RV10-Archive.digest.vol-jm
August 06, 2013 - September 09, 2013
What cylinders would you use and why?
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406112#406112
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-540-C4B5 Cylinders |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
The choice has as much to do with where you live/base aircraft as
anything else. If you are in a corrosion prone area, like coastal,
near water, etc. then ECI Cerminil treated cylinders, either new or
overhauled will give better service than new Lycoming, which are
nitride treated. Nitride cylinders wear very well, but are very
corrosion prone. If you are in dry climate you might prefer Lycoming
cylinders. New or overhauled will depend on your budget. You can save
about 200-300 per cyl with overhauled.
On Tue, Aug 6, 2013 at 7:30 PM, mds4878 wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to rebuild my engine.
> What cylinders would you use and why?
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40447
> Fuselage almost done.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406112#406112
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Just back from OSH, I had my filter out to clean yesterday. Pretty dirty after
only 50 hours since my last cleaning, but after 200 hrs., I did not notice any
deformation. Do you follow K&N's cleaning instructions, or are there any unique
environmental factors which contribute to the shrinkage?
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406116#406116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Cleaned them just the way k&n says to. I have two of the cleaning /oil kits. Mine
did not look all deformed but shrunk. My buddy here, his shrank more bottom
then top by 1/2 inch. I fly off paved runway. Only thing we could come up with
is, if you flooded the engine for starting it may not like 100ll
Patrick Thyssen
570hr
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 6, 2013, at 11:36 PM, "AirMike" wrote:
>
> Just back from OSH, I had my filter out to clean yesterday. Pretty dirty after
only 50 hours since my last cleaning, but after 200 hrs., I did not notice any
deformation. Do you follow K&N's cleaning instructions, or are there any unique
environmental factors which contribute to the shrinkage?
>
> --------
> See you OSH '13
> Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406116#406116
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Same here. Same thing happened, and I did clean the K&N way with the
K&N kit. I can't say I never flooded the engine, but my guess is
that this is going to be a pretty common problem for people. I'd
put filter keepers on the inside of the filter to prevent it from
pulling in, but then those keepers could end up lodged in the engine
if they snapped off, so I don't think that's really the way to go.
I also don't know if there is a shrinkage limit....like if you let
it shrink and then reposition it in the FAB, maybe you'd eventually
reach a point where it would remain that size and you could use
it indefinitely? Or if you could get a larger one and pre-shrink
it somehow?
Anyway, unless something big happens I don't see it as a major
issue, but it is something you should pay attention to at
annual time.
Tim
On 8/7/2013 4:15 AM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
>
> Cleaned them just the way k&n says to. I have two of the cleaning /oil kits.
Mine did not look all deformed but shrunk. My buddy here, his shrank more bottom
then top by 1/2 inch. I fly off paved runway. Only thing we could come up with
is, if you flooded the engine for starting it may not like 100ll
> Patrick Thyssen
> 570hr
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 6, 2013, at 11:36 PM, "AirMike" wrote:
>
>>
>> Just back from OSH, I had my filter out to clean yesterday. Pretty dirty after
only 50 hours since my last cleaning, but after 200 hrs., I did not notice
any deformation. Do you follow K&N's cleaning instructions, or are there any unique
environmental factors which contribute to the shrinkage?
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '13
>> Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406116#406116
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-540-C4B5 Cylinders |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I agree with Kelly. You can talk to 10 engine shops and get 10 different opinions.
They all seem to have 1 type they won't touch for whatever reason. I personally
like the steel barrel ECI Titans. If you plan to fly at least biweekly,
then you should be fine with steel barrels. Otherwise, the cerminils are a good
way to go. If you're doing it yourself, then the ECI's are nice because they
come assembled and ready to pop in. Also, don't forget the accessories needed,
like silicone valve cover gaskets, possibly new rocker arm bushings, possibly
new piston pins. ECI's include new shroud tube gaskets but may not include shroud
tube clips and lock washers. You may also need new shroud tubes themselves
if you have an old engine.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 6, 2013, at 10:57 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> The choice has as much to do with where you live/base aircraft as
> anything else. If you are in a corrosion prone area, like coastal,
> near water, etc. then ECI Cerminil treated cylinders, either new or
> overhauled will give better service than new Lycoming, which are
> nitride treated. Nitride cylinders wear very well, but are very
> corrosion prone. If you are in dry climate you might prefer Lycoming
> cylinders. New or overhauled will depend on your budget. You can save
> about 200-300 per cyl with overhauled.
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 6, 2013 at 7:30 PM, mds4878 wrote:
>>
>> I'm getting ready to rebuild my engine.
>> What cylinders would you use and why?
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 #40447
>> Fuselage almost done.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406112#406112
>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: C/S-13 SPINNER FOR SALE |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> |
Make offer I might say yes if it's not to low.
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406206#406206
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Flap Controller |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Bob,
Sorry we didn't get away from Oshkosh with that controller that you took for us.
I thought you were going to take it to the BBQ in the campground, and I wasn't
able to make it by the booth later in the week. Can you remind me the price
and I will do a final verification with my customer that he wants it and I will
go ahead and move forward and have you ship it to me?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Flap Controller |
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Jessie. The list is $245. I'll give you the dealer price of $210. If you have
a ups account I'll ship it on that.
Just send me the details and I'll put an invoice in the box for you to pay
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 8, 2013, at 3:02 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Sorry we didn't get away from Oshkosh with that controller that you took for
us. I thought you were going to take it to the BBQ in the campground, and I wasn't
able to make it by the booth later in the week. Can you remind me the price
and I will do a final verification with my customer that he wants it and I
will go ahead and move forward and have you ship it to me?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Cleveland Wheels and Brakes for sale |
| From: | "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com> |
I received Cleveland wheels and brakes in my finish kit (part number 199-104).
Decided to install the new Matco wheels and brakes so these are no longer needed.
Brand new in the box! They are listed in Aircraft Spruce for $2,300. (Van's
price was around $900). Make me an offer. Willing to sell at a deeply
discounted price.
Bill Ziesenitz
billz(at)roadrunner.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406255#406255
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com" <tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com> |
E-mag/P-mag had a 6 cylinder demo unit at OSH. It looks very nice, but
is still several months away from production.
When it comes out, I'll try to test it and post the results. FYI, it lo
oks like it will be easy to install and have very nice features.
Tom
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Extended Stay America
Get Fantastic Amenities, low rates! Kitchen, Ample Workspace, Free WIFI
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52053847de97d38474a93st04vuc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
It was the same demo unit they've had at OSH before with the same story -
almost word for word...
Bob
On Friday, August 9, 2013, tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com wrote:
> E-mag/P-mag had a 6 cylinder demo unit at OSH. It looks very nice, but is
> still several months away from production.
>
> When it comes out, I'll try to test it and post the results. FYI, it
> looks like it will be easy to install and have very nice features.
>
> Tom
>
> 970-420-1798
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> *Extended Stay America*
> Get Fantastic Amenities, low rates! Kitchen, Ample Workspace, Free WIFI
> <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/52053847de97d38474a93st04vuc>
> extendedstayamerica.com<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/52053847de97d38474a93st04vuc>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Which quick oil drain for TMX-IO-540 |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
could someone please let me know which quick-oil drain I need to order for the
TMX-IO-540. As I understand there are different thread sizes to choose from but
I am not in the hangar.
Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406361#406361
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shout out to Dynon |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I just want to publicly thank the folks at Dynon for stepping up to the plate and
upgrading the RV10 pitch servos free of charge.
It is good that companies improve their products and design and a lot of times
it is appropriate to charge for the upgrade.
It is fantastic when they recognize a deficiency in a previously recommended product
and absorb the cost of making it right.
It renews my faith in them as a partner in this build process.
Well done Team Dynon. Thank you for embracing the spirit of experimental aviation.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406368#406368
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shout out to Dynon |
I second your comments. Their customer support is first rate.
-----Original Message-----
From: woxofswa
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 12:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Shout out to Dynon
I just want to publicly thank the folks at Dynon for stepping up to the
plate and upgrading the RV10 pitch servos free of charge.
It is good that companies improve their products and design and a lot of
times it is appropriate to charge for the upgrade.
It is fantastic when they recognize a deficiency in a previously recommended
product and absorb the cost of making it right.
It renews my faith in them as a partner in this build process.
Well done Team Dynon. Thank you for embracing the spirit of experimental
aviation.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406368#406368
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shout out to Dynon |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
To add some color to what I am talking about, they switched from the rotational
arm to a "linear actuator" (horizonal slide) that is supposed to be a big improvement
according to those who have made the change.
http://dynonavionics.com/downloads/Installation_Guides_Autopilot/RV10_Pitch_Kit_with_LA_Instructions_Rev_E.pdf
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406379#406379
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shout out to Dynon |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
The guys at trutrak
should take a look at the design of the force multiplier arm retainer.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406396#406396
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Holes in rear Center section spar, which bolts? |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
I can't find in the plans which bolts to mount in the two rear holes of the center
section (see picture) a nutplate is attached inside of the center section
on each hole. An AN-4 would fit but I still miss the reason for having a bolt
there.
I didn't find anywhere in the plans what bolts to put in there.
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406410#406410
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0054_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Holes in rear Center section spar, which bolts? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Two AN4 bolts, shown in the plans on page 44-11, figure 2.
Help hold the "upright bar".
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406415#406415
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Holes in rear Center section spar, which bolts? |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks Bob, I just realized I didn't look at the revised Plan for 44-11.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406416#406416
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Which quick oil drain for TMX-IO-540 |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I ordered a Saf-Air P5000 from ACS. Works great.
It has a 1/2" NPT, like most Lycomings.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406423#406423
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leeverett" <Leeverett(at)msn.com> |
Has anyone installed a stormscope WX 500 in an RV10? I have the Stratus 2 with
foreflight but I fly in the southeast mostly and we have a real juicy atmosphere
with lots of convective weather. I have a Garmin 650 which will function as
a display. I think the lightening info from spherics is better than XM which
is just ground strikes. Any antenna interference issues? Thanx Leon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406474#406474
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim Villani <jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
XM weather is 5-20 min old. Stormscope shows electrical discharges
happening in real time with perhaps a minute or two of stored information.
Stormscope is better for staying out of bad areas up close, XM better
for strategically avoiding bad area from a greater distance.
I also have stormscope in my Mooney, but will not be installing more
than ADS-B weather in RV-10.
On 8/11/2013 9:11 PM, jim Villani wrote:
>
> Had one in my Mooney
> Works ok but remember it just shows history
> I relied more on my XM weather
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Leeverett <Leeverett(at)msn.com>
> Date: 08/11/2013 7:08 PM (GMT-08:00)
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Stormscope
>
>
> Has anyone installed a stormscope WX 500 in an RV10? I have the
> Stratus 2 with foreflight but I fly in the southeast mostly and we
> have a real juicy atmosphere with lots of convective weather. I have a
> Garmin 650 which will function as a display. I think the lightening
> info from spherics is better than XM which is just ground strikes. Any
> antenna interference issues? Thanx Leon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406474#406474
>
>
> ~,gM4Gqz.'8E]t.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+ry'C
> {
> ,x(ZP!jrrj|-&j',r5hum
> 'ojj+E]t.+-08IaT1
> jgrz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rhB{ky.+jY^.+-i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shout out to Dynon |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I'm swapping because I'm right at final assembly and it makes sense to upgrade
now especially if they are paying for it. It would be a tough call to make if
already flying with no issues. Hopefully we can get some pireps from guys who
have flown both units. Who knows how long Dynon will absorb the cost.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406485#406485
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have one for my g500,oh that's right garmin doesn't support the gx500 with the
g500 even though they said they would for four years now. So I have it on the
w430's. it's mounted on shelf behind the baggage wall. Antenna way back away
from all others. No problem other then garmin not quite telling the truth to
us. Just like last year at osh when we bought GDL 39 and they knew it would not
do traffic like they said. They did not have software ready, could not get info
from w430's to talk to transponder. Not until this past April. Oh and they
forgot to tell every one you need to add another wire from your wass receiver
to transponder. New little insert in install manual that came out in April. Even
radio shop did not know.
I'ld suggest you see one working with the 650 before you buy.
Patrick Thyssen
N15pt
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 11, 2013, at 9:08 PM, "Leeverett" wrote:
>
> Has anyone installed a stormscope WX 500 in an RV10? I have the Stratus 2 with
foreflight but I fly in the southeast mostly and we have a real juicy atmosphere
with lots of convective weather. I have a Garmin 650 which will function
as a display. I think the lightening info from spherics is better than XM which
is just ground strikes. Any antenna interference issues? Thanx Leon
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406474#406474
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shout out to Dynon |
History shows Dynon will do it as long as needed to fix any issues. While
you're at it, power up the units and check to see if your displays are part
of the Service Bulletins. Both of mine when back and are now running
flawlessly, they used to reboot randomly (not in the air) when starting up.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: woxofswa
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 12:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Shout out to Dynon
I'm swapping because I'm right at final assembly and it makes sense to
upgrade now especially if they are paying for it. It would be a tough call
to make if already flying with no issues. Hopefully we can get some pireps
from guys who have flown both units. Who knows how long Dynon will absorb
the cost.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406485#406485
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip |
I've seen some with weather strip between the wing root fairing and the
fuselage. Is that because the gap was too big? I didn't see it called
out in the plans and was just wondering. For those that used weather
strip there, you have a part number?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip |
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
If it is on top if the wings, it's not in the plans, but a little larger gap there
can be a good thing, because tight tolerances can lead to scratching the paint
if you aren't careful when you remove the fairing.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 12, 2013, at 12:35 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I've seen some with weather strip between the wing root fairing and the fuselage.
Is that because the gap was too big? I didn't see it called out in the
plans and was just wondering. For those that used weather strip there, you have
a part number?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip |
I don't see it in the plans in Section 44 for either the top or the bottom.
-Sean
On 8/12/13 2:39 PM, Tim Farrell wrote:
>
> If it is on top if the wings, it's not in the plans, but a little larger gap
there can be a good thing, because tight tolerances can lead to scratching the
paint if you aren't careful when you remove the fairing.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 12, 2013, at 12:35 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>>
>> I've seen some with weather strip between the wing root fairing and the fuselage.
Is that because the gap was too big? I didn't see it called out in the
plans and was just wondering. For those that used weather strip there, you have
a part number?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip |
No expert and no wind tunnel tests......but I am not sure a gap seal is
needed there based on my dirty airplane tests. It appears the airflow is
not attached there and rides up higher on the fuselage. Also, the way the
walk plate attaches to the airframe my make putting a gap seal in a
challenge. Also.....in order to make room you will have a smaller edge
distance on the inside screws. There may be enough room there to do
that....never measured.
I think the intersection looked just fine once I got done.
YMMV
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 1:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip
I've seen some with weather strip between the wing root fairing and the
fuselage. Is that because the gap was too big? I didn't see it called out
in the plans and was just wondering. For those that used weather strip
there, you have a part number?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip |
I used the same fairing strip on the leading edge of the RV-10 as listed in
the plans for the RV-8 instead of the "no rubber strip, just trip to fit"
RV-10 instructions. This provides a nice clean leading edge transition to
the fuselage. I ran the strip from the spar forward. I just ordered the
part from Van's. Remember to put a little black RTV inside the strip when
you install the fairing. Once the RTV sets up it is much less likely to
come loose and flop around in the wind.
Carl
Fixing a dragging brake problem and waiting on new brake pads.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip
I don't see it in the plans in Section 44 for either the top or the bottom.
-Sean
On 8/12/13 2:39 PM, Tim Farrell wrote:
>
> If it is on top if the wings, it's not in the plans, but a little larger
gap there can be a good thing, because tight tolerances can lead to
scratching the paint if you aren't careful when you remove the fairing.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 12, 2013, at 12:35 PM, Sean Stephens
wrote:
>
>> -->
>>
>> I've seen some with weather strip between the wing root fairing and the
fuselage. Is that because the gap was too big? I didn't see it called out
in the plans and was just wondering. For those that used weather strip
there, you have a part number?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Filtered Airbox needed |
I was wondering if anyone has any of the below units already assembled that
they would be willing to give / sell . Maybe something you set aside because
you switched to another setup.
I am looking at filter box/filter issues and possible solutions. (I just
assumed they do not come pre-built from Van's.)
Thanks
Chris Lucas
N919AR
Top of Form
Bottom of Form
Top of Form
O-360/540
also IO-320 with Bendix Fuel Injection
Part Number = FAB-360/540
Price = $179.00
Bottom of Form
Top of Form
O-320 with Airflow Performance System
Part Number = FAB-320 AP-1
Price = $175.00
Bottom of Form
Top of Form
O-360/540 with Airflow Performance System
Part Number = FAB-360/540 AP
Price = $179.00
Bottom of Form
FAB-360/540 AP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip |
No its not in the plans, but I did put it there top and bottom just for
(looks?).
I made the gap a little larger to accommodate the strip.
I used this I believe
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/rubberchannel.php> it is the
D-channel P/N 05-00598.
I used rubber cement to attach it. When I need to remove the few screws it
covers it folds out of the way locally and a little dab of cement, sometime
not, on it after re-assembly and it is good to go. Also I used a continuous
piece all the way round which requires a little planning (have 3 arms/hands
ready) when removing the fairings at conditional, but not to much of a
hassle.
-Chris
N919AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 3:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Root Fairing Weather Strip
I've seen some with weather strip between the wing root fairing and the
fuselage. Is that because the gap was too big? I didn't see it called out
in the plans and was just wondering. For those that used weather strip
there, you have a part number?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Filtered Airbox needed |
I have one because I'm utilizing the Show Planes cowl and air box. Contact
me directly at: jdriggs49(at)msn.com and we can discuss it. Dan
From: toaster73(at)embarqmail.com
Subject: RV10-List: Filtered Airbox needed
Date: Mon=2C 12 Aug 2013 19:20:24 -0400
I was wondering if anyone has any of the below units already assembled that
they would be willing to give / sell . Maybe something you set aside becau
se you switched to another setup.I am looking at filter box/filter issues a
nd possible solutions. (I just assumed they do not come pre-built from Van'
s.) ThanksChris LucasN919ARTop of Form Bottom of FormTop of FormO-360/540
also IO-320 with Bendix Fuel InjectionPart Number = FAB-360/540Price =
$179.00 Bottom of FormTop of FormO-320 with Airflow Performance SystemPart
Number = FAB-320 AP-1Price = $175.00 Bottom of FormTop of FormO-360/540
with Airflow Performance SystemPart Number = FAB-360/540 APPrice = $17
9.00 Bottom of FormFAB-360/540 AP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Annual Condition inspection by EAA tomorrow
http://tinyurl.com/lt5tw3h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PlaneAround LLC" <sean(at)planearound.com> |
Registered. Thanks Kelly!
