RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ir
March 31, 2012 - April 30, 2012
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| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Palo Duro Canyon |
Wayne,
I've never used the AMA airport, so can't comment on it. Nearby and
cheaper fuel is the Tradewinds airport, which I have used probably a
dozen times. Tradewinds is closer to the hotels lining I-10, so you can
pick whatever flavor you prefer. There is ground reception with approach
control/clearance del at Tradewinds, so Class C clearance is no problem.
At the time I was flying by there, one or more of the hotels would pick
you up, as they are less than 2 mi away.
Kelly
On 3/31/2012 5:57 AM, Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> My wife and I are thinking of flying out to Palo Duro Canyon at
> Amarillo, TX. Anyone been there or live there that could give me some
> ideas on what to see/do and where would be the best place for lodging.
> Also is the main airport in Amarillo the desired airport to fly in to?
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Palo Duro Canyon |
Wayne,
My wife and I went there on our circle tour of the west last year. We used
KAMA because the rental cars at Tradewinds airport were ridiculous. TacAir
at KAMA did a great job and shuttled us over to the terminal for the rental.
We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in Canyon, the Best Western was full of
firefighters. These are the closest hotels to the park. Buffalo's has good
food.
Palo Duro Canyon was very interesting. We hiked to the Lighthouses, 85 when
we started, 105 when we finished. Take at least three quarts of water per
person as the dry air will dehydrate you quickly. The burgers at the park
concession are from the local longhorn steers and are awesome.
Steve Roberts (swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net)
RV10 Tailkit
N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown, TN
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 8:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Palo Duro Canyon
My wife and I are thinking of flying out to Palo Duro Canyon at Amarillo,
TX. Anyone been there or live there that could give me some ideas on what to
see/do and where would be the best place for lodging. Also is the main
airport in Amarillo the desired airport to fly in to?
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10s and S&F Departures |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
We flew in Thursday morning and just left before 1100 today - Saturday. Hot and
Dusty. I was behind a C-172 coming in so I just flew it at 85knots with half
flaps.
I didn't go last year, but I can say that there were only half the home builts
there that I saw in 2010. Actually, lots of empty spaces on all the ramps.
The big problem for HBs is they close the ramp a half hour before any show and
wait until the final act pilot is half way to the bar before they open back up.
If the shows actually started on time, I could understand. IF I go again, I'm
not parking at HB. I'll find a ramp that doesn't close during the show.
I only saw two other RV-10s at HB during the two days we were there.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369693#369693
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10s and S&F Departures |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Maybe fuel prices, last years tornadoes, and the excessively long airshow had something
to do with it. I have been once in 2009 and may go with my brother from
KSEF next year. I'll make sure I don't park in HB area. Triple Tree will probably
be much nicer for me.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08
40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011
N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 41
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369700#369700
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: length of exhaust pipes |
That's not soot. That's rubber from the tires.
Tim
On 3/31/2012 7:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> With the 'factory' engine setup and exhaust, I don't really get any soot
> at 125hrs+. I'll try to remember to measure the clearance next time I
> get to the plane
>
> I do get oil which seems to all come from the breather tube. I should
> have a better measure but it seems to be down about a quart per 25 - 30
> hours. It stays pretty clean.
>
> I do get a little soot coming out of the gear exit points at the wing
> roots (??)
>
> Bill
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Mar 30, 2012, at 4:01 PM, "DLM" > wrote:
>
>> Any correlation between the length of exhaust tubes and the length and
>> breadth of the exhaust soot on the belly? How long are your exhaust
>> tubes? How much crud on the underside?
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: length of exhaust pipes |
| From: | "mdaniell" <martin.daniell(at)bigpond.com> |
.......or brake pad powder.
Tim Olson wrote:
> That's not soot. That's rubber from the tires.
>
> Tim
>
> On 3/31/2012 7:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> > With the 'factory' engine setup and exhaust, I don't really get any soot
> > at 125hrs+. I'll try to remember to measure the clearance next time I
> > get to the plane
> >
> > I do get oil which seems to all come from the breather tube. I should
> > have a better measure but it seems to be down about a quart per 25 - 30
> > hours. It stays pretty clean.
> >
> > I do get a little soot coming out of the gear exit points at the wing
> > roots (??)
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On Mar 30, 2012, at 4:01 PM, "DLM" wrote:
> >
> > > Any correlation between the length of exhaust tubes and the length and
> > > breadth of the exhaust soot on the belly? How long are your exhaust
> > > tubes? How much crud on the underside?
> > >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369730#369730
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10s and S&F Departures |
So sad, used to be a premier show... I went from 1998 to 2008, but haven't been
since.... Just doesn't seem the same....
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 31, 2012, at 1:18 PM, "rv10flyer" wrote:
>
> Maybe fuel prices, last years tornadoes, and the excessively long airshow had
something to do with it. I have been once in 2009 and may go with my brother
from KSEF next year. I'll make sure I don't park in HB area. Triple Tree will
probably be much nicer for me.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08
> 40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011
> N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 41
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369700#369700
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: length of exhaust pipes |
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
And brake dust.....
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 31, 2012, at 2:36 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> That's not soot. That's rubber from the tires.
>
> Tim
>
> On 3/31/2012 7:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>> With the 'factory' engine setup and exhaust, I don't really get any soot
>> at 125hrs+. I'll try to remember to measure the clearance next time I
>> get to the plane
>>
>> I do get oil which seems to all come from the breather tube. I should
>> have a better measure but it seems to be down about a quart per 25 - 30
>> hours. It stays pretty clean.
>>
>> I do get a little soot coming out of the gear exit points at the wing
>> roots (??)
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Mar 30, 2012, at 4:01 PM, "DLM" > > wrote:
>>
>>> Any correlation between the length of exhaust tubes and the length and
>>> breadth of the exhaust soot on the belly? How long are your exhaust
>>> tubes? How much crud on the underside?
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Desser offers tire deal |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I really like the monster retreads and will always use them, but what makes them
particularly attractive is their hefty tread which also makes their circumference
larger than the plans specify which means that the geometry of the pant
fitting is different than the plan specifications and must be accounted for starting
with a thinner spacing block (discovered the hard way).
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369788#369788
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
Has anyone found a stronger replacement than the original equipment sent
with the kit? Anyone have the dimensions and force specifications of the
original equipment? After four years even the temperatures in AZ do not
reliably keep the doors open. If anyone has it, I need the open and closed
length of the strut and the force required to close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | please help me...........Rick |
- I am presently in Istanbul , Turkey for an urgent trip. Unfortunately i
was robbed in the hotel i lodged, all my valuables including cash, cell ph
ones was stolen during the attack but luckily i still have my passport with
me. I have been to the Embassy and the Police here but they're not helping
issues at all. Please i really need your financial assistance now because
things are really getting tough on me here. Kindly lend me $2,500 usd or an
y amount you can afford to me now,so i can sort out things and leave here,
i promise to refund it immediately i get back. Please send it through Weste
rn Union with my name and the address below:
Name: Keryn Lee HaynesAddress:Acisu Sok No 5 D 4MackaIstanbulTurkey
Kindly send me the transfer details including the Transfer Number (MTCN) as
soon as you send it. I await your urgent response.
Waiting for your help
Regards,Keryn-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Vans sells a stronger strut than the one in the kit.
I tried to find them less expensively but didn't have any luck so I got a
set from Vans. They've been on for a couple years now, working well.
--Dave Saylor
On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 12:18 PM, DLM wrote:
> Has anyone found a stronger replacement than the original equipment sent
> with the kit? Anyone have the dimensions and force specifications of the
> original equipment? After four years even the temperatures in AZ do not
> reliably keep the doors open. If anyone has it, I need the open and closed
> length of the strut and the force required to close****
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The answer is 'yes'. I don't have the information myself, but I've seen it posted
before. Do a search, you'll find the answers.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369899#369899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: please help me...........Rick |
Guys, sorry about the message below.- It appears someone somehow hijacked
my yahoo account.- I've changed the password for now and depending on wh
at the Yahoo administration says I may change the whole account.- The wor
st thing about this is that all my saved-emails containing-tips/advise
have been deleted.-Hopefully Yahoo can restore them.
Again, sorry about this.............Rick-
--- On Mon, 4/2/12, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
wrote:
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: please help me...........Rick
Received: Monday, April 2, 2012, 9:46 PM
Rick Lark,
It appears that your email address has been hijacked
by somebody in Turkey who is hopeful that someone on
this List is going to 'loan' him a bucket full of money. Suggest
you attend to changing your email address with Yahoo.
Bob . . .
At 03:43 PM 4/2/2012, you wrote:
- I am presently in Istanbul , Turkey for an urgent trip. Unfortunately i
was robbed in the hotel i lodged, all my valuables including cash, cell ph
ones was stolen during the attack but luckily i still have my passport with
me. I have been to the Embassy and the Police here but they're not helping
issues at all. Please i really need your financial assistance now because
things are really getting tough on me here. Kindly lend me $2,500 usd or an
y amount you can afford to me now,so i can sort out things and leave here,
i promise to refund it immediately i get back. Please send it through Weste
rn Union with my name and the address below:
Name: Keryn Lee Haynes
Address:Acisu Sok No 5 D 4
Macka
Istanbul
Turkey
Kindly send me the transfer details including the Transfer Number (MTCN) as
soon as you send it. I await your urgent response.
Waiting for your help
Regards,
Keryn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: please help me...........Rick |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Are you saying I shouldn't have sent all my savings that were for the RV14 t
o Istanbul?
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 2, 2012, at 19:34, Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Guys, sorry about the message below. It appears someone somehow hijacked m
y yahoo account. I've changed the password for now and depending on what th
e Yahoo administration says I may change the whole account. The worst thing
about this is that all my saved emails containing tips/advise have been del
eted. Hopefully Yahoo can restore them.
> Again, sorry about this.............Rick
>
> --- On Mon, 4/2/12, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: please help me...........Rick
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Received: Monday, April 2, 2012, 9:46 PM
>
> Rick Lark,
>
> It appears that your email address has been hijacked
> by somebody in Turkey who is hopeful that someone on
> this List is going to 'loan' him a bucket full of money. Suggest
> you attend to changing your email address with Yahoo.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> At 03:43 PM 4/2/2012, you wrote:
>> I am presently in Istanbul , Turkey for an urgent trip. Unfortunately i
was robbed in the hotel i lodged, all my valuables including cash, cell pho
nes was stolen during the attack but luckily i still have my passport with m
e. I have been to the Embassy and the Police here but they're not helping is
sues at all. Please i really need your financial assistance now because thin
gs are really getting tough on me here. Kindly lend me $2,500 usd or any amo
unt you can afford to me now,so i can sort out things and leave here, i prom
ise to refund it immediately i get back. Please send it through Western Unio
n with my name and the address below:
>>
>>
>> Name: Keryn Lee Haynes
>> Address:Acisu Sok No 5 D 4
>> Macka
>> Istanbul
>> Turkey
>>
>> Kindly send me the transfer details including the Transfer Number (MTCN) a
s soon as you send it. I await your urgent response.
>>
>>
>> Waiting for your help
>>
>> Regards,
>> Keryn
>
>
> ist" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Aer
oElectric-List
> et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
> llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: please help me...........Rick |
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
I want my $2500 back.
Rick
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 2, 2012, at 6:34 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Guys, sorry about the message below. It appears someone somehow hijacked m
y yahoo account. I've changed the password for now and depending on what th
e Yahoo administration says I may change the whole account. The worst thing
about this is that all my saved emails containing tips/advise have been del
eted. Hopefully Yahoo can restore them.
> Again, sorry about this.............Rick
>
> --- On Mon, 4/2/12, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: please help me...........Rick
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Received: Monday, April 2, 2012, 9:46 PM
>
> Rick Lark,
>
> It appears that your email address has been hijacked
> by somebody in Turkey who is hopeful that someone on
> this List is going to 'loan' him a bucket full of money. Suggest
> you attend to changing your email address with Yahoo.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> At 03:43 PM 4/2/2012, you wrote:
>> I am presently in Istanbul , Turkey for an urgent trip. Unfortunately i
was robbed in the hotel i lodged, all my valuables including cash, cell pho
nes was stolen during the attack but luckily i still have my passport with m
e. I have been to the Embassy and the Police here but they're not helping is
sues at all. Please i really need your financial assistance now because thin
gs are really getting tough on me here. Kindly lend me $2,500 usd or any amo
unt you can afford to me now,so i can sort out things and leave here, i prom
ise to refund it immediately i get back. Please send it through Western Unio
n with my name and the address below:
>>
>>
>> Name: Keryn Lee Haynes
>> Address:Acisu Sok No 5 D 4
>> Macka
>> Istanbul
>> Turkey
>>
>> Kindly send me the transfer details including the Transfer Number (MTCN) a
s soon as you send it. I await your urgent response.
>>
>>
>> Waiting for your help
>>
>> Regards,
>> Keryn
>
>
> ist" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Aer
oElectric-List
> et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
> llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I have Van's heavy duty struts and they work well, but are pricey at $120 as I
recall. Struts from McMaster-Carr and others are less expensive, but results have
been variable. Search here and VAF for details.
Jim Berry
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369919#369919
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014.
Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com .
The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was ~$80 each.
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369935#369935
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10s and S&F Departures |
| From: | "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca> |
John
I was standing next to your plane and waiting to shake the hand of a fellow RV-10
pilot when they kicked us out for the show. I've been to at least ten Sun N
Fun's and might have watched the show once. Not important to me it's the homebuilts
that get me there. As said here not sure I will attend again soon, even
left our RV at Kissimmee. Not the show of a few years ago. One thing they did
improve on was the drinks, there were numerous outlets this year although they
cost more than an aircraft.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=369983#369983
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exhaust installation plan |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
I cant find the handwritten exhaust installation plans from Vetterman. Could someone
please post them as pdf? I installed them from what I remember seeing but
I cant get them fit close enough to the belly and to the gear to not inter fear
with the bottom cowling. Installation pictures are welcome as well.
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370069#370069
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust installation plan |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
You will need to cut a half moon shape out in lower cowl to provide 1/2" clearance.
No more than that is needed due to large amount of cooling air at high power
settings.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08
40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011
N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 41
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370091#370091
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust installation plan |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I did not need to cut the lower cowl to get clearance, but it did take a fair amount
of fiddling with the exhaust hangers to get it right. I would not cut the
cowl except as a last resort.
Jim Berry
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370108#370108
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust installation plan |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I agree Jim,
could someone please send me a scan of the plan though because the way I did mount
it, it doest really fit.
Mike
Jim Berry wrote:
> I did not need to cut the lower cowl to get clearance, but it did take a fair
amount of fiddling with the exhaust hangers to get it right. I would not cut
the cowl except as a last resort.
>
> Jim Berry
> N15JB
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370115#370115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust installation plan |
I trimmed my cowl per plans and there is plenty of clearance for the pipes.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 2:16:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust installation plan
I agree Jim,
could someone please send me a scan of the plan though because the way I di
d mount it, it does=C3=82=C2=B4t really fit.
Mike
Jim Berry wrote:
> I did not need to cut the lower cowl to get clearance, but it did take a
fair amount of fiddling with the exhaust hangers to get it right. I would n
ot cut the cowl except as a last resort.
>
> Jim Berry
> N15JB
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370115#370115
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust installation plan |
Have you seen these revisions? Mine worked just about like the prototype in
these pictures, no cutting on anything but a fair amount of jockeying around
and bending of the support strap to pull the exhaust up higher and keep it
there such that the clearance to the bottom edge of the firewall is close
but ok.
-Chris
N919AR Flying
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-10/FF6-06.pdf
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-10/FF6-05.pdf
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-10/FF6-01.pdf
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Whisky
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 7:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Exhaust installation plan
Hi,
I cant find the handwritten exhaust installation plans from Vetterman.
Could someone please post them as pdf? I installed them from what I remember
seeing but I cant get them fit close enough to the belly and to the gear
to not inter fear with the bottom cowling. Installation pictures are welcome
as well.
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370069#370069
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust installation plan |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks Chris,
This is exactly what I needed!
It looks as if I'll have to cut back my breather tube a bit as it is in the way
of the exhaust pipe.
Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370144#370144
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Seatbelts - lap belt adjusters |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Quick question, regarding the buckles of my lap belt, where did you choose to
mount the adjusters, at the buckle or at the endfittings.
See attached drawing.
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370174#370174
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Length of the shoulder harness sections |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
And here is one more questions, I measured the different length of the shoulder
harness (see attached picture) I was wondering if this is matching your length.
Appreciate your feedback
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370176#370176
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/shoulder_harness_length_988.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tank Vent/Newton Fuel Caps |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I have been living with this problem for quite a while and would like to solicit
some ideas for dealing with the problem.
I purchased and installed the retrofit locking caps that Van's sells for tanks that are already built. http://tinyurl.com/7fbvpyw You receive a sleeve that fits into the existing fuel cap flange. You install this sleeve into the flange using tank sealant to secure it, and then the new caps fit into the sleeve. Easy job and it looks great. The caps are manufactured by Newton and are very nice. The problem is that when tanks are filled, the fuel comes into contact with the bottom of the cap (the cap is about 1 1/2 inches deep), and, after takeoff, fuel siphons out of the key slot on the cap until the fuel level drops below the bottom of the cap. Usually, the problem stops quickly if you are burning fuel out of the tank. I also have the SafeAir1 extended range tip tanks and have installed these caps, but they do not have this problem. The tank vents are different on the tip tanks. They are a coiled aluminum tube versus the simple 90 degree bent tube on the main tanks. Both vents have the beveled opening facing forward. Could the difference in the vent lines be the key to solving this?
I was admiring a Harmon Rocket a couple of weeks ago and I noticed that it had
the Newton caps installed. I talked to the owner and he confirmed that they were
the same caps from Van's. He said he fills his to the top routinely and never
has any fuel siphon through the key slot. I did not think to take a look at
his tank vents. I am aware of several RV-10's that have these caps and, as far
as I know, they all have this problem. I emailed Newton about this, but have
received no response so far.
Any thoughts or suggestions, guys/gals? [Question]
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370242#370242
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Vent/Newton Fuel Caps |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I don't have these caps but it sounds to me as if there is a design defect, or
perhaps an O ring that needs replacing.
Since the fuel caps are on the top of the wing, a low pressure area, they will
siphon fuel out if they leak at all. This will also make the fuel pump work harder,
especially if the normal vent can't keep up with the pressure loss out the
top. And if gas can get out, then rain can get in.
Fuel caps shouldn't leak.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370262#370262
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Vent/Newton Fuel Caps |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Bob Turner wrote:
> I don't have these caps but it sounds to me as if there is a design defect, or
perhaps an O ring that needs replacing.
>
> Since the fuel caps are on the top of the wing, a low pressure area, they will
siphon fuel out if they leak at all. This will also make the fuel pump work
harder, especially if the normal vent can't keep up with the pressure loss out
the top. And if gas can get out, then rain can get in.
>
> Fuel caps shouldn't leak.
I certainly agree that caps should not leak. But, all of these caps installed on
RV-10's seem to do this. I can't imagine it is an o ring problem when this seems
to be a fleet problem limited to RV-10's. So, I would lean towards the design
defect, except that it does not seem to be a problem on other types of aircraft.
(that I know of)
Interestingly enough, My airplane has had to sit out in significant rain a few
times and I have never had one drop of water in my fuel samples. Ever.
I am zeroing in on the RV-10 tank vent design because I cannot think of anything
else at this point. I hope somebody on the forum has some insight on this issue.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370263#370263
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Seatbelts - lap belt adjusters |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi Marcus
Tanks for your feedback I guess you are right it will make pulling the belt tight
easier.
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370274#370274
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust installation plan |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Ok the right right muffler is mounted an it worked out perfectly.
However the left one doesn't work at all because the metal muffler bracing either
is not wide enough when bent to achieve the necessary height to keep the exhaust
pipe up. Or it interferes with the heating duct.
Not sure if I am the only one with this issue and what is wrong.
Any ideas anyone.
Regards
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370276#370276
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Vent/Newton Fuel Caps |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
We have the Newton caps. We fill up after every flight but we leave each tank down
by 2 gallons. We do this so it doesn't vent out the normal vents onto the
floor. There isn't much expansion room in these tanks.
I've heard of fuel coming out the key hole but if it happens to us it's very rare.
I very much doubt you would loose a meaningful amount of fuel. I've never
seen any water get in.
--Dave Saylor
1015 hrs
On Apr 7, 2012, at 23:44, "dmaib(at)me.com" wrote:
>
>
> Bob Turner wrote:
>> I don't have these caps but it sounds to me as if there is a design defect,
or perhaps an O ring that needs replacing.
>>
>> Since the fuel caps are on the top of the wing, a low pressure area, they will
siphon fuel out if they leak at all. This will also make the fuel pump work
harder, especially if the normal vent can't keep up with the pressure loss out
the top. And if gas can get out, then rain can get in.
>>
>> Fuel caps shouldn't leak.
>
>
> I certainly agree that caps should not leak. But, all of these caps installed
on RV-10's seem to do this. I can't imagine it is an o ring problem when this
seems to be a fleet problem limited to RV-10's. So, I would lean towards the
design defect, except that it does not seem to be a problem on other types of
aircraft. (that I know of)
>
> Interestingly enough, My airplane has had to sit out in significant rain a few
times and I have never had one drop of water in my fuel samples. Ever.
>
> I am zeroing in on the RV-10 tank vent design because I cannot think of anything
else at this point. I hope somebody on the forum has some insight on this
issue.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> Transition Trainer
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370263#370263
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust installation plan |
Yep - same problem with my left side.
I ended up cutting the lower hanger bolt (the one on the end of the cable) and
snugging up the brackets such that I had the shortest overall length between the
bent hanger and the exhaust attach point. Cutting the lower bolt is needed
as the end hits the exhaust attach point long before you run out of threads.
I also mounted the bent hanger as high as possible. Combined these solved the
problem.
Carl
First engine start - next week.
On Apr 8, 2012, at 8:20 AM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
> Ok the right right muffler is mounted an it worked out perfectly.
>
> However the left one doesn't work at all because the metal muffler bracing either
is not wide enough when bent to achieve the necessary height to keep the
exhaust pipe up. Or it interferes with the heating duct.
>
> Not sure if I am the only one with this issue and what is wrong.
>
> Any ideas anyone.
>
> Regards
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370276#370276
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Vent/Newton Fuel Caps |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Leaving the tank down enough to keep the fuel from contacting the bottom of the
caps does work, but I would really like to be able to get the tanks close to
full when leaving on a long cross country.
I agree that the amount of fuel vented is not significant, but it makes a mess
on the wing with the blue dye. Full tanks will definitely lose fuel through the
vent tubes as fuel expands with rising temperatures. I've seen that happen on
many different airplanes.
I may try modifying my vent tubes with a couple of coils, like my tip tank vent
tubes. I can't see why that should make a difference, but I guess it is worth
a try.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370287#370287
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/exclusivevids/ExclusiveVideo_SunNFun2012_DiemechDieselEngine_206389-1.html
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370344#370344
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turboprop RV10 |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
So you are going to switch to this and need to dispose of your
Lycasaurus to fund this. Of course W&B and fuel capacity will need
some minor adjustments.
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 9:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/exclusivevids/ExclusiveVideo_SunNFun2012_DiemechDieselEngine_206389-1.html
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370344#370344
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turboprop RV10 |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Not for me thanks. Just thought it was interesting. The 210k cost difference,
fuel burn difference, insurance difference, etc, just doesn't add up to me.
Not that anything in aviation makes sense, but if gotta have a turbine, you can
buy an MU-2 for the cost of that motor.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370347#370347
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turboprop RV10 |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I didn't see it at SNF, but I'm surprised at the weight - only 128 pounds before
accessories. A 17 to 1 gear reduction, so the gearbox should be included in
the 128 pounds.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370370#370370
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <adrian.moses(at)syngenta.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Spruce Story Contest |
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/kits/0aircraftstories.html
Rv-10 dedication story
Adrian Moses 719AM
Flying 167 hrs
This message may contain confidential information. If you are not the desig
nated recipient, please notify the sender immediately, and delete the origi
nal and any copies. Any use of the message by you is prohibited.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed
off the entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch
with 3/8 inch bulb seals he used.
I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I
do, there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually
touch and seal against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and
the door would be too large.
His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a
difference there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full
radius on the gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
Hi Sean
There is a very big difference - I believe it is the colour.
Cheers
Les
Ps. I was told by someone who knows that there really isn't any difference.
Sent from my iPhone
On 2012-04-09, at 6:48 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed off the
entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch with 3/8 inch
bulb seals he used.
>
> I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I do,
there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually touch and seal
against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and the door would be too
large.
>
> His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a difference
there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full radius on the
gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Sean,
Part of installing the seal is to build up the area on both sides of the old gutter
rail. Once you cut it flat it needs to be extended out and thickened both
on the inside and the out. Ultimately, the seal will be about 50% compressed
when you are complete. Here is how my seal fits.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370413#370413
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1396_198.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
There are differences, but they arent significant. The pink tops are slightly
better finished. Only important if you aren't using a headliner.
