RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ji
April 05, 2013 - May 01, 2013
| Subject: | Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Nice airplane!
You obviously have different rules there than in the US (passenger on board).
Do you have anything equivalent to the US phase 1?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397909#397909
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | AEROLED RFI - was RV8-List: Landing/Taxi Light Options |
On the AeroLED choice, I found the wingtip NAV/Strobe units create a lot of
RFI, the nav light much more than the strobe. Dean Wilkinson at AeroLED was
helpful however, and provided recommendations on how to limit the
interference. Bottom line:
. Use three conductor, 20 gauge shielded wire, the shield grounded
to the airframe at both ends of the run.
. At the unit itself, install a aluminum plate on the inside of the
wingtip - the plate is held in via the AeroLED mounting screws.
. Connect the unit's black ground wire to this plate - and then the
electric ground from your three conductor shielded lead to the same point.
The objective is to make the black ground wire on the AEROLED electrically
connected to the unit case with as short a lead as possible. The case
electrically connects to the aluminum backing plate via the mounting screws.
Don't just ground at the mounting screw without the aluminum plate - I tried
this and it did not work.
After doing all this I eliminated the noise to a point where it is no longer
a problem in the radios. I do however have my nav antenna in the wingtip.
With the nav LED on, I do hear the interference but it is not bad. I
mounted the wingtip nav antenna as far aft in the wingtip as possible. I
still hear VORs out 90+ miles so I'm good. Considering I don't use VORs for
much of anything this really has no practical impact.
Below is the photo Dean sent me of what one of his customer did (I recommend
a bigger backing plate however). I attached a photo of what I did.
BTW - the units themselves work very well. This is still a much better way
to go over the old incandescent lights and strobe tubes.
Carl
RV-8A (700 hrs)
RV-10 (70 hrs)
http://imageshack.us/a/img713/2052/img2180t.jpg
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of stazel(at)cpros.com
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 2:59 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Landing/Taxi Light Options
I would like some feedback on this subject as it is one of the loose ends in
planning my electrical system. I have settled on AeroLED for the position
lights/strobes, but am having difficulty sorting through all the
landing/taxi light options. Plan A would be to use LED lights in the tips,
but I am not sure what all will or will not fit there. Although I
understand that leading edge lights are an easy installation, I would just
prefer not to incur the additional work to do the leading edge cutouts.
Another question: Given the landing attitude of the 8, are separate
landing and taxi lights required? Seems to me that maybe a combination of
the right output and targeting angle could work using single light sources
in each tip.
Stan Loer
RV8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
| Subject: | Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Hi folks,
I am psyching myself up for some bodywork and am looking for guidance on
how to do this properly so the filler doesn't all flake off the week
after the paint job is finished.
Can anyone recommend or point me towards the magic recipe for finishing
around the edges of the door frame and fuselage and for raising the
level of the area between the door frame and the rear cabin vents so it
matches the door outer surface?
Without any better insight I am currently intending to phosphoric acid
etch the aluminum wherever filling is required (ie. everywhere inside
the red tape in the photo), and then to bond a thin fiberglass tape over
the screws, edges and blind rivets to prevent any filler chipping /
falling out in case of poor bonding.
I am also considering a thin layer of glass cloth as a foundation for
the filler in the larger area above, below and in front of the vent.
What is the experience using epoxy / micro filler directly on etched
aluminum without using the cloth / tape?
ANd finally, should I be worried about the phosphoric acid getting under
rivet heads and not being flushed out properly?
Any and all comments gratefully received!
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Finishing door frame and bodywork |
I sanded.....that area of my plane looks good..but don't use me as an
example of how to do the windows..they look like _______ fill in the blank.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon Anderson
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 2:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing door frame and bodywork
Hi folks,
I am psyching myself up for some bodywork and am looking for guidance on how
to do this properly so the filler doesn't all flake off the week after the
paint job is finished.
Can anyone recommend or point me towards the magic recipe for finishing
around the edges of the door frame and fuselage and for raising the level of
the area between the door frame and the rear cabin vents so it matches the
door outer surface?
Without any better insight I am currently intending to phosphoric acid etch
the aluminum wherever filling is required (ie. everywhere inside the red
tape in the photo), and then to bond a thin fiberglass tape over the screws,
edges and blind rivets to prevent any filler chipping / falling out in case
of poor bonding.
I am also considering a thin layer of glass cloth as a foundation for the
filler in the larger area above, below and in front of the vent. What is
the experience using epoxy / micro filler directly on etched aluminum
without using the cloth / tape?
ANd finally, should I be worried about the phosphoric acid getting under
rivet heads and not being flushed out properly?
Any and all comments gratefully received!
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I too was very anxious when I was at your stage of the build. It's most fear of
the unknown and learning a new skill. I was fortunate enough that fiberglass
sanding was something my wife did almost exclusively.
I didn't etch, but do make sure everything is clean and scuffed up. That will
give the epoxy something to hold
Only use micro to fill cosmetic voids. If you need to build something up, like
the flat spot that appears to be on all canopies ( rear door frame in the middle
of window).
I did fill the heads of the blind rivets and the gap between the aluminum with
micro to level, then covered with a layer of glass. I did something similar around
the windows too. Then just use micro to level and blend the two surfaces.
You don't want to build up around the vent. Make sure smooth out forward and above
the vents. Otherwise it's going to be very visible.
I do have pictures on mykitlog.com site, but I don't know how helpful they will
be.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 5, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
Hi folks,
I am psyching myself up for some bodywork and am looking for guidance on how to
do this properly so the filler doesn't all flake off the week after the paint
job is finished.
Can anyone recommend or point me towards the magic recipe for finishing around
the edges of the door frame and fuselage and for raising the level of the area
between the door frame and the rear cabin vents so it matches the door outer
surface?
Without any better insight I am currently intending to phosphoric acid etch the
aluminum wherever filling is required (ie. everywhere inside the red tape in
the photo), and then to bond a thin fiberglass tape over the screws, edges and
blind rivets to prevent any filler chipping / falling out in case of poor bonding.
I am also considering a thin layer of glass cloth as a foundation for the filler
in the larger area above, below and in front of the vent. What is the experience
using epoxy / micro filler directly on etched aluminum without using the
cloth / tape?
ANd finally, should I be worried about the phosphoric acid getting under rivet
heads and not being flushed out properly?
Any and all comments gratefully received!
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Hi Gordon,
You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil or
similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number
of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a layer of
glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and the
cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider using
something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd
suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The
flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
on.
I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a
little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not
familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
Good Luck,
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I am psyching myself up for some bodywork and am looking for guidance on
> how to do this properly so the filler doesn't all flake off the week after
> the paint job is finished.
>
> Can anyone recommend or point me towards the magic recipe for finishing
> around the edges of the door frame and fuselage and for raising the level
> of the area between the door frame and the rear cabin vents so it matches
> the door outer surface?
>
> Without any better insight I am currently intending to phosphoric acid
> etch the aluminum wherever filling is required (ie. everywhere inside the
> red tape in the photo), and then to bond a thin fiberglass tape over the
> screws, edges and blind rivets to prevent any filler chipping / falling out
> in case of poor bonding.
>
> I am also considering a thin layer of glass cloth as a foundation for the
> filler in the larger area above, below and in front of the vent. What is
> the experience using epoxy / micro filler directly on etched aluminum
> without using the cloth / tape?
>
> ANd finally, should I be worried about the phosphoric acid getting under
> rivet heads and not being flushed out properly?
>
> Any and all comments gratefully received!
>
> Gordon Anderson
> 41015 Switzerland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing.
It's much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so
fast. So far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
Bill
On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> Hi Gordon,
>
> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>
> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil
> or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly
> in sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for
> a number of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives
> you a break ;-)
>
> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a
> layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the
> window and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to
> show up there.
>
> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
> using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic.
> I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked
> cotton). The flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to
> overlay that with filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain
> epoxy before the flox goes on.
>
> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
> Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be
> a little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm
> not familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
I use polyester filler (Bondo from the auto parts store) here and there,
especially when I need to hurry things along. But only in small areas,
because it's relatively heavy, and then I always overlay it with glass.
While I don't have any long-term test results, my sense is that bondo
tends to shrink over time and cause the paint to crack. I'm not too
concerned if that happens underneath a layer of glass, in non-structural
areas. For example, I sometimes use micro/epoxy as a replacement for foam
or honeycomb core, but I wouldn't use bondo there for fear it might
eventually delaminate from the outer skins.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
> the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's
> much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So
> far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>
> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>
> Bill
>
> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> Hi Gordon,
>
> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>
> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil or
> similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
> sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number
> of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>
> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a layer
> of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and the
> cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>
> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
> using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd
> suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The
> flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
> filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
> on.
>
> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
> Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a
> little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not
> familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 04/06/13
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluing
fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc,
pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is
relatively easy to break free and sand off.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
> the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's
> much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So
> far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>
> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>
> Bill
>
>
> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> Hi Gordon,
>
> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>
> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil or
> similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
> sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number
> of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>
> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a layer
> of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and the
> cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>
> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
> using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd
> suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The
> flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
> filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
> on.
>
> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
> Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a
> little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not
> familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 04/06/13
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 maintenance tip |
When I built my 10, the plans called for construction of 4 spacers each
wheel made from aluminum tubing. these spacers were compressed between the
brake torque plate and the inboard wheel pant bracket. Over time these ,
since they are thin walled tubes, compress and the disc rotor did not always
run true. This seems to cause an occasional shaking in the brake rotor or
brake pad wear is not uniform. I just installed a Matco main wheel/brake
setup. As a result, the spacing between the bracket and the torque plate
changed slightly and I had to purchase new spacers. I got them from McMaster
Carr. They are OD 1/2" ID 1/4" .750 in length; these seemed to allow
completely true running of the rotors and calipers and no occasional
vibration. The wall thickness of the spacers was 1/8". My original
wheel/brakes were the Cleveland 199-104 set.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Thanks for the comments and support.
Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans
under the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
Cheers,
Gordon
On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for
gluing fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables,
etc, pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and
is relatively easy to break free and sand off.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson
wrote:
> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing.
It's much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so
fast. So far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>
> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>
> Bill
>
>
> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> Hi Gordon,
>>
>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>
>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil
or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a
number of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you
a break ;-)
>>
>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a
layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the
window and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to
show up there.
>>
>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic.
I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton).
The flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that
with filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the
flox goes on.
>>
>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something
like Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd
be a little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but
I'm not familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 04/06/13
>>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your etch
solution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant something
like Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't thing I'd bother
with it for a little bodywork--I've had good success with just a light
scuff and degreasing. I >would< use it under the windshield fairing since
that area is more critical.
I hope that clears things up a little.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
> Thanks for the comments and support.
>
> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans under
> the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gordon
>
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluing
> fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc,
> pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is
> relatively easy to break free and sand off.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
>> the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's
>> much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So
>> far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>
>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>> Hi Gordon,
>>
>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>
>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil
>> or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
>> sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number
>> of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>>
>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a
>> layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window
>> and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up
>> there.
>>
>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
>> using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd
>> suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The
>> flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
>> filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
>> on.
>>
>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
>> Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a
>> little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not
>> familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 04/06/13
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listtp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Dave,
Actually I had intended to take Van's at their word and just use
phosphoric acid with a water wash afterwards. I'll skip it altogether
for the small bodywork areas and try to get hold of some Alumiprep or
alodine for the windshield fairing.
Thanks for the advice,
Gordon
On Apr 7, 2013, at 8:08 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your
etch solution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant
something like Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't thing
I'd bother with it for a little bodywork--I've had good success with
just a light scuff and degreasing. I >would< use it under the
windshield fairing since that area is more critical.
>
> I hope that clears things up a little.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson
wrote:
> Thanks for the comments and support.
>
> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans
under the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gordon
>
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for
gluing fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables,
etc, pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and
is relatively easy to break free and sand off.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson
wrote:
>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially
on the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing.
It's much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so
fast. So far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>
>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>> Hi Gordon,
>>>
>>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>>
>>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like
SuperFil or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but
mostly in sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with
for a number of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it
gives you a break ;-)
>>>
>>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a
layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the
window and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to
show up there.
>>>
>>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic.
I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton).
The flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that
with filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the
flox goes on.
>>>
>>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something
like Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd
be a little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but
I'm not familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>>
>>> Good Luck,
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> 04/06/13
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
| From: | Pascal <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
I used vinegar and scorchb
On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:54 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Actually I had intended to take Van's at their word and just use phosphori
c acid with a water wash afterwards. I'll skip it altogether for the small
bodywork areas and try to get hold of some Alumiprep or alodine for the win
dshield fairing.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> Gordon
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 8:08 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your etch s
olution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant something li
ke Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't thing I'd bother with i
t for a little bodywork--I've had good success with just a light scuff and d
egreasing. I >would< use it under the windshield fairing since that area is
more critical.
>>
>> I hope that clears things up a little.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson wrot
e:
>> Thanks for the comments and support.
>>
>> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans under
the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Gordon
>>
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>>> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluing f
ixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc, pretty
regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is relatively ea
sy to break free and sand off.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson wrot
e:
>>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on t
he glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's m
uch easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So f
ar so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>>
>>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>> Hi Gordon,
>>>>
>>>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>>>
>>>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil o
r similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in sand
ing off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number of r
easons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>>>>
>>>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a laye
r of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and th
e cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>>>>
>>>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider usi
ng something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd sugg
est a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). T
he flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with f
iller too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes on
.
>>>>
>>>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like S
cotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a littl
e concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not familiar
with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>>>
>>>> Good Luck,
>>>>
>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> No virus found in this message.
>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>> 04/06/13
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
>>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
Try this again
I used vinegar abs scotchbrite pads to rough up the areas that were primed f
or resin and eventually paint. Seems to have worked well. One must assure th
e area is cleaned before putting anything on. Soap and water than eventually
acetone for resin prep.
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 7, 2013, at 1:26 PM, "Pascal" wrote:
> I used vinegar and scorchb
>
>
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:54 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>>
>> Actually I had intended to take Van's at their word and just use phosphor
ic acid with a water wash afterwards. I'll skip it altogether for the smal
l bodywork areas and try to get hold of some Alumiprep or alodine for the wi
ndshield fairing.
>>
>> Thanks for the advice,
>>
>> Gordon
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2013, at 8:08 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>>> Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your etch s
olution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant something li
ke Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't thing I'd bother with i
t for a little bodywork--I've had good success with just a light scuff and d
egreasing. I >would< use it under the windshield fairing since that area is
more critical.
>>>
>>> I hope that clears things up a little.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson wro
te:
>>>> Thanks for the comments and support.
>>>>
>>>> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans und
er the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Gordon
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluin
g fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc, pre
tty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is relatively
easy to break free and sand off.
>>>>>
>>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson wr
ote:
>>>>>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially o
n the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It'
s much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. S
o far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>>>>> Hi Gordon,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFi
l or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in s
anding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number o
f reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a l
ayer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and
the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider u
sing something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd su
ggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The flox
leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with filler t
oo. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
on.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something li
ke Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a l
ittle concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not fami
liar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Good Luck,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>>>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> No virus found in this message.
>>>>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>>>>> 04/06/13
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>>>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>>>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>>>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
=========
>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> =========================
=========
>> cs.com
>> =========================
=========
>> matronics.com/contribution
>> =========================
=========
>>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
The phosphoric acid (Aluminum etch, aluminum bright etc.) cleans the
surface of the aluminum and removes some of the natural corrosion
present. Alodine is a conversion material that seals the aluminum and
makes the surface harder to resist the corrosion down the road. You
should clean with soap and water (dish soap works wonders) and some
downey fabric softener .... which helps the aluminum wet out, along with
red scotchbrite. Then acid etch and alodine. The alodine also gives a
little 'tooth' to help paint adhere.
This process has worked wonders for me for many years.
Linn
On 4/7/2013 3:54 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Actually I had intended to take Van's at their word and just use
> phosphoric acid with a water wash afterwards. I'll skip it
> altogether for the small bodywork areas and try to get hold of some
> Alumiprep or alodine for the windshield fairing.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> Gordon
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 8:08 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your
>> etch solution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant
>> something like Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't
>> thing I'd bother with it for a little bodywork--I've had good success
>> with just a light scuff and degreasing. I >would< use it under
>> the windshield fairing since that area is more critical.
>>
>> I hope that clears things up a little.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson > > wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the comments and support.
>>
>> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by
>> Vans under the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Gordon
>>
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>>> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for
>>> gluing fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to
>>> tables, etc, pretty regularly. Works great for that since it
>>> sets up fast and is relatively easy to break free and sand off.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do,
>>> especially on the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler
>>> for the final smoothing. It's much easier to use and much
>>> more productive because it hardens so fast. So far so good
>>> after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>>
>>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>> Hi Gordon,
>>>>
>>>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>>>
>>>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler
>>>> like SuperFil or similar instead of making your own. Not
>>>> just in mixing but mostly in sanding off the excess.
>>>> Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number of
>>>> reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives
>>>> you a break ;-)
>>>>
>>>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it
>>>> with a layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond
>>>> line between the window and the cabin top you'll prevent
>>>> the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>>>>
>>>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might
>>>> consider using something tougher than filler. That area
>>>> sees a lot of traffic. I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture
>>>> of flox (also called flocked cotton). The flox leaves a
>>>> hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
>>>> filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy
>>>> before the flox goes on.
>>>>
>>>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with
>>>> something like Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be
>>>> more than adequate. I'd be a little concerned about
>>>> getting all the etching material off--but I'm not familiar
>>>> with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>>>
>>>> Good Luck,
>>>>
>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> No virus found in this message.
>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/>
>>>> 04/06/13
>>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
in Alberta, Canada.
I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for
his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass
seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how to
build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual building
process. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was quite
literally pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: A Plane is born |
Hi Again
I almost forgot - A very Special Thanks to David Maib with whom I did my
transition training! He is an outstanding instructor.
Cheers
Les
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: April-07-13 11:28 PM
Subject: A Plane is born
Hi
After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
in Alberta, Canada.
I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for
his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass
seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how to
build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual building
process. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was quite
literally pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Congratulations Les!
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 8, 2013, at 1:28 AM, "Les Kearney" wrote:
> Hi
>
> After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
in Alberta, Canada.
>
> I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for h
is website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass se
minar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how to b
uild a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual building pro
cess. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was quite literal
ly pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> #40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
That=99s a small rotation for a man ... giant birth ... etc.!
Awesome, Les! Post pics/ video when you can. At least more details.
Later, =93 Lew
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
| From: | Bill Gipson <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com> |
Way to go Les. Hope everything went well with first flight and few minor sq
uawks. Let us know how she flew.
Bill
Sent from my iPhone
Bill Gipson
On Apr 8, 2013, at 12:33 AM, "Les Kearney" wrote:
> Hi
>
> After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
in Alberta, Canada.
>
> I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for h
is website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass se
minar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how to b
uild a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual building pro
cess. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was quite literal
ly pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> #40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
Congratulations Les!
Can't wait to see it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 11:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A Plane is born
Hi
After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose
Airport in Alberta, Canada.
I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson
for his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his
fiberglass seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help.
Learning how to build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than
the actual building process. Having access to the collective wisdom of
this group was quite literally pricesless. In every sense you were my
build partners.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
Congratulations Les! Keep up the good work and fly safe!
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 10:28 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi****
>
> ** **
>
> After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
> in Alberta, Canada.****
>
> ** **
>
> I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for
> his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass
> seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how
> to build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual
> building process. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was
> quite literally pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.***
> *
>
> ** **
>
> Cheers****
>
> ** **
>
> Les Kearney****
>
> #40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!! ****
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Congratulations mate, I wish you safe skies and tailwinds.
Your assistance with the composite cabin door frame and seal advice has insp
ired me Les, thank you.
Warm regards from down under.
Patrick
On 08/04/2013, at 2:58 PM, "Les Kearney" wrote:
> Hi
>
> After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
in Alberta, Canada.
>
> I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for h
is website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass se
minar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how to b
uild a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual building pro
cess. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was quite literal
ly pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> #40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
Hey congrats Les, tell us about the flight!
Tim
On 4/8/2013 12:28 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
> After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose
> Airport in Alberta, Canada.
>
> I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson
> for his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his
> fiberglass seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help.
> Learning how to build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than
> the actual building process. Having access to the collective wisdom of
> this group was quite literally pricesless. In every sense you were my
> build partners.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Congratulations Les! Pictures?
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398140#398140
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
Hi
Here is the pix with the obligatory RV grin. I have a vido but it is very large.
I also need to get my daughter to clean it up a bit before I post it.
The chap in the right seat is local flight instructor. In Canada it is legal to
have an instructor aboard during the fly off period. He took care of comms and
help monitor the engine parameters for the flight. My engine is a 3.6L Subaru
Tribeca with a 4 blade Quinti / Sensenich prop so there was a lot to keep an
eye on during the first flight. I was wowed by how smooth and quite the engine
was on takeoff!
Exterior pix are not all that interesting as I haven't done paint yet. It is very
much a "coat of many colours" as my focus has been on getting airworthy and
not pretty. I will post a couple later.
