my question made it to the >> list. I know some used the Gretz....arguments for it? >> >> On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 5:53 PM, bill.peyton wrote: >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bill.peyton" >>> >>> I installed the safeair. The quality looks fine and the install was not difficult. >>> >>> -------- >>> Bill Peyton >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2012
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
I used the Dynon pitot in the Gretz mount. No complaints so far. As Tim notes, the thermostatic control really seems to save power. On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 11:09 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > While the only one I know is the Gretz, I've been happy with it. > I bought it only for it's thermostatic control. I leave it > on for long periods of time and I see by the lights that it > only cycles as-needed. So from an energy (battery) conservation > perspective, I like it. That said, I'd probably not be too > unhappy with any good heated pitot. The gretz mount I liked > either way. > > Tim > > > On 2/10/2012 12:36 PM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Nikolaos Napoli >> >> I installed the gretz. Its pretty straightforward and appears sturdy. >> Havent flown it yet. Dont know how it compares to others. >> >> Niko >> >> >> On Feb 9, 2012, at 9:17 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: >> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen >>> >>> Thanks Bill. I was beginning to wonder if my question made it to the >>> list. I know some used the Gretz....arguments for it? >>> >>> On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 5:53 PM, bill.peyton> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bill.peyton"<peyton.b@** >>>> sbcglobal.net > >>>> >>>> I installed the safeair. The quality looks fine and the install was >>>> not difficult. >>>> >>>> -------- >>>> Bill Peyton >>>> >>>> > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2012
I have the Dynon heated AoA with the Gretz mount. Works fine. I remember it was a complicated install. John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366066#366066 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Fuel Line
Date: Feb 11, 2012
I found a leak in my fuel line that runs from the spider down to the fuel servo. The leak occurred where the hose goes through the baffle from the spider so I removed the armor from the hose over the leak and found that the rubber center was very stiff and not very flexible. The hose has been affected by the heat in that area but I don't know where to get a replacement hose or what to specify as to hose type. Is this a time limited part-mine has been in service in sunny Arizona for 3-1/2 years- or was the hose quality not good enough in the first place. The original did not have fire-sleeve on it: would fire-sleeve have help protect it from the heat? Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Feb 11, 2012
I also have the Gretz mount and the Dynon Pitot. I thought the installation was straightforward. I did it prior to riveting the skin. The Dynon is, like the Gretz, thermostatically controlled. It will drive a light to show that it's turned on and working. I haven't yet hooked it up to anything other than my GRT EIS. Software guru's: Does anyone know if it's possible to code the GRT EIS so that with the OAT < 5 C AND a given analog input (hooked to the pitot sensor) high, it will send a warning? e.g., I'd like to get a pitot heat reminder if I forget to turn it on when the OAT < 5C. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366082#366082 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
Date: Feb 11, 2012
How about this for a 2 minute answer..... Use the coolant temp line on your EIS and set the lower end to alarm at -5C. Put that line through a normally closed relay that is activated by the pilot heat (on line).... Now I can already see a couple of problems with that, but they could be worked out....like what is the reading with no input...would you have to provide a false signal for when the heat is on, etc. Another idea that would work.....a couple of years ago at an AOPA event I saw a guy selling an ice detector. You could use one of those to warn you when you have ice. You would have to figure out where to mount it so that it ices up first so that if you have not turned on the pitot heat you are not too late. You could use one of the analog lines in the GRT system. I will put more than two minutes on this later......I am not an electronics guy....I may have been trained by the Air Force back in the 70's but since then electricity has changed.....or maybe I have just gotten older. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 2:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pitot tube mast I also have the Gretz mount and the Dynon Pitot. I thought the installation was straightforward. I did it prior to riveting the skin. The Dynon is, like the Gretz, thermostatically controlled. It will drive a light to show that it's turned on and working. I haven't yet hooked it up to anything other than my GRT EIS. Software guru's: Does anyone know if it's possible to code the GRT EIS so that with the OAT < 5 C AND a given analog input (hooked to the pitot sensor) high, it will send a warning? e.g., I'd like to get a pitot heat reminder if I forget to turn it on when the OAT < 5C. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366082#366082 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Medical
Date: Feb 11, 2012
Got my first old age scare this past year....one year ago I was told I had ocular hypertension.....high pressure in the eye. I looked it up on the FAA site and found out that although my eye doctor said I had no problems, that my flight surgeon would not be able to sign my medical. Trying to be proactive I got my eye doctor the form the FAA said they needed and well before my medical expired, I got a fresh eye exam with all the special test I needed and then did my flight physical...due to scheduling problems that was done right after Christmas. My flight surgeon proceeded to defer my medical to the FAA and sent in all the paperwork. Since my old medical expired 31 Jan 12, I started calling the last week of Jan. They were very pleasant, but all they would tell me was that they had the paperwork and they would get to it when they got to it. Long story short, they got to it and I receive a new medical 10 Feb. Although I thought there was no problem......it really hit me hard when it got to a point where I could not fly. Caution....the FAA can be slow.... Rene N423CF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Medical
On 2/11/2012 5:39 PM, Rene wrote: > Having been down this road a couple times, just keep in mind that you CAN fly, as long as you locate an appropriately rated pilot to act as PIC. Maybe a little tricky if you want to meet insurance requirements for open pilot...but for FAA just needs private with HP endorsement. > > Although I thought there was no problem......it really hit me hard when it > got to a point where I could not fly. > > Caution....the FAA can be slow.... > > > Rene > N423CF > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Medical
Let me reformat that so it reads correctly On 2/11/2012 5:52 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > >> Having been down this road a couple times, just keep in mind that >> you CAN fly, as long as you locate an appropriately rated pilot to >> act as PIC. Maybe a little tricky if you want to meet insurance >> requirements for open pilot...but for FAA just needs private with HP >> endorsement. If your insurance calls for 25 hours of RV time....a post to Van's Airforce offering a ride in RV-10 to anyone meeting that # hours and qualifications should get you someone to play the role. I did that for 9 months with a hung kidney stone that was too small to blast. Just had to find someone with tailwheel experience for the plane I had then. >> On 2/11/2012 5:39 PM, Rene wrote: >> Although I thought there was no problem......it really hit me hard >> when it >> got to a point where I could not fly. >> >> Caution....the FAA can be slow.... >> >> >> Rene >> N423CF >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Feb 11, 2012
Rene, Thanks for your thoughts. Problem is, there is only one analog output for all alarms. I don't want "pitot heat needed" illuminating when it's time to change fuel tanks, for example. Of course the serial output line has all the info. But that sounds a lot harder. Bob -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366104#366104 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
Date: Feb 11, 2012
I was thinking GRT EFIS when I wrote that. http://www.newavionics.com/9732_oem.html#icing You could run a separate warning light.....but maybe overkill. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 6:17 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pitot tube mast Rene, Thanks for your thoughts. Problem is, there is only one analog output for all alarms. I don't want "pitot heat needed" illuminating when it's time to change fuel tanks, for example. Of course the serial output line has all the info. But that sounds a lot harder. Bob -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366104#366104 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2012
Subject: Aircraft Specialty
From: Steven T <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
Good evening everyone. My name is Steve, and I am an RV builder in Wisconsin. We just finished an RV-10, and previously I have completed a Challenger Amphib and about half a Murphy Moose. I have been involved in different aspects of aviation for my entire life, and have a passion for working on airplanes. It was only natural that my passion would eventually turn into a business, and I am now officially announcing the start of Aircraft Specialty LLC. We are working toward being a one stop shop for all your aviation needs. Right now we carry multiple product lines including: Sioux Tools, Lightspeed Headsets, Clecos and Accessories, and Tungsten Bucking Bars. In addition, we do custom hydraulic hose assemblies (with an online calculator for automatic price quoting.), and are going to be adding a full CNC machine shop in the next several months. Our website is www.aircraftspecialty.com I'd love it if you would take a look and feel free to forward suggestions and comments on what product lines you would be interested in seeing in the future. Also, please feel free to let your friends know about our site. I understand the value of customer service, and feel that it will help differentiate us. My goal is to make sure all of our customers are 110% satisfied, and I will do whatever it takes to make sure that you are. Thanks again, and I look forward to doing business with you in the future. Sincerely, Steve Aircraft Specialty LLC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: Medical
Date: Feb 12, 2012
Rene, As an AME, ocular hypertension is a condition the AME cannot approve(the initial time) It requires your ophthalmologist to fill out FA form 8500-14 and visual field testing. Your AME can get the approval through Oklahoma City or the regional flight surgeon(I don't know which state you live in) but I prefer to go through the regional flight surgeon rather than Oklahoma. It is usually much quicker. Regards, Alan Mekler MD AME #20052 RV10 N668G -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 7:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: Medical Got my first old age scare this past year....one year ago I was told I had ocular hypertension.....high pressure in the eye. I looked it up on the FAA site and found out that although my eye doctor said I had no problems, that my flight surgeon would not be able to sign my medical. Trying to be proactive I got my eye doctor the form the FAA said they needed and well before my medical expired, I got a fresh eye exam with all the special test I needed and then did my flight physical...due to scheduling problems that was done right after Christmas. My flight surgeon proceeded to defer my medical to the FAA and sent in all the paperwork. Since my old medical expired 31 Jan 12, I started calling the last week of Jan. They were very pleasant, but all they would tell me was that they had the paperwork and they would get to it when they got to it. Long story short, they got to it and I receive a new medical 10 Feb. Although I thought there was no problem......it really hit me hard when it got to a point where I could not fly. Caution....the FAA can be slow.... Rene N423CF ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: extended range tank
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 12, 2012
Looks like a very well made tank. Are they using .050 aluminum or thicker? Also does it contain any baffles. I was thinking that a gravity feed might be a good way to go. Obviously it has a risk of leakage and fire which is a big deal, but for occasional use and simplicity it cannot be beat. Turn a spigot and it empties into the main tank by gravity. Have a stopcock at the tank and next to the pilot. Also how big does a tank need to be to need baffles inside. I figure with a partial tank in turbulence that the sloshing could induce some uncomfortable motion. Just wondering. -------- See you OSH '12 Q/B - flying 2 yrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366133#366133 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 12, 2012
Subject: Re: extended range tank
The tank structure is honeycomb sheet. It pins together on the sides and breaks down to flat sheets for storage. The bladder is supported inside the tank by heavy duty cords, which is pretty standard. I don't know if there are baffles inside the bladder. The volume is pretty compact so I don't think sloshing would be much of an issue even without any baffles. I'd put a small Facet-type transfer pump that still allows gravity feed and T it into one of the mains with the valves you mentioned. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sun, Feb 12, 2012 at 8:13 AM, AirMike wrote: > > Looks like a very well made tank. Are they using .050 aluminum or thicker? > Also does it contain any baffles. > > I was thinking that a gravity feed might be a good way to go. Obviously it > has a risk of leakage and fire which is a big deal, but for occasional use > and simplicity it cannot be beat. Turn a spigot and it empties into the > main tank by gravity. Have a stopcock at the tank and next to the pilot. > > Also how big does a tank need to be to need baffles inside. I figure with > a partial tank in turbulence that the sloshing could induce some > uncomfortable motion. Just wondering. > > -------- > See you OSH '12 > Q/B - flying 2 yrs. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366133#366133 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube mast
Date: Feb 12, 2012
I will echo Tim's comments. I have no experience with the others, but have been very happy with the Gretz. Installation was straight forward. David Maib 40559 Flying 460 hours On Feb 10, 2012, at 2:09 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > While the only one I know is the Gretz, I've been happy with it. > I bought it only for it's thermostatic control. I leave it > on for long periods of time and I see by the lights that it > only cycles as-needed. So from an energy (battery) conservation > perspective, I like it. That said, I'd probably not be too > unhappy with any good heated pitot. The gretz mount I liked > either way. > > Tim > > > On 2/10/2012 12:36 PM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Nikolaos Napoli >> >> I installed the gretz. Its pretty straightforward and appears >> sturdy. Havent flown it yet. Dont know how it compares to others. >> >> Niko >> >> >> On Feb 9, 2012, at 9:17 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: >> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen >>> >>> Thanks Bill. I was beginning to wonder if my question made it to the >>> list. I know some used the Gretz....arguments for it? >>> >>> On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 5:53 PM, >>> bill.peyton wrote: >>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: >>>> "bill.peyton" >>>> >>>> I installed the safeair. The quality looks fine and the install >>>> was not difficult. >>>> >>>> -------- >>>> Bill Peyton >>>> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wheel Pants
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Feb 13, 2012
I remember seeing a post a year or two ago about someone that was producing aftermarket main gear wheel pants. Does anybody know anything about this? I don't know if it was on this forum or VAF. [Question] -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Transition Trainer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366204#366204 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2012
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Medical
Rene=0A-=0AI had a medical issue 3 yrs ago that was going to put my medic al in the "FAA limbo basket." I found that the EAA had Medical avocates to help with such a situation. I found one in Utah that with-one phone call to the regional flight surgeon got everything straightend out. He was very responsive and knew exactly how to correct things and get my medical issued immeadiatly. This man is also an AME and you may be interested to know tha t he lives and practices in the BMC area. If I lived closer I would use him exclusivly.=0A-DAVID G. HESS, MD=0A950 S 500 W=0ABRIGHAM CITY, UTAH, 84 302 =0A(435) 734-4144 Dr. HESS is a pilot too =0A-=0A-=0ASteve=0A4021 2=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Rene <rene(at)felker.com> =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 5:39 PM e" =0A=0AGot my first old age scare this past year....one year ago I was told I had=0Aocular hypertension.....high pressure in the ey e.- I looked it up on the FAA=0Asite and found out that although my eye d octor said I had no problems, that=0Amy flight surgeon would not be able to sign my medical.- Trying to be=0Aproactive I got my eye doctor the form the FAA said they needed and well=0Abefore my medical expired, I got a fres h eye exam with all the special test=0AI needed and then did my flight phys ical...due to scheduling problems that=0Awas done right after Christmas.- My flight surgeon proceeded to defer my=0Amedical to the FAA and sent in a ll the paperwork.- Since my old medical=0Aexpired 31 Jan 12, I started ca lling the last week of Jan.- They were very=0Apleasant, but all they woul d tell me was that they had the paperwork and=0Athey would get to it when t hey got to it.- Long story short, they got to it=0Aand I receive a new me dical 10 Feb.=0A=0AAlthough I thought there was no problem......it really h it me hard when it=0Agot to a point where I could not fly.=0A=0ACaution.... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List ====== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Wheel Pants
Date: Feb 13, 2012
I have the James wheel pants on my 10. They were harder to fit than the Van's pants. They are not as wide as the Van's pants but I don't yet have any performance data. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)me.com Sent: Monday, February 13, 2012 12:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Pants I remember seeing a post a year or two ago about someone that was producing aftermarket main gear wheel pants. Does anybody know anything about this? I don't know if it was on this forum or VAF. [Question] -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Transition Trainer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366204#366204 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Pants
Date: Feb 13, 2012
