RV10-Archive.digest.vol-jk
May 23, 2013 - July 07, 2013
>> Not to hijack the thread or change focus, but here's another point to
>> consider. Timing specifics notwithstanding, our engines were tested
>> rigorously and certificated using two synchronized sparks. (Yes, I
>> understand that many of us are not operating in as-certificated
>> configuration, but isn't that the basis of our safety and performance
>> expectations?). Certification includes prop combinations and
>> vibration analysis for structural integrity.
>
> To be fair, the only ignition system available at the time of
> certification was the mag. I highly doubt any new engine being
> certificated today would use mags.
>
> Your point about prop combinations and vibration analysis is well
> taken, however.
>
> -Dj
>
>
-----
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 5/23/2013 9:03 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Advanced timing does not increase the burn time.
That is correct, and not what I was trying to say.
Because the spark happens earlier in the cycle compared to the mag,
the fuel has more time to burn before the piston hits maximum
compression with the EI than it does with the mag. This is one reason
why it doesn't really matter that only the one spark plug of the EI is
firing versus the two simultaneous mag plugs firing.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition |
Just thinking out loud .....
I wonder if the increase in burn time is significant since while the EI
ignition occurs earlier the fuel is not compressed as much and the flame
front is actually slower at that ignition point. The increased
compression may cause secondary ignition by the mag ......
Just thinking ....
Linn
On 5/23/2013 9:13 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 5/23/2013 9:03 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> Advanced timing does not increase the burn time.
>
> That is correct, and not what I was trying to say.
>
> Because the spark happens earlier in the cycle compared to the
> mag, the fuel has more time to burn before the piston hits maximum
> compression with the EI than it does with the mag. This is one reason
> why it doesn't really matter that only the one spark plug of the EI is
> firing versus the two simultaneous mag plugs firing.
>
> -Dj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Has anyone come up with a good way to attach the 1/8 tubing to the rivet Van's
recommends for a static port? The Van's suggestion of using RTV sealant does not
seem to be secure enough.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401367#401367
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static system |
| From: | "mdaniell" <martin.daniell(at)bigpond.com> |
Many people seem to be happy with the Vans solution. Another option is offered
by Cleaveland Tool(and others). The Cleaveland solution appears to have the same
profile as the Vans rivet. Static port design seems to stimulate discussion
on the scale of the Primer Wars, you might like to search for other posts on
the subject.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401372#401372
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static system |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Well, given that airframe, engine and avionics/panel average out to near
equal thirds, depending on how much priority you put in each, most figure
on spending around $150K or more on a -10, and you are going to rely on a
couple pop rivets for everything that depends on static system? Really goes
to Van's viewpoint that all their products are for day VFR leisure trips,
only.
That may start some discussion. ;-)
On Sun, May 26, 2013 at 1:31 AM, mdaniell wrote:
>
> Many people seem to be happy with the Vans solution. Another option is
> offered by Cleaveland Tool(and others). The Cleaveland solution appears to
> have the same profile as the Vans rivet. Static port design seems to
> stimulate discussion on the scale of the Primer Wars, you might like to
> search for other posts on the subject.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401372#401372
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static system |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Couldn't agree more Kelly. I used the ones sold by Avery tool, I believe they
are actually safe-air1. My air speeds are within a knot of being spot on.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401378#401378
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/static_ports_01_902.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static system |
But - a simple design that works is hard to beat. I solved a static error
on my first plane created by "very nicely machined commercial static ports"
and used the same approach on the RV-10. No static error. Below is what I
posted on this awhile back.
Carl
I used a couple of 3/16" AN470 rivets with a 1/16" hole drilled through the
head and the rivet shank. I made a 1" diameter x 1/4" thick aluminum ring
(disc with a 3/16" hole drill in the center) as a backing plate to the
rivet. The round rivet head sits on the outside of the skin (3/16" hole in
the skin). The 1" diameter, 1/4" thick backing plate (with a 3/16" hole in
the middle) is epoxied over the rivet shank to the inside of the skin. The
protruding rivet head moves the static port just a little out of the skin
flow layer - this is what helps mitigate against static port error. The
backing plate just adds some rigidity to the install and more glue area for
the rivet. This provides a sturdy connection to RTV on the 1/4" static
tubing. The 3/16" rivet shack is a perfect fit for 1/4" tubing to slide
over. No fittings required or desired.
Get a dozen or so of the rivets as it takes a couple of tries to get the
hole drill right in the center of the shank. You want a rivet shank an inch
or so long.
I did final paint over the rivet heads with a toothpick in the 1/16" holes
to keep them open.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static system
Well, given that airframe, engine and avionics/panel average out to near
equal thirds, depending on how much priority you put in each, most figure on
spending around $150K or more on a -10, and you are going to rely on a
couple pop rivets for everything that depends on static system? Really goes
to Van's viewpoint that all their products are for day VFR leisure trips,
only.
That may start some discussion. ;-)
On Sun, May 26, 2013 at 1:31 AM, mdaniell
wrote:
Many people seem to be happy with the Vans solution. Another option is
offered by Cleaveland Tool(and others). The Cleaveland solution appears to
have the same profile as the Vans rivet. Static port design seems to
stimulate discussion on the scale of the Primer Wars, you might like to
search for other posts on the subject.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401372#401372
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==========
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==========
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="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
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- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Looking at installing ADS-B. What are most people going with? one inexpensive
option is upgrading my garmin gtx330 transponder to ES
and receiving traffic on fore flight through stratus2(which i already had because
i wanted to get rid of xm weather fees) Has anyone done the 330 upgrade?
My concern with the 330 upgrade to 1090ES is unless i'm near a ground station
I won't get air to air from UAT ADS-B planes.
Why the FAA had to go with 2 bands sure makes this more complicated than it should.
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I'm about to order my prop. Is there any reason to go with anything other
than stock 13" with the stock cowling?
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Size |
Ha! Probably the best choice is stock. I had a James Cowl disaster that is
well documented. I switched over to the first production Showplanes cowl a
nd have been very pleased. Perfect temps all the way around plus an inducti
on system that is well designed and executed. The finish on the SP cowl is
superior to any Vans fiberglass. But you will need a 15" spinner which is
pricy.
In general plans built is best but I have yet to see a downside to the SP c
owl. Very well designed, and produced.
Robin
Kelly McMullen wrote:
I'm about to order my prop. Is there any reason to go with anything other t
han stock 13" with the stock cowling?
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Here is a source for the polished aluminum 14" Hartzell spinner, at a much
reduced price, if you decide to do the James Cowl:
Chris Tieman
Mustang Aeronautics, Inc.
1470 Temple City
Troy, MI 48084
(248) 649-6818
www.MustangAero.com
Chris Tieman [Chris(at)MustangAero.com]
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spinner Size
Ha! Probably the best choice is stock. I had a James Cowl disaster that is
well documented. I switched over to the first production Showplanes cowl
and have been very pleased. Perfect temps all the way around plus an
induction system that is well designed and executed. The finish on the SP
cowl is superior to any Vans fiberglass. But you will need a 15" spinner
which is pricy.
In general plans built is best but I have yet to see a downside to the SP
cowl. Very well designed, and produced.
Robin
Kelly McMullen wrote:
I'm about to order my prop. Is there any reason to go with anything other
than stock 13" with the stock cowling?
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ics.com
.matronics.com/contribution
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
r>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
I have one of those 14" plus another sitting on the shelf if interested.
Robin
Carl Froehlich wrote:
Here is a source for the polished aluminum 14" Hartzell spinner, at a much
reduced price, if you decide to do the James Cowl:
Chris Tieman
Mustang Aeronautics, Inc.
1470 Temple City
Troy, MI 48084
(248) 649-6818
www.MustangAero.com<http://www.MustangAero.com>
Chris Tieman [Chris(at)MustangAero.com]
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spinner Size
Ha! Probably the best choice is stock. I had a James Cowl disaster that is
well documented. I switched over to the first production Showplanes cowl a
nd have been very pleased. Perfect temps all the way around plus an inducti
on system that is well designed and executed. The finish on the SP cowl is
superior to any Vans fiberglass. But you will need a 15" spinner which is
pricy.
In general plans built is best but I have yet to see a downside to the SP c
owl. Very well designed, and produced.
Robin
Kelly McMullen > wrote:
I'm about to order my prop. Is there any reason to go with anything other t
han stock 13" with the stock cowling?
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ics.com
.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
r>
&nbs====================http://www.
matronic================
http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp;
--> http://www.matronics.com/c=
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Size |
Since I have been stuck at the 90/90 level for awhile, I am NOT looking
to do any more mods/expense, even though the Showplanes cowling looks
very nice.
So 13" it will be on stock cowl.
On 5/26/2013 7:38 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> I have one of those 14" plus another sitting on the shelf if interested.
>
> Robin
>
> Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> Here is a source for the polished aluminum 14" Hartzell spinner, at a
> much reduced price, if you decide to do the James Cowl:
>
> Chris Tieman
>
> Mustang Aeronautics, Inc.
>
> 1470 Temple City
>
> Troy, MI 48084
>
> (248) 649-6818
>
> www.MustangAero.com <http://www.MustangAero.com>
>
> Chris Tieman [Chris(at)MustangAero.com]
>
> Carl
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robin Marks
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 26, 2013 5:45 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Spinner Size
>
> Ha! Probably the best choice is stock. I had a James Cowl disaster that is well
documented. I switched over to the first production Showplanes cowl and have
been very pleased. Perfect temps all the way around plus an induction system
that is well designed and executed. The finish on the SP cowl is superior to
any Vans fiberglass. But you will need a 15" spinner which is pricy.
> In general plans built is best but I have yet to see a downside to the SP cowl.
Very well designed, and produced.
>
> Robin
>
> Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
>
> I'm about to order my prop. Is there any reason to go with anything
> other than stock 13" with the stock cowling?
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> * *
> * *
> *p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> *ics.com*
> *.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> r>
>
> * *
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> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous
> nbsp; --> http://www.matronics.com/c
> * *
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> *
>
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> ics.com
> .matronics.com/contribution
>
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> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> r>
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor drive |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction drive is, I don`t have
my engine documentation currently with me. Does anyone know who has an TMX-io540
Red/Gold? I just want to be sure that the P-860-3 MT governor is really the
correct one.
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need is whether
you have a narrow deck version or a wide deck. Which one you have
depends on the core used to build the engine, not who assembled it.
You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow deck have
hollow allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional hex nuts on studs.
The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck. (despite the
fact that all new engines Vans sells are wide deck). While adjustments
can be made to make the Vans governor work on a wide deck, it still
won't be correct. Jim Ayers has often posted here the correct
information. A wide deck engine is supposed to get a P-860-5 MT governor.
More detail on the differences at
http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-deck-engines/
On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction drive is, I don`t have
my engine documentation currently with me. Does anyone know who has an TMX-io540
Red/Gold? I just want to be sure that the P-860-3 MT governor is really
the correct one.
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
All TMX engines should be wide deck.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On May 27, 2013, at 7:59 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need is whether you have
a narrow deck version or a wide deck. Which one you have depends on the core
used to build the engine, not who assembled it.
> You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow deck have hollow
allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional hex nuts on studs.
> The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck. (despite the fact that
all new engines Vans sells are wide deck). While adjustments can be made to
make the Vans governor work on a wide deck, it still won't be correct. Jim Ayers
has often posted here the correct information. A wide deck engine is supposed
to get a P-860-5 MT governor.
> More detail on the differences at http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-deck-engines/
> On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>>
>> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction drive is, I don`t
have my engine documentation currently with me. Does anyone know who has an TMX-io540
Red/Gold? I just want to be sure that the P-860-3 MT governor is really
the correct one.
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Assuming that they are built from new parts kits or WD cores. It didn't
occur to me that anyone would still have an engine built from new parts
kit, since Lyc priced those out of the market about 18 months ago. As has
been noted before, if one has a wide deck engine, then the MT P-860-5
governor is the correct unit of that brand. It is unfortunate that Van's
still only supplies the narrow deck P-860-3 governor, when they have never
sold a new narrow deck engine. (Lyc stopped making narrow deck more than 10
yrs before Van founded his company).
On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> All TMX engines should be wide deck.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On May 27, 2013, at 7:59 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> >
> > The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need is whether
> you have a narrow deck version or a wide deck. Which one you have depends
> on the core used to build the engine, not who assembled it.
> > You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow deck have
> hollow allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional hex nuts on studs.
> > The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck. (despite the
> fact that all new engines Vans sells are wide deck). While adjustments can
> be made to make the Vans governor work on a wide deck, it still won't be
> correct. Jim Ayers has often posted here the correct information. A wide
> deck engine is supposed to get a P-860-5 MT governor.
> > More detail on the differences at
> http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-deck-engines/
> > On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
> >>
> >> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction drive is, I
> don`t have my engine documentation currently with me. Does anyone know who
> has an TMX-io540 Red/Gold? I just want to be sure that the P-860-3 MT
> governor is really the correct one.
> >> Thanks
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> --------
> >> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> >> #511
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
Not sure if it has been brought up already but I have an MT -3 governor
on a wide deck IO-540-N1A5 and it works fine with full RPM range.
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly McMullen
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: how can I find out the gear reduction for the
governor drive
Assuming that they are built from new parts kits or WD cores. It
didn't occur to me that anyone would still have an engine built from new
parts kit, since Lyc priced those out of the market about 18 months ago.
As has been noted before, if one has a wide deck engine, then the MT
P-860-5 governor is the correct unit of that brand. It is unfortunate
that Van's still only supplies the narrow deck P-860-3 governor, when
they have never sold a new narrow deck engine. (Lyc stopped making
narrow deck more than 10 yrs before Van founded his company).
On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
All TMX engines should be wide deck.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On May 27, 2013, at 7:59 PM, Kelly McMullen
wrote:
>
> The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need is
whether you have a narrow deck version or a wide deck. Which one you
have depends on the core used to build the engine, not who assembled it.
> You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow deck
have hollow allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional hex nuts on
studs.
> The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck. (despite
the fact that all new engines Vans sells are wide deck). While
adjustments can be made to make the Vans governor work on a wide deck,
it still won't be correct. Jim Ayers has often posted here the correct
information. A wide deck engine is supposed to get a P-860-5 MT
governor.
> More detail on the differences at
http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-d
eck-engines/
> On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>>
>> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction drive
is, I don`t have my engine documentation currently with me. Does anyone
know who has an TMX-io540 Red/Gold? I just want to be sure that the
P-860-3 MT governor is really the correct one.
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
Whew!!! I'm really glad to hear that!!!! I just checked, and mine is a
-3 also. I'm in the baffling baffling section and scratched mine all
up. Don't think they'll trade now. My group flies to Deland (FL) for
food (none where we live ;-) ) right next to the MT facility which we'll
try and tour. I'll pose the question.
Linn
On 5/28/2013 10:43 AM, Seano wrote:
> Not sure if it has been brought up already but I have an MT -3
> governor on a wide deck IO-540-N1A5 and it works fine with full RPM range.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Kelly McMullen
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 28, 2013 8:19 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: how can I find out the gear reduction
> for the governor drive
>
> Assuming that they are built from new parts kits or WD cores. It
> didn't occur to me that anyone would still have an engine built
> from new parts kit, since Lyc priced those out of the market about
> 18 months ago. As has been noted before, if one has a wide deck
> engine, then the MT P-860-5 governor is the correct unit of that
> brand. It is unfortunate that Van's still only supplies the narrow
> deck P-860-3 governor, when they have never sold a new narrow deck
> engine. (Lyc stopped making narrow deck more than 10 yrs before
> Van founded his company).
>
>
> On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Jesse Saint
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> All TMX engines should be wide deck.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On May 27, 2013, at 7:59 PM, Kelly McMullen
> > wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need
> is whether you have a narrow deck version or a wide deck.
> Which one you have depends on the core used to build the
> engine, not who assembled it.
> > You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow
> deck have hollow allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional
> hex nuts on studs.
> > The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck.
> (despite the fact that all new engines Vans sells are wide
> deck). While adjustments can be made to make the Vans governor
> work on a wide deck, it still won't be correct. Jim Ayers has
> often posted here the correct information. A wide deck engine
> is supposed to get a P-860-5 MT governor.
> > More detail on the differences at
> http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-deck-engines/
> > On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction
> drive is, I don`t have my engine documentation currently with
> me. Does anyone know who has an TMX-io540 Red/Gold? I just
> want to be sure that the P-860-3 MT governor is really the
> correct one.
> >> Thanks
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> --------
> >> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> >> #511
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
My -3 also has worked fine after some minor speed adjustments. I spoke to MT and
it is acceptable.
The -3 or -5 defines the settings relief valve pressure, max. RPM, control arm
travel and position etc.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401477#401477
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Kelly, if I read your post correctly, all of the new Lycoming engines sold
by VANS of the IO-540 variant are now only Wide Deck and not Narrow Deck.
Aren't each of the wide deck jugs heavier and too wide to fit the stock
RV-10 fiberglass cowl design? Or is that just for the Angle Valve Heads
versus Parallel Valve?
John C.
On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 7:19 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Assuming that they are built from new parts kits or WD cores. It didn't
> occur to me that anyone would still have an engine built from new parts
> kit, since Lyc priced those out of the market about 18 months ago. As has
> been noted before, if one has a wide deck engine, then the MT P-860-5
> governor is the correct unit of that brand. It is unfortunate that Van's
> still only supplies the narrow deck P-860-3 governor, when they have never
> sold a new narrow deck engine. (Lyc stopped making narrow deck more than 10
> yrs before Van founded his company).
>
>
> On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>>
>> All TMX engines should be wide deck.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On May 27, 2013, at 7:59 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need is whether
>> you have a narrow deck version or a wide deck. Which one you have depends
>> on the core used to build the engine, not who assembled it.
>> > You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow deck have
>> hollow allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional hex nuts on studs.
>> > The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck. (despite the
>> fact that all new engines Vans sells are wide deck). While adjustments can
>> be made to make the Vans governor work on a wide deck, it still won't be
>> correct. Jim Ayers has often posted here the correct information. A wide
>> deck engine is supposed to get a P-860-5 MT governor.
>> > More detail on the differences at
>> http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-deck-engines/
>> > On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction drive is, I
>> don`t have my engine documentation currently with me. Does anyone know who
>> has an TMX-io540 Red/Gold? I just want to be sure that the P-860-3 MT
>> governor is really the correct one.
>> >> Thanks
>> >> Mike
>> >>
>> >> --------
>> >> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
>> >> #511
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Read this topic online here:
>> >>
>> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -----
>> > No virus found in this message.
>> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
John,
That's just for the angle head cylinders. Both narrow deck and wide deck
engines fit the RV-10 cowl.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: how can I find out the gear reduction for the
governor drive
Kelly, if I read your post correctly, all of the new Lycoming engines
sold by VANS of the IO-540 variant are now only Wide Deck and not Narrow
Deck. Aren't each of the wide deck jugs heavier and too wide to fit the
stock RV-10 fiberglass cowl design? Or is that just for the Angle Valve
Heads versus Parallel Valve?
John C.
On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 7:19 AM, Kelly McMullen
wrote:
Assuming that they are built from new parts kits or WD cores. It didn't
occur to me that anyone would still have an engine built from new parts
kit, since Lyc priced those out of the market about 18 months ago. As
has been noted before, if one has a wide deck engine, then the MT
P-860-5 governor is the correct unit of that brand. It is unfortunate
that Van's still only supplies the narrow deck P-860-3 governor, when
they have never sold a new narrow deck engine. (Lyc stopped making
narrow deck more than 10 yrs before Van founded his company).
On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
All TMX engines should be wide deck.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On May 27, 2013, at 7:59 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need is whether
you have a narrow deck version or a wide deck. Which one you have
depends on the core used to build the engine, not who assembled it.
> You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow deck have
hollow allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional hex nuts on studs.
> The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck. (despite the
fact that all new engines Vans sells are wide deck). While adjustments
can be made to make the Vans governor work on a wide deck, it still
won't be correct. Jim Ayers has often posted here the correct
information. A wide deck engine is supposed to get a P-860-5 MT
governor.
> More detail on the differences at
http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-
deck-engines/
> On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>>
>> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction drive is, I
don`t have my engine documentation currently with me. Does anyone know
who has an TMX-io540 Red/Gold? I just want to be sure that the P-860-3
MT governor is really the correct one.