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Webinar
Annual Condition inspection by EAA tomorrow
http://tinyurl.com/lt5tw3h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | door sill finishing |
I=99m looking for ideas on how to finish the lower door sill. The
Vans demo plane has a piece of wood to provide a ledge to sit or step on
when entering the cabin. Does anyone have some other ideas? Maybe
pictures?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com> |
Anyone have an idea how to repair this condition? What is the door made of,and
how do I repair it? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G KCRP
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | door sill finishing |
Teak with inlay. My wood working friend did it up for me.
-Chris
N919AR
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 6:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: door sill finishing
I=99m looking for ideas on how to finish the lower door sill. The
Vans demo plane has a piece of wood to provide a ledge to sit or step on
when entering the cabin. Does anyone have some other ideas? Maybe
pictures?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | door sill finishing |
nother shot,
Chris
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 6:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: door sill finishing
I=99m looking for ideas on how to finish the lower door sill. The
Vans demo plane has a piece of wood to provide a ledge to sit or step on
when entering the cabin. Does anyone have some other ideas? Maybe
pictures?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
You're probably seeing the joint between the plastic window and the
fiberglass door. The window is usually painted over the first 3/4" or so.
Cracks in that area are very common.
The best way to prevent or repair the issue is to remove the paint, then
overlay a thin layer of fiberglass almost up to the edge of the window
opening. That takes some bodywork and paint but on the doors it shouldn't
be too big a deal.
Worse is when the same thing happens around the rear windows and
windshield. The repair is the same but depending on your paint scheme, the
bodywork and paint may take more effort to make look right. But it's
doable, and there probably isn't any rush to get it fixed. I doubt your
window is in any danger of departing. If you see the window actually start
to lift or move relative to the base material, then it's time to get it
fixed.
Hope that helps,
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 5:01 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer
wrote:
> >
>
> Anyone have an idea how to repair this condition? What is the door made
> of,and how do I repair it? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G KCRP
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I agree. It's mainly a cosmetic issue. It's a fairly big job to fix on a pai
nted plane, so I'd recommend leaving it alone unless, as Dave mentioned, you
notice it coming loose. The cause of the problem is that the different mate
rials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) have different expansion co
efficients, so as they heat and cool, they change sizes differently and the s
eam gets a crack. Same reason the Lycoming and continentals have big piston t
o cylinder wall clearances and Rotax has 0.0-0.0004" clearance.
Jesse
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 13, 2013, at 10:10 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> You're probably seeing the joint between the plastic window and the fiberg
lass door. The window is usually painted over the first 3/4" or so. Cracks
in that area are very common.
>
> The best way to prevent or repair the issue is to remove the paint, then o
verlay a thin layer of fiberglass almost up to the edge of the window openin
g. That takes some bodywork and paint but on the doors it shouldn't be too b
ig a deal.
>
> Worse is when the same thing happens around the rear windows and windshiel
d. The repair is the same but depending on your paint scheme, the bodywork a
nd paint may take more effort to make look right. But it's doable, and ther
e probably isn't any rush to get it fixed. I doubt your window is in any da
nger of departing. If you see the window actually start to lift or move rel
ative to the base material, then it's time to get it fixed.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 5:01 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
m>
>>
>> Anyone have an idea how to repair this condition? What is the door made o
f,and how do I repair it? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G KCRP
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> ==========
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
It is as described by Jesse. Thanks. I know what to do now. Robert
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 13, 2013, at 9:26 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> I agree. It's mainly a cosmetic issue. It's a fairly big job to fix on a p
ainted plane, so I'd recommend leaving it alone unless, as Dave mentioned, y
ou notice it coming loose. The cause of the problem is that the different ma
terials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) have different expansion c
oefficients, so as they heat and cool, they change sizes differently and the
seam gets a crack. Same reason the Lycoming and continentals have big pisto
n to cylinder wall clearances and Rotax has 0.0-0.0004" clearance.
>
> Jesse
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 13, 2013, at 10:10 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> You're probably seeing the joint between the plastic window and the fiber
glass door. The window is usually painted over the first 3/4" or so. Crack
s in that area are very common.
>>
>> The best way to prevent or repair the issue is to remove the paint, then o
verlay a thin layer of fiberglass almost up to the edge of the window openin
g. That takes some bodywork and paint but on the doors it shouldn't be too b
ig a deal.
>>
>> Worse is when the same thing happens around the rear windows and windshie
ld. The repair is the same but depending on your paint scheme, the bodywork
and paint may take more effort to make look right. But it's doable, and th
ere probably isn't any rush to get it fixed. I doubt your window is in any d
anger of departing. If you see the window actually start to lift or move re
lative to the base material, then it's time to get it fixed.
>>
>> Hope that helps,
>>
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 5:01 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
om>
>>>
>>> Anyone have an idea how to repair this condition? What is the door made o
f,and how do I repair it? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G KCRP
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> MS -
>>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> e -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
=========
>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> =========================
=========
>> cs.com
>> =========================
=========
>> matronics.com/contribution
>> =========================
=========
>>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
<<=8B
different materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) have
different expansion coefficients
=8B>>=8B
oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler,
primer, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little oil
canning from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks.
Lancair/Columbia/Cessna has an SB for the same issue on their windows as
well, same issue.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
Dave, how has your window installation solution held up over the years?
Just curious.
I did the Van's standard with some light wt glass over the edges. You
can see the edges but no cracks in the paint yet... they're coming though.
Bill "just flying it" Watson
On 8/13/2013 11:20 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> <<
> different materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) have
> different expansion coefficients
> >>
>
>
> oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler,
> primer, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little
> oil canning from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks.
> Lancair/Columbia/Cessna has an SB for the same issue on their windows
> as well, same issue.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | door sill finishing |
I used a carbon fiber angle piece to finish off the sill after the side
panel was put in place. Or you can just finish off the door sill and paint
it if you have no lower
side panel.
Geoff Combs
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 6:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: door sill finishing
I'm looking for ideas on how to finish the lower door sill. The Vans demo
plane has a piece of wood to provide a ledge to sit or step on when entering
the cabin. Does anyone have some other ideas? Maybe pictures?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: door sill finishing |
| From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
Walnut wood finished with Mirror Coat. The walnut matches other walnut wood finishing
pieces and the stick grips. Fun side project!
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Electrical/avionics
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406696#406696
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_119.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_106.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_115.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
| From: | Aaron <aarongleixner(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I laid up layers of fiberglass when I built to avoid this issue and had no p
roblems for the first 300 hours. I then installed the aftermarket door latc
h that draws in the bottom of the door when you close it, and got cracks alm
ost immediately on both doors. I had the painter rework the fiberglass and r
epaint, and it cracked again in less than 5 hours. My hypothesis is the lat
ch flexes the door when it closes, causing the cracks. My solution will be d
ecals that match the paint scheme at the 4 corners around the windows.
Aaron
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 13, 2013, at 11:20 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> <<=8Bdifferent materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) h
ave different expansion coefficients =8B>>=8B
>
> oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler, prim
er, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little oil cannin
g from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks. Lancair/Columbia/Cessn
a has an SB for the same issue on their windows as well, same issue.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
The only issue with my installation is that the SilPruf has gotten a little
"chalky" on the surface. It develops kind of a white powdery deposit that
kind of looks like oxidation. I can polish it with various Armor-All type
cleaners and it cleans up well. It's still very pliable and coherent. I'd
do it again, and I'd like to come up with a method for the windshield too.
Which might happen sooner rather than later since I've got a TON of little
stars in the front plastic.
For the time being I have the overlay on the aft edge of the windshield and
it's working fine. We're approaching 1300 hours and 6 years.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 3:13 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Dave, how has your window installation solution held up over the years?
> Just curious.
>
> I did the Van's standard with some light wt glass over the edges. You ca
n
> see the edges but no cracks in the paint yet... they're coming though.
>
> Bill "just flying it" Watson
>
> On 8/13/2013 11:20 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> <<=8B
> different materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) have
> different expansion coefficients
> =8B>>=8B
>
>
> oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler,
> primer, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little oil
> canning from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks.
> Lancair/Columbia/Cessna has an SB for the same issue on their windows as
> well, same issue.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
> *
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 08/13/13
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
Aaron,
Out of curiosity, can you tell how much overlap there was past the edge of
the window joint, both towards the inside and the outside? And did the
crack form on the window joint so that it cracked through the overlay, or
was it at the edge of the overlay?
I did something similar to your decal idea in that I have a gloss black
ring painted around all my windows.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 8:13 AM, Aaron wrote:
> I laid up layers of fiberglass when I built to avoid this issue and had n
o
> problems for the first 300 hours. I then installed the aftermarket door
> latch that draws in the bottom of the door when you close it, and got
> cracks almost immediately on both doors. I had the painter rework the
> fiberglass and repaint, and it cracked again in less than 5 hours. My
> hypothesis is the latch flexes the door when it closes, causing the crack
s.
> My solution will be decals that match the paint scheme at the 4 corners
> around the windows.
>
> Aaron
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 13, 2013, at 11:20 PM, Dave Saylor <
> dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> <<=8B
> different materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) have
> different expansion coefficients
> =8B>>=8B
>
>
> oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler,
> primer, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little oil
> canning from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks.
> Lancair/Columbia/Cessna has an SB for the same issue on their windows as
> well, same issue.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
> *
>
> ========================
> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ========================
===========cs.com
> ========================
===========matronics.com/contribution
> ========================
> *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
Aaron,
The latch will probably flex the door if you have a really tight seal
and it is flexing the middle of the door. If your pins still drag a lot
even after the cam pulls the door in, the seal is probably too tight.
If you have the McMaster Carr seal you should have 1/4=9D reveal
between the inner door skin and the outer edge of the cabin lip. I put
a lot of fiberglass tape around my windows and the paint shop sanded
them all down too thin. My windows all cracked so I had the paint shop
fix it all. 400 hours later I notice the corner of the windshield
cracking but no cracks around the other windows. I wonder if the best
fix is to keep the gap around the windows unfilled and use tape or just
proseal around them.
From: Aaron
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Repair paint cracking around door window opening
I laid up layers of fiberglass when I built to avoid this issue and had
no problems for the first 300 hours. I then installed the aftermarket
door latch that draws in the bottom of the door when you close it, and
got cracks almost immediately on both doors. I had the painter rework
the fiberglass and repaint, and it cracked again in less than 5 hours.
My hypothesis is the latch flexes the door when it closes, causing the
cracks. My solution will be decals that match the paint scheme at the 4
corners around the windows.
Aaron
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 13, 2013, at 11:20 PM, Dave Saylor
wrote:
<<=8Bdifferent materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate
window) have different expansion coefficients =8B>>=8B
oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler,
primer, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little
oil canning from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks.
Lancair/Columbia/Cessna has an SB for the same issue on their windows as
well, same issue.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
=========
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=========
cs.com
=========
matronics.com/contribution
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
One more thought,
I heard someone else state the reason his window starting crazing is the
stress forced on the window due to holding it from expanding and
contracting with fiberglass.
From: Seano
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Repair paint cracking around door window opening
Aaron,
The latch will probably flex the door if you have a really tight seal
and it is flexing the middle of the door. If your pins still drag a lot
even after the cam pulls the door in, the seal is probably too tight.
If you have the McMaster Carr seal you should have 1/4=9D reveal
between the inner door skin and the outer edge of the cabin lip. I put
a lot of fiberglass tape around my windows and the paint shop sanded
them all down too thin. My windows all cracked so I had the paint shop
fix it all. 400 hours later I notice the corner of the windshield
cracking but no cracks around the other windows. I wonder if the best
fix is to keep the gap around the windows unfilled and use tape or just
proseal around them.
From: Aaron
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Repair paint cracking around door window opening
I laid up layers of fiberglass when I built to avoid this issue and had
no problems for the first 300 hours. I then installed the aftermarket
door latch that draws in the bottom of the door when you close it, and
got cracks almost immediately on both doors. I had the painter rework
the fiberglass and repaint, and it cracked again in less than 5 hours.
My hypothesis is the latch flexes the door when it closes, causing the
cracks. My solution will be decals that match the paint scheme at the 4
corners around the windows.
Aaron
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 13, 2013, at 11:20 PM, Dave Saylor
wrote:
<<=8Bdifferent materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate
window) have different expansion coefficients =8B>>=8B
oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler,
primer, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little
oil canning from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks.
Lancair/Columbia/Cessna has an SB for the same issue on their windows as
well, same issue.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
=========
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=========
cs.com
=========
matronics.com/contribution
=========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
RGF2ZS4gV291bGQgQ2FyYm9uIEZpYmVyIG92ZXJsYXkgaW4gdGhlIGNyaXRpY2FsIGNvcm5lcnMg
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DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
Carbon might help if the problem is a structure that's too flexible. Then
again a thicker fiberglass cloth could solve that problem too, much cheaper
.
I don't know enough about why the overlay cracked to say how to fix it.
I'd be pretty surprised if it actually cracked through the overlay,
although that may be the case. More likely I'd think the edge of the
overlay lifted, which is a different problem altogether than a crack at the
window joint. Hopefully Aaron can shed some light on what exactly happened
there.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 11:28 AM, Robin Marks wrote
:
> Dave. Would Carbon Fiber overlay in the critical corners be a better
> choice than fiberglass in these locations? ****
>
> ** **
>
> Robin****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 13, 2013 8:20 PM
>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Repair paint cracking around door window openin
g
> ****
>
> ** **
>
> <<=8B****
>
> different materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) have
> different expansion coefficients****
>
> =8B>>=8B****
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler,
> primer, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little oil
> canning from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks.
> Lancair/Columbia/Cessna has an SB for the same issue on their windows as
> well, same issue.****
>
> ** **
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL****
>
> ** **
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
============*
>
>
============*
>
>
============*
>
>
============*
>
> * *
>
> ------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Repair paint cracking around door window opening |
| From: | Aaron <aarongleixner(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Give me a couple of days to get to the airport and take a look. I think the
seals are tight (Van's seals) the door is bending when the bottom gets pull
ed tight, and the areas around the windows have the least stiffness and bend
the most. I'll try to determine if the window or fiberglass are disbonding
beneath, but I suspect not. Its just flexing of the composite material.
Aaron
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 14, 2013, at 5:21 PM, Dave Saylor
wrote:
> Carbon might help if the problem is a structure that's too flexible. Then
again a thicker fiberglass cloth could solve that problem too, much cheaper
.
>
> I don't know enough about why the overlay cracked to say how to fix it. I
'd be pretty surprised if it actually cracked through the overlay, although t
hat may be the case. More likely I'd think the edge of the overlay lifted, w
hich is a different problem altogether than a crack at the window joint. Ho
pefully Aaron can shed some light on what exactly happened there.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 11:28 AM, Robin Marks wrot
e:
>> Dave. Would Carbon Fiber overlay in the critical corners be a better choi
ce than fiberglass in these locations?
>>
>>
>>
>> Robin
>>
>>
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 8:20 PM
>>
>>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Repair paint cracking around door window opening
>>
>>
>> <<=8B
>>
>> different materials (fiberglass door and polycarbonate window) have diffe
rent expansion coefficients
>>
>> =8B>>=8B
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> oh, it's much worse actually: glass, resin, window, weld-on, filler, pri
mer, paint...all doin' the mambo in close proximity. Add a little oil canni
ng from the window, it's now wonder the joint cracks. Lancair/Columbia/Cess
na has an SB for the same issue on their windows as well, same issue.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =============
>> V10-List Email Forum - u> > tor?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.m
atronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ==============
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - u> rget="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
============== - List Contribution Web Site -
/pre> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. bution" target="_blan
k">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ============
=
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> r>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
Just wanted to share the following with all regarding alternator belt findings:
Using Vans supplied Plane Power Alternator, and Vans supplied I0-540 Engine
with an LW 12227 double pulley flywheel, my findings are that a Gates XL 7325
is the belt of choice. The Alternator came in a fairly recently purchased FF
kit (few months ago) and the Install Instructions say: "For 7 1/2 inch ring
gear support pulley locally purchase XL7300 Gates (not supplied)". A Dayco 15355
(Gates XL 7355) does come with the kit but it is way too long and meant for
a 9-3/4 inch ring gear support pulley.
After some web searching on VAF I found that this discussion had been been covered
not too awful long ago with the conclusion being that a Gates XL7328 was the
belt of choice. I bought both a 7328 and a 7320 (only 3/4 inch difference
in total length) and tried them both. First tried the 7320 which is 32 5/8 inch.
No matter which way you held your jaw it wasn't going to go on - not without
hurting something! The 7328 (33 3/8 inch) did go on but I found that I could
tighten it all the way to maximum travel on the V-1004 arm and still rotate
the pulley too easily without the engine/flywheel turning. That's for a new
belt. Once broken in and the belt has stretched, it would be out of capable
travel adjustment range. What is the BIG DEAL you say? NOT interested in removing
the spinner and the prop just to install a different belt after one hour
of flight is my answer. Back to the store, got an XL 7325 and bingo - fits on
the flywheel and alt. with just a bit of difficulty, but once tightened there
was still about 1/4 to 3/8 inch travel on the V-1004 arm for adjustment. Log
book size entry time!
For those that are unfamiliar with how to, or how much to tighten the belt, PlanePower
does include instructions that are good on their website. If I might
add a tip that has worked well for me over the last 15 years: A new belt is a
bit slippery as NEW. This will change over the first few hours of operation
- the belt will also stretch a bit after these first few hours. So, what I like
to do for the initial setting is snug the alternator down to the point of being
able to put a 1/2 inch breaker bar with appropriate socket ( 3/4 inch - PlanePower)
on the alternator center nut and in turning the breaker bar just slightly
(10 - 20 degrees) it should almost turn the flywheel, hence the engine
crank. For now this is good enough. Tighten and safety wire. Then after just
a couple hours of flight and the belt is stretched to basically final form
and no longer slippery, I like to tighten it just enough to perform the same procedure
as above but have it actually turn the alt. and crank together, no slipping.
No over tightening! Also these rules do not apply to an oil or fluid
contaminated belt!
If the belt is tightened too much, we will have alternator bearing and/or other
issues, and if we don't tighten it enough it can slip causing premature belt
wear and possibly poor to little output at the alternator.
***When making these adjustments be sure to put a few 1/2 inch bolts/washers in
the crank to hold the flywheel in place (as in symmetrical with the crank flange)
unless of course the prop is already bolted on.
