RV10-Archive.digest.vol-jg
February 20, 2013 - March 18, 2013
RV-4 sold :-(
RV-10 flying :-)
KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings |
Mike,
I have never changed the SkyView default setting. It has worked perfectly for
me. Any chance something else is going on?
Carl
On Feb 20, 2013, at 1:03 PM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a flying -10 with a Dynon Skyview with good autopilot settings
then can share? Mine works great in calm air, but chases altitude and sometimes
course in turbulence more than I expect. I'm pretty site it's just settings.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 sold :-(
> RV-10 flying :-)
> KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I would like them too. I haven't even messed with settings at all yet. It does
pretty good, but wanders a little.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 20, 2013, at 1:03 PM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a flying -10 with a Dynon Skyview with good autopilot settings
then can share? Mine works great in calm air, but chases altitude and sometimes
course in turbulence more than I expect. I'm pretty site it's just settings.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 sold :-(
> RV-10 flying :-)
> KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
No handle, but I do have a plastic two step stepstool. The top step goes over the
aircraft step. It give passengers two steps, much wider steps, and a little
closer to the wing so the step onto the wing is easier. My short legged passengers
find it helps. Folds to fit thru the baggage door.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394701#394701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carroll L. Verhage" <cv93436(at)windstream.net> |
Patrick: Grab handles are nice and work well. They are easy to
install. I have seen all sizes of grab handles but ones that look nice
and are just the right size are Lowes' stainless 128mm BP27021-G drawer
pull. I mounted them just above the rear windows 12 inches aft of the
door opening. Their additional aeronautical drag is negligable. Make a
template of the mounting holes on the handle. Drill a #8 screw size
pilot hole through each layer of the Lexan into the cabin. Make sure
these holes match the handle. Reem a little if necessary. Then drill
the outer layer of the Lexan the OD of an aluminum spacer with an ID
about the size of the #8 screw (I think it was 3/16 OD and 1/8 ID). Cut
the spacer the length of the thickness of the Lexan so it stops against
the inner layer of the Lexan and is flush with the outside Lexan
surface. Mix about a tablespoon of epoxy with fiberglass filler for
each handle the consistancy of peanut butter. Put 1/2 the epoxy in each
mounting hole. Put a spacer in each hole so it has some fiberglass
around the spacer filling up the cavity between the two layers of Lexan.
Align the spacers by putting the handles back on. Let the fiberglass
harden. Permanently mount the handles using a stainless steel fender
washer inside the cabin. If the spacer is a little long, you can file
it down flush with the outside. The spacer has to be long enough to
press against the inner layer. With the spacers surrounded by
fiberglass, it will stay in place when the handle is removed and also
assure you don't collapse the shell when the handle is tightened down.
You can add handles after you have your 10 built and flying and the
cabin upholstery installed.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carroll L. Verhage" <cv93436(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Attach |
Realizing it would be very inconvenient to remove the back cabin
bulkhead to jump the battery, we installed a Piper-type power plug just
aft of the baggage door across from the battery. We used a reinforcing
plate, cut shim gaskets out of aluminum and gasket material so it lies
smoothly on the outside. We sealed it with silicone. It works well and
has saved several quite frustrating efforts to remove the back panel at
the most inconvenient times to jump the battery.
RV-10 41087 N123CV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ground power attach |
Last time we installed an APU plug we made a batch of the doublers.
This is for the big AN connector. It comes ready to countersink and
attach. You just use the doubler for a template.
We're going to put this on the web site for sale but I thought I'd
mention it here first. It works really well. Comes with the heavy
duty doubler plate, hex stand-offs, and fiberglass push-on cover.
I like the APU plug forward of the left door so you can see if it's
plugged in before you taxi away.
Price is $100 plus shipping for the doubler, standoffs, and fiberglass cover.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Attach |
The rule I have is if you need to jump a battery(s) to start the engine, you
need instead to charge the battery(s) so you have it for flight.
Considering Odyssey batteries retain ~90% of charge after sitting for 6
months, there is little need to charge other than prolonged ground running
of the panel. If you leave a master on and kill the battery, you don't want
to fly until you know it will hold a charge - so again jumping for engine
start is not an option.
Most of us are heavily reliant on uninterrupted power to sophisticated
panels.
I took the easy way to provide access to connect a battery charger. Photos
attached.
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Attach |
I would like to add that it was strongly recommended to me that one not dep
end on a battery charger to support your expensive avionics when running w/
o ships power. For both my G900x & Dual G3x I use the same 14V? regulated p
ower supply. I have a small socket that plugs into the power supply for all
ground work. I am told the power supply gives a spike free juice not achie
ved by a battery charger. I don't fully understand why if one is using the
battery to buffer the load other than the possibility energizing the entire
system with dirty juice. Sorry no pix of the power supply. I know mine cos
t about $150US.
Again I am no expert but my preference is to minimize the amount of smoke c
oming out of my panel.
Robin
[cid:image001.jpg(at)01CE0F8B.7399C090]
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 3:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ground Power Attach
The rule I have is if you need to jump a battery(s) to start the engine, yo
u need instead to charge the battery(s) so you have it for flight. Conside
ring Odyssey batteries retain ~90% of charge after sitting for 6 months, th
ere is little need to charge other than prolonged ground running of the pan
el. If you leave a master on and kill the battery, you don't want to fly u
ntil you know it will hold a charge - so again jumping for engine start is
not an option.
Most of us are heavily reliant on uninterrupted power to sophisticated pane
ls.
I took the easy way to provide access to connect a battery charger. Photos
attached.
Carl
http://www.matronic================
http://forums.matronics.com
- List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> http:/
/www.matronics.com/c=<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Attach |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Attach |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ground power attach |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I mounted a pair of banana jacks to a bracket attached to the center support behind
the aft bulkhead. They protrude forward slightly, thru a pair of small holes
in the bulkhead. Attached to the battery via an in-line fuse. For charging
only, not jump starting.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394721#394721
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grab handles |
Hey Carroll,
I couldn=99t find the handles by your number online with
Lowe=99s here, but did find it at Home Depot.
Later, =93 Lew
From: Carroll L. Verhage
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 5:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Grab handles
Patrick: Grab handles are nice and work well. They are easy to
install. I have seen all sizes of grab handles but ones that look nice
and are just the right size are Lowes' stainless 128mm BP27021-G drawer
pull. I mounted them just above the rear windows 12 inches aft of the
door opening. Their additional aeronautical drag is negligable. Make a
template of the mounting holes on the handle. Drill a #8 screw size
pilot hole through each layer of the Lexan into the cabin. Make sure
these holes match the handle. Reem a little if necessary. Then drill
the outer layer of the Lexan the OD of an aluminum spacer with an ID
about the size of the #8 screw (I think it was 3/16 OD and 1/8 ID). Cut
the spacer the length of the thickness of the Lexan so it stops against
the inner layer of the Lexan and is flush with the outside Lexan
surface. Mix about a tablespoon of epoxy with fiberglass filler for
each handle the consistancy of peanut butter. Put 1/2 the epoxy in each
mounting hole. Put a spacer in each hole so it has some fiberglass
around the spacer filling up the cavity between the two layers of Lexan.
Align the spacers by putting the handles back on. Let the fiberglass
harden. Permanently mount the handles using a stainless steel fender
washer inside the cabin. If the spacer is a little long, you can file
it down flush with the outside. The spacer has to be long enough to
press against the inner layer. With the spacers surrounded by
fiberglass, it will stay in place when the handle is removed and also
assure you don't collapse the shell when the handle is tightened down.
You can add handles after you have your 10 built and flying and the
cabin upholstery installed.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne Pedersen <waynepedersen4(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | PC925L & PC680 mounting |
I have searched the archives and can't seem to fine any pictures or discussion
on mounting a dual battery system comprising of a PC925L and PC680. Anybody have
any pictures of their mounting configuration or "if I had to do it again" confessions?
I have considered the PC925L in standard rear position and PC680 on the firewall
as in the RV7.
Thanks
Wayne
RV10 final wiring
RV7"eh?" flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grab handles |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Many thanks Carroll.
Warm regards
Patrick
On 21/02/2013, at 8:38 AM, "Carroll L. Verhage" wro
te:
> Patrick: Grab handles are nice and work well. They are easy to install.
I have seen all sizes of grab handles but ones that look nice and are just
the right size are Lowes' stainless 128mm BP27021-G drawer pull. I mounted
them just above the rear windows 12 inches aft of the door opening. Their a
dditional aeronautical drag is negligable. Make a template of the mounting h
oles on the handle. Drill a #8 screw size pilot hole through each layer of t
he Lexan into the cabin. Make sure these holes match the handle. Reem a l
ittle if necessary. Then drill the outer layer of the Lexan the OD of an al
uminum spacer with an ID about the size of the #8 screw (I think it was 3/16
OD and 1/8 ID). Cut the spacer the length of the thickness of the Lexan so
it stops against the inner layer of the Lexan and is flush with the outside
Lexan surface. Mix about a tablespoon of epoxy with fiberglass filler for e
ach handle the consistancy of peanut butter. Put 1/2 the epoxy in each moun
ting hole. Put a spacer in each hole so it has some fiberglass around the s
pacer filling up the cavity between the two layers of Lexan. Align the spac
ers by putting the handles back on. Let the fiberglass harden. Permanently m
ount the handles using a stainless steel fender washer inside the cabin. If
the spacer is a little long, you can file it down flush with the outside. T
he spacer has to be long enough to press against the inner layer. With the s
pacers surrounded by fiberglass, it will stay in place when the handle is re
moved and also assure you don't collapse the shell when the handle is tighte
ned down. You can add handles after you have your 10 built and flying and t
he cabin upholstery installed.
>
>
> Carroll
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grab handles |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Any pictures please Lew?
Warm regards
Patrick
On 21/02/2013, at 3:17 PM, wrote:
> Hey Carroll,
>
> I couldn=99t find the handles by your number online with Lowe=99
s here, but did find it at Home Depot.
>
> Later, =93 Lew
>
> From: Carroll L. Verhage
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 5:08 PM
> To: RV-10
> Subject: RV10-List: Grab handles
>
> Patrick: Grab handles are nice and work well. They are easy to install.
I have seen all sizes of grab handles but ones that look nice and are just
the right size are Lowes' stainless 128mm BP27021-G drawer pull. I mounted
them just above the rear windows 12 inches aft of the door opening. Their a
dditional aeronautical drag is negligable. Make a template of the mounting h
oles on the handle. Drill a #8 screw size pilot hole through each layer of t
he Lexan into the cabin. Make sure these holes match the handle. Reem a li
ttle if necessary. Then drill the outer layer of the Lexan the OD of an alu
minum spacer with an ID about the size of the #8 screw (I think it was 3/16 O
D and 1/8 ID). Cut the spacer the length of the thickness of the Lexan so i
t stops against the inner layer of the Lexan and is flush with the outside L
exan surface. Mix about a tablespoon of epoxy with fiberglass filler for ea
ch handle the consistancy of peanut butter. Put 1/2 the epoxy in each mount
ing hole. Put a spacer in each hole so it has some fiberglass around the sp
acer filling up the cavity between the two layers of Lexan. Align the space
rs by putting the handles back on. Let the fiberglass harden. Permanently m
ount the handles using a stainless steel fender washer inside the cabin. If
the spacer is a little long, you can file it down flush with the outside. T
he spacer has to be long enough to press against the inner layer. With the s
pacers surrounded by fiberglass, it will stay in place when the handle is re
moved and also assure you don't collapse the shell when the handle is tighte
ned down. You can add handles after you have your 10 built and flying and t
he cabin upholstery installed.
>
>
> Carroll
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
That's the same configuration I'm looking at. Vans as you point out has a firewall
kit for the pc680, I'm also looking at the Hawker tray. It's similar to
the one I have in my flying 6 although the battery in the 6 is smaller. I believe
someone has installed the firewall 680 and am looking for photos as well.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394764#394764
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
I put a 680 on my firewall and have managed to kill the battery in two
years. I think it was a heat problem. Next month while I am doing my
condition inspection I am planning on taking the battery down to the battery
shop and having them check it out and see if they can help tell me what went
wrong. I have a 925 in the back that dates back to 2007. It is still going
strong, but I am planning on having that checked out also. I put the 680 on
the firewall after I was flying for extra reserve power and.....to move the
CG forward. When I was building the airplane, because of some online
discussions, I was concerned about the forward CG position of the stock
airplane and made some decisions that drove the CG back (o2 and ELT
placement). But after I was flying I found the CG to far back. So, I added
the battery.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 2:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting
That's the same configuration I'm looking at. Vans as you point out has a
firewall kit for the pc680, I'm also looking at the Hawker tray. It's
similar to the one I have in my flying 6 although the battery in the 6 is
smaller. I believe someone has installed the firewall 680 and am looking
for photos as well.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394764#394764
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ground power attach |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I understand the jump start argument, but still think options and flexibility are
good.
There is a big difference in risk between night/IFR and day/vfr. Most EFIS systems
have independent power backup. Getting stuck where a battery or AC power
for a charge is either unavailable or a ripoff might change perspective. A lot
of airplanes fly without electrical systems, but a 540 would be a tough and
dangerous hand throw.
A jump is much safer if a solo pilot can remain at the controls and the Samaritan
just needs to pull the plug and either keep or mail the cables.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394767#394767
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Here is our set up. The PC925 fits perfect in the existing Vans designed tray.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394768#394768
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1978_561.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Lifting |
I used a coupla of Harbor Freight Jacks and made some jack stands using
plywood to hold them vertical. Used a short length of ready-bolt to screw
into the tie down ring holes. Works well.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Seems like you need the 925L to match the cables as Vans supplies them,
with the negative at the front end of the battery and positive to the rear.
On Thu, Feb 21, 2013 at 5:09 PM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
> Here is our set up. The PC925 fits perfect in the existing Vans designed
> tray.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394768#394768
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1978_561.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Nice setup Bill, do you have any photos of your tray construction and supports
for the battery and accessories?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394774#394774
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
Nice!
Robin
Sent from the new iPad
On Feb 21, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "bill.peyton" wrote:
>
> Here is our set up. The PC925 fits perfect in the existing Vans designed tray.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394768#394768
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1978_561.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
The 925L polarity is correct for the installation. Sorry, I don't have any other
photos of the tray. :(
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394777#394777
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grab handles |
Hey Patrick,
Try
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100631483/h_d2/ProductDisplay?cat
alogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=BP27021-G&storeId=10051&superSkuId
2784539
for the actual Home Depot online item. I=99ll attach their
picture to see if it goes through.
Later, =93 Lew
From: Patrick Pulis
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Grab handles
Any pictures please Lew?
Warm regards
Patrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Mine is set up almost like Bill's. I made my own 680 holder. It is supported off
of the factory battery mount. The bottom of holder is bonded to bottom skin
with proseal. If I had it to do over, I would have installed the 680 on the firewall
since 95% of my flights are with family and baggage. It limits my baggage
to 99 lbs with existing rear seat passenger weights. I like the 30-45 minutes
of panel power and aux starting capabilities. No ext power connector needed.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394779#394779
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Bill, how did you support the additional tray both under and toward the f1047 rib?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394803#394803
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
h
ttp://www.northcountrypublicradio.org/news/story/21496/20130222/friday-s-n
ews-briefs-from-the-associated-press
http://online.wsj.com/article/AP64479ee6392741ab994d76cc02180839.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Packing List |
I'm helping a friend build an RV-8 and I'm wondering if anyone has or knows
of a scanned copy of the packing lists and bag contents that could be
downloaded. Certainly would be easier than scanning our copy, correcting all
the scanning errors and putting it into Excel for sorting.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
That side of the tray has a stiffener that slides under the rib to reinforce the
rib. I used 3 #8 hardware to attach to the rib. It's very solid.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394820#394820
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rwwende" <n7006w(at)gmail.com> |
[quote="rleffler"]Look at the flight data around 6:09pm. It shows the decent from
9400 to 3200 and multiple changes of direction. But after 6:09pm is looks
like what may have been filed.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 22, 2013, at 2:35 PM, Seano wrote:
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 22, 2013, at 12:08, Chris wrote:
>
>
> > From internet sleuthing might be N10FD
>
> -Chris
>
> ---
Filed 105KTs....seems slow for a 10.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394826#394826
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Came across this on Associated Press this morning:
LAKE PLACID, N.Y. -- An experimental aircraft crashed into a wooded area just outside
the village of Lake Placid, leaving three men to spend more than 10 hours
in frigid conditions before they could be rescued early Friday.
The men, all in their 50s and all from Westfield, were checked out by an ambulance
crew but declined additional medical treatment when state forest rangers brought
them out of the woods on snowmobiles around 4 a.m. Friday, according to
the Department of Environmental Conservation.
Agency spokesman David Winchell said state police contacted a department dispatcher
around 6:30 p.m. Thursday seeking forest rangers to head to the scene of
a plane crash in a wooded area near the Lake Placid Airport, just south of the
village. The men on board the Vans RV-10 experimental aircraft had used a cellphone
to call Essex County emergency dispatchers and provide coordinates of the
crash site, Winchell said.
Related Content
MORE: Follow us @EyewitnessNYC
MORE: Contact the WABC-TV New Jersey Bureau
A state police helicopter dispatched from nearby Lake Clear Airport was unable
to reach the crash site because of weather conditions and darkness.
The men's information placed the crash site at Nye Mountain, near the airport.
But by the time two rangers hiked to the location at 11 p.m., officials had determined
they were in the wrong spot because the men's coordinates had been provided
in a format not typically used by environmental department search teams,
Winchell said. Plotting the coordinates in another format placed the actual
crash site about a mile from Whiteface Inn Road, about 2 miles northwest of the
village.
Rangers reached the site around 2 a.m., Winchell said. The men had used extra clothing
and a tarp to stay warm in temperatures that dipped into the single digits,
he said.
Officials identified the men as Michael Oster, 54; Jeff O'Connor, 58; and Frank
Dombroski, 51, all of Westfield in Union County, N.J., just west of New York
City. The men were believed to be staying in the Lake Placid area, but officials
didn't know where, Winchell said.
Attempts by The Associated Press to contact the men were unsuccessful.
The Federal Aviation Administration said the plane departed from Somerset Airport
in Bedminster, N.J, and was headed to Lake Placid Airport when it crashed.
The FAA is investigating what caused the crash.
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394862#394862
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca> |
The pilot posted on VAF, on some of his experiences during this accident.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394866#394866
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RPierce" <rpierce33(at)cox.net> |
http://kathrynaviationnews.com/?p=130333
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394870#394870
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pascal <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
Not under rv10
Please send link
Thanks
On Feb 23, 2013, at 8:27 AM, "Ron B." wrote:
>
> The pilot posted on VAF, on some of his experiences during this accident.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394866#394866
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Lat and Long given to the 911 operator 4 times was 100% accurate. They
failed on the communication to the SAR team. I can't say enough for the
fortitude of the SAR team that hiked in to help us.
We are very upset with the cover up of the errors in the dispatch system. We
will foia the 911 calls to clarify the truth. We spent 10 hours in single
digit temperatures, which was worse than the plane crash. While we greatly
appreciate the efforts of everyone that helped us, we do not appreciate
their misrepresentation of the facts.