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
I'm not Kelly .... nor do I play him on TV .... but there's a big
misconception about WD/ND engines. There's a good treatise here:
*http://tinyurl.com/qjk83xk
Linn
*
On 5/28/2013 11:47 AM, John Cox wrote:
> Kelly, if I read your post correctly, all of the new Lycoming engines
> sold by VANS of the IO-540 variant are now only Wide Deck and not
> Narrow Deck. Aren't each of the wide deck jugs heavier and too wide
> to fit the stock RV-10 fiberglass cowl design? Or is that just for
> the Angle Valve Heads versus Parallel Valve?
>
> John C.
>
>
> On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 7:19 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
> Assuming that they are built from new parts kits or WD cores. It
> didn't occur to me that anyone would still have an engine built
> from new parts kit, since Lyc priced those out of the market about
> 18 months ago. As has been noted before, if one has a wide deck
> engine, then the MT P-860-5 governor is the correct unit of that
> brand. It is unfortunate that Van's still only supplies the narrow
> deck P-860-3 governor, when they have never sold a new narrow deck
> engine. (Lyc stopped making narrow deck more than 10 yrs before
> Van founded his company).
>
>
> On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Jesse Saint
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> All TMX engines should be wide deck.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On May 27, 2013, at 7:59 PM, Kelly McMullen
> > wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need
> is whether you have a narrow deck version or a wide deck.
> Which one you have depends on the core used to build the
> engine, not who assembled it.
> > You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow
> deck have hollow allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional
> hex nuts on studs.
> > The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck.
> (despite the fact that all new engines Vans sells are wide
> deck). While adjustments can be made to make the Vans governor
> work on a wide deck, it still won't be correct. Jim Ayers has
> often posted here the correct information. A wide deck engine
> is supposed to get a P-860-5 MT governor.
> > More detail on the differences at
> http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-deck-engines/
> > On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction
> drive is, I don`t have my engine documentation currently with
> me. Does anyone know who has an TMX-io540 Red/Gold? I just
> want to be sure that the P-860-3 MT governor is really the
> correct one.
> >> Thanks
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> --------
> >> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> >> #511
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
Yes, the -3 works with some adjustment. However, the -5 has the correct
gear reduction and pressures to begin with, so given the opportunity to
get the correct one rather than having to make adjustments, for the same
money seems like one of the easier build decisions.
On 5/28/2013 8:03 AM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> My -3 also has worked fine after some minor speed adjustments. I spoke to MT
and it is acceptable.
>
> The -3 or -5 defines the settings relief valve pressure, max. RPM, control arm
travel and position etc.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 103
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401477#401477
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
drive
It is more fun when the lovely Miss Rhonda shows John the errors in his
thinking. ;-))
I don't think there is more than about 1/4" difference between wide and
narrow deck engines. Narrow deck allegedly is about 4 lbs lighter, but
the newest ND case is likely to be approaching 40 yrs old.
Kelly
On 5/28/2013 9:05 AM, BPA wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Thats just for the angle head cylinders. Both narrow deck and wide
> deck engines fit the RV-10 cowl.
>
> Allen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Cox
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 28, 2013 9:48 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: how can I find out the gear reduction for
> the governor drive
>
> Kelly, if I read your post correctly, all of the new Lycoming engines
> sold by VANS of the IO-540 variant are now only Wide Deck and not
> Narrow Deck. Aren't each of the wide deck jugs heavier and too wide to
> fit the stock RV-10 fiberglass cowl design? Or is that just for the
> Angle Valve Heads versus Parallel Valve?
>
> John C.
>
> On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 7:19 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
> Assuming that they are built from new parts kits or WD cores. It
> didn't occur to me that anyone would still have an engine built from
> new parts kit, since Lyc priced those out of the market about 18
> months ago. As has been noted before, if one has a wide deck engine,
> then the MT P-860-5 governor is the correct unit of that brand. It is
> unfortunate that Van's still only supplies the narrow deck P-860-3
> governor, when they have never sold a new narrow deck engine. (Lyc
> stopped making narrow deck more than 10 yrs before Van founded his
> company).
>
> On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Jesse Saint > wrote:
>
> >
>
> All TMX engines should be wide deck.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
> On May 27, 2013, at 7:59 PM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > The only thing that determines what gear reduction you need is
> whether you have a narrow deck version or a wide deck. Which one you
> have depends on the core used to build the engine, not who assembled it.
> > You can easily tell by the cylinder hold down bolts. Narrow deck
> have hollow allen key bolts. Wide deck has conventional hex nuts on studs.
> > The governor Van's sells has reduction for narrow deck. (despite the
> fact that all new engines Vans sells are wide deck). While adjustments
> can be made to make the Vans governor work on a wide deck, it still
> won't be correct. Jim Ayers has often posted here the correct
> information. A wide deck engine is supposed to get a P-860-5 MT governor.
> > More detail on the differences at
> http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2009/10/ask-paul-wide-deck-vs-narrow-deck-engines/
> > On 5/27/2013 3:51 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I own an TMXIO-540 and wonder what the governor reduction drive is,
> I don`t have my engine documentation currently with me. Does anyone
> know who has an TMX-io540 Red/Gold? I just want to be sure that the
> P-860-3 MT governor is really the correct one.
> >> Thanks
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> --------
> >> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> >> #511
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401444#401444
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> * *
> * *
> *get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> *tp://forums.matronics.com*
> *_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
driv
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
I understand you can make the MT governor sold by Van's work by changing the arm
position and making a few adjustments as that is what we did. But can someone
tell me what the operational impact is of having the incorrect one installed?
Slower reaction, incorrect pitch for a given power, pitch changes too quickly,
etc.? Just because it works doesn't mean it is right, just trying to understand
what trade off is being made. -Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401517#401517
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop |
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
>
> Does anyone FLYING have the Hartzell Governor - Vans number: PROP GOV HZ IO-540?
If so, any issues? Set up, oil leaks, RPM hunting, or just any performance
or regrets for not getting the MT or some other governor? Having trouble
understanding why if we bought a Hartzell Prop from Vans that we would not use
a Hartzell Governor. In the FWF kit they automatically ship the MT: P-860-3.
I called MT and they said it would work just fine and they would be happy
to walk me through the set up procedures if needed. So I would appreciate some
active feedback from some FLYING 10's with this Hartzell Governor. I believe
in my 6 that we used a Woodward (sp?) Governor. Over 1000 hours and many years,
absolutely no problems.
Thanks much,
Rich Hansen
RV-6A sold
10-FWF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I have a Hartzell governor, but am a few weeks from flying.
Sent from my iPad
On May 30, 2013, at 2:04 AM, Karol Hansen wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Does anyone FLYING have the Hartzell Governor - Vans number: PROP GOV HZ IO-540?
If so, any issues? Set up, oil leaks, RPM hunting, or just any performance
or regrets for not getting the MT or some other governor? Having trouble
understanding why if we bought a Hartzell Prop from Vans that we would not use
a Hartzell Governor. In the FWF kit they automatically ship the MT: P-860-3.
I called MT and they said it would work just fine and they would be happy
to walk me through the set up procedures if needed. So I would appreciate some
active feedback from some FLYING 10's with this Hartzell Governor. I believe
in my 6 that we used a Woodward (sp?) Governor. Over 1000 hours and many years,
absolutely no problems.
> Thanks much,
>
> Rich Hansen
> RV-6A sold
> 10-FWF
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop |
"a few weeks from flying" that sounds promising. :) Enjoy
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 3:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop
I have a Hartzell governor, but am a few weeks from flying.
Sent from my iPad
On May 30, 2013, at 2:04 AM, Karol Hansen wrote:
> -->
>
>
>>
>> Does anyone FLYING have the Hartzell Governor - Vans number: PROP GOV HZ
IO-540? If so, any issues? Set up, oil leaks, RPM hunting, or just any
performance or regrets for not getting the MT or some other governor?
Having trouble understanding why if we bought a Hartzell Prop from Vans that
we would not use a Hartzell Governor. In the FWF kit they automatically
ship the MT: P-860-3. I called MT and they said it would work just fine
and they would be happy to walk me through the set up procedures if needed.
So I would appreciate some active feedback from some FLYING 10's with this
Hartzell Governor. I believe in my 6 that we used a Woodward (sp?)
Governor. Over 1000 hours and many years, absolutely no problems.
> Thanks much,
>
> Rich Hansen
> RV-6A sold
> 10-FWF
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I have 120+ hours on stock Vans YIO-540, 2 blade Hartzell, and Hartzell governor
from Vans. No problems. I asked Vans for this governor, as I recall I think
it was the same price as the MT.
You do NOT need a new arm. You do need to re-orient the arm, easily done. Hartzell
gave instructions after an email request.
Mine was set for 2650 rpm out of the box. I left it there.
My hangar neighbor also has a -10 with the same Hartzell set up, a few fewer hours.
No issues for him, either.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401593#401593
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sound Proofing and Heat Shield |
| From: | Jonathan Beasley <jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com> |
Any recommendations for sound proofing and firewall heat shield? Obviously
many choices are available=8A Soundex, 3M, Super Sound Proof, Heat Shield Mat
,
etc. What is working well in RV10 land? It would be interesting to see how
many people have selected to install sound proofing vs. going =B3au naturale=B2
.
----
Jonathan Beasley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sound Proofing and Heat Shield |
Check out this discussion on vans air force.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=97778
Bill Greenley, RV-10 in progress
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan Beasley
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield
Any recommendations for sound proofing and firewall heat shield? Obviously
many choices are available. Soundex, 3M, Super Sound Proof, Heat Shield Mat,
etc. What is working well in RV10 land? It would be interesting to see how
many people have selected to install sound proofing vs. going "au naturale".
----
Jonathan Beasley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
driv
| From: | Jim Ayers <lessdragprod(at)aol.com> |
The -3 and -5 governors are identical, except for the final adjustments.
For the -3 governor on the wide deck IO-540 engine, the high RPM stop screw
has to be turned out quite a bit to get to 2700 RPM from the factory setti
ng of about 2550 RPM. (For the narrow deck IO-540 engine, the initial stop
setting on the -3 governor would be at about 2700 RPM.)
The -3 governor on a wide deck IO-540 now has a longer travel to get to th
e low RPM stop. The governor arm should have full travel from the high RPM
stop to the low RPM stop.
Perhaps someone already flying can say if they have full travel (stop to st
op) available with Van's governor cable.
Full governor arm travel is helpful to have for the mag check so it is poss
ible to get the expected 450 RPM drop when the governor/propeller is cycled
.
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: jkreidler <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2013 8:52 am
Subject: RV10-List: Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the gover
nor driv
m>
I understand you can make the MT governor sold by Van's work by changing th
e arm
position and making a few adjustments as that is what we did. But can some
one
tell me what the operational impact is of having the incorrect one installe
d?
Slower reaction, incorrect pitch for a given power, pitch changes too quick
ly,
etc.? Just because it works doesn't mean it is right, just trying to under
stand
what trade off is being made. -Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401517#401517
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield |
I sprayed on a sound proofer. and heat shield. If I was doing it again.
I would get a heat blanket for the firewall and keep the top of the line
headsets, skip the sound proofing all together. Even with all the sound
proofing I did I still have a plane that is so loud when cruising that I
wonder what it would be like with out it, so I wear Lightspeed Zulu and
it all goes away.
As a reference when I knocked on the skin it had a noise that went away
with the sound proofer so it does something, just not much up in the
air.
From: Jonathan Beasley
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 8:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield
Any recommendations for sound proofing and firewall heat shield?
Obviously many choices are available Soundex, 3M, Super Sound
Proof, Heat Shield Mat, etc. What is working well in RV10 land? It would
be interesting to see how many people have selected to install sound
proofing vs. going =9Cau naturale=9D.
----
Jonathan Beasley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
FiberFrax sandwiched between Stainless Steel.
Pics start here:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/D
SC03158.html
read about it: : http://deemsrv10.com/upperfwdfuseinstallationlogindex.html
Secv 41 Faux...
On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 9:22 AM, Pascal wrote:
> I sprayed on a sound proofer. and heat shield. If I was doing it again.
> I would get a heat blanket for the firewall and keep the top of the line
> headsets, skip the sound proofing all together. Even with all the sound
> proofing I did I still have a plane that is so loud when cruising that I
> wonder what it would be like with out it, so I wear Lightspeed Zulu and i
t
> all goes away.
> As a reference when I knocked on the skin it had a noise that went away
> with the sound proofer so it does something, just not much up in the air.
>
>
> *From:* Jonathan Beasley
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 30, 2013 8:32 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield
>
> Any recommendations for sound proofing and firewall heat shield?
> Obviously many choices are available=85 Soundex, 3M, Super Sound Proof, H
eat
> Shield Mat, etc. What is working well in RV10 land? It would be interesti
ng
> to see how many people have selected to install sound proofing vs. going
=93
> *au naturale*=94.
>
> ----
> Jonathan Beasley
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
*
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First Engine Run :-)))))) |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Yesterday I achieved a major milestone, first engine start.
All went well and all systems work as expected.
The video is cut a bit because watching a prop turn without any instruments isn't
that exciting for the audience ;-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxwI5bNZ1Uk
Cheers
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401618#401618
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Engine Run :-)))))) |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Congratulations! It looks like you are getting very close, even the paint is done.
Have a fantastic and safe first flight.
If the WX cooperates mine should be out of the paint shop next week.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401654#401654
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard location)
vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about experience
with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would solve the problems
the tunnel location has?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=99641917?KEYS=pulsation_damper?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=1955173315?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Have mine in the tunnel. I had a low fuel pressure warning twice- it was
0ver 85F on a climb, otherwise never had any issue with it's accuracy.
Many will tell you to move it to the firewall, Dynon, for one, tells the
installers not to, and all I can think is that it would be even hotter there
than in the tunnel.
-----Original Message-----
From: bob88
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
damper
I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard
location) vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about
experience with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would
solve the problems the tunnel location has?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
I have Skyview Revision N Install manual. I see nothing in that manual
saying the sensor should not go forward of the firewall. The EI Red Cube
(current Dynon sensor) is installed on many certified aircraft. For
Lycoming engines with Bendix fuel injection, the STC required location
is between the mechanical pump and the fuel servo inlet, away from
exhaust pipes. I have one in that location on my Mooney.
The tunnel has known problems, more likely from the fact it is on the
suction side of the mechanical pump than from heat.
On 5/31/2013 7:58 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=99641917?KEYS=pulsation_damper?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=1955173315?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
>
>
> Have mine in the tunnel. I had a low fuel pressure warning twice- it
> was 0ver 85F on a climb, otherwise never had any issue with it's
> accuracy.
> Many will tell you to move it to the firewall, Dynon, for one, tells
> the installers not to, and all I can think is that it would be even
> hotter there than in the tunnel.
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: bob88
> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
> damper
>
>
> I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel
> (standard location) vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion?
> What about experience with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems
> like it would solve the problems the tunnel location has?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
The beauty of putting the cube in the tunnel is that you get to remove & relocate
it once you are flying. Talk about enjoyable! I did as the plans describe and
had 2-3 gph fluctuations including 800 RPM taxi showing 12 GPH... sometimes.
Other times it would read 4.3 GPH. Want another indication just flip on your
boost pump and you get a whole different reading. No way for me to balance injectors
w/o accurate fuel flow. I relocated FWF (I like Sean's install in archives)
and all issues went away. I still get the occasional 0.4 GPH fluctuations
but that is because I don't have the ideal length flow in/out of the cube.
I only have read one pirep on the damper and it was No Joy.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper
I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard location)
vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about experience
with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would solve the problems
the tunnel location has?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
I ditto Robins remarks. Why take the chance of having a problem and then have to
move it. PIREP from everyone
Having it FWF is positive. 400 hrs and
Great results for myself. Soft mount it up front and be a happy.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 1, 2013, at 3:16 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> The beauty of putting the cube in the tunnel is that you get to remove & relocate
it once you are flying. Talk about enjoyable! I did as the plans describe
and had 2-3 gph fluctuations including 800 RPM taxi showing 12 GPH... sometimes.
Other times it would read 4.3 GPH. Want another indication just flip on your
boost pump and you get a whole different reading. No way for me to balance
injectors w/o accurate fuel flow. I relocated FWF (I like Sean's install in archives)
and all issues went away. I still get the occasional 0.4 GPH fluctuations
but that is because I don't have the ideal length flow in/out of the cube.
> I only have read one pirep on the damper and it was No Joy.
> Robin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper
>
>
> I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard location)
vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about experience
with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would solve the problems
the tunnel location has?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield |
| From: | Jonathan Beasley <jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com> |
Thank you all and interesting read on the FiberFrax.
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Date: Thursday, May 30, 2013 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield
FiberFrax sandwiched between Stainless Steel.
Pics start here:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/D
S
C03158.html
read about it: : http://deemsrv10.com/upperfwdfuseinstallationlogindex.html
Secv 41 Faux...
On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 9:22 AM, Pascal wrote:
> I sprayed on a sound proofer. and heat shield. If I was doing it again. I
> would get a heat blanket for the firewall and keep the top of the line
> headsets, skip the sound proofing all together. Even with all the sound
> proofing I did I still have a plane that is so loud when cruising that I
> wonder what it would be like with out it, so I wear Lightspeed Zulu and i
t all
> goes away.
> As a reference when I knocked on the skin it had a noise that went away w
ith
> the sound proofer so it does something, just not much up in the air.
>
>
> From: Jonathan Beasley <mailto:jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 8:32 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield
>
> Any recommendations for sound proofing and firewall heat shield? Obviousl
y
> many choices are available=8A Soundex, 3M, Super Sound Proof, Heat Shield M
at,
> etc. What is working well in RV10 land? It would be interesting to see ho
w
> many people have selected to install sound proofing vs. going =B3au natural
e=B2.
>
> ----
> Jonathan Beasley
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/N
> avigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
Definitely put it between the servo and spider.
I talked directly with Flo-Scan about this and they said the worst place is between
the the two fuel pumps. They said the best would be before the valve. (We
can't do this obviously.)
I installed mine just in front of the servo (or after as flow goes,) with a somewhat
floating, flexible mount on the air box. I'm within a 1/2 gallon on every
fill.
Use flexible hose, do not make it rigid.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
On Jun 1, 2013, at 9:22 AM, g.combs wrote:
>
> I ditto Robins remarks. Why take the chance of having a problem and then have
to move it. PIREP from everyone
> Having it FWF is positive. 400 hrs and
> Great results for myself. Soft mount it up front and be a happy.
>
> Geoff
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 1, 2013, at 3:16 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>>
>> The beauty of putting the cube in the tunnel is that you get to remove & relocate
it once you are flying. Talk about enjoyable! I did as the plans describe
and had 2-3 gph fluctuations including 800 RPM taxi showing 12 GPH... sometimes.
Other times it would read 4.3 GPH. Want another indication just flip on your
boost pump and you get a whole different reading. No way for me to balance
injectors w/o accurate fuel flow. I relocated FWF (I like Sean's install in archives)
and all issues went away. I still get the occasional 0.4 GPH fluctuations
but that is because I don't have the ideal length flow in/out of the cube.
>> I only have read one pirep on the damper and it was No Joy.
>> Robin
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
>> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:04 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper
>>
>>
>> I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard location)
vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about experience
with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would solve the problems
the tunnel location has?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
I mounted my Dynon "red cube" in the tunnel. I knew some had issues with
this location but it was the easy option. I do see some minor flow
fluctuation when I turn on the boost pump. Overall operation however is
fine and rock steady. My fuel used total is always within half a gallon
when I fill up. At this point I have no reason to move it. If I had it to
do over however I'd would likely put the cube between the throttle body and
the spider like I did in the 8A.
I did insulate the tunnel at the firewall and the tunnel floor, and I put a
piece of insulation between the red cube and the tunnel mount. I don't have
any tunnel heat issues.
Carl
90 hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 10:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
damper
I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard
location) vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about
experience with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would
solve the problems the tunnel location has?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Can you fix a broken BNC connector on a COM antenna? |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Don't ask me I got there but I managed to shear off the guiding/locking pins of
my com antenna connector. See pictures. Does anyone know if it can be fixed without
buying a new antenna?
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401758#401758
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_204.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_699.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
The flip side is Dynon does tell one (pg7-41) "It is common to place the
sender downstream of any auxiliary electric boost pumps but upstream of the
engine driven fuel pump." as does Vans. I think they need to consult Floscan
on getting that perception updated!! I am usually less than .3 off at
fillups, could be user error as well since I say 60 gallons and there may be
59.X, but it is pretty consistent and minor.