SORRY if this has already been posted somewhere, I couldn't find it and thought
it might help some of you. It's also during the weekend, so PlanePower is closed
- they may have already discovered these Gates numbers, I'll give them a
call tomorrow One thing is for sure - their recommended Gates XL7300 would not
have worked on my set up! The Revisions from Plane Power that I have are dated:
8/27/12 - maybe they have an updated one.
Rich Hansen
RV-6A sold
Rv-10 Fitting Cowl, Panel Ordered!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
Make sure you check the alignment of the alternator and the flywheel
pulleys. There have been instances where the spacers provided with the
alternator place the alternator pulley forward or aft of the correct
placement. There are single and dual pulley flywheels and its possible to
have them staggered.
Just check it now before you get to first flight.
I have personally seen two instances where the pulleys were not aligned.
Jim Combs
N312F - Flying (540+ Hours)
On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 9:41 PM, Karol Hansen wrot
e:
>
>
> Just wanted to share the following with all regarding alternator belt
> findings: Using Vans supplied Plane Power Alternator, and Vans supplied
> I0-540 Engine with an LW 12227 double pulley flywheel, my findings are th
at
> a Gates XL 7325 is the belt of choice. The Alternator came in a fairly
> recently purchased FF kit (few months ago) and the Install Instructions
> say: "For 7 1/2 inch ring gear support pulley locally purchase XL7300
> Gates (not supplied)". A Dayco 15355 (Gates XL 7355) does come with the
> kit but it is way too long and meant for a 9-3/4 inch ring gear support
> pulley.
>
> After some web searching on VAF I found that this discussion had been bee
n
> covered not too awful long ago with the conclusion being that a Gates
> XL7328 was the belt of choice. I bought both a 7328 and a 7320 (only 3/4
> inch difference in total length) and tried them both. First tried the 73
20
> which is 32 5/8 inch. No matter which way you held your jaw it wasn't
> going to go on - not without hurting something! The 7328 (33 3/8 inch) d
id
> go on but I found that I could tighten it all the way to maximum travel o
n
> the V-1004 arm and still rotate the pulley too easily without the
> engine/flywheel turning. That's for a new belt. Once broken in and the
> belt has stretched, it would be out of capable travel adjustment range.
> What is the BIG DEAL you say? NOT interested in removing the spinner an
d
> the prop just to install a different belt after one hour of flight is my
> answer. Back to the store, got an XL 7325 and bingo - fits on the flywhe
el
> and alt. with just a bit of difficult!
> y, but once tightened there was still about 1/4 to 3/8 inch travel on th
e
> V-1004 arm for adjustment. Log book size entry time!
>
> For those that are unfamiliar with how to, or how much to tighten the
> belt, PlanePower does include instructions that are good on their website
.
> If I might add a tip that has worked well for me over the last 15 years:
> A new belt is a bit slippery as NEW. This will change over the first fe
w
> hours of operation - the belt will also stretch a bit after these first f
ew
> hours. So, what I like to do for the initial setting is snug the
> alternator down to the point of being able to put a 1/2 inch breaker bar
> with appropriate socket ( 3/4 inch - PlanePower) on the alternator center
> nut and in turning the breaker bar just slightly (10 - 20 degrees) it
> should almost turn the flywheel, hence the engine crank. For now this is
> good enough. Tighten and safety wire. Then after just a couple hours o
f
> flight and the belt is stretched to basically final form and no longer
> slippery, I like to tighten it just enough to perform the same procedure
as
> above but have it actually turn the alt.!
> and crank together, no slipping. No over tightening! Also these rules
> do not apply to an oil or fluid contaminated belt!
>
> If the belt is tightened too much, we will have alternator bearing and/or
> other issues, and if we don't tighten it enough it can slip causing
> premature belt wear and possibly poor to little output at the alternator.
>
> ***When making these adjustments be sure to put a few 1/2 inch
> bolts/washers in the crank to hold the flywheel in place (as in symmetric
al
> with the crank flange) unless of course the prop is already bolted on.
>
> SORRY if this has already been posted somewhere, I couldn't find it and
> thought it might help some of you. It's also during the weekend, so
> PlanePower is closed - they may have already discovered these Gates
> numbers, I'll give them a call tomorrow=85=85 One thing is for sure - th
eir
> recommended Gates XL7300 would not have worked on my set up! The Revisio
ns
> from Plane Power that I have are dated: 8/27/12 - maybe they have an
> updated one.
>
>
> Rich Hansen
> RV-6A sold
> Rv-10 Fitting Cowl, Panel Ordered!
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
There are also single belt flywheels that look like they fit two belts
....... they don't.
Linn
On 8/19/2013 9:42 AM, Jim Combs wrote:
> Make sure you check the alignment of the alternator and the flywheel
> pulleys. There have been instances where the spacers provided with
> the alternator place the alternator pulley forward or aft of the
> correct placement. There are single and dual pulley flywheels and its
> possible to have them staggered.
>
> Just check it now before you get to first flight.
>
> I have personally seen two instances where the pulleys were not aligned.
>
> Jim Combs
> N312F - Flying (540+ Hours)
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 9:41 PM, Karol Hansen > wrote:
>
> >
>
>
> Just wanted to share the following with all regarding alternator
> belt findings: Using Vans supplied Plane Power Alternator, and
> Vans supplied I0-540 Engine with an LW 12227 double pulley
> flywheel, my findings are that a Gates XL 7325 is the belt of
> choice. The Alternator came in a fairly recently purchased FF kit
> (few months ago) and the Install Instructions say: "For 7 1/2
> inch ring gear support pulley locally purchase XL7300 Gates (not
> supplied)". A Dayco 15355 (Gates XL 7355) does come with the kit
> but it is way too long and meant for a 9-3/4 inch ring gear
> support pulley.
>
> After some web searching on VAF I found that this discussion had
> been been covered not too awful long ago with the conclusion being
> that a Gates XL7328 was the belt of choice. I bought both a 7328
> and a 7320 (only 3/4 inch difference in total length) and tried
> them both. First tried the 7320 which is 32 5/8 inch. No matter
> which way you held your jaw it wasn't going to go on - not without
> hurting something! The 7328 (33 3/8 inch) did go on but I found
> that I could tighten it all the way to maximum travel on the
> V-1004 arm and still rotate the pulley too easily without the
> engine/flywheel turning. That's for a new belt. Once broken in
> and the belt has stretched, it would be out of capable travel
> adjustment range. What is the BIG DEAL you say? NOT interested
> in removing the spinner and the prop just to install a different
> belt after one hour of flight is my answer. Back to the store,
> got an XL 7325 and bingo - fits on the flywheel and alt. with just
> a bit of difficult!
> y, but once tightened there was still about 1/4 to 3/8 inch
> travel on the V-1004 arm for adjustment. Log book size entry time!
>
> For those that are unfamiliar with how to, or how much to tighten
> the belt, PlanePower does include instructions that are good on
> their website. If I might add a tip that has worked well for me
> over the last 15 years: A new belt is a bit slippery as NEW.
> This will change over the first few hours of operation - the belt
> will also stretch a bit after these first few hours. So, what I
> like to do for the initial setting is snug the alternator down to
> the point of being able to put a 1/2 inch breaker bar with
> appropriate socket ( 3/4 inch - PlanePower) on the alternator
> center nut and in turning the breaker bar just slightly (10 - 20
> degrees) it should almost turn the flywheel, hence the engine
> crank. For now this is good enough. Tighten and safety wire.
> Then after just a couple hours of flight and the belt is
> stretched to basically final form and no longer slippery, I like
> to tighten it just enough to perform the same procedure as above
> but have it actually turn the alt.!
> and crank together, no slipping. No over tightening! Also
> these rules do not apply to an oil or fluid contaminated belt!
>
> If the belt is tightened too much, we will have alternator bearing
> and/or other issues, and if we don't tighten it enough it can slip
> causing premature belt wear and possibly poor to little output at
> the alternator.
>
> ***When making these adjustments be sure to put a few 1/2 inch
> bolts/washers in the crank to hold the flywheel in place (as in
> symmetrical with the crank flange) unless of course the prop is
> already bolted on.
>
> SORRY if this has already been posted somewhere, I couldn't find
> it and thought it might help some of you. It's also during the
> weekend, so PlanePower is closed - they may have already
> discovered these Gates numbers, I'll give them a call tomorrow
> One thing is for sure - their recommended Gates XL7300 would not
> have worked on my set up! The Revisions from Plane Power that I
> have are dated: 8/27/12 - maybe they have an updated one.
>
>
> Rich Hansen
> RV-6A sold
> Rv-10 Fitting Cowl, Panel Ordered!
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
If you want more than 'feel', use a torque wrench instead of the breaker bar.
Plane Power and Lycoming list torque limits.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407065#407065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
Correct Bob on torque, and correct Jim on alignment.
FOLLOW-UP:
Did speak to Plane Power today. They were not aware of belt size issues or alignment
issues. They said that they would contact Vans to see what else needs
to be done between the two of them. PP said that they did redesign the u-bracket
and some other things (not too long ago) to accommodate Vans change to the
Lycoming 2 grove pulley that was requested primarily by the Brazil builders.
Regarding alignment: My mounted alt. sits forward approx .125 of where it should
be. After hours of waiting on the phone for Vans, or talking to Plane Power,
I'm tired of waiting so will just shave off .125 of the rear 1001 spacer and
add 2 washers in the front. I'll add the same two washers at the adjustment
bracket.
I also did find today 6 pages on VAF regarding similar issues - (see RV-10 Alternator
Alignment Issues) These seem to have started about Oct. 2011 - it is hard
to believe these issues are still not resolved. Some refer to Vans having
a different install kit with different spacers for $30.00? Of course, no where
to be found on Vans website or parts cat.
Yet one MORE issue is the #7 bolt placement. The Plane Power instructions have
you placing the head of the bolt in from the front. On mine, utilizing the aforementioned
newer style U-bracket, the bolt hits the ring gear and will not
be removable without dropping the bolts that retain the U-bracket, or taking the
prop off - should the Alternator ever need servicing! Neither a great option,
so at this point i will be installing the bolt from the rear, thus placing
the washer and securing nut in the front. Don't have cowl fit yet so don't know
if this will work. Anybody please chime in if they tried this and it did,
or didn't work?
Regarding belt size, I stick to my guns, for my application the 7325 is the ticket..
Will post anything of value other than, " that's the first we've heard of that"
!
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Plan on drilling the nut and bolt end to secure with safety wire the
reverse oriented bolt. You should be fine.
John Cox
On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 5:37 PM, Karol Hansen wrot
e:
>
>
> Correct Bob on torque, and correct Jim on alignment.
>
> FOLLOW-UP:
>
> Did speak to Plane Power today. They were not aware of belt size issues
> or alignment issues. They said that they would contact Vans to see what
> else needs to be done between the two of them. PP said that they did
> redesign the u-bracket and some other things (not too long ago) to
> accommodate Vans change to the Lycoming 2 grove pulley that was requested
> primarily by the Brazil builders.
>
> Regarding alignment: My mounted alt. sits forward approx .125 of where i
t
> should be. After hours of waiting on the phone for Vans, or talking to
> Plane Power, I'm tired of waiting so will just shave off .125 of the rear
> 1001 spacer and add 2 washers in the front. I'll add the same two washer
s
> at the adjustment bracket.
> I also did find today 6 pages on VAF regarding similar issues - (see RV-1
0
> Alternator Alignment Issues) These seem to have started about Oct. 2011
-
> it is hard to believe these issues are still not resolved. Some refer to
> Vans having a different install kit with different spacers for $30.00? O
f
> course, no where to be found on Vans website or parts cat.
>
>
> Yet one MORE issue is the #7 bolt placement. The Plane Power instruction
s
> have you placing the head of the bolt in from the front. On mine,
> utilizing the aforementioned newer style U-bracket, the bolt hits the rin
g
> gear and will not be removable without dropping the bolts that retain the
> U-bracket, or taking the prop off - should the Alternator ever need
> servicing! Neither a great option, so at this point i will be installing
> the bolt from the rear, thus placing the washer and securing nut in the
> front. Don't have cowl fit yet so don't know if this will work. Anybody
> please chime in if they tried this and it did, or didn't work?
>
> Regarding belt size, I stick to my guns, for my application the 7325 is
> the ticket=85..
>
> Will post anything of value other than, " that's the first we've heard of
> that" !
>
> Rich
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
| From: | "charliewaffles" <mcooper(at)live.com> |
Call Vans and tell them you need the Plane Power Alternator Adapter Spacer kit.
Its not listed in the parts catalog but the tech guys will know what you need
for the RV10.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407115#407115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
Thank you Charlie. Did take 10 minutes last night and shaved off .125 of the rear
spacer, added 2 washers in the front as well as at the bracket and as expected,
now a perfect fit and alignment. Because of your post Charlie I did try
Vans again this morning and this time got right through - they did say they
had a spacer kit specifically for the RV-10. I ordered it anyway, and strongly
suggested that it would be helpful and the right thing to do to include those
parts in the FF kit or any Alt. kit ordered for the RV-10. Just put it in
the kits and change the price if you have to - its only a few dollars!
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Rich,
Everyone but Vans agrees with you. I'm still astonished that if you buy the engine
and fwf kit from vans, they expect you to know that you have to order the
bushings. Plus pay $30 for them.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 20, 2013, at 1:51 PM, Karol Hansen wrote:
Thank you Charlie. Did take 10 minutes last night and shaved off .125 of the rear
spacer, added 2 washers in the front as well as at the bracket and as expected,
now a perfect fit and alignment. Because of your post Charlie I did try
Vans again this morning and this time got right through - they did say they
had a spacer kit specifically for the RV-10. I ordered it anyway, and strongly
suggested that it would be helpful and the right thing to do to include those
parts in the FF kit or any Alt. kit ordered for the RV-10. Just put it in
the kits and change the price if you have to - its only a few dollars!
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
I'm getting to the point where there aren't a whole lot of parts left, and one
of them appears to be a large airplane like thing. So, this starts me thinking
about things like first flights and fly off and, of course, that leads to insurance.
Insurance, as I'm sure most of you are aware, wants about two hundred and fifty
hours in a log book before they'll cover you in an experimental airplane... which
is fine... except my log book seems to have about 161.4 hours in it (give
or take). So, I'm looking at a good 90.6 hours in a rental airplane before I
can take off in my own in a financially responsible way.
Now, I'm sure I could use (and plan on) a good 20-30 hours to get current, get
my high performance sign off and my transition training... but what happens after
that I don't know. I could get my IFR, but had certainly hoped to do that
time in my own plane... and it's sure going to be hard to see my shiny new RV-10
sitting in a hangar for the better part of a year before I can fly it.
Are there any low timers out there who would like to share what you did?
Are there any high timers out there with suggestions?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Prop hung and about half way through the baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I just had a conversation with another builder that had a few hours less than you
do. Unfortunately, he was with Aggressive. (So was I). Aggressive is getting
out of the aviation business and just sent out non-renewal notices.
In addition to the hours, many companies didn't want to cover Phase 1 , many wouldn't
cover first flight.
In talking with my agent, she relayed that another RV-10 was just quoted $17k w/
$10k deductible. Ouch!!!
If were in your shoes, I would get current first. Not knowing you situation, I
don't want to make any assumptions on how long that will take. Then I would go
to an ifr boot camp were you can getting your rating in a week or so. Some
will even come to you. Naturally, you won't be very ifr proficient at this stage,
but you would have the rating.
This would kill two birds with one stone. Get more hours and the additional rating.
This will drive your premiums lower.
Then after phase 1, you can work on becoming ifr proficient.
I don't think there are any short cuts other than throwing cash to build hours
and get your ifr rating quickly.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 22, 2013, at 1:00 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
I'm getting to the point where there aren't a whole lot of parts left, and one
of them appears to be a large airplane like thing. So, this starts me thinking
about things like first flights and fly off and, of course, that leads to insurance.
Insurance, as I'm sure most of you are aware, wants about two hundred and fifty
hours in a log book before they'll cover you in an experimental airplane... which
is fine... except my log book seems to have about 161.4 hours in it (give
or take). So, I'm looking at a good 90.6 hours in a rental airplane before I
can take off in my own in a financially responsible way.
Now, I'm sure I could use (and plan on) a good 20-30 hours to get current, get
my high performance sign off and my transition training... but what happens after
that I don't know. I could get my IFR, but had certainly hoped to do that
time in my own plane... and it's sure going to be hard to see my shiny new RV-10
sitting in a hangar for the better part of a year before I can fly it.
Are there any low timers out there who would like to share what you did?
Are there any high timers out there with suggestions?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Prop hung and about half way through the baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | Jim Beyer <fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com> |
My thoughts start flying something, anything, now while finishing up the RV-10;
buy the gas for someone to fly the phase 1; earn your instrument rating in the
RV-10 with a CFII/evaluator who is RV-10 insurable; take pilots or CFIs who
are RV-10 insurable on trips (breakfasts, lunch, Caribbean, etc) -- all while
you are flying your RV-10 building hours. At 250 hours total time, you get to
fly by yourself. Fly safe, -Jim
On Aug 22, 2013, at 12:44 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I'm getting to the point where there aren't a whole lot of parts left, and one
of them appears to be a large airplane like thing. So, this starts me thinking
about things like first flights and fly off and, of course, that leads to insurance.
>
> Insurance, as I'm sure most of you are aware, wants about two hundred and fifty
hours in a log book before they'll cover you in an experimental airplane...
which is fine... except my log book seems to have about 161.4 hours in it (give
or take). So, I'm looking at a good 90.6 hours in a rental airplane before
I can take off in my own in a financially responsible way.
>
> Now, I'm sure I could use (and plan on) a good 20-30 hours to get current, get
my high performance sign off and my transition training... but what happens
after that I don't know. I could get my IFR, but had certainly hoped to do that
time in my own plane... and it's sure going to be hard to see my shiny new RV-10
sitting in a hangar for the better part of a year before I can fly it.
>
> Are there any low timers out there who would like to share what you did?
>
> Are there any high timers out there with suggestions?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Prop hung and about half way through the baffles
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Pretty much agree with Bob, above.
Insurance requirements are a constantly moving target.
Some thoughts:
High performance endorsement. You do not just want the paperwork, you want CS prop
operation to be second nature to you before you get into your plane. I presume
from your post that you have never flown anything close to the speed an RV10
is capable of. You will find yourself behind the plane, mentally.
Are you planning on doing the phase one testing? At a minimum, have you had some
spin training and do you feel comfortable with stalls and potential spins (not
that the ten is likely to spin, but you are after all a test pilot)?
So, option one: go fly, get another 50 hours. Fly some faster planes. Get used
to the CS prop. Use the time to get your instrument rating.
