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September 07, 2012 - October 02, 2012

Jason, I purchased those rings as my triple fall back option. I grabbed them because they looked like a solution but not a convenient one considering all that would be entailed with the conversion on an already flying -10. As far as pressure readings we performed ~30 flights during and just after Phase 1 measuring different DP's to get the plane reasonably flyable. That was nearly 3 years ago and I am long past being interested in more R&D. To answer your question there will be no Before & After as I plan on switching cowls vs. modifying the same cowl so it will be an Apples & Oranges situation which at best would provide minimal actionable information. I wish you the best in developing a solution for this issue but the answer is already out there. It's called the stock Vans cowl & baffle system. I would (and probably should go that route for my replacement cowl but because of my Barrett FFCI / FM300 I have decided to try an impressive new cowl that was specifically developed with that combination of hardware. This is still a leap of faith but there is actually a flying version vs. just going to market with something that "should work." Additionally I will be replacing my Plenum with standard baffles and I hope to never own a plenum again. Best of luck with your development. I will follow your thread on VAF and the RV List. Regards, Robin -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 5:19 AM
Subject: Re: Inlet Ring Size
--> Robin - thanks for posting. Those things look giant! I would think your entering the zone of external pressure recovery. I know you are absolutely sick of this whole cooling thing and just want to move on and get it solved. Before you do that is there any chance we could get you to take some before and after pressure measurements in your cowl? I know I am asking a lot of a guy who is as frustrated as you are. By the way, as Ben said the interior shape of the inlet is really critical on internal pressure recovery type systems (small inlets) like the James Cowl & Plenum. I am of the unverified opinion right now that the interior shape of the James cowl inlet is the problem. Putting together the test plan and data right now to verify that. Check out: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=12633 Thanks - Jason -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382580#382580 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
Date: Sep 07, 2012
Here is what I did. Made a little aluminum cap that pressed into the rod. Looks good and Is easy on the thumb Geoff Geoff Combs Aerosport Modeling and Design 8090 howe industrial pkwy canal winchester, ohio 43110 614.834.5227p 614.834.5230f www.aerosportmodeling.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 12:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 Anyone fab a button, cover, whatever that fits over the C-1007 that is depressed to rotate the exterior door handle? Seems odd that there's nothing that covers the hole and it may be uncomfortable to press it. -Sean #40303 (finishing cabin top interior) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Sep 07, 2012
I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. Jim Berry N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
Date: Sep 07, 2012
I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number nor which section I got it from. -----Original Message----- From: Jim Berry Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. Jim Berry N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Re: Inlet Ring Size
Date: Sep 07, 2012
Jason They are considerably larger @ 6.25 ID for about an additional 4.5 sq-in over the originals. DQoNClNlbnQgZnJvbSBteSBpUGhvbmUNCg0KT24gU2VwIDcsIDIwMTIsIGF0IDc6MjcgQU0sICJq a3JlaWRsZXIiIDxqYXNvbi5rcmVpZGxlckByZWdhbGJlbG9pdC5jb20+IHdyb3RlOg0KDQo+IC0t PiBSVjEwLUxpc3QgbWVzc2FnZSBwb3N0ZWQgYnk6ICJqa3JlaWRsZXIiIDxqYXNvbi5rcmVpZGxl ckByZWdhbGJlbG9pdC5jb20+DQo+IA0KPiBSb2JpbiAtIHRoYW5rcyBmb3IgcG9zdGluZy4gIFRo b3NlIHRoaW5ncyBsb29rIGdpYW50ISAgSSB3b3VsZCB0aGluayB5b3VyIGVudGVyaW5nIHRoZSB6 b25lIG9mIGV4dGVybmFsIHByZXNzdXJlIHJlY292ZXJ5LiAgSSBrbm93IHlvdSBhcmUgYWJzb2x1 dGVseSBzaWNrIG9mIHRoaXMgd2hvbGUgY29vbGluZyB0aGluZyBhbmQganVzdCB3YW50IHRvIG1v dmUgb24gYW5kIGdldCBpdCBzb2x2ZWQuICBCZWZvcmUgeW91IGRvIHRoYXQgaXMgdGhlcmUgYW55 IGNoYW5jZSB3ZSBjb3VsZCBnZXQgeW91IHRvIHRha2Ugc29tZSBiZWZvcmUgYW5kIGFmdGVyIHBy ZXNzdXJlIG1lYXN1cmVtZW50cyBpbiB5b3VyIGNvd2w/ICBJIGtub3cgSSBhbSBhc2tpbmcgYSBs b3Qgb2YgYSBndXkgd2hvIGlzIGFzIGZydXN0cmF0ZWQgYXMgeW91IGFyZS4NCj4gDQo+IEJ5IHRo ZSB3YXksIGFzIEJlbiBzYWlkIHRoZSBpbnRlcmlvciBzaGFwZSBvZiB0aGUgaW5sZXQgaXMgcmVh bGx5IGNyaXRpY2FsIG9uIGludGVybmFsIHByZXNzdXJlIHJlY292ZXJ5IHR5cGUgc3lzdGVtcyAo c21hbGwgaW5sZXRzKSBsaWtlIHRoZSBKYW1lcyBDb3dsICYgUGxlbnVtLiAgSSBhbSBvZiB0aGUg dW52ZXJpZmllZCBvcGluaW9uIHJpZ2h0IG5vdyB0aGF0IHRoZSBpbnRlcmlvciBzaGFwZSBvZiB0 aGUgSmFtZXMgY293bCBpbmxldCBpcyB0aGUgcHJvYmxlbS4gIFB1dHRpbmcgdG9nZXRoZXIgdGhl IHRlc3QgcGxhbiBhbmQgZGF0YSByaWdodCBub3cgdG8gdmVyaWZ5IHRoYXQuDQo+IA0KPiBDaGVj ayBvdXQ6IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cudmFuc2FpcmZvcmNlLmNvbS9jb21tdW5pdHkvc2hvd3RocmVhZC5w aHA/dD0xMjYzMw0KPiANCj4gVGhhbmtzIC0gSmFzb24NCj4gDQo+IC0tLS0tLS0tDQo+IEphc29u IEtyZWlkbGVyDQo+IDQgUGFydG5lciBCdWlsZCAtIFNoZWJveWdhbiBGYWxscywgV0kNCj4gVG9u eSBLb2xhciwgS3lsZSBIb2tlbCwgV2F5bmUgRWxzZXIsIEphc29uIEtyZWlkbGVyDQo+IE40NFlI IC0gRmx5aW5nIC0gIzQwNjE3DQo+IA0KPiANCj4gDQo+IA0KPiBSZWFkIHRoaXMgdG9waWMgb25s aW5lIGhlcmU6DQo+IA0KPiBodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vdmlld3RvcGljLnBo cD9wPTM4MjU4MCMzODI1ODANCj4gDQo+IA0KPiANCj4gDQo+IA0KPiANCj4gDQo+IF8tPT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQo+ IF8tPSAgICAgICAgICAtIFRoZSBSVjEwLUxpc3QgRW1haWwgRm9ydW0gLQ0KPiBfLT0gVXNlIHRo ZSBNYXRyb25pY3MgTGlzdCBGZWF0dXJlcyBOYXZpZ2F0b3IgdG8gYnJvd3NlDQo+IF8tPSB0aGUg bWFueSBMaXN0IHV0aWxpdGllcyBzdWNoIGFzIExpc3QgVW4vU3Vic2NyaXB0aW9uLA0KPiBfLT0g QXJjaGl2ZSBTZWFyY2ggJiBEb3dubG9hZCwgNy1EYXkgQnJvd3NlLCBDaGF0LCBGQVEsDQo+IF8t PSBQaG90b3NoYXJlLCBhbmQgbXVjaCBtdWNoIG1vcmU6DQo+IF8tPQ0KPiBfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0 cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL05hdmlnYXRvcj9SVjEwLUxpc3QNCj4gXy09DQo+IF8tPT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 DQo+IF8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAgIC0gTUFUUk9OSUNTIFdFQiBGT1JVTVMgLQ0KPiBfLT0gU2Ft ZSBncmVhdCBjb250ZW50IGFsc28gYXZhaWxhYmxlIHZpYSB0aGUgV2ViIEZvcnVtcyENCj4gXy09 DQo+IF8tPSAgIC0tPiBodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20NCj4gXy09DQo+IF8tPT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 DQo+IF8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAtIExpc3QgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIFdlYiBTaXRlIC0NCj4gXy09 ICBUaGFuayB5b3UgZm9yIHlvdXIgZ2VuZXJvdXMgc3VwcG9ydCENCj4gXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAg ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLg0KPiBfLT0gICAtLT4g aHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbg0KPiBfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQ0KPiANCj4gDQo+ IA0KPiANCg= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2012
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Pads?
I typically fly between 100 - 200 hours per year and put new pads on every annual.- My first two years I flew 250 hours and I replaced them at 230 h ours. =0A=0Ahttp://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=149271 #post149271=0A=0AIt is a pretty cheap item compared to the problems it may cause when your on a trip away from your tools.- If you replaced them at 200 hours you would probably be safe and could start to extend the time dep ending on your flying and braking.- =0A=0A-=0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmsch midt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A=0A>________________________________=0A> From: Pasca l =0A>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A>Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2012 9:58 AM=0A>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Brake Pads?=0A> =0A>My contact is out this week but I'll follow-up next week and see if I c an get a status on the pads. I thought he told me he was getting a new supp ly after OSH, maybe he sold off that stock already, which is surprising con sidering how many he was getting. Supposedly the "old" stock was far more d urable than the new ones Rapco is working on getting certified or something . A few months back Rapco mentioned that the new ones would be out by SnF, than it was OSH.=0A>Hopefully I'll be able to get a more official response on options by next week.=0A>=0A>=0A>-----Original Message----- From: rv10fl yer=0A>Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 6:16 PM=0A>To: rv10-list@matronics. com=0A>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake Pads?=0A>=0A>--> RV10-List message pos ted by: "rv10flyer" =0A>=0A>When someone hears t hey are available again, please post.=0A>=0A>I am only at 76.9 hrs, but I l ike keeping spares on hand of oil filter/oil/tires/tubes/pads/start & maste r contactors/fuel selector valve/prop oring/caliper oring. I have all but p ads and caliper oring in case someone gets in a bind and is near S. Ohio. =0A>=0A>--------=0A>Wayne Gillispie=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>Read this topic onli ne here:=0A>=0A>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382350#382350 =- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle ===========0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
Date: Sep 07, 2012
I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring around it. -Chris N919AR -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number nor which section I got it from. -----Original Message----- From: Jim Berry Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. Jim Berry N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2012
Subject: Re: Inlet Ring Size
From: John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com>
I am one who believes in that hypothesis. Caressing rather than torturing for the desired result. John On Sep 7, 2012 5:22 AM, "jkreidler" wrote: > jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> > > Robin - thanks for posting. Those things look giant! I would think your > entering the zone of external pressure recovery. I know you are absolutely > sick of this whole cooling thing and just want to move on and get it > solved. Before you do that is there any chance we could get you to take > some before and after pressure measurements in your cowl? I know I am > asking a lot of a guy who is as frustrated as you are. > > By the way, as Ben said the interior shape of the inlet is really critical > on internal pressure recovery type systems (small inlets) like the James > Cowl & Plenum. I am of the unverified opinion right now that the interior > shape of the James cowl inlet is the problem. Putting together the test > plan and data right now to verify that. > > Check out: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=12633 > > Thanks - Jason > > -------- > Jason Kreidler > 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI > Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler > N44YH - Flying - #40617 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382580#382580 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 07, 2012
Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... -Mike Kraus RV-10 Flying Sent from my iPhone On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: > > I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed > into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. > Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring > around it. > -Chris > N919AR > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 > > > I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part numb er > nor which section I got it from. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Berry > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 > > > I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. > > Jim Berry > N15JB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > >

________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sep 08, 2012
The part number of the button that Vans provides is C-1015 -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382663#382663 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Sep 08, 2012
Mike, Where did you get the door open decal? Alan Sent from my iPhone On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... > -Mike Kraus > RV-10 Flying > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: > >> >> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >> around it. >> -Chris >> N919AR >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >> >> >> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >> nor which section I got it from. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Jim Berry >> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >> >> >> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >> >> Jim Berry >> N15JB >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > =================================== > =================================== > =================================== > =================================== >> >> >> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
Date: Sep 08, 2012
Aircraft Spruce, or make one yourself. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/fbpages/FBoearrow.php -----Original Message----- From: Alan Mekler MD Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 5:07 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 Mike, Where did you get the door open decal? Alan Sent from my iPhone On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... > -Mike Kraus > RV-10 Flying > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: > >> >> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >> around it. >> -Chris >> N919AR >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >> >> >> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part >> number >> nor which section I got it from. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Jim Berry >> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >> >> >> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >> >> Jim Berry >> N15JB >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > =================================== > =================================== > =================================== > =================================== >> >> >> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 08, 2012
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
Interesting. That part is in bag 1547, but I can't locate anything in the plans for that. Thanks all for the insight. -Sean On 9/8/12 6:31 AM, bill.peyton wrote: > > The part number of the button that Vans provides is C-1015 > > -------- > Bill > WA0SYV > Aviation Partners, LLC > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382663#382663 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad
Date: Sep 08, 2012
I flew several times recently with the new Google Nexus 7 tablet mostly for listening to music through my Bluetooth routed to my audio panel. What str uck me is how nearly perfect the 7" tablet is as a kneeboard replacement. T hat being the case I have a feeling that when Apple comes out with their 8" iPad mated with Foreflight or ??? that may be a very nice choice for cockp it use as the 10" iPad always seems to be a bit too large and in the way. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 08, 2012
I purchased the decals from Vans, it's in their catalog. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > Mike, > Where did you get the door open decal? > Alan > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > >> Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... >> -Mike Kraus >> RV-10 Flying >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: >> >>> >>> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >>> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >>> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >>> around it. >>> -Chris >>> N919AR >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>> >>> >>> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >>> nor which section I got it from. >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Jim Berry >>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>> >>> >>> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >>> >>> Jim Berry >>> N15JB >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> =================================== >> =================================== >> =================================== >> =================================== >>> >>> >>> >> >>
>> >> >>
> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Sep 08, 2012
Mike, Thanks. Alan On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > I purchased the decals from Vans, it's in their catalog. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 8, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > >> >> Mike, >> Where did you get the door open decal? >> Alan >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >> >>> Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... >>> -Mike Kraus >>> RV-10 Flying >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >>>> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >>>> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >>>> around it. >>>> -Chris >>>> N919AR >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>> >>>> >>>> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >>>> nor which section I got it from. >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: Jim Berry >>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>> >>>> >>>> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >>>> >>>> Jim Berry >>>> N15JB >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Read this topic online here: >>>> >>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> =================================== >>> =================================== >>> =================================== >>> =================================== >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>>
>>> >>> >>>
>> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 08, 2012
Subject: Re: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad
From: John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com>
I have been thrilled at the versatility of my Nexus. If only Foreflight would write code for Androids. John On Sep 8, 2012 9:55 AM, "Robin Marks" wrote: > I flew several times recently with the new Google Nexus 7 tablet mostly > for listening to music through my Bluetooth routed to my audio panel. What > struck me is how nearly perfect the 7" tablet is as a kneeboard > replacement. That being the case I have a feeling that when Apple comes out > with their 8" iPad mated with Foreflight or ??? that may be a very nice > choice for cockpit use as the 10" iPad always seems to be a bit too large > and in the way.**** > > ** ** > > Robin**** > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
Mike, just went to order door decals and i noticed my door opens(clockwise) the opposite direction of yours.?? Alan On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > Mike, > Thanks. > Alan > On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > >> >> I purchased the decals from Vans, it's in their catalog. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 8, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >> >>> >>> Mike, >>> Where did you get the door open decal? >>> Alan >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>> >>>> Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... >>>> -Mike Kraus >>>> RV-10 Flying >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >>>>> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >>>>> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >>>>> around it. >>>>> -Chris >>>>> N919AR >>>>> >>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >>>>> nor which section I got it from. >>>>> >>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>> From: Jim Berry >>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >>>>> >>>>> Jim Berry >>>>> N15JB >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>> >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> =================================== >>>> =================================== >>>> =================================== >>>> =================================== >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>
>>>> >>>> >>>>
>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
Hmmmm, mine definitely turn counter clockwise to open. You might want to re-check yours, I don't think it should be any different. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 9, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > Mike, > just went to order door decals and i noticed my door opens(clockwise) the opposite direction of yours.?? > Alan > On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > >> >> Mike, >> Thanks. >> Alan >> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >> >>> >>> I purchased the decals from Vans, it's in their catalog. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Mike, >>>> Where did you get the door open decal? >>>> Alan >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>>> >>>>> Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... >>>>> -Mike Kraus >>>>> RV-10 Flying >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >>>>>> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >>>>>> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >>>>>> around it. >>>>>> -Chris >>>>>> N919AR >>>>>> >>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >>>>>> nor which section I got it from. >>>>>> >>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>> From: Jim Berry >>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >>>>>> >>>>>> Jim Berry >>>>>> N15JB >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>>> >>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> =================================== >>>>> =================================== >>>>> =================================== >>>>> =================================== >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> >>>>>
>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
Hmmm, how many sides does and RV10 have? Do they BOTH open clockwise or both open counterclockwise? On Sep 9, 2012, at 12:41 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > Hmmmm, mine definitely turn counter clockwise to open. You might want to re-check yours, I don't think it should be any different. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 9, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > >> >> Mike, >> just went to order door decals and i noticed my door opens(clockwise) the opposite direction of yours.?? >> Alan >> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >> >>> >>> Mike, >>> Thanks. >>> Alan >>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> I purchased the decals from Vans, it's in their catalog. >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> Mike, >>>>> Where did you get the door open decal? >>>>> Alan >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... >>>>>> -Mike Kraus >>>>>> RV-10 Flying >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>> >>>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >>>>>>> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >>>>>>> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >>>>>>> around it. >>>>>>> -Chris >>>>>>> N919AR >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >>>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >>>>>>> nor which section I got it from. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>> From: Jim Berry >>>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >>>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Jim Berry >>>>>>> N15JB >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> =================================== >>>>>> =================================== >>>>>> =================================== >>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>
>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
My pilots side opens clockwise My copilots side opens counterclokwise Both sides it is a down direction. Alan Sent from my iPhone On Sep 9, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Hmmm, how many sides does and RV10 have? Do they BOTH open clockwise or both open counterclockwise? > > > > On Sep 9, 2012, at 12:41 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > >> >> Hmmmm, mine definitely turn counter clockwise to open. You might want to re-check yours, I don't think it should be any different. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 9, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >> >>> >>> Mike, >>> just went to order door decals and i noticed my door opens(clockwise) the opposite direction of yours.?? >>> Alan >>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Mike, >>>> Thanks. >>>> Alan >>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> I purchased the decals from Vans, it's in their catalog. >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Mike, >>>>>> Where did you get the door open decal? >>>>>> Alan >>>>>> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>> >>>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... >>>>>>> -Mike Kraus >>>>>>> RV-10 Flying >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >>>>>>>> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >>>>>>>> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >>>>>>>> around it. >>>>>>>> -Chris >>>>>>>> N919AR >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >>>>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >>>>>>>> nor which section I got it from. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>>> From: Jim Berry >>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >>>>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Jim Berry >>>>>>>> N15JB >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>
>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