My point is that it works just fine for me in the tunnel. It probably is
easier to install in the spider/ servo area as the tunnel setup was a bear
for me from the boost pump, but it works and I dont see a need to move it..
With all that said- If I was doing this again- I would seriously consider
putting it up front by the servo/spider.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Leikam
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2013 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
damper
Definitely put it between the servo and spider.
I talked directly with Flo-Scan about this and they said the worst place is
between the the two fuel pumps. They said the best would be before the
valve. (We can't do this obviously.)
I installed mine just in front of the servo (or after as flow goes,) with a
somewhat floating, flexible mount on the air box. I'm within a 1/2 gallon
on every fill.
Use flexible hose, do not make it rigid.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
On Jun 1, 2013, at 9:22 AM, g.combs wrote:
>
> I ditto Robins remarks. Why take the chance of having a problem and then
> have to move it. PIREP from everyone
> Having it FWF is positive. 400 hrs and
> Great results for myself. Soft mount it up front and be a happy.
>
> Geoff
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 1, 2013, at 3:16 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>>
>> The beauty of putting the cube in the tunnel is that you get to remove &
>> relocate it once you are flying. Talk about enjoyable! I did as the plans
>> describe and had 2-3 gph fluctuations including 800 RPM taxi showing 12
>> GPH... sometimes. Other times it would read 4.3 GPH. Want another
>> indication just flip on your boost pump and you get a whole different
>> reading. No way for me to balance injectors w/o accurate fuel flow. I
>> relocated FWF (I like Sean's install in archives) and all issues went
>> away. I still get the occasional 0.4 GPH fluctuations but that is because
>> I don't have the ideal length flow in/out of the cube.
>> I only have read one pirep on the damper and it was No Joy.
>> Robin
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
>> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:04 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
>> damper
>>
>>
>> I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard
>> location) vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about
>> experience with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would
>> solve the problems the tunnel location has?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can you fix a broken BNC connector on a COM antenna? |
I would try making a short pigtail adapter and soldering the downstream BNC
housing to the antenna. Just have to make sure the center conductors are
engaged. Or just solder your existing connector to the antenna and put an
additional connector in when you have to remove it.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Jun 1, 2013 at 9:42 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Don't ask me I got there but I managed to shear off the guiding/locking
> pins of my com antenna connector. See pictures. Does anyone know if it can
> be fixed without buying a new antenna?
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401758#401758
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_204.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_699.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can you fix a broken BNC connector on a COM antenna? |
On 6/1/2013 12:42 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Don't ask me I got there but I managed to shear off the guiding/locking pins
of my com antenna connector. See pictures. Does anyone know if it can be fixed
without buying a new antenna?
Can't be fixed. I've never seen that before, and I've seen a lot of BNC
connections!!! So, inquiring minds really do want to ask .... how.
The prudent thing to do would be to purchase another antenna.
I hate to even suggest this but you MAY be successful in cleaning the
antenna connections real good with MEK, gooping up the outside of the
antenna side with red silicone, and sliding on the cable. I have no
idea whether that will work because, as I said, I've never been there!!!
Linn
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401758#401758
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_204.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_699.jpg
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can you fix a broken BNC connector on a COM antenna? |
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
The pins keep the connector tight to provide a good ground connection, so without
those you'll have problems- may burn out your transmitter. Replace it.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 1, 2013, at 11:42 AM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
> Don't ask me I got there but I managed to shear off the guiding/locking pins
of my com antenna connector. See pictures. Does anyone know if it can be fixed
without buying a new antenna?
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401758#401758
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_204.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_699.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can you fix a broken BNC connector on a COM antenna? |
"Can't be fixed. " I have always taken the position that if man made
it, man (or woman) can fix it. It may take some careful surgery, sharp
knives, a Dremel tool, holding your tongue just right and one kind of
prayer or another. Always try to return the assembly to as near to
original as possible. The use of duct tape is not acceptable. It
doesn't even work on ducts. Adhesives are sometimes acceptable if the
original assembly used adhesive. Choosing the adhesive is the problem.
What was originally used. What material is being reassembled.
Yes, some things are not worth the time to fix them. Some things have
been assembled in such a way that even a sharp knife will not defeat the
assembly process.
It is always worth an attempt.
On 6/1/2013 1:26 PM, Linn wrote:
>
> On 6/1/2013 12:42 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>>
>> Don't ask me I got there but I managed to shear off the
>> guiding/locking pins of my com antenna connector. See pictures. Does
>> anyone know if it can be fixed without buying a new antenna?
> Can't be fixed. I've never seen that before, and I've seen a lot of
> BNC connections!!! So, inquiring minds really do want to ask .... how.
> The prudent thing to do would be to purchase another antenna.
> I hate to even suggest this but you MAY be successful in cleaning the
> antenna connections real good with MEK, gooping up the outside of the
> antenna side with red silicone, and sliding on the cable. I have no
> idea whether that will work because, as I said, I've never been there!!!
> Linn
>
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401758#401758
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_204.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_699.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
Since, on injected engines, there is a fuel return line that goes from the pump
back to the fuel selector valve, does the Floscan sender report higher flue flow
than is actually used by the engine? Or is there only a small amount of fuel
returned via that bypass route?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
---- Pascal wrote:
>
> The flip side is Dynon does tell one (pg7-41) "It is common to place the
> sender downstream of any auxiliary electric boost pumps but upstream of the
> engine driven fuel pump." as does Vans. I think they need to consult Floscan
> on getting that perception updated!! I am usually less than .3 off at
> fillups, could be user error as well since I say 60 gallons and there may be
> 59.X, but it is pretty consistent and minor.
> My point is that it works just fine for me in the tunnel. It probably is
> easier to install in the spider/ servo area as the tunnel setup was a bear
> for me from the boost pump, but it works and I dont see a need to move it..
> With all that said- If I was doing this again- I would seriously consider
> putting it up front by the servo/spider.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Leikam
> Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2013 9:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
> damper
>
>
> Definitely put it between the servo and spider.
> I talked directly with Flo-Scan about this and they said the worst place is
> between the the two fuel pumps. They said the best would be before the
> valve. (We can't do this obviously.)
> I installed mine just in front of the servo (or after as flow goes,) with a
> somewhat floating, flexible mount on the air box. I'm within a 1/2 gallon
> on every fill.
> Use flexible hose, do not make it rigid.
>
> Dave Leikam
> N89DA
>
> On Jun 1, 2013, at 9:22 AM, g.combs wrote:
>
> >
> > I ditto Robins remarks. Why take the chance of having a problem and then
> > have to move it. PIREP from everyone
> > Having it FWF is positive. 400 hrs and
> > Great results for myself. Soft mount it up front and be a happy.
> >
> > Geoff
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Jun 1, 2013, at 3:16 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> The beauty of putting the cube in the tunnel is that you get to remove &
> >> relocate it once you are flying. Talk about enjoyable! I did as the plans
> >> describe and had 2-3 gph fluctuations including 800 RPM taxi showing 12
> >> GPH... sometimes. Other times it would read 4.3 GPH. Want another
> >> indication just flip on your boost pump and you get a whole different
> >> reading. No way for me to balance injectors w/o accurate fuel flow. I
> >> relocated FWF (I like Sean's install in archives) and all issues went
> >> away. I still get the occasional 0.4 GPH fluctuations but that is because
> >> I don't have the ideal length flow in/out of the cube.
> >> I only have read one pirep on the damper and it was No Joy.
> >> Robin
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> >> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:04 PM
> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
> >> damper
> >>
> >>
> >> I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard
> >> location) vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about
> >> experience with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would
> >> solve the problems the tunnel location has?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> No virus found in this message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
It is an unusual installation for a Lycoming fuel injected engine to
have a fuel return line. Bendix FI does not. AF has a purge line which
may or may not return to the tank, but is only used for shutdown, there
is no return when engine is running. Only Continental injection or
systems modeled after it have an active return line, and there are
sensors to account for that fuel, but not something that most RV-10
operations need to be concerned with.
On 6/1/2013 9:56 PM, ibspud(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
>
> Since, on injected engines, there is a fuel return line that goes from the pump
back to the fuel selector valve, does the Floscan sender report higher flue
flow than is actually used by the engine? Or is there only a small amount of
fuel returned via that bypass route?
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
In the tunnel my cube absolutely reported more than consumed.
Robin
ibspud(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
Since, on injected engines, there is a fuel return line that goes from the pump
back to the fuel selector valve, does the Floscan sender report higher flue flow
than is actually used by the engine? Or is there only a small amount of fuel
returned via that bypass route?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
---- Pascal wrote:
>
> The flip side is Dynon does tell one (pg7-41) "It is common to place the
> sender downstream of any auxiliary electric boost pumps but upstream of the
> engine driven fuel pump." as does Vans. I think they need to consult Floscan
> on getting that perception updated!! I am usually less than .3 off at
> fillups, could be user error as well since I say 60 gallons and there may be
> 59.X, but it is pretty consistent and minor.
> My point is that it works just fine for me in the tunnel. It probably is
> easier to install in the spider/ servo area as the tunnel setup was a bear
> for me from the boost pump, but it works and I dont see a need to move it..
> With all that said- If I was doing this again- I would seriously consider
> putting it up front by the servo/spider.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Leikam
> Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2013 9:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
> damper
>
>
> Definitely put it between the servo and spider.
> I talked directly with Flo-Scan about this and they said the worst place is
> between the the two fuel pumps. They said the best would be before the
> valve. (We can't do this obviously.)
> I installed mine just in front of the servo (or after as flow goes,) with a
> somewhat floating, flexible mount on the air box. I'm within a 1/2 gallon
> on every fill.
> Use flexible hose, do not make it rigid.
>
> Dave Leikam
> N89DA
>
> On Jun 1, 2013, at 9:22 AM, g.combs wrote:
>
> >
> > I ditto Robins remarks. Why take the chance of having a problem and then
> > have to move it. PIREP from everyone
> > Having it FWF is positive. 400 hrs and
> > Great results for myself. Soft mount it up front and be a happy.
> >
> > Geoff
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Jun 1, 2013, at 3:16 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> The beauty of putting the cube in the tunnel is that you get to remove &
> >> relocate it once you are flying. Talk about enjoyable! I did as the plans
> >> describe and had 2-3 gph fluctuations including 800 RPM taxi showing 12
> >> GPH... sometimes. Other times it would read 4.3 GPH. Want another
> >> indication just flip on your boost pump and you get a whole different
> >> reading. No way for me to balance injectors w/o accurate fuel flow. I
> >> relocated FWF (I like Sean's install in archives) and all issues went
> >> away. I still get the occasional 0.4 GPH fluctuations but that is because
> >> I don't have the ideal length flow in/out of the cube.
> >> I only have read one pirep on the damper and it was No Joy.
> >> Robin
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> >> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:04 PM
> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation
> >> damper
> >>
> >>
> >> I'm trying to decide whether to place the floscan in the tunnel (standard
> >> location) vs engine compartment. Anyone have strong opinion? What about
> >> experience with the Matronics pulsation damper which seems like it would
> >> solve the problems the tunnel location has?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401718#401718
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> No virus found in this message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Just to add some additional clarification to what Kelly stated. With the AFP
purge valve in addition to cutting off the fuel feed for shutdown, it also functions
to flush warm fuel with cold to aid in hot starts.
I am also aware of one RV-10 with a Bendix that added a AFP purge valve.
I suspect when you flush the fuel it will cause the EFIS to report more fuel consumed
than actually used, but it really isn't a significant amount.
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 2, 2013, at 1:01 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> It is an unusual installation for a Lycoming fuel injected engine to have a fuel
return line. Bendix FI does not. AF has a purge line which may or may not
return to the tank, but is only used for shutdown, there is no return when engine
is running. Only Continental injection or systems modeled after it have an
active return line, and there are sensors to account for that fuel, but not something
that most RV-10 operations need to be concerned with.
> On 6/1/2013 9:56 PM, ibspud(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
>>
>> Since, on injected engines, there is a fuel return line that goes from the pump
back to the fuel selector valve, does the Floscan sender report higher flue
flow than is actually used by the engine? Or is there only a small amount of
fuel returned via that bypass route?
>> Albert Gardner
>> N991RV
>> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how can I find out the gear reduction for the governor |
driv
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks everyone for your input. I'll report the adjustments I had to do in order
to reach the low an high RPMs.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401798#401798
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation |
damper
I was referring to the return loop on the Airflow Performance pumps that goes from
the pump manifold back to a T fitting at the fuel selector valve input. My
calculated fuel consumption agrees closely with actual consumption so it appears
there is little recirculated fuel involved. Just wondering what the return
loop's function is?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
---- Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> It is an unusual installation for a Lycoming fuel injected engine to
> have a fuel return line. Bendix FI does not. AF has a purge line which
> may or may not return to the tank, but is only used for shutdown, there
> is no return when engine is running. Only Continental injection or
> systems modeled after it have an active return line, and there are
> sensors to account for that fuel, but not something that most RV-10
> operations need to be concerned with.
> On 6/1/2013 9:56 PM, ibspud(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
> >
> > Since, on injected engines, there is a fuel return line that goes from the
pump back to the fuel selector valve, does the Floscan sender report higher flue
flow than is actually used by the engine? Or is there only a small amount of
fuel returned via that bypass route?
> > Albert Gardner
> > N991RV
> > Yuma, AZ
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation dampe |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The return line helps set the fuel pressure. There is a check valve, and it relieves
excess pressure by sending some fuel back to the pump's inlet side. So some
fuel goes round and round, but not back to the tank. If your flowscan was
between the return T and the pump you would read high, but anywhere else should
be okay.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401838#401838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
Your transducer is after that loop regardless of whether it is in the
tunnel or on the engine. Has no effect on measurement going through the
transducer.
The loop simply allows the pump output to be held to a preset maximum,
with any excess going back to the pump inlet.
On 6/2/2013 10:01 AM, ibspud(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
> I was referring to the return loop on the Airflow Performance pumps that goes
from the pump manifold back to a T fitting at the fuel selector valve input.
My calculated fuel consumption agrees closely with actual consumption so it appears
there is little recirculated fuel involved. Just wondering what the return
loop's function is?
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> ---- Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> It is an unusual installation for a Lycoming fuel injected engine to
>> have a fuel return line. Bendix FI does not. AF has a purge line which
>> may or may not return to the tank, but is only used for shutdown, there
>> is no return when engine is running. Only Continental injection or
>> systems modeled after it have an active return line, and there are
>> sensors to account for that fuel, but not something that most RV-10
>> operations need to be concerned with.
>> On 6/1/2013 9:56 PM, ibspud(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
>>>
>>> Since, on injected engines, there is a fuel return line that goes from the
pump back to the fuel selector valve, does the Floscan sender report higher flue
flow than is actually used by the engine? Or is there only a small amount of
fuel returned via that bypass route?
>>> Albert Gardner
>>> N991RV
>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can you fix a broken BNC connector on a COM antenna? |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Simplest solution would be to purchase a BNC female to male adapter (or elbow connector),
solder it onto the present antenna connector using a 'sweat solder'
approach, very carefully not using too much heat to melt the inner insulation
of the broken connector.
If you've ever soldered copper water pipe, you know the concept.
The pins are just there to provide a positive mechanical connection, the shell
itself makes the negative electrical connection, center pin the positive.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401840#401840
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can you fix a broken BNC connector on a COM antenna? |
| From: | Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
Michael,
I'm running a special deal at the moment. Drop by and collect 1 spare bent whip
(I can't afford the 2nd radio anyway) and get one beer free. Trade them for
a cork to fit the hole already drilled in the fuselage.
Cheers,
Gordon
On Jun 1, 2013, at 10:47 PM, Lyle Peterson wrote:
>
> "Can't be fixed. " I have always taken the position that if man made it, man
(or woman) can fix it. It may take some careful surgery, sharp knives, a Dremel
tool, holding your tongue just right and one kind of prayer or another. Always
try to return the assembly to as near to original as possible. The use of
duct tape is not acceptable. It doesn't even work on ducts. Adhesives are
sometimes acceptable if the original assembly used adhesive. Choosing the adhesive
is the problem. What was originally used. What material is being reassembled.
>
> Yes, some things are not worth the time to fix them. Some things have been assembled
in such a way that even a sharp knife will not defeat the assembly process.
>
> It is always worth an attempt.
>
> On 6/1/2013 1:26 PM, Linn wrote:
>>
>> On 6/1/2013 12:42 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>>>
>>> Don't ask me I got there but I managed to shear off the guiding/locking pins
of my com antenna connector. See pictures. Does anyone know if it can be fixed
without buying a new antenna?
>> Can't be fixed. I've never seen that before, and I've seen a lot of BNC connections!!!
So, inquiring minds really do want to ask .... how.
>> The prudent thing to do would be to purchase another antenna.
>> I hate to even suggest this but you MAY be successful in cleaning the antenna
connections real good with MEK, gooping up the outside of the antenna side with
red silicone, and sliding on the cable. I have no idea whether that will work
because, as I said, I've never been there!!!
>> Linn
>>
>>>
>>> --------
>>> RV-10 builder (final assembly)
>>> #511
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401758#401758
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Attachments:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_204.jpg
>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_699.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield |
| From: | Jonathan Beasley <jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com> |
Deems, where did you source your sheet of stainless? I'm guessing it was a
3' x 4' sheet of=8A 301 1/4 hard temper?
Thank you!
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Date: Thursday, May 30, 2013 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield
FiberFrax sandwiched between Stainless Steel.
Pics start here:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/D
S
C03158.html
read about it: : http://deemsrv10.com/upperfwdfuseinstallationlogindex.html
Secv 41 Faux...
On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 9:22 AM, Pascal wrote:
> I sprayed on a sound proofer. and heat shield. If I was doing it again. I
> would get a heat blanket for the firewall and keep the top of the line
> headsets, skip the sound proofing all together. Even with all the sound
> proofing I did I still have a plane that is so loud when cruising that I
> wonder what it would be like with out it, so I wear Lightspeed Zulu and i
t all
> goes away.
> As a reference when I knocked on the skin it had a noise that went away w
ith
> the sound proofer so it does something, just not much up in the air.
>
>
> From: Jonathan Beasley <mailto:jbeasley(at)nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 8:32 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield
>
> Any recommendations for sound proofing and firewall heat shield? Obviousl
y
> many choices are available=8A Soundex, 3M, Super Sound Proof, Heat Shield M
at,
> etc. What is working well in RV10 land? It would be interesting to see ho
w
> many people have selected to install sound proofing vs. going =B3au natural
e=B2.
>
> ----
> Jonathan Beasley
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/N
> avigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Quick Build Fuselage Advice |
I am starting on my quick build fuselage trying to discover what has
been done and what is left to do. I have removed the floor panels,
except for the front panels, and found only two washers. I think I will
inspect under the front floor panels using an inspection camera. The
heat vent tee, VA-175, in mid fuselage points to the rear of the
fuselage, not up as shown in the plans. I suspect that needs changing.
There is an extra fuel valve mount, F-1048C1, taped to the installed
mount stating that the mount is installed inverted and needs to be
changed. I am installing an Andair valve and from reading Tim's pages I
suspect that I will need to fabricate and bracket so I will need to
simply remove the current one. Insulation seems something that needs
addressing fairly soon. Insulation for the firewall and the tunnel
seems to make sense. I am wondering what insulating the floor would
gain as the noise comes from in front of the firewall, not below the
fuselage. At the risk of starting an insulation war, what insulation
would you recommend? I know Tim mentioned Flightline Interiors.
There appears to be a lot of extras that need to be procured to finish
the plane and at this point in time the issues seem to be ones of timing
the procurement and installations so that something that has been done
does not need to be undone to install an item. Looking at the jig saw
puzzle and trying to see all the pieces and how they fit together.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Fuselage Advice |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Just be aware that since Tim built his plane Vans has changed the plumbing and
fuel valve location.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401919#401919
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO 540 C4B5 WANTED |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
I'm looking for a IO 540 that I can rebuild for my 10.
Please PM me with price and condition if anybody has one.
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401926#401926
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Fuselage Advice |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
I'm just a little ahead of you, and though I went slow build, it's mostly
the same from this point on.
You should be able to simply twist the heat vent tee. It's just friction
fitted to the fittings that are riveted to the tunnel sides.
As for figuring out what you need to get when, I've just been doing a lot
of reading of other's build logs. Some thing that you'll need to figure out
coming up soon are:
-- Where you're going to route conduit to the rear
-- Antenna choices if you're going to mount them on the belly
-- Whether or not you want access panels for your step bolts
-- Fuel Pump
-- Fuel Valve
-- Hard line or flexible line for fuel and brakes
Those are just a few of the things I'm working thru right now off the top
of my head. Some items may have a significant delay in shipment. I haven't
yet had building held up by shipping delays, but I'm sure it's only a
matter of time.