Option two: Hire a commercial or ATP rated pilot who is reasonable to insure to
do your phase one testing. Then hire a CFI who is reasonable to insure (could
be the same person) to instruct you in your plane, get high performance endorsement,
ifr rating.
Neither of these will be inexpensive. Maybe others have other ideas.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407239#407239
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
I think recent flight experience plays a part in this. So before you start
talking serious with the insurance agent, get some.
One way to get a little extra time and not that much money.....find friends
who need safety pilots.
Also, if you do not have an HP rating (is that what it is called, maybe
endorsement), get one asap so you can fly as safety pilot for your friends
with HP aircraft. I log this time when I am pilot in command. May not be
a lot, but every little bit helps.
For years I chased a 10% discount by doing extra training and a IPC each
year. But I am a numbers guys at heart and you know, it always cost me
money to save the 10%. If $$ are the driver, than make sure you look
closely at all options and figure out the true costs. I know that there is
value in getting an IPC each year.....but I think I get more real training
when me and my instructor just go out and focus on one or two things and not
worry about him covering his but signing off an IPC.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here
I just had a conversation with another builder that had a few hours less
than you do. Unfortunately, he was with Aggressive. (So was I). Aggressive
is getting out of the aviation business and just sent out non-renewal
notices.
In addition to the hours, many companies didn't want to cover Phase 1 , many
wouldn't cover first flight.
In talking with my agent, she relayed that another RV-10 was just quoted
$17k w/ $10k deductible. Ouch!!!
If were in your shoes, I would get current first. Not knowing you situation,
I don't want to make any assumptions on how long that will take. Then I
would go to an ifr boot camp were you can getting your rating in a week or
so. Some will even come to you. Naturally, you won't be very ifr
proficient at this stage, but you would have the rating.
This would kill two birds with one stone. Get more hours and the additional
rating. This will drive your premiums lower.
Then after phase 1, you can work on becoming ifr proficient.
I don't think there are any short cuts other than throwing cash to build
hours and get your ifr rating quickly.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 22, 2013, at 1:00 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
I'm getting to the point where there aren't a whole lot of parts left, and
one of them appears to be a large airplane like thing. So, this starts me
thinking about things like first flights and fly off and, of course, that
leads to insurance.
Insurance, as I'm sure most of you are aware, wants about two hundred and
fifty hours in a log book before they'll cover you in an experimental
airplane... which is fine... except my log book seems to have about 161.4
hours in it (give or take). So, I'm looking at a good 90.6 hours in a rental
airplane before I can take off in my own in a financially responsible way.
Now, I'm sure I could use (and plan on) a good 20-30 hours to get current,
get my high performance sign off and my transition training... but what
happens after that I don't know. I could get my IFR, but had certainly hoped
to do that time in my own plane... and it's sure going to be hard to see my
shiny new RV-10 sitting in a hangar for the better part of a year before I
can fly it.
Are there any low timers out there who would like to share what you did?
Are there any high timers out there with suggestions?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Prop hung and about half way through the baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
1) go to Texas or Oregon and get the transition training.
2) Self insure during flyoff
3) fly your plane and get your 25-40 hours you need.
Once you have your flyoff completed, it will be easier to get insurance. I
went with Skysmith, they worked with me.
Took less than 5 hours to get from not flying 20 years ago to flying
the -10. After the 1st flight I figured out the plane puts up with a monkey
flying it.. (dont ask me how I know)
Once you have the flyoff done , you'll feel more comfortable flying
instruments and you can get a great CFI in Chino to fly with you and get you
back on track. I'll gladly fly with you if you want a safety pilot.
Let's get out one day and you can fly my plane.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 10:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here
I'm getting to the point where there aren't a whole lot of parts left, and
one of them appears to be a large airplane like thing. So, this starts me
thinking about things like first flights and fly off and, of course, that
leads to insurance.
Insurance, as I'm sure most of you are aware, wants about two hundred and
fifty hours in a log book before they'll cover you in an experimental
airplane... which is fine... except my log book seems to have about 161.4
hours in it (give or take). So, I'm looking at a good 90.6 hours in a rental
airplane before I can take off in my own in a financially responsible way.
Now, I'm sure I could use (and plan on) a good 20-30 hours to get current,
get my high performance sign off and my transition training... but what
happens after that I don't know. I could get my IFR, but had certainly hoped
to do that time in my own plane... and it's sure going to be hard to see my
shiny new RV-10 sitting in a hangar for the better part of a year before I
can fly it.
Are there any low timers out there who would like to share what you did?
Are there any high timers out there with suggestions?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Prop hung and about half way through the baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Paul Poberezny - Gone West |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Word from EAA that Paul passed away this morning. This is very sad news, even
if we expect the day to come - it still sucks. We owe much if not all of our
hobby and joy to Paul and the others he worked with to found EAA and its values.
Thanks for everything you did Paul - God Speed.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407245#407245
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paul Poberezny - Gone West |
| From: | bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
What a legacy! He saw his EAA dream grow for 60 years. Amazing.
On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 11:46 AM, jkreidler
wrote:
> jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
>
> Word from EAA that Paul passed away this morning. This is very sad news,
> even if we expect the day to come - it still sucks. We owe much if not all
> of our hobby and joy to Paul and the others he worked with to found EAA and
> its values. Thanks for everything you did Paul - God Speed.
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407245#407245
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
Just keep in mind that safety pilot time logging is complicated and only
loosely related to who is PIC and who is qualified to be PIC. So read up
on AOPA website on the intimate details to do it correctly.
You do not need anything past single engine land to log second in
command time. You can log PIC any time where you are sole manipulator of
the controls, even when you are not qualified to be PIC. So travel time
enroute to/from an instrument approach, if PIC will let you fly it,
would count.
You can log PIC as safety any time you are qualified to be PIC. That
does argue for getting the HP endorsement(and complex while you are at
it) early and then go play safety for Bonanza and Mooney and Cirrus
pilots. Mooney is particularly good because its speeds are very similar,
especially on takeoff and landing speeds. It also takes planning to get
slowed up enough for landing.
On 8/22/2013 11:26 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> I think recent flight experience plays a part in this. So before you start
> talking serious with the insurance agent, get some.
>
> One way to get a little extra time and not that much money.....find friends
> who need safety pilots.
>
> Also, if you do not have an HP rating (is that what it is called, maybe
> endorsement), get one asap so you can fly as safety pilot for your friends
> with HP aircraft. I log this time when I am pilot in command. May not be
> a lot, but every little bit helps.
>
> For years I chased a 10% discount by doing extra training and a IPC each
> year. But I am a numbers guys at heart and you know, it always cost me
> money to save the 10%. If $$ are the driver, than make sure you look
> closely at all options and figure out the true costs. I know that there is
> value in getting an IPC each year.....but I think I get more real training
> when me and my instructor just go out and focus on one or two things and not
> worry about him covering his but signing off an IPC.
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 11:44 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here
>
>
> I just had a conversation with another builder that had a few hours less
> than you do. Unfortunately, he was with Aggressive. (So was I). Aggressive
> is getting out of the aviation business and just sent out non-renewal
> notices.
>
> In addition to the hours, many companies didn't want to cover Phase 1 , many
> wouldn't cover first flight.
>
> In talking with my agent, she relayed that another RV-10 was just quoted
> $17k w/ $10k deductible. Ouch!!!
>
> If were in your shoes, I would get current first. Not knowing you situation,
> I don't want to make any assumptions on how long that will take. Then I
> would go to an ifr boot camp were you can getting your rating in a week or
> so. Some will even come to you. Naturally, you won't be very ifr
> proficient at this stage, but you would have the rating.
>
> This would kill two birds with one stone. Get more hours and the additional
> rating. This will drive your premiums lower.
>
> Then after phase 1, you can work on becoming ifr proficient.
>
>
> I don't think there are any short cuts other than throwing cash to build
> hours and get your ifr rating quickly.
>
> Bob
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 22, 2013, at 1:00 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
>
> I'm getting to the point where there aren't a whole lot of parts left, and
> one of them appears to be a large airplane like thing. So, this starts me
> thinking about things like first flights and fly off and, of course, that
> leads to insurance.
>
> Insurance, as I'm sure most of you are aware, wants about two hundred and
> fifty hours in a log book before they'll cover you in an experimental
> airplane... which is fine... except my log book seems to have about 161.4
> hours in it (give or take). So, I'm looking at a good 90.6 hours in a rental
> airplane before I can take off in my own in a financially responsible way.
>
> Now, I'm sure I could use (and plan on) a good 20-30 hours to get current,
> get my high performance sign off and my transition training... but what
> happens after that I don't know. I could get my IFR, but had certainly hoped
> to do that time in my own plane... and it's sure going to be hard to see my
> shiny new RV-10 sitting in a hangar for the better part of a year before I
> can fly it.
>
> Are there any low timers out there who would like to share what you did?
>
> Are there any high timers out there with suggestions?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Prop hung and about half way through the baffles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Sorry Kelly, that is not correct.
You may log PIC time as a safety pilot if you ARE the PIC. Not just qualified to
be. Generally this is not true. Here's one test: if the engine quits, who is
going to decide what field to land in? In most circumstances the aircraft owner
will take over all such decisions, so he is PIC. In such cases you can only
log the time as "other", not PIC. Sometimes two rental pilots will make a deal,
where they each agree that the safety pilot is PIC. As long as they mean it,
then they both get to log PIC time! I know some pilot examiners for whom this
practice raises a red flag, though.
Kelly is correct, you do not need a High Performance endorsement to serve as a
safety pilot in any single engine plane (assuming you hold private, single engine).
You do need a medical. And you cannot serve as PIC.
FYI I am a CFII and do hold a LODA (waiver) to give transition training in my 10.
But I have not renewed my insurance to cover this; too expensive for too little
business.
LODA trainers are supposed to confine themselves to transition training, nothing
else. They are not supposed to sign off high performance endorsements.
Self insuring. To be safe you need to honestly answer this question: Deep down
in my heart, am I willing to throw $100K down the toilet? Or, if the engine quits
over a nice corn field, but I think maybe I can make it back to the airport,
what will you decide?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407273#407273
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Correction: my post should have said that you cannot act as PIC in a high performance
airplane without a HP endorsement.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407274#407274
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
Sorry Bob but both your statements are partially incorrect. Being PIC
and the ability to log PIC are two totally different things. If you
don't believe me go to
AOPA for both their guidance and opinion of FAA general counsel. Your
example of safety pilot acting and logging PIC and the pilot flying
under hood also logging PIC as sole manipulator of controls is perfect
example. Anyone that is sole manipulator of controls can log PIC time
regardless of whether they are qualified by endorsements to be PIC. So
someone transitioning to HP can log the time as PIC while receiving dual
because they are the sole manipulator and are a licensed pilot.
Just as training for commercial license can all be logged as both dual
and PIC. On the other hand safety pilot may not log PIC time if they are
not qualified to be PIC. Like I said, it is a tricky subject that CFI's
and examiners frequently get it wrong.
On 8/22/2013 2:59 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Correction: my post should have said that you cannot act as PIC in a high performance
airplane without a HP endorsement.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407274#407274
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Kelly,
I stand by my post.
Everything you said in your last post is correct.
But your first post said you could log time as PIC if you were acting as a safety
pilot and were qualified to be PIC. That is not good enough. You must actually
be THE PIC, the person legally responsible for the safe and legal operation
of the aircraft, in this particular case. The FAR 61 basis allows logging as
PIC time a "required crewmember" who is acting as THE PIC.
On any flight it may be possible for multiple pilots to be logging time as PIC;
but only one person is THE PIC.
If you allow someone else to fly your plane under the hood, and you are the safety
pilot, then you are almost certainly THE PIC, and you both get to log the
time as PIC time*. But if you swap seats and you fly under the hood, only you
can log PiC time. Your safety pilot friend is most likely not responsible for
the legal operation of the aircraft, not THE PIC, he can only log "other" time.
If AOPA says otherwise they've got it wrong.
*ironicly, this is only true if you are vfr. If ifr then no safety pilot is required,
so no logging of time for the person not flying.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407289#407289
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Kelly,
I went and read the aopa article. They have it right. They say to log PiC time
when you are a safety pilot you must be ACTING as PIC. (not just qualified).
As you said the rules are complicated.
Trivia question: How is it possible for a non-instrument rated private pilot aircraft
owner(person A), his non-instrument rated private pilot friend (B), and
a CFII with no medical certificate (C), to ALL log PIC time on one flight?
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407293#407293
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I'd say we will have to agree to disagree. Theoretically, the
owner/operator of the aircraft flying under the hood should agree that
while he is under the hood the safety pilot will act as the PIC, but given
that who is acting as PIC can change at any moment as long as the safety is
qualified to be PIC they can in fact log PIC during the simulated
instrument time.
Just as the person manipulating the controls does not have to be qualified
to be PIC to log the time. Or if the safety is instrument rated and the
pilot flying isn't current they can both go get some actual to log, where
there is no question who is legally PIC.
For those who would like to read the article in question, it is at
http://www.aopa.org/News-and-Video/All-News/2009/October/1/Answers-for-Pilots-Logging-time.aspx
The whole subject is mostly counting angels on a pinhead except when using
the time to qualify for a rating.
All that is required is that the two pilots agree that during the simulated
instrument time the safety pilot will act as PIC. They can change that
decision at anytime during the flight.
JMHO with 40 yrs of following the subject while licensed and 35 yrs of
maintaining instrument currency.
On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 6:19 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Kelly,
>
> I stand by my post.
> Everything you said in your last post is correct.
> But your first post said you could log time as PIC if you were acting as a
> safety pilot and were qualified to be PIC. That is not good enough. You
> must actually be THE PIC, the person legally responsible for the safe and
> legal operation of the aircraft, in this particular case. The FAR 61 basis
> allows logging as PIC time a "required crewmember" who is acting as THE PIC.
> On any flight it may be possible for multiple pilots to be logging time as
> PIC; but only one person is THE PIC.
> If you allow someone else to fly your plane under the hood, and you are
> the safety pilot, then you are almost certainly THE PIC, and you both get
> to log the time as PIC time*. But if you swap seats and you fly under the
> hood, only you can log PiC time. Your safety pilot friend is most likely
> not responsible for the legal operation of the aircraft, not THE PIC, he
> can only log "other" time.
> If AOPA says otherwise they've got it wrong.
>
> *ironicly, this is only true if you are vfr. If ifr then no safety pilot
> is required, so no logging of time for the person not flying.
>
> Bob
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407289#407289
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Okay, I can agree with this - theoretically!
I just do not like to see misinformation being distributed on the internet. If
you are going to log this type of time (PIC safety pilot time) you must claim
to be the actual PIC - being qualified is not enough.
Getting back to the original topic, suppose "John" applies for insurance, and says
he has 300 hours of logged PIC time. He gets coverage, but unfortunately soon
after has an accident, his plane is totaled, plus he is being sued. The insurance
company asks to see his logbook, and they notice 50 hours logged as PIC
while serving as safety pilot in "Bob's" airplane. The insurance company asks
Bob to swear, under oath, that John did in fact serve as the person responsible
for the operation of Bob's airplane. Bob knows that if he says 'yes' not
only is he lying under oath, but his own insurance company, which would not allow
John to be PIC in Bob's plane, will be very unhappy.
My point is, this is fudging the rules. Just be aware that there may be consequences.
No one will care unless you have an accident, or apply for a new rating
or license.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407306#407306
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight time logging |
I see your point. My point was that who is acting is not set in stone
from takeoff to landing. Say John is validly acting as PIC in Bob's
plane while being safety pilot. A problem arises, at which point Bob
tosses the "hood" and says "I got it". Bob is now PIC and resolves
whatever the issue. Bob's insurance company isn't going to care that
John was acting while Bob was under the hood, because in fact it makes
no more difference to the safety of flight whether Bob or John is acting
while Bob is under the hood. They both understand before the flight that
in the case of anything unusual occurring the simulated instrument
flight will discontinue until the issue is resolved, so there is no
insurance issue.
If Bob testifies that John in fact flew as his safety pilot and acted as
PIC while Bob was under the hood, his insurance company is unlikely to
hear about it, since your hypothetical costs Bob's insurance nothing,
there is no claim, and Bob is being diligent at maintaining currency.
John's insurance will be satisfied that his PIC time was in fact valid.
So Bob's insurance company is in fact not going to be upset with him.
I'm just pointing out that who is acting during any phase of flight can
change in a heartbeat. There just needs to be good cockpit resource
management and understanding between the two pilots. Simple version is
they agree that safety pilot will act as PIC while the pilot flying is
under the hood. If any urgent situation comes up, safety pilot will
advise(fly if necessary) while pilot flying removes hood and takes over.
Not to mention all the nonsense when insurance companies and FAA get
involved and they will assume barring evidence to contrary, that the
pilot most senior in ratings/experience in the cockpit is the PIC
regardless of which seat occupied, and many cases where FAA has issued
violations on that basis. I wasn't suggesting that anyone falsify what
they log, just that it isn't that difficult to swap back and forth who
is acting as PIC and logs the time.
It is trickier when 2 or more pilots desire to log PIC simultaneously.
The max number possible is a question reserved for bar bets.
On 8/22/2013 8:36 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Okay, I can agree with this - theoretically!
>
> I just do not like to see misinformation being distributed on the internet. If
you are going to log this type of time (PIC safety pilot time) you must claim
to be the actual PIC - being qualified is not enough.
>
> Getting back to the original topic, suppose "John" applies for insurance, and
says he has 300 hours of logged PIC time. He gets coverage, but unfortunately
soon after has an accident, his plane is totaled, plus he is being sued. The
insurance company asks to see his logbook, and they notice 50 hours logged as
PIC while serving as safety pilot in "Bob's" airplane. The insurance company
asks Bob to swear, under oath, that John did in fact serve as the person responsible
for the operation of Bob's airplane. Bob knows that if he says 'yes' not
only is he lying under oath, but his own insurance company, which would not
allow John to be PIC in Bob's plane, will be very unhappy.
>
> My point is, this is fudging the rules. Just be aware that there may be consequences.
No one will care unless you have an accident, or apply for a new rating
or license.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407306#407306
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flight time logging |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The truth is that, as you implied, who is really the PIC is only determined after
the fact, by a court or the NTSB (in FAA enforcement actions). I know of one
case where the court held the guy in the back seat to be the PIC.
In the example I gave, the insurance company is going to feel that John falsified
his application, by overstating his PIC time. The question is, what will a
judge and jury think? If Bob states that he was prepared, on a moment's notice,
to countermand any order John may have given, a reaonable jury could easily
find that John was never the real PIC, and therefore was not entitled to log the
safety pilot time as PIC time.