There appears to be two different pink top molds, as well as the green mold, that
have the step up behind the front seat line in different places. it makes
delivering an after market overhead more difficult.
I'm not aware of any differences around the door gutter.
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 9, 2012, at 9:17 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Sean
>
> There is a very big difference - I believe it is the colour.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> Ps. I was told by someone who knows that there really isn't any difference.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-04-09, at 6:48 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>>
>> I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed off the
entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch with 3/8 inch
bulb seals he used.
>>
>> I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I do,
there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually touch and seal
against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and the door would be
too large.
>>
>> His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a difference
there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full radius on
the gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Be careful on ordering the trim. If I remember Les's doc, the picture showed a
version of the seal with the barb on the exterior. You'll want the version that
has the barb on the inside of the door frame. You don't want the barb to add
thickness to the seal into between the free and the door.
Go to Ivan Kristense's phanfare.com photo site. In the middle o f his door photos,
there is a video showing in detail how to trim the door gutter.
I cut off the full radius and my doors are very tight fitting with the seals on.
I have a pink top.
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 9, 2012, at 8:48 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed off the
entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch with 3/8 inch
bulb seals he used.
>
> I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I do,
there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually touch and seal
against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and the door would be too
large.
>
> His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a difference
there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full radius on the
gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
Hi Again
Bob is right about my seals. That being said, I did make mine work. I am not sure
if the barb orientation makes a significant difference but would probably go
with the inside barb if I was doing things again.
Cheers
Les
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2012-04-09, at 8:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Be careful on ordering the trim. If I remember Les's doc, the picture showed
a version of the seal with the barb on the exterior. You'll want the version
that has the barb on the inside of the door frame. You don't want the barb to
add thickness to the seal into between the free and the door.
>
> Go to Ivan Kristense's phanfare.com photo site. In the middle o f his door
photos, there is a video showing in detail how to trim the door gutter.
>
> I cut off the full radius and my doors are very tight fitting with the seals
on. I have a pink top.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 9, 2012, at 8:48 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>>
>> I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed off the
entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch with 3/8 inch
bulb seals he used.
>>
>> I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I do,
there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually touch and seal
against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and the door would be
too large.
>>
>> His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a difference
there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full radius on
the gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
Ivan's pictures were a big help. After looking at them and the video it
seems like the following rough steps can be taken.
- Once the doors are trimmed to fit, mark the interior edge of the
gutter for a consistent gap (less than 3/8 for the bulb)
- Sand down the radius to marks on interior edge of gutter and trim/sand
gutter width to dimensions at various locations given by Ivan
- Fill/sand to achieve necessary gutter thickness of 1/4 inch for
attaching seal
Thanks for pointing me to Ivan's pictures.
-Sean
On 4/9/12 9:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Bob Leffler
>
> Be careful on ordering the trim. If I remember Les's doc, the picture showed
a version of the seal with the barb on the exterior. You'll want the version
that has the barb on the inside of the door frame. You don't want the barb to
add thickness to the seal into between the free and the door.
>
> Go to Ivan Kristense's phanfare.com photo site. In the middle o f his door
photos, there is a video showing in detail how to trim the door gutter.
>
> I cut off the full radius and my doors are very tight fitting with the seals
on. I have a pink top.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 9, 2012, at 8:48 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>>
>> I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed off the
entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch with 3/8 inch
bulb seals he used.
>>
>> I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I do,
there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually touch and seal
against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and the door would be
too large.
>>
>> His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a difference
there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full radius on
the gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
We were the first to use the McM seal. We started a grinder and added a spa
cer for even reveal. Seemed to work out well on the old top.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
Ivan's pictures were a big help. After looking at them and the video it se
ems like the following rough steps can be taken.
- Once the doors are trimmed to fit, mark the interior edge of the gutter f
or a consistent gap (less than 3/8 for the bulb)
- Sand down the radius to marks on interior edge of gutter and trim/sand gu
tter width to dimensions at various locations given by Ivan
- Fill/sand to achieve necessary gutter thickness of 1/4 inch for attaching
seal
Thanks for pointing me to Ivan's pictures.
-Sean
On 4/9/12 9:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Bob Leffler
>
> Be careful on ordering the trim. If I remember Les's doc, the picture sh
owed a version of the seal with the barb on the exterior. You'll want the
version that has the barb on the inside of the door frame. You don't want t
he barb to add thickness to the seal into between the free and the door.
>
> Go to Ivan Kristense's phanfare.com photo site. In the middle o f his d
oor photos, there is a video showing in detail how to trim the door gutter.
>
> I cut off the full radius and my doors are very tight fitting with the se
als on. I have a pink top.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 9, 2012, at 8:48 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean
>> --> Stephens
>>
>> I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed o
ff the entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch with
3/8 inch bulb seals he used.
>>
>> I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I
do, there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually touc
h and seal against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and the door
would be too large.
>>
>> His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a d
ifference there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full rad
ius on the gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
That all sounds about right. Getting the barb on the right side helps.
Two other things:
If you plan any sort of fabric covering for the door, you have to account for that
in the bulb gap. Flightline's interior would be an example
Don't trim for final length until you are absolutely finished with the gap work.
Any gap work increases the length of seal. You can patch it, or better yet
just buy the full 50/100 foot length so you can do it 2 or 3 times, then sell
extra to a friend. DAHIK
Bill
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 10, 2012, at 12:15 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Ivan's pictures were a big help. After looking at them and the video it seems
like the following rough steps can be taken.
>
> - Once the doors are trimmed to fit, mark the interior edge of the gutter for
a consistent gap (less than 3/8 for the bulb)
> - Sand down the radius to marks on interior edge of gutter and trim/sand gutter
width to dimensions at various locations given by Ivan
> - Fill/sand to achieve necessary gutter thickness of 1/4 inch for attaching seal
>
> Thanks for pointing me to Ivan's pictures.
>
> -Sean
>
> On 4/9/12 9:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Bob Leffler
>>
>> Be careful on ordering the trim. If I remember Les's doc, the picture showed
a version of the seal with the barb on the exterior. You'll want the version
that has the barb on the inside of the door frame. You don't want the barb to
add thickness to the seal into between the free and the door.
>>
>> Go to Ivan Kristense's phanfare.com photo site. In the middle o f his door
photos, there is a video showing in detail how to trim the door gutter.
>>
>> I cut off the full radius and my doors are very tight fitting with the seals
on. I have a pink top.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Apr 9, 2012, at 8:48 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>>>
>>> I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed off
the entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch with 3/8 inch
bulb seals he used.
>>>
>>> I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I do,
there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually touch and
seal against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and the door would be
too large.
>>>
>>> His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a difference
there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full radius on
the gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> -Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turboprop RV10 |
| From: | "tahoe9813" <benboatright(at)gmail.com> |
I saw it at SnF. It was pretty impressive, and there was a ton of room around the
engine--especially the back.
I would love to have one, but I think it might be a bit pricey.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370430#370430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
I used the McMaster seals as well, but did the following:
After grinding the gutter lip down, I took a scrap piece of door seal about
3 foot long and filled it (about 50% full) with epoxy/structural filler mix
and applied it to the door frame. When cured I had the perfect mating
detail for the door seal as part of the cabin top. Step and repeat
around the door frame opening then discard the scrap seal and use new seal
for the final installation.
The following album has the details, seal pictures start about 1/3 of
the way into the album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/aviator1964/DoorsLatchesSeals?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Bob Newman
N541RV flying
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Watson
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 7:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
That all sounds about right. Getting the barb on the right side helps.
Two other things:
If you plan any sort of fabric covering for the door, you have to account
for that in the bulb gap. Flightline's interior would be an example
Don't trim for final length until you are absolutely finished with the gap
work. Any gap work increases the length of seal. You can patch it, or
better yet just buy the full 50/100 foot length so you can do it 2 or 3
times, then sell extra to a friend. DAHIK
Bill
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 10, 2012, at 12:15 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Ivan's pictures were a big help. After looking at them and the video it
> seems like the following rough steps can be taken.
>
> - Once the doors are trimmed to fit, mark the interior edge of the gutter
> for a consistent gap (less than 3/8 for the bulb)
> - Sand down the radius to marks on interior edge of gutter and trim/sand
> gutter width to dimensions at various locations given by Ivan
> - Fill/sand to achieve necessary gutter thickness of 1/4 inch for
> attaching seal
>
> Thanks for pointing me to Ivan's pictures.
>
> -Sean
>
> On 4/9/12 9:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Bob Leffler
>>
>> Be careful on ordering the trim. If I remember Les's doc, the picture
>> showed a version of the seal with the barb on the exterior. You'll want
>> the version that has the barb on the inside of the door frame. You don't
>> want the barb to add thickness to the seal into between the free and the
>> door.
>>
>> Go to Ivan Kristense's phanfare.com photo site. In the middle o f his
>> door photos, there is a video showing in detail how to trim the door
>> gutter.
>>
>> I cut off the full radius and my doors are very tight fitting with the
>> seals on. I have a pink top.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Apr 9, 2012, at 8:48 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>>>
>>> I've read Les' document on using McMaster Carr door seals. He trimmed
>>> off the entire radius on the door gutter. I ordered the same 1/4 inch
>>> with 3/8 inch bulb seals he used.
>>>
>>> I have yet to trim off the full radius as he did, but it seems that if I
>>> do, there will me no way the 3/8 inch bulb will be enough to actually
>>> touch and seal against the door. Seems the gap between the gutter and
>>> the door would be too large.
>>>
>>> His doc showed the older green canopy instead of the pink. Is there a
>>> difference there? Did others using the McMaster seals trim off the full
>>> radius on the gutter and have it work with the 3/8 inch bulb?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> -Sean #40303 (very dim light at the end of the tunnel)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
We each build our own airplanes and make our own decisions please dont take this
as criticism just food for thought. I had a conversation with Ken K. regarding
drilling holes in the gutter in order to add sun visors the cabin top, specifically
the cabin top posts. Ken indicated that one of the challenges in the
design was getting the cabin top to pass the inverted drop test. He was visibly
uncomfortable with the idea of drilling any holes in the gutter to mount
visors, for those who have had conversations with Ken K. in person you may know
the wince he gives.
By removing the entire inside radius of the gutter in order to install the McMaster
Carr style seal you are significantly changing the section modulus of the
cabin top post and COULD be significantly increasing the likelihood of a cabin
top failure in a roll over type accident. Just something to consider as you
make what may seem to be a harmless improvement to the design.
Again, these are your decisions I am only trying to provide an alternate perspective
to the decision.
Thanks Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370434#370434
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Maybe it's obvious, but maybe not... After cutting the door edges flush and sanding,
I used an ~18" section of door seal as a mold. Filling each section with
structural epoxy made for a really tight fit and minimal additional prep work
to get the seal right. Just add cosmetic filler to blend into the cabin top and
door edges. I bought lots more edge than required as it tends to get tired
and look wavy after fitting lots of times (you can see some of that in the photos).
Save the good stuff for the end.
Regards,
Jay
finishing up
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370436#370436
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20110910_115316_138.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0911_134.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0913_351.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0915_141.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I ran into the same problem with fabric covering the door - I didn't account for
it and ended up with the door seal too tight, so I had to trim the fabric short.
As a side note, everyone please try to size down your photos before posting, it
takes too much side scrolling to read the message. All it takes is one huge photo.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370444#370444
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Length of the shoulder harness sections |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Sorry to bring this thread up again but I really need to know what the length,
especially of the top part of the harness needs to be. Is 17 inch a correct assumption?
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (interior & finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370508#370508
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Length of the shoulder harness sections |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
There is an adjustment buckle near the attachment point. Adjust them to suit, and
if there is too much tag end, get an upholstery shop to cut it off and restitch
a new tag end.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370541#370541
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for an RV10 |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I am helping a friend in his search to purchase an RV10. I'm also helping
another widow of a friend sell her late husbands -10. This plane has not
been advertised and is seriously being considered by my friend. The obvious
thing that would come to mind would be to steer him to the local -10. But
since this is his 1st airplane purchase, and because he is my friend, I
want him to look at as many options as possible before deciding. If you
know of someone who is selling or interested in selling their plane, please
email me or have them email me offline. I'm aware of all of the -10's that
are advertised on the major sites. No brokers. Owners/builders only. I have
a pretty good idea of what the condition of the aircraft market is now
(soft), and my friend is not a deep pockets buyer.
Thanks for your help
Deems Davis
www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lee Otto" <lotto(at)ciembroidery.com> |
Hi all,
I'm working on assembling my engine baffles using Van's stock baffle kit
on a stock IO-540. The space behind number 6 cylinder is so small I'm
wondering how to get this left aft baffle section set into the area
around the left upper engine mount while at the same time tucking it
behind the number 6 cylinder. Anyone else have this problem? In search
of an idea...
Lee Otto
RV-10 Builder
Finishing this year or bust.
lotto(at)ciembroidery.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles |
IIRC, you have to do a little bot of bending/distorting of the piece to
get it in there and then it fits nicely. It's quite tight getting it in,
but once it's in there isn't any strain on it.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Apr 12, 2012, at 12:31 PM, Lee Otto wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm working on assembling my engine baffles using Van's stock baffle
kit on a stock IO-540. The space behind number 6 cylinder is so small
I'm wondering how to get this left aft baffle section set into the area
around the left upper engine mount while at the same time tucking it
behind the number 6 cylinder. Anyone else have this problem? In search
of an idea...
>
> Lee Otto
> RV-10 Builder
> Finishing this year or bust.
>
> lotto(at)ciembroidery.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
It's awkward at best. A combination on twisting and pushing will get it on.
While I can't remember the exact procedure, once you figure it out it beco
mes more predictable and repeatable. I remember being simililar level of fr
ustration
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 12, 2012, at 12:31 PM, "Lee Otto" wrote:
Hi all,
I'm working on assembling my engine baffles using Van's stock baffle kit on a
stock IO-540. The space behind number 6 cylinder is so small I'm wondering
how to get this left aft baffle section set into the area around the left u
pper engine mount while at the same time tucking it behind the number 6 cyli
nder. Anyone else have this problem? In search of an idea...
Lee Otto
RV-10 Builder
Finishing this year or bust.
lotto(at)ciembroidery.com
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mr Luther Strickland <lljjss22(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: EFIS Product Update |
For the Aerosonic/OP Technology EFIS owners that haven't seen this.
=C2-
From: Strickland, L Jearl <LJS2(at)pge.com>
Subject: Fw: EFIS Product Update
Date: Thursday, April 12, 2012, 3:33 PM
-------------------------
=C2-
From: Ken Martin [mailto:KMartin(at)aerosonic.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 09:53 AM
Subject: EFIS Product Update
=C2-
On behalf of Mark Perkins =93 Executive Vice President
=C2-
=C2-
Dear Aviator
=C2-
=C2-
In 2007 Aerosonic purchased the Op Tech display product line with the inten
tion of completing any further development that may have been required to o
btain FAA certification. Our business plan at that time reflected a market
need for an affordable, highly capable alternative to existing display syst
ems aimed at the general aviation market. In the years since that transacti
on much has happened both in our industry and within our company. Shortly a
fter the transaction we suffered a devastating fire that destroyed a large
part of our facility and impacted our ability to produce nearly every produ
ct that we supply to our many valued civil and military customers. After se
veral years of hard work we have now recovered from that tragedy however mu
ch has changed.
=C2-
The market for general aviation and business aircraft remains depressed and
recovery still appears to be several years in the future. The Flight Displ
ay competitive landscape has grown from a few manufactures to many with new
advanced technologies, improved capabilities and enhanced features.
=C2-
For these reasons we have made a business decision to discontinue further d
evelopment and certification efforts on the Op Tech Flight Display product.
Our intention going forward is to focus on our core products.=C2- We are
actively looking for a buyer for the Op Tech product line whose current bu
siness model would be enhanced by the addition of this product.
=C2-
Support for current owners of these display systems is available through Av
iation Instrument Technologies Inc (AITI).in Zephyrhills Fl. 39520 Aviation
Ave., Zephyrhills, FL 33542.=C2-=C2- Phone: 813.783.3361 www.aircrafti
nstruments.com . AITI has inventory, test equipment and associated document
ation to service these systems and has been trained to provide immediate su
pport.=C2- In the future please direct any units that require repair to A
ITI. All products that are currently at our facility for repair or update w
ill be completed by us and returned within the next 3 to 4 weeks. Should yo
u have any questions please contact me at 727-461-3000 ext 133.
=C2-
=C2-
Sincerely,
=C2-
=C2-
Mark Perkins
Executive Vice President=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
Ken Martin
Field Service Engineer
Aerosonic Corporation
(727) 461-3000, ext. 174
kmartin(at)aerosonic.com
=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Giving due consideration to the desirability of keeping the gutter,
one has to consider the other weather striping options. The stock Vans
stuff doesn't look all that hot. Other suggestions?
On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 5:35 AM, jkreidler
wrote:
> By removing the entire inside radius of the gutter in order to install the McMaster
Carr style seal you are significantly changing the section modulus of the
cabin top post and COULD be significantly increasing the likelihood of a cabin
top failure in a roll over type accident. Just something to consider as you
make what may seem to be a harmless improvement to the design.
>
> Again, these are your decisions I am only trying to provide an alternate perspective
to the decision.
>
> Thanks Jason
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone considered or fitted manual trim in an RV10 to eliminate any runaway
trim issues, give infinite fine trim capability & just reduce electric complexity.
[Rolling Eyes]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370655#370655
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Kelly, we used seals made by Abby at Flightline Interiors. They are custom made
to match the interior colors, in our case she made them from light grey material.
They look great, match, and work.we also attached them to the door just
a bit differently. We had Velcro sewn to the back of the seal, then attached
Velcro to the door. This way we could adjust the seal as required, that has
proven to work fine (370 hours). No pictures handy,sorry - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370658#370658
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Greg,
I just ran across the manual elevator trim option last week while I'm on
this detour helping guys build RV-8's. I was amazed at how simple it was.
I asked if anyone had tried it on the RV-10. He didn't know, but our guess
is that the -8 uses only one tab and it's a small one vs. the -10's two
tabs. I never have liked the idea of funky cams and twisted tail effect on
the -10, but with the correct alignment it works OK. If you'd like, I can
track down the hardware for the manual -8 ... perhaps there is an adaptor
to split the cable for the two tabs, or you could be the
inventor/experimenter.
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg McFarlane
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 6:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Manual Trim
Has anyone considered or fitted manual trim in an RV10 to eliminate any
runaway trim issues, give infinite fine trim capability & just reduce
electric complexity. [Rolling Eyes]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Lew, I was thinking more along the lines of keeping the "funky" cam and
just replacing the servo with a "normal" Vans manual type cable set up. [Rolling
Eyes]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370660#370660
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Intersection Fairings for RV10 |
All,
I need to finish the wheel pants - and the top and bottom intersection
fairing from Van's are so bad that I either need to spend a lot of time
reworking them or buy replacements.
I note that Cleaveland tool sells these fairings:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10IF4
They look to be the same product as:
http://rvbits.mybigcommerce.com/products/RV10-INTERSECTION-FAIRINGS.html
I also heard the fairings Van's is now sending out are better.
Recommendations?
Carl
First engine start tomorrow..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I installed a pitch trim enable push button next to my panel mounted rocker. No
relays, trim speed controllers and definitely no runaways. KISS. One would have
severe cramping in your arm if you had to fly very far. Yes it is sensitive
at cruise...just don't tap the rocker long. Once trimmed close at cruise my AP
takes care of it and will let me know if I need to retrim. I love the setup,
cost and will even more when it breaks.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08
40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011
N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 41
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370664#370664
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Here is a source if you are looking for one...
http://www.periheliondesign.com/moreproducts.htm
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370665#370665
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
I used the ones on this page.
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html
They work great for me.....a little pricy.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
Giving due consideration to the desirability of keeping the gutter, one has
to consider the other weather striping options. The stock Vans stuff doesn't
look all that hot. Other suggestions?
On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 5:35 AM, jkreidler
wrote:
> -->
> By removing the entire inside radius of the gutter in order to install the
McMaster Carr style seal you are significantly changing the section modulus
of the cabin top post and COULD be significantly increasing the likelihood
of a cabin top failure in a roll over type accident. Just something to
consider as you make what may seem to be a harmless improvement to the
design.
>
> Again, these are your decisions I am only trying to provide an alternate
perspective to the decision.
>
> Thanks Jason
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I just install my auto trim this annual. Works great, wish I had done it in
the beginning. Thos trutrak guys are great.
If you go manual trim, you lose that option.
YMMV
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lewgall(at)charter.net
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Manual Trim
Hey Greg,
I just ran across the manual elevator trim option last week while I'm on
this detour helping guys build RV-8's. I was amazed at how simple it was.
I asked if anyone had tried it on the RV-10. He didn't know, but our guess
is that the -8 uses only one tab and it's a small one vs. the -10's two
tabs. I never have liked the idea of funky cams and twisted tail effect on
the -10, but with the correct alignment it works OK. If you'd like, I can
track down the hardware for the manual -8 ... perhaps there is an adaptor
to split the cable for the two tabs, or you could be the
inventor/experimenter.
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg McFarlane
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 6:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Manual Trim
-->
Has anyone considered or fitted manual trim in an RV10 to eliminate any
runaway trim issues, give infinite fine trim capability & just reduce
electric complexity. [Rolling Eyes]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings for RV10 |
Carl, I had a problem with one of mine.... can't remember what it was... ma
ybe I lost it..... anyway, I ended up making up one from scratch fitting it
right to the bottom of the plane.=C2- It's lighter and fits perfectly...
should have done them both.=C2- Just used clay.=0ADon=0A =0A=0A_________
_______________________=0A From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net
>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, April 13, 2012 7:41 AM=0AS
ubject: RV10-List: Intersection Fairings for RV10=0A =0A=0AAll,=0A=C2-
=0AI need to finish the wheel pants =93 and the top and bottom inters
ection fairing from Van=99s are so bad that I either need to spend a
lot of time reworking them or buy replacements.=0A=C2-=0AI note that Clea
veland tool sells these fairings:=C2- http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/
prodinfo.asp?number=RV10IF4=0AThey look to be the same product as: http:/
/rvbits.mybigcommerce.com/products/RV10-INTERSECTION-FAIRINGS.html=0A=C2-
=0AI also heard the fairings Van=99s is now sending out are better.
=0A=C2-=0ARecommendations?=0A=0ACarl=0AFirst engine start tomorrow
================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings for RV10 |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Cleveland does resell Jan's fairings. I just got a pair and there is no com
parison with the set I got from Vans. My wife has been assisting with sandi
ng filler. Once she saw the state of the Vans fairing, she immediately agree
d it was a worthwhile investment.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 13, 2012, at 8:41 AM, "Carl Froehlich" w
rote:
All,
I need to finish the wheel pants =93 and the top and bottom intersecti
on fairing from Van=99s are so bad that I either need to spend a lot o
f time reworking them or buy replacements.
I note that Cleaveland tool sells these fairings: http://www.cleavelandtool
store.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10IF4
They look to be the same product as: http://rvbits.mybigcommerce.com/product
s/RV10-INTERSECTION-FAIRINGS.html
I also heard the fairings Van=99s is now sending out are better.
Recommendations?
Carl
First engine start tomorrow.
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
If you are referring to pitch trim; my auto trim works in auto when the AP
is in actively drving the aircraft. During manual control of the aircraft
the trim switch works. I also fashioned a plug so that it reconnects the
completely manual system if the auto pitch trim must be removed for
maintenance; the aircraft is still operational.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 6:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Manual Trim
I just install my auto trim this annual. Works great, wish I had done it in
the beginning. Thos trutrak guys are great.
If you go manual trim, you lose that option.
YMMV
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lewgall(at)charter.net
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Manual Trim
Hey Greg,
I just ran across the manual elevator trim option last week while I'm on
this detour helping guys build RV-8's. I was amazed at how simple it was.
I asked if anyone had tried it on the RV-10. He didn't know, but our guess
is that the -8 uses only one tab and it's a small one vs. the -10's two
tabs. I never have liked the idea of funky cams and twisted tail effect on
the -10, but with the correct alignment it works OK. If you'd like, I can
track down the hardware for the manual -8 ... perhaps there is an adaptor
to split the cable for the two tabs, or you could be the
inventor/experimenter.
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg McFarlane
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 6:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Manual Trim
-->
Has anyone considered or fitted manual trim in an RV10 to eliminate any
runaway trim issues, give infinite fine trim capability & just reduce
electric complexity. [Rolling Eyes]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Intersection Fairings for RV10 |
Trim to fit; new fairings just like the old. I replaced one after a bird
strike.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Intersection Fairings for RV10
All,
I need to finish the wheel pants - and the top and bottom intersection
fairing from Van's are so bad that I either need to spend a lot of time
reworking them or buy replacements.