Still many more decisions to come!
On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 5:33 PM, Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
> dfritz(at)bpgsim.com>
>
> I am starting on my quick build fuselage trying to discover what has been
> done and what is left to do. I have removed the floor panels, except for
> the front panels, and found only two washers. I think I will inspect under
> the front floor panels using an inspection camera. The heat vent tee,
> VA-175, in mid fuselage points to the rear of the fuselage, not up as shown
> in the plans. I suspect that needs changing. There is an extra fuel valve
> mount, F-1048C1, taped to the installed mount stating that the mount is
> installed inverted and needs to be changed. I am installing an Andair
> valve and from reading Tim's pages I suspect that I will need to fabricate
> and bracket so I will need to simply remove the current one. Insulation
> seems something that needs addressing fairly soon. Insulation for the
> firewall and the tunnel seems to make sense. I am wondering what
> insulating the floor would gain as the noise comes from in front of the
> firewall, not below the fuselage. At the risk of starting an insulation
> war, what insulation would you recommend? I know Tim mentioned Flightline
> Interiors.
>
> There appears to be a lot of extras that need to be procured to finish the
> plane and at this point in time the issues seem to be ones of timing the
> procurement and installations so that something that has been done does not
> need to be undone to install an item. Looking at the jig saw puzzle and
> trying to see all the pieces and how they fit together.
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floscan location and Matronics fuel line pulsation damper |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
My red cube works fine in the tunnel. With the boost pump on, fuel line disconnected
at servo inlet, I was getting 42 gph flow. Plenty for an engine that needs
26-27 gph at takeoff. I made a 5052 tube to take the place of my red cube/two
hard lines if I ever need to move it. Same as others...accurate to .5 gallon.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401952#401952
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
1/8" fiberfrax on aft side of firewall. No other sound proofing, painted interior,
Lightspeed Zulu's. I'd do the same all over.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401954#401954
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Fuselage Advice |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I used fiberglass insulation under the forward floor panels. This can be added
via the lightening holes on the aft side of the floor so you don't have to remove
the panel. In the rear seat and baggage compartment I used closed cell foam.
Having said that I am not convinced that it is worth it. For heat insulation
you need to focus on the firewall and tunnel. Most of the noise in the
airplane comes from the air vents, followed by engine. I doubt the floor insulation
does much.
As stated in the earlier response this is the time to figure your electrical routing,
i.e., conduit and big cable runs. Under the floor is a good place for
this, in particular thru the baggage compartment. Don't forget electrical and
antenna runs to the wings which will pass via the center section fuselage. Consider
adding conduit from front to aft of the baggage bulkhead, conduit from
front to each wing opening, and front to the center section (for things like
flap motor, rear seat headphones, and antenna cable).
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401965#401965
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Fuselage Advice |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I affirm what Dave Moore said...."run lots of the conduit now." Excellent advice.
I also put in an inspection plate (2) for the boarding step WHEN it loosens
(which it will). It is also a good idea to put it in just for corrosion inspections.
There is an excellent and ultra light insulation that I found at OSH.
I also have the heavy - foil backed fiberglass on the cowl and firewall. I never
had the tunnel heat issue. My tunnel is NOT insulated. I found that the fuel
lines are a real pain, so I bought the Bonaco kit - excellent choice and saved
me a lot of swearing. I have nothing but kuddos for the Vans QB kit that was
delivered to me in 2007.
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402047#402047
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Fuselage Advice |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I seem to recall folks have had trouble with the AN 3 bolts Vans supplies
for steps wearing the hole and loosening. There are three possible
upgrades. Putting inspection plate on baggage floor as mentioned, reaming
the holes up to AN 4 size, and inserting dowel of wood, or milled aluminum
or steel inside the step pipe to prevent the pipe from being distorted by
tightening the bolt(with appropriate anti-corrosive treatment). I have done
the first two items.
On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 9:49 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I affirm what Dave Moore said...."run lots of the conduit now." Excellent
> advice. I also put in an inspection plate (2) for the boarding step WHEN it
> loosens (which it will). It is also a good idea to put it in just for
> corrosion inspections. There is an excellent and ultra light insulation
> that I found at OSH. I also have the heavy - foil backed fiberglass on the
> cowl and firewall. I never had the tunnel heat issue. My tunnel is NOT
> insulated. I found that the fuel lines are a real pain, so I bought the
> Bonaco kit - excellent choice and saved me a lot of swearing. I have
> nothing but kuddos for the Vans QB kit that was delivered to me in 2007.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '13
> Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402047#402047
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Fuselage Advice |
Some thoughts from a 2011 completion and 300 hours later.
On 6/3/2013 11:42 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
> As for figuring out what you need to get when, I've just been doing a
> lot of reading of other's build logs. Some thing that you'll need to
> figure out coming up soon are:
> -- Where you're going to route conduit to the rear
I went with the Vans wiring kit routing hardware to run fat power wires
and some other lines. It has a few brackets and and clamp locations. I
did not buy or use the Vans wiring kit or configuration, just used the
plans to mimic their routing and order a few select pieces (plus some
access hatches and avionic mounts for the tail). Then, I ran 2 empty
conduits (Van's material) for running all the avionics stuff that were
going to be finalized after the floor was closed. 3 empty conduits is
even better. This has all worked very well.
> -- Antenna choices if you're going to mount them on the belly
I had some churn around antenna choices. Ultimately I found that with
one comm antenna installed under the floor before the floor is closed
up, additional antennas could be added after completion (e.g.
transponder, another comm under the seat, ADS-B and ELT stuff is all in
the tailcone and remains accessible (see desirability of 3rd conduit))
> -- Whether or not you want access panels for your step bolts
> -- Fuel Pump
> -- Fuel Valve
> -- Hard line or flexible line for fuel and brakes
I did it exactly per Vans plus Andair mods. Still doing fine at
300hours on a rough field (think brake lines). You don't have to learn
to bend aluminum tubing if you get the flexible lines I guess. I
learned but have been unable to transfer the skills to much of anything
else.
>
> Still many more decisions to come!
The decisions are the real joy of the project. not withstanding that
Vans per the plans works too. "Less is more" applies as does "but Mama,
that's where the fun is"
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 5:33 PM, Dave Fritzsche (Building)
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I am starting on my quick build fuselage trying to discover what
> has been done and what is left to do. I have removed the floor
> panels, except for the front panels, and found only two washers.
> I think I will inspect under the front floor panels using an
> inspection camera. The heat vent tee, VA-175, in mid fuselage
> points to the rear of the fuselage, not up as shown in the plans.
> I suspect that needs changing. There is an extra fuel valve
> mount, F-1048C1, taped to the installed mount stating that the
> mount is installed inverted and needs to be changed. I am
> installing an Andair valve and from reading Tim's pages I suspect
> that I will need to fabricate and bracket so I will need to simply
> remove the current one. Insulation seems something that needs
> addressing fairly soon. Insulation for the firewall and the
> tunnel seems to make sense. I am wondering what insulating the
> floor would gain as the noise comes from in front of the firewall,
> not below the fuselage. At the risk of starting an insulation
> war, what insulation would you recommend? I know Tim mentioned
> Flightline Interiors.
>
I have a Flightline interior which probably deadens some sound. We like
it because it looks nice and works well. Otherwise we depend on Bose
(or your favorite ANL device). I put some low tech material on the back
of the firewall, don't know if it does anything. You don't need to
insulate in my opinion. A painted interior and good ANL headsets would
seem to do the trick. It's up to you where you want to spend your time.
>
>
> There appears to be a lot of extras that need to be procured to
> finish the plane and at this point in time the issues seem to be
> ones of timing the procurement and installations so that something
> that has been done does not need to be undone to install an item.
> Looking at the jig saw puzzle and trying to see all the pieces and
> how they fit together.
>
> Dave
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sound Proofing and Heat Shield |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm insulated to the hilt. Both sides of the firewall, tunnel, under the floors,
etc. I have no hot floors, tunnel, etc. I'm glad I did it.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402132#402132
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Fuselage Advice |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I seem to recall folks have had trouble with the AN 3 bolts Vans supplies for
steps wearing the hole and loosening. There are three possible upgrades. Putting
inspection plate on baggage floor as mentioned, reaming the holes up to AN
4 size, and inserting dowel of wood, or milled aluminum or steel inside the step
pipe to prevent the pipe from being distorted by tightening the bolt(with
appropriate anti-corrosive treatment). I have done the first two items.
>
I used an AN174 close tolerance bolt from Spruce. No wobble yet.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402133#402133
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Time to sell the RV-8A |
All,
Now that the RV-10 is pretty well tweaked in, and considering my son Steve
is at sea on the Nimitz and 10 years from a stable shore job, I decided to
sell the RV-8A. I would appreciate you all letting anyone know who may be
looking.
Here are some details:
Airplane: 2002 Van's RV-8A. I am the original owner and builder. 660
total hours. Always in a hangar. Day/night VFR/IFR.
Price: $80,000
Engine: Lycoming IO-360 (180hp), 660 hours since new
Prop: Hartzell constant speed blended airfoil, 320 hours since new
Dual pMag electronic ignitions
Dual batteries feeding independent power busses
GX-60 GPS comm/nav
SL-30 comm/nav
SL-70 XPDR
Dynon D10A EFIS
Garmin 396
PS Engineering audio panel
JPI fuel flow computer
Grand Rapids Engine Information System
Wing leveler autopilot
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42), Fredericksburg Virginia
Thanks,
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Solo, 40 gal, prop at coarse pitch, rpm 640 and airspeed 80 kias today, I was getting
about 10:1.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402344#402344
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
Usually best glide is much closer to Vy or even above Vy. I would expect
it to be somewhere between 90&100kts.
On 6/9/2013 2:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> Solo, 40 gal, prop at coarse pitch, rpm 640 and airspeed 80 kias today, I was
getting about 10:1.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 103
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402344#402344
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
Shut off the engine and the glide ratio will be lower. Stop the prop and it'll
be better.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 9, 2013, at 4:06 PM, "rv10flyer" wrote:
>
> Solo, 40 gal, prop at coarse pitch, rpm 640 and airspeed 80 kias today, I was
getting about 10:1.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 103
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402344#402344
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Are there two terms for best glide like there are for best climb? Bob
Turner expounded on this a few weeks ago but I'll admit I didn't pay close
enough attention. One would be to get you the furthest, another to keep you
aloft for the greatest duration...or are they the same thing?
I changed my emergency checklist a few years ago from 80 (KIAS) to 95 for
best glide because it seemed that 95 got me further. But earlier I was
pretty sure that 80 gave me the minimum sink rate. Bob??
On Sunday, June 9, 2013, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Usually best glide is much closer to Vy or even above Vy. I would expect
> it to be somewhere between 90&100kts.
>
> On 6/9/2013 2:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
>>
>> Solo, 40 gal, prop at coarse pitch, rpm 640 and airspeed 80 kias today, I
>> was getting about 10:1.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne G.
>> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
>> TT= 103
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/**viewtopic.php?p=402344#402344>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I also keep my TT AP "Min Airspd" set at 80 kts. If one has a lot of altitude it
might help out and keeps us from stalling in an AP climb. With an actual engine
out, we would gain a little more by opening the throttle. If I was at gross
weight, I would shoot for 90 kts.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402358#402358
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Minimum sink speed (maximum time before you hit the ground) is not the same as
best glide (cover maximum horizontal distance before you hit the ground).
Minimum sink speed is at the "minimum power required" speed, and in most single
engine GA airplanes is close to Vx and often just a few knots faster than stall
speed Vs1.
Best glide speed in an ideal airplane is greater than Vy, but in every real certified
GA single that I've been in the reverse is true. This is because virtually
all aircraft have cruise props, and the increasing prop efficiency as speed
increases in the Vy speed range pushes real world Vy to higher values.
Best glide (no wind) occurs at max L/D angle of attack. Therefore, it varies with
weight (variation is as the square root of the weight, so, approximately, if
you are under gross by 20%, then best glide is reduced (from gross weight number)
by 10%.). At Wayne's weight I'd say 80 kias is about right.
In the real world, where you want to cover distance over the ground in a glide,
the wind can come into play. With a tailwind, you want to go slower than published
best glide speed, but never slower than minimum sink. With a headwind, increase
speed, roughly by 40% of the wind speed if known.
As a side note, in many training situations where the cfi pulls the throttle and
says "make the runway", the decrease in best speed because you are below gross
weight and the increase in best glide because of the headwind tend to cancel
out.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402366#402366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
So am I right in thinking that if you had an AOA indicator, and were able
to glide at L/Dmax, then you could reduce speed on final to increase sink
and not overshoot the landing spot?
For that matter you could also *increase* speed to increase sink, but then
you'd touch down going faster.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 9:07 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Minimum sink speed (maximum time before you hit the ground) is not the
> same as best glide (cover maximum horizontal distance before you hit the
> ground).
> Minimum sink speed is at the "minimum power required" speed, and in most
> single engine GA airplanes is close to Vx and often just a few knots faster
> than stall speed Vs1.
> Best glide speed in an ideal airplane is greater than Vy, but in every
> real certified GA single that I've been in the reverse is true. This is
> because virtually all aircraft have cruise props, and the increasing prop
> efficiency as speed increases in the Vy speed range pushes real world Vy to
> higher values.
>
> Best glide (no wind) occurs at max L/D angle of attack. Therefore, it
> varies with weight (variation is as the square root of the weight, so,
> approximately, if you are under gross by 20%, then best glide is reduced
> (from gross weight number) by 10%.). At Wayne's weight I'd say 80 kias is
> about right.
>
> In the real world, where you want to cover distance over the ground in a
> glide, the wind can come into play. With a tailwind, you want to go slower
> than published best glide speed, but never slower than minimum sink. With a
> headwind, increase speed, roughly by 40% of the wind speed if known.
>
> As a side note, in many training situations where the cfi pulls the
> throttle and says "make the runway", the decrease in best speed because you
> are below gross weight and the increase in best glide because of the
> headwind tend to cancel out.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402366#402366
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Dave,
Yes that is correct. Typical approach speeds are at or less than best glide, so
if the pilot pulls back on the stick with no power change, then once the transients
die out, he'll be slower and have a steeper approach than before.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402372#402372
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I don't have a real AOA and have never flown with one so I just practice a lot
at solo and gross. The family understands the importance. I do not practice with
full baggage, low fuel and at my aft limit with the family on board. I already
did that with dogfood in phase 1. So far, no tendencies to enter a spin. I
unload and raise the wing with rudder then gently add power back in. There is
plenty of tail buffet warning without flaps. The GRT has a "derived" AOA that
I calibrated, but I feel looking out the window with the feel in the seat and
sound do more for me. I went out yesterday and did some power off stalls with/without
flaps and level/30 deg banks. Also some no flap landings. After a while
you can feel when you are at the "right" speed with or without flaps. Pulling
that prop back to 640 rpm really makes a big difference in glide. I get a little
engine shake at that low rpm, something I did not notice on David Maib's
3-blade during transition training. It does seem to have a slightly better glide,
possibly due to less drag on the 2-blade and solo.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402392#402392
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Glide Ratio |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Certainly drag is important, and others have mentioned ways to reduce it (low rpm
on the prop, full throttle, stop the prop). Depending on what happened to the
engine you may or may not be able to control these things.
Curiously, while weight affects the optimum glide speed it does not affect the
glide distance, no wind. In a headwind you can glide further if you're heavy,
vice versa in a tailwind.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402404#402404
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Max RPM adjustment |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I have the standard MT governor on my RV-10 (IO-540-D4A5). I had the max
RPM set to 2700 RPM initially, but over time it has been declining slowly,
to the point that it's about 2640 on climbout now, at 2+ years and 200+
hours. Is that to be expected (i.e. I should just adjust the stop screw) or
is this indicative of a problem requiring further investigation? The
governor appears normal and in all other respects operates normally.
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection Camera |
I do not plan on removing the front floor panels from my QB fuselage,
but I do want to look under them. Thus I am in the market for an
inspection camera which I assume will come in handy in the future. I
have looked at the one Costco sells and wonder if anyone has used it?
Camera recommendations from users would be appreciated.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Max RPM adjustment |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
My MT was set at 2700 and still runs between 2690-2710 depending on temperatures.
I would ensure you are hitting the high rpm stop when prop knob is fully forward
and ensure the adjustment screw has not moved. I doubt it is normal wear
and tear. Call MT. They may just tell you to readjust. Let us know what you find
out.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402453#402453
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Camera |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I don't have one but if I buy one, it will have to fit through my spark plug hole.
They would be great for valve/piston/cylinder wall/muffler/corrosion inspections.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402455#402455
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Camera |
A friend of mine just bought this one from Oasis Scientific on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Inspection-Borescope-Endoscope-Attachment/d
p/B006SNRUL0/ref=sr_1_1?m=ARYO9J9UQ3I8W&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1370925
872&sr=1-1
So far, for $80 it looks ok.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10flyer
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 9:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Inspection Camera
I don't have one but if I buy one, it will have to fit through my spark plug
hole. They would be great for valve/piston/cylinder wall/muffler/corrosion
inspections.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402455#402455
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Max RPM adjustment |
I'd back the screw out a bit and see if you get the RPM back. Make sure
you have full travel to the screw. If you get to the screw but don't get
the RPM back then I'd think your pitch stop inside the hub has changed but
that seems very unlikely. Try the simple adjustment first and like Wayne
said if you feel calling MT is helpful then by all means do that too.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 8:13 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> I have the standard MT governor on my RV-10 (IO-540-D4A5). I had the max
> RPM set to 2700 RPM initially, but over time it has been declining slowly,
> to the point that it's about 2640 on climbout now, at 2+ years and 200+
> hours. Is that to be expected (i.e. I should just adjust the stop screw) or
> is this indicative of a problem requiring further investigation? The
> governor appears normal and in all other respects operates normally.
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Max RPM adjustment |
Only make very small adjustment at a time. You do NOT want a prop
overspeed. You want to achieve about 2650-2670 static rpm on the ground,
which will get you darn close to 2700 on takeoff roll.
On 6/10/2013 10:19 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> I'd back the screw out a bit and see if you get the RPM back. Make
> sure you have full travel to the screw. If you get to the screw but
> don't get the RPM back then I'd think your pitch stop inside the hub
> has changed but that seems very unlikely. Try the simple adjustment
> first and like Wayne said if you feel calling MT is helpful then by
> all means do that too.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 8:13 PM, Rob Kochman > wrote:
>
> I have the standard MT governor on my RV-10 (IO-540-D4A5). I had
> the max RPM set to 2700 RPM initially, but over time it has been
> declining slowly, to the point that it's about 2640 on climbout
> now, at 2+ years and 200+ hours. Is that to be expected (i.e. I
> should just adjust the stop screw) or is this indicative of a
> problem requiring further investigation? The governor appears
> normal and in all other respects operates normally. Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Camera |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I got a color model from Harbor Freight that was on sale plus I had one of their
20% off coupons. Very handy in several ways. HF has stepped up their quality
on several types of items of late, (although they still sell junk as well.)
I'm very impressed with this unit for what it ended up costing. (About $65 as I
recall)
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402460#402460
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Camera |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I got a color model from Harbor Freight that was on sale plus I had one of their
20% off coupons. Very handy in several ways. HF has stepped up their quality
on several types of items of late, (although they still sell junk as well.)
I'm very impressed with this unit for what it ended up costing. (About $65 as I
recall)
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402461#402461
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Nose Wheel |
| From: | Russell Daves <dav1111(at)clear.net> |
> Back when I was building my RV-10 side by side with a buddy who was also
> building an RV-10 I ordered in 2 Matco Wheels as per Tim Olson's Must
Fixes:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/Top_10_MustFixes.html Fix #3 on the
> list.
>
> My buddy died of a heart attack before I had the chance to give him one of
> the Matco Nose Wheels. I was doing the quick build and he was doing the
> slow build so he had not yet ordered his finish kit. My buddy's widow
sold
> his unfinished RV-10 kit and I had not noticed that I still had the extra
> Matco Wheel still in the shipping box until recently when I was doing some
> cleaning out of my build hanger.
>
> I completely agree with Tim Olson that you should delete the Van's wheel
> from your order of the finish kit and get the correct Matco wheel instead.
> You can see a more complete write up by Tim Olson here:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110326/index.html
>
> The Matco wheel sells for $130.00, if you want my extra Matco WHLNW511.25
> wheel send me a check for $100.00 and I will ship it to you.