My RV-10 took a beating, yet the cabin protected us incredibly well. I am
not in a position to post the details of the crash, as there were many
factors yet to reconcile. The plane performed flawlessly and was not a
factor in this accident.
Best,
Frank
__________________
Frank Dombroski, NJ KSMQ
RV-10 N10FD
-----Original Message-----
From: Pascal
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2013 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 down
Not under rv10
Please send link
Thanks
On Feb 23, 2013, at 8:27 AM, "Ron B." wrote:
>
> The pilot posted on VAF, on some of his experiences during this accident.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394866#394866
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wwc4(at)njit.edu> |
I flew from Boston area to NJ around that same time and while MY entire flight
was in clear air, icing and the approaching Wx was at the top of my concern. Forecast
showed much of the Wx concern was north of my flightpath from OWD to 47N.
The altitude deviations lead me to speculate --and I stress speculate-- that
this was icing related. Glad there were no fatalities.
On a related note, traveling to far flung cities the past two years has brought
my RV-10 construction to a crawl as I can work on it only when I'm back home
on the weekends. At least now at my latest destination, I can commute with my
own aircraft. Any builders in the Boston south shore area (Braintree, Quincy,
Norwood, etc) that would like some help with their construction Mon-Thurs evenings?
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
40237
On Feb 23, 2013, at 14:22, wrote:
>
> Lat and Long given to the 911 operator 4 times was 100% accurate. They failed
on the communication to the SAR team. I can't say enough for the fortitude of
the SAR team that hiked in to help us.
>
> We are very upset with the cover up of the errors in the dispatch system. We
will foia the 911 calls to clarify the truth. We spent 10 hours in single digit
temperatures, which was worse than the plane crash. While we greatly appreciate
the efforts of everyone that helped us, we do not appreciate their misrepresentation
of the facts.
>
> My RV-10 took a beating, yet the cabin protected us incredibly well. I am not
in a position to post the details of the crash, as there were many factors yet
to reconcile. The plane performed flawlessly and was not a factor in this accident.
>
> Best,
> Frank
>
> __________________
> Frank Dombroski, NJ KSMQ
> RV-10 N10FD
>
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Pascal
> Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2013 2:05 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 down
>
>
> Not under rv10
> Please send link
> Thanks
>
>
>
> On Feb 23, 2013, at 8:27 AM, "Ron B." wrote:
>
>>
>> The pilot posted on VAF, on some of his experiences during this accident.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394866#394866
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca> |
It's under, " RV general discussion/news"
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394895#394895
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffling tips |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
jfrjr,
You were right and I was wrong. My squeezer had sat for a bit and wasn't properly
primed. Once I dialed it in, it pulled those rivets with no trouble.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394900#394900
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Here was the wx around that time. Sunset was about 1 hr prior.
Wx 12.7 nm NW of LKP: KSLK 212251Z AUTO 20003KT 5SM BR OVC014 M12/M14 A3012 RMK
AO2 SNB04E18 SLP241 P0000 T11221139 TSNO
Wx 31.4 nm NE of LKP: KPBG 212253Z AUTO 10003KT 8SM -SN BKN035 OVC044 M07/M09 A3020
RMK AO2 SLP233 P0000 T10721094
Night, weather and big hills. AFS SV in the panel. Thankful for a dense Birch and
Spruce forest to absorb some energy. Glad they are skiing this weekend.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394906#394906
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Are we the first RV-10 to land on the ice runway at Alton Bay, NH? The ice
runway season for the last two years has been cut short by unpredictable w
eather, but this year's earlier cold snap got a nice base of the hard stuff
.
Just pick a day with minimal crosswind and it's not too tricky . .. .
On Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0094009/photos/93596491@N08/850343468
7/
Tim Dawson-Townsend
N52KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 on ice |
| From: | Alan Mekler <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Tim,
I'm based close by at KLCI.
Over the years there have been lots of mishaps at Alton Bay so I haven't lan
ded my 10 there. I worry about the differential breaking for steering on ice
. I have flown a 172 in there. With snow banks I worry about the low wing o
n the 10.
Friday was a nice day- light winds.
Did you stop at Shibley's for lunch?
Alan
N668G
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 24, 2013, at 1:09 PM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" wrote:
> Are we the first RV-10 to land on the ice runway at Alton Bay, NH? The ic
e runway season for the last two years has been cut short by unpredictable w
eather, but this year's earlier cold snap got a nice base of the hard stuff.
>
> Just pick a day with minimal crosswind and it's not too tricky . .. .
>
> On Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0094009/photos/93596491@N08/85034346
87/
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
> N52KS
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim <fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com> |
>From a BeechTalk post...
I got the cliff notes of the story from Frank this morning I may not have this
completely correct but here's the gist of what happened. What was most scary
about hearing him tell this to me is I could see getting sucked in to the same
kind of situation. Just like they always tell us, accidents are usually caused
by what seems (at the time) like a a chain of minor events and if you can break
the chain then it doesn't happen. If you don't break it, you look up just
in time to hit the side of a mountain.
Frank told his friends he didn't want to land at night but he knew they were calling
it close. He got two weather briefings via AOPA & Foreflight and also called
FAA for an update on the way to the airport, he also called the airport for
a first hand report he said he was mostly thinking about ice. They got off
on time but fought a 47 kt headwinds and so they got there later than planned
(surprise 1) . He picked up an IFR clearance for the GPS approach. While shooting
the approach he got a visual on the airport (when looking down, he said it
looked like daylight down there) so he canceled (or got cleared for the visual
I'm not sure I've got this part correct). He dropped down below the clouds
and it was much darker than above (surprise 2), he clicked the airport lights
and they wouldn't come on (turns out they have been having troubles with them
but there were no notams) (surprise 3), at the same time one of his the big EFIS
displays wouldn't dim (surprise 4). Frank said he thought he spent maybe 20-30
seconds trying to rectify these problems rather than going missed. He did
decide to go missed but hit the side of the mountain as he was executing and hitting
buttons.
in retrospect Frank said he should have gone missed with ANY problem but these
other factors sucked him into thinking he could quickly fix them and land. In
another friend's words "that's why they call it an "accident" rather than an
"on purpose"".
Franks said it is a miracle to be alive, they hiked to the crash site today and
he said it really hit him how lucky they were. A cut finger, a bruised face and
frostbite is the worst of the physical injuries. He feels terrible about putting
his friends in harms way and it's gonna take some time for him to forgive
himself.
Sent from my iPad
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Accidents happen. Glad they are ok.
Interested to see if terrain aural warnings were on during IFR and/or
synthetic vision.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 down
>
>>From a BeechTalk post...
>
> I got the cliff notes of the story from Frank this morning I may not
> have this completely correct but here's the gist of what happened. What
> was most scary about hearing him tell this to me is I could see getting
> sucked in to the same kind of situation. Just like they always tell us,
> accidents are usually caused by what seems (at the time) like a a chain of
> minor events and if you can break the chain then it doesn't happen. If you
> don't break it, you look up just in time to hit the side of a mountain.
>
> Frank told his friends he didn't want to land at night but he knew they
> were calling it close. He got two weather briefings via AOPA & Foreflight
> and also called FAA for an update on the way to the airport, he also
> called the airport for a first hand report he said he was mostly
> thinking about ice. They got off on time but fought a 47 kt headwinds and
> so they got there later than planned (surprise 1) . He picked up an IFR
> clearance for the GPS approach. While shooting the approach he got a
> visual on the airport (when looking down, he said it looked like daylight
> down there) so he canceled (or got cleared for the visual I'm not sure
> I've got this part correct). He dropped down below the clouds and it was
> much darker than above (surprise 2), he clicked the airport lights and
> they wouldn't come on (turns out they have been having troubles with them
> but there were no notams) (surprise 3), at the same time one of his the
> big EFIS displays wouldn't dim (surprise 4). Frank said!
> he thought he spent maybe 20-30 seconds trying to rectify these problems
> rather than going missed. He did decide to go missed but hit the side of
> the mountain as he was executing and hitting buttons.
>
> in retrospect Frank said he should have gone missed with ANY problem but
> these other factors sucked him into thinking he could quickly fix them and
> land. In another friend's words "that's why they call it an "accident"
> rather than an "on purpose"".
>
> Franks said it is a miracle to be alive, they hiked to the crash site
> today and he said it really hit him how lucky they were. A cut finger, a
> bruised face and frostbite is the worst of the physical injuries. He feels
> terrible about putting his friends in harms way and it's gonna take some
> time for him to forgive himself.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ==
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Accidents happen. Glad they are ok.
Interested to see if terrain aural warnings were on during IFR and/or
synthetic vision.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 down
>
>>From a BeechTalk post...
>
> I got the cliff notes of the story from Frank this morning I may not
> have this completely correct but here's the gist of what happened. What
> was most scary about hearing him tell this to me is I could see getting
> sucked in to the same kind of situation. Just like they always tell us,
> accidents are usually caused by what seems (at the time) like a a chain of
> minor events and if you can break the chain then it doesn't happen. If you
> don't break it, you look up just in time to hit the side of a mountain.
>
> Frank told his friends he didn't want to land at night but he knew they
> were calling it close. He got two weather briefings via AOPA & Foreflight
> and also called FAA for an update on the way to the airport, he also
> called the airport for a first hand report he said he was mostly
> thinking about ice. They got off on time but fought a 47 kt headwinds and
> so they got there later than planned (surprise 1) . He picked up an IFR
> clearance for the GPS approach. While shooting the approach he got a
> visual on the airport (when looking down, he said it looked like daylight
> down there) so he canceled (or got cleared for the visual I'm not sure
> I've got this part correct). He dropped down below the clouds and it was
> much darker than above (surprise 2), he clicked the airport lights and
> they wouldn't come on (turns out they have been having troubles with them
> but there were no notams) (surprise 3), at the same time one of his the
> big EFIS displays wouldn't dim (surprise 4). Frank said!
> he thought he spent maybe 20-30 seconds trying to rectify these problems
> rather than going missed. He did decide to go missed but hit the side of
> the mountain as he was executing and hitting buttons.
>
> in retrospect Frank said he should have gone missed with ANY problem but
> these other factors sucked him into thinking he could quickly fix them and
> land. In another friend's words "that's why they call it an "accident"
> rather than an "on purpose"".
>
> Franks said it is a miracle to be alive, they hiked to the crash site
> today and he said it really hit him how lucky they were. A cut finger, a
> bruised face and frostbite is the worst of the physical injuries. He feels
> terrible about putting his friends in harms way and it's gonna take some
> time for him to forgive himself.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ==
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Accidents happen. Glad they are ok.
Interested to see if terrain aural warnings were on during IFR and/or
synthetic vision.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 down
>
>>From a BeechTalk post...
>
> I got the cliff notes of the story from Frank this morning I may not
> have this completely correct but here's the gist of what happened. What
> was most scary about hearing him tell this to me is I could see getting
> sucked in to the same kind of situation. Just like they always tell us,
> accidents are usually caused by what seems (at the time) like a a chain of
> minor events and if you can break the chain then it doesn't happen. If you
> don't break it, you look up just in time to hit the side of a mountain.
>
> Frank told his friends he didn't want to land at night but he knew they
> were calling it close. He got two weather briefings via AOPA & Foreflight
> and also called FAA for an update on the way to the airport, he also
> called the airport for a first hand report he said he was mostly
> thinking about ice. They got off on time but fought a 47 kt headwinds and
> so they got there later than planned (surprise 1) . He picked up an IFR
> clearance for the GPS approach. While shooting the approach he got a
> visual on the airport (when looking down, he said it looked like daylight
> down there) so he canceled (or got cleared for the visual I'm not sure
> I've got this part correct). He dropped down below the clouds and it was
> much darker than above (surprise 2), he clicked the airport lights and
> they wouldn't come on (turns out they have been having troubles with them
> but there were no notams) (surprise 3), at the same time one of his the
> big EFIS displays wouldn't dim (surprise 4). Frank said!
> he thought he spent maybe 20-30 seconds trying to rectify these problems
> rather than going missed. He did decide to go missed but hit the side of
> the mountain as he was executing and hitting buttons.
>
> in retrospect Frank said he should have gone missed with ANY problem but
> these other factors sucked him into thinking he could quickly fix them and
> land. In another friend's words "that's why they call it an "accident"
> rather than an "on purpose"".
>
> Franks said it is a miracle to be alive, they hiked to the crash site
> today and he said it really hit him how lucky they were. A cut finger, a
> bruised face and frostbite is the worst of the physical injuries. He feels
> terrible about putting his friends in harms way and it's gonna take some
> time for him to forgive himself.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ==
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
CFIT on a missed approach and walking away is in the miracle category.
Not that there is such a thing as a good accident, but I am glad that everyone
is okay, and I am selfishly relieved that there were no apparent deficiencies
in the aircraft or its design.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394985#394985
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hey all
I started to fabricate the fuel lines in the tunnel etc today and where I
attached the line to the firewall, I recently bought a AN832 steel bulkhead
fitting (straight) instead of an AN837 bulkhead fitting (45 degree). For
those that have installed the fuel line to the engine, can I get away with
the straight fitting or should I return it for the 45 degree fitting? I
intend to mount the fuel flow transducer under the engine (if that helps).
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
| Subject: | Ice runway videos, for those interested |
Ice Runway landing and takeoff.
The "Navy landing" is accentuated by the handheld nature of the camera . .
.!
http://youtu.be/27xWtC0GxSw
http://youtu.be/cVSJzsmg0Fo
Tim
N52KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice runway videos, for those interested |
Cool videos.
Did you have to use your drag chute? ;)
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
To: RV10-List Digest Server
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2013 7:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Ice runway videos, for those interested
Ice Runway landing and takeoff.
The "Navy landing" is accentuated by the handheld nature of the camera
. . .!
http://youtu.be/27xWtC0GxSw
http://youtu.be/cVSJzsmg0Fo
Tim
N52KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
You should be OK but it might mean getting something other than the
hose provided by Vans (Bonaco could make one). You can get a custom
hose with a 45* or 90* fitting built in to the end. You did good by
changing the provided aluminum fitting to steel.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 3:56 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hey all
>
> I started to fabricate the fuel lines in the tunnel etc today and where I
> attached the line to the firewall, I recently bought a AN832 steel bulkhead
> fitting (straight) instead of an AN837 bulkhead fitting (45 degree). For
> those that have installed the fuel line to the engine, can I get away with
> the straight fitting or should I return it for the 45 degree fitting? I
> intend to mount the fuel flow transducer under the engine (if that helps).
>
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
The reason for the 45 degree fitting or 45 degree hose end is because
the engine mount and nose gear isolators are right to the left of and in
front of that fitting. The angle allows the hose to loop out and around
the engine mount and isolators before heading on its way to the engine
driven fuel pump.
-Sean #40303 (adding controls and fuel lines to engine)
On 2/25/13 9:20 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> You should be OK but it might mean getting something other than the
> hose provided by Vans (Bonaco could make one). You can get a custom
> hose with a 45* or 90* fitting built in to the end. You did good by
> changing the provided aluminum fitting to steel.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 3:56 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>> Hey all
>>
>> I started to fabricate the fuel lines in the tunnel etc today and where I
>> attached the line to the firewall, I recently bought a AN832 steel bulkhead
>> fitting (straight) instead of an AN837 bulkhead fitting (45 degree). For
>> those that have installed the fuel line to the engine, can I get away with
>> the straight fitting or should I return it for the 45 degree fitting? I
>> intend to mount the fuel flow transducer under the engine (if that helps).
>>
>> Thx, Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Window tint film |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Anybody have a source for window tint film that will work on plexi?
I know it exits, I just haven't found any. Our old Socata had it on top halves
of the windows and it worked fine. Unfortunately, the FBO that had it installed
is OTS so I can't get a reference from them.
I've seen Cirri and Velocities with it, so it must exist somewhere.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395057#395057
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve T <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com> |
Also, take a look at www.kitplanehoses.com.
We have online pricing so you can "build" and order you hose directly from our
website. Our hoses are all conductive Teflon with stainless ends. And, they
are a true 37degree aviation flare.
If you have any questions, please go to
Www.kitplanehoses.com or email us at
Steve(at)aircraftspecialty.com
Have a great evening
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2013, at 21:20, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> You should be OK but it might mean getting something other than the
> hose provided by Vans (Bonaco could make one). You can get a custom
> hose with a 45* or 90* fitting built in to the end. You did good by
> changing the provided aluminum fitting to steel.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 3:56 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>> Hey all
>>
>> I started to fabricate the fuel lines in the tunnel etc today and where I
>> attached the line to the firewall, I recently bought a AN832 steel bulkhead
>> fitting (straight) instead of an AN837 bulkhead fitting (45 degree). For
>> those that have installed the fuel line to the engine, can I get away with
>> the straight fitting or should I return it for the 45 degree fitting? I
>> intend to mount the fuel flow transducer under the engine (if that helps).
>>
>> Thx, Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Sean/Dave, thx for the info. I'm heading to Aircraft Spruce today and will
take the straight fitting with me and see if they will exchange it. For
the record, I did not buy Vans engine hoses, so the custom hose option is
still open.
Regards, Rick
On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 10:46 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> The reason for the 45 degree fitting or 45 degree hose end is because the
> engine mount and nose gear isolators are right to the left of and in front
> of that fitting. The angle allows the hose to loop out and around the
> engine mount and isolators before heading on its way to the engine driven
> fuel pump.
>
> -Sean #40303 (adding controls and fuel lines to engine)
>
> On 2/25/13 9:20 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> gmail.com >
>>
>> You should be OK but it might mean getting something other than the
>> hose provided by Vans (Bonaco could make one). You can get a custom
>> hose with a 45* or 90* fitting built in to the end. You did good by
>> changing the provided aluminum fitting to steel.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 3:56 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all
>>>
>>> I started to fabricate the fuel lines in the tunnel etc today and where I
>>> attached the line to the firewall, I recently bought a AN832 steel
>>> bulkhead
>>> fitting (straight) instead of an AN837 bulkhead fitting (45 degree). For
>>> those that have installed the fuel line to the engine, can I get away
>>> with
>>> the straight fitting or should I return it for the 45 degree fitting? I
>>> intend to mount the fuel flow transducer under the engine (if that
>>> helps).
>>>
>>> Thx, Rick
>>> #40956
>>> Southampton, Ont
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Window tint film |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
=46rom my uncle that does window tinting, re plexiglass tinting:
Call Johnson Window films 800 448 8468. It will only form in one direction n
ot two if I remember right.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2013, at 10:56 PM, "woxofswa" wrote:
>
> Anybody have a source for window tint film that will work on plexi?
> I know it exits, I just haven't found any. Our old Socata had it on top ha
lves of the windows and it worked fine. Unfortunately, the FBO that had it i
nstalled is OTS so I can't get a reference from them.
> I've seen Cirri and Velocities with it, so it must exist somewhere.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing k
it and FWF kit in progress.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395057#395057
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Window tint film |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Thanks Jesse,
I called them. They don't have any product that will work but they did steer me
towards a static cling product that might.