I note that Cleaveland tool sells these fairings:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10IF4
They look to be the same product as:
http://rvbits.mybigcommerce.com/products/RV10-INTERSECTION-FAIRINGS.html
I also heard the fairings Van's is now sending out are better.
Recommendations?
Carl
First engine start tomorrow..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | ADSB In Coverage |
I am trying to determine if the ADSB In only receivers will get the
weather info from a broadcast tower all the time. I have heard that
the tower needs to be in contact with a ADSB Out aircraft before it
will send the weather info. Thanks Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
Just a note that TT send out the plug mentioned below with the AutoTrim
now, so there's no need to make one yourself. One was supplied with my
AutoTrim purchase.
-Sean #40303 (Fitting Doors)
On 4/13/12 8:37 AM, DLM wrote:
>
> If you are referring to pitch trim; my auto trim works in auto when
> the AP is in actively drving the aircraft. During manual control of
> the aircraft the trim switch works. I also fashioned a plug so that it
> reconnects the completely manual system if the auto pitch trim must be
> removed for maintenance; the aircraft is still operational.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 6:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Manual Trim
>
>
> I just install my auto trim this annual. Works great, wish I had done
> it in
>
> the beginning. Thos trutrak guys are great.
>
> If you go manual trim, you lose that option.
>
> YMMV
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> N423CF
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>
> lewgall(at)charter.net
>
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 5:59 AM
>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Manual Trim
>
>
> Hey Greg,
>
> I just ran across the manual elevator trim option last week while I'm on
>
> this detour helping guys build RV-8's. I was amazed at how simple it
> was.
>
> I asked if anyone had tried it on the RV-10. He didn't know, but our
> guess
>
> is that the -8 uses only one tab and it's a small one vs. the -10's two
>
> tabs. I never have liked the idea of funky cams and twisted tail
> effect on
>
> the -10, but with the correct alignment it works OK. If you'd like, I can
>
> track down the hardware for the manual -8 ... perhaps there is an adaptor
>
> to split the cable for the two tabs, or you could be the
>
> inventor/experimenter.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Greg McFarlane
>
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 6:36 AM
>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Manual Trim
>
>
> -->
>
> Has anyone considered or fitted manual trim in an RV10 to eliminate any
>
> runaway trim issues, give infinite fine trim capability & just reduce
>
> electric complexity. [Rolling Eyes]
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
Thanks Rene',
That looks like the easiest solution, should eliminate a lot of rework
of the gutter.
On 4/13/2012 6:00 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker"
>
> I used the ones on this page.
>
> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html
>
> They work great for me.....a little pricy.
>
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 11:03 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
> Giving due consideration to the desirability of keeping the gutter, one has
> to consider the other weather striping options. The stock Vans stuff doesn't
> look all that hot. Other suggestions?
>
> On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 5:35 AM, jkreidler
> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "jkreidler"
>> -->
>> By removing the entire inside radius of the gutter in order to install the
> McMaster Carr style seal you are significantly changing the section modulus
> of the cabin top post and COULD be significantly increasing the likelihood
> of a cabin top failure in a roll over type accident. Just something to
> consider as you make what may seem to be a harmless improvement to the
> design.
>> Again, these are your decisions I am only trying to provide an alternate
> perspective to the decision.
>> Thanks Jason
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings for RV10 |
I've always wondered if they are fiberglass or some other form of plastic.
Do you know what they are made of?
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 13, 2012, at 8:35 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> Cleveland does resell Jan's fairings. I just got a pair and there is no c
omparison with the set I got from Vans. My wife has been assisting with san
ding filler. Once she saw the state of the Vans fairing, she immediately agr
eed it was a worthwhile investment.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 13, 2012, at 8:41 AM, "Carl Froehlich"
wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I need to finish the wheel pants =93 and the top and bottom intersec
tion fairing from Van=99s are so bad that I either need to spend a lot
of time reworking them or buy replacements.
>
> I note that Cleaveland tool sells these fairings: http://www.cleavelandto
olstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10IF4
> They look to be the same product as: http://rvbits.mybigcommerce.com/produ
cts/RV10-INTERSECTION-FAIRINGS.html
>
> I also heard the fairings Van=99s is now sending out are better.
>
> Recommendations?
>
> Carl
> First engine start tomorrow.
>
>
> =========================
=========
> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> =========================
=========
> cs.com
> =========================
=========
> matronics.com/contribution
> =========================
=========
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Intersection Fairings for RV10 |
Make your own.
Collision wrap
Black Christy's plumbing tape
Modeling clay
Release wax
7 once loose weave fiberglass
3 once satin weave fiberglass.
West Systems slow set epoxy
Aluminum sheet flashing
Use the wheel faring=2C the leg faring and the underside of the fuselage as
your mold in addition to the above items.
The parts come out perfect=2C fit like a glove and are light and do not cra
ck like the ones Van's sells because with the Van's ones you need to use so
much filler to make the fit. Filler is weak=2C heavy and looks like crap.
John G 409. Engine run up. Plane complete including paint=2C 98 percent don
e!
From: carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net
Subject: RV10-List: Intersection Fairings for RV10
Date: Fri=2C 13 Apr 2012 08:41:14 -0400
All=2C I need to finish the wheel pants ' and the top and bottom intersec
tion fairing from Van=92s are so bad that I either need to spend a lot of t
ime reworking them or buy replacements. I note that Cleaveland tool sells t
hese fairings: http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV
10IF4They look to be the same product as: http://rvbits.mybigcommerce.com/p
roducts/RV10-INTERSECTION-FAIRINGS.html I also heard the fairings Van=92s i
s now sending out are better. Recommendations?
CarlFirst engine start tomorrow=85.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
We're very happy with the foam seals that Alex sells. Straightforward installation,
expecially compared to the rest of the door work.... :-)]
http://www.aviationtechproducts.com
John Ackerman
40458
On Apr 12, 2012, at 10:02 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Giving due consideration to the desirability of keeping the gutter,
> one has to consider the other weather striping options. The stock Vans
> stuff doesn't look all that hot. Other suggestions?
>
> On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 5:35 AM, jkreidler
> wrote:
>
>> By removing the entire inside radius of the gutter in order to install the McMaster
Carr style seal you are significantly changing the section modulus of
the cabin top post and COULD be significantly increasing the likelihood of a cabin
top failure in a roll over type accident. Just something to consider as
you make what may seem to be a harmless improvement to the design.
>>
>> Again, these are your decisions I am only trying to provide an alternate perspective
to the decision.
>>
>> Thanks Jason
>
>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals |
Love'em too. Simple and I've flown with them in past. They're quite tight and
I couldn't find any leaks anywhere in the door. I made a point to look for them
while we were in route.
They're great.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 13, 2012, at 11:38 AM, John Ackerman wrote:
>
> We're very happy with the foam seals that Alex sells. Straightforward installation,
expecially compared to the rest of the door work.... :-)]
>
> http://www.aviationtechproducts.com
>
> John Ackerman
> 40458
>
>
> On Apr 12, 2012, at 10:02 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>>
>> Giving due consideration to the desirability of keeping the gutter,
>> one has to consider the other weather striping options. The stock Vans
>> stuff doesn't look all that hot. Other suggestions?
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 5:35 AM, jkreidler
>> wrote:
>>
>>> By removing the entire inside radius of the gutter in order to install the
McMaster Carr style seal you are significantly changing the section modulus of
the cabin top post and COULD be significantly increasing the likelihood of a
cabin top failure in a roll over type accident. Just something to consider as
you make what may seem to be a harmless improvement to the design.
>>>
>>> Again, these are your decisions I am only trying to provide an alternate perspective
to the decision.
>>>
>>> Thanks Jason
>>
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings for RV10 |
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
If you have a Trio autopilot with auto trim, not only does it trim when you use
the autopilot; you can also use the trim function when hand-flying the aircraft.
And, it is programable to run fast at low airspeeds, slow at high airspeeds.
I use it all the time in cruise when hand-flying, for fine adjustments to the
trim.
Also, it is a workaround against a stuck trim "hat" switch. (pull trim CB, you
can still trim thru the autopilot). Negative side, if the trim runs away, you
need to pull both the trim and the autopilot CB's and then trouble-shoot where
the problem is. For this reason I have those breakers side by side, directly
in front of me.
Of course it is still electrical; if the motors, wires to the motors, or battery
fails, there's no trim.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370723#370723
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADSB In Coverage |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My understanding is that Jesse is correct.
Weather is just broadcast.
The ground station only sends out traffic that is near aircraft that it knows are
listening. And it know they're listening only if they're sending an ADS-B signal
out. If it knows about no aircraft listening, no traffic is sent. If another
aircraft is near you AND that aircraft is sending out the ADS-B out signal,
then the ground station will send out traffic that it knows about around that
airplane, and you may get that information even though you're just listening.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370726#370726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I've found the easiest way to trim for any climb, descent or for level
flight is to simply engage the TT AP. If I want to hand fly at that
point (??), I just disconnect the TT and there we are.
With that said, trimming "manually" with the trim button could hardly be
easier.
Bill
On 4/13/2012 9:02 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker"
>
> I just install my auto trim this annual. Works great, wish I had done it in
> the beginning. Thos trutrak guys are great.
>
> If you go manual trim, you lose that option.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fitting Fairings to the Fuselage, how I do it...... |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I am resending this as there have been a lot of talk about fuselage
intersection fairings..... Do not use filler to fit the fairings, use
filler to fill the pin holes and minor imperfections....
I hope this helps......
------ Forwarded Message
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 22:12:11 -0400
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Conversation: Fitting Fairing to the Fuselage, how I do it......
Subject: Fitting Fairing to the Fuselage, how I do it......
Here is a better description of how I fit my fairings..... Can be used
for the gear leg to fuse, gear leg to wheel pant, or rear empennage
intersection fairing.
* Rough cut and dry fit up fairing to airplane. Drill #30 holes in
locations where screws will eventually hold fairing to fuselage. When
satisfied with the fit, draw a marker line on the fuselage around perimeter
of fairing. Remove fairing.
* Use mold release (I use the car wax stuff from Aircraft Spruce) and wipe
it all over the fuselage about 2-4=B2 or more around both sides of the line
you drew. DO NOT FORGET TO DO THIS STEP OR YOU WILL VERY UNHAPPY!!
* Scuff up inside of fairing with 36-40 grit sandpaper on all surfaces wher
e
they will come into contact with the fuselage.
* Clean fairings real good with acetone or similar to remove any
dust/dirt/residue/mold release, etc
* Work on one side of one fairing at a time (for instance, if you are
working on the upper fuselage to gear leg intersection fairing, work on the
fuselage to fairing interface first. Second time around work on the fairin
g
to gear leg interface). Lay up 2-3 layers of approximately 9 oz cloth on
the fuselage over the line drawn in step 1.
* Mix up flox and epoxy to a peanut butter consistency and apply about
1/16=B2-1/8=B2 onto the fairing surface that mates to the fuselage. This will
help fill any gaps that may be present due to poorly formed fairings.
* Mash the fairing onto the fuselage in position. Use
cleco=B9s/clamps/screws/whatever you desire to hold it in place exactly where
you want it until dry.
*
* Once dry, use compressed air to blow it free from the fuselage. Its
amazing how well the compressed air works. Just get a little spot to break
free, then blow air in the spot and the whole thing will pop off pretty
easily.
* Clean the fuselage up with a plastic scraper and acetone and clean real
well.
* Trim the fairing edge as desired to get a smooth edge.
*
* Repeat the process for the other side of the same fairing. For this
example, that would be the upper gear leg to fairing surface (or the lower
line as described above). DON=B9T FORGET THE MOLD RELEASE ON THE SURFACE YOU
DON=B9T WANT IT BONDED TOO!
*
* Once complete, fill and sand, and fill, and sand, and fill, and sand unti
l
it is smooth to your satisfaction.
For the rear empannage intersection fairing, I followed the same process,
but layed up the HS to fairing surface first, then the VS to fairing surfac
e
second.
I hope this is not too confusing. It is actually quite easy, just takes
time.....especially in the Michigan winters when even fast drying epoxy
takes 2 days to cure!
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying and Sold
RV-10 Flying
------ End of Forwarded Message
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
If anyone has replaced the U-1004B wheel nut extensions with something more substantial
to alleviate the failure which will happen when using rough airstrips,
then a good use for the original extensions is to drill completely through the
length of them then cut them up to make the six U-1008 brake spacers. Much
better material for the spacers than the soft ATS-058 tube called for in the plans.
[pages 46-4 & 46-5 in plans] 8)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370771#370771
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake Spacers |
| From: | "charliewaffles" <mcooper(at)live.com> |
Best to go with one of the solid options like this:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RVAE10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370778#370778
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Spacers |
They are solid and agree with Charlie, better to go this route than try
anything else.
I was fortunate to get the Don McDonald spacers. He made a certain amount
and are now carried by Plane Innovations
http://www.planeinnovations.com/axlesbrackets.html, if you scroll down the
webpage there are a couple of other items, again Don specials that I also
have and they have been great for the seatbelts, passenger side never
dropped out in the air when not in use.
As a side note, I have the steel heater bypass
http://www.planeinnovations.com/heaterbypass.html. From experience, they
block all the heat and I dont have a tunnel heat issue, not sure they are
related but I know from testing that the aluminum ones from the kit leak and
these dont. There is a deflector that covers the door when closed which
helps block the forced air.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: charliewaffles
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 8:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake Spacers
Best to go with one of the solid options like this:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RVAE10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370778#370778
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Spacers |
Hey Guys,
I think you may have missed Greg's point -- he has replaced the axel
extension as you have, and is using the old extension for brake spacers.
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: Pascal
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Brake Spacers
They are solid and agree with Charlie, better to go this route than try
anything else.
I was fortunate to get the Don McDonald spacers. He made a certain amount
and are now carried by Plane Innovations
http://www.planeinnovations.com/axlesbrackets.html, if you scroll down the
webpage there are a couple of other items, again Don specials that I also
have and they have been great for the seatbelts, passenger side never
dropped out in the air when not in use.
As a side note, I have the steel heater bypass
http://www.planeinnovations.com/heaterbypass.html. From experience, they
block all the heat and I dont have a tunnel heat issue, not sure they are
related but I know from testing that the aluminum ones from the kit leak and
these dont. There is a deflector that covers the door when closed which
helps block the forced air.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: charliewaffles
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 8:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake Spacers
Best to go with one of the solid options like this:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RVAE10
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 transition training |
All,
Looks like the FSDO will be out the first week or so in May to sign off the
RV-10 project. My insurance requires 2 hours of transition time in an RV-10
with a CFI. While I know the Van's guy in Dallas is available, I would
prefer something closer to home (Fredericksburg, Virginia).
Any RV-10 CFI guy/gals out there on this side of the Mississippi willing to
help me out?
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
My insurance gave me two options 1) Oregon 2) Texas both Vans signed off
=9Cofficial RV-10 Cfi=99s=9D. I didn=99t care as
I had my training in Texas, but make sure the 2 hours is with any Cfi
and not the signed off ones. I asked when I called EAA for the quote-is
was pretty clear it HAD to be with the signed off cfi=99s and not
my neighbor who was a Cfi that owned a RV-10.
Sounds like you have this covered however.
From: Carl Froehlich
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 3:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 transition training
All,
Looks like the FSDO will be out the first week or so in May to sign off
the RV-10 project. My insurance requires 2 hours of transition time in
an RV-10 with a CFI. While I know the Van=99s guy in Dallas is
available, I would prefer something closer to home (Fredericksburg,
Virginia).
Any RV-10 CFI guy/gals out there on this side of the Mississippi willing
to help me out?
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph <hooverra(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Mid-AtlRVwing] RV-10 transition training |
Carl,
You may try Chip Locke at St Mary's may be able to help, not sure he is a CFI
but he probably knows one.
Ralph
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 14, 2012, at 6:31 PM, "Carl Froehlich" w
rote:
> All,
>
>
>
> Looks like the FSDO will be out the first week or so in May to sign off th
e RV-10 project. My insurance requires 2 hours of transition time in an RV-
10 with a CFI. While I know the Van=99s guy in Dallas is available, I
would prefer something closer to home (Fredericksburg, Virginia).
>
>
>
> Any RV-10 CFI guy/gals out there on this side of the Mississippi willing t
o help me out?
>
>
> Carl
>
> __._,_.___
> Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post | Start a New Topic
> Messages in this topic (1)
> RECENT ACTIVITY:
> Visit Your Group
> Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest =A2 Unsubscribe =A2 Terms o
f Use
> .
>
> __,_._,___
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
Carl, I did my transition training with Dave Maib in New Smyrna
Beach, FL. It was a great experience and I certainly would highly
recommend Dave=99s training services.
Bob Newman
N541RV
60 hrs.
From: Carl Froehlich
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 6:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 transition training
All,
Looks like the FSDO will be out the first week or so in May to sign off
the RV-10 project. My insurance requires 2 hours of transition time in
an RV-10 with a CFI. While I know the Van=99s guy in Dallas is
available, I would prefer something closer to home (Fredericksburg,
Virginia).
Any RV-10 CFI guy/gals out there on this side of the Mississippi willing
to help me out?
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Mid-AtlRVwing] RV-10 transition training |
WWVwLCBTdC4gTWFyeSdzIHdhcyBwbGFuIEEsIGJ1dCByaWdodCBub3cgdGhhdCBpcyBub3QgYXZh
aWxhYmxlIGFuZCBubyBsaW5lIG9mIHNpZ2h0IG9uIHdoZW4gaXQgd2lsbC4KCkNhcmwKClNlbnQg
ZnJvbSBteSBwaG9uZS7CoCBQbGVhc2UgcmVhZCBwYXNzIHRoZSB0eXBvcy4KCi0tLS0tT3JpZ2lu
YWwgbWVzc2FnZS0tLS0tCkZyb206IFJhbHBoIDxob292ZXJyYUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldD4KVG86ICJN
aWQtQXRsUlZ3aW5nQHlhaG9vZ3JvdXBzLmNvbSIgPE1pZC1BdGxSVndpbmdAeWFob29ncm91cHMu
Y29tPgpDYzogIjxydjEwLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbT4iIDxydjEwLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNz
LmNvbT4sICI8TWlkLUF0bFJWd2luZ0B5YWhvb2dyb3Vwcy5jb20+IiA8TWlkLUF0bFJWd2luZ0B5
YWhvb2dyb3Vwcy5jb20+ClNlbnQ6IFNhdCwgQXByIDE0LCAyMDEyIDIzOjExOjQ1IEdNVCswMDow
MApTdWJqZWN0OiBSZTogW01pZC1BdGxSVndpbmddIFJWLTEwIHRyYW5zaXRpb24gdHJhaW5pbmcK
CkNhcmwsCllvdSBtYXkgdHJ5IENoaXAgTG9ja2UgYXQgU3QgTWFyeSdzIG1heSBiZSBhYmxlIHRv
IGhlbHAsIG5vdCBzdXJlIGhlIGlzIGEgQ0ZJIGJ1dCBoZSBwcm9iYWJseSBrbm93cyBvbmUuIAoK
UmFscGgKClNlbnQgZnJvbSBteSBpUGFkCgpPbiBBcHIgMTQsIDIwMTIsIGF0IDY6MzEgUE0sICJD
YXJsIEZyb2VobGljaCIgPGNhcmwuZnJvZWhsaWNoQHZlcml6b24ubmV0PiB3cm90ZToKCj4gQWxs
LAo+IAo+ICAKPiAKPiBMb29rcyBsaWtlIHRoZSBGU0RPIHdpbGwgYmUgb3V0IHRoZSBmaXJzdCB3
ZWVrIG9yIHNvIGluIE1heSB0byBzaWduIG9mZiB0aGUgUlYtMTAgcHJvamVjdC4gIE15IGluc3Vy
YW5jZSByZXF1aXJlcyAyIGhvdXJzIG9mIHRyYW5zaXRpb24gdGltZSBpbiBhbiBSVi0xMCB3aXRo
IGEgQ0ZJLiAgV2hpbGUgSSBrbm93IHRoZSBWYW7igJlzIGd1eSBpbiBEYWxsYXMgaXMgYXZhaWxh
YmxlLCBJIHdvdWxkIHByZWZlciBzb21ldGhpbmcgY2xvc2VyIHRvIGhvbWUgKEZyZWRlcmlja3Ni
dXJnLCBWaXJnaW5pYSkuCj4gCj4gIAo+IAo+IEFueSBSVi0xMCBDRkkgZ3V5L2dhbHMgb3V0IHRo
ZXJlIG9uIHRoaXMgc2lkZSBvZiB0aGUgTWlzc2lzc2lwcGkgd2lsbGluZyB0byBoZWxwIG1lIG91
dD8KPiAKPiAKPiBDYXJsCj4gCj4gCgo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
Carl
I spent a couple of days with David in early March. It was a great experienc
e.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2012-04-14, at 5:26 PM, bob-tcw wrote:
> Carl, I did my transition training with Dave Maib in New Smyrna Beach,
FL. It was a great experience and I certainly would highly recommend Dav
e=99s training services.
>
> Bob Newman
> N541RV
> 60 hrs.
>
>
> From: Carl Froehlich
> Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 6:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com ; Mid-AtlRVwing(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 transition training
>
> All,
>
> Looks like the FSDO will be out the first week or so in May to sign off th
e RV-10 project. My insurance requires 2 hours of transition time in an RV-
10 with a CFI. While I know the Van=99s guy in Dallas is available, I
would prefer something closer to home (Fredericksburg, Virginia).
>
> Any RV-10 CFI guy/gals out there on this side of the Mississippi willing t
o help me out?
>
> Carl
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Carl, send me an email or PM. I should be able to help with your Transition Training.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370830#370830
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Carl,
I seen to recall Mitch Lock, Van's East Coast rep in Maryland, was providing transition
training. It might be worth and e-mail or call to find out for sure:
mitchl(at)vansaircraft.com, 240.427.8847
Let me know the results because I'll be needing transition training soon myself
and would prefer something local as well being just up I-95 from you.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370840#370840
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
Todd,
That was Plan A - using the Van's RV-10 at St. Mary's in Maryland (about
10min by air from my place - VA42). Chip Lock told me this was no longer
available.
Swing by Dogwood and you can look over the project if you like.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 transition training
Carl,
I seen to recall Mitch Lock, Van's East Coast rep in Maryland, was providing
transition training. It might be worth and e-mail or call to find out for
sure: mitchl(at)vansaircraft.com, 240.427.8847
Let me know the results because I'll be needing transition training soon
myself and would prefer something local as well being just up I-95 from you.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370840#370840
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
There are several very qualified cfi's providing transition training. I actually
decided to change cfi when somebody reconfigured their panel to something very
similar to mine. For me, I decided the transition training would be more
beneficial using the same efis and autopilot I have in my panel. Just something
you may want to consider besides geographic location.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 15, 2012, at 9:18 AM, "tsts4" wrote:
Carl,
I seen to recall Mitch Lock, Van's East Coast rep in Maryland, was providing transition
training. It might be worth and e-mail or call to find out for sure:
mitchl(at)vansaircraft.com, 240.427.8847
Let me know the results because I'll be needing transition training soon myself
and would prefer something local as well being just up I-95 from you.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370840#370840
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Bob,
Good point on the equipment. I'd like to transition with at least the same EFIS.
But first thing first, does anyone have a list of all the CFIs providing RV-10
transition training? If we collectively can come up with one perhaps we
can their avionics so pilots can have that info to help inform their choice.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370858#370858
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | intersection farings, bad fit, bad filler, home made is better |
I used the term filler to describe a mixture of epoxy=2C chopped glass=2C c
otton flox=2C micro ballons- mixed in varing concentrations to make the sol
ution fill in gaps between where the faring is warped due to poor molding o
r removal from mold prior to full cure. You vary the cancentrations of each
component to make it strong and as light as possible. However=2C because t
he farings are built so poorly=2C they still come out leaving you with a de
sire for something more.
The included photos and the prior email I wrote decribe the materials used
to make your own. The thin aluminum flashing is used as a parting line off
the back of all intersection farings. you insert it between the gear leg fa
ring trailing edge.
The top faring is made from scratch. The bottom was Van's stock. The bottom
required so much work and they got so thick and heavy that I did them from
scratch on the top.
The top ones in these photos are only being held in place by their fit=2C n
o screws=2C tape or adheasive. They are light=2C thin=2C and strong and fit
perfectly because they were made on the plane.
The photos may be uploaded out of order.
John 409
intersection farings=2C bad fit=2C bad filler=2C home made is better
View photos Download all
You are invited to view John's album. This album has 10 files.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
Bob,
Do you have a list of these CFI?
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 transition training
There are several very qualified cfi's providing transition training. I
actually decided to change cfi when somebody reconfigured their panel to
something very similar to mine. For me, I decided the transition training
would be more beneficial using the same efis and autopilot I have in my
panel. Just something you may want to consider besides geographic location.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 15, 2012, at 9:18 AM, "tsts4" wrote:
Carl,
I seen to recall Mitch Lock, Van's East Coast rep in Maryland, was providing
transition training. It might be worth and e-mail or call to find out for
sure: mitchl(at)vansaircraft.com, 240.427.8847
Let me know the results because I'll be needing transition training soon
myself and would prefer something local as well being just up I-95 from you.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370840#370840
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I don't have list that is compiled. I think most of them are pretty well know.
