RV10-Archive.digest.vol-jl
July 07, 2013 - August 06, 2013
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r>
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
These work well.... (g)
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404142#404142
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/3pole_f_copy_162.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Choosing the switches |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Andair boost pump and filter |
| From: | Terry Moushon <tmoushon(at)gmail.com> |
> I have just started my RV10 fuselage and plan to use an IO540. I already p
urchased the Andair FS20X7-T (looks very well engineered).... and I am leani
ng toward using the Andair PX500-TC Pump and FX500-MK filter. Would like to
better understand why the fuel filter on most -10s are in the tunnel. What
drawbacks would there be for an "out of the cockpit" solution for the filte
r. Appreciate any/all thoughts.
I will be at Osh...looking forward to put faces with names.
Terry Moushon
Peoria Illinois
Builder 41393
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing the switches |
On 7/7/2013 8:11 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> The classy rocker switches are very nice to look at, and I like the
> way they can be labeled right on the switch, but they are more
> expensive and harder to add or remove. I recently worked on a plane
> that had all rocker switches (the big black ones that were engraved
> with labels. There are 4-5 switches that aren't used any more and if I
> remove them, there will be big holes in the panel.
>
I used white Honeywell rockers (AML34,24) with labels and backlighting.
All the above certainly applies though I haven't had to face any of that
yet beyond initial expense. My selection was based purely on personal
desire with the knowledge that toggles would be easier, cheaper, and
more flexible. But since I did my own panel, I enjoyed the challenge
and the finished appearance.
I didn't include a split rocker, nothing missed there.
I did use the ACS key switch and find it a good selection for my '10.
It's easy to leave the baggage key dangling outside unless you have to
have it to start the plane (there are other approaches to this problem
but this one works). Since you need a key for the baggage door, using
the same for ignition and just plain requiring a key ring is a handy
thing (my fuel key is on the ring too which is a great reminder).
Re the Honeywells - finding the right switches for a couple of functions
required some searching, e.g. AP source switching, flaps. Newark
Electronics turned out to be a great (stocked) source for switch items.
Cutting rectangular holes in an aluminum panel turned out to be
surprisingly easy with a hand file. The lights for the switches turn
out to be troublesome... it takes some fooling around to get the little
lights to consistently stay lit in a vibrating environment. There are
LED lights available as well as the standard incandescent. I use the
LEDs but went to incandescent for my LRC3 low voltage lights in order
for them to function properly. B&C can tell you how to make the LEDs
work there as well.
I used AML41 indicators for the idiot lights. Very handsome when
combined with the rockers.
I used dimmers on all switches and 2 of the idiot lights.
No VPN, did use Faststack, fuses along with 4 breakers, Z-14
a few pics here
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=5253
(I should include a pic of the whole panel)
Bill "300+ hours and still haven't replaced stick-on panel labels" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Choosing the switches |
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Cg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
I have an A&P friend whom I trust that has offered to help me rebuild an o-540.
He said he has two o-540's in his shop and that we could go with the 235hp
or we could change the pistons in one to make it a 250hp. He mentioned that with
the 235hp you would have the ability to use auto gas in case you got in a
bind somewhere. I've been planning on spending around $50,000 for a new io-540.
If I go this route with my friend, it could save me probably 35-40%.
How will using an 0-540 235hp or 250hp affect my fuel efficiency over a 260hp io-540?
What kind of extra work will be required on the firewall, cowling, etc. for using
a carbureted engine instead of a non-carbureted engine?
I'm open to suggestions.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404218#404218
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
Does anyone have pics of their safety wiring the tension arm bolts? The distance
between them seems a bit much to tie one to the other.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
Safety wire the bolt to the arm....
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 8, 2013, at 2:51 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> Does anyone have pics of their safety wiring the tension arm bolts? The distance
between them seems a bit much to tie one to the other.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
I believe there's more involved than a simple piston swap to convert it
for 250 or 260 hp use, depending on the engine model. (I assume they are
-A1A5?) Still might not be a bad way to go, but make sure you not just
putting a heavy 8.5:1 piston in it.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 2:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: o-540
I have an A&P friend whom I trust that has offered to help me rebuild an
o-540. He said he has two o-540's in his shop and that we could go with
the 235hp or we could change the pistons in one to make it a 250hp. He
mentioned that with the 235hp you would have the ability to use auto gas
in case you got in a bind somewhere. I've been planning on spending
around $50,000 for a new io-540. If I go this route with my friend, it
could save me probably 35-40%.
How will using an 0-540 235hp or 250hp affect my fuel efficiency over a
260hp io-540?
What kind of extra work will be required on the firewall, cowling, etc.
for using a carbureted engine instead of a non-carbureted engine?
I'm open to suggestions.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404218#404218
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | speckter(at)comcast.net |
Save 35-40%?=C2- Yes you will save but you are not comparing= .=C2- I
n the one case you have a new engine with factory warranty =C2-and in the
other you have something all together different.=C2-One is fuel injected
the other is carbureted . =C2-Not that going the mod route is bad, it is
just that the savings you anticipated =C2-is because you changed the end
result,=C2- not because of actual savings on equal engines.
Extending that out to the ridiculous you could save 60 or 90%, but again yo
u wouldn't be comparing = engines
Gary Specketer
----- Original Message -----
From: "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:23:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: o-540
m>
I have an A&P friend whom I trust that has offered to help me rebuild an o-
540. =C2-He said he has two o-540's in his shop and that we could go with
=C2-the 235hp or we could change the pistons in one to make it a 250hp.
=C2-He mentioned that with the 235hp you would have the ability to use au
to gas in case you got in a bind somewhere. =C2-I've been planning on spe
nding around $50,000 for a new io-540. =C2-If I go this route with my fri
end, it could save me probably 35-40%.
How will using an 0-540 235hp or 250hp affect my fuel efficiency over a 260
hp io-540?
What kind of extra work will be required on the firewall, cowling, etc. for
using a carbureted engine instead of a non-carbureted engine?
I'm open to suggestions.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404218#404218
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I agree mostly with what others have said. The 235HP engine is 7:1 (or 7.2:1, maybe)
compression pistons running at 2575 RPM max. The 250HP is 8.5:1 pistons
running at 2575 RPM max. The 260HP is 8.5:1 running 2700 RPM max. Some engines
have cast connecting rods and others have forged connecting rods (according to
Allen Barrett). The counterweights are also different between engines. If you
put 8.5:1 pistons in that engine, and run it at 2575 RPM, it will make roughly
250HP. This is what we have in N256H and have 1,350 hours on it. We may be
slightly outclimbed by someone with 260HP for 1-2,000 ft, but then it would equal
out, because once you pull the RPM back under 2575, the rest is equal with
8.5:1 pistons.
The Carburetor vs Fuel Injection this is just a matter of personal preference.
I would highly recommend Fuel Injection. That way you can lean much better and
can tune your injectors for smoother running and overall better leaning yet.
This shouldn't make any difference on HP.
What engine would you be getting? Is it a new engine or a used engine? If you were
expecting $50,000 on a new IO-540, then I would expect at least a 50% savings
going with a used engine, and that should include new cylinders, new accessories,
and a new fuel injection system. If it is a newly overhauled engine that
he is trying to sell you, then 35-40% is reasonable, but it should also include
new cylinders, new accessories (or overhauled) and a new or overhauled fuel
injection system.
There shouldn't be much difference on firewall, cowling or baffles with this engine,
whether with a carburetor or fuel injection system. The baffles fit slightly
different on different cases, but it's not a big deal. All parallel valve
540's should fit on the -10 just about the same. Some people have had to slightly
modify their engine mount for different cases, but you could run into that
with any engine, as I understand. I have never run into that, and have put lots
of different sub-model-number 540's on -10's.
Again, there should be nothing wrong with running either of his engines on your
plane, but the cost of the engine and what you are getting is the biggest issue.
Feel free to call me at my cell number below once you have information on
what he has and we can talk further.
The lower compression pistons will let you run low octane mogas, but if you are
planning to have that just so you can get out of a jam, it really won't help.
If you have to lug gas cans from a gas station to your plane because the airport
doesn't have gas, then you are most likely going to be hauling gas with ethanol.
If so, then why have pistons that can run 87 octane when you could just
get the 91-93 octane gas from the same station with high compression pistons?
That is the only benefit of the low compression pistons. I have an RV-9A that
I put low compression pistons in because the no-ethanol mogas that we can get
here in Florida is max 89 octane, and you need 91 or better for 8.5:1.
There is possibly another difference in the cylinders that won't allow higher compression
pistons, but I don't know for sure. If you are paying that much for
an engine (and airplane as a whole, for that matter), throw a new set of 8.5:1
jugs on and a fuel injection system. You will be glad you did.
By the way, most of this information I learned from Allen Barrett, and I hear he's
a pretty smart guy when it comes to engines.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Jul 8, 2013, at 3:23 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> I have an A&P friend whom I trust that has offered to help me rebuild an o-540.
He said he has two o-540's in his shop and that we could go with the 235hp
or we could change the pistons in one to make it a 250hp. He mentioned that
with the 235hp you would have the ability to use auto gas in case you got in
a bind somewhere. I've been planning on spending around $50,000 for a new io-540.
If I go this route with my friend, it could save me probably 35-40%.
>
> How will using an 0-540 235hp or 250hp affect my fuel efficiency over a 260hp
io-540?
>
> What kind of extra work will be required on the firewall, cowling, etc. for using
a carbureted engine instead of a non-carbureted engine?
>
> I'm open to suggestions.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404218#404218
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Some, not all 235 hp O-540s can run on 80/87 or most any grade mogas.
Most 250/260 hp (I)O-540s can run on 91+ octane mogas as they were
certified on 91/96 avgas, and have same octane requirements as the
O-360, 180hp engines with the same cylinders that have STC's for mogas,
like the Cherokee 180.
As Rhonda says, you would need to be certain that the parts used were
appropriate to the C4B% or A4D5 versions of the engine. There are a lot
of different cranks that depend on the application and balance wts for
the prop being considered. Then there are issues with ADs specific to
certain models, what size/style mounting ears the engine has. While they
can be changed, just another thing to get right from the start.If the
mechanic is experienced, has all the needed micrometers and other
measuring tools, to build a quality, new limits (not service limits)
overhaul, it can be a good deal, but there are a number of pitfalls for
someone that isn't familiar with the precise version engine you need.
The lower compression engine version of the 235 will not be as fuel
efficient, but is very durable.
On 7/8/2013 12:23 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> I have an A&P friend whom I trust that has offered to help me rebuild an o-540.
He said he has two o-540's in his shop and that we could go with the 235hp
or we could change the pistons in one to make it a 250hp. He mentioned that
with the 235hp you would have the ability to use auto gas in case you got in
a bind somewhere. I've been planning on spending around $50,000 for a new io-540.
If I go this route with my friend, it could save me probably 35-40%.
>
> How will using an 0-540 235hp or 250hp affect my fuel efficiency over a 260hp
io-540?
>
> What kind of extra work will be required on the firewall, cowling, etc. for using
a carbureted engine instead of a non-carbureted engine?
>
> I'm open to suggestions.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404218#404218
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Ran into the same issue a few months back. Just drill some small holes into the
tension arm and run the safety wire from the bolt to the hole and tie it off.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404239#404239
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
Thank you guys for your responses. I've brought up several topics. I should have
kept my question to fuel efficiency only. Comparing the 235 to the 260.
--------
Jake Hearnsberger
RV-10 Wings
Springhill, LA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404242#404242
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
You can throttle back on the 260 hp models to get the same hp and fuel burn as
the 235 hp if fuel burn is of concern. Its nice to have those extra ponies available
though for when you need them.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 8:43:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Thank you guys for your responses. I've brought up several topics. I should have
kept my question to fuel efficiency only. Comparing the 235 to the 260.
--------
Jake Hearnsberger
RV-10 Wings
Springhill, LA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404242#404242
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
While it may be "okay" to drill a hole, there is no need to. You can easily
safety directly to the arm. That is done all the time on certified aircraft.
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 2:50 PM, tsts4 wrote:
>
> Ran into the same issue a few months back. Just drill some small holes
> into the tension arm and run the safety wire from the bolt to the hole and
> tie it off.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
> RV-10 N728TT
> Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
> www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404239#404239
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Every RV'er that has ever gone with less hp or smaller displacement, always
pays the price. They have to run a higher percentage of power just to keep
up, and because of that they also end up burning more fuel. Also if you're
carbeurated you have more difficulty running lean of peak, which also means
you burn more fuel.
A friend of mine with a new Mattituck, carbed 540 has an avg cruise fuel burn between
11 and 12 gph.... whereas I burn between 9.6 and 10.2.... do the math,
I now have over 500 hours, at a 1+ gph more fuel burn, that would cost you around
$2,800 in additional fuel cost..... so over the life of the TBO, over $10,000!!!!!!!!
Don McDonald
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Actually, the 260 operated at 176 hp, or 75 percent for a 235, will get
better economy because of the higher compression.
For example, a Mooney 201 with 200 hp Lycoming will out run a Mooney 231
with Continental turbocharged 210 hp engine below 8000 ft, simply because
the turbo isn't producing any more power there than the normally aspirated
engine. The Lyc is 8.7 to 1 while the Cont is 7 to 1. Lyc operates at
atmospheric pressure, Cont at 39 inches to make up for the lower
compression. The Lyc burns 11 gph in cruise ROP, the Cont burns 12-13 at
same power. The 231 doesn't shine until it gets above 10,000 ft where it
can produce more power than the normally aspirated 201. Their airframes are
pretty identical outside powerplant differences.
Another example...Bonanza with IO-470 260hp engine will burn more fuel on
all but very short flights than one with STC'd IO-550 310 hp, especially if
they both operate at the same indicated airspeed, just because the bigger
engine breathes more efficiently and can get up to altitude faster.
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 7:03 PM, wrote:
> You can throttle back on the 260 hp models to get the same hp and fuel
> burn as the 235 hp if fuel burn is of concern. Its nice to have those
> extra ponies available though for when you need them.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com>
> *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent: *Monday, July 8, 2013 8:43:56 PM
> *Subject: *RV10-List: Re: o-540
>
>
> jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com>
>
> Thank you guys for your responses. I've brought up several topics. I
> should have kept my question to fuel efficiency only. Comparing the 235 to
> the 260.
>
> --------
> Jake Hearnsberger
> RV-10 Wings
> Springhill, LA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p= &=
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Performance Engines out of La Verne, CA built my IO-540. With 10:1
compression and 1 Lightspeed they rated it at 310 HP. With 799 hours on it I
have put 8003 gallons of 100LL in, just about exactly 10 GPH average. (I'm
not going to tell my wife how much 8K gallons of gas costs)
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Every RV'er that has ever gone with less hp or smaller displacement, always
pays the price. They have to run a higher percentage of power just to keep
up, and because of that they also end up burning more fuel. Also if you're
carbeurated you have more difficulty running lean of peak, which also means
you burn more fuel.
A friend of mine with a new Mattituck, carbed 540 has an avg cruise fuel
burn between 11 and 12 gph.... whereas I burn between 9.6 and 10.2.... do
the math, I now have over 500 hours, at a 1+ gph more fuel burn, that would
cost you around $2,800 in additional fuel cost..... so over the life of the
TBO, over $10,000!!!!!!!!
Don McDonald
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandra & Rick" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
Hi all, I posted an ad at
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=101646 selling my TT
servos.
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Choosing the switches |
Thank you all for your opinions, I=99m still undecided but I think
I=99ll go for the toggles.
Best
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Since Performance Engines has been brought up in this thread . . . Many
have had great experiences with them, but the Lancair community has had
some pretty serious safety issues come up. I personally have no facts, so
I will not judge, but my opinion is that it should be disclosed that past
customers have brought to light some issues with Continental engines.
Below is a snippet from the Lancair Yahoo group from 2010 and more info can
be found on LML (Lancair Mailing List).
"There's been a lot of talk lately on other sites regarding the overhauled
engines delivered by Performance Engines of La Vern, CA. There have been
several total failures lately and a few others have had theirs torn down fo
r
inspection only to find unserviceable or out of tolerance parts installed.
In
one case, the engine case was cracked. This is causing many owners a lot of
money and putting their lives at risk. The FAA is currently paying very
close
attention to PE."
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 10:26 PM, Albert Gardner wrot
e:
> Performance Engines out of La Verne, CA built my IO-540. With 10:1
> compression and 1 Lightspeed they rated it at 310 HP. With 799 hours on i
t
> I have put 8003 gallons of 100LL in, just about exactly 10 GPH average.
> (I=92m not going to tell my wife how much 8K gallons of gas costs)****
>
> Albert Gardner****
>
> N991RV****
>
> Yuma, AZ****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Don McDonald
> *Sent:* Monday, July 08, 2013 8:27 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540****
>
> ** **
>
> Every RV'er that has ever gone with less hp or smaller displacement,
> always pays the price. They have to run a higher percentage of power just
> to keep up, and because of that they also end up burning more fuel. Also
if
> you're carbeurated you have more difficulty running lean of peak, which
> also means you burn more fuel.
> A friend of mine with a new Mattituck, carbed 540 has an avg cruise fuel
> burn between 11 and 12 gph.... whereas I burn between 9.6 and 10.2.... do
> the math, I now have over 500 hours, at a 1+ gph more fuel burn, that wou
ld
> cost you around $2,800 in additional fuel cost..... so over the life of t
he
> TBO, over $10,000!!!!!!!!
> Don McDonald****
>
> ** **
> ------------------------------
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
*Aircrafters*
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville CA, 95076
KWVI
831-722-9141
www.AircraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Hard to go wrong with Barrett unless you don't like to be pushed back in yo
ur seat when you advance the throttle. :).
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Farrell
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Since Performance Engines has been brought up in this thread . . . Many ha
ve had great experiences with them, but the Lancair community has had some
pretty serious safety issues come up. I personally have no facts, so I wil
l not judge, but my opinion is that it should be disclosed that past custom
ers have brought to light some issues with Continental engines. Below is a
snippet from the Lancair Yahoo group from 2010 and more info can be found
on LML (Lancair Mailing List).
"There's been a lot of talk lately on other sites regarding the overhauled
engines delivered by Performance Engines of La Vern, CA. There have been
several total failures lately and a few others have had theirs torn down fo
r
inspection only to find unserviceable or out of tolerance parts installed.
In
one case, the engine case was cracked. This is causing many owners a lot of
money and putting their lives at risk. The FAA is currently paying very clo
se
attention to PE."
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 10:26 PM, Albert Gardner > wrote:
Performance Engines out of La Verne, CA built my IO-540. With 10:1 compress
ion and 1 Lightspeed they rated it at 310 HP. With 799 hours on it I have p
ut 8003 gallons of 100LL in, just about exactly 10 GPH average. (I'm not go
ing to tell my wife how much 8K gallons of gas costs)
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Every RV'er that has ever gone with less hp or smaller displacement, always
pays the price. They have to run a higher percentage of power just to keep
up, and because of that they also end up burning more fuel. Also if you're
carbeurated you have more difficulty running lean of peak, which also mean
s you burn more fuel.
A friend of mine with a new Mattituck, carbed 540 has an avg cruise fuel bu
rn between 11 and 12 gph.... whereas I burn between 9.6 and 10.2.... do the
math, I now have over 500 hours, at a 1+ gph more fuel burn, that would co
st you around $2,800 in additional fuel cost..... so over the life of the T
BO, over $10,000!!!!!!!!
Don McDonald
________________________________
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Aircrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville CA, 95076
KWVI
831-722-9141
www.AircraftersLLC.com<http://www.AircraftersLLC.com>
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I concur. I wish they were still selling new kits when I bought mine. I di
d help facilitate getting a neighbor's engine overhauled by Barrett. Qualit
y was second to none. You can't beat the support both Rhonda and Alan have g
iven the RV-10 community.
They've been known to hang out at the RV-10 hq at OSH. Given folks their pe
rsonal cell numbers and taking calls during off hours. Help folks when ther
e is no money in it for them. Hang out here and on VAF. Generally all arou
nd good people that do their best to support the experimental community. Yo
u can't ask for better support.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 9, 2013, at 1:31 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
Hard to go wrong with Barrett unless you don=99t like to be pushed bac
k in your seat when you advance the throttle. J.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Farrell
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Since Performance Engines has been brought up in this thread . . . Many hav
e had great experiences with them, but the Lancair community has had some pr
etty serious safety issues come up. I personally have no facts, so I will n
ot judge, but my opinion is that it should be disclosed that past customers h
ave brought to light some issues with Continental engines. Below is a snipp
et from the Lancair Yahoo group from 2010 and more info can be found on LML (
Lancair Mailing List).
"There's been a lot of talk lately on other sites regarding the overhauled
engines delivered by Performance Engines of La Vern, CA. There have been
several total failures lately and a few others have had theirs torn down for
inspection only to find unserviceable or out of tolerance parts installed. I
n
one case, the engine case was cracked. This is causing many owners a lot of
money and putting their lives at risk. The FAA is currently paying very clos
e
attention to PE."
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 10:26 PM, Albert Gardner wrot
e:
Performance Engines out of La Verne, CA built my IO-540. With 10:1 compressi
on and 1 Lightspeed they rated it at 310 HP. With 799 hours on it I have put
8003 gallons of 100LL in, just about exactly 10 GPH average. (I=99m n
ot going to tell my wife how much 8K gallons of gas costs)
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Every RV'er that has ever gone with less hp or smaller displacement, always p
ays the price. They have to run a higher percentage of power just to keep up
, and because of that they also end up burning more fuel. Also if you're car
beurated you have more difficulty running lean of peak, which also means you
burn more fuel.
A friend of mine with a new Mattituck, carbed 540 has an avg cruise fuel bur
n between 11 and 12 gph.... whereas I burn between 9.6 and 10.2.... do the m
ath, I now have over 500 hours, at a 1+ gph more fuel burn, that would cost y
ou around $2,800 in additional fuel cost..... so over the life of the TBO, o
ver $10,000!!!!!!!!
Don McDonald
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Aircrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville CA, 95076
KWVI
831-722-9141
www.AircraftersLLC.com
============== V10-List Email Forum - > :p> /o:p
> tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =====
========= bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - :p> tp://forums
.matronics.com ============== bsp; - List Contr
ibution Web Site - e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. butio
n">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ============
=
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
r>
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
We hope to see you all at the RV gathering hosted by the beer fairy on
Monday night at Osh. We'll be there with bells on!
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 12:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
I concur. I wish they were still selling new kits when I bought mine.
I did help facilitate getting a neighbor's engine overhauled by Barrett.
Quality was second to none. You can't beat the support both Rhonda and
Alan have given the RV-10 community.
They've been known to hang out at the RV-10 hq at OSH. Given folks
their personal cell numbers and taking calls during off hours. Help
folks when there is no money in it for them. Hang out here and on VAF.
Generally all around good people that do their best to support the
experimental community. You can't ask for better support.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 9, 2013, at 1:31 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
Hard to go wrong with Barrett unless you don't like to be pushed back in
your seat when you advance the throttle. :-).
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Farrell
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Since Performance Engines has been brought up in this thread . . . Many
have had great experiences with them, but the Lancair community has had
some pretty serious safety issues come up. I personally have no facts,
so I will not judge, but my opinion is that it should be disclosed that
past customers have brought to light some issues with Continental
engines. Below is a snippet from the Lancair Yahoo group from 2010 and
more info can be found on LML (Lancair Mailing List).