I'm just at the exploratory stage right now and don't need it for months, but I
will report back.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395125#395125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Rick,
Here is how it looks coming out of the firewall to the pump
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395147#395147
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2522_859.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Have been doing a little research on pc680 & firewall mounting. The pc680mj is
rated for temps of 176f vs 680 at 140f. The tray that hawker sells for the
680 only, provides nice protection though. Not sure if that would increase its
rating or what real firewall temps would be behind baffling but within exhaust
piping area . I have a smaller 7ah battery on my 6 with the sd8 alternator
mounted high in the center of the firewall but usually change that one out every
other year. I guess real question is what are real world firewall temps on
the 10?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395185#395185
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC925L & PC680 mounting |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
They run as high as 190 F on a hot summer day at the lower firewall
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395223#395223
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Aha, thx. I got to Aircraft Spruce @ CYFD yesterday and switched the
fitting I had for the 45 degree one. Glad I did by the looks of your
photo.
So the fuel route is fuel pump, transducer, distribution spyder,
cylinders? Not sure thats correct?
Rick
On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 10:22 PM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
> Rick,
> Here is how it looks coming out of the firewall to the pump
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395147#395147
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2522_859.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Rick,
The routing is
engine driven fuel pump--fuel servo--FF transducer--spider--cylinders
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395239#395239
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
firewall, fuel pump, servo, distributor, injectors. You can insert the
transducer either between the pump and servo, or between the servo and the
distributor. EI, who makes the transducer has it between the pump and the
servo on their STC for certified planes, but several folks here have had
success between servo and distributor, which is normal location for
Continental fuel injection with fuel return line, that Bendix FI does not
have.
On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 6:49 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Aha, thx. I got to Aircraft Spruce @ CYFD yesterday and switched the
> fitting I had for the 45 degree one. Glad I did by the looks of your
> photo.
>
> So the fuel route is fuel pump, transducer, distribution spyder,
> cylinders? Not sure thats correct?
>
> Rick
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BC" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Obstruction behind instrument panel |
It appears that certain large screen EFIS will not fit behind the instrument
panel due to the several structural elements that are in the way. Has anyone
come up with a solution or a method for cutting these down without
compromising the airframe?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Obstruction behind instrument panel |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Vans recommends rather strongly that the triangular braces not be cut. Some
certainly have done it and reinforced with aluminum angle, but no idea how
sound that might be.
No clearance issues with my Dynon Skyview 10" screens.
On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 9:57 PM, BC wrote:
> It appears that certain large screen EFIS will not fit behind the
> instrument panel due to the several structural elements that are in the
> way. Has anyone come up with a solution or a method for cutting these down
> without compromising the airframe?****
>
> ** **
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Obstruction behind instrument panel |
The Incredibly Magnificent One's (TIM O) website has what you're looking for:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050610/index.html
Did anyone notice how well the upper fuselage area held together in
the Lake Placid accident? He had big AFS screens so he almost
certainly had to modify these ribs. If I had to leave one intact, I'd
make it the center one. Look at the pictures of the center post in
the accident photos--it's pretty clearly bent.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 8:57 PM, BC wrote:
> It appears that certain large screen EFIS will not fit behind the instrument
> panel due to the several structural elements that are in the way. Has anyone
> come up with a solution or a method for cutting these down without
> compromising the airframe?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Obstruction behind instrument panel |
I just trimmed the small end back a little to fit MGL Odysseys.
Linn
On 2/27/2013 11:57 PM, BC wrote:
>
> It appears that certain large screen EFIS will not fit behind the
> instrument panel due to the several structural elements that are in
> the way. Has anyone come up with a solution or a method for cutting
> these down without compromising the airframe?
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Good grief! Press quotes pilot's wife as saying "Every piece is built by Cessna
or Boeing."
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395253#395253
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
I can't imagine the press would ever screw up a quote.
My guess is the wife said something along the lines of "Every piece is
built (just like they do at) Boeing or Cessna.
On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 11:57 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Good grief! Press quotes pilot's wife as saying "Every piece is built by
> Cessna or Boeing."
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395253#395253
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Obstruction behind instrument panel |
It's very common to modify the structure behind the panel within reason.
The ribs and sub panel are all candidates for modification, but that doesn't
mean you just "remove material" and call it good. With any aircraft
structure from a cub to a 747, if you remove material you traditionally need
to add back material in order to give said structure it's load bearing
capacity. If you remove in one place, you add in another. There are a
number of ways to modify the ribs and still keep the structural integrity of
the entire assembly in place, but it's also not a one size fit's all
solution. The center rib from where the center brace attaches is a place
that is difficult to do any reasonable modification. That said, all of the
ribs between the sub panel and the main panel can be changed in differing
ways (depending on your situation) to allow for avionics, efises, etc.. to
be installed and still keep everything good. I'd encourage you to decide
what is going in there, then decide what/where you need to modify and
consult with someone before just jumping in. That doesn't mean you have to
hire a structural engineer, but have a 2nd set of eyes from someone who
knows structure pretty well and you'll be good!
Just my 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BC
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 10:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Obstruction behind instrument panel
It appears that certain large screen EFIS will not fit behind the instrument
panel due to the several structural elements that are in the way. Has anyone
come up with a solution or a method for cutting these down without
compromising the airframe?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Can anybody offer insight into flying into Granby, CO in the summer?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Well, the passes from the west are over 10,000 ft, from the east you are
looking at over 13,000. While it might be ok for RV-10, it violates my
personal high altitude airport general rule of runway length equals
elevation or better(think twice and calculate carefully if that condition
isn't met). I've been in and out of Steamboat Springs and Aspen, but not
Granby.
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 4:50 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Can anybody offer insight into flying into Granby, CO in the summer?
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Gabrielson <m.gabrielson(at)sbcglobal.net> |
My Dad lives in Colorado and does not fly his 182 into Granby for reasons
similar to Kelly's. As an alternative, Kremmling Colorado just to the west of
there offers more margin and although the approach is kind of around a hill it's
not too bad.
Matt Gabrielson
________________________________
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, February 28, 2013 9:06:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Granby, CO
Well, the passes from the west are over 10,000 ft, from the east you are looking
at over 13,000. While it might be ok for RV-10, it violates my personal high
altitude airport general rule of runway length equals elevation or better(think
twice and calculate carefully if that condition isn't met). I've been in and out
of Steamboat Springs and Aspen, but not Granby.
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 4:50 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>Can anybody offer insight into flying into Granby, CO in the summer?
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>www.mavericklsa.com
>C: 352-427-0285
>O: 352-465-4545
>F: 815-377-3694
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>==========
>arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>==========
>http://forums.matronics.com
>==========
>le, List Admin.
>="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
What is the-consensus-on the choice for heated pitot? I am getting clos
e to paint and want to install before I do. Thanks-=0ABruce 151BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Obstruction behind instrument panel |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I was able to avoid touching the ribs, but I used page 41-3 to the maximum. As
Stein said, it takes planning and compromise.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395351#395351
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
>From personal experience I would not buy the Gretz again. The first one
melted and the second one I have now is cracked. My panel has the
labeling and holes drilled permenantly for the status lights so hard to
change to a different pitot at this point.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 8:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heated pitot
What is the consensus on the choice for heated pitot? I am getting
close to paint and want to install before I do. Thanks
Bruce 151BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Dynon SkyView. You get a heated pitot and AOA in one - for the same price
as just a heated pitot. If you're not using SkyView EFIS, then never mind.
The mount however is applicable to other pitot options - so perhaps just
picking the mount for now solves your "get to paint" issue. I suggest
however painting the wings and mount separate. Dynon recommends a mount
like the Gretz:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/in/pitot_accessories/gretzbrackets.php
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heated pitot
What is the consensus on the choice for heated pitot? I am getting
close to paint and want to install before I do. Thanks
Bruce 151BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Gretz and dynon are probably the most popular. Both use the same mount, wh
ich is all you should need for paint.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 1, 2013, at 10:14 AM, Bruce Johnson wrote
:
What is the consensus on the choice for heated pitot? I am getting c
lose to paint and want to install before I do. Thanks
Bruce 151BJ
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Obstruction behind instrument panel |
John
What do you exactly mean by using page 41-3 to the maximum?
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: sexta-feira, 1 de Mar=E7o de 2013 15:38
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Obstruction behind instrument panel
--> < johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
I was able to avoid touching the ribs, but I used page 41-3 to the
maximum.
As Stein said, it takes planning and compromise.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395351#395351>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395351#395351
List
7-Day
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
It's high but I can't imagine the 10 having a problem getting out of a 5000 f
oot runway even at 8200 feet. The hottest recorded temp was 89 f in July 200
2. Sounds like taking off to the east is tougher. I would try it in the summ
er but would need to look into it more for max takeoff weight.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 28, 2013, at 18:57, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Well, the passes from the west are over 10,000 ft, from the east you are l
ooking at over 13,000. While it might be ok for RV-10, it violates my person
al high altitude airport general rule of runway length equals elevation or b
etter(think twice and calculate carefully if that condition isn't met). I've
been in and out of Steamboat Springs and Aspen, but not Granby.
>
> On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 4:50 PM, Jesse Saint wro
te:
>>
>> Can anybody offer insight into flying into Granby, CO in the summer?
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> www.mavericklsa.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> O: 352-465-4545
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Obstruction behind instrument panel |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt wrote:
> John
>
> What do you exactly mean by using page 41-3 to the maximum?
>
> Carlos
>
> --
My Radio Stack is immediately to the right of the center brace, and my VP-200 is
just to the left. I got them as close as I could but still using Van's bracing
suggestions on 41-3.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395363#395363
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
Thanks for the input, -I will get the mount for paint. Just curious does
the Gretz still work with the crack?=0A=0A=0A______________________________
__=0A From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASe
nt: Friday, March 1, 2013 8:49 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Heated pitot=0A
=0A=0A =0AFrom personal experience I would not buy the Gretz =0Aagain.-
The first one melted and the second one I have now is =0Acracked.- My pan
el has the labeling and holes drilled permenantly for the =0Astatus lights
so hard to change to a different pitot at this point.=0A----- Original Mess
age ----- =0A>From: Bruce Johnson =0A>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A>Sent:
Friday, March 01, 2013 8:14 =0AAM=0A>Subject: RV10-List: Heated pitot=0A>
=0A>=0A>What is the-consensus-on the choice for heated pitot? I am ge
tting close to paint and want to install before I do. Thanks-=0A>Bruce
151BJ=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.m
atronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com">htt
p://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">h
=====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
So far it does work with the crack. I've used it probably ten times in
300 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated pitot
Thanks for the input, I will get the mount for paint. Just curious
does the Gretz still work with the crack?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2013 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated pitot
From personal experience I would not buy the Gretz again. The first
one melted and the second one I have now is cracked. My panel has the
labeling and holes drilled permenantly for the status lights so hard to
change to a different pitot at this point.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 8:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heated pitot
What is the consensus on the choice for heated pitot? I am getting
close to paint and want to install before I do. Thanks
Bruce 151BJ
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matro===================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
The Dynon unit works pretty well. I like the "smart" aspect of the heating
unit. Besides its was cheaper. :-)
From: sean(at)braunandco.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated pitot
Date: Fri=2C 1 Mar 2013 11:16:47 -0700
So far it does work with the crack. I've used
it probably ten times in 300 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From:
Bruce Johnson
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday=2C March 01=2C 2013 11:01
AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated
pitot
Thanks for the input=2C I will get the mount for paint. Just
curious does the Gretz still work with the crack?
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Sent: Friday=2C March 1=2C 2013 8:49
AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List:
Heated pitot
From personal experience I would not buy the
Gretz again. The first one melted and the second one I have now is
cracked. My panel has the labeling and holes drilled permenantly for the
status lights so hard to change to a different pitot at this
point.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce
Johnson
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday=2C March 01=2C 2013 8:14
AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heated pitot
What
is the consensus on
the choice for heated pitot? I am getting close to paint and want to in
stall
before I do. Thanks
Bruce
151BJ
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matro===================
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
No issues with Getz 460 hours.
Dick Sipp
From: Bruce Johnson
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 10:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heated pitot
What is the consensus on the choice for heated pitot? I am getting close
to paint and want to install before I do. Thanks
Bruce 151BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I have the Dynon. Cannot say how well the heat works as I have never had the 10
in icing conditions. As mentioned it has a temperature controller so you can
just leave it on all the time if you wish. I have a Dynon D6 as backup efis and,
with the Dynon pitot, it provides a visual and audio angle of attack warning.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395376#395376
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Last weekend I took some folks on demo rides. All are -10 builders,
not yet flying.
On one flight, I had one big guy in the back seat. My CG range is 8.4
to 16.8 (inches aft of the wing leading edge). My CG on takeoff was
14.4--I ran the number before we departed because I knew the CG was
"aft-ish"--and the weight was 2614 lbs. Years ago during phase 1 we
loaded the plane at aft CG, max gross, and did some stalls. I don't
recall anything strange at all about those maneuvers.
First, I demonstrated an approach stall, which I've done many times.
My normal recovery is just to add a little power, stick neutral if
necessary, and the plane just flys out. On the first stall, that's
just how it went.
Of course then it was time for a little "Watch this!"...
Actually, I wanted to demonstrate the AOA audio warning,
"Angle-Angle-Push", which was kind of faint on the first stall. So I
let the stall develop further, keeping wings level with the rudder.
The wings rocked a bit but nothing serious. The nose stayed straight
ahead. Then, the nose pitched WAY down. I added power to break the
stall and fly it out but there was no change. It felt like we were
descending, not flying. It felt like we were about 45* nose down, but
the EFIS logs didn't capture anything that extreme. I was concerned
about entering a spin. So was the guy in the front seat--he said so
as it was happening...I added more power, stick neutral, and still the
nose was pointed down. I kept the wings more or less level but at
this point things seemed out of the ordinary so I got more agressive
with the controls. I pushed forward, adding more power. The plane
then seemed to fly, and I seemed to be going pretty fast, but I didn't
look at the airspeed. I pulled up gently and the controls eventually
started feeling normal again. The EFIS logs showed the whole event
lasted less than 10 seconds--two data captures--but it sure seemed
longer. We lost about 300 feet.
I spoke to another -10 owner who has a lot of acro and formation
experience. He said, yeah, it'll do that...he concurred that from a
deep stall, an RV-10 requires extra effort to break it. That's
probably not a huge surprise if you think about it and expect it, but
in this case it gave me (and unfortunately my passengers) a little
concern.
I'd be interested to hear if others have had similar experiences, and
if anyone has an explanation for what's going on aerodynamically.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Nice job getting out of that situation, Dave. Glad you are still with us!
John J
On Mar 2, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> Last weekend I took some folks on demo rides. All are -10 builders,
> not yet flying.
>
> On one flight, I had one big guy in the back seat. My CG range is 8.4
> to 16.8 (inches aft of the wing leading edge). My CG on takeoff was
> 14.4--I ran the number before we departed because I knew the CG was
> "aft-ish"--and the weight was 2614 lbs. Years ago during phase 1 we
> loaded the plane at aft CG, max gross, and did some stalls. I don't
> recall anything strange at all about those maneuvers.
>
> First, I demonstrated an approach stall, which I've done many times.
> My normal recovery is just to add a little power, stick neutral if
> necessary, and the plane just flys out. On the first stall, that's
> just how it went.
>
> Of course then it was time for a little "Watch this!"...
>
> Actually, I wanted to demonstrate the AOA audio warning,
> "Angle-Angle-Push", which was kind of faint on the first stall. So I
> let the stall develop further, keeping wings level with the rudder.
> The wings rocked a bit but nothing serious. The nose stayed straight
> ahead. Then, the nose pitched WAY down. I added power to break the
> stall and fly it out but there was no change. It felt like we were
> descending, not flying. It felt like we were about 45* nose down, but
> the EFIS logs didn't capture anything that extreme. I was concerned
> about entering a spin. So was the guy in the front seat--he said so
> as it was happening...I added more power, stick neutral, and still the
> nose was pointed down. I kept the wings more or less level but at
> this point things seemed out of the ordinary so I got more agressive
> with the controls. I pushed forward, adding more power. The plane
> then seemed to fly, and I seemed to be going pretty fast, but I didn't
> look at the airspeed. I pulled up gently and the controls eventually
> started feeling normal again. The EFIS logs showed the whole event
> lasted less than 10 seconds--two data captures--but it sure seemed
> longer. We lost about 300 feet.
>
> I spoke to another -10 owner who has a lot of acro and formation
> experience. He said, yeah, it'll do that...he concurred that from a
> deep stall, an RV-10 requires extra effort to break it. That's
> probably not a huge surprise if you think about it and expect it, but
> in this case it gave me (and unfortunately my passengers) a little
> concern.
>
> I'd be interested to hear if others have had similar experiences, and
> if anyone has an explanation for what's going on aerodynamically.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Well, I didn't mean to make it seem super dangerous...it wasn't like I
was seeing scenes from my childhood or anything. It got my attention
and it may have resolved itself after a few more seconds--I don't
know. I didn't feel terribly out of control or anything but the plane
didn't respond exactly like I expected it too. Unless I hear a reason
not to, I'm gonna try it again, but this time expect a slower
recovery.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Mar 2, 2013 at 9:48 AM, John Jessen wrote:
>
> Nice job getting out of that situation, Dave. Glad you are still with us!
>
> John J
>
> On Mar 2, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>>
>> Last weekend I took some folks on demo rides. All are -10 builders,
>> not yet flying.
>>
>> On one flight, I had one big guy in the back seat. My CG range is 8.4
>> to 16.8 (inches aft of the wing leading edge). My CG on takeoff was
>> 14.4--I ran the number before we departed because I knew the CG was
>> "aft-ish"--and the weight was 2614 lbs. Years ago during phase 1 we
>> loaded the plane at aft CG, max gross, and did some stalls. I don't
>> recall anything strange at all about those maneuvers.
>>
>> First, I demonstrated an approach stall, which I've done many times.
>> My normal recovery is just to add a little power, stick neutral if
>> necessary, and the plane just flys out. On the first stall, that's
>> just how it went.
>>
>> Of course then it was time for a little "Watch this!"...
>>
>> Actually, I wanted to demonstrate the AOA audio warning,
>> "Angle-Angle-Push", which was kind of faint on the first stall. So I
>> let the stall develop further, keeping wings level with the rudder.
>> The wings rocked a bit but nothing serious. The nose stayed straight
>> ahead. Then, the nose pitched WAY down. I added power to break the
>> stall and fly it out but there was no change. It felt like we were
>> descending, not flying. It felt like we were about 45* nose down, but
>> the EFIS logs didn't capture anything that extreme. I was concerned
>> about entering a spin. So was the guy in the front seat--he said so
>> as it was happening...I added more power, stick neutral, and still the
>> nose was pointed down. I kept the wings more or less level but at
>> this point things seemed out of the ordinary so I got more agressive
>> with the controls. I pushed forward, adding more power. The plane
>> then seemed to fly, and I seemed to be going pretty fast, but I didn't
>> look at the airspeed. I pulled up gently and the controls eventually
>> started feeling normal again. The EFIS logs showed the whole event
>> lasted less than 10 seconds--two data captures--but it sure seemed
>> longer. We lost about 300 feet.