I am going with Alex D. Since he is the. My one that I am aware of that has
an AFS panel. David Maib and Pierre Smith are the only other east coast ones
that I'm aware. Also, be forewarned I know that several are considering stopping
due insurance rates increasing this year for loda trainers.
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 15, 2012, at 1:46 PM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Do you have a list of these CFI?
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 10:36 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 transition training
>
>
> There are several very qualified cfi's providing transition training. I
> actually decided to change cfi when somebody reconfigured their panel to
> something very similar to mine. For me, I decided the transition training
> would be more beneficial using the same efis and autopilot I have in my
> panel. Just something you may want to consider besides geographic location.
>
>
>
> Bob
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 15, 2012, at 9:18 AM, "tsts4" wrote:
>
>
> Carl,
> I seen to recall Mitch Lock, Van's East Coast rep in Maryland, was providing
> transition training. It might be worth and e-mail or call to find out for
> sure: mitchl(at)vansaircraft.com, 240.427.8847
>
> Let me know the results because I'll be needing transition training soon
> myself and would prefer something local as well being just up I-95 from you.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
> www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370840#370840
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Sort of a follow up on Bob's post:
I'm a cfii, and I went to the trouble of getting a letter of deviation authority
(LODA) from the local FSDO allowing me to give transition training in my RV-10.
Jenny at NationAir thought that I'd be acceptable to insurance companies.
However, I've been quoted an extra $2K, above and beyond what I pay now, for the
insurance. I'm just not sure the market in the Bay area (I'm at KLVK, 30 miles
east of SFO) can support that, financially, so I've held off on any advertising.
I was able to add my next-door hangar pilot to my existing policy for a
not-outrageous rate, so I will give him the instruction. I'd be curious to know
how many pilots, in a typical year, seek out or need RV-10 type-specific training.
As you are probably aware, CFI's are limited to that in their own airplanes.
No flight reviews, no IPCs, etc.
As to this thread: I wouldn't put too much weight on having the same EFIS. The
thrust of this training is really basic VFR piloting. I'd say what's more important,
can you land the plane if the EFIS totally quits? Which it may do on a
first flight. In a few hours of dual you really want to concentrate on making
flying the plane second nature, so that, when you do have your first flight,
you can be familiar enough with the flying that you can also look at engine instruments,
scan for traffic, etc. Once you're out of phase 1 then hire an instructor,
if need be, to instruct you in your plane, using your EFIS, autopilot,
GPS navigator, etc.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370893#370893
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
I trained 5 pilots at no charge except fuel; I was able to temporarily add
them to my insurance as named while training at no additional expense. If
you decide to try the LODA route your bucket can not be full (as a retiree,
mine was); the ability to provide specific endorsements, for example, high
performance or complex airplane (a normal result of transition training),
may not be acceptable in the LODA. I concur with the EFIS comment;
transition training is basic "fly the airplane" stuff, not button pushing.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 2:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 transition training
Sort of a follow up on Bob's post:
I'm a cfii, and I went to the trouble of getting a letter of deviation
authority (LODA) from the local FSDO allowing me to give transition training
in my RV-10. Jenny at NationAir thought that I'd be acceptable to insurance
companies. However, I've been quoted an extra $2K, above and beyond what I
pay now, for the insurance. I'm just not sure the market in the Bay area
(I'm at KLVK, 30 miles east of SFO) can support that, financially, so I've
held off on any advertising. I was able to add my next-door hangar pilot to
my existing policy for a not-outrageous rate, so I will give him the
instruction. I'd be curious to know how many pilots, in a typical year, seek
out or need RV-10 type-specific training. As you are probably aware, CFI's
are limited to that in their own airplanes. No flight reviews, no IPCs, etc.
As to this thread: I wouldn't put too much weight on having the same EFIS.
The thrust of this training is really basic VFR piloting. I'd say what's
more important, can you land the plane if the EFIS totally quits? Which it
may do on a first flight. In a few hours of dual you really want to
concentrate on making flying the plane second nature, so that, when you do
have your first flight, you can be familiar enough with the flying that you
can also look at engine instruments, scan for traffic, etc. Once you're out
of phase 1 then hire an instructor, if need be, to instruct you in your
plane, using your EFIS, autopilot, GPS navigator, etc.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370893#370893
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
"I was able to temporarily add them to my insurance as named while training at
no additional expense"
Wow! That's what I've done too but it was not at no extra cost. Can you say who
you use as agent and what insurance company?
You're right about training in an experimental aircraft which the cfi provides,
for compensation or hire: The FAA will not allow anything other than "transition
training". Even though you accomplish all the things that would normally be
done in a Flight Review, or for a High Performance endorsement, my LODA explicitly
forbids me from signing off on these things.
(PS As I'm sure you know, a complex endorsement requires a retractable, so it's
not applicable to a -10 anyway).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370905#370905
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I did my training with David Maib and highly recommend him. I spent 5.8 hours learning
to fly the plane. Well worth the money.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08
40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011
N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 41
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370909#370909
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10-List User Name |
| From: | Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
Hi Matt,
Sorry to bother you, but I'm wanting to resurrect an RV-10 archive topic and I
can't find my Username to log on.
My previous messages appear under the name Gordon Anderson from e-mail address
"mregoan(at)hispeed.ch" but I can't find myself on the member list under any of
the obvious names (Anderson, Gordon, mregoan). Is there any way you can help
me find out the username?
Thanks a lot!
Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing wiring / bushing size |
| From: | "Tom Biggs" <rv10(at)tmbiggs.com> |
I am working on the left wing and am to the point where I need to drill the holes
for the snap bushings for pulling wires. I want to do this BEFORE I put the
ribs on the spar to rivet. The question is, what size bushings do I need? I have
HID landing light wires all the way to the end, I will have heated pitot tube
wires to where the pitot tube mounts (I know that Tim mounted his a bit further
out, I will have wires running to the Trutrak servos.......
How big a bushing did you need to start?
Did you mount the HID landing light wires through the same bushing?
what about the ones for the pitot tube heat?
Curious what solutions were used.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370961#370961
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Wing wiring / bushing size |
I used conduit and no bushings. Sorry I do not remember the whole size. I
think it is in the Archives.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Biggs
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 11:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing wiring / bushing size
I am working on the left wing and am to the point where I need to drill the
holes for the snap bushings for pulling wires. I want to do this BEFORE I
put the ribs on the spar to rivet. The question is, what size bushings do I
need? I have HID landing light wires all the way to the end, I will have
heated pitot tube wires to where the pitot tube mounts (I know that Tim
mounted his a bit further out, I will have wires running to the Trutrak
servos.......
How big a bushing did you need to start?
Did you mount the HID landing light wires through the same bushing?
what about the ones for the pitot tube heat?
Curious what solutions were used.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370961#370961
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing wiring / bushing size |
Plastic water pipe (not PVC) from the aviation department at Lowes. Light and
tough. 3/4" hole. The pipe is big enough for all the runs you listed, and a
coax line for a wing tip NAV antenna.
Carl
On Apr 16, 2012, at 1:23 PM, "Rene Felker" wrote:
>
> I used conduit and no bushings. Sorry I do not remember the whole size. I
> think it is in the Archives.
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Biggs
> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 11:01 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Wing wiring / bushing size
>
>
> I am working on the left wing and am to the point where I need to drill the
> holes for the snap bushings for pulling wires. I want to do this BEFORE I
> put the ribs on the spar to rivet. The question is, what size bushings do I
> need? I have HID landing light wires all the way to the end, I will have
> heated pitot tube wires to where the pitot tube mounts (I know that Tim
> mounted his a bit further out, I will have wires running to the Trutrak
> servos.......
> How big a bushing did you need to start?
> Did you mount the HID landing light wires through the same bushing?
> what about the ones for the pitot tube heat?
>
> Curious what solutions were used.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370961#370961
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer |
I am on my second; the first lasted about 500 hours; the second has lasted
about 50 hours. They begin to fail by showing fuel pressures that are
abnormally high intermittently. Anyone else has a similar problem?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer |
Yep, I am on my 3rd. one. I have just over 215 TT. Sure wish they were
more robust!!
Thane States
RV-10
----- Original Message -----
From: DLM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 8:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer
I am on my second; the first lasted about 500 hours; the second has
lasted about 50 hours. They begin to fail by showing fuel pressures
that are abnormally high intermittently. Anyone else has a similar
problem?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/16/12
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer |
I am a yes also, lost my first one at about 70 hours..the second is still
going strong at 150 hours.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 5:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer
Yep, I am on my 3rd. one. I have just over 215 TT. Sure wish they were more
robust!!
Thane States
RV-10
----- Original Message -----
From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 8:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer
I am on my second; the first lasted about 500 hours; the second has lasted
about 50 hours. They begin to fail by showing fuel pressures that are
abnormally high intermittently. Anyone else has a similar problem?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing wiring / bushing size |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Go to the VAF forums, this thread
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=75694&highlight=wing+wiring
for a complete discussion......
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371027#371027
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing wiring / bushing size |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I used SB625-7 in ribs 1-11. I used SB500-6 in ribs 12-15. Once I dropped roll
servo wiring in right wing and pitot heat/stall warning wiring in left wing, size
can be reduced. I have DW hid's and Whelen strobes. I can barely hear hid's
start up at idle and no noise after 15 seconds. No noise heard from strobes
unless engine is off. No noise from anything else. Yes, I used airframe ground
for everything. All my wires bundled tight with wire ties and no condiut. I
did not want wires vibrating inside of flammable plastic tubing or not having
cooling air across wire bundle. Wires are insulated with Tefzel for a reason.
I installed one spare 18 ga wire per wing. We have removable wing root fairings,
tips and insp panels in case I need to run a new wire.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 05/93 PP 10/08
40983SB 12/1/2009-12/1/2011
N715WD 382nd Flying. TT= 41
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371030#371030
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer |
Sounds like GRT ought to sell the industrial one only with new EIS
shipments. Cheap purchase just means that you get to change them frequently.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer
Yep, I am on my 3rd. one. I have just over 215 TT. Sure wish they were more
robust!!
Thane States
RV-10
----- Original Message -----
From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 8:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer
I am on my second; the first lasted about 500 hours; the second has lasted
about 50 hours. They begin to fail by showing fuel pressures that are
abnormally high intermittently. Anyone else has a similar problem?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
They use them in race cars, too...
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Gauge-Sending-Units/?keyword=VDO
Don't tell them it's for an airplane, however.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371049#371049
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Everyone,
I'm having some custom length vernier cables manufactured by McFarlane and
need some basic measurements from Vans stock cables before I can proceed.
Does anyone have a set of cables that are not installed and who can make
some measurements for me? I had no idea it was this complex of a process.
Attached to this message is the McFarlane spec sheet for their cables.
Once I get the basic measurements from a stock set of cables, I can figure
out the rest. I'll be happy to share all the dimensions for the future
builders so they don't have to go through the process.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
I know the length I need. It is the other intermediate measurements on the document
that are needed.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 17, 2012, at 11:40 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
> Phil use some weedwacker line and route it like you plan to route your cables,
then mark AME measure it.
>
> Sent from my Droid Charge on Verizon 4GLTE
>
> ------Original Message------
> From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
> To:
> Date: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:14:20 AM GMT-0500
> Subject: RV10-List: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier)
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I'm having some custom length vernier cables manufactured by McFarlane and
> need some basic measurements from Vans stock cables before I can proceed.
>
> Does anyone have a set of cables that are not installed and who can make
> some measurements for me? I had no idea it was this complex of a process.
>
> Attached to this message is the McFarlane spec sheet for their cables.
>
> Once I get the basic measurements from a stock set of cables, I can figure
> out the rest. I'll be happy to share all the dimensions for the future
> builders so they don't have to go through the process.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help!
> Phil
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
One caution: I bought the stock cables with the Firewall Forward kit, and they
were not long enough to route as shown in the plans. I made them fit, but it
is a little tighter than I would have liked. And I think I'm not the only one
who has had this problem.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371091#371091
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
That's exactly the reason I'm getting custom length cables made.
On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 2:37 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> One caution: I bought the stock cables with the Firewall Forward kit, and
> they were not long enough to route as shown in the plans. I made them fit,
> but it is a little tighter than I would have liked. And I think I'm not the
> only one who has had this problem.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371091#371091
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer |
I talked with Sandy and Gregg at GRT yesterday; there is a way to determine
whether it is the sensor good or bad with the top cowl off. Mine, however,
is intermittent, I am going to try and clean the terminals to determine
whether my problems currently could be connections. The choices are two: (1)
keep replacing the cheap sensor (I carry an extra with me) or (2) install
the robust one which requires slight changes to the wiring. I will make a
decision on it in a month or so; IIRC the three wires from it go to power,
ground and the sensor. Since the current sensor already has a 4.8V power
interconnection with the sensor line it must be removed which for me means
removing some panel units to find and cut the offending wire.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer
Yep, I am on my 3rd. one. I have just over 215 TT. Sure wish they were more
robust!!
Thane States
RV-10
----- Original Message -----
From: DLM <mailto:dlm34077(at)q.com>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 8:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VDO 360-003 fuel pressure sensor transducer
I am on my second; the first lasted about 500 hours; the second has lasted
about 50 hours. They begin to fail by showing fuel pressures that are
abnormally high intermittently. Anyone else has a similar problem?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John MacCallum" <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
Hi Phil,
I will measure mine for you tonight. I think that I am going to have the
same problem as I have the Aerosport Products Carbon Fibre Panel
and the Cables sit a little lower and a little further rearwards than the
stock support bracket.
Cheers
John MacCallum
#41016
VH-DUU
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2012 1:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier)
Hi Everyone,
I'm having some custom length vernier cables manufactured by McFarlane and
need some basic measurements from Vans stock cables before I can proceed.
Does anyone have a set of cables that are not installed and who can make
some measurements for me? I had no idea it was this complex of a process.
Attached to this message is the McFarlane spec sheet for their cables.
Once I get the basic measurements from a stock set of cables, I can figure
out the rest. I'll be happy to share all the dimensions for the future
builders so they don't have to go through the process.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
John, check out the third to last post in this thread from Ivan. Phil,
there may be some info in there for you also.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321568
-Sean #40303 (fitting doors)
On 4/18/12 2:23 AM, John MacCallum wrote:
>
> Hi Phil,
>
> I will measure mine for you tonight. I think that I am going to have
> the same problem as I have the Aerosport Products Carbon Fibre Panel
>
> and the Cables sit a little lower and a little further rearwards than
> the stock support bracket.
>
> Cheers
>
> John MacCallum
>
> #41016
>
> VH-DUU
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Phillip Perry
> *Sent:* Wednesday, 18 April 2012 1:14 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture
> (Vernier)
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I'm having some custom length vernier cables manufactured by McFarlane
> and need some basic measurements from Vans stock cables before I can
> proceed.
>
> Does anyone have a set of cables that are not installed and who can
> make some measurements for me? I had no idea it was this complex of a
> process.
>
> Attached to this message is the McFarlane spec sheet for their cables.
>
> Once I get the basic measurements from a stock set of cables, I can
> figure out the rest. I'll be happy to share all the dimensions for
> the future builders so they don't have to go through the process.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help!
> Phil
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks John...
Sean, I've seen that post and I'm using those lengths for my final lengths,
but there are a few more measurements that McFarlane is looking for and I
can't get them without having my hands on a set of controls to measure.
Phil
On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 7:45 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> John, check out the third to last post in this thread from Ivan. Phil,
> there may be some info in there for you also.
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/**viewtopic.php?p=321568>
>
> -Sean #40303 (fitting doors)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh motorhome |
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
I wanted to post here first.
I just cancelled this motorhome because I received a trailer rental that will be
delivered to my campsite. This is there last one. Just thought I would post
here if anyone is interested.
http://www.wisconsinrvworld.com/custompage2.asp?pg=31krental
-Scott
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
| Subject: | iPad in the cockipt |
iPad users:
I'm more inclined to have the iPad in the RV-10 cockpit up in front by the
dash somewhere, rather than as a kneeboard.
What experience have others had? Is a RAM mount clamped on the edge of the
glareshield rigid enough? Other mounting ideas?
Tim
N52KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: iPad in the cockipt |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Tim,
I have mine mounted on the tunnel just in front of the fuel valve.
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 18, 2012, at 1:51 PM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" wrote:
> iPad users:
>
> I'm more inclined to have the iPad in the RV-10 cockpit up in front by the
dash somewhere, rather than as a kneeboard.
>
> What experience have others had? Is a RAM mount clamped on the edge of th
e glareshield rigid enough? Other mounting ideas?
>
> Tim
> N52KS
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Video: Pipistrel Panthera Revealed |
| From: | "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/exclusivevids/ExclusiveVideo_Aero2012_PipistrelPanthera_206547-1.html
Wow, this will be interesting. Looks like another 4-seat plane similar to the -10
and Cirrus.
Jae
--------
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371174#371174
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPad in the cockipt |
Any though given to mounting it to the center post along the
windscreen? It could double as a sun visor.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Apr 18, 2012, at 11:12 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
> Tim,
> I have mine mounted on the tunnel just in front of the fuel valve.
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 18, 2012, at 1:51 PM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" > wrote:
>
>> iPad users:
>>
>> I'm more inclined to have the iPad in the RV-10 cockpit up in front
>> by the dash somewhere, rather than as a kneeboard.
>>
>> What experience have others had? Is a RAM mount clamped on the
>> edge of the glareshield rigid enough? Other mounting ideas?
>>
>> Tim
>> N52KS
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video: Pipistrel Panthera Revealed |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
200 kts on 10gph!
1000nm range
No price mentioned
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:31 PM, "jchang10" wrote:
>
> http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/exclusivevids/ExclusiveVideo_Aero2012_PipistrelPanthera_206547-1.html
>
> Wow, this will be interesting. Looks like another 4-seat plane similar to the
-10 and Cirrus.
>
> Jae
>
> --------
> #40533 RV-10
> First flight 10/19/2011
> Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371174#371174
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video: Pipistrel Panthera Revealed |
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
Avweb listed it as $500,000
On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 1:41 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> 200 kts on 10gph!
> 1000nm range
> No price mentioned
>
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:31 PM, "jchang10"
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/exclusivevids/ExclusiveVideo_Aero2012_PipistrelPanthera_206547-1.html
> >
> > Wow, this will be interesting. Looks like another 4-seat plane similar
> to the -10 and Cirrus.
> >
> > Jae
> >
> > --------
> > #40533 RV-10
> > First flight 10/19/2011
> > Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371174#371174
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video: Pipistrel Panthera Revealed |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Sexy airplane. I don't know about the economics...
$390K for 200knot/10gph airplane is quite a lot.
I could fly the RV-10 a lifetime before ever breaking even. That doesn't
even include the costs of maintaining/insuring a retract either.
Very sexy, but I just don't think it makes sense when compared to what the
-10 offers. It's pretty much the ultimate in performance, carrying
capacity, and economics. (Even though RV-10's aren't cheap)
I'd like to see more details like stalling speed, etc. I suspect it's
really really high. Like Lancair high.
Phil
On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 1:31 PM, jchang10 wrote:
>
>
> http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/exclusivevids/ExclusiveVideo_Aero2012_PipistrelPanthera_206547-1.html
>
> Wow, this will be interesting. Looks like another 4-seat plane similar to
> the -10 and Cirrus.
>
> Jae
>
> --------
> #40533 RV-10
> First flight 10/19/2011
> Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371174#371174
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video: Pipistrel Panthera Revealed |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
They said 350,000 Euros ($459,000 USD) for a certificated version, 300,000
euros ($393,000 USD) for a kit version.
On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 1:41 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> 200 kts on 10gph!
> 1000nm range
> No price mentioned
>
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:31 PM, "jchang10"
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/exclusivevids/ExclusiveVideo_Aero2012_PipistrelPanthera_206547-1.html
> >
> > Wow, this will be interesting. Looks like another 4-seat plane similar
> to the -10 and Cirrus.
> >
> > Jae
> >
> > --------
> > #40533 RV-10
> > First flight 10/19/2011
> > Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371174#371174
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPad in the cockipt |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Virtual Hangar Visit |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Google Plus has something called Hangouts. Basically, it's a very
simple to use group video chat that supports up to 9 people. All you
need is a webcam and an internet connection.
Just for fun, I'm going to create a hangout this evening (4/18/12)
while I'm fiddling with my elevators. I'll make it open to the public
so even people that I don't have in a circle (Google Plus's version of
a group of friends) will be able to join.
So please join in! I'd like to meet more of you guys, and this is the
best (non text based) way to do some hangar flying I can think of
short of actually being there.
My Google Plus page is
https://plus.google.com/u/0/104915858356518723094, or you can just
search Google plus for Ed Kranz. Add me to a circle, as I'd like to
get an RV builders circle together.
( I also posted this on VAF, but I'd really like to "meet" some fellow
-10 builders)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au> |
Thanks Sean and thank you Ivan. I think I will have to go with the 3 "
extension to all the cables. I'm not sure if Vans will take the others back
after 2 years :).
Phil I measured my cables but they don,t have the firewall wear sleeves or
the Clamp reduced diameter Dimension E.
Throttle is 47.5 " Extended Dimension B + C Dim D is 6" (retracted)
Prop 72.5" B + C Extended Dim D is 6 " (retracted)
Mixture 51.5 B + C and D is 6" (retracted)
cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
#41016
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371226#371226
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPad in the cockipt |
I like that!
I'm using a knee board and it's working well but is less than ideal.
My instrument instructor uses a suction cup on the windshield but I
don't see that working for the left seat pilot. Plus I don't like the
idea of blocking out any of the view (ironic since no matter where you
put it, the time spent looking at it effectively blocks the view).
I'm working on a center console to enclose an O2 bottle. I'm thinking
that a hardpoint for a swivel mount that would enable the ipad to hover
over my right knee would be ideal. In the end, that position seems best
since it doesn't block any instruments and is comfortable for right hand
operation.
Bill "old glider guider" Watson
http://youtu.be/JYKubzq9r18
On 4/18/2012 3:11 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> That would be perfect dual sun visor iPads when not using the iPad
> function but needing the visor you just turn on the rear camera and
> you get forward facing view while still blocking the sun. Patent anyone?
>
> Robin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: iPad in the cockipt |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Isn't there an FAR that prohibits sunvisors that block the view out of the windshield?
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371270#371270
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Very Helpful - Thank you!
I'm guessing there wasn't a protective sleeve for the firewall penetration
on the factory cables?
Thanks,
Phil
On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 7:23 PM, maca2790 wrote:
>
> Thanks Sean and thank you Ivan. I think I will have to go with the 3 "
> extension to all the cables. I'm not sure if Vans will take the others
> back
> after 2 years :).
>
> Phil I measured my cables but they don,t have the firewall wear sleeves or
> the Clamp reduced diameter Dimension E.
>
> Throttle is 47.5 " Extended Dimension B + C Dim D is 6" (retracted)
>
> Prop 72.5" B + C Extended Dim D is 6 " (retracted)
>
> Mixture 51.5 B + C and D is 6" (retracted)
>
> cheers
>
> John MacCallum
> VH-DUU
> #41016
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371226#371226
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: iPad in the cockipt |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
"Isn't there an FAR that prohibits sunvisors that block the view out of the windshield?"
Cessna built 1000's of aircraft with solid (like a car) sunvisors, so I think the
answer is "no".
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371320#371320
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Guys, I've just started on the firewall construction. Do any of the
aftermarket (non Vans type) cables require different sized holes through
the firewall recess (F-1001K)?
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 12:03 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Very Helpful - Thank you!
>
> I'm guessing there wasn't a protective sleeve for the firewall penetration
> on the factory cables?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 7:23 PM, maca2790 wrote:
>
>>
>> Thanks Sean and thank you Ivan. I think I will have to go with the 3 "
>> extension to all the cables. I'm not sure if Vans will take the others
>> back
>> after 2 years :).
>>
>> Phil I measured my cables but they don,t have the firewall wear sleeves or
>> the Clamp reduced diameter Dimension E.
>>
>> Throttle is 47.5 " Extended Dimension B + C Dim D is 6" (retracted)
>>
>> Prop 72.5" B + C Extended Dim D is 6 " (retracted)
>>
>> Mixture 51.5 B + C and D is 6" (retracted)
>>
>> cheers
>>
>> John MacCallum
>> VH-DUU
>> #41016
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371226#371226
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au> |
G'day Rick
There are quite a few different options for cables and some do require
larger holes. My QB Fuselage already had the pilot holes drilled into the firewall
for the cables so I'm going with the Vans plans for the holes.
I have sent the cables supplied with the FF back and I will be using the VANS type
cables from Aircraft spruce but 3 inches longer than the original ones supplied
from Vans.