No, the pants I remember seeing were not the James pants. Someone was making them with an eye to offering them as a replacement for the stock pants. They looked like they would have really nice fit and finish with far less work than the originals. Mine are beginning to show some wear and tear, and since I have never been very happy with the way mine turned out, I was just wondering if there was another option out there, or if I had been dreaming again! David Maib RV-10 #40559 Transition Trainer On Feb 13, 2012, at 7:40 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > > > I have the James wheel pants on my 10. They were harder to fit > than the > Van's pants. They are not as wide as the Van's pants but I don't > yet have > any performance data. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > dmaib(at)me.com > Sent: Monday, February 13, 2012 12:00 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Pants > > > I remember seeing a post a year or two ago about someone that was > producing > aftermarket main gear wheel pants. Does anybody know anything about > this? I > don't know if it was on this forum or VAF. [Question] > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > Transition Trainer > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366204#366204 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2012
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Pants
You may be thinking of a product from Airflow Technology which they describe as "Low Profile Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants". I have a flier from them in my files but don't remember where I got it. The flier lists the main gear pants including gear leg fairings for $390 each and the nosewheel pant at $275. Surprisingly I don't see a URL but they list the phone number 831-771-0438. If interested, I would try to find them on the web first by searching for them by company name tolearn a little more about them. Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA Wings ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ On 2/13/2012 6:44 PM, David Maib wrote: > > No, the pants I remember seeing were not the James pants. Someone was > making them with an eye to offering them as a replacement for the > stock pants. They looked like they would have really nice fit and > finish with far less work than the originals. Mine are beginning to > show some wear and tear, and since I have never been very happy with > the way mine turned out, I was just wondering if there was another > option out there, or if I had been dreaming again! > > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > Transition Trainer > > On Feb 13, 2012, at 7:40 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > >> >> >> I have the James wheel pants on my 10. They were harder to fit than the >> Van's pants. They are not as wide as the Van's pants but I don't yet >> have >> any performance data. >> >> Carl >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)me.com >> Sent: Monday, February 13, 2012 12:00 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Pants >> >> >> I remember seeing a post a year or two ago about someone that was >> producing >> aftermarket main gear wheel pants. Does anybody know anything about >> this? I >> don't know if it was on this forum or VAF. [Question] >> >> -------- >> David Maib >> RV-10 #40559 >> Transition Trainer >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366204#366204 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel Pants
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Feb 14, 2012
Thanks guy's. Alan Bikle at Airflow Technology is the one I was looking for. I will get in touch with him. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Transition Trainer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366278#366278 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 14, 2012
Same problem here on the port side tank. Leaks when I fill over 20-25 gallons. Kind of a pain, so I keep the fuel level down except when I am ready to launch. Quick build 2007. -------- See you OSH '12 Q/B - flying 2 yrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366334#366334 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Date: Feb 14, 2012
I know it will not make this any better......but I flew 410RV for my transition training. The fuel tank leaked on the co-pilot side (starboard). I build my own tanks and have a leak on the starboard side also. My leak is one rivet on the walk plate. I have tried several times to seal it with no success. I tried again last week and first indications are that I was successful.....but only time will tell. It is really no big deal because mine is such a minor leak....but I feel I need to keep trying. I think of my RV-10 as a tool and tools do not have to look perfect, they just need to work that way. I have not seen any adverse handling qualities with the leak....(that is a joke)...so it is ok. If I had paid someone else to build my tanks, I think it would be P$%^ me off if they leaked. But since I built them myself, I just feel real lucky that I only have one minor leak.....after I completed the leak test. The leak testing did show another more significant leak that I was able to fix during the build....but it did not show the leaking rivet. I think that did not show up until after somebody stepped on that portion of the tank. Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 11:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Leaking tanks Same problem here on the port side tank. Leaks when I fill over 20-25 gallons. Kind of a pain, so I keep the fuel level down except when I am ready to launch. Quick build 2007. -------- See you OSH '12 Q/B - flying 2 yrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366334#366334 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Feb 14, 2012
I have weeping top rivets, too. I did the leak testing with a ballon, etc. after building the tanks, and all checked out at the time. Recently, I tried squishing proseal with some negative pressure in the tank. It seemed to help some. I repeated the positive tank pressure test with soapy water which revealed one weeping rivet but not some others with fuel. Clearly, the positive tank pressure test with just a balloon is not good enough to reveal all weeping rivets. Jae -------- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366336#366336 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Feb 15, 2012
We had this same problem on both tanks (quick build). After conversations with Vans we discovered that the tank is not meant to stepped on, although it appears that the inboard bay is reinforced, it is not meant to be stepped on. After studying the drawings (keep in mind I have never viewed the inside of a tank), I think the cause of the leaking rivets, aside from stepping on them) is that the stiffener angle does not overlap the inboard rib. This puts a huge force on the end rivets of the stiffener rib, since any force on the skin flexes the skin away from the rivet. If this doesn't make any sense I could make a drawing... The only solution I found was to drill out the rivet and replace it with another rivet with JB weld under the head and generously applied to the hole. These rivets have essentially become glued joints. We tried the green Loctite, green Loctite with a vacuum, pro-seal, pro-seal thinned with MEK with a vacuum. The final solution was JB Weld and making sure to never step or sit on the tank. Those extra rivets lull you into thinking that it is a step - it is not. Thanks - Jason -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366342#366342 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2012
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
There are reports of green Loctite filling small leaks in the fuel tanks. I don't know if it works or not since I haven't gone down that path yet. Negative pressure from a shop vac may help as well as 'cleaning' by using MEK or acetone. Linn On 2/15/2012 2:33 AM, jchang10 wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "jchang10" > > I have weeping top rivets, too. I did the leak testing with a ballon, etc. after building the tanks, and all checked out at the time. > > Recently, I tried squishing proseal with some negative pressure in the tank. It seemed to help some. I repeated the positive tank pressure test with soapy water which revealed one weeping rivet but not some others with fuel. > > Clearly, the positive tank pressure test with just a balloon is not good enough to reveal all weeping rivets. > > Jae > > -------- > #40533 RV-10 > First flight 10/19/2011 > Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366336#366336 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2012
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Leaking tanks and green Loctite
I wish I had read Jason Kreiders email (tried the green Loctite and failed) before I hit 'send'. There must be some unknown (at this time) factor for those with success using the green Loctite ..... if there really are any. So, I pose the question ..... have any RVers fixed their leaking tanks with the green Loctite??? Linn On 2/15/2012 9:06 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > There are reports of green Loctite filling small leaks in the fuel > tanks. I don't know if it works or not since I haven't gone down that > path yet. > Negative pressure from a shop vac may help as well as 'cleaning' by > using MEK or acetone. > Linn > > > On 2/15/2012 2:33 AM, jchang10 wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: >> "jchang10" >> >> I have weeping top rivets, too. I did the leak testing with a ballon, >> etc. after building the tanks, and all checked out at the time. >> >> Recently, I tried squishing proseal with some negative pressure in >> the tank. It seemed to help some. I repeated the positive tank >> pressure test with soapy water which revealed one weeping rivet but >> not some others with fuel. >> >> Clearly, the positive tank pressure test with just a balloon is not >> good enough to reveal all weeping rivets. >> >> Jae >> >> -------- >> #40533 RV-10 >> First flight 10/19/2011 >> Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366336#366336 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks and green Loctite
Jason's email was pretty much right on. I have had 1 rivet on the upper skin forward of the spar that leaked very slightly...just enough to make a blue spot around it. Admittedly, I often sit and have stood many times on that area, so it has taken a lot of abuse and I wasn't surprised it leaked. I have anti-skid tape there too, to encourage people to do the wrong thing. But, I like the looks of it, and it keeps my camera/ipad/bags/phone from slipping away when I set it there, so I leave it. I used green loctite after hearing about it here. But, I didn't have luck on my first try. My first try, I left the paint on the rivet..it was just a tiny crack ring of paint. I tried to force it through and hoped it wicked. It didn't work. What did work is to use a razor to cut the paint and pop the whole flake of the rivet head off, so I had maybe <1mm around the rivet area removed. Then I picked at the rivet head seam a little with the tip of an exacto. Then I put a puddle of green loctite on the area, and hooked up my air compressor to a rubber hose with a blowgun handle, and pushed down hard over the rivet and added a little (not full blast) pressure with the blowgun. I repeated this about 5 times, trying to force the stuff into the seam. Once I was done, I let it all dry, then added touch-up paint. It fixed it and has stayed good now. Tim On 2/15/2012 8:19 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > I wish I had read Jason Kreiders email (tried the green Loctite and > failed) before I hit 'send'. > There must be some unknown (at this time) factor for those with success > using the green Loctite ..... if there really are any. > > So, I pose the question ..... have any RVers fixed their leaking tanks > with the green Loctite??? > > Linn > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 15, 2012
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks and green Loctite
I've had some leaky rivets too, on both QB tanks. Loctite didn't help so I drilled out the rivets and replaced them with prosealed, closed-bulb blind rivets. That worked long enough on the left tank that I made the same repair on the right. Since then all the same rivets have started leaking on the left but the right is OK so far. I kind of expect them to leak too. The next step is going to be to strip the paint and lay down a layer of something to make that area bulletproof. I'm thinking of a thin sheet of aluminum prosealed and vaccum bagged to the outer skin of the tank. I really like the utility of being able to sit on the leading edge and not worry about stepping there now and then so for me it would be worth the effort to beef up that area. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 7:01 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Jason's email was pretty much right on. > I have had 1 rivet on the upper skin forward of the > spar that leaked very slightly...just enough to make > a blue spot around it. Admittedly, I often sit > and have stood many times on that area, so it > has taken a lot of abuse and I wasn't surprised > it leaked. I have anti-skid tape there too, to > encourage people to do the wrong thing. But, > I like the looks of it, and it keeps my > camera/ipad/bags/phone from slipping away when > I set it there, so I leave it. > > I used green loctite after hearing about it here. > But, I didn't have luck on my first try. My > first try, I left the paint on the rivet..it was > just a tiny crack ring of paint. I tried to > force it through and hoped it wicked. It didn't work. > > What did work is to use a razor to cut the paint and > pop the whole flake of the rivet head off, so I had > maybe <1mm around the rivet area removed. Then I > picked at the rivet head seam a little with the tip > of an exacto. Then I put a puddle of green loctite > on the area, and hooked up my air compressor to > a rubber hose with a blowgun handle, and pushed > down hard over the rivet and added a little (not > full blast) pressure with the blowgun. I repeated > this about 5 times, trying to force the stuff into > the seam. Once I was done, I let it all dry, then > added touch-up paint. It fixed it and has stayed > good now. > > Tim > > On 2/15/2012 8:19 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > >> >> I wish I had read Jason Kreiders email (tried the green Loctite and >> failed) before I hit 'send'. >> There must be some unknown (at this time) factor for those with success >> using the green Loctite ..... if there really are any. >> >> So, I pose the question ..... have any RVers fixed their leaking tanks >> with the green Loctite??? >> >> Linn >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Leaking tanks and green Loctite
Date: Feb 15, 2012
My RV-4 is a very old one - S/N 313, with the old proseal that was used back in the 80's. I've had a number of weeping rivets. I've used green loctite on them with generally good results. I just lay a drop of loctite on top of the rivet making sure it covers the whole crack around the rivet. I let it sit for about 5 minutes, then wipe up the excess. A couple of them have required a second treatment, but that did the trick. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (Flaps) Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 9:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Leaking tanks and green Loctite I wish I had read Jason Kreiders email (tried the green Loctite and failed) before I hit 'send'. There must be some unknown (at this time) factor for those with success using the green Loctite ..... if there really are any. So, I pose the question ..... have any RVers fixed their leaking tanks with the green Loctite??? Linn On 2/15/2012 9:06 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > There are reports of green Loctite filling small leaks in the fuel > tanks. I don't know if it works or not since I haven't gone down that > path yet. > Negative pressure from a shop vac may help as well as 'cleaning' by > using MEK or acetone. > Linn > > > On 2/15/2012 2:33 AM, jchang10 wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: >> "jchang10" >> >> I have weeping top rivets, too. I did the leak testing with a ballon, >> etc. after building the tanks, and all checked out at the time. >> >> Recently, I tried squishing proseal with some negative pressure in >> the tank. It seemed to help some. I repeated the positive tank >> pressure test with soapy water which revealed one weeping rivet but >> not some others with fuel. >> >> Clearly, the positive tank pressure test with just a balloon is not >> good enough to reveal all weeping rivets. >> >> Jae >> >> -------- >> #40533 RV-10 >> First flight 10/19/2011 >> Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366336#366336 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Date: Feb 15, 2012
You can get way too much negative pressure with a shop vac. I would suggest a water manometer for both positive and negative pressure as it is very controllable and sensitive enough to show leaks. I am currently patching a friends RV-9 tanks. Both were leaking from the root rib so the work could be done by removing the access cover. Several years ago we patched one leaky top rivet by cutting an access port in the back baffle so we could buck the leaky rivet. If it had been a bottom rivet I would have used a pop rivet and lots of proseal. I took a pic of a manometer setup for those of you that may not be familiar with this testing setup. Doesn't have to be fancy unless you do it a lot and don't want to jury rig time after time. Caution: it doesn't take much air to pressurize a tank: I think there are some tables floating around on the RV list showing how much difference in the water columns equates to pressure in psi. To get negative pressure just lower the open end of the tube instead of blowing air into the tank. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ PS: One of the problems I have currently encountered is uncured proseal. It looks like not enough care was taken when mixing the original application to ensure through mixing of the proseal. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks and green Loctite
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2012
I had a crack on the rib and skin of my gas tank. Of course I was worried that the area would leak and that I was totally screwed. I solved the problem by stop drilling the crack and using a Click Bond patch over the whole thing. The click bond guy at OSH said the glue was fuel proof and there would be no problems using that method as a fix. The crack was on the bottom of the tank and I have had no problems with it for over 3 years now. It seems to me that would be an easy way to fix a leaky rivet . Fairing in around the patch is necessary so this would work much better if the tank has not been painted, but if you're desperate..... Aircraft Spruce has them for 12.75. Sheldon Olesen N475 PV 355hrs Sent from my iPad On Feb 15, 2012, at 8:19 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > I wish I had read Jason Kreiders email (tried the green Loctite and failed) before I hit 'send'. > There must be some unknown (at this time) factor for those with success using the green Loctite ..... if there really are any. > > So, I pose the question ..... have any RVers fixed their leaking tanks with the green Loctite??? > > Linn > > > > On 2/15/2012 9:06 AM, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> There are reports of green Loctite filling small leaks in the fuel tanks. I don't know if it works or not since I haven't gone down that path yet. >> Negative pressure from a shop vac may help as well as 'cleaning' by using MEK or acetone. >> Linn >> >> >> On 2/15/2012 2:33 AM, jchang10 wrote: >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "jchang10" >>> >>> I have weeping top rivets, too. I did the leak testing with a ballon, etc. after building the tanks, and all checked out at the time. >>> >>> Recently, I tried squishing proseal with some negative pressure in the tank. It seemed to help some. I repeated the positive tank pressure test with soapy water which revealed one weeping rivet but not some others with fuel. >>> >>> Clearly, the positive tank pressure test with just a balloon is not good enough to reveal all weeping rivets. >>> >>> Jae >>> >>> -------- >>> #40533 RV-10 >>> First flight 10/19/2011 >>> Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366336#366336 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2012