Yes, that is how mine work. Sorry for the mistake. The picture I posted was of the pass side. It opens CCW. Pilot side opens clockwise. You need to buy one of each decal. -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone On Sep 9, 2012, at 2:33 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > My pilots side opens clockwise > My copilots side opens counterclokwise > Both sides it is a down direction. > Alan > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 9, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > >> >> Hmmm, how many sides does and RV10 have? Do they BOTH open clockwise or both open counterclockwise? >> >> >> >> On Sep 9, 2012, at 12:41 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >> >>> >>> Hmmmm, mine definitely turn counter clockwise to open. You might want to re-check yours, I don't think it should be any different. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Sep 9, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Mike, >>>> just went to order door decals and i noticed my door opens(clockwise) the opposite direction of yours.?? >>>> Alan >>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> Mike, >>>>> Thanks. >>>>> Alan >>>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I purchased the decals from Vans, it's in their catalog. >>>>>> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>> >>>>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Mike, >>>>>>> Where did you get the door open decal? >>>>>>> Alan >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... >>>>>>>> -Mike Kraus >>>>>>>> RV-10 Flying >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >>>>>>>>> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >>>>>>>>> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >>>>>>>>> around it. >>>>>>>>> -Chris >>>>>>>>> N919AR >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >>>>>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >>>>>>>>> nor which section I got it from. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>>>> From: Jim Berry >>>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >>>>>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Jim Berry >>>>>>>>> N15JB >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: Alan Mekler <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
Mike , Thanks to Tim's post I went down to the plane and noticed the difference. I always get in the pilot side and unlock the passenger door from the inside. Alan Just assumed they Sent from my iPad On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:15 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > Yes, that is how mine work. Sorry for the mistake. The picture I posted was of the pass side. It opens CCW. Pilot side opens clockwise. You need to buy one of each decal. > -Mike Kraus > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 9, 2012, at 2:33 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > >> >> My pilots side opens clockwise >> My copilots side opens counterclokwise >> Both sides it is a down direction. >> Alan >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 9, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >> >>> >>> Hmmm, how many sides does and RV10 have? Do they BOTH open clockwise or both open counterclockwise? >>> >>> >>> >>> On Sep 9, 2012, at 12:41 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Hmmmm, mine definitely turn counter clockwise to open. You might want to re-check yours, I don't think it should be any different. >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>> On Sep 9, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> Mike, >>>>> just went to order door decals and i noticed my door opens(clockwise) the opposite direction of yours.?? >>>>> Alan >>>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Mike, >>>>>> Thanks. >>>>>> Alan >>>>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 7:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I purchased the decals from Vans, it's in their catalog. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sep 8, 2012, at 8:07 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mike, >>>>>>>> Where did you get the door open decal? >>>>>>>> Alan >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 11:18 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Mine also have this nylon button. Came with my kit.... >>>>>>>>> -Mike Kraus >>>>>>>>> RV-10 Flying >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:37 PM, "Chris" wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> I could have sworn the kit came with a little plastic cap that I pressed >>>>>>>>>> into the button hole - don't recall having to source from HD or anywhere. >>>>>>>>>> Only thing I don't like now is that the shaft has a little corrosion ring >>>>>>>>>> around it. >>>>>>>>>> -Chris >>>>>>>>>> N919AR >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>>>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 1:41 PM >>>>>>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> I used a plastic cover from HD as well. Sorry can not locate the part number >>>>>>>>>> nor which section I got it from. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>>>>>>> From: Jim Berry >>>>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:25 AM >>>>>>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>>>>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007 >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> I used a nylon button from HD, held in place with some RTV. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Jim Berry >>>>>>>>>> N15JB >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382618#382618 >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>>> =================================== >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button For Exterior Door Handle C-1007
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
The tube should be made from SS to prevent rusting. I used proseal in the hole, cured, sanded, painted. Since I don't have SS, I just keep it lubricated. -------- Wayne Gillispie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382781#382781 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bart van Ruth" <bart.van.ruth(at)wxs.nl>
Subject: First Flight
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Hi, First RV 10 to go airborne in the land of VAN's On Sunday the 9 of September 2012 @1600 the RV 10 formerly known as 40786, now called PH-USN, maid its first flight. It lasted one hour and she performed flawless. Engine: Lycoming IO540, Propeller: MTV-12-B, Avionics: Garmin 900X The proud owner bart VAN ruth ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First Flight
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Congratulations Bart! -Mike Kraus RV-10 Flying Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2012, at 3:30 AM, "Bart van Ruth" wrote: > Hi, > > First RV 10 to go airborne in the land of VAN's > On Sunday the 9 of September 2012 @1600 the RV 10 formerly known as 40786, now called PH-USN, maid its first flight. It lasted one hour and she perfor med flawless. > > Engine: Lycoming IO540, Propeller: MTV-12-B, Avionics: Garmin 900X > The proud owner > bart VAN ruth ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First Flight
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Well done Bart Warm regards from Downunder Patrick Pulis Adelaide, South Australia On 10/09/2012, at 5:00 PM, "Bart van Ruth" wrote: > Hi, > > First RV 10 to go airborne in the land of VAN's > On Sunday the 9 of September 2012 @1600 the RV 10 formerly known as 40786, now called PH-USN, maid its first flight. It lasted one hour and she perfor med flawless. > > Engine: Lycoming IO540, Propeller: MTV-12-B, Avionics: Garmin 900X > The proud owner > bart VAN ruth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Subject: Re: First Flight
From: Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com>
Congratulations Bart! Bob On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 2:30 AM, Bart van Ruth wrote: > Hi, > > *First RV 10 to go airborne in the land of VAN's* > ** > On Sunday the 9 of September 2012 @1600 the RV 10 formerly known as 40786, > now called PH-USN, maid its first flight. It lasted one hour and she > performed flawless. > [image: DSC02934] > Engine: Lycoming IO540, Propeller: MTV-12-B, Avionics: Garmin 900X > The proud owner > bart VAN ruth > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John J" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: First Flight
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Nice job! Great colors, too! From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bart van Ruth Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 12:30 AM Subject: RV10-List: First Flight Hi, First RV 10 to go airborne in the land of VAN's On Sunday the 9 of September 2012 @1600 the RV 10 formerly known as 40786, now called PH-USN, maid its first flight. It lasted one hour and she performed flawless. DSC02934 Engine: Lycoming IO540, Propeller: MTV-12-B, Avionics: Garmin 900X The proud owner bart VAN ruth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2012
From: "Robert E. Brunkenhoefer" <robertbrunk(at)mac.com>
Subject: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn
LinkedIn ------------ I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn. - Robert E. Robert E. Brunkenhoefer President at Brunkenhoefer Law Firm,P.C. Corpus Christi, Texas Area Confirm that you know Robert E. Brunkenhoefer: https://www.linkedin.com/e/-sz93rx-h6xsfjxa-4d/isd/8581147271/OYFR7gU-/?hs=false&tok=0LG6pPDYp-EBo1 -- You are receiving Invitation to Connect emails. Click to unsubscribe: http://www.linkedin.com/e/-sz93rx-h6xsfjxa-4d/M1dP6EvPZsp5Kz05MYeEhjj_ABb_JzsmiLrf/goo/rv10-list%40matronics%2Ecom/20061/I2885737899_1/?hs=false&tok=1blHs1ocl-EBo1 (c) 2012 LinkedIn Corporation. 2029 Stierlin Ct, Mountain View, CA 94043, USA. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First Flight
From: "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca>
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Your gonna love it. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382823#382823 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: First Flight
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Way to go Bart! If you have not run out of digital film please send photos of your panel etc... From one 900x owner to another. Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bart van Ruth Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 12:30 AM Subject: RV10-List: First Flight Hi, First RV 10 to go airborne in the land of VAN's On Sunday the 9 of September 2012 @1600 the RV 10 formerly known as 40786, now called PH-USN, maid its first flight. It lasted one hour and she perfor med flawless. [DSC02934] Engine: Lycoming IO540, Propeller: MTV-12-B, Avionics: Garmin 900X The proud owner bart VAN ruth ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John MacCallum" <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: PH-USN
Date: Sep 11, 2012
Congrtaulations Bart Uniform Sierra November sure looks nice. I'm looking forward to the day when I can share in the RV grin. Enjoy yourself Cheers John MacCallum VH-DUU RV 10 # 41016 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
From: "duawil" <aaa(at)pacifier.com>
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Would like to put heating elements in the seat back and seat bottom so my wife can stay warm. Looking for recommendations. Bought a set from Warmseats.com, but they seem to be a little to large to lay completely flat on the foam between the cushion and the cover. Thanks. -------- Building RV9A with Z-14 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382844#382844 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
I used warm seats on my 10 and they work great. I had Aerosport products do my seats and they were able to install them no problem. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2012, at 23:35, "duawil" wrote: > > Would like to put heating elements in the seat back and seat bottom so my wife can stay warm. Looking for recommendations. > > Bought a set from Warmseats.com, but they seem to be a little to large to lay completely flat on the foam between the cushion and the cover. > > Thanks. > > -------- > Building RV9A with Z-14 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382844#382844 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
The gal at Flightline interiors sent me a link to some that she uses. I can't find it right off hand, but I'm sure she'd tell you. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing kit in progress. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382851#382851 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
I got a set from Check corporation for my 6A - they're great. Three settings. I set up the wiring so the button is right next to the cabin heat valve on each side. Also wired it up so it is easily removeable for maintenance. DJ installed them when she built my seats. -----Original Message----- >From: duawil <aaa(at)pacifier.com> >Sent: Sep 10, 2012 11:35 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Looking for recommendations for heated seats > > >Would like to put heating elements in the seat back and seat bottom so my wife can stay warm. Looking for recommendations. > >Bought a set from Warmseats.com, but they seem to be a little to large to lay completely flat on the foam between the cushion and the cover. > >Thanks. > >-------- >Building RV9A with Z-14 > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382844#382844 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
I got mine from Heated Seat Kits dot com: http://www.heatedseatkits.com/heatedseatkits/index.html I got them several years ago, and the prices have obviously gone up. I got the Seat Comfort Systems, but the others look good, as well. I installed them myself using my seat covers from Abby at Flightline Interiors. They work great, but the lumbar support pad tends to limit the heat in the seat back. I put the buttons on the console between the seats. The relay for seat heat power is fairly large so I installed it underneath the passenger seat. That way, the quick disconnect plugs for the actual heaters can stay between the tunnel cover and the seat track, where they plug into the wires coming out of the tunnel. John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382866#382866 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
I've got these in my RV-8, they work great and you can trim them: http://www.amazon.com/Setting-Universal-Carbon-Fiber-Heater/dp/B004JOBWZ0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Bill Judge N84WJ, RV-8, 815 hrs http://rv-8.blogspot.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
What does heated seats do for y'all? My perception is that we have an excess of cabin heat for most conditions(?). Is it primarily for startup? On for cruise? I assume one would not have the battery power to pre-warm. I've never had a car or anything with heated seats so I just don't know. I'm sure northern ops are more of a challenge. I'm sure my co-pilot would love me forever if her seat was warmed. The temperature issue I need to address is a cold draft from rear to the copilot seat. It seems to be from my unsealed baggage door. Anyone have a good recommendation? Thanks, Bill Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net>
Subject: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
Date: Sep 11, 2012
Here is where I got mine from, Abby incorporated them no problem.... http://www.heatedseatkits.com/heatedseatkits/index.html Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of duawil Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 10:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: Looking for recommendations for heated seats Would like to put heating elements in the seat back and seat bottom so my wife can stay warm. Looking for recommendations. Bought a set from Warmseats.com, but they seem to be a little to large to lay completely flat on the foam between the cushion and the cover. Thanks. -------- Building RV9A with Z-14 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382844#382844 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
In my case, it was partially to accomodate my wife's back issue (lumbar). She has heated seats in her car which I have grown to appreciate. Additionally, the excess heat is directed at the feet initially. My seat heaters allow me to run the cabin heat at a lower level until the entire cabin is warm while providing immediate comfort to the back/butt area. -----Original Message----- >From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> >Sent: Sep 11, 2012 10:05 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Looking for recommendations for heated seats > > >What does heated seats do for y'all? My perception is that we have an >excess of cabin heat for most conditions(?). >Is it primarily for startup? On for cruise? I assume one would not >have the battery power to pre-warm. > >I've never had a car or anything with heated seats so I just don't >know. I'm sure northern ops are more of a challenge. I'm sure my >co-pilot would love me forever if her seat was warmed. > >The temperature issue I need to address is a cold draft from rear to >the copilot seat. It seems to be from my unsealed baggage door. Anyone >have a good recommendation? > >Thanks, >Bill Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Seat covers
Date: Sep 11, 2012
Can anyone recommend a source for sheepskin or other good seat covers? My Flightline leather seats get a bit sticky. Dave Leikam ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
Those look just like my warm seats. We trimmed mine as well but only length w ise not width wise. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:58, Bill Judge wrote: > I've got these in my RV-8, they work great and you can trim them: > http://www.amazon.com/Setting-Universal-Carbon-Fiber-Heater/dp/B004JOBWZ0/ ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top > > Bill Judge > N84WJ, RV-8, 815 hrs > http://rv-8.blogspot.com/ > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
From: "duawil" <aaa(at)pacifier.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions/info. I am going ahead with the install of what I got from Flyboyaccessories.com after discussing it with Abby. -------- Building RV10. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382878#382878 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Seat covers
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
Paid $650 at a local upholstery shop for cloth. Great winter or summer and lightweight. I bet you could get someone local to make some covers for yours too. -------- Wayne Gillispie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382882#382882 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for recommendations for heated seats
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
I have $650 in lightweight and warm cloth seats from a local upholstery shop. It is like A/C...nice to have, but is not necessary. Bill, Ensure your baggage bulkhead corrugations are sealed off. Pick a cold morning and have someone ride in the back to altitude then leak check everything. -------- Wayne Gillispie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382884#382884 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Vinyl
From: Bob Kaufmann <bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
Has anyone used any vinyl artwork and how well does it work? Bob K Sent from my iPad On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:10 AM, "duawil" wrote: > > Thanks everyone for all the suggestions/info. > > I am going ahead with the install of what I got from Flyboyaccessories.com after discussing it with Abby. > > -------- > Building RV10. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382878#382878 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Vinyl
Date: Sep 11, 2012
I had some done. Decals for doors..... Aircraft Name on Tail (Curious George) RV-10 on tail 4.5 years and are holding up great. The graphics shop also did the stencils for the 12" aircraft numbers Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kaufmann Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 1:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Vinyl Has anyone used any vinyl artwork and how well does it work? Bob K Sent from my iPad On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:10 AM, "duawil" wrote: > > Thanks everyone for all the suggestions/info. > > I am going ahead with the install of what I got from Flyboyaccessories.com after discussing it with Abby. > > -------- > Building RV10. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382878#382878 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Vinyl
Date: Sep 11, 2012
I was considering some custom vinyl graphics for my 8A. These people were recommended to me based on their prior work. It's especially inexpensive if you get multiple items gang printed. Also make sure you order the premium vinyl with lamination as it reportedly holds up better when exposed to UV and the elements. (includes some notes from my records) Stickers: http://ocsigns.com/decal_calculator.php Prints to "match" Pantone or PMS colors. Suggest Premium Vinyl Adhesive Decals with Lamination. Order Vinyl Letters at the same time to match Sheen & Color Gang print Stars & Bars etc... Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kaufmann Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 12:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Vinyl Has anyone used any vinyl artwork and how well does it work? Bob K Sent from my iPad On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:10 AM, "duawil" wrote: > > Thanks everyone for all the suggestions/info. > > I am going ahead with the install of what I got from Flyboyaccessories.com after discussing it with Abby. > > -------- > Building RV10. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382878#382878 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Andair fuel pump
From: Jeff Nichols <Nicholscatoauto(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 12, 2012
Is anyone flying with the andair px 375 fuel pump? I just want to make sure it will provide enough fuel flow to a 235 hp IO540. I see it is rated 16 gph @ 29 psi. Thanks, Jeff Nichols ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Andair fuel pump
Date: Sep 12, 2012
I have the px375 pump. All is well, RV-10, IO-540-e4b5 260 hp. Bob Newman, N541RV -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Nichols Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 8:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Andair fuel pump Is anyone flying with the andair px 375 fuel pump? I just want to make sure it will provide enough fuel flow to a 235 hp IO540. I see it is rated 16 gph @ 29 psi. Thanks, Jeff Nichols ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Andair fuel pump
Date: Sep 12, 2012
I am running the PX375 pump in my RV-10 with the 260 hp IO-540. No issues. Bob Newman N541RV -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Nichols Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 8:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Andair fuel pump Is anyone flying with the andair px 375 fuel pump? I just want to make sure it will provide enough fuel flow to a 235 hp IO540. I see it is rated 16 gph @ 29 psi. Thanks, Jeff Nichols ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First Flight
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Sep 13, 2012
Congrats Bart! Nice looking 10! My first flight was 5/29 and I now have about 100 hours on it. No time to stop and get mine painted. Maybe this winter. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383001#383001 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: The "better" RV grin
Date: Sep 15, 2012
This is the RV grin that really counts. A couple of weeks ago I finished the 40 hour test period and my wife got her first ride. She really liked the change from looking at the back of my head in the RV-8A - saying she now gets to sit in the grown up section. Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: The "better" RV grin
Date: Sep 15, 2012
Now that is a beautiful grin! On Sep 15, 2012, at 5:49 AM, "Carl Froehlich" w rote: > This is the RV grin that really counts. > > A couple of weeks ago I finished the 40 hour test period and my wife got h er first ride. She really liked the change from looking at the back of my h ead in the RV-8A =93 saying she now gets to sit in the grown up sectio n. > > Carl > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: The "better" RV grin
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Sep 15, 2012
The best part is sharing the fun! -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383180#383180 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: The "better" RV grin
Let the good times roll! Bill On 9/15/2012 8:49 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > > This is the RV grin that really counts. > > A couple of weeks ago I finished the 40 hour test period and my wife > got her first ride. She really liked the change from looking at the > back of my head in the RV-8A -- saying she now gets to sit in the > grown up section. > > Carl > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -Mike Kraus KitFox SS7 building RV-10 Built and Flying RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
I have the same in my c310 I'll look it up tomorrow and check what I can. Patrick Thyssen N15pt Down waiting on new engine Sent from my iPad On Sep 16, 2012, at 12:24 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. > > What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > -Mike Kraus > KitFox SS7 building > RV-10 Built and Flying > RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( > > Sent from my iPad > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Garmin 696 XM music question
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They are battery operated. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question --> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -Mike Kraus KitFox SS7 building RV-10 Built and Flying RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2012
From: Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Vinyl
I bought a relatively inexpensive vinyl cutting machine from UScutter.com, and used it to cut the vinyl for N number, stripes, door label, fuel label, "Experimental" label, etc. on my RV-10. I used 12-year vinyl (Oracal). I designed/laid out the graphics with the free Inkscape program. Here's a photo somebody took of me landing at Airventure '11: http://www.airport-data.com/aircraft/photo/649281.html Results were generally good. Observations/lessons learned: - Using vinyl allowed me to paint the airplane all white (in the basement, before flight) without having to mask for additional colors, designs, letters, etc. - Vinyl works fine on surfaces parallel to air flow - When dings happen, vinyl is pretty easy to patch - Prop-driven rain is hard on the portion of the vinyl that faces the airflow (top of vertical stabilizer). Especially hard hit is the seam where the fiberglass VS tip intersects the aluminum top of VS. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't wrap vinyl around the front of the VS - It's more fun to fly than to apply graphics -- I never did finish the vinyl graphics on the copilot side, nor a planned swoosh on the pilot side. Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs Bob Kaufmann said the following on 9/11/2012 3:25 PM: > > Has anyone used any vinyl artwork and how well does it work? > > Bob K > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:10 AM, "duawil" wrote: > >> >> Thanks everyone for all the suggestions/info. >> >> I am going ahead with the install of what I got from Flyboyaccessories.com after discussing it with Abby. >> >> -------- >> Building RV10. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382878#382878 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: Richard McBride <rick.mcbride(at)me.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