If you have a look at the Aircraft Spruce web page you will get some idea of the
different types available.
Phil, yes your right there were no firewall wear sleeves on Vans Cables.
What they say to do in the Plans is to put an SB500 inside a SB625 and then to
fill it with heat proof RTV.
cheers
John MacCallum
#41016
VH-DUU
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371334#371334
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measurements Needed - Throttle/Prop/Mixture (Vernier) |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Typically not. However there are a variety of devices available to protec
t the cables and to minimize co into the cabin that require different spacin
g if you choose to use them.
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 19, 2012, at 10:57 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Guys, I've just started on the firewall construction. Do any of the after
market (non Vans type) cables require different sized holes through the fire
wall recess (F-1001K)?
>
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 12:03 PM, Phillip Perry wro
te:
> Very Helpful - Thank you!
>
> I'm guessing there wasn't a protective sleeve for the firewall penetration
on the factory cables?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 7:23 PM, maca2790 wrot
e:
>
> Thanks Sean and thank you Ivan. I think I will have to go with the 3 "
> extension to all the cables. I'm not sure if Vans will take the others ba
ck
> after 2 years :).
>
> Phil I measured my cables but they don,t have the firewall wear sleeves or
> the Clamp reduced diameter Dimension E.
>
> Throttle is 47.5 " Extended Dimension B + C Dim D is 6" (retracted)
>
> Prop 72.5" B + C Extended Dim D is 6 " (retracted)
>
> Mixture 51.5 B + C and D is 6" (retracted)
>
> cheers
>
> John MacCallum
> VH-DUU
> #41016
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371226#371226
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ipad in the cockpit |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Just thought to post my old email to the list in reference to iPad
discussions.
Do nt archive.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Date: Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 7:55 PM
Subject: Fwd: RV10-List: iPad Mount update
I decided to relocate my iPad after my a flight test last weekend. I found
the previous location a little too distant for my taste. I think the most
ideal position is at eye level where John Miller has installed his.
Hopefully the Gizmo guys will come up with a panel mount and give those in
process of planning their panel another option.
I swapped the 2" standard clamp leg with a 6" long leg from Ram Mount (they
are great people to deal with) and I think that I like this arrangement
much better. The second picture shows the iPad in it's pilot-exit
configuration. Will post a flight test report this weekend.
Begin forwarded message:
*From: *Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
*Date: *September 13, 2010 6:17:08 PM EDT
*To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject: **RV10-List: iPad Mount*
*Reply-To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com
I finally received my iPad mount from Ram Mounts. It is a good quality and
strong mount.
I used a sheet of aluminum and formed it around the tunnel to use as a
temporary bracket and to mount the iPad. Once flight testing t is
complete, I will most likely remove the extra aluminum bracket and attach
the mount with thru bolts to the tunnel cover.
I have pointed the iPad's charging port up under the panel; so that I can
get a 12V charger and connect it behind the panel to charge continuously
during flights.
Flight test, this weekend.
IMG_0046.JPG
IMG_0047.JPG
--
Rob Kermanj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I noticed my flap leading edge hits my wing top skin in the fully up position just
barely. I know the design of the other RV's necessitate a protective tape
as they are always in contact with the upper skin in any position.
Just curious what other RV-10ers are doing, bending the top skin trailing edge
slightly, or adding a protective tape?
Thanks
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Question |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I put the protective tape on the underside of the top skin instead of the top of
the flap. This way it still doesn't get scratched and the uv doesn't yellow
it.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 21, 2012, at 5:15, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> I noticed my flap leading edge hits my wing top skin in the fully up position
just barely. I know the design of the other RV's necessitate a protective tape
as they are always in contact with the upper skin in any position.
>
> Just curious what other RV-10ers are doing, bending the top skin trailing edge
slightly, or adding a protective tape?
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Question |
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
I have tape on the underside of the top skin to prevent scratches. I also bent
the top skin up just slightly.
Dave Leikam
On Apr 21, 2012, at 7:15 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> I noticed my flap leading edge hits my wing top skin in the fully up position
just barely. I know the design of the other RV's necessitate a protective tape
as they are always in contact with the upper skin in any position.
>
> Just curious what other RV-10ers are doing, bending the top skin trailing edge
slightly, or adding a protective tape?
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Question |
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
ditto bottom of skin
Patrick Thyssen
N15PT
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 21, 2012, at 7:25 AM, Seano wrote:
>
> I put the protective tape on the underside of the top skin instead of the top
of the flap. This way it still doesn't get scratched and the uv doesn't yellow
it.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 21, 2012, at 5:15, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
>>
>> I noticed my flap leading edge hits my wing top skin in the fully up position
just barely. I know the design of the other RV's necessitate a protective tape
as they are always in contact with the upper skin in any position.
>>
>> Just curious what other RV-10ers are doing, bending the top skin trailing edge
slightly, or adding a protective tape?
>>
>> Thanks
>> -Mike
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
I did the top of the flap. My thought was that anything getting stuck
between the tape and the skin will scratch the underside of the wing skin,
not the top of the flap.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2012 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Question
ditto bottom of skin
Patrick Thyssen
N15PT
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 21, 2012, at 7:25 AM, Seano wrote:
>
> I put the protective tape on the underside of the top skin instead of the
top of the flap. This way it still doesn't get scratched and the uv doesn't
yellow it.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 21, 2012, at 5:15, Michael Kraus
wrote:
>
>> -->
>>
>> I noticed my flap leading edge hits my wing top skin in the fully up
position just barely. I know the design of the other RV's necessitate a
protective tape as they are always in contact with the upper skin in any
position.
>>
>> Just curious what other RV-10ers are doing, bending the top skin trailing
edge slightly, or adding a protective tape?
>>
>> Thanks
>> -Mike
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Question |
Mine's under the top skin. But a customer had his tape on the top of the
flap. After a few years the tape got brittle and began to flake off. He
was complaining about a significant rolling moment when he put the flaps
down. I'd seen that on my plane because the flaps were initially a little
out of rig, so that's what we looked for. The rigging was fine so we
cleaned up the flaking tape and that solved the problem--no more roll with
flaps down.
--Dave Saylor
On Sat, Apr 21, 2012 at 5:15 AM, Michael Kraus
wrote:
> >
>
> I noticed my flap leading edge hits my wing top skin in the fully up
> position just barely. I know the design of the other RV's necessitate a
> protective tape as they are always in contact with the upper skin in any
> position.
>
> Just curious what other RV-10ers are doing, bending the top skin trailing
> edge slightly, or adding a protective tape?
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Question |
And what specifically are the type of tapes that are being used??
Thank
Chris
N919AR
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Question
Mine's under the top skin. But a customer had his tape on the top of the flap.
After a few years the tape got brittle and began to flake off. He was complaining
about a significant rolling moment when he put the flaps down. I'd seen
that on my plane because the flaps were initially a little out of rig, so that's
what we looked for. The rigging was fine so we cleaned up the flaking tape
and that solved the problem--no more roll with flaps down.
--Dave Saylor
On Sat, Apr 21, 2012 at 5:15 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
I noticed my flap leading edge hits my wing top skin in the fully up position just
barely. I know the design of the other RV's necessitate a protective tape
as they are always in contact with the upper skin in any position.
Just curious what other RV-10ers are doing, bending the top skin trailing edge
slightly, or adding a protective tape?
Thanks
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
==========
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hi all, I'm in new territory here guys, but do I debur the firewall as I
would a piece of aluminum? Lot's of edges and holes. I expect the
stainless firewall won't stress crack like 2024T3 will, but I'm unsure.
What's the bottom line???
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
Rick,
Yes but for several reasons. One is it will cut the crap out on you in the n
ormal course of the build. Second, although it's not as prone to stress crac
ks as aluminum, smooth the edges to prevent any chance of stress risers. You
can be much more aggressive than aluminum. I've found Dremel sanding barrel
s and carbide cutters work well. Time spent smoothing these edges will save m
any bandaids and painful steel cuts over the long run. Just my humble advic
e, worth everything you paid for it. :D
Rick Sked
Building RV-10 n=C3=BAmero dos!
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 21, 2012, at 7:19 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi all, I'm in new territory here guys, but do I debur the firewall as I w
ould a piece of aluminum? Lot's of edges and holes. I expect the stainless
firewall won't stress crack like 2024T3 will, but I'm unsure.
>
> What's the bottom line???
>
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au> |
Hi all,
To get the Prop Governor to work with the Vans Baffle and cable mounting arrangement
I will have to move the stop plate and the control arm.
Has anyone else done this with their MT Governor?
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
41016
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371520#371520
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT 860 Governor |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Read the directions! There is a right way, and wrong way to do it. If i recall
correctly, basically loosen up the 6 safety wired screws and the assembly rotates.
I would be sure to read the instructions though....
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 22, 2012, at 5:07 PM, "maca2790" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> To get the Prop Governor to work with the Vans Baffle and cable mounting arrangement
I will have to move the stop plate and the control arm.
>
> Has anyone else done this with their MT Governor?
>
> Cheers
>
> John MacCallum
> VH-DUU
> 41016
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371520#371520
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT 860 Governor |
| From: | Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Exactly. I did it, no problems following the very specific directions.
Bill
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 22, 2012, at 5:44 PM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> Read the directions! There is a right way, and wrong way to do it. If i recall
correctly, basically loosen up the 6 safety wired screws and the assembly
rotates. I would be sure to read the instructions though....
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 22, 2012, at 5:07 PM, "maca2790" wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi all,
>> To get the Prop Governor to work with the Vans Baffle and cable mounting arrangement
I will have to move the stop plate and the control arm.
>>
>> Has anyone else done this with their MT Governor?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> John MacCallum
>> VH-DUU
>> 41016
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371520#371520
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT 860 Governor |
| From: | "maca2790" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au> |
Thanks Guys,
yes I have read the Instructions and I worked it out that I have to rotate the
Plate. I guess to be succinct, I should ask has anyone got a photo of what you
did so that I can copy it :)
Cheers
John MacCallum
#41016
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371560#371560
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Question |
Friend of mine is using the loop side of velcro on the underside of the
wing for his RV8 . Less expensive than the tape.
Dr Fred
515FW.
On 4/21/2012 7:39 PM, Chris wrote:
> And what specifically are the type of tapes that are being used??
> Thank
> Chris
> N919AR
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Question
>
> Mine's under the top skin. But a customer had his tape on the top of
> the flap. After a few years the tape got brittle and began to flake
> off. He was complaining about a significant rolling moment when he
> put the flaps down. I'd seen that on my plane because the flaps were
> initially a little out of rig, so that's what we looked for. The
> rigging was fine so we cleaned up the flaking tape and that solved the
> problem--no more roll with flaps down.
>
> --Dave Saylor
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 21, 2012 at 5:15 AM, Michael Kraus
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I noticed my flap leading edge hits my wing top skin in the fully
> up position just barely. I know the design of the other RV's
> necessitate a protective tape as they are always in contact with
> the upper skin in any position.
>
> Just curious what other RV-10ers are doing, bending the top skin
> trailing edge slightly, or adding a protective tape?
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ==========
> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> MS -
> k">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> e -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Question |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)EARTHLINK.NET> |
I used this:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/teflonantichafetape.php
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371595#371595
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Question |
Ahhh! I have an old partial roll of that stuff, so I guess that's what I
will try.
Thanks
-Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 9:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flap Question
I used this:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/teflonantichafetape.php
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371595#371595
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davehead(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | RV10 Training in Calif |
I just completed RV10 transition training with Bob Turner in his RV10; he is located
at the Livermore CA airport in the SF Bay area. If you are located in this
part of the country and will need RV10 training, I highly recommend that you
contact Bob (bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu). He has been flying and instructing for
many years (CFII), is comfortable to fly with and quite knowledgeable about
things airplane. And since he recently retired from Lawrence Livermore Labs
(physicist), his schedule is flexible. Let Bob know if you might be interested;
I think he is investigating future RV10 training insurance options.
Dave Head
RV10 QB
First Flight Imminent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | firewall sealing |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles recess with
pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp sealant for this
purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be beter than pro seal?
Comments??
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
I used some extra biotherm I had left over from buying the firewall
pass-throughs found here...
http://www.planeinnovations.com/firewallkits.html (bottom of page)
I've been looking for a local source for the biotherm 100, but have yet
to find it.
-Sean #40303 (Doors)
On 4/24/12 8:47 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles recess
> with pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp sealant for
> this purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be beter than pro seal?
> Comments??
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
I prefer the high temp RTV personally. I don't like any pro seal in the
engine compartment. Some people have done tests on the pro seal with
high heat and it didn't react well, IIRC. I use black high-temp RTV to
seal the firewall and all other things in the engine compartment.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Apr 24, 2012, at 9:47 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles recess
with pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp sealant for
this purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be beter than pro
seal?
>
> Comments??
>
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Rick,* the area in question deserves the best sealant possible*. RTV is a
cheap and easy solution that does NOT meet the challenge. I installed a
product Desoto Proseal CS-1900 which was a fiberous proseal type
"fire-retandant" sealant with the manufacturers endorsement of higher
temperature. *When your fire annunciator system fails*. * When Your Fire
Suppression system fails*, *your only recourse is to think of Bob Hoover
and pray*. *Dont use RTV*. Time from point of crisis awareness to
remediation is the longest period in your life. FLY the damn aircraft to a
safe landing point.
Fly the aircraft to the accident site and insure that all POBs are safely
away. From the moment of acknowledgement of a fire to the moment of
safety, your actions speak volumes on your instruction and skill as a pilot.
I lost a friend leaving OSH a few years ago that failed to heed those words
in his Lancair Legacy 2000. Thought he could be a HERO.
"From the moment of acknowledgement to the moment of reflection on your
actions , a great pilot knows the aircraft instantly belongs to the
insurance company. Your responsibility is to your passengers, your family
and your brothers-in-arms who love flying after your memorial service.
"Dan Lloyd, I still miss you and pray I follow the wiser choice and don't
place human life on a $ savings on RTV.". CHOOSE WISELY, FLY OFTEN, THINK
ABOUT THOSE WHO WILL FOLLOW.
You guys slay me occasionally on the decision process you follow! DAMN I AM
GETTING OLD.
John #40600
On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 6:47 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles recess
> with pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp sealant for this
> purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be beter than pro seal?
>
> Comments??
>
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Thx all, I am on my way to Aircraft Spruce this morning to pick up a few
things. I probably will buy a tube of Biotherm 100 which is rated to
2000 degrees. I did find a write up on the Plane Innovations web site,
www.planeinnovations.com/firewallkits.html. I will stay away from the
RVT.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Rick, the area in question deserves the best sealant possible. RTV is
a cheap and easy solution that does NOT meet the challenge. I installed
a product Desoto Proseal CS-1900 which was a fiberous proseal type
"fire-retandant" sealant with the manufacturers endorsement of higher
temperature. When your fire annunciator system fails. When Your Fire
Suppression system fails, your only recourse is to think of Bob Hoover
and pray. Dont use RTV. Time from point of crisis awareness to
remediation is the longest period in your life. FLY the damn aircraft to
a safe landing point.
Fly the aircraft to the accident site and insure that all POBs are
safely away. From the moment of acknowledgement of a fire to the
moment of safety, your actions speak volumes on your instruction and
skill as a pilot.
I lost a friend leaving OSH a few years ago that failed to heed those
words in his Lancair Legacy 2000. Thought he could be a HERO.
"From the moment of acknowledgement to the moment of reflection on
your actions , a great pilot knows the aircraft instantly belongs to the
insurance company. Your responsibility is to your passengers, your
family and your brothers-in-arms who love flying after your memorial
service. "Dan Lloyd, I still miss you and pray I follow the wiser
choice and don't place human life on a $ savings on RTV.". CHOOSE
WISELY, FLY OFTEN, THINK ABOUT THOSE WHO WILL FOLLOW.
You guys slay me occasionally on the decision process you follow! DAMN
I AM GETTING OLD.
John #40600
On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 6:47 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles
recess with pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp
sealant for this purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be beter
than pro seal?
Comments??
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs |
I am building the elevators, and as you know, one has to glue the trailing
edge foam ribs to the elevator skins interior.
Van's plans want you to use that ##$&&%% tank sealant, which I really hate
to use (probably one of the reasons I always go with the QB kit . :-)).
What are the alternative glues that can be used is this case, which
obviously don't melt the foam and don't corrode the aluminium skins?
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Just stick to the Proseal, it's tried and proven and not all that bad compar
ed with itchy fibreglass. Wait until you get to the cabin top & doors.
Warm regards
Patrick
On 25/04/2012, at 9:54 PM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote:
> I am building the elevators, and as you know, one has to glue the trailing
edge foam ribs to the elevator skins interior.
> Van=99s plans want you to use that ##$&&%% tank sealant, which I rea
lly hate to use (probably one of the reasons I always go with the QB kit
J).
>
> What are the alternative glues that can be used is this case, which obviou
sly don=99t melt the foam and don=99t corrode the aluminium skin
s?
>
> Carlos
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs |
If you don't want to deal with the pint or quart containers, Van's sells
the 1/2 oz film cannister size which is all you need for the trailing
edge. Only wish they would offer it in B-2 instead of B-1/2, as the 30
min pot life gets shortened by 50% for each ten degrees over 75, a
rather common condition here in Aridzona.
On 4/25/2012 5:24 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> I am building the elevators, and as you know, one has to glue the
> trailing edge foam ribs to the elevator skins interior.
>
> Vans plans want you to use that ##$&&%% tank sealant, which I really
> hate to use (probably one of the reasons I always go with the QB kit J).
>
> What are the alternative glues that can be used is this case, which
> obviously dont melt the foam and dont corrode the aluminium skins?
>
> Carlos
>
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
I fault Van's for simply calling for proseal when they clearly should be
calling for the Proseal 1900 or other suitable sealant. While proseal
may be adequate for keeping carbon monoxide from seeping through the
firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
a firewall completely. The Plane innovations or other stainless heater
control boxes both work better and restore the all stainless content on
the firewall, and come with a small tube of Biotherm. Also unfortunate
that Van's doesn't do much product improvement over time. Apparently
afraid to admit that something could be better than their original
specifications.
On 4/24/2012 10:39 PM, John Cox wrote:
> Rick,*the area in question deserves the best sealant possible*.
> John #40600
>
> On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 6:47 PM, Rick Lark > wrote:
>
> Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles
> recess with pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp
> sealant for this purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be
> beter than pro seal?
> **
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Kelly,
> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
Cheers Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | firewall sealing |
My answer to the fire problem (hope I never need it), 10# of Halon sprayed
between the firewall and baffling and over the engine. From Stroud Fire
Safety OKC
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
I fault Van's for simply calling for proseal when they clearly should be
calling for the Proseal 1900 or other suitable sealant. While proseal may be
adequate for keeping carbon monoxide from seeping through the firewall, it
gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying aluminum heater
control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having a firewall
completely. The Plane innovations or other stainless heater control boxes
both work better and restore the all stainless content on the firewall, and
come with a small tube of Biotherm. Also unfortunate that Van's doesn't do
much product improvement over time. Apparently afraid to admit that
something could be better than their original specifications.
On 4/24/2012 10:39 PM, John Cox wrote:
Rick, the area in question deserves the best sealant possible.
John #40600
On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 6:47 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles recess with
pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp sealant for this
purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be beter than pro seal?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Your hosed if there is a fire! Rivets are the least of your problem, the
issue is sealing the area around the rivets and the areas that are most
prone to "holding off" the fire and smoke with a heat sealant. We are
talking buying time here, the smoke will blind and cause all sorts of
breathing issues, hence the solid steel vents (that I know seal better than
the Vans one) but inhaling burning proseal is not something I would want to
add to the issue.
There are many rivets, there is a whole lot of fiberglass above the area,
the glass will give far sooner than the rivets ever will.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | firewall sealing |
A before and after photo; I teed it at the firewall, one sprayer was clamped
near the spider and the other was between the firewall and baffling. Be sure
and isolate engine vibrations from the sprayers by a rubber flex tube
between with hose clamps.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | firewall sealing |
If you are worried about fire, think fire suppression. Try
http://www.stroudsafety.com/FireExtinguisherSystems.html
All of that fiberglass is going to burn well with a lot of noxious fumes.
It's best to put it out. Fuel selector OFF, pull the pin and blow the
bottle.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Your hosed if there is a fire! Rivets are the least of your problem, the
issue is sealing the area around the rivets and the areas that are most
prone to "holding off" the fire and smoke with a heat sealant. We are
talking buying time here, the smoke will blind and cause all sorts of
breathing issues, hence the solid steel vents (that I know seal better than
the Vans one) but inhaling burning proseal is not something I would want to
add to the issue.
There are many rivets, there is a whole lot of fiberglass above the area,
the glass will give far sooner than the rivets ever will.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | firewall sealing |
Email check
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Your hosed if there is a fire! Rivets are the least of your problem, the
issue is sealing the area around the rivets and the areas that are most
prone to "holding off" the fire and smoke with a heat sealant. We are
talking buying time here, the smoke will blind and cause all sorts of
breathing issues, hence the solid steel vents (that I know seal better than
the Vans one) but inhaling burning proseal is not something I would want to
add to the issue.
There are many rivets, there is a whole lot of fiberglass above the area,
the glass will give far sooner than the rivets ever will.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
I just did the elevator trailing edges, ribs, and trim tab ribs last night.
I used the "mix in the tube" 3.5oz tank sealant from Vans, and it was
just enough for all those parts. (Part number MC-236-B1/2) You can
stick the tube in a caulk gun and just shoot it onto the part and
spread it out. It took me about 30 minutes for the entire process.
Simple, and no measuring needed.
On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 9:22 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> If you don't want to deal with the pint or quart containers, Van's sells the
> 1/2 oz film cannister size which is all you need for the trailing edge. Only
> wish they would offer it in B-2 instead of B-1/2, as the 30 min pot life
> gets shortened by 50% for each ten degrees over 75, a rather common
> condition here in Aridzona.
>
>
> On 4/25/2012 5:24 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>>
>>
>> I am building the elevators, and as you know, one has to glue the trailing
>> edge foam ribs to the elevator skins interior.
>>
>> Vans plans want you to use that ##$&&%% tank sealant, which I really hate
>> to use (probably one of the reasons I always go with the QB kit J).
>>
>> What are the alternative glues that can be used is this case, which
>> obviously dont melt the foam and dont corrode the aluminium skins?
>>
>> Carlos
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
Two questions:
1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would
be mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws
that hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the
inspection opening. The location of the three attachment points on the
module make that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in
the position called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate
that it be mounted on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the
rib with the pitot mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's
seem to find a position that would make both the connecting face and the
screws on the module easy to see and tighten.
2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before
the bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the
trim servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are
attached to the wings and possibly the wings are attached to the
airplane. Is that correct?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
I mounted my Gretz control module to the inspection plate. Easy and
accessible.
I did my Aileron trim after the wing was on the airplane....but I think you
could do it after the bottom skin was on but before you put the wing on the
airplane.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
(Building)
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 5:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
-->
Two questions:
1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in
the position called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate
that it be mounted on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib
with the pitot mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to
find a position that would make both the connecting face and the screws on
the module easy to see and tighten.
2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before the
bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to the
wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that correct?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
You can of course fit up the aileron trim servo mount onto the inboard left
wing inspection plate. You cannot fit the aileron trim spring attachments
to the aileron push tube until after the wings are on and the control
surfaces are rigged. The aileron push tube needs to first be correct,
"stick centered" position to determine where to put the spring attachments.
Remember that the push tube is easily removed via the wing tip once you mark
where the attachments go.
Carl
Pitot static test completed today - trying to get the FSDO out the first
week in May.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
I mounted my Gretz control module to the inspection plate. Easy and
accessible.
I did my Aileron trim after the wing was on the airplane....but I think you
could do it after the bottom skin was on but before you put the wing on the
airplane.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
(Building)
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 5:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
-->
Two questions:
1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in
the position called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate
that it be mounted on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib
with the pitot mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to
find a position that would make both the connecting face and the screws on
the module easy to see and tighten.
2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before the
bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to the
wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that correct?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
I thought it would be easier to install the gretz using molex connectors for
the wires so I mounted the assembly just inside of the wing rib inside the
inspection plate. I split the wires leading from the pitot to the control
unit and added appropriately sized molex connector. The thought being that
installing the pitot is just a matter of snapping the molex connector tight
instead of trying to work those little screws while upside down.
Not flying yet so as to effectiveness and reliability.... WAG.
Ben Westfall
40579
Portland, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
(Building)
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 4:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
Two questions:
1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in
the position called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate
that it be mounted on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib
with the pitot mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to
find a position that would make both the connecting face and the screws on
the module easy to see and tighten.
2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before the
bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to the
wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that correct?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Mara" <mara(at)leasenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
Dave, I don't normally post but I think my installation worked out well.
I have posted three different views. I would not place the controller
outboard of
the rib. The two AN3's are easily reached thru the access cover.