"There's been a lot of talk lately on other sites regarding the
overhauled
engines delivered by Performance Engines of La Vern, CA. There have been
several total failures lately and a few others have had theirs torn down
for
inspection only to find unserviceable or out of tolerance parts
installed. In
one case, the engine case was cracked. This is causing many owners a lot
of
money and putting their lives at risk. The FAA is currently paying very
close
attention to PE."
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 10:26 PM, Albert Gardner
wrote:
Performance Engines out of La Verne, CA built my IO-540. With
10:1 compression and 1 Lightspeed they rated it at 310 HP. With 799
hours on it I have put 8003 gallons of 100LL in, just about exactly 10
GPH average. (I'm not going to tell my wife how much 8K gallons of gas
costs)
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 8:27 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Every RV'er that has ever gone with less hp or smaller displacement,
always pays the price. They have to run a higher percentage of power
just to keep up, and because of that they also end up burning more fuel.
Also if you're carbeurated you have more difficulty running lean of
peak, which also means you burn more fuel.
A friend of mine with a new Mattituck, carbed 540 has an avg cruise fuel
burn between 11 and 12 gph.... whereas I burn between 9.6 and 10.2....
do the math, I now have over 500 hours, at a 1+ gph more fuel burn, that
would cost you around $2,800 in additional fuel cost..... so over the
life of the TBO, over $10,000!!!!!!!!
Don McDonald
________________________________
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Aircrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville CA, 95076
KWVI
831-722-9141
www.AircraftersLLC.com
============== V10-List Email Forum - > :p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
============== bsp; - MATRONICS WEB
FORUMS - :p>
tp://forums.matronics.com ==============
bsp; - List Contribution Web
Site - e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==============
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
r>
=========
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=========
cs.com
=========
matronics.com/contribution
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Blocking heater vent outlets |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
My rear heater leaks--the door is bent, so even when it's closed, it still
lets a decent amount of hot air through. As a temporary fix, does anyone
see a problem with using aluminum tape to block the air outlets, by the
rear passenger feet? I figure there will be no air flow, so no issue.
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for some tools |
| From: | "RichGurr" <carriageco(at)sbcglobal.net> |
My RV 10 is set for delivery in August. Im getting the shop in order and I would
like to buy some used tools for the build. If you are tired of dust collecting
on those tools you used for your build and you would like to get rid of them,
send me a PM with your contact info, what you have to sell, or both.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404337#404337
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blocking heater vent outlets |
Block the inlet in the engine compartment.
Dave Leikam
On Jul 9, 2013, at 4:32 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> My rear heater leaks--the door is bent, so even when it's closed, it
still lets a decent amount of hot air through. As a temporary fix, does
anyone see a problem with using aluminum tape to block the air outlets,
by the rear passenger feet? I figure there will be no air flow, so no
issue. Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
... and they love to put in Lightspeed Ignitions. Or at least they loved m
ine. :)
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 12:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Hard to go wrong with Barrett unless you don't like to be pushed back in yo
ur seat when you advance the throttle. :).
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Farrell
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Since Performance Engines has been brought up in this thread . . . Many ha
ve had great experiences with them, but the Lancair community has had some
pretty serious safety issues come up. I personally have no facts, so I wil
l not judge, but my opinion is that it should be disclosed that past custom
ers have brought to light some issues with Continental engines. Below is a
snippet from the Lancair Yahoo group from 2010 and more info can be found
on LML (Lancair Mailing List).
"There's been a lot of talk lately on other sites regarding the overhauled
engines delivered by Performance Engines of La Vern, CA. There have been
several total failures lately and a few others have had theirs torn down fo
r
inspection only to find unserviceable or out of tolerance parts installed.
In
one case, the engine case was cracked. This is causing many owners a lot of
money and putting their lives at risk. The FAA is currently paying very clo
se
attention to PE."
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 10:26 PM, Albert Gardner > wrote:
Performance Engines out of La Verne, CA built my IO-540. With 10:1 compress
ion and 1 Lightspeed they rated it at 310 HP. With 799 hours on it I have p
ut 8003 gallons of 100LL in, just about exactly 10 GPH average. (I'm not go
ing to tell my wife how much 8K gallons of gas costs)
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Every RV'er that has ever gone with less hp or smaller displacement, always
pays the price. They have to run a higher percentage of power just to keep
up, and because of that they also end up burning more fuel. Also if you're
carbeurated you have more difficulty running lean of peak, which also mean
s you burn more fuel.
A friend of mine with a new Mattituck, carbed 540 has an avg cruise fuel bu
rn between 11 and 12 gph.... whereas I burn between 9.6 and 10.2.... do the
math, I now have over 500 hours, at a 1+ gph more fuel burn, that would co
st you around $2,800 in additional fuel cost..... so over the life of the T
BO, over $10,000!!!!!!!!
Don McDonald
________________________________
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Aircrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville CA, 95076
KWVI
831-722-9141
www.AircraftersLLC.com<http://www.AircraftersLLC.com>
=============
V10-List Email Forum -
>
:p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:p>
tp://forums.matronics.com
=============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>
r>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
That's it....you owe me a beer!
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Sausen
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 1:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: o-540
... and they love to put in Lightspeed Ignitions. Or at least they
loved mine. :)
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 12:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Hard to go wrong with Barrett unless you don't like to be pushed back in
your seat when you advance the throttle. :-).
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Farrell
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Since Performance Engines has been brought up in this thread . . . Many
have had great experiences with them, but the Lancair community has had
some pretty serious safety issues come up. I personally have no facts,
so I will not judge, but my opinion is that it should be disclosed that
past customers have brought to light some issues with Continental
engines. Below is a snippet from the Lancair Yahoo group from 2010 and
more info can be found on LML (Lancair Mailing List).
"There's been a lot of talk lately on other sites regarding the
overhauled
engines delivered by Performance Engines of La Vern, CA. There have been
several total failures lately and a few others have had theirs torn down
for
inspection only to find unserviceable or out of tolerance parts
installed. In
one case, the engine case was cracked. This is causing many owners a lot
of
money and putting their lives at risk. The FAA is currently paying very
close
attention to PE."
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 10:26 PM, Albert Gardner
wrote:
Performance Engines out of La Verne, CA built my IO-540. With
10:1 compression and 1 Lightspeed they rated it at 310 HP. With 799
hours on it I have put 8003 gallons of 100LL in, just about exactly 10
GPH average. (I'm not going to tell my wife how much 8K gallons of gas
costs)
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 8:27 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: o-540
Every RV'er that has ever gone with less hp or smaller displacement,
always pays the price. They have to run a higher percentage of power
just to keep up, and because of that they also end up burning more fuel.
Also if you're carbeurated you have more difficulty running lean of
peak, which also means you burn more fuel.
A friend of mine with a new Mattituck, carbed 540 has an avg cruise fuel
burn between 11 and 12 gph.... whereas I burn between 9.6 and 10.2....
do the math, I now have over 500 hours, at a 1+ gph more fuel burn, that
would cost you around $2,800 in additional fuel cost..... so over the
life of the TBO, over $10,000!!!!!!!!
Don McDonald
________________________________
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Aircrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville CA, 95076
KWVI
831-722-9141
www.AircraftersLLC.com
=============
V10-List Email Forum -
>
:p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:p>
tp://forums.matronics.com
=============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
________________________________
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
r>
=============
V10-List Email Forum -
>
:p>
/o:p>
tor?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:p>
tp://forums.matronics.com
=============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
e> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Things needed for the build |
| From: | "RichGurr" <carriageco(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Just want to say thanks. I have a good list put together based on all your input.
It was very helpful and informative.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404406#404406
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
And a keyboard! ;-0
On 7/10/2013 11:26 AM, Rhonda Bewley wrote:
>
> That's it....you owe me a beer!
>
> **Rhonda Barrett-Bewley**
>
> //Barrett Precision Engines//
>
> 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>
> Tulsa, OK 74115
>
> (918) 835-1089 phone
>
> (918) 835-1754 fax
>
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Sausen
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 10, 2013 1:23 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: o-540
>
> ... and they love to put in Lightspeed Ignitions. Or at least they
> loved mine. :)
>
> Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Filters in the wing roots or under seats? |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
I'm starting to lay out my fuel system, and I need to decide where I'm
going to place my fuel filter(s).
So far, my fuel system consists of an EFII boost pump and a Andair valve.
The EFII pump came with two fuel filters (one to install and a spare), but
I'm thinking that it might be nice to run two fuel filters. First, it gives
me redundancy, and second, it should be easier to change them out if they
aren't buried in the tunnel.
The con would be that I would need to drain the tank/tanks before changing
the filter as there wouldn't be a valve in between the filter and tank. But
even this might be a good thing as it would probably be a good idea to
remove the tank drains to fully check for contaminants from time to time.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this?
How about pictures of where people have mounted their filters?
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filters in the wing roots or under seats? |
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
I installed two filters in my -10. One in each wing root. None in the tun
nel. Checking and Cleaning the filter had been very easy via the wing root
access. I used the Andair gas collator style filter and since the fuel ha
s to go up a bit after leaving the tank pick up I have not had to drain the t
anks for inspection, just run them down to about 10 gallons a side. I would
this this again no question.
I'll see if I can find some pics on my picsa web album.
Bob Newman.
TCW tech.
N541RV
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 11, 2013, at 7:50 AM, Ed Kranz wrote:
> I'm starting to lay out my fuel system, and I need to decide where I'm goi
ng to place my fuel filter(s).
>
> So far, my fuel system consists of an EFII boost pump and a Andair valve. T
he EFII pump came with two fuel filters (one to install and a spare), but I'
m thinking that it might be nice to run two fuel filters. First, it gives me
redundancy, and second, it should be easier to change them out if they aren
't buried in the tunnel.
>
> The con would be that I would need to drain the tank/tanks before changing
the filter as there wouldn't be a valve in between the filter and tank. But
even this might be a good thing as it would probably be a good idea to remo
ve the tank drains to fully check for contaminants from time to time.
>
> Does anyone have any thoughts about this?
>
> How about pictures of where people have mounted their filters?
>
> Ed
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filters in the wing roots or under seats? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I installed a small fuel filter in each wing root. They have AN-6 fittings on each
end and have stainless filters (I think mine are 40 micron). I only have one
photo and it was taken for a different reason, but I'll post it. I'll also
post a web photo of the filter. Here is a link to where I bought them:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230101/overview/
It is not a problem to get them out. I mounted them at a 45 angle. The tank line
first goes up almost to the skin, and turns to attach on the top of the filter.
The bottom of the filter is connected straight to the line from Van's plans.
Even with full tanks, there is no leakage (maybe if I did it with absolutely
full tanks it might). The only leakage is the tiny amount that is actually inside
the filter. I simply drop down the front half on the lower wing root skin
and put a catch basin underneath to catch the small bit of fuel.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404533#404533
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/sum_230101_w_ml_120.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingroot_139.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | USB Charger Adapter |
I installed a cigarette lighter outlet (now called courtesy outlet in my car
owners manual) but all we use it for is to plug in an adapter with USB
outlets in it. I'm thinking of replacing it with some USB ports mounted on
the panel. I haven't found a device that mounts directly to the panel like
the cig lighter outlet did but did find a 4 USB port adapter. Has anyone
else run across what I'm looking for? I'm thinking 4 ports because now I
plug in the Stratus, iPad, cell phone or music player. Here is a pic of the
4 port I found on the internet.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
BTW, landed at Leadville (KLXV) 9927', DA 12,600' yesterday. It as well as
Aspen were interesting landings. Aspen especially. Lightly loaded, 1/3 fuel,
just me and about 77 temp as I recall, plane preformed well. Wonder how it
would have been a gross?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
I have 2 subpanel mounted lighter outlets. I use 1 of them with a charger,
a Dual Scosche brand charger, to run two panel mount USB jacks (you
can get those from SteinAir), for charging the ipad and phone.
My advice is....
A) Don't buy that 4-port 1.
B) Buy something name brand. You don't want some cheap chinese knockoff
burning up your plane...I've bought a bunch of chinese USB chargers and
had high failure rates. So I stick with Scosche brand. They've
never went
bad on me at least.
C) Buy chargers specifically that are capable of 2.1A charging, so that you
can charge an iPad. Many are 500mA, 700mA, or 1A. The 1A will
do a phone fine, but not an iPad. I have a great Scosche that does 1A
and 2.1A. I just bought (before OSH) a new mini model scosche that
does dual 2.1A.
D) Find a way to make the connection snug so the thing doesn't slip
out easily...especially if you buy a larger one. The new Mini ones
I bought are going to go into the plane, since they're tiny and
light and low profile.
But beyond that, yeah, USB charging is great. If you really need 4
ports, I'd say do 2 lighter outlets.....because you'll never find a
good 4-port charger that can do 2.1A...at least not yet this year.
I also have 1A chargers in the rear seat, one for each passenger.
The lighter outlets are under the armwrests. They are part of the
Belkin bluetooth adapters that the kids use. That gives us
4 USB ports in the plane to charge with, and I still have the
ability to add 2 more up front if I need, since I have an available
lighter outlet.
Tim
On 7/12/2013 2:50 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> I installed a cigarette lighter outlet (now called courtesy outlet in my car
> owners manual) but all we use it for is to plug in an adapter with USB
> outlets in it. I'm thinking of replacing it with some USB ports mounted on
> the panel. I haven't found a device that mounts directly to the panel like
> the cig lighter outlet did but did find a 4 USB port adapter. Has anyone
> else run across what I'm looking for? I'm thinking 4 ports because now I
> plug in the Stratus, iPad, cell phone or music player. Here is a pic of the
> 4 port I found on the internet.
>
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> BTW, landed at Leadville (KLXV) 9927', DA 12,600' yesterday. It as well as
> Aspen were interesting landings. Aspen especially. Lightly loaded, 1/3 fuel,
> just me and about 77 temp as I recall, plane preformed well. Wonder how it
> would have been a gross?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
There are lots of USB panel mount adapters out there (Google or Bing usb
panel mount) but you still need to drop the 12V down to the nominal 5V.
Your 4-port adapter is a really good solution ..... and it's portable.
Linn
On 7/12/2013 3:50 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> I installed a cigarette lighter outlet (now called courtesy outlet in my car
> owners manual) but all we use it for is to plug in an adapter with USB
> outlets in it. I'm thinking of replacing it with some USB ports mounted on
> the panel. I haven't found a device that mounts directly to the panel like
> the cig lighter outlet did but did find a 4 USB port adapter. Has anyone
> else run across what I'm looking for? I'm thinking 4 ports because now I
> plug in the Stratus, iPad, cell phone or music player. Here is a pic of the
> 4 port I found on the internet.
>
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> BTW, landed at Leadville (KLXV) 9927', DA 12,600' yesterday. It as well as
> Aspen were interesting landings. Aspen especially. Lightly loaded, 1/3 fuel,
> just me and about 77 temp as I recall, plane preformed well. Wonder how it
> would have been a gross?
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
Aspen topic,
I did Aspen a couple weeks ago in my RV10 at 2600 lbs and 10700 DA. It
performed well. I did the VFR departure of 360 degree heading at threshold
for at least two miles then turned left early per tower''s request and
cleared the mountains to the SE. I always underestimate the airplane ,
which is a good thing I guess. Short takeoff in calm winds but helps with a
2% slope down!
-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Gardner
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 1:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: USB Charger Adapter
I installed a cigarette lighter outlet (now called courtesy outlet in my car
owners manual) but all we use it for is to plug in an adapter with USB
outlets in it. I'm thinking of replacing it with some USB ports mounted on
the panel. I haven't found a device that mounts directly to the panel like
the cig lighter outlet did but did find a 4 USB port adapter. Has anyone
else run across what I'm looking for? I'm thinking 4 ports because now I
plug in the Stratus, iPad, cell phone or music player. Here is a pic of the
4 port I found on the internet.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
BTW, landed at Leadville (KLXV) 9927', DA 12,600' yesterday. It as well as
Aspen were interesting landings. Aspen especially. Lightly loaded, 1/3 fuel,
just me and about 77 temp as I recall, plane preformed well. Wonder how it
would have been a gross?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | USB Charger Adapter |
I agree with Tim on all comments. I have however been very pleased with these adapters
I picked up on eBay. I think I have purchased about 15 so far. They are
ultra-low profile and are very snug in the receptacle. They charge iPhone &iPads.
NOTE" some of these two socket chargers are "sided" in that one side will
charge 2.1A and the other will only charge 1A.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281027829654?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I also liked my 12V Honda outlet with a spring loaded square cover so much I ordered
them from the dealership and stuck them in a number of places in the -10
including the back bulkhead in case I had some device I wanted charging back
there. I have yet to use that plug but the others have worked out as planned.
Sorry no photos.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: USB Charger Adapter
I have 2 subpanel mounted lighter outlets. I use 1 of them with a charger, a Dual
Scosche brand charger, to run two panel mount USB jacks (you can get those
from SteinAir), for charging the ipad and phone.
My advice is....
A) Don't buy that 4-port 1.
B) Buy something name brand. You don't want some cheap chinese knockoff
burning up your plane...I've bought a bunch of chinese USB chargers and
had high failure rates. So I stick with Scosche brand. They've never went
bad on me at least.
C) Buy chargers specifically that are capable of 2.1A charging, so that you
can charge an iPad. Many are 500mA, 700mA, or 1A. The 1A will
do a phone fine, but not an iPad. I have a great Scosche that does 1A
and 2.1A. I just bought (before OSH) a new mini model scosche that
does dual 2.1A.
D) Find a way to make the connection snug so the thing doesn't slip
out easily...especially if you buy a larger one. The new Mini ones
I bought are going to go into the plane, since they're tiny and
light and low profile.
But beyond that, yeah, USB charging is great. If you really need 4 ports, I'd
say do 2 lighter outlets.....because you'll never find a good 4-port charger that
can do 2.1A...at least not yet this year.
I also have 1A chargers in the rear seat, one for each passenger.
The lighter outlets are under the armwrests. They are part of the Belkin bluetooth
adapters that the kids use. That gives us
4 USB ports in the plane to charge with, and I still have the ability to add 2
more up front if I need, since I have an available lighter outlet.
Tim
On 7/12/2013 2:50 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> I installed a cigarette lighter outlet (now called courtesy outlet in my car
> owners manual) but all we use it for is to plug in an adapter with USB
> outlets in it. I'm thinking of replacing it with some USB ports
> mounted on the panel. I haven't found a device that mounts directly to
> the panel like the cig lighter outlet did but did find a 4 USB port
> adapter. Has anyone else run across what I'm looking for? I'm thinking
> 4 ports because now I plug in the Stratus, iPad, cell phone or music
> player. Here is a pic of the
> 4 port I found on the internet.
>
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> BTW, landed at Leadville (KLXV) 9927', DA 12,600' yesterday. It as
> well as Aspen were interesting landings. Aspen especially. Lightly
> loaded, 1/3 fuel, just me and about 77 temp as I recall, plane
> preformed well. Wonder how it would have been a gross?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
Stein is now making panel mount usb outlets... I believe mine are somewhere here
in this very expensive box of goodies.
Jeff Carpeter
40304
On Jul 12, 2013, at 12:50 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> I installed a cigarette lighter outlet (now called courtesy outlet in my car
> owners manual) but all we use it for is to plug in an adapter with USB
> outlets in it. I'm thinking of replacing it with some USB ports mounted on
> the panel. I haven't found a device that mounts directly to the panel like
> the cig lighter outlet did but did find a 4 USB port adapter. Has anyone
> else run across what I'm looking for? I'm thinking 4 ports because now I
> plug in the Stratus, iPad, cell phone or music player. Here is a pic of the
> 4 port I found on the internet.
>
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> BTW, landed at Leadville (KLXV) 9927', DA 12,600' yesterday. It as well as
> Aspen were interesting landings. Aspen especially. Lightly loaded, 1/3 fuel,
> just me and about 77 temp as I recall, plane preformed well. Wonder how it
> would have been a gross?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
Here are a couple of pics
On Jul 12, 2013, at 12:50 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> I installed a cigarette lighter outlet (now called courtesy outlet in
my car
> owners manual) but all we use it for is to plug in an adapter
with USB
> outlets in it. I'm thinking of replacing it with some USB ports
mounted on
> the panel. I haven't found a device that mounts directly to the panel
like
> the cig lighter outlet did but did find a 4 USB port adapter. Has
anyone
> else run across what I'm looking for? I'm thinking 4 ports because now
I
> plug in the Stratus, iPad, cell phone or music player. Here is a pic
of the
> 4 port I found on the internet.
>
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> BTW, landed at Leadville (KLXV) 9927', DA 12,600' yesterday. It as
well as
> Aspen were interesting landings. Aspen especially. Lightly loaded, 1/3
fuel,
> just me and about 77 temp as I recall, plane preformed well. Wonder
how it
> would have been a gross?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | USB Charger Adapter |
His site describes this as 1.5A, which I do not think is enough to charge an
iPad.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: USB Charger Adapter
Here are a couple of pics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
with a 2a fuse, as seen in the picture, I guarantee it would not work on an
Ipad.
-----Original Message-----
From: William Greenley
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: USB Charger Adapter
His site describes this as 1.5A, which I do not think is enough to charge an
iPad.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: USB Charger Adapter
Here are a couple of pics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | USB Charger Adapter |
They are 2A units, but experience and lots of testing has shown us that the
real world usable output of these things is closer to 1.6-1.8 instead of 2.1
when plugged into a running iPad. That means that if you have a regular
iPad up and running something like Foreflight along with Bluetooth, gps and
music going then this will just keep a float on it and not charge
aggressively...but if you shut off the intensive apps or it's resting then
it charges it just fine. It'll also charge an iPad mini in all conditions
(apps running or not). We spent a whole lot of time testing these out on
the bench and in the planes and I wouldn't sell something based on just
magazine info...you can find plenty of those out there that in fact don't
perform in the real world as advertised. Anyway, it's the best that can
easily be done in a reasonable price point and will cover a large majority
of what it's intended to do; so as usual I'd rather under promise and over
deliver instead of the other way around.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
President - SteinAir, Inc.
651-460-6955
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Greenley
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 4:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: USB Charger Adapter
His site describes this as 1.5A, which I do not think is enough to charge an
iPad.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: USB Charger Adapter
Here are a couple of pics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wwc4(at)njit.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
| From: | "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com> |
I'm using a unit from Blue Sea.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/1016/Dual_USB_Charger_Socket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404579#404579
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/usb_2_980.png
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "palark" <palark(at)tpg.com.au> |
Patrick,
I am very interested in where you source your alodine and deoxidine. I am in Loxton
SA.
Roger
palark(at)tpg.com.au
[quote="rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com"]Bill,
I keep the alodine solution in a 20 litre container and top up the crystal concentration
when I notice the dip time is starting to get longer to achieve the
same level of coating.
I always prepare the parts by scrubbing them with a maroon 3M Scotchbrite pad in
a solution of 'Deoxidine' (a Henkel product), just scrub enough to get the shine
off the aluminium, then fresh water rinse and air dry before dipping in the
alodine solution.
I use a storage water heater overflow tray, which is about 1.5" deep & about 4'
in diameter to dip the large parts. The advantage of this tray is that it has
a plastic ball valve plumbed into the tray and allows me to easily decant the
solution back into the storage container for reuse. I use black plastic irrigation
fittings and pipe which attach to the ball valve. Can send you pictures.