I can't speak for the Apollo audio panel but my Garmin audio panel required a minor modification to increase the XM volume out of my 396 and 496 units. My local avionics shop did the mod for a minimal cost. Rick McBride RV-6 finished '92 sold '97 RV-8 finished '04 630 hours and climbing RV-10 started 9/12 On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Rene wrote: > > Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They > are battery operated. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus > Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question > > --> > > I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud > enough to hear consistentl. I have it going into the music input of an > Apollo SL-15 audio panel. > > What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any > ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something > somewhere and it would increase the output?? > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > -Mike Kraus > KitFox SS7 building > RV-10 Built and Flying > RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
That's what I'm looking for... What was the mod??? Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:35 PM, Richard McBride wrote: > > I can't speak for the Apollo audio panel but my Garmin audio panel required a minor modification to increase the XM volume out of my 396 and 496 units. My local avionics shop did the mod for a minimal cost. > > Rick McBride > RV-6 finished '92 sold '97 > RV-8 finished '04 630 hours and climbing > RV-10 started 9/12 > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Rene wrote: > >> >> Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They >> are battery operated. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus >> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question >> >> --> >> >> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud >> enough to hear consistentl. I have it going into the music input of an >> Apollo SL-15 audio panel. >> >> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any >> ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something >> somewhere and it would increase the output?? >> >> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. >> >> -Mike Kraus >> KitFox SS7 building >> RV-10 Built and Flying >> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Kaufmann <bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Vinyl
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Thanks questions answered. Bob Sent from my iPad On Sep 16, 2012, at 12:26 PM, Tim Lewis wrote: > > I bought a relatively inexpensive vinyl cutting machine from UScutter.com, and used it to cut the vinyl for N number, stripes, door label, fuel label, "Experimental" label, etc. on my RV-10. I used 12-year vinyl (Oracal). I designed/laid out the graphics with the free Inkscape program. > > Here's a photo somebody took of me landing at Airventure '11: http://www.airport-data.com/aircraft/photo/649281.html > > Results were generally good. Observations/lessons learned: > - Using vinyl allowed me to paint the airplane all white (in the basement, before flight) without having to mask for additional colors, designs, letters, etc. > - Vinyl works fine on surfaces parallel to air flow > - When dings happen, vinyl is pretty easy to patch > - Prop-driven rain is hard on the portion of the vinyl that faces the airflow (top of vertical stabilizer). Especially hard hit is the seam where the fiberglass VS tip intersects the aluminum top of VS. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't wrap vinyl around the front of the VS > - It's more fun to fly than to apply graphics -- I never did finish the vinyl graphics on the copilot side, nor a planned swoosh on the pilot side. > > Tim > > -- > Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) > RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold > RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs > > Bob Kaufmann said the following on 9/11/2012 3:25 PM: >> >> Has anyone used any vinyl artwork and how well does it work? >> >> Bob K >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> >> On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:10 AM, "duawil" wrote: >> >>> >>> Thanks everyone for all the suggestions/info. >>> >>> I am going ahead with the install of what I got from Flyboyaccessories.com after discussing it with Abby. >>> >>> -------- >>> Building RV10. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382878#382878 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: Richard McBride <rick.mcbride(at)me.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Let me do some research. The mod instructions came with the unit if I recall. I need to look through my files. Rick On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:54 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > That's what I'm looking for... What was the mod??? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:35 PM, Richard McBride wrote: > >> >> I can't speak for the Apollo audio panel but my Garmin audio panel required a minor modification to increase the XM volume out of my 396 and 496 units. My local avionics shop did the mod for a minimal cost. >> >> Rick McBride >> RV-6 finished '92 sold '97 >> RV-8 finished '04 630 hours and climbing >> RV-10 started 9/12 >> >> On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Rene wrote: >> >>> >>> Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They >>> are battery operated. >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus >>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question >>> >>> --> >>> >>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud >>> enough to hear consistentl. I have it going into the music input of an >>> Apollo SL-15 audio panel. >>> >>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any >>> ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something >>> somewhere and it would increase the output?? >>> >>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. >>> >>> -Mike Kraus >>> KitFox SS7 building >>> RV-10 Built and Flying >>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2012
From: "egodfrey(at)ameritech.net" <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: RV10 door seals
Has anyone installed the door seals from http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals from rvtraining. Thanks. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: Richard McBride <rick.mcbride(at)me.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
The only details I could find are in the installation manual. For the Garmin 340 panel there were two mods (2 & 5) that both claim to boost the music audio. The manual doesn't provide any details on either mod. As I mentioned, my local shop did the work. I have no idea if these type of mods apply to your Apollo. A call to your local avionics shop might help. Sorry I can't be of any more help. Rick On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:54 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > That's what I'm looking for... What was the mod??? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:35 PM, Richard McBride wrote: > >> >> I can't speak for the Apollo audio panel but my Garmin audio panel required a minor modification to increase the XM volume out of my 396 and 496 units. My local avionics shop did the mod for a minimal cost. >> >> Rick McBride >> RV-6 finished '92 sold '97 >> RV-8 finished '04 630 hours and climbing >> RV-10 started 9/12 >> >> On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Rene wrote: >> >>> >>> Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They >>> are battery operated. >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus >>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question >>> >>> --> >>> >>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud >>> enough to hear consistentl. I have it going into the music input of an >>> Apollo SL-15 audio panel. >>> >>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any >>> ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something >>> somewhere and it would increase the output?? >>> >>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. >>> >>> -Mike Kraus >>> KitFox SS7 building >>> RV-10 Built and Flying >>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV10 door seals
Date: Sep 16, 2012
I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door. The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works well. Part number: 93085K11 http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not enough to deform the door. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of egodfrey(at)ameritech.net Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals --> Has anyone installed the door seals from http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals from rvtraining. Thanks. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
Mike, Here's a write-up I did a few years ago on the Aeroelectric list. This pertains to the 496 but maybe it's similar. Hope it helps. Message: #38783 From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> Subject: 496 Audio Date: Nov 01, 2007 Marty and all, We learned a bunch today about audio out from the Garmin 496 that could be helpful. I had a harness built by Stark to allow me to put audio from the power/data chord from a 2/3/496 into unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed like a simple thing, but we never got any audio from the power/data chord. Audio jack, yes, data chord, no. Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to drive an 8 ohm speaker. I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V adapter/speaker and reading the back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W. The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm input. Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only audio coming out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio jack(3/496s have a 1/8" audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all the warnings, as well as "Voice +" and "Voice -" wires in the power/data cable). Garmin said not even to bother trying to get audio from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It did not exist. Well, it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of the Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect. With a jack inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is nice, because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the audio jack into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain warnings will get muted by intercom activity or incoming transmissions. I want to know about those pesky mountains, even if it interupts music playing in the background... Now my problem is to figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the power/data chord to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8 ohm to 1000 ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if that will work? How do I wire it? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > > I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. > > What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > -Mike Kraus > KitFox SS7 building > RV-10 Built and Flying > RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( > > Sent from my iPad > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Carl, My door only leaks at the hinge. Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge? Alan Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote: > I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door. > The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I filled in > the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) so that the seal > lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the seal goes on a just a > couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite adequate. 44 hours (and countless > door opening and closing) and it works well. > > Part number: 93085K11 > http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s > > $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much and > the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not enough to > deform the door. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > egodfrey(at)ameritech.net > Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM > To: RV-10 List > Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals > > --> > > Has anyone installed the door seals from > http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what is > your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which seals to > go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't impressed with > the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also, although the use of > the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have some reservations about > sanding away so much of the door opening. > Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals from > rvtraining. Thanks. > > Ed Godfrey > 40717 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Dave, did you ever get it to work? On Sep 16, 2012, at 1:06 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > Mike, > > Here's a write-up I did a few years ago on the Aeroelectric list. > This pertains to the 496 but maybe it's similar. Hope it helps. > > Message: #38783 > From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> > Subject: 496 Audio > Date: Nov 01, 2007 > > Marty and all, We learned a bunch today about audio out from the > Garmin 496 that could be helpful. I had a harness built by Stark to > allow me to put audio from the power/data chord from a 2/3/496 into > unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed like a simple thing, > but we never got any audio from the power/data chord. Audio jack, yes, > data chord, no. Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to > drive an 8 ohm speaker. I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V > adapter/speaker and reading the back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made > in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W. The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm > input. Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only > audio coming out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio > jack(3/496s have a 1/8" audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all > the warnings, as well as "Voice +" and "Voice -" wires in the > power/data cable). Garmin said not even to bother trying to get audio > from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It did not exist. Well, > it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter > plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The > speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of > the Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect. With a jack > inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the > power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is > nice, because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the > audio jack into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain > warnings will get muted by intercom activity or incoming > transmissions. I want to know about those pesky mountains, even if it > interupts music playing in the background... Now my problem is to > figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the power/data chord > to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8 ohm to 1000 > ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if that will > work? How do I wire it? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > > Dave Saylor > 831-750-0284 CL > > > On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Michael Kraus > wrote: >> >> >> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. >> >> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? >> >> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. >> >> -Mike Kraus >> KitFox SS7 building >> RV-10 Built and Flying >> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Just cut out some .032" or thicker pieces that fit the hinge openings perfectly. Proseal in for easy removal later. Paint. You can do that with McMaster Carr seals like I did or those type in the pic. Mine leak zero. -------- Wayne Gillispie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383261#383261 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV10 door seals
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place. The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the side that faces out. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals Carl, My door only leaks at the hinge. Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge? Alan Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote: > I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door. > The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I > filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) > so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the > seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite > adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works well. > > Part number: 93085K11 > http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s > > $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much > and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not > enough to deform the door. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > egodfrey(at)ameritech.net > Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM > To: RV-10 List > Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals > > --> > > Has anyone installed the door seals from > http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, > what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to > which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I > wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. > Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I > have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. > Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals > from rvtraining. Thanks. > > Ed Godfrey > 40717 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Here is mine with the McmasterCarr seal 1120A311 No leaks at all. I used nutplates for the hinges even though you could still use nuts. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 5:11 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 door seals > > > Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor > knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with > the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place. > > The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes > pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on > the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint > it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is > the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the > side that faces out. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD > Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals > > > Carl, > My door only leaks at the hinge. > Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge? > Alan > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" > wrote: > >> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the >> door. >> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I >> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) >> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the >> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite >> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works > well. >> >> Part number: 93085K11 >> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s >> >> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much >> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not >> enough to deform the door. >> >> Carl >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> egodfrey(at)ameritech.net >> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM >> To: RV-10 List >> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals >> >> --> >> >> Has anyone installed the door seals from >> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, >> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to >> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I >> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. >> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I >> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. >> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals >> from rvtraining. Thanks. >> >> Ed Godfrey >> 40717 >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Carl, Thanks. My plane is 3 years old and i dont't know what kind of seal it has(it is not on the door) cold air comesvin at the hinge site otherwise it is a nice fit. Not sure whether i should replace the whole seal or just do something at the hinge. Alan Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:11 PM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote: > > Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor > knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with > the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place. > > The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes > pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on > the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint > it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is > the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the > side that faces out. > > Carl > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD > Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals > > > Carl, > My door only leaks at the hinge. > Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge? > Alan > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" > wrote: > >> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door. >> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I >> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) >> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the >> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite >> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works > well. >> >> Part number: 93085K11 >> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s >> >> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much >> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not >> enough to deform the door. >> >> Carl >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> egodfrey(at)ameritech.net >> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM >> To: RV-10 List >> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals >> >> --> >> >> Has anyone installed the door seals from >> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, >> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to >> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I >> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. >> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I >> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. >> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals >> from rvtraining. Thanks. >> >> Ed Godfrey >> 40717 >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
Dang, I didn't mean to leave you in suspense... I shoulda read it again! We did get it working, not with a transformer but by using just the voice + and letting it ground via the "regular" ground, not "voice -". The rational was that the voice +/- was meant to drive a speaker so "voice -" is actually a signal opposite the hi side, not just zero. I'm in a little over my head but I'm sure some audio folks can describe it better. Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 1:35 PM, John Jessen wrote: > > Dave, did you ever get it to work? > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 1:06 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > >> >> Mike, >> >> Here's a write-up I did a few years ago on the Aeroelectric list. >> This pertains to the 496 but maybe it's similar. Hope it helps. >> >> Message: #38783 >> From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> >> Subject: 496 Audio >> Date: Nov 01, 2007 >> >> Marty and all, We learned a bunch today about audio out from the >> Garmin 496 that could be helpful. I had a harness built by Stark to >> allow me to put audio from the power/data chord from a 2/3/496 into >> unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed like a simple thing, >> but we never got any audio from the power/data chord. Audio jack, yes, >> data chord, no. Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to >> drive an 8 ohm speaker. I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V >> adapter/speaker and reading the back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made >> in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W. The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm >> input. Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only >> audio coming out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio >> jack(3/496s have a 1/8" audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all >> the warnings, as well as "Voice +" and "Voice -" wires in the >> power/data cable). Garmin said not even to bother trying to get audio >> from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It did not exist. Well, >> it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter >> plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The >> speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of >> the Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect. With a jack >> inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the >> power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is >> nice, because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the >> audio jack into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain >> warnings will get muted by intercom activity or incoming >> transmissions. I want to know about those pesky mountains, even if it >> interupts music playing in the background... Now my problem is to >> figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the power/data chord >> to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8 ohm to 1000 >> ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if that will >> work? How do I wire it? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com >> >> >> Dave Saylor >> 831-750-0284 CL >> >> >> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Michael Kraus >> wrote: >>> >>> >>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. >>> >>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? >>> >>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. >>> >>> -Mike Kraus >>> KitFox SS7 building >>> RV-10 Built and Flying >>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Brake Pads?