>>
>> I spoke to another -10 owner who has a lot of acro and formation
>> experience. He said, yeah, it'll do that...he concurred that from a
>> deep stall, an RV-10 requires extra effort to break it. That's
>> probably not a huge surprise if you think about it and expect it, but
>> in this case it gave me (and unfortunately my passengers) a little
>> concern.
>>
>> I'd be interested to hear if others have had similar experiences, and
>> if anyone has an explanation for what's going on aerodynamically.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
I've seen something odd like this once too. The situation was a bit
different though from the sounds of it. Would you say that the
elevator felt somewhat aerodynamically "disconnected" during this?
The experience I had, you could hear the prop pitch change as it
sounded like it quit biting the air the same, and the pitch force
got real "sloppy", like you could have pulled or pushed and not
gotten a lot of response at all. But, going into standard stall
recovery mode automatically, I shoved the stick forward and
it came right out of it. The whole thing lasted only maybe 2 seconds,
but when you feel something like that you know how time goes slowly.
At any rate, I think I was just so deep in the stall at the time
that probably the wing wash interrupted the flow over the horizontal
stabilizer, or something like that. So the elevator lost some
effectiveness. At least that's what I attributed it to.
It wasn't quite a normal flight situation for me, so I've been
thinking of some day trying to recreate it up high, but I'm not
sure if I could, without the added weight of filled seats...so
I'm not sure if I'll bother. The airplane behaved pretty well
through it, so I was happy for that.
Tim
On 3/2/2013 11:35 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> Last weekend I took some folks on demo rides. All are -10 builders,
> not yet flying.
>
> On one flight, I had one big guy in the back seat. My CG range is 8.4
> to 16.8 (inches aft of the wing leading edge). My CG on takeoff was
> 14.4--I ran the number before we departed because I knew the CG was
> "aft-ish"--and the weight was 2614 lbs. Years ago during phase 1 we
> loaded the plane at aft CG, max gross, and did some stalls. I don't
> recall anything strange at all about those maneuvers.
>
> First, I demonstrated an approach stall, which I've done many times.
> My normal recovery is just to add a little power, stick neutral if
> necessary, and the plane just flys out. On the first stall, that's
> just how it went.
>
> Of course then it was time for a little "Watch this!"...
>
> Actually, I wanted to demonstrate the AOA audio warning,
> "Angle-Angle-Push", which was kind of faint on the first stall. So I
> let the stall develop further, keeping wings level with the rudder.
> The wings rocked a bit but nothing serious. The nose stayed straight
> ahead. Then, the nose pitched WAY down. I added power to break the
> stall and fly it out but there was no change. It felt like we were
> descending, not flying. It felt like we were about 45* nose down, but
> the EFIS logs didn't capture anything that extreme. I was concerned
> about entering a spin. So was the guy in the front seat--he said so
> as it was happening...I added more power, stick neutral, and still the
> nose was pointed down. I kept the wings more or less level but at
> this point things seemed out of the ordinary so I got more agressive
> with the controls. I pushed forward, adding more power. The plane
> then seemed to fly, and I seemed to be going pretty fast, but I didn't
> look at the airspeed. I pulled up gently and the controls eventually
> started feeling normal again. The EFIS logs showed the whole event
> lasted less than 10 seconds--two data captures--but it sure seemed
> longer. We lost about 300 feet.
>
> I spoke to another -10 owner who has a lot of acro and formation
> experience. He said, yeah, it'll do that...he concurred that from a
> deep stall, an RV-10 requires extra effort to break it. That's
> probably not a huge surprise if you think about it and expect it, but
> in this case it gave me (and unfortunately my passengers) a little
> concern.
>
> I'd be interested to hear if others have had similar experiences, and
> if anyone has an explanation for what's going on aerodynamically.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I was up experimenting with the stall in my 10. Mine is at the fwd cg with me alone
so keep that in mind. I stalled and kept the stick full aft. The plane just
buffeted and still had good aileron control. I stomped on the rudder both directions
with full aft stick and the plane just mushed along. It would not enter
a spin. Like I said I am close to the fwd CG. I have a video of this I'll
try to post later.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2013, at 10:02, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I've seen something odd like this once too. The situation was a bit
> different though from the sounds of it. Would you say that the
> elevator felt somewhat aerodynamically "disconnected" during this?
> The experience I had, you could hear the prop pitch change as it
> sounded like it quit biting the air the same, and the pitch force
> got real "sloppy", like you could have pulled or pushed and not
> gotten a lot of response at all. But, going into standard stall
> recovery mode automatically, I shoved the stick forward and
> it came right out of it. The whole thing lasted only maybe 2 seconds,
> but when you feel something like that you know how time goes slowly.
> At any rate, I think I was just so deep in the stall at the time
> that probably the wing wash interrupted the flow over the horizontal
> stabilizer, or something like that. So the elevator lost some
> effectiveness. At least that's what I attributed it to.
> It wasn't quite a normal flight situation for me, so I've been
> thinking of some day trying to recreate it up high, but I'm not
> sure if I could, without the added weight of filled seats...so
> I'm not sure if I'll bother. The airplane behaved pretty well
> through it, so I was happy for that.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 3/2/2013 11:35 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>> Last weekend I took some folks on demo rides. All are -10 builders,
>> not yet flying.
>>
>> On one flight, I had one big guy in the back seat. My CG range is 8.4
>> to 16.8 (inches aft of the wing leading edge). My CG on takeoff was
>> 14.4--I ran the number before we departed because I knew the CG was
>> "aft-ish"--and the weight was 2614 lbs. Years ago during phase 1 we
>> loaded the plane at aft CG, max gross, and did some stalls. I don't
>> recall anything strange at all about those maneuvers.
>>
>> First, I demonstrated an approach stall, which I've done many times.
>> My normal recovery is just to add a little power, stick neutral if
>> necessary, and the plane just flys out. On the first stall, that's
>> just how it went.
>>
>> Of course then it was time for a little "Watch this!"...
>>
>> Actually, I wanted to demonstrate the AOA audio warning,
>> "Angle-Angle-Push", which was kind of faint on the first stall. So I
>> let the stall develop further, keeping wings level with the rudder.
>> The wings rocked a bit but nothing serious. The nose stayed straight
>> ahead. Then, the nose pitched WAY down. I added power to break the
>> stall and fly it out but there was no change. It felt like we were
>> descending, not flying. It felt like we were about 45* nose down, but
>> the EFIS logs didn't capture anything that extreme. I was concerned
>> about entering a spin. So was the guy in the front seat--he said so
>> as it was happening...I added more power, stick neutral, and still the
>> nose was pointed down. I kept the wings more or less level but at
>> this point things seemed out of the ordinary so I got more agressive
>> with the controls. I pushed forward, adding more power. The plane
>> then seemed to fly, and I seemed to be going pretty fast, but I didn't
>> look at the airspeed. I pulled up gently and the controls eventually
>> started feeling normal again. The EFIS logs showed the whole event
>> lasted less than 10 seconds--two data captures--but it sure seemed
>> longer. We lost about 300 feet.
>>
>> I spoke to another -10 owner who has a lot of acro and formation
>> experience. He said, yeah, it'll do that...he concurred that from a
>> deep stall, an RV-10 requires extra effort to break it. That's
>> probably not a huge surprise if you think about it and expect it, but
>> in this case it gave me (and unfortunately my passengers) a little
>> concern.
>>
>> I'd be interested to hear if others have had similar experiences, and
>> if anyone has an explanation for what's going on aerodynamically.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Sounds good! I'll pencil it in.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
President - SteinAir, Inc.
651-460-6955
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened
here?)
I was up experimenting with the stall in my 10. Mine is at the fwd cg with
me alone so keep that in mind. I stalled and kept the stick full aft. The
plane just buffeted and still had good aileron control. I stomped on the
rudder both directions with full aft stick and the plane just mushed along.
It would not enter a spin. Like I said I am close to the fwd CG. I have a
video of this I'll try to post later.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2013, at 10:02, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I've seen something odd like this once too. The situation was a bit
> different though from the sounds of it. Would you say that the
> elevator felt somewhat aerodynamically "disconnected" during this?
> The experience I had, you could hear the prop pitch change as it
> sounded like it quit biting the air the same, and the pitch force got
> real "sloppy", like you could have pulled or pushed and not gotten a
> lot of response at all. But, going into standard stall recovery mode
> automatically, I shoved the stick forward and it came right out of it.
> The whole thing lasted only maybe 2 seconds, but when you feel
> something like that you know how time goes slowly.
> At any rate, I think I was just so deep in the stall at the time that
> probably the wing wash interrupted the flow over the horizontal
> stabilizer, or something like that. So the elevator lost some
> effectiveness. At least that's what I attributed it to.
> It wasn't quite a normal flight situation for me, so I've been
> thinking of some day trying to recreate it up high, but I'm not sure
> if I could, without the added weight of filled seats...so I'm not sure
> if I'll bother. The airplane behaved pretty well through it, so I was
> happy for that.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 3/2/2013 11:35 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> -->
>>
>> Last weekend I took some folks on demo rides. All are -10 builders,
>> not yet flying.
>>
>> On one flight, I had one big guy in the back seat. My CG range is
>> 8.4 to 16.8 (inches aft of the wing leading edge). My CG on takeoff
>> was 14.4--I ran the number before we departed because I knew the CG
>> was "aft-ish"--and the weight was 2614 lbs. Years ago during phase 1
>> we loaded the plane at aft CG, max gross, and did some stalls. I
>> don't recall anything strange at all about those maneuvers.
>>
>> First, I demonstrated an approach stall, which I've done many times.
>> My normal recovery is just to add a little power, stick neutral if
>> necessary, and the plane just flys out. On the first stall, that's
>> just how it went.
>>
>> Of course then it was time for a little "Watch this!"...
>>
>> Actually, I wanted to demonstrate the AOA audio warning,
>> "Angle-Angle-Push", which was kind of faint on the first stall. So I
>> let the stall develop further, keeping wings level with the rudder.
>> The wings rocked a bit but nothing serious. The nose stayed straight
>> ahead. Then, the nose pitched WAY down. I added power to break the
>> stall and fly it out but there was no change. It felt like we were
>> descending, not flying. It felt like we were about 45* nose down, but
>> the EFIS logs didn't capture anything that extreme. I was concerned
>> about entering a spin. So was the guy in the front seat--he said so
>> as it was happening...I added more power, stick neutral, and still
>> the nose was pointed down. I kept the wings more or less level but
>> at this point things seemed out of the ordinary so I got more
>> agressive with the controls. I pushed forward, adding more power.
>> The plane then seemed to fly, and I seemed to be going pretty fast,
>> but I didn't look at the airspeed. I pulled up gently and the
>> controls eventually started feeling normal again. The EFIS logs
>> showed the whole event lasted less than 10 seconds--two data
>> captures--but it sure seemed longer. We lost about 300 feet.
>>
>> I spoke to another -10 owner who has a lot of acro and formation
>> experience. He said, yeah, it'll do that...he concurred that from a
>> deep stall, an RV-10 requires extra effort to break it. That's
>> probably not a huge surprise if you think about it and expect it, but
>> in this case it gave me (and unfortunately my passengers) a little
>> concern.
>>
>> I'd be interested to hear if others have had similar experiences, and
>> if anyone has an explanation for what's going on aerodynamically.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
There's a huge difference between forward and aft cg's. Near the forward limit
mine just mushes, it won't really stall. Aft limit is another story, although
I've always found the stalls to be conventional.
I wonder about the "stick neutral" business. Most aircraft call for some forward
stick, for prompt stall recovery. You want to lower the angle of attack as
quickly as possible. At low speeds it takes a pretty good control deflection to
make the plane respond quickly. From a stall starting from a steep power on
climb attitude, and aft cg, I definitely need some forward stick to un-stall promptly.
How long were you flying? As I'm sure you know, if you start with cg near the aft
limit, it will move further aft as you burn gas. (Also true that if you start
near the forward limit, cg moves forward as you burn gas.)
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395431#395431
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
>Would you say that the
> elevator felt somewhat aerodynamically "disconnected" during this?
Yep, that's how it felt. No result from pushing the stick further and
further forward.
> you could hear the prop pitch change as it sounded like it quit biting the air
I felt that too. I added more and more power without the results I
expected. Usually, adding power gives an immediate result but not in
this case.
The plane didn't "snap out" like it usually does, where you feel a
clear difference between stalled vs. flying. It just felt less and
less stalled, at some point it felt normal, but not a really clear
line.
Which is very different from virtually every other mode of flight.
Everywhere else the plane just feels solid and predictable. I've told
lots of people that it just doesn't have any bad habits. Not that I'd
call this dangerous but it's good for people to be aware that some
behavior isn't perfectly linear.
I thought about this some more and so going back to Airplane 101, I'd
expect the nose to pitch down if the Hstab quits flying. Isn't that
why we have a (conservative) aft CG limit, to make sure the nose falls
first in a "freefall situation? Imagine if the tail dropped...yikes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Sean, that sounds pretty normal. I've seen that too, where if you
slow down gently and just ease the stick to the stop, it sort of just
mushes along and you can steer around with the rudder. If you give
the stick a sharp pull for the last couple inches you might get it to
break. That's what I'd call a normal RV-10 stall. Very gentle and
relaxed.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Mar 2, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Seano wrote:
>
> I was up experimenting with the stall in my 10. Mine is at the fwd cg with me
alone so keep that in mind. I stalled and kept the stick full aft. The plane
just buffeted and still had good aileron control. I stomped on the rudder both
directions with full aft stick and the plane just mushed along. It would not
enter a spin. Like I said I am close to the fwd CG. I have a video of this
I'll try to post later.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 2, 2013, at 10:02, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> I've seen something odd like this once too. The situation was a bit
>> different though from the sounds of it. Would you say that the
>> elevator felt somewhat aerodynamically "disconnected" during this?
>> The experience I had, you could hear the prop pitch change as it
>> sounded like it quit biting the air the same, and the pitch force
>> got real "sloppy", like you could have pulled or pushed and not
>> gotten a lot of response at all. But, going into standard stall
>> recovery mode automatically, I shoved the stick forward and
>> it came right out of it. The whole thing lasted only maybe 2 seconds,
>> but when you feel something like that you know how time goes slowly.
>> At any rate, I think I was just so deep in the stall at the time
>> that probably the wing wash interrupted the flow over the horizontal
>> stabilizer, or something like that. So the elevator lost some
>> effectiveness. At least that's what I attributed it to.
>> It wasn't quite a normal flight situation for me, so I've been
>> thinking of some day trying to recreate it up high, but I'm not
>> sure if I could, without the added weight of filled seats...so
>> I'm not sure if I'll bother. The airplane behaved pretty well
>> through it, so I was happy for that.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On 3/2/2013 11:35 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>
>>> Last weekend I took some folks on demo rides. All are -10 builders,
>>> not yet flying.
>>>
>>> On one flight, I had one big guy in the back seat. My CG range is 8.4
>>> to 16.8 (inches aft of the wing leading edge). My CG on takeoff was
>>> 14.4--I ran the number before we departed because I knew the CG was
>>> "aft-ish"--and the weight was 2614 lbs. Years ago during phase 1 we
>>> loaded the plane at aft CG, max gross, and did some stalls. I don't
>>> recall anything strange at all about those maneuvers.
>>>
>>> First, I demonstrated an approach stall, which I've done many times.
>>> My normal recovery is just to add a little power, stick neutral if
>>> necessary, and the plane just flys out. On the first stall, that's
>>> just how it went.
>>>
>>> Of course then it was time for a little "Watch this!"...
>>>
>>> Actually, I wanted to demonstrate the AOA audio warning,
>>> "Angle-Angle-Push", which was kind of faint on the first stall. So I
>>> let the stall develop further, keeping wings level with the rudder.
>>> The wings rocked a bit but nothing serious. The nose stayed straight
>>> ahead. Then, the nose pitched WAY down. I added power to break the
>>> stall and fly it out but there was no change. It felt like we were
>>> descending, not flying. It felt like we were about 45* nose down, but
>>> the EFIS logs didn't capture anything that extreme. I was concerned
>>> about entering a spin. So was the guy in the front seat--he said so
>>> as it was happening...I added more power, stick neutral, and still the
>>> nose was pointed down. I kept the wings more or less level but at
>>> this point things seemed out of the ordinary so I got more agressive
>>> with the controls. I pushed forward, adding more power. The plane
>>> then seemed to fly, and I seemed to be going pretty fast, but I didn't
>>> look at the airspeed. I pulled up gently and the controls eventually
>>> started feeling normal again. The EFIS logs showed the whole event
>>> lasted less than 10 seconds--two data captures--but it sure seemed
>>> longer. We lost about 300 feet.
>>>
>>> I spoke to another -10 owner who has a lot of acro and formation
>>> experience. He said, yeah, it'll do that...he concurred that from a
>>> deep stall, an RV-10 requires extra effort to break it. That's
>>> probably not a huge surprise if you think about it and expect it, but
>>> in this case it gave me (and unfortunately my passengers) a little
>>> concern.
>>>
>>> I'd be interested to hear if others have had similar experiences, and
>>> if anyone has an explanation for what's going on aerodynamically.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Bob,
Yes, I could probably stand to move the stick forward faster,
especially with aft CG.
My basic philosophy until now has been to break the stall by adding
power if possible. I figure that what I'm practicing is an approach
stall, on final or elsewhere in the pattern, close to the ground. In
that case, I want to loose as little altitude as possible so it makes
sense to me to avoid very much forward stick. That goes out the
window if it doesn't work, though, so I'm reevaluating what I've been
taught.
I wanted to stay in the stall long enough to hear the AOA through a
few cycles, so I was asking for it. We'd only be flying a few
minutes. CG probably hadn't changed much from takeoff. And, I took
the rear passenger's word for it when I input his weight in the
calculator. But he couldn't have been off by much. It seemed
reasonable. I was 2+ inches forward of the aft limit, so I didn't
examine the data with a microscope, but I did take the opportunity to
demo the W&B program before we departed.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Mar 2, 2013 at 12:18 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> There's a huge difference between forward and aft cg's. Near the forward limit
mine just mushes, it won't really stall. Aft limit is another story, although
I've always found the stalls to be conventional.
>
> I wonder about the "stick neutral" business. Most aircraft call for some forward
stick, for prompt stall recovery. You want to lower the angle of attack as
quickly as possible. At low speeds it takes a pretty good control deflection
to make the plane respond quickly. From a stall starting from a steep power on
climb attitude, and aft cg, I definitely need some forward stick to un-stall
promptly.
>
> How long were you flying? As I'm sure you know, if you start with cg near the
aft limit, it will move further aft as you burn gas. (Also true that if you start
near the forward limit, cg moves forward as you burn gas.)
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395431#395431
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Dave, were your flaps Up when this happened?
Tim
On Mar 2, 2013, at 2:34 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> Would you say that the
>> elevator felt somewhat aerodynamically "disconnected" during this?