For longer, slender parts, I've made up a long bath using 6" diameter PVC sewer
pipe with caps each end and another plastic ball valve fitted as described above.
I've cut the top 2" off the entire length of the pipe to allow you to sit the pipe
horizontally on an old pallet. Great for long parts and gives a solution depth
of about 4".
Please ensure that you read the Material Safety Data Sheet for the alodine more
so, as its toxic stuff.
I've seen guys also use wheelie bins as dip baths and lowering parts in with tie
wire and suspending them from some dowel placed across the bin opening. Doing
this means you'll need a lot of solution and the bin is very heavy to move.
I get away with 20 litres, which is stored when not required.
Yell out if you need any more info. Google the Henkel site for technical advice.
Warm regards from Oz.
Patrick
Adelaide, South Australia
On 08/02/2013, at 3:15 AM, "Billy Britton" wrote:
> A while back I recall a thread about alodine and where to get it. This
particular post I remember was about a powder form. I've searched aircraft
spruce and cannot find a powder form of alodine. Can anybody tell me where
I might find it? Also, Ive never done the alodine before. What prep is required
of the parts before using the alodine?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
> >
> >
> > ==================================
> > ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> > ==================================
> > cs.com
> > ==================================
> > matronics.com/contribution
> > ==================================
> >
> >
>
> [b]
--------
Roger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404588#404588
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: USB Charger Adapter |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Albert,
Here is a product on Amazon that I have installed in my plane. It has 2 USBs and
it is a very clean installation. It does gradually charge the ipad in flight
with the display set on bright.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082CXEI8/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
On Jul 12, 2013, at 3:50 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> I installed a cigarette lighter outlet (now called courtesy outlet in my car
> owners manual) but all we use it for is to plug in an adapter with USB
> outlets in it. I'm thinking of replacing it with some USB ports mounted on
> the panel. I haven't found a device that mounts directly to the panel like
> the cig lighter outlet did but did find a 4 USB port adapter. Has anyone
> else run across what I'm looking for? I'm thinking 4 ports because now I
> plug in the Stratus, iPad, cell phone or music player. Here is a pic of the
> 4 port I found on the internet.
>
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> BTW, landed at Leadville (KLXV) 9927', DA 12,600' yesterday. It as well as
> Aspen were interesting landings. Aspen especially. Lightly loaded, 1/3 fuel,
> just me and about 77 temp as I recall, plane preformed well. Wonder how it
> would have been a gross?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | speckter(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filters in the wing roots or under seats? |
If you put a access panel in your tunnel then it is no big deal to remove t
he filter.=C2- You will find that the filter doesn't need cleaning after
the first year.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Kranz" <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 8:50:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Filters in the wing roots or under seats?
I'm starting to lay out my fuel system, and I need to decide where I'm goin
g to place my fuel filter(s).
So far, my fuel system consists of an EFII boost pump and a Andair valve. T
he EFII pump came with two fuel filters (one to install and a spare), but I
'm thinking that it might be nice to run two fuel filters. First, it gives
me redundancy, and second, it should be easier to change them out if they a
ren't buried in the tunnel.
The con would be that I would need to drain the tank/tanks before changing
the filter as there wouldn't be a valve in between the filter and tank. But
even this might be a good thing as it would probably be a good idea to rem
ove the tank drains to fully check for contaminants from time to time.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this?
How about pictures of where people have mounted their filters?
Ed
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ipad Mini PIREPs ? |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I like the form factor of the mini as an 'in-cockpit' device, I was about
to buy one, But a conversation I had with a pilot at the airport said he
was extremely disappointed with it's screen readability. In his eyes the
screen wasn't nearly bright enough for in-cockpit use. I haven't compared
the NIT rating of each,
Anybody have any real experience they'd like to share?
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | USB Charger Adapter |
I see this similar to what Deems just asked in another thread, but
I=99ll reply here. I find I like the mini as much or more than
the big one because it=99s literally half the weight, but about
2/3 the screen sizeand surprisingly almost exactly the
size/shape of a standard plate. Also, arguments about which one is more
readable is a bit of a dubious discussion because to be blunt, all of
them (apple or droids) pretty much suck in direct sunlight no matter
which screen protector you use (though there are some that are FAR
superior to others for reflectivity). In something like an RV10, both
of them seem pretty usable to me depending on the various lighting
conditions. I just find the smaller one easier to stow, to hold, to
use, and all around easier to travel with regarding small planes. That
said, I love the larger one for normal daily use (emails, videos,
etc..). Both are good units, just seems that the smaller one is the one
I gravitate to in the actual planes and I=99ve found more and more
pilots going the same way. If I give them both to someone to use with
the same apps on them and they spend time with both, most will come back
liking the smaller one in the smaller planes that we normally fly (yes
the RV10 is larger, but still a =9Csmall=9D plane).
I would get the form factor you like and not worry too terribly much
about nits, resolution, etc.. As I said, they ALL are poor in direct
sunlight and none of them are going to look like a 696 (so if you are
expecting them to look like that in the sun based on some pictures in a
magazine ad you WILL be disappointed); but that=99s not what we
mostly use them for anyway. Even some of the more reasonably priced
droid tablets seem to work pretty well, though my experience is that he
apps running on that OS aren=99t quite as polished and as stable
as the same app running on iOS (at least for WingX, ForeFligth and
Garmin Pilot). Tim Olson would also be a good one for advice on this,
as he=99s FAR more geeky than I am when it comes to the bits/bytes
of these things and has superior experience in using them for longer
periods of time and on trips in the cockpit than I do. J
That=99s just my 2 cents, but everyone has their own opinions
based on their own experiences, needs, budget, etc..
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: USB Charger Adapter
Stein, I don't want to derail the topic, but could you give a brief
summary why the mini iPad preference over the full? Is it just the
size, or is it something more?
Thanks,
John J
On Jul 13, 2013, at 8:58 AM, "Stein Bruch" wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Ipad Mini PIREPs ? |
Hi Deems,
As I mentioned in the other thread, I think you'll find that any/all of the
consumer grade tablets will be disappointing in direct sunlight as compared
to an aviation grade unit like a 696 or something. Anti-glare screen
protectors go a long way, but still they are in a different league. If you
go into this experience knowing that even the "best" of the consumer tablets
are still poor in direct sunlight, then you'll be fine. But, if anyone
tells you that certain ones are so much better in comparison, then you'll
likely find that no matter which one you buy it'll still seem pretty meager
in direct sun. I say go get a tablet and don't look back - you WILL fall in
love with the thing after you play around with it for awhile; whether you
use Garmin Pilot (my new fav), Foreflight, or WingX, any of them are a
terrific addition to your flight bag.
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 12:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Ipad Mini PIREPs ?
I like the form factor of the mini as an 'in-cockpit' device, I was about to
buy one, But a conversation I had with a pilot at the airport said he was
extremely disappointed with it's screen readability. In his eyes the screen
wasn't nearly bright enough for in-cockpit use. I haven't compared the NIT
rating of each,
Anybody have any real experience they'd like to share?
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ipad Mini PIREPs ? |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Thanks Stein, I've been flying with an Ipad w/glareshield ever since
ForeFlight was available. I guess I should have asked: is the mini
better/worse/same as the full size ipad wrt readability?
On Sat, Jul 13, 2013 at 11:42 AM, Stein Bruch wrote:
> Hi Deems,****
>
> ** **
>
> As I mentioned in the other thread, I think you=92ll find that any/all of
> the consumer grade tablets will be disappointing in direct sunlight as
> compared to an aviation grade unit like a 696 or something. Anti-glare
> screen protectors go a long way, but still they are in a different league
.
> If you go into this experience knowing that even the =93best=94 of the co
nsumer
> tablets are still poor in direct sunlight, then you=92ll be fine. But, i
f
> anyone tells you that certain ones are so much better in comparison, then
> you=92ll likely find that no matter which one you buy it=92ll still seem
pretty
> meager in direct sun. I say go get a tablet and don=92t look back ' yo
u WILL
> fall in love with the thing after you play around with it for awhile;
> whether you use Garmin Pilot (my new fav), Foreflight, or WingX, any of
> them are a terrific addition to your flight bag.****
>
> ** **
>
> Cheers,****
>
> Stein ****
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Deems Davis
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 13, 2013 12:12 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Ipad Mini PIREPs ?****
>
> ** **
>
> I like the form factor of the mini as an 'in-cockpit' device, I was about
> to buy one, But a conversation I had with a pilot at the airport said he
> was extremely disappointed with it's screen readability. In his eyes the
> screen wasn't nearly bright enough for in-cockpit use. I haven't compared
> the NIT rating of each,****
>
> Anybody have any real experience they'd like to share?****
>
> ** **
>
> Deems****
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ipad Mini PIREPs ? |
I=99d love any suggestions for a good anti-glare screen
protector...
From: Stein Bruch
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 2:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ipad Mini PIREPs ?
Hi Deems,
As I mentioned in the other thread, I think you=99ll find that
any/all of the consumer grade tablets will be disappointing in direct
sunlight as compared to an aviation grade unit like a 696 or something.
Anti-glare screen protectors go a long way, but still they are in a
different league. If you go into this experience knowing that even the
=9Cbest=9D of the consumer tablets are still poor in direct
sunlight, then you=99ll be fine. But, if anyone tells you that
certain ones are so much better in comparison, then you=99ll
likely find that no matter which one you buy it=99ll still seem
pretty meager in direct sun. I say go get a tablet and don=99t
look back =93 you WILL fall in love with the thing after you play
around with it for awhile; whether you use Garmin Pilot (my new fav),
Foreflight, or WingX, any of them are a terrific addition to your flight
bag.
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 12:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Ipad Mini PIREPs ?
I like the form factor of the mini as an 'in-cockpit' device, I was
about to buy one, But a conversation I had with a pilot at the airport
said he was extremely disappointed with it's screen readability. In his
eyes the screen wasn't nearly bright enough for in-cockpit use. I
haven't compared the NIT rating of each,
Anybody have any real experience they'd like to share?
Deems
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ipad Mini PIREPs ? |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Brando anti-glare. I buy them for ever i-device I have and have bought doze
ns for me and others at work.
On Jul 13, 2013, at 4:35 PM, wrote:
> I=99d love any suggestions for a good anti-glare screen protector...
>
> From: Stein Bruch
> Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 2:42 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ipad Mini PIREPs ?
>
> Hi Deems,
>
> As I mentioned in the other thread, I think you=99ll find that any/a
ll of the consumer grade tablets will be disappointing in direct sunlight as
compared to an aviation grade unit like a 696 or something. Anti-glare scr
een protectors go a long way, but still they are in a different league. If y
ou go into this experience knowing that even the =9Cbest=9D of t
he consumer tablets are still poor in direct sunlight, then you=99ll b
e fine. But, if anyone tells you that certain ones are so much better in co
mparison, then you=99ll likely find that no matter which one you buy i
t=99ll still seem pretty meager in direct sun. I say go get a tablet a
nd don=99t look back =93 you WILL fall in love with the thing af
ter you play around with it for awhile; whether you use Garmin Pilot (my new
fav), Foreflight, or WingX, any of them are a terrific addition to your fli
ght bag.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 12:12 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Ipad Mini PIREPs ?
>
> I like the form factor of the mini as an 'in-cockpit' device, I was about t
o buy one, But a conversation I had with a pilot at the airport said he was e
xtremely disappointed with it's screen readability. In his eyes the screen w
asn't nearly bright enough for in-cockpit use. I haven't compared the NIT ra
ting of each,
> Anybody have any real experience they'd like to share?
>
> Deems
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ipad Mini PIREPs ? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I agree with the above. My mini with a Brando glare shield is nowhere as good as
the display on my Cheltons, but it is good enough. It is mounted right of center
to my panel with a RAM ball mount. I can almost always tilt it to eliminate
glare.
Jim Berry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404654#404654
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
I initially sourced mine through John Johanson, however he's no longer in business.
Try Henkell and I think there agent is at Lonsdale here in Adelaide. Tell them
you'd prefer the crystals to mix up yourself.
They also sell the Deoxidine phosphoric acid pre-etch.
You should purchase a box of 3M maroon scouring pads from Weber Abrasives here
in Adelaide.
If you need any further information or ad advice, please call me (Mob: 0418 850
156).
Warm regards
Patrick
On 13/07/2013, at 18:57, "palark" wrote:
>
> Patrick,
> I am very interested in where you source your alodine and deoxidine. I am in
Loxton SA.
>
> Roger
>
> palark(at)tpg.com.au
>
> [quote="rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com"]Bill,
>
>
> I keep the alodine solution in a 20 litre container and top up the crystal concentration
when I notice the dip time is starting to get longer to achieve the
same level of coating.
>
>
> I always prepare the parts by scrubbing them with a maroon 3M Scotchbrite pad
in a solution of 'Deoxidine' (a Henkel product), just scrub enough to get the
shine off the aluminium, then fresh water rinse and air dry before dipping in
the alodine solution.
>
>
> I use a storage water heater overflow tray, which is about 1.5" deep & about
4' in diameter to dip the large parts. The advantage of this tray is that it has
a plastic ball valve plumbed into the tray and allows me to easily decant the
solution back into the storage container for reuse. I use black plastic irrigation
fittings and pipe which attach to the ball valve. Can send you pictures.
>
>
> For longer, slender parts, I've made up a long bath using 6" diameter PVC sewer
pipe with caps each end and another plastic ball valve fitted as described
above.
>
>
> I've cut the top 2" off the entire length of the pipe to allow you to sit the
pipe horizontally on an old pallet. Great for long parts and gives a solution
depth of about 4".
>
>
> Please ensure that you read the Material Safety Data Sheet for the alodine more
so, as its toxic stuff.
>
>
> I've seen guys also use wheelie bins as dip baths and lowering parts in with
tie wire and suspending them from some dowel placed across the bin opening. Doing
this means you'll need a lot of solution and the bin is very heavy to move.
I get away with 20 litres, which is stored when not required.
>
>
> Yell out if you need any more info. Google the Henkel site for technical advice.
>
> Warm regards from Oz.
>
> Patrick
>
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
> On 08/02/2013, at 3:15 AM, "Billy Britton" wrote:
>
>
>
>> A while back I recall a thread about alodine and where to get it. This
particular post I remember was about a powder form. I've searched aircraft
spruce and cannot find a powder form of alodine. Can anybody tell me where
I might find it? Also, Ive never done the alodine before. What prep is required
of the parts before using the alodine?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==================================
>>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==================================
>>> cs.com
>>> ==================================
>>> matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==================================
>>
>> [b]
>
>
> --------
> Roger
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404588#404588
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
| From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
I re-read AC43.13 and didn't find any mention of a limit to the length of safety
wire that can be used. I simply brought the wire from bolt to bolt in a typical
arrangement and the span looks to be about 3". Is this a problem? Seems ok
to me.
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Electrical/avionics
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404667#404667
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
There's no doubt that shorter is better. The longer the span the
'potential' for loosening becomes greater.
So, ask yourself what the consequences of that (those) particular
fasteners loosening a little.
This could be an 'experiment' so get back to us ......
IMHO, of course.
Linn
On 7/14/2013 11:46 AM, dhmoose wrote:
>
> I re-read AC43.13 and didn't find any mention of a limit to the length of safety
wire that can be used. I simply brought the wire from bolt to bolt in a typical
arrangement and the span looks to be about 3". Is this a problem? Seems
ok to me.
>
> --------
> David Halmos
> RV-10
> Electrical/avionics
> Portland, OR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404667#404667
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
| From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
I suspect, in my experiment, I'll get a "backup alternator" light illumination
on my panel. I'll then fly on or land...and adjust the belt tension when back
on the ground. I'll then recall this thread, enjoy a good chuckle... and press
on. :)
Or... I'll re-safety it now prior to first flight. Haha.
flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
> There's no doubt that shorter is better. The longer the span the
> 'potential' for loosening becomes greater.
> So, ask yourself what the consequences of that (those) particular
> fasteners loosening a little.
> This could be an 'experiment' so get back to us ......
> IMHO, of course.
> Linn
>
> On 7/14/2013 11:46 AM, dhmoose wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I re-read AC43.13 and didn't find any mention of a limit to the length of
safety wire that can be used. I simply brought the wire from bolt to bolt in a
typical arrangement and the span looks to be about 3". Is this a problem? Seems
ok to me.
> >
> > --------
> > David Halmos
> > RV-10
> > Electrical/avionics
> > Portland, OR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404667#404667
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Electrical/avionics
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404671#404671
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover |
All,
Last winter I installed a plate in the lower cowl that covers most of the
nose gear leg slot going forward from the gear leg (I left enough gap to
allow for the gear leg to flex). I found that it did reduce some cowl drag,
but at the expense of engine cooling on hard climb outs. As today was
standard east coast hot and humid, I took the plate out. With the plate out
I noted a 10 to 15 degree cooler peak CHT on a hard climb to 8500'. I also
again noted a knot or two off my typical cruise setting.
So - winter the plate is in, summer the plate is out.
Carl
RV-10 (115 hrs)
RV-8A (sold last month)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover |
Interesting,
I have heard another builder report cooler climbs doing this too. I
have a plate and now I=99ll have to test this on my 10.
Thanks for the report.
From: Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 1:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover
All,
Last winter I installed a plate in the lower cowl that covers most of
the nose gear leg slot going forward from the gear leg (I left enough
gap to allow for the gear leg to flex). I found that it did reduce some
cowl drag, but at the expense of engine cooling on hard climb outs. As
today was standard east coast hot and humid, I took the plate out. With
the plate out I noted a 10 to 15 degree cooler peak CHT on a hard climb
to 8500'. I also again noted a knot or two off my typical cruise
setting.
So - winter the plate is in, summer the plate is out.
Carl
RV-10 (115 hrs)
RV-8A (sold last month)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover |
| From: | Pascal <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
Great feedback! I just pulled my plate for cooling troubleshooting.
Wondered if it mattered. Now I know
Thx
On Jul 14, 2013, at 12:22 PM, "Carl Froehlich" w
rote:
> All,
>
> Last winter I installed a plate in the lower cowl that covers most of the n
ose gear leg slot going forward from the gear leg (I left enough gap to allo
w for the gear leg to flex). I found that it did reduce some cowl drag, but
at the expense of engine cooling on hard climb outs. As today was standard
east coast hot and humid, I took the plate out. With the plate out I noted
a 10 to 15 degree cooler peak CHT on a hard climb to 8500'. I also again n
oted a knot or two off my typical cruise setting.
>
> So - winter the plate is in, summer the plate is out.
>
> Carl
> RV-10 (115 hrs)
> RV-8A (sold last month)
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA installation in wings |
Where did you purchase parker pneumatic line?
Dave Fritzsche
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
On 2/27/2012 6:45 PM, Seano wrote:
>
> I bought parker pneumatic line to run coax in my wing. It is 5/16 OD
> and it runs down the "J" channels in the wing. You can push coax
> through with ease. I ran coax through it to keep it away from powered
> linesin the conduit. You could easily pull the AOA lines through this
> as well. It stays in place so you don't have to tack it in the channel.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens"
>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2012 7:27 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: AOA installation in wings
>
>
>>
>> Here's my installation. I routed the tubes out to the end then back
>> to the fuselage.
>>
>> http://rv10.stephensville.com/2010/06/06/routing-aoa-tubes/
>>
>> Also, the ports in no way conflict with the install of the Duckworks
>> lights. They are plenty aft of the mount.
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (Still wiring panel)
>>
>> On 2/27/12 6:32 PM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
>>> On the third bay in from the wingtip on the spar there's a hole in
>>> the web. I assume these are tooling holes. This will probably
>>> warrant a phone call to Vans, but, does anybody have any thoughts
>>> (other than "don't mess with the wing spar any more than you need
>>> to!!!") about enlarging that hole to 7/16 for a snap bushing? I'm
>>> looking for a route for the pressure lines on my AOA. Aside from
>>> ordering a longer tubing length from AFS and running the tubing to
>>> the wingtip, then the full length of the wing through my conduit, I
>>> cannot see any easier way. I do already have my outboard leading
>>> edges installed, so this will be fairly difficult anyway.
>>> My only other thought is to just run both tubes through the hole and
>>> then gob proseal around them to keep them from rubbing.
>>> Anybody have any other general suggestions about the wing install
>>> part of this??? Pictures??? Using the stock location suggested on
>>> the AFS site, does anybody know how this will affect--if any--the
>>> install of the Duckworks leading edge landing lights in the same bay?
>>> Thanks again for any help,
>>> Bill
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)planearound.com> |
I have some mounts for sale at PlaneAround that screw into any tie down ring on
RV's. It has worked well for under the tail or wings and filming video. I recently
made another mount which uses the tie down mount but is made to mount
on the wingtip. I know it fits an RV-10 and RV6 and it should fit all the RV's
and actually a lot of other aircraft. I test flew it today and dove over 200mph
to make sure the side load wouldn't distort the skin. It doesn't. I pointed
it at a 45 degree angle thinking this would produce the strongest side load
at 200 mph. No problem for the mount. It has a rubber bottom so it won't
scratch the paint and is made out of aluminum. Just looking to see if others
are interested to see how many I should start with. I still have the fuel cap
mount but thought the wingtip would be more popular. They can be pointed any
direction.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
400 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404786#404786
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_mount3_786.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_mount2_230.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_mount1_191.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_mount_155.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine control cables, McFarlane |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I'm looking at the RV-10 offerings at McFarlane. While they list for both
stock panel and Aerosport panel, I don't see any actual lengths, nor do I
recall anyone actually reporting experience with them.
I've bought cables from them for certified planes, and I like the quality.
Just would like to hear anyone's experience with them, both with install
fit issues, and operational. I have one of the Aerosport panels, so I guess
that is what I need to order, just not sure how it is all that different
from stock.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternatives to RockRack Switches |
| From: | Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com> |
Hi there.
When it comes to switches for my panel, I like the idea of LED illuminated switches
with some kind of text/icon directly visible on the switch to indicate its
function. I'd rather not have to label the panel itself. The Aveo RockRack
switches, though a bit on the large side, seemed exactly what I was working for.
However, when I went to contact a distributor about them, I was told that they're
no longer being made, in anticipation for a "new version" with no ETA. I can
wait a bit if I knew how long the wait would be, but not indefinitely, so I'm
exploring different options.
Does anybody have something else they could suggest (or does someone know a source
for RockRack switches that has them in stock)? One possibility is perhaps
something that allows me to laser print on acetate my own labels to slide into
a window on the switch? I was looking at the Carling Contura V series, with
some of their actuators that provide a square illumination window, but the more
closely I look into them, I'm suspecting its just a frosted window with no
ability for custom labelling.
I also looked at NKK SmartSwitches, but though they may look nice, add a lot of
extra complication. (The primary complication I see is that I'd need to design
an interface board to convert their momentary contact into a latched on or off
state, and it seems that the reliability when introducing that kind of complication
would go way down).
I've seen the rocker switches available from AeroSport Products (I'm already using
their carbon fibre panel and interior), but from their photos on the web site,
their labels look somewhat "washed out" (though this could just be a side
effect of the photos overexposing the labelled portion). Has anyone seen them
to know what they look like in reality? From what I've seen so far, they seem
like my best bet, but I wanted to check with the members of the list here first
to get opinions on what makes a nice looking switch for the RV-10.
Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternatives to RockRack Switches |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I have Geoff's switches in my RV-10. The labels are black lettered decals applied
to the led window on the switch, They are very well defined and sharp.
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 17, 2013, at 5:53 AM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
>
> I've seen the rocker switches available from AeroSport Products (I'm already
using their carbon fibre panel and interior), but from their photos on the web
site, their labels look somewhat "washed out" (though this could just be a side
effect of the photos overexposing the labelled portion). Has anyone seen them
to know what they look like in reality? From what I've seen so far, they
seem like my best bet, but I wanted to check with the members of the list here
first to get opinions on what makes a nice looking switch for the RV-10.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
John Welsh, of the CMH FSDO, office stopped by the hanger today to inspect N410BL.
Two hours later I had both the Airworthiness certificate and my temporary
Repairman's certificate.
I asked John why my pink slip was salmon. He didnt have an answer.
I would like to thank my family, Janice, Brad, and Renee for all their work on
the project. Now the fun can begin! I also want to thank Geoff Combs, Jim Baldwin,
Joe Strausbaugh, Tom Webster Sr., Dana Saucier, Todd Stanton, Brent Owens,
and all of the RV-10 Matronics list for all their assistance, mentoring, and
friendship throughout the build.
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404830#404830
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Way to hang in there Bob.... now the fun begins.
Don McDonald
--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 7/17/13, rleffler wrote:
Subject: RV10-List: Pink Slip
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, July 17, 2013, 7:46 AM
"rleffler"
John Welsh, of the CMH FSDO, office stopped by the hanger
today to inspect N410BL. Two hours later I had both
the Airworthiness certificate and my temporary Repairman's
certificate.
I asked John why my pink slip was salmon. He
didnt have an answer.
I would like to thank my family, Janice, Brad, and Renee for
all their work on the project. Now the fun can
begin! I also want to thank Geoff Combs, Jim Baldwin,
Joe Strausbaugh, Tom Webster Sr., Dana Saucier, Todd
Stanton, Brent Owens, and all of the RV-10 Matronics list
for all their assistance, mentoring, and friendship
throughout the build.
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404830#404830
Forum -
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
List Contribution Web Site -
-Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Congrats. When are you planning to do your first flight? My first flight was
one of the most significant events in my life....I will always remember it.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rleffler
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2013 6:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Pink Slip
John Welsh, of the CMH FSDO, office stopped by the hanger today to inspect N410BL.
Two hours later I had both the Airworthiness certificate and my temporary
Repairman's certificate.
I asked John why my pink slip was salmon. He didnt have an answer.
I would like to thank my family, Janice, Brad, and Renee for all their work on
the project. Now the fun can begin! I also want to thank Geoff Combs, Jim Baldwin,
Joe Strausbaugh, Tom Webster Sr., Dana Saucier, Todd Stanton, Brent Owens,
and all of the RV-10 Matronics list for all their assistance, mentoring, and
friendship throughout the build.
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404830#404830
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Awesome, Bob! So next year you'll have it at OSH for sure!!!
Are you coming this year without it, or staying home to fly those
hours off? Or, are you putting in some extra vacation time and
flying it off before OSH?
Tim
On 7/17/2013 7:46 AM, rleffler wrote:
>
> John Welsh, of the CMH FSDO, office stopped by the hanger today to inspect N410BL.
Two hours later I had both the Airworthiness certificate and my temporary
Repairman's certificate.
>
>
>
> I asked John why my pink slip was salmon. He didnt have an answer.
>
> I would like to thank my family, Janice, Brad, and Renee for all their work on
the project. Now the fun can begin! I also want to thank Geoff Combs, Jim
Baldwin, Joe Strausbaugh, Tom Webster Sr., Dana Saucier, Todd Stanton, Brent Owens,
and all of the RV-10 Matronics list for all their assistance, mentoring,
and friendship throughout the build.
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Phase I
> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404830#404830
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Huge congrats Bob!
Seems like the finishing phase will never end. Have followed your build
for a long time and it has been big help in making my choices.
Kelly
On 7/17/2013 5:46 AM, rleffler wrote:
>
> John Welsh, of the CMH FSDO, office stopped by the hanger today to inspect N410BL.
Two hours later I had both the Airworthiness certificate and my temporary
Repairman's certificate.
>
>
>
> I asked John why my pink slip was salmon. He didnt have an answer.
>
> I would like to thank my family, Janice, Brad, and Renee for all their work on
the project. Now the fun can begin! I also want to thank Geoff Combs, Jim
Baldwin, Joe Strausbaugh, Tom Webster Sr., Dana Saucier, Todd Stanton, Brent Owens,
and all of the RV-10 Matronics list for all their assistance, mentoring,
and friendship throughout the build.
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Phase I
> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404830#404830
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Go Pro mounts |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)planearound.com> |
My website is updated to show the wingtip mount and the tie down mount sold separately
or together.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
400 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404838#404838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Rene, for me too. 32 years ago I flew my Pitts S-1E for the first
time. Every part of that first flight is still fresh and indelibly
etched in my memory. My checkride for my private in 74 is the same
way. Very momentous occasions!!!
Linn
On 7/17/2013 9:16 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> Congrats. When are you planning to do your first flight? My first flight was
one of the most significant events in my life....I will always remember it.
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rleffler
> Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2013 6:47 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Pink Slip
>
>
> John Welsh, of the CMH FSDO, office stopped by the hanger today to inspect N410BL.
Two hours later I had both the Airworthiness certificate and my temporary
Repairman's certificate.
>
>
>
> I asked John why my pink slip was salmon. He didnt have an answer.
>
> I would like to thank my family, Janice, Brad, and Renee for all their work on
the project. Now the fun can begin! I also want to thank Geoff Combs, Jim
Baldwin, Joe Strausbaugh, Tom Webster Sr., Dana Saucier, Todd Stanton, Brent Owens,
and all of the RV-10 Matronics list for all their assistance, mentoring,
and friendship throughout the build.
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Phase I
> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404830#404830
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Part Number for Third Keyed Lock From Aircraft Spruce |
I tried to order a keyed ignition switch and lock set A-510-2k (part
number 11-03172) from Aircraft Spruce this morning. I wanted to include
a third lock with all keyed alike to cover the two doors and baggage
door as others have done on this list. The person taking the order
asked me for a part number for the additional lock. No part number is
shown on the web page. He said he could not order the additional lock
without a part number. Does anyone have the part number for the third lock?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Byron Gillespie <bgill1(at)mediastreamus.net> |
More congrats Bob! Look forward to the first flight review..
I fully agree with the Matronics list group and the individual web sites that are
available for reference.Don't believe that I would have jumped in without the
available support.
Byron
N253RV flying - but still need paint
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 17, 2013, at 8:46 AM, "rleffler" wrote:
>
> John Welsh, of the CMH FSDO, office stopped by the hanger today to inspect N410BL.
Two hours later I had both the Airworthiness certificate and my temporary
Repairman's certificate.
>
>
>
> I asked John why my pink slip was salmon. He didnt have an answer.
>
> I would like to thank my family, Janice, Brad, and Renee for all their work on
the project. Now the fun can begin! I also want to thank Geoff Combs, Jim
Baldwin, Joe Strausbaugh, Tom Webster Sr., Dana Saucier, Todd Stanton, Brent Owens,
and all of the RV-10 Matronics list for all their assistance, mentoring,
and friendship throughout the build.
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Phase I
> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404830#404830
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternatives to RockRack Switches |
I used white Honeywell rockers (AML34,24) with labels and backlighting.
I'm assuming you aware of the these already and have already decided
they are not what you want. But LEDs or incandescent bulbs can be
used. There is a vendor that does quality custom lettering as well.
Here's a pic of part of my panel with them
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=4053&log=122434&row=2
On 7/17/2013 5:53 AM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi there.
>
> When it comes to switches for my panel, I like the idea of LED illuminated switches
with some kind of text/icon directly visible on the switch to indicate
its function. I'd rather not have to label the panel itself. The Aveo RockRack
switches, though a bit on the large side, seemed exactly what I was working
for.
>
> However, when I went to contact a distributor about them, I was told that they're
no longer being made, in anticipation for a "new version" with no ETA. I
can wait a bit if I knew how long the wait would be, but not indefinitely, so
I'm exploring different options.
>
> Does anybody have something else they could suggest (or does someone know a source
for RockRack switches that has them in stock)? One possibility is perhaps
something that allows me to laser print on acetate my own labels to slide into
a window on the switch? I was looking at the Carling Contura V series, with
some of their actuators that provide a square illumination window, but the
more closely I look into them, I'm suspecting its just a frosted window with no
ability for custom labelling.
>
> I also looked at NKK SmartSwitches, but though they may look nice, add a lot
of extra complication. (The primary complication I see is that I'd need to design
an interface board to convert their momentary contact into a latched on or
off state, and it seems that the reliability when introducing that kind of complication
would go way down).
>
> I've seen the rocker switches available from AeroSport Products (I'm already
using their carbon fibre panel and interior), but from their photos on the web
site, their labels look somewhat "washed out" (though this could just be a side
effect of the photos overexposing the labelled portion). Has anyone seen them
to know what they look like in reality? From what I've seen so far, they
seem like my best bet, but I wanted to check with the members of the list here
first to get opinions on what makes a nice looking switch for the RV-10.
>
> Dan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Part Number for Third Keyed Lock From Aircraft Spruce |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I would have to look it up and all my records are packed for an upcoming move.
I was told that they really don't have a option for adding a single lock. I suspect
it's a lack of defined process issue.
ACS does have a sku for a custom order for the switch and four identical keyed
locks. It's not on their website. That's what I did. It took about two weeks
to get the locks.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 17, 2013, at 12:26 PM, "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" wrote:
I tried to order a keyed ignition switch and lock set A-510-2k (part number 11-03172)
from Aircraft Spruce this morning. I wanted to include a third lock with
all keyed alike to cover the two doors and baggage door as others have done
on this list. The person taking the order asked me for a part number for the
additional lock. No part number is shown on the web page. He said he could
not order the additional lock without a part number. Does anyone have the part
number for the third lock?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternatives to RockRack Switches |
| From: | "charliewaffles" <mcooper(at)live.com> |
The Rockrack switches are easily in stock at ACS. I would recommend purchasing
them there. The "future" version has never materialized so I wouldn't wait for
them. The dual colored lights are difficult to get ahold of and if ACS doesn't
have them, it could be 6+ months. But if you are sticking to a single color
lamp, then you should be good to go with them.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404854#404854
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Alternatives to RockRack Switches |
Dan
We have sold many of these switches and everyone that likes rockers switches
seems to like them. The lettering
Is very easy to read and you are not limited to only certain lettering or
graphics. We can do custom lettering if
Needed for a small up charge. Pricing is way less than AVEO See attached
photos
Geoff
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Products
8090 howe industrial pkwy
canal winchester, ohio 43110
614.834.8659p
www.aerosportproducts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2013 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternatives to RockRack Switches
I used white Honeywell rockers (AML34,24) with labels and backlighting.
I'm assuming you aware of the these already and have already decided they
are not what you want. But LEDs or incandescent bulbs can be used. There
is a vendor that does quality custom lettering as well.
Here's a pic of part of my panel with them
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&c
ategory=4053&log=122434&row=2
On 7/17/2013 5:53 AM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi there.
>
> When it comes to switches for my panel, I like the idea of LED illuminated
switches with some kind of text/icon directly visible on the switch to
indicate its function. I'd rather not have to label the panel itself. The
Aveo RockRack switches, though a bit on the large side, seemed exactly what
I was working for.
>
> However, when I went to contact a distributor about them, I was told that
they're no longer being made, in anticipation for a "new version" with no
ETA. I can wait a bit if I knew how long the wait would be, but not
indefinitely, so I'm exploring different options.
>
> Does anybody have something else they could suggest (or does someone know
a source for RockRack switches that has them in stock)? One possibility is
perhaps something that allows me to laser print on acetate my own labels to
slide into a window on the switch? I was looking at the Carling Contura V
series, with some of their actuators that provide a square illumination
window, but the more closely I look into them, I'm suspecting its just a
frosted window with no ability for custom labelling.
>
> I also looked at NKK SmartSwitches, but though they may look nice, add a
lot of extra complication. (The primary complication I see is that I'd need
to design an interface board to convert their momentary contact into a
latched on or off state, and it seems that the reliability when introducing
that kind of complication would go way down).
>
> I've seen the rocker switches available from AeroSport Products (I'm
already using their carbon fibre panel and interior), but from their photos
on the web site, their labels look somewhat "washed out" (though this could
just be a side effect of the photos overexposing the labelled portion). Has
anyone seen them to know what they look like in reality? From what I've
seen so far, they seem like my best bet, but I wanted to check with the
members of the list here first to get opinions on what makes a nice looking
switch for the RV-10.
>
> Dan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Part Number for Third Keyed Lock From Aircraft Spruce |
I bought a similar lock at Lowes and took it to the local locksmith. They
made it fit my ignition key.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matt's KLVK ATC Streaming... |
Dear Listers,
A couple of weeks ago I found a web site on the Internet called LiveATC.net that
has the Air Traffic Control (ATC) tower communications on line for streaming
for a number of airports around the country. Lo 'n behold, they even have a
stream for my home base, the Livermore Airport. But, much to my dismay, the quality
of their KLVK feed was just plain awful. It was obvious the airband source
didn't have a decent antenna or perhaps even a good radio. I suppose that
given that their site is a consortium of local citizens providing the feeds,
the lack of quality goes with the territory.
But, I really liked the idea of being able to monitor the LVK ATC and also the
ability to bring up the archives and listen to my personal communications with
the tower after a flight.
Since I had a computer at the hangar along with a pretty decent Internet connection
and, in the spirit of Experimental Homebuilding, I had an idea... I mounted
an air-band antenna on the top of the hangar and brought the RG-58 coax down
to near the computer and plugged it into my trusty Icom IC-A20 hand held.
I was AMAZED at the quality of signal I was getting. It was picking up guys in
airplanes 19 miles out like they were sitting next to my hangar! I set the
radio to high-speed scan between the Tower and Ground frequencies so with a single
feed I could get all communications.
So next, I made an audio connection from the handheld to the Line In input on the computer. Sure enough, now I was getting great sound from the hand held on the computer! I found some software from Australia called BroadWave from a company called NCH ( http://www.nch.com.au/streaming ). It lets you connect to the Line In port on the computer and then generate real time audio streams that can be served up via the Internet. And sure enough, it works great!
Next, I found some software from Germany called Loop Recorder ( http://looprecorder.de ) that let's you monitor an audio input on your computer and generate archive files. You can select an increment in which to rotate the files automatically, for example, every 30 minutes. I downloaded this software and installed it and sure enough, I was able to start archiving the ATC transmissions coming in, all the while streaming them live as well!
The last piece of the puzzle was to enable the Web and FTP servers on the Windows
7 system and come up with a front-end web page that would tie all of these
new resources together for easy access from the Internet. I'm happy to report,
the whole thing came together very nicely and even allows you stream directly
to your Android or iPhone as well as your desktop! Pretty darn cool!
And so, without further ado, here is my new web site for monitoring the ATC communications
at KLVK:
http://klvk.matronics.com/
Just to state the obvious, the stream is silent if there isn't any current ATC
or aircraft communications. During the day, you'll usually hear something within
five or ten minutes. Sometimes much quicker.
I contacted LiveATC.net and they were excited about adding my new stream to their web site as well. So, at some point soon, the LiveATC.net feed for Livermore Airport will be coming from my hangar! My site http://klvk.matronics.com will continue to be available as well.
For entertainment purposes only!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 170+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Matt's KLVK ATC Streaming... |
| From: | Jay Rowe <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
Matt: So very cool. Jay in #164 just behind you at KLVK.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 18, 2013, at 2:31 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> continue to be available as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Just bumping as a reminder to those who procrastinate... Also, sounds like there
will be a large cookout this year, probably on Wednesday afternoon/evening
after the daytime airshow and before the night show. Nothing is firmed up yet,
stay tuned for more info.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404931#404931
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brain trust stick wiring poll |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I'm at the stage of wiring my stick grips and wondering what sage advice there
is on running the wires inside the stick or outside. I'm leaning inside, but
love to hear some feedback.
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404980#404980
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
I ran mine on the inside .... full blown infinity stick grips. I had to
'relieve' the sharp bend at the bottom of the straight portion and the
wire exits through a 1/4" hole at the rear of the mount.
Linn
On 7/20/2013 3:22 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> I'm at the stage of wiring my stick grips and wondering what sage advice there
is on running the wires inside the stick or outside. I'm leaning inside, but
love to hear some feedback.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404980#404980
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
I have the infinity grips. I drilled and put the wires on the inside,
however I also had an issue and needed to replace one of the switches on the
grip. It would have been a lot easier to have the wires on the outside.
Also, if you plan to put a boot over the stick, outside is fine.
Only reason to think outside is time, it is really easy to run the wires up
the stick and zip tie, but if you do, make sure you cover them with a full
stick boot.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: woxofswa
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 12:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brain trust stick wiring poll
I'm at the stage of wiring my stick grips and wondering what sage advice
there is on running the wires inside the stick or outside. I'm leaning
inside, but love to hear some feedback.
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404980#404980
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I ran mine inside also. There is no reason not to, and it looks better. You will
have to drill a hole at the top of the stick where the vertical attaches to
the main part of the stick. You don't need a large hole. I covered the wires
with anti chafe skin and left enough slack at the bottom where it exits, to
pull the grip up off the stick very easily if they need servicing. The downside
is removing the stick requires disconnecting the wires. To aid in making
this a bit easier, I used a barrier block with screw terminals. If you put a
connector on the end of the wires, you will not be able to pull them all the way
back out.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405005#405005
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/exit_stick_176.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Brain trust stick wiring poll |
Here is a solution for running inside the stick. We welded a doubler on the
stick receiver since we slotted it. This allows complete removal of the
stick with the wiring/CPC connector. Infinity grips used.
-Chris Lucas
N919AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 3:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brain trust stick wiring poll
I'm at the stage of wiring my stick grips and wondering what sage advice
there is on running the wires inside the stick or outside. I'm leaning
inside, but love to hear some feedback.
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404980#404980
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Brain trust stick wiring poll |
Inside. In fact even if I had a stick boot (which I never will) I would run them
inside. With the Infinity wire bundle there are a LOT of wires. I think we ended
up using a common ground so we were able to remove more than a third of the
wires leaving extras in case I wanted to expand in the future. This made it
a lot easier to fish through the stick. On the tail end we used a D Shell style
connector in the rare event we would have to remove the stick. We did the same
set up on all the 2 place RV's as we often removed the Co-pilots stick for
various reasons.
One note on grip buttons. If I were to do it over again with all the modern tech
and push button items in our cockpit I would now dedicate one button to an OK
or Accept button. We get the most random notifications on these glass displays
that simply request acknowledgement. It would be nice the flick a pinky to
confirm the notification.
One note on the grips themselves. I see so many installs that have the grip facing
straight forward. I strongly suggest you sit in your seat properly located
forward & aft to see what angle your stick hand lands on the stick. Put the grip
in our hand un-mounted or over the stick to see what feels best. Close your
eyes and drop your hand into position. Do it several times. You will notice
the ideal orientation has significant rotation from directly forward. Mine was
about a 40 Degree rotation. No way would straight forward be comfortable for
long hand flying. Even worse on takeoff when you often have to flick the trim
several times, flip the Flaps Up toggle and push the flip/flop not having the
correct & natural orientation on the grip makes for something less than ideal
button orientation as well as a less natural placement in your hand. Just something
to consider.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 12:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brain trust stick wiring poll
I'm at the stage of wiring my stick grips and wondering what sage advice there
is on running the wires inside the stick or outside. I'm leaning inside, but
love to hear some feedback.
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404980#404980
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My plane is definitely function first, beauty last. I ran the wires, in a protective
covering, on the outside.
Adding to Robin's comment, one nice feature of the Tosten grip is that the hold
down screw rides in a groove. With it snug but not tight the grip rotates naturally
with your hand, as you move the stick.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405036#405036
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Thanks for the replies.
I went for the inside option tied to a bus terminal on mounted on the gear tree.
I ran enough slack to just clip off ring terminals and re-crimp several times
if I ever have to remove.
My stick grips are unique. To have a little of the day job flavor, I used a battle
worn salvage Boeing 737 yoke. I cut off the uprights to make them my stick
grips. My trim, A/P disco, and PTT will all be original Boeing on the left
grip. To attach the grips to the sticks I hillbilly engineered an interface
from a stack of the scrap spar spacers.
(http://s125.photobucket.com/user/myronnelson/media/photo_zpsd50c2674.jpg.html)
(http://s125.photobucket.com/user/myronnelson/media/photo_zps740aa321.jpg.html)
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405040#405040
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Well, this morning, as I pull my Mooney out of hangar for a breakfast run,
I see Doug Petersen launch in his RV-10. I fly to Glendale for breakfast
and meet Dave McNeil there with his RV-10. I fly back to Chandler, put
Mooney away, go to terminal and there is Doug Petersen, just back from his
breakfast run to Payson. So I go back to RV-10 hangar and try to be
productive moving along my RV-10 project.
In the 90-90 phase.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
While usually Robin and I are on the same page, here I differ a bit.
I think too much is made of the rotating of the grip. Yeah, you will want it
rotated slightly, but I don't think any major rotation is warranted.
I would probably be more likely to recommend AGAINST going
very far in rotation and here's why...
When flying the RV-10, even during landing, I rarely use more than
2 or 3 fingertips on the stick....LITERALLY. You just give it gentle
nudges with 1 or 2 fingers and it does what you want. Honestly
I never ever have the need to grab the grip with a full hand on most
flights. You could throw an mis-shapen blob of rocks on the end of
the stick and I could fly with it, because gripping it is just not
something you would do for hours on end. Your forearm rests
on your legs and it's very comfortable to fly. I could fly with it
cockeyed by 40 degrees, 90 degrees, or 180 degrees.
But, when the rubber meets the road, and you DO need to grip it
hard, that's likely going to be during a time of trouble....some time when
you're going to actually exert yourself to push or pull or yank and bank
like during some event or bad turbulence. At that point I would
recommend that the yoke be rotated in the direction that gives you
the most arm "solid" control ability. Sit at your desk right now,
and try to push yourself back from your desk with your fist, and
see what position your arm wants to be in. Mine certainly doesn't
have full strength at 40 degrees offset. In fact, it's probably
not many degrees off straight...maybe 5-10 at most.
So my position on it is basically....rotate the grip so that if you needed
to do a hard push to override an autopilot or break a stall or
perform a hard maneuver, you could do it with a locked wrist and
be comfortable. And, beyond that, don't worry about it much because
if you're giving the stick your full grip during normal maneuvers
you're probably trying too hard...it's a plane that can be flown
with fingertips and trim alone.
As Dave Mason sung years ago..... "We just disagree", Robin. :)
No worries though....this one falls into that "do whatever you wish"
category as far as I'm concerned. I'm just providing the counterpoint.
Tim
On 7/21/2013 4:58 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Inside. In fact even if I had a stick boot (which I never will) I would run them
inside. With the Infinity wire bundle there are a LOT of wires. I think we
ended up using a common ground so we were able to remove more than a third of
the wires leaving extras in case I wanted to expand in the future. This made
it a lot easier to fish through the stick. On the tail end we used a D Shell style
connector in the rare event we would have to remove the stick. We did the
same set up on all the 2 place RV's as we often removed the Co-pilots stick for
various reasons.