Ron Mara
Addison, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
>
>
> Two questions:
>
> 1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
> mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
> hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
> opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
> that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in the position
> called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate that it be mounted
> on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib with the pitot
> mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to find a position
> that would make both the connecting face and the screws on the module easy
> to see and tighten.
>
> 2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before
> the bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
> servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to
> the wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that
> correct?
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Wings
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 7086 (20120425) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
>
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database
7086 (20120425) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Mara" <mara(at)leasenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
Sorry, size restriction... here's the third photo.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
>
>
> Two questions:
>
> 1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
> mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
> hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
> opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
> that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in the position
> called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate that it be mounted
> on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib with the pitot
> mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to find a position
> that would make both the connecting face and the screws on the module easy
> to see and tighten.
>
> 2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before
> the bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
> servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to
> the wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that
> correct?
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Wings
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 7086 (20120425) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
>
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database
7086 (20120425) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Foreflight with Stratus Review |
I received my Stratus unit from Sporty's the other day and wanted to
give a report on my impressions for the group. I know there is a lot of
debate over which app is best for the iPad, especially with the new
Garmin app released at Sun-N-Fun, but I'm going to try not to get into
that beyond this statement. I have used Foreflight since version 1 or 2
and have only tried WingX a little. Because I am used to Foreflight and
the navigation and functionality, I have not liked my experiences with
WingX, but as has been said before, we like what we are used to. I use
Foreflight for all of my flight planning (I usually use
www.weathermeister.com for keeping up with the weather for my trip, but
use Foreflight for all actually route planning, flight plan filing, and
charts and plates while flying). I have Foreflight on my iPad 2 Wifi and
iPhone 4. I have used a bluetooth GPS that required jailbreaking the
iPad, but when that broke (left it on the glarshield in the Florida sun
for 3-4 hours one day and the battery swelled and broke the case), I
bought the Bad Elf. I wasn't very happy with the Bad Elf because I
didn't like having it attached to the iPad in use, especially when
bouncing around in IMC. I almost pulled the trigger on the new iPad, in
which case I would have bought the 4G version, but when I didn't get the
call from MacMall on the day they were starting to ship (like they
promised they would), I didn't follow through with the purchase.
I was walking through the hangars at Sun-N-Fun and saw the Stratus on
the first day. After a short talk with a friend of mine, we decided to
buy it. We had both been saying that as soon as there was a portable
ADS-B box that worked with Foreflight, we would get it. We split the
cost and ordered it as well as the external antenna (which we haven't
received yet). We mainly wanted ADS-B for weather, because we were
almost to the point of getting the unit that would get XM weather onto
the iPad, but liked the thought of no subscription better.
We just made a flight in N33DQ (Cessna 182) from Arkansas to Florida
through a lot of IMC, but it was a couple of days too early for the
Stratus. That would be the real test, especially because of the ADS-B
service areas and all of the local radar activity. Unfortunately, the
screen shots I have now are shots with no rain within 250nm or more of
where I was flying, and not a cloud in the sky, but I will share some of
them anyway.
Now, for my experience with the Stratus. YMMV, but this is my thought
after my short time using it.
For the cost, I think it's about as cheap as any ADS-B unit that I have
seen, and I figured it would cost about the same as a year work of
activation and subscription to XM with the better plan, not counting the
XM hardware.
As far as what coverage is available through ADS-B, I was pleasantly
surprised to find out today that winds aloft are actually available.
There are no lightning strikes or Echo Tops, but METARSs, TAFs, NOTAMs,
Winds Aloft, Radar (high resolution regional and low resolution
nationwide) and PIREPs are all available (among a few other things that
I usually don't spend much time with). Personally I really like flying
with Echo Tops in the -10 because it usually accurately lets me know if
I will be able to get over the tops or will have to go through.
Lightning would be nice to have, but usually avoiding the red nexrad
(which is a good idea) will keep you away from most strikes (which is a
very good idea), in my experience. I will miss those two features, but
the most important features for me are METARs, TAFs and Radar.
We took off from X35 with the Stratus on the glare shield of the RV-10
and watched the LED's on the unit as well as the indication in
Foreflight of when we got a signal. We got the signal at about 5-600
feet AGL. Remember that we are in central Florida, so the ADS-B coverage
here is very good. We had as many as 9 stations at a time in our short
flight up to 5,500 feet MSL. I really like the Status page (see attached
pictures) that gives you the information on the Stratus. It shows the
connectivity, battery status, power source, etc and then gives
information on what data has been downloaded and how long ago. It also
shows the grid of satellites that the unit is receiving location from
and how good the signal is. The accuracy of location, including GPS
altitude, is the best I have seen among the bluetooth GPS, Bad Elf,
onboard GPS and the Stratus, with Accuracy usually 1-2m.
As you can see from the pictures attached, and as I have already
mentioned, the weather here was way too good to get great pictures as to
the usefulness of the Stratus, but it's the best I can offer so far. I
usually just keep up the map screen with the Radar and Flight Rules
shown. For information on a specific airport, you can just tap on the
dot and it will pull up the Metar (and TAF and Winds Aloft if
available). If you scroll down on the pop-up, you can see the METARs of
other local airports, as well as how old the report is. We must have
been getting some medium and/or high altitude ADS-B stations, because we
were getting national CONUS Radar as well as a good range of METARs,
PIREPs, etc.
If you zoom out on the map, only the bigger airport Flight Rules show
up. If you zoom in, it shows everywhere that reports. It will also paint
the surface winds, cielings, temperature, dew point spread, cloud cover,
etc. the same way that it does the Flight Rules, but this display is my
favorite for overall information. It will only show one of these at a
time, as well as Radar at the same time. It will also show TFR's on the
map for those who aren't flying "in the system".
My overall impression is very good. I am looking forward to taking a
trip outside the normally shown coverage area, especially after I get
the external antenna, so I can see how accurate the coverage maps are in
the 10-18,000 foot range. One nice thing is that if you are going
through a relatively small area of weak coverage, the information stays
on the iPad. It just doesn't update, so you still should have
information, which will start updating as soon as you get back within
coverage.
The battery on the Stratus has been quite impressive so far. It comes
with a USB cable for charging, as well as an AC adapter, but in a 45
minute flight the battery was still in the 90%'s. It seemed to stay put
really well on the glare shield and it is low profile, so it doesn't get
in my way at all for flying.
Can it replace XM? In my opinion, for a great deal of my flying, yes,
mainly because of where I live and where and how I fly. I much prefer
the screen size of the iPad to the Garmin Aera, and I like the interface
much better than the Aera. As an all-in-one unit for flight planning,
preflight weather, enroute charts, plates, enroute weather (with the
Stratus), I haven't used anything I think would work better (especially
for moving from plane to plane) than the iPad, Foreflight and the
Stratus. It is not for everybody, but for those within the coverage
area, who move from plane to plane, who don't want to have the monthly
subscription, I highly recommend it based on my experience so far. I'll
try to post again after I have taken it on a longer trip through some
IMC.
One thing I would really like to see in Foreflight would be a Winds
Aloft display on the map, like with most XM products. They have surface
winds at airports, which helps, but picking an altitude with Winds Aloft
information would help. It does calculate Time Enroute and overall wind
effect for your route in the route planner, so I guess you could pick
different altitudes and see which one would be fastest, but it would be
nice to have a chart (like on the Flight Cheetah, for the few of you who
might have flown with it).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Foreflight with Stratus Review |
Jesse,
I also bought the stratus and love the way it works with ForeFlight . When
you go to winds under airport info you get winds aloft in a numerical
display. I do hope they will add lightning strike but xm only shows air to
ground strikes. I currently have xm on a 496 so going to the ipad was such
an improvement in display. The GPs accuracy on the stratus is phenomenal. I
never saw more than a 2 meter accuracy. I can't receive the info on the
ground at my home airport and use my wifi(internet) connection to get the
weather before takeoff. At about 2000 feet I get ADS-B .
I'll experiment some more this weekend but my initial impression is
favorable.
Alan
N668G
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 4:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Foreflight with Stratus Review
I received my Stratus unit from Sporty's the other day and wanted to give a
report on my impressions for the group. I know there is a lot of debate over
which app is best for the iPad, especially with the new Garmin app released
at Sun-N-Fun, but I'm going to try not to get into that beyond this
statement. I have used Foreflight since version 1 or 2 and have only tried
WingX a little. Because I am used to Foreflight and the navigation and
functionality, I have not liked my experiences with WingX, but as has been
said before, we like what we are used to. I use Foreflight for all of my
flight planning (I usually use www.weathermeister.com for keeping up with
the weather for my trip, but use Foreflight for all actually route planning,
flight plan filing, and charts and plates while flying). I have Foreflight
on my iPad 2 Wifi and iPhone 4. I have used a bluetooth GPS that required
jailbreaking the iPad, but when that broke (left it on the glarshield in the
Florida sun for 3-4 hours one day and the battery swelled and broke the
case), I bought the Bad Elf. I wasn't very happy with the Bad Elf because I
didn't like having it attached to the iPad in use, especially when bouncing
around in IMC. I almost pulled the trigger on the new iPad, in which case I
would have bought the 4G version, but when I didn't get the call from
MacMall on the day they were starting to ship (like they promised they
would), I didn't follow through with the purchase.
I was walking through the hangars at Sun-N-Fun and saw the Stratus on the
first day. After a short talk with a friend of mine, we decided to buy it.
We had both been saying that as soon as there was a portable ADS-B box that
worked with Foreflight, we would get it. We split the cost and ordered it as
well as the external antenna (which we haven't received yet). We mainly
wanted ADS-B for weather, because we were almost to the point of getting the
unit that would get XM weather onto the iPad, but liked the thought of no
subscription better.
We just made a flight in N33DQ (Cessna 182) from Arkansas to Florida through
a lot of IMC, but it was a couple of days too early for the Stratus. That
would be the real test, especially because of the ADS-B service areas and
all of the local radar activity. Unfortunately, the screen shots I have now
are shots with no rain within 250nm or more of where I was flying, and not a
cloud in the sky, but I will share some of them anyway.
Now, for my experience with the Stratus. YMMV, but this is my thought after
my short time using it.
For the cost, I think it's about as cheap as any ADS-B unit that I have
seen, and I figured it would cost about the same as a year work of
activation and subscription to XM with the better plan, not counting the XM
hardware.
As far as what coverage is available through ADS-B, I was pleasantly
surprised to find out today that winds aloft are actually available. There
are no lightning strikes or Echo Tops, but METARSs, TAFs, NOTAMs, Winds
Aloft, Radar (high resolution regional and low resolution nationwide) and
PIREPs are all available (among a few other things that I usually don't
spend much time with). Personally I really like flying with Echo Tops in the
-10 because it usually accurately lets me know if I will be able to get over
the tops or will have to go through. Lightning would be nice to have, but
usually avoiding the red nexrad (which is a good idea) will keep you away
from most strikes (which is a very good idea), in my experience. I will miss
those two features, but the most important features for me are METARs, TAFs
and Radar.
We took off from X35 with the Stratus on the glare shield of the RV-10 and
watched the LED's on the unit as well as the indication in Foreflight of
when we got a signal. We got the signal at about 5-600 feet AGL. Remember
that we are in central Florida, so the ADS-B coverage here is very good. We
had as many as 9 stations at a time in our short flight up to 5,500 feet
MSL. I really like the Status page (see attached pictures) that gives you
the information on the Stratus. It shows the connectivity, battery status,
power source, etc and then gives information on what data has been
downloaded and how long ago. It also shows the grid of satellites that the
unit is receiving location from and how good the signal is. The accuracy of
location, including GPS altitude, is the best I have seen among the
bluetooth GPS, Bad Elf, onboard GPS and the Stratus, with Accuracy usually
1-2m.
As you can see from the pictures attached, and as I have already mentioned,
the weather here was way too good to get great pictures as to the usefulness
of the Stratus, but it's the best I can offer so far. I usually just keep up
the map screen with the Radar and Flight Rules shown. For information on a
specific airport, you can just tap on the dot and it will pull up the Metar
(and TAF and Winds Aloft if available). If you scroll down on the pop-up,
you can see the METARs of other local airports, as well as how old the
report is. We must have been getting some medium and/or high altitude ADS-B
stations, because we were getting national CONUS Radar as well as a good
range of METARs, PIREPs, etc.
If you zoom out on the map, only the bigger airport Flight Rules show up. If
you zoom in, it shows everywhere that reports. It will also paint the
surface winds, cielings, temperature, dew point spread, cloud cover, etc.
the same way that it does the Flight Rules, but this display is my favorite
for overall information. It will only show one of these at a time, as well
as Radar at the same time. It will also show TFR's on the map for those who
aren't flying "in the system".
My overall impression is very good. I am looking forward to taking a trip
outside the normally shown coverage area, especially after I get the
external antenna, so I can see how accurate the coverage maps are in the
10-18,000 foot range. One nice thing is that if you are going through a
relatively small area of weak coverage, the information stays on the iPad.
It just doesn't update, so you still should have information, which will
start updating as soon as you get back within coverage.
The battery on the Stratus has been quite impressive so far. It comes with a
USB cable for charging, as well as an AC adapter, but in a 45 minute flight
the battery was still in the 90%'s. It seemed to stay put really well on the
glare shield and it is low profile, so it doesn't get in my way at all for
flying.
Can it replace XM? In my opinion, for a great deal of my flying, yes, mainly
because of where I live and where and how I fly. I much prefer the screen
size of the iPad to the Garmin Aera, and I like the interface much better
than the Aera. As an all-in-one unit for flight planning, preflight weather,
enroute charts, plates, enroute weather (with the Stratus), I haven't used
anything I think would work better (especially for moving from plane to
plane) than the iPad, Foreflight and the Stratus. It is not for everybody,
but for those within the coverage area, who move from plane to plane, who
don't want to have the monthly subscription, I highly recommend it based on
my experience so far. I'll try to post again after I have taken it on a
longer trip through some IMC.
One thing I would really like to see in Foreflight would be a Winds Aloft
display on the map, like with most XM products. They have surface winds at
airports, which helps, but picking an altitude with Winds Aloft information
would help. It does calculate Time Enroute and overall wind effect for your
route in the route planner, so I guess you could pick different altitudes
and see which one would be fastest, but it would be nice to have a chart
(like on the Flight Cheetah, for the few of you who might have flown with
it).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight with Stratus Review |
Thanks Jesse. I just wanted to piggyback on your comments with an iPad obse
rvation. Having owned all three (1, 2 & New) I really like the reduced cost
of the iPad 2 3G. Don't get me wrong the New iPad is nice with 4G and the
retina screen but it does get hotter that it's predecessors for sure and th
e minor weight difference is noticeable. The New is definitely an improvem
ent in screen and speed but the iPad 2 seems to do it all quite well and wi
th a minimum $100 savings. I say minimum because you can only get the 2 in
a 16GB unit. When you buy the New iPad you may be temped to get the 32 or 6
4GB as I did for a mere $829.00 before mandatory cover. So $529.00 vs. $829
.00. I know Tim O would chime in with the need for extra storage but I have
done everything I needed wo going over my 16 GB with a little memory manag
ement.
So my 2 (can't find the cents key on my iPad) are you have a choice between
good and better. You can't lose.
Robin
Sent from the new iPad
On Apr 26, 2012, at 7:33 PM, "Jesse Saint" wrote:
> I received my Stratus unit from Sporty's the other day and wanted to give
a report on my impressions for the group. I know there is a lot of debate
over which app is best for the iPad, especially with the new Garmin app rel
eased at Sun-N-Fun, but I'm going to try not to get into that beyond this s
tatement. I have used Foreflight since version 1 or 2 and have only tried W
ingX a little. Because I am used to Foreflight and the navigation and funct
ionality, I have not liked my experiences with WingX, but as has been said
before, we like what we are used to. I use Foreflight for all of my flight
planning (I usually use www.weathermeister.com<http://www.weathermeister.co
m> for keeping up with the weather for my trip, but use Foreflight for all
actually route planning, flight plan filing, and charts and plates while fl
ying). I have Foreflight on my iPad 2 Wifi and iPhone 4. I have used a blue
tooth GPS that required jailbreaking the iPad, but when that broke (left it
on the glarshield in the Florida sun for 3-4 hours one day and the battery
swelled and broke the case), I bought the Bad Elf. I wasn't very happy wit
h the Bad Elf because I didn't like having it attached to the iPad in use,
especially when bouncing around in IMC. I almost pulled the trigger on the
new iPad, in which case I would have bought the 4G version, but when I didn
't get the call from MacMall on the day they were starting to ship (like th
ey promised they would), I didn't follow through with the purchase.
>
> I was walking through the hangars at Sun-N-Fun and saw the Stratus on the
first day. After a short talk with a friend of mine, we decided to buy it.
We had both been saying that as soon as there was a portable ADS-B box tha
t worked with Foreflight, we would get it. We split the cost and ordered it
as well as the external antenna (which we haven't received yet). We mainly
wanted ADS-B for weather, because we were almost to the point of getting t
he unit that would get XM weather onto the iPad, but liked the thought of n
o subscription better.
>
> We just made a flight in N33DQ (Cessna 182) from Arkansas to Florida thro
ugh a lot of IMC, but it was a couple of days too early for the Stratus. Th
at would be the real test, especially because of the ADS-B service areas an
d all of the local radar activity. Unfortunately, the screen shots I have n
ow are shots with no rain within 250nm or more of where I was flying, and n
ot a cloud in the sky, but I will share some of them anyway.
>
> Now, for my experience with the Stratus. YMMV, but this is my thought aft
er my short time using it.
>
> For the cost, I think it's about as cheap as any ADS-B unit that I have s
een, and I figured it would cost about the same as a year work of activatio
n and subscription to XM with the better plan, not counting the XM hardware
.
>
> As far as what coverage is available through ADS-B, I was pleasantly surp
rised to find out today that winds aloft are actually available. There are
no lightning strikes or Echo Tops, but METARSs, TAFs, NOTAMs, Winds Aloft,
Radar (high resolution regional and low resolution nationwide) and PIREPs a
re all available (among a few other things that I usually don't spend much
time with). Personally I really like flying with Echo Tops in the -10 becau
se it usually accurately lets me know if I will be able to get over the top
s or will have to go through. Lightning would be nice to have, but usually
avoiding the red nexrad (which is a good idea) will keep you away from most
strikes (which is a very good idea), in my experience. I will miss those t
wo features, but the most important features for me are METARs, TAFs and Ra
dar.
>
> We took off from X35 with the Stratus on the glare shield of the RV-10 an
d watched the LED's on the unit as well as the indication in Foreflight of
when we got a signal. We got the signal at about 5-600 feet AGL. Remember t
hat we are in central Florida, so the ADS-B coverage here is very good. We
had as many as 9 stations at a time in our short flight up to 5,500 feet MS
L. I really like the Status page (see attached pictures) that gives you the
information on the Stratus. It shows the connectivity, battery status, pow
er source, etc and then gives information on what data has been downloaded
and how long ago. It also shows the grid of satellites that the unit is rec
eiving location from and how good the signal is. The accuracy of location,
including GPS altitude, is the best I have seen among the bluetooth GPS, Ba
d Elf, onboard GPS and the Stratus, with Accuracy usually 1-2m.
>
> As you can see from the pictures attached, and as I have already mentione
d, the weather here was way too good to get great pictures as to the useful
ness of the Stratus, but it's the best I can offer so far. I usually just k
eep up the map screen with the Radar and Flight Rules shown. For informatio
n on a specific airport, you can just tap on the dot and it will pull up th
e Metar (and TAF and Winds Aloft if available). If you scroll down on the p
op-up, you can see the METARs of other local airports, as well as how old t
he report is. We must have been getting some medium and/or high altitude AD
S-B stations, because we were getting national CONUS Radar as well as a goo
d range of METARs, PIREPs, etc.
>
> If you zoom out on the map, only the bigger airport Flight Rules show up.
If you zoom in, it shows everywhere that reports. It will also paint the s
urface winds, cielings, temperature, dew point spread, cloud cover, etc. th
e same way that it does the Flight Rules, but this display is my favorite f
or overall information. It will only show one of these at a time, as well a
s Radar at the same time. It will also show TFR's on the map for those who
aren't flying "in the system".
>
> My overall impression is very good. I am looking forward to taking a trip
outside the normally shown coverage area, especially after I get the exter
nal antenna, so I can see how accurate the coverage maps are in the 10-18,0
00 foot range. One nice thing is that if you are going through a relatively
small area of weak coverage, the information stays on the iPad. It just do
esn't update, so you still should have information, which will start updati
ng as soon as you get back within coverage.
>
> The battery on the Stratus has been quite impressive so far. It comes wit
h a USB cable for charging, as well as an AC adapter, but in a 45 minute fl
ight the battery was still in the 90%'s. It seemed to stay put really well
on the glare shield and it is low profile, so it doesn't get in my way at a
ll for flying.
>
> Can it replace XM? In my opinion, for a great deal of my flying, yes, mai
nly because of where I live and where and how I fly. I much prefer the scre
en size of the iPad to the Garmin Aera, and I like the interface much bette
r than the Aera. As an all-in-one unit for flight planning, preflight weath
er, enroute charts, plates, enroute weather (with the Stratus), I haven't u
sed anything I think would work better (especially for moving from plane to
plane) than the iPad, Foreflight and the Stratus. It is not for everybody,
but for those within the coverage area, who move from plane to plane, who
don't want to have the monthly subscription, I highly recommend it based on
my experience so far. I'll try to post again after I have taken it on a lo
nger trip through some IMC.
>
> One thing I would really like to see in Foreflight would be a Winds Aloft
display on the map, like with most XM products. They have surface winds at
airports, which helps, but picking an altitude with Winds Aloft informatio
n would help. It does calculate Time Enroute and overall wind effect for yo
ur route in the route planner, so I guess you could pick different altitude
s and see which one would be fastest, but it would be nice to have a chart
(like on the Flight Cheetah, for the few of you who might have flown with i
t).
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
> [cid:86CE3124-CB81-4E76-BAA4-55CB22DB8E23]
> [cid:3D4F42E2-F601-45DD-ADB8-DC3D6AC161C6]
> [cid:324708F2-838B-4D6C-9A35-D0A8BDA208CD]
> [cid:F789AB5F-23F9-4C2B-9877-7374F493E0B7]
> [cid:643C74C0-5044-408E-8B40-837BBCEB0512]
> [cid:EB19C300-84D9-4272-9B36-FEC0D1C03A33]
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight with Stratus Review |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Thanks for the comments on the 3 different iPads. I will comment on the 16GB version,
which I have in the iPad 2. I do wish I had the 32GB version. That is probably
one of the main reasons I have not used WingX much. I was given a subscription
to the charts for a year, but because I can't download all of the charts
for both Foreflight and WingX (I usually try to keep most or all of the US
charts downloaded on Foreflight all the time, even though I very seldom fly out
West) as well as keep my other apps on the iPad. I do use the iPad for a lot
more than just flying, so if you are just flying, then 16GB should be plenty,
but if you want to have movies, audio, lots of apps, etc on the iPad as well
as Foreflight (uses a lot more storage than WingX), then you might want to look
at 32GB. Just my 2 cents (can't find the cents key on my Macbook).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Apr 26, 2012, at 10:10 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Thanks Jesse. I just wanted to piggyback on your comments with an iPad observation.
Having owned all three (1, 2 & New) I really like the reduced cost of the
iPad 2 3G. Don't get me wrong the New iPad is nice with 4G and the retina screen
but it does get hotter that it's predecessors for sure and the minor weight
difference is noticeable. The New is definitely an improvement in screen
and speed but the iPad 2 seems to do it all quite well and with a minimum $100
savings. I say minimum because you can only get the 2 in a 16GB unit. When you
buy the New iPad you may be temped to get the 32 or 64GB as I did for a mere
$829.00 before mandatory cover. So $529.00 vs. $829.00. I know Tim O would chime
in with the need for extra storage but I have done everything I needed wo
going over my 16 GB with a little memory management.
> So my 2 (can't find the cents key on my iPad) are you have a choice between good
and better. You can't lose.
>
> Robin
> Sent from the new iPad
>
> On Apr 26, 2012, at 7:33 PM, "Jesse Saint" wrote:
>
>> I received my Stratus unit from Sporty's the other day and wanted to give a report on my impressions for the group. I know there is a lot of debate over which app is best for the iPad, especially with the new Garmin app released at Sun-N-Fun, but I'm going to try not to get into that beyond this statement. I have used Foreflight since version 1 or 2 and have only tried WingX a little. Because I am used to Foreflight and the navigation and functionality, I have not liked my experiences with WingX, but as has been said before, we like what we are used to. I use Foreflight for all of my flight planning (I usually use www.weathermeister.com<http://www.weathermeister.com> for keeping up with the weather for my trip, but use Foreflight for all actually route planning, flight plan filing, and charts and plates while flying). I have Foreflight on my iPad 2 Wifi and iPhone 4. I have used a bluetooth GPS that required jailbreaking the iPad, but when that broke (left it on the glarshield in the Florida sun for 3-4 hours one day and the battery swelled and broke the case), I bought the Bad Elf. I wasn't very happy with the Bad Elf because I didn't like having it attached to the iPad in use, especially when bouncing around in IMC. I almost pulled the trigger on the new iPad, in which case I would have bought the 4G version, but when I didn't get the call from MacMall on the day they were starting to ship (like they promised they would), I didn't follow through with the purchase.