>
> Yep, that's how it felt. No result from pushing the stick further and
> further forward.
>
>> you could hear the prop pitch change as it sounded like it quit biting the air
>
> I felt that too. I added more and more power without the results I
> expected. Usually, adding power gives an immediate result but not in
> this case.
>
> The plane didn't "snap out" like it usually does, where you feel a
> clear difference between stalled vs. flying. It just felt less and
> less stalled, at some point it felt normal, but not a really clear
> line.
>
> Which is very different from virtually every other mode of flight.
> Everywhere else the plane just feels solid and predictable. I've told
> lots of people that it just doesn't have any bad habits. Not that I'd
> call this dangerous but it's good for people to be aware that some
> behavior isn't perfectly linear.
>
> I thought about this some more and so going back to Airplane 101, I'd
> expect the nose to pitch down if the Hstab quits flying. Isn't that
> why we have a (conservative) aft CG limit, to make sure the nose falls
> first in a "freefall situation? Imagine if the tail dropped...yikes.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone come up with a good way to have the front heat duct be able to
heat the pilots side and copilots side differently? My wife is a freeze
baby, and I hate being hot. I don't there there is a temperature range that
we're both comfortable at. Dual zone climate control in our cars has saved
my sanity!
I'm guessing at the simple end of things, could I just put some eyeball
vents on the ducts? Has anyone built some sort of adjustable differential
airflow valve to go in place of the tee fitting?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front seat heat |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My short arms could never reach eyeball vents at my feet, in flight. Sounds like
what you want is a butterfly valve in the middle of the T that splits the heat.
Maybe driven by an electric motor?
Or duct tape covering 3/4 the opening on your side?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395443#395443
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front seat heat |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I have an aluminum door that is adjustable on my side only. Saves me, my wif
e has the same issue.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2013, at 13:20, Ed Kranz wrote:
> Has anyone come up with a good way to have the front heat duct be able to h
eat the pilots side and copilots side differently? My wife is a freeze baby,
and I hate being hot. I don't there there is a temperature range that we're
both comfortable at. Dual zone climate control in our cars has saved my san
ity!
>
> I'm guessing at the simple end of things, could I just put some eyeball ve
nts on the ducts? Has anyone built some sort of adjustable differential airf
low valve to go in place of the tee fitting?
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)u.washington.edu> |
| Subject: | Another use for an RV-10: hauling an RV-12 |
We flew our RV-10 down to Oregon yesterday to become, as far as Van's employees could remember, the first ones ever to pick up an RV-12 fuselage kit and fly away with it in a -10. Great fun. Full story and pics at: http://faculty.washington.edu/dmasys/RV12inRV10.html
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD
RV-12 N122LD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I'd buy into Tim's theory - combination of low airspeed plus some blanking of the
airflow by the wings could leave the elevators with little effectiveness until
the rotation caused by the cg location (slower for aft cg) brought them back
to normal. Prop noise change could be the inner part of the blade stalling
at low forward speed.
Dave, I'll bet you already apply forward pressure, as well as power, to recover
from an approach stall. If you didn't, the airspeed would decay even more due
to the trim feeling the prop blast and "thinking" that it's going to fast. This
is one of the hardest things to teach students, that an application of power
on final approach requires forward stick pressure, to avoid a loss of airspeed
(in most low tail airplanes). That being said, it's probably not a bad idea
to practice stalls with power off and staying off, just in case you ever find
yourself without power and trying to glide just a little more than is possible.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395446#395446
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Front seat heat |
I'm working on something that may help .....
For background, my RV-10 friend said that the back seat heat blows up
right behind his right shoulder while the left is cold.
I'm adapting a snap-vent from aircraft Spruce so the heat can be directed.
Here's where I'm at:
One prototype with just a round disk, one with a 'handle'.
and
The tube is 2"PVC pipe that fits inside the "T" holes. the ring is a
thin section of 2" pipe glued to the end ..... and no, it doesn't go
all the way around.
The tube needs to be about 2" long to fit the back seat heat vents.
I used a 3 1/4" hole saw to cut a disk out of 1/16" plastic I had laying
in my scrap bin.
A 1 7/8 hole saw cuts the hole for the PVC tube. Some sanding needs to
be done to fit the PVC tube.
I'm planning on using the red silicone to glue the snap-vent to the
plastic disk and on the PVC tube to keep it inside the vent hole.
The rear can be adjusted by the back seaters .... but the front will
have to be set on the ground.
Similarly, plastic plugs can be inserted in the "T" holes with various
size holes (think baby powder cap) to regulate the amount of air.
Actually, blocking off part of the hole with metal-tape would be easier
.......
Linn
On 3/2/2013 4:20 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
> Has anyone come up with a good way to have the front heat duct be able
> to heat the pilots side and copilots side differently? My wife is a
> freeze baby, and I hate being hot. I don't there there is a
> temperature range that we're both comfortable at. Dual zone climate
> control in our cars has saved my sanity!
>
> I'm guessing at the simple end of things, could I just put some
> eyeball vents on the ducts? Has anyone built some sort of adjustable
> differential airflow valve to go in place of the tee fitting?
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front seat heat |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Duct tape would melt into a sticky mess but a guillotine valve would work nice.
Tim
On Mar 2, 2013, at 3:45 PM, "Bob Turner" wrote:
>
> My short arms could never reach eyeball vents at my feet, in flight. Sounds like
what you want is a butterfly valve in the middle of the T that splits the
heat. Maybe driven by an electric motor?
> Or duct tape covering 3/4 the opening on your side?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395443#395443
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Front seat heat |
That's what mine is. I put two shoulder bolts into nutplates. One to pivot
on and one to slide down a slotted arc. The aluminum piece looks like a
small pizza slice.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Front seat heat
>
> Duct tape would melt into a sticky mess but a guillotine valve would work
> nice.
> Tim
>
>
> On Mar 2, 2013, at 3:45 PM, "Bob Turner" wrote:
>
>>
>> My short arms could never reach eyeball vents at my feet, in flight.
>> Sounds like what you want is a butterfly valve in the middle of the T
>> that splits the heat. Maybe driven by an electric motor?
>> Or duct tape covering 3/4 the opening on your side?
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395443#395443
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Yeah, flaps up.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Mar 2, 2013 at 1:03 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Dave, were your flaps Up when this happened?
> Tim
>
>
> On Mar 2, 2013, at 2:34 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>>
>>> Would you say that the
>>> elevator felt somewhat aerodynamically "disconnected" during this?
>>
>> Yep, that's how it felt. No result from pushing the stick further and
>> further forward.
>>
>>> you could hear the prop pitch change as it sounded like it quit biting the
air
>>
>> I felt that too. I added more and more power without the results I
>> expected. Usually, adding power gives an immediate result but not in
>> this case.
>>
>> The plane didn't "snap out" like it usually does, where you feel a
>> clear difference between stalled vs. flying. It just felt less and
>> less stalled, at some point it felt normal, but not a really clear
>> line.
>>
>> Which is very different from virtually every other mode of flight.
>> Everywhere else the plane just feels solid and predictable. I've told
>> lots of people that it just doesn't have any bad habits. Not that I'd
>> call this dangerous but it's good for people to be aware that some
>> behavior isn't perfectly linear.
>>
>> I thought about this some more and so going back to Airplane 101, I'd
>> expect the nose to pitch down if the Hstab quits flying. Isn't that
>> why we have a (conservative) aft CG limit, to make sure the nose falls
>> first in a "freefall situation? Imagine if the tail dropped...yikes.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
I think mine were too. I've never had anything strange happen
when with full flaps.
Tim
On 3/2/2013 8:54 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> Yeah, flaps up.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another use for an RV-10: hauling an RV-12 |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Neat Story.
On Mar 2, 2013, at 5:08 PM, Dan Masys wrote:
>
> We flew our RV-10 down to Oregon yesterday to become, as far as Van's employees could remember, the first ones ever to pick up an RV-12 fuselage kit and fly away with it in a -10. Great fun. Full story and pics at: http://faculty.washington.edu/dmasys/RV12inRV10.html
>
> -Dan Masys
> RV-10 N104LD
> RV-12 N122LD
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another use for an RV-10: hauling an RV-12 |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
So from now on it can be claimed that this is the fastest RV-12 which on its first
flight cruised at 170+ TAS.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395485#395485
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front seat heat |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Electric Seat heaters work great. We rarely need much heated air.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395490#395490
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I practice full power, idle, flap and no flap stalls every few months with the
family and xc trip loading at 3-5,000' AGL. This puts us at gross and my CG at
15.93" with full fuel. At the end of our 4.5 hr trip to Florida we were at 16.70",
which made for a very touchy landing. I am pretty aggressive getting the
stick very far forward on recovery and once flying nose low add power in slowly.
I don't lose more than 200-300'.
By myself and no flaps, I experience the same as you guys. Full aft stick with
a little pitch rocking and plenty of pre-stall warning. Release pressure on stick
and your flying again. Now with full flaps you don't get as much warning before
the stall solo or gross. My stall buzzer goes off about 6 kts above stall.
It is good for us to practice stalls often. My wife always calls my speeds
on final using our D6 backup. Unless we are over the runway, she knows my min
speeds of 70/75/80 KIAS(full, half, no flaps) as marked on the panel.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395494#395494
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I wouldn't discount the possible effects of air mass changes (wind).
A swirl, eddy, or gust at the wrong moment can create a defacto shear over the
flying surfaces. A 10 knot loss is normally no big deal, but a sudden loss of
10 knots of a wing approaching stall can have a huge effect on what that wing
or tail feels at that precise moment and can affect the recovery. The slower
the aircraft the more pronounced the effect will be. That is one way identical
maneuvers can have different results.
Think of a child's kite that flies steady then seemingly takes a plunge for no
reason.
Even in 150k lb aircraft, we add the gust factor of the winds to the approach target
speed up to Vref +20
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395501#395501
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Been following this thread .... not flying yet so this may be way out in
left field.
I wonder if the RV-10 at gross and slow ends up behind the power curve???
Linn ..... hoping to find out some day ....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
here is what you need (scroll to last item on the page)
http://www.aviacompinternational.com/connectors.html
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Thanks Wayne. I think what I did differently was to let the stall
develop, thinking it would act about like it does at lighter
weights/fwd CG. I wanted to demonstrate mushing along "sort of
stalled" but it showed me "very stalled" instead.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 7:29 AM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> I practice full power, idle, flap and no flap stalls every few months with the
family and xc trip loading at 3-5,000' AGL. This puts us at gross and my CG
at 15.93" with full fuel. At the end of our 4.5 hr trip to Florida we were at
16.70", which made for a very touchy landing. I am pretty aggressive getting the
stick very far forward on recovery and once flying nose low add power in slowly.
I don't lose more than 200-300'.
>
> By myself and no flaps, I experience the same as you guys. Full aft stick with
a little pitch rocking and plenty of pre-stall warning. Release pressure on
stick and your flying again. Now with full flaps you don't get as much warning
before the stall solo or gross. My stall buzzer goes off about 6 kts above stall.
It is good for us to practice stalls often. My wife always calls my speeds
on final using our D6 backup. Unless we are over the runway, she knows my min
speeds of 70/75/80 KIAS(full, half, no flaps) as marked on the panel.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 97.6
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395494#395494
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Good point. That could certainly be a contributing factor. The wind
at the airport was kind of weird that day. We were landing on a
runway that we only use about twice a year, and it was gusty.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:02 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> I wouldn't discount the possible effects of air mass changes (wind).
>
> A swirl, eddy, or gust at the wrong moment can create a defacto shear over the
flying surfaces. A 10 knot loss is normally no big deal, but a sudden loss
of 10 knots of a wing approaching stall can have a huge effect on what that wing
or tail feels at that precise moment and can affect the recovery. The slower
the aircraft the more pronounced the effect will be. That is one way identical
maneuvers can have different results.
>
> Think of a child's kite that flies steady then seemingly takes a plunge for no
reason.
>
> Even in 150k lb aircraft, we add the gust factor of the winds to the approach
target speed up to Vref +20
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit
and FWF kit in progress.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395501#395501
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: front seat heat |
Nice find Chris! I bet this would work great. I would have bought this if
it was available when I was building.
----- Original Message -----
From: <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 10:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: front seat heat
>
>
> here is what you need (scroll to last item on the page)
> http://www.aviacompinternational.com/connectors.html
> Chris Hukill
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: front seat heat |
| From: | jim(at)JimVillani.com |
I have both seat heat and seat cooling in mine. Both work Great. If you balance
the rear and front heat vents you can control the temperature very easily. Its
a GREAT airplane I like it better than my Mooney Bravo
------Original Message------
From: Seano
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: front seat heat
Sent: Mar 3, 2013 10:41 AM
Nice find Chris! I bet this would work great. I would have bought this if
it was available when I was building.
----- Original Message -----
From: <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 10:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: front seat heat
>
>
> here is what you need (scroll to last item on the page)
> http://www.aviacompinternational.com/connectors.html
> Chris Hukill
>
>
>
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
If anyone is interested let me know. I may start making more. I have this style
of mount which can be used on the wing tie-downs or tail tie-down. I also
have a fuel cap mount I'm still testing which can move any direction before flight
by simply turning the cap. attached is a pic of the tie down mount. It
is made of steel.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/goprp_mount_771.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
Linn, my understanding of "behind the power curve" is far from
intuitive...I have to really think about what that means and how it
applies. I can say that power was off and the stall speed was around
65 knots. My understanding is that at low speed and high power, the
stall can be delayed by propwash over the wing. That wouldn't have
been the case until I tried to recover since I wasn't really carrying
any power into the stall.
If I understand being behind the curve, it's more a function of
decision making than of airframe design, that is, the plane may or may
not be behind the curve in a given configuration. It depends on what
the pilot does, either intentionally or not. I'm pretty sure we
weren't behind the curve.
Sure would be interesting to hear how the 10 behaves behind the
curve--new thread anyone?
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 8:54 AM, Linn wrote:
>
> Been following this thread .... not flying yet so this may be way out in
> left field.
> I wonder if the RV-10 at gross and slow ends up behind the power curve???
> Linn ..... hoping to find out some day ....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
> Been following this thread .... not flying yet so this may be way out in
> left field.
> I wonder if the RV-10 at gross and slow ends up behind the power curve???
> Linn ..... hoping to find out some day ....
With power at idle, prop at fine pitch you can really feel and see your descent
increase once below 70 KIAS at gross with full flaps. Hence, we try to never
get below 70 KIAS on a steep/no power approach, which is the way we come in 75%
of the time. Timing your flare is very critical at 1,200-1,500 fpm descent!
No slipping needed so far in the -10, as you have a lot of runway in the windshield
already. Slipping does not increase your descent rate like it did in 172's.
I have had a few pilots say after landing that they had never came in so steep
before. We are not initially trained this way for a reason, but I always
prepare for that day when I have to come in steep without power.
Initially in transition training and Phase 1, I approached with a little power
in and a normal 3* glide slope which gave me more time in the flare.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395519#395519
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
Any idea on price for the tie down mount?
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 12:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: go pro mounts
If anyone is interested let me know. I may start making more. I have this
style of mount which can be used on the wing tie-downs or tail tie-down. I
also have a fuel cap mount I'm still testing which can move any direction
before flight by simply turning the cap. attached is a pic of the tie down
mount. It is made of steel.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/goprp_mount_771.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
What I learn by doing no power, steep, full gross, full flap approaches behind
the power curve is...if I want to descend faster pull back on the stick and if
I want to descend slower push forward on the stick(area of reverse command).
There is a slight lag, but by practicing this it may prevent us from "pulling"
away from the earth at low altitude with no power. If you get slow on final,
correct it immediately by pushing with no delay. If you get too low, you won't
have time for gravity to help you.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395524#395524
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: go pro mounts |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Not sure without knowing how many are interested. I'm suspecting around 25 bucks.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 3, 2013, at 10:25, "William Greenley" wrote:
>
> Any idea on price for the tie down mount?
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 12:59 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: go pro mounts
>
>
> If anyone is interested let me know. I may start making more. I have this
> style of mount which can be used on the wing tie-downs or tail tie-down. I
> also have a fuel cap mount I'm still testing which can move any direction
> before flight by simply turning the cap. attached is a pic of the tie down
> mount. It is made of steel.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/goprp_mount_771.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
All my approaches to landing (final) are steep. Doesn't matter if I'm
in my Pitts, Cherokee, or the Traumahawk. I wish the Pitts had flaps
like the Pipers!!! For me it's an energy management issue. If you drag
an airplane into the runway the energy vector is long down the runway.
In a steep approach the energy vector down the runway is way shorter.
True, it takes more finesse that way so your hangar mates won't talk
about your landing, but you won't use your brakes as much or use a lot
of runway ..... good if you have to taxi-back to an intersection.
Linn
On 3/3/2013 1:15 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
>
> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> Been following this thread .... not flying yet so this may be way out in
>> left field.
>> I wonder if the RV-10 at gross and slow ends up behind the power curve???
>> Linn ..... hoping to find out some day ....
>
> With power at idle, prop at fine pitch you can really feel and see your descent
increase once below 70 KIAS at gross with full flaps. Hence, we try to never
get below 70 KIAS on a steep/no power approach, which is the way we come in
75% of the time. Timing your flare is very critical at 1,200-1,500 fpm descent!
No slipping needed so far in the -10, as you have a lot of runway in the windshield
already. Slipping does not increase your descent rate like it did in 172's.
I have had a few pilots say after landing that they had never came in so
steep before. We are not initially trained this way for a reason, but I always
prepare for that day when I have to come in steep without power.
>
> Initially in transition training and Phase 1, I approached with a little power
in and a normal 3* glide slope which gave me more time in the flare.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 97.6
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395519#395519
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: front seat heat |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
I'm planning heated seats, and have been playing around with the idea of
cooled seats. What did you use? I know there are a few different kits out
there.
On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 11:56 AM, wrote:
>
> I have both seat heat and seat cooling in mine. Both work Great. If you
> balance the rear and front heat vents you can control the temperature very
> easily. Its a GREAT airplane I like it better than my Mooney Bravo
> ------Original Message------
> From: Seano
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: front seat heat
> Sent: Mar 3, 2013 10:41 AM
>
>
> Nice find Chris! I bet this would work great. I would have bought this if
> it was available when I was building.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 10:31 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: front seat heat
>
>
> >
> >
> > here is what you need (scroll to last item on the page)
> > http://www.aviacompinternational.com/connectors.html
> > Chris Hukill
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: front seat heat |
| From: | jim(at)JimVillani.com |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=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bowman" <davidbowman1(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: go pro mounts |
I'm interested
Dave Bowman
40831
N831DB Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 9:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: go pro mounts
If anyone is interested let me know. I may start making more. I have this
style of mount which can be used on the wing tie-downs or tail tie-down. I
also have a fuel cap mount I'm still testing which can move any direction
before flight by simply turning the cap. attached is a pic of the tie down
mount. It is made of steel.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/goprp_mount_771.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: go pro mounts |
Thanks for the interest. I'll make a batch and let you know when they are
available. I'm going to make them out of Stainless so they won't rust.