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks and green Loctite
From: James McGrew <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu>
I fixed a single leaking rivet on the bottom of my right QB tank with green loctite. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=28361 I emptied the tank, cleaned the rivet (probably acetone and alcohol), and used positive external pressure (a ballon on a rubber hose) to push the green loctite in. It took a few hours and 2 tries to get it right. -Jim N312JE On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 9:19 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > I wish I had read Jason Kreiders email (tried the green Loctite and failed) > before I hit 'send'. > There must be some unknown (at this time) factor for those with success > using the green Loctite ..... if there really are any. > > So, I pose the question ..... have any RVers fixed their leaking tanks with > the green Loctite??? > > Linn > > > On 2/15/2012 9:06 AM, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> >> There are reports of green Loctite filling small leaks in the fuel tanks. >> I don't know if it works or not since I haven't gone down that path yet. >> Negative pressure from a shop vac may help as well as 'cleaning' by using >> MEK or acetone. >> Linn >> >> >> On 2/15/2012 2:33 AM, jchang10 wrote: >>> >>> >>> I have weeping top rivets, too. I did the leak testing with a ballon, >>> etc. after building the tanks, and all checked out at the time. >>> >>> Recently, I tried squishing proseal with some negative pressure in the >>> tank. It seemed to help some. I repeated the positive tank pressure test >>> with soapy water which revealed one weeping rivet but not some others with >>> fuel. >>> >>> Clearly, the positive tank pressure test with just a balloon is not good >>> enough to reveal all weeping rivets. >>> >>> Jae >>> >>> -------- >>> #40533 RV-10 >>> First flight 10/19/2011 >>> Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366336#366336 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2012
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
From: John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com>
I seldom hear anyone talk of "wet" riveting technique. It's great to hear of the success/failure rate of green loctite though. Makes me steer away from QB fuel cells. I also wonder about a few parts modifications to strengthen the "walk off" area. John 40600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Date: Feb 15, 2012
Since this has been an ongoing problem with RV-10's from the very beginning, I modified my tanks when building them to add a 0.025" doubler under the skin on the top of the tanks, between the inboard rib and the next rib outboard and running from the rear tank baffle to over the J-channel in the tank. This duplicates the doubler used in the wingwalk area (although there are not as many ribs in the tank) and just stiffens the area up quite a bit. People still should not walk on this area, but feces occurs. I ran the idea past Van's and got their OK on it, which surprised me. Joe Blank at Van's said ".As far as your RV-10 fuel tank leak prevention, I think that your thoughts are in the right direction. Tieing the inboard top stiffeners and J-Channel into both the inboard tank rib and the next one out would be a good way to further reinforce the structure in case that area see's some foot traffic (which is typical). It just happens... I think I would use some sort of doublers to accomplish this task." Of course, mine is not flying yet (and won't for several years at the rate I'm working on it), but it seems to make sense. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (Flaps) Raleigh, NC _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 4:31 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Leaking tanks I seldom hear anyone talk of "wet" riveting technique. It's great to hear of the success/failure rate of green loctite though. Makes me steer away from QB fuel cells. I also wonder about a few parts modifications to strengthen the "walk off" area. John 40600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
Both some strengthening in the wing root area, and some additional sealant steps are needed. I have done a couple Mooney tanks, and they require application of B-2 compound to do all the rib and spar joints, followed by A-2 compound which is thinner and brushable over all of the rivet shop heads and over all the B-2 compound, followed by brushed on sloshing compound (aka cherry juice). This is not the crud Vans used to recommend, but Proseal PR-1005 or Flamemaster CS3600, which is tougher than the Proseal, and protects the Proseal from alcohol and aromatics as well as sealing pinholes. It is tougher to remove than Proseal. Vans one step Proseal method in my opinion is not adequate to assure leak free in high percentage of tanks. On 2/15/2012 2:31 PM, John Cox wrote: > > I seldom hear anyone talk of "wet" riveting technique. It's great to > hear of the success/failure rate of green loctite though. > > Makes me steer away from QB fuel cells. I also wonder about a few > parts modifications to strengthen the "walk off" area. > > John 40600 > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Aircraft Specialty
Date: Feb 15, 2012
After reading this post on the List I ordered a hose from Steve. He knew that my plane was grounded needing the hose so he made it up Sunday night, shipped it Priority Mail Monday morning and I got it today. It's on and the plane is running. Thanks Steve, that's what I call service. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven T Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 9:10 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Specialty Good evening everyone. My name is Steve, and I am an RV builder in Wisconsin. We just finished an RV-10, and previously I have completed a Challenger Amphib and about half a Murphy Moose. I have been involved in different aspects of aviation for my entire life, and have a passion for working on airplanes. It was only natural that my passion would eventually turn into a business, and I am now officially announcing the start of Aircraft Specialty LLC. We are working toward being a one stop shop for all your aviation needs. Right now we carry multiple product lines including: Sioux Tools, Lightspeed Headsets, Clecos and Accessories, and Tungsten Bucking Bars. In addition, we do custom hydraulic hose assemblies (with an online calculator for automatic price quoting.), and are going to be adding a full CNC machine shop in the next several months. Our website is www.aircraftspecialty.com <http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/> I'd love it if you would take a look and feel free to forward suggestions and comments on what product lines you would be interested in seeing in the future. Also, please feel free to let your friends know about our site. I understand the value of customer service, and feel that it will help differentiate us. My goal is to make sure all of our customers are 110% satisfied, and I will do whatever it takes to make sure that you are. Thanks again, and I look forward to doing business with you in the future. Sincerely, Steve Aircraft Specialty LLC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2012
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: Landing Lights
EAA Chapter 329 had a presentation by Howard Olson of Kestrel-Air last night focusing upon lighting. He showed several models from Aveo using LEDs that appeared to be superior in brightness to competing models. Of particular interest was the landing lights which incorporated landing, taxi and wig-wag modes in one unit. They would seem to be a better choice than HID lights. Anyone have experience with them? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA Wings ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2012
From: Traville Houston <travilleh(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Landing Lights
DO NOT use Aveo for your lighting needs, they are over priced and the compa ny completely mis represented the placement and application of the 6 in 1 s ystem they offered for the rv-10. IT DOES NOT FIT IN THE WINGTIP!!!. T.S. H.=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Dave Fritzsche (Buildi ng) =0ATo: RV-10 Matronics =0ASent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 12:29 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Landing =0A=0AEAA Chapter 329 had a presentation by Howard Ols on of Kestrel-Air last night focusing upon lighting.- He showed several m odels from Aveo using LEDs that appeared to be superior in brightness to co mpeting models.- Of particular interest was the landing lights which inco rporated landing, taxi and wig-wag modes in one unit.- They would seem to be a better choice than HID lights.- Anyone have experience with them? =0A=0ADave=0A=0A-- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=0ADave Fritzsche=0A40813=0APuyallup, WA = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Aircraft Specialty
Date: Feb 16, 2012
There's nothing on the website to indicate a phone number or where in WI he is. Anyone know? Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 8:29 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Specialty After reading this post on the List I ordered a hose from Steve. He knew th at my plane was grounded needing the hose so he made it up Sunday night, sh ipped it Priority Mail Monday morning and I got it today. It's on and the p lane is running. Thanks Steve, that's what I call service. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven T Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 9:10 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Specialty Good evening everyone. My name is Steve, and I am an RV builder in Wiscons in. We just finished an RV-10, and previously I have completed a Challenge r Amphib and about half a Murphy Moose. I have been involved in different aspects of aviation for my entire life, and have a passion for working on a irplanes. It was only natural that my passion would eventually turn into a business, and I am now officially announcing the start of Aircraft Special ty LLC. We are working toward being a one stop shop for all your aviation needs. Right now we carry multiple product lines including: Sioux Tools, L ightspeed Headsets, Clecos and Accessories, and Tungsten Bucking Bars. In addition, we do custom hydraulic hose assemblies (with an online calculator for automatic price quoting.), and are going to be adding a full CNC machi ne shop in the next several months. Our website is www.aircraftspecialty.com<http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/> I'd love it if you would take a look and feel free to forward suggestions a nd comments on what product lines you would be interested in seeing in the future. Also, please feel free to let your friends know about our site. I understand the value of customer service, and feel that it will help diffe rentiate us. My goal is to make sure all of our customers are 110% satisfi ed, and I will do whatever it takes to make sure that you are. Thanks again, and I look forward to doing business with you in the future. Sincerely, Steve Aircraft Specialty LLC [Description: Image removed by sender.] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Aircraft Specialty
Date: Feb 16, 2012
My hose was shipped from: 1239 Victoria Lane Oconomowoc, WI 53066 Albert Gardner From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 1:33 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Specialty There's nothing on the website to indicate a phone number or where in WI he is. Anyone know? Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Aircraft Specialty
Date: Feb 16, 2012
Ah, Milwaukee. Thanks Al, mainly curious if there was another builder up b y me that I wasn't aware of. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 3:54 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Specialty My hose was shipped from: 1239 Victoria Lane Oconomowoc, WI 53066 Albert Gardner From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Saus en) Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 1:33 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Specialty There's nothing on the website to indicate a phone number or where in WI he is. Anyone know? Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2012
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo
Just got my renewal on my rv10, Same terms as last year, went down $405.Fal con insurance/ global. So it looks like they see the RV10 as a good aircraf t. ATP w/8k TT and 400 in rv10 Patrick Thyssen N15PT --- On Thu, 1/26/12, Tim Olson wrote: From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 insurance vs. Lamborghini Gallardo Date: Thursday, January 26, 2012, 2:40 PM I got my insurance renewal quote today, after over 800 hours of flight time in my RV-10, and an instrument rating. It's great to see that competition is alive in the insurance market again.- From the sounds of it, AIG is back in, going after the RV pilots with high time in make/model, WITH an instrument rating, and courting them with low rates.- My Global quote stayed the same this year at about $2710. My AIG quote ran $2248.- I thought it was a no-brainer, even though in some ways Global covers a bit more things than AIG....I'd have to ditch Global for AIG.- But, Jenny Estes at NationAir helped and took it one step further and asked Global if they could get close to that rate...and Global came back with $2275.- So, they saved me as a customer this year again. This means that in 6 years, and 800+ hours, my rate has now dropped from $3440 or so, to $2275....keeping the hull value the same every year. Hope you all are seeing similar drops.- I guess the moral is, pay the piper and build time...and definitely get that instrument rating, and over time you should see your flying pay back a little in terms of rates. Oh, BTW....I was wondering how an RV-10 compared to an expensive sports car, such as a Lamborghini Gallardo. I figured some of those cars have high "hull values" so they may make a good comparison to RV-10 insurance. Turns out that we make out pretty well.- One forum I trolled to find quotes said that The Lamborghini would cost about $2300/mo.- So, we look pretty good compared to that market. Tim le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV builder
From: dapb37(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 2012
One at Poplar Grove, Illinois also C77 Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RunwayFinder
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 17, 2012
I love runway finder. It's such a great quick and easy to use tool. I wish he could find a way to keep it open, I'd be willing to pay a subscription. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366512#366512 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2012
Roughen any mating surfaces/clean well with mek. I used almost two qts of proseal from ACS. Allowed two days to cure. Used one pint of PR-1005-L Buna-N sealant on prosealed joints. Every rivet installed wet. Allowed two more days to cure. Pressurized to one psi using digital manometer. Most balloons do not produce enough pressure when fully inflated. They range between .25-.75 psi. Pressure held for two days. Also checked all external joints, rivets, fittings and caps with leak detection fluid used for refrigerant/natural gas leaks. No peeling of Buna-N or leaks so far. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366532#366532 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2012
Subject: Re: Leaking tanks
From: John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com>
Wayne, that is the first comprehensive narrative of doing it right. Nicely done! The best of luck well into the future. Sometimes the shotcuts produce marginal results. John 40600 On Feb 18, 2012 7:05 AM, "rv10flyer" wrote: > > Roughen any mating surfaces/clean well with mek. I used almost two qts of > proseal from ACS. Allowed two days to cure. Used one pint of PR-1005-L > Buna-N sealant on prosealed joints. Every rivet installed wet. Allowed two > more days to cure. Pressurized to one psi using digital manometer. Most > balloons do not produce enough pressure when fully inflated. They range > between .25-.75 psi. Pressure held for two days. Also checked all external > joints, rivets, fittings and caps with leak detection fluid used for > refrigerant/natural gas leaks. No peeling of Buna-N or leaks so far. > > -------- > Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 > 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 > N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 29 hrs. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366532#366532 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Lights
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2012
My lighting has evolved a bit since I finished my airplane. I started out with the stock Van's 75 watt halogen landing lights and the standard Whelen nav/strobe package from Van's. A couple of years ago I replaced the red and green nav lights with plug in LED replacement bulbs from http://www.psaenterprises.com/ I replaced the green and red lenses with clear lenses at that time. The bulbs have been great and amp draw went from around 3.0-3.5 per side to 0.1 per side. The Van's landing lights have been marginal at night, as most have noted. A couple of weeks ago my right landing light bulb burned out. I have been following LED and HID options for quite a while, and decided to install the 35 watt HID drop in replacements for the MR-16 bulb from Planelights at http://pl.infochi.net/? The kit showed up and the quality of the wiring harnesses was excellent with moisture proof connectors. It took me about 15 minutes to install each ballast on the end rib and to crimp a couple of new connectors on the ships wiring to match the Planelights harness. I also ovaled out the inboard side of the landing light hole a bit as others had suggested. The idea was to get a little more light angled in front of the airplane. That night I went to the hangar and turned on the lights with the new HID in the right side and the old halogen in the left side. The difference was astounding. I went ahead and installed the left light a couple of days later. I had my first night flight Thursday night and I have to say I am delighted. Plenty of light to taxi and with some dumb luck, I seem to have them aimed correctly for landing right off the bat. The old halogen bulbs drew around 6.5 -6.7 amps each and the HID's are drawing 3.0-3.2 amps per side. They wig-wag just fine and the tower here told me they were extremely bright. He said "you look like a 777 out there!" I was not interested in cutting holes in my wings to install Duckworks at this stage of the game. However, if I was building, I might go ahead and install the Duckworks. Steve, at Planelights was great to work with. The 35 watt kit was $240 and Steve threw in free shipping. Sorry I did not get any photo's, but I just wanted to throw in this datapoint. An excellent product at a decent price and good customer service. I am a happy camper at this point. :D -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Transition Trainer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366551#366551 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ram Air Boost?
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Feb 19, 2012
Just out of curiosity, has anyone else noticed getting any kind of ram air boost in MAP? I am stock plans, engine, etc. Specifically, i notice a little boost when pitching over to start a descent from cruise. I noticed this a few times now where I am cruising along at 22" x 2200 rpm or so at 3,000ft and 145 to 150 KIAS. Shortly after pitching over a bit and having only lost 500ft of altitude but now showing 160 KIAS, i will notice i am running oversquared at 24" x 2200 rpm for instance. How did i gain 2 inches all of a sudden? I wonder if the MAP reading is accurate? The plane doesn't know it's pitched down per se, so is there something special about 160 KIAS? Sanity check? Jae -------- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366580#366580 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air Boost?