People can log whatever they want; but they should know that they may have to justify
and defend what they claimed, and at the most inopportune times.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407308#407308
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flight time logging |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My last argument before I call it a night.
Take a look at the definition of PIC in 14 CFR Part 1.
It says the PIC is "the final authority..."
If Bob can countermand John's orders, there is no way John can actually be the
PIC.
But I think we agree on what started all this: If you claim PIC time for time as
a safety pilot, you must also claim that you were the actual PIC, as defined
in part 1. Being qualified to be PIC is not enough.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407309#407309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)clear.net> |
| Subject: | Parachutes For Sale |
TWO PARACHUTES W/ FRESH RE-PACKS, $950 EACH OR BOTH FOR $1800.00 For Both
are Butler Backpacks with 26' TriConical Canopy, Steerable w/ toggles.
Pictures available upon request. Never been jumped. Keep at home in closet
when not actually being flown in airplane. dav1111 at clear dot net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tyson Richmond" <tysonr(at)tysonr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
Jeff,
Last year, Shanna Linton (877)-577-8267 from NationAir was able to find me a
policy with US Specialty Insurance for about $3K. I had less than 50 total
hrs, all in a C172. They required a transition training signoff which I got
from David Maib (who was outstanding). Good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance/Hours/Where to go from here |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I think the bad news here is that the insurance companies have been experiencing
losses, or at least are nervous, and are pulling back. As Bob Leffer mentioned,
some of the low cost companies have left this market. Others are tightening
up who they will insure. I know Jenny (NationAir) recently posted that new quotes
for tailwheel planes were now requiring a lot more pilot experience than
previously.
My insurance just renewed last month, and my previous carrier (Chartis) wanted
a small increase despite my passing 100 hr time in type (which is usually a benchmark
for a lower premium). Fortunately another solid company was willing to
quote less.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407372#407372
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
karolamy(at)roadrunner.co wrote:
> Thank you Charlie. Did take 10 minutes last night and shaved off .125 of the
rear spacer, added 2 washers in the front as well as at the bracket and as expected,
now a perfect fit and alignment. Because of your post Charlie I did try
Vans again this morning and this time got right through - they did say they
had a spacer kit specifically for the RV-10. I ordered it anyway, and strongly
suggested that it would be helpful and the right thing to do to include those
parts in the FF kit or any Alt. kit ordered for the RV-10. Just put it in
the kits and change the price if you have to - its only a few dollars!
>
> Rich
Yes, my mod and belt size still runs fine. Plane Power and Van's were made aware
of this issue 2 yrs ago by at least Bob and myself. Wonder if all of those plans
errors still exist 1000 tail kits later?
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407390#407390
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
On 8/23/2013 5:31 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
>
> karolamy(at)roadrunner.co wrote:
>> Thank you Charlie. Did take 10 minutes last night and shaved off .125 of the
rear spacer, added 2 washers in the front as well as at the bracket and as expected,
now a perfect fit and alignment. Because of your post Charlie I did
try Vans again this morning and this time got right through - they did say they
had a spacer kit specifically for the RV-10. I ordered it anyway, and strongly
suggested that it would be helpful and the right thing to do to include
those parts in the FF kit or any Alt. kit ordered for the RV-10. Just put it
in the kits and change the price if you have to - its only a few dollars!
>>
>> Rich
>
> Yes, my mod and belt size still runs fine. Plane Power and Van's were made aware
of this issue 2 yrs ago by at least Bob and myself. Wonder if all of those
plans errors still exist 1000 tail kits later?
I don't think so. But my case is a little special. My alternator came
in a box .... by itself. No mounting hardware, no belt, no installation
instructions .... just the alternator. I called Vans and got the
biggest run-around ..... and no satisfaction. They told me to call
Plane Power.
I have friends at Plane Power/Skytek and they stepped up and made me
whole. Once I got the parts everything went together and fit just fine.
Since I didn't buy the alternator from Plane Power I expected Vans to
take care of the problem ..... I was wrong. I sure don't have a good
feeling about Vans customer service now.
Linn
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407390#407390
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Hmm, let me guess, you must have talked to some unnamed support person
whose name starts with initials KS. AKA "we have never heard of that
before"
On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 3:04 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
>>
> I don't think so. But my case is a little special. My alternator came in
> a box .... by itself. No mounting hardware, no belt, no installation
> instructions .... just the alternator. I called Vans and got the biggest
> run-around ..... and no satisfaction. They told me to call Plane Power.
> I have friends at Plane Power/Skytek and they stepped up and made me
> whole. Once I got the parts everything went together and fit just fine.
> Since I didn't buy the alternator from Plane Power I expected Vans to take
> care of the problem ..... I was wrong. I sure don't have a good feeling
> about Vans customer service now.
> Linn
>
>
>> --------
>> Wayne G.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/**viewtopic.php?p=407390#407390>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paul Poberezny - Gone West |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
As a late comer to EAA (12 years), I never met Paul, but in my 10 trips to EAA-OSH,
I came to realize the awesome legacy that he has left us. What an amazing
visionary! The spirit, the volunteer-ism, the ability to draw different parts
of the aviation community together with new initiatives. Tom carried on his legacy
in the EAA spirit till he was no longer able to continue. After the recent
debacle, I feel that EAA is back on the track that Paul laid out for the organization.
Mr. Pelton has done an awesome job. After attending the general meeting
at AirVenture-2013, Paul can rest easy knowing that his EAA legacy lives
- Bless your family and wife during this sad week.
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407403#407403
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
During my 2nd condition inspection I see that both by throttle and
mixture cables have started to wear through their sheathing in spots. I
know needing longer cables than the stock Vans cables is a common
requirement.
Where are people buying longer cables these days?
I see in the archives that Dave Saylor identifies someone is
California. I also see ACS (not Aircraft Spruce?).
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
I sent this note to Van's a year and a half ago. The response back was
'many people are using the recommended cable'. The 50.5" cable from Van's
worked just fine (standard Van's engine and push/pull controls).
Carl
From: Carl Froehlich [mailto:carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 8:58 PM
Subject: RV-10 Throttle Cable too short
I installed the Van's recommended throttle cable (CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5) in
my YIO-540 RV-10 project. It is simply too short. I just purchased and
installed the IO-360 cable (CT BLK THROTTLE 50.5) and it fits better, but
not perfect.
Recommend offering a 49" cable for the RV-10 throttle control, or at least
selling the 50.5" instead of the 47.5" cable to RV-10 builders.
Your recommended prop and mixture cables worked well.
Carl Froehlich
40528
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 6:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable
Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
During my 2nd condition inspection I see that both by throttle and mixture
cables have started to wear through their sheathing in spots. I know
needing longer cables than the stock Vans cables is a common requirement.
Where are people buying longer cables these days?
I see in the archives that Dave Saylor identifies someone is California. I
also see ACS (not Aircraft Spruce?).
Thanks.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Well, I am getting close to ordering my cables. I recall that ACS offers a
higher quality cable than what Vans buys from them. Top quality cables also
can be obtained from McFarlane, but are priced some where between 2 an 3
times Van's price. I need to talk to McFarlane as to what the real length
of their cables that they list for the RV-10 measure, as they show for
stock panel and for Aerosport panels but don't say what the length is on
their website.
On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 3:34 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> During my 2nd condition inspection I see that both by throttle and mixture
> cables have started to wear through their sheathing in spots. I know
> needing longer cables than the stock Vans cables is a common requirement.
>
> Where are people buying longer cables these days?
>
> I see in the archives that Dave Saylor identifies someone is California.
> I also see ACS (not Aircraft Spruce?).
>
> Thanks.
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
By ACS you mean Aircraft Spruce?
On 8/25/2013 7:41 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Well, I am getting close to ordering my cables. I recall that ACS
> offers a higher quality cable than what Vans buys from them. Top
> quality cables also can be obtained from McFarlane, but are priced
> some where between 2 an 3 times Van's price. I need to talk to
> McFarlane as to what the real length of their cables that they list
> for the RV-10 measure, as they show for stock panel and for Aerosport
> panels but don't say what the length is on their website.
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 3:34 PM, Bill Watson > wrote:
>
> >
>
> During my 2nd condition inspection I see that both by throttle and
> mixture cables have started to wear through their sheathing in
> spots. I know needing longer cables than the stock Vans cables is
> a common requirement.
>
> Where are people buying longer cables these days?
>
> I see in the archives that Dave Saylor identifies someone is
> California. I also see ACS (not Aircraft Spruce?).
>
> Thanks.
>
> ===================================
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
I'm one of the many people using the recommended cable. It works and it
is going to fail.
You gotta luv 'em. Seems like a case of selling what's on the truck.
On 8/25/2013 7:22 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> I sent this note to Van's a year and a half ago. The response back
> was 'many people are using the recommended cable'. The 50.5" cable
> from Van's worked just fine (standard Van's engine and push/pull
> controls).
>
> Carl
>
> From: Carl Froehlich [mailto:carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net]
>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 8:58 PM
>
> To: 'support(at)vansaircraft.com'
>
> Subject: RV-10 Throttle Cable too short
>
> I installed the Van's recommended throttle cable (CT BLK THROTTLE
> 47.5) in my YIO-540 RV-10 project. It is simply too short. I just
> purchased and installed the IO-360 cable (CT BLK THROTTLE 50.5) and it
> fits better, but not perfect.
>
> Recommend offering a 49" cable for the RV-10 throttle control, or at
> least selling the 50.5" instead of the 47.5" cable to RV-10 builders.
>
> Your recommended prop and mixture cables worked well.
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> 40528
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
> Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 6:34 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture
> cable
>
> >
>
> During my 2nd condition inspection I see that both by throttle and
> mixture cables have started to wear through their sheathing in spots.
> I know needing longer cables than the stock Vans cables is a common
> requirement.
>
> Where are people buying longer cables these days?
>
> I see in the archives that Dave Saylor identifies someone is
> California. I also see ACS (not Aircraft Spruce?).
>
> Thanks.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
California Push-Pull makes and sells CableCraft cables. The green cables
from Vans are also CableCraft, but I used a different spec that seems to
handle heat better. Look for 176-VTT part numbers. The part numbers in
the archives should be available from any CableCraft distributor.
I changed my cables at around 500 hours. The new ones have close to 800
now and are smooth as silk.
Please note the measurements I gave are for a quadrant.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 3:34 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> During my 2nd condition inspection I see that both by throttle and mixture
> cables have started to wear through their sheathing in spots. I know
> needing longer cables than the stock Vans cables is a common requirement.
>
> Where are people buying longer cables these days?
>
> I see in the archives that Dave Saylor identifies someone is California.
> I also see ACS (not Aircraft Spruce?).
>
> Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
http://www.acsproductsaz.com/our_products.htm
Which are sold by Spruce:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/controls_1acs.html
On 8/25/2013 5:34 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> By ACS you mean Aircraft Spruce?
>
> On 8/25/2013 7:41 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> Well, I am getting close to ordering my cables. I recall that ACS
>> offers a higher quality cable than what Vans buys from them. Top
>> quality cables also can be obtained from McFarlane, but are priced
>> some where between 2 an 3 times Van's price. I need to talk to
>> McFarlane as to what the real length of their cables that they list
>> for the RV-10 measure, as they show for stock panel and for Aerosport
>> panels but don't say what the length is on their website.
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 3:34 PM, Bill Watson > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> During my 2nd condition inspection I see that both by throttle
>> and mixture cables have started to wear through their sheathing
>> in spots. I know needing longer cables than the stock Vans
>> cables is a common requirement.
>>
>> Where are people buying longer cables these days?
>>
>> I see in the archives that Dave Saylor identifies someone is
>> California. I also see ACS (not Aircraft Spruce?).
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> ===================================
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>> 08/25/13
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Settling Measurement |
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
>From you guys with Van's engine and cowl, and that have at least 50 plus hours
of flying on your 10, how much did the engine settle relative to the fixed position
of the cowl? My 6 settled about 3/32 and that was about what I planned
for - lucky!
Also were you successful with only 1/8th inch gap between spinner bulkhead and
forward cowl as per plans, or do you wish you had increased this gap just a bit
to facilitate cowl removal?
I'm certain I'll get quite a variety of opinions, but that's ok, please just let
em rip!!!
Thanks Much,
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Settling Measurement |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
My -4 settled a lot (~1/4") but my -10 did not settle any appreciable amount.
I'd leave as large of a gap behind the spinner that you are comfortable with for
the reasons you gave. I didn't build a race plane, I was more of "I don't want
to scratch the paint and I want to be able to cowl it myself."
YMMV
-Mike Kraus
RV-10 flying 150 hours
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 25, 2013, at 11:21 PM, Karol Hansen wrote:
>
>
>> From you guys with Van's engine and cowl, and that have at least 50 plus hours
of flying on your 10, how much did the engine settle relative to the fixed
position of the cowl? My 6 settled about 3/32 and that was about what I planned
for - lucky!
>
> Also were you successful with only 1/8th inch gap between spinner bulkhead and
forward cowl as per plans, or do you wish you had increased this gap just a
bit to facilitate cowl removal?
>
> I'm certain I'll get quite a variety of opinions, but that's ok, please just
let em rip!!!
>
> Thanks Much,
> Rich
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
We used the throttle cable for the RV-7 which is 3" longer than the one supplied
for the -10. The mixture cable as supplied worked fine for us (standard panel
with push pull). - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407486#407486
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
For me, the standard cables supplied with the quadrant, with a standard
panel, worked
great. I used them for maybe 900 hours, and replaced the original green
ones
with black from Cablecraft for the higher temp rating, and also heat
shielded them
better at the time. I believe heat shielding is something that all
builders should
incorporate into their build, for cable longevity, as the cables all
route close enough
to the heat muffs that it may provide benefit. I won't know for another
1000 hours
or so, but I do expect these to last much longer.
When I re-ordered cables, the originals had fit perfectly. The
replacement cables
I ordered to the same lengths and they also fit. I don't know if they
would have
fit nearly as good if they were even 1/2 to 1" longer and they definitely
wouldn't have worked if they were shorter.
Make sure when you poll and watch the forums that you pay close attention
to the panel and actuator type that people give. Any change in panel
can lead to a change in cable length, and push-pull vs quadrant is
significant.
On a side note, I've seen it referenced many times that quadrant style is
the only type that they will allow in formation flying clinics...that's
for those
building who may wonder why one or the other would be better for them.
Tim
On 8/25/2013 6:22 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> I sent this note to Van's a year and a half ago. The response back
> was 'many people are using the recommended cable'. The 50.5" cable
> from Van's worked just fine (standard Van's engine and push/pull
> controls).
>
> Carl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Replaced my Vans cable at about 150 hrs. It developed a wear spot in the plastic
shield material. I tried fixing it with tank sealant. That also wore thru. Probably
best to start out with the proper cable. Vans is tooooo short!
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407505#407505
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
We are getting ready to have the airplane painted at Watertown in Wisconsin. Any
strong opinions / reasons for a single stage top coat versus a base coat /
clear coat system? In both cases we will use aviation finishes.
Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407507#407507
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Jason,
It is really a matter or opinion. The 2 finishes are different in
appearance, To some people the difference matters and to some it doesn't.
So the 1st question is to figure out if the difference matter. I don't
believe that there are any differences in how well one protects vs the
other. aA lot of that has to do with the painter and the prep. I believe
that a base/clear is going to cost more than a single stage for obvious
reasons (more labor). The next item would be to find your painter, some
painters will only work with single stage paint.
On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 8:43 AM, jkreidler
wrote:
> jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
>
> We are getting ready to have the airplane painted at Watertown in
> Wisconsin. Any strong opinions / reasons for a single stage top coat
> versus a base coat / clear coat system? In both cases we will use aviation
> finishes.
>
> Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407507#407507
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
It sounds like you have selected your painter. As Deems said, ask him. He's the
one who will have to stand by his work.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407512#407512
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I'm going single stage ..... just look at all the cars on the road with
clear coat problems. Done by professional robots. ;-)
However using clear coat does make spot repairs easier and hides base
coat imperfections. I'm no expert painter (nor do I play one on TV) but
I doubt there's much difference between 'aviation' and 'automotive'
finishes in this day and age. I do know the present day Imron (used to
be my favorite) is formulated differently than the old stuff .... thanks
to the EPA ...... and scratches easier.
Haven't really looked, but I think you'll have far more colors to choose
from with automotive paint. I really love the Dodge Viper Red!!!!
Linn
On 8/26/2013 11:43 AM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> We are getting ready to have the airplane painted at Watertown in Wisconsin.
Any strong opinions / reasons for a single stage top coat versus a base coat
/ clear coat system? In both cases we will use aviation finishes.
>
> Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407507#407507
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
The main issue is the thickness of your wallet.
For multiple colors and complex design, a couple of coats of clear over
everything is the way to go. For a good paint job that won't break the bank
and is easy to fix, single coat. On the RV-10 I did three color PPG base
and clear and I worked my ass off. Then a neighbor did one color single
stage PPG on a Lancair 4 and added vinyl stripes and N numbers. His plane
was a third the work of the RV-10, looks show plane good and you can't tell
the stripes are vinyl even an inch away.
Get some quotes from your painter - and if you want any checkers be ready
for a real big number.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
-->
We are getting ready to have the airplane painted at Watertown in Wisconsin.
Any strong opinions / reasons for a single stage top coat versus a base coat
/ clear coat system? In both cases we will use aviation finishes.
Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407507#407507
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Jason/Linn,
I paint, not an expert. Base/clear is very slick and provides great
protection, but is more expensive, heavier, AND harder to touch up, not
easier. If you get a chip in base/clear that goes through color, you have
to match/touch up the base color first, then put the clear back on, then if
you want it perfect you have to fine sand the clear flat to match and then
buff. Single coat, just dab the chip and go -- buff if it needs it.
I have doubts about those who paint multiple colors then clear it all. As I
understand it, the early cars with base/clear peeled because the clear
wasn't applied soon enough after the base was shot. Now it is recommended
to clear within 30-40 minutes after base so that it bonds. Otherwise the
base color is to be scuffed before clearing -- I've never done that. You
see the problem if you have multiple colors. If multiple colors are shot at
different times, then cleared days/weeks later -- you could probably get
away with it if your plane is constantly hangared (the cars that peel don't
spend most of their lives in a garage -- notice it is the horizontal
surfaces that peel), but then the single stage paint with "wet look"
hardener would look just as good and last just as long.
Later, - Lew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Lew is correct on minding times. With PPG you have 24 hours from base to
clear coat (tech sheet attached as example). On my plane I did paint with
wings off, control surfaces and tail feathers removed. This piecemeal
approach enabled me to manage times so I could always get the clear coat on
in the allotted time. Simple jigs to hold the wings so they can be rotated
for paint greatly simplified the work.