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Update on brake pads. I just ordered four more to have on hand from Aircraft Spruce. They came a week later. They are Cleveland liners and they come with rivets. The part number is 66-112. You have to actually search for this number instead of the description. Also, you have to go to the Cleveland part area and choose it from the drop down menu. Expensive though at 21.75 a pad with rivets. Here is a link http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php -------- 40936 RV-10 SB N801VR Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383272#383272 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
The radio shack transformer should work okay. Cut the center tap off. Of course you'll need two for stereo. Early Garmin 340 panels didn't have sufficient gain for the usual audio sources, whether ipad, CD, xm, etc. Garmin had a fix which required you to go to a dealer, where they soldered in one or two new resistors to increase the gain. Later 340 panels brought the fix out to a pin in the back, ground it to increase the gain. The reason it's an option is that along with the higher gain comes more noise. It is really poor engineering when you can hear electronic noise in an airplane! I cannot comment on later Garmin panels, nor the Apollo/UPS. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383273#383273 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Most people fiberglass over the opening to make it flush with the door. I just used a piece of scrap fiberglass, cut it to size, epoxied it in place, then a little micro to make things smooth. This gives a nice surface for any type of seal you choose. Bob Sent from my iPad On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:32 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > Carl, > Thanks. > My plane is 3 years old and i dont't know what kind of seal it has(it is not on the door) cold air comesvin at the hinge site otherwise it is a nice fit. > Not sure whether i should replace the whole seal or just do something at the hinge. > Alan > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:11 PM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote: > >> >> Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor >> knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with >> the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place. >> >> The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes >> pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on >> the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint >> it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is >> the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the >> side that faces out. >> >> Carl >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD >> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals >> >> >> Carl, >> My door only leaks at the hinge. >> Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge? >> Alan >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" >> wrote: >> >>> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door. >>> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I >>> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) >>> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the >>> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite >>> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works >> well. >>> >>> Part number: 93085K11 >>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s >>> >>> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much >>> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not >>> enough to deform the door. >>> >>> Carl >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of >>> egodfrey(at)ameritech.net >>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM >>> To: RV-10 List >>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals >>> >>> --> >>> >>> Has anyone installed the door seals from >>> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, >>> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to >>> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I >>> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. >>> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I >>> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. >>> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals >>> from rvtraining. Thanks. >>> >>> Ed Godfrey >>> 40717 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
Date: Sep 17, 2012
Here is our fiberglass bridge. http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Images/Doors/Door_(14).jpg Robin Sent from the new iPad On Sep 16, 2012, at 5:30 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote: > > Most people fiberglass over the opening to make it flush with the door. I just used a piece of scrap fiberglass, cut it to size, epoxied it in place, then a little micro to make things smooth. This gives a nice surface for any type of seal you choose. > > Bob > > > Sent from my iPad > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:32 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > >> >> Carl, >> Thanks. >> My plane is 3 years old and i dont't know what kind of seal it has(it is not on the door) cold air comesvin at the hinge site otherwise it is a nice fit. >> Not sure whether i should replace the whole seal or just do something at the hinge. >> Alan >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:11 PM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote: >> >>> >>> Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor >>> knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with >>> the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place. >>> >>> The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes >>> pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on >>> the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint >>> it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is >>> the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the >>> side that faces out. >>> >>> Carl >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD >>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals >>> >>> >>> Carl, >>> My door only leaks at the hinge. >>> Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge? >>> Alan >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" >>> wrote: >>> >>>> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door. >>>> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I >>>> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) >>>> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the >>>> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite >>>> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works >>> well. >>>> >>>> Part number: 93085K11 >>>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s >>>> >>>> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much >>>> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not >>>> enough to deform the door. >>>> >>>> Carl >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of >>>> egodfrey(at)ameritech.net >>>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM >>>> To: RV-10 List >>>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals >>>> >>>> --> >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed the door seals from >>>> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, >>>> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to >>>> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I >>>> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. >>>> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I >>>> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. >>>> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals >>>> from rvtraining. Thanks. >>>> >>>> Ed Godfrey >>>> 40717 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
Dave, I get the voice to work fine, it's just the music output that cuts in and out due to not enough output. I have a small iPod amplifier that I temporarily hooked up and it does solve the problem, but the design of it is not something I'd like to try and incorporate. Did your solution fix voice and music? Or just voice transmissions? Thank you -Mike Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > Dang, I didn't mean to leave you in suspense... I shoulda read it again! > > We did get it working, not with a transformer but by using just the > voice + and letting it ground via the "regular" ground, not "voice -". > The rational was that the voice +/- was meant to drive a speaker so > "voice -" is actually a signal opposite the hi side, not just zero. > I'm in a little over my head but I'm sure some audio folks can > describe it better. > > Dave Saylor > 831-750-0284 CL > > > On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 1:35 PM, John Jessen wrote: >> >> Dave, did you ever get it to work? >> >> On Sep 16, 2012, at 1:06 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: >> >>> >>> Mike, >>> >>> Here's a write-up I did a few years ago on the Aeroelectric list. >>> This pertains to the 496 but maybe it's similar. Hope it helps. >>> >>> Message: #38783 >>> From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> >>> Subject: 496 Audio >>> Date: Nov 01, 2007 >>> >>> Marty and all, We learned a bunch today about audio out from the >>> Garmin 496 that could be helpful. I had a harness built by Stark to >>> allow me to put audio from the power/data chord from a 2/3/496 into >>> unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed like a simple thing, >>> but we never got any audio from the power/data chord. Audio jack, yes, >>> data chord, no. Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to >>> drive an 8 ohm speaker. I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V >>> adapter/speaker and reading the back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made >>> in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W. The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm >>> input. Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only >>> audio coming out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio >>> jack(3/496s have a 1/8" audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all >>> the warnings, as well as "Voice +" and "Voice -" wires in the >>> power/data cable). Garmin said not even to bother trying to get audio >>> from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It did not exist. Well, >>> it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter >>> plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The >>> speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of >>> the Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect. With a jack >>> inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the >>> power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is >>> nice, because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the >>> audio jack into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain >>> warnings will get muted by intercom activity or incoming >>> transmissions. I want to know about those pesky mountains, even if it >>> interupts music playing in the background... Now my problem is to >>> figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the power/data chord >>> to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8 ohm to 1000 >>> ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if that will >>> work? How do I wire it? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way >>> Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com >>> >>> >>> Dave Saylor >>> 831-750-0284 CL >>> >>> >>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Michael Kraus >>> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. >>>> >>>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? >>>> >>>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. >>>> >>>> -Mike Kraus >>>> KitFox SS7 building >>>> RV-10 Built and Flying >>>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPad >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RV10 door seals
Date: Sep 16, 2012
I used them. Work great..... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of egodfrey(at)ameritech.net Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 1:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals --> Has anyone installed the door seals from http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals from rvtraining. Thanks. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
That's a real good pic to reference for handling the hinge in the door. I bridged mine too but sealed it all up so there is no access to the hinge nuts. In other words, the hinge half is in place permanently. I carved up some blue foam then laid some thin glass cloth over it. (Note that 2 different kinds of McMaster-Carr seals are being referenced in this thread. They are completely different from one another.) Bill "getting ready to touch up some paint around the windshield" Watson On 9/16/2012 8:56 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > > Here is our fiberglass bridge. > > http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Images/Doors/Door_(14).jpg > > Robin > > Sent from the new iPad > > On Sep 16, 2012, at 5:30 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote: > >> >> Most people fiberglass over the opening to make it flush with the door. I just used a piece of scrap fiberglass, cut it to size, epoxied it in place, then a little micro to make things smooth. This gives a nice surface for any type of seal you choose. >> >> Bob >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Date: Sep 17, 2012
I'm very happy with the rvtraining seals. Much better than my attempt at using van's seals. On Sep 16, 2012, at 12:11 PM, egodfrey(at)ameritech.net wrote: > > Has anyone installed the door seals from http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening. Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals from rvtraining. Thanks. > > Ed Godfrey > 40717 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 door seals
From: "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sep 18, 2012
All I did to create a couple of pockets was to epoxy in a couple of balsa wood pieces cut roughly to shape. Then fill with micro and sand. Turned out pretty nice. Cheers, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383422#383422 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0881_476.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0817_730.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2012
Subject: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
I'm getting close to finishing up the wing leading edges, and I need to drill out the holes for the wing tie-downs. I have two options... drill it out to 3/8 (plus some breathing room) for just the tie-down bolt, or 11/16 so I can pass a jam nut tight to the tapped aluminum. Opinions? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2012
From: speckter(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?
My plane is hangered most of the time so I take the tiedown rings out most of the time and thus no jam nuts Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Kranz" <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 6:01:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts? I'm getting close to finishing up the wing leading edges, and I need to drill out the holes for the wing tie-downs. I have two options... drill it out to 3/8 (plus some breathing room) for just the tie-down bolt, or 11/16 so I can pass a jam nut tight to the tapped aluminum. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 18, 2012
I too carry mine with me, install as needed. I do this under the delusion that it gains me huge amounts of extra speed (!). OTOH the tail ring is in all the time. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383472#383472 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2012
Subject: Re: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Ed, I intend to "lock tite" mine into the tapped AL threads. I also had mine chromed so they are staying in the wing cause they look so good! ;-) Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont On Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 7:01 PM, Ed Kranz wrote: > I'm getting close to finishing up the wing leading edges, and I need to > drill out the holes for the wing tie-downs. I have two options... drill it > out to 3/8 (plus some breathing room) for just the tie-down bolt, or 11/16 > so I can pass a jam nut tight to the tapped aluminum. > > Opinions? > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2012
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?
I just gobbbbed on enough teflon tape so they tighten real good.=0ADon=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.c om>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:18 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?=0A =0A =0AEd, -I intend to "lock tite" mine into the tapped AL threads.- I als o had mine chromed so they are staying in the wing cause they look so good! -- -;-)=0A=0ARick=0A#40956=0ASouthampton, Ont=0A=0A=0AOn Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 7:01 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:=0A=0AI'm getting clo se to finishing up the wing leading edges, and I need to drill out the hole s for the wing tie-downs. I have two options... drill it out to 3/8 (plus s ome breathing room) for just the tie-down bolt, or 11/16 so I can pass a ja m nut tight to the tapped aluminum.=0A>=0A>=0A>Opinions? =0A>get="_blank" >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com ====== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?
I painted them white to match the wing. The paint gummed up the threads just enough to eliminate the need for jam nuts, just as I planned. Bill > I just gobbbbed on enough teflon tape so they tighten real good. > Don > > > Ed, I intend to "lock tite" mine into the tapped AL threads. I also > had mine chromed so they are staying in the wing cause they look so > good! ;-) > Rick > #40956 > Release Date: 09/18/12 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Static ports
Date: Sep 19, 2012
I have older Safeair statics ports which protrude about a 1/32 inch out of the skin on my plane. (Newer ports form SafeAir are the same they simply beveled the edge of the port.) I have a G900X system with Gretz pitot. I have done GPS speed tests and find TAS is indicating 4 knots lower than actual. I have read Tim's post on changing ports to improve the error. Has anyone with similar system as mine found a similar error and been able to reduce or eliminate it? Dave Leikam ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2012
Subject: Re: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Thanks everyone! Sounds like I won't need the jam nuts even if I do leave them in... which I probably won't. On the other hand, I am going to permanently attach my tail tail down. Wouldn't want the rudder fairing taking damage if a tail strike were to happen... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Brake Pads?
From: "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca>
Date: Sep 19, 2012
Just received two kits from Van's today, $88 for a set of four and rivets. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383560#383560 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Jam nuts for wing tie-down eyebolts?
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 20, 2012
Mine all had a slight gap between skin and tiedown. You can fill that gap with proseal, use an o-ring and locktite. I just leave my SS eyebolts in all the time. If the gap is not filled you will be puckering the skin upon tightening. -------- Wayne Gillispie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383585#383585 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Static ports
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 20, 2012
I've seen pics from someone in Australia that fixed theirs with a "fence". Pop rivets are 1 kt off on mine. -------- Wayne Gillispie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383586#383586 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Quickbuild fuselage
Date: Sep 21, 2012
Guys Now that I finished the -10 tail cone assembly, I have a couple of questions for those of you who used a QB fuselage: - Did you totally overlook chapters 25 to 31 of the building manual? Or is it necessary to check if our Filipino colleagues missed anything from those chapters? - On my QB fuselage, the foot steps are not installed and there is a steel tube in the steps holes, which goes from side to side through the entire fuselage width, with holes on the tips which served to anchor the "canoe" to the wooden transportation box. Being the baggage floor already riveted, how did you dismount that provisional tube, and how did you mount the 2 steps? (There are bolts and nuts to be unscrewed and screwed again under the baggage floor.) I have one more question about the fuselage interior, which is common for those who used the QB fuse and for those who didn't: - Is it necessary to paint the aluminium sheets of the cockpit interior, or the upholstery will cover it entirely? Waiting for your answers Best regards Carlos ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild fuselage
Unfortunately you need to check each and every step. You will find some things not done. In some cases the plans suggest differences with quick build, but it is easier to just check everything. Yes the pipe has to come out. The floor should only have a limited number of pop rivets, that you get to drill out. You need the baggage floor out just to run wires, conduit, etc. You also will want to make access panels for the step bolts. On 9/21/2012 10:44 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote: > > Guys > > Now that I finished the -10 tail cone assembly, I have a couple of > questions for those of you who used a QB fuselage: > > -Did you totally overlook chapters 25 to 31 of the building manual? Or > is it necessary to check if our Filipino colleagues missed anything > from those chapters? > > -On my QB fuselage, the foot steps are not installed and there is a > steel tube in the steps holes, which goes from side to side through > the entire fuselage width, with holes on the tips which served to > anchor the canoe to the wooden transportation box. Being the baggage > floor already riveted, how did you dismount that provisional tube, and > how did you mount the 2 steps? (There are bolts and nuts to be > unscrewed and screwed again under the baggage floor) > > I have one more question about the fuselage interior, which is common > for those who used the QB fuse and for those who didnt: > > -Is it necessary to paint the aluminium sheets of the cockpit > interior, or the upholstery will cover it entirely? > > Waiting for your answers > > Best regards > > Carlos > > * > > > * ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2012
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild fuselage
Carlos, in theorie in all sections you have a note what steps the QB has to do compared to all which have to be done on the "self build" but in real you need to check each and every step as some were omitted or even forgotten (check the crossbar behind the rear seats how many rivets are missing). The baggage floor was only riveted with a few pull rivets so you need to drill them out to work below. Gordon had a list which I could follow pretty much as our QB were about done at the same time. Good luck see you in Old Warden in a month time? Cheers Werner On 21.09.2012 19:44, Carlos Trigo wrote: > Guys > > Now that I finished the -10 tail cone assembly, I have a couple of > questions for those of you who used a QB fuselage: > > -Did you totally overlook chapters 25 to 31 of the building manual? Or > is it necessary to check if our Filipino colleagues missed anything from > those chapters? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quickbuild fuselage
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 21, 2012
Previous replies have answered your questions, except the easy one: Interior is entirely up to you. Some fly with bare walls, aluminum visible and unpainted. Some paint it. Some cover it with fabric or carpet. Some prime, install sound insulation, cover with upholstery. Your choice. As the others said, go thru the manual step by step. You'll find some things not done. Also inspect it carefully. I found a stray bolt that I thought might require removing the landing gear mount to get it out, but fortunately I was able to get it with a magnet! -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383740#383740 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Empennage attachment
Date: Sep 22, 2012
Fellow builders About the Empennage attachment, when did you make it? Was it right after completing the tail cone, as the manual indicates? Or only after attaching the tail cone to the rest of the fuselage? Best Carlos ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Empennage attachment
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2012
I attached mine late in the build due to limited space in my garage. Tail c one was mounted as soon as the fuselage was ready to accept. The tail feath ers weren't mounted until I moved the project to the hangar. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 22, 2012, at 7:15 AM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: Fellow builders About the Empennage attachment, when did you make it? Was it right after completing the tail cone, as the manual indicates? Or only after attaching the tail cone to the rest of the fuselage? Best Carlos ========================== ======== ========================== ======== ========================== ======== ========================== ======== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Empennage attachment
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2012
It all depends on space and timing. It can be done right away or after the f wf. It really doesn't matter. If you do it right away for drilling and fairi ngs, then you can disassemble and store the parts for paint and final instal lation at the airport. Control rigging obviously can't be done until that ti me, but you can rig the controls on final assembly as well. I think you woul d be happy to have the fairings done to have the feeling of completion while working on the other parts. Sent from my iPad On Sep 22, 2012, at 7:15 AM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: > Fellow builders > > About the Empennage attachment, when did you make it? > Was it right after completing the tail cone, as the manual indicates? > Or only after attaching the tail cone to the rest of the fuselage? > > Best > Carlos > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Tim's Alaska Trip
Date: Sep 22, 2012
Tim, I just finished reading the write up on your Alaska trip. What a wonderful adventure and the photographs are amazing. I never knew those glaciers were so dramatic looking and congratulations on completing all 50 states. The 50 state video at the end is fantastic and I appreciate seeing the girls grow up in the back seat of your 10. I have a feeling that one day they will be in the front left seat just like Andrea and I look forward to seeing your Alaska specific videos once completed. Thanks for sharing, Robin Sent from the new iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Quickbuild fuselage
> I have one more question about the fuselage interior, which is common > for those who used the QB fuse and for those who didn't: > > -Is it necessary to paint the aluminium sheets of the cockpit > interior, or the upholstery will cover it entirely? > > Depends on your interior. I went with Abbey's Flight Line interior. As part of their full interior with carpeting and side panels, they provide a drawing of what painting is required to fill-in around what they provide. The painting was minimal and was done after construction was completed. I've heard that they may no longer do carpet (?). If so, the story may be different. BTW, I love my interior and so does my co-pilot. Clearly a simple painting of the interior panels along with seat covers (Vans style) would produce a very serviceable and light weight interior too. Depends on your desires. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Quickbuild fuselage
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2012
The answer depends on how you want to finish your interior. I installed Aerosport Products interior panels and headliner. I recommend t hem highly. With them there is very little aluminum and fiberglass exposed. There are many that do their own interiors, so then it would depend on what y ou design. My recommendation would be to review vendor and other builder web sites to d etermine what your taste and budget will allow. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 21, 2012, at 1:44 PM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: I have one more question about the fuselage interior, which is common for th ose who used the QB fuse and for those who didn=99t: - Is it necessary to paint the aluminium sheets of the cockpit inte rior, or the upholstery will cover it entirely? Waiting for your answers Best regards ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Lenny on the list?