I know nothing about ram air, MAP, etc, but intuition has me believing that this is as it should be. That we do have a ram air inlet, that a forward facing inlet gives us a positive boost in MAP at all speeds, and that if all things are equal, a 10 knot increase in speed would result in some increase in MAP. The pitch angle is not really involved, it's just speed. But I don't have a clue.... "Curious" Bill > --> RV10-List message posted by: "jchang10" > > Just out of curiosity, has anyone else noticed getting any kind of ram air boost in MAP? I am stock plans, engine, etc. > > Specifically, i notice a little boost when pitching over to start a descent from cruise. I noticed this a few times now where I am cruising along at 22" x 2200 rpm or so at 3,000ft and 145 to 150 KIAS. Shortly after pitching over a bit and having only lost 500ft of altitude but now showing 160 KIAS, i will notice i am running oversquared at 24" x 2200 rpm for instance. How did i gain 2 inches all of a sudden? > > I wonder if the MAP reading is accurate? The plane doesn't know it's pitched down per se, so is there something special about 160 KIAS? Sanity check? > > Jae > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2012
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air Boost?
I think if you monitored the MP closely/continuously, you would see that pa rt of the increase is due to altitude change, and part is due to increased airspeed.- I continually reduce my MP on decent,,, usually maintaining so mewhere between 18 and 19".=0ADon=0A =0A=0A________________________________ =0A From: jchang10 <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics. com =0ASent: Sunday, February 19, 2012 2:45 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Ram Ai v10(at)jline.com>=0A=0AJust out of curiosity, has anyone else noticed getting any kind of ram air boost in MAP? I am stock plans, engine, etc.=0A=0ASpeci fically, i notice a little boost when pitching over to start a descent from cruise. I noticed this a few times now where I am cruising along at 22" x 2200 rpm or so at 3,000ft and 145 to 150 KIAS. Shortly after pitching over a bit and having only lost 500ft of altitude but now showing 160 KIAS, i wi ll notice i am running oversquared at 24" x 2200 rpm for instance. How did i gain 2 inches all of a sudden?=0A=0AI wonder if the MAP reading is accura te? The plane doesn't know it's pitched down per se, so is there something special about 160 KIAS? Sanity check?=0A=0AJae=0A=0A--------=0A#40533 RV-10 =0AFirst flight 10/19/2011=0APhase 1 Done 11/26/2011=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead thi s topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366 ======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ram Air Boost?
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 19, 2012
I'll have to check that out next time we go up. The decrease in angle of attack exposes a slightly larger engine air inlet area. Then you have the airspeed increase, altitude decrease, propeller pitch increase that will also raise MP. When I begin descent I slowly pull power back to maintain cruise airspeed and leave mixture alone until I get down close to pattern altitude. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 31 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366620#366620 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: wheels and brakes
Date: Feb 19, 2012
This is uneconomic for flying aircraft but I believe MATCO also makes a comparable wheel/brake to replace the Cleveland mains. Considering the cost of the brake linings of either RAPCO or Cleveland 066-11200, perhaps Matco alternate wheels/brakes for the mains ought to be considered before ordering the Cleveland's from Vans. New builders will need to exchange the Matco nose wheel with Matco directly to get the correct one that provides adequate valve stem clearance and also the appropriate axle for the 10 nose wheel. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wheels and brakes
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Feb 19, 2012
On the other hand, if you're stuck somewhere on the ground in need of parts, it may be easier to get parts for something that is stocked in many shops, o r available from multiple sources. And in the case of brake pads, they're n ow made by two separate companies which is nice in these uncertain times. I like the stuff Matco sells, but I want to know that in 15 years I can still get parts. No argument, just showing another side of the coin. Tim On Feb 19, 2012, at 2:12 PM, "DLM" wrote: > This is uneconomic for flying aircraft but I believe MATCO also makes a co mparable wheel/brake to replace the Cleveland mains. Considering the cost of the brake linings of either RAPCO or Cleveland 066-11200, perhaps Matco alt ernate wheels/brakes for the mains ought to be considered before ordering th e Cleveland=99s from Vans. New builders will need to exchange the Matc o nose wheel with Matco directly to get the correct one that provides adequa te valve stem clearance and also the appropriate axle for the 10 nose wheel. > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2012
Subject: Garmin 300XL NAV/COM
From: John Dunne <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Looking for some suggestions from anyone who may recognise this problem. Yesterday after making a missed GPS approach, I noticed the 300XL screen starting to go blank. Couldn't read anything worthwhile. Turned the unit off for a few minutes or so and then powered up again...very faint but readable. The unit was still working but I couldn't see enough to change frequencies etc... Back home and in the hangar unit worked fine. Is this a heat issue or something else? hasn't happened before and yesterday wasn't the hottest it has operated in. Garmin info says not compulsory to have ducted cooling to the unit but a very good idea. I don't have a cooling fan behind the avionics stack. ambient temps were in the low 90F's. Does anyone recognise the symptoms here? John 40315 * * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: Garmin 300XL NAV/COM
Date: Feb 19, 2012
I had a 300XL in my Cessna here in Arizona for 5 years and it sat outside 3 of those years I never had any problems due to heat. Date: Mon=2C 20 Feb 2012 07:14:20 +1000 Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 300XL NAV/COM From: acs(at)acspropeller.com.au Looking for some suggestions from anyone who may recognise this problem. Yesterday after making a missed GPS approach=2C I noticed the 300XL screen starting to go blank.Couldn't read anything worthwhile. Turned the unit off for a few minutes or so and then powered up again...ver y faint but readable. The unit was still working but I couldn't see enough to change frequencies etc...Back home and in the hangar unit worked fine. Is this a heat issue or something else? hasn't happened before and yesterda y wasn't the hottest it has operated in. Garmin info says not compulsory to have ducted cooling to the unit but a ve ry good idea.I don't have a cooling fan behind the avionics stack. ambient temps were in the low 90F's. Does anyone recognise the symptoms here? John 40315 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 300XL NAV/COM
From: Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Feb 19, 2012
The unit I had my Maule was dim and slow when very cold... Doesnt apply to y ou. I also had some water that would get into the stack and that caused the unit to not come on at first.. And then start up dim. This only happened when p arked outside overnight AND if there had been rain or heavy condensate. I'd roll the plane into the sun and wait 30 mins. Then power up and go. Bill Sent from my iPad On Feb 19, 2012, at 4:14 PM, John Dunne wrote: > Looking for some suggestions from anyone who may recognise this problem. > Yesterday after making a missed GPS approach, I noticed the 300XL screen s tarting to go blank. > Couldn't read anything worthwhile. > Turned the unit off for a few minutes or so and then powered up again...ve ry faint but readable. > The unit was still working but I couldn't see enough to change frequencies etc... > Back home and in the hangar unit worked fine. > Is this a heat issue or something else? hasn't happened before and yesterd ay wasn't the hottest it has operated in. > Garmin info says not compulsory to have ducted cooling to the unit but a v ery good idea. > I don't have a cooling fan behind the avionics stack. > ambient temps were in the low 90F's. > Does anyone recognise the symptoms here? > > John 40315 > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 300XL NAV/COM
From: Wayne <wmillson1(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 20, 2012
Mine did a very similar thing last summer. After about an hour it would go blank and then when it cooled off it would restart. Also the comm would become unserviceable. I bought a C-fan and installed it and it did no good. I pulled the unit and took it to my avionics shop and they said it was a power supply issue and it had to go back to Garmin. I paid their flat rate it came back working fine, I'm not sure but I think it has a new display. Wayne Millson 53 hours and loving it! Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 20, 2012
Subject: Re: wheels and brakes
I just went through a little issue with a leaking Cleveland wheel cylinder. It had some scratches in the bore that were deep enough to allow a little seep past the o-ring. Fluid never hit the floor but it did collect on the bottom of the cylinder between services. I tried a couple times to polish the bore without success. So I looked into replacing the cylinder and found it had a six week lead time and cost about $300. Grove sells wheels, brakes, and cylinders for the 10 for about $900, and has them in stock. I considered getting the Grove parts just to get flying again. In the end I got serious about polishing out the scratches and spent a couple hours with a buffing wheel on a Dremel and was able to make the thing seal. But only because the alternative was pretty painful. If I had it to do again I think I'd get the Grove or Matco wheels and brakes. In the 15-year scenario, you might be able to repair or modify them easier than Clevelands. --Dave Saylor On Sun, Feb 19, 2012 at 12:12 PM, DLM wrote: > ** ** > > This is uneconomic for flying aircraft but I believe MATCO also makes a > comparable wheel/brake to replace the ****Cleveland**** mains. > Considering the cost of the brake linings of either RAPCO or Cleveland > 066-11200, perhaps Matco alternate wheels/brakes for the mains ought to b e > considered before ordering the ****Cleveland****=99s from Vans. New > builders will need to exchange the Matco nose wheel with Matco directly t o > get the correct one that provides adequate valve stem clearance and also > the appropriate axle for the 10 nose wheel.**** > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ram Air Boost?
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Feb 20, 2012
I generally try to do the same. I am a bit of a speed addict, so sometimes i just push over first, let speed increase a bit then adjust the descent speed with power. It is generally right after the push over that i notice the gain in MAP. Jae rv10flyer wrote: > I'll have to check that out next time we go up. > > The decrease in angle of attack exposes a slightly larger engine air inlet area. Then you have the airspeed increase, altitude decrease, propeller pitch increase that will also raise MP. > > When I begin descent I slowly pull power back to maintain cruise airspeed and leave mixture alone until I get down close to pattern altitude. -------- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366723#366723 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2012
Subject: Re: wheels and brakes
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
That would be quite a cost savings if the Clevelands were deleted from the finish kit. They list for around $2300 for the pair. On Mon, Feb 20, 2012 at 8:37 AM, Dave Saylor wrote: > I just went through a little issue with a leaking Cleveland wheel cylinder. > It had some scratches in the bore that were deep enough to allow a little > seep past the o-ring. Fluid never hit the floor but it did collect on the > bottom of the cylinder between services. > > I tried a couple times to polish the bore without success. So I looked into > replacing the cylinder and found it had a six week lead time and cost about > $300. > > Grove sells wheels, brakes, and cylinders for the 10 for about $900, and has > them in stock. I considered getting the Grove parts just to get flying > again. In the end I got serious about polishing out the scratches and spent > a couple hours with a buffing wheel on a Dremel and was able to make the > thing seal. But only because the alternative was pretty painful. > > If I had it to do again I think I'd get the Grove or Matco wheels and > brakes. In the 15-year scenario, you might be able to repair or modify them > easier than Clevelands. > > --Dave Saylor > > > On Sun, Feb 19, 2012 at 12:12 PM, DLM wrote: >> >> This is uneconomic for flying aircraft but I believe MATCO also makes a >> comparable wheel/brake to replace the Cleveland mains. Considering the cost >> of the brake linings of either RAPCO or Cleveland 066-11200, perhaps Matco >> alternate wheels/brakes for the mains ought to be considered before ordering >> the Clevelands from Vans. New builders will need to exchange the Matco nose >> wheel with Matco directly to get the correct one that provides adequate >> valve stem clearance and also the appropriate axle for the 10 nose wheel. >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Subject: Re: Garmin 300XL NAV/COM
From: John Dunne <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Thanks Wayne, and others suggestions as well. This seems like a power supply issue as you've suggested. I have been chasing intermittent problems with my comm as well and also recently a problem with my Tru Trak A/P. Tru Trak suggested it didn't seem like an A/P problem but may have been corrupted signal from the Garmin somehow. Like all things Murphys Law in aviation, it could only only happen at the worst possible time (during an approach) so I've pulled the unit and set it away for a check-up. (I've also installed a cooling fan in preparation for the units return just in case) John 40315 On Mon, Feb 20, 2012 at 11:54 PM, Wayne wrote: > > Mine did a very similar thing last summer. After about an hour it would > go blank and then when it cooled off it would restart. Also the comm would > become unserviceable. I bought a C-fan and installed it and it did no > good. I pulled the unit and took it to my avionics shop and they said it > was a power supply issue and it had to go back to Garmin. I paid their > flat rate it came back working fine, I'm not sure but I think it has a new > display. > > Wayne Millson > > 53 hours and loving it! > > Sent from my iPad > > -- * * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: maintenance profile
Date: Feb 20, 2012
Anyone have any numbers yet on time between main tire replacement and brake lining replacement? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Subject: Re: maintenance profile
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
I replaced Brake Pads on the first annual and reversed the main tires (200 Landings). We have just replaced the main tires (200 additional landings (approx 350 hours total). Brakes pads still good. We are using the brakes less and getting better life out of the pads. Tires would last longer if Vans had changed the tire camber on the wheels. Wearing the outside of the main tires seems like something they would have an interest in fixing. Jim Combs N312F - 350+ Hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: maintenance profile
Date: Feb 21, 2012
I made around 275 hrs. on brakes, but one pad was just barely serviceable, wont go that long again. My tires are still good at 308 hrs. My new landing procedure will be to roll out more, save some brakes. Thane States N321BY RV-10 ----- Original Message ----- From: DLM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 9:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: maintenance profile Anyone have any numbers yet on time between main tire replacement and brake lining replacement? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: maintenance profile
I had the same situation on my old Maule, that is, the tires would wear on the outside and would require flipping to get full wear. I assumed it was because when the gear was unloaded, the gear legs would swing inward somewhat. On landing, the outside of tires would contact the runway first. That's when then would spin up from 0 to 50, and it's also when any misalignment would be 'scrubbed off'. I figured it was when the most wear was put on the tires. Is this what may be happening with our '10s? BTW, thanks for the maintenance profile question and the feedback - good stuff. Bill Watson > > We are using the brakes less and getting better life out of the pads. > Tires would last longer if Vans had changed the tire camber on the > wheels. Wearing the outside of the main tires seems like something > they would have an interest in fixing. > > Jim Combs > N312F - 350+ Hours > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: maintenance profile