I also agree with Lew on the merits of single coat.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lewgall(at)charter.net
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
Hey Jason/Linn,
I paint, not an expert. Base/clear is very slick and provides great
protection, but is more expensive, heavier, AND harder to touch up, not
easier. If you get a chip in base/clear that goes through color, you have
to match/touch up the base color first, then put the clear back on, then if
you want it perfect you have to fine sand the clear flat to match and then
buff. Single coat, just dab the chip and go -- buff if it needs it.
I have doubts about those who paint multiple colors then clear it all. As I
understand it, the early cars with base/clear peeled because the clear
wasn't applied soon enough after the base was shot. Now it is recommended
to clear within 30-40 minutes after base so that it bonds. Otherwise the
base color is to be scuffed before clearing -- I've never done that. You
see the problem if you have multiple colors. If multiple colors are shot at
different times, then cleared days/weeks later -- you could probably get
away with it if your plane is constantly hangared (the cars that peel don't
spend most of their lives in a garage -- notice it is the horizontal
surfaces that peel), but then the single stage paint with "wet look"
hardener would look just as good and last just as long.
Later, - Lew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Paint (checkers) |
Regarding Checkers there is a relatively fast and less expensive way to get
painted checkers on your plane. It's the cheating car racers system for ch
eckered patterns. They take the base painted part and apply the thinnest pa
int tape available and grid out the desired section. Then they cover altern
ate boxes with tape and just paint, dry & peal. The difference is the top c
oat color checkers do not actually touch corner to corner. If you don't poi
nt it out no one will ever notice. I had to have it pointed out to me by th
e builder/painter (who was also a NASCAR mechanic) of my RV-4. All that bei
ng said Checkers are not nearly as common on -10 as the rest of the fleet.
Here is a photo & link:
Robin
[http://www.painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-4/RV-4%2084RM%20Photos/Fuse/RV84
RM-Fuse_%20(6).jpg]
[http://www.painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-4/RV-4%2084RM%20Photos/Fuse/RV84
RM-Fuse_%20(19).jpg]
http://www.painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-4/exterior.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 10:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
-->
The main issue is the thickness of your wallet.
For multiple colors and complex design, a couple of coats of clear over eve
rything is the way to go. For a good paint job that won't break the bank a
nd is easy to fix, single coat. On the RV-10 I did three color PPG base an
d clear and I worked my ass off. Then a neighbor did one color single stag
e PPG on a Lancair 4 and added vinyl stripes and N numbers. His plane was
a third the work of the RV-10, looks show plane good and you can't tell the
stripes are vinyl even an inch away.
Get some quotes from your painter - and if you want any checkers be ready f
or a real big number.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
-->
We are getting ready to have the airplane painted at Watertown in Wisconsin
.
Any strong opinions / reasons for a single stage top coat versus a base coa
t / clear coat system? In both cases we will use aviation finishes.
Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407507#407507
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint (checkers) |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I did my own paint and used a single stage Imron against the advice of a
few local, non aircraft paint shops. I think I made the right decision.
For the DIY painter, single stage is less work. But fixing mistakes can
be harder. The paint pros explained that you can just sand out 2 stage
mistakes and cover everything with clear coat for the A1 final finish.
I see how 2 stage is required for a show winning finish but the single
stage stuff is really nice. Get a nice flake color for your '10 in
single stage and I think you'll be very happy. If your shop recommends
it, then I know you'll be happy if they are any good at all.
My advice for the DIY painter is to find a local paint distributor you
want to work with and shoot one of the brands and lines that he
carries. I started with the idea of using aviation lines from Dupont or
PPG, but I ended up with a non-aviation line of Imron single stage
because the distributor was closer to me than the PPG shop. And only a
few places deal in the aviation lines. That turned out to be an inspired
decision. I made almost daily trips there during my paint process -
prices were good and while the advice was limited it was valuable for
this first time painter.
My guess is that that advice can be applied to paint selection by a
paint shop - use what they like to use. I think skills are surprisingly
product specific. Paints/coatings is very high tech stuff. Experience
and manufacturers technical support are invaluable.
Re regulations and their impact on paint; seems like almost everyone I
met at the local paint depot, who had been shooting polyurethanes over
the last decade was impaired. The guy who ran the place admitted that
he was impaired, not that it wasn't apparent. His paint booth had sat
idle for many years as a result. Many of his customers were impaired -
it only took a short conversation to experience the impairment. Very
scary indeed.
The modern polyurethane paints are fantastic - single or 2 stage - but
toxic as hell. Fresh air breather mandatory. My objective for each
mix, shoot and cure was to never even catch a whiff of it. I mostly
succeeded. I had befriended a neighbor who ran a local paint shop
specializing in trucks, RVs and other big things. They were painting
the hull of a big sailing ship which was too big for even their oversize
booths. They shot it outside and I came by to watch along with a few
others. I quickly ran out of there when I realized I was getting more
exposure to Imron single stage standing 100 feet away than I was going
to get in my own shop. I'm scared of the stuff. It's very bad.
Aviation or non-aviation paints? For our purposes, I don't think it
matters. I have no intention of dousing the plane in Skydrol. Rain is
like sandpaper at 400knots but even in a dive, I just can't flog the
horses that hard. 100knot rain erodes the old lacquers but good quality
poly seems impervious to 200knot rain. I think the sweet spot is a top
of the line Dupont Imron or PPG non-aviation paint. The lower priced
automotive lines are less durable but the industrial grade top of the
line stuff is "EAB aviation certified" in my unqualified opinion and
just a little cheaper than the aviation lines - and certainly more
available for the DIY painter.
Bill "I didn't plan to paint but it turned out to be one of the most
enjoyable challenges of the build" Watson
On 8/26/2013 11:43 AM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> We are getting ready to have the airplane painted at Watertown in Wisconsin.
Any strong opinions / reasons for a single stage top coat versus a base coat
/ clear coat system? In both cases we will use aviation finishes.
>
> Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407507#407507
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
I am not sure I would ever call anyone on this forum under-educated, much less
throw that response at a single individual. Not what I come to this forum for
and I think I can safely say I speak for more than myself. I appreciate the
information, not the insults.
michaelrorth wrote:
> Hear! Hear!
> Many Greenies are extremely under-educated.
> Thanks for the truth.
>
> One amplification, though.
> Not only has the lack of DDT resulted in the deaths of millions in the past,
> the deaths continue today.
> This is why the mosquito is often referred to as "the deadliest animal on
> earth".
> Michael
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> --
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407541#407541
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Thanks Bill, I wish I had a place to spray. I think after doing the entire build
to get to the end and say I am not capable of painting is a bit deflating,
after all the best thing about the process is the education and experience. Thanks
for the feedback. - Jason
Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote:
> I did my own paint and used a single stage Imron against the advice of a
> few local, non aircraft paint shops. I think I made the right decision.
>
> For the DIY painter, single stage is less work. But fixing mistakes can
> be harder. The paint pros explained that you can just sand out 2 stage
> mistakes and cover everything with clear coat for the A1 final finish.
> I see how 2 stage is required for a show winning finish but the single
> stage stuff is really nice. Get a nice flake color for your '10 in
> single stage and I think you'll be very happy. If your shop recommends
> it, then I know you'll be happy if they are any good at all.
>
> My advice for the DIY painter is to find a local paint distributor you
> want to work with and shoot one of the brands and lines that he
> carries. I started with the idea of using aviation lines from Dupont or
> PPG, but I ended up with a non-aviation line of Imron single stage
> because the distributor was closer to me than the PPG shop. And only a
> few places deal in the aviation lines. That turned out to be an inspired
> decision. I made almost daily trips there during my paint process -
> prices were good and while the advice was limited it was valuable for
> this first time painter.
>
> My guess is that that advice can be applied to paint selection by a
> paint shop - use what they like to use. I think skills are surprisingly
> product specific. Paints/coatings is very high tech stuff. Experience
> and manufacturers technical support are invaluable.
>
> Re regulations and their impact on paint; seems like almost everyone I
> met at the local paint depot, who had been shooting polyurethanes over
> the last decade was impaired. The guy who ran the place admitted that
> he was impaired, not that it wasn't apparent. His paint booth had sat
> idle for many years as a result. Many of his customers were impaired -
> it only took a short conversation to experience the impairment. Very
> scary indeed.
>
> The modern polyurethane paints are fantastic - single or 2 stage - but
> toxic as hell. Fresh air breather mandatory. My objective for each
> mix, shoot and cure was to never even catch a whiff of it. I mostly
> succeeded. I had befriended a neighbor who ran a local paint shop
> specializing in trucks, RVs and other big things. They were painting
> the hull of a big sailing ship which was too big for even their oversize
> booths. They shot it outside and I came by to watch along with a few
> others. I quickly ran out of there when I realized I was getting more
> exposure to Imron single stage standing 100 feet away than I was going
> to get in my own shop. I'm scared of the stuff. It's very bad.
>
> Aviation or non-aviation paints? For our purposes, I don't think it
> matters. I have no intention of dousing the plane in Skydrol. Rain is
> like sandpaper at 400knots but even in a dive, I just can't flog the
> horses that hard. 100knot rain erodes the old lacquers but good quality
> poly seems impervious to 200knot rain. I think the sweet spot is a top
> of the line Dupont Imron or PPG non-aviation paint. The lower priced
> automotive lines are less durable but the industrial grade top of the
> line stuff is "EAB aviation certified" in my unqualified opinion and
> just a little cheaper than the aviation lines - and certainly more
> available for the DIY painter.
>
> Bill "I didn't plan to paint but it turned out to be one of the most
> enjoyable challenges of the build" Watson
>
>
> On 8/26/2013 11:43 AM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > We are getting ready to have the airplane painted at Watertown in Wisconsin.
Any strong opinions / reasons for a single stage top coat versus a base coat
/ clear coat system? In both cases we will use aviation finishes.
> >
> > Jason
> >
> > --------
> > Jason Kreidler
> > 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> > Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> > N44YH - Flying - #40617
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407507#407507
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407542#407542
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
On 8/26/2013 6:48 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Thanks Bill, I wish I had a place to spray. I think after doing the entire build
to get to the end and say I am not capable of painting is a bit deflating,
after all the best thing about the process is the education and experience.
Thanks for the feedback. - Jason
If you have a place to build then I think you have a place to paint.
This is what works for me. YMMV.
I made a 'tent' from 1/2" EMT and sheet plastic. My first booth was 9'
X 9' X 20'. I use PVC fittings to attach the EMT together. Cut schedule
80 'rings and cut the side so it makes a 'c' tube and slip them in the
PVC fittings to hold the EMT. I used the large 'butterfly clips' to
hold the plastic to the EMT. The 9' was because I could only get 10'
wide plastic at the time. There is 20' wide available now. A large
squirrel cage fan exhausted outside and fiberfill on the other end was
my filter. I paid good money for a paint mask because (at the time) the
fresh air hose was too cumbersome. Hang lots of flourescent fixtures so
you get plenty of light. I get good results (remember I'm not a
professional painter) with a HF HVLP gun.
I use a leaf blower to clean the dust out and wet down the floor before
I move the parts in and spray.
I also add some extra reducer to thin the paint, spray a light cross
coat, wait 1/2 hour and spray another light cross coat. Repeat until I
get good coverage and then quit. I wait 2 hours and then pull off any
masking paper/tape. I only use blue and green 3M tape.
For me, there is one really hard part. When you get finished with your
'wet coat(s)' and still have paint in the pot ..... throw it out and
clean up the gun. It's just so hard for me to pitch all those $$$ in my
paint recovery can. My paint recovery can is a coffee can that all the
excess paint, reducer, etc. ends up in. It goes to the hazardous waste
collector along with the empty paint cans.
Good, thorough, prep will make a world of difference in the final
paint. Poor prep and a professional painter will still get you a poor
paint job. IMHO!!!
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Longer engine cables - throttle cable and mixture cable |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Stock panel, engine, MT gov, vernier controls. I used the RV-7 throttle and ordered
prop and mixture 1" longer from ACS. Throttle was 1" longer than needed but
works okay.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407555#407555
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Settling Measurement |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I built my cowl with prop spinner 1/8" higher. After i installed the .090" ss pins
in the rear top hinge in place of alum .125" per instructions cowl dropped
a little and rear gap enlarged. After 120 hours/20 mo my spinner is still about
1/8" higher than cowling. I think the engine settled less than 1/16" just like
my cowl. I would recommend perfect alignment and not worry about it.
I left 1/8" clearance between backplate and cowl. It works but entirely too tight.
I would recommend 1/4-3/8".
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407556#407556
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Settling Measurement |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Mine settled around 1/8, may be just a bit more. I left 1/4 gap and glad I did.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407567#407567
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Orth" <mosurf(at)xplornet.com> |
Mr. Kreidler,
If your name is "Many Greenies" I apologize for insulting you.
If your name is NOT "Many Greenies", I stand by my original post.
Never forget:
50% of Greenies are, by definition, below average.
Michael
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: jkreidler
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 3:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Paint
I am not sure I would ever call anyone on this forum under-educated, much
less throw that response at a single individual. Not what I come to this
forum for and I think I can safely say I speak for more than myself. I
appreciate the information, not the insults.
michaelrorth wrote:
> Hear! Hear!
> Many Greenies are extremely under-educated.
> Thanks for the truth.
>
> One amplification, though.
> Not only has the lack of DDT resulted in the deaths of millions in the
> past,
> the deaths continue today.
> This is why the mosquito is often referred to as "the deadliest animal on
> earth".
> Michael
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> --
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407541#407541
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
Jason,
Having been in the car wash/auto detailing business for almost 30 years I can tell
you I am very happy with the imron Watertown put on my plane. The stuff seems
to be very tough. 95% of auto vehicles we detail have clear coat and it
is very soft in my opinion. It is easy to polish out light scratches and blemishes,
but clear coat also is very prone to them whenever you touch it. Clear
coat in my opinion is like the plastic lens over your speedometer.
I have about 250 hours on my plane now and detail it often with a non-polish, spray
on liquid detailing wax. Takes all the bugs off easily, cleans the plane
and I have yet to see any wash rash in the paint. Normal automotive clear coat
on the other hand would require a polish type wax to keep it shiny.
Dave Leikam
On Aug 26, 2013, at 5:48 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Thanks Bill, I wish I had a place to spray. I think after doing the entire build
to get to the end and say I am not capable of painting is a bit deflating,
after all the best thing about the process is the education and experience.
Thanks for the feedback. - Jason
>
>
> Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote:
>> I did my own paint and used a single stage Imron against the advice of a
>> few local, non aircraft paint shops. I think I made the right decision.
>>
>> For the DIY painter, single stage is less work. But fixing mistakes can
>> be harder. The paint pros explained that you can just sand out 2 stage
>> mistakes and cover everything with clear coat for the A1 final finish.
>> I see how 2 stage is required for a show winning finish but the single
>> stage stuff is really nice. Get a nice flake color for your '10 in
>> single stage and I think you'll be very happy. If your shop recommends
>> it, then I know you'll be happy if they are any good at all.
>>
>> My advice for the DIY painter is to find a local paint distributor you
>> want to work with and shoot one of the brands and lines that he
>> carries. I started with the idea of using aviation lines from Dupont or
>> PPG, but I ended up with a non-aviation line of Imron single stage
>> because the distributor was closer to me than the PPG shop. And only a
>> few places deal in the aviation lines. That turned out to be an inspired
>> decision. I made almost daily trips there during my paint process -
>> prices were good and while the advice was limited it was valuable for
>> this first time painter.
>>
>> My guess is that that advice can be applied to paint selection by a
>> paint shop - use what they like to use. I think skills are surprisingly
>> product specific. Paints/coatings is very high tech stuff. Experience
>> and manufacturers technical support are invaluable.
>>
>> Re regulations and their impact on paint; seems like almost everyone I
>> met at the local paint depot, who had been shooting polyurethanes over
>> the last decade was impaired. The guy who ran the place admitted that
>> he was impaired, not that it wasn't apparent. His paint booth had sat
>> idle for many years as a result. Many of his customers were impaired -
>> it only took a short conversation to experience the impairment. Very
>> scary indeed.
>>
>> The modern polyurethane paints are fantastic - single or 2 stage - but
>> toxic as hell. Fresh air breather mandatory. My objective for each
>> mix, shoot and cure was to never even catch a whiff of it. I mostly
>> succeeded. I had befriended a neighbor who ran a local paint shop
>> specializing in trucks, RVs and other big things. They were painting
>> the hull of a big sailing ship which was too big for even their oversize
>> booths. They shot it outside and I came by to watch along with a few
>> others. I quickly ran out of there when I realized I was getting more
>> exposure to Imron single stage standing 100 feet away than I was going
>> to get in my own shop. I'm scared of the stuff. It's very bad.
>>
>> Aviation or non-aviation paints? For our purposes, I don't think it
>> matters. I have no intention of dousing the plane in Skydrol. Rain is
>> like sandpaper at 400knots but even in a dive, I just can't flog the
>> horses that hard. 100knot rain erodes the old lacquers but good quality
>> poly seems impervious to 200knot rain. I think the sweet spot is a top
>> of the line Dupont Imron or PPG non-aviation paint. The lower priced
>> automotive lines are less durable but the industrial grade top of the
>> line stuff is "EAB aviation certified" in my unqualified opinion and
>> just a little cheaper than the aviation lines - and certainly more
>> available for the DIY painter.
>>
>> Bill "I didn't plan to paint but it turned out to be one of the most
>> enjoyable challenges of the build" Watson
>>
>>
>> On 8/26/2013 11:43 AM, jkreidler wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> We are getting ready to have the airplane painted at Watertown in Wisconsin.
Any strong opinions / reasons for a single stage top coat versus a base coat
/ clear coat system? In both cases we will use aviation finishes.
>>>
>>> Jason
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Jason Kreidler
>>> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
>>> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
>>> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407507#407507
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407542#407542
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me here in
Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at least for
them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then onto Washington
DC for a couple of days.
I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has been some
changes in the rules since then.
If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and would share
some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson corridor?
What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get them?
As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS) but it
falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is off limits
to private aircraft operations?
--------
Ivan Kristensen.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (430hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
ivankris wrote:
>
>
> I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has been
some changes in the rules since then.
Understatement of all time!
I suggest you start by googling "Washington DC special flight rules area". You
must take an on-line course if you wish to fly close to DC, I think it is on the
TSA web site. That will tell you what you need to do to get to College Park.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407593#407593
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | Timothy Meyer <tgmeyerster(at)gmail.com> |
Don't know about the Hudson area. But you can take an online course to go ov
er the Special VFR airspace surrounding the DC area here.
https://www.faasafety.gov/gslac/ALC/course_content.aspx?cID=55&preview=t
rue
Just need to plan ahead and communicate with ATC prior to entering.