Date: Sep 23, 2012
Is Lenny from Florida still on the RV-10 list? Contact Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com R ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lenny on the list?
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 23, 2012
Yes I am. Sending you an email. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383822#383822 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airline fees
From: "allen09" <allen09(at)live.com>
Date: Sep 23, 2012
Airlines charges are a fact of life at this point and there's little getting around them, except one is really sticking in some people's craw. Air carriers have favored seating charges, usually for booking aisle or window seats that are turning into sit-with-your-children charges, which parents aren't pleased about. Related article: Airline fees. (http://personalmoneynetwork.com/moneyblog/2012/09/19/sit-with-your-children-fees/) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383869#383869 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mythical, Magical, Travelling Nose Gear Incert Tool
From: "ddddsp" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 24, 2012
Hey Lew, Not sure if you ran the incert kit down yet. Back on the LIST I think. If you need more info from my email this morning let me know. Dean Sombke Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383922#383922 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mythical, Magical, Travelling Nose Gear Incert Tool
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Sep 24, 2012
I have it at the moment, I can send it to Dean. But he'll owe me a cold one at OSH next year. Bob Sent from my iPhone On Sep 24, 2012, at 4:43 PM, "ddddsp" wrote: Hey Lew, Not sure if you ran the incert kit down yet. Back on the LIST I think. If you need more info from my email this morning let me know. Dean Sombke Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383922#383922 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Mythical, Magical, Travelling Nose Gear Incert Tool
Date: Sep 24, 2012
Hey Guys, I've asked Bob to send it to Jim Beyer first, then on to Dean before it comes back to me. Later, - Lew ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: AOA in which wing?
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 25, 2012
I'm just getting ready to drill the holes to install the AFS AOA kit, and I'm wondering... are there any pros or cons to installing it in one wing vs the other? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: AOA in which wing?
Date: Sep 25, 2012
Don't know of any pros or cons, I mounted mine in the left wing using the measured distances as prescribed in the AFS manual, I used Rob's calibration settings from his RV-10 and it works perfectly. Bob Newman N541RV 90 hrs -----Original Message----- From: Ed Kranz Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 7:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: AOA in which wing? I'm just getting ready to drill the holes to install the AFS AOA kit, and I'm wondering... are there any pros or cons to installing it in one wing vs the other? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AOA in which wing?
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com>
Date: Sep 25, 2012
Mine is in the left wing. Works great! Robert 661G KCRP Sent from my iPad On Sep 25, 2012, at 6:25 PM, Ed Kranz wrote: > > I'm just getting ready to drill the holes to install the AFS AOA kit, and I'm wondering... are there any pros or cons to installing it in one wing vs the other? > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AOA in which wing?
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 27, 2012
Conservatives generally put it in the right wing and liberals put it in the left wing. Being closer to the pilot side connections and with the pitot line running out to the left wing, it just seems more logical to put it there as i did, between the stall waring and the wing tip per AFS instructions. -------- See you OSH '12 Q/B - flying 2 yrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384080#384080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2012
Subject: Re: AOA in which wing?
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
You could debate the definition of "it", or you could be a moderate and put ports on both wings. ;-) What does that make those that use the Dynon combined pitot/AOA? On Thu, Sep 27, 2012 at 7:14 AM, AirMike wrote: > > Conservatives generally put *it* in the right wing and liberals put *it* in the left wing. > > Being closer to the pilot side connections and with the pitot line running out to the left wing, it just seems more logical to put it there as i did, between the stall waring and the wing tip per AFS instructions. > > -------- > See you OSH '12 > Q/B - flying 2 yrs. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384080#384080 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2012
From: speckter(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: AOA in which wing?
All this discussion on such a small item reminds me of a saying my friend h as. "Pole vaulting over mouse turds." LOL Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 12:31:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: AOA in which wing? You could debate the definition of "it", or you could be a moderate and put ports on both wings. ;-) What does that make those that use the Dynon combined pitot/AOA? On Thu, Sep 27, 2012 at 7:14 AM, AirMike wrote: > > Conservatives generally put *it* in the right wing and liberals put *it* in the left wing. > > Being closer to the pilot side connections and with the pitot line runnin g out to the left wing, it just seems more logical to put it there as i did , between the stall waring and the wing tip per AFS instructions. > > -------- > See you OSH '12 > Q/B - flying 2 yrs. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384080#384080 > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== MS - =========== e - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin. =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gordon <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch>
Subject: Re: AOA in which wing?
Date: Sep 27, 2012
Conventional wisdom (or urban myth) says that pitot tubes and stall warning v anes are installed in the left wing because that wing goes slower in the lef t turns associated with a "standard" circuit, so it will stall first. Feel free to do the maths on the speed difference between the wings and repo rt back ;-). Cheers, Gordon 41015 Doors fitting (nearly) Sent from my iPad On 27.09.2012, at 20:04, speckter(at)comcast.net wrote: > All this discussion on such a small item reminds me of a saying my friend h as. "Pole vaulting over mouse turds." > > LOL > > > > Gary > > > From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 12:31:55 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: AOA in which wing? > > > You could debate the definition of "it", or you could be a moderate > and put ports on both wings. ;-) > What does that make those that use the Dynon combined pitot/AOA? > > On Thu, Sep 27, 2012 at 7:14 AM, AirMike wrote: > > > > Conservatives generally put *it* in the right wing and liberals put *it* in the left wing. > > > > Being closer to the pilot side connections and with the pitot line runni ng out to the left wing, it just seems more logical to put it there as i did , between the stall waring and the wing tip per AFS instructions. > > > > -------- > > See you OSH '12 > > Q/B - flying 2 yrs. > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384080#384080 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ; -Mat============== > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 28, 2012
Greetings list Now that I'm beginning the fuselage, I need to check if I have everything to be incorporated in it. So, to help me figure that out, will you please list which extras (not included in Van's kit) did you use in your fuselage? Parking brake valve or flap positioning system come to my mind. Best Carlos ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 28, 2012
Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or lay conduit). Put in extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate how many they'll need. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 28, 2012
Thanks Bob I already had thought of that, so I plan to put 1 or 2 big conduits. Do they have to go from the tail cone, behind the baggage bulkhead, all the way through the instrument panel? However, what I meant for Extras to put in the fuselage, I was referring to gizmos not included in the kit, like a parking brake valve or some cockpit lights, or something else. Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner > Sent: sexta-feira, 28 de Setembro de 2012 20:08 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > > Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or lay conduit). Put in > extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate how many they'll > need. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Sep 29, 2012
Carlos, I'd recommend the park brake; an overhead console if you require more airflo w (it gets really hot here in Australia); I fitted access hatches to enable m e to get into the tunnel to service the fuel pump and consider antenna place ment before you close up the floors. Warm regards from Oz Patrick On 29/09/2012, at 8:24 AM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: > Thanks Bob > > I already had thought of that, so I plan to put 1 or 2 big conduits. Do th ey have to go from the tail cone, behind the baggage bulkhead, all the way t hrough the instrument panel? > > However, what I meant for Extras to put in the fuselage, I was referring t o gizmos not included in the kit, like a parking brake valve or some cockpit lights, or something else. > > Carlos > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner > > Sent: sexta-feira, 28 de Setembro de 2012 20:08 > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > > > > > Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or lay cond uit). Put in > > extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate how many t hey'll > > need. > > > > -------- > > Bob Turner > > RV-10 QB > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > > RV10-List Email Forum - > > browse > > Un/Subscription, > > FAQ, > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > > ========== > > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > > Forums! > > > > > > > > ========== > > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > > > > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ========== > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 28, 2012
I ran wires under the baggage floor but not under the passengers feet. I went down the sides from the passenger seats forward. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384173#384173 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 2012
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Carlos, I installed the tunnel access kit from www.airward.com. He also has a few other items worth considering. Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 1:49 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote : > Greetings list**** > > ** ** > > Now that I=92m beginning the fuselage, I need to check if I have everythi ng > to be incorporated in it.**** > > ** ** > > So, to help me figure that out, will you please list which extras (not > included in Van=92s kit) did you use in your fuselage?**** > > Parking brake valve or flap positioning system come to my mind.**** > > ** ** > > Best **** > > Carlos**** > > ** ** > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Sep 28, 2012
Re antennas, it's a good thing to get settled sooner than later. If you pla n on 2 commas, the fuse bottom is the place to put them. One will naturally go under the baggage floor which will become inaccessible soon. You can ge t a second along with a tpxr antenna under the front seats... But that is ea sily accessible whenever. I would recommend against a wing tip comm antenna . FPS, check. Parking break, check I have a lot of electrical and avionics stuff. Two conduits is not quite en ough. I suggest wiring as much as you with the baggage floor open (the Vans electrical plan is a good one to follow for basic electricals). Then leave some open conduit for after the floor is closed. For example, I have 2 bat ts, strobe pwr, dual GRT AHRS, NavWorx ADSB, ELT plus pitch trim and AP. So me other items to consider are rear seat audio jacks, static line, and a cig lighter power jack for all those portables I used 2 Vans hatch kits (same as hatch for stall warning assembly) to provi de access to the step structure (probably overkill). I used extra Vans stro be pwr mounts for my ELT and ADSB units. The Vans AHRS mount kit was used t oo. On an unrelated note re the stall warning system in the wing. I flew the f irst 100 hours with it disconnected. Never missed it. Finally hooked it up and flew another 100 hours. It's very nice to have it just as an extra dat a point for the flare. Bill Watson Sent from my iPad On Sep 28, 2012, at 6:54 PM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: > Thanks Bob > > I already had thought of that, so I plan to put 1 or 2 big conduits. Do th ey have to go from the tail cone, behind the baggage bulkhead, all the way t hrough the instrument panel? > > However, what I meant for Extras to put in the fuselage, I was referring t o gizmos not included in the kit, like a parking brake valve or some cockpit lights, or something else. > > Carlos > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner > > Sent: sexta-feira, 28 de Setembro de 2012 20:08 > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > > > > > Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or lay cond uit). Put in > > extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate how many t hey'll > > need. > > > > -------- > > Bob Turner > > RV-10 QB > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > > RV10-List Email Forum - > > browse > > Un/Subscription, > > FAQ, > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > > ========== > > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > > Forums! > > > > > > > > ========== > > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > > > > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ========== > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 2012
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Just to represent the other side of the parking brake question, I have ~150 hours and have never had a circumstance where I wish I had a parking brake. -Rob On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote: > Carlos, > > I'd recommend the park brake; an overhead console if you require more > airflow (it gets really hot here in Australia); I fitted access hatches to > enable me to get into the tunnel to service the fuel pump and consider > antenna placement before you close up the floors. > > > Warm regards from Oz > > Patrick > > On 29/09/2012, at 8:24 AM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: > > Thanks Bob**** > > ** ** > > I already had thought of that, so I plan to put 1 or 2 big conduits. Do > they have to go from the tail cone, behind the baggage bulkhead, all the > way through the instrument panel?**** > > ** ** > > However, what I meant for Extras to put in the fuselage, I was referring > to gizmos not included in the kit, like a parking brake valve or some > cockpit lights, or something else.**** > > ** ** > > Carlos**** > > ** ** > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > > > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner > > > Sent: sexta-feira, 28 de Setembro de 2012 20:08 > > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > > > > > > > > > Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or lay > conduit). Put in > > > extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate how many > they'll > > > need. > > > > > > -------- > > > Bob Turner > > > RV-10 QB > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > > > RV10-List Email Forum - > > > browse > > > Un/Subscription, > > > FAQ, > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > > > > ========== > > > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > > > Forums! > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > > > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > > > > > > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ========== > > > > > ** ** > > * > > * > > * > > * > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 29, 2012
Thanks Patrick It gets hot here in southern Europe as well, so the overhead console is an option I must consider. Did you use any after market console or did you role your own? Any pictures? The hatches seem also a good idea. Do you have any pictures of those? Warm regards from Portugal Carlos _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis Sent: s=E1bado, 29 de Setembro de 2012 1:30 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage Carlos, I'd recommend the park brake; an overhead console if you require more airflow (it gets really hot here in Australia); I fitted access hatches to enable me to get into the tunnel to service the fuel pump and consider antenna placement before you close up the floors. Warm regards from Oz Patrick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 29, 2012
Yeah, that seems to be the best way to pass wires and other stuff Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner > Sent: s=E1bado, 29 de Setembro de 2012 1:49 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > > I ran wires under the baggage floor but not under the passengers feet. I went down > the sides from the passenger seats forward. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 29, 2012
Thanks Rick I=92ll check those. Carlos _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark Sent: s=E1bado, 29 de Setembro de 2012 2:49 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Extras in Fuselage Carlos, I installed the tunnel access kit from www.airward.com. He also has a few other items worth considering. Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 1:49 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote: Greetings list Now that I=92m beginning the fuselage, I need to check if I have everything to be incorporated in it. So, to help me figure that out, will you please list which extras (not included in Van=92s kit) did you use in your fuselage? Parking brake valve or flap positioning system come to my mind. Best Carlos ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 29, 2012
I had an RV-4 for ~500 hours and a RV-10 for ~100 hours and I've never had a parking brake either. For me it was just added cost, complexity, weight, a nd more potential brake fluid leak paths.... -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone On Sep 28, 2012, at 11:13 PM, Rob Kochman wrote: > Just to represent the other side of the parking brake question, I have ~15 0 hours and have never had a circumstance where I wish I had a parking brake . > > -Rob > > On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote: >> Carlos, >> >> I'd recommend the park brake; an overhead console if you require more air flow (it gets really hot here in Australia); I fitted access hatches to enab le me to get into the tunnel to service the fuel pump and consider antenna p lacement before you close up the floors. >> >> >> Warm regards from Oz >> >> Patrick >> >> On 29/09/2012, at 8:24 AM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: >> >>> Thanks Bob >>> >>> >>> >>> I already had thought of that, so I plan to put 1 or 2 big conduits. Do t hey have to go from the tail cone, behind the baggage bulkhead, all the way t hrough the instrument panel? >>> >>> >>> >>> However, what I meant for Extras to put in the fuselage, I was referring to gizmos not included in the kit, like a parking brake valve or some cockp it lights, or something else. >>> >>> >>> >>> Carlos >>> >>> >>> >>> > -----Original Message----- >>> >>> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- >>> >>> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner >>> >>> > Sent: sexta-feira, 28 de Setembro de 2012 20:08 >>> >>> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> >>> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage >>> >>> > >>> >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or lay co nduit). Put in >>> >>> > extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate how many they'll >>> >>> > need. >>> >>> > >>> >>> > -------- >>> >>> > Bob Turner >>> >>> > RV-10 QB >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Read this topic online here: >>> >>> > >>> >>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > ========== >>> >>> > RV10-List Email Forum - >>> >>> > browse >>> >>> > Un/Subscription, >>> >>> > FAQ, >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> >>> > >>> >>> > ========== >>> >>> > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >>> >>> > Forums! >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > ========== >>> >>> > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - >>> >>> > >>> >>> > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>> >>> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> >>> > ========== >>> >>> > >>> >> >> >> >> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> > > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 Flying since March 2011 > Woodinville, WA > http://kochman.net/N819K > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 29, 2012