Date: Feb 21, 2012
My RV-4 does the same thing, as did my Cessna 140. This is simply a characteristic of spring type landing gear. They are designed for the wheels to have proper camber when carrying the weight of the airplane. As Bill pointed out, the maximum wear occurs when they are pretty much unloaded. If the gear were designed for the tires to touch down level, when the gear was loaded with the airplane's weight they would be wrong and the plane would be difficult to control on the ground. If you want to have it both ways, you need gear like my Pietenpol has: Jack Phillips #40610 Wings (Flaps) Raleigh, NC _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 9:12 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: maintenance profile I had the same situation on my old Maule, that is, the tires would wear on the outside and would require flipping to get full wear. I assumed it was because when the gear was unloaded, the gear legs would swing inward somewhat. On landing, the outside of tires would contact the runway first. That's when then would spin up from 0 to 50, and it's also when any misalignment would be 'scrubbed off'. I figured it was when the most wear was put on the tires. Is this what may be happening with our '10s? BTW, thanks for the maintenance profile question and the feedback - good stuff. Bill Watson We are using the brakes less and getting better life out of the pads. Tires would last longer if Vans had changed the tire camber on the wheels. Wearing the outside of the main tires seems like something they would have an interest in fixing. Jim Combs N312F - 350+ Hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: wing prep for AoA
Date: Feb 21, 2012
One last question before I'm ready for the bottom skins. I've got all wiring done except whatever is needed for the Angle of Attack. The instructions state to route 2 pressure tubes (what kind of pressure tubes does this refer to). Also, is there room in Vans 3/4" conduit with all the wires to run these in conduit? If not, how have those that have done this routed the tubing? Also, it states to install in the outboard bay. This is where my Duckworks lights will be. Will this interfere with the AoA. Does it matter which wing the AoA is in. The left wing is getting a little crowded--would it be fine in the right wing? If I install it in the right wing, would the second bay from the end work (keeps it away from the Duckworks)? Thanks, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Subject: Re: wing prep for AoA
From: Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com>
Depends on which AOA system you're using. If the AFS system, the tubing is 1/8" tygon so it's two runs of that. Which wing probably doesn't matter but there is very specific info about exact placement of the top and bottom ports. I'm sure you can find the install docs on the AFS website with the details. Sorry, don't remember off the top of my head if it's the outboard or next bay inboard from that but it's easily accessible after the skins are on for install. Bob On Tue, Feb 21, 2012 at 9:58 AM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: > ** > One last question before I'm ready for the bottom skins. I've got all > wiring done except whatever is needed for the Angle of Attack. The > instructions state to route 2 pressure tubes (what kind of pressure tubes > does this refer to). Also, is there room in Vans 3/4" conduit with all the > wires to run these in conduit? If not, how have those that have done this > routed the tubing? Also, it states to install in the outboard bay. This > is where my Duckworks lights will be. Will this interfere with the AoA. > Does it matter which wing the AoA is in. The left wing is getting a little > crowded--would it be fine in the right wing? If I install it in the right > wing, would the second bay from the end work (keeps it away from the > Duckworks)? > > > Thanks, > Bill > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wing prep for AoA
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 21, 2012
I have duck works and the aoa in the first bay right wing. Aoa sits inside o f duck towards fuselage, so no interference. The tubes come with the Aoa s o I would buy that part of the aoa and run the tubes now. they sell kit in t wo parts. I guess I should ask that you are putting in advance flight system? Patrick Thyssen N15Pt Sent from my iPad On Feb 21, 2012, at 9:58 AM, "Billy & Tami Britton" wrote : > One last question before I'm ready for the bottom skins. I've got all wir ing done except whatever is needed for the Angle of Attack. The instruction s state to route 2 pressure tubes (what kind of pressure tubes does this ref er to). Also, is there room in Vans 3/4" conduit with all the wires to run t hese in conduit? If not, how have those that have done this routed the tubi ng? Also, it states to install in the outboard bay. This is where my Duckw orks lights will be. Will this interfere with the AoA. Does it matter whic h wing the AoA is in. The left wing is getting a little crowded--would it b e fine in the right wing? If I install it in the right wing, would the seco nd bay from the end work (keeps it away from the Duckworks)? > > > > Thanks, > Bill > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: wing prep for AoA
Bill ; The AOA tubes are small flexible plastic tubes. You should have enough room in the conduit for all the wires and the tubes. You probably will have enough room to mount the light and the tubes in the same bay. It makes it much easier to service when pulling off the wingtip. I would probably still mount it in the left wing as the tubes need to end up on that side ( the side with your main EFIS) screen. I do not see any theoretical difference to which wing the AOA is on . It still is just a differential pressure sensor. It just will make it harder to route the tubing all the way across the back of the panel. The less stuff you have crossing behind the panel, the better. Dr Fred 515FW On 2/21/2012 9:58 AM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: > One last question before I'm ready for the bottom skins. I've got all > wiring done except whatever is needed for the Angle of Attack. The > instructions state to route 2 pressure tubes (what kind of pressure > tubes does this refer to). Also, is there room in Vans 3/4" conduit > with all the wires to run these in conduit? If not, how have those > that have done this routed the tubing? Also, it states to install in > the outboard bay. This is where my Duckworks lights will be. Will > this interfere with the AoA. Does it matter which wing the AoA is > in. The left wing is getting a little crowded--would it be fine in > the right wing? If I install it in the right wing, would the second > bay from the end work (keeps it away from the Duckworks)? > Thanks, > Bill > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: wing prep for AoA
Date: Feb 21, 2012
The doc is correct. It makes no diff which wing. If you are in doubt about w hich bay, call Rob, assuming its an AF AOA. He came out and helped me with m ine when it was clear I couldn't locate the holes where recommended for Glas tars. I'm sure if you are one bay off it won't matter, just as long as you s tay well within the aileron segment of the wing. ... by phone On Feb 21, 2012, at 10:43 AM, "Fred Williams, M.D." wrote: > Bill ; > > The AOA tubes are small flexible plastic tubes. You should have enough r oom in the conduit for all the wires and the tubes. You probably will have e nough room to mount the light and the tubes in the same bay. It makes it mu ch easier to service when pulling off the wingtip. I would probably still m ount it in the left wing as the tubes need to end up on that side ( the side with your main EFIS) screen. I do not see any theoretical difference to wh ich wing the AOA is on . It still is just a differential pressure sensor. I t just will make it harder to route the tubing all the way across the back o f the panel. The less stuff you have crossing behind the panel, the better. > > Dr Fred > 515FW > > > On 2/21/2012 9:58 AM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: >> >> One last question before I'm ready for the bottom skins. I've got all wi ring done except whatever is needed for the Angle of Attack. The instructio ns state to route 2 pressure tubes (what kind of pressure tubes does this re fer to). Also, is there room in Vans 3/4" conduit with all the wires to run these in conduit? If not, how have those that have done this routed the tu bing? Also, it states to install in the outboard bay. This is where my Duc kworks lights will be. Will this interfere with the AoA. Does it matter wh ich wing the AoA is in. The left wing is getting a little crowded--would it be fine in the right wing? If I install it in the right wing, would the se cond bay from the end work (keeps it away from the Duckworks)? >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> Bill >> >> >> > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: maintenance profile
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Feb 21, 2012
So....is anyone removing their tires before the wear is too extreme, and flipping them 180 degrees? Or keeping the orientation the same and moving from left to right side? So the worn part is now on the inside. Bob -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366877#366877 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Door latches
Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website they sure look nice. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: maintenance profile
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Definitely. It always wear on the outboard side of the tire, so you get almost double life if you flip them. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Feb 21, 2012, at 3:24 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > So....is anyone removing their tires before the wear is too extreme, and flipping them 180 degrees? Or keeping the orientation the same and moving from left to right side? So the worn part is now on the inside. > > Bob > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366877#366877 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Subject: Re: Door latches
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I believe they are supplier of main item in the IFlyRV10 handle kit. If I had it to do over, I would not do the flush handles, as much as I like the concept and appearance. Too much force needed at poor leverage angles. Also greatly complicates installing Sean's 3rd latch system, which IMHO should be mandatory. On Tue, Feb 21, 2012 at 1:29 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote: > Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website they > sure look nice. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: maintenance profile
I wait until there is no groove on the outside tread groove...then flip it on the rim and use the other side of the tire. Even when there's a lot of wear there, it works out ok because you just don't use the inside of the tire much at all. Tim On 2/21/2012 2:24 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob > Turner" > > So....is anyone removing their tires before the wear is too extreme, > and flipping them 180 degrees? Or keeping the orientation the same > and moving from left to right side? So the worn part is now on the > inside. > > Bob > > -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: Door latches
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Www.painttheweb.com/rv-10 They work great but u have other choices too. My Hendricks latches took a b it of modifying and some other flush handles not as much. Sorry doing this from cell at airport. Robin Sent from my Galaxy Nexus Bruce Johnson wrote: Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website they sure look nice. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: Door latches
Date: Feb 21, 2012
We had zero issues installing Sean's latches with the Hendricks flush door latch after the face. Both work well for us. Robin Sent from my Galaxy Nexus Kelly McMullen wrote: I believe they are supplier of main item in the IFlyRV10 handle kit. If I had it to do over, I would not do the flush handles, as much as I like the concept and appearance. Too much force needed at poor leverage angles. Also greatly complicates installing Sean's 3rd latch system, which IMHO should be mandatory. On Tue, Feb 21, 2012 at 1:29 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote: > Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website they > sure look nice. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door latches
From: "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2012
I installed the iflyrv10 handles and later Sean's 3rd. Latch. I had no troubles installing Sean's latch after the fact and both are working perfectly so far. In almost two years and 260 hours of flying both of these after market products are performing at or above expectations. I too agree that Sean's latch should be mandatory. If I was to build another -10 would I use these products again? Absolutely! -------- Ivan K. www.ivankristensen.com Builder # 40838 Flying (90 hrs.) C-GMDV Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366894#366894 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans
and it's a lot better than the ones shipped with the kit. I lost a fairing on an early flight. After constructing a replacement that didn't turn out real well, I reluctantly ordered a replacement. The original part shipped with the kit was of low quality and required a fair amount of work to finish properly. They appear to have improved significantly. In retrospect, I would have still ordered an aftermarket set if I had known better. But the current crop of fairings are better than they were. Now that the exterior finish is decent, I'm wondering if 2 layers of cloth still need to be added. Bill Watson 40605 flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Hey Bill "needing some clarification" Watson, Just checkin' ... upper intersection is horizontal/vertical stab? upper leg pants to fuse? Later, - Lew "crankin' out the paint" Gallagher -----Original Message----- From: Bill Watson Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Door latches
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Bruce, I used the Hendricks latches on my =9310. I am really please with how they work, look and feel. I did my my own internal handles though and discarded the ones that came with the latches. Also you need to make your own internal push-rods to drive the door pins from the latches, that=99s not part of the latch kit. Additionally, I used the rivet-head receiver blocks in the door jambs. I think those are critical to ensure the door latches properly. For details, visit my picasa site on =9Cdoors, latches and seals=9D https://picasaweb.google.com/aviator1964/DoorsLatchesSeals?authuser=0&f eat=directlink Bob Newman N541RV. flying From: Bruce Johnson Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 3:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door latches Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website they sure look nice. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Covering rivet heads on fiberglass
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Are most of you laying a thin layer if fiberglass cloth over the rivet lines in the fiberglass cowling, gear leg fairings, etc to keep the rivets from popping the paint? Thanks -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Covering rivet heads on fiberglass
Date: Feb 21, 2012
Hey Mike, Quick answer: yes. Later, - Lew -----Original Message----- From: Michael Kraus Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 8:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Covering rivet heads on fiberglass Are most of you laying a thin layer if fiberglass cloth over the rivet lines in the fiberglass cowling, gear leg fairings, etc to keep the rivets from popping the paint? Thanks -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Subject: Re: Door latches
Date: Feb 22, 2012