I am following the test flight syllabus laid out in Jerry Milek's "Test Flight Checklist" which can be found at www.javifix.com. It is well worth the cost. First flight lasted, by design, for about 11 minutes. The plan was to to check controls *gently* and then return to ground to check for leaks etc in the engine compartment. Based on the syllabus, each flight builds on the previous in a highly structured way. The intent is to carefully and methodically test the aircraft with a minimum of risk.
Cheers
Les
RV10 C-GCWZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
I've been using a so-called higher quality polyester filler, Metal
Glaze, to do the final-final smoothing on some areas. Otherwise I've
stuck to epoxy with micro or premixed epoxy filler. Will keep
monitoring the results.
Thanks.
On 4/6/2013 6:09 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> I use polyester filler (Bondo from the auto parts store) here and
> there, especially when I need to hurry things along. But only in
> small areas, because it's relatively heavy, and then I always overlay
> it with glass. While I don't have any long-term test results, my
> sense is that bondo tends to shrink over time and cause the paint to
> crack. I'm not too concerned if that happens underneath a layer of
> glass, in non-structural areas. For example, I sometimes use
> micro/epoxy as a replacement for foam or honeycomb core, but I
> wouldn't use bondo there for fear it might eventually delaminate from
> the outer skins.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson > wrote:
>
> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do,
> especially on the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the
> final smoothing. It's much easier to use and much more productive
> because it hardens so fast. So far so good after a 1.5 years of
> flying.
>
> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>
> Bill
>
> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> Hi Gordon,
>>
>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>
>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like
>> SuperFil or similar instead of making your own. Not just in
>> mixing but mostly in sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot
>> easier to deal with for a number of reasons. SuperFil takes a
>> long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>>
>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with
>> a layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between
>> the window and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks
>> that tend to show up there.
>>
>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might
>> consider using something tougher than filler. That area sees a
>> lot of traffic. I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also
>> called flocked cotton). The flox leaves a hard and rough surface
>> so leave room to overlay that with filler too. Be sure to wet
>> the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes on.
>>
>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something
>> like Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than
>> adequate. I'd be a little concerned about getting all the
>> etching material off--but I'm not familiar with the process so
>> maybe that's just me.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>> 04/06/13
>>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Les: Congratulations! As a fellow auto-engine builder, I know how much extra
time is involved in getting to flight. A major achievement on your part!
My Mazda 20B rotary is still in the 'build all the external support pieces to
the engine' phase. Hope this warm season will allow getting to a running engine
point.
Phil in IL
ps: Photo did not post. Try again.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398151#398151
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
Welcome to the other side.... As you will soon discover, the RV10 has to be
one of the greatest planes around.... in all aspects.- Congrats.
Don McDonald
500+
--- On Mon, 4/8/13, LES KEARNEY wrote:
From: LES KEARNEY <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: A Plane is born
Date: Monday, April 8, 2013, 9:51 AM
Hi
Here is the pix with the obligatory RV grin. I have a vido but it is very l
arge. I also need to get my daughter to clean it up a bit before I post it.
The chap in the right seat is local flight instructor. In Canada it is lega
l to have an instructor aboard during the fly off period. He took care of c
omms and help monitor the engine parameters for the flight. My engine is a
3.6L Subaru Tribeca with a 4 blade Quinti / Sensenich prop so there was a l
ot to keep an eye on during the first flight. I was wowed by how smooth and
quite the engine was on takeoff!
Exterior pix are not all that interesting as I haven't done paint yet. It i
s very much a "coat of many colours" as my focus has been on getting airwor
thy and not pretty. I will post a couple later.
I am following the test flight syllabus laid out in Jerry Milek's "Test Fli
ght Checklist" which can be found at www.javifix.com. It is well worth the
cost. First flight lasted, by design, for about 11 minutes. The plan was to
to check controls *gently* and then return to ground to check for leaks et
c in the engine compartment. Based on the syllabus, each flight builds on t
he previous in a highly structured way. The intent is to carefully and meth
odically test the aircraft with a minimum of risk.
Cheers
Les
RV10 C-GCWZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
A big congratulations!!
On 4/8/2013 1:28 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose
> Airport in Alberta, Canada.
>
> I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson
> for his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his
> fiberglass seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for
> help. Learning how to build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer
> than the actual building process. Having access to the collective
> wisdom of this group was quite literally pricesless. In every sense
> you were my build partners.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School in my |
RV10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School in |
my RV10
On 4/8/2013 1:40 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
Nevermind. Can't seem to cut and paste posting into this forum. Giving up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Congratulations Les! For some reason, I cannot access the photo, but I can imagine
what that grin looks like! Have fun working through your test program. I hope
to get a ride in your airplane someday.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398205#398205
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 10 Aileron Trim |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Does anyone have strong opinion pro or con regarding aileron trim for RV10 (in
addition to autopilot)?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398310#398310
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
Yes - install it.
The Van's unit is simple, light, effective and inexpensive. While you're at it,
buy the Safety Trim unit as well - another good product. If you doing a top
hat on the stick for trim, Safety Trim is a much simpler way to go compared to
relay decks and such.
Carl
RV-8A (700 hrs)
RV-10 (70 hrs)
On Apr 10, 2013, at 1:05 AM, "bob88" wrote:
>
> Does anyone have strong opinion pro or con regarding aileron trim for RV10 (in
addition to autopilot)?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398310#398310
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I agree with Carl. The -10 is pretty sensitive to lateral imbalance. Thumbs up
for Safety Trim, as well.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398326#398326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
I'm installing aileron and rudder trim using model airplane servos
moving a short section of hinge. I used a microcontroller to create the
pulse-width signal.
Linn
On 4/10/2013 1:05 AM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Does anyone have strong opinion pro or con regarding aileron trim for RV10 (in
addition to autopilot)?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398310#398310
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
I don't use it much, but I don't let the fuel tanks get way out of balance either.....
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 10, 2013, at 1:05 AM, "bob88" wrote:
>
> Does anyone have strong opinion pro or con regarding aileron trim for RV10 (in
addition to autopilot)?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398310#398310
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You are in luck.....the Van's trim can be easily installed after the plane
is complete. So you can decide for yourself whether there is a need or not,
before purchasing.
On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:05 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Does anyone have strong opinion pro or con regarding aileron trim for RV10
> (in addition to autopilot)?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398310#398310
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Install it. It is inexpensive and easy to install. The -10 is extremely sensitive
to fuel imbalance. 5 gallons difference will make a wing heavy. Install
a Vertical power system or use the TCW safety trim, they both do an excellent
job of managing your trim controls and controlling sensitivity verses aircraft
speed.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398346#398346
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
It's worth it, so install it. As far as safety trim, I have a Vertical Power 200,
so it's already in there.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398356#398356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
never understood why VP dropped the -200, it does so much and had the
potential for so much more.. with that said, I have the same setup and can
tell you that I have used it more than expected. Last time was a couple of
pilots that for a while (full fuel) the trim helped keep the plane straight.
Worse case you have it and never need it, but get it for when you will.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: johngoodman
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 6:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim
It's worth it, so install it. As far as safety trim, I have a Vertical Power
200, so it's already in there.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398356#398356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
I suspect that it had relatively poor sales, due to the huge price
difference from its other models, esp. the VPX.
I thought about it a lot, but did not want to have yet another panel
eating screen. I'd love to see them incorporate all of the VP-200
capabilities into the VPX, perhaps as an upscale option beyond the VPX Pro.
On 4/10/2013 7:18 AM, Pascal wrote:
>
> never understood why VP dropped the -200, it does so much and had the
> potential for so much more..
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Aileron Trim |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Bob88, something that may be worth considering if you're going with Garmin
G3X displays and their new auto pilot servos. The servos have incorporated
auto trim capabilities without needing the extra auto trim box that others
had to use with the Tru Trak servos. I'm not sure how useful roll auto
trim will be, but certainly pitch auto trim is well worth the cost IMHO.
By the way, anyone want a "smokin" deal on Tru Trak RV10 servos?
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 1:05 AM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Does anyone have strong opinion pro or con regarding aileron trim for RV10
> (in addition to autopilot)?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398310#398310
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
| From: | "John Jessen" <john.m.jessen(at)gmail.com> |
Les! Way to go, man. Enjoy!
John
--------
John J
Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398449#398449
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Plane is born |
John;
Being you were my guide, via your detailed website for the tailcone (back in
2009!!) When will we be congratulating you on your completion?
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: A Plane is born
Les! Way to go, man. Enjoy!
John
--------
John J
Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398449#398449
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sun n fun Friday |
| From: | "Stephen Blank,DDS" <sblankdds(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone on east coast (Palm beach to Vero) flying to Sun n Fun Friday? I am
looking to arrive in style! Plus my C-170 engine is still on the work
bench, I'm grounded...
Steve
Stephen Blank, DDS
Port Saint Lucie, Florida
772-475-5556
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun n fun Friday |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Saturday, crack of dawn. Form fort pierce fl, if you don't get a ride on Fri
day. One seat available.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 11, 2013, at 3:19 PM, "Stephen Blank,DDS" wrote
:
> Anyone on east coast (Palm beach to Vero) flying to Sun n Fun Friday? I am
looking to arrive in style! Plus my C-170 engine is still on the work bench
, I'm grounded...
>
> Steve
>
> Stephen Blank, DDS
> Port Saint Lucie, Florida
> 772-475-5556
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trutrak GX pilot |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Anyone know which port is pitot and static on the vertical GX pilot? Top vs bottom?
We made an aluminum replacement since I over torqued the fittings on the
plastic piece and cracked the sides out. It finally showed up on my recent IFR
recert. Now I don't know how the piece was oriented since it is symmetrical.
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trutrak GX pilot |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Disregard last post. Trutrak answered.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 12, 2013, at 13:00, Seano wrote:
>
> Anyone know which port is pitot and static on the vertical GX pilot? Top vs bottom?
We made an aluminum replacement since I over torqued the fittings on the
plastic piece and cracked the sides out. It finally showed up on my recent
IFR recert. Now I don't know how the piece was oriented since it is symmetrical.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | G3X certified WAAS GPS |
Save thousands on GPS 400W installed with G3X
January 9, 2013 - posted in In the Air<http://garmin.blogs.com/promotions/i
n-the-air/>,
[G3X 2-screen]<http://featherfiles.aviary.com/2012-12-31/f77694d11/2f897e60
7236406b9108b6e1b83ca78f_hires.png>If you own a G3X flight display system o
r if you're planning to purchase a G3X, you can take advantage of special r
educed pricing on an IFR-certified GPS. Now through 12/31/13, the GPS 400W
is available for just $3,995 when installed with a G3X system.
Having a WAAS-certified navigator, like the GPS 400W, allows the pilot to f
ly GPS and LPV approaches. It also provides the WAAS position source needed
to comply with the requirements for ADS-B.
[GPS 400]<http://garmin.blogs.com/.a/6a00d83451bb7069e2017c352c549f970b-pi>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School in |
my
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Bill, how was the engine school?
Thanks - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398632#398632
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: A Plane is born |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
It is truly wonderful to hear of the completion and your addition of an
Alternate Engined RV-10 to the stable of so many versatile 4 passenger -
Experimental Built Cruisers.
On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 10:31 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi Again****
>
> ** **
>
> I almost forgot - A very Special Thanks to David Maib with whom I did my
> transition training! He is an outstanding instructor.****
>
> ** **
>
> Cheers****
>
> ** **
>
> Les****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
> *Sent:* April-07-13 11:28 PM
> *To:* 'rv10-list(at)matronics.com'
> *Subject:* A Plane is born****
>
> ** **
>
> Hi****
>
> ** **
>
> After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
> in Alberta, Canada.****
>
> ** **
>
> I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for
> his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass
> seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how
> to build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual
> building process. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was
> quite literally pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.***
> *
>
> ** **
>
> Cheers****
>
> ** **
>
> Les Kearney****
>
> #40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!! ****
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School |
in my
On 4/15/2013 7:52 AM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Bill, how was the engine school?
> Thanks - Jason
Engine school was great. I decided to attend as I began the maintenance
leg of my RV10 journey. That was a good decision. Taking it during the
build is just a distraction /unless perhaps /you are installing a used
engine that will require engine work beyond bolting it on and plumbing
it up.
The 'school' consists of 2 classes - the first is 3.5 days of classroom
going through Lycoming service pubs and an overview of engine
construction, operation and maintenance. We also did a factory
walk-thru. No hands on.
The 2nd class is 2.5 days of shop time disassembling and re-assembling
an engine. All hands on.
They schedule these two classes on adjacent weeks so that that both can
be taken together with a weekend in between. Class 1 is a pre-req to
class 2.
"Lycosaurs" indeed; Just as the basic engine designs date back to the
40s or 50s, the class sort of does too. The classroom stuff is done
with a minimum of flash and classroom technology and well, a shop is a
shop. Very nice training facility right on Williamsport airport. The
'star' of the show from my perspective was the instructor, Jim Doebler.
He taught 100% of both classes. Not knowing who else might teach it
from time to time, I would insist on him teaching my class.
Jim's been with or around Lycoming his entire career in various
capacities. But clearly he has taught this material many times and is
thoroughly knowledgeable on just about anything and everything having to
do with Lycoming engines including trouble shooting. Most important, he
is a master instructor who doesn't waste a single word. He tells some
stories but you quickly learn they all teach a point. No extra material
covered, only the most relevant. It while seemed slow paced but it
wasn't. It was paced just right.
Students in the class were primarily maintenance people working in the
field. A number of foreigners. Most students had substantial
maintenance experience. There was a sprinkling of homebuilder people as
well.
You walk out of the 1st class with a complete set of Service bulletins,
letters, and Instructions (the same box of paper you probably received
with your new engine) shipped to you home. I was not alone among the
homebuilders who felt that now, we can productively use that humongous
stack of papers instead of just storing it.
The second class ships you an overhaul manual.
What can you do after completion? Well, training someone to do engine
overhauls takes many weeks. But as a homebuilder who is not
particularly experienced with engine work, I'm confident I could do one
on mine if I so chose. More important, I feel confident that given the
proper resources, I can do whatever is required to maintain that lovely
IO-540 going forward.
I highly recommend the class to any builder who has not really worked
with aircraft engines before, but intends to perform as much maintenance
as they are comfortable with. I highly recommend getting Jim Doebler to
instruct.
Other notes:
There are few handouts. Slides covered in class are not available. You
can take phone pictures if you care too. I took copious notes (most of
the others didn't but they were experienced).
They do this class 4 times a year I believe. It gets pretty booked up
in advance but since they don't require payment until just before
class, there are often late cancellations. If you are flexible, it's
worth being on the waiting list. It's worth a call at the last possible
moment before a class to see if there were any very late dropouts. Our
class had been fully booked but there were empty seats.
Flying into the class is a great way to attend. The recommended Holiday
Inn quite nice and will shuttle you back and forth to class. You don't
need a car but a number of the students expensed one and shuttled many
of us back and forth.
Jim knows his way around the area and will suggest where to best get
lunch and dinner. However one gem unmentioned by him is the airport
restaurant, Cloud 9. That restaurant is now on my list of "stop and
eat" airport places. That restaurant, the classroom building and the
FBO are all within walking distance of one another.
Perhaps the most interesting part of the experience is seeing filled
hotels and a lot of commercial activity going on in this somewhat out of
the way place. Fracking is underway in a big way in central PA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School |
in my
Hey Bill,
Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has
been addressed here, but with different styles from different folks.
Just wondered if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
Later, =93 Lew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | IO540 hot starts |
At Sun-n-Fun I was talking to Les Staples of SkyTech fame. He's
developed a unit that he calls 'hot start' for his RV-10. Give him a
shout at les @ skytecair.com ...... remove the spaces.
Linn
On 4/15/2013 5:01 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote:
> Hey Bill,
> Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has
> been addressed here, but with different styles from different folks.
> Just wondered if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
> Later, =93 Lew
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
13
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | IO540 hot starts |
Aren't most Hot Start procedures a variation of:
Throttle / Prop Forward
Mixture Cut Off
Crank till you clear the cylinders and then slowly add Mixture?
Throttle back to 1000 RPM once firing enough to keep alive
Obviously there are variations such as a purge valve requires one to Mixtur
e Cutoff then cycle cool fuel prior to cranking.
Let the Hot Start war begin.
Robin
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com] on behalf of Linn [flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 3:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: IO540 hot starts
At Sun-n-Fun I was talking to Les Staples of SkyTech fame. He's developed
a unit that he calls 'hot start' for his RV-10. Give him a shout at les @
skytecair.com ...... remove the spaces.
Linn
On 4/15/2013 5:01 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote
:
Hey Bill,
Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has been a
ddressed here, but with different styles from different folks. Just wonder
ed if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
Later, ' Lew
om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
s.com">http://forums.matronics.com
om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
04/15/13
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School in |
my
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Thanks Bill - this sounds great. May I ask how much they charged?
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398667#398667
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School |
in my
Lew,
After about 100 hrs and numerous hot start problems, another -10 builder
put me onto this technique.
Throttle - 1/2 to 1 inch open.
Mixture - full lean
Boost pump - on
Begin cranking and simultaneously move the mixture in towards the half
way position.
As it starts firing, increase mixture slightly and may need to modulate
throttle momentarily.
Leave boost pump on for a couple of minutes after it fires.
Works every time!
grumpy
N184JM
On Apr 15, 2013, at 4:01 PM,
wrote:
> Hey Bill,
>
> Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has
been addressed here, but with different styles from different folks.
Just wondered if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
>
> Later, ' Lew
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO540 hot starts |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Ugh. I hate full throttle start attempts. That is the heavily flooded
procedure. Hazardous to your prop, hard on the engine.
No need in injected Lycomings I have flown. Do NOT use boost pump at all.
Just 1/4" to 1/2" throttle, mixt. idle cutoff, prop full, crank 6 blades
and if no fire, ease mixture slowly forward until it does fire. Been using
that for the past 14 years in my Mooney with no issues.
On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 3:19 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Aren't most Hot Start procedures a variation of:
>
> Throttle / Prop Forward
> Mixture Cut Off
> Crank till you clear the cylinders and then slowly add Mixture?
> Throttle back to 1000 RPM once firing enough to keep alive
>
> Obviously there are variations such as a purge valve requires one to
> Mixture Cutoff then cycle cool fuel prior to cranking.
>
> Let the Hot Start war begin.
>
> Robin
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] on behalf of Linn [
> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, April 15, 2013 3:06 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: IO540 hot starts
>
> At Sun-n-Fun I was talking to Les Staples of SkyTech fame. He's
> developed a unit that he calls 'hot start' for his RV-10. Give him a sho
ut
> at les @ skytecair.com ...... remove the spaces.
> Linn
>
>
> On 4/15/2013 5:01 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote:
>
> Hey Bill,
>
> Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has been
> addressed here, but with different styles from different folks. Just
> wondered if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
>
> Later, ' Lew
>
> *
>
> om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> s.com <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lists.com>">http://forums.
matronics.com
> om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 04/15/13
>
>
> *
>
> ==========
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
> *
>
> ------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> p>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School |
in my
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Your boost pump is NOT helping anything with Bendix or AFP injection
system. It only helps for Continental injection systems. Better to delay
bringing in mixture a couple seconds as it may start without it.
On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 6:16 PM, Miller John wrote:
> Lew,
>
> After about 100 hrs and numerous hot start problems, another -10 builder
> put me onto this technique.
>
> Throttle - 1/2 to 1 inch open.
>
> Mixture - full lean
>
> Boost pump - on
>
> Begin cranking and simultaneously move the mixture in towards the half wa
y
> position.
>
> As it starts firing, increase mixture slightly and may need to modulate
> throttle momentarily.
>
> Leave boost pump on for a couple of minutes after it fires.
>
> Works every time!
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
> On Apr 15, 2013, at 4:01 PM,
> wrote:
>
> Hey Bill,
>
> Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has been
> addressed here, but with different styles from different folks. Just
> wondered if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
>
> Later, ' Lew
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO540 hot starts |
I'll give it a try. I don't care for fwf much either but has always worked
. And I don't use boost Pump either.
Robin
Kelly McMullen wrote:
Ugh. I hate full throttle start attempts. That is the heavily flooded proce
dure. Hazardous to your prop, hard on the engine.
No need in injected Lycomings I have flown. Do NOT use boost pump at all. J
ust 1/4" to 1/2" throttle, mixt. idle cutoff, prop full, crank 6 blades and
if no fire, ease mixture slowly forward until it does fire. Been using tha
t for the past 14 years in my Mooney with no issues.
On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 3:19 PM, Robin Marks > wrote:
Aren't most Hot Start procedures a variation of:
Throttle / Prop Forward
Mixture Cut Off
Crank till you clear the cylinders and then slowly add Mixture?
Throttle back to 1000 RPM once firing enough to keep alive
Obviously there are variations such as a purge valve requires one to Mixtur
e Cutoff then cycle cool fuel prior to cranking.
Let the Hot Start war begin.
Robin
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] on behalf of Linn [flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 3:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: IO540 hot starts
At Sun-n-Fun I was talking to Les Staples of SkyTech fame. He's developed
a unit that he calls 'hot start' for his RV-10. Give him a shout at les @
skytecair.com<http://skytecair.com> ...... remove the spaces.