Thanks Bill Please find comments and additional questions below _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: s=E1bado, 29 de Setembro de 2012 3:30 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage Re antennas, it's a good thing to get settled sooner than later. If you plan on 2 commas, the fuse bottom is the place to put them. One will naturally go under the baggage floor which will become inaccessible soon. You can get a second along with a tpxr antenna under the front seats... But that is easily accessible whenever. I would recommend against a wing tip comm antenna. Ok, seems logic to install belly antennas before closing down any floor panels. But how did you manage the exterior painting? Tape masking the antennas? And how about the ELT antenna? Did you put it inside or in the upper surface of the tail cone? FPS, check. Parking break, check Which FPS? The electro-mechanic 3-position one or the electronic one (with trim compensation) from =93Aircraft Extras=94? I have a lot of electrical and avionics stuff. Two conduits is not quite enough. I suggest wiring as much as you with the baggage floor open (the Vans electrical plan is a good one to follow for basic electricals). Then leave some open conduit for after the floor is closed. For example, I have 2 batts, strobe pwr, dual GRT AHRS, NavWorx ADSB, ELT plus pitch trim and AP. Some other items to consider are rear seat audio jacks, static line, and a cig lighter power jack for all those portables. Ok, I think I will go with 3 conduits=85 I used 2 Vans hatch kits (same as hatch for stall warning assembly) to provide access to the step structure (probably overkill). Which exactly are these hatch kits? I used extra Vans strobe pwr mounts for my ELT and ADSB units. The Vans AHRS mount kit was used too. Good, I still have the one I bought for my -9A and didn=92t use On an unrelated note re the stall warning system in the wing. I flew the first 100 hours with it disconnected. Never missed it. Finally hooked it up and flew another 100 hours. It's very nice to have it just as an extra data point for the flare. Bill Watson Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 29, 2012
Some thoughts: - I used the Van=92s parking brake and recommend it. I mounted it under the bulkhead between the panel and firewall so that a reach under the panel provides access. I did not use the Van=92s Parking Brake Install Kit as there is no need for a control cable as you move the park lever by hand. This provides a simple but effective arrangement. - I put in 6 wire conduits, three running down each side of the fuselage. I ended up filling 5 of the six. I used the Van=92s 1=94 corrugated conduit. I have both EFIS modules mounted in the tail cone (thus you add pitot, static and AOA tubing runs) and an independent two battery electrical system. - Antennas must be accessible when done. I mounted both communication antennas under the tunnel, one forward of the other but both aft of the fwd bell crank. The transponder is under the passenger seat and I=92ll mount the ADSB antenna under the pilot seat. The nav/ILS antenna is homebrew and mounted in the wingtip. ELT antenna is under the empennage fairing. All antennas perform well. Strongly recommend you defer the fuselage antenna mount site selections until after you first fit up of control surface push tubes and such. This will tell you where you can and cannot mount the antennas. For paint I just put a piece of masking tape on the inside, then did the final antenna mount after paint. Antenna doubler plates of course were riveted before paint. - I did not install the stall warning and glassed over the associated wing slot. Two reasons ' the Dynon SkyView has a very effective AOA system with audio warning, and over 10 years flying the 8A without a stall warning and never finding the need for one as the airplane itself provides a lot of stall warning. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 8:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage Thanks Bill Please find comments and additional questions below _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: s=E1bado, 29 de Setembro de 2012 3:30 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage Re antennas, it's a good thing to get settled sooner than later. If you plan on 2 commas, the fuse bottom is the place to put them. One will naturally go under the baggage floor which will become inaccessible soon. You can get a second along with a tpxr antenna under the front seats... But that is easily accessible whenever. I would recommend against a wing tip comm antenna. Ok, seems logic to install belly antennas before closing down any floor panels. But how did you manage the exterior painting? Tape masking the antennas? And how about the ELT antenna? Did you put it inside or in the upper surface of the tail cone? FPS, check. Parking break, check Which FPS? The electro-mechanic 3-position one or the electronic one (with trim compensation) from =93Aircraft Extras=94? I have a lot of electrical and avionics stuff. Two conduits is not quite enough. I suggest wiring as much as you with the baggage floor open (the Vans electrical plan is a good one to follow for basic electricals). Then leave some open conduit for after the floor is closed. For example, I have 2 batts, strobe pwr, dual GRT AHRS, NavWorx ADSB, ELT plus pitch trim and AP. Some other items to consider are rear seat audio jacks, static line, and a cig lighter power jack for all those portables. Ok, I think I will go with 3 conduits=85 I used 2 Vans hatch kits (same as hatch for stall warning assembly) to provide access to the step structure (probably overkill). Which exactly are these hatch kits? I used extra Vans strobe pwr mounts for my ELT and ADSB units. The Vans AHRS mount kit was used too. Good, I still have the one I bought for my -9A and didn=92t use On an unrelated note re the stall warning system in the wing. I flew the first 100 hours with it disconnected. Never missed it. Finally hooked it up and flew another 100 hours. It's very nice to have it just as an extra data point for the flare. Bill Watson Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Well, you must never park on a slope or find gas pumps on a slope. I've used parking brake on every aircraft I've owned, and wished a non-functioning one was working when had to have lineboy insert chock before I could release brakes to get out. Weight, leaks, you haven't looked at the Matco kit or are joking. Cost, yes, worth it, yes. You can worry a LOT more about the crappy nylon brake lines Vans supplies before being concerned about the parking brake leaking. If you do very much cross country flying, it won't be long before you find ramp areas with a slope. As for overhead console, Geoff sells a very nice, and expensive one made of carbon fiber. There are cheaper alternatives, but probably not a better thought out and better fitting one. On 9/29/2012 5:04 AM, Michael Kraus wrote: > I had an RV-4 for ~500 hours and a RV-10 for ~100 hours and I've never > had a parking brake either. For me it was just added cost, > complexity, weight, and more potential brake fluid leak paths.... > > -Mike Kraus > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 28, 2012, at 11:13 PM, Rob Kochman > wrote: > >> Just to represent the other side of the parking brake question, I >> have ~150 hours and have never had a circumstance where I wish I had >> a parking brake. >> >> -Rob >> >> On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Patrick Pulis >> > wrote: >> >> Carlos, >> >> I'd recommend the park brake; an overhead console if you require >> more airflow (it gets really hot here in Australia); I fitted >> access hatches to enable me to get into the tunnel to service the >> fuel pump and consider antenna placement before you close up the >> floors. >> >> >> Warm regards from Oz >> >> Patrick >> >> On 29/09/2012, at 8:24 AM, "Carlos Trigo" > > wrote: >> >>> Thanks Bob >>> >>> I already had thought of that, so I plan to put 1 or 2 big >>> conduits. Do they have to go from the tail cone, behind the >>> baggage bulkhead, all the way through the instrument panel? >>> >>> However, what I meant for Extras to put in the fuselage, I was >>> referring to gizmos not included in the kit, like a parking >>> brake valve or some cockpit lights, or something else. >>> >>> Carlos >>> >>> > -----Original Message----- >>> >>> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list- >>> >>> > server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf >>> Of Bob Turner >>> >>> > Sent: sexta-feira, 28 de Setembro de 2012 20:08 >>> >>> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> >>> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or >>> lay conduit). Put in >>> >>> > extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate >>> how many they'll >>> >>> > need. >>> >>> > >>> >>> > -------- >>> >>> > Bob Turner >>> >>> > RV-10 QB >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Read this topic online here: >>> >>> > >>> >>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > ========== >>> >>> > RV10-List Email Forum - >>> >>> > browse >>> >>> > Un/Subscription, >>> >>> > FAQ, >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> >>> > >>> >>> > ========== >>> >>> > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >>> >>> > Forums! >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > >>> >>> > ========== >>> >>> > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - >>> >>> > >>> >>> > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>> >>> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> >>> > ========== >>> >>> > >>> >>> * >>> >>> >>> * >> >> * >> >> 3D============================================ >> 3D============================================ >> 3D============================================ >> 3D============================================ >> >> * >> >> >> >> >> -- >> Rob Kochman >> RV-10 Flying since March 2011 >> Woodinville, WA >> http://kochman.net/N819K >> >> * >> >> >> * > * > > > * ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Sep 30, 2012
Carlos, I am installing a fibreglass overhead console which is what I purcha sed some time ago. If I had my time again, I'd purchase the carbon fibre equ ivalent from Geoff Coombs at Aerosport Designs. I'm also installing Geoff's carbon fibre instrument panel, side panels, centre console and throttle qua drant cover. I've also fitted some tie down points in the baggage bay; installed access h atches to gain access to the step bolts (coupled with increasing the bolt si ze from AN-3 to AN-4 and fitting an aluminium block in the step tube, same d iameter as the tube through which he bolt passes o prevent the tube from bei ng crushed when the fixing bolt is tightened). Someone sent you a reply re the access hatches in the tunnel to get access t o the fuel pump and filter. I also installed Teflon and brake fuel lines to replace the aluminium tubing , which I thought would fail when operating from rough airstrips. I've also installed a second battery adjacent to the first at the rear. I'll be installing white/red, touch light LED's in the overhead console, whi ch can be dimmed. These are made by AVEO. Warm regards Patrick On 29/09/2012, at 7:27 PM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: > Thanks Patrick > > It gets hot here in southern Europe as well, so the overhead console is an option I must consider. Did you use any after market console or did you rol e your own? Any pictures? > The hatches seem also a good idea. Do you have any pictures of those? > > Warm regards from Portugal > Carlos > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis > Sent: s=C3=A1bado, 29 de Setembro de 2012 1:30 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > Carlos, > > I'd recommend the park brake; an overhead console if you require more airf low (it gets really hot here in Australia); I fitted access hatches to enabl e me to get into the tunnel to service the fuel pump and consider antenna pl acement before you close up the floors. > > > Warm regards from Oz > > Patrick > > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 29, 2012
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From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 29, 2012
I use the parking brake more than I ever thought I would. Last time was to hold the plane steady while I chocked it in place. Not having the brake would have resulted in a moving plane on the slight incline. I am glad I installed mine. I use it! From: Robin Marks Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 9:10 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage I enjoy having my Parking Brakes on both the 8 & 10. Very simple, light and relatively inexpensive. Worth the minor effort in my opinion. Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 5:05 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage I had an RV-4 for ~500 hours and a RV-10 for ~100 hours and I've never had a parking brake either. For me it was just added cost, complexity, weight, and more potential brake fluid leak paths.... -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone On Sep 28, 2012, at 11:13 PM, Rob Kochman wrote: Just to represent the other side of the parking brake question, I have ~150 hours and have never had a circumstance where I wish I had a parking brake. -Rob On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote: Carlos, I'd recommend the park brake; an overhead console if you require more airflow (it gets really hot here in Australia); I fitted access hatches to enable me to get into the tunnel to service the fuel pump and consider antenna placement before you close up the floors. Warm regards from Oz Patrick On 29/09/2012, at 8:24 AM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: Thanks Bob I already had thought of that, so I plan to put 1 or 2 big conduits. Do they have to go from the tail cone, behind the baggage bulkhead, all the way through the instrument panel? However, what I meant for Extras to put in the fuselage, I was referring to gizmos not included in the kit, like a parking brake valve or some cockpit lights, or something else. Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner > Sent: sexta-feira, 28 de Setembro de 2012 20:08 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > > Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or lay conduit). Put in > extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate how many they'll > need. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 > > > > > > > > ========== > RV10-List Email Forum - > browse > Un/Subscription, > FAQ, > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ========== > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > Forums! > > > > ========== > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=03g(=EF=BD=EF =BD=EF=BDM=EF=BDGq=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Extras in fuselage-parking brake
From: Tom Hanaway <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Sep 29, 2012
Put in the parking brake while building-easy install and no leaks during assembly testing. Once finished plane, had a leak in parking brake. Pulled parking brake (after first checking tightness of all fittings)-PITA getting to firewall. Replaced with new unit-good for 15 hours and then started slow drip from same area of parking brake unit. Pulled it again-left it off. Brakes are now fine with no leaks. Very happy with less aggravation. Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Date: Sep 29, 2012
A couple photos attached on wire conduit and parking brake. Note ' the parking brake is attached to the bulkhead that is not in place in this photo. Carl From: Carl Froehlich [mailto:carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net] Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 9:41 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage Some thoughts: - I used the Van=92s parking brake and recommend it. I mounted it under the bulkhead between the panel and firewall so that a reach under the panel provides access. I did not use the Van=92s Parking Brake Install Kit as there is no need for a control cable as you move the park lever by hand. This provides a simple but effective arrangement. - I put in 6 wire conduits, three running down each side of the fuselage. I ended up filling 5 of the six. I used the Van=92s 1=94 corrugated conduit. I have both EFIS modules mounted in the tail cone (thus you add pitot, static and AOA tubing runs) and an independent two battery electrical system. - Antennas must be accessible when done. I mounted both communication antennas under the tunnel, one forward of the other but both aft of the fwd bell crank. The transponder is under the passenger seat and I=92ll mount the ADSB antenna under the pilot seat. The nav/ILS antenna is homebrew and mounted in the wingtip. ELT antenna is under the empennage fairing. All antennas perform well. Strongly recommend you defer the fuselage antenna mount site selections until after you first fit up of control surface push tubes and such. This will tell you where you can and cannot mount the antennas. For paint I just put a piece of masking tape on the inside, then did the final antenna mount after paint. Antenna doubler plates of course were riveted before paint. - I did not install the stall warning and glassed over the associated wing slot. Two reasons ' the Dynon SkyView has a very effective AOA system with audio warning, and over 10 years flying the 8A without a stall warning and never finding the need for one as the airplane itself provides a lot of stall warning. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 8:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage Thanks Bill Please find comments and additional questions below _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: s=E1bado, 29 de Setembro de 2012 3:30 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage Re antennas, it's a good thing to get settled sooner than later. If you plan on 2 commas, the fuse bottom is the place to put them. One will naturally go under the baggage floor which will become inaccessible soon. You can get a second along with a tpxr antenna under the front seats... But that is easily accessible whenever. I would recommend against a wing tip comm antenna. Ok, seems logic to install belly antennas before closing down any floor panels. But how did you manage the exterior painting? Tape masking the antennas? And how about the ELT antenna? Did you put it inside or in the upper surface of the tail cone? FPS, check. Parking break, check Which FPS? The electro-mechanic 3-position one or the electronic one (with trim compensation) from =93Aircraft Extras=94? I have a lot of electrical and avionics stuff. Two conduits is not quite enough. I suggest wiring as much as you with the baggage floor open (the Vans electrical plan is a good one to follow for basic electricals). Then leave some open conduit for after the floor is closed. For example, I have 2 batts, strobe pwr, dual GRT AHRS, NavWorx ADSB, ELT plus pitch trim and AP. Some other items to consider are rear seat audio jacks, static line, and a cig lighter power jack for all those portables. Ok, I think I will go with 3 conduits=85 I used 2 Vans hatch kits (same as hatch for stall warning assembly) to provide access to the step structure (probably overkill). Which exactly are these hatch kits? I used extra Vans strobe pwr mounts for my ELT and ADSB units. The Vans AHRS mount kit was used too. Good, I still have the one I bought for my -9A and didn=92t use On an unrelated note re the stall warning system in the wing. I flew the first 100 hours with it disconnected. Never missed it. Finally hooked it up and flew another 100 hours. It's very nice to have it just as an extra data point for the flare. Bill Watson Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