Kelly, I bought a hendricks door handle originally, but found that at 1 3/8 thick, it was bigger (thicker) than I wanted. I redesigned the handle and pitched the idea to hendricks to make us a custom handle better suited to the thickness of our RV10 doors. He declined, so I started to make the thinner bodied handles and kitted it up to supply the hardware required for installation in an RV10. The design has been used in the hot rod industry as well, and its proven to be a reliable platform. I have always personally manufactured all of my own parts, until recently, I have started to enlist the help of some of my advanced students on certain parts. steve IFLYRV10.COM -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 3:39 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door latches I believe they are supplier of main item in the IFlyRV10 handle kit. If I had it to do over, I would not do the flush handles, as much as I like the concept and appearance. Too much force needed at poor leverage angles. Also greatly complicates installing Sean's 3rd latch system, which IMHO should be mandatory. On Tue, Feb 21, 2012 at 1:29 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote: > Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website > they > sure look nice. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans
Meant the upper leg pants to fuselage - specifically U-1020-R (or -L) Bill On 2/21/2012 7:35 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote: > > Hey Bill "needing some clarification" Watson, > > Just checkin' ... upper intersection is horizontal/vertical stab? > upper leg pants to fuse? > > Later, - Lew "crankin' out the paint" Gallagher > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2012
Subject: Re: Door latches
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Steve, Thanks for the clarification. On Tue, Feb 21, 2012 at 10:37 PM, Steven DiNieri wrote: > > Kelly, > I bought a hendricks door handle originally, but found that at 1 3/8 > thick, it was bigger (thicker) than I wanted. I redesigned the handle and > pitched the idea to hendricks to make us a > custom handle better suited to the thickness of our RV10 doors. He > declined, so I started to make the thinner bodied handles and kitted it up > to supply the hardware required for installation in an RV10. > The design has been used in the hot rod industry as well, and its proven > to be a reliable platform. I have always personally manufactured all of my > own parts, until recently, I have started to > enlist the help of some of my advanced students on certain parts. > steve > IFLYRV10.COMt ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: maintenance profile
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Date: Feb 22, 2012
Flipped them at inspection time - about 80 hrs. Appreciably more wear on outside. John Ackerman 40458 On Feb 21, 2012, at 1:24 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > So....is anyone removing their tires before the wear is too extreme, and flipping them 180 degrees? Or keeping the orientation the same and moving from left to right side? So the worn part is now on the inside. > > Bob > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366877#366877 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2012
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door latches
Thanks for all the feed back, but I forgot to mention that I have already i nstalled the Van's latches and was wondering about a retrofit. My Van's lat ches work very well, but are just ugly. Now that I have the plane flying I am picking away at the things I am not happy with. Thanks again=0A=0A=0A___ _____________________________=0A From: bob-tcw <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:05 PM=0ASubje ct: Re: RV10-List: Door latches=0A =0A=0ABruce,=C2- I used the Hendricks latches on my =9310.=C2- I am really =0Aplease with how they work, look and feel.=C2-=C2-=C2- I did my my own =0Ainternal handles though and discarded the ones that came with the =0Alatches.=C2-=C2- Also you need to make your own internal push-rods to drive =0Athe door pins from th e latches,=C2- that=99s not part of the latch =0Akit.=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2- Additionally,=C2- I used the rivet-head receiver =0Ablocks i n the door jambs.=C2-=C2- I think those are critical to ensure the =0Ad oor latches properly.=0A=C2-=0AFor details,=C2- visit my picasa site on =9Cdoors, latches and seals=9D=0A=C2-=0Ahttps://picasaweb.go ogle.com/aviator1964/DoorsLatchesSeals?authuser=0&feat=directlink=0A=C2 -=0A=C2-=0ABob Newman=0AN541RV.=C2-=C2- flying=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=C2 -=0AFrom: Bruce Johnson =0ASent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 3:29 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASubject: RV10-List: Door latches=0A=C2- Has a nybody =0Ainstalled the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website they s ure look =0Anice.=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">h ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahref="http://forums.matroni cs.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/cont =========================0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: Door latches
Date: Feb 23, 2012
I would get the nice after market covers and call it good. If they work wel l just go flying is what I would do. Robin Sent from my Galaxy Nexus Bruce Johnson wrote: Thanks for all the feed back, but I forgot to mention that I have already i nstalled the Van's latches and was wondering about a retrofit. My Van's lat ches work very well, but are just ugly. Now that I have the plane flying I am picking away at the things I am not happy with. Thanks again ________________________________ From: bob-tcw <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door latches Bruce, I used the Hendricks latches on my '10. I am really please with how they work, look and feel. I did my my own internal handles though an d discarded the ones that came with the latches. Also you need to make yo ur own internal push-rods to drive the door pins from the latches, that=92 s not part of the latch kit. Additionally, I used the rivet-head recei ver blocks in the door jambs. I think those are critical to ensure the do or latches properly. For details, visit my picasa site on =93doors, latches and seals=94 https://picasaweb.google.com/aviator1964/DoorsLatchesSeals?authuser=0&fea t=directlink Bob Newman N541RV. flying From: Bruce Johnson<mailto:bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 3:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door latches Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website they sure look nice. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matro=================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door latches
From: Mike Schulz <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 22, 2012
I would replace them if you don't like them, I did. Pictures of my install a re on Hendricks web site. How you feel about your plane is important also. Sent from my iPad On Feb 22, 2012, at 8:25 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > I would get the nice after market covers and call it good. If they work we ll just go flying is what I would do. > Robin > Sent from my Galaxy Nexus > > Bruce Johnson wrote: > > Thanks for all the feed back, but I forgot to mention that I have already i nstalled the Van's latches and was wondering about a retrofit. My Van's latc hes work very well, but are just ugly. Now that I have the plane flying I am picking away at the things I am not happy with. Thanks again > > From: bob-tcw <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:05 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door latches > > Bruce, I used the Hendricks latches on my =9310. I am really pleas e with how they work, look and feel. I did my my own internal handles tho ugh and discarded the ones that came with the latches. Also you need to ma ke your own internal push-rods to drive the door pins from the latches, tha t=99s not part of the latch kit. Additionally, I used the rivet-h ead receiver blocks in the door jambs. I think those are critical to ensur e the door latches properly. > > For details, visit my picasa site on =9Cdoors, latches and seals =9D > > https://picasaweb.google.com/aviator1964/DoorsLatchesSeals?authuser=0&fe at=directlink > > > Bob Newman > N541RV. flying > > > > From: Bruce Johnson > Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 3:29 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Door latches > > Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website the y sure look nice. > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > http://www.matro=================== > > > > > > p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ics.com > .matronics.com/contribution > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2012
Subject: Re: maintenance profile
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Just flipped mine at first annual, after 171 landings. Still had some good tread on them, but decided to do it while I had it down for annual. Almost zero wear on the other side of the tires. On Wed, Feb 22, 2012 at 9:19 AM, John Ackerman wrote: > > Flipped them at inspection time - about 80 hrs. Appreciably more wear on > outside. > John Ackerman > 40458 > > On Feb 21, 2012, at 1:24 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > > > > So....is anyone removing their tires before the wear is too extreme, and > flipping them 180 degrees? Or keeping the orientation the same and moving > from left to right side? So the worn part is now on the inside. > > > > Bob > > > > -------- > > Bob Turner > > RV-10 QB > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366877#366877 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: Door latches
Date: Feb 23, 2012
True. Robin Sent from my iPad2. On Feb 22, 2012, at 10:12 PM, "Mike Schulz" > wrote: I would replace them if you don't like them, I did. Pictures of my install are on Hendricks web site. How you feel about your plane is important also. Sent from my iPad On Feb 22, 2012, at 8:25 PM, Robin Marks <rob in(at)PaintTheWeb.com> wrote: I would get the nice after market covers and call it good. If they work wel l just go flying is what I would do. Robin Sent from my Galaxy Nexus Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com< mailto:bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>> wrote: Thanks for all the feed back, but I forgot to mention that I have already i nstalled the Van's latches and was wondering about a retrofit. My Van's lat ches work very well, but are just ugly. Now that I have the plane flying I am picking away at the things I am not happy with. Thanks again ________________________________ From: bob-tcw <<mailto:rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>rnewman(at)tcwtech.com<mailto:rnewm an(at)tcwtech.com>> st(at)matronics.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 6:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door latches Bruce, I used the Hendricks latches on my '10. I am really please with how they work, look and feel. I did my my own internal handles though an d discarded the ones that came with the latches. Also you need to make yo ur own internal push-rods to drive the door pins from the latches, that=92 s not part of the latch kit. Additionally, I used the rivet-head recei ver blocks in the door jambs. I think those are critical to ensure the do or latches properly. For details, visit my picasa site on =93doors, latches and seals=94 https://picasaweb.google.com/aviator1964/DoorsLatchesSeals? authuser=0&feat=directlink Bob Newman N541RV. flying From: Bruce Johnson<mailto:bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 3:29 PM st(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Door latches Has anybody installed the Hendricks door latch? Looking at the website they sure look nice. href="http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List"><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>http ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/con tribution"><http://www.matronics.com/c>http://www.matronics.com/c <http://www.matro=================== =>http://www.matro================== = p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://ics.com>ics.com .matronics.com/contribution ========= ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========= cs.com<http://cs.com> ========= matronics.com/contribution<http://matronics.com/contribution> ========= nics.com/Navigator?RV10-List m/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2012
Subject: Kitplanehoses.com Now Offers International Shipping
From: Steven T <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
We now have added international shipping options for our International Customers at http://www.kitplanehoses.com We also have online price quoting for our custom hose assemblies. You input your specs and our website gives you an instantaneous price quote and allows you to order. All of our orders are shipped out USPS priority mail (domestic and international) We offer all stainless braid, conductive teflon hoses with stainless steel fittings. In addition, our hoses are ALL pressure tested before being shipped to our customers. If anyone has any questions, please contact me at steve(at)aircraftspecialty.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: A I just got a new upper intersection fairing from Vans
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 23, 2012
The fairings that I received in December don't look the great. I have thought long and hard about returning them, but they only refund $24 per. The replacements are $420. I am going to try using them and if the first one does not turn out or takes an inordinate amount of time then I will order some after market. The only ones I have seen as after-market are from Jan -------- Bill Peyton Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367054#367054 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Covering rivet heads on fiberglass
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 23, 2012
On the cowling, I also used 3 oz cloth strip on the joint and rivets where the cowling meets the fuse. On the wingtips and fairings, I used adhesive to glue the hinge to the fiberglass and filled each rivet hole with resin/microballons prior to riveting. I was concerned that adding a layer of cloth on such a thin piece of glass would require a lot of work. I saw this method used in another build. -------- Bill Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367056#367056 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Covering rivet heads on fiberglass
Yes. Did it on the FG top too. Easy and worked fine. Suggest buying light weight tape from a specialty supplier. I got some stuff from Aerospace Composite Products in Livermore CA. Bill On 2/21/2012 8:51 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus > > Are most of you laying a thin layer if fiberglass cloth over the rivet lines in the fiberglass cowling, gear leg fairings, etc to keep the rivets from popping the paint? > > Thanks > -Mike Kraus > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Covering rivet heads on fiberglass
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Feb 23, 2012
You can find some really nice fiberglass tape designed for model airplanes that is tightly woven and ultra thin at hobby shops or online. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367063#367063 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: #4 Screw pop rivet dimpler
Date: Feb 24, 2012
I've bought an AFS AOA kit for installing into the wings on my -10. I don't have the kit yet but I was informed through a PM that I will need a #4 screw pop rivet dimpler. I've looked at both Avery and Cleveland tools websites and don't see such a thing listed. Where can I find this at? Can anyone who has installed the AOA kit please let me know if I truly need this or is there another way of dimpling the screw holes. Also, Is there any more need for a #4 screw pop rivet dimpler on the rest of the airframe? If not, maybe someone would let me borrow one (I'd cover shipping--unless it's just cheaper/easier to buy one). Thanks in advance again, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: #4 Screw pop rivet dimpler
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Feb 24, 2012
Try a 1/8" #30 dimpler. I'm pretty sure it's about the correct size.... Sent from my iPhone On Feb 24, 2012, at 6:31 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" wrote : > I've bought an AFS AOA kit for installing into the wings on my -10. I don 't have the kit yet but I was informed through a PM that I will need a #4 sc rew pop rivet dimpler. I've looked at both Avery and Cleveland tools websit es and don't see such a thing listed. Where can I find this at? Can anyo ne who has installed the AOA kit please let me know if I truly need this or i s there another way of dimpling the screw holes. Also, Is there any more ne ed for a #4 screw pop rivet dimpler on the rest of the airframe? If not, m aybe someone would let me borrow one (I'd cover shipping--unless it's just c heaper/easier to buy one). > > Thanks in advance again, > > Bill > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 24, 2012