Linn
On 4/15/2013 5:01 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote
:
Hey Bill,
Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has been a
ddressed here, but with different styles from different folks. Just wonder
ed if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
Later, ' Lew
om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
s.com<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lists.com>">http://forums.mat
ronics.com
om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
04/15/13
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com>
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
p>
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School |
in my
We have to start lots of different engines. They all have
their idiosyncrasies and people figure out what works for each individual
installation. But if the ignition and starting system are in good
condition (big if sometimes...), this works for me, hot or cold. Consider
this a universal method for injected Lycs:
Full throttle, full mixture. That opens everything up as far as possible.
Boost pump on until the fuel pressure approaches peak. No need to hold out
for the final PSI, just watch for the rate of rise start to taper off.
Boost pump off. Allows fuel to fill the injector lines without vapors.
Throttle back to 1/4" (just cracked). Mixture to ICO. At this point, the
cylinder charge is over-rich and probably won't ignite.
Then crank with ignition for start per your installation--one mag, EI, both
mags--it just depends on how your system is configured. The engine clears
out the excess fuel and eventually reaches the correct mixture to start.
Since it's at ICO, no fuel is being added, just removed.
As the engine starts to fire, move the mixture S L O W L Y towards full
rich. ICO to full rich should take about 2 seconds.
Adjust throttle as necessary.
About the only change I make to this procedure is to sometimes give 1/2" of
throttle if it's being stubborn. If it won't start like this, I look for
some other problem. I've been very happy with SlickStart installations.
As long as it's timed right, a SlickStarts always give a good hot spark,
which is obviously required for starting.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 8:02 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Your boost pump is NOT helping anything with Bendix or AFP injection
> system. It only helps for Continental injection systems. Better to delay
> bringing in mixture a couple seconds as it may start without it.
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 6:16 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>> Lew,
>>
>> After about 100 hrs and numerous hot start problems, another -10 builder
>> put me onto this technique.
>>
>> Throttle - 1/2 to 1 inch open.
>>
>> Mixture - full lean
>>
>> Boost pump - on
>>
>> Begin cranking and simultaneously move the mixture in towards the half
>> way position.
>>
>> As it starts firing, increase mixture slightly and may need to modulate
>> throttle momentarily.
>>
>> Leave boost pump on for a couple of minutes after it fires.
>>
>> Works every time!
>>
>> grumpy
>> N184JM
>>
>> On Apr 15, 2013, at 4:01 PM,
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hey Bill,
>>
>> Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has bee
n
>> addressed here, but with different styles from different folks. Just
>> wondered if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
>>
>> Later, =93 Lew
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
contribution
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School |
in my
As an A&P I sure would not want to use your method on a warm or hot
Lycoming. Even on a cold Lycoming 3-4 secs of boost pump on to prime is
plenty.
When hot, you are pumping fuel into the cylinder, guaranteeing that it
is flooded. On a hot Lycoming there is NO fuel in the injection lines.
It has already boiled out and is either vapor in the manifold or
evaporated.
Flooding the engine washes oil off the cylinder walls. Excess fuel gets
in the oil. All bad for the engine life. Throttle 1/4" will take a long
time to clear the excess fuel.
Either don't put ANY fuel into the cylinder or go to wide open throttle
before cranking to clear the excess fuel quickly.
Boost pump on hot engine is only good on Continental injection systems
that have a return line to fuel tanks allowing cool fuel to be pumped
all the way through fuel lines and back to the tank. Bendix and similar
systems do not allow fuel flow that does not go into the cylinders.
On 4/15/2013 8:38 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> this works for me, hot or cold. Consider this a universal method
> for injected Lycs:
>
> Full throttle, full mixture. That opens everything up as far as possible.
>
> Boost pump on until the fuel pressure approaches peak. No need to
> hold out for the final PSI, just watch for the rate of rise start to
> taper off. Boost pump off. Allows fuel to fill the injector lines
> without vapors.
> Throttle back to 1/4" (just cracked). Mixture to ICO. At this point,
> the cylinder charge is over-rich and probably won't ignite.
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School |
in my
Yes, there was a short discussion that sounded like the discussion here.
The class focused on maintenance rather than operational procedures
though it covered plenty of both. Jim could only state that different
installations may require different techniques.
I made two notes from the discussion.
1) Whatever technique used for starts, don't 'prime' during a hot
start. By 'prime' I mean don't run boost pump and open mixture (and
throttle) as you might on a cold start.
2) Don't start using WOT
On 4/15/2013 5:01 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote:
> Hey Bill,
> Did anyone ask Jim about hot engine starts on the IO-540? That has
> been addressed here, but with different styles from different folks.
> Just wondered if someone of his experience had a recommended technique.
> Later, Lew
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO540 hot starts |
Kelly's procedure is exactly what I do for hot starts on my '10
(standard Vans IO540). Key points are cranking a bit until if fires
then slowly feeding it fuel and not running the boost pump. I've played
with turning on the fuel pump, /without ever opening the mixture or
throttle/. That works too but it's seems to make no difference.
On cold starts, I 'prime' first by runnning the boost pump, open the
mixture for a 5 count, then close mixture. Then same procedure with
boost pump on throughout.
On 4/15/2013 11:00 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Ugh. I hate full throttle start attempts. That is the heavily flooded
> procedure. Hazardous to your prop, hard on the engine.
> No need in injected Lycomings I have flown. Do NOT use boost pump at
> all. Just 1/4" to 1/2" throttle, mixt. idle cutoff, prop full, crank 6
> blades and if no fire, ease mixture slowly forward until it does fire.
> Been using that for the past 14 years in my Mooney with no issues.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting weather flight to Lycoming Engine School |
in my
On 4/15/2013 6:57 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Thanks Bill - this sounds great. May I ask how much they charged?
>
> --------
>
Here's the full confirmation letter with all the details.
Dear Mr. Watson,
You are scheduled to attend the Lycoming Engine Service School to be
held March 19-22, 2013, and the Disassembly/Reassembly course to be
held March 25-27, 2013. Attached is the confirmation letter for your
attendance to these classes. About a month before the first class
begins, I will contact you via email to make sure you are still planning
to attend. At that time I will give you payment options. Payment should
be made before the first day of class. The cost for the two classes will
be $1,425.00 USD each student.
The Holiday Inn, Downtown hotel is the recommended hotel to stay during
your visit. They offer a discounted room rate to our students with the
special code listed in your confirmation letter. They also provide free
transportation to and from the class each day, and to and from the local
airport. I do have a list of other hotels in the area who give a
discount to our students. Not all of them, however, provide
transportation. I could email that list to you if you wish.
The classes are held at Pennsylvania College of Technology's Aviation
Center in Montoursville. The Aviation Center is located adjacent to the
Williamsport Regional Airport (IPT). Please instruct whomever is driving
you to the class that you need to go to*Penn College's Aviation Center,
Montoursville*.
Also, please note that all classes start promptly at 8:00 a.m. In case
of inclement weather, the Lycoming Engine classes will still be held at
8 a.m. each morning at the Aviation Center.
If you drive your own vehicle, please ask the secretary at the front
desk of the Aviation Center to give you a Temporary Parking Hanger to
display in your parked vehicle. The College Police will ticket any
vehicles that do not display the Temporary Parking Hanger.
As part of your tuition to the Lycoming Engine Service School you will
receive a choice of maintenance manuals from Lycoming Engines. The
instructor will have the order forms for you to complete. It
is_very_important that you complete the order form accurately and
eligibly with the*exact*address where the manuals are to be shipped via
FedEx. */FedEx will only ship to a physical address (number, street,
city)./*Lycoming Engines will only ship_once_to the address given on the
order form. If the shipment cannot be delivered to the address given,
they will be returned to Lycoming Engines. You will then have to contact
Lycoming Engines and pay for their shipment.
If I may be of further assistance, please contact me. Thank you very much.
Betty Ayers
Workforce Development and Continuing Education
Pennsylvania College of Technology
One College Avenue
Williamsport, PA 17701
Phone:570-327-4775
Fax:570.327.4538
bayers(at)pct.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | lycoming engine school |
I changed the subject line!!!
I was faced with rebuilding my O-360-A4A in my Pitts .... reason is in
another story. I have rebuilt a few car engines over my lifetime so the
task wasn't really daunting.
With two manuals, the assembly manual and parts book, you can correctly
disassemble, measure for wear, and reassemble our engines. The hardest
part for me was splitting the case and I made tools to do that. I wish
I could have gone to the engine class and I'm sure that Bill learned far
more of the fine points ..... which impact longevity of the engine ....
which I still don't have. I sent my parts out to have them
measured/replaced as necessary ..... very few parts missed that step. I
also had an A&P that let me buy parts on his account.
Bottom line .... if you follow the assembly manual with the same
diligence you did with the plans while you were building ..... you'll
have a 'new' engine that should last you a long time. The engine class
is valuable, but not a 'required' step.
Linn
On 4/16/2013 9:39 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> On 4/15/2013 6:57 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Bill - this sounds great. May I ask how much they charged?
>>
>> --------
>>
> Here's the full confirmation letter with all the details.
>
> Dear Mr. Watson,
>
> You are scheduled to attend the Lycoming Engine Service School to be
> held March 19-22, 2013, and the Disassembly/Reassembly course to be
> held March 25-27, 2013. Attached is the confirmation letter for your
> attendance to these classes. About a month before the first class
> begins, I will contact you via email to make sure you are still
> planning to attend. At that time I will give you payment options.
> Payment should be made before the first day of class. The cost for the
> two classes will be $1,425.00 USD each student.
>
> The Holiday Inn, Downtown hotel is the recommended hotel to stay
> during your visit. They offer a discounted room rate to our students
> with the special code listed in your confirmation letter. They also
> provide free transportation to and from the class each day, and to and
> from the local airport. I do have a list of other hotels in the area
> who give a discount to our students. Not all of them, however, provide
> transportation. I could email that list to you if you wish.
>
> The classes are held at Pennsylvania College of Technology's Aviation
> Center in Montoursville. The Aviation Center is located adjacent to
> the Williamsport Regional Airport (IPT). Please instruct whomever is
> driving you to the class that you need to go to*Penn College's
> Aviation Center, Montoursville*.
>
> Also, please note that all classes start promptly at 8:00 a.m. In case
> of inclement weather, the Lycoming Engine classes will still be held
> at 8 a.m. each morning at the Aviation Center.
>
> If you drive your own vehicle, please ask the secretary at the front
> desk of the Aviation Center to give you a Temporary Parking Hanger to
> display in your parked vehicle. The College Police will ticket any
> vehicles that do not display the Temporary Parking Hanger.
>
> As part of your tuition to the Lycoming Engine Service School you will
> receive a choice of maintenance manuals from Lycoming Engines. The
> instructor will have the order forms for you to complete. It
> is_very_important that you complete the order form accurately and
> eligibly with the*exact*address where the manuals are to be shipped
> via FedEx. */FedEx will only ship to a physical address (number,
> street, city)./*Lycoming Engines will only ship_once_to the address
> given on the order form. If the shipment cannot be delivered to the
> address given, they will be returned to Lycoming Engines. You will
> then have to contact Lycoming Engines and pay for their shipment.
>
> If I may be of further assistance, please contact me. Thank you very much.
>
> Betty Ayers
>
> Workforce Development and Continuing Education
>
> Pennsylvania College of Technology
>
> One College Avenue
>
> Williamsport, PA 17701
>
> Phone:570-327-4775
>
> Fax:570.327.4538
>
> bayers(at)pct.edu
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming engine school |
Couldn't agree more on all points!
Having never really worked on anything other than model airplane engines
and 5hp mini-bike, the school gave me the confidence I needed to work on
that big, expensive and important IO540.
Yep.
On 4/16/2013 10:02 AM, Linn wrote:
> I changed the subject line!!!
> I was faced with rebuilding my O-360-A4A in my Pitts .... reason is in
> another story. I have rebuilt a few car engines over my lifetime so
> the task wasn't really daunting.
> With two manuals, the assembly manual and parts book, you can
> correctly disassemble, measure for wear, and reassemble our engines.
> The hardest part for me was splitting the case and I made tools to do
> that. I wish I could have gone to the engine class and I'm sure that
> Bill learned far more of the fine points ..... which impact longevity
> of the engine .... which I still don't have. I sent my parts out to
> have them measured/replaced as necessary ..... very few parts missed
> that step. I also had an A&P that let me buy parts on his account.
>
> Bottom line .... if you follow the assembly manual with the same
> diligence you did with the plans while you were building ..... you'll
> have a 'new' engine that should last you a long time. The engine class
> is valuable, but not a 'required' step.
> Linn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lycoming engine school |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Thanks for the write up and information, 3% of engine cost to learn the right way
to take care of our investment is peanuts. Even if a person were to decide
that they did not want to tackle the engine work and instead hire an A&P I still
think it is worth it. As I have said before when I first started flying I
had no idea what held airplanes together, after I owned a factory airplane I
started to understand the basics. It took building the RV-10 to REALLY understand,
it took test flying to REALLY understand all of the details and precision
of test flying. I think getting up to my elbows in the engine tear-down and
assembly will help me fully understand the engine. Even though I spent my life
before aviation in racing and have had countless engines in pieces, aircraft
engines are different animals. Thanks again - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398792#398792
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO540 hot starts |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Of course all of this is different if you have the Airflow Performance system and
a purge valve. So just for a data point, since that is what we fly...
Cold start: Mixture full rich, throttle 1/8", purge valve full out (fuel being
pumped back to the tanks), fuel pump on until fuel flow stabilizes. Purge valve
full in for the count of 6, crank engine, after it fires purge valve full in.
Hot start: Mixture full rich, throttle half open, purge valve full out (hot fuel
being pumped back to the tanks), fuel pump on until fuel flow stabilizes (be
generous with the amount of time so you get cool fuel), purge valve in for the
count of 2 (this is to fill the injector lines between the spider and the nozzles),
purge valve out, crank engine, once it fires purge valve full in, retard
throttle as the engine fully catches.
As I understand the function and purpose of the purge valve it falls into the "if
you can't fix it, feature it" category. The mixture control valve on the Airflow
Performance system at idle cut off does not fully cut fuel, so there is
a chance you could still feed a super lean mixture of fuel to the injectors.
So, they added the purge valve. I am not digging at all on the system, I really
like it, it functions well, and the support is fantastic. Just pointing out
the reason...
Thanks - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398793#398793
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming engine school |
Jason is right. Our aircraft engines are different than car engines
.... especially today's car engines. Our engines are locked in a time
warp ..... they're rock simple and the tolerances are so large you can
almost use your finger as a feeler gauge!! OK so I fudged a little or
have small fingers .... ;-)
But they are that way for a reason .... they are reliable. That is if
you do things like the valve wobble test (SB388) which most A&Ps don't
do and have your mags overhauled every 500 hours.
Linn
On 4/17/2013 8:07 AM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Thanks for the write up and information, 3% of engine cost to learn the right
way to take care of our investment is peanuts. Even if a person were to decide
that they did not want to tackle the engine work and instead hire an A&P I
still think it is worth it. As I have said before when I first started flying
I had no idea what held airplanes together, after I owned a factory airplane
I started to understand the basics. It took building the RV-10 to REALLY understand,
it took test flying to REALLY understand all of the details and precision
of test flying. I think getting up to my elbows in the engine tear-down and
assembly will help me fully understand the engine. Even though I spent my
life before aviation in racing and have had countless engines in pieces, aircraft
engines are different animals. Thanks again - Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398792#398792
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO540 hot starts |
Keep in mind that there are at least two ways of installing the Airflow
system..purge valve dumps overboard, or connected back to fuel tank.
There are probably more variations. Each one will call for a different
technique.
There are arguments about benefits/costs/disadvantages to each system,
kind of like which primer to use/not use.
All I can say is I favor KISS, if a simple system works, I don't need a
more complicated system. Each builder is free to make their own choices,
which hopefully will be best for them and fulfill their objectives, but
may be all wrong for the next builder. Having this forum to share our
successes and, umm, less than outstanding choices is what it is all about.
Kelly
On 4/17/2013 5:22 AM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Of course all of this is different if you have the Airflow Performance system
and a purge valve. So just for a data point, since that is what we fly...
>
> Cold start: Mixture full rich, throttle 1/8", purge valve full out (fuel being
pumped back to the tanks), fuel pump on until fuel flow stabilizes. Purge valve
full in for the count of 6, crank engine, after it fires purge valve full
in.
>
> Hot start: Mixture full rich, throttle half open, purge valve full out (hot fuel
being pumped back to the tanks), fuel pump on until fuel flow stabilizes (be
generous with the amount of time so you get cool fuel), purge valve in for
the count of 2 (this is to fill the injector lines between the spider and the
nozzles), purge valve out, crank engine, once it fires purge valve full in, retard
throttle as the engine fully catches.
>
> As I understand the function and purpose of the purge valve it falls into the
"if you can't fix it, feature it" category. The mixture control valve on the
Airflow Performance system at idle cut off does not fully cut fuel, so there
is a chance you could still feed a super lean mixture of fuel to the injectors.
So, they added the purge valve. I am not digging at all on the system, I really
like it, it functions well, and the support is fantastic. Just pointing
out the reason...
>
> Thanks - Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398793#398793
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming engine school |
Even those items vary, depending on vintage of your parts. Valve wobble
at 400 hours with pre-1997 valve guides, 1000 hours with current
production parts.
Most experienced A&Ps will tell you to inspect and repair as needed for
mags at 500 hours, overhaul at 1000 hours. Some will suggest replacement
of Slick mags at 1000 hours, as the overhaul costs are very close to
cost of new mags.
Kelly
A&P/IA
On 4/17/2013 5:32 AM, Linn wrote:
>
> Jason is right. Our aircraft engines are different than car engines
> .... especially today's car engines. Our engines are locked in a
> time warp ..... they're rock simple and the tolerances are so large
> you can almost use your finger as a feeler gauge!! OK so I fudged a
> little or have small fingers .... ;-)
>
> But they are that way for a reason .... they are reliable. That is if
> you do things like the valve wobble test (SB388) which most A&Ps don't
> do and have your mags overhauled every 500 hours.
> Linn
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Andair fuel pump |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Is the Andair PX375TC currently the best fuel boost pump for the RV10? Alternatives?
Best source for the Andair pump?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398814#398814
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair fuel pump |
I have the AirFlow Performance pump in the RV-10 and in the RV-8A for 11 years
now. No problems what so ever. This is the one Van's sells.
Carl
On Apr 17, 2013, at 1:09 PM, "bob88" wrote:
>
> Is the Andair PX375TC currently the best fuel boost pump for the RV10? Alternatives?
Best source for the Andair pump?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398814#398814
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Flap trailing edge Proseal |
What are thoughts on prosealing the trailing edges of the Flaps? I don't
have the proseal (not hard to get obviously) but is it necessary? I
have prosealed the rudder, elevators and ailerons so I'm familiar with
the process, just not sure if it's necessary.
Couldn't find anything in the archives so sorry if this has been
discussed.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
IMO, I'd use some kind of flexible adhesive particularly if you use Van's method
to do the riveting, but it doesn't have to be Proseal. Remember the purpose
of the Proseal is to act like a Cleco, it's not there to seal anything.
If you use the method where you create a long backrivet plate out of angle iron
(or something similar) that you match drill and cleco the trailing edge to, then
you can probably skip the Proseal all together, but I'll defer to someone
who went this route as I used Van's Proseal method.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398885#398885
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Not to start a primer war but Proseal is a sealant and is not too good as a
fastener. The advantage of using it on the trailing edges is to act as a
sealant to alkaline fluids that might wick into the "fay" seam between two
skins and begin a corrosion process. The main use (but certainly not the
only) is to seal panels or antenna on commercial & military aircraft
against water, cleaners, de-ice fluid and other contaminates.
Hydrogen embrittlement and corrosion are the two concerns that drive its
use in Aviation. Corrosion takes place when the slightest electron current
flow begins in the presence of moisture and dissimilar metals. (See the
Nobility Table of metals). I won't get into Hydrogen Embrittlement here.
Remember many use the aircraft metal as the return path for those
electrons.
It's home remedy uses are almost as varied and limitless as MMO - Marvel
Mystery Oil for acronym driven builders. Clearing stuffy noses being one
of the most unforgettable. Using it as a trace marker on formerly valuable
clothing for work performed is another.
John Cox
On Thu, Apr 18, 2013 at 8:11 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
> IMO, I'd use some kind of flexible adhesive particularly if you use Van's
> method to do the riveting, but it doesn't have to be Proseal. Remember the
> purpose of the Proseal is to act like a Cleco, it's not there to seal
> anything.
>
> If you use the method where you create a long backrivet plate out of angle
> iron (or something similar) that you match drill and cleco the trailing
> edge to, then you can probably skip the Proseal all together, but I'll
> defer to someone who went this route as I used Van's Proseal method.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
> RV-10 N728TT
> Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
> www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398885#398885
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Well, while what you say is true to a point, in this application Van calls for
the use of ProSeal as a convenient adhesive simply to hold the parts together
while riveting to prevent the dreaded trailing edge wave. I point you to para
5H in Chapter 5 of the construction manual where Van's explains this.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398900#398900
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
Clecoing the trailing edge through every other rivet hole to a piece of
match drilled angle iron works pretty damn good at preventing the trailing
edge wave too. Not flying but I can gaze down my rudder trailing edge with
no regrets.