On 9/29/2012 8:35 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote: > > Thanks Bill > > Please find comments and additional questions below > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Watson > *Sent:* sbado, 29 de Setembro de 2012 3:30 > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > Re antennas, it's a good thing to get settled sooner than later. If > you plan on 2 commas, the fuse bottom is the place to put them. One > will naturally go under the baggage floor which will become > inaccessible soon. You can get a second along with a tpxr antenna > under the front seats... But that is easily accessible whenever. I > would recommend against a wing tip comm antenna. > > Ok, seems logic to install belly antennas before closing down any > floor panels. But how did you manage the exterior painting? Tape > masking the antennas? > The critical antenna(s) are any that you place under the baggage floor. I have 1 VHF antenna there. I installed it with the floor off using blind nuts. I copied Tim and others in the way I did that. As I recall, there is a doubling plate to provide stiffness and to mount the blind nuts. So it was not necessary rivet the nuts to the outer skin. Then, before closing up the skin, I fastened string/wire to the BNC connector to make it easy to fish out later. This may have required a slightly larger hole for the connector to fit thru the outer skin but I can't recall. Then I taped it for paint. Closed up the floor, wait 2 years, painted, then almost forgot how I had prepared the antenna. After 2 days of head scratching, I pulled the connector thru and bolted on the antenna. Lesson; don't assume some nifty idea used some time ago will be recalled after everything is buttoned up. My transponder and 2nd VHF antenna are under the front seats but that area is fully accessible for regular nuts and post-paint installation. > > And how about the ELT antenna? Did you put it inside or in the upper > surface of the tail cone? > I mounted it on the upper surface. I put it there because it was an after paint install due to the late availability of the ACK ELT. I just didn't feel like pulling the fairing off the tail and doing a bunch of tailcone installation work. I hate it there sticking out in the slipstream, the most prominent protuberance on the aircraft. But some other experiences have led me to think it is best there. Of course I assume it will never be needed. If it is needed however, it will be the most important antenna on the plane. In that case, I want it installed per the spec even though there's a pretty good case for installing under the tail fairing. But I'm glad it's where it is. > > FPS, check. Parking break, check > > Which FPS? The electro-mechanic 3-position one or the electronic one > (with trim compensation) from "Aircraft Extras"? > I have the electro-mechanical 3pos. It works great. Had a hiccup with it where it no longer did the automatic thing. The fix was known (some readjustment and tightening of some mechanics) but I put off fixing it for 4 or 5 months of flying. I learned 2 things - manual control works just fine, and that visual confirmation of flap position is easy in the '10. No indicator is really needed, even in the soup. Now that the 3 pos thing is working again, I love it. I would have consider the electronic one if it had been available. Re Parking Brake: I put one in because I was used to having one in my Maule where I used it a lot. My home airport's gas pump is on a slope. The Maule would roll, the '10 can be positioned so it won't, but the brake makes it a piece of cake. Flying to other airports, I use the brake sparingly but it does come in handy. It's a tool which you can operate with or without. Without it, I'd say you must carry chocks with you. I don't carry chocks but have the brake. Carrying chocks is a good idea anyway because too many times, the FBO won't have chocks that will fit under the pants. With the brake, you have to be careful NOT to use it if you will be towed. Oh, and my brake unit leaked and had to be returned to the supplier for a known fix. At KGKY, the line guy removed the chocks while I was loading. The '10 was on a slight slope and after a few mins, started to roll backwards into a fence. I was close enough to throw my body behind it and stop it. Sometimes unusual stuff just happens. > > I have a lot of electrical and avionics stuff. Two conduits is not > quite enough. I suggest wiring as much as you with the baggage floor > open (the Vans electrical plan is a good one to follow for basic > electricals). Then leave some open conduit for after the floor is > closed. For example, I have 2 batts, strobe pwr, dual GRT AHRS, > NavWorx ADSB, ELT plus pitch trim and AP. Some other items to consider > are rear seat audio jacks, static line, and a cig lighter power jack > for all those portables. > > Ok, I think I will go with 3 conduits... > > I used 2 Vans hatch kits (same as hatch for stall warning assembly) to > provide access to the step structure (probably overkill). > > Which exactly are these hatch kits? > VA-195D > > I used extra Vans strobe pwr mounts for my ELT and ADSB units. The > Vans AHRS mount kit was used too. > > Good, I still have the one I bought for my -9A and didn't use > I use 3 of them > > I was just looking at my receipts - 2 misc items Slick Start - this is a FWF item that you will need if you are getting the factory engine and running mags. I just picked up the Vans RV10 Cowl plug set after having a NJ Starling build a condo in my engine compartment in 2 days. Should have known better. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Extras in fuselage-parking brake
Mine leaked too. As I recall, there is/was a known deficiency and fix that they applied to my returned unit. No leaks since. It was a PITA. I'm pro-brake based on previous experience with a previous plane, but obviously you can operate the '10 either way. Bill Watson On 9/29/2012 1:16 PM, Tom Hanaway wrote: > > Put in the parking brake while building-easy install and no leaks during assembly testing. > Once finished plane, had a leak in parking brake. > Pulled parking brake (after first checking tightness of all fittings)-PITA getting to firewall. > Replaced with new unit-good for 15 hours and then started slow drip from same area of parking brake unit. > > Pulled it again-left it off. Brakes are now fine with no leaks. > > Very happy with less aggravation. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
On 9/29/2012 1:47 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > > A couple photos attached on wire conduit and parking brake. Note -- > the parking brake is attached to the bulkhead that is not in place in > this photo. > > Carl > > Pictures are great. I'll add these: parking brake: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2155&log=44741&row=21 http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2155&log=44743&row=19 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 29, 2012
If you have it, you will use it. The question is, is it really necessary? 6 00 RV hours on 2 planes and never really needed it.... Sent from my iPhone On Sep 29, 2012, at 12:25 PM, "Pascal" wrote: > I use the parking brake more than I ever thought I would. Last time was to hold the plane steady while I chocked it in place. Not having the brake wou ld have resulted in a moving plane on the slight incline. > I am glad I installed mine. I use it! > > From: Robin Marks > Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 9:10 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > I enjoy having my Parking Brakes on both the 8 & 10. Very simple, light an d relatively inexpensive. Worth the minor effort in my opinion. > > Robin > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus > Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 5:05 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > I had an RV-4 for ~500 hours and a RV-10 for ~100 hours and I've never had a parking brake either. For me it was just added cost, complexity, weight, and more potential brake fluid leak paths.... > > -Mike Kraus > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 28, 2012, at 11:13 PM, Rob Kochman wrote: > > Just to represent the other side of the parking brake question, I have ~15 0 hours and have never had a circumstance where I wish I had a parking brake . > > -Rob > > On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote: > Carlos, > > I'd recommend the park brake; an overhead console if you require more airf low (it gets really hot here in Australia); I fitted access hatches to en able me to get into the tunnel to service the fuel pump and consider antenna placement before you close up the floors. > > > Warm regards from Oz > > Patrick > > On 29/09/2012, at 8:24 AM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote: > > Thanks Bob > > > > I already had thought of that, so I plan to put 1 or 2 big conduits. Do th ey have to go from the tail cone, behind the baggage bulkhead, all the way t hrough the instrument panel? > > > > However, what I meant for Extras to put in the fuselage, I was referring t o gizmos not included in the kit, like a parking brake valve or some cockpit lights, or something else. > > > > Carlos > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > > > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner > > > Sent: sexta-feira, 28 de Setembro de 2012 20:08 > > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > > > > > > > > > Before riveting the baggage floor you'll need to pull wires (or lay cond uit). Put in > > > extras or allow for pulling more, people always underestimate how many t hey'll > > > need. > > > > > > -------- > > > Bob Turner > > > RV-10 QB > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384155#384155 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > > > RV10-List Email Forum - > > > browse > > > Un/Subscription, > > > FAQ, > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > > > > ========== > > > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > > > Forums! > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > > > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > > > > > > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ========== > > > > > > > > > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 Flying since March 2011 > Woodinville, WA > http://kochman.net/N819K > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=03g(=EF=BD=EF =BD=EF=BDM=EF=BDGq=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Sep 30, 2012
Hi guys, I'm installing a fibreglass overhead console which I purchased from the late Tony Sustare some years ago now. I never received any instructions with the console, so I'm mainly using Deems website as a guide as he also installed the same overhead console. The console installation is generally fiddly but not 'rocket science'. If anyone has any instructions that would be appreciated but not essential, however I'd really like to know what people used to seal the aft flange of the overhead console to the aft bulkhead in the baggage bay please? For information purposes, I'm using the same vents as Deems did, the black anodised aluminium vents from Stein, however I'm using the touch activated and touch dimming lights from Aveo, which can be selected from white to red LED in the same light. They are 'wicked'. No switches need to be installed, as the switching is touch sensitive. Also reduces wiring too. I'm also using LED's in the baggage bay, rather than the standard light. Warm regards from Oz Patrick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
Date: Sep 29, 2012
I have Geoff's overhead. Mine fits almost flush against the baggage bulkhead. I just used some standard weather stripping as a seal. bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 6:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console --> Hi guys, I'm installing a fibreglass overhead console which I purchased from the late Tony Sustare some years ago now. I never received any instructions with the console, so I'm mainly using Deems website as a guide as he also installed the same overhead console. The console installation is generally fiddly but not 'rocket science'. If anyone has any instructions that would be appreciated but not essential, however I'd really like to know what people used to seal the aft flange of the overhead console to the aft bulkhead in the baggage bay please? For information purposes, I'm using the same vents as Deems did, the black anodised aluminium vents from Stein, however I'm using the touch activated and touch dimming lights from Aveo, which can be selected from white to red LED in the same light. They are 'wicked'. No switches need to be installed, as the switching is touch sensitive. Also reduces wiring too. I'm also using LED's in the baggage bay, rather than the standard light. Warm regards from Oz Patrick ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Sep 30, 2012
Thanks Bob Warm regards Patrick On 30/09/2012, at 8:59 AM, "Bob Leffler" wrote: > > I have Geoff's overhead. Mine fits almost flush against the baggage > bulkhead. I just used some standard weather stripping as a seal. > > bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis > Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 6:32 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console > > --> > > Hi guys, > > I'm installing a fibreglass overhead console which I purchased from the late > Tony Sustare some years ago now. > > I never received any instructions with the console, so I'm mainly using > Deems website as a guide as he also installed the same overhead console. > The console installation is generally fiddly but not 'rocket science'. > > If anyone has any instructions that would be appreciated but not essential, > however I'd really like to know what people used to seal the aft flange of > the overhead console to the aft bulkhead in the baggage bay please? > > For information purposes, I'm using the same vents as Deems did, the black > anodised aluminium vents from Stein, however I'm using the touch activated > and touch dimming lights from Aveo, which can be selected from white to red > LED in the same light. They are 'wicked'. No switches need to be installed, > as the switching is touch sensitive. Also reduces wiring too. > > I'm also using LED's in the baggage bay, rather than the standard light. > > Warm regards from Oz > > Patrick > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 29, 2012
I used mold release on the baggage wall, cut the overhead as close as I could, then laid up epoxy/flox/glass to fill the gap. Then I removed the top, built an aft wall in the overhead plenum to seal it off and make it a pressurized chamber (ie, it doesn't need to seal against the aft baggage wall). Installed two 2" ducts and ran those to the naca inlets. I can send Picts in a few days if necessary. -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone On Sep 29, 2012, at 6:32 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote: > > Hi guys, > > I'm installing a fibreglass overhead console which I purchased from the late Tony Sustare some years ago now. > > I never received any instructions with the console, so I'm mainly using Deems website as a guide as he also installed the same overhead console. The console installation is generally fiddly but not 'rocket science'. > > If anyone has any instructions that would be appreciated but not essential, however I'd really like to know what people used to seal the aft flange of the overhead console to the aft bulkhead in the baggage bay please? > > For information purposes, I'm using the same vents as Deems did, the black anodised aluminium vents from Stein, however I'm using the touch activated and touch dimming lights from Aveo, which can be selected from white to red LED in the same light. They are 'wicked'. No switches need to be installed, as the switching is touch sensitive. Also reduces wiring too. > > I'm also using LED's in the baggage bay, rather than the standard light. > > Warm regards from Oz > > Patrick > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Sep 30, 2012
Mike I was thinking of doing that installation technique, thereby eliminating the need for a seal. Pictures would be appreciated when you are able please. Many thanks. Warm regards Patrick On 30/09/2012, at 11:34 AM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > I used mold release on the baggage wall, cut the overhead as close as I could, then laid up epoxy/flox/glass to fill the gap. Then I removed the top, built an aft wall in the overhead plenum to seal it off and make it a pressurized chamber (ie, it doesn't need to seal against the aft baggage wall). Installed two 2" ducts and ran those to the naca inlets. > > I can send Picts in a few days if necessary. > -Mike Kraus > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 29, 2012, at 6:32 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote: > >> >> Hi guys, >> >> I'm installing a fibreglass overhead console which I purchased from the late Tony Sustare some years ago now. >> >> I never received any instructions with the console, so I'm mainly using Deems website as a guide as he also installed the same overhead console. The console installation is generally fiddly but not 'rocket science'. >> >> If anyone has any instructions that would be appreciated but not essential, however I'd really like to know what people used to seal the aft flange of the overhead console to the aft bulkhead in the baggage bay please? >> >> For information purposes, I'm using the same vents as Deems did, the black anodised aluminium vents from Stein, however I'm using the touch activated and touch dimming lights from Aveo, which can be selected from white to red LED in the same light. They are 'wicked'. No switches need to be installed, as the switching is touch sensitive. Also reduces wiring too. >> >> I'm also using LED's in the baggage bay, rather than the standard light. >> >> Warm regards from Oz >> >> Patrick > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Sep 29, 2012
I have the same console. I can tell you that the instructions are not that good. I will try and get to the hanger tomorrow and see if I still have them. If I can find them I will get them posted here for you. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384288#384288 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Sep 30, 2012
Eric, I can't seem to get enough clearance with the front vents (Steins) as they hit the cabin top when positioned in the front holes which re pre-recessed into the fibreglass molding of the overhead console. Any suggestions would be appreciated please? I've considered positioning the front vents further aft. Warm regards Patrick On 30/09/2012, at 12:28 PM, "Eric_Kallio" wrote: > > I have the same console. I can tell you that the instructions are not that good. I will try and get to the hanger tomorrow and see if I still have them. If I can find them I will get them posted here for you. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384288#384288 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 2012
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Tail faring
Does anyone have a couple of photos their tail faring to share? I'm interested in seeing the aft part that goes over the elevator control tube. Thanks. Jay Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Tail faring
Not sure what you are looking for, but could take some pictures. The fiberglass fairing about the vertical/horizontal stab intersection doesn't cover the elevator tube much. The metal fairings under the horizontal stab are pretty straight forward. On 9/30/2012 7:27 AM, Jay Brinkmeyer wrote: > > Does anyone have a couple of photos their tail faring to share? I'm > interested in seeing the aft part that goes over the elevator control > tube. > > Thanks. > Jay > > > Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android > > * > > > * ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 2012
From: "Sean S. Blair" <dogsbark(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Tail faring
Jay, Are you speaking of the intersection fairing? If so, this is all I have:=C2 - http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=3 2319 Sean Blair COS RV7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2012 8:27:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Tail faring Does anyone have a couple of photos their tail faring to share? I'm interes ted in seeing the aft part that goes over the elevator control tube. Thanks. Jay ===================== == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tail faring
From: "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sep 30, 2012
Here's a photo of the aft side. Think I may have gotten a bit too aggressive "trimming to the scribe line". Is the top of the curve supposed to even with the top surface of the elevator? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384340#384340 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0989_116.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0988_377.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Upper edge holes in firewall.
From: Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 01, 2012
On the firewall for the 10, there are two holes in the firewall, upper 2/3 area, near both the left and right sides. Each hole gets a snap bushing of size SB625-8. I don't have the finish kit yet, but thus far don't see what the intended usage is for these holes. Any clues ? --Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Upper edge holes in firewall.