>
> Russ Daves
> 1111 Main Street
> Lubbock, TX 79401
>
> N710RV - Flying RV-10
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Nose Wheel |
I'll take you up on this if I'm the first to respond.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2013 4:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Nose Wheel
> Back when I was building my RV-10 side by side with a buddy who was also
> building an RV-10 I ordered in 2 Matco Wheels as per Tim Olson's Must
Fixes:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/Top_10_MustFixes.html Fix #3 on the
> list.
>
> My buddy died of a heart attack before I had the chance to give him one of
> the Matco Nose Wheels. I was doing the quick build and he was doing the
> slow build so he had not yet ordered his finish kit. My buddy's widow
sold
> his unfinished RV-10 kit and I had not noticed that I still had the extra
> Matco Wheel still in the shipping box until recently when I was doing some
> cleaning out of my build hanger.
>
> I completely agree with Tim Olson that you should delete the Van's wheel
> from your order of the finish kit and get the correct Matco wheel instead.
> You can see a more complete write up by Tim Olson here:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110326/index.html
>
> The Matco wheel sells for $130.00, if you want my extra Matco WHLNW511.25
> wheel send me a check for $100.00 and I will ship it to you.
>
> Russ Daves
> 1111 Main Street
> Lubbock, TX 79401
>
> N710RV - Flying RV-10
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Max RPM adjustment |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I think that applies to a fixed pitch prop or CS on the ground. Notice he said
on climbout. As soon as you are rolling down the runway our prop pitch starts
increasing. If he was developing 5% less power, his pitch would just start increasing
later down the runway but should have still reached 2700. If he was developing
less power than that then he should notice MP, FF, EGT and performance
changes too. I usually get about 26.5 gph FF and 1250-1275 EGT's and on takeoff.
I keep pictures on my I pad/I phone of climb and cruise numbers from my 1st flights
and occassionally after to reference back to. This will help me to troubleshoot
if things slowly change. I also wrote all numbers down during most phase
1 flights.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402494#402494
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Camera |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I bought one a few years ago from Snap-On. It works great, but does go through
the batteries. One caution in the instructions that probably applies to all of
them - don't get petroleum products on the mineral lens. Since going through
a spark plug hole almost guarantees that, I always have a clean dry rag to clean
the lens handy.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402498#402498
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Camera |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I have one of the HF cameras, and it will be OK for looking under your floor plans
to find tools and hardware, but it doesn't have the resolution to see much
detail. As others have mentioned, it wont fit through a plug hole, so don't plan
on using it as a boroscope. I tried the Costco camera, and found it very similar
to the HF. Also tried 3 of the cheapy Chinese dental cameras; focal length
and optics were terrible on all 3.
While watching one of the Mike Busch webinars, I noticed a picture of the high
end dental camera he uses for boroscoping engines. Originally about $7,000, I
found one on eBay for $280. They currently list several in the $200-250 range.
It is outstanding; great optics, high resolution, excellent color, and it fits
easily through a spark plug hole. Comes with a 7 ft. cable, so you could even
do colonoscopies in your spare time. I hook it to a 7" led battery powered TV
I found on Amazon for $70. The combo gives me amazing picture quality. If I
want a permanent record for condition inspections, or to send a copy to someone,
I connect it to my laptop.
Search for Acucam UltraCam II. More money than the HF/Costco cameras, but much
more useful.
Jim Berry
Rv-10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402523#402523
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Camera |
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com> |
Jim
I got a good laugh from your post.
Armed with this info I am now ready to change careers
Niko
Nikolaos Napoli
On Jun 11, 2013, at 4:54 PM, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> I have one of the HF cameras, and it will be OK for looking under your floor
plans to find tools and hardware, but it doesn't have the resolution to see much
detail. As others have mentioned, it wont fit through a plug hole, so don't
plan on using it as a boroscope. I tried the Costco camera, and found it very
similar to the HF. Also tried 3 of the cheapy Chinese dental cameras; focal length
and optics were terrible on all 3.
>
> While watching one of the Mike Busch webinars, I noticed a picture of the high
end dental camera he uses for boroscoping engines. Originally about $7,000,
I found one on eBay for $280. They currently list several in the $200-250 range.
It is outstanding; great optics, high resolution, excellent color, and it fits
easily through a spark plug hole. Comes with a 7 ft. cable, so you could even
do colonoscopies in your spare time. I hook it to a 7" led battery powered
TV I found on Amazon for $70. The combo gives me amazing picture quality. If
I want a permanent record for condition inspections, or to send a copy to someone,
I connect it to my laptop.
>
> Search for Acucam UltraCam II. More money than the HF/Costco cameras, but much
more useful.
>
> Jim Berry
> Rv-10
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402523#402523
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prep of Vans wash primer |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
What prep or cleaning solvent could/should be used on the Vans primed QB parts
before spraying the final coat? Does it need to be scuffed before painting?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402532#402532
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prep of Vans wash primer |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
You need to talk with your painter or paint manufacturer. It is likely that they
want you to apply their recommended primer before their final coat. They will
also tell you what to do as far as surface prep prior to applying their primer.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402534#402534
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Is Lessdrag with Jim Ayers still around? Where else can a good deal be found on
a MT 3 blade propeller for a RV10?
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402535#402535
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
I just bought a spinner from him. So I know he is still in business. He see
ms to have a good line into MT in Germany. I bought my three blade from hi
m two years ago and when I went to a bigger spinner I also just purchased i
t from him. Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: MT Propeller
> From: mike(at)profishenterprises.com
> Date: Tue=2C 11 Jun 2013 19:12:07 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Is Lessdrag with Jim Ayers still around? Where else can a good deal be fo
und on a MT 3 blade propeller for a RV10?
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40447
> Fuselage almost done.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402535#402535
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Yes, just ordered prop and governor from him a few weeks ago.
jim(at)lesdrag.com
Very competitive pricing.
On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 7:12 PM, mds4878 wrote:
>
> Is Lessdrag with Jim Ayers still around? Where else can a good deal be
> found on a MT 3 blade propeller for a RV10?
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40447
> Fuselage almost done.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402535#402535
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Mike, I found this number for Jim. 805-795-5377
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402545#402545
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller |
| From: | Craig Rufi <craigr60(at)gmail.com> |
I have a number for Jim,but it is at the airport. I will send it to you
today. I think he is still at Oxnard airport,but have not seen him in over
a year.Craig
On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 7:12 PM, mds4878 wrote:
>
> Is Lessdrag with Jim Ayers still around? Where else can a good deal be
> found on a MT 3 blade propeller for a RV10?
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40447
> Fuselage almost done.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402535#402535
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hartzell Governor |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have the Hartzell governor. You have to replace the arm if you are using the
throttle quadrant. If you do not, you will get about half the travel on the
quadrant, and half the leverage. Yes, it will work with the stock arm, but it
looks unprofessional when used in conjunction with the quadrant.
I have not had any issues after 150 hours.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402560#402560
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have the Hartzell governor. You have to replace the arm if you are using the
throttle quadrant. If you do not, you will get about half the travel on the
quadrant, and half the leverage. Yes, it will work with the stock arm, but it
looks unprofessional when used in conjunction with the quadrant.
I have not had any issues after 150 hours.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402561#402561
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Being forced to change my website hosting. Shopping for a hosting
provider....just a heads up that the site may be suddenly gone
until I find one.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Camera |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Jim
I saw your post on the RV-10 list concerning these cameras. Can you provide a
little information on how they work? For instance, how big is the camera probe?
Can the picture be rotated while viewing, to avoid seeing things upside down
or sideways? Can the camera angle be changed in order to look at a valve face
that might be at an angle to the spark plug hole?
Perhaps a link to the manufacturer's website to view the user manual?
Any info would be appreciated.
Bill Reining, Oakland CA
RV-10 40514
Bill, I thought your questions might be of interest to others, so I am posting
my response here.
The probe will easily fit through a Lyc. plug hole. I can measure the exact diameter
next time I am at the hangar.
The picture can be rotated. The camera angle is not adjustable, but the field of
view is wide enough that you can see everything within the cylinders i.e. piston
head, cylinder walls, head, both valves and seats, plug holes. No blind spots.
I did not receive, and could not find a users manual. I believe these cameras were
made through the 90's. the company has been sold and changed directions.
Jim Berry
RV-10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402564#402564
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Bill
Where did you source the new governor arm from please, as I'm installing the quadrant?
Do you have a part number?
Warm regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
#40299
On 13/06/2013, at 2:51, "bill.peyton" wrote:
>
> I have the Hartzell governor. You have to replace the arm if you are using the
throttle quadrant. If you do not, you will get about half the travel on the
quadrant, and half the leverage. Yes, it will work with the stock arm, but
it looks unprofessional when used in conjunction with the quadrant.
> I have not had any issues after 150 hours.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402560#402560
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Governor |
This bracket went on my prop governor when we put to Showplanes Cowl & Van'
s Baffles on the -10. Looks good in place. Not sure if it's right for other
setups.
http://www.showplanes.com/ecom-prodshow/Propeller-Governor-Control-Bracket.
html
[Propeller Governor Control Bracket]
[Propeller Governor Control Bracket]
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Governor
--> >
Bill
Where did you source the new governor arm from please, as I'm installing th
e quadrant?
Do you have a part number?
Warm regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
#40299
On 13/06/2013, at 2:51, "bill.peyton" > wrote:
> --> >
>
> I have the Hartzell governor. You have to replace the arm if you are usi
ng the throttle quadrant. If you do not, you will get about half the trave
l on the quadrant, and half the leverage. Yes, it will work with the stock
arm, but it looks unprofessional when used in conjunction with the quadran
t.
> I have not had any issues after 150 hours.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402560#402560
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | debra EVERETT <leeverett(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop |
Bill
Where did you get the Hartzell governor replacement arm? I am using the sta
ndard one from Hartzell with the throttle quadrand and it works well but yo
u are right. It only has half the travel on the quadrant. Leon
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop
> From: peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net
> Date: Wed=2C 12 Jun 2013 10:23:08 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I have the Hartzell governor. You have to replace the arm if you are usin
g the throttle quadrant. If you do not=2C you will get about half the trave
l on the quadrant=2C and half the leverage. Yes=2C it will work with the st
ock arm=2C but it looks unprofessional when used in conjunction with the qu
adrant.
> I have not had any issues after 150 hours.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners=2C LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402561#402561
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Direct from Hartzell. I can get the part number when I get home late tonight,
but I know it's on Bill's mykitlog site, it's also on mark cooper's (charliewaffle),
and I think I may have posted in on mykitlog site. Several places to
find it in the mean time.
It's a perfect fit if you already drilled the hole in the front baffle per the
plans
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 12, 2013, at 4:56 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
Bill
Where did you source the new governor arm from please, as I'm installing the quadrant?
Do you have a part number?
Warm regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
#40299
On 13/06/2013, at 2:51, "bill.peyton" wrote:
>
> I have the Hartzell governor. You have to replace the arm if you are using the
throttle quadrant. If you do not, you will get about half the travel on the
quadrant, and half the leverage. Yes, it will work with the stock arm, but
it looks unprofessional when used in conjunction with the quadrant.
> I have not had any issues after 150 hours.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402560#402560
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> |
Thank you for your help I have the propeller spinner and governor ordered.
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402579#402579
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I called Hartzell, and $27 later I had the part.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402582#402582
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_214.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop |
Hartzell part number 103568
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 9:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Governor with C2YR Prop
I called Hartzell, and $27 later I had the part.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402582#402582
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_214.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Pfeiffer <dapb37(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Slickstart and electronic tachs |
Anybody who installed a slickstart and also has a electronic tach (which probably
is everybody.)The installation instructions for the SLICKSTART wants it wired
thru the left mag and comments that any electronics tachs should therefore
be wired thru the RIGHT mag. The problem is that my ELECTRONICS INT"l tach instructions
has me wiring to both P leads both left and right. Anyone experience
this? Don Pfeiffer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 project for sale |
My RV10 project is for sale.
Complete from firewall aft, this airplane is ready for the new
builder/repairman to add the engine and paint of his choice, and fly to
OSH this summer. $98,000.
For a complete description, and pictures, email cjhukill(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
| Subject: | Slickstart and electronic tachs |
Don,
I tried the "P lead" hookup without much success.
I ended up going with a "Signal Generator" from Aircraft Spruce.
Screws on your existing tach drive and a simple 2 wire hookup.
Solves a lot of headaches..
Readout is plus or minus 3 rpm...
About $70.00
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/adirh60-sg.php0.00
Jim Villani
N10KQ
100 plus hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Pfeiffer
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 4:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Slickstart and electronic tachs
Anybody who installed a slickstart and also has a electronic tach (which
probably is everybody.)The installation instructions for the SLICKSTART
wants it wired thru the left mag and comments that any electronics tachs
should therefore be wired thru the RIGHT mag. The problem is that my
ELECTRONICS INT"l tach instructions has me wiring to both P leads both left
and right. Anyone experience this? Don Pfeiffer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Governor |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Thanks Bill.
Warm regards
Patrick
On 13/06/2013, at 8:15, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Direct from Hartzell. I can get the part number when I get home late tonight,
but I know it's on Bill's mykitlog site, it's also on mark cooper's (charliewaffle),
and I think I may have posted in on mykitlog site. Several places to
find it in the mean time.
>
> It's a perfect fit if you already drilled the hole in the front baffle per the
plans
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 12, 2013, at 4:56 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
>
> Bill
>
> Where did you source the new governor arm from please, as I'm installing the
quadrant?
>
> Do you have a part number?
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick Pulis
> Adelaide, South Australia
> #40299
>
>
> On 13/06/2013, at 2:51, "bill.peyton" wrote:
>
>>
>> I have the Hartzell governor. You have to replace the arm if you are using
the throttle quadrant. If you do not, you will get about half the travel on the
quadrant, and half the leverage. Yes, it will work with the stock arm, but
it looks unprofessional when used in conjunction with the quadrant.
>> I have not had any issues after 150 hours.
>>
>> --------
>> Bill
>> WA0SYV
>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402560#402560
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slickstart and electronic tachs |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I have GRT EFIS and slick start. I installed resistors in both circuits then into
a spdt switch then to GRT EIS. Works great on either mag position.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402662#402662
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slickstart and electronic tachs |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I have exactly the same as Wayne except I skipped the switch and wired them both
into the GRT EIS. The EIS automatically shows whatever is wired to #1 unless
it's zero (as during mag check) in which case it goes to #2 (and shows "#1 RPM
failed" message or something like that.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402663#402663
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO 540 C4B5 WANTED |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Call LyCon Engines in Visalia, CA. They seem to have a lot of engines in all stages
of repair and disrepair.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402666#402666
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Routing electrical conduit |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Who has figured out how to route the conduit supplied in Van's electrical kit from
front to the rear of baggage area? Other than the too small holes provided
on the left and occupied by the P27 battery cable plus similar on the right,
it appears to me that cutting holes in some fairly beefy looking structural members
may be the only way. Am I missing something? OK to cut?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402667#402667
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Routing electrical conduit |
I didn't use the Van's electrical kit but here is how I ran the three
conduits on each side. Note - where these lines pass through the rear seat
pan or ribs I used an adhesive to make sure there was no relative motion
between the corrugated conduit and the aluminum. On the side lightning
holes I added large rubber grommets in the lighting holes.
I figured I needed two runs on each side, but added a third just in case. I
ended up using it. I have the two ADHRS modules mounted aft of the baggage
compartment as most do, so they have two 1/4" lines from the wing going aft
(pitot and AOA) and two going from aft up to the panel (pitot and static) as
I have a couple of analog gauges in the panel. All wire and tubing runs are
in the conduit including the #2 welding cable from both masters to the
starter solenoid.
Carl
RV-8A (sold last week)
RV-10, 95 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 1:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
Who has figured out how to route the conduit supplied in Van's electrical
kit from front to the rear of baggage area? Other than the too small holes
provided on the left and occupied by the P27 battery cable plus similar on
the right, it appears to me that cutting holes in some fairly beefy looking
structural members may be the only way. Am I missing something? OK to cut?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402667#402667
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing electrical conduit |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Avoid cutting structure. See Carl's response for one way to do it.
On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 10:48 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Who has figured out how to route the conduit supplied in Van's electrical
> kit from front to the rear of baggage area? Other than the too small holes
> provided on the left and occupied by the P27 battery cable plus similar on
> the right, it appears to me that cutting holes in some fairly beefy looking
> structural members may be the only way. Am I missing something? OK to cut?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402667#402667
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Is there an RTV silicone available from regular hardware store that is safe on
aluminum?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402687#402687
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing electrical conduit |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I contacted Vans when I was doing this step, and they said it was OK to enlarge
the holes in the bulkhead sides to 1".
Jim Berry
RV-10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402694#402694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How many turns to adjust low RPM on Silver Hawk EX injector |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
my idle RPM is too high 900 RPM, I need to adjust the throttle lever on the Silver
Hawk EX and wonder if someone knows how many turns on the adjustment nut equal
100 RPM.
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402696#402696
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Shop Humor |
| From: | "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca> |
Moral of the story, move to Nova Scotia. You will always need to wear at least
a T-shirt here.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402699#402699
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing electrical conduit |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
The real problem is that the convoluted tubing is very difficult to fish through
when it has bends and turns. That's why you need so much conduit.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402728#402728
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Routing electrical conduit |
Carl
Indeed 1 image is better than a thousand words!... Thanks
However in your 2nd picture one cannot see how the 3 conduits pass through
the F-1004 C & D Center section bulkheads (the plans show only two 5/8"
holes), or did you stop the conduits there and only continued the electric
wires forward of those bulkheads?
Do you have a picture that shows forward of those bulkheads?
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: sexta-feira, 14 de Junho de 2013 12:09
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
I didn't use the Van's electrical kit but here is how I ran the three
conduits on each side. Note - where these lines pass through the rear seat
pan or ribs I used an adhesive to make sure there was no relative motion
between the corrugated conduit and the aluminum. On the side lightning
holes I added large rubber grommets in the lighting holes.
I figured I needed two runs on each side, but added a third just in case. I
ended up using it. I have the two ADHRS modules mounted aft of the baggage
compartment as most do, so they have two 1/4" lines from the wing going aft
(pitot and AOA) and two going from aft up to the panel (pitot and static) as
I have a couple of analog gauges in the panel. All wire and tubing runs are
in the conduit including the #2 welding cable from both masters to the
starter solenoid.
Carl
RV-8A (sold last week)
RV-10, 95 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing electrical conduit |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt wrote:
> Carl
>
> However in your 2nd picture one cannot see how the 3 conduits pass through
> the F-1004 C & D Center section bulkheads (the plans show only two 5/8"
> holes), or did you stop the conduits there and only continued the electric
> wires forward of those bulkheads?
> --
I believe there were lightening holes - hence my comment about bends and turns.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402798#402798
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Routing electrical conduit |
The attached photos are the only ones I can find that have more detail. The
conduit ends after it goes forward through the side rib lighting holes (the
ones where I installed the large grommets). Forward of that the runs just
use snap bushings like Van's has in his plans. I think I had to add one
additional hole on one side.
Note - there is no way to get all the wires and such past the panel bulkhead
just using the left side (with the supplied cover plate) per the planes. I
ran a 1" or so wire bundle up the inside of the last right side rib then
past the panel bulkhead in the side channel. I slightly enlarged the panel
notch that straddles the side channel for added clearance. I used some
plastic mesh conduit for this run. Most of it is hidden behind the little
side cover plate (photos #8 & #9).
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
Carl
Indeed 1 image is better than a thousand words!... Thanks
However in your 2nd picture one cannot see how the 3 conduits pass through
the F-1004 C & D Center section bulkheads (the plans show only two 5/8"
holes), or did you stop the conduits there and only continued the electric
wires forward of those bulkheads?
Do you have a picture that shows forward of those bulkheads?
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: sexta-feira, 14 de Junho de 2013 12:09
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
I didn't use the Van's electrical kit but here is how I ran the three
conduits on each side. Note - where these lines pass through the rear seat
pan or ribs I used an adhesive to make sure there was no relative motion
between the corrugated conduit and the aluminum. On the side lightning
holes I added large rubber grommets in the lighting holes.
I figured I needed two runs on each side, but added a third just in case. I
ended up using it. I have the two ADHRS modules mounted aft of the baggage
compartment as most do, so they have two 1/4" lines from the wing going aft
(pitot and AOA) and two going from aft up to the panel (pitot and static) as
I have a couple of analog gauges in the panel. All wire and tubing runs are
in the conduit including the #2 welding cable from both masters to the
starter solenoid.