Ben Westfall
-----Original Message-----
Well, while what you say is true to a point, in this application Van calls
for the use of ProSeal as a convenient adhesive simply to hold the parts
together while riveting to prevent the dreaded trailing edge wave. I point
you to para 5H in Chapter 5 of the construction manual where Van's explains
this.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
| From: | "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca> |
On the RV-14, Van's now uses a 3M double sided tape rather than Proseal and the
RV-14 wing is just an RV-10 wing shortened basically.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398911#398911
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
BTW.....I liked the pro seal.....was not all that bad, ya a little messy,
but it worked for me and I knew what I was getting. Embrace the mess....
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B.
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 3:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal
On the RV-14, Van's now uses a 3M double sided tape rather than Proseal and
the RV-14 wing is just an RV-10 wing shortened basically.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398911#398911
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com> |
I am starting to drill and attach the engine mount to the firewall.
I noticed that after I got the first AN6 attach bolt holding the engine
mount in place, the other guide holes in the firewall were visible, but not
perfectly centered in the engine mount bolt holes.
Is this something I should be concerned about? Did anyone else experience
this? Should I drill away?
--
Vernon Franklin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Mine too. In fact, I had to pull on the mount so I could see all of the hole in
the firewall thru the mount.
Van's advice was to use the mount as a guide, and just go ahead and drill, as long
as the resulting final holes were going to be round.
Seemed to work okay, the mount is a good guide so the drill doesn't wander in the
off-center hole in the firewall.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398917#398917
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
The tensile strength of Proseal is approximately 300 psi and I know it is safe
to use with aluminum. The tensile strength of double sided tape varies from 10-85
psi and consist of many different adhesives. Proseal adds a lot of shear and
tensile strength to a riveted joint. Assemble two scrap pieces of aluminum
together with Proseal and then try pulling them apart.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398923#398923
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Same on mine...you are getting close!
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398924#398924
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair fuel pump |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Like Carl, no problems with Airflow's pump. Also no problems with Vans fuel valve.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398925#398925
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
The double sided tape would be a lot less messy way to secure the trailing
edges. Good idea.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Thu, Apr 18, 2013 at 5:39 PM, Ron B. wrote:
>
> On the RV-14, Van's now uses a 3M double sided tape rather than Proseal
> and the RV-14 wing is just an RV-10 wing shortened basically.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398911#398911
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
I'm far from an expert but would a reamer not be a good way to open up the
final hole size? I use one every chance I get.
Rick
#40956
On Thu, Apr 18, 2013 at 7:33 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Mine too. In fact, I had to pull on the mount so I could see all of the
> hole in the firewall thru the mount.
> Van's advice was to use the mount as a guide, and just go ahead and drill,
> as long as the resulting final holes were going to be round.
> Seemed to work okay, the mount is a good guide so the drill doesn't wander
> in the off-center hole in the firewall.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398917#398917
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
You are enlarging from around a 3/16 to something like 3/8. You need a
sharp drill bit with good cutting oil. I found liquid Boelube works
great for that purpose.
On 4/18/2013 9:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> I'm far from an expert but would a reamer not be a good way to open up
> the final hole size? I use one every chance I get.
> Rick
> #40956
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 18, 2013 at 7:33 PM, Bob Turner > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Mine too. In fact, I had to pull on the mount so I could see all
> of the hole in the firewall thru the mount.
> Van's advice was to use the mount as a guide, and just go ahead
> and drill, as long as the resulting final holes were going to be
> round.
> Seemed to work okay, the mount is a good guide so the drill
> doesn't wander in the off-center hole in the firewall.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398917#398917
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
I don't know what the long term corrosion aspects are with tape.
I found 3M Scotch-Weld 2216 to work very well for these trailing edge jobs
as well as anything else that needed a strong epoxy that works well with
mixed materials:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/cs/epoxy_3m/3mAdhesive2216.php
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10flyer
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 12:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal
The tensile strength of Proseal is approximately 300 psi and I know it is
safe to use with aluminum. The tensile strength of double sided tape varies
from 10-85 psi and consist of many different adhesives. Proseal adds a lot
of shear and tensile strength to a riveted joint. Assemble two scrap pieces
of aluminum together with Proseal and then try pulling them apart.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398923#398923
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
On approach that worked well for me. Drill out the firewall holes to
=BC=94.
Use =BC=94 bolts with a sleeve of 3/8=94 nylon tubing to bolt up the
engine mount
(the tubing centers the bolts on the engine mount weldments). Put a
bolt
into each weldment. Once the engine mount is bolted to the firewall
(some
persuasion may be needed), take out one bolt at a time and drill through
the
engine mount to final size. Insert a full size bolt in that hole and
repeat
for the other holes.
Simple and works every time.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 12:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Engine Mount
I'm far from an expert but would a reamer not be a good way to open up
the
final hole size? I use one every chance I get.
Rick
#40956
On Thu, Apr 18, 2013 at 7:33 PM, Bob Turner
wrote:
Mine too. In fact, I had to pull on the mount so I could see all of the
hole
in the firewall thru the mount.
Van's advice was to use the mount as a guide, and just go ahead and
drill,
as long as the resulting final holes were going to be round.
Seemed to work okay, the mount is a good guide so the drill doesn't
wander
in the off-center hole in the firewall.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398917#398917
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com> |
I believe thats typical. The engine mount tends to be off a bit. On mine I
preloaded it a bit using just using hand pressure to get the holes to align
better
Good luck with it
Niko
Nikolaos Napoli
On Apr 18, 2013, at 7:14 PM, Vernon Franklin wro
te:
> I am starting to drill and attach the engine mount to the firewall.
>
> I noticed that after I got the first AN6 attach bolt holding the engine mo
unt in place, the other guide holes in the firewall were visible, but not pe
rfectly centered in the engine mount bolt holes.
>
> Is this something I should be concerned about? Did anyone else experience
this? Should I drill away?
>
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Avionic wiring nightmare |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I just went through the avionic wiring nightmare today, for some reason the AF-4500
wasn't receiving any GPS ARINC data from the GNS430. I removed the GNS430
to find one pin totally bent, it obviously didn't catch the right hole when I
installed the GNS430 a couple days ago when testing the new anti collision device.
Long story short I spent almost three hours on my back behind the panel trying
to remove the broken high density pin with the removal tool, cutting the pin off
and removing the insulation and crimping a new pin all in the most awkward
position for my arms and hands ever. I just hope that I never have to go back
there again.
Anyway I am just worried that I could bend a pin like this again, I don't recall
when installing the GNS430 torque forces were higher than before, any ideas
how to prevent something like this happening again?
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398964#398964
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Avionic wiring nightmare |
When possible we include a "service loop" so the poor bastard that has to hunt
down wiring issues can review the the connectors without inverted training.
Robin
________________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]
on behalf of Mike Whisky [rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net]
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 11:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Avionic wiring nightmare
I just went through the avionic wiring nightmare today, for some reason the AF-4500
wasn't receiving any GPS ARINC data from the GNS430. I removed the GNS430
to find one pin totally bent, it obviously didn't catch the right hole when I
installed the GNS430 a couple days ago when testing the new anti collision device.
Long story short I spent almost three hours on my back behind the panel trying
to remove the broken high density pin with the removal tool, cutting the pin off
and removing the insulation and crimping a new pin all in the most awkward
position for my arms and hands ever. I just hope that I never have to go back
there again.
Anyway I am just worried that I could bend a pin like this again, I don't recall
when installing the GNS430 torque forces were higher than before, any ideas
how to prevent something like this happening again?
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398964#398964
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I actually jigged the drill and used the pilot holes prior to attaching the mount.
It took a lot of persuading, but all of the bolts eventually went into the
mounts. My rationale was that the firewall pilot holes were far more accurate
than the weldment.
Having done it this way, if I did it again I would drill the top two holes using
the firewall pilot holes as the center, I would attach the mount with the top
two holes and then use the mount as a drill guide for the remaining 4 holes.
It will make for a much easier removal and installation if ever required.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398969#398969
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Avionic wiring nightmare |
Or, design the panel so it comes out as a unit so you can do this on the
bench.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Avionic wiring nightmare
When possible we include a "service loop" so the poor bastard that has to
hunt down wiring issues can review the the connectors without inverted
training.
Robin
________________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] on behalf of Mike Whisky
[rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net]
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 11:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Avionic wiring nightmare
I just went through the avionic wiring nightmare today, for some reason the
AF-4500 wasn't receiving any GPS ARINC data from the GNS430. I removed the
GNS430 to find one pin totally bent, it obviously didn't catch the right
hole when I installed the GNS430 a couple days ago when testing the new anti
collision device.
Long story short I spent almost three hours on my back behind the panel
trying to remove the broken high density pin with the removal tool, cutting
the pin off and removing the insulation and crimping a new pin all in the
most awkward position for my arms and hands ever. I just hope that I never
have to go back there again.
Anyway I am just worried that I could bend a pin like this again, I don't
recall when installing the GNS430 torque forces were higher than before, any
ideas how to prevent something like this happening again?
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398964#398964
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionic wiring nightmare |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The pins should be partially engaged before you do any torquing on the Allan wrench.
If you feel any resistance for the last few mm of insertion stop, back out
a bit and wiggle slightly as you slide it in by hand. It is a matter of feel
but there is a difference if all the pins are not lined up.
Don't feel bad. I've seen this happen at least twice, by different professional
avionics shops.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398977#398977
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge Proseal |
| From: | "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca> |
I used Pro seal on the RV-10 and have a fresh unopened can in the freezer. I also
have purchased the 3M tape Van's recommends now. Pro seal was no big deal and
I have not ruled out using it. I would think Pro seal would be better than
the tape even though the rivets alone are supposed to do the job. The bonding
is for assembly only as per Van's
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398978#398978
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Avionic wiring nightmare |
Man can I relate as I am wiring my panel now. I did as many of the pins as I could
on the bench. There is still a ton to do while in the plane doing the final
connections. The pins bend easily,,,especially the high density pins Garmin
love's to use. I've been triple checking each and every one as they go in: Good
crimp, proper location, and then a gentle tug and push on the pin to make certain
its engaged in the D-sub. Finally examine the filled D-sub looking for any
pins that don't line up and straighten them out. I don't know at what stage
of installing the avionic in the tray the pins engage but you probably would
not really feel the resistance with an HD pin that did not engage properly as
you seat the avionic in the tray with the Allen wrench. I did make all my wires
long enough to be able to pull out of the front of the panel and I also interconnected
my three avionics trays and it removes as a unit with 8 screws if I
need to access the tray connectors.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 2:10:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Avionic wiring nightmare
I just went through the avionic wiring nightmare today, for some reason the AF-4500
wasn't receiving any GPS ARINC data from the GNS430. I removed the GNS430
to find one pin totally bent, it obviously didn't catch the right hole when I
installed the GNS430 a couple days ago when testing the new anti collision device.
Long story short I spent almost three hours on my back behind the panel trying
to remove the broken high density pin with the removal tool, cutting the pin off
and removing the insulation and crimping a new pin all in the most awkward
position for my arms and hands ever. I just hope that I never have to go back
there again.
Anyway I am just worried that I could bend a pin like this again, I don't recall
when installing the GNS430 torque forces were higher than before, any ideas
how to prevent something like this happening again?
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398964#398964
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionic wiring nightmare |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Working on the back of the radios happens a lot more often than most
builders realize. It really helps to have a plan while you're building that
will provide access there. It helps to break up the panel into sections
that can be removed to make a hole.
Another thing that helps a lot is to use the long thumbscrews to attach the
D-connectors to the cans. The screws that Garmin ships now have serrations
for fingers and also hex drives for a socket, much better than short screws
with plain slots that can literally take hours to attach. Stein, can you
sell the new Garmin type screws? I know you have long ones which are
already a huge help.
Another thing I think I've mentioned before-- we now run virtually all
serial wires into a single connector. All ins and outs populate a large
circular (63 pin?), then use the other half to jumper all the signals to
their desired mates. Put the airframe connector on a service loop that you
can reach, and then you can just pull the jumper side out to work on it on
the bench. It really comes in handy when making changes, updates,
troubleshooting, etc.
On Friday, April 19, 2013, wrote:
> Man can I relate as I am wiring my panel now. I did as many of the pins
> as I could on the bench. There is still a ton to do while in the plane
> doing the final connections. The pins bend easily,,,especially the high
> density pins Garmin love's to use. I've been triple checking each and
> every one as they go in: Good crimp, proper location, and then a gentle
> tug and push on the pin to make certain its engaged in the D-sub. Finally
> examine the filled D-sub looking for any pins that don't line up and
> straighten them out. I don't know at what stage of installing the avionic
> in the tray the pins engage but you probably would not really feel the
> resistance with an HD pin that did not engage properly as you seat the
> avionic in the tray with the Allen wrench. I did make all my wires long
> enough to be able to pull out of the front of the panel and I also
> interconnected my three avionics trays and it removes as a unit with 8
> screws if I need to access the tray connectors.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net');>>
> *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com 'rv10-list(at)matronics.com');>
> *Sent: *Friday, April 19, 2013 2:10:39 PM
> *Subject: *RV10-List: Avionic wiring nightmare
>
> >
>
> I just went through the avionic wiring nightmare today, for some reason
> the AF-4500 wasn't receiving any GPS ARINC data from the GNS430. I removed
> the GNS430 to find one pin totally bent, it obviously didn't catch the
> right hole when I installed the GNS430 a couple days ago when testing the
> new anti collision device.
> Long story short I spent almost three hours on my back behind the panel
> trying to remove the broken high density pin with the removal tool, cutting
> the pin off and removing the insulation and crimping a new pin all in the
> most awkward position for my arms and hands ever. I just hope that I never
> have to go back there again.
>
> Anyway I am just worried that I could bend a pin like this again, I don't
> recall when installing the GNS430 torque forces were higher than before,
> any ideas how to prevent something like this happening again?
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/========================**
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionic wiring nightmare |
I made my panel removable in one piece. Power goes through Molex
connectors and signal wires go through D connectors.
I replaced the rivet tab on the switch/breaker (lower panel) with an
angle and nutplate.
To remove the panel I remove all the screws and slide the right side aft
until it clears that channel and move the panel to the right so it
clears the left channel.
Lay the panel on the stringer below the channel and support the top of
the panel on a piecee of PVC pipe with the foam tube insulation on it.
I now have access to all the connections to the airframe .... including
the pitot/static lines. There are two power cables that need to be
removed .... power to the buss and the alternator breaker feed.
It really works well as I've had it in/out several times. Probably won't
need to pull the panel after the first flight though!!!
Linn
On 4/19/2013 7:01 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> Working on the back of the radios happens a lot more often than most
> builders realize. It really helps to have a plan while you're building
> that will provide access there. It helps to break up the panel into
> sections that can be removed to make a hole.
>
> Another thing that helps a lot is to use the long thumbscrews to
> attach the D-connectors to the cans. The screws that Garmin ships now
> have serrations for fingers and also hex drives for a socket, much
> better than short screws with plain slots that can literally take
> hours to attach. Stein, can you sell the new Garmin type screws? I
> know you have long ones which are already a huge help.
>
> Another thing I think I've mentioned before-- we now run virtually all
> serial wires into a single connector. All ins and outs populate a
> large circular (63 pin?), then use the other half to jumper all the
> signals to their desired mates. Put the airframe connector on a
> service loop that you can reach, and then you can just pull the jumper
> side out to work on it on the bench. It really comes in handy when
> making changes, updates, troubleshooting, etc.
>
>
> On Friday, April 19, 2013, wrote:
>
> Man can I relate as I am wiring my panel now. I did as many of
> the pins as I could on the bench. There is still a ton to do
> while in the plane doing the final connections. The pins bend
> easily,,,especially the high density pins Garmin love's to use.
> I've been triple checking each and every one as they go in: Good
> crimp, proper location, and then a gentle tug and push on the pin
> to make certain its engaged in the D-sub. Finally examine the
> filled D-sub looking for any pins that don't line up and
> straighten them out. I don't know at what stage of installing the
> avionic in the tray the pins engage but you probably would not
> really feel the resistance with an HD pin that did not engage
> properly as you seat the avionic in the tray with the Allen
> wrench. I did make all my wires long enough to be able to pull
> out of the front of the panel and I also interconnected my three
> avionics trays and it removes as a unit with 8 screws if I need to
> access the tray connectors.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net <javascript:_e({},
> 'cvml', 'rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net');>>
> *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com 'rv10-list(at)matronics.com');>
> *Sent: *Friday, April 19, 2013 2:10:39 PM
> *Subject: *RV10-List: Avionic wiring nightmare
>
> 'rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net');>>
>
> I just went through the avionic wiring nightmare today, for some
> reason the AF-4500 wasn't receiving any GPS ARINC data from the
> GNS430. I removed the GNS430 to find one pin totally bent, it
> obviously didn't catch the right hole when I installed the GNS430
> a couple days ago when testing the new anti collision device.
> Long story short I spent almost three hours on my back behind the
> panel trying to remove the broken high density pin with the
> removal tool, cutting the pin off and removing the insulation and
> crimping a new pin all in the most awkward position for my arms
> and hands ever. I just hope that I never have to go back there again.
>
> Anyway I am just worried that I could bend a pin like this again,
> I don't recall when installing the GNS430 torque forces were
> higher than before, any ideas how to prevent something like this
> happening again?
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/=======================
>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> --
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Avionic wiring nightmare |
I believe we can get those new Garmin type thumbscrews (probably the
nicest ones to work with that I=99ve seen), though I don=99t
know yet how or if they=99d work with other connectors.
I=99ll do some checking next week and report back. We do keep
normal thumbscrews in stock that work on the plain jane standard Dsbubs,
but they aren=99t as nice as the new Garmin ones.
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Avionic wiring nightmare
Working on the back of the radios happens a lot more often than most
builders realize. It really helps to have a plan while you're building
that will provide access there. It helps to break up the panel into
sections that can be removed to make a hole.
Another thing that helps a lot is to use the long thumbscrews to attach
the D-connectors to the cans. The screws that Garmin ships now have
serrations for fingers and also hex drives for a socket, much better
than short screws with plain slots that can literally take hours to
attach. Stein, can you sell the new Garmin type screws? I know you have
long ones which are already a huge help.
Another thing I think I've mentioned before-- we now run virtually all
serial wires into a single connector. All ins and outs populate a large
circular (63 pin?), then use the other half to jumper all the signals to
their desired mates. Put the airframe connector on a service loop that
you can reach, and then you can just pull the jumper side out to work on
it on the bench. It really comes in handy when making changes, updates,
troubleshooting, etc.
On Friday, April 19, 2013, wrote:
Man can I relate as I am wiring my panel now. I did as many of the pins
as I could on the bench. There is still a ton to do while in the plane
doing the final connections. The pins bend easily,,,especially the high
density pins Garmin love's to use. I've been triple checking each and
every one as they go in: Good crimp, proper location, and then a gentle
tug and push on the pin to make certain its engaged in the D-sub.
Finally examine the filled D-sub looking for any pins that don't line up
and straighten them out. I don't know at what stage of installing the
avionic in the tray the pins engage but you probably would not really
feel the resistance with an HD pin that did not engage properly as you
seat the avionic in the tray with the Allen wrench. I did make all my
wires long enough to be able to pull out of the front of the panel and I
also interconnected my three avionics trays and it removes as a unit
with 8 screws if I need to access the tray connectors.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
_____
From: "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net
>
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 2:10:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Avionic wiring nightmare
>
I just went through the avionic wiring nightmare today, for some reason
the AF-4500 wasn't receiving any GPS ARINC data from the GNS430. I
removed the GNS430 to find one pin totally bent, it obviously didn't
catch the right hole when I installed the GNS430 a couple days ago when
testing the new anti collision device.
Long story short I spent almost three hours on my back behind the panel
trying to remove the broken high density pin with the removal tool,
cutting the pin off and removing the insulation and crimping a new pin
all in the most awkward position for my arms and hands ever. I just hope
that I never have to go back there again.
Anyway I am just worried that I could bend a pin like this again, I
don't recall when installing the GNS430 torque forces were higher than
before, any ideas how to prevent something like this happening again?
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/===============
========
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionic wiring nightmare |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
One of the nice things about flat panel displays is the large hole they leave in
the panel when removed. When I need to work behind the panel the first thing
I do is cut the cable ties holding the service loops, pull one or both GRT EFIS
units out from the front and disconnect them. This leaves two large holes to
work thru while sitting upright.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398993#398993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionic wiring nightmare |
I considered that originally. I have dual MGL Odysseys and they're
interconnected in so many ways that it really wasn't feasible to try and
work through the holes. Being able to remove the panel allows me to put
it on the bench for modifications or power up testing. Leaving the
forward upper fuselage removable during the fuselage wiring stage made
things accessible as well. The last two pieces I plan on fastening down
are the forward upper fuselage and the cabin top to enable easy access
without having to hang by my knees. :-D
It's just disappointing to spend so much time on the fuselage wiring
without seeing any real physical progress towards completion. Another
bite out of that elephant though.
Linn
On 4/19/2013 11:18 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> One of the nice things about flat panel displays is the large hole they leave
in the panel when removed. When I need to work behind the panel the first thing
I do is cut the cable ties holding the service loops, pull one or both GRT
EFIS units out from the front and disconnect them. This leaves two large holes
to work thru while sitting upright.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398993#398993
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Tail Kit for Sale |
| From: | "mj.swanson" <mj.swanson(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I've decided to part ways with my RV-10 Tail Kit being a victim of health issues
and too many competing priorities.