>>
>> I was walking through the hangars at Sun-N-Fun and saw the Stratus on the first
day. After a short talk with a friend of mine, we decided to buy it. We had
both been saying that as soon as there was a portable ADS-B box that worked
with Foreflight, we would get it. We split the cost and ordered it as well as
the external antenna (which we haven't received yet). We mainly wanted ADS-B for
weather, because we were almost to the point of getting the unit that would
get XM weather onto the iPad, but liked the thought of no subscription better.
>>
>> We just made a flight in N33DQ (Cessna 182) from Arkansas to Florida through
a lot of IMC, but it was a couple of days too early for the Stratus. That would
be the real test, especially because of the ADS-B service areas and all of
the local radar activity. Unfortunately, the screen shots I have now are shots
with no rain within 250nm or more of where I was flying, and not a cloud in the
sky, but I will share some of them anyway.
>>
>> Now, for my experience with the Stratus. YMMV, but this is my thought after
my short time using it.
>>
>> For the cost, I think it's about as cheap as any ADS-B unit that I have seen,
and I figured it would cost about the same as a year work of activation and
subscription to XM with the better plan, not counting the XM hardware.
>>
>> As far as what coverage is available through ADS-B, I was pleasantly surprised
to find out today that winds aloft are actually available. There are no lightning
strikes or Echo Tops, but METARSs, TAFs, NOTAMs, Winds Aloft, Radar (high
resolution regional and low resolution nationwide) and PIREPs are all available
(among a few other things that I usually don't spend much time with). Personally
I really like flying with Echo Tops in the -10 because it usually accurately
lets me know if I will be able to get over the tops or will have to go
through. Lightning would be nice to have, but usually avoiding the red nexrad
(which is a good idea) will keep you away from most strikes (which is a very good
idea), in my experience. I will miss those two features, but the most important
features for me are METARs, TAFs and Radar.
>>
>> We took off from X35 with the Stratus on the glare shield of the RV-10 and watched
the LED's on the unit as well as the indication in Foreflight of when we
got a signal. We got the signal at about 5-600 feet AGL. Remember that we are
in central Florida, so the ADS-B coverage here is very good. We had as many
as 9 stations at a time in our short flight up to 5,500 feet MSL. I really like
the Status page (see attached pictures) that gives you the information on the
Stratus. It shows the connectivity, battery status, power source, etc and then
gives information on what data has been downloaded and how long ago. It also
shows the grid of satellites that the unit is receiving location from and how
good the signal is. The accuracy of location, including GPS altitude, is the
best I have seen among the bluetooth GPS, Bad Elf, onboard GPS and the Stratus,
with Accuracy usually 1-2m.
>>
>> As you can see from the pictures attached, and as I have already mentioned,
the weather here was way too good to get great pictures as to the usefulness of
the Stratus, but it's the best I can offer so far. I usually just keep up the
map screen with the Radar and Flight Rules shown. For information on a specific
airport, you can just tap on the dot and it will pull up the Metar (and TAF
and Winds Aloft if available). If you scroll down on the pop-up, you can see
the METARs of other local airports, as well as how old the report is. We must
have been getting some medium and/or high altitude ADS-B stations, because we
were getting national CONUS Radar as well as a good range of METARs, PIREPs,
etc.
>>
>> If you zoom out on the map, only the bigger airport Flight Rules show up. If
you zoom in, it shows everywhere that reports. It will also paint the surface
winds, cielings, temperature, dew point spread, cloud cover, etc. the same way
that it does the Flight Rules, but this display is my favorite for overall information.
It will only show one of these at a time, as well as Radar at the
same time. It will also show TFR's on the map for those who aren't flying "in
the system".
>>
>> My overall impression is very good. I am looking forward to taking a trip outside
the normally shown coverage area, especially after I get the external antenna,
so I can see how accurate the coverage maps are in the 10-18,000 foot range.
One nice thing is that if you are going through a relatively small area
of weak coverage, the information stays on the iPad. It just doesn't update, so
you still should have information, which will start updating as soon as you
get back within coverage.
>>
>> The battery on the Stratus has been quite impressive so far. It comes with a
USB cable for charging, as well as an AC adapter, but in a 45 minute flight the
battery was still in the 90%'s. It seemed to stay put really well on the glare
shield and it is low profile, so it doesn't get in my way at all for flying.
>>
>> Can it replace XM? In my opinion, for a great deal of my flying, yes, mainly
because of where I live and where and how I fly. I much prefer the screen size
of the iPad to the Garmin Aera, and I like the interface much better than the
Aera. As an all-in-one unit for flight planning, preflight weather, enroute
charts, plates, enroute weather (with the Stratus), I haven't used anything I
think would work better (especially for moving from plane to plane) than the iPad,
Foreflight and the Stratus. It is not for everybody, but for those within
the coverage area, who move from plane to plane, who don't want to have the monthly
subscription, I highly recommend it based on my experience so far. I'll
try to post again after I have taken it on a longer trip through some IMC.
>>
>> One thing I would really like to see in Foreflight would be a Winds Aloft display
on the map, like with most XM products. They have surface winds at airports,
which helps, but picking an altitude with Winds Aloft information would help.
It does calculate Time Enroute and overall wind effect for your route in
the route planner, so I guess you could pick different altitudes and see which
one would be fastest, but it would be nice to have a chart (like on the Flight
Cheetah, for the few of you who might have flown with it).
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>> [cid:86CE3124-CB81-4E76-BAA4-55CB22DB8E23]
>> [cid:3D4F42E2-F601-45DD-ADB8-DC3D6AC161C6]
>> [cid:324708F2-838B-4D6C-9A35-D0A8BDA208CD]
>> [cid:F789AB5F-23F9-4C2B-9877-7374F493E0B7]
>> [cid:643C74C0-5044-408E-8B40-837BBCEB0512]
>> [cid:EB19C300-84D9-4272-9B36-FEC0D1C03A33]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight with Stratus Review |
And I use my iPad with both Foreflight and WingX (and I had skycharts on
there long ago too but never use it anymore). I also use mine for
work (remote access) a bunch, and it's also an entertainment device on
vacations....movies mostly. So for me, 32Gb would be a minimum,
and 64Gb is do-able. In fact, my biggest complaint about the iPhone
and iPad is that I wish each had one model higher in capacity.
I could really use 64Gb on my iPhone, and I'd love a 128Gb iPad.
It's the primary reason I didn't buy an iPhone 4S and "New" iPad...had
they increased the capacity I'd have bought one the first day.
So Robin is right....you can really save money and if you only want
to use it for flying and some minor things, a 16Gb model would work
but we aware that you will only be able to have one major app on
there for flight software, most likely. I'd *always* recommend
the 3G/4G models because even when just in the car the built-in
GPS is worth the extra, if you use it for any navigation or mapping.
(I keep a road GPS app on there too, with all US coverage)
So for many non-entertainment users, 32Gb would be a logical happy
medium. If you have kids though, spring for the biggest one you
can find. We loaded all of our iPads and iPhones up with movies
and entertainment for our last trip and it was nice to have.
Tim
On 4/27/2012 7:23 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jesse Saint
>
> Thanks for the comments on the 3 different iPads. I will comment on the 16GB
version, which I have in the iPad 2. I do wish I had the 32GB version. That is
probably one of the main reasons I have not used WingX much. I was given a subscription
to the charts for a year, but because I can't download all of the charts
for both Foreflight and WingX (I usually try to keep most or all of the
US charts downloaded on Foreflight all the time, even though I very seldom fly
out West) as well as keep my other apps on the iPad. I do use the iPad for a
lot more than just flying, so if you are just flying, then 16GB should be plenty,
but if you want to have movies, audio, lots of apps, etc on the iPad as well
as Foreflight (uses a lot more storage than WingX), then you might want to
look at 32GB. Just my 2 cents (can't find the cents key on my Macbook).
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Apr 26, 2012, at 10:10 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>> Thanks Jesse. I just wanted to piggyback on your comments with an iPad observation.
Having owned all three (1, 2& New) I really like the reduced cost of
the iPad 2 3G. Don't get me wrong the New iPad is nice with 4G and the retina
screen but it does get hotter that it's predecessors for sure and the minor weight
difference is noticeable. The New is definitely an improvement in screen
and speed but the iPad 2 seems to do it all quite well and with a minimum $100
savings. I say minimum because you can only get the 2 in a 16GB unit. When you
buy the New iPad you may be temped to get the 32 or 64GB as I did for a mere
$829.00 before mandatory cover. So $529.00 vs. $829.00. I know Tim O would chime
in with the need for extra storage but I have done everything I needed wo
going over my 16 GB with a little memory management.
>> So my 2 (can't find the cents key on my iPad) are you have a choice between
good and better. You can't lose.
>>
>> Robin
>> Sent from the new iPad
>>
>> On Apr 26, 2012, at 7:33 PM, "Jesse Saint" wrote:
>>
>>> I received my Stratus unit from Sporty's the other day and wanted to give a report on my impressions for the group. I know there is a lot of debate over which app is best for the iPad, especially with the new Garmin app released at Sun-N-Fun, but I'm going to try not to get into that beyond this statement. I have used Foreflight since version 1 or 2 and have only tried WingX a little. Because I am used to Foreflight and the navigation and functionality, I have not liked my experiences with WingX, but as has been said before, we like what we are used to. I use Foreflight for all of my flight planning (I usually use www.weathermeister.com<http://www.weathermeister.com> for keeping up with the weather for my trip, but use Foreflight for all actually route planning, flight plan filing, and charts and plates while flying). I have Foreflight on my iPad 2 Wifi and iPhone 4. I have used a bluetooth GPS that required jailbreaking the iPad, but when that broke (left it on the gla!
rs!
> hield in the Florida sun for 3-4 hours one day and the battery swelled and
broke the case), I bought the Bad Elf. I wasn't very happy with the Bad Elf because
I didn't like having it attached to the iPad in use, especially when bouncing
around in IMC. I almost pulled the trigger on the new iPad, in which case
I would have bought the 4G version, but when I didn't get the call from MacMall
on the day they were starting to ship (like they promised they would), I didn't
follow through with the purchase.
>>>
>>> I was walking through the hangars at Sun-N-Fun and saw the Stratus on the first
day. After a short talk with a friend of mine, we decided to buy it. We had
both been saying that as soon as there was a portable ADS-B box that worked
with Foreflight, we would get it. We split the cost and ordered it as well as
the external antenna (which we haven't received yet). We mainly wanted ADS-B
for weather, because we were almost to the point of getting the unit that would
get XM weather onto the iPad, but liked the thought of no subscription better.
>>>
>>> We just made a flight in N33DQ (Cessna 182) from Arkansas to Florida through
a lot of IMC, but it was a couple of days too early for the Stratus. That would
be the real test, especially because of the ADS-B service areas and all of
the local radar activity. Unfortunately, the screen shots I have now are shots
with no rain within 250nm or more of where I was flying, and not a cloud in
the sky, but I will share some of them anyway.
>>>
>>> Now, for my experience with the Stratus. YMMV, but this is my thought after
my short time using it.
>>>
>>> For the cost, I think it's about as cheap as any ADS-B unit that I have seen,
and I figured it would cost about the same as a year work of activation and
subscription to XM with the better plan, not counting the XM hardware.
>>>
>>> As far as what coverage is available through ADS-B, I was pleasantly surprised
to find out today that winds aloft are actually available. There are no lightning
strikes or Echo Tops, but METARSs, TAFs, NOTAMs, Winds Aloft, Radar (high
resolution regional and low resolution nationwide) and PIREPs are all available
(among a few other things that I usually don't spend much time with). Personally
I really like flying with Echo Tops in the -10 because it usually accurately
lets me know if I will be able to get over the tops or will have to go
through. Lightning would be nice to have, but usually avoiding the red nexrad
(which is a good idea) will keep you away from most strikes (which is a very
good idea), in my experience. I will miss those two features, but the most important
features for me are METARs, TAFs and Radar.
>>>
>>> We took off from X35 with the Stratus on the glare shield of the RV-10 and
watched the LED's on the unit as well as the indication in Foreflight of when
we got a signal. We got the signal at about 5-600 feet AGL. Remember that we are
in central Florida, so the ADS-B coverage here is very good. We had as many
as 9 stations at a time in our short flight up to 5,500 feet MSL. I really like
the Status page (see attached pictures) that gives you the information on the
Stratus. It shows the connectivity, battery status, power source, etc and then
gives information on what data has been downloaded and how long ago. It also
shows the grid of satellites that the unit is receiving location from and how
good the signal is. The accuracy of location, including GPS altitude, is the
best I have seen among the bluetooth GPS, Bad Elf, onboard GPS and the Stratus,
with Accuracy usually 1-2m.
>>>
>>> As you can see from the pictures attached, and as I have already mentioned,
the weather here was way too good to get great pictures as to the usefulness
of the Stratus, but it's the best I can offer so far. I usually just keep up the
map screen with the Radar and Flight Rules shown. For information on a specific
airport, you can just tap on the dot and it will pull up the Metar (and TAF
and Winds Aloft if available). If you scroll down on the pop-up, you can see
the METARs of other local airports, as well as how old the report is. We must
have been getting some medium and/or high altitude ADS-B stations, because we
were getting national CONUS Radar as well as a good range of METARs, PIREPs,
etc.
>>>
>>> If you zoom out on the map, only the bigger airport Flight Rules show up. If
you zoom in, it shows everywhere that reports. It will also paint the surface
winds, cielings, temperature, dew point spread, cloud cover, etc. the same way
that it does the Flight Rules, but this display is my favorite for overall
information. It will only show one of these at a time, as well as Radar at the
same time. It will also show TFR's on the map for those who aren't flying "in
the system".
>>>
>>> My overall impression is very good. I am looking forward to taking a trip outside
the normally shown coverage area, especially after I get the external antenna,
so I can see how accurate the coverage maps are in the 10-18,000 foot
range. One nice thing is that if you are going through a relatively small area
of weak coverage, the information stays on the iPad. It just doesn't update,
so you still should have information, which will start updating as soon as you
get back within coverage.
>>>
>>> The battery on the Stratus has been quite impressive so far. It comes with
a USB cable for charging, as well as an AC adapter, but in a 45 minute flight
the battery was still in the 90%'s. It seemed to stay put really well on the glare
shield and it is low profile, so it doesn't get in my way at all for flying.
>>>
>>> Can it replace XM? In my opinion, for a great deal of my flying, yes, mainly
because of where I live and where and how I fly. I much prefer the screen size
of the iPad to the Garmin Aera, and I like the interface much better than the
Aera. As an all-in-one unit for flight planning, preflight weather, enroute
charts, plates, enroute weather (with the Stratus), I haven't used anything I
think would work better (especially for moving from plane to plane) than the
iPad, Foreflight and the Stratus. It is not for everybody, but for those within
the coverage area, who move from plane to plane, who don't want to have the
monthly subscription, I highly recommend it based on my experience so far. I'll
try to post again after I have taken it on a longer trip through some IMC.
>>>
>>> One thing I would really like to see in Foreflight would be a Winds Aloft display
on the map, like with most XM products. They have surface winds at airports,
which helps, but picking an altitude with Winds Aloft information would
help. It does calculate Time Enroute and overall wind effect for your route in
the route planner, so I guess you could pick different altitudes and see which
one would be fastest, but it would be nice to have a chart (like on the Flight
Cheetah, for the few of you who might have flown with it).
>>>
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>> C: 352-427-0285
>>> F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Building and my knees - the last leg (long & personal) |
Having just returned from my doctor's office with a relatively clean
bill of health, I thought I'd share the story of my knees.
Background; I've had bad knees since adolescence. The initial diagnosis
was something called "Osgood-Schlatter Disease" while in junior high. I
was threatened with an immobilizing cast on the left knee if I didn't
RICE it (Rest, Ice, Compression and Elevation). Training to become a
tackling dummy, I stressed them in the weight room and never made it to
summer practice in high school. So instead I swam, played volleyball,
jogged and RICEd the knees as required.
Thirty-some years later, I started building the '10. The knees had aged
gracefully. Naproxen was always effective and recently became cheap
(Alleve). However, a scan some years ago had shown that I had tears
in the menisci and that surgery would be required at some point. Carpet
or rubber pads on the floor kept the pain and swelling down for the most
part. Otherwise it was a comfortable build since I was lucky enough to
have my workshop/hangar 200 yards out back along with a Maule to fly
while maintaining a steady but leisurely building pace.
The '10 was getting close to flight. Painting started in late 2010 and
I actually had a schedule laid out for completing the paint and doing
the final assembly. I also decided to get arthroscopic surgery on both
knees following final assembly.
Yes, I was 99% done, 99% to go, or however that saying goes.
I first discovered that you can't paint in the winter so the schedule
started to fall apart. When spring returned, the painting was completed
and only final assembly remained. The plan was to take the project to
another airport with a hard surface runway and friendlier terrain for
the initial flights. The challenge was to find some hangar space at a
nearby airport where the project could be completed.
It worked out better than I could have expected. The airport manager at
the nearest airport graciously agreed to let me do the assembly in his
main hangar. It had a painted floor, great lighting, friendly dogs, and
a mechanic who freely shared his tools and expertise. The '10 was
trucked in and assembly began.
However, when the painting was halted for winter, I stayed with the
schedule for bilateral arthroscopic knee surgery. Recovery hurt, but
throughout, the medical team encouraged movement and use of the knees.
When asked, "can I resume normal activities?" The answer was always a
qualified "yes, as much as you can do comfortably".
They have no idea how motivated a homebuilder is, especially on the eve
of flight. And I had no idea how much harder I would work now that I
was away from home and in borrowed space.
Once the final assembly began my days started at sunrise when I had the
privilege of jumping in the Maule with a couple of tool boxes and flying
to my temporary workshop. The airport manager/mechanic worked 8
hours/day, 7 days/week so I did too.
Standing, walking, stooping all put stress on my recently cleaned up
knees. There was pain so I RICEd them when I could. However, the bar
on "what I could do comfortably" had risen. At post-operative checkups,
I told the doctor of the pain and he could see the swelling. We tried
cortisone shots to see if we could get back on the curve towards
recovery. Things would get a little better before getting worse again.
The '10 was looking fantastic! Wings on, seats in, wiring completed...
each step more exciting. Commuting by Maule each day was some of the
best flying I had done since starting the project. With summer temps, I
removed the door on the Maule for some open cockpit fun. But as you can
imagine, the final assembly took 2 or 3 times longer than expected
though it was moving forward without a hitch. That is, except for the
fact that I could barely step up into the Maule and was otherwise
severely hobbled. The fact that my airport host crunched around all
day, without complaint, on an artificial leg probably spurred me on even
further. Though every time he dropped to his knee with a sound only
titanium on concrete can make, it did get my attention.
First flight and the RV grin; it was better than I could have imagined
and it just keeps getting better. The '10 is a fantastic aircraft!!
Really!!! Yes, I'm very proud of having built it but the real kudos go
to Vans for the design and the (quick build) kit. The build was fun,
the flying even better!
Anyway, four months after first flight and one year after surgery, I was
still hobbled and in pain. The doctor went from dismissal to concern
and we decided to do an MRI. I knew my knees were bad but it didn't
sink until I realized that the doctor and his team were a bit shocked
and surprised by what they saw. My left knee in particular looked worse
than before the surgery. It was all rough surfaces with several pieces
of stuff floating around.
So, we re-did the surgery on the left knee. This time I RICEd them more
aggressively as I balanced the injectors on the '540. Five months after
the second surgery, I seem to be on a path to recovery.
Earlier today, my doctor finally smiled and with some relief "released"
me. I admitted that I knew I was abusing my knees after the first
surgery but continued nonetheless. He admitted to having made the
mistake of relying on a patient's tendency to self-limit their
activities based on the pain. It appears that the challenge with most
patients is to keep them moving to maintain flexibility and strength.
With a motivated '10 builder, the challenge was to get me to slow down
and treat my health with the respect it required.
Screwing up my knees is the ONLY regret I have with the experience, but
it was worth it anyway.
Bill "hoping this story is of some value to someone" Watson
http://www.mykitlog.com/mauledriver
N215TG
40605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building and my knees - the last leg (long & personal) |
Sorry to hear about your knees Bill.
I have one knee pad observation. About a year ago I was stumbling through an army/navy
store when I came across the knee and elbow pads our boys wear when in
country. The knee pads are the best I have ever seen or used. Very comfortable
with both wrap around fabric with Velcro plus upper and lower straps that can
be crossed or strung straight. They have a hard knee cap with a padded section
above and below the knee cap for added protection. They can be worn for long
periods of time comfortably without slipping. And the best part is I paid $10.00
a set. Your tax dollars at work.
Robin
Bill Watson wrote:
Having just returned from my doctor's office with a relatively clean
bill of health, I thought I'd share the story of my knees.
Background; I've had bad knees since adolescence. The initial diagnosis
was something called "Osgood-Schlatter Disease" while in junior high. I
was threatened with an immobilizing cast on the left knee if I didn't
RICE it (Rest, Ice, Compression and Elevation). Training to become a
tackling dummy, I stressed them in the weight room and never made it to
summer practice in high school. So instead I swam, played volleyball,
jogged and RICEd the knees as required.
Thirty-some years later, I started building the '10. The knees had aged
gracefully. Naproxen was always effective and recently became cheap
(Alleve). However, a scan some years ago had shown that I had tears
in the menisci and that surgery would be required at some point. Carpet
or rubber pads on the floor kept the pain and swelling down for the most
part. Otherwise it was a comfortable build since I was lucky enough to
have my workshop/hangar 200 yards out back along with a Maule to fly
while maintaining a steady but leisurely building pace.
The '10 was getting close to flight. Painting started in late 2010 and
I actually had a schedule laid out for completing the paint and doing
the final assembly. I also decided to get arthroscopic surgery on both
knees following final assembly.
Yes, I was 99% done, 99% to go, or however that saying goes.
I first discovered that you can't paint in the winter so the schedule
started to fall apart. When spring returned, the painting was completed
and only final assembly remained. The plan was to take the project to
another airport with a hard surface runway and friendlier terrain for
the initial flights. The challenge was to find some hangar space at a
nearby airport where the project could be completed.
It worked out better than I could have expected. The airport manager at
the nearest airport graciously agreed to let me do the assembly in his
main hangar. It had a painted floor, great lighting, friendly dogs, and
a mechanic who freely shared his tools and expertise. The '10 was
trucked in and assembly began.
However, when the painting was halted for winter, I stayed with the
schedule for bilateral arthroscopic knee surgery. Recovery hurt, but
throughout, the medical team encouraged movement and use of the knees.
When asked, "can I resume normal activities?" The answer was always a
qualified "yes, as much as you can do comfortably".
They have no idea how motivated a homebuilder is, especially on the eve
of flight. And I had no idea how much harder I would work now that I
was away from home and in borrowed space.
Once the final assembly began my days started at sunrise when I had the
privilege of jumping in the Maule with a couple of tool boxes and flying
to my temporary workshop. The airport manager/mechanic worked 8
hours/day, 7 days/week so I did too.
Standing, walking, stooping all put stress on my recently cleaned up
knees. There was pain so I RICEd them when I could. However, the bar
on "what I could do comfortably" had risen. At post-operative checkups,
I told the doctor of the pain and he could see the swelling. We tried
cortisone shots to see if we could get back on the curve towards
recovery. Things would get a little better before getting worse again.
The '10 was looking fantastic! Wings on, seats in, wiring completed...
each step more exciting. Commuting by Maule each day was some of the
best flying I had done since starting the project. With summer temps, I
removed the door on the Maule for some open cockpit fun. But as you can
imagine, the final assembly took 2 or 3 times longer than expected
though it was moving forward without a hitch. That is, except for the
fact that I could barely step up into the Maule and was otherwise
severely hobbled. The fact that my airport host crunched around all
day, without complaint, on an artificial leg probably spurred me on even
further. Though every time he dropped to his knee with a sound only
titanium on concrete can make, it did get my attention.
First flight and the RV grin; it was better than I could have imagined
and it just keeps getting better. The '10 is a fantastic aircraft!!
Really!!! Yes, I'm very proud of having built it but the real kudos go
to Vans for the design and the (quick build) kit. The build was fun,
the flying even better!
Anyway, four months after first flight and one year after surgery, I was
still hobbled and in pain. The doctor went from dismissal to concern
and we decided to do an MRI. I knew my knees were bad but it didn't
sink until I realized that the doctor and his team were a bit shocked
and surprised by what they saw. My left knee in particular looked worse
than before the surgery. It was all rough surfaces with several pieces
of stuff floating around.
So, we re-did the surgery on the left knee. This time I RICEd them more
aggressively as I balanced the injectors on the '540. Five months after
the second surgery, I seem to be on a path to recovery.