Carl
RV-8A (sold last week)
RV-10, 95 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Routing electrical conduit |
I ran my conduit straight forward like picture #8 on both sides (step
drill works nice here) and made a side panel cover out of some thin
aluminum I had laying around. Some PEM nuts/screws hold the side panel
on. I don't use the long angled piece at all.
Linn
The attached photos are the only ones I can find that have more detail. The
conduit ends after it goes forward through the side rib lighting holes (the
ones where I installed the large grommets). Forward of that the runs just
use snap bushings like Van's has in his plans. I think I had to add one
additional hole on one side.
Note - there is no way to get all the wires and such past the panel bulkhead
just using the left side (with the supplied cover plate) per the planes. I
ran a 1" or so wire bundle up the inside of the last right side rib then
past the panel bulkhead in the side channel. I slightly enlarged the panel
notch that straddles the side channel for added clearance. I used some
plastic mesh conduit for this run. Most of it is hidden behind the little
side cover plate (photos #8 & #9).
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slickstart and electronic tachs |
I went with the solution that puts a sensor into one of the two mags. I
forget the details.... and whether it operates when the mag is switched off.
Why? Because I no longer look for a mag drop as a mag check. Rather,
with a GRT EFIS and EIS I watch EGTs during the mag check. When one is
switched off, all EGTs should rise. If there is a problem with a plug
or a cylinder, that EGT won't rise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: RE: Routing electrical conduit |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Why is this a separate thread?
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402862#402862
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How many turns to adjust low RPM on Silver Hawk EX injector |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Probably about half a turn, IIRC.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Jun 14, 2013, at 2:41 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Hi,
> my idle RPM is too high 900 RPM, I need to adjust the throttle lever on the Silver
Hawk EX and wonder if someone knows how many turns on the adjustment nut
equal 100 RPM.
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final system testing)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402696#402696
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
It's that time again!
Short version:
- I will once again facilitate an RV-10 group camping area in Camp Scholler.
- Same basic setup routine as in past years pay starting Tuesday the week prior
and get a refund if you leave early.
- Pay direct to EAA for the site(s).
- Contact me directly at bcondrey (at) gmail (dot) com with your name, EAA number,
ticket number so I can pick up your site tags to mark your site(s).
- Tim still has info from past years on his website at: http://www.myrv10.com/osh/. Except for revised payment and arrival procedures, most of the rest of it should still be valid.
Long version:
AirVenture is getting close and I will again facilitate an RV-10 group camping
area in Camp Scholler for those interested. As in the past I will stake out sites
on Tuesday (7/23 this year) the week prior to the show starting. It's done
this early simply because we like the close proximity to the show, entry gates,
showers, etc. Camp sites will be marked off and "staked out" that Tuesday morning
and MUST have a registration tag. Yes, that means that you may be paying
for a few nights you where wont be physically there camping, but the tradeoff
is that youll be in a primo location, with other like-minded RV-10 builders/flyers
and without having to actually get there early yourself. EAA has ramped
up their scrutiny of those marking off sites and not actually paying for them
(no tags). Please understand - I cannot mark off sites that that dont have
paid registrations!
In order to keep the workload to a minimum, I'm going to do things just like last
year, so here's the deal:
- Make payment to EAA direct. They now allow for prepaying campsites and specifying any arrival date. There's a link at the bottom of this page to make payment http://www.airventure.org/planning/advance_camp.html. Cost this year is $25/night and EAA charges from the first night you're registered through the end of the show (including Sunday night). If you leave early you get a refund for unused nights directly from EAA.
- I will mark off and tag sites the morning of Tuesday, 7/23. The camping area
really starts filling up quickly that week.
- You'll need to email me your info (EAA #, name, ticket #) after you've made payment
so I can build a list of the tags to pick up from EAA. To make things a
little easier, please also include whether youll be in a tent, 40 Class A, etc.
so we can accomoate that when laying out the sites. Theres a little latitude
to make sites larger than the standard 20x30 if necessary. Please email me direct
at bcondrey (at) gmail (dot) com with your info.
- I'll send an email out to those on my list after the sites are staked out so
you know where we'll be, along with instructions on picking up the rest of your
credentials. Ill try to leave the info packs & credentials with EAA so you
can just go through the express registration gate and pick them up. Last year
there was a little confusion there so it may be that Ill keep them and you can
call when you get close (just like I did prior to last year) Ill make that
decision when I see how organized they are this year.
- If you're flying in and will be camping with us I'll pick up your entire credential
package so you won't have to make your way to the entry gate.
If you've never camped with us, we generally will be in the area of 52nd and Lindbergh in Camp Scholler which is about a 5 minute walk to either the FlyMarket or Theater in the Woods gates. The Camp Store and a shower building are across from the FlyMarket entry gate, so about a 5 minute walk to any of the necessities. For the airshows we walk straight east across Knapp St., through the Vintage area and sit along the west side of 18/36. It's about a 10-15 minute walk from our campsites. http://www.airventure.org/planning/av11_schollermap.pdf
I dont have any details yet about activities that might get organized in the camping
area. Several people have contacted me offline and I've told everybody
that I'd post something in June so here it is! In the past there has been at least
one large group cookout. Whether we have one this year will depend on whether
somebody steps up to the plate to organize it! Many of us are happy to
help with that, we just need somebody to work out the up-front logistics.
Here's a link to Tim's website where he's accumulated a lot of info on our group camping from past years. Except for revised payment and arrival procedures, most of the rest of it should still be valid: http://www.myrv10.com/osh/.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402952#402952
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How many turns to adjust low RPM on Silver Hawk EX injector |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks Jesse,
your right, I tried it over three iterations until I realized it just takes minor
adjustments.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402961#402961
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Takeoff and Landing chart |
Anyone have a chart for their POH that covers runway takeoffs at
different altitudes, over the 50 foot obstacles, landing distances, etc.
Thank you!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Takeoff and Landing chart |
I don't have graphs and tables but I did record some empirical information
in the POH, as follows:
***********************************
*Take-off Performance*
Safe takeoff has been demonstrated at 10,000 foot density altitude
conditions. At a takeoff weight of 2600 pounds, the aircraft was 100 feet
AGL after 4000 feet of runway. There was no headwind.
The aircraft was run up and leaned for best performance before starting the
ground roll. Flaps were set at 1/3.
Typical sea level takeoff generally requires less than 1000 feet.
***********************************
That's not a ton of information but it's a useful data point. We did this
on the way back from OSH at KEMM. 4000' was approximately mid-field.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 12:38 PM, Pascal wrote:
> Anyone have a chart for their POH that covers runway takeoffs at
> different altitudes, over the 50 foot obstacles, landing distances, etc.
> Thank you!
>
> Pascal
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Takeoff and Landing chart |
Thank you Dave. Any information is helpful.
Pascal
From: Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Takeoff and Landing chart
I don't have graphs and tables but I did record some empirical
information in the POH, as follows:
***********************************
Take-off Performance
Safe takeoff has been demonstrated at 10,000 foot density altitude
conditions. At a takeoff weight of 2600 pounds, the aircraft was 100
feet AGL after 4000 feet of runway. There was no headwind.
The aircraft was run up and leaned for best performance before starting
the ground roll. Flaps were set at 1/3.
Typical sea level takeoff generally requires less than 1000 feet.
***********************************
That's not a ton of information but it's a useful data point. We did
this on the way back from OSH at KEMM. 4000' was approximately
mid-field.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 12:38 PM, Pascal wrote:
Anyone have a chart for their POH that covers runway takeoffs at
different altitudes, over the 50 foot obstacles, landing distances, etc.
Thank you!
Pascal
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | NAS517-5-9 Countersink Still Making The Rounds? |
Is the cabin top seat belt NAS517-5-9 countersink still making the
rounds? If so, can I be put on the list?
-Sean #40303 (sand, fill, rinse, repeat...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NAS517-5-9 Countersink Still Making The Rounds? |
Recommend about 8 layers of glass on the inside of the cabin top, perhaps 6" or
so in diameter around where the seat belt screw goes. I didn't view the top
alone being adequate to hold the screw head from pulling out after it was properly
countersunk.
I also took a step to flatten out the screw head and make it a square, then imbedded
it in flox. That way the screw would not rotated when tightening the nut
on the inside. Sand the flox down, add some mico to feather, then ready for
paint prep.
Carl
On Jun 22, 2013, at 2:09 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Is the cabin top seat belt NAS517-5-9 countersink still making the rounds? If
so, can I be put on the list?
>
> -Sean #40303 (sand, fill, rinse, repeat...)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Routing electrical conduit |
Thanks Carl
That is exactly what I needed to know!
Cheers
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: domingo, 16 de Junho de 2013 20:12
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
The attached photos are the only ones I can find that have more detail. The
conduit ends after it goes forward through the side rib lighting holes (the
ones where I installed the large grommets). Forward of that the runs just
use snap bushings like Van's has in his plans. I think I had to add one
additional hole on one side.
Note - there is no way to get all the wires and such past the panel bulkhead
just using the left side (with the supplied cover plate) per the planes. I
ran a 1" or so wire bundle up the inside of the last right side rib then
past the panel bulkhead in the side channel. I slightly enlarged the panel
notch that straddles the side channel for added clearance. I used some
plastic mesh conduit for this run. Most of it is hidden behind the little
side cover plate (photos #8 & #9).
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
Carl
Indeed 1 image is better than a thousand words!... Thanks
However in your 2nd picture one cannot see how the 3 conduits pass through
the F-1004 C & D Center section bulkheads (the plans show only two 5/8"
holes), or did you stop the conduits there and only continued the electric
wires forward of those bulkheads?
Do you have a picture that shows forward of those bulkheads?
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: sexta-feira, 14 de Junho de 2013 12:09
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
I didn't use the Van's electrical kit but here is how I ran the three
conduits on each side. Note - where these lines pass through the rear seat
pan or ribs I used an adhesive to make sure there was no relative motion
between the corrugated conduit and the aluminum. On the side lightning
holes I added large rubber grommets in the lighting holes.
I figured I needed two runs on each side, but added a third just in case. I
ended up using it. I have the two ADHRS modules mounted aft of the baggage
compartment as most do, so they have two 1/4" lines from the wing going aft
(pitot and AOA) and two going from aft up to the panel (pitot and static) as
I have a couple of analog gauges in the panel. All wire and tubing runs are
in the conduit including the #2 welding cable from both masters to the
starter solenoid.
Carl
RV-8A (sold last week)
RV-10, 95 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hi all. I can=92t seem to find in the archives if this question has been
asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be
bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has
anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I
have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave
the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40
clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from
flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes
.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
I think you will want both halves together for the hinge fitting. The doors
are going to morph around enough that the hinges would likely bind later.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 23, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has
been asked before.
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to b
e bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has an
yone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I hav
e just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the d
oor halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 cleco
es around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Rick,
Personally I would wait until the halves are together before drilling the hi
nges. They change a lot during the process and the other skin will affect th
em.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 23, 2013, at 15:40, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has
been asked before.
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to b
e bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has an
yone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I hav
e just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the d
oor halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 cleco
es around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I agree with this as well. Wait until door halves are bonded to install hing
es.
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 23, 2013, at 5:57 PM, Seano wrote:
> Rick,
> Personally I would wait until the halves are together before drilling the h
inges. They change a lot during the process and the other skin will affect t
hem.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 23, 2013, at 15:40, Rick Lark wrote:
>
>> Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question ha
s been asked before.
>>
>> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to b
e bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has an
yone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I hav
e just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the d
oor halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 cleco
es around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>>
>> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>>
>> Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>>
>> =========================
=========
>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> =========================
=========
>> cs.com
>> =========================
=========
>> matronics.com/contribution
>> =========================
=========
>>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Rick
The doors are a major pain. The fit WILL change SS you go through the fittin
g process. I installed the billet handles after the fact. It was not a big d
eal. The doors and the fitting is a big job.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2013-06-23, at 3:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has
been asked before.
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to b
e bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has an
yone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I hav
e just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the d
oor halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 cleco
es around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had
filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As
it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and
then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much
time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Hi all.I cant seem to find in the archives if this question has been
> asked before.
>
> Ihave my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to
> be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the
> hinges.Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the
> hinge install?I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and
> would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being.My
> concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are
> sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the
> opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed.Thx.
>
> Rick
>
> #40956
>
> Southampton, Ont
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strat
egically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in
and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type
foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can def
orm the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with so
me micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled t
he voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I pla
n on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning
up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has b
een asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be
bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyo
ne not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have
just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the do
or halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoe
s around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/23/13
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hey thx to all that replied. I expected that bonding the doors first would
be the general consensus. I guess the Plane Around latch is easy enough to
install after the fact. I like the idea of using low expansion foam in any
voids. I will take a good look before I do the bonding and figure out
where to drill some holes.
Regards, Rick
On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 8:32 PM, wrote:
> That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several
> strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam
> can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal
> expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes,
> otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and fi
ll
> in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where t
he
> pin rods go through.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
> *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent: *Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
> *Subject: *Re: RV10-List: doors
>
> The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had fille
d
> the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I
> plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then
> cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
> Linn
>
> On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Hi all. I can=92t seem to find in the archives if this question has bee
n
> asked before.
>
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to
> be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Ha
s
> anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install?
I
> have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave
> the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the
> #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door fro
m
> flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment hol
es.
>
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
>
> Rick
>
> #40956
>
> Southampton, Ont
>
> *
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/23/13
>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
Foam adds very little weight to the door, stiffens the door considerably an
d there should not be any exterior openings for water to enter if you drill
your filling holes on the interior side of the doors and plug them when yo
u are done. All of the Rutan based plans built aircraft such as the Long-EZ
and Cozy are made of foam sandwiched by fiberglass. Here's an old demo vid
eo from Burt himself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eUt0YnNF3o
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 11:03:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: doors
So no issue with added weight or the potential of retaining moisture or wat
er in the filled doors?
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strat
egically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in
and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type
foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can def
orm the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with so
me micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" < flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com >
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled t
he voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I pla
n on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning
up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has b
een asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be
bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyo
ne not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have
just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the do
or halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoe
s around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/23/13
get="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.ma
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- -M
==============
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD%
=EF=BD=EF=BDM4=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDx=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
=EF=BDw=EF=BDr=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Rick,
It would not be wise to try to drill the hinges until after the doors are bonded.
I installed foam inside the doors in selected areas for insulating purposes.
I also was able to install the center door latch prior to bonding the second
door. It actually was a lot easier. The only thing you need to be aware of
with the center door latch is to make sure it is installed no lower than what
is called out in the instructions. A little higher, like 1/16", is better.
The reason for this is the latching cam will rub on the Mcmaster-Carr trim as
the door closes, and once it is bonded in place there is no way to change it.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403287#403287
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
For stiffening the doors I would also recommend filling the epoxy with
flox and not cab-o-sil (p45-05, step 5) as suggested in the plans. I
tried both. With micro it was easy and oh so amusing to pull the door
halves apart. The flox is rock solid and noticeably stiffer.
After bonding you can use a high power light (e.g. 150W flood lamp) to
backlight the joint and spot if you left any voids. It helps to leave
one void deliberately to calibrate your inspection process ;-)
Cheers,
Gordon
41015 Switzerland
On Jun 24, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hey thx to all that replied. I expected that bonding the doors first
would be the general consensus. I guess the Plane Around latch is easy
enough to install after the fact. I like the idea of using low
expansion foam in any voids. I will take a good look before I do the
bonding and figure out where to drill some holes.
> Regards, Rick
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 8:32 PM, wrote:
> That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several
strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the
foam can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal
expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes,
otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and
fill in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out
where the pin rods go through.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
> From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
>
> The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had
filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As
it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and
then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much
time.
> Linn
>
> On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi all. I can=92t seem to find in the archives if this question has
been asked before.
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are
to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges.
Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge
install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would
like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern
is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to
keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the
hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/23/13
>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
It was pointed out to me that the original post had a typo on the email address.
I corrected that but just to restate, the correct email address should be:
condreyb (at) gmail (dot) com.
If you sent an email to that address about camping at Airventure this year, please
resend to me. I understand that "Barry" (owner of the incorrect email address)
has been good enough to redirect at least one person...
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403347#403347
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jackm" <jackm(at)vinetechequipment.com> |
Rick,
I agree with all the above...one thing I would add is when you go to cleco your
door skins to the fuse, One,make sure your cabin top is bolted to fuse in place
as you would on final install and Two DO NOT use the two fore and aft dimple
index to fix the doors to the fuse during epoxy fit. I found the indicator dimples
to be aprox 3/16 to high on the door on ours. You will find the doors will
be too low when you go trim to the cabin top opening. I did this on left door
and had to roll the complete door up to get adequate clearance between the
lower jam and door. You don't want this as you formed the door to fit the cabin
top curve. Right side we built spacers for the lower and sides to fit between
the jam and door inner ledge. Remember to add the door skins thickness dim
to the spacer as the door needs to drop down to be flush with the cabin top when
you trim door to fit the opening. This will also ensure that Seans latch will
clear the lower jam when you install them. Hope this makes sense....I almost
threw away the left door after I realized what I did.
--------
Jackm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403371#403371
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bmts <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
Thx Jack
I also had index holes that didn't match up worth a darn, so I used a spacer to
raise the doors and then drilled the doors to the fuse all this while the top
was bolted to the fuse. I'm hoping they are high enough to have Sean's latch
clears the McMaster seal. Thx, Rick
Sent from my iPhone
On 2013-06-25, at 1:53 AM, "Jackm" wrote:
>
> Rick,
>
> I agree with all the above...one thing I would add is when you go to cleco your
door skins to the fuse, One,make sure your cabin top is bolted to fuse in place
as you would on final install and Two DO NOT use the two fore and aft dimple
index to fix the doors to the fuse during epoxy fit. I found the indicator
dimples to be aprox 3/16 to high on the door on ours. You will find the doors
will be too low when you go trim to the cabin top opening. I did this on left
door and had to roll the complete door up to get adequate clearance between the
lower jam and door. You don't want this as you formed the door to fit the cabin
top curve. Right side we built spacers for the lower and sides to fit between
the jam and door inner ledge. Remember to add the door skins thickness dim
to the spacer as the door needs to drop down to be flush with the cabin top
when you trim door to fit the opening. This will also ensure that Seans latch
will clear the lower jam when you install them. Hope !
> this makes sense....I almost threw away the left door after I realized what I
did.
>
> --------
> Jackm
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403371#403371
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FAB Box Servo Mixture Arm |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> |
I have a IO 540 with a bendix fuel servo that has a straight mixture arm but I
need the offset arm. Does anyone have one for sale or trade? The straight arm
doesn't fit the FAB box from Van's. :(
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403437#403437
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | C/S-13 SPINNER FOR SALE |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> |
I bought a C/S-13 spinner for my plane but I will not be using it because a spinner
comes with my prop. I want 120.00 plus shipping.
Mike 612-590-8604.
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403439#403439
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAB Box Servo Mixture Arm |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I would check with your engine provider. Barrett, swapped the arm out for me.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403534#403534
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
A little background: we just finished the Hayward Air Rally (
www.hwdairrally.org) for about the 10th time. We placed 8th out of 22,
which is about where we usually place.
The rally judges us on fuel and time estimates during routes from the
Hayward, CA to Redding, then to Bend, OR. We were 1.2 gallons off of our
fuel estimate and 37 seconds off our time estimate. The winner was 6
seconds and 0.3 gallons off his estimate, in a 172.
This year we tried the "Glass Class", which allows us to us to use all
available technology, instead of just a compass, map, and stopwatch. The
penalties are tripled and our score ended up similar to our past entries.
The winner was in traditional class.
Every year the fuel penalty is our nemesis. We know why our time was off,
and next year we'll adjust for that. But we can't nail the fuel for any
amount of trying, even using the totalizer.
There seem to be two issues. First, the totalizer doesn't seem to be as
accurate at low ie, idle, power settings. It generally reads 2-3 gph,
which we think is high.
Second is refilling the tanks to the same level each time. We can't top
the tanks or it will vent enough overboard to ruin our score. We use tabs
that I installed to fill the tanks to about 28.5 gallons. Even refilling
to the same spot on the tab doesn't really return the results we want. We
need a system that will show when a tank is refilled to just the same level
each time.
Any suggestions? The rules allow us to level the plane, which we started
doing this year, and we can use a stick so long as it only has a single
calibration mark. We haven't used a stick yet. I'm also interested in
what others have noticed as far as extreme accuracy of their totalizer.