Tim
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 27, 2013, at 3:06 PM, "ivankris" wrote:
>
> Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me he
re in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at l
east for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then o
nto Washington DC for a couple of days.
>
> I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has be
en some changes in the rules since then.
>
> If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and wo
uld share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
>
> What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson c
orridor?
>
> What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get t
hem?
>
> As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS) b
ut it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is off l
imits to private aircraft operations?
>
> --------
> Ivan Kristensen.
>
> www.ivankristensen.com
> Builder # 40838
> Flying (430hrs.)
> C-GMDV
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | John Zazulka <jpiper623(at)gmail.com> |
Ivan, as far as the lights are concerned if so equipped .
On Tuesday, August 27, 2013, ivankris wrote:
> >
>
> Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me
> here in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time"
> (at least for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and
> then onto Washington DC for a couple of days.
>
> I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has
> been some changes in the rules since then.
>
> If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and
> would share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
>
> What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson
> corridor?
>
> What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get
> them?
>
> As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS)
> but it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is
> off limits to private aircraft operations?
>
> --------
> Ivan Kristensen.
>
> www.ivankristensen.com
> Builder # 40838
> Flying (430hrs.)
> C-GMDV
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | Richard McBride <rick.mcbride(at)me.com> |
Living and flying in the DC area I wish it were quite that easy for airports
inside the Flight Restricted Zone (FRZ). The FRZ is the inside circular ar
ea centered on DCA. Flying into the three GA airports inside the FRZ requir
es a background clearance prior to your flight. If memory serves, and I may
be incorrect, you have to apply for that clearance in person. I had a one t
ime clearance into Andrews AFB to display my RV-8 at their annual open house
. I'll never do that again. If you want to get in close to DC I would sugg
est Gaithersburg as a better alternative. It's inside the SFRA but not the
FRZ. It's relatively close to the metro or an easy drive to DC. You still n
eed an SFRA flight plan etc but otherwise, as Tim said, it just takes a litt
le planning...and the online course certificate. Leesburg is another good c
hoice but will require a rental car or a very expensive cab ride to get into
DC.
Rick McBride
On Aug 27, 2013, at 4:35 PM, Timothy Meyer wrote:
> Don't know about the Hudson area. But you can take an online course to go o
ver the Special VFR airspace surrounding the DC area here.
>
> https://www.faasafety.gov/gslac/ALC/course_content.aspx?cID=55&preview=
true
>
> Just need to plan ahead and communicate with ATC prior to entering.
>
> Tim
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2013, at 3:06 PM, "ivankris" wrote:
>
>>
>> Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me h
ere in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at l
east for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then o
nto Washington DC for a couple of days.
>>
>> I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has b
een some changes in the rules since then.
>>
>> If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and w
ould share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
>>
>> What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson
corridor?
>>
>> What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get
them?
>>
>> As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS)
but it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is of
f limits to private aircraft operations?
>>
>> --------
>> Ivan Kristensen.
>>
>> www.ivankristensen.com
>> Builder # 40838
>> Flying (430hrs.)
>> C-GMDV
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
>>
>>
>>
>> http://ww======================
====; - MATRONICS WEBref="http://forums.matronics.com">ht
tp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
Take the on line course first, then go for it. I did it north to south about two
years ago and it was, at that time, a VFR at 1000-1300', enter at specific
points, announce position at specific points, and depart at specific point type
of flight, much like the pattern at an uncontrolled field. My mistake was that
I should have turned back instead of leaving, flown it in reverse then turned
and made one more pass. It is indeed a trip of a life time for many of us.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma AZ
---- Timothy Meyer wrote:
> Don't know about the Hudson area. But you can take an online course to go over
the Special VFR airspace surrounding the DC area here.
>
> https://www.faasafety.gov/gslac/ALC/course_content.aspx?cID=55&preview=true
>
> Just need to plan ahead and communicate with ATC prior to entering.
>
> Tim
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2013, at 3:06 PM, "ivankris" wrote:
>
> >
> > Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me here
in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at least
for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then onto Washington
DC for a couple of days.
> >
> > I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has been
some changes in the rules since then.
> >
> > If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and would
share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
> >
> > What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson corridor?
> >
> > What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get them?
> >
> > As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS) but
it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is off limits
to private aircraft operations?
> >
> > --------
> > Ivan Kristensen.
> >
> > www.ivankristensen.com
> > Builder # 40838
> > Flying (430hrs.)
> > C-GMDV
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ===================================
> ===================================
> ===================================
> ===================================
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
There is also a course for flying the Hudson, if I recall correctly it is required.
We fly into KTEB, even if it is more expensive. Well worth the effort!
- Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407603#407603
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
For flying the Hudson there is a lot if information on the web such as:
https://www.faasafety.gov/files/gslac/courses/content/79/775/kneeboard.pdf
Recommend flying north to south. If you have enough gas then skip the stop
in New York. If not, Westchester County (HPN) is one I have used. Fly from
there to the Tappan Zee bridge and turn south down the Hudson. You will
need the New York Terminal Area chart
http://www.mypilotstore.com/MyPilotStore/chart/FAA_VFR_Terminal_Area_Charts.
asp along with your other standard charts.
For the DC visit, there are options inside and outside the SFRA. As noted,
you are required to do the on line course even if you are just in the area.
For airports your selection should depend on what you want to do. If you
want close to DC, your options are limited. If you are ok with being
outside the area but access to a commuter train to take you down town, there
is Stafford Airport (KRMN) near Fredericksburg, VA. You can catch the VRE
commuter train at a few locations in the area http://www.vre.org/ Note -
VRE runs north only in the morning and south only in the afternoon,
Monday-Friday only and no holidays. I believe you can also stay near
Frederick airport (KFDK) in Maryland and ride the MARC commuter train to
downtown DC. I believe it only runs Monday-Friday as well. If you want to
drive downtown more options are of course available.
I'm at Dogwood Airpark (VA42) a couple of miles from Stafford airport.
Please let me know if I can help.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Timothy Meyer
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC.
Don't know about the Hudson area. But you can take an online course to go
over the Special VFR airspace surrounding the DC area here.
https://www.faasafety.gov/gslac/ALC/course_content.aspx?cID=55
&preview=true
Just need to plan ahead and communicate with ATC prior to entering.
Tim
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 27, 2013, at 3:06 PM, "ivankris" wrote:
Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me here
in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at
least for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then
onto Washington DC for a couple of days.
I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has been
some changes in the rules since then.
If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and
would share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson
corridor?
What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get
them?
As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS)
but it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is off
limits to private aircraft operations?
--------
Ivan Kristensen.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (430hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
http://ww==========================;
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> - MATRONICS
WEBref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.m
atronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
If you are going to that area, I'd suggest Caldwell over Teterboro. You
will still get a landing fee bill in the mail($10), but the gas is much
less, and you won't be in the middle of a bunch of kerosene burners.
Just as close to the City.
On 8/27/2013 2:45 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> There is also a course for flying the Hudson, if I recall correctly it is required.
We fly into KTEB, even if it is more expensive. Well worth the effort!
- Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407603#407603
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
For DC: I flew into/out of College Park many years ago - it was fun -
cleared into class B and flew up the Anacostia river right by the Capitol
and into College Park. Then catch the metro and go downtown for the day; to
the Air and Space museum, and then fly back to North Carolina all in one
day. But check out this link for the procedure you would have to follow to
do it today. Its a fun read. Sad its come to this.
<http://www.collegeparkairport.org/vetting.html>
Have fun, I would recommend Gaithersburg too, instead of the above
procedure.
For NY: Watch this video it might be helpful and its well done and they are
using the skyline route.
-Chris Lucas
N919AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ivankris
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 4:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC.
Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me here
in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at
least for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then
onto Washington DC for a couple of days.
I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has been
some changes in the rules since then.
If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and
would share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson
corridor?
What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get
them?
As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS)
but it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is off
limits to private aircraft operations?
--------
Ivan Kristensen.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (430hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Rv-14 and BBQ at the Watsonville Fly-In this weekend. |
Van's Aircraft is bringing the RV-14 to the Watsonville Airshow this
Labor Day Weekend, Aug. 31- Sept. 1. They will have the aircraft on
display Saturday all day and Sunday morning. A representative from Vans
will be around to answer questions.
Saturday evening, from 5:30 -- 7pm, Aircrafters will be hosting a BBQ
with hamburgers, hot dogs and veggie burgers for all the Pilots and
Passengers of Experimental Aircraft that have flown in for the show. We
will have the RV-14 at the hanger at that time as well. Also come to see
some new RV-10 and the RV-8 aircraft.
RSVP to bbq(at)aircraftersllc.com or by
phone at 831-722-9141
Thanks,
Tim
--
Tim Farrell -
Aircrafters -
Owner/Manager -
(831) 722-9141 -
www.aircraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | John Zazulka <jpiper623(at)gmail.com> |
Ivan I don't know if you received my last post but a reminder to make sure
that the NY Yankees are not playing when you fly the Hudson corridor. There
will be a TFR for the game and flight service doesn't warn you about it.
The TFR extends in the corridor and you will get busted
On Tuesday, August 27, 2013, Chris wrote:
> >
>
> For DC: I flew into/out of College Park many years ago - it was fun -
> cleared into class B and flew up the Anacostia river right by the Capitol
> and into College Park. Then catch the metro and go downtown for the day; to
> the Air and Space museum, and then fly back to North Carolina all in one
> day. But check out this link for the procedure you would have to follow to
> do it today. Its a fun read. Sad its come to this.
>
> <http://www.collegeparkairport.org/vetting.html>
>
> Have fun, I would recommend Gaithersburg too, instead of the above
> procedure.
>
> For NY: Watch this video it might be helpful and its well done and they are
> using the skyline route.
>
>
> -Chris Lucas
> N919AR
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <javascript:;>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf Of
> ivankris
> Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 4:07 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC.
>
> >
>
> Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me
> here
> in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at
> least for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then
> onto Washington DC for a couple of days.
>
> I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has
> been
> some changes in the rules since then.
>
> If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and
> would share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
>
> What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson
> corridor?
>
> What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get
> them?
>
> As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS)
> but it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is
> off
> limits to private aircraft operations?
>
> --------
> Ivan Kristensen.
>
> www.ivankristensen.com
> Builder # 40838
> Flying (430hrs.)
> C-GMDV
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Good Grief!
I'm planning a trip from the Atlanta Area to New Jersey in a couple of weeks. I
had planned to fly around DC, but that 60 mile arc would force me into the mountains!
The coastal way would have me dodging restricted areas and a lot of water.
There are a few Victor Airways around it but they all penetrate that 60 mile arc.
I have no interest in seeing DC, I used to live there when it was fun to fly.
What do the locals recommend?
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407629#407629
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
I've done the NYC corridor a number of times - years ago and recently.
Amazingly not much has changed except that the options are better
documented now. Others have provided the links.
You basically want to decide whether you want to fly underneath in the
VFR corridor or in the Class B a couple of hundred feet higher. Either
is a visual flight of a lifetime. There can be a lot of traffic which
makes the Class B route preferable for me but either way works well.
Pilots tend to obey the rules of the road relative to altitudes and
sides of the river and position announcements in the VFR section.
Flying south to north allows you to practically over fly the WTC
memorial site. The fact that you can do that is amazing in itself. It
also puts your passengers on the scenic side of the plane.
You can go low and take a circle around the Statue of Liberty - that's a
notch on the stick for you and the passengers.
It's a good time to stock up on some lightweight floatation devices for
the plane. I felt I owed it to my passengers to have them onboard and
available even if I didn't fully brief them before the flight.
I go in and out of KHPN and highly recommend Panorama Flight Service if
you stop. If it fits your purposes, a low flight up the Hudson with a
landing at KHPN, followed by a normal altitude IFR/VFR departure south
generally results in vectors directly over JFK and an excellent high
altitude view of NYC.
I've done DC before and after too. Used to be accessible and fun. Now,
not so much. Not sure if there is anything resembling a scenic flight.
Access to the several layers of airports you can fly in and out of is
strictly managed and there is zero tolerance for deviations. I used to
go into Potomac and/or Hyde (forget which) but you need to go thru a
security procedure well in advance now. Recently, I've been flying in
and out of KANP - nothing to recommend or not recommend there. A flight
into W29 is Cheasapeake Bay scenic and there are crab places nearby. I
used to go into Kentmorr 3W3 for crabs at the marina but haven't taken
the '10 in the grass there yet. Don't know much else. You'll always
have NYC....
Enjoy!
On 8/27/2013 4:06 PM, ivankris wrote:
>
> Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me here
in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at least
for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then onto Washington
DC for a couple of days.
>
> I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has been
some changes in the rules since then.
>
> If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and would
share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
>
> What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson corridor?
>
> What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get them?
>
> As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS) but
it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is off limits
to private aircraft operations?
>
> --------
> Ivan Kristensen.
>
> www.ivankristensen.com
> Builder # 40838
> Flying (430hrs.)
> C-GMDV
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | John Zazulka <jpiper623(at)gmail.com> |
John depending on where in Atlanta your coming from V1 with keep you clear
of of all the trouble.
On Wednesday, August 28, 2013, johngoodman wrote:
> >
>
> Good Grief!
> I'm planning a trip from the Atlanta Area to New Jersey in a couple of
> weeks. I had planned to fly around DC, but that 60 mile arc would force me
> into the mountains! The coastal way would have me dodging restricted areas
> and a lot of water.
> There are a few Victor Airways around it but they all penetrate that 60
> mile arc. I have no interest in seeing DC, I used to live there when it was
> fun to fly. What do the locals recommend?
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407629#407629
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
You're right, V1 will do the trick. It'll add a few miles but I think a fuel stop
would be prudent in the Norfolk area. Thanks,
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407639#407639
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | John Zazulka <jpiper623(at)gmail.com> |
John if your making a fuel stop by Norfolk KSFQ ($ 5.20) or KCPK ($ 5.79)
both right off V1. I have flown Into CPK nice airport friendly people.
Haven't flown into SFQ but for .50 a gallon it might be worth the stop.
Double check the fuel prices, I got it off of foreflight. What part of New
Jersey are you flying into? Have fun on the trip if there is anything else
I can help you with don't hesitate to ask. John Z
On Wednesday, August 28, 2013, johngoodman wrote:
> >
>
> You're right, V1 will do the trick. It'll add a few miles but I think a
> fuel stop would be prudent in the Norfolk area. Thanks,
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407639#407639
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
The SFRA (where you need a clearance and specific squawk code) is 30nmi
radius from DCA. Between 30nmi and 60nmi is a speed restriction area only
(you will not be going fast enough unless you burning Jet A). No clearance
is needed in that area. Just stay out of the SFRA, mind the restricted
areas and fly. I do recommend flight following if VFR, especially if you
are unfamiliar with the area.
Don't forget to take the on line FAA SFRA course (required if you are within
60nmi of DCA - even if you don't want to enter the SFRA):
https://www.faasafety.gov/gslac/ALC/course_content.aspx?cID=55&preview=true
Carl
RV-10, 120 hours
RV-8A, sold
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 10:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC.
-->
Good Grief!
I'm planning a trip from the Atlanta Area to New Jersey in a couple of
weeks. I had planned to fly around DC, but that 60 mile arc would force me
into the mountains! The coastal way would have me dodging restricted areas
and a lot of water.
There are a few Victor Airways around it but they all penetrate that 60 mile
arc. I have no interest in seeing DC, I used to live there when it was fun
to fly. What do the locals recommend?
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407629#407629
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Do the online course. It's not difficult. Doesn't take too long. Then you
are all set. I've flown around the east and west side depending on where I'm
going and have had no issues. However, I have been asked by briefers and controllers
if I was familiar with the procedures. Also be familiar with and have
current charting for all the restricted areas. I have been asked to confirm
my intentions with respect to how I was avoiding various areas. So situational
awareness was critical.
Overall my experience with Potomac approach has been excellent and easier to work
with than the class B monster to the northeast. The Philly/ NY area is really
busy and can be overwhelming at times.
Bob Newman
N541RV
On Aug 28, 2013, at 10:42 AM, "johngoodman" wrote:
>
> Good Grief!
> I'm planning a trip from the Atlanta Area to New Jersey in a couple of weeks.
I had planned to fly around DC, but that 60 mile arc would force me into the
mountains! The coastal way would have me dodging restricted areas and a lot of
water.
> There are a few Victor Airways around it but they all penetrate that 60 mile
arc. I have no interest in seeing DC, I used to live there when it was fun to
fly. What do the locals recommend?
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407629#407629
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plane Power Alternator Fail |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
I have had my alternator fail after 570 hours. Just stopped producing any
power. Its the Plane Power alternator supplied with Vans FWF kit. Couple
of questions:
(1) How ore others doing with the Plane Power alternators (MTBF?)
(2) Is there a local automotive alternative that is a bolt in replacement?
(Autozone, Napa, Online source?)
(3) Any ideas as to what the typical failure mechanism is?
Just curious
Jim Combs
N312F - 570 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Seat Adjuster Extensions |
A while back I said we'd make a run of seat adjuster extension posts. We
have stock now and they're available to purchase from our web site:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.html?id=shop?id=products
I said $30/set, and we'll hold that price for a month or so but they'll
probably go up, so get'em cheap!
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alternator Fail |
I had one turn on the low voltage light after a few hundred hours, even
though the output voltage was correct.
When it came back it had a different style housing on the back. That was a
few years ago and it still seems to be the current style.
What did PP say? I'd be kind of surprised if they charged to fix it.
We've installed many with just that one issue.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
> I have had my alternator fail after 570 hours. Just stopped producing any
> power. Its the Plane Power alternator supplied with Vans FWF kit. Couple
> of questions:
>
> (1) How ore others doing with the Plane Power alternators (MTBF?)
>
> (2) Is there a local automotive alternative that is a bolt in replacement?
> (Autozone, Napa, Online source?)
>
> (3) Any ideas as to what the typical failure mechanism is?
>
> Just curious
>
> Jim Combs
> N312F - 570 Hours
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I=99m ordering up FWF parts and I talked to Vans about their
hoses. They are now shipping all the FWF hoses as the integral
fire-sleeve/Teflon type, not just the fuel lines as in the past. Has
anyone received the the new hoses from Vans than can comment on the
quality of the hoses? I planned on having them made, but if Vans can
supply them, all the better.