> One note on grip buttons. If I were to do it over again with all the modern tech
and push button items in our cockpit I would now dedicate one button to an
OK or Accept button. We get the most random notifications on these glass displays
that simply request acknowledgement. It would be nice the flick a pinky to
confirm the notification.
> One note on the grips themselves. I see so many installs that have the grip facing
straight forward. I strongly suggest you sit in your seat properly located
forward & aft to see what angle your stick hand lands on the stick. Put the
grip in our hand un-mounted or over the stick to see what feels best. Close your
eyes and drop your hand into position. Do it several times. You will notice
the ideal orientation has significant rotation from directly forward. Mine was
about a 40 Degree rotation. No way would straight forward be comfortable for
long hand flying. Even worse on takeoff when you often have to flick the trim
several times, flip the Flaps Up toggle and push the flip/flop not having the
correct & natural orientation on the grip makes for something less than ideal
button orientation as well as a less natural placement in your hand. Just something
to consider.
>
> Robin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Infinity grip with the wires on the outside. Full boot cover from Flightline Interiors.
Very slightly rotated.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405071#405071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Baggage Tie Downs |
Are many people putting baggage tie downs in the baggage compartment?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
I tried to strike a reasonable balance between beauty and function.
Actually I just got lazy.
Tosten grips and external wire run without a boot. Looks utilitarian
but neat to my eyes. No regrets until this thread.
I chose the Tosten grip because the Infinity had 1 or two more functions
than I could see using. I also liked the rotating ability because the
most comfortable position is far from straight ahead as someone else has
noted. Rotating is even better and the Tosten does that very well.
After 2 years of flying I use the mic button and trim hat all the
time. But since the AP is normally connected, I use the the AP disco
100% and the Transponder ident 50% of the time. Don't use the flip flop
at all. Can't think of another function I would actually use if on the
stick.
Bill "only slightly embarrassed as I look at my taped up stick move all
by itself" Watson
On 7/21/2013 7:37 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> My plane is definitely function first, beauty last. I ran the wires, in a protective
covering, on the outside.
> Adding to Robin's comment, one nice feature of the Tosten grip is that the hold
down screw rides in a groove. With it snug but not tight the grip rotates naturally
with your hand, as you move the stick.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Baggage Tie Downs |
I did and removed them two years ago for the condition inspection and have
not put them back in. After flying two hundred hours I found I did not need
them. I do not have things flying up from the back........YMMV
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
(Building)
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 12:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Tie Downs
Are many people putting baggage tie downs in the baggage compartment?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
On 7/22/2013 2:38 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
snip
> I chose the Tosten grip because the Infinity had 1 or two more
> functions than I could see using. I also liked the rotating ability
> because the most comfortable position is far from straight ahead as
> someone else has noted. Rotating is even better and the Tosten does
> that very well.
I just didn't like the looks of the Tosten, although the swivel function
was pretty neat.
>
> After 2 years of flying I use the mic button and trim hat all the
> time. But since the AP is normally connected, I use the the AP disco
> 100% and the Transponder ident 50% of the time. Don't use the flip
> flop at all. Can't think of another function I would actually use if
> on the stick.
Part of the reason for my choosing the Infinity is .... I'll have
aileron and rudder trim driven by model airplane servos. Maxed out the
switches with only one momentary switch not spoke for. I figured that I
could let switches go unused Vs. adding switches later .......
One comment on running the huge number of wires .... I have all wires
running through a DB-25 that connects to a harness. The harness is 3
DB-25s, one mounted each side behind the pilot/copilot calf and one in
the center tunnel for distribution .... all in parallel. I can easily
install a switch to break the copilots ground rendering that stick inop
.... just haven't found a good place to put the switch.
Linn .... through the stick.
>
> Bill "only slightly embarrassed as I look at my taped up stick move
> all by itself" Watson
>
>
> On 7/21/2013 7:37 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>> My plane is definitely function first, beauty last. I ran the wires,
>> in a protective covering, on the outside.
>> Adding to Robin's comment, one nice feature of the Tosten grip is
>> that the hold down screw rides in a groove. With it snug but not
>> tight the grip rotates naturally with your hand, as you move the stick.
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Fast When They Don't Have To Be |
Here I was planning ahead by a few months to get my registration into
the FAA as recommended. Well, I got it back in a week. Guess all I
have to do now is finish that last 10%. Oh and pay the tax bill that
will now be triggered. :)
-Sean #40303 (prepping for paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Baggage Tie Downs |
I found some nice indoor/outdoor carpet in the aviation section at Lowes.
This is about 1/8" think with a rubber back. A few inches of double sided
tape and you have a surface that limits stuff moving around - and it looks
good. $20 got me enough to change out this carpet several times.
Carl
RV-10 (120 hrs)
RV-8A (sold)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Tie Downs
I did and removed them two years ago for the condition inspection and have
not put them back in. After flying two hundred hours I found I did not need
them. I do not have things flying up from the back........YMMV
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
(Building)
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 12:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Tie Downs
Are many people putting baggage tie downs in the baggage compartment?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fast When They Don't Have To Be |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Just remember that it will need to be renewed 3 years from now (July) not 3 years
from when you get your A/W certificate.
Here in CA tax is assessed on property you own on Jan first. I was careful to not
send in the application until after that. Nevertheless, I got a letter from
the tax assessor asking, "How long have you owned this aircraft?". I replied
that as I had no A/W certificate, that I did not yet own any airplane, just airplane
parts. That seemed to work, they left me alone until the next year.
They are still appraising it for more than it is insured for, but that's another
story.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405092#405092
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fast When They Don't Have To Be |
If you're in a place like California where you'll get a huge tax bill for
the plane, call the Tax agency and tell them ahead of time. I was able to
get deferred a year while I finished up the plane to make it "flyable". Once
you explain it's a home built and the FAA registration is needed for the
pink slip, that may not come for months, the agency usually understands and
works with you.
Just get it done in less than a year ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 12:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fast When They Don't Have To Be
Here I was planning ahead by a few months to get my registration into
the FAA as recommended. Well, I got it back in a week. Guess all I
have to do now is finish that last 10%. Oh and pay the tax bill that
will now be triggered. :)
-Sean #40303 (prepping for paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fast When They Don't Have To Be |
Yep. Already talked to the Illinois folks. I'll be sending in the form
with my costs/invoices so I don't have to rely on their valuation.
We'll see how that works out.
On 7/22/13 4:15 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> If you're in a place like California where you'll get a huge tax bill
> for the plane, call the Tax agency and tell them ahead of time. I was
> able to get deferred a year while I finished up the plane to make it
> "flyable". Once you explain it's a home built and the FAA registration
> is needed for the pink slip, that may not come for months, the agency
> usually understands and works with you.
> Just get it done in less than a year ;-)
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Sean Stephens
> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 12:08 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Fast When They Don't Have To Be
>
>
> Here I was planning ahead by a few months to get my registration into
> the FAA as recommended. Well, I got it back in a week. Guess all I
> have to do now is finish that last 10%. Oh and pay the tax bill that
> will now be triggered. :)
>
> -Sean #40303 (prepping for paint)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | : RV10-List:Stick Rotation - Was: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
My main point about stick grip rotation was less about an absolute number and more
about avoiding blindly installing a grip (especially an Infinity Grip) straight
forward. 10 degrees, 40 degrees whatever you want just don't near permanently
affix your grip without some forethought. I say especially an Infinity Grip
because they seem to be more "molded" than say the Tosten grips.
As for the desk test mentioned below maybe pushing away gives an ideal rotation
of 5-10 but I doubt pulling gives you the same result. I hope to never have to
exert that much pressure on an RV stick. I take that back when doing Power On
Stalls in the -10 either solo or with my light weight instructor and half tanks
the -10 feels like you have to stand it on its tail to cause it to stall.
In that instance I find you might want even more rotation as it feels more like
a curling a heavy weight. Man that -10 is hard to stall with power on. I remember
being totally drenched after 3 Power On Stalls, followed by the most gentle
and predictable break. I love my RV's!
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 6:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brain trust stick wiring poll
While usually Robin and I are on the same page, here I differ a bit.
I think too much is made of the rotating of the grip. Yeah, you will want it rotated
slightly, but I don't think any major rotation is warranted.
I would probably be more likely to recommend AGAINST going very far in rotation
and here's why...
When flying the RV-10, even during landing, I rarely use more than
2 or 3 fingertips on the stick....LITERALLY. You just give it gentle nudges with
1 or 2 fingers and it does what you want. Honestly I never ever have the need
to grab the grip with a full hand on most flights. You could throw an mis-shapen
blob of rocks on the end of the stick and I could fly with it, because
gripping it is just not something you would do for hours on end. Your forearm
rests on your legs and it's very comfortable to fly. I could fly with it cockeyed
by 40 degrees, 90 degrees, or 180 degrees.
But, when the rubber meets the road, and you DO need to grip it hard, that's likely
going to be during a time of trouble....some time when you're going to actually
exert yourself to push or pull or yank and bank like during some event
or bad turbulence. At that point I would recommend that the yoke be rotated in
the direction that gives you the most arm "solid" control ability. Sit at your
desk right now, and try to push yourself back from your desk with your fist,
and see what position your arm wants to be in. Mine certainly doesn't have
full strength at 40 degrees offset. In fact, it's probably not many degrees
off straight...maybe 5-10 at most.
So my position on it is basically....rotate the grip so that if you needed to do
a hard push to override an autopilot or break a stall or perform a hard maneuver,
you could do it with a locked wrist and be comfortable. And, beyond that,
don't worry about it much because if you're giving the stick your full grip
during normal maneuvers you're probably trying too hard...it's a plane that can
be flown with fingertips and trim alone.
As Dave Mason sung years ago..... "We just disagree", Robin. :) No worries though....this
one falls into that "do whatever you wish"
category as far as I'm concerned. I'm just providing the counterpoint.
Tim
On 7/21/2013 4:58 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Inside. In fact even if I had a stick boot (which I never will) I would run them
inside. With the Infinity wire bundle there are a LOT of wires. I think we
ended up using a common ground so we were able to remove more than a third of
the wires leaving extras in case I wanted to expand in the future. This made
it a lot easier to fish through the stick. On the tail end we used a D Shell style
connector in the rare event we would have to remove the stick. We did the
same set up on all the 2 place RV's as we often removed the Co-pilots stick for
various reasons.
> One note on grip buttons. If I were to do it over again with all the modern tech
and push button items in our cockpit I would now dedicate one button to an
OK or Accept button. We get the most random notifications on these glass displays
that simply request acknowledgement. It would be nice the flick a pinky to
confirm the notification.
> One note on the grips themselves. I see so many installs that have the grip facing
straight forward. I strongly suggest you sit in your seat properly located
forward & aft to see what angle your stick hand lands on the stick. Put the
grip in our hand un-mounted or over the stick to see what feels best. Close your
eyes and drop your hand into position. Do it several times. You will notice
the ideal orientation has significant rotation from directly forward. Mine was
about a 40 Degree rotation. No way would straight forward be comfortable for
long hand flying. Even worse on takeoff when you often have to flick the trim
several times, flip the Flaps Up toggle and push the flip/flop not having the
correct & natural orientation on the grip makes for something less than ideal
button orientation as well as a less natural placement in your hand. Just something
to consider.
>
> Robin
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:Stick Rotation - Was: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
I don't recall doing a power on stall yet in a -10. However, since the
point of the exercise is in a max gross wt and high density altitude
scenario, I would think that one would want to limit power to around
60-70% for such a maneuver if you aren't in fact at full gross.
You want what it feels to take off at gross from Big Bear, Flagstaff,
Leadville, Aspen, etc on a summer day so as to not inadvertently stall
in that situation.
Having all the excess power of a -10 at 30% useful load is not going to
give you any idea of what a typical departure stall feels like.
On 7/22/2013 3:40 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I take that back when doing Power On Stalls in the -10 either solo or with
my light weight instructor and half tanks the -10 feels like you have to stand
it on its tail to cause it to stall. In that instance I find you might want even
more rotation as it feels more like a curling a heavy weight. Man that -10
is hard to stall with power on. I remember being totally drenched after 3 Power
On Stalls, followed by the most gentle and predictable break. I love my RV's!
>
> Robin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
YMMV when you come to a sudden, unplanned stop. Yes, we sell tie downs
($49, available on our web site), but mostly because I'm pretty fanatic
about securing stuff in the cabin and the baggage compartment. Early in my
career I worked for a company that lost a customer after he survived the
crash but not the baggage.
I have tiedowns and a cargo net. Belt and suspenders, literally.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 11:45 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> I did and removed them two years ago for the condition inspection and have
> not put them back in. After flying two hundred hours I found I did not
> need
> them. I do not have things flying up from the back........YMMV
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
> (Building)
> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 12:23 PM
> To: RV-10 Matronics
> Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Tie Downs
>
>
>
> Are many people putting baggage tie downs in the baggage compartment?
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | : RV10-List:Stick Rotation - Was: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
I tried Power On Stalls in several configurations including right near Max Gross
Weight. The Lightly loaded one was particularly memorable that is why I mentioned
it. It is the time I recall having to pull most on an RV stick.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List:Stick Rotation - Was: Brain trust stick wiring poll
I don't recall doing a power on stall yet in a -10. However, since the point of
the exercise is in a max gross wt and high density altitude scenario, I would
think that one would want to limit power to around 60-70% for such a maneuver
if you aren't in fact at full gross.
You want what it feels to take off at gross from Big Bear, Flagstaff, Leadville,
Aspen, etc on a summer day so as to not inadvertently stall in that situation.
Having all the excess power of a -10 at 30% useful load is not going to give you
any idea of what a typical departure stall feels like.
On 7/22/2013 3:40 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I take that back when doing Power On Stalls in the -10 either solo or with
my light weight instructor and half tanks the -10 feels like you have to stand
it on its tail to cause it to stall. In that instance I find you might want even
more rotation as it feels more like a curling a heavy weight. Man that -10
is hard to stall with power on. I remember being totally drenched after 3 Power
On Stalls, followed by the most gentle and predictable break. I love my RV's!
>
> Robin
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:Stalls,,was Stick Rotation - |
The reason it was memorable is it is a flight scenario you will never
get yourself into inadvertently.
The whole point of doing stalls is to do them in the way that they would
inadvertently bite you when you are distracted. Like the power off base
to final turn, the accelerated steep turn about a moose or nudist camp, etc.
You know, when you are totally focused on something outside the plane,
like obstacles off the end of runway on full gross takeoff at 10,000 DA,
and you mind is saying "what is that annoying buzzing outside my ANR
headset".
On 7/22/2013 4:45 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I tried Power On Stalls in several configurations including right near Max Gross
Weight. The Lightly loaded one was particularly memorable that is why I mentioned
it. It is the time I recall having to pull most on an RV stick.
>
> Robin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 4:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List:Stick Rotation - Was: Brain trust stick wiring poll
>
>
> I don't recall doing a power on stall yet in a -10. However, since the point
of the exercise is in a max gross wt and high density altitude scenario, I would
think that one would want to limit power to around 60-70% for such a maneuver
if you aren't in fact at full gross.
> You want what it feels to take off at gross from Big Bear, Flagstaff, Leadville,
Aspen, etc on a summer day so as to not inadvertently stall in that situation.
> Having all the excess power of a -10 at 30% useful load is not going to give
you any idea of what a typical departure stall feels like.
>
> On 7/22/2013 3:40 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>> I take that back when doing Power On Stalls in the -10 either solo or with
my light weight instructor and half tanks the -10 feels like you have to stand
it on its tail to cause it to stall. In that instance I find you might want
even more rotation as it feels more like a curling a heavy weight. Man that -10
is hard to stall with power on. I remember being totally drenched after 3 Power
On Stalls, followed by the most gentle and predictable break. I love my RV's!
>>
>> Robin
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:Stick Rotation - Was: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
On 7/22/2013 6:40 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> My main point about stick grip rotation was less about an absolute number and
more about avoiding blindly installing a grip (especially an Infinity Grip) straight
forward. 10 degrees, 40 degrees whatever you want just don't near permanently
affix your grip without some forethought. I say especially an Infinity
Grip because they seem to be more "molded" than say the Tosten grips.
Good point. I have flown with a stick that had a bicycle grip with the
'knuckles' straight forward. Really uncomfortable. You can get a good
idea fo the angle if you place your hand in a 'loose grip' and see where
the thumb intersection is in relation to the 2nd or 3rd finger joints.
Just hold the stick grip where it's comfortable. I always thought a
Tosten grip would work really well in an airplane with a center stick.
Linn
> As for the desk test mentioned below maybe pushing away gives an ideal rotation
of 5-10 but I doubt pulling gives you the same result. I hope to never have
to exert that much pressure on an RV stick. I take that back when doing Power
On Stalls in the -10 either solo or with my light weight instructor and half
tanks the -10 feels like you have to stand it on its tail to cause it to stall.
In that instance I find you might want even more rotation as it feels more like
a curling a heavy weight. Man that -10 is hard to stall with power on. I remember
being totally drenched after 3 Power On Stalls, followed by the most gentle
and predictable break. I love my RV's!
>
> Robin
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 6:06 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brain trust stick wiring poll
>
>
> While usually Robin and I are on the same page, here I differ a bit.
> I think too much is made of the rotating of the grip. Yeah, you will want it
rotated slightly, but I don't think any major rotation is warranted.
> I would probably be more likely to recommend AGAINST going very far in rotation
and here's why...
>
> When flying the RV-10, even during landing, I rarely use more than
> 2 or 3 fingertips on the stick....LITERALLY. You just give it gentle nudges
with 1 or 2 fingers and it does what you want. Honestly I never ever have the
need to grab the grip with a full hand on most flights. You could throw an mis-shapen
blob of rocks on the end of the stick and I could fly with it, because
gripping it is just not something you would do for hours on end. Your forearm
rests on your legs and it's very comfortable to fly. I could fly with it cockeyed
by 40 degrees, 90 degrees, or 180 degrees.
>
> But, when the rubber meets the road, and you DO need to grip it hard, that's
likely going to be during a time of trouble....some time when you're going to
actually exert yourself to push or pull or yank and bank like during some event
or bad turbulence. At that point I would recommend that the yoke be rotated
in the direction that gives you the most arm "solid" control ability. Sit at
your desk right now, and try to push yourself back from your desk with your fist,
and see what position your arm wants to be in. Mine certainly doesn't have
full strength at 40 degrees offset. In fact, it's probably not many degrees
off straight...maybe 5-10 at most.
>
> So my position on it is basically....rotate the grip so that if you needed to
do a hard push to override an autopilot or break a stall or perform a hard maneuver,
you could do it with a locked wrist and be comfortable. And, beyond that,
don't worry about it much because if you're giving the stick your full grip
during normal maneuvers you're probably trying too hard...it's a plane that
can be flown with fingertips and trim alone.
>
> As Dave Mason sung years ago..... "We just disagree", Robin. :) No worries though....this
one falls into that "do whatever you wish"
> category as far as I'm concerned. I'm just providing the counterpoint.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 7/21/2013 4:58 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>> Inside. In fact even if I had a stick boot (which I never will) I would run
them inside. With the Infinity wire bundle there are a LOT of wires. I think we
ended up using a common ground so we were able to remove more than a third of
the wires leaving extras in case I wanted to expand in the future. This made
it a lot easier to fish through the stick. On the tail end we used a D Shell
style connector in the rare event we would have to remove the stick. We did the
same set up on all the 2 place RV's as we often removed the Co-pilots stick
for various reasons.
>> One note on grip buttons. If I were to do it over again with all the modern
tech and push button items in our cockpit I would now dedicate one button to an
OK or Accept button. We get the most random notifications on these glass displays
that simply request acknowledgement. It would be nice the flick a pinky
to confirm the notification.
>> One note on the grips themselves. I see so many installs that have the grip
facing straight forward. I strongly suggest you sit in your seat properly located
forward & aft to see what angle your stick hand lands on the stick. Put the
grip in our hand un-mounted or over the stick to see what feels best. Close
your eyes and drop your hand into position. Do it several times. You will notice
the ideal orientation has significant rotation from directly forward. Mine
was about a 40 Degree rotation. No way would straight forward be comfortable for
long hand flying. Even worse on takeoff when you often have to flick the trim
several times, flip the Flaps Up toggle and push the flip/flop not having the
correct & natural orientation on the grip makes for something less than ideal
button orientation as well as a less natural placement in your hand. Just something
to consider.
>>
>> Robin
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Website address?
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 22, 2013, at 7:34 PM, Dave Saylor
wrote:
> YMMV when you come to a sudden, unplanned stop. Yes, we sell tie downs ($
49, available on our web site), but mostly because I'm pretty fanatic about s
ecuring stuff in the cabin and the baggage compartment. Early in my career I
worked for a company that lost a customer after he survived the crash but n
ot the baggage.
>
> I have tiedowns and a cargo net. Belt and suspenders, literally.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 11:45 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>>
>> I did and removed them two years ago for the condition inspection and hav
e
>> not put them back in. After flying two hundred hours I found I did not n
eed
>> them. I do not have things flying up from the back........YMMV
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> N423CF
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
>> (Building)
>> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 12:23 PM
>> To: RV-10 Matronics
>> Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Tie Downs
>>
>>
>>
>> Are many people putting baggage tie downs in the baggage compartment?
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> --
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> Dave Fritzsche
>> 40813
>> Puyallup, WA
>> Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
Third item down . . . http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.html
Tim
On 7/22/2013 5:45 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
> Website address?
>
> Rob Kermanj
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 22, 2013, at 7:34 PM, Dave Saylor
> > wrote:
>
>> YMMV when you come to a sudden, unplanned stop. Yes, we sell tie
>> downs ($49, available on our web site), but mostly because I'm pretty
>> fanatic about securing stuff in the cabin and the baggage
>> compartment. Early in my career I worked for a company that lost a
>> customer after he survived the crash but not the baggage.
>>
>> I have tiedowns and a cargo net. Belt and suspenders, literally.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 11:45 AM, Rene Felker > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> I did and removed them two years ago for the condition inspection
>> and have
>> not put them back in. After flying two hundred hours I found I
>> did not need
>> them. I do not have things flying up from the back........YMMV
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> N423CF
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> ] On Behalf Of Dave
>> Fritzsche
>> (Building)
>> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 12:23 PM
>> To: RV-10 Matronics
>> Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Tie Downs
>>
>> >
>>
>> Are many people putting baggage tie downs in the baggage compartment?
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> --
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> Dave Fritzsche
>> 40813
>> Puyallup, WA
>> Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
--
Tim Farrell -
Aircrafters -
Owner/Manager -
(831) 722-9141 -
www.aircraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
Put them in and never used them,,,, so I removed them.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Dave Fritzsche (Building
) =0ATo: RV-10 Matronics =0ASe
nt: Monday, July 22, 2013 1:22 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Baggage Tie Downs
itz(at)bpgsim.com>=0A=0AAre many people putting baggage tie downs in the bagga
ge compartment?=0A=0ADave=0A=0A-- =0A~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=0ADave Fritzsche=0A4081
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Just a quick post to let everybody know that we're on-site, sites are staked out
and the group is located along 54th St, just south of Lindbergh. The tags will
be picked up in the morning to make it official. I'll send more details to
those camping with us tomorrow.