Plenty of folks report sub-gallon accuracy. Anyone doing much better than
that? How?
Last thing, the rally will be going from Hayward, California to Oshkosh for
AirVenture next year. It's a lot of fun, even if somewhat frustrating, and
of course a great challenge. If anyone is interested, please look into it.
More RVs would be great!
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Question |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
It is surprising how much temperature plays a role in the volumetric measurement
of fuel.
For extreme accuracy, you would need a temperature adjustment formula or graph
to fine tune a dipstick measurement. Airliners use dripsticks underneath the
wings but the reference tables are graphed by different temperature ranges.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403670#403670
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Question |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
37 seconds? That could just be the tower sequencing you #2 instead of #1. How can
you plan for that?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403671#403671
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Question |
These days we're all assigned GPS loggers. Ideally, the flagger gives us
the "GO" sign at the top of the minute but even if they don't, the data
shows pretty clearly when we start moving within a second or so. We get a
dedicated runway (usually) so we can take our time for the start. ATC
isn't involved, and it's the total flight time we're concerned with, not
the UTC start and stop--thankfully.
The end time is a low pass over an airport near the end point.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> 37 seconds? That could just be the tower sequencing you #2 instead of #1.
> How can you plan for that?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403671#403671
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Question |
Yep, temp is huge, especially when we used to vent half a gallon overboard
before we even started! The planes are topped and impounded the night
before departure, so the fuel gets to warm up all afternoon. I think we've
handled that but I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel flow is also affected.
But it's not impossible, and it's not dumb luck...I just don't know how
it's done yet.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 8:42 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> It is surprising how much temperature plays a role in the volumetric
> measurement of fuel.
>
> For extreme accuracy, you would need a temperature adjustment formula or
> graph to fine tune a dipstick measurement. Airliners use dripsticks
> underneath the wings but the reference tables are graphed by different
> temperature ranges.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing
> kit and FWF kit in progress.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403670#403670
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Mobile Jig |
Wanted to share this for those that might be ready for fuselage
mobility. Attached photos show a simple and inexpensive way to have a
mobile yet secure fuselage structure as you build.
I have gotten in and out of the fuselage hundreds of times and moved it
everywhere from front yard to backwards in the garage and it worked
great. Didn=92t want to share it with the group
until I was sure it worked for me..... It did, and I=92d do it again.
Use air tires, not hardened rubber.
Mine just moved up in the world to permanent gear. Not it=92s first
time either as I=92ve already fit and finished legs, fairings, and pants
some time ago. At that time this jig came off, then when
complete, went right back on. It is much easier to work on the fuselage
when down low then when on its gear. Hope this helps some of you fellow
builders...=85.
Rich Hansen
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Forever finishing!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Mobile Jig |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
I did this same thing. After I was up on the landing gear I donated the
set to another builder. Hope it is still making the rounds.
Works really well and the fuselage is low to the ground. Makes getting the
top fitted and access to the top portion really easy.
Jim C
40192 - Flying 460 hours! No Regrets
On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 10:38 AM, Karol Hansen wrot
e:
>
> Wanted to share this for those that might be ready for fuselage mobility.
> Attached photos show a simple and inexpensive way to have a mobile yet
> secure fuselage structure as you build.
> I have gotten in and out of the fuselage hundreds of times and moved it
> everywhere from front yard to backwards in the garage and it worked great
.
> Didn=92t want to share it with the group
> until I was sure it worked for me..... It did, and I=92d do it again. U
se
> air tires, not hardened rubber.
>
> Mine just moved up in the world to permanent gear. Not it=92s first time
> either as I=92ve already fit and finished legs, fairings, and pants some
time
> ago. At that time this jig came off, then when
> complete, went right back on. It is much easier to work on the fuselage
> when down low then when on its gear. Hope this helps some of you fellow
> builders...=85.
>
> Rich Hansen
>
> RV-6A Sold
> RV-10 Forever finishing!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)clear.net> |
_____
iPad 1 64GB with GPS & wiFi in near perfect condition and leather case for
sale: $250.00 including Express Mail Shipping to US.
FltPlan.Com with maps and approach plates installed. I plan on upgrading to
an iPad mini when sold.
__________________
Russ Daves
Lubbock, TX
N710RV - RV-10 Flying
N65RV - RV-6A Sold
N686RV - RV-6A FWF Rebuild & N number change
N742PZ - RV-8 Co-Builder Sold
N-867RV -RV-7 Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Things needed for the build |
| From: | "RichGurr" <carriageco(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have my RV 10 fast build kit set for delivery in August. My wife and I will
be flying to Osh and camping in the North 40 for a week to take a few
courses and shop for needed items. I want to make a list of tools and things that
I should get while there. I will have the complete kit minus the finish kit.
I have a shop with all the basic mechanic tools, for working on cars and things.
Any recommendations . Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403791#403791
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
SOLD.
Call or Email me ASAP.
Jim Villani
Cell: (702) 379 5524
Fax: (702) 946-1185
Email: Jim(at)Sold702.com
N10KQ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 4:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: iPad I For Sale
_____
iPad 1 64GB with GPS & wiFi in near perfect condition and leather case for
sale: $250.00 including Express Mail Shipping to US.
FltPlan.Com with maps and approach plates installed. I plan on upgrading to
an iPad mini when sold.
__________________
Russ Daves
Lubbock, TX
N710RV - RV-10 Flying
N65RV - RV-6A Sold
N686RV - RV-6A FWF Rebuild & N number change
N742PZ - RV-8 Co-Builder Sold
N-867RV -RV-7 Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
Russ,
I mis read that,
Was that an I-Pad 1 or 1 I-Pad?
If it was a 1 Sorry I cannot use it.
Jim Villani
Cell: (702) 379 5524
Fax: (702) 946-1185
Email: Jim(at)Sold702.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 4:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: iPad I For Sale
_____
iPad 1 64GB with GPS & wiFi in near perfect condition and leather case for
sale: $250.00 including Express Mail Shipping to US.
FltPlan.Com with maps and approach plates installed. I plan on upgrading to
an iPad mini when sold.
__________________
Russ Daves
Lubbock, TX
N710RV - RV-10 Flying
N65RV - RV-6A Sold
N686RV - RV-6A FWF Rebuild & N number change
N742PZ - RV-8 Co-Builder Sold
N-867RV -RV-7 Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
All the good tool shops offer "RV Tool Kits". They publish a list of tools.
I sort of remember Vans having a list of tools needed. Most of them will
work with you for adding or deleting as you need. Their kits are
substantial discount over buying separately.
Avery Tools http://www.averytools.com/
Cleaveland Tools http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/
Isham Tools http://www.planetools.com/
I'm probably forgetting others with kits.
Other sources, Brown Tools, The Yard, Aircraft Tool Supply, US Aircraft
Tools.
You will need more clecos (3/32 and 1/8") than anyone offers in the kits,
especially up to point where tail and fuselage are joined. You would find a
complete 0-60 numbered drill set from Harbor Freight useful for the
occasional times you need a size that is not in any of the kits.
After that you won't need that many. I'm sure that some builders would be
happy to unload some clecos. Some of us have a hard time getting rid of any
tools, long after they are no longer needed.
All of the kits will have a generic 3/8" air drill, preferably with a
keyless chuck.
For the majority of drilling you don't need the size or weight of a 3/8"
drill, and most of the generics don't have a light pull, easy to control
trigger. I didn't upgrade until after developing trigger finger syndrome on
my middle finger.
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=7300R is a relatively low
cost, light wt Chicago Pneumatics drill. Excellent trigger. While I prefer
a keyless chuck, it would add weight and cost, and the vast majority of
your drilling will be either 3/32 or 1/8" (#30().
Oh, also consider getting a few chucking reamers. Specifically #41 and
#30. #41 is closer to 3/32 than #40, and dimpling enlarges the hole
anyway, so you get better rivet fit, and you can just ream all the
prepunched holes without even using drill bit. A reamed hole needs less
deburring, is rounder, etc.
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15365
I'm sure others will offer more suggestions.
If you haven't found some of the excellent builder websites, start with Tim
Olson's
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/index.html
He has links to others.
Kelly
40866
90% done, 90% to finish
On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 6:31 AM, RichGurr wrote:
>
> I have my RV 10 fast build kit set for delivery in August. My wife and I
> will
> be flying to Osh and camping in the North 40 for a week to take a few
> courses and shop for needed items. I want to make a list of tools and
> things that I should get while there. I will have the complete kit minus
> the finish kit.
> I have a shop with all the basic mechanic tools, for working on cars and
> things. Any recommendations . Thanks
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403791#403791
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Take a look at the Avery or Cleaveland RV toolkits on their websites and subtract
out the things you already have.
Extras I purchased over time:
tungsten bucking bar (best tool purchase I made)
pneumatic squeezer
additional 300 or so 3/32 (silver) clecos
extra #30 & #40 bits
long #10 & #12 bits
long backrivet set
.2495 & .311 reamers
odd ball bits (#27, #28, #31)
tube flaring tool
tube bending tool
tank 3/32 dimple dies
safety wire pliers
I already had a Dremel, but I highly recommend one. For a hand squeezer, I also
recommend Cleaveland's "Main Squeeze" with at least a 3" yoke and a longeron
yoke.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403798#403798
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Yes, definitely a tungsten bucking bar. I use mine at least 90% of the time
and all the rest occasionally.
Pneumatic and hand squeezer.
DRDT=2 Dimpler is very useful and much faster than a hammer style C-Frame.
He won't need tank dimple dies if getting quick build wings.
Long and offset backrivet set are handy, wouldn't consider essential.
I also use http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=635 round bucking
bar for back riveting where it isn't easy to use back rivet plate.
On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 7:18 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
> Take a look at the Avery or Cleaveland RV toolkits on their websites and
> subtract out the things you already have.
>
> Extras I purchased over time:
> tungsten bucking bar (best tool purchase I made)
> pneumatic squeezer
> additional 300 or so 3/32 (silver) clecos
> extra #30 & #40 bits
> long #10 & #12 bits
> long backrivet set
> .2495 & .311 reamers
> odd ball bits (#27, #28, #31)
> tube flaring tool
> tube bending tool
> tank 3/32 dimple dies
> safety wire pliers
>
> I already had a Dremel, but I highly recommend one. For a hand squeezer,
> I also recommend Cleaveland's "Main Squeeze" with at least a 3" yoke and a
> longeron yoke.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
> RV-10 N728TT
> Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
> www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403798#403798
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Standley <taildragon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
I have a DRDT=2 Dimpler for sale if anyone is interested.
Date: Tue=2C 2 Jul 2013 07:38:05 -0700
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Things needed for the build
From: apilot2(at)gmail.com
Yes=2C definitely a tungsten bucking bar. I use mine at least 90% of the ti
me and all the rest occasionally.
Pneumatic and hand squeezer.
DRDT=2 Dimpler is very useful and much faster than a hammer style C-Frame
.
He won't need tank dimple dies if getting quick build wings.
Long and offset backrivet set are handy=2C wouldn't consider essential.
I also use http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=635 round buckin
g bar for back riveting where it isn't easy to use back rivet plate.
On Tue=2C Jul 2=2C 2013 at 7:18 AM=2C tsts4 wrote:
Take a look at the Avery or Cleaveland RV toolkits on their websites and su
btract out the things you already have.
Extras I purchased over time:
tungsten bucking bar (best tool purchase I made)
pneumatic squeezer
additional 300 or so 3/32 (silver) clecos
extra #30 & #40 bits
long #10 & #12 bits
long backrivet set
.2495 & .311 reamers
odd ball bits (#27=2C #28=2C #31)
tube flaring tool
tube bending tool
tank 3/32 dimple dies
safety wire pliers
I already had a Dremel=2C but I highly recommend one. For a hand squeezer
=2C I also recommend Cleaveland's "Main Squeeze" with at least a 3" yoke an
d a longeron yoke.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA=2C AOPA=2C Purple Pilots=2C VAF=2C and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone=2C Wings=2C Fuse=2C Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403798#403798
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le=2C List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
I would add my vote for the Cleveland angle drill kit and second the
recommendation for the Cleveland hand squeezer. While I have been happy
with my tools from Avery (I also have some from Cleveland), I wish I had
purchased both of these items from Cleveland. The squeezer is easier to
use and the angle drill kit head is much smaller and will fit in tighter
places.
Dave Fritzsche
RV-10 N965DF
Fuselage, Finishing
Take a look at the Avery or Cleaveland RV toolkits on their websites and subtract
out the things you already have.
Extras I purchased over time:
tungsten bucking bar (best tool purchase I made)
pneumatic squeezer
additional 300 or so 3/32 (silver) clecos
extra #30 & #40 bits
long #10 & #12 bits
long backrivet set
.2495 & .311 reamers
odd ball bits (#27, #28, #31)
tube flaring tool
tube bending tool
tank 3/32 dimple dies
safety wire pliers
I already had a Dremel, but I highly recommend one. For a hand squeezer, I also
recommend Cleaveland's "Main Squeeze" with at least a 3" yoke and a longeron
yoke.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403798#403798
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 33 hours with a 1-year-old |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
(I also posted this on VAF)
A few weeks ago we completed a 2-week trip in our RV-10, covering 5000+
miles in 33 hours with our 1-year-old boy. I thought we were a little crazy
to try it, but it worked out really well. I did a write-up on our site:
http://kochman.net/N819K/?p=1437
As always, I have to thank my wife for suggesting the RV-10 instead of the
-7. What an amazing family cross-country machine.
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | "eison" <eison1969(at)yahoo.com> |
I am in the final planning stages for Osh. I am camping with the group and having
an RV dropped off on Friday. I am planning on flying in Saturday late morning.
I have one open item, I have rented from United Rentals/RSC in Oshkosh a generator
in order to have a nice cool place to hang out in the middle of the day.
However, the RV place isn't allowed to pick up generators, and united Rentals
wants more to pick up and drop off than the cost of the rental. Additionally,
they aren't open on the weekends.....
Is anyone driving in on Friday the 26th that wouldn't mind grabbing a generator
for me? Failing that, Monday?
If all else fails, we can go powerless or pay the extra fee. Keeping the wife
and kid happy is important right????
You can email me at Eison1969 at yahoo dot com
Thanks
Eric Ison
--------
Eric Ison
RV 10 #40764
N984ED (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403828#403828
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NAS517-5-9 Countersink Still Making The Rounds? |
Hey Sean,
The traveling countersink is back home with me. I was waiting to see if
anyone else was ready for it, and forgot to check with you ... if you still
need it, get me your address and I'll get it out to you.
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 2:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: NAS517-5-9 Countersink Still Making The Rounds?
Is the cabin top seat belt NAS517-5-9 countersink still making the
rounds? If so, can I be put on the list?
-Sean #40303 (sand, fill, rinse, repeat...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | G3x Autopilot & Accessories |
Not sure everyone has seen the new Garmin G3x AP & servos but it looks like
they are kicking it into high gear with full G3x accessories. The AP is on
ly $750! Servos are also $750 ea.
Garmin is also offering a AOA Pitot & Heated AOA Pitot for $199 & $299 with
a regulated AOA Pitot coming. They also have a new back up ADAHRS.
Products
http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/prices
Here are some videos
http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/media/
[https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation
/sf/gmc305.jpg]
[https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation
/sf/gap26.jpg]
[https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation
/sf/gsa28.jpg]
[https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation
/sf/gsu25.jpg]
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: G3x Autopilot & Accessories |
| From: | "PlaneAround,LLC" <strasnuts(at)gmail.com> |
I was shocked how light everything is.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 2, 2013, at 21:55, Robin Marks wrote:
> Not sure everyone has seen the new Garmin G3x AP & servos but it looks lik
e they are kicking it into high gear with full G3x accessories. The AP is on
ly $750! Servos are also $750 ea.
> Garmin is also offering a AOA Pitot & Heated AOA Pitot for $199 & $299 wit
h a regulated AOA Pitot coming. They also have a new back up ADAHRS.
>
> Products
>
> http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/prices
>
> Here are some videos
>
> http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/media/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | G3x Autopilot & Accessories |
Considering they are matching Dynon on autopilot pricing, I'm thrilled that
Garmin is finally feeling some competition pressure.
Considering the grossly overpriced GTN-650 I put in my RV-10 (and horrible
Garmin after the sale service), perhaps we will soon have more value based
options for the rest of our avionics. I predict Dynon will again lead the
way.
Carl
RV-10 (105 hours)
RV-8A (sold - but it went to a good home)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 11:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: G3x Autopilot & Accessories
Not sure everyone has seen the new Garmin G3x AP & servos but it looks like
they are kicking it into high gear with full G3x accessories. The AP is only
$750! Servos are also $750 ea.
Garmin is also offering a AOA Pitot & Heated AOA Pitot for $199 & $299 with
a regulated AOA Pitot coming. They also have a new back up ADAHRS.
Products
http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/prices
Here are some videos
http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/media/
https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation/s
f/gmc305.jpg
https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation/s
f/gap26.jpg
https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation/s
f/gsa28.jpg
https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation/s
f/gsu25.jpg
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
| Subject: | G3x Autopilot & Accessories |
Ok.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@Ok...matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Froehlich
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2013 5:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: G3x Autopilot & Accessories
Considering they are matching Dynon on autopilot pricing, I'm thrilled that
Garmin is finally feeling some competition pressure.
Considering the grossly overpriced GTN-650 I put in my RV-10 (and horrible
Garmin after the sale service), perhaps we will soon have more value based
options for the rest of our avionics. I predict Dynon will again lead the
way.
Carl
RV-10 (105 hours)
RV-8A (sold - but it went to a good home)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 11:56 PM
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: G3x Autopilot & Accessories
Not sure everyone has seen the new Garmin G3x AP & servos but it looks like
they are kicking it into high gear with full G3x accessories. The AP is only
$750! Servos are also $750 ea.
Garmin is also offering a AOA Pitot & Heated AOA Pitot for $199 & $299 with
a regulated AOA Pitot coming. They also have a new back up ADAHRS.
Products
http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/prices
Here are some videos
http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/media/
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "RichGurr" <carriageco(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Thanks for the help. I have compiled a list. As far as the drills, what RPMs are
preferred for the build. Is slower ie 2000 or higher ie 3600 a better choice.
Do you see much difference between the Harbor Freight drills compared to the
ones at Cleaveland, or other suppliers. How many cleco do I need, approximately,
do I need foe the job.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403856#403856
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
For aluminum the higher speed is better. For steel and stainless, slower
is better. I now think 2 different drills are better than just one.
Harbor freight drill bits are good for occasional use. Aircraft drill
bits from the good suppliers last much longer.
I lost count on clecos.
On 7/3/2013 6:05 AM, RichGurr wrote:
>
> Thanks for the help. I have compiled a list. As far as the drills, what RPMs
are preferred for the build. Is slower ie 2000 or higher ie 3600 a better choice.
Do you see much difference between the Harbor Freight drills compared to
the ones at Cleaveland, or other suppliers. How many cleco do I need, approximately,
do I need foe the job.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403856#403856
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
IMO drill speed really didnt make a difference. I did my tailcone and wings with
a pneumatic, but most of the fuse was done with a combination of corded and
cordless electric drills. Where the pneumatics shine is in size and weight as
their compact size lets you get into tighter places and the lighter weight is
less fatiguing. Cant speak to Harbor Freight vs. any of the major suppliers
for drills, but I tend to steer clear of Harbor Freight for anything other than
items I consider to be expendable/throw-away stuff. IOW I tend to spend more
in order to get quality tools As for Clecos, most the kits come with around
375Id go up to at least 500. However, truth in lending, Im anal about clecoing
things together. I tend to cleco a lot of holes when I drill or rivet as
I want things nice and tight. Probably overkill but it gave me piece of mind.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403860#403860
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NAS517-5-9 Countersink Still Making The Rounds? |
I was able to acquire one in the meantime. Thanks for the reply.
-Sean #40303
On 7/2/13 5:16 PM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote:
>
> Hey Sean,
>
> The traveling countersink is back home with me. I was waiting to see
> if anyone else was ready for it, and forgot to check with you ... if
> you still need it, get me your address and I'll get it out to you.
> Later, - Lew
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 2:09 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: NAS517-5-9 Countersink Still Making The Rounds?
>
>
> Is the cabin top seat belt NAS517-5-9 countersink still making the
> rounds? If so, can I be put on the list?
>
> -Sean #40303 (sand, fill, rinse, repeat...)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
If you have a chance, try to use some of these tools before selecting
and buying. Oshkosh may give you an opportunity to do that.