I'll post my video I made going to Baja Mexico and landing on the beach and
some dirt runways. The camera is really fun.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bowman" <davidbowman1(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: go pro mounts
>
> I'm interested
> Dave Bowman
> 40831
> N831DB Flying
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Strasnuts
> Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 9:58 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: go pro mounts
>
>
> If anyone is interested let me know. I may start making more. I have
> this style of mount which can be used on the wing tie-downs or tail
> tie-down. I also have a fuel cap mount I'm still testing which can move
> any direction before flight by simply turning the cap. attached is a pic
> of the tie down mount. It is made of steel.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/goprp_mount_771.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: go pro mounts |
Speaking of GoPro, I am about to purchase a vid cam for inside the
cockpit. I've been researching the GoPro and also the NflightCam.
http://www.sportys.com/Pilotshop/product/16638
The thing I like about the nflightcam is the special lens which reduces
the prop blur effect. Has anyone tried both? If so, plus and minus?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
On 3/3/13 6:07 PM, Dave Bowman wrote:
>
> I'm interested
> Dave Bowman
> 40831
> N831DB Flying
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Strasnuts
> Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 9:58 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: go pro mounts
>
>
> If anyone is interested let me know. I may start making more. I have
> this style of mount which can be used on the wing tie-downs or tail
> tie-down. I also have a fuel cap mount I'm still testing which can
> move any direction before flight by simply turning the cap. attached
> is a pic of the tie down mount. It is made of steel.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/goprp_mount_771.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Stall Characteristics (what just happened here?) |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Being "behind the power curve" means that you are flying slower than minimum sink
speed. If you plot the power required to maintain level, unaccelerated flight,
it is U shaped, sort of. The bottom, minimum point is the speed at which you
will have minimum sink in a power out situation. (It is not best glide speed).
In many light aircraft minimum sink speed is just a little faster than stall
speed. Let's say it's 65 kias. Then to fly straight and level at 64 kias takes
more, not less, power than at 65 kias. Flying straight and level at 63 kias
requires even more power. For this reason this region is also called the "region
of reverse command". In a power off glide, as already pointed out, once you
are below minimum sink, a lower speed results in an increased vertical descent
rate (since it requires more power which in this case is coming from gravity).
In high density altitude takeoffs (limited engine power) pilots sometimes
get into trouble by lifting off at too low an airspeed. e.g., they lift off at
60 kias and climb in ground effect to 30 ft agl. They then find themselves in
a situation where they are using every bit of power they have to just maintain
level flight. If they had instead lifted off at 65 kias they would find they
needed less power to maintain that same level flight at 30 ft agl, and could
use the excess power to accelerate or climb.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395563#395563
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front seat heat |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I used UL 181 aluminum foil tape rated at 260F. Simple, out of sight and works
great.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395564#395564
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Behind the curve, was RV-10 Stall Characteristics |
Am I correct in relating minimum sink to best angle? And best glide
distance to best rate? Or is it the other way around, or just
nonsense?
FWIW, I use about 80 KIAS for best angle, and I see about 95 for best
rate. I usually try to use the AOA for best glide, though, at the
split bar. Are other people seeing very different numbers?
Then basically, at some point on the approach are we almost certainly
behind the power curve? My understanding has been that it meant you
were "dragging it in", using a lot of power and still sinking, and
that if you pulled the power off without lowering the nose, you'd
stall.
Maybe I'm stating the obvious...
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 5:29 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Being "behind the power curve" means that you are flying slower than minimum
sink speed. If you plot the power required to maintain level, unaccelerated flight,
it is U shaped, sort of. The bottom, minimum point is the speed at which
you will have minimum sink in a power out situation. (It is not best glide speed).
In many light aircraft minimum sink speed is just a little faster than stall
speed. Let's say it's 65 kias. Then to fly straight and level at 64 kias
takes more, not less, power than at 65 kias. Flying straight and level at 63 kias
requires even more power. For this reason this region is also called the "region
of reverse command". In a power off glide, as already pointed out, once
you are below minimum sink, a lower speed results in an increased vertical descent
rate (since it requires more power which in this case is coming from gravity).
In high density altitude takeoffs (limited engine power) pilots sometimes
get into trouble by lifting off at too low an airsp!
> eed. e.g., they lift off at 60 kias and climb in ground effect to 30 ft agl.
They then find themselves in a situation where they are using every bit of power
they have to just maintain level flight. If they had instead lifted off at
65 kias they would find they needed less power to maintain that same level flight
at 30 ft agl, and could use the excess power to accelerate or climb.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395563#395563
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Hay Sean (303),
I have been playing with these cams for some time. I don't have experience
with all of the cameras but I do have time with most form factors. While th
e NFCam is a nice unit I do suggest you give the GoPro strong consideration
for a number of reasons. First the new GoPro is a wonderful design and ver
y good quality. GoPro has built a really good platform including the abilit
y to link a couple of units for both 3D and 4K filming. If you don't know w
hat 4K<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution> is you will in a few yea
rs. I have been in conversations with a fellow doing some amazing air foota
ge from his Velocity with something like 11 GoPro cams mounted to his bird.
The images are amazing. The waterproof housing and apple/android integrati
on are also a bonus. Throw in the best remote of all the cameras and you ha
ve a pretty compelling package. Plus much like the RV list there is a GoPro
community that is unmatched by any other action camera company.
Another advantage to GoPro is one of the owners of FoxConn (where you cell
phone was probably made) just dropped $200 MM<http://www.forbes.com/sites/r
yanmac/2012/12/20/foxconn-buys-stake-in-camera-maker-gopro-turning-founder-
into-a-billionaire/> into GoPro for 8% of the company valuing it at over a
billion dollars. That means the GoPro eco system is probably only going to
get more robust.
I was just in FL on a wave runner doing a self-tape movie through a ski sla
lom course. I used the chest mount, head mount, reversed the chest mount fo
r a trailing video. Held the cam very close to the waterline fore & aft for
a cool speed effect. Not too many action cam's would be comfortable or saf
e in that environment. It was no problem with the GP. Ultra easy to use wit
h the waterproof housing. 1080P 48 FPS video looks pure! I am part way thro
ugh editing and the video could be used in a theater setting.
Good luck,
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: go pro mounts
to:sean(at)stephensville.com>>
Speaking of GoPro, I am about to purchase a vid cam for inside the cockpit.
I've been researching the GoPro and also the NflightCam.
http://www.sportys.com/Pilotshop/product/16638
The thing I like about the nflightcam is the special lens which reduces the
prop blur effect. Has anyone tried both? If so, plus and minus?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
On 3/3/13 6:07 PM, Dave Bowman wrote:
> --> >
>
> I'm interested
> Dave Bowman
> 40831
> N831DB Flying
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Strasnuts
> Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 9:58 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: go pro mounts
>
sean(at)braunandco.com>>
>
> If anyone is interested let me know. I may start making more. I have
> this style of mount which can be used on the wing tie-downs or tail
> tie-down. I also have a fuel cap mount I'm still testing which can
> move any direction before flight by simply turning the cap. attached
> is a pic of the tie down mount. It is made of steel.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/goprp_mount_771.jpg
onics.com/files/goprp_mount_771.jpg>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind the curve, was RV-10 Stall Characteristics |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
In an ideal airplane best rate of climb speed would be the same as minimum sink
speed. But real props, even CS props, can only be optimized at one speed, and
that is nearly always cruise speed. The result is that as airspeed increases
from 60 to 70 to 80 to 90 .... knots the prop efficiency is increasing, and by
quite a bit. The increase of prop efficiency pushes Vy to much larger values
than minimum sink. Graphically you would plot power available (basically 260 HP
times the prop efficiency) on top of power required. Vy is where the difference
between the two curves is a maximum. Maximum level speed is where the curves
cross, on the right.
It is unlikely you get behind the power curve on a typical approach prior to the
flare. Minimum sink for an ideal airplane is 0.77 (actually the fourth root
of one third) times best glide, typically just a bit higher than stall speed.
But if you drag it in just a few knots above stall, then yes.
If you want to know exactly, just fly straight and level at 70, 69, 68, etc knots,
and note the power setting needed. When the power required starts going up,
you're on the back side.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395568#395568
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind the curve, was RV-10 Stall Characteristics |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
All, one of the best books around to explain all of this is "Aerodynamic for Naval Aviators". The book is available for free download on the FAA's web site at the address below. Actually they have a number of free books with good info, check out: http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aviation/
http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aviation/media/00-80T-80.pdf
Since nearly every build eventually becomes a test pilot it is a good idea to understand
the basics.
Please know that below is my interpretation of behind the curve, I do not have
formal training in aerodynamics but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express.
If you look at page 42 of the PDF (book page 24) you see a plot of the coefficient
of lift (CL) relative to the angle of attack (AOA). At the top of the curve
the AOA increases while the CL decreases up until the wing stalls. This is
one aspect of 'behind the curve'. The second aspect of 'behind the curve' is
found on pages 46 & 47 of the PDF (book pages 28 & 29), where they talk about
the drag coefficient (CD) relative to lift (L/D). This says that as the AOA
is increased the CD will increase. The AOA which yields the best L/D is called
L/D Max (the most lift for the least drag), at AOAs greater than what produces
L/D Max you are using more AOA to produce less lift with more drag until stall.
The powerplant (gravity or Lycoming) needs to provide extra power to overcome
the extra drag to produce lift. You will notice that everything refers
to angle of attack and not airspeed as a wing will always act the same at a certain
angle of attack, not true with airspeed. Which is one reason why AOA indicators
are such neat tools; they help you know where the edge is rather than
trying to predict the edge based on airspeed combined with other factors. One
last point from page 46 of the PDF (28 of the book) notice the differences
in shapes of the curves for different airfoils. Some of the curves have fairly
flat backsides (NACA 63-006), while some have dramatic drop offs (NACA 63-009).
The flat backs are typical of training aircraft where the back side of the
curve wasnt as bad. Our RVs have steeper backsides as a result of the tradeoffs
made to get a good high speed wing with low stall speeds. This is something
that gets new RV pilots sometimes when they get on the backside, they are
not as used to how much power it can take to correct a fast sink, remember that
power can come from Lycoming or gravity, push the throttle or the stick, but
it has got to happen quicker and more aggressively than that trainer we all got
used to. I do not have a plot for the RV-10 sorry.
Feel free to correct me on this, as I said I do not have formal training in this
area of engineering. Beyond that please take some time to investigate this
for yourselves, you may learn something, or at very least find a cure to insomnia.
Above all please continue to share with the group things that surprised
you, I have not experienced this one first hand, but I remember when a slip nearly
got me (see the archives).
Thanks Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395586#395586
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Barnes" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com> |
Robin,
I particularly like the 4K Panasonic playback monitor for $500,000.00.
Rick
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 8:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: go pro mounts
Hay Sean (303),
I have been playing with these cams for some time. I don't have experience
with all of the cameras but I do have time with most form factors. While the
NFCam is a nice unit I do suggest you give the GoPro strong consideration
for a number of reasons. First the new GoPro is a wonderful design and very
good quality. GoPro has built a really good platform including the ability
to link a couple of units for both 3D and 4K filming. If you don't know what
4K <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution> is you will in a few years.
I have been in conversations with a fellow doing some amazing air footage
from his Velocity with something like 11 GoPro cams mounted to his bird. The
images are amazing. The waterproof housing and apple/android integration are
also a bonus. Throw in the best remote of all the cameras and you have a
pretty compelling package. Plus much like the RV list there is a GoPro
community that is unmatched by any other action camera company.
Another advantage to GoPro is one of the owners of FoxConn (where you cell
phone was probably made) just dropped $200 MM
<http://www.forbes.com/sites/ryanmac/2012/12/20/foxconn-buys-stake-in-camera
-maker-gopro-turning-founder-into-a-billionaire/> into GoPro for 8% of the
company valuing it at over a billion dollars. That means the GoPro eco
system is probably only going to get more robust.
I was just in FL on a wave runner doing a self-tape movie through a ski
slalom course. I used the chest mount, head mount, reversed the chest mount
for a trailing video. Held the cam very close to the waterline fore & aft
for a cool speed effect. Not too many action cam's would be comfortable or
safe in that environment. It was no problem with the GP. Ultra easy to use
with the waterproof housing. 1080P 48 FPS video looks pure! I am part way
through editing and the video could be used in a theater setting.
Good luck,
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: go pro mounts
sean(at)stephensville.com>
Speaking of GoPro, I am about to purchase a vid cam for inside the cockpit.
I've been researching the GoPro and also the NflightCam.
<http://www.sportys.com/Pilotshop/product/16638>
http://www.sportys.com/Pilotshop/product/16638
The thing I like about the nflightcam is the special lens which reduces the
prop blur effect. Has anyone tried both? If so, plus and minus?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
On 3/3/13 6:07 PM, Dave Bowman wrote:
> --> < davidbowman1(at)verizon.net>
>
> I'm interested
> Dave Bowman
> 40831
> N831DB Flying
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Strasnuts
> Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 9:58 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: go pro mounts
>
sean(at)braunandco.com>
>
> If anyone is interested let me know. I may start making more. I have
> this style of mount which can be used on the wing tie-downs or tail
> tie-down. I also have a fuel cap mount I'm still testing which can
> move any direction before flight by simply turning the cap. attached
> is a pic of the tie down mount. It is made of steel.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395516#395516
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> <http://forums.matronics.com/files/goprp_mount_771.jpg>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/goprp_mount_771.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===================
bsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum -
nd much much more:
tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===================
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
eb Forums!
.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
===================
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
o:p>
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
tronics.com/contribution"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===================
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - <http://www.avg.com> www.avg.com
- Release Date: 03/03/13
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Certifying the RV-10 |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
An one sided debate on certifying the RV-10 on the red board.
http://forums.aopa.org/showthread.php?t=86327
Some of the responses are pretty comical and truly uninformed.
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Paint - 90% done, 90% to go stage
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395611#395611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Composites for RV-10s Class |
Hello all
This is a brief note to publicly thank the guys from Aircrafters, in
Watsonville - CA, to where I travelled several thousand miles to attend
their class on Composites for the RV-10.
It was time and money well spent, I learned a lot of tips that will help me
to do a much better job with the fiberglass parts (and there are plenty.).
I also met a bunch of fellow homebuilders, we exchanged experiences and some
ideas, not only on the FB subject itself.
Thank you Dave Saylor and Tim Farrell
Best
Carlos Trigo
P.S. - ah, well, and also had the opportunity to have a demo flight on
Dave's -10. Thanks Dave
Pretty fun and very useful stay at Watsonville.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind the curve, was RV-10 Stall Characteristics |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Jason, since you said it's okay to offer some corrections...
One of the hardest concepts for physics students to grasp is that when they're
holding a big rock in front of them, they are in fact doing no work (in the physics
sense), since work (also called energy) requires a force acting through
a distance.
Power (which is energy per second) cannot be directly compared to lift or drag,
which are forces. So L/D max (I find it easiest to think of the lift fixed at
the airplane's weight, and the drag varying) is where the least force is required
to keep the airplane in unaccelerated flight. But it is not where the least
power is required, because at slightly lower speeds the force is slightly greater,
but the distance per time (speed) is lower, and the product of the two
(power) is less. So you end up with minimum sink (minimum power required) speed
being less than best glide speed. Remember best glide is not an attempt to
minimize power, but rather to maximize the ratio of forward distance traveled
over vertical distance lost. In some ways comparable to the fact that maximum
range speed is higher than maximum endurance speed.
So you don't get behind the power curve (the region where it takes more power to
maintain level flight as you go slower) until you are slower than minimum sink
speed, which, as I said, is 0.76 (fourth root of 1/3) slower than best L/D
speed for an ideal plane.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395619#395619
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind the curve, was RV-10 Stall Characteristics |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Thanks Bob - let me say this a bit differently, maybe we are saying the same thing.
As you reduce power to slow down and increase AOA to maintain level flight you
will continue to reduce drag, at some point (L/D Max) the drag will again start
to increase, which is the point you have moved to the backside of the curve.
You will need further increase AOA and increase power to maintain level flight,
until you slow to a speed where maximum AOA is reached and the wing stalls
regardless of power setting. Important to note the distinction, before reaching
L/D Max you can decrease power, increase AOA and maintain altitude, after
passing L/D Max you will need to increase power and AOA to hold altitude. The
higher power setting is required to offset the increased drag. In order to get
out of the stall we need to reduce the AOA either by adding enough power to
overcome the drag plus the power needed to alter the relative wind (AOA), or
by pushing the nose over to alter the relative wind (AOA) ideally both.
Question on the formula you sight, is that good for all types of airplanes, or
is the number different for say a Cessna versus a Cirrus?
Either way thanks for the feedback, and by all means let me (and the group know)
if I still dont get it, I am not sure I fully understand you distinction between
power and force as it applies here, from a theoretical standpoint I understand
perfectly. I guess when I say power I am referring to engine settings,
maybe not the best form.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395625#395625
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind the curve, was RV-10 Stall Characteristics |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Jason, not quite right yet.
Power is calculated by multiplying the force times the velocity. I know it is not
intuitive but you can get away with less power by slowing down, even though
the drag force goes up.
To make up numbers for the airplane, suppose at best L/D the force required to
overcome the drag is 100 lbs, and the speed is 80 knots. The power required is
8000 (in some strange units). Now if you slow to 70 knots, the drag is up to,
say 110 lbs. But the power required is lower, 7700 (same strange units), than
it was at best L/D, because while the drag force went up, it went up more slowly
than the speed went down. As you go still slower, the rate of increase of
drag gets larger, and eventually it goes up faster than speed goes down. That's
minimum sink speed, and slower than that you have the strange phenomenon that
level flight requires more power if you want to go even slower. BTW, as speed
goes to zero power required goes to infinity, not zero, because the drag goes
to infinity "faster" than the speed goes to zero.
The usual ideal airplane model approximations are: parasitic drag proportional
to v squared; wing lift proportional to angle of attack and v squared, and equal
to weight, induced drag equal to angle of attack times weight which makes induced
drag proportional to one divided by v squared. When you multiply the force
(drag) by v to get power you end up with terms that are proportional to v
cubed and 1/v. When you solve this equation you'll end up with v to the fourth,
that's where the fourth root comes from. When you differentiate the v cubed
term (to find the minimum) it becomes 3 v squared; that's where the 3 comes from.
Minimum sink is fourth root of 1/3 times best glide. This is all a lot simpler
if you can find graphs of "Power required" and "power available (including
prop efficiency)".
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395627#395627
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: go pro mounts |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Another mount we made and worked great. You can just turn your fuel cap to view
the fuse.
I may make this as a one piece unit to replace the top of the cap instead of Drilling
and tapping your cap like I did.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395655#395655
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo_3_214.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo_1_113.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo_4_165.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo_2_152.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind the curve, was RV-10 Stall Characteristics |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Have a look at the Naval Aviators Handbook starting on page 353 - they explain
operating on the backside of the curve (region of reverse command). They reference
power as thrust. You are going a bit further and talking about energy management.