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Oct 01, 2012
IIRC The one on pilot's side is for wiring (Mag P-lead, Alt field, etc). The one on the co-pilot side is for a manifold pressure hose if using Van's MP guage. I'm personally using that one for all of my engine instrumentation wiring associated with my EFIS's engine management system. -------- Todd Stovall aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace 728TT RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384391#384391 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Oct 01, 2012
Patrick, I dug through the hanger and the garage and do not have the 'instructions' for the overhead. You aren't missing much though by way of guidance from them though. On my installation I had no issue with the vent clearance. I tried to attach a close up picture of my vent so you could compare. Were I really had trouble was the joggle on the canopy cover over the back seats. Not even close is an understatement. Not only was it not in the ballpark, but we were playing different sports. I had to do remove the sides for about 8 inches forward and aft of the joggle and reshape it all. Minor work in the grand scheme of things. I did not however have an issue with clearance. With the vents installed there is no restriction of movement and with about 3/4" between the vent and the canopy I get plenty of airflow. Never had the vents fully open in cruise. Getting a whole lot of air out of them. Feel free to PM me if there are any specifics I can try to help you with. Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384406#384406 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/close_up_of_vent1_364.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Extras in Fuselage
Full Disclosure - I have a parking brake and had one on my Maule. I like it on the '10 after the leak was fixed. A parking brake is just a tool, an accessory. Differential braking is a requirement, a parking brake is optional. A parking brake can leak, possibly fail, possibly cause future failures, it has weight, it can be misused. Without it, you may not park in a certain place or you may re-orient the plane. You'll probably carry chocks. In any case you will easily work around not having it. No problem. With it, you can use it to encourage the plane not to move in certain situations. You can generally leave the chocks at home. You'll use it a lot when you don't need it. It may save your bacon one day but probably not. It is just a convenience. It may cause you to cancel a flight because it malfunctions in some way. It's like GPS or cockpit weather - we flew with out that stuff but we can do more with that stuff. Actually it's not like either of them because a parking brake isn't going to enable any flights you wouldn't otherwise make. It doesn't really make anything safer. It's just a convenience. More than a cup holder, much less than a tow bar. I was thinking about how one should decide what accessories to put in and which ones to leave out. I like all the ones I have. I don't need any of the ones I didn't put in. So much for that decision process. Bill "very happy" Watson On 10/1/2012 3:46 PM, Ben Westfall wrote: > > Id turn the plane sideways under power and/or taxi it to some place > where I can plant a wheel where it wont be as likely to roll (grass > or what have you). I recall needing the inop parking brake in my > Cessna once in 600 or so hours. I dont recall what I did though when > needing it though so it must have been a non event. I would > definitely use a parking brake in the 10 if installed but I chose not > to install one in my in progress kit. > > -Ben > > *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Pascal > *Sent:* Monday, October 01, 2012 7:43 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Extras in Fuselage > > I am quite surprised that Tim, who has traveled the country does not > see a need for a parking brake. I dont travel near enough in > comparison and I have already used mine 4 times. Its insurance, its > easy to do while building and good to have if ever needed, if one > flies alone often, ask yourself what youll do if you are in a parking > spot that has an incline. We go camping at a airport that is like > this, if you want to camp there you need someone to get out and chock > the plane before getting out. I guess whenever mine starts to leak I > may need to determine what to do next, but thankfully there has been > no issues with mine. I apply it, get out of the plane, chock the plane > and release the parking brake. If I dont need it 98% of the time I > dont use it, but glad to have it when I need it. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV10 COWL
From: "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com>
Date: Oct 01, 2012
Before I order the upper and lower cowl for my RV 10 I'm checking with everyone out there to make sure somebody don't have one for sale? I need the upper and lower cowl for a RV10. -------- RV-10 #40447 Fuselage almost done. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384416#384416 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Parking brake alternative
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 01, 2012
There is an on-going thread about whether or not to install a parking brake. I did not, but I can offer an alternative: I put tabs on the front of my tow bar, as suggested by others, to use it as a rudder gust lock. (tabs keep the bar from falling off the rudder pedals; handle of towbar is against the seatback; lap belt holds it down.) All you need to do is move the towbar up so it pushes on the right seat brakes. I can do this while holding the brakes from the left seat. Yes, it does require pre-planning, so the towbar is within reach. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384424#384424 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 2012
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Parking brake alternative - now including towbars
I've been using my Bogi-Bar (04M -RV10) to do the same thing http://bogertaviation.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=3&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=23 I haven't modified it at all up to this point. With the bar collapsed, I jam it into the bottom of the pedals and the front of the bottom seat cushion. It has stayed in place so far but I'd like to add tabs to it that would fit into the rudder pedals. What I envisioned for tabs however, would not necessary still work if I re-positioned it to the top of the brakes. So I'm wondering, 1) are you using a Bogi Bar? and if so, 2) where do the tabs go? I'm curious not because I want to actuate the brakes but because I don't think I have a clear idea of where the tabs go and how they work. BTW, for awhile I was snaking the control stick up thru the Bogi Bar so as to get some elevator and aileron locking. It seemed to work but I never really tested it to see if it was firm enough to prevent any kink of 'flutter' that may occur in higher winds. Now I just push the stick over to one side. I'm thinking of adding a strap to hold the stick so that the elevator and ailerons are also secured. Anyone doing this? Thoughts? Bill Watson On 10/1/2012 6:49 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > There is an on-going thread about whether or not to install a parking brake. I did not, but I can offer an alternative: > > I put tabs on the front of my tow bar, as suggested by others, to use it as a rudder gust lock. (tabs keep the bar from falling off the rudder pedals; handle of towbar is against the seatback; lap belt holds it down.) > > All you need to do is move the towbar up so it pushes on the right seat brakes. I can do this while holding the brakes from the left seat. Yes, it does require pre-planning, so the towbar is within reach. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Parking brake alternative - now including towbars
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 01, 2012
Yes I have the Boggert bar. Tabs: If you visualize the bar attached to the nose wheel, the tabs are on top of the bar, protruding aft, beyond where the bar turns in toward the nose wheel. I just used some scrap aluminum and a couple of hose clamps on each side. I know some have welded them on. The tab goes over the rudder and under the brake (unless I'm using it as a parking brake, them the tabs go over the brake pedals) and keep the bar from falling down if the pedals move a little in the wind. I use the full extension against the seat back. Due to the slope of the seat back, as I pull the lap belt tight around the towbar it makes the towbar push forward, against the pedals. I put some foam pipe insulation around the triangular opening in the towbar, just before where the handle pin is. I insert the control stick thru this opening, the foam provides some padding. Then I use the lap belt for the other front seat to pull the sticks aft, against the padding, to minimize movement in the wind. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384428#384428 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Oct 02, 2012
Eric, I had no issues down he back, it's the front that's giving me grief. I'll need to build up he front with a small base in order to lower the vents away from the overhead and the cabin top on order for the vents to clear the cabin top. I'll get there, however progress is slow. Warm regards Patrick On 02/10/2012, at 5:37 AM, "Eric_Kallio" wrote: > > Patrick, I dug through the hanger and the garage and do not have the 'instructions' for the overhead. You aren't missing much though by way of guidance from them though. On my installation I had no issue with the vent clearance. I tried to attach a close up picture of my vent so you could compare. Were I really had trouble was the joggle on the canopy cover over the back seats. Not even close is an understatement. Not only was it not in the ballpark, but we were playing different sports. I had to do remove the sides for about 8 inches forward and aft of the joggle and reshape it all. Minor work in the grand scheme of things. I did not however have an issue with clearance. With the vents installed there is no restriction of movement and with about 3/4" between the vent and the canopy I get plenty of airflow. Never had the vents fully open in cruise. Getting a whole lot of air out of them. Feel free to PM me if there are any specifics I can try to help you with. > > Eric > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384406#384406 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/close_up_of_vent1_364.jpg > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
Date: Oct 02, 2012
Guys Can you tell someone that doesn=92t know anything about this overhead console, where does the fresh air to these vents come from? Thanks Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis > Sent: ter=E7a-feira, 2 de Outubro de 2012 10:41 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console > > > Eric, I had no issues down he back, it's the front that's giving me grief. > > I'll need to build up he front with a small base in order to lower the vents away from > the overhead and the cabin top on order for the vents to clear the cabin top. > > I'll get there, however progress is slow. > > Warm regards > > Patrick > > On 02/10/2012, at 5:37 AM, "Eric_Kallio" wrote: > > > > > Patrick, I dug through the hanger and the garage and do not have the > 'instructions' for the overhead. You aren't missing much though by way of guidance > from them though. On my installation I had no issue with the vent clearance. I tried > to attach a close up picture of my vent so you could compare. Were I really had > trouble was the joggle on the canopy cover over the back seats. Not even close is > an understatement. Not only was it not in the ballpark, but we were playing different > sports. I had to do remove the sides for about 8 inches forward and aft of the joggle > and reshape it all. Minor work in the grand scheme of things. I did not however > have an issue with clearance. With the vents installed there is no restriction of > movement and with about 3/4" between the vent and the canopy I get plenty of > airflow. Never had the vents fully open in cruise. Getting a whole lot of air out of > them. Feel free to PM me if there are any specifics I can try to help you with. > > > > Eric > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384406#384406 > > > > > > > > > > Attachments: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/close_up_of_vent1_364.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
Date: Oct 02, 2012
Carlos here are some pictures that might help. Just put a NACA scoop as in the photo 2" scat tubing from the NACA to the bulk head fittings as in the pictures. Hope this helps Geoff Combs _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2012 8:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console Guys Can you tell someone that doesn=92t know anything about this overhead console, where does the fresh air to these vents come from? Thanks Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis > Sent: ter=E7a-feira, 2 de Outubro de 2012 10:41 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console > > > Eric, I had no issues down he back, it's the front that's giving me grief. > > I'll need to build up he front with a small base in order to lower the vents away from > the overhead and the cabin top on order for the vents to clear the cabin top. > > I'll get there, however progress is slow. > > Warm regards > > Patrick > > On 02/10/2012, at 5:37 AM, "Eric_Kallio" wrote: > > > > > Patrick, I dug through the hanger and the garage and do not have the > 'instructions' for the overhead. You aren't missing much though by way of guidance > from them though. On my installation I had no issue with the vent clearance. I tried > to attach a close up picture of my vent so you could compare. Were I really had > trouble was the joggle on the canopy cover over the back seats. Not even close is > an understatement. Not only was it not in the ballpark, but we were playing different > sports. I had to do remove the sides for about 8 inches forward and aft of the joggle > and reshape it all. Minor work in the grand scheme of things. I did not however > have an issue with clearance. With the vents installed there is no restriction of > movement and with about 3/4" between the vent and the canopy I get plenty of > airflow. Never had the vents fully open in cruise. Getting a whole lot of air out of > them. Feel free to PM me if there are any specifics I can try to help you with. > > > > Eric > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384406#384406 > > > > > > > > > > Attachments: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/close_up_of_vent1_364.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > RV10-List Email Forum - > browse > Un/Subscription, > FAQ, > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ========== > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > Forums! > > > > ========== > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 2012
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
Carlos, there are several ideas around however at the end it is always the need to create an outside air opening going into that overhead console, that could be an NACA inlet on the top (do not forget to care for the water entering it or you have a shower ;) or some other opening bringing via a duct some fresh air to that console. For Iberia you could look into an aircon as well instead? Cheers Werner On 02.10.2012 14:35, Carlos Trigo wrote: > Guys > > Can you tell someone that doesnt know anything about this overhead > console, where does the fresh air to these vents come from? > > Thanks > > Carlos > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis > >> Sent: tera-feira, 2 de Outubro de 2012 10:41 > >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console > >> > > >> > >> Eric, I had no issues down he back, it's the front that's giving me grief. > >> > >> I'll need to build up he front with a small base in order to lower the > vents away from > >> the overhead and the cabin top on order for the vents to clear the > cabin top. > >> > >> I'll get there, however progress is slow. > >> > >> Warm regards > >> > >> Patrick > >> > >> On 02/10/2012, at 5:37 AM, "Eric_Kallio" wrote: > >> > > >> > > >> > Patrick, I dug through the hanger and the garage and do not have the > >> 'instructions' for the overhead. You aren't missing much though by way > of guidance > >> from them though. On my installation I had no issue with the vent > clearance. I tried > >> to attach a close up picture of my vent so you could compare. Were I > really had > >> trouble was the joggle on the canopy cover over the back seats. Not > even close is > >> an understatement. Not only was it not in the ballpark, but we were > playing different > >> sports. I had to do remove the sides for about 8 inches forward and > aft of the joggle > >> and reshape it all. Minor work in the grand scheme of things. I did > not however > >> have an issue with clearance. With the vents installed there is no > restriction of > >> movement and with about 3/4" between the vent and the canopy I get > plenty of > >> airflow. Never had the vents fully open in cruise. Getting a whole lot > of air out of > >> them. Feel free to PM me if there are any specifics I can try to help > you with. > >> > > >> > Eric > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > Read this topic online here: > >> > > >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384406#384406 > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > Attachments: > >> > > >> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/close_up_of_vent1_364.jpg > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >> > >> ========== > >> RV10-List Email Forum - > >> browse > >> Un/Subscription, > >> FAQ, > >> > >> > >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > >> > >> ========== > >> bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > >> Forums! > >> > >> > >> > >> ========== > >> bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > >> > >> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution > >> ========== > >> > > * > > > * > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Parking brake alternative - now including towbars
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 02, 2012
I welded two small tabs on the tips, as described by Bob. It works fine. I move the stick to the side, jam the collapsed tow bar against the bottom cushion, and bungee the stick to the tow bar. It's been suggested to me that I slip it over the stick and jam the extended tow bar against the back cushion. the seat belt would definitely make it more secure. The only doubt I have is the tow bar pushing the brake pedals enough to "slip through". Also, locked brakes would complicate things if the FBO needed to move your plane. John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384461#384461 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fiberglass Overhead Console
Date: Oct 02, 2012
No one asked, but. I started to fit up an overhead console in my plane but then decided against it. My concern was head clearance. With 47 hours now on the plane (most on 90+ degree days), I find the ventilation provided by the stock Van's vents works well. I did make two homebrew LED flexible lights, using the brace top bracket screws to mount. Total cost was less than $10. Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Question for the fiberglass mavens
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Oct 02, 2012
Hi I am finishing my cowl (yeah right!) and am wondering how to install some rivets so that they won't fail or crack paint. I want to install Skybolt CamLoc flanges. These flanges use -3 countersunk rivets. My cowl is carbon fiber with gel coat. My plan is to embed the flanges, after roughening up with scotch rite, in a bed of flox. I also plan roughen up the gel coat and put a later of glass over the line of rivet heads. Is the above a reasonable approach or is there a better way? Should I remove all the gel coat before glassing the rivet line. The carbon fiber is not all that thick so I don't want the rivets to pull through. Many thanks Les #40-643 Now looking at the freight train at the end of a long dark tunnel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
Date: Oct 02, 2012
Thanks Geoff Indeed a picture (several pictures is even better) is worth a million words.... They sure helped. Carlos _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs Sent: ter=E7a-feira, 2 de Outubro de 2012 14:01 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console Carlos here are some pictures that might help. Just put a NACA scoop as in the photo 2" scat tubing from the NACA to the bulk head fittings as in the pictures. Hope this helps Geoff Combs _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2012 8:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console Guys Can you tell someone that doesn=92t know anything about this overhead console, where does the fresh air to these vents come from? Thanks Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis > Sent: ter=E7a-feira, 2 de Outubro de 2012 10:41 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console > > > Eric, I had no issues down he back, it's the front that's giving me grief. > > I'll need to build up he front with a small base in order to lower the vents away from > the overhead and the cabin top on order for the vents to clear the cabin top. > > I'll get there, however progress is slow. > > Warm regards > > Patrick > > On 02/10/2012, at 5:37 AM, "Eric_Kallio" wrote: > > > > > Patrick, I dug through the hanger and the garage and do not have the > 'instructions' for the overhead. You aren't missing much though by way of guidance > from them though. On my installation I had no issue with the vent clearance. I tried > to attach a close up picture of my vent so you could compare. Were I really had > trouble was the joggle on the canopy cover over the back seats. Not even close is > an understatement. Not only was it not in the ballpark, but we were playing different > sports. I had to do remove the sides for about 8 inches forward and aft of the joggle > and reshape it all. Minor work in the grand scheme of things. I did not however > have an issue with clearance. With the vents installed there is no restriction of > movement and with about 3/4" between the vent and the canopy I get plenty of > airflow. Never had the vents fully open in cruise. Getting a whole lot of air out of > them. Feel free to PM me if there are any specifics I can try to help you with. > > > > Eric > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384406#384406 > > > > > > > > > > Attachments: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/close_up_of_vent1_364.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > RV10-List Email Forum - > browse > Un/Subscription, > FAQ, > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ========== > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > Forums! > > > > ========== > bsp; - List Contribution Web Site - > > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: RE: Fiberglass Overhead Console and stock ventilation
Date: Oct 02, 2012
Carl Now that you mentioned the stock Van=92s ventilation, I was trying to understand it in the manual, but I can only find (in page 50-3), the installation instruction to mount the NACA scoop on the inside of the fuselage hole, and nothing else. Page 4 of section 50 is =93intentionally left blank=94 and there is no page 5. Are the vents directly mounted to the downwind end of the scoops? And by the way, did everybody use the plastic vents or did you exchange those by the high dollar aluminium vents? Carlos _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: ter=E7a-feira, 2 de Outubro de 2012 15:07 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fiberglass Overhead Console No one asked, but=85 I started to fit up an overhead console in my plane but then decided against it. My concern was head clearance. With 47 hours now on the plane (most on 90+ degree days), I find the ventilation provided by the stock Van=92s vents works well. I did make two homebrew LED flexible lights, using the brace top bracket screws to mount. Total cost was less than $10. Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Oct 02, 2012
Carlos, I have 260 hours with Aerosport's overhead console. It is one of the few must have's in my opinion. Really nice haveing multiple areas to adjust air instead of one blasting your left kneecap. -------- 40936 RV-10 SB N801VR Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384469#384469 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/interior_sm4_962.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console
Date: Oct 02, 2012
That=92s right Werner I will consider the aircon option, but I need to know prices and weights...... Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider > Sent: ter=E7a-feira, 2 de Outubro de 2012 14:05 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Fibreglass Overhead Console > > > Carlos, > > there are several ideas around however at the end it is always the need > to create an outside air opening going into that overhead console, that > could be an NACA inlet on the top (do not forget to care for the water > entering it or you have a shower ;) or some other opening bringing via a > duct some fresh air to that console. > > For Iberia you could look into an aircon as well instead? > > Cheers > > Werner > > On 02.10.2012 14:35, Carlos Trigo wrote: > > Guys > > > > Can you tell someone that doesn=92t know anything about this overhead > > console, where does the fresh air to these vents come from? > > > > Thanks > > > > Carlos > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Fiberglass Overhead Console and stock ventilation
Date: Oct 02, 2012
Yes, the vents mount directly on the NACA scoops. Four #8 screws with a washer under the head and nut work well. I just used the plastic vents, thinking that if I have spare cash in the future I could always buy the nice (but overpriced) aluminum ones from Van=92s. I have the same plastic vents in my 8A for 10 years and never found reason to change them. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2012 10:40 AM Subject: RV10-List: RE: Fiberglass Overhead Console and stock ventilation Carl Now that you mentioned the stock Van=92s ventilation, I was trying to understand it in the manual, but I can only find (in page 50-3), the

September 07, 2012 - October 02, 2012

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