I started my build with a no longer offered 5 day "build the tail kit"
class where I had the chance to try a variety of tools - e.g. 4
different manual rivet squeezers, power squeezers, countersinks, etc. I
had no idea there was so much variation even between quality tools. I
came away with a distinct preference for a brand of manual squeezers
(and a classmate had a distinctly different preference). I'm not sure
that pneumatic cleco guns are all that popular.... I used one that
convinced me I didn't want one, I used a second and it became a good friend.
There are not a lot of opportunities to try before you buy and my guess
is that most of us don't get the chance. No worries since whatever you
end up with is likely to become 'the best tool for the job' no matter what.
As others have said, definitely get a power squeezer, a DRT2 (sic), and
at least one good pneumatic drill with a hand twist chuck. Whether you
use an electric drill or not, get a lightweight electric driver.
General purpose tools include a good drill press, floor standing if you
can, and a good band saw. You also need a bench grinder with 1 or 2
Scotchbrite wheels on it for deburring. This should be mounted on a
pedestal rather than a bench for easy handling of the aluminum. A good
heavy vice is more than handy throughout the build.
I bought a lot of HF stuff and still do but good is not equal to HF.
Single use and disposable = HF but that can definitely have a place in
your project (see fiberglass work).
Bill "missing the build just a little but I'm done" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "RichGurr" <carriageco(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I agree about the Harbor Freight tools, usual I buy for a one time project. I
can shop prices before Osh now to check for the best deals.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403885#403885
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
No one mentioned the obvious - you need an air compressor. 'Oil free' are useful
if you are going to use it for painting, but they're also much louder than oil
lubricated ones. Look at the cubic ft per minute numbers. Some of the smaller
ones cannot keep up if you're doing a lot of drilling, and definitely can't
keep up with spray painting.
Shop supplies: boelube or cutting oil for drilling hard metals, lube oil for air
tools, thread sealant for pipe threads, scotch brite pads, felt tip pens, etc.
Center punch for starting the process of removing rivets, 1/8 and 3/32 pin punches
for the same reason!
I found a scotch bright grinding wheel much more useful than I ever thought.
Also, stuff gets lost. Almost everyone ends up buying an assortment of rivets,
bolts, nuts, etc. And get some "opps" rivets from Vans.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403887#403887
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Coming in from MKE with a Ford EDGE SUV. How can I help.
John Cox
On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 2:54 PM, eison wrote:
>
> I am in the final planning stages for Osh. I am camping with the group
> and having an RV dropped off on Friday. I am planning on flying in
> Saturday late morning.
>
> I have one open item, I have rented from United Rentals/RSC in Oshkosh a
> generator in order to have a nice cool place to hang out in the middle of
> the day. However, the RV place isn't allowed to pick up generators, and
> united Rentals wants more to pick up and drop off than the cost of the
> rental. Additionally, they aren't open on the weekends.....
>
> Is anyone driving in on Friday the 26th that wouldn't mind grabbing a
> generator for me? Failing that, Monday?
>
> If all else fails, we can go powerless or pay the extra fee. Keeping the
> wife and kid happy is important right????
>
> You can email me at Eison1969 at yahoo dot com
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Eric Ison
>
> --------
> Eric Ison
> RV 10 #40764
> N984ED (reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403828#403828
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
I got him covered John, but stop by anyway! The beer is on me this time.
Bob
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013, John Cox wrote:
> Coming in from MKE with a Ford EDGE SUV. How can I help.
>
> John Cox
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 2:54 PM, eison
> > wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> I am in the final planning stages for Osh. I am camping with the group
>> and having an RV dropped off on Friday. I am planning on flying in
>> Saturday late morning.
>>
>> I have one open item, I have rented from United Rentals/RSC in Oshkosh a
>> generator in order to have a nice cool place to hang out in the middle of
>> the day. However, the RV place isn't allowed to pick up generators, and
>> united Rentals wants more to pick up and drop off than the cost of the
>> rental. Additionally, they aren't open on the weekends.....
>>
>> Is anyone driving in on Friday the 26th that wouldn't mind grabbing a
>> generator for me? Failing that, Monday?
>>
>> If all else fails, we can go powerless or pay the extra fee. Keeping the
>> wife and kid happy is important right????
>>
>> You can email me at Eison1969 at yahoo dot com
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Eric Ison
>>
>> --------
>> Eric Ison
>> RV 10 #40764
>> N984ED (reserved)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403828#403828
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
The "oops" rivet selection from Avery worked better for me, because I
used the NAS1097-3 size to install nutplates by countersinking for that
tiny head instead of dimpling. Makes a much nicer install. The liquid
Boelube is excellent for drilling stainless steel, like firewall. It
also is great for first time install of screw/bolt into a new nutplate.
Oil lube compressor IMHO is far better than oiless, because you do so
much work needing compressed air, and unless compressor is in another
room/noise cabinet the oiless noise will drive you crazy. I got 30 gal
Husky. I think Lowes may have a bit nicer 30 gal now. Some of the kits
come with Scotchbrite wheel. Builder's hardware kit for those extra
bolts and screws you always need will save time.
On 7/3/2013 1:43 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> No one mentioned the obvious - you need an air compressor. 'Oil free' are useful
if you are going to use it for painting, but they're also much louder than
oil lubricated ones. Look at the cubic ft per minute numbers. Some of the smaller
ones cannot keep up if you're doing a lot of drilling, and definitely can't
keep up with spray painting.
>
> Shop supplies: boelube or cutting oil for drilling hard metals, lube oil for
air tools, thread sealant for pipe threads, scotch brite pads, felt tip pens,
etc.
>
> Center punch for starting the process of removing rivets, 1/8 and 3/32 pin punches
for the same reason!
>
> I found a scotch bright grinding wheel much more useful than I ever thought.
>
> Also, stuff gets lost. Almost everyone ends up buying an assortment of rivets,
bolts, nuts, etc. And get some "opps" rivets from Vans.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403887#403887
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
I got him covered John, but stop by anyway! The beer is on me this time.
Bob
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013, John Cox wrote:
> Coming in from MKE with a Ford EDGE SUV. How can I help.
>
> John Cox
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 2:54 PM, eison
> > wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> I am in the final planning stages for Osh. I am camping with the group
>> and having an RV dropped off on Friday. I am planning on flying in
>> Saturday late morning.
>>
>> I have one open item, I have rented from United Rentals/RSC in Oshkosh a
>> generator in order to have a nice cool place to hang out in the middle of
>> the day. However, the RV place isn't allowed to pick up generators, and
>> united Rentals wants more to pick up and drop off than the cost of the
>> rental. Additionally, they aren't open on the weekends.....
>>
>> Is anyone driving in on Friday the 26th that wouldn't mind grabbing a
>> generator for me? Failing that, Monday?
>>
>> If all else fails, we can go powerless or pay the extra fee. Keeping the
>> wife and kid happy is important right????
>>
>> You can email me at Eison1969 at yahoo dot com
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Eric Ison
>>
>> --------
>> Eric Ison
>> RV 10 #40764
>> N984ED (reserved)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403828#403828
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
>
> No one mentioned the obvious - you need an air compressor. 'Oil free' are useful
if you are going to use it for painting, but they're also much louder than
oil lubricated ones. Look at the cubic ft per minute numbers. Some of the smaller
ones cannot keep up if you're doing a lot of drilling, and definitely can't
keep up with spray painting.
Yes, I got a pretty large one from Home Depot/Lowes. My sense is that
oil free is for casual use - building the '10 is not casual - but I
don't really know. The one thing I was absolutely not going to do was
paint... but I ended up painting. Instead of creating a clean, dry air
supply, I went with a turbine HVLP system. But I digress, that's all
waaaay down the line so don't get hung up on finishing at the start,
just get what you need for a lot of aluminum work.
>
> Center punch for starting the process of removing rivets, 1/8 and 3/32 pin punches
for the same reason!
I never used a center punch for rivet removal! I should have. I just
relied on the little hole on the top of each rivet to guide the drill.
It worked, usually.
>
> I found a scotch bright grinding wheel much more useful than I ever thought.
Had never heard of them before but at class, I learned to deburr every
single piece of aluminum as the first step in any assembly. Do the plans
tell you to do that? Don't know, but relative to all the anal
activities you can get involved with, deburring seems to be a big one
to me.... priming, not so much (helmet on).
>
> Also, stuff gets lost. Almost everyone ends up buying an assortment of rivets,
bolts, nuts, etc. And get some "opps" rivets from Vans.
>
Speaking of anal... if you really get into using the right rivet to get
the right sized head in every instance, you quickly discover that Vans
supplies a limited range of sizes but doesn't include half sizes or
enough of certain sizes. My build-the-tail class instructor loved
watching us struggle with a particular rivet, then pulling out a bottle
of half size rivets to try. He knew every single mismatch. But of
course, Vans knows what really matters. None of those half size rivets
were really needed because every single rivet didn't need to be perfect.
Bill "Sorry for getting lost in the weeds here" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I would suggest biting the bullet and getting a complete RV-10 build kit from one
of the tool suppliers (I used Avery). They will include stuff that your not
familiar with, but will be invaluable at the right time.
The best thing I got was the Sioux air drill with an optional keyless chuck. The
suggestions on extra clecos and drill bits are good. Don't try to save a few
bucks on cheap bits - get plenty.
I need to rephrase this - the best thing was the pneumatic squeezer.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403915#403915
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Must haves (in my book):
- start with a RV tool kit
- spend the money on the Sioux drill, worth every penny!
- buy a keyless quick change chuck for the drill, you'll save tons of time in bit
changes.
- buy a second countersink drill cage, leave one set up for #40 and one for #30.
- pneumatic riveter with deep throat and longeron yokes
- tungsten bucking bar
- the DRDT is very nice too. Not a must have in my book unless you are building
at home, then it is a must have as it makes no sound....
- you can never have too many clecos
- also buy 10-20 of the larger clecos (black, gold)
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 4, 2013, at 9:13 AM, "johngoodman" wrote:
>
> I would suggest biting the bullet and getting a complete RV-10 build kit from
one of the tool suppliers (I used Avery). They will include stuff that your not
familiar with, but will be invaluable at the right time.
>
> The best thing I got was the Sioux air drill with an optional keyless chuck.
The suggestions on extra clecos and drill bits are good. Don't try to save a few
bucks on cheap bits - get plenty.
> I need to rephrase this - the best thing was the pneumatic squeezer.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403915#403915
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Things needed for the build |
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
Never saw this mentioned, so in case it wasn't: One of my MOST used tools was
and is a Die Grinder. Mine I believe is a CP and I've used it so much that it
should have died long ago, but still survives as if it were new. Shaping, fitting,
cutting, elongating holes, etc. If you put it to work for you it may become
your best friend quickly! I also agree with others about the pneumatic
squeezers - also a best friend. Find one that fits your liking and learn how
to use it. It can give you quick, professional, repeatable and consistent rivet
sets. This is my second plane and I don't even own a hand squeezer! Certainly
there were a few areas where I could have used it, but your choice. Hope
that helps. Oh, and yes both of these require a compressor - my choice is one
with a separate electric motor and separate compressor motor - for the most
part they seem much more quiet. I've painted lots of things with mine and had
no bleed in problems with oil or moisture using a filter/dryer in-line, before
the gun.
Rich Hansen
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 forever finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 Emp & Wings for sale |
I have decided to sell my RV10 project. If you know of any one who is inter
ested please refer them to this link.=0A-=0Ahttp://www.vansairforce.com/c
ommunity/showthread.php?p=785146#post785146=0A-=0AThanks=0ASteve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "RichGurr" <carriageco(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I will check out the RV tool kits while at Osh. As pointed out, I can delete any
tools I may have. Based on everyones input, a Pneumatic Squeezer is on the
must have list. Have a safe Independence Day!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403943#403943
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Stop at KPMH on your way home. I have a DRDT-2, books, trays, oops rivets and many
other items left over.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403944#403944
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "RichGurr" <carriageco(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have read about various colors for clecos. What color equals the size. Are
silver 40, copper 30 etc. also, if anyone wants to get rid of some tools collecting
dust, I am interested in things I will need for the build. PM me if you
want to depart with something.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403973#403973
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
I copied this from Aircraft Spruce.
Linn
Description Fastener Size Color Code Drill Size Part Number Buy
Sub-Total
Sheet Holders M-1/8 Cleco 1/8" Copper #30 12-01138 *$0.48*
Sheet Holders M-3/16 Cleco 3/16" Brass #10 12-01139 *$0.49*
Sheet Holders M-3/32 Cleco 3/32" Cadmium #40 12-01140 *$0.49*
Sheet Holders M-5/32 Cleco 5/32" Black #20 12-01141 *$0.48*
On 7/5/2013 8:25 AM, RichGurr wrote:
>
> I have read about various colors for clecos. What color equals the size. Are
silver 40, copper 30 etc. also, if anyone wants to get rid of some tools collecting
dust, I am interested in things I will need for the build. PM me if
you want to depart with something.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403973#403973
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
For clarification,
#40 is silver for #3 (3/32) rivets,
#30 is Copper for #4 (4/32 = 1/8) rivets,
#19/20 is Black for #5 rivets or #8 screws, and
#10/12 is Gold/Brass for #6 rivets, #10 screws or AN3 bolts.
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 5, 2013, at 8:34 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
> I copied this from Aircraft Spruce.
> Linn
> Description Fastener Size Color Code Drill Size Part Number
Buy Sub-Total
> Sheet Holders M-1/8 Cleco 1/8" Copper #30 12-01138 $0.
48
> Sheet Holders M-3/16 Cleco 3/16" Brass #10 12-01139 $0.
49
> Sheet Holders M-3/32 Cleco 3/32" Cadmium #40 12-01140
$0.49
> Sheet Holders M-5/32 Cleco 5/32" Black #20 12-01141 $0.
48
>
> On 7/5/2013 8:25 AM, RichGurr wrote:
>>
>> I have read about various colors for clecos. What color equals the size.
Are silver 40, copper 30 etc. also, if anyone wants to get rid of some to
ols collecting dust, I am interested in things I will need for the build. P
M me if you want to depart with something.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403973#403973
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
The instructions for the finish kit indicate that it's best to complete
the instructions on pages FF1-2 & FF1-3 of the firewall forward kit
PRIOR to installing the engine mount. Does someone have a scan or
picture of these two pages ? I am not ordering the FF kit and would like
to know what to install/complete.
Many thanks
--Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
Here you go.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Walker
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 1:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FF1-2 & FF1-3
The instructions for the finish kit indicate that it's best to complete
the instructions on pages FF1-2 & FF1-3 of the firewall forward kit
PRIOR to installing the engine mount. Does someone have a scan or
picture of these two pages ? I am not ordering the FF kit and would like
to know what to install/complete.
Many thanks
--Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: B: Seven Devices, One Chip to Navigate without GPS |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
For those going to OSH, see if you can find one of the EFIS vendors that
will incorporate an INS like this into their ADAHARS and/or GPS:
http://www.vectornav.com/
Seems just the ticket for times that RAIM is insufficient on GPS or the
military decides to jam an area.
Now if they would just package that as a replacement for the VFR GPS
antenna that Dynon sells for $250, we could really cause some serious envy
in the certified world..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | "Suitable" Release Agent for Prop Governor Gasket |
ah... the simple things can be so hard. I'm trying to install my PCU5000-X Prop
Governor. The instructions call for a "suitable" release agent to be applied
to the gasket. Any idea what that might be?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
95/95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Choosing the switches |
Guys
It's time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I wonder which
ones are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker or just
2 separate toggle switches?
For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined keyed
switch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button momentary
starter switch?
And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the
choice: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
Thanks for your opinions
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Choosing the switches |
I think there is too much customization and personal preference, that there
really isn't a defacto popular choice.
For example, for those of us that have Vertical Power units, all the
switches are just logic switches and carry no real current. This means we
can be a little more creative on which switches we use. For most of my
switches I took the easy way out. It also means that the VP device controls
the master and alternator functions.
Since I have an Aerosport Products' instrument panel and I have a
relationship with Aerosport Products (I manage the website for them), I went
with Geoff's rocker switches. They work just fine.
I did use the ACS keyed switch, since I only wanted to carry a single key
for the ignition, doors, and baggage door.
Almost all my switches are rockers. I have only one color coded switch, the
rest are all black. I started to color coded them, but quickly realized all
the same colors were grouped together. i.e. a bank of four all red. Since
the banks of switches all have different functions, I used the physical
placement to differentiate rather than color.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 5:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Choosing the switches
Guys
It's time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I wonder which
ones are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker or just
2 separate toggle switches?
For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined keyed
switch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button momentary
starter switch?
And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the
choice: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
Thanks for your opinions
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | "Suitable" Release Agent for Prop Governor Gasket |
Tite Seal:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=TITE+SEAL+NO.+55&x=0&y=0
It does not harden. One can will last a lifetime.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 10:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: "Suitable" Release Agent for Prop Governor Gasket
ah... the simple things can be so hard. I'm trying to install my PCU5000-X
Prop Governor. The instructions call for a "suitable" release agent to be
applied to the gasket. Any idea what that might be?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
95/95
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I have usually installed simple toggle switches for most things, with the no
rmal key switch for mags and starter. I also like separate toggle switches f
or mags.
For master and alt, I like to use a toggle switch for master and to put alt f
ield on my avionics bus so it comes on with the avionics master. I use the K
lixon pull able breakers so I can reset it if necessary.
I prefer toggle switches because it is easier to add one after the panel is f
inished by simply drilling a round hole.
The classy rocker switches are very nice to look at, and I like the way they
can be labeled right on the switch, but they are more expensive and harder t
o add or remove. I recently worked on a plane that had all rocker switches (
the big black ones that were engraved with labels. There are 4-5 switches th
at aren't used any more and if I remove them, there will be big holes in the
panel.
Just MHO.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 7, 2013, at 5:32 AM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote:
> Guys
>
> It=99s time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I wonder
which ones are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
>
> For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker or jus
t 2 separate toggle switches?
>
> For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined keyed swi
tch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button momentary starter s
witch?
>
> And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the choi
ce: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
>
> Thanks for your opinions
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches |
Toggle switches for me also. I really like the look of the rock rack switch
es but went with the toggles in the end for reasons others have already sta
ted.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 5:32:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Choosing the switches
Guys
It=99s time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I wonder
which ones are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker or just
2 separate toggle switches?
For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined keyed swit
ch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button momentary starter
switch?
And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the choic
e: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
Thanks for your opinions
Carlos
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches |
Classic toggles on my panel other than a standard keyed mag/start switch
for a bit of security and large two position toggle for BATT and ALT.
You can purchase a toggle almost anywhere in a pinch and silly simple to
install, wire and operate.
Dave Leikam
On Jul 7, 2013, at 4:32 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
> Guys
>
> It=92s time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I wonder
which ones are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
>
> For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker or
just 2 separate toggle switches?
>
> For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined keyed
switch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button momentary
starter switch?
>
> And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the
choice: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
>
> Thanks for your opinions
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches |
I prefer the mags on toggles so if I want to clear the engine I can turn it
with the ignition off.
I used to have a separate position for the alternator field but now it
comes on with the battery.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches |
Especially for those with light 3 bladed props, having seperate switches for either
mags or elec ignition, you can leave the ignition off until the blades get
turning, then flip them on..... no kickpack or backfiring. Works everytime.
Don McDonald
520 hours and loving every minute.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Choosing the switches |
RV-10 Build:
[cid:image005.jpg(at)01CE7AF6.9CD74460]
RV-8A Build
[cid:image006.jpg(at)01CE7AF6.9CD74460]
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 2:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Choosing the switches
Guys
It's time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I wonder which on
es are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker or just
2 separate toggle switches?
For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined keyed swit
ch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button momentary starter
switch?
And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the choic
e: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
Thanks for your opinions
Carlos
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches |
I used the Aveo switches and had a few custom laser engraved.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC.
From: Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Choosing the switches
RV-10 Build:
RV-8A Build
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 2:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Choosing the switches
Guys
It=99s time to choose the switches for the RV-10 panel, and I
wonder which ones are more popular between the RV-10 builders:
For the Master and ALT field, have you used the Cessna split rocker or
just 2 separate toggle switches?
For the magnetos and starter, did everybody use the ACS combined keyed
switch, or is it better to use 2 toggles and one push-button momentary
starter switch?
And for the lights and other electrical equipment, which has been the
choice: the classic rocker switches or the color coded toggle switches?
Thanks for your opinions
Carlos
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