The Vertical Stab and Rudder are complete. The horizontal stab has been drilled,
de-burred, primed and cleco'ed together for final assembly. All work was meticulously
done and builder log/photos are available upon request.
I'm asking $2,500 for the kit, C-frame dimpler, and miscellaneous parts/tools.
I live in Southern California and can reached via e-mail at mj.swanson(at)sbcglobal.net
if interested.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399014#399014
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionic wiring nightmare |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks for all the replies. One issue simply is that the tray of the 430 goes through
the sup-panel and therefore I have to work back there. The only way to
remove the 64 pin high density pin connector is through the tray. My panel was
made by Stein and I love it and its a great piece of workmanship that he delivered.
But as I added now the Garrecht TRX-1500A anti collision warning system
(ADS-B & FLARM) to display traffic on he GNS-430W and the AF-4500, I had no
choice and pull the connector.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399016#399016
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Matched" wings to spars |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
In my building process I built the fuselage kit after the empennage kit by ordering
the spar box kit with the fuse kit.
I later bought a QB wing kit from another builder.
There was concern expressed by some that I might have difficulties by not having
the wing spar and spar box "matched" by serial number set.
Van's said it shouldn't be a problem even though they still recommend a matched
set, so it always lingered in the back of my mind that I could get caught in
a pickle. However, I am happy (and relieved) to report that at initial mating
everything lined up perfectly.
At least with the 10, (and I assume beyond), the Van's fabrication process is so
accurate that the venerable practice of matching the components is unnecessary.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399026#399026
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fabian Rahm <vans(at)paulcream.com> |
| Subject: | Any Builder in WA, Australia |
Hi Folks,
I'm looking for builders near Perth, WA, Austrlia. Please msg me if you
know someone building a -10 somewhere in that area of our world.
Regards,
Fabian
--
#1400 - Tail-kit about to start
Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any Builder in WA, Australia |
| From: | terry doe <terrdoe(at)gmail.com> |
gday fabian
i am building a 10 in bunbury
terry
On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 3:01 AM, Fabian Rahm wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm looking for builders near Perth, WA, Austrlia. Please msg me if you know
> someone building a -10 somewhere in that area of our world.
>
> Regards,
>
> Fabian
>
> --
> #1400 - Tail-kit about to start
> Switzerland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Matched" wings to spars |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Certain holes are oversized, different for each of us and noted on a form with
the extra bolts. Did all hole diameters match on yours?
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 101
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399095#399095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | "Matched" wings to spars |
With the 10 you do not need a matched set of wings. They might suggest it
only
Because they want to sell another set QB of wings.
Geoff Combs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 2:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: "Matched" wings to spars
In my building process I built the fuselage kit after the empennage kit by
ordering the spar box kit with the fuse kit.
I later bought a QB wing kit from another builder.
There was concern expressed by some that I might have difficulties by not
having the wing spar and spar box "matched" by serial number set.
Van's said it shouldn't be a problem even though they still recommend a
matched set, so it always lingered in the back of my mind that I could get
caught in a pickle. However, I am happy (and relieved) to report that at
initial mating everything lined up perfectly.
At least with the 10, (and I assume beyond), the Van's fabrication process
is so accurate that the venerable practice of matching the components is
unnecessary.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit
and FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399026#399026
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Matched" wings to spars |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
rv10flyer wrote:
> Certain holes are oversized, different for each of us and noted on a form with
the extra bolts. Did all hole diameters match on yours?
Just curious, but you're saying that some of the wing attach bolt holes were drilled
oversized and annotated as such? I mated my wings a few weeks ago and don't
recall anything anywhere indicating oversized holes. My wings were SB--is
this a QB thing?
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399102#399102
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Matched" wings to spars |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
No QB's on mine.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 101
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399106#399106
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Matched" wings to spars |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I can't imagine why any holes would be non-standard unless there was a flaw discovered
that they re-drilled to salvage. I think that would definitely require
paperwork and close scrutiny. Everything matched on mine except the serial
numbers.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399120#399120
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi there,
I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose wheel tire.
What PSI are you using?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I put 50 in all tires. That's more than vans states.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 22, 2013, at 11:52, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
> Hi there,
> I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose wheel
tire. What PSI are you using?
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
This has been a subject for discussion several times.... 10er's are using a
nywhere between 35 and 60 psi... with most probably in the 40 to 45 range.
- I've used as high as 50 (especially when flying into grass strips) and
have seen no downside effects.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 4/22/13, Mike Whisky wrote:
From: Mike Whisky <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Subject: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure?
Date: Monday, April 22, 2013, 12:52 PM
Hi there,
I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose whee
l tire. What PSI are you using?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
40psi in front (sect 46-3 step 8)
42psi in rear (sect 48-3 step 4)
I run mine 2 psi higher- just to allow for longer period before needing to
remove pants and refill. even with the non leak I lose pressure over time.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Whisky
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure?
Hi there,
I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose wheel
tire. What PSI are you using?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks that what I was looking for?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399127#399127
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_502.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
I was using 45 main and 40 front until I switched to Desser retreads. Then
the plane got REALLY hard to pull out of the hangar. Checked brgs, brakes,
etc. I finally upped the pressures to 60/50 and it's good as new.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 10:52 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Hi there,
> I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose
> wheel tire. What PSI are you using?
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
Dave, I had a visit from Jim Rore out of Stockton.... and I had moved my 10
to a friends hangar, and when Jim showed up I pulled his plane in.... ABSO
LUTELY couldn't believe how easy it was... keep in mind, I've been moving m
ine in and out for 2 years.- I asked him about it, and his response made
perfect sense, he carries (IIRC) 60 psi.... and has for a long time... 5 or
6 years now.- That's when I bumped my pressure up a bit.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 4/22/13, Dave Saylor wrote:
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire press
ure?
Date: Monday, April 22, 2013, 2:26 PM
I was using 45 main and 40 front until I switched to Desser retreads. -Th
en the plane got REALLY hard to pull out of the hangar. -Checked brgs, br
akes, etc. -I finally upped the pressures to 60/50 and it's good as new.
=0A=0A
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL=0A
On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 10:52 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
=0A
=0AHi there,
=0AI can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose w
heel tire. What PSI are you using?
=0AMike
=0A
=0A--------
=0ARV-10 builder (final assembly)
=0A#511
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0ARead this topic online here:
=0A
=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A==========
=0A" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=0A==========
=0AMS -
=0Ak">http://forums.matronics.com
=0A==========
=0Ae -
=0A - - - - --Matt Dralle, List Admin.
=0At="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=0A==========
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
===================0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
I find this thread interesting. When I was a baby pilot I had a good
mentor .... for almost everything involving aviation. He said to fill
the tire until the outside rib just lifts off the ground. "Pounds don't
work well because a wide range of airplane weights use the same size
tire." Made sense to me so that's what I do. I get pretty even tire
wear. Of course we're talking RVs here and there is noo such thing as
even tire wear on the mains!!!
Have wheel pants? Get tubes with a 90 degree stem and drill a hole on
the wheel pant where the stem points. Go to a truck tire store and get
a couple of straight truck tire extensions. When you have the stem at
the right point paint a white line on the inside of the tire so when you
pull the airplane forward you can spot the white line and the tire
should be in the right position for filling. Find a plastic plug to fit
the hole (or is it the other way around) and your tire filling
nightmares go away.
Now, question: When you fill the tire to 60 Lbs, which rib is off the
ground?
Linn
On 4/22/2013 4:04 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
> Dave, I had a visit from Jim Rore out of Stockton.... and I had moved
> my 10 to a friends hangar, and when Jim showed up I pulled his plane
> in.... ABSOLUTELY couldn't believe how easy it was... keep in mind,
> I've been moving mine in and out for 2 years. I asked him about it,
> and his response made perfect sense, he carries (IIRC) 60 psi.... and
> has for a long time... 5 or 6 years now. That's when I bumped my
> pressure up a bit.
> Don McDonald
>
> --- On *Mon, 4/22/13, Dave Saylor
> //* wrote:
>
>
> From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required
> tire pressure?
> To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com"
> Date: Monday, April 22, 2013, 2:26 PM
>
> I was using 45 main and 40 front until I switched to Desser
> retreads. Then the plane got REALLY hard to pull out of the
> hangar. Checked brgs, brakes, etc. I finally upped the pressures
> to 60/50 and it's good as new.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 10:52 AM, Mike Whisky
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Hi there,
> I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main
> and nose wheel tire. What PSI are you using?
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
>
>
> ==========
> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> MS -
> k">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> e -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navi="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.co
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> 04/22/13
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
Lowes Aircraft Supply makes a perfect metal plug for the hole you
described (I think I use one that's about 1.25"). It's in the odds and
ends cabinets in their hardware section.
Marcus
On Apr 22, 2013, at 5:42 PM, Linn wrote:
I find this thread interesting. When I was a baby pilot I had a good
mentor .... for almost everything involving aviation. He said to fill
the tire until the outside rib just lifts off the ground. "Pounds don't
work well because a wide range of airplane weights use the same size
tire." Made sense to me so that's what I do. I get pretty even
tire wear. Of course we're talking RVs here and there is noo such thing
as even tire wear on the mains!!!
Have wheel pants? Get tubes with a 90 degree stem and drill a hole on
the wheel pant where the stem points. Go to a truck tire store and get
a couple of straight truck tire extensions. When you have the stem at
the right point paint a white line on the inside of the tire so when you
pull the airplane forward you can spot the white line and the tire
should be in the right position for filling. Find a plastic plug to fit
the hole (or is it the other way around) and your tire filling
nightmares go away.
Now, question: When you fill the tire to 60 Lbs, which rib is off the
ground?
Linn
On 4/22/2013 4:04 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
>
> Dave, I had a visit from Jim Rore out of Stockton.... and I had moved
my 10 to a friends hangar, and when Jim showed up I pulled his plane
in.... ABSOLUTELY couldn't believe how easy it was... keep in mind, I've
been moving mine in and out for 2 years. I asked him about it, and his
response made perfect sense, he carries (IIRC) 60 psi.... and has for a
long time... 5 or 6 years now. That's when I bumped my pressure up a
bit.
> Don McDonald
>
> --- On Mon, 4/22/13, Dave Saylor
wrote:
>
> From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire
pressure?
> To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com"
> Date: Monday, April 22, 2013, 2:26 PM
>
> I was using 45 main and 40 front until I switched to Desser retreads.
Then the plane got REALLY hard to pull out of the hangar. Checked brgs,
brakes, etc. I finally upped the pressures to 60/50 and it's good as
new.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 10:52 AM, Mike Whisky
wrote:
>
> Hi there,
> I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose
wheel tire. What PSI are you using?
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> MS -
> k">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> e -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navi="_blank"
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.co
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Release Date: 04/22/13
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
Photo attached of my Lowes-8A with metal inflation cap.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire press
ure?
Lowes Aircraft Supply makes a perfect metal plug for the hole you described
(I think I use one that's about 1.25"). It's in the odds and ends cabinet
s in their hardware section.
Marcus
On Apr 22, 2013, at 5:42 PM, Linn > wrote:
I find this thread interesting. When I was a baby pilot I had a good mento
r .... for almost everything involving aviation. He said to fill the tire
until the outside rib just lifts off the ground. "Pounds don't work well b
ecause a wide range of airplane weights use the same size tire." Made sens
e to me so that's what I do. I get pretty even tire wear. Of course we're
talking RVs here and there is noo such thing as even tire wear on the main
s!!!
Have wheel pants? Get tubes with a 90 degree stem and drill a hole on the w
heel pant where the stem points. Go to a truck tire store and get a couple
of straight truck tire extensions. When you have the stem at the right poi
nt paint a white line on the inside of the tire so when you pull the airpla
ne forward you can spot the white line and the tire should be in the right
position for filling. Find a plastic plug to fit the hole (or is it the ot
her way around) and your tire filling nightmares go away.
Now, question: When you fill the tire to 60 Lbs, which rib is off the grou
nd?
Linn
On 4/22/2013 4:04 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
Dave, I had a visit from Jim Rore out of Stockton.... and I had moved my 10
to a friends hangar, and when Jim showed up I pulled his plane in.... ABSO
LUTELY couldn't believe how easy it was... keep in mind, I've been moving m
ine in and out for 2 years. I asked him about it, and his response made pe
rfect sense, he carries (IIRC) 60 psi.... and has for a long time... 5 or 6
years now. That's when I bumped my pressure up a bit.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 4/22/13, Dave Saylor wrote:
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com><mailto:dave.saylor.ai
rcrafters(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire press
ure?
tronics.com>
Date: Monday, April 22, 2013, 2:26 PM
I was using 45 main and 40 front until I switched to Desser retreads. Then
the plane got REALLY hard to pull out of the hangar. Checked brgs, brakes
, etc. I finally upped the pressures to 60/50 and it's good as new.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 10:52 AM, Mike Whisky > wrote:
//130/mc/compose?to=rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>>
Hi there,
I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose whee
l tire. What PSI are you using?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com>
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
There are metal 'goof plugs' in the electrical section ..... it has a
zillion little metal fingers ..... that tear the dickens out of the
fiberglass so you don't want those. That's why I use the plastic ones.
Like this:
http://www.caplugs.com/productdetails.aspx?id=1000021&itemno=PIP+SERIES
I save all the plastic plugs/caps that show up in stuff I install and
typically use them.
Linn
On 4/22/2013 6:29 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> Lowes Aircraft Supply makes a perfect metal plug for the hole you
> described (I think I use one that's about 1.25"). It's in the odds
> and ends cabinets in their hardware section.
>
> Marcus
>
>
> On Apr 22, 2013, at 5:42 PM, Linn > wrote:
>
> I find this thread interesting. When I was a baby pilot I had a good
> mentor .... for almost everything involving aviation. He said to fill
> the tire until the outside rib just lifts off the ground. "Pounds
> don't work well because a wide range of airplane weights use the same
> size tire." Made sense to me so that's what I do. I get pretty even
> tire wear. Of course we're talking RVs here and there is noo such
> thing as even tire wear on the mains!!!
>
> Have wheel pants? Get tubes with a 90 degree stem and drill a hole on
> the wheel pant where the stem points. Go to a truck tire store and
> get a couple of straight truck tire extensions. When you have the stem
> at the right point paint a white line on the inside of the tire so
> when you pull the airplane forward you can spot the white line and the
> tire should be in the right position for filling. Find a plastic plug
> to fit the hole (or is it the other way around) and your tire filling
> nightmares go away.
>
> Now, question: When you fill the tire to 60 Lbs, which rib is off the
> ground?
> Linn
>
> On 4/22/2013 4:04 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
>> Dave, I had a visit from Jim Rore out of Stockton.... and I had moved
>> my 10 to a friends hangar, and when Jim showed up I pulled his plane
>> in.... ABSOLUTELY couldn't believe how easy it was... keep in mind,
>> I've been moving mine in and out for 2 years. I asked him about it,
>> and his response made perfect sense, he carries (IIRC) 60 psi.... and
>> has for a long time... 5 or 6 years now. That's when I bumped my
>> pressure up a bit.
>> Don McDonald
>>
>> --- On *Mon, 4/22/13, Dave Saylor
>> //* wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required
>> tire pressure?
>> To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com"
>> Date: Monday, April 22, 2013, 2:26 PM
>>
>> I was using 45 main and 40 front until I switched to Desser
>> retreads. Then the plane got REALLY hard to pull out of the
>> hangar. Checked brgs, brakes, etc. I finally upped the
>> pressures to 60/50 and it's good as new.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 10:52 AM, Mike Whisky
>> > > wrote:
>>
>> > >
>>
>> Hi there,
>> I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main
>> and nose wheel tire. What PSI are you using?
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navi="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.co
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>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG -
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>> <http://www.avg.com/>
>> Release Date: 04/22/13
>>
>
> *
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>
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>
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>
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> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
| Subject: | What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
Try Nitrogen...
The molecules are larger than air so it stops them pesky slow leaks...
Works for me 6 months and holding 96.3 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire
pressure?
40psi in front (sect 46-3 step 8)
42psi in rear (sect 48-3 step 4)
I run mine 2 psi higher- just to allow for longer period before needing to
remove pants and refill. even with the non leak I lose pressure over time.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Whisky
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure?
Hi there,
I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose wheel
tire. What PSI are you using?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 4/22/2013 8:46 PM, JimVillani wrote:
> Try Nitrogen...
> The molecules are larger than air so it stops them pesky slow leaks...
> Works for me 6 months and holding 96.3 hrs
>
Given that regular air is 78% nitrogen, are you saying that
everything but the nitrogen leaks out if using air? If so, wouldn't
that eventually leave just nitrogen if you kept refilling it?
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
Where does one get a nitrogen bottle?
Thanks,
Marcus
On Apr 22, 2013, at 8:46 PM, "JimVillani" wrote:
Try Nitrogen...
The molecules are larger than air so it stops them pesky slow leaks...
Works for me 6 months and holding 96.3 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire
pressure?
40psi in front (sect 46-3 step 8)
42psi in rear (sect 48-3 step 4)
I run mine 2 psi higher- just to allow for longer period before needing to
remove pants and refill. even with the non leak I lose pressure over time.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Whisky
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure?
Hi there,
I can't find anywhere the required tire pressure for the main and nose wheel
tire. What PSI are you using?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399123#399123
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
| Subject: | What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
I'm just telling you mine has held pressure for 6 months.
Something's you just can't explain,
Temps ranging from 25 degrees to 90 degrees so far this year
If it works who cares why???
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: What's the nose and main wheels required tire
pressure?
On 4/22/2013 8:46 PM, JimVillani wrote:
> Try Nitrogen...
> The molecules are larger than air so it stops them pesky slow leaks...
> Works for me 6 months and holding 96.3 hrs
>
Given that regular air is 78% nitrogen, are you saying that everything
but the nitrogen leaks out if using air? If so, wouldn't that eventually
leave just nitrogen if you kept refilling it?
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Glastar
Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
This is an OWT. As someone else pointed out, if the oxygen really diffused out
faster than nitrogen, you could fill with air, wait for the pressure to drop 20%,
refill with air and then have 96% nitrogen!
FBO's usually have a pressurized nitrogen bottle for filling struts, because (1)
the high pressure plus the right valves make the job easy, and (2) it keeps
water vapor (and rust) out.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399174#399174
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | LOP Article - FLYING magazine |
There is an article on LOP operations in the April issue of FLYING. Yes I k
now the May issue is in hand but I am just getting around to it. The articl
e has a simple graph and discusses the physics of LOP ops. It also discusse
s some history of why LOP ops and why there may be some historical misunder
standing or the procedure. Peter Garrison is an advocate of LOP operations
as I am but he even goes LOP right after takeoff and climbs out at 65% powe
r or less. Not sure I would get acceptable climb rates but I may give it a
try at some point.
Article Name: The Passion of Mixture
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LOP Article - FLYING magazine |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
No reason to limit yourself to 65% power LOP for climb. Many of the
Bonanza guys operate at 85% power LOP by doing the big mixture pull once
safely into cruise climb. If you simply pull back to 14.8 gph while at
full throttle, you will be LOP at 85%.
On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 7:12 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Peter Garrison is an advocate of LOP operations as I am but he even
> goes LOP right after takeoff and climbs out at 65% power or less. Not sure
> I would get acceptable climb rates but I may give it a try at some point.
>
> Article Name: The Passion of Mixture****
>
> ** **
>
> Robin****
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LOP Article - FLYING magazine |
Robin;
I do just that, I take off full power, at 1000ft AGL reduce rpm to
2500rpm, pull the throttle back to 65% and Lean out to 10.5 gph- which
is what I know is close enough for normal, based on testing this
scenario, my CHT=99s stay low and I climb out at 120-130kts as I
climb, I continue to give it more throttle to keep it at 65%, the plane
like this more, shown with lower pressures and temps, than full throttle
and so do I when 20gph goes down by half but my speed doesn=99t.
I also will do this and go to full throttle (after EMT) to get above the
hills to the north of us. the forward speed keeps the temps lower than
if I had left the throttle in the whole time.
From: Robin Marks
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 7:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: LOP Article - FLYING magazine
There is an article on LOP operations in the April issue of FLYING. Yes
I know the May issue is in hand but I am just getting around to it. The
article has a simple graph and discusses the physics of LOP ops. It also
discusses some history of why LOP ops and why there may be some
historical misunderstanding or the procedure. Peter Garrison is an
advocate of LOP operations as I am but he even goes LOP right after
takeoff and climbs out at 65% power or less. Not sure I would get
acceptable climb rates but I may give it a try at some point.
Article Name: The Passion of Mixture
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I pressurize nose to 45 and mains to 47 psi(5 over). My std Van's provided tires/tubes
lose 1 psi/month. Recheck every four months. I remove the nose pant and
fwd half of mains to inspect and clean while in there. Our pressures need to
be close to specs for proper energy absorption.
After 103 hrs my brake pads have worn less than 1/16" from new dimension. It helps
when you don't jam the brakes on to make that first turn off', maintain 70
kts on final and use the rudder to steer as much as possible.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399184#399184
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LOP Article - FLYING magazine |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I only climb LOP in cooler temps, light loads and over forgiving terrain. During
the summer at gross, I want my "free A/C" asap, climb better than a 172(500-700
fpm) and remain in glide range of the airport on climb out.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399185#399185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LOP Article - FLYING magazine |
I generally do WOT climbs to cruise, only leaning to keep "the same" EGT
temps to altitude. "The same" being the EGTs I get at say 1,000' AGL
with the mixture full rich (or at least at the mixture I decided to use
at a high elevation field).