Earlier today, my doctor finally smiled and with some relief "released"
me. I admitted that I knew I was abusing my knees after the first
surgery but continued nonetheless. He admitted to having made the
mistake of relying on a patient's tendency to self-limit their
activities based on the pain. It appears that the challenge with most
patients is to keep them moving to maintain flexibility and strength.
With a motivated '10 builder, the challenge was to get me to slow down
and treat my health with the respect it required.
Screwing up my knees is the ONLY regret I have with the experience, but
it was worth it anyway.
Bill "hoping this story is of some value to someone" Watson
http://www.mykitlog.com/mauledriver
N215TG
40605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Starting the Annual Oshkosh Camping Thread |
Thought I'd kick start the yearly OSH camping thread... :)
Being a first time OSH camper this year I was curious if arriving the
Saturday before the show is enough to get a halfway decent spot. I know
the group HQ stake-out is no longer happening, but I'm assuming everyone
tries to get in the same area as the HQ has been? Just wondering if the
Sat. before is soon enough to get that area.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Building and my knees - the last leg (long & personal) |
Bill, glad to see you are finally recovering. I've torn the meniscus in both my
knees, once in my late teens and once again last year. The one last year I
had repaired in January and I'm lucky enough to say that I'm back at 100%. But
much like you I over did it in the beginning which lengthened the full recovery.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Building and my knees - the last leg (long & personal)
Having just returned from my doctor's office with a relatively clean bill of health,
I thought I'd share the story of my knees.
Background; I've had bad knees since adolescence. The initial diagnosis was something
called "Osgood-Schlatter Disease" while in junior high. I was threatened
with an immobilizing cast on the left knee if I didn't RICE it (Rest, Ice,
Compression and Elevation). Training to become a tackling dummy, I stressed
them in the weight room and never made it to summer practice in high school.
So instead I swam, played volleyball, jogged and RICEd the knees as required.
Thirty-some years later, I started building the '10. The knees had aged gracefully.
Naproxen was always effective and recently became cheap
(Alleve). However, a scan some years ago had shown that I had tears
in the menisci and that surgery would be required at some point. Carpet or rubber
pads on the floor kept the pain and swelling down for the most part. Otherwise
it was a comfortable build since I was lucky enough to have my workshop/hangar
200 yards out back along with a Maule to fly while maintaining a steady
but leisurely building pace.
The '10 was getting close to flight. Painting started in late 2010 and I actually
had a schedule laid out for completing the paint and doing the final assembly.
I also decided to get arthroscopic surgery on both knees following final
assembly.
Yes, I was 99% done, 99% to go, or however that saying goes.
I first discovered that you can't paint in the winter so the schedule started to
fall apart. When spring returned, the painting was completed and only final
assembly remained. The plan was to take the project to another airport with
a hard surface runway and friendlier terrain for the initial flights. The challenge
was to find some hangar space at a nearby airport where the project could
be completed.
It worked out better than I could have expected. The airport manager at the nearest
airport graciously agreed to let me do the assembly in his main hangar.
It had a painted floor, great lighting, friendly dogs, and a mechanic who freely
shared his tools and expertise. The '10 was trucked in and assembly began.
However, when the painting was halted for winter, I stayed with the schedule for
bilateral arthroscopic knee surgery. Recovery hurt, but throughout, the medical
team encouraged movement and use of the knees.
When asked, "can I resume normal activities?" The answer was always a qualified
"yes, as much as you can do comfortably".
They have no idea how motivated a homebuilder is, especially on the eve of flight.
And I had no idea how much harder I would work now that I was away from home
and in borrowed space.
Once the final assembly began my days started at sunrise when I had the privilege
of jumping in the Maule with a couple of tool boxes and flying to my temporary
workshop. The airport manager/mechanic worked 8 hours/day, 7 days/week so
I did too.
Standing, walking, stooping all put stress on my recently cleaned up knees. There
was pain so I RICEd them when I could. However, the bar on "what I could
do comfortably" had risen. At post-operative checkups, I told the doctor of the
pain and he could see the swelling. We tried cortisone shots to see if we
could get back on the curve towards
recovery. Things would get a little better before getting worse again.
The '10 was looking fantastic! Wings on, seats in, wiring completed...
each step more exciting. Commuting by Maule each day was some of the best flying
I had done since starting the project. With summer temps, I removed the door
on the Maule for some open cockpit fun. But as you can imagine, the final
assembly took 2 or 3 times longer than expected though it was moving forward without
a hitch. That is, except for the fact that I could barely step up into
the Maule and was otherwise severely hobbled. The fact that my airport host
crunched around all day, without complaint, on an artificial leg probably spurred
me on even further. Though every time he dropped to his knee with a sound
only titanium on concrete can make, it did get my attention.
First flight and the RV grin; it was better than I could have imagined and it just
keeps getting better. The '10 is a fantastic aircraft!!
Really!!! Yes, I'm very proud of having built it but the real kudos go to Vans
for the design and the (quick build) kit. The build was fun, the flying even
better!
Anyway, four months after first flight and one year after surgery, I was still
hobbled and in pain. The doctor went from dismissal to concern and we decided
to do an MRI. I knew my knees were bad but it didn't sink until I realized that
the doctor and his team were a bit shocked and surprised by what they saw.
My left knee in particular looked worse than before the surgery. It was all
rough surfaces with several pieces of stuff floating around.
So, we re-did the surgery on the left knee. This time I RICEd them more aggressively
as I balanced the injectors on the '540. Five months after the second
surgery, I seem to be on a path to recovery.
Earlier today, my doctor finally smiled and with some relief "released"
me. I admitted that I knew I was abusing my knees after the first surgery but
continued nonetheless. He admitted to having made the mistake of relying on a
patient's tendency to self-limit their activities based on the pain. It appears
that the challenge with most patients is to keep them moving to maintain
flexibility and strength.
With a motivated '10 builder, the challenge was to get me to slow down and treat
my health with the respect it required.
Screwing up my knees is the ONLY regret I have with the experience, but it was
worth it anyway.
Bill "hoping this story is of some value to someone" Watson http://www.mykitlog.com/mauledriver
N215TG
40605
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Annual Oshkosh Camping Thread |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Unfortunately, I think you'll need to show up a week early. The stories I've heard
from Tom, Bob, and Gary are that folks are coming earlier ever year.
When I've showed in the past on Saturday, most sites around the group area have
been taken. But I wouldn't let that stop you from looking. You never know
what's available.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 27, 2012, at 2:21 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
Thought I'd kick start the yearly OSH camping thread... :)
Being a first time OSH camper this year I was curious if arriving the Saturday
before the show is enough to get a halfway decent spot. I know the group HQ stake-out
is no longer happening, but I'm assuming everyone tries to get in the
same area as the HQ has been? Just wondering if the Sat. before is soon enough
to get that area.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Annual Oshkosh Camping Thread |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
EAA has made some changes which might alleviate some of the issues hat
caused me to "retire" from the group campsite biz. I haven't had time to
read/understand them yet so can't say for sure. If I decide to jump back
in I'll post something.
Bob (Condrey)
On Friday, April 27, 2012, Bob Leffler wrote:
> >
>
> Unfortunately, I think you'll need to show up a week early. The stories
> I've heard from Tom, Bob, and Gary are that folks are coming earlier ever
> year.
>
> When I've showed in the past on Saturday, most sites around the group area
> have been taken. But I wouldn't let that stop you from looking. You
> never know what's available.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 27, 2012, at 2:21 PM, Sean Stephens >
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> Thought I'd kick start the yearly OSH camping thread... :)
>
> Being a first time OSH camper this year I was curious if arriving the
> Saturday before the show is enough to get a halfway decent spot. I know
> the group HQ stake-out is no longer happening, but I'm assuming everyone
> tries to get in the same area as the HQ has been? Just wondering if the
> Sat. before is soon enough to get that area.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: White House user fee petition |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Added one more vote.
Progress again after about a year of waffling whether to sell.
Mazda 20B installed, exhaust mfld done, intake mfld need final welding next week,
then design oil cooler mount and make hoses for oil & water cooling. Only
6 more months, IF I keep my nose to the grindstone !!
Phil (busy moving house & plane 3 miles away) White
Downers Grove, IL #40220
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372006#372006
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/intake_manifold_2_sml_205.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video: Pipistrel Panthera Revealed |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
Some of the features that are unique to the rv-10 that might be worth watching;
unique cowling cooling outlets
left rear seat gull wing door, certainly gives some loading advantages
aerodynamic wing tip
t-tail
ballistic parachute
claimed 1000nm range
12% faster cruise with 210 hp 4 cylinder
probably designed around the IO390
similarities
the gull wings are very similar to rv-10 that I suspect will have the same problems/challenges.
surprising load very similar to rv-10
of course all of these are assertions, but impressive if proven true
should offer a competitive alternative to the high end SR22 and Corvalis market,
not quite as fast, but 40% less fuel burn should make it very attractive
offering a kit should hit into the rv-10 market a bit too, pricey, but the quick
build will probably be pretty quick with composite parts.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372026#372026
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video: Pipistrel Panthera Revealed |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
If you really want some revolutionary claims, check this one out:
LP1
http://www.woodward-aerospace.com/lp1.html
$200K build cost (similar to rv-10)
334 ktas on 14.5 gph
designed around the corvette v8 engine block
which makes it faster than a lot of these multi-million $$ turbine/jets at a fraction
the cost and fuel burn:
Diamond D-Jet 315 ktas 70 gph
Epic LT 350 ktas 70 gph
Evolution Turbine 320 ktas 40 gph
Cessna Mustang 340 ktas 120 gph
Piper Meridian 260 ktas 45 gph
Propjet DLX 250 ktas 35 gph
TBM 850 320 ktas 65 gph
Can anyone explain how this is possible if even believable?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372032#372032
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Video: Pipistrel Panthera Revealed |
The development photos are quite impressive. The designer is not a pilot which
is both refreshing and disturbing all at the same time.
I am going to keep my eye on it.
Robin
Sent from the new iPad
On Apr 28, 2012, at 7:53 PM, "cjay" wrote:
>
> If you really want some revolutionary claims, check this one out:
>
> LP1
> http://www.woodward-aerospace.com/lp1.html
>
> $200K build cost (similar to rv-10)
> 334 ktas on 14.5 gph
> designed around the corvette v8 engine block
>
> which makes it faster than a lot of these multi-million $$ turbine/jets at a
fraction the cost and fuel burn:
> Diamond D-Jet 315 ktas 70 gph
> Epic LT 350 ktas 70 gph
> Evolution Turbine 320 ktas 40 gph
> Cessna Mustang 340 ktas 120 gph
> Piper Meridian 260 ktas 45 gph
> Propjet DLX 250 ktas 35 gph
> TBM 850 320 ktas 65 gph
>
> Can anyone explain how this is possible if even believable?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372032#372032
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel vent modification |
Here is a simple way to keep mud-dabbers from clogging your fuel vent.
I
think more than one RV has collapsed a fuel tank from a clogged vent.
Take a few inches of 3/8=94 aluminum tubing, cut one end at 45 degrees
or so,
then JB Weld on a piece of aluminum window screen material. Once the JB
Weld is cured, clean up the edge on a ScotchBrite wheel or similar. Do
a =BE=94
cut in the other end for a hose clamp, then slide this over the now
somewhat
shortened standard =BC=94 vent tubing. Have the =BC=94 tubing extend
well past
where the clamp goes.
Carl
RV-8A (800 hours)
RV-10 (FSDO comes to inspect May 23rd)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)q.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel vent modification |
A simpler solution; just drill a size 50 hole inside the intersection
fairing on the back side of the vent tube. It will also prevent impact
ice
from sealing a vent.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 2:54 PM
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel vent modification
Here is a simple way to keep mud-dabbers from clogging your fuel vent.
I
think more than one RV has collapsed a fuel tank from a clogged vent.
Take a few inches of 3/8=94 aluminum tubing, cut one end at 45 degrees
or so,
then JB Weld on a piece of aluminum window screen material. Once the JB
Weld is cured, clean up the edge on a ScotchBrite wheel or similar. Do
a =BE=94
cut in the other end for a hose clamp, then slide this over the now
somewhat
shortened standard =BC=94 vent tubing. Have the =BC=94 tubing extend
well past
where the clamp goes.
Carl
RV-8A (800 hours)
RV-10 (FSDO comes to inspect May 23rd)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Connection Conflict |
I have the mount ready to install according to plans but wish now that I
would have moved it two bays out. As received, the tube from the head
will interfere with the torque tube going to the bell crank. My options
seem to be to shorten it or bend it. The aluminum tube running to it
will also have to be changed to align with the head tube. I can see a
pretty sharp bend being needed if the head tube is shortened and wonder
if I will create problems inserting the head into the mount if I bend
the head tube. What have others done to solve this problem? This would
not be an issue if I had moved the mount out two bays.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Building and my knees - the last leg (long & personal) |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Bill, went through a tear myself, although I was only about 20 and in peak physical
condition so it wasn't long before I was back in the game playing soldier.
Recovery can put a damper on many things so it is great to see you push through
it all. I have worn the knee pads Robin mentioned in country. They are one
of the few things the Army got right. Grab a pair and you won't look back. Your
knees will thank you. Mine have!
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372106#372106
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent modification |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
That looks like a great solution, Carl. I have tried to use JB Weld to glue a similar
piece of window screen on the existing vent, and it is so small that it
is difficult to get the screen to stay in place.
It seems to me that the #50 hole on the back of the tube inside the wing root would
work as a way to prevent ice from blocking your vent tube, but couldn't a
mud dauber go past the hole and do it's thing? I also think I would prefer not
to have a vent inside the fairing because of the potential for fumes or avgas
venting inside the fairing.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372110#372110
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Storing wings vertically? |
| From: | "Bill Strahan" <bill(at)gdsx.com> |
It's going to be a while until I get to the wings, and I'm short on space in the
hanger. I've googled but have found nothing on anyone building a stand to hold
the wings vertically.
Obviously I can't work on them that way, but until I start work on them it would
sure free up some space. Any thoughts on a vertical wing stand? Anyone seen
it done already?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372115#372115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ciolino" <JohnCiolino(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Fuel vent modification |
An alternate method: flare the end of the tube, cut a circular patch of
flexible fiberglass screening and make radial cuts leaving center =BC=94
uncut.
The cuts will allow you to wrap the screen around the tube overlapping
the
cut pieces. Secure the screen with a piece of shrink tubing.
Easy to do, lasts a long time (2 years so far on my -8) but can be
easily
replaced if necessary.
John Ciolino
RV-8
N894Y
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:54 PM
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Fuel vent modification
Here is a simple way to keep mud-dabbers from clogging your fuel vent.
I
think more than one RV has collapsed a fuel tank from a clogged vent.
Take a few inches of 3/8=94 aluminum tubing, cut one end at 45 degrees
or so,
then JB Weld on a piece of aluminum window screen material. Once the JB
Weld is cured, clean up the edge on a ScotchBrite wheel or similar. Do
a =BE=94
cut in the other end for a hose clamp, then slide this over the now
somewhat
shortened standard =BC=94 vent tubing. Have the =BC=94 tubing extend
well past
where the clamp goes.
Carl
RV-8A (800 hours)
RV-10 (FSDO comes to inspect May 23rd)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent modification |
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Yep, the 1/4" tubing is just too small to do this. I think I will add the small
hole for the ice issue.
I've had this vent mod on my 8A for 10 years - works fine.
Carl
On Apr 29, 2012, at 9:21 PM, "dmaib(at)me.com" wrote:
>
> That looks like a great solution, Carl. I have tried to use JB Weld to glue a
similar piece of window screen on the existing vent, and it is so small that
it is difficult to get the screen to stay in place.
> It seems to me that the #50 hole on the back of the tube inside the wing root
would work as a way to prevent ice from blocking your vent tube, but couldn't
a mud dauber go past the hole and do it's thing? I also think I would prefer
not to have a vent inside the fairing because of the potential for fumes or avgas
venting inside the fairing.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> Transition Trainer
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372110#372110
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel vent modification |
For anyone that lives in an area where these critters are common, I highl
y recommend you do something to keep them from blocking your vent. I had o
ne block the crankcase vent on my motorcycle years ago and it took me two t
rips to the dealership to try and figure out why I had oil coming up the cl
utch cable before one of the guys said check your breather for mud daubers
and sure enough, it was plugged tight. Couple of good raps on the tube and
a whole lot of dirt later and the problem went away. I'm confident that o
ne of these guys could cause a tank collapse from the vacuum.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 4:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel vent modification
Here is a simple way to keep mud-dabbers from clogging your fuel vent. I t
hink more than one RV has collapsed a fuel tank from a clogged vent.
Take a few inches of 3/8" aluminum tubing, cut one end at 45 degrees or so,
then JB Weld on a piece of aluminum window screen material. Once the JB W
eld is cured, clean up the edge on a ScotchBrite wheel or similar. Do a
=BE" cut in the other end for a hose clamp, then slide this over the now so
mewhat shortened standard =BC" vent tubing. Have the =BC" tubing extend we
ll past where the clamp goes.
Carl
RV-8A (800 hours)
RV-10 (FSDO comes to inspect May 23rd)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
I will be over in Germany next week, north of Frankfurt. Any RV 10
builders over there? It would be fun to see another project across the
pond. Send me an email.
Dr Fred
N515 FW
drfred1960(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent modification |
There just might be some pitot tube covers that would do the trick. Old
aircraft from the post WWII era had pitots that were just 1/4" tubing,
like the Cessnas of that era. Reminds me, should check with airport
maintenance...they collect pitot covers by the dozens off the runways.......
On 4/30/2012 6:18 AM, Michael Sausen wrote:
>
> For anyone that lives in an area where these critters are common, I
> highly recommend you do something to keep them from blocking your
> vent. I had one block the crankcase vent on my motorcycle years ago
> and it took me two trips to the dealership to try and figure out why I
> had oil coming up the clutch cable before one of the guys said check
> your breather for mud daubers and sure enough, it was plugged tight.
> Couple of good raps on the tube and a whole lot of dirt later and the
> problem went away. Im confident that one of these guys could cause a
> tank collapse from the vacuum.
>
> Michael
>
> ****
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Storing wings vertically? |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Bill: The attached photo shows my wing cradle (sorry for the clutter in front;
a challenge of building in a garage). It was made from wood scraps. Plywood
cut to leading-edge curves, with the two wings bottom out, and a slot in the
center for the horizontal stab. Cutouts lined with felt strips. (Some have
made carpet slings instead of using plywood.) Another ply piece at the bottom
to keep things squared up, with casters underneath. Then joined by a 2 x 4
to put them about 8' apart, plus a diagonal brace to keep the vertical ply straight
up.
With the 4" casters, it has been rolled two blocks away to another garage for
storage when I was moving. Also made it easy to roll up onto a trailer for moving.
Phil White
#40220
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=372141#372141
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wing_cradle_123.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight with Stratus Review |
I had an update to WingX that I downloaded this weekend.
In the notes it says that it now supports ADS-B Traffic.
I know Foreflight says they will NOT support traffic
and do not plan to. They have their reasons for this.
At any rate, it now is another differentiating factor
between the 2 apps. I do NOT have ADS-B on my WingX,
(I feel that having ADS-B/WX integrated in the panel is
much better than having it on a separate device, if
possible) so I can't comment on how it works. I also
do not know if it works with the Stratus device or not.
But, I just wanted to pass on this tidbit since it is
also new information.
Tim
On 4/27/2012 7:51 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> And I use my iPad with both Foreflight and WingX (and I had skycharts on
> there long ago too but never use it anymore). I also use mine for
> work (remote access) a bunch, and it's also an entertainment device on
> vacations....movies mostly. So for me, 32Gb would be a minimum,
> and 64Gb is do-able. In fact, my biggest complaint about the iPhone
> and iPad is that I wish each had one model higher in capacity.
> I could really use 64Gb on my iPhone, and I'd love a 128Gb iPad.
> It's the primary reason I didn't buy an iPhone 4S and "New" iPad...had
> they increased the capacity I'd have bought one the first day.
>
> So Robin is right....you can really save money and if you only want
> to use it for flying and some minor things, a 16Gb model would work
> but we aware that you will only be able to have one major app on
> there for flight software, most likely. I'd *always* recommend
> the 3G/4G models because even when just in the car the built-in
> GPS is worth the extra, if you use it for any navigation or mapping.
> (I keep a road GPS app on there too, with all US coverage)
> So for many non-entertainment users, 32Gb would be a logical happy
> medium. If you have kids though, spring for the biggest one you
> can find. We loaded all of our iPads and iPhones up with movies
> and entertainment for our last trip and it was nice to have.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 4/27/2012 7:23 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the comments on the 3 different iPads. I will comment on
>> the 16GB version, which I have in the iPad 2. I do wish I had the 32GB
>> version. That is probably one of the main reasons I have not used
>> WingX much. I was given a subscription to the charts for a year, but
>> because I can't download all of the charts for both Foreflight and
>> WingX (I usually try to keep most or all of the US charts downloaded
>> on Foreflight all the time, even though I very seldom fly out West) as
>> well as keep my other apps on the iPad. I do use the iPad for a lot
>> more than just flying, so if you are just flying, then 16GB should be
>> plenty, but if you want to have movies, audio, lots of apps, etc on
>> the iPad as well as Foreflight (uses a lot more storage than WingX),
>> then you might want to look at 32GB. Just my 2 cents (can't find the
>> cents key on my Macbook).
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On Apr 26, 2012, at 10:10 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Jesse. I just wanted to piggyback on your comments with an
>>> iPad observation. Having owned all three (1, 2& New) I really like
>>> the reduced cost of the iPad 2 3G. Don't get me wrong the New iPad is
>>> nice with 4G and the retina screen but it does get hotter that it's
>>> predecessors for sure and the minor weight difference is noticeable.
>>> The New is definitely an improvement in screen and speed but the iPad
>>> 2 seems to do it all quite well and with a minimum $100 savings. I
>>> say minimum because you can only get the 2 in a 16GB unit. When you
>>> buy the New iPad you may be temped to get the 32 or 64GB as I did for
>>> a mere $829.00 before mandatory cover. So $529.00 vs. $829.00. I know
>>> Tim O would chime in with the need for extra storage but I have done
>>> everything I needed wo going over my 16 GB with a little memory
>>> management.
>>> So my 2 (can't find the cents key on my iPad) are you have a choice
>>> between good and better. You can't lose.
>>>
>>> Robin
>>> Sent from the new iPad
>>>
>>> On Apr 26, 2012, at 7:33 PM, "Jesse Saint"
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I received my Stratus unit from Sporty's the other day and wanted to
>>>> give a report on my impressions for the group. I know there is a lot
>>>> of debate over which app is best for the iPad, especially with the
>>>> new Garmin app released at Sun-N-Fun, but I'm going to try not to
>>>> get into that beyond this statement. I have used Foreflight since
>>>> version 1 or 2 and have only tried WingX a little. Because I am used
>>>> to Foreflight and the navigation and functionality, I have not liked
>>>> my experiences with WingX, but as has been said before, we like what
>>>> we are used to. I use Foreflight for all of my flight planning (I
>>>> usually use www.weathermeister.com<http://www.weathermeister.com>
>>>> for keeping up with the weather for my trip, but use Foreflight for
>>>> all actually route planning, flight plan filing, and charts and
>>>> plates while flying). I have Foreflight on my iPad 2 Wifi and iPhone
>>>> 4. I have used a bluetooth GPS that required jailbreaking the iPad,
>>>> but when that broke (left it on the gla!
>
> rs!
>> hield in the Florida sun for 3-4 hours one day and the battery swelled
>> and broke the case), I bought the Bad Elf. I wasn't very happy with
>> the Bad Elf because I didn't like having it attached to the iPad in
>> use, especially when bouncing around in IMC. I almost pulled the
>> trigger on the new iPad, in which case I would have bought the 4G
>> version, but when I didn't get the call from MacMall on the day they
>> were starting to ship (like they promised they would), I didn't follow
>> through with the purchase.
>>>>
>>>> I was walking through the hangars at Sun-N-Fun and saw the Stratus
>>>> on the first day. After a short talk with a friend of mine, we
>>>> decided to buy it. We had both been saying that as soon as there was
>>>> a portable ADS-B box that worked with Foreflight, we would get it.
>>>> We split the cost and ordered it as well as the external antenna
>>>> (which we haven't received yet). We mainly wanted ADS-B for weather,
>>>> because we were almost to the point of getting the unit that would
>>>> get XM weather onto the iPad, but liked the thought of no
>>>> subscription better.
>>>>
>>>> We just made a flight in N33DQ (Cessna 182) from Arkansas to Florida
>>>> through a lot of IMC, but it was a couple of days too early for the
>>>> Stratus. That would be the real test, especially because of the
>>>> ADS-B service areas and all of the local radar activity.
>>>> Unfortunately, the screen shots I have now are shots with no rain
>>>> within 250nm or more of where I was flying, and not a cloud in the
March 31, 2012 - April 30, 2012
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ir