Subject: Re: #4 Screw pop rivet dimpler
Bill, A #4 screw is really close to a -4 flush rivet. You could mount a dimple die in some sort of holder (like a bucking bar with a 1/8" hole drilled in it) and put a very short rivet or screw through the skin then drive it down gently with a flat set. --Dave Saylor On Fri, Feb 24, 2012 at 3:31 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: > I've bought an AFS AOA kit for installing into the wings on my -10. I don't > have the kit yet but I was informed through a PM that I will need a #4 screw > pop rivet dimpler. I've looked at both Avery and Cleveland tools websites > and don't see such a thing listed. Where can I find this at? Can anyone > who has installed the AOA kit please let me know if I truly need this or is > there another way of dimpling the screw holes. Also, Is there any more need > for a #4 screw pop rivet dimpler on the rest of the airframe? If not, > maybe someone would let me borrow one (I'd cover shipping--unless it's just > cheaper/easier to buy one). > > Thanks in advance again, > > Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2012
Subject: Airframe measurements
From: Jason Wodack <psychobob96(at)gmail.com>
I'm in the process of planning a conventional gear RV 10, and I was hoping y'all could find me some measurements. 1 Wing LE to Firewall 2 Wing LE to end of the Tail 3 tail to ground in level flight attitude ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James McGrew" <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu>
Subject: Wheel pants
Date: Feb 25, 2012
Thanks to some much needed ribbing from Bob Condrey, after 5+ years of flying, I finally installed the wheel pants. I've been putting it off so long, I started to develop a fear of the job. someone told me it was worse than doing the doors (which I consider the most painful job of the whole project). the wheel pants weren't that bad, but still not much fun in a sub-freezing hangar. I flew the plane yesterday and what a difference! I had 125 KIAS off the runway before I realized I needed to raise the nose a bit higher than I'm used to. I managed to climb easily at 115 KIAS (this would almost zero out my climb rate with no wheel pants). I leveled at 9500 MSL and trimmed out to 166 KTAS, lean of peak at 10 GPH. I then turned West and (literally) popped up to 10500 MSL, where the plane trimmed to 165. That is a 15 to 16 knot gain in true cruising speed. The plane also felt smoother and quieter. I'll see if this has helped fix my engine cooling problems as the weather warms up, but from a qualitative point of view the wheel pants seems to make a big difference in CHT and oil temps in climb. -Jim N312JE ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel Pants
From: "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 25, 2012
Not sure "ribbing" would be the right word, maybe just strong encouragement... Glad you got it done - it really is hard to believe how much of a difference it makes! Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367240#367240 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel pants
From: Preid <Rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 25, 2012
The pants add the extra speed you mentioned and drag reduction. I can tell y ou from recent SoCal temps that yes the CHT WILL go down as the engine gets m ore air but also less resistance. On Feb 25, 2012, at 8:22 AM, "James McGrew" wrote: > Thanks to some much needed ribbing from Bob Condrey, after 5+ years of fly ing, I finally installed the wheel pants. I=99ve been putting it off s o long, I started to develop a fear of the job someone told me it w as worse than doing the doors (which I consider the most painful job of the w hole project) the wheel pants weren=99t that bad, but still n ot much fun in a sub-freezing hangar. > > I flew the plane yesterday and what a difference! I had 125 KIAS off the r unway before I realized I needed to raise the nose a bit higher than I =99m used to. I managed to climb easily at 115 KIAS (this would almost zero o ut my climb rate with no wheel pants). I leveled at 9500 MSL and trimmed out to 166 KTAS, lean of peak at 10 GPH. I then turned West and (literally) pop ped up to 10500 MSL, where the plane trimmed to 165. That is a 15 to 16 knot gain in true cruising speed. > > The plane also felt smoother and quieter. > > I=99ll see if this has helped fix my engine cooling problems as the w eather warms up, but from a qualitative point of view the wheel pants seems t o make a big difference in CHT and oil temps in climb. > > -Jim > N312JE > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rene(at)felker.com
Date: Feb 25, 2012
Subject: Wheel pants
WWVzLCBpIHRob3VnaHQgaXQgZ290IGVhc2llci4uLi4uZmFzdGVyIGFsc28uCgpTZW50IGZyb20g bXkgVmVyaXpvbiBXaXJlbGVzcyA0RyBMVEUgRFJPSUQKCi0tLS0tT3JpZ2luYWwgbWVzc2FnZS0t LS0tCkZyb206IFN0ZXZlIEZhcm5lciA8c3RldmUuZmFybmVyQGJlbGxldnVlLmVkdT4KVG86ICJy djEwLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbSIgPHJ2MTAtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPgpTZW50OiBT YXQsIEZlYiAyNSwgMjAxMiAxMTowMjoyMCBNU1QKU3ViamVjdDogUkU6IFJWMTAtTGlzdDogV2hl ZWwgcGFudHMKCkFzIGEgIm5ld2JpZSwiIEkndmUgYmVlbiB0b2xkIHRoYXQgdGhlIGRvb3JzIGFy ZSByZWFsbHkgdG91Z2gsIGFzIGlzIHRoZSBpbnN0cnVtZW50IGluc3RhbGxhdGlvbi4KCkkgd2Fz IGhvcGluZyBzb21lb25lIHdvdWxkIHRlbGwgbWUgaXQgZ2V0cyBlYXNpZXIgYWZ0ZXIgdGhlIGVs ZXZhdG9ycywgYnV0IEknbSBndWVzc2luZyB0aGF0IHdvbid0IGhhcHBlbiEKClN0ZXZlCgpEbyBu b3QgYXJjaGl2ZQoKX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX18KRnJvbTogb3duZXIt cnYxMC1saXN0LXNlcnZlckBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tIFtvd25lci1ydjEwLWxpc3Qtc2VydmVyQG1h dHJvbmljcy5jb21dIE9uIEJlaGFsZiBPZiBKYW1lcyBNY0dyZXcgW2pzbWNncmV3QGFsdW0ubWl0 LmVkdV0KU2VudDogU2F0dXJkYXksIEZlYnJ1YXJ5IDI1LCAyMDEyIDEwOjIyIEFNClRvOiBydjEw LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQpTdWJqZWN0OiBSVjEwLUxpc3Q6IFdoZWVsIHBhbnRzCgpUaGFu a3MgdG8gc29tZSBtdWNoIG5lZWRlZCByaWJiaW5nIGZyb20gQm9iIENvbmRyZXksIGFmdGVyIDUr IHllYXJzIG9mIGZseWluZywgSSBmaW5hbGx5IGluc3RhbGxlZCB0aGUgd2hlZWwgcGFudHMuIEni gJl2ZSBiZWVuIHB1dHRpbmcgaXQgb2ZmIHNvIGxvbmcsIEkgc3RhcnRlZCB0byBkZXZlbG9wIGEg ZmVhciBvZiB0aGUgam9i4oCmIHNvbWVvbmUgdG9sZCBtZSBpdCB3YXMgd29yc2UgdGhhbiBkb2lu ZyB0aGUgZG9vcnMgKHdoaWNoIEkgY29uc2lkZXIgdGhlIG1vc3QgcGFpbmZ1bCBqb2Igb2YgdGhl IHdob2xlIHByb2plY3Qp4oCmIHRoZSB3aGVlbCBwYW50cyB3ZXJlbuKAmXQgdGhhdCBiYWQsIGJ1 dCBzdGlsbCBub3QgbXVjaCBmdW4gaW4gYSBzdWItZnJlZXppbmcgaGFuZ2FyLgoKSSBmbGV3IHRo ZSBwbGFuZSB5ZXN0ZXJkYXkgYW5kIHdoYXQgYSBkaWZmZXJlbmNlISBJIGhhZCAxMjUgS0lBUyBv ZmYgdGhlIHJ1bndheSBiZWZvcmUgSSByZWFsaXplZCBJIG5lZWRlZCB0byByYWlzZSB0aGUgbm9z ZSBhIGJpdCBoaWdoZXIgdGhhbiBJ4oCZbSB1c2VkIHRvLiBJIG1hbmFnZWQgdG8gY2xpbWIgZWFz aWx5IGF0IDExNSBLSUFTICh0aGlzIHdvdWxkIGFsbW9zdCB6ZXJvIG91dCBteSBjbGltYiByYXRl IHdpdGggbm8gd2hlZWwgcGFudHMpLiBJIGxldmVsZWQgYXQgOTUwMCBNU0wgYW5kIHRyaW1tZWQg b3V0IHRvIDE2NiBLVEFTLCBsZWFuIG9mIHBlYWsgYXQgMTAgR1BILiBJIHRoZW4gdHVybmVkIFdl c3QgYW5kIChsaXRlcmFsbHkpIHBvcHBlZCB1cCB0byAxMDUwMCBNU0wsIHdoZXJlIHRoZSBwbGFu ZSB0cmltbWVkIHRvIDE2NS4gVGhhdCBpcyBhIDE1IHRvIDE2IGtub3QgZ2FpbiBpbiB0cnVlIGNy dWlzaW5nIHNwZWVkLgoKVGhlIHBsYW5lIGFsc28gIGZlbHQgc21vb3RoZXIgYW5kIHF1aWV0ZXIu CgpJ4oCZbGwgc2VlIGlmIHRoaXMgaGFzIGhlbHBlZCBmaXggbXkgZW5naW5lIGNvb2xpbmcgcHJv YmxlbXMgYXMgdGhlIHdlYXRoZXIgd2FybXMgdXAsIGJ1dCBmcm9tIGEgcXVhbGl0YXRpdmUgcG9p bnQgb2YgdmlldyB0aGUgd2hlZWwgcGFudHMgc2VlbXMgdG8gbWFrZSBhIGJpZyBkaWZmZXJlbmNl IGluIENIVCBhbmQgb2lsIHRlbXBzIGluIGNsaW1iLgoKLUppbQpOMzEySkUKCgoKCgoK ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel Pants
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Feb 25, 2012
"As a "newbie," I've been told that the doors are really tough, as is the instrument installation. " It's all in the eye of the beholder. Most -10 builders are "metal guys" so the other stuff seems harder. I've spent my life in and around electronics so I thought the avionics was absolutely straightforward. The key, as with most things, is to spend 3 times as much time thinking about it as doing it! -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367261#367261 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel pants
Date: Feb 26, 2012
SXQgZ2V0cyBlYXNpZXIgYWZ0ZXIgdGhlIGZpcnN0IGNvbmRpdGlvbiBpbnNwZWN0aW9uLg0KDQpS b2Jpbg0KRG8gbm90IGFyY2hpdmUNCg0KU2VudCBmcm9tIG15IGlQYWQyLg0KDQpPbiBGZWIgMjUs IDIwMTIsIGF0IDQ6MDkgUE0sICJyZW5lQGZlbGtlci5jb208bWFpbHRvOnJlbmVAZmVsa2VyLmNv bT4iIDxyZW5lQGZlbGtlci5jb208bWFpbHRvOnJlbmVAZmVsa2VyLmNvbT4+IHdyb3RlOg0KDQpZ ZXMsIGkgdGhvdWdodCBpdCBnb3QgZWFzaWVyLi4uLi5mYXN0ZXIgYWxzby4NCg0KU2VudCBmcm9t IG15IFZlcml6b24gV2lyZWxlc3MgNEcgTFRFIERST0lEDQoNCg0KLS0tLS1PcmlnaW5hbCBtZXNz YWdlLS0tLS0NCkZyb206IFN0ZXZlIEZhcm5lciA8c3RldmUuZmFybmVyQGJlbGxldnVlLmVkdTxt YWlsdG86c3RldmUuZmFybmVyQGJlbGxldnVlLmVkdT4+DQpUbzogInJ2MTAtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25p Y3MuY29tPG1haWx0bzpydjEwLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbT4iIDxydjEwLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9u aWNzLmNvbTxtYWlsdG86cnYxMC1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20+Pg0KU2VudDogU2F0LCBGZWIg MjUsIDIwMTIgMTE6MDI6MjAgTVNUDQpTdWJqZWN0OiBSRTogUlYxMC1MaXN0OiBXaGVlbCBwYW50 cw0KDQpBcyBhICJuZXdiaWUsIiBJJ3ZlIGJlZW4gdG9sZCB0aGF0IHRoZSBkb29ycyBhcmUgcmVh bGx5IHRvdWdoLCBhcyBpcyB0aGUgaW5zdHJ1bWVudCBpbnN0YWxsYXRpb24uDQoNCkkgd2FzIGhv cGluZyBzb21lb25lIHdvdWxkIHRlbGwgbWUgaXQgZ2V0cyBlYXNpZXIgYWZ0ZXIgdGhlIGVsZXZh dG9ycywgYnV0IEknbSBndWVzc2luZyB0aGF0IHdvbid0IGhhcHBlbiENCg0KU3RldmUNCg0KRG8g bm90IGFyY2hpdmUNCg0KX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX18NCkZyb206IG93 bmVyLXJ2MTAtbGlzdC1zZXJ2ZXJAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbTxtYWlsdG86b3duZXItcnYxMC1saXN0 LXNlcnZlckBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPiBbb3duZXItcnYxMC1saXN0LXNlcnZlckBtYXRyb25pY3Mu Y29tPG1haWx0bzpvd25lci1ydjEwLWxpc3Qtc2VydmVyQG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20+XSBPbiBCZWhh bGYgT2YgSmFtZXMgTWNHcmV3IFtqc21jZ3Jld0BhbHVtLm1pdC5lZHU8bWFpbHRvOmpzbWNncmV3 QGFsdW0ubWl0LmVkdT5dDQpTZW50OiBTYXR1cmRheSwgRmVicnVhcnkgMjUsIDIwMTIgMTA6MjIg QU0NClRvOiA8bWFpbHRvOnJ2MTAtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPiBydjEwLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9u aWNzLmNvbTxtYWlsdG86cnYxMC1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20+DQpTdWJqZWN0OiBSVjEwLUxp c3Q6IFdoZWVsIHBhbnRzDQoNClRoYW5rcyB0byBzb21lIG11Y2ggbmVlZGVkIHJpYmJpbmcgZnJv bSBCb2IgQ29uZHJleSwgYWZ0ZXIgNSsgeWVhcnMgb2YgZmx5aW5nLCBJIGZpbmFsbHkgaW5zdGFs bGVkIHRoZSB3aGVlbCBwYW50cy4gSeKAmXZlIGJlZW4gcHV0dGluZyBpdCBvZmYgc28gbG9uZywg SSBzdGFydGVkIHRvIGRldmVsb3AgYSBmZWFyIG9mIHRoZSBqb2LigKYgc29tZW9uZSB0b2xkIG1l IGl0IHdhcyB3b3JzZSB0aGFuIGRvaW5nIHRoZSBkb29ycyAod2hpY2ggSSBjb25zaWRlciB0aGUg bW9zdCBwYWluZnVsIGpvYiBvZiB0aGUgd2hvbGUgcHJvamVjdCnigKYgdGhlIHdoZWVsIHBhbnRz IHdlcmVu4oCZdCB0aGF0IGJhZCwgYnV0IHN0aWxsIG5vdCBtdWNoIGZ1biBpbiBhIHN1Yi1mcmVl emluZyBoYW5nYXIuDQoNCkkgZmxldyB0aGUgcGxhbmUgeWVzdGVyZGF5IGFuZCB3aGF0IGEgZGlm ZmVyZW5jZSEgSSBoYWQgMTI1IEtJQVMgb2ZmIHRoZSBydW53YXkgYmVmb3JlIEkgcmVhbGl6ZWQg SSBuZWVkZWQgdG8gcmFpc2UgdGhlIG5vc2UgYSBiaXQgaGlnaGVyIHRoYW4gSeKAmW0gdXNlZCB0 by4gSSBtYW5hZ2VkIHRvIGNsaW1iIGVhc2lseSBhdCAxMTUgS0lBUyAodGhpcyB3b3VsZCBhbG1v c3QgemVybyBvdXQgbXkgY2xpbWIgcmF0ZSB3aXRoIG5vIHdoZWVsIHBhbnRzKS4gSSBsZXZlbGVk IGF0IDk1MDAgTVNMIGFuZCB0cmltbWVkIG91dCB0byAxNjYgS1RBUywgbGVhbiBvZiBwZWFrIGF0 IDEwIEdQSC4gSSB0aGVuIHR1cm5lZCBXZXN0IGFuZCAobGl0ZXJhbGx5KSBwb3BwZWQgdXAgdG8g MTA1MDAgTVNMLCB3aGVyZSB0aGUgcGxhbmUgdHJpbW1lZCB0byAxNjUuIFRoYXQgaXMgYSAxNSB0 byAxNiBrbm90IGdhaW4gaW4gdHJ1ZSBjcnVpc2luZyBzcGVlZC4NCg0KVGhlIHBsYW5lIGFsc28g IGZlbHQgc21vb3RoZXIgYW5kIHF1aWV0ZXIuDQoNCknigJlsbCBzZWUgaWYgdGhpcyBoYXMgaGVs cGVkIGZpeCBteSBlbmdpbmUgY29vbGluZyBwcm9ibGVtcyBhcyB0aGUgd2VhdGhlciB3YXJtcyB1 cCwgYnV0IGZyb20gYSBxdWFsaXRhdGl2ZSBwb2ludCBvZiB2aWV3IHRoZSB3aGVlbCBwYW50cyBz ZWVtcyB0byBtYWtlIGEgYmlnIGRpZmZlcmVuY2UgaW4gQ0hUIGFuZCBvaWwgdGVtcHMgaW4gY2xp bWIuDQoNCi1KaW0NCk4zMTJKRQ0KDQoNCg0KZ2V0PSJfYmxhbmsiPmh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9u aWNzLmNvbS9OYXZpZ2F0b3I/UlYxMC1MaXN0DQp0cDovL2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tDQpf YmxhbmsiPmh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9jb250cmlidXRpb24NCg0KDQoNCg0KDQpf LT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PQ0KXy09ICAgICAgICAgIC0gVGhlIFJWMTAtTGlzdCBFbWFpbCBGb3J1bSAtDQpfLT0gVXNl IHRoZSBNYXRyb25pY3MgTGlzdCBGZWF0dXJlcyBOYXZpZ2F0b3IgdG8gYnJvd3NlDQpfLT0gdGhl IG1hbnkgTGlzdCB1dGlsaXRpZXMgc3VjaCBhcyBMaXN0IFVuL1N1YnNjcmlwdGlvbiwNCl8tPSBB cmNoaXZlIFNlYXJjaCAmIERvd25sb2FkLCA3LURheSBCcm93c2UsIENoYXQsIEZBUSwNCl8tPSBQ aG90b3NoYXJlLCBhbmQgbXVjaCBtdWNoIG1vcmU6DQpfLT0NCl8tPSAgIC0tPiA8aHR0cDovL3d3 dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL05hdmlnYXRvcj9SVjEwLUxpc3Q+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNz LmNvbS9OYXZpZ2F0b3I/UlYxMC1MaXN0DQpfLT0NCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQpfLT0gICAgICAgICAgICAgICAt IE1BVFJPTklDUyBXRUIgRk9SVU1TIC0NCl8tPSBTYW1lIGdyZWF0IGNvbnRlbnQgYWxzbyBhdmFp bGFibGUgdmlhIHRoZSBXZWIgRm9ydW1zIQ0KXy09DQpfLT0gICAtLT4gPGh0dHA6Ly9mb3J1bXMu bWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbT4gaHR0cDovL2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tDQpfLT0NCl8tPT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQpf LT0gICAgICAgICAgICAgLSBMaXN0IENvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbiBXZWIgU2l0ZSAtDQpfLT0gIFRoYW5r IHlvdSBmb3IgeW91ciBnZW5lcm91cyBzdXBwb3J0IQ0KXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg ICAgICAgICAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLg0KXy09ICAgLS0+IDxodHRwOi8vd3d3 Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vY29udHJpYnV0aW9uPiBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vY29u dHJpYnV0aW9uDQpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQ0KDQoNCg0KKe+/ve+/vd+ie2zvv70377+9cu+/vWjvv71NNO+/vU0f acec77+977+977+9eu+/ve+/ve+/ve+/vS7vv70n77+9Thfvv71XXSDvv73vv71E77+977+977+9 Fu+/ve+/vUse77+9F++/vWrvv73vv70nLC4rLRXmrbrvv73vv70177+94oGraO+/ve+/vRvvv73v v70seu+/vV7vv73vv73vv70uKy3vv73Ype+/vdie77+9y5zvv73vv70g77+977+9VO+/ve+/vW7v v70r77+977+9Yu+/vXArchjvv715J++/ve+/ve+/vUPvv70g5aGneyDvv73vv73vv73vv70seCha 77+9UBA+Gi3vv73vv71a77+977+9dmvvv73vv71r77+977+9ait577+9a3nvv71t77+977+977+9 77+9ICZq77+977+9Jyxy77+977+9Ne+/veKBq2jvv70VddC477+977+9G23vv73vv73vv73vv70g 77+977+977+9J++/ve+/vRzvv71v77+9au+/ve+/vWrvv70rRV10List77+977+9TRPvv70gJO+/ vRARTkVDEknvv73vv73vv73vv73vv73vv73vv70n77+977+977+9alsoau+/ve+/ve+/ve+/ve+/ vXrvv73vv73vv70X77+9ee+/vWjvv73vv71qGu+/vX4bbe+/ve+/vd+i77+977+977+9Zu+/ve+/ ve+/ve+/vXLvv70o77+9G23vv73vv73fou+/ve+/ve+/vWbvv73vv73vv73vv71y77+9KO+/ve+/ ve+/ve+/ve+/vULvv717a++/ve+/ve+/ve+/ve+/ve+/vXnvv73vv73vv73vv73vv71qeTLvv73v v73vv70qLu+/vQfvv71677+9Lu+/vcup77+977+977+9Me+/vW0O77+977+977+977+977+977+9 He+/vSnahu+/ve+/ve+/ve+/vWnvv73vv70w77+9Zu+/ve+/ve+/ve+/vXLvv70o77+977+9KO+/ ve+/ve+/vW7vv71i77+9eG3vv73vv73vv73vv70gJmrvv73vv70nLHLvv73vv71y77+977+9Ju+/ vSon77+977+977+977+977+9J++/ve+/vWt777+977+9dy/vv71pDQo ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Breakfast/lunch at I74 Grimes Fld, OH Sun. 2/26/12
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 26, 2012
The family is getting ready for a beautiful sunny day of flying here in Ohio. Hope some of you can meet us there or get up in the air in your neck of the woods. Be safe and have fun. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 31 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367282#367282 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fresh paint
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Feb 26, 2012
Very nice. Can you say who/where did the painting? Also curious if you weighed the plane before and after. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367312#367312 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Advanced AOA 'A Kit'
Date: Feb 26, 2012
When I was building my RV-10 I originally intended to install the Advanced AOA but later changed to Dynon. I have that kit available for anyone who may be installing the Advanced AOA. This is the 'A Kit' which has wing ports, red & green tubing, 2 pushbutton switches, circuit breaker, DVD, installation manual and instructions. It does not contain the CPU, display or wiring. I don't know what the current price for the 'A Kit' is but I'd like to offer it to anyone, satisfaction guaranteed, for what you're willing to pay. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ 928-343-2792 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fresh paint
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 27, 2012
Nice design on the stripes. I like the flow and the small horizontal accent strip. Your buddy did a great job! -------- Bill Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367351#367351 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Advanced AOA 'A Kit'
Date: Feb 27, 2012