As I understand it, this is not a LOP climb but rather a climb that
conservatively maintains the cooling effects of a full rich climb
without overdoing it. I then go to LOP cruise.
Bill "I couldn't afford to do this without some LOP ops" Watson
On 4/22/2013 11:08 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> I only climb LOP in cooler temps, light loads and over forgiving terrain. During
the summer at gross, I want my "free A/C" asap, climb better than a 172(500-700
fpm) and remain in glide range of the airport on climb out.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 103
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399185#399185
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
BTW, physics works both ways. If the tubes were really permeable to oxygen but
not nitrogen, and you filled the tube with 45 psi(g) pure nitrogen, then over
time you would see the pressure RISE about 5% as oxygen from the atmosphere diffused
into the tube!
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399195#399195
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
If moisture is present it contributes to a greater change in pressure simply because
at lower temperatures water condenses to become a liquid. The liquid form
of water occupies very little volume and contributes only a negligible pressure
to the tire. But at higher temperatures, such as those in a running tire,
water evaporates inside the tire and becomes a gas which increases pressure in
the tire.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399203#399203
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
1% Water Vapor and Other Gases Escapes up to 250 times faster than Nitrogen
21% Oxygen Escapes 3-4 times faster than Nitrogen
78% Nitrogen The largest molecule in
air, dry, non-flammable.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399204#399204
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | approach to landing |
I fly a couple of airplanes .... some with flaps, some without. My
finals are higher, steeper, and slower than my fellow pilots. l try to
keep my energy vector down the runway short because, like Wayne, I don't
do the braking thingy preferring airplane drag over brake pad
replacement. So, since I'm not flying the -10 yet, does it do a steep
approach well?
Linn
On 4/22/2013 11:01 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> I pressurize nose to 45 and mains to 47 psi(5 over). My std Van's provided tires/tubes
lose 1 psi/month. Recheck every four months. I remove the nose pant
and fwd half of mains to inspect and clean while in there. Our pressures need
to be close to specs for proper energy absorption.
>
> After 103 hrs my brake pads have worn less than 1/16" from new dimension. It
helps when you don't jam the brakes on to make that first turn off', maintain
70 kts on final and use the rudder to steer as much as possible.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 103
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399184#399184
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: approach to landing |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
It does do a steep approach well, but it is a little harder to keep your speed
down than with, say, a Cessna or Piper, just because it is so clean. I find I
approach a little steeper than the VASI at about 65kias on short final with full
flaps.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2013, at 7:45 AM, Linn wrote:
>
> I fly a couple of airplanes .... some with flaps, some without. My finals are
higher, steeper, and slower than my fellow pilots. l try to keep my energy vector
down the runway short because, like Wayne, I don't do the braking thingy
preferring airplane drag over brake pad replacement. So, since I'm not flying
the -10 yet, does it do a steep approach well?
> Linn
>
>
> On 4/22/2013 11:01 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>>
>> I pressurize nose to 45 and mains to 47 psi(5 over). My std Van's provided tires/tubes
lose 1 psi/month. Recheck every four months. I remove the nose pant
and fwd half of mains to inspect and clean while in there. Our pressures need
to be close to specs for proper energy absorption.
>>
>> After 103 hrs my brake pads have worn less than 1/16" from new dimension. It
helps when you don't jam the brakes on to make that first turn off', maintain
70 kts on final and use the rudder to steer as much as possible.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne G.
>> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
>> TT= 103
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399184#399184
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: approach to landing |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
At gross weight 2700 lbs, I maintain a minimum of 70 kts with full flaps, no or
little power, descend at plus or minus 1200 fpm. My 1G stall speed with full
flaps at gross is 53-54 KIAS. During our landing flare, my wife usually notices
about 65 KIAS when the wing gives up. On a perfect landing(ha), I want to be
1-2" AGL when this occurs. I think this IAS difference is due to acceleration
and possibly static port area pressure reduction. Steeper approaches hopefully
prepare me for that possible engine out. I don't use this approach with new
passengers or if any of us are having pressure equalization issues. It shortens
the time between flare initiation and touch down to about 5-10 seconds, so one
must always get it right or be ready to add some power in quickly to arrest
the high sink rate if you flare too high. Ground effect cannot always save the
day with short wings and fully loaded, so be careful. If you flare too late
the nose gear will take a beating, but it is pretty tough...not something we want
to make a habit of. I have never had to slip to get that steep approach like
I did in the 172's. The CS prop, big flaps and short wings are plenty enough.
Bringing it in on a normal 3 deg glideslope with some power sure makes landings
easier and smoother, but I like the windshield full of runway, elevator ride
and challenge most of the time.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399212#399212
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: approach to landing |
My RV-10 is on the fwd CG when I'm alone. This makes steeper approaches a
little more tricky than other planes I have flown. If I carry weight in the
back and/or carry some power with the steep approach it helps in the flare.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: approach to landing
>
> I fly a couple of airplanes .... some with flaps, some without. My finals
> are higher, steeper, and slower than my fellow pilots. l try to keep my
> energy vector down the runway short because, like Wayne, I don't do the
> braking thingy preferring airplane drag over brake pad replacement. So,
> since I'm not flying the -10 yet, does it do a steep approach well?
> Linn
>
>
> On 4/22/2013 11:01 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>>
>> I pressurize nose to 45 and mains to 47 psi(5 over). My std Van's
>> provided tires/tubes lose 1 psi/month. Recheck every four months. I
>> remove the nose pant and fwd half of mains to inspect and clean while in
>> there. Our pressures need to be close to specs for proper energy
>> absorption.
>>
>> After 103 hrs my brake pads have worn less than 1/16" from new dimension.
>> It helps when you don't jam the brakes on to make that first turn off',
>> maintain 70 kts on final and use the rudder to steer as much as possible.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne G.
>> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
>> TT= 103
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399184#399184
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
Hmm, that doesn't explain why we don't get to nearly pure nitrogen in
tires after adding air a few times.
On 4/23/2013 4:32 AM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> 1% Water Vapor and Other Gases Escapes up to 250 times faster than Nitrogen
>
> 21% Oxygen Escapes 3-4 times faster than Nitrogen
>
> 78% Nitrogen The largest molecule in
> air, dry, non-flammable.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 103
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399204#399204
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On my Glastar, the left main typically needs air every couple of months.
The right main typically needs air every 6-7 months. The nose wheel
only needs air about once per year.
Ironically, the left main is one of the special "leak guard" tubes,
whereas the right main is just a regular old cheap tube. Go figure.
I think it has more to do with the tube construction and valve seating
rather than what type of gas you put in.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: approach to landing |
I find the flaps quite effective and an idling CS prop to be a great
drag brake. I come over trees to a downhill landing quite a bit and
find it easy to do. It handles so well and easily, it can be kept in
close, tight and steep when desired... like when overhead as a Cirrus
lands long and hot and you want to beat him to the gas pump (I swear, I
didn't mean to beat you to the pump, please, you go first since you
landed first.... )
Having said that, I like carrying some power over the threshold. When
'normally loaded', i.e. no passengers in rear seats but with 50lbs of
luggage, I find it the easiest plane to get a 'roll-on', nose high
landing with little float. It doesn't stall in that configuration but
ends up with full back stick at touchdown. The control balance and
harmony is just perfect.
However, as I discussed with Wayne awhile ago, if I'm loaded with 2 in
the back it takes good timing in the flare or carrying some power to get
a good result.
Bill "at 290 hours thinking I need to give the original pads another
look" Watson
On 4/23/2013 7:45 AM, Linn wrote:
>
> I fly a couple of airplanes .... some with flaps, some without. My
> finals are higher, steeper, and slower than my fellow pilots. l try to
> keep my energy vector down the runway short because, like Wayne, I
> don't do the braking thingy preferring airplane drag over brake pad
> replacement. So, since I'm not flying the -10 yet, does it do a steep
> approach well?
> Linn
>
>
> On 4/22/2013 11:01 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>>
>> I pressurize nose to 45 and mains to 47 psi(5 over). My std Van's
>> provided tires/tubes lose 1 psi/month. Recheck every four months. I
>> remove the nose pant and fwd half of mains to inspect and clean while
>> in there. Our pressures need to be close to specs for proper energy
>> absorption.
>>
>> After 103 hrs my brake pads have worn less than 1/16" from new
>> dimension. It helps when you don't jam the brakes on to make that
>> first turn off', maintain 70 kts on final and use the rudder to steer
>> as much as possible.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne G.
>> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
>> TT= 103
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399184#399184
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS antenna screws too short |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Does anyone know the type of screws used for the Garmin GPS antenna, I need longer
ones than those provided. See attached picture.
Thanks Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399235#399235
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_120.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5 model)
with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the price or the difference
in the model?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399236#399236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
That is what I have on my RV-10. Did not have any problems with it.
No opinion on price. But, I bought a used engine and regretted it. Really
sis not save me enough to make a difference.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine purchase
I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5
model) with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the price or
the difference in the model?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399236#399236
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
The C4B5 is virtually identical, except it may have the different engine mount
ears (which you can change out). What plane did it come out of? What accessories
does it have. If it is a complete engine with good Fuel Injection system, mags
with 500 hr check done, good harnesses, starter, ring gear, fuel pump, etc,
and NO PROP STRIKE, then you might have a good buy. You can run the C4B5 at
2,700rpm for 260HP if you have the 8.5:1 pistons. If it was originally setup as
250HP, then they were running it at 2,575rpm. If it was 235HP, then it would
be the lower compression pistons (7.2:1, I think). We have 1,300 hours on our
C4B5 now and it keeps on going.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Apr 23, 2013, at 4:08 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5 model)
with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the price or the difference
in the model?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399236#399236
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Given that most fresh overhauled and new engines are north of $40K now,
doesn't sound bad, depending on how old since last overhaul in calendar
time, what kind of use it had and whether there is any hint of a prop
strike in its history.
There is no difference in model, just in rpm limit on data plate. At 2575
redline it is rated at 250 hp. Dial the governor up to 2700 and it makes
260 and is now a D4A5.
On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 1:08 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5
> model) with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the price
> or the difference in the model?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399236#399236
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: approach to landing |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
You'll notice a significant difference between partial flaps and full flaps. That
last notch induces a significant nose down pitch, and it's about right without
further trimming to maintain the speed you had. And yes, full flaps and no
power is reasonably steep. Not quite like a 182, but not too far different. The
10 has a powerful rudder, good in cross winds, and it does slip well if you
need to lose even more altitude.
As others have noted, at forward cg and full flaps it won't do a full stall landing,
so landing speeds are a bit higher than with aft cg.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399241#399241
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna screws too short |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Mine were just standard 8-32 screws.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2013, at 3:47 PM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
Does anyone know the type of screws used for the Garmin GPS antenna, I need longer
ones than those provided. See attached picture.
Thanks Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399235#399235
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_120.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Bob:
Seems like a good price if you are going to put it on your airplane as a
mid-time engine. Too much to pay if it is in need of overhaul. Things
to verify include whether or not the crankshaft is affected by any of
the ADs requiring replacement, whether it is complete, does it have
corrosion in the cylinders or on the cam/lifters. Also, verify if it
has cylinders that are affected by any SB or AD.
I would want the seller to guarantee that the crankshaft and crankcases
are repairable if it were me. If I were you, I'd ask to see the
logbooks and detailed parts list if the 700 hours are from overhaul
rather than new.
Good luck!
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine purchase
I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5
model) with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the
price or the difference in the model?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399236#399236
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Wayne,
I believe what you are quoting are not "escape rates" but rather the diffusion
coefficients of O2 and N2 thru rubber, in units of "number of molecules per thickness
per area per partial pressure difference".
To get the diffusion rate you need to multiply these numbers by the difference
in partial pressures (inside to outside). For a typical plane tire (filled to
45 psig, or 60 psi absolute) the difference in partial pressures are 36 psi for
N2, 9 psi for O2; so in fact the rate of loss (assuming the diffusion coefficient
for O2 is 4 times higher) is the same for both. Now, because there is less
oxygen, a given number loss results in a larger fractional loss, so this will
result in a net loss of total pressure which is faster than pure N2, and can
be seen in carefully controlled laboratory experiments, but it is nowhere near
4 times faster. Furthermore, as has been pointed out, after one or two re-fills
of air the tire has become enriched with N2 and depleted of O2, and is essentially
similar to the original all N2 tire, which will have O2 leaking in from
the outside until it has 3 psi (absolute) of O2 inside.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399250#399250
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
You may want a local a&p to take a peek at the cylinders. A friend purchased a
used engine that had been setting for a year in Las Vegas. That's not a place
where you would expect moisture issues. Sure enough, a boroscope found some
corrosion. He ended up negotiating a significant discount, which paid for a top
overhaul from Rhonda and Allan. After Allan was finished, he now has an engine
in a very known state.
I would give Rhonda a call directly. She'll make sure you know all the questions
to ask and what typical costs are if you need them to overhaul all or just
parts. Then you'll be well armed to negotiate.
You can't get better support than what Rhonda and Allan provides.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2013, at 5:21 PM, "Rhonda Bewley" wrote:
Bob:
Seems like a good price if you are going to put it on your airplane as a
mid-time engine. Too much to pay if it is in need of overhaul. Things
to verify include whether or not the crankshaft is affected by any of
the ADs requiring replacement, whether it is complete, does it have
corrosion in the cylinders or on the cam/lifters. Also, verify if it
has cylinders that are affected by any SB or AD.
I would want the seller to guarantee that the crankshaft and crankcases
are repairable if it were me. If I were you, I'd ask to see the
logbooks and detailed parts list if the 700 hours are from overhaul
rather than new.
Good luck!
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine purchase
I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5
model) with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the
price or the difference in the model?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399236#399236
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
At that price, make sure it was never on an Airboat....
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399255#399255
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)u.washington.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase |
>Subject: RV10-List: Engine purchase
>From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
>
>I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5
model)
>with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the price or the
difference
>in the model?
I found a really amazingly good deal advertised in Trade-a-Plane for a
newly rebuilt IO-360 engine, overhauled by an A&P/IA, for my RV-7A. The
engine failed catastrophically at 85 hrs. The seller is now in federal
prison in Oklahoma, and I get a small check from the Dept. of Justice about
twice a year, which will repay the price of the engine (as mandated by the
courts) in about 80 years. When disassembled by an FAA authorized repair
station, the engine contained parts that were stamped "Not Airworthy".
Not everybody in aviation is honest. When I built the RV-10, the clear
choice was a factory new engine, which has performed flawlessly for the past
600 hrs TTSN.
Caveat emptor...
Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD
RV-12 N122LD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I can't resist jumping into this one. I have 106 landings on the original Van's
tires. I have only filled them once - when I built them. They still have 42 in
the mains and 40 in the nose. I don't have wheel pants (hate 'em). Here is a
photo. Notice no uneven wear.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399274#399274
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv10tire_566.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase |
While there are always bad actors, one also has to understand that
choices are often made between seller/overhauler and the customer that
affect the end result.
Engines for experimental aircraft do not have to meet the standards for
certified engines. That can be good or bad. Parts can be reused that
would be rejected for certified engines. Some may be fine, others
dangerous. There isn't a universal answer.
If one doe not have the expertise to make those choices, then sticking
with a reputable shop or factory may be the best choice.
Some of us have the knowledge and ability to custom build an engine for
our project, but choose to not do so for many reasons, including getting
flying sooner rather than later.
I just did a safety seminar discussion on the crash of an RV-6, where
the owner chose to weld repair the governor line from the rear mounted
governor to the front of the engine. Such a repair is prohibited on
certified Lycoming engines by AD, for good reason. The repair failed and
the owner did not survive the ensuing crash.
Choose wisely.
Kelly
A&P/IA
On 4/24/2013 5:46 AM, Dan Masys wrote:
>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Engine purchase
>> From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
>>
>> I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5
> model)
>> with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the price or the
> difference
>> in the model?
> I found a really amazingly good deal advertised in Trade-a-Plane for a
> newly rebuilt IO-360 engine, overhauled by an A&P/IA, for my RV-7A. The
> engine failed catastrophically at 85 hrs. The seller is now in federal
> prison in Oklahoma, and I get a small check from the Dept. of Justice about
> twice a year, which will repay the price of the engine (as mandated by the
> courts) in about 80 years. When disassembled by an FAA authorized repair
> station, the engine contained parts that were stamped "Not Airworthy".
>
> Not everybody in aviation is honest. When I built the RV-10, the clear
> choice was a factory new engine, which has performed flawlessly for the past
> 600 hrs TTSN.
>
> Caveat emptor...
>
> Dan Masys
> RV-10 N104LD
> RV-12 N122LD
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New AFS touchscreen EFIS |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Here is a quick video of the new touchscreen EFIS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ABnIId2m0E
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399280#399280
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
I had a similar RV-6 event with an O-360 overhauled by an engine shop, although
the parts were correct they were not assembled correctly and the engine self
destructed at about 80 hours. For my Skybolt I got an 1100 SMOH engine from an
Aztec that a hanger fell on. Worked great. While a freshly overhauled engine
should be the way to go in a perfect world, and you certainly should get more
life out of it, there is something to be said about an engine that has already
been running for a while and proved that the mechanic didn't come up short
somewhere. I put a new IO-540 from Aerosport in the RV-10 and it has also worked
great. So nothing definitive, but a couple things to consider.
IMHO a 8
700 hour engine will give you plenty of time left before you should have to do
anything. I'd be more concerned about how recently it ran and what sort of life
it had during those 700 hours.
Marcus
On Apr 24, 2013, at 8:46 AM, "Dan Masys" wrote:
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine purchase
> From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
>
> I have located Lycoming IO540 C4B5 (as opposed to the Vans current D4A5
model)
> with 700 hr on it for $18.5K. Anyone have opinions about the price or the
difference
> in the model?
I found a really amazingly good deal advertised in Trade-a-Plane for a
newly rebuilt IO-360 engine, overhauled by an A&P/IA, for my RV-7A. The
engine failed catastrophically at 85 hrs. The seller is now in federal
prison in Oklahoma, and I get a small check from the Dept. of Justice about
twice a year, which will repay the price of the engine (as mandated by the
courts) in about 80 years. When disassembled by an FAA authorized repair
station, the engine contained parts that were stamped "Not Airworthy".
Not everybody in aviation is honest. When I built the RV-10, the clear
choice was a factory new engine, which has performed flawlessly for the past
600 hrs TTSN.
Caveat emptor...
Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD
RV-12 N122LD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Abgas UL 91 approved by Lycoming for the IO-540-D models |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
See press release from today
http://www.lycoming.com/news-and-events/press-releases/release-4-23-2013.html
Not sure what the price difference of UL91 is compared to 100LL.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399293#399293
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | Jayrowe <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
John Goodman: I understand you don't like wheel pants but in my 10 they make a
huge difference in airspeed. I took mine off before flying from KLVK to KSNS
for painting. After reaching cruise altitude (8.5K) I noted a 12K drop from
my usual IAS after double checking all my settings. I also had removed the main
gear fairings but not the nose wheel. After the paint job and with the fairings
and pants back on the IAS were back to the former "normals". In fact I may
have gained a knot or two (? clear coat?). Jay Rowe N333GR
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 24, 2013, at 6:22 AM, "johngoodman" wrote:
>
> I can't resist jumping into this one. I have 106 landings on the original Van's
tires. I have only filled them once - when I built them. They still have 42
in the mains and 40 in the nose. I don't have wheel pants (hate 'em). Here is
a photo. Notice no uneven wear.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399274#399274
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv10tire_566.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
> John Goodman: I understand you don't like wheel pants but in my 10 they make
a huge difference in airspeed. I took mine off before flying from KLVK to KSNS
for painting. After reaching cruise altitude (8.5K) I noted a 12K drop from
my usual IAS after double checking all my settings. I also had removed the
main gear fairings but not the nose wheel. After the paint job and with the fairings
and pants back on the IAS were back to the former "normals". In fact I
may have gained a knot or two (? clear coat?). Jay Rowe N333GR
>
Did you remove the wheel pant brackets? Probably not. I have all the fairings,
but no pants. My hubcaps probably give me a knot, as well. I'm guessing that the
lack of pants costs me 5 knots, max. The ability to pre-flight the wheel every
time is worth it - form follows function.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399298#399298
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I think you're both right. Like Jay, I noticed something like a 12 knot gain between
fairings and no fairings. But I also noticed, as Vans has said, that most
of the gain was due to the gear leg fairings, not the wheel pants.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399306#399306
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I can believe 5 kts like Bob. A round tube has 9 times the drag of a airfoil shape.
John, you started out with 42 psi and one year later ended with 42 psi? You have
some super rubber there! Or maybe every time you fly with your tires exposed,
the 160 kt air molecules are keeping the pressure maintained.
I do love the looks and speed of my pants. Exposed tires/brakes were really nice
for rentals. On mine, my preflight consist of ensuring they are not flat and
that I have good brake pressure.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399310#399310
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I really wouldn't be hard to get rid of the ugly exposed wheels by putting the
fairings on, but install a Camlok or similar latch right over the brakes if you
really wanted the speed, efficiency, AND ability to do a full preflight of the
wheels often. There is middle ground.
Tim
On Apr 24, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "rv10flyer" wrote:
>
> I can believe 5 kts like Bob. A round tube has 9 times the drag of a airfoil
shape.