Thanks for your help in understanding this Bob - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395657#395657
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind the curve, was RV-10 Stall Characteristics |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Yes, that's a good reference. Look at the graph of power required at the bottom
of page 98. It shows how minimum power occurs at a lower speed than max L/D,
and in fact is about 0.8 less.
This reference frequently mixes turbojet engines with propeller driving engines.
There are some important differences, explained around page 96 and following.
Turbojets tend to put out constant thrust regardless of speed ( and so put out
more power at higher speeds), while our internal combustion engines put out
constant power, not changing with speed (actually we can get a small amount of
extra power at higher speeds due to ram air pushing the manifold pressure up
a bit).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395660#395660
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
http://www.aviationinspector.com/?p=13785
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395662#395662
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | control stick bushing |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hey guys, section 39-8 talks about inserting a bushing in the control stick
base before bolting it to the WD-1010 control arm. I can't find any info
about this bushing, whether I made it or it came in the kit etc. Can
anyone shed light on what I'm to do here?
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: control stick bushing |
Its a brass bushing about 3" long and comes in the kit.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Lark" <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2013 11:32:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Hey guys, section 39-8 talks about inserting a bushing in the control stick base
before bolting it to the WD-1010 control arm. I can't find any info about this
bushing, whether I made it or it came in the kit etc. Can anyone shed light
on what I'm to do here?
Thx, Rick
#40956
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick bushing |
I just replaced mine. I was sick of the play and machined a Delrin
bushing. No play and smoother feel. The bushing ID was too small for
my OD using the brass bushing supplied in the kit.
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Its a brass bushing about 3" long and comes in the kit.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: "Rick Lark" <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2013 11:32:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Hey guys, section 39-8 talks about inserting a bushing in the control
stick base before bolting it to the WD-1010 control arm. I can't find
any info about this bushing, whether I made it or it came in the kit
etc. Can anyone shed light on what I'm to do here?
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | control stick bushing |
Interested in selling a couple of those. I have some play in mine, not
a lot, but enough that I don=99t like it. I tried a couple of
things to tighten it up.but have not been totally successful.
I am also interested in your gopro mount once you produce them. I made
one myself..but it is nowhere near as cool as yours. J
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: control stick bushing
I just replaced mine. I was sick of the play and machined a Delrin
bushing. No play and smoother feel. The bushing ID was too small for
my OD using the brass bushing supplied in the kit.
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Its a brass bushing about 3" long and comes in the kit.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
_____
From: "Rick Lark" <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2013 11:32:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Hey guys, section 39-8 talks about inserting a bushing in the control
stick base before bolting it to the WD-1010 control arm. I can't find
any info about this bushing, whether I made it or it came in the kit
etc. Can anyone shed light on what I'm to do here?
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick bushing |
Hey Rene',
I am reluctant to sell the bushings for the controls. Not only am I
afraid to sell them but they are all different lengths and different
IDs'. I noticed my weldment is not perfectly round from Vans. They
weld this unit and warp it in the process so the hole is not consistant.
The only way they get a bushing in there is to make it way undersize.
They would do better if they welded it and then drilled/reamed the hole
afterward. That's what we did. I took out the weldment and redrilled
the hole barely oversize then made the custom plastic bushing to fit in
the new hole. A lot of work for it but worth it.
I'll put you on the list for the GoPro mount and let you know when they
come available.
Thanks Rene, Let me know if I can help otherwise.
Sean
----- Original Message -----
From: Rene Felker
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 5:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Interested in selling a couple of those. I have some play in mine,
not a lot, but enough that I don=99t like it. I tried a couple of
things to tighten it up.but have not been totally successful.
I am also interested in your gopro mount once you produce them. I made
one myself..but it is nowhere near as cool as yours. J
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 5:10 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: control stick bushing
I just replaced mine. I was sick of the play and machined a Delrin
bushing. No play and smoother feel. The bushing ID was too small for
my OD using the brass bushing supplied in the kit.
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Its a brass bushing about 3" long and comes in the kit.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: "Rick Lark" <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2013 11:32:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Hey guys, section 39-8 talks about inserting a bushing in the
control stick base before bolting it to the WD-1010 control arm. I
can't find any info about this bushing, whether I made it or it came in
the kit etc. Can anyone shed light on what I'm to do here?
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control stick bushing |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hmmm, It appears I never got those bushings in the kit or used them
somewhere else. I could make bushings out of brass
I have a piece of Delrin here I could use too. Sean, do you think the
delrin is tough enough? (I guess obviously you do)
Looking at the piece of Delrin I have, it sure appears tough/strong
enough. Thx for the good idea.
Rick
On Wed, Mar 6, 2013 at 7:09 PM, Seano wrote:
> **
> I just replaced mine. I was sick of the play and machined a Delrin
> bushing. No play and smoother feel. The bushing ID was too small for my
> OD using the brass bushing supplied in the kit.
>
> *From:* davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 06, 2013 4:01 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: control stick bushing
>
> Its a brass bushing about 3" long and comes in the kit.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Rick Lark" <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
> *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent: *Wednesday, March 6, 2013 11:32:45 AM
> *Subject: *RV10-List: control stick bushing
>
> Hey guys, section 39-8 talks about inserting a bushing in the control
> stick base before bolting it to the WD-1010 control arm. I can't find any
> info about this bushing, whether I made it or it came in the kit etc. Can
> anyone shed light on what I'm to do here?
>
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cpayne <cpayne(at)joimail.com> |
| Subject: | SNF Showcase Event |
Are any RV-10 folks coming to Sun 'n Fun and maybe interested in showing what you and your airplane can do in a timed event? See http://www.sun-n-fun.org/FlyIn/EventActivitiesAndSchedules/SprintsandCatShots.aspx for details and registration. We are trying to bring back some competitive fun for fly-in attendees.
Craig Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | control stick bushing |
For what it's worth, recommend just getting the part from Van's.
One of the pure RV characteristics is the silky, no play controls. Ream out
the bell crank assembly per the plans, then trim the brass bushing slightly
longer than the bell crank tube. This ensures the bushing is fully captured
by the through bolt such that the bell crank rotates on the bushing, not the
through bolt. Add a film of grease on the bushing during assembly and you
have years of worry free operation.
Carl
RV-8A (700 hrs)
RV-10 (65 hours)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Hmmm, It appears I never got those bushings in the kit or used them
somewhere else. I could make bushings out of brass
I have a piece of Delrin here I could use too. Sean, do you think the
delrin is tough enough? (I guess obviously you do)
Looking at the piece of Delrin I have, it sure appears tough/strong enough.
Thx for the good idea.
Rick
On Wed, Mar 6, 2013 at 7:09 PM, Seano wrote:
I just replaced mine. I was sick of the play and machined a Delrin bushing.
No play and smoother feel. The bushing ID was too small for my OD using the
brass bushing supplied in the kit.
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Its a brass bushing about 3" long and comes in the kit.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
_____
From: "Rick Lark" <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2013 11:32:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: control stick bushing
Hey guys, section 39-8 talks about inserting a bushing in the control stick
base before bolting it to the WD-1010 control arm. I can't find any info
about this bushing, whether I made it or it came in the kit etc. Can anyone
shed light on what I'm to do here?
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel float parts |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Anyone know of a place that might sell just the float wire for the resistive fuel
sender? Seem to have broken the wire on my right fuel float? Forgot on install
to put that last little bend in the arm wire and when I pulled the whole sender
on the annual... I broke it. Just looking for the wire for the float arm
but if I have to order the whole thing because I did not pay attention to the
instructions so be it. Thanks
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395966#395966
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel float parts |
I believe you can order just the wire from Van's. I'd give them a call
first to make sure, but I believe this is what you want:
REPLACEMNT FLOAT WIRE IE F-385 FLOAT ARM
PJ
On 3/10/2013 09:47, Eric_Kallio wrote:
> Anyone know of a place that might sell just the float wire for the resistive
fuel sender? Seem to have broken the wire on my right fuel float? Forgot on install
to put that last little bend in the arm wire and when I pulled the whole
sender on the annual... I broke it. Just looking for the wire for the float arm
but if I have to order the whole thing because I did not pay attention to the
instructions so be it. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel float parts |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
That looks like it. Thanks. I will call them tomorrow. I could not get it to come
up on a search in the parts store. I kept spelling replacement correctly, but
that us apparently not how they spell it.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=395974#395974
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel float parts |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I expect they sell a fair number, as probably a lot are not bent correctly
on the first try.
On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 11:37 AM, PJ Seipel wrote:
>
> I believe you can order just the wire from Van's. I'd give them a call
> first to make sure, but I believe this is what you want:
>
> REPLACEMNT FLOAT WIRE IE F-385 FLOAT ARM
>
> PJ
>
>
> On 3/10/2013 09:47, Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
>> Anyone know of a place that might sell just the float wire for the
>> resistive fuel sender? Seem to have broken the wire on my right fuel float?
>> Forgot on install to put that last little bend in the arm wire and when I
>> pulled the whole sender on the annual... I broke it. Just looking for the
>> wire for the float arm but if I have to order the whole thing because I did
>> not pay attention to the instructions so be it. Thanks
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Finishing Kit Substitution Costs |
I pretty much went with the list of substitutions suggested on Tim's
site and this list. My windshield and back side windows came with the
fuselage kit I already had. I chose to delete the two door windows for
which Van's credited me $110 each. The door windows from Dresser cost
$150 each. Van's credited me $100.38 for the nose wheel. MATCO charged
130.49 for the nose wheel. Van's credited me $68 each for the main gear
tires and $52.40 for the nose wheel tire. Dresser charge $69 each for
the main gear retreads and $69.95 for the nose wheel retread. Thus
these were not direct cost substitutes, but the nose wheel is a must and
I hope the windows are worth the difference and I understand the tires
wear longer. I thought this might be of interest to those at this stage
of the build.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing Kit Substitution Costs |
Dave;
I helped Desser with the front window/windscreen another builder with the
sides- they fit perfectly versus having to do all the trimming to make it
fit. The quality of Cee baileys is also better than that sent from Vans.
Keep in mind that you may pay more for the windows, Matco and tires but you
are far better off for it. In the end you really saved a whole lot of time
and eventually money as the parts you replaced from the Vans parts will last
far longer.
I make nothing on this, but believe me I worked with Desser/Cee Baileys
because the windows are lacking from Vans and the product Desser came up
with was based on thriving for perfection and a perfect fit "as is". Until
you have put the windows on and off 20 times to get the gap right one would
not understand the advantage of having a nearly perfect fitting piece on
arrival. I tossed my windscreen as I had a "bulge" on the co-pilot side and
used the Desser version that was rounded and tight fitting throughout.
Thanks for the feedback!
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Fritzsche (Building)
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 11:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Substitution Costs
I pretty much went with the list of substitutions suggested on Tim's
site and this list. My windshield and back side windows came with the
fuselage kit I already had. I chose to delete the two door windows for
which Van's credited me $110 each. The door windows from Dresser cost
$150 each. Van's credited me $100.38 for the nose wheel. MATCO charged
130.49 for the nose wheel. Van's credited me $68 each for the main gear
tires and $52.40 for the nose wheel tire. Dresser charge $69 each for
the main gear retreads and $69.95 for the nose wheel retread. Thus
these were not direct cost substitutes, but the nose wheel is a must and
I hope the windows are worth the difference and I understand the tires
wear longer. I thought this might be of interest to those at this stage
of the build.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Step intallation |
Hi there
On the QB fuselage, I came to the conclusion that most of the step
installation work is already done, you only have to insert the step and
final-drill the vertical hole for the AN3-20A bolt.
My problem is that, with the existing pilot holes aligned, neither the
45 =BC=94
distance (between the aft edge of the wing attachment bulkhead and the
leading edge of the step) indicated in fig. 2 of page 30-3 is good (I
have
around 1=94 more), nor the weld at the top of the step sits flush with
the
skin=85
Should I change anything to mate those 2 conditions, or can I just
final-drill the hole like it is?
Thanks
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Step intallation |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Carlos, I only had pilot holes in the powder coated support, not the step
tube, so I slid the steps in as far as required to get the right
dimension. Also search the archives as lots of later builders are putting
in a solid plug in the step tube, and then drilling through the whole
assembly to help keep the bolt from lossening up over time. See Bob
Newmans web site for details.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 5:18 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote
:
> Hi there****
>
> ** **
>
> On the QB fuselage, I came to the conclusion that most of the step
> installation work is already done, you only have to insert the step and
> final-drill the vertical hole for the AN3-20A bolt.****
>
> ** **
>
> My problem is that, with the existing pilot holes aligned, neither the 45
> =BC=94 distance (between the aft edge of the wing attachment bulkhead and
the
> leading edge of the step) indicated in fig. 2 of page 30-3 is good (I hav
e
> around 1=94 more), nor the weld at the top of the step sits flush with th
e
> skin=85****
>
> ** **
>
> Should I change anything to mate those 2 conditions, or can I just
> final-drill the hole like it is?****
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks****
>
> Carlos ****
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Step intallation |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Are you sure you have the correct step on the correct side ? Also, you may want
to create an access plate for the bolt in case it loosens up or the weld cracks.
I believe bob Newman sells an insert for the step as Rick has posted above
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=396048#396048
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall insulation |
All,
I am trying to make a decision as to a decent method of firewall
insulation. I have looked through the arhives and have seen where some
have used a Fiberfrax type of material and some have used a foam
material. Is there anything that might not be a good idea to use bot the
Fiberfrax as a thermal insulation and a foam insulation for acoustic?Any
thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cabin top trimming data point |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Guys, I started trimming the cabin top today and made 2 discoveries. 1) as
others have found normal jig saw blades dull incredibly quickly. 2) I also
tried a carbide jig saw blade I purchased years ago to cut ceramic tile.
This blade was mounted in my Makita jig saw and worked great. I completed
all the rough trimming in probably a 1/2 hour, and with little dust
compared to a rotary tool.
Unfortunately I have no idea where I purchased this blade now but if you
can find one, give it a try.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Ed,
You need to read the thread in the VAF archives about Dan horton's testing of all
the materials.
Unfortunately, as Ted found out, that black foam insulation turns into caustic
black smoke pretty quickly. I wouldn't use it on the firewall or tunnel. I
did use the black foam in areas that most likely would be exposed to flames in
flight, like the side walls.
I used fiberfrax in the tunnel. On the firewall I used a product from acs that
is a ceramic blanket with stainless foil on the firewall side and aluminum foil
on the aft side.
There is no 100% answer here. You need to determine the best way to mitigate the
risk of heat/fire, since many of the solutions introduce other risks if implemented.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 11, 2013, at 9:48 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
> All,
> I am trying to make a decision as to a decent method of firewall insulation.
I have looked through the arhives and have seen where some have used a Fiberfrax
type of material and some have used a foam material. Is there anything that
might not be a good idea to use bot the Fiberfrax as a thermal insulation
and a foam insulation for acoustic?Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cabin top trimming data point |
| From: | William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
What grit of carbide blade did you find worked best for you?
On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 10:04 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Guys, I started trimming the cabin top today and made 2 discoveries. 1)
> as others have found normal jig saw blades dull incredibly quickly. 2) I
> also tried a carbide jig saw blade I purchased years ago to cut ceramic
> tile. This blade was mounted in my Makita jig saw and worked great. I
> completed all the rough trimming in probably a 1/2 hour, and with little
> dust compared to a rotary tool.
>
> Unfortunately I have no idea where I purchased this blade now but if you
> can find one, give it a try.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall insulation |
I used the this and like it:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/insulator3.php
The double sided, one layer thick is fine.
Get the aluminum foil tape to install:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/insultape.php
I used this insulation on the inside of the firewall, all floors and
sidewalls (with an interior fabric covering the cabin side of the insulation
for areas not enclosed). I did not use it for the cabin top (I found a nice
marine grade upholstery product for that). I have this on the bottom of the
tunnel but not the sides. I have not experienced any issues with tunnel
heat. I have some KoolMat
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ap/insulation/koolmat.php on the
firewall. It is between the cabin heat control valves and the firewall,
then extents up and over the top of the valves. The idea is to not blast
the engine and fuel pump with hot heat muff air that bounces off the valves
back toward the engine when the valves are shut (on hot days when you least
want hot air banging on the fuel pump). So the KoolMat insulates some
thermal heat transfer to the firewall, and looping the KoolMat over the top
and then down in front of the valves directs the dumped heat muff air down
and away from the engine.
I know one RV-10 builder who used the black foam in the floor area that had
to pull it out - it started to smell up the airplane when it got warm.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall insulation
Ed,
You need to read the thread in the VAF archives about Dan horton's testing
of all the materials.
Unfortunately, as Ted found out, that black foam insulation turns into
caustic black smoke pretty quickly. I wouldn't use it on the firewall or
tunnel. I did use the black foam in areas that most likely would be exposed
to flames in flight, like the side walls.
I used fiberfrax in the tunnel. On the firewall I used a product from acs
that is a ceramic blanket with stainless foil on the firewall side and
aluminum foil on the aft side.
There is no 100% answer here. You need to determine the best way to
mitigate the risk of heat/fire, since many of the solutions introduce other
risks if implemented.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 11, 2013, at 9:48 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
> All,
> I am trying to make a decision as to a decent method of firewall
insulation. I have looked through the arhives and have seen where some have
used a Fiberfrax type of material and some have used a foam material. Is
there anything that might not be a good idea to use bot the Fiberfrax as a
thermal insulation and a foam insulation for acoustic?Any thoughts would be
greatly appreciated.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | cabin top trimming data point |
I did my cabin top trimming with the harbor freight body saw and about 2
packs of blades or more making lots of dust and spending way too much time
doing it. I suffered through trimming the rear windows with the typical 4"
cutoff wheel then another builder, Mark Cooper, turned me on to a great
alternative the diamond wheel for dremel tools.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=EZ545
This works really well for both fiberglass and plexi and seems to last quite
a while. I trimmed the door windows with this in minutes compared to the
hours it took using the vans supplied cutoff wheel. It doesn't take side
loading very well but given its smaller size it works pretty good still
trimming the corners.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top trimming data point
Guys, I started trimming the cabin top today and made 2 discoveries. 1) as
others have found normal jig saw blades dull incredibly quickly. 2) I also
tried a carbide jig saw blade I purchased years ago to cut ceramic tile.
This blade was mounted in my Makita jig saw and worked great. I completed
all the rough trimming in probably a 1/2 hour, and with little dust compared
to a rotary tool.
Unfortunately I have no idea where I purchased this blade now but if you can
find one, give it a try.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Someone on the RV-10 list shared a photo of their GPS shelf mounted FWF tha
t had 4+ GPS antenna mounted. I recall the shelf was painted black and conn
ected the firewall with the motor mount? Can the owner share the photo agai
n with the group? I need something similar for my 8A and cannot locate the
post.
Thanks,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Shelf FWF |
Here's the post in the forums with a bunch of options including the one
you are referring to.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392689#392689
-Sean #40303 (FAB)
On 3/12/13 1:55 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Someone on the RV-10 list shared a photo of their GPS shelf mounted
> FWF that had 4+ GPS antenna mounted. I recall the shelf was painted
> black and connected the firewall with the motor mount? Can the owner
> share the photo again with the group? I need something similar for my
> 8A and cannot locate the post.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Shelf FWF |
Just curious ..... why not put the GPS antennas on the glareshield???