It's raining now but the long term forecast looks spectacular! It also appears
to be more crowded than in past years and we haven't yet been able to secure
any picnic tables...
Feel free to swing by even if not camping with us. As always, we'll have the coffee
going in the mornings!
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405128#405128
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | AirVenture trams run on Sunday? |
I'm soliciting list insight into tram availability Sunday at OSH. This
will be my first time arriving at OSH the day before the show officially
starts. I'll need to get from homebuilt parking over to the FBO area to
get my car.
Thanks,
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 400 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fast When They Don't Have To Be |
Just an FYI.... in Texas the tax on planes is the same as the income tax...
.. ZERO=0A=0ADon=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Bob T
urner =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Monda
y, July 22, 2013 3:23 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re: Fast When They Don't Hav
lum.rpi.edu>=0A=0AJust remember that it will need to be renewed 3 years fro
m now (July) not 3 years from when you get your A/W certificate.=0A=0AHere
in CA tax is assessed on property you own on Jan first. I was careful to no
t send in the application until after that. Nevertheless, I got a letter fr
om the tax assessor asking, "How long have you owned this aircraft?". I rep
lied that as I had no A/W certificate, that I did not yet own any airplane,
just airplane parts. That seemed to work, they left me alone until the nex
t year.=0A=0AThey are still appraising it for more than it is insured for,
but that's another story.=0A=0A--------=0ABob Turner=0ARV-10 QB=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
I built mine from the hinge material used to secure the cowls, basically
made a few holes and pop riveted them in, cost about.. $1 dollar in pop
rivets and spare parts. I use it on every flight for holding down a bin with
extra oil, plexi cleaner, tie down material, chocks (made from spare angle),
etc.. I have a rug in the area as well, cut around the hinges.. I used a tie
down net from my motorcycle, but can be easily acquired from the car dept.
in Walmart.
Put the tie down in, they dont take much space and it's there if you need
it for whatever that may be. If you decide not to do so, just dont practice
negative G's with anything back there. Keep in mind I do not use the tie
down for large luggage any for smaller pieces I want secured.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Fritzsche (Building)
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 11:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Tie Downs
Are many people putting baggage tie downs in the baggage compartment?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture trams run on Sunday? |
Tim,
The tram does not go to the FBO, call the "Welcom Wagon" they can take you
where ever. I don't have their number but they are right next to the sign
in area at the flight line.
Dick Sipp
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 10:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AirVenture trams run on Sunday?
I'm soliciting list insight into tram availability Sunday at OSH. This
will be my first time arriving at OSH the day before the show officially
starts. I'll need to get from homebuilt parking over to the FBO area to
get my car.
Thanks,
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 400 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture trams run on Sunday? |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
They've got busses that go that way. Just go in and work your way to the bu
s pickup and ride it all the way around 9/27. It shouldn't be too bad at al
l from the RV parking area.
Tim
On Jul 22, 2013, at 9:27 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> I'm soliciting list insight into tram availability Sunday at OSH. This wil
l be my first time arriving at OSH the day before the show officially starts
. I'll need to get from homebuilt parking over to the FBO area to get my ca
r.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 400 hrs
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture trams run on Sunday? |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Tim,
The trams don't run over to the FBO but I can probably help. I sent you an
email offline with my contact info.
Bob
On Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 9:27 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> I'm soliciting list insight into tram availability Sunday at OSH. This
> will be my first time arriving at OSH the day before the show officially
> starts. I'll need to get from homebuilt parking over to the FBO area to
> get my car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 400 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture trams run on Sunday? |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Red Warbird tram to North Forty Yellow school bus over to Basket.
John
On Jul 22, 2013 7:30 PM, "Tim Lewis" wrote:
>
> I'm soliciting list insight into tram availability Sunday at OSH. This
> will be my first time arriving at OSH the day before the show officially
> starts. I'll need to get from homebuilt parking over to the FBO area to
> get my car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 400 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture trams run on Sunday? |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Yup. I said busses. I'm not sure the welcome wagon would go over there....they
would go to home bullseye HQ and to Scholler though. The trams for anywhere
internal. So no matter where you want to go there's a way.
On Jul 22, 2013, at 10:07 PM, "Dick & Vicki Sipp" wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> The tram does not go to the FBO, call the "Welcom Wagon" they can take you where
ever. I don't have their number but they are right next to the sign in area
at the flight line.
>
> Dick Sipp
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Tim Lewis
> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 10:27 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: AirVenture trams run on Sunday?
>
>
> I'm soliciting list insight into tram availability Sunday at OSH. This
> will be my first time arriving at OSH the day before the show officially
> starts. I'll need to get from homebuilt parking over to the FBO area to
> get my car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 400 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AirVenture trams run on Sunday? |
| From: | Richard McBride <rick.mcbride(at)me.com> |
Tim,
Ask for a ride at homebuilt registration. We get a ride in their open air minivan
over to Basler every year to get our car. Donate a couple of bucks for operational
expenses.
Rick McBride
On Jul 22, 2013, at 10:27 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> I'm soliciting list insight into tram availability Sunday at OSH. This will be
my first time arriving at OSH the day before the show officially starts. I'll
need to get from homebuilt parking over to the FBO area to get my car.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 400 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
| From: | "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I installed baggage tie downs both in the baggage compartment and behind the copilot seat. I use 'em... Very handy to secure sandbags at the moment. It would seem counter intuitive to not secure baggage and/or loose items. These were easy to install... http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.html
Cheers,
Jay
433RV - Phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405157#405157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
| From: | "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I have Tosten grips and like them a lot. I ran the wires inside the stick (a pain)
and then decided to use the Flightline stick covers. Does wiring inside or
outside matter? Not much. Once you get in the plane and close the door, all you
see is the panel and outside.
I did wire in DB15 connectors and am glad I did so as they've been in and out several
times.
Be advised that lots of folks (me included) have had to bend the sticks to allow
for adequate fwd clearance. I used a mandrel that my ME buddy made instead of
a hydraulic press.
Cheers,
Jay
433RV - Phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405158#405158
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
Those look nice but I don't see any added utility to the D-ring type
from the hardware store. What am I missing???
Linn ..... installing FAB
On 7/23/2013 10:17 AM, hotwheels wrote:
>
> I installed baggage tie downs both in the baggage compartment and behind the copilot seat. I use 'em... Very handy to secure sandbags at the moment. It would seem counter intuitive to not secure baggage and/or loose items. These were easy to install... http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.html
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
> 433RV - Phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405157#405157
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
Those of you that used DB15 and DB 25 connectors and ran the wires inside
the stick, I suppose that you are not able to pull the grips off without
unsoldering the DB connectors, because they don't fit through the stick,
right?
Carlos
-----Mensagem original-----
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de hotwheels
Enviada: 23 de julho de 2013 15:23
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: RV10-List: Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll
I have Tosten grips and like them a lot. I ran the wires inside the stick (a
pain) and then decided to use the Flightline stick covers. Does wiring
inside or outside matter? Not much. Once you get in the plane and close the
door, all you see is the panel and outside.
I did wire in DB15 connectors and am glad I did so as they've been in and
out several times.
Be advised that lots of folks (me included) have had to bend the sticks to
allow for adequate fwd clearance. I used a mandrel that my ME buddy made
instead of a hydraulic press.
Cheers,
Jay
433RV - Phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405158#405158
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
I don't know how much the D-rings weigh, but I bet these are much lighter. They
are made from extruded aluminum hinge. Plus they have a little lip so they are
easy flip up with your finger.
Tim
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 23, 2013, at 7:36 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Those look nice but I don't see any added utility to the D-ring type from the
hardware store. What am I missing???
> Linn ..... installing FAB
>
> On 7/23/2013 10:17 AM, hotwheels wrote:
>>
>> I installed baggage tie downs both in the baggage compartment and behind the copilot seat. I use 'em... Very handy to secure sandbags at the moment. It would seem counter intuitive to not secure baggage and/or loose items. These were easy to install... http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.html
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jay
>> 433RV - Phase 1
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405157#405157
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
There's no way to get the solder-cup connectors through the stick socket
without really weakening the socket. Just drill a hole the size you
need for the number of wires. I have one stick with the connector on to
do testing. I'll have to pull the wires from the connector and feed them
through the hole and re-insert them back into the housing .... very
carefully!!!!
I'm a NASA certified solderer and have good tools but I HATE solder cup
DB connectors. I changed out all my solder cup connectors for crimp-on
pins.
I had to pull a lot of wires loose from my DB connectors because I can't
see or can't count!!!! ;-)
Using the crimp pins also helps when you want to add a wire to a
connector that's buried down in the innards where you can't solder well.
You can get connectors, shells, pins, crimper and removal tool at
http://steinair.com/. No, I don't get any discount!!!
If you're replacing solder cups with crimps you can use the shells you
have. I used DB connectors for all the low current cabling and Molex
for the high current ones. Molex for the same reasons ... removeable
and crimp. I have ratcheting crimp tools, one for lugs one for DB pins
and one for molex pins. Pricey, but well worth it to make good
air-tight connections. You can't go wrong using the proper tools.
Linn
On 7/23/2013 11:39 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Those of you that used DB15 and DB 25 connectors and ran the wires inside
> the stick, I suppose that you are not able to pull the grips off without
> unsoldering the DB connectors, because they don't fit through the stick,
> right?
>
> Carlos
>
>
> -----Mensagem original-----
> De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de hotwheels
> Enviada: 23 de julho de 2013 15:23
> Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Assunto: RV10-List: Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll
>
>
> I have Tosten grips and like them a lot. I ran the wires inside the stick (a
> pain) and then decided to use the Flightline stick covers. Does wiring
> inside or outside matter? Not much. Once you get in the plane and close the
> door, all you see is the panel and outside.
>
> I did wire in DB15 connectors and am glad I did so as they've been in and
> out several times.
>
> Be advised that lots of folks (me included) have had to bend the sticks to
> allow for adequate fwd clearance. I used a mandrel that my ME buddy made
> instead of a hydraulic press.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
> 433RV - Phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405158#405158
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
Ok, Linn, I was not only referring to unsoldering but also to "uncrimping".
What I meant is that, after you ran the fat blue cable inside the stick, and
you install the DB connector, you will never be able to pull off the
Infinity (or other) grip without cutting the wires.
Carlos
P.S. - if you would be interested in crossing the big pond and come to
Europe, I could use a NASA certified solderer! I hate installing DB
connectors inside the fuselage.
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Linn Walters
Enviada: 23 de julho de 2013 17:18
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll
There's no way to get the solder-cup connectors through the stick socket
without really weakening the socket. Just drill a hole the size you need
for the number of wires. I have one stick with the connector on to do
testing. I'll have to pull the wires from the connector and feed them
through the hole and re-insert them back into the housing .... very
carefully!!!!
I'm a NASA certified solderer and have good tools but I HATE solder cup DB
connectors. I changed out all my solder cup connectors for crimp-on pins.
I had to pull a lot of wires loose from my DB connectors because I can't see
or can't count!!!! ;-)
Using the crimp pins also helps when you want to add a wire to a connector
that's buried down in the innards where you can't solder well.
You can get connectors, shells, pins, crimper and removal tool at
http://steinair.com/. No, I don't get any discount!!!
If you're replacing solder cups with crimps you can use the shells you have.
I used DB connectors for all the low current cabling and Molex for the high
current ones. Molex for the same reasons ... removeable and crimp. I have
ratcheting crimp tools, one for lugs one for DB pins and one for molex pins.
Pricey, but well worth it to make good air-tight connections. You can't go
wrong using the proper tools.
Linn
On 7/23/2013 11:39 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
Those of you that used DB15 and DB 25 connectors and ran the wires inside
the stick, I suppose that you are not able to pull the grips off without
unsoldering the DB connectors, because they don't fit through the stick,
right?
Carlos
-----Mensagem original-----
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de hotwheels
Enviada: 23 de julho de 2013 15:23
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: RV10-List: Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll
I have Tosten grips and like them a lot. I ran the wires inside the stick (a
pain) and then decided to use the Flightline stick covers. Does wiring
inside or outside matter? Not much. Once you get in the plane and close the
door, all you see is the panel and outside.
I did wire in DB15 connectors and am glad I did so as they've been in and
out several times.
Be advised that lots of folks (me included) have had to bend the sticks to
allow for adequate fwd clearance. I used a mandrel that my ME buddy made
instead of a hydraulic press.
Cheers,
Jay
433RV - Phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405158#405158
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
With crimped pins I don't you'd need to cut the wires. After you extracted the
pins from the D-sub connector, the diameter of the mass of freed pins would be
close to that of the "blue" wire, or at least close enough to allow you to pull
it all back up through the stick.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, Purple Pilots, VAF, and RVairspace
RV-10 N728TT
Empacone, Wings, Fuse, Finishing
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405175#405175
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
You don't "un-crimp", just simply pull the pins out of the connector.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 23, 2013, at 12:35 PM, "Carlos Trigo" wrote:
Ok, Linn, I was not only referring to unsoldering but also to =9Cuncri
mping=9D.
What I meant is that, after you ran the fat blue cable inside the stick, and
you install the DB connector, you will never be able to pull off the Infini
ty (or other) grip without cutting the wires
Carlos
P.S. =93 if you would be interested in crossing the big pond and come t
o Europe, I could use a NASA certified solderer! I hate installing DB connec
tors inside the fuselage
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matr
onics.com] Em nome de Linn Walters
Enviada: 23 de julho de 2013 17:18
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll
There's no way to get the solder-cup connectors through the stick socket wit
hout really weakening the socket. Just drill a hole the size you need for t
he number of wires. I have one stick with the connector on to do testing. I
'll have to pull the wires from the connector and feed them through the hole
and re-insert them back into the housing .... very carefully!!!!
I'm a NASA certified solderer and have good tools but I HATE solder cup DB c
onnectors. I changed out all my solder cup connectors for crimp-on pins.
I had to pull a lot of wires loose from my DB connectors because I can't see
or can't count!!!! ;-)
Using the crimp pins also helps when you want to add a wire to a connector t
hat's buried down in the innards where you can't solder well.
You can get connectors, shells, pins, crimper and removal tool at http://ste
inair.com/. No, I don't get any discount!!!
If you're replacing solder cups with crimps you can use the shells you have.
I used DB connectors for all the low current cabling and Molex for the hig
h current ones. Molex for the same reasons ... removeable and crimp. I hav
e ratcheting crimp tools, one for lugs one for DB pins and one for molex pin
s. Pricey, but well worth it to make good air-tight connections. You can't
go wrong using the proper tools.
Linn
On 7/23/2013 11:39 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
Those of you that used DB15 and DB 25 connectors and ran the wires inside
the stick, I suppose that you are not able to pull the grips off without
unsoldering the DB connectors, because they don't fit through the stick,
right?
Carlos
-----Mensagem original-----
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de hotwheels
Enviada: 23 de julho de 2013 15:23
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: RV10-List: Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll
I have Tosten grips and like them a lot. I ran the wires inside the stick (a
pain) and then decided to use the Flightline stick covers. Does wiring
inside or outside matter? Not much. Once you get in the plane and close the
door, all you see is the panel and outside.
I did wire in DB15 connectors and am glad I did so as they've been in and
out several times.
Be advised that lots of folks (me included) have had to bend the sticks to
allow for adequate fwd clearance. I used a mandrel that my ME buddy made
instead of a hydraulic press.
Cheers,
Jay
433RV - Phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405158#405158
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
http://www.matronic================
http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp;
--> http://www.matronics.com/c
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
==========================
========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll |
The crimp DB pins come out of the shell using the removal tool. If you
'stagger' the pins and tape them down so they're not right next to each
other they'll fit through a hole better. I thought I drilled a 1/4"
hole but it may be a 5/16." I have 24 wires (infinity) that fit through
the hole I drilled. You can tie all the 'common' wires together and
only run 1 common wire through the hole.
Linn
On 7/23/2013 12:35 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Ok, Linn, I was not only referring to unsoldering but also to
> "uncrimping".
>
> What I meant is that, after you ran the fat blue cable inside the
> stick, and you install the DB connector, you will never be able to
> pull off the Infinity (or other) grip without cutting the wires...
>
> Carlos
>
> P.S. -- if you would be interested in crossing the big pond and come
> to Europe, I could use a NASA certified solderer! I hateinstalling DB
> connectors inside the fuselage...
>
> *De:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *Em nome de *Linn Walters
> *Enviada:* 23 de julho de 2013 17:18
> *Para:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Assunto:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll
>
> There's no way to get the solder-cup connectors through the stick
> socket without really weakening the socket. Just drill a hole the
> size you need for the number of wires. I have one stick with the
> connector on to do testing. I'll have to pull the wires from the
> connector and feed them through the hole and re-insert them back into
> the housing .... very carefully!!!!
>
> I'm a NASA certified solderer and have good tools but I HATE solder
> cup DB connectors. I changed out all my solder cup connectors for
> crimp-on pins.
>
> I had to pull a lot of wires loose from my DB connectors because I
> can't see or can't count!!!! ;-)
>
> Using the crimp pins also helps when you want to add a wire to a
> connector that's buried down in the innards where you can't solder well.
> You can get connectors, shells, pins, crimper and removal tool at
> http://steinair.com/. No, I don't get any discount!!!
>
> If you're replacing solder cups with crimps you can use the shells you
> have. I used DB connectors for all the low current cabling and Molex
> for the high current ones. Molex for the same reasons ... removeable
> and crimp. I have ratcheting crimp tools, one for lugs one for DB
> pins and one for molex pins. Pricey, but well worth it to make good
> air-tight connections. You can't go wrong using the proper tools.
> Linn
>
> On 7/23/2013 11:39 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Those of you that used DB15 and DB 25 connectors and ran the wires inside
>
> the stick, I suppose that you are not able to pull the grips off without
>
> unsoldering the DB connectors, because they don't fit through the stick,
>
> right?
>
>
>
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Mensagem original-----
>
> De:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de hotwheels
>
> Enviada: 23 de julho de 2013 15:23
>
> Para:rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Assunto: RV10-List: Re: Brain trust stick wiring poll
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have Tosten grips and like them a lot. I ran the wires inside the stick
(a
>
> pain) and then decided to use the Flightline stick covers. Does wiring
>
> inside or outside matter? Not much. Once you get in the plane and close the
>
> door, all you see is the panel and outside.
>
>
>
> I did wire in DB15 connectors and am glad I did so as they've been in and
>
> out several times.
>
>
>
> Be advised that lots of folks (me included) have had to bend the sticks to
>
> allow for adequate fwd clearance. I used a mandrel that my ME buddy made
>
> instead of a hydraulic press.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jay
>
> 433RV - Phase 1
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405158#405158
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
>
> No virus found in this message.
>
> Checked by AVG -www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
>
>
>
>
> * *http://www.matronic================
> http://forums.matronics.com- List Contribution Web generous
> nbsp; --> http://www.matronics.com/c
> * *
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
After the success of the 2012 OSH potluck dinner, I've decided to put on
another cookout this year (maybe I'm just a glutton for punishment...)
This year, instead of dealing with the coordination and uncertainty of a
potluck style dinner, I'm thinking I'm just going to get the majority of
the food myself, and rely on the donation bucket. If people want to bring
some miscellaneous side dishes or desserts or beers, that's great too!
The location of the cookout is going to be the RV10 HQ on 54th Street just
south of Lindbergh (Oak Lane), in Camp Scholler.
As for the date and time, I'm thinking Wednesday, July 31st, starting
around 5:30-6, and going till 8. The night airshow/Terrafugia demo start at
8PM that same night.
I'd love to hear your feed back on whether this is a great/terrible idea.
Thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Great idea Ed, thanks for stepping up to the plate!
Bob
On Tuesday, July 23, 2013, Ed Kranz wrote:
> After the success of the 2012 OSH potluck dinner, I've decided to put on
> another cookout this year (maybe I'm just a glutton for punishment...)
>
> This year, instead of dealing with the coordination and uncertainty of a
> potluck style dinner, I'm thinking I'm just going to get the majority of
> the food myself, and rely on the donation bucket. If people want to bring
> some miscellaneous side dishes or desserts or beers, that's great too!
>
> The location of the cookout is going to be the RV10 HQ on 54th Street just
> south of Lindbergh (Oak Lane), in Camp Scholler.
>
> As for the date and time, I'm thinking Wednesday, July 31st, starting
> around 5:30-6, and going till 8. The night airshow/Terrafugia demo start at
> 8PM that same night.
>
>
> I'd love to hear your feed back on whether this is a great/terrible idea.
> Thoughts?
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ganster" <taganster(at)gmail.com> |
Wondering if there will be any CFI RV10 owners able to do 1 Hr. of dual
while you are here at OSH? I am ready to take my completed 10 on it=92s
maiden flight and my insurer is requiring 1 hr. in make and model. I am
located at CLI 1 hr. north of OSH. You can reply to this email or
contact me directly at 920-213-9307.
Tom Ganster, 40778, awaiting my airworthiness inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Great idea. My wife and I would love to came. If we can bring something, let us
know. If you want to buy everything (a big job but probably the best way to go),
may I suggest that you prepare a tentative menu and then ask people to reserve
a place thru a simple email and then after ascertaining the cost, to sell
tickets for food and separate tickets for alcohol or beer. If you need tickets,
I have a new roll that I would be delighted to donate. :D
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405215#405215
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I have a very lightly finished plane 1720# and need about 40-50# in the aft baggage
area (removed for overnighters with baggage) when flying with one or two
folks up front. I use two "billets" of lead shot placed in a 2" ABS pipe. This
way the lead is isolated and clean. The two "billets" take up almost no space.
I secure them with lots of bungees and have tie-down eyes also that I got from
a trashed Cessna. The Cessna tie-downs are really neat and they are removable
- they screw into a #10 nut plate.
For the nay sayers on baggage tie downs...........Why wear a seat belt if the crap
in the back is going to bash your head and back in the event of a crash?
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405216#405216
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Warning, thread drift...
Why not carry 5 or more gallons of water in collapsible plastic jugs? If you have
to fly somewhere solo to pick up a full load, it's easy to pour out the water;
not so great to pour out lead shot!
Btw , I do not consider 1720 lbs to be particularly light for a ten.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405217#405217
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
| From: | "Barry" <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> |
Amy and I would love to come; we will follow this thread to see what we can bring
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405225#405225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
Well since I started this with saying I removed my tie downs, I feel I need
to at least add one response to the shots (pun intended) being fired.
The baggage compartment of the -10 is somewhat isolated from the passenger
compartment by the rear seats, so movement of items is restricted in flight.
I understand the point that if you have a sudden stop that everything loose
is moving forward. But on the other hand, I do not fly around ever with two
20 pound slugs in my baggage compartment.....I just land the airplane when I
am light...don't need any weight in the back to help and pull the flaps up
just a little if I am extremely light (rear seats removed). My CG is aft of
Vans due to a larger battery and O2 in the back.
But lets be clear, I am not recommending anyone remove their tie downs or
not put them in. It only takes 8 screws for me to put mine back in and if I
ever think I need them, I will do that. If I ever go cargo mode again (rear
seats removed), I am sure to put them back in to hold down what I am
carrying.