>
> John, you started out with 42 psi and one year later ended with 42 psi? You have
some super rubber there! Or maybe every time you fly with your tires exposed,
the 160 kt air molecules are keeping the pressure maintained.
>
> I do love the looks and speed of my pants. Exposed tires/brakes were really nice
for rentals. On mine, my preflight consist of ensuring they are not flat and
that I have good brake pressure.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 103
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399310#399310
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Unleaded aviation fuel - what are our General Aviation champions |
doing to make 91/96UL AVGAS available? (was Avgas UL 91 approved by Lycoming
for the IO-540-D models)
Not really RV related, so delete now if you like.
While Lycoming is taking a much needed step toward a fuel that we can
actually afford, I'm afraid our aviation champions simply reject any option
other than a still non-existent 100LL drop in replacement. Below is an
email I wrote to both the EAA and AOPA last January. EAA did not respond.
AOPA sent a disjointed response about auto fuel availability in Virginia.
Perhaps if we all pinged on AOPA and EAA they may hear us over the turbine
noise.
Carl
I note with interest articles such as in General Aviation on aviation fuel
predictions:
http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2013/01/predictions-aviation-fuel-in-2013
/?utm_source=The+Pulse+Subscribers
<http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2013/01/predictions-aviation-fuel-in-201
3/?utm_source=The+Pulse+Subscribers&utm_campaign=6f588e756e-TP2013&utm_mediu
m=email> &utm_campaign=6f588e756e-TP2013&utm_medium=email
After a couple of decades of study and discussion, my evaluation is we are
on a trajectory toward avgas prices that simply end the private pilot aspect
of general aviation. We no longer have the luxury of time to cling to the
only acceptable option for 100LL as a full replacement drop in. I have
reviewed the "70%/30%" argument; 70% of all piston GA aircraft can run on
non-ethanol unleaded premium auto fuel based avgas such as 91/96UL, but the
remaining 30% of the piston GA aircraft that need 100LL consume 70% of the
fuel. This logic has run its course and now needs to be revised in the
light of current realities. I also question if we can rely on this
argument's base assumptions as they are untested by market demand as no
affordable unleaded aviation fuel is readily available, and is a backward
look at the legacy engine/aircraft population, not new engines/aircraft that
would be tailored for a 91/96UL environment.
For the private pilot segment of general aviation, a non-ethanol premium
auto fuel type product like 91/96UL is exactly the right solution and the
market base for the fuel makes it continued availability, at reasonable
prices, assured. While it is not a perfect, the clock is running out on
producing a 100LL replacement fuel. If such a full replacement is ever
delivered, the price for this novelty fuel is already estimated to be $.50
to $1 per gallon more than today's 100LL. The added cost will accelerate
the private pilot death spiral.
Although there are a few FBOs offering non-ethanol premium auto fuel the
market penetration is dismal. I also note little evidence of organized
efforts to promote widespread FBO, engine and aircraft manufacture embracing
of existing unleaded aviation fuel options. I recommend a new strategy. I
believe we have opportunity to bridge this fuel gap by a managed portfolio
of options. Some FBOs may choose to carry both 100LL and the lower octane
unleaded fuel, others may carry only one or the other based on their
customer demand. What is needed is advocacy to establish the required
policies and regulations, and collaboration with fuel suppliers, FBOs,
aircraft and engine manufactures, state and federal agencies. This will
mitigate the primary obstacle for 91/96UL adoption, legal risk.
While continued study of aviation fuel options is needed I believe we are at
a tipping point. $6+ per gallon is not sustainable for the majority of
private pilots paying for fuel out of their pocket. At the very least an
affordable unleaded aviation fuel option would help slow the continued
decline in the number of active private pilots.
Immediate action is needed to make an affordable 91/96UL type aviation fuel
widely available .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Whisky
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 2:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Abgas UL 91 approved by Lycoming for the IO-540-D models
rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
See press release from today
<http://www.lycoming.com/news-and-events/press-releases/release-4-23-2013.ht
ml>
http://www.lycoming.com/news-and-events/press-releases/release-4-23-2013.htm
l
Not sure what the price difference of UL91 is compared to 100LL.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399293#399293>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399293#399293
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unleaded aviation fuel - what are our General Aviation |
champions doing to make 91/96UL AVGAS available? (was Avgas UL 91 approved
by Lycoming for the IO-540-D models)
So far testing has not ruled out either the Swift Fuels 100UL, nor the
GAMI 100UL as drop-in replacements.
Since nearly 80% of all 100LL is burned by 20% of the fleet that
requires it, you are unlikely to see any FBOs willing to carry two
grades of fuel, thus a 100UL fuel will be the only choice. As it is,
most of the recip cargo planes are already operating at reduced power
from the 115/145 they were designed for. (Think DC-6, DC-7, etc.) Other
commercial aircraft like C414, C402, C421, PA-31. etc. also require 100
octane minimum. The privately flown lower compression aircraft that can
operate on 96 or lower octane only purchase something less than 20 % of
avgas sold, so are very unlikely to ever have a separate fuel stocked
for them.
When FBOs needed to stock Jet A, that spelled the end of 80/87, as no
one is going to spend the money to have 3 sets of tanks and pumps.
On 4/24/2013 5:48 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> Not really RV related, so delete now if you like.
>
> While Lycoming is taking a much needed step toward a fuel that we can
> actually afford, I'm afraid our aviation champions simply reject any
> option other than a still non-existent 100LL drop in replacement.
> Below is an email I wrote to both the EAA and AOPA last January. EAA
> did not respond. AOPA sent a disjointed response about auto fuel
> availability in Virginia.
>
> Perhaps if we all pinged on AOPA and EAA they may hear us over the
> turbine noise.
>
> Carl
>
> I note with interest articles such as in General Aviation on aviation
> fuel predictions:
> http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2013/01/predictions-aviation-fuel-in-2013/?utm_source=The+Pulse+Subscribers&utm_campaign=6f588e756e-TP2013&utm_medium=email
>
> After a couple of decades of study and discussion, my evaluation is we
> are on a trajectory toward avgas prices that simply end the private
> pilot aspect of general aviation. We no longer have the luxury of time
> to cling to the only acceptable option for 100LL as a full replacement
> drop in. I have reviewed the 70%/30% argument; 70% of all piston GA
> aircraft can run on non-ethanol unleaded premium auto fuel based avgas
> such as 91/96UL, but the remaining 30% of the piston GA aircraft that
> need 100LL consume 70% of the fuel. This logic has run its course and
> now needs to be revised in the light of current realities. I also
> question if we can rely on this arguments base assumptions as they
> are untested by market demand as no affordable unleaded aviation fuel
> is readily available, and is a backward look at the legacy
> engine/aircraft population, not new engines/aircraft that would be
> tailored for a 91/96UL environment.
>
> For the private pilot segment of general aviation, a non-ethanol
> premium auto fuel type product like 91/96UL is exactly the right
> solution and the market base for the fuel makes it continued
> availability, at reasonable prices, assured. While it is not a
> perfect, the clock is running out on producing a 100LL replacement
> fuel. If such a full replacement is ever delivered, the price for this
> novelty fuel is already estimated to be $.50 to $1 per gallon more
> than todays 100LL. The added cost will accelerate the private pilot
> death spiral.
>
> Although there are a few FBOs offering non-ethanol premium auto fuel
> the market penetration is dismal. I also note little evidence of
> organized efforts to promote widespread FBO, engine and aircraft
> manufacture embracing of existing unleaded aviation fuel options. I
> recommend a new strategy. I believe we have opportunity to bridge this
> fuel gap by a managed portfolio of options. Some FBOs may choose to
> carry both 100LL and the lower octane unleaded fuel, others may carry
> only one or the other based on their customer demand. What is needed
> is advocacy to establish the required policies and regulations, and
> collaboration with fuel suppliers, FBOs, aircraft and engine
> manufactures, state and federal agencies. This will mitigate the
> primary obstacle for 91/96UL adoption, legal risk.
>
> While continued study of aviation fuel options is needed I believe we
> are at a tipping point. $6+ per gallon is not sustainable for the
> majority of private pilots paying for fuel out of their pocket. At the
> very least an affordable unleaded aviation fuel option would help slow
> the continued decline in the number of active private pilots.
>
> Immediate action is needed to make an affordable 91/96UL type aviation
> fuel widely available .
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Whisky
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 2:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Abgas UL 91 approved by Lycoming for the IO-540-D
> models
>
> >
>
> See press release from today
>
> http://www.lycoming.com/news-and-events/press-releases/release-4-23-2013.html
>
> Not sure what the price difference of UL91 is compared to 100LL.
>
> Mike
>
> --------
>
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
>
> #511
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399293#399293
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Actually, I don't think the wheels are ugly. I guess it's just my background. I
learned to fly in the Navy and on every airplane I ever flew, you could see the
tires. Now that I'm long retired from the Navy and Northwest Airlines, I have
finally seen airplanes with pants. I just plain don't like the looks of them.
The RV-10 looks like it has watermelons where the tires should be.
I understand the drag thing, but it was pretty obvious that you are only loosing
a couple of knots per wheel. I cleaned up the wheels as much as I could and
added hubcaps to the mains - painted to look like the wheel of an AF-18. I actually
experimented with a small airfoil directly behind the tire but never had
the guts to test them. I was concerned about vibration and harmonics.
I'm happy with the results. Besides, think of all the money I saved by not having
painted watermelons...(g)
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399344#399344
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/inflight_177.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I just love this forum thanks to all who answered my question and I will start
as per plans and see how things develop from there.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399361#399361
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
just make sure the gap around the wheelpants and wheels are wide enough,
lower psi than you initially put in will cause the tire sides to bulge and
rub against the wheel pants, especially on landings. 1"gap all around is a
good start.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Whisky
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire
pressure?
I just love this forum thanks to all who answered my question and I will
start as per plans and see how things develop from there.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399361#399361
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's the nose and main wheels required tire pressure? |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I left 3/4" all the way around. I have had 42 plus or minus 5 psi in the mains
with many full load/firm landings and no evidence of rubbing the red paint as
of last week.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399374#399374
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Quickbuild sequence for RV10 |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Given limited space, I am wondering whether to order QB wings or finishing kit
next. I have QB fuselage and engine, still working in garage. Any experience with
doing the wings more or less last?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399436#399436
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild sequence for RV10 |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I don't know of anyone that's done that, but I don't see any issues off the top
of my head.
The finish kit is going to take up a lot of space until you get everything mounted
on the fuselage.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 26, 2013, at 10:39 AM, "bob88" wrote:
Given limited space, I am wondering whether to order QB wings or finishing kit
next. I have QB fuselage and engine, still working in garage. Any experience with
doing the wings more or less last?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399436#399436
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild sequence for RV10 |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I don't see a problem doing the wings last. All you need to care about is the wire
6 tube/hose length in case you plan to wire it through from your panel all
the way to landing lights, nav/strobe lights, trim & A/P servo, heated pitot
AOA, stall warning.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399442#399442
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild sequence for RV10 |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
I did that with mine and got my fuselage 90% before I did my wings.
It worked great for me. :D
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399443#399443
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quickbuild sequence for RV10 |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
It wont take you long to finish the QB wings. If you do them first, they will just
be taking up a lot of room while you finish everything else. I would do them
last if you are space limited.
Jim Berry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399446#399446
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hi all, I'm looking at various door and baggage locks for my -10. The
baggage door lock is a cam or barrel lock, 5/8" long.
Can those who have installed these same type of locks tell me what length
the main door locks need to be? My intention is to use Steve DiNeri's door
handles.
I'm actually considering a tubular cam type of lock as they are much more
solid with far less play in the lock mechanism. Maybe overkill but they
will make me feel much better tieing down outside when need be.
Any opinions welcomed.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
Rick;
I went to Home depot and bought a couple cabinet locks. Has worked for
me without failure on the pilot door and baggage door. I think I just
bought what they have, but I=99ll see if I can locate something
for you this weekend.
Pascal
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2013 7:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door locks
Hi all, I'm looking at various door and baggage locks for my -10. The
baggage door lock is a cam or barrel lock, 5/8" long.
Can those who have installed these same type of locks tell me what
length the main door locks need to be? My intention is to use Steve
DiNeri's door handles.
I'm actually considering a tubular cam type of lock as they are much
more solid with far less play in the lock mechanism. Maybe overkill but
they will make me feel much better tieing down outside when need be.
Any opinions welcomed.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
My door locks are the same length as the baggage lock. If you want everything keyed
alike, you can special order a keyed ignition switch and 3 door/baggage locks
from ACS.
Jim Berry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399466#399466
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I did the same. The special order only takes about a week extra and they are
dropped shipped from the manufacturer. I ordered some extra keys a few weeks
ago and they were shipped promptly as well.
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 27, 2013, at 12:33 AM, "Jim Berry" wrote:
>
> My door locks are the same length as the baggage lock. If you want everything
keyed alike, you can special order a keyed ignition switch and 3 door/baggage
locks from ACS.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399466#399466
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for the
climb?
also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
Alan
N668G 205 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I stay at 2700 (full power) to about 500' agl, then deduce power to about 24
50 squared until I'm at the desired altitude. My reasoning? I just don't
like the engine spinning that fast for very long and at 500', I should be a
ble to make it back to the runway.....
I did not have a lot of previous c/s prop experience so I am curious to see
what others say....
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 sold :-(
RV-10 flying :-)
KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
On Apr 27, 2013, at 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for
the climb?
> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>
> Alan
> N668G 205 hrs
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | James McGrew <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
There's a great book called 'Fly The Engine' by Kas Thomas. It has a lot of
good information I didn't learn in my flight training. I also learned some
good tips from my transition training with Mike Seager.
For my -10: As for throttle, for a cross country flight I wouldn't touch
the throttle until initial descent. After lifting off at 2700, I would
reduce RPM to 2600 for the initial climb out. Upon reaching 800' AGL I'd
reduce RPM to 2500 for the climb. I'd lean fuel flow by 3% every 1000' of
climb (roughly 0.5 gph per 1000'). I would climb to usually between 10k and
12.5k. At level off I would set the RPM between 2250 and 2450 and lean for
cruise. I leaned 50 degrees LOP. I switched tanks every 30 minutes and
changed the RPM every other tank change (every hour). I would, for example,
change RPM from 2450 to 2370 and re-lean. This is to help ensure you don't
inadvertently spend to much time on some component's harmonic in the engine.
-Jim
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for
> the climb?
> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>
> Alan
> N668G 205 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Jim,
Thanks for your reply. I was listening to a mike bush webinar and his was bi
g on low rpm high manifold pressures just the opposite if how i was tought.
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 27, 2013, at 8:17 AM, James McGrew wrote:
> There's a great book called 'Fly The Engine' by Kas Thomas. It has a lot o
f good information I didn't learn in my flight training. I also learned som
e good tips from my transition training with Mike Seager.
>
> For my -10: As for throttle, for a cross country flight I wouldn't touch t
he throttle until initial descent. After lifting off at 2700, I would reduce
RPM to 2600 for the initial climb out. Upon reaching 800' AGL I'd reduce RP
M to 2500 for the climb. I'd lean fuel flow by 3% every 1000' of climb (roug
hly 0.5 gph per 1000'). I would climb to usually between 10k and 12.5k. At l
evel off I would set the RPM between 2250 and 2450 and lean for cruise. I le
aned 50 degrees LOP. I switched tanks every 30 minutes and changed the RPM e
very other tank change (every hour). I would, for example, change RPM from 2
450 to 2370 and re-lean. This is to help ensure you don't inadvertently spen
d to much time on some component's harmonic in the engine.
>
> -Jim
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wr
ote:
>>
>> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power fo
r the climb?
>> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>>
>> Alan
>> N668G 205 hrs
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Aha, that's exactly what I need to know. Thx Jim. I did go to Home Depot
and buy 3- 5/8" cam locks but I then decided they were too poor a quality
to put in an airplane. I went to ACS and checked out their locks and I
then went to a local locksmith. He had better keyed locks, but he also has
the tubular cam locks which are way better design, quality etc. Of course
they're more money too. I intend to use a push to start switch in my plane
thus I don't need a keyed ignition switch.
Thx for every ones help.
Rick
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 12:33 AM, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> My door locks are the same length as the baggage lock. If you want
> everything keyed alike, you can special order a keyed ignition switch and 3
> door/baggage locks from ACS.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399466#399466
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | James McGrew <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
Couple things I forgot to mention above. I always took off full throttle.
Once airborne, if the MAP was >RPM I would reduce throttle for the climb to
keep from being over squared. It doesn't take long to get the throttle all
the back in at 25 squared. MAP continues to go down from there, at the
altitudes I cruised at MAP was never an issue.
-Jim
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 8:35 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
> Jim,
> Thanks for your reply. I was listening to a mike bush webinar and his was
> big on low rpm high manifold pressures just the opposite if how i was
> tought.
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 27, 2013, at 8:17 AM, James McGrew wrote:
>
> There's a great book called 'Fly The Engine' by Kas Thomas. It has a lot
> of good information I didn't learn in my flight training. I also learned
> some good tips from my transition training with Mike Seager.
>
> For my -10: As for throttle, for a cross country flight I wouldn't touch
> the throttle until initial descent. After lifting off at 2700, I would
> reduce RPM to 2600 for the initial climb out. Upon reaching 800' AGL I'd
> reduce RPM to 2500 for the climb. I'd lean fuel flow by 3% every 1000' of
> climb (roughly 0.5 gph per 1000'). I would climb to usually between 10k and
> 12.5k. At level off I would set the RPM between 2250 and 2450 and lean for
> cruise. I leaned 50 degrees LOP. I switched tanks every 30 minutes and
> changed the RPM every other tank change (every hour). I would, for example,
> change RPM from 2450 to 2370 and re-lean. This is to help ensure you don't
> inadvertently spend to much time on some component's harmonic in the engine.
>
> -Jim
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
>>
>> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power
>> for the climb?
>> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>>
>> Alan
>> N668G 205 hrs
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
A lot of how you choose to climb has to do with how much fuel you want to burn.
Personally, after 1500 agl, I reduce power to 24/2400. This gives me more than
adequate climb, 800 fpm and 120-130kts. The fuel burn rate goes way down.
I continue to lean in the climb to maintain takeoff egts until at cruise altitude.
I then set up for 8K + ft cruise and 25-40 deg LOP 65% power @ 2300 rpm.
This gives me roughly 165 kts TAS and fuel burn of 11 to 11.5 GPH depending
on the day.
There are some that do the big mixture pull and climb LOP, I have not tried that
yet. Not brave enough.....
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399479#399479
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
I use tubular key locks on planes as I find it is much harder to break off a
round key compared to a flat key. I don't lock the canopy/doors as I'd
rather have something stolen out of the panel instead of damage from forcing
a lock. I also do not use an ignition key other than a "start permissive"
key in series with the starter button. This prevents someone from spinning
the prop with the starter. For me spam can type single key start/mag select
switches are a source of unacceptable single point failure risk - and not
compatible with redundant power distribution schemes.
Both planes use Fort Lock MFW1038-80 (as example) cam locks for the baggage
door. These are made in America with heavy nickel plating. They are sold
under a variety of brand names and run less than $10 each.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
Aha, that's exactly what I need to know. Thx Jim. I did go to Home Depot
and buy 3- 5/8" cam locks but I then decided they were too poor a quality to
put in an airplane. I went to ACS and checked out their locks and I then
went to a local locksmith. He had better keyed locks, but he also has the
tubular cam locks which are way better design, quality etc. Of course
they're more money too. I intend to use a push to start switch in my plane
thus I don't need a keyed ignition switch.
Thx for every ones help.
Rick
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 12:33 AM, Jim Berry wrote:
My door locks are the same length as the baggage lock. If you want
everything keyed alike, you can special order a keyed ignition switch and 3
door/baggage locks from ACS.
Jim Berry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399466#399466
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arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
I have a very talented instructor airline pilot friend that says DON'T TOUCH A
THING after takeoff till you reach an altitude that you can safely return to the
airport. That includes flap retract. He says if you are going to have a problem
it will likely be on First Action either electrical or mechanical.
After you can make the field continue as you wish.
Currently at the West Coast Formation Clinic. Wish me luck!
Robin
"bill.peyton" wrote:
A lot of how you choose to climb has to do with how much fuel you want to burn.
Personally, after 1500 agl, I reduce power to 24/2400. This gives me more than
adequate climb, 800 fpm and 120-130kts. The fuel burn rate goes way down.
I continue to lean in the climb to maintain takeoff egts until at cruise altitude.
I then set up for 8K + ft cruise and 25-40 deg LOP 65% power @ 2300 rpm.
This gives me roughly 165 kts TAS and fuel burn of 11 to 11.5 GPH depending
on the day.
There are some that do the big mixture pull and climb LOP, I have not tried that
yet. Not brave enough.....
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399479#399479
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
I wonder where that instructor got his mechanical knowledge. Certainly
is telling you to operate differently than he does in his day job. I
guarantee you that all airline jets retract gear and reduce flaps long
before they could glide back to the airport. As a matter of fact, I
remember DC6's and 7's retracting gear as soon as they were 10 ft in the
air with barely positive rate of climb, because they needed the drag
reduction. I reduce flap setting when the angle of climb is no longer
needed to clear obstacles. You will glide better without flaps. I
reduce rpm at 800-1000 AGL for noise abatement and to reduce stress on
the prop. I keep full throttle until leveling off. Had to be amused by
the "oversquare" comments. Flat (horizontally opposed) engines have no
issues of being oversquare. Every aircraft with a fixed pitch prop runs
oversquare on takeoff. If it didn't, you would have to reduce power as
soon as the nose was lowered for cruise to keep from exceeding red line.