Linn
On 3/12/2013 2:55 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Someone on the RV-10 list shared a photo of their GPS shelf mounted
> FWF that had 4+ GPS antenna mounted. I recall the shelf was painted
> black and connected the firewall with the motor mount? Can the owner
> share the photo again with the group? I need something similar for my
> 8A and cannot locate the post.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Shelf FWF |
For me it was just-assedics, they work well under the cowl and are out of
sight.-=0A=0ABruce 151BJ in the paint shop=0A=0A=0A_____________________
___________=0A From: Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics
.com =0ASent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 2:05 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: GPS
Shelf FWF=0A =0A=0AJust curious ..... why not put the GPS antennas on the
glareshield???=0ALinn=0A=0AOn 3/12/2013 2:55 PM, Robin Marks wrote:=0A=0A
=0A>Someone on the RV-10 list shared a photo of their GPS shelf mounted FWF
that had 4+ GPS antenna mounted. I recall the shelf was painted black and
connected the firewall with the motor mount? Can the owner share the photo
again with the group? I need something similar for my 8A and cannot locate
the post.=0A>-=0A>Thanks,=0A>Robin =0A>No virus found in this message.=0A
=====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing Kit Substitution Costs |
I received a couple e-mails asking for more information on the parts the
Desser replace. I am pretty certain Tim has this already somewhere on his
website however for easy reference.
I broke down the Desser/Cee Bailey's packages and the respective Vans part
number it replaces. Keep in mind that I recall the windows came with a
earlier kit than the finish kit. Best to have Vans send a copy of the parts
list at each point and review to see if any of the parts that are being
replaced are removed.
Desser site:
Wingtip position light lenses- VA193
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/RV%252d10-Clear-Wing-tip-lenses-%28pair%29.html
Complete Windows kit -
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/Cee-Bailey%27s-RV%252d10-Windshield%2C-pilot-%26-co%252dpilot-door-windows%2C-left-and-right-rear-window-set.html
Individual kits:
Side rear windows- C-1004L/C1004R
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/RV%252d10-Rear-%28Left-or-Right%29-Window.html
side DOOR windows C1003L/1003R
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/RV%252d10-pilot-%26-co%252dpilot-door-windows%2C-left-and-right-rear-window-set.html
front windscreen (C-1005)
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/Cee-Baileys-RV%252d10-Windshield.html
tires
http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/products/RV%252d10-New-Builders-Special-save-10%25-%28two-15%7B47%7D600%252d6PR-Retreads%2C-two-Aero-Classic-Easy-Flate-Tubes%2C-one-5.00%252d5-6PR-Elite-Retreads%2C-and-one-Aero-Classic-5.00%252d5-Butyl-Tube%29.html
The advantage of getting the retreads now, if one is ever going to go this
route, is that the wheel pants are spaced correctly around the tires when
building, otherwise one may find they need to make the area larger after
replacing the stock tires with retread.
Hope this helps!
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Pascal
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Substitution Costs
Dave;
I helped Desser with the front window/windscreen another builder with the
sides- they fit perfectly versus having to do all the trimming to make it
fit. The quality of Cee baileys is also better than that sent from Vans.
Keep in mind that you may pay more for the windows, Matco and tires but you
are far better off for it. In the end you really saved a whole lot of time
and eventually money as the parts you replaced from the Vans parts will last
far longer.
I make nothing on this, but believe me I worked with Desser/Cee Baileys
because the windows are lacking from Vans and the product Desser came up
with was based on thriving for perfection and a perfect fit "as is". Until
you have put the windows on and off 20 times to get the gap right one would
not understand the advantage of having a nearly perfect fitting piece on
arrival. I tossed my windscreen as I had a "bulge" on the co-pilot side and
used the Desser version that was rounded and tight fitting throughout.
Thanks for the feedback!
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Fritzsche (Building)
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 11:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Substitution Costs
I pretty much went with the list of substitutions suggested on Tim's
site and this list. My windshield and back side windows came with the
fuselage kit I already had. I chose to delete the two door windows for
which Van's credited me $110 each. The door windows from Dresser cost
$150 each. Van's credited me $100.38 for the nose wheel. MATCO charged
130.49 for the nose wheel. Van's credited me $68 each for the main gear
tires and $52.40 for the nose wheel tire. Dresser charge $69 each for
the main gear retreads and $69.95 for the nose wheel retread. Thus
these were not direct cost substitutes, but the nose wheel is a must and
I hope the windows are worth the difference and I understand the tires
wear longer. I thought this might be of interest to those at this stage
of the build.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS Shelf FWF |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
Here is my solution.
Jim Combs
N312F - Flying 460+ Hours
On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 2:55 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Someone on the RV-10 list shared a photo of their GPS shelf mounted FWF
> that had 4+ GPS antenna mounted. I recall the shelf was painted black and
> connected the firewall with the motor mount? Can the owner share the photo
> again with the group? I need something similar for my 8A and cannot locate
> the post.****
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks,****
>
> Robin ****
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | seat back handle improvement? |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned
that the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could
slow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | More on GoPro Mounts |
I found this scheme on Van's Air Force I think.
The mount is the standard go pro flat adhesive base but with backing still
on adhesive. The adhesive pad acts as a paint protector/cushion. A hole is
drilled in the mount and countersunk. I have used on the top and the bottom
of the wing using a longer fuel tank screw to hold it on. At cruise and in
the pattern no issues and pretty stable - sometimes I can tell the automatic
stabilization is kicking in on the camera or rather not keeping up with a
slight vibe.
-Chris Lucas
N919AR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seat back handle improvement? |
Mine are positioned to stick back into the footwell, on the outboard
sides. They're pretty easy to get to from just about everywhere.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 5:44 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned
> that the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could
> slow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | seat back handle improvement? |
Rob,
Not sure you are speaking of this handle but the photo attached is of my fr
ont seat position adjustment handles prior to install. I have always had th
em and thought they were a huge improvement over the stock design. I am not
sure how beneficial they would be for a rear passenger to access for emerg
ency egress. If you were to design a set yourself you could place a rear fa
cing handle extension that one pushes down?
The first generation handle extensions were made of thin walled square tubi
ng. Thicker tubing improved the longevity substantially.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned t
hat the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could sl
ow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Lynn,
I dislike anything on the glare shield. I won't even fly (build) with a das
h or pole mounted compass. RV's have such great visibility why gunk it up w
ith random odds & ends. Over time you will add, remove antenna and I prefer
to do that out of sight. Just keeping it clean!
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS Shelf FWF
For me it was just assedics, they work well under the cowl and are out of s
ight.
Bruce 151BJ in the paint shop
________________________________
From: Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com<mailto:flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS Shelf FWF
Just curious ..... why not put the GPS antennas on the glareshield???
Linn
On 3/12/2013 2:55 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
Someone on the RV-10 list shared a photo of their GPS shelf mounted FWF tha
t had 4+ GPS antenna mounted. I recall the shelf was painted black and conn
ected the firewall with the motor mount? Can the owner share the photo agai
n with the group? I need something similar for my 8A and cannot locate the
post.
Thanks,
Robin
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com/>
03/12/13
-========================
===================
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat back handle improvement? |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Ah, Dave, you made me feel dumb. I didn't even think to reposition the
handles! A perfect $0 solution. Thanks...
-Rob
On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 7:25 PM, Dave Saylor <
dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> wrote:
> dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
>
> Mine are positioned to stick back into the footwell, on the outboard
> sides. They're pretty easy to get to from just about everywhere.
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 5:44 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> > Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned
> > that the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could
> > slow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
> >
> > -Rob
> >
> > --
> > Rob Kochman
> > RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> > Woodinville, WA
> > http://kochman.net/N819K
> >
> >
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat back handle improvement? |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Robin, I'm talking about the other handle, though I was thinking about
replacing the other one. That said, I don't adjust it frequently.
Thanks...
On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 8:23 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Rob,****
>
> Not sure you are speaking of this handle but the photo attached is of my
> front seat position adjustment handles prior to install. I have always had
> them and thought they were a huge improvement over the stock design. I am
> not sure how beneficial they would be for a rear passenger to access for
> emergency egress. If you were to design a set yourself you could place a
> rear facing handle extension that one pushes down?****
>
> The first generation handle extensions were made of thin walled square
> tubing. Thicker tubing improved the longevity substantially.****
>
> ** **
>
> Good luck,****
>
> Robin****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kochman
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:44 PM
> *To:* rv10-list
> *Subject:* RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?****
>
> ** **
>
> Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned
> that the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could
> slow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...****
>
> ** **
>
> -Rob
> ****
>
> ** **
>
> -- ****
>
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011****
>
> Woodinville, WA****
>
> http://kochman.net/N819K****
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> ==============**** V10-List Email Forum -**** > :p> /o:p> tor?RV10-List">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List**** ==============****bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> **** :p> tp://forums.matronics.com**** ==============**** bsp; - List
> Contribution Web Site -**** e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List
> Admin.**** bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution****=============
> ****
>
> * *
>
> ------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> r>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Shelf FWF |
Thanks Robin. I feel as you do .... wanted to not install the front
cabin top brace for the same reason. I learned from others that they
use it a lot .... so in it goes.
One problem I have flying my traumahawk ..... there's nothing to use to
'aim' the airplane to keep it on track. I have two small pucks for GPS
antennas .... and was thinking of mounting them on the glareshield as a
'sight'.
Again, thanks for the reply.
Linn .... still learning
On 3/12/2013 11:32 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Lynn,
>
> I dislike anything on the glare shield. I won't even fly (build) with
> a dash or pole mounted compass. RV's have such great visibility why
> gunk it up with random odds & ends. Over time you will add, remove
> antenna and I prefer to do that out of sight. Just keeping it clean!
>
> Robin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Lynn,
I recall the brace conversation. I as much as just about anyone didn't want
the brace there till I flew the 10. The brace is invaluable for getting in
and out, for stabilization during turbulence and for routing wires from my
overhead console. I'm embarrassed to say I love the brace now.
Might I suggest you consider installing flush defrost fans and use those as
your aiming device and move the small GPS pucks to the FWF? Occasionally I
can see the reflection of my black computer fan grills on the windscreen.
It looks kind of like a machine gun site.
Another option is to press the Heading button on the AP and not worry about
the site. Over time you will be comfortable flying a plane you built with
your own hands w/o the need for a site line.
Good luck with your choices.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS Shelf FWF
Thanks Robin. I feel as you do .... wanted to not install the front cabin
top brace for the same reason. I learned from others that they use it a lo
t .... so in it goes.
One problem I have flying my traumahawk ..... there's nothing to use to 'ai
m' the airplane to keep it on track. I have two small pucks for GPS antenn
as .... and was thinking of mounting them on the glareshield as a 'sight'.
Again, thanks for the reply.
Linn .... still learning
On 3/12/2013 11:32 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
Lynn,
I dislike anything on the glare shield. I won't even fly (build) with a das
h or pole mounted compass. RV's have such great visibility why gunk it up w
ith random odds & ends. Over time you will add, remove antenna and I prefer
to do that out of sight. Just keeping it clean!
Robin
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat back handle improvement? |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Mine are on the inside of the seats (vs between the seat and the door). It is
a little inconvenient reaching over the seat at times, but I liked it better than
trying to get at it between the door and the seat.
It is very easy for the rear seat pax to reach...
I like the idea of pointing them backwards on the onboard side, never thought of
that!
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 sold :-(
RV-10 flying :-)
KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
On Mar 12, 2013, at 10:25 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> Mine are positioned to stick back into the footwell, on the outboard
> sides. They're pretty easy to get to from just about everywhere.
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 5:44 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>> Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned
>> that the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could
>> slow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
>>
>> -Rob
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>> Woodinville, WA
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS Shelf FWF |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cabin top trimming data point |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
William, I don't have any idea what grit it is. I attached a photo which
should help. I would say that the grit could have been more coarse which
would have made it cut even faster. The blade is pretty beat up now. I
was in a machine shop/tool place yesterday and they had similar blades, so
they must be available. Certainlt a tile installtion place would know
where to get them.
Good luck, Rick
On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 9:44 AM, William Greenley wrote:
> What grit of carbide blade did you find worked best for you?
>
> On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 10:04 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
>> Guys, I started trimming the cabin top today and made 2 discoveries. 1)
>> as others have found normal jig saw blades dull incredibly quickly. 2) I
>> also tried a carbide jig saw blade I purchased years ago to cut ceramic
>> tile. This blade was mounted in my Makita jig saw and worked great. I
>> completed all the rough trimming in probably a 1/2 hour, and with little
>> dust compared to a rotary tool.
>>
>> Unfortunately I have no idea where I purchased this blade now but if you
>> can find one, give it a try.
>>
>> Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
| Subject: | seat back handle improvement? |
Robin,
Where did you get your seat handles from?
Jim
N10KQ
81.5 hrs
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Rob,
Not sure you are speaking of this handle but the photo attached is of my
front seat position adjustment handles prior to install. I have always had
them and thought they were a huge improvement over the stock design. I am
not sure how beneficial they would be for a rear passenger to access for
emergency egress. If you were to design a set yourself you could place a
rear facing handle extension that one pushes down?
The first generation handle extensions were made of thin walled square
tubing. Thicker tubing improved the longevity substantially.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned
that the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could
slow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
=============
V10-List Email Forum -
>
:p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:p>
tp://forums.matronics.com
=============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
r>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | seat back handle improvement? |
Jim,
So sorry I don't recall. Anyone else know on the list?
Regardless the first set didn't last due to thin wall design. We remade the
m ourselves with better material for near nothing. I suggest you do the sam
e. It should take very little time to duplicate the units pictured in the p
rior email. I really like this simple mod and it is used twice on every fli
ght. I recall the stock Vans design is a bit of a knuckle scraper.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of JimVillani
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Robin,
Where did you get your seat handles from?
Jim
N10KQ
81.5 hrs
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
in Marks
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Rob,
Not sure you are speaking of this handle but the photo attached is of my fr
ont seat position adjustment handles prior to install. I have always had th
em and thought they were a huge improvement over the stock design. I am not
sure how beneficial they would be for a rear passenger to access for emerg
ency egress. If you were to design a set yourself you could place a rear fa
cing handle extension that one pushes down?
The first generation handle extensions were made of thin walled square tubi
ng. Thicker tubing improved the longevity substantially.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
Kochman
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned t
hat the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could sl
ow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
=============
V10-List Email Forum -
>
:p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:p>
tp://forums.matronics.com
=============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
r>
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
| Subject: | seat back handle improvement? |
Absolutely.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 7:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Jim,
So sorry I don't recall. Anyone else know on the list?
Regardless the first set didn't last due to thin wall design. We remade them
ourselves with better material for near nothing. I suggest you do the same.
It should take very little time to duplicate the units pictured in the prior
email. I really like this simple mod and it is used twice on every flight. I
recall the stock Vans design is a bit of a knuckle scraper.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JimVillani
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Robin,
Where did you get your seat handles from?
Jim
N10KQ
81.5 hrs
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Rob,
Not sure you are speaking of this handle but the photo attached is of my
front seat position adjustment handles prior to install. I have always had
them and thought they were a huge improvement over the stock design. I am
not sure how beneficial they would be for a rear passenger to access for
emergency egress. If you were to design a set yourself you could place a
rear facing handle extension that one pushes down?
The first generation handle extensions were made of thin walled square
tubing. Thicker tubing improved the longevity substantially.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned
that the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could
slow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
=============
V10-List Email Forum -
>
:p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:p>
tp://forums.matronics.com
=============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
r>
=============
V10-List Email Forum -
>
:p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:p>
tp://forums.matronics.com
=============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
:p>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Shelf FWF |
32 years ago I built my Pitts S-1 ..... and it never stays on heading
more than a few seconds .. :-D
I was planning on fans ..... and promptly forgot them. Thanks for the
reminder!!!!
You also reminded me about those hardpoints on the wings .........
Linn
On 3/13/2013 2:13 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Lynn,
>
> I recall the brace conversation. I as much as just about anyone didn't
> want the brace there till I flew the 10. The brace is invaluable for
> getting in and out, for stabilization during turbulence and for
> routing wires from my overhead console. I'm embarrassed to say I love
> the brace now.
>
> Might I suggest you consider installing flush defrost fans and use
> those as your aiming device and move the small GPS pucks to the FWF?
> Occasionally I can see the reflection of my black computer fan grills
> on the windscreen. It looks kind of like a machine gun site.
>
> Another option is to press the Heading button on the AP and not worry
> about the site. Over time you will be comfortable flying a plane you
> built with your own hands w/o the need for a site line.
>
> Good luck with your choices.
>
> Robin
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Linn
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 12, 2013 10:17 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: GPS Shelf FWF
>
> Thanks Robin. I feel as you do .... wanted to not install the front
> cabin top brace for the same reason. I learned from others that they
> use it a lot .... so in it goes.
> One problem I have flying my traumahawk ..... there's nothing to use
> to 'aim' the airplane to keep it on track. I have two small pucks for
> GPS antennas .... and was thinking of mounting them on the glareshield
> as a 'sight'.
> Again, thanks for the reply.
> Linn .... still learning
>
> On 3/12/2013 11:32 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Lynn,
>
> I dislike anything on the glare shield. I won't even fly (build)
> with a dash or pole mounted compass. RV's have such great
> visibility why gunk it up with random odds & ends. Over time you
> will add, remove antenna and I prefer to do that out of sight.
> Just keeping it clean!
>
> Robin
>
> * *
> * *
> ==============V10-List Email Forum -> :p> /o:p>
> tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List==============bsp;
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -:p>
> tp://forums.matronics.com==============bsp; - List Contribution Web
> Site -e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List
> Admin.bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=============
> * *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> r>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | seat back handle improvement? |
Greg Hale originally did the design and I believe Steve DiNeri is selling t
hem. http://capsteve.wix.com/iflyrv10
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of JimVillani
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 9:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Robin,
Where did you get your seat handles from?
Jim
N10KQ
81.5 hrs
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
in Marks
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Rob,
Not sure you are speaking of this handle but the photo attached is of my fr
ont seat position adjustment handles prior to install. I have always had th
em and thought they were a huge improvement over the stock design. I am not
sure how beneficial they would be for a rear passenger to access for emerg
ency egress. If you were to design a set yourself you could place a rear fa
cing handle extension that one pushes down?
The first generation handle extensions were made of thin walled square tubi
ng. Thicker tubing improved the longevity substantially.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
Kochman
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: seat back handle improvement?
Anyone know of a better solution for the seat back handle? I'm concerned t
hat the handle may be hard to reach quickly in an emergency, which could sl
ow down egress from the rear seats. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
=============
V10-List Email Forum -
>
:p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:p>
tp://forums.matronics.com
=============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
r>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
They're not as slick as Robin's but these 2" extensions work a lot better th
an the stock T handle position. They're pretty easy to make. If anybody wan
ts some let me know and we'll make a batch.
--Dave