I have thought about putting a net between the rear seats and the baggage
compartment....but then the kids would have trouble reaching back to get a
snack during the flight.
If we ever come to a sudden stop, I am sure I will be hit in the back of the
head with an I-pad or two....plus whatever they have not eaten yet. :)
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 9:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Baggage Tie Downs
I have a very lightly finished plane 1720# and need about 40-50# in the aft
baggage area (removed for overnighters with baggage) when flying with one or
two folks up front. I use two "billets" of lead shot placed in a 2" ABS
pipe. This way the lead is isolated and clean. The two "billets" take up
almost no space. I secure them with lots of bungees and have tie-down eyes
also that I got from a trashed Cessna. The Cessna tie-downs are really neat
and they are removable - they screw into a #10 nut plate.
For the nay sayers on baggage tie downs...........Why wear a seat belt if
the crap in the back is going to bash your head and back in the event of a
crash?
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405216#405216
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Based on feedback I've gotten from people, we are going to make the cookout
more of a potluck style dinner, with the option to bring cash instead of
food.
So, like last year, I've created a sign up sheet at:
*http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=BXYH0155*
Please sign up if you're planning on attending! We're not going to turn
anyone away, but it's helpful to have some rough idea of who's bringing
what!
See you all soon!
On Wed, Jul 24, 2013 at 8:21 AM, Barry wrote:
>
> Amy and I would love to come; we will follow this thread to see what we
> can bring
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405225#405225
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Tony bringing brisket, Ed bring pulled pork, you guys are making it tough for somebody
that can't make it. This will be the first OSH in ten years that I've
missed. What I'm going to miss the most is the comradeliness of the RV-10 community.
But I will be there next with my Rv-10. I better be out of phase 1 by then. :^)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
| From: | "eison" <eison1969(at)yahoo.com> |
Ed,
I love the idea and am happy to contribute in whatever manner is helpful. I have
a party of four.
We can bring contributions of cash or goods, whichever is best for you.
We are camping the HQ, so we can finalize things this weekend.
Eric
--------
Eric Ison
RV 10 #40764
N984ED (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405241#405241
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
| From: | larson36(at)aol.com |
Ed
Great Idea
Since I am not camping at Scholer, I will love to attend but contribute fin
ancially.
Larry Klein N420LK
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Jul 24, 2013 3:29 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout
Based on feedback I've gotten from people, we are going to make the cookout
more of a potluck style dinner, with the option to bring cash instead of f
ood.
So, like last year, I've created a sign up sheet at:
http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=BXYH0155
Please sign up if you're planning on attending! We're not going to turn any
one away, but it's helpful to have some rough idea of who's bringing what!
See you all soon!
On Wed, Jul 24, 2013 at 8:21 AM, Barry wrote:
Amy and I would love to come; we will follow this thread to see what we can
bring
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405225#405225
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aerosport Products at Oshkosh |
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
I have had many calls and emails about if we will be at Oshkosh.
I will be there Sunday 7-28 thru 8-1. No booth but should be at the Airplane
in HB parking from 9-1 all days. Also we will be hanging at the RV-10 HQ.
If you need to get a hold of me call this # 614-834-8659 and they will track
me down.
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying 395 hrs
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405261#405261
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Aerosport Products at Oshkosh |
what's your N number??
> Subject: RV10-List: Aerosport Products at Oshkosh
> From: g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com
> Date: Wed=2C 24 Jul 2013 12:47:51 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
com>
>
> I have had many calls and emails about if we will be at Oshkosh.
> I will be there Sunday 7-28 thru 8-1. No booth but should be at the Airpl
ane
> in HB parking from 9-1 all days. Also we will be hanging at the RV-10 HQ.
> If you need to get a hold of me call this # 614-834-8659 and they will tr
ack
> me down.
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Flying 395 hrs
> 40033
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405261#405261
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Aerosport Products at Oshkosh |
N829GW
Geoff Combs
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 5:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aerosport Products at Oshkosh
what's your N number??
> Subject: RV10-List: Aerosport Products at Oshkosh
> From: g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com
> Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 12:47:51 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I have had many calls and emails about if we will be at Oshkosh.
> I will be there Sunday 7-28 thru 8-1. No booth but should be at the
Airplane
> in HB parking from 9-1 all days. Also we will be hanging at the RV-10 HQ.
> If you need to get a hold of me call this # 614-834-8659 and they will
track
> me down.
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Flying 395 hrs
> 40033
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405261#405261
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aerosport Products at Oshkosh |
| From: | "PlaneAround,LLC" <strasnuts(at)gmail.com> |
I'll also be there in N801VR showing a lot of Aerosport Products, PlaneAroun
d, and Garmin stuff. Come try closing my doors on the RV10.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 24, 2013, at 14:08, "Geoff Combs" wro
te:
> N829GW
>
> Geoff Combs
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
> Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 5:06 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aerosport Products at Oshkosh
>
> what's your N number??
>
> > Subject: RV10-List: Aerosport Products at Oshkosh
> > From: g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com
> > Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 12:47:51 -0700
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >
.com>
> >
> > I have had many calls and emails about if we will be at Oshkosh.
> > I will be there Sunday 7-28 thru 8-1. No booth but should be at the Airp
lane
> > in HB parking from 9-1 all days. Also we will be hanging at the RV-10 HQ
.
> > If you need to get a hold of me call this # 614-834-8659 and they will t
rack
> > me down.
> >
> > Geoff
> >
> > --------
> > Geoff Combs
> > RV-10 QB N829GW
> > Flying 395 hrs
> > 40033
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405261#405261
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Enlarging Holes for Conduit in Fuselage |
I would like to run a 1" conduit down each side of the fuselage rear of
the main spar to the tail cone. Both F1034A and F1005A have 5/8 " holes
on either end for wiring in this area. I would have to enlarge those
holes to 1 1/4 " to accommodate the conduit. However I am not sure what
that would do to the integrity of the airplane. Looking in the archives,
others seem to have done this. What type of assurance was found that
this would not weaken the airplane?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Enlarging Holes for Conduit in Fuselage |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
You have a couple options without having such a large hole. Why not run multiple
smaller conduit lines, or use grommets in the existing holes and not use conduit
at all. Additionally you can run lines under the rear seat and baggage
compartment floors.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405280#405280
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Enlarging Holes for Conduit in Fuselage |
| From: | Jason Wodack <psychobob96(at)gmail.com> |
If integrity is a concern, why noy add doblers around the enlarged holes on
the bulkhead?
Cheers,
Jason
On Jul 24, 2013 4:21 PM, "Dave Fritzsche (Building)"
wrote:
> dfritz(at)bpgsim.com>
>
> I would like to run a 1" conduit down each side of the fuselage rear of
> the main spar to the tail cone. Both F1034A and F1005A have 5/8 " holes on
> either end for wiring in this area. I would have to enlarge those holes to
> 1 1/4 " to accommodate the conduit. However I am not sure what that would
> do to the integrity of the airplane. Looking in the archives, others seem
> to have done this. What type of assurance was found that this would not
> weaken the airplane?
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Tie Downs |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I bought the tie downs that Van sells. I like them a lot, but really don't use
them too much. I also bought some baggage netting for Aircraft Spruce. I also
don't use it much.
As far as weight, lead shot costs $3 a pound, while pennies cost $2 a pound. Water
can leak or freeze.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405305#405305
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Enlarging Holes for Conduit in Fuselage |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I did enlarge the holes in my aircraft to run the conduit. I was told by one of
the staff at Vans that it would not compromise the integrity of the air frame.
I did do the minimum of enlargement so that I had to really pull the conduit
through. Also, run an extra string through there if you need to pull another
wire through there in the future.
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405309#405309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Test Fit on the Panel |
... this is fun
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Fit on the Panel |
Glad you continued to fight through life's trials and tribulations to keep going
on the 10... Soon you'll be part of the growing family.
Don McDonald
________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 3:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Test Fit on the Panel
... this is fun
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Test Fit on the Panel |
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
Jeff
Yes, it only gets more fun, although the wiring wasn't all that much fun, tu
rning it all on and seeing it work.. Worth every hour to that point.
First flight will here sooner than you know.
Still remember that day 5 years ago we saw the project and asked if building
the plane would be easy.. Glad to see that you have stuck through it during
the tough times.
Look forward to seeing you in Chino. Call me when the wings need to go on, I
'll fly out and get it done!
Pascal
On Jul 25, 2013, at 6:41 PM, "Don McDonald" wro
te:
> Glad you continued to fight through life's trials and tribulations to keep
going on the 10... Soon you'll be part of the growing family.
> Don McDonald
>
>
> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 3:46 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Test Fit on the Panel
>
>
>
> ... this is fun
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Unveils GTR 200 |
http://www.flyingmag.com/avionics-gear/instrumentaccessories/garmin-unveils
-gtr-200-comm-radio
That's pretty inexpensive for a quality Garmin Comm.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
There is still a certain amount of seat of the pants guess work in aviation underwritting.
This year, the company that covered me last year wanted a small increase,
despite more time in type (and no claims). But a second company quoted
less. Hard to figure. But as long as I can get multiple quotes at least there's
competition for my business.
The reason the "pool" idea doesn't work: everyone thinks they should pay less than
the other guy. And with good reason. Shouldn't the two seat guys, with 1/3
the passengers and half the hull values, pay half or less compared to the RV-10
guys? And should pilots with 1000 hours pay the same as those with 100? etc.
Something no one has mentioned (and the companies won't say much about it either)
is age. At some point - 60, 65, 70,... - they start worrying about a deterioration
in abilities and charge more.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405394#405394
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Yes exactly. Also, the last time it came up, my thought was "there are just too
many others I've met or heard about that I don't want in my risk pool." And
I'm sure there are some who may feel that way about me. Personally, I'd never
want to allow automotive engine conversions in my pool, for instance. But,
some of them feel that way about "lycosaurs". And of course many of us have met
"that guy" who we know is gonna kill himself and/or passengers some day.....but
in my case, it only took a few months from when I knew it, until it happened
at one time. So no, I probably wouldn't join a small risk pool that was built
in such a way.
I think if we all focused on picking the best risk cases to have in the pool, it
could save a lot of money, but to narrow it down to those we "trust" the most,
would turn it into a much smaller pool.
Tim
On Jul 26, 2013, at 11:00 PM, "Bob Turner" wrote:
>
> There is still a certain amount of seat of the pants guess work in aviation underwritting.
This year, the company that covered me last year wanted a small
increase, despite more time in type (and no claims). But a second company quoted
less. Hard to figure. But as long as I can get multiple quotes at least there's
competition for my business.
>
> The reason the "pool" idea doesn't work: everyone thinks they should pay less
than the other guy. And with good reason. Shouldn't the two seat guys, with 1/3
the passengers and half the hull values, pay half or less compared to the RV-10
guys? And should pilots with 1000 hours pay the same as those with 100? etc.
>
> Something no one has mentioned (and the companies won't say much about it either)
is age. At some point - 60, 65, 70,... - they start worrying about a deterioration
in abilities and charge more.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405394#405394
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Fuel system revisited |
Fellow RV-10 builders and aviators
Following some recent considerations about the fuel system to adopt in the
-10 I am building, I am now thinking in putting the "Red cube" flow meter in
the engine compartment, near the mechanical pump, and the filters in the
wings roots, leaving only the fuel pump "buried" in the tunnel.
What do you think about the "red cube" near the mechanical pump?
And what about putting the filters (2) in both wing roots? Do you recommend
putting filters or gascolators here?
Best regards
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system revisited |
Filters in wings, yes....cube by mechanical, not so good....install it between
the servo and spider.
Don McDonald
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel system revisited |
There are a lot of options. I have the filter, fuel pump and flow sender in
the tunnel per plans and have no issues. The fuel totalizer is always
within half a gallon when I fill up. That said, the most accurate place to
put the red cube is between the throttle body and the spider (I did that on
my 8A). So if you go away from plans you may as well put it in the best
spot. Do not however hard mount it to the engine. For the 8A I enclosed
the flow sender in a large fire sleeve. I figured this to be my back up
plan for the 10 if the red cube did not work in the tunnel.
I do not find it difficult to service the filter with it mounted in the
stock position in the tunnel. On annual you are taking the seats out and
tunnel cover off anyway - that's 90% of the effort to get to the fuel
filter.
Filers only - there is no value of installing a gascolator in a low wing
airplane other than the inherent filter element in the gascolator. Water
collects in a gascolator when it is mounted in the lowest spot of the fuel
system. With the aircraft parked water slowly gravity drains to that low
point. The gascolator provides no mechanical water separation function with
flowing fuel. For a low wing airplane you cannot mount the gascolator such
that the inlet is below the bottom of the fuel tank. The fuel tank sump is
the means to detect and remove water from the tank.
Carl
120 hours
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel system revisited
Fellow RV-10 builders and aviators
Following some recent considerations about the fuel system to adopt in the
-10 I am building, I am now thinking in putting the "Red cube" flow meter in
the engine compartment, near the mechanical pump, and the filters in the
wings roots, leaving only the fuel pump "buried" in the tunnel.
What do you think about the "red cube" near the mechanical pump?
And what about putting the filters (2) in both wing roots? Do you recommend
putting filters or gascolators here?
Best regards
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system revisited |
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
I give a 3rd vote for the cube just before spider. Keep it away from pumps w
hen possible. They, sometimes, seem to be affected by the pulsations of the p
umps.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 27, 2013, at 9:46 AM, "Carl Froehlich" w
rote:
> There are a lot of options. I have the filter, fuel pump and flow sender i
n the tunnel per plans and have no issues. The fuel totalizer is always wit
hin half a gallon when I fill up. That said, the most accurate place to put
the red cube is between the throttle body and the spider (I did that on my 8
A). So if you go away from plans you may as well put it in the best spot. D
o not however hard mount it to the engine. For the 8A I enclosed the flow s
ender in a large fire sleeve. I figured this to be my back up plan for the 1
0 if the red cube did not work in the tunnel.
>
> I do not find it difficult to service the filter with it mounted in the st
ock position in the tunnel. On annual you are taking the seats out and tunn
el cover off anyway - that's 90% of the effort to get to the fuel filter.
>
> Filers only - there is no value of installing a gascolator in a low wing a
irplane other than the inherent filter element in the gascolator. Water col
lects in a gascolator when it is mounted in the lowest spot of the fuel syst
em. With the aircraft parked water slowly gravity drains to that low point.
The gascolator provides no mechanical water separation function with flowi
ng fuel. For a low wing airplane you cannot mount the gascolator such that t
he inlet is below the bottom of the fuel tank. The fuel tank sump is the me
ans to detect and remove water from the tank.
>
> Carl
> 120 hours
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
> Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:47 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel system revisited
>
> Fellow RV-10 builders and aviators
>
> Following some recent considerations about the fuel system to adopt in the
-10 I am building, I am now thinking in putting the =9CRed cube
=9D flow meter in the engine compartment, near the mechanical pump, and the f
ilters in the wings roots, leaving only the fuel pump =9Cburied=9D
in the tunnel.
>
> What do you think about the =9Cred cube=9D near the mechanical
pump?
>
> And what about putting the filters (2) in both wing roots? Do you recommen
d putting filters or gascolators here?
>
> Best regards
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Regarding self insurance:
If (IF) you could get 6000 RV owners all moving in the same direction,
that's 500 applications per month to collect, input, store, verify,
etc...geez, I hate just filling out my own once a year! Sounds like a LOT
of work, a lot of individuals to corral, checks to process, files to keep,
etc. Plus claims, accounts, IT--the list goes on. It'd be at least one
full time job. My broker has several long term and well-trained people on
staff. I just don't think it would be a simple, or even worthwhile,
proposition.
But--has anyone approached their broker about a group buy? Maybe we could
get 20 or 30 buyers to pull the trigger all at once. Of course the brokers
pocket some of the premium--that's how they make their living--but if a
group could make the broker's job a little easier some how, maybe they'd
lower their cut enough to make a difference.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel system revisited |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Don't forget that credit scores affect our insurance premiums too. Being debt free
at 38 does have some benefits.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 103
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405473#405473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Actually I was warned (after I was 100% debt free) that NOT having an active home
loan was likely going to LOWER my credit score, and that having a track record
of paying steadily on a mortgage was actually a key thing to having a high
credit score. Also, I had a friend and boss who had far more money, stocks,
income, and things than me that had an issue with his car insurance premium going
up AFTER he paid his house off for that exact reason....there was no active
loan. So to some extent, a small amount of debt can actually boost your credit
rating just because there is something that is able to be tracked so that
people know you're reliable. Its a very odd twist to the whole insurance/credit
thing.
Tim
On Jul 28, 2013, at 12:53 AM, "rv10flyer" wrote:
>
> Don't forget that credit scores affect our insurance premiums too. Being debt
free at 38 does have some benefits.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 103
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405473#405473
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Want To Buy: RV-10 Kit |
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
> Looking for an RV-10 QB kit. Prefer NE location, but any considered.
> High quality non QB also considered. Any state of completion, so long as
> work quality is high.
>
> Please email info to frankdombroski at gmail
>
> Thanks
> Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want To Buy: RV-10 Kit |
Frank=0A-=0APlease find attached the EAA tech report on my completed empe
nnage kit.-Since the wing kit is not fully complete it has not been inspe
cted by the EAA. The wing kit is however more complete than a "Quick Build"
wing kit. The winng is ready to install the pitot of your choice. The Emp
is completed. This will save you hundreds of hours and over $6000 in "quick
Build" charges.=0A-=0AIf you have any questions please email.=0A-=0ASt
eve=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Frank Dombroski <f.d
ombroski(at)yahoo.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Sunday, July 28,
2013 8:48 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re: Want To Buy: RV-10 Kit=0A =0A=0A
=0A-=0A=0ALooking for an RV-10 QB kit.- Prefer NE location, but any con
sidered.- =0AHigh quality non QB also considered.- Any state of complet
ion, so long =0Aas work quality is high.=0A>=0A>Please email info to frankd
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Aveo Engineering Conforma Zip Tips |
To all those lucky enough to be able to attend Oshkosh,=0A-=0AHas anyone
taken the opportunity to visit the Aveo tent to see their Conforma Zip Tips
?=0A-=0AWhat did you think of them?- Are they supplied ready to fit (as
I suspect) or do Aveo supply a kit to fit into the kit supplied wing tips?
=0ADid Aveo mention a price and proposed availability?=0A-=0AI find the c
oncept fascinating even though I have the parts to install PAR36 lights int
o the wings.=0A-=0AWith many thanks,=0A-=0ARodger=0AStill wondering wha
t happened to the sun in a somewhat stormy Perth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Want To Buy: RV-10 Kit |
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
*To clarify my post... I am located in NJ, and prefer a Northeast project,
with a strong preference for a complete set of kits.
Many Thanks,
Frank
From:* Frank Dombroski
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Sent:* Sunday, July 28, 2013 8:48 AM
*Subject:* RV10-List: Re: Want To Buy: RV-10 Kit
Looking for an RV-10 QB kit. Prefer NE location, but any considered. High
quality non QB also considered. Any state of completion, so long as work
quality is high.
Please email info to frankdombroski at gmail
Thanks
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want To Buy: RV-10 Kit |
Frank;
Glad to see you are getting back up and doing the RV-10 again. If I was
still in Hillsborough I would help you out. Maybe next summer well come
out to Somerset and see your progress.
Pascal
From: Frank Dombroski
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 3:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Want To Buy: RV-10 Kit
To clarify my post... I am located in NJ, and prefer a Northeast
project, with a strong preference for a complete set of kits.
Many Thanks,
Frank
From: Frank Dombroski <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 8:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Want To Buy: RV-10 Kit
Looking for an RV-10 QB kit. Prefer NE location, but any considered.
High quality non QB also considered. Any state of completion, so long
as work quality is high.
Please email info to frankdombroski at gmail
Thanks
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bsponcil(at)belinblank.org |
Walking around OSH I noticed Continental is supposedly starting productio
n on a 240HP air cooled, direct drive diesel motor (TD-300 see attachment
). Seems a bit heavy but otherwise it appears to be a potential fit for t
he RV-10 airframe. I'm wondering if anyone has considered this engine for
their -10.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Two reasons it won't work. "Only 230 hp", and weight is more than Cont
IO-550, at least 50 lbs heavier than Lyc IO-540. W&B won't work with that
much wt out front.
While the hp would be sufficient, especially if it was turbo-charged, you
would need the wt to be equal to or less than Lyc O-540. You would also
need someone to build an engine mount for it.
On Tue, Jul 30, 2013 at 8:50 AM, wrote:
> Walking around OSH I noticed Continental is supposedly starting production
> on a 240HP air cooled, direct drive diesel motor (TD-300 see attachment).
> Seems a bit heavy but otherwise it appears to be a potential fit for the
> RV-10 airframe. I'm wondering if anyone has considered this engine for
> their -10.
>
>
> -Brian
> Iowa City, IA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Osh13 Builders Cookout |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Tonight is the night for the builders cookout in Camp Scholler.
Make sure you sign up at http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=BXYH015
5 especially if your planning on bringing some food or drink to share.
Hope to see you all there!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Right on Kelly.... but for quite a while refueling would certainly be an is
sue.... who has diesel at the airport.=0A =0A=0A___________________________
_____=0A From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics
.com =0ASent: Tuesday, July 30, 2013 7:51 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: TD-3
00=0A =0A=0A=0ATwo reasons it won't work. "Only 230 hp", and weight is mor
e than Cont IO-550, at least 50 lbs heavier than Lyc IO-540. W&B won't work
with that much wt out front.=0AWhile the hp would be sufficient, especiall
y if it was turbo-charged, you would need the wt to be equal to or less tha
n Lyc O-540. You would also need someone to build an engine mount for it.
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Tue, Jul 30, 2013 at 8:50 AM, w
rote:=0A=0AWalking around OSH I noticed Continental is supposedly starting
production on a 240HP air cooled, direct drive diesel motor (TD-300 see att
achment).- Seems a bit heavy but otherwise it appears to be a potential f
it for the RV-10 airframe.- I'm wondering if anyone has considered this e
ngine for their -10.=0A>=0A>=0A>-Brian=0A>Iowa City, IA=0A> =0A=0A=0A-
=============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Right on Kelly..... as usual.... but for quite a while refueling would be a
definite challenge.... who has diesel at the airport.=0A =0A=0A___________
_____________________=0A From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv1
0-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, July 30, 2013 7:51 PM=0ASubject: Re:
RV10-List: TD-300=0A =0A=0A=0ATwo reasons it won't work. "Only 230 hp", a
nd weight is more than Cont IO-550, at least 50 lbs heavier than Lyc IO-540
. W&B won't work with that much wt out front.=0AWhile the hp would be suffi
cient, especially if it was turbo-charged, you would need the wt to be equa
l to or less than Lyc O-540. You would also need someone to build an engine
mount for it.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Tue, Jul 30, 2013 at 8:50 AM, wrote:=0A=0AWalking around OSH I noticed Continental is suppos
edly starting production on a 240HP air cooled, direct drive diesel motor (
TD-300 see attachment).- Seems a bit heavy but otherwise it appears to be
a potential fit for the RV-10 airframe.- I'm wondering if anyone has con
sidered this engine for their -10.=0A>=0A>=0A>-Brian=0A>Iowa City, IA=0A>
=================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
It was FAA certified in April 2013. No thanks, I won't support communist China
if I have a choice.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405713#405713
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
At the airport it is called Jet A and virtually all aircraft diesel engines
are designed to run on it. Yes, it has somewhat different additives, but is
a real close cousin to Diesel #2. It could be a problem at airports that
don't have any turbine powered customers, but a lot of crop dusters, King
Airs, Caravans, TBM's etc are creating demand for jet fuel at many "small"
airports. I don't see fueling as much of a limitation. Wt, Bal, and
mounting are likely to be the deal killers.