That whole over/under square discussion comes from radial engines that
turn much slower to start with.
As far as I know, no one has ever done a thorough, statistically sound,
analysis of failure at first power reduction or at first configuration
change. I believe it to be one of aviation's most strongly held old
wive's tale. Probably related to takeoffs with unairworthy aircraft to
begin with, that the failure would occur soon after takeoff regardless
of whether the controls were moved.
Kelly
On 4/27/2013 6:59 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I have a very talented instructor airline pilot friend that says DON'T TOUCH
A THING after takeoff till you reach an altitude that you can safely return to
the airport. That includes flap retract. He says if you are going to have a problem
it will likely be on First Action either electrical or mechanical.
> After you can make the field continue as you wish.
> Currently at the West Coast Formation Clinic. Wish me luck!
>
> Robin
>
> "bill.peyton" wrote:
>
>
> A lot of how you choose to climb has to do with how much fuel you want to burn.
Personally, after 1500 agl, I reduce power to 24/2400. This gives me more
than adequate climb, 800 fpm and 120-130kts. The fuel burn rate goes way down.
I continue to lean in the climb to maintain takeoff egts until at cruise altitude.
I then set up for 8K + ft cruise and 25-40 deg LOP 65% power @ 2300
rpm. This gives me roughly 165 kts TAS and fuel burn of 11 to 11.5 GPH depending
on the day.
> There are some that do the big mixture pull and climb LOP, I have not tried that
yet. Not brave enough.....
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399479#399479
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | FWF Scat Hose Clamps? |
The FWF plans call for eight AN737TW-66 hose clamps for the scat tubes.
However, I do not see them on the hardware list. Am I missing something?
Also, the Fuselage kit came with two, but four are needed to run the
scat for the heat?
-Sean #40303 (trying to finish up FWF)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FWF Scat Hose Clamps? |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
It sounds like you are missing some hardware. Mine came with all of those hose
clamps
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399497#399497
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Today I wanted to install my wingtip and I couldn't find the small nuts which hold
the RG cable to the bob archer antenna.
Can someone please let me know which nuts are required.
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399498#399498
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FWF Scat Hose Clamps? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I don't remember right off hand whether they are in the FWF kit or the
finish kit, they are NOT in the fuselage kit.
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> The FWF plans call for eight AN737TW-66 hose clamps for the scat tubes.
> However, I do not see them on the hardware list. Am I missing something?
>
> Also, the Fuselage kit came with two, but four are needed to run the scat
> for the heat?
>
> -Sean #40303 (trying to finish up FWF)
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF Scat Hose Clamps? |
Ya, there's 5 in the finish kit and 2 in the fuselage kit. But we need
8 for the fwf hoses and 4 for the heat in tunnel. Seems as there are 7
provided and 12 needed.
No matter. I just went to Auto... errrr... AeroZone and picked up the
extras.
Thanks,
-Sean #40303 (spending time searching for fwf parts in finish and fuse
kit instead of finishing fwf)
On 4/27/13 4:18 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I don't remember right off hand whether they are in the FWF kit or the
> finish kit, they are NOT in the fuselage kit.
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Sean Stephens > wrote:
>
> >
>
> The FWF plans call for eight AN737TW-66 hose clamps for the scat
> tubes. However, I do not see them on the hardware list. Am I
> missing something?
>
> Also, the Fuselage kit came with two, but four are needed to run
> the scat for the heat?
>
> -Sean #40303 (trying to finish up FWF)
>
> ===================================
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com> |
I have started working on the doors.
I drilled the fwd and aft index holes as indicated on 45-02, but when I lay
the door up, only the aft index hole matches. The forward hole is about 4
inches higher than when the fuselage "missing" rivet is.
Both doors are like this, with the fwd dimples about 4 inches higher than
the plans show.
Has anyone else run into this issue?
--
Vernon Franklin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Door Question |
Mine were that way also. I made a rivet hole transfer tool to locate the empty
dimpled rivet hole on the door. IIRC, Avery Tool carries these.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vernon Franklin" <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 9:15:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Question
I have started working on the doors.
I drilled the fwd and aft index holes as indicated on 45-02, but when I lay the
door up, only the aft index hole matches. The forward hole is about 4 inches
higher than when the fuselage "missing" rivet is.
Both doors are like this, with the fwd dimples about 4 inches higher than the plans
show.
Has anyone else run into this issue?
--
Vernon Franklin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door Question |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
As I recall, the index holes on the inner and outer door halves did not all line
up for me, either. The lines and scribe marks on my fiberglass parts were hard
to impossible to see.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399512#399512
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
At full gross 90% of the time with the family...WOT, 2700 to cruise altitude and
lean during ascent to maintain 1250-1275F takeoff EGT. Then RPM back to 2300-2400,
MP as necessary for 60-65%, FF= 9.5-10.5 at 25-40F LOP. I really like this
plane!
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399515#399515
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FWF Scat Hose Clamps? |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Auto Zone for me too. Yep, Van's cannot count.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399516#399516
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
My friends recommendation was specific to my RV and not to aircraft like a DC6
or maybe even the G550 he will take to Russia on 12 hours notice. if you are not
touching anything but the 3 degrees of flap before 800-1000' AGL than i might
as well abide by his recommendation for another 10 seconds before making those
changes.
While I don't believe everything I read or hear when a craftsman in their chosen
industry gives me a safety tip I give it extra weight.
Robin
Sent from the new iPad
On Apr 27, 2013, at 7:43 AM, "Kelly McMullen" wrote:
>
> I wonder where that instructor got his mechanical knowledge. Certainly is telling
you to operate differently than he does in his day job. I guarantee you
that all airline jets retract gear and reduce flaps long before they could glide
back to the airport. As a matter of fact, I remember DC6's and 7's retracting
gear as soon as they were 10 ft in the air with barely positive rate of climb,
because they needed the drag reduction. I reduce flap setting when the angle
of climb is no longer needed to clear obstacles. You will glide better without
flaps. I reduce rpm at 800-1000 AGL for noise abatement and to reduce stress
on the prop. I keep full throttle until leveling off. Had to be amused by
the "oversquare" comments. Flat (horizontally opposed) engines have no issues
of being oversquare. Every aircraft with a fixed pitch prop runs oversquare on
takeoff. If it didn't, you would have to reduce power as soon as the nose was
lowered for cruise to keep from exceeding red line. That whole over/under square
discussion comes from radial engines that turn much slower to start with.
> As far as I know, no one has ever done a thorough, statistically sound, analysis
of failure at first power reduction or at first configuration change. I believe
it to be one of aviation's most strongly held old wive's tale. Probably
related to takeoffs with unairworthy aircraft to begin with, that the failure
would occur soon after takeoff regardless of whether the controls were moved.
> Kelly
> On 4/27/2013 6:59 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>> I have a very talented instructor airline pilot friend that says DON'T TOUCH
A THING after takeoff till you reach an altitude that you can safely return to
the airport. That includes flap retract. He says if you are going to have a
problem it will likely be on First Action either electrical or mechanical.
>> After you can make the field continue as you wish.
>> Currently at the West Coast Formation Clinic. Wish me luck!
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> "bill.peyton" wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> A lot of how you choose to climb has to do with how much fuel you want to burn.
Personally, after 1500 agl, I reduce power to 24/2400. This gives me more
than adequate climb, 800 fpm and 120-130kts. The fuel burn rate goes way down.
I continue to lean in the climb to maintain takeoff egts until at cruise
altitude. I then set up for 8K + ft cruise and 25-40 deg LOP 65% power @ 2300
rpm. This gives me roughly 165 kts TAS and fuel burn of 11 to 11.5 GPH depending
on the day.
>> There are some that do the big mixture pull and climb LOP, I have not tried
that yet. Not brave enough.....
>>
>> --------
>> Bill
>> WA0SYV
>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399479#399479
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Perhaps. But I see far too many CFIs giving advice about engine
operation/management when they don't have any personal knowledge beyond
what their instructors told them. Repeating old wives tales doesn't count
as experience in my book.
My point is that I have never seen any data to assert that there is the
least bit of risk or increased risk by making engine or flap changes, or
gear changes on retracts once you have a positive rate of climb and 50 ft
or more altitude. I'd love to see some data. I don't believe it exists at
this time.
Perhaps if you have an unairworthy throttle or mixture control cable setup,
and retarding them causes a disconnect or jam, you might be facing a
partial power situation, but engine and flight controls are the areas that
your DAR should be giving special attention to on their inspection, and so
should you every time the cowling is off.
Kelly
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 11:01 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> My friends recommendation was specific to my RV and not to aircraft like a
> DC6 or maybe even the G550 he will take to Russia on 12 hours notice. if
> you are not touching anything but the 3 degrees of flap before 800-1000'
> AGL than i might as well abide by his recommendation for another 10 seconds
> before making those changes.
> While I don't believe everything I read or hear when a craftsman in their
> chosen industry gives me a safety tip I give it extra weight.
>
> Robin
> Sent from the new iPad
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hello Carl
Thx for the info with regards to the tubular cam locks. I checked out the
Fort Lock locks, mostly from Grainger. I plan to go and order 3 keyed
alike locks tomorrow. Since you mentioned you have a push to start engine
switch, do you have a schematic you'd care to share showing how the switch
and ignition is wired? My engine has 2 impulse coupled Slick Mags if
that's matters. I haven't taken the time to search for a wiring diagram yet
but I do need to start thinking about it.
I liked your description of having a "start permissive" switch in line. If
you know of any other place I could find some "push to start" please let me
know.
Thx for any help.
Regards, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 9:55 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
> I use tubular key locks on planes as I find it is much harder to break of
f
> a round key compared to a flat key. I don=92t lock the canopy/doors as I
=92d
> rather have something stolen out of the panel instead of damage from
> forcing a lock. I also do not use an ignition key other than a =93start
> permissive=94 key in series with the starter button. This prevents someo
ne
> from spinning the prop with the starter. For me spam can type single key
> start/mag select switches are a source of unacceptable single point failu
re
> risk ' and not compatible with redundant power distribution schemes.***
*
>
> ** **
>
> Both planes use Fort Lock MFW1038-80 (as example) cam locks for the
> baggage door. These are made in America with heavy nickel plating. They
> are sold under a variety of brand names and run less than $10 each.****
>
> ** **
>
> Carl****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Lark
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 27, 2013 8:43 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks****
>
> ** **
>
> Aha, that's exactly what I need to know. Thx Jim. I did go to Home Depo
t
> and buy 3- 5/8" cam locks but I then decided they were too poor a quality
> to put in an airplane. I went to ACS and checked out their locks and I
> then went to a local locksmith. He had better keyed locks, but he also ha
s
> the tubular cam locks which are way better design, quality etc. Of cours
e
> they're more money too. I intend to use a push to start switch in my pla
ne
> thus I don't need a keyed ignition switch.****
>
> Thx for every ones help.****
>
> Rick****
>
> ** **
>
> On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 12:33 AM, Jim Berry wrote:**
*
> *
>
>
> My door locks are the same length as the baggage lock. If you want
> everything keyed alike, you can special order a keyed ignition switch and
3
> door/baggage locks from ACS.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399466#399466
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> ****
>
> ** **
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Could someone please be so kind and check on the VOR Bob Archer antenna the screw/nut
size on which the ring-terminals of the RG antenna cable will be attached?
I will need to order these nuts and won't be in the hangar until Wednesday.
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399537#399537
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Mike I am not at the airport so I cannot answer your question. My memory is that
they were either 4-40 or 6-32.
If I were you I would just go down to a hardware store and buy the closest metric
equivalent screw and lock nut that I could find, enlarging the hole if needed.
Certainly nothing critical here.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399543#399543
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Cutting Made Easy! |
The first step with any Van's canopy installation is cutting the plexiglass bubble
out of the molding frame. For me, this went smoothly mostly thanks to an awesome
tool called a "Roto-Zip" that is available from a local Lowes hardware
store. I have a right-angle cut-off wheel attachment for it. I can't remember
if this came with it or if I bought it separately as an accessory. In either case,
it is a must have for this Plexi cutting. I got some 3.5" "metal cutting
wheels" for it and I have to say it is the cat's meow when it comes to cutting
the canopies out. The tool has plenty of power and doesn't bog down, yet it is
very controllable and accurate cutting is pretty easy. Don't get me wrong, this
is definitely a manly tool and it requires a fair amount of respect. But it
has just the right weight and fits nicely in your hand. The right-angle attachment
can be unlatched and spun in any direction in relation to the handle and
cord, which is really nice. Highly recommend!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi Bob,
the antenna is already installed and riveted under the nut plates, so I can#t remove
the screws and replace them with metric ones.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399589#399589
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Bob Archers email is as follows:
bobsantennas(at)earthlink.net
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399591#399591
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Cutting Made Easy! |
Good tip. But I am more impressed with your carpeted work shop!
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:44:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Canopy Cutting Made Easy!
The first step with any Van's canopy installation is cutting the plexiglass bubble
out of the molding frame. For me, this went smoothly mostly thanks to an awesome
tool called a "Roto-Zip" that is available from a local Lowes hardware
store. I have a right-angle cut-off wheel attachment for it. I can't remember
if this came with it or if I bought it separately as an accessory. In either case,
it is a must have for this Plexi cutting. I got some 3.5" "metal cutting
wheels" for it and I have to say it is the cat's meow when it comes to cutting
the canopies out. The tool has plenty of power and doesn't bog down, yet it is
very controllable and accurate cutting is pretty easy. Don't get me wrong, this
is definitely a manly tool and it requires a fair amount of respect. But it
has just the right weight and fits nicely in your hand. The right-angle attachment
can be unlatched and spun in any direction in relation to the handle and
cord, which is really nice. Highly recommend!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
If I am light and climbing 1500+fpm, I sometimes leave things alone because the
MP will come down quickly enough. Otherwise, I takeoff with flaps in reflex,
full power, mixture full rich (at or near sea level), at about 1,000 ft AGL I
pull power to 25" and prop to 2500rpm (sometimes leave it in, but our engine is
redline at 2575rpm anyway), add MP to maintain 25" in the climb until I'm full
rich, then leave it there, leaning to the low 1300's on EGT during climb. In
cruise, I really like 20" 2400rpm and 10.5 gph or so, unless I'm in a great
big hurry. On descent, if I'm high, I move mixture to 12gph, keep pulling MP back
to 20" as I descend and prop at 2200rpm. Mixture and Prop go full in as I
approach the pattern.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Apr 27, 2013, at 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for the
climb?
> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>
> Alan
> N668G 205 hrs
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
Am I missing something? My understanding is that the C4B5 engine or
close variants are rpm limited only by the certified airframes they were
installed in....such as Aztec or Comanche 250, and that there was no
reason not to increase the governor limit to 2700. Perhaps Rhonda can
educate me.
On 4/29/2013 6:53 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> If I am light and climbing 1500+fpm, I sometimes leave things alone because the
MP will come down quickly enough. Otherwise, I takeoff with flaps in reflex,
full power, mixture full rich (at or near sea level), at about 1,000 ft AGL
I pull power to 25" and prop to 2500rpm (sometimes leave it in, but our engine
is redline at 2575rpm anyway), add MP to maintain 25" in the climb until I'm
full rich, then leave it there, leaning to the low 1300's on EGT during climb.
In cruise, I really like 20" 2400rpm and 10.5 gph or so, unless I'm in a great
big hurry. On descent, if I'm high, I move mixture to 12gph, keep pulling MP
back to 20" as I descend and prop at 2200rpm. Mixture and Prop go full in as
I approach the pattern.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Apr 27, 2013, at 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
>>
>> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for the
climb?
>> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>>
>> Alan
>> N668G 205 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
For the sake of future requests and to feed the archive. It is a #4-40 nut.
Thanks to Bob Archer who answered my request.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399686#399686
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
For the past 280 hours, I generally takeoff and climb to cruise with WOT
and max RPMs of 2700. I lean to roughly maintain a constant EGT after
about 1500' MSL. That's not a lot of leaning and definitely not LOP,
just conservatively maintaining the over rich setting used for a sea
level takeoff.
Once at cruise, usually 7k to 10k, I maintain WOT, reduce RPMs to MP
minus 1. That is if I have 23"MP then I set RPMs to 2200. Then go to
LOP. This gives me between 150 to 156 TAS with a burn of between 10.5
at 10k to 12.2 at 6k.
Other notes:
I have started to reduce RPMs to 2600 after takeoff because it just
feels more comfortable.
I used to use 'one notch' of flaps for TO on my soft home field and 0 on
hard surface. Now I just use one notch in all situations.
I climb at 0 flaps and go to reflex when reaching cruise altitude.
On the ground, I try to maintain 1000RPMs or better at all times to keep
lead fouling at a minimum.
Thanks for asking the question - I am curious too.
Bill
On 4/27/2013 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for the
climb?
> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>
> Alan
> N668G 205 hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Bill,
I have been using neutral flaps on my 5800 ft runway. if Rw less than 3000 one
notch of flaps. I climb full power 2700 rpm due to terrain. In cruise i have been
using 2300-2400 rpm and usually about 21 in MAP at 8500 msl.
Alan
On Apr 30, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> For the past 280 hours, I generally takeoff and climb to cruise with WOT and
max RPMs of 2700. I lean to roughly maintain a constant EGT after about 1500'
MSL. That's not a lot of leaning and definitely not LOP, just conservatively
maintaining the over rich setting used for a sea level takeoff.
>
> Once at cruise, usually 7k to 10k, I maintain WOT, reduce RPMs to MP minus 1.
That is if I have 23"MP then I set RPMs to 2200. Then go to LOP. This gives
me between 150 to 156 TAS with a burn of between 10.5 at 10k to 12.2 at 6k.
>
> Other notes:
> I have started to reduce RPMs to 2600 after takeoff because it just feels more
comfortable.
>
> I used to use 'one notch' of flaps for TO on my soft home field and 0 on hard
surface. Now I just use one notch in all situations.
>
> I climb at 0 flaps and go to reflex when reaching cruise altitude.
>
> On the ground, I try to maintain 1000RPMs or better at all times to keep lead
fouling at a minimum.
>
> Thanks for asking the question - I am curious too.
>
> Bill
>
> On 4/27/2013 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>>
>> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for the
climb?
>> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>>
>> Alan
>> N668G 205 hrs
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power settings |
I depart WOT, full RPM. I'm based at SL and I see about 27.5" on takeoff.
I wish that was higher.
When I'm clear of the traffic pattern I reduce RPM to about 2500. I use
the %HP indicator on my engine monitor to tell me when to lean. I know 75%
is the rule but I usually start leaning below 70%. Once I'm in cruise-climb
I reduce RPM further to about 2250. My engine doesn't peak nicely so I
just pull the mixture until it's too rough to live with then richen it up
til it runs better. Even then it still misses occasionally but not so
badly that I can see it on the EGTs or anything--just some minor roughness.
That usually nets me a cruise of 160KTAS on 10.0 to 10.7 GPH. I can go a
little faster for a little more fuel, a little faster still with more RPM,
to about 165 at altitude. But I usually don't. The power setting I use
just seems comfortable.
I depart with flaps at 0 and retract to reflex at the first power change.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 2:40 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> For the past 280 hours, I generally takeoff and climb to cruise with WOT
> and max RPMs of 2700. I lean to roughly maintain a constant EGT after
> about 1500' MSL. That's not a lot of leaning and definitely not LOP, just
> conservatively maintaining the over rich setting used for a sea level
> takeoff.
>
> Once at cruise, usually 7k to 10k, I maintain WOT, reduce RPMs to MP minus
> 1. That is if I have 23"MP then I set RPMs to 2200. Then go to LOP. This
> gives me between 150 to 156 TAS with a burn of between 10.5 at 10k to 12.2
> at 6k.
>
> Other notes:
> I have started to reduce RPMs to 2600 after takeoff because it just feels
> more comfortable.
>
> I used to use 'one notch' of flaps for TO on my soft home field and 0 on
> hard surface. Now I just use one notch in all situations.
>
> I climb at 0 flaps and go to reflex when reaching cruise altitude.
>
> On the ground, I try to maintain 1000RPMs or better at all times to keep
> lead fouling at a minimum.
>
> Thanks for asking the question - I am curious too.
>
> Bill
>
> On 4/27/2013 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
>>
>> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power
>> for the climb?
>> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent)
>>
>> Alan
>> N668G 205 hrs
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Electric system |
Hi there
It's time to think about and design the electric system, so can you guys
please tell me which system did you use.
Did you follow one of Bob Nuckolls architecture systems? Which one?
Yes, I know that I have to do the load analysis.
Regards
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Electric system |
I found this on the 'net. Probably a good place to start. I used it as
a guide but added lots of things.
Linn
On 5/1/2013 12:35 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Hi there
>
> It's time to think about and design the electric system, so can you guys
> please tell me which system did you use.
> Did you follow one of Bob Nuckolls architecture systems? Which one?
>
> Yes, I know that I have to do the load analysis.
>
> Regards
> Carlos
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Electric system |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
April 05, 2013 - May 01, 2013
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ji