This actually reminds me that I have an AOA Sport "B" kit (processor, display, etc) that I'm not going to be using because I went with the version built into the AFS EFIS. I believe it's around $510 new and if someone wants it for $450 shipped let me know. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 6:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Advanced AOA 'A Kit' --> When I was building my RV-10 I originally intended to install the Advanced AOA but later changed to Dynon. I have that kit available for anyone who may be installing the Advanced AOA. This is the 'A Kit' which has wing ports, red & green tubing, 2 pushbutton switches, circuit breaker, DVD, installation manual and instructions. It does not contain the CPU, display or wiring. I don't know what the current price for the 'A Kit' is but I'd like to offer it to anyone, satisfaction guaranteed, for what you're willing to pay. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ 928-343-2792 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2012
Subject: Oil cooler mount size
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Anyone have the dimensions of the RV-10 oil cooler mount readily available? Looking for the "footprint" on the firewall. Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: AOA installation in wings
Date: Feb 27, 2012
On the third bay in from the wingtip on the spar there's a hole in the web. I assume these are tooling holes. This will probably warrant a phone call to Vans, but, does anybody have any thoughts (other than "don't mess with the wing spar any more than you need to!!!") about enlarging that hole to 7/16 for a snap bushing? I'm looking for a route for the pressure lines on my AOA. Aside from ordering a longer tubing length from AFS and running the tubing to the wingtip, then the full length of the wing through my conduit, I cannot see any easier way. I do already have my outboard leading edges installed, so this will be fairly difficult anyway. My only other thought is to just run both tubes through the hole and then gob proseal around them to keep them from rubbing. Anybody have any other general suggestions about the wing install part of this??? Pictures??? Using the stock location suggested on the AFS site, does anybody know how this will affect--if any--the install of the Duckworks leading edge landing lights in the same bay? Thanks again for any help, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: AP procedure
Date: Feb 27, 2012
Shortly after start, I apply power to my TT VSGV. The words AP OFF show on the screen. A friend indicated that he did not apply power to the TT until airborne; I suggested that was an unwise procedure because if inadvertently encountering IMC (dark night, low clouds or dark night and unlighted terrain) the AP can be used to maintain control of the aircraft. A touch of the round black knob will automatically synchronize the aircraft to the current heading by leveling wings and maintaining pitch attitude i.e. rate of climb. The TT AP has its own solid state pitch and roll sensors and the straight and level sensors are set at power up, preferably on the ground. My TT is my third way to keep the clean side up and dirty side down, after the Cheltons and the GRT Sport. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2012
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: AOA installation in wings
Here's my installation. I routed the tubes out to the end then back to the fuselage. http://rv10.stephensville.com/2010/06/06/routing-aoa-tubes/ Also, the ports in no way conflict with the install of the Duckworks lights. They are plenty aft of the mount. -Sean #40303 (Still wiring panel) On 2/27/12 6:32 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: > On the third bay in from the wingtip on the spar there's a hole in the > web. I assume these are tooling holes. This will probably warrant a > phone call to Vans, but, does anybody have any thoughts (other than > "don't mess with the wing spar any more than you need to!!!") about > enlarging that hole to 7/16 for a snap bushing? I'm looking for a > route for the pressure lines on my AOA. Aside from ordering a longer > tubing length from AFS and running the tubing to the wingtip, then the > full length of the wing through my conduit, I cannot see any easier > way. I do already have my outboard leading edges installed, so this > will be fairly difficult anyway. > My only other thought is to just run both tubes through the hole and > then gob proseal around them to keep them from rubbing. > Anybody have any other general suggestions about the wing install part > of this??? Pictures??? Using the stock location suggested on the AFS > site, does anybody know how this will affect--if any--the install of > the Duckworks leading edge landing lights in the same bay? > Thanks again for any help, > Bill > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 27, 2012
Subject: Re: AP procedure
>From the manual: "After start up, turn on the autopilot master switch and hold the aircraft stationary as the internal gyros are initialized. The model and software version will be displayed for approximately ten seconds in the lower left. Then PWR UP in the lower right takes approximately another ten seconds. When initializing is complete PWR UP will change to AP OFF." The take-away is don't move the plane the until the AP reads AP OFF. Asking it to initialize in flight doesn't always give great results. I haven't timed it but my sense is that it doesn't really take 20 seconds for it to initialize. I put it early in the checklist so I'm doing other stuff anyway. --Dave Saylor On Mon, Feb 27, 2012 at 6:03 PM, DLM wrote: > Shortly after start, I apply power to my TT VSGV. The words AP OFF show on > the screen. A friend indicated that he did not apply power to the TT until > airborne; I suggested that was an unwise procedure because if inadvertently > encountering IMC (dark night, low clouds or dark night and unlighted > terrain) the AP can be used to maintain control of the aircraft. A touch of > the round black knob will automatically synchronize the aircraft to the > current heading by leveling wings and maintaining pitch attitude i.e. rate > of climb. The TT AP has its own solid state pitch and roll sensors and the > straight and level sensors are set at power up, preferably on the ground. > My TT is my third way to keep the clean side up and dirty side down, after > the Cheltons and the GRT Sport. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: AOA installation in wings
Date: Feb 27, 2012
I bought parker pneumatic line to run coax in my wing. It is 5/16 OD and it runs down the "J" channels in the wing. You can push coax through with ease. I ran coax through it to keep it away from powered linesin the conduit. You could easily pull the AOA lines through this as well. It stays in place so you don't have to tack it in the channel. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2012 7:27 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: AOA installation in wings > > Here's my installation. I routed the tubes out to the end then back to > the fuselage. > > http://rv10.stephensville.com/2010/06/06/routing-aoa-tubes/ > > Also, the ports in no way conflict with the install of the Duckworks > lights. They are plenty aft of the mount. > > -Sean #40303 (Still wiring panel) > > On 2/27/12 6:32 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote: >> On the third bay in from the wingtip on the spar there's a hole in the >> web. I assume these are tooling holes. This will probably warrant a >> phone call to Vans, but, does anybody have any thoughts (other than >> "don't mess with the wing spar any more than you need to!!!") about >> enlarging that hole to 7/16 for a snap bushing? I'm looking for a route >> for the pressure lines on my AOA. Aside from ordering a longer tubing >> length from AFS and running the tubing to the wingtip, then the full >> length of the wing through my conduit, I cannot see any easier way. I do >> already have my outboard leading edges installed, so this will be fairly >> difficult anyway. >> My only other thought is to just run both tubes through the hole and then >> gob proseal around them to keep them from rubbing. >> Anybody have any other general suggestions about the wing install part of >> this??? Pictures??? Using the stock location suggested on the AFS site, >> does anybody know how this will affect--if any--the install of the >> Duckworks leading edge landing lights in the same bay? >> Thanks again for any help, >> Bill >> * >> >> >> * > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AP procedure
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Feb 28, 2012
I do the same. It takes less time then the adhrs . Alan Sent from my iPhone On Feb 27, 2012, at 9:03 PM, "DLM" wrote: > Shortly after start, I apply power to my TT VSGV. The words AP OFF show on the screen. A friend indicated that he did not apply power to the TT until a irborne; I suggested that was an unwise procedure because if inadvertently e ncountering IMC (dark night, low clouds or dark night and unlighted terrain) the AP can be used to maintain control of the aircraft. A touch of the roun d black knob will automatically synchronize the aircraft to the current head ing by leveling wings and maintaining pitch attitude i.e. rate of climb. The TT AP has its own solid state pitch and roll sensors and the straight and l evel sensors are set at power up, preferably on the ground. My TT is my thi rd way to keep the clean side up and dirty side down, after the Cheltons and the GRT Sport. > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Re: AOA installation in wings
Date: Feb 28, 2012
Bill, I ran them through separate grommets in the nose ribs if I remember corre ctly. I did that with these and with some other things. Should be picture s in my Kitlog site if you want to have a look around. I'll see if i can f ind specifics and send them later. Michael On Feb 27, 2012, at 6:42 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" > wrote: On the third bay in from the wingtip on the spar there's a hole in the web. I assume these are tooling holes. This will probably warrant a phone cal l to Vans, but, does anybody have any thoughts (other than "don't mess with the wing spar any more than you need to!!!") about enlarging that hole to 7/16 for a snap bushing? I'm looking for a route for the pressure lines on my AOA. Aside from ordering a longer tubing length from AFS and running t he tubing to the wingtip, then the full length of the wing through my condu it, I cannot see any easier way. I do already have my outboard leading edg es installed, so this will be fairly difficult anyway. My only other thought is to just run both tubes through the hole and then g ob proseal around them to keep them from rubbing. Anybody have any other general suggestions about the wing install part of t his??? Pictures??? Using the stock location suggested on the AFS site, doe s anybody know how this will affect--if any--the install of the Duckworks l eading edge landing lights in the same bay? Thanks again for any help, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AP procedure
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 28, 2012
Same for me. Toggle switch near ap. Startup all avionics with aux bat once plane is pulled out. By the time I hop in grt and xm is all ready to go. In case something goes wrong with me my wife knows how to hit the round knob too. She has been learning alot on the last 5 flights with the family. I would not build an RV without ap. In no time you are turning and then descending into a spiral dive. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011 N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 31 hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=367429#367429 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: AP procedure
I have the AP (and the GRTs) on a 2nd buss - not same as starter buss - so they come on with power up and complete their initialization by the time I've started the engine and thought about moving. Makes no sense to apply power after liftoff unless one has some unfounded fear about the AP 'taking over' inadvertently. Bill On 2/27/2012 9:03 PM, DLM wrote: > > Shortly after start, I apply power to my TT VSGV. The words AP OFF > show on the screen. A friend indicated that he did not apply power to > the TT until airborne; I suggested that was an unwise procedure > because if inadvertently encountering IMC (dark night, low clouds or > dark night and unlighted terrain) the AP can be used to maintain > control of the aircraft. A touch of the round black knob will > automatically synchronize the aircraft to the current heading by > leveling wings and maintaining pitch attitude i.e. rate of climb. The > TT AP has its own solid state pitch and roll sensors and the straight > and level sensors are set at power up, preferably on the ground. My > TT is my third way to keep the clean side up and dirty side down, > after the Cheltons and the GRT Sport. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com>
Subject: AP procedure
Date: Feb 28, 2012
Another thing I set was that the GRT is connected by its various power inputs to the primary bus and essential bus. The AP is on the primary bus only and the Cheltons are on the essential bus only. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 7:47 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: AP procedure I have the AP (and the GRTs) on a 2nd buss - not same as starter buss - so they come on with power up and complete their initialization by the time I've started the engine and thought about moving. Makes no sense to apply power after liftoff unless one has some unfounded fear about the AP 'taking over' inadvertently. Bill On 2/27/2012 9:03 PM, DLM wrote: Shortly after start, I apply power to my TT VSGV. The words AP OFF show on the screen. A friend indicated that he did not apply power to the TT until airborne; I suggested that was an unwise procedure because if inadvertently encountering IMC (dark night, low clouds or dark night and unlighted terrain) the AP can be used to maintain control of the aircraft. A touch of the round black knob will automatically synchronize the aircraft to the current heading by leveling wings and maintaining pitch attitude i.e. rate of climb. The TT AP has its own solid state pitch and roll sensors and the straight and level sensors are set at power up, preferably on the ground. My TT is my third way to keep the clean side up and dirty side down, after the Cheltons and the GRT Sport. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 2012
Subject: Antenna locations
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
I'm just getting ready to finish up the vertical stab, and I need to make a decision about antenna locations... specifically the Nav antenna(s). The options I've seen are: - Whiskers on top of the VS (on the rib below the rudder) - Whiskers below the VS - Wingtip antenna I'm leaning towards whiskers on top of the VS and a NAV2 in a wingtip, as I'm worried about dogs and kids finding the antennas with their eyes (also concerned about the COM antennas on the belly for the same reason, but that's something to worry about further down the line). My question is: is there a performance hit from mounting the whiskers on top of the VS? Do you get any shadowing from the wings and body of the plane? Also, which whiskers (with removable elements) are giving the best performance for your buck? Thanks! Ed Kranz 41347 edandcolleen.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Antenna locations
Ed, For my 6A, I got a set of Comant whiskers on top of my VS - inside the VS top cap. I don't think they make that one any more. No reception issues that I've experienced - I'm doing my IFR training in it and having a blast! Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> >Sent: Feb 28, 2012 11:10 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Antenna locations > >I'm just getting ready to finish up the vertical stab, and I need to make a >decision about antenna locations... specifically the Nav antenna(s). > >The options I've seen are: > > - Whiskers on top of the VS (on the rib below the rudder) > - Whiskers below the VS > - Wingtip antenna > >I'm leaning towards whiskers on top of the VS and a NAV2 in a wingtip, as >I'm worried about dogs and kids finding the antennas with their eyes (also >concerned about the COM antennas on the belly for the same reason, but >that's something to worry about further down the line). > >My question is: is there a performance hit from mounting the whiskers on >top of the VS? Do you get any shadowing from the wings and body of the >plane? Also, which whiskers (with removable elements) are giving the best >performance for your buck? > >Thanks! > >Ed Kranz >41347 >edandcolleen.com

January 28, 2012 - February 28, 2012

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ip