On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Don McDonald wrote:
> Right on Kelly.... but for quite a while refueling would certainly be an
> issue.... who has diesel at the airport.
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank" rel="nofollo=
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh13 Builders Cookout |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Signed Up, will bring CASH. Thanks!
John Cox
On Jul 31, 2013 7:26 AM, "Ed Kranz" wrote:
> Tonight is the night for the builders cookout in Camp Scholler.
>
> Make sure you sign up at
> http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=BXYH0155 especially if your
> planning on bringing some food or drink to share.
>
> Hope to see you all there!
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bsponcil(at)belinblank.org |
-I could bewrong but the dry weight of the lyc IO-540 is something like
440lbs which wouldmake the TD-300 20lbs heavier rather than 50.And by th
e time you throw in the accessories I?m guessing thatdifference narrows a
bit more.Thesemotors are flying in front of 182s so it doesn't seem like
they could be THAT far out in terms of W&B.I would say the biggest hurdl
e would befabricating a cowling.As someone elsesaid, at least it?s a star
t.
-Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: TD-300
At the airport it is called Jet A and virtually all aircraft diesel engin
es are designed to run on it. Yes, it has somewhat different additives, b
ut is a real close cousin to Diesel #2. It could be a problem at airports
that don't have any turbine powered customers, but a lot of crop dusters
, King Airs, Caravans, TBM's etc are creating demand for jet fuel at many
"small" airports. I don't see fueling as much of a limitation. Wt, Bal,
and mounting are likely to be the deal killers.
On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Don McDonald wrote:
Right on Kelly.... but for quite a while refueling would certainly be an
issue.... who has diesel at the airport.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-="http://www.matronics.com/cont
ribution" target="_blank" rel="nofollo=
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listtp://forums.ma
tronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
-========================
========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I see the power is very similar to an IO-540 at the same RPM.
Anyone know why the rpm's are limited to such a low value? Too much spinning mass?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405721#405721
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
The biggest hurdle is the price tag. With the lawyers controlling what we
pay for aviation related components the price of any new engine will be
governed by liability cost.
Carl
Still dreaming of 91/96UL wide distribution to drive down fuel cost
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bsponcil(at)belinblank.org
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: TD-300
I could be wrong but the dry weight of the lyc IO-540 is something like
440lbs which would make the TD-300 20lbs heavier rather than 50. And by the
time you throw in the accessories I?m guessing that difference narrows a bit
more. These motors are flying in front of 182s so it doesn't seem like they
could be THAT far out in terms of W&B. I would say the biggest hurdle would
be fabricating a cowling. As someone else said, at least it?s a start.
-Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: TD-300
At the airport it is called Jet A and virtually all aircraft diesel engines
are designed to run on it. Yes, it has somewhat different additives, but is
a real close cousin to Diesel #2. It could be a problem at airports that
don't have any turbine powered customers, but a lot of crop dusters, King
Airs, Caravans, TBM's etc are creating demand for jet fuel at many "small"
airports. I don't see fueling as much of a limitation. Wt, Bal, and mounting
are likely to be the deal killers.
On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Don McDonald
wrote:
Right on Kelly.... but for quite a while refueling would certainly be an
issue.... who has diesel at the airport.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-="http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion" target="_blank" rel="nofollo=
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
ce_href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
/forums.matronics.com" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
The Lycoming Operator's Manual puts the IO540-D4A5 engine dry wt as 402
lbs, so yes the wt difference is at least 40 or more lbs. Very significant.
On 7/31/2013 8:26 AM, bsponcil(at)belinblank.org wrote:
>
> I could be wrong but the dry weight of the lyc IO-540 is something
> like 440lbs which would make the TD-300 20lbs heavier rather than
> 50.And by the time you throw in the accessories I?m guessing that
> difference narrows a bit more.These motors are flying in front of 182s
> so it doesn't seem like they could be THAT far out in terms of W&B.I
> would say the biggest hurdle would be fabricating a cowling.As someone
> else said, at least it?s a start.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 31, 2013 10:11 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TD-300
>
> At the airport it is called Jet A and virtually all aircraft
> diesel engines are designed to run on it. Yes, it has somewhat
> different additives, but is a real close cousin to Diesel #2. It
> could be a problem at airports that don't have any turbine powered
> customers, but a lot of crop dusters, King Airs, Caravans, TBM's
> etc are creating demand for jet fuel at many "small" airports. I
> don't see fueling as much of a limitation. Wt, Bal, and mounting
> are likely to be the deal killers.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Don McDonald
> >
> wrote:
>
> Right on Kelly.... but for quite a while refueling would
> certainly be an issue.... who has diesel at the airport.
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank" rel="nofollo=
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> *
>
> ce_href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> /forums.matronics.com" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Diesels are "torque" producers at low rpm, unlike gas engines that tend
to produce more power the higher rpm you can spin them.
On 7/31/2013 9:07 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> I see the power is very similar to an IO-540 at the same RPM.
> Anyone know why the rpm's are limited to such a low value? Too much spinning
mass?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405721#405721
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Wodack <psychobob96(at)gmail.com> |
Most diesels are limited to a low RPM because of the stresses involved with
compression ignition engine. Even most truck/equipment/industrial diesels
redline below 2000RPM.
On Jul 31, 2013 9:10 AM, "Bob Turner" wrote:
>
> I see the power is very similar to an IO-540 at the same RPM.
> Anyone know why the rpm's are limited to such a low value? Too much
> spinning mass?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405721#405721
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Osh13 Builders Cookout |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
My Cummings 6.7 redlines at 3,100 Dodge Pickup.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jason Wodack
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: TD-300
Most diesels are limited to a low RPM because of the stresses involved with
compression ignition engine. Even most truck/equipment/industrial diesels
redline below 2000RPM.
On Jul 31, 2013 9:10 AM, "Bob Turner" > wrote:
>
I see the power is very similar to an IO-540 at the same RPM.
Anyone know why the rpm's are limited to such a low value? Too much spinning
mass?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405721#405721
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Wodack <psychobob96(at)gmail.com> |
Sorry Jim, didn't specify. I was speaking of Heavy truck diesels, heavy
equipment, and industrial engine applications.
Jason
On Jul 31, 2013 10:37 AM, "JimVillani" wrote:
> My Cummings 6.7 redlines at 3,100 Dodge Pickup=85 ****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jason Wodack
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 31, 2013 9:17 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: TD-300****
>
> ** **
>
> Most diesels are limited to a low RPM because of the stresses involved
> with compression ignition engine. Even most truck/equipment/industrial
> diesels redline below 2000RPM.****
>
> On Jul 31, 2013 9:10 AM, "Bob Turner" wrote:****
>
>
> I see the power is very similar to an IO-540 at the same RPM.
> Anyone know why the rpm's are limited to such a low value? Too much
> spinning mass?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405721#405721
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> ****
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
Just for fun can any of you lucky enough to be "on location" find out what p
rop it was certified with? At 17:1 compression ratio a direct drive engine w
ill give a prop a real hard time, which is why Hartzell developed a special o
ne for the SMA engine some years ago. Lots of carbon and $$$ to match, whic
h helped neither W&B nor the pocketbook.
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
On 31.07.2013, at 16:11, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> At the airport it is called Jet A and virtually all aircraft diesel engine
s are designed to run on it. Yes, it has somewhat different additives, but i
s a real close cousin to Diesel #2. It could be a problem at airports that d
on't have any turbine powered customers, but a lot of crop dusters, King Air
s, Caravans, TBM's etc are creating demand for jet fuel at many "small" airp
orts. I don't see fueling as much of a limitation. Wt, Bal, and mounting are
likely to be the deal killers.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Don McDonald
wrote:
> Right on Kelly.... but for quite a while refueling would certainly be an i
ssue.... who has diesel at the airport.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-="http://www.matronics.com/contr
ibution" target="_blank" rel="nofollo=
>
>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com> |
A composite MT prop would make up for some of the weight difference and for t
he rest you might need 5 or 10 lbs in the tail
I remember attending a presentation by Deltahawk maybe 5 years ago. They cl
aimed that the MT prop worked with their engine where as the standard metal p
rops did not. No idea if thats true or not at this point.
Nikolaos Napoli
On Jul 31, 2013, at 11:26 AM, bsponcil(at)belinblank.org wrote:
>
> I could be wrong but the dry weight of the lyc IO-540 is something like 44
0lbs which would make the TD-300 20lbs heavier rather than 50. And by the t
ime you throw in the accessories I?m guessing that difference narrows a bit m
ore. These motors are flying in front of 182s so it doesn't seem like they c
ould be THAT far out in terms of W&B. I would say the biggest hurdle would b
e fabricating a cowling. As someone else said, at least it?s a start.
>
> -Brian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 10:11 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TD-300
>
> At the airport it is called Jet A and virtually all aircraft diesel engine
s are designed to run on it. Yes, it has somewhat different additives, but i
s a real close cousin to Diesel #2. It could be a problem at airports that d
on't have any turbine powered customers, but a lot of crop dusters, King Air
s, Caravans, TBM's etc are creating demand for jet fuel at many "small" airp
orts. I don't see fueling as much of a limitation. Wt, Bal, and mounting are
likely to be the deal killers.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Don McDonald
wrote:
>> Right on Kelly.... but for quite a while refueling would certainly be an i
ssue.... who has diesel at the airport.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-="http://www.matronics.com/cont
ribution" target="_blank" rel="nofollo=
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
>
> ce_href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank"
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> /forums.matronics.com" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.ma
tronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh13 Builders Cookout |
| From: | "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com> |
Ed,
Thank you for hosting a great party. Looking forward to next year.
Bill Ziesenitz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405807#405807
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New RV (and other experimental) t-shirts! |
| From: | "Seansull" <SeanRV10(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Everyone!
I wanted to introduce my new EXPERIMENTAL AVIATION T-SHIRT web store!
www.iFlyShirts.com
I just went live with the first 16 men's designs. Women, youth, and much more on
the way soon! Follow us on Facebook and win FREE stuff!
Thanks!
Sean Sullivan
--------
Sean Sullivan
N116EX (reserved)
RV10 - SB Wings, Emp Complete
Builder #40919
Fort Worth, TX
www.iRV10.com
EAA Chapter 34
http://www.eaa34.org/index.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405842#405842
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv10_superman_mens_blk_ss_117.png
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cowl flaps and Gust Locks. |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I have been suffering from high CHTs during the climb in Oklahoma's hot summer.
I made a cowl flap installation that cured my high temps.
I also made a simple and secure gust lock for the airplane when it is outside.
Both of these ideas were copied from previous builders ideas - thanks Nick and
Robin. I have supplied drawings for each for any that want to do the same.
Greg...
www.nwacaptain.com
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405866#405866
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl flaps and Gust Locks. |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Greg as usual you've engineered some great mods. Well Done! Regarding the
gust locks. I began with a similar installation on a single side. After a
weekend at an away airport w/ gusts up to 60mph, the brace had wobbled Up
so that the unkeyed end came loose and subsequently tore the bracket. I
ended up putting the brace on both side, and have the safety pins in 4
points. It's deal lock solid now.
Deems
On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 10:59 AM, greghale wrote:
>
> I have been suffering from high CHTs during the climb in Oklahoma's hot
> summer. I made a cowl flap installation that cured my high temps.
>
> I also made a simple and secure gust lock for the airplane when it is
> outside.
>
> Both of these ideas were copied from previous builders ideas - thanks Nick
> and Robin. I have supplied drawings for each for any that want to do the
> same.
>
> Greg...
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405866#405866
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
All, while at Oshkosh I had a conversation with the slick mag guys. Joe warned
me of a service bulletin (Slick SB1-98, Lycoming SB 537) which turned into an
AD that should apply to our engines IO540-D4A5 but for some reason does not explicitly
list our model. Instead they make reference to a list of models and
engines with fifth order balancers which the last "5" in our suffix refers to.
The service bulletin calls for mandatory 250 hour inspections of impulse couplings,
ultimately advising replacement of impulse coupled mags with retard breakers
and slick start.
So to the brain trust - what is your interpretation of this SB (a short Google
search will find it)? I wonder why they continue to offer impulse coupled mags
on new IO540-XXX5 engines. When I talked to Lycoming they said, "yup it looks
like this applies to your engine". - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405907#405907
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lammers4699(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH13 RV10 Builder's Cookout |
Amy and I (Peter) had a blast, we met lots of RV-10 builders and saw a
few on the flightline as well. it is a great stimulance to make sure
that I work every free moment on my plane.
Peter Lammers
RV-10, working on baffles and engine installation
EFII fuel injected and electronic ignition IO 540
N469PL reserved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
does it only apply to an impulse mag?
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 4, 2013, at 11:53 AM, "jkreidler" wrote:
All, while at Oshkosh I had a conversation with the slick mag guys. Joe warned
me of a service bulletin (Slick SB1-98, Lycoming SB 537) which turned into an
AD that should apply to our engines IO540-D4A5 but for some reason does not explicitly
list our model. Instead they make reference to a list of models and
engines with fifth order balancers which the last "5" in our suffix refers to.
The service bulletin calls for mandatory 250 hour inspections of impulse couplings,
ultimately advising replacement of impulse coupled mags with retard breakers
and slick start.
So to the brain trust - what is your interpretation of this SB (a short Google
search will find it)? I wonder why they continue to offer impulse coupled mags
on new IO540-XXX5 engines. When I talked to Lycoming they said, "yup it looks
like this applies to your engine". - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405907#405907
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Yes, only impulse mags if it applies at all, I am still very curious why the D4A5
would not have been listed if it applied. At the same time I don't want an
omission on their part to leave us with the same real issue even if the paperwork
didn't follow. - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405923#405923
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Thanks. I just moved and my network access is limited. I can get the 10 ready
for first flight or wire the new house.
Fortunately for me, the engines that Vans sell all have a retard mag.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 4, 2013, at 4:14 PM, "jkreidler" wrote:
>
> Yes, only impulse mags if it applies at all, I am still very curious why the
D4A5 would not have been listed if it applied. At the same time I don't want
an omission on their part to leave us with the same real issue even if the paperwork
didn't follow. - Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405923#405923
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
The way the Lycoming and Slick service bulletins are written at this time,
they do not apply to the C4B5 or D4A5 engines. Given that those engines
were extensively used on the Aztec and Comanche aircraft, if the bulletin
was to apply to them, it would state that. Not saying you shouldn't keep an
eye on the impulse coupling, but the SB names all affected aircraft. Since
the engines normally used in the -10 don't come from any of those aircraft,
probably does not apply.
Of course many of the donor aircraft didn't have problems with Slick mags
because they were originally certified with Bendix mags (which have some of
their own ADs, but are generally more durable and more rebuildable than
Slicks)
On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 8:53 AM, jkreidler wrote:
> jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
>
> All, while at Oshkosh I had a conversation with the slick mag guys. Joe
> warned me of a service bulletin (Slick SB1-98, Lycoming SB 537) which
> turned into an AD that should apply to our engines IO540-D4A5 but for some
> reason does not explicitly list our model. Instead they make reference to
> a list of models and engines with fifth order balancers which the last "5"
> in our suffix refers to. The service bulletin calls for mandatory 250 hour
> inspections of impulse couplings, ultimately advising replacement of
> impulse coupled mags with retard breakers and slick start.
>
> So to the brain trust - what is your interpretation of this SB (a short
> Google search will find it)? I wonder why they continue to offer impulse
> coupled mags on new IO540-XXX5 engines. When I talked to Lycoming they
> said, "yup it looks like this applies to your engine". - Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405907#405907
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Kelly, can you tell me if the Aztec or Comanche came with Slick impulse mags?
I think the problem might be that the D4A5 technically did not come with impulse
mags. For us, Lycoming offered them as an 'upgrade', but still called the
engine a D4A5.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405978#405978
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
jkreidler wrote:
> Kelly, can you tell me if the Aztec or Comanche came with Slick impulse mags?
I think the problem might be that the D4A5 technically did not come with impulse
mags. For us, Lycoming offered them as an 'upgrade', but still called the
engine a D4A5.
Jason, I can tell you that my C4B5 came off an Aztec and it had the Slick impulse
mags on it.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405979#405979
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
David, I glanced at Lycoming SSP-401 which gives the lineage of the engines. Here
is how the IO-540-C4B5 plays out....
IO-540-C4B5 - Same as C1B5 but with more effective counter weights for use with
Hartzell compact propeller
IO-540-C1B5 - Same as O-540-A1D5 but with Bendix fuel injector
O-540-A1D5 - Same as A1B5 except for Retard Breaker Magnetos
O-540-A1B5 - Same as A1A5 except for short propeller governor studs and two impulse
Magnetos
O-540-A1A5 - Same as A1A but one fifth and one sixth order counterweights
O-540-A1A - Two sixth order counterweights
So from the looks of it your engine should have had retard breakers tracing back
to the -A1D5 and a fifth order counterweight traced back to the A1A5...
Is there a more efficient way to find out exactly what accessories were on which
engines?
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405981#405981
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I don't know, Jason. I googled the sb and found this 1999 bulletin from Piper.
Clear from this that the C4B5 on the Aztec was not on the list at that time.
ftp://64.191.142.163/pub/piper%20SE/pa32/ServPubs/VSP-SA/VSP%20117.pdf
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405987#405987
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
The c4b5 does not have the option of impulse coupling. Look up slick magneto and
engine and I believe you will not find that option.
The Aztec engine I first used did not have impulse coupling 1980.
When we were thinking of switching from slick start to impulse we did a intense
search and that is what we found out. Impulse will work but joe at champion really
advises against it.
My two cents
Patrick Thyssen
Ps another note we just found was the k&n filter shrinks over time and needs to
be replaced its not a life time filter.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 5, 2013, at 2:21 PM, "dmaib(at)me.com" wrote:
>
> I don't know, Jason. I googled the sb and found this 1999 bulletin from Piper.
Clear from this that the C4B5 on the Aztec was not on the list at that time.
> ftp://64.191.142.163/pub/piper%20SE/pa32/ServPubs/VSP-SA/VSP%20117.pdf
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> Transition Trainer
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405987#405987
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
I found the same thing this year on the filter. Mine had shrunk
CONSIDERABLY.
I bought a replacement, but didn't replace it yet...first I had to
re-rivet in those
holder tabs that keep it from moving around. Or maybe I did replace it.
I can't remember right now. But, I know the new one will shrink too.
Tim
On 8/5/2013 2:54 PM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
>
> The c4b5 does not have the option of impulse coupling. Look up slick magneto
and engine and I believe you will not find that option.
> The Aztec engine I first used did not have impulse coupling 1980.
> When we were thinking of switching from slick start to impulse we did a intense
search and that is what we found out. Impulse will work but joe at champion
really advises against it.
> My two cents
> Patrick Thyssen
> Ps another note we just found was the k&n filter shrinks over time and needs
to be replaced its not a life time filter.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
No Lycoming engine came with Slick mags until Continental bought Bendix
mags (long after both aircraft were out of production). It was a Textron
corporate decision to change to Slick mags for everything except those
for which there was not a Slick equivalent, like the dual headed single
mag engines.
So no table of differences between engines is going to tell you what
they are currently shipped with. However, ALL new and rebuilt/overhauled
engines from Lycoming will come with Slick mags with the above noted
exception. Changeover was more than 20 years ago.
Service bulletins and ADs are written to either be very specific about
what engines or airframes, OR to say they apply to all engines with this
specific appliance, batch of parts, etc. Almost all lists of parallel
valve O-540 and IO-540 engines suitable for the RV-10 are models with 5
as the last digit. Only a handful of those appear on this Service
Bulletin, so there is some characteristic about the specific engines
they aren't telling you.
I would suggest contacting both Vans and Lycoming to ask their tech
support as to whether the SB applies to the D4A5 engine or not, whether
installed in a Comanche or RV-10, and if so, why the Comanche as a
certified aircraft is not listed on the SB. No need to ask about the
C4B5 because it is an identical engine except for data plate and
governor redline setting.
On 8/5/2013 11:17 AM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Kelly, can you tell me if the Aztec or Comanche came with Slick impulse mags?
I think the problem might be that the D4A5 technically did not come with impulse
mags. For us, Lycoming offered them as an 'upgrade', but still called the
engine a D4A5.
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405978#405978
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
I don't know why an Aztec couldn't have impulse coupled engine. There
are several versions of the engine that do have impulse coupling,
including the C4C5D
the D4A5, the D4B5, etc. Piper and other manufacturers went back and
forth between impulse coupling and retard breaker starting systems quite
a bit back in the sixties and 70s. Only the presence of a vibrator, the
wiring and ignition switch are different. The retard breaker has had
less ADs, both otherwise both are pretty equivalent for starting.
On 8/5/2013 12:54 PM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
>
> The c4b5 does not have the option of impulse coupling. Look up slick magneto
and engine and I believe you will not find that option.
> The Aztec engine I first used did not have impulse coupling 1980.
> When we were thinking of switching from slick start to impulse we did a intense
search and that is what we found out. Impulse will work but joe at champion
really advises against it.
> My two cents
> Patrick Thyssen
> Ps another note we just found was the k&n filter shrinks over time and needs
to be replaced its not a life time filter.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 5, 2013, at 2:21 PM, "dmaib(at)me.com" wrote:
>
>>
>> I don't know, Jason. I googled the sb and found this 1999 bulletin from Piper.
Clear from this that the C4B5 on the Aztec was not on the list at that time.
>> ftp://64.191.142.163/pub/piper%20SE/pa32/ServPubs/VSP-SA/VSP%20117.pdf
>>
>> --------
>> David Maib
>> RV-10 #40559
>> Transition Trainer
>> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405987#405987
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag AD? |
I had the same thing with my filter. Mine shrunk and also was cutting into
the fiberglass. I did replace
Mine at my annual. I prosealed A .03-.04 aluminum ring in the fiberglass
housing. It worked really good. Got the idea from someone else On VAF. My
filter was almost a 1/3 thru the fiberglass. Here is a PDF full scale of the
ring
Geoff
Geoff Combs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Slick Mag AD?
I found the same thing this year on the filter. Mine had shrunk
CONSIDERABLY.
I bought a replacement, but didn't replace it yet...first I had to re-rivet
in those holder tabs that keep it from moving around. Or maybe I did
replace it.
I can't remember right now. But, I know the new one will shrink too.
Tim
On 8/5/2013 2:54 PM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
>
> The c4b5 does not have the option of impulse coupling. Look up slick
magneto and engine and I believe you will not find that option.
> The Aztec engine I first used did not have impulse coupling 1980.
> When we were thinking of switching from slick start to impulse we did a
intense search and that is what we found out. Impulse will work but joe at
champion really advises against it.
> My two cents
> Patrick Thyssen
> Ps another note we just found was the k&n filter shrinks over time and
needs to be replaced its not a life time filter.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Her's what happened both of mine. I had two that I swapped out alternately a
nd this is what happens so I have 570 hr. so it looks like 150 hr will be ti
me to switch to new one.
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