Thanks
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alternator Fail |
Give them a call... they're all good guys and great friends.- to my knowl
edge they are always very fair.... Don McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________
___________________=0A From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com
>=0ATo: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Wednes
day, August 28, 2013 4:08 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Plane Power Alternat
or Fail=0A =0A=0A=0AI had one turn on the low voltage light after a few hun
dred hours, even though the output voltage was correct.=0A=0AWhen it came b
ack it had a different style housing on the back. -That was a few years a
go and it still seems to be the current style.=0A=0AWhat did PP say? -I'd
be kind of surprised if they charged to fix it. -We've installed many wi
th just that one issue.=0A=0A=0ADave Saylor=0A831-750-0284 CL=0A=0A=0AOn We
d, Aug 28, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Jim Combs wrote:=0A=0AI
have had my alternator fail after 570 hours.- Just stopped producing any
power.-- Its the Plane Power alternator supplied with Vans FWF kit.-
Couple of questions:=0A>=0A>=0A(1) How ore others doing with the Plane Powe
r alternators (MTBF?) =0A>=0A>(2) Is there a local automotive alternative t
hat is a bolt in replacement? (Autozone, Napa, Online source?)=0A>=0A>(3) A
ny ideas as to what the typical failure mechanism is?=0A>=0A>Just curious
=0A>=0A>Jim Combs=0A>N312F - 570 Hours=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>get="_blank">ht
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_b
====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve T <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com> |
Chris and all...
We would be happy to help you with your hoses. We have hundreds of RVs usi
ng our hoses. They are conductive Teflon which means that they have no max s
ervice life. In addition we make them to your specs. We have found that ev
eryone does their routings slightly different. While the vans hoses will fi
t, they may not fit the way you want.
We have more information at
www.aircraftspecialty.com
Or
www.kitplanehoses.com
Have a great day
Steve
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 28, 2013, at 16:37, "Chris Hukill" wrote:
> I=99m ordering up FWF parts and I talked to Vans about their hoses. T
hey are now shipping all the FWF hoses as the integral fire-sleeve/Teflon t
ype, not just the fuel lines as in the past. Has anyone received the the new
hoses from Vans than can comment on the quality of the hoses? I planned on h
aving them made, but if Vans can supply them, all the better.
> Thanks
> Chris Hukill
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
I think I have finally come to a step in the build where, no mater how hard
I try, I cannot complete.
Installing the horizontal stabilizer end cap fairings has got me completely
frustrated. I have been working on one for probably 40 hours now and don't
see the end in sight. I first had issues with the fiberglass cloth adhering
to the outside of the fairing. Since its a knife like edge, it would
de-bond every time I tried to remove the temporary foam rib. I then decided
to just leave the foam rib and glass it in place. That seemed to do the
trick and everything looked great until I clecoed it in place. I have
interference in the middle of the outside layer of cloth. I could just sand
an 1/8" dimple in the middle, but that doesn't seem right.
This is the first step where I am absolutely stumped as how to proceed.
Does anyone out there make aftermarket, complete hs-910? If not, what is
the trick I am missing here.
Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alternator Fail |
Don knows all to well that Plane Power is a good group of folks. My
starter failed within hours of the first flight. They shipped me a new
starter the same day, well actually they personally delivered it to a
RV-10 pilot who delivered it to me. No charge (I did need to leave a
deposit, which was never posted, pending the replacement be returned)
Good honest folks. To boot they even had the RV-10 pilot help me replace
the starter and take the old one back.
I=99m in California, they are next to Don in Texas..
If anyone is wondering how much the whole process cost me?
and now.. the rest of the story...
Having a great friend that was coming out the next day to visit and
lives next to the owners- priceless! not to mention, but I will anyway,
the timing for this failure was perfect.. and I like re-telling this
story anyway.
In the end, even before I mentioned names, Plane Power was first rate in
taking care of my concern and issue. Their technician spent well over 1
hour with me troubleshooting the issue.
Call them, if you haven't already!
Pascal
From: Don McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Plane Power Alternator Fail
Give them a call... they're all good guys and great friends. to my
knowledge they are always very fair.... Don McDonald
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Plane Power Alternator Fail
I had one turn on the low voltage light after a few hundred hours, even
though the output voltage was correct.
When it came back it had a different style housing on the back. That
was a few years ago and it still seems to be the current style.
What did PP say? I'd be kind of surprised if they charged to fix it.
We've installed many with just that one issue.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
I have had my alternator fail after 570 hours. Just stopped producing
any power. Its the Plane Power alternator supplied with Vans FWF kit.
Couple of questions:
(1) How ore others doing with the Plane Power alternators (MTBF?)
(2) Is there a local automotive alternative that is a bolt in
replacement? (Autozone, Napa, Online source?)
(3) Any ideas as to what the typical failure mechanism is?
Just curious
Jim Combs
N312F - 570 Hours
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Shannon, feel free to give me a call. I think I can talk you through it.
A couple little tricks make the fiberglass a lot easier.
Dave Saylor
=8BAirCrafters
831-750-0284 CL
On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:45 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
> I think I have finally come to a step in the build where, no mater how
> hard I try, I cannot complete.
>
> Installing the horizontal stabilizer end cap fairings has got me
> completely frustrated. I have been working on one for probably 40 hours n
ow
> and don't see the end in sight. I first had issues with the fiberglass
> cloth adhering to the outside of the fairing. Since its a knife like edge
,
> it would de-bond every time I tried to remove the temporary foam rib. I
> then decided to just leave the foam rib and glass it in place. That seeme
d
> to do the trick and everything looked great until I clecoed it in place.
I
> have interference in the middle of the outside layer of cloth. I could ju
st
> sand an 1/8" dimple in the middle, but that doesn't seem right.
>
> This is the first step where I am absolutely stumped as how to proceed.
>
> Does anyone out there make aftermarket, complete hs-910? If not, what is
> the trick I am missing here.
>
> Shannon
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I just sent him an email ( from his posting on VAF) explaining the tips you s
hared with me four or five years ago. It just seems like yesterday when I t
ook the class at your shop. Time sure flies when you're having fun.
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 28, 2013, at 6:55 PM, Dave Saylor
wrote:
> Shannon, feel free to give me a call. I think I can talk you through it.
A couple little tricks make the fiberglass a lot easier.
>
> Dave Saylor
> =8BAirCrafters
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:45 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote
:
>> I think I have finally come to a step in the build where, no mater how ha
rd I try, I cannot complete.
>>
>> Installing the horizontal stabilizer end cap fairings has got me complete
ly frustrated. I have been working on one for probably 40 hours now and don'
t see the end in sight. I first had issues with the fiberglass cloth adherin
g to the outside of the fairing. Since its a knife like edge, it would de-bo
nd every time I tried to remove the temporary foam rib. I then decided to ju
st leave the foam rib and glass it in place. That seemed to do the trick and
everything looked great until I clecoed it in place. I have interference in
the middle of the outside layer of cloth. I could just sand an 1/8" dimple i
n the middle, but that doesn't seem right.
>>
>> This is the first step where I am absolutely stumped as how to proceed.
>>
>> Does anyone out there make aftermarket, complete hs-910? If not, what is t
he trick I am missing here.
>>
>> Shannon
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
I just got off of the phone with Dave and have a much better idea on how to
proceed. It is amazing how something so small can derail a project.
Thanks for the help!
On Aug 28, 2013 6:27 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
> I just sent him an email ( from his posting on VAF) explaining the tips
> you shared with me four or five years ago. It just seems like yesterday
> when I took the class at your shop. Time sure flies when you're having
> fun.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 28, 2013, at 6:55 PM, Dave Saylor <
> dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Shannon, feel free to give me a call. I think I can talk you through it.
> A couple little tricks make the fiberglass a lot easier.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:45 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
>> I think I have finally come to a step in the build where, no mater how
>> hard I try, I cannot complete.
>>
>> Installing the horizontal stabilizer end cap fairings has got me
>> completely frustrated. I have been working on one for probably 40 hours now
>> and don't see the end in sight. I first had issues with the fiberglass
>> cloth adhering to the outside of the fairing. Since its a knife like edge,
>> it would de-bond every time I tried to remove the temporary foam rib. I
>> then decided to just leave the foam rib and glass it in place. That seemed
>> to do the trick and everything looked great until I clecoed it in place. I
>> have interference in the middle of the outside layer of cloth. I could just
>> sand an 1/8" dimple in the middle, but that doesn't seem right.
>>
>> This is the first step where I am absolutely stumped as how to proceed.
>>
>> Does anyone out there make aftermarket, complete hs-910? If not, what is
>> the trick I am missing here.
>>
>> Shannon
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> ==================================
> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================cs.com
> ===================================matronics.com/contribution
> ==================================
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
forgot link.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris [mailto:toaster73(at)embarqmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 8:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC.
For DC: I flew into/out of College Park many years ago - it was fun -
cleared into class B and flew up the Anacostia river right by the Capitol
and into College Park. Then catch the metro and go downtown for the day; to
the Air and Space museum, and then fly back to North Carolina all in one
day. But check out this link for the procedure you would have to follow to
do it today. Its a fun read. Sad its come to this.
<http://www.collegeparkairport.org/vetting.html>
Have fun, I would recommend Gaithersburg too, instead of the above
procedure.
For NY: Watch this video it might be helpful and its well done and they are
using the skyline route.
-Chris Lucas
N919AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ivankris
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 4:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC.
Next week I have a couple of old friends from Europe coming to visit me here
in Canada and I am planning to take them on a "Trip of a Life Time" (at
least for them) in my RV-10 down the Hudson River NY. VFR corridor and then
onto Washington DC for a couple of days.
I did this trip about 20 years ago in a Comanche so I am sure there has been
some changes in the rules since then.
If anyone out there has flown this this trip in the last year or so and
would share some of the Do's and Dont's with me I would sure appreciate it.
What airport in the NY area is a good one to launch from to do the Hudson
corridor?
What publications and charts do I need and where is the best place to get
them?
As far as airports in the DC area I am thinking about College Park (KCGS)
but it falls within the vail of a current TFR. Does that mean that it is off
limits to private aircraft operations?
--------
Ivan Kristensen.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (430hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407592#407592
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I went ahead and did the course. Not bad and it did clear up a number of questions.
The sad part is the "Maryland 3" - I used to fly VFR between them back in
the '60s....
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407729#407729
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
Hi Shannon,
I'm sure by now you have all the tips and tricks required. To give you
more trouble deciding, here's how I did it.
Lay up a fibreglass sheet using 2 or 3 layers of thin (circa 200gsm)
glass cloth on a flat surface, with release agent on one side and peel
ply on the other, weight it down and let it cure. Take the HS / rudder
fairing and cut out the sheet so it is about 1/2" oversize all round.
Tape the sheet to the fairing with the rough surface (peel ply removed)
on the inside of the fairing. Bond it using additional glass cloth and
glass tape around the edges.
The glass sheet obviously has to be flexible enough to adapt to the
curved rear edges of the fairing. After laying up the cured sheet to
the fairings, I clecoed the fairings to the HS with the elevator
installed and wedged a sheet of 1/8" to 3/16" thick foam between the
elevator horn and the sheet to hold it in place while the bond cured.
That way the gap was guaranteed and they even took a nice slightly
concave shape conforming to the elevator horns.
Afterwards trim and sand around the outside.
Have fun!
Gordon
41015 Switzerland
On Aug 29, 2013, at 12:45 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
> I think I have finally come to a step in the build where, no mater how
hard I try, I cannot complete.
>
> Installing the horizontal stabilizer end cap fairings has got me
completely frustrated. I have been working on one for probably 40 hours
now and don't see the end in sight. I first had issues with the
fiberglass cloth adhering to the outside of the fairing. Since its a
knife like edge, it would de-bond every time I tried to remove the
temporary foam rib. I then decided to just leave the foam rib and glass
it in place. That seemed to do the trick and everything looked great
until I clecoed it in place. I have interference in the middle of the
outside layer of cloth. I could just sand an 1/8" dimple in the middle,
but that doesn't seem right.
>
> This is the first step where I am absolutely stumped as how to
proceed.
>
> Does anyone out there make aftermarket, complete hs-910? If not, what
is the trick I am missing here.
>
> Shannon
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)u.washington.edu> |
So after decades of blissfully thinking I was doing the right thing for my
aircraft engines by feeding them Aeroshell 15W50, it now is being called
evil stuff by knowledgeable folks like Mike Busch. Is there general
consensus that Phillips 15W50 is better as a multiviscosity oil for our
IO-540's?
And if using that does it have to be supplemented by Camguard to add back
the Lycoming 'snake oil' additive to protect the parts that are only splash
lubricated?
Not trying to set off oilfield flame wars but have the feeling that somehow
I missed something...
-Dan Masys
N104LD 620 hrs TTSN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
15w-50 is for radial, get the XC 20w-50. I used it for well over 100 hours-
straight, than I used it adding camguard, now I use Aeroshell with camguard.
Ask yourself, where are you located (if 100 miles from ocean and in warmer
climates, like myself in So California, I could use the Aerosheel w100 year
round, I'll switch to phillips for the winter anyway, in case I go up to the
mountains 20 minutes away.
If you fly often, and/or not near ocean or corrosion prone areas, skip the
camguard. basically everything Mike comments on on his webinar.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Masys
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2013 10:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil choice
So after decades of blissfully thinking I was doing the right thing for my
aircraft engines by feeding them Aeroshell 15W50, it now is being called
evil stuff by knowledgeable folks like Mike Busch. Is there general
consensus that Phillips 15W50 is better as a multiviscosity oil for our
IO-540's?
And if using that does it have to be supplemented by Camguard to add back
the Lycoming 'snake oil' additive to protect the parts that are only splash
lubricated?
Not trying to set off oilfield flame wars but have the feeling that somehow
I missed something...
-Dan Masys
N104LD 620 hrs TTSN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
The problem with AS 15-50 is that it is 50% synthetic oil which does not
keep solids suspended.
It does contain the Lycoming addidtive.
You do NOT need the Lycoming additive. It is for the "76" series engines
like the O-320-H2AD that had very different cam and lifters than what your
IO-540 has. The Lycoming additive is a version of tricresyl Phospate, or
TCP, and is an extreme pressure lubricant. Later replaced by close cousin
TPP.
Phillips does not have that additive, and I don't think Camguard does
either. Camguard is primarily an anti-corrosive, which is helpful in
preventing pitting on the cam.
The Phillips/Camguard combo gives best anti-corrosion protection. The
Phillips is all mineral based, no synthetics.
On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 10:51 AM, Dan Masys wrote:
>
> So after decades of blissfully thinking I was doing the right thing for my
> aircraft engines by feeding them Aeroshell 15W50, it now is being called
> evil stuff by knowledgeable folks like Mike Busch. Is there general
> consensus that Phillips 15W50 is better as a multiviscosity oil for our
> IO-540's?
>
> And if using that does it have to be supplemented by Camguard to add back
> the Lycoming 'snake oil' additive to protect the parts that are only splash
> lubricated?
>
> Not trying to set off oilfield flame wars but have the feeling that somehow
> I missed something...
>
> -Dan Masys
> N104LD 620 hrs TTSN
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plane Power Alternator Fail |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Jim,
What did you find out caused the failure of your PP Alternator
Bill
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407810#407810
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Empemmage Kit for Sale |
| From: | "mj.swanson" <mj.swanson(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have an RV-10 Empennage Kit for sale (s/n 40492). The Vertical Stab and Rudder
are complete, the Horizontal stab is ready for finally assembly. Excellent craftsmanship
reviewed by A&P. I'm asking $2,900 OBO. I also have several sheet
metal tools (c-frame dimpler, rivet guns, etc.) that I am willing to sell as
well. Kit is located in Southern California. e-mail me at mj.swanson(at)sbcglobal.net
for pics and additional info.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407854#407854
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear leg fairing |
I have noticed some apparent heat damage around my nose gear strut fairing
right around the area where it exits the cowling to the first screw that
attaches it to the gear leg. Seems like the fiberglass has gotten a little
warm and changed shape with some of the weave showing through the paint.
Have others seen this or know what can be done to prevent it??
Thanks
Chris Lucas
N919AR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
I have a tray with back plate and 2 little screws that hold the back plate
to the tray. If anyone wants to buy it for $100, let me know with a personal
email.
-Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Posting some photos would be helpful to assist in answering your question. Are
you sure that it is heat, or could it be that the fairing is in a bind when it
is installed and it's trying to twist? I haven't noticed anything on mine indicating
heat was an issue. Do you have any reflective heat mat on the lower
cowling?
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407884#407884
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
Yep I have reflective mat on the cowl bottom - I should have attached a
picture, I'll try to get a photo tomorrow.
-Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 9:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
Posting some photos would be helpful to assist in answering your question.
Are you sure that it is heat, or could it be that the fairing is in a bind
when it is installed and it's trying to twist? I haven't noticed anything
on mine indicating heat was an issue. Do you have any reflective heat mat
on the lower cowling?
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407884#407884
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
Here are the pictures. I am wondering if hot air is coming in from the top
and kind of dead heading at the screw attach triangles on the leg - or the
whole leg has a lot of heat too.
-Chris
N919AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
Yep I have reflective mat on the cowl bottom - I should have attached a
picture, I'll try to get a photo tomorrow.
-Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 9:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
Posting some photos would be helpful to assist in answering your question.
Are you sure that it is heat, or could it be that the fairing is in a bind
when it is installed and it's trying to twist? I haven't noticed anything
on mine indicating heat was an issue. Do you have any reflective heat mat
on the lower cowling?
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407884#407884
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
It almost looks like the nose gear leg brackets are distorting the fairing. Almost
like the front of the fairing is resting on the gear leg to deeply. My 4
Attachment screws are much closer to the hinge edge of The fairing than yours.
I don't have any photos, but I will take a look this week and see if that's the
case.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407944#407944
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
Hey Chris,
It sure looks like heat concentrating at the screw -- checked for exhaust
leaks, heat muffler leaks? Have you also checked for fuel overflow (hot
start flooding, etc.)? There would probably be fuel discoloring if that
were the case.
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 7:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
Here are the pictures. I am wondering if hot air is coming in from the top
and kind of dead heading at the screw attach triangles on the leg - or the
whole leg has a lot of heat too.
-Chris
N919AR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
While there is typically a negative pressure gradient that sets up cowl
exhaust air to go down the nose gear fairing to the nose wheel pant, I
suspect this is not heat damage as much as the fastener working the fairing.
Looking at the photo, you have the same situation I had on my plane - the
fairing needs to have a backing on it so that you don't deform it when you
tighten the mounting screw.
As a general rule, anyplace you have thin fiberglass held to something like
a small steel plate with a fastener you must add reinforcement. On the nose
gear leg fairings I added 4-6 bids of glass reinforcement on the inside
where the fairing rubs on the gear leg bracket. This adds a lot of strength
to the area where the screw goes through as well as the needed spacer so the
mounting screw does not deform the fairing. The same practice goes for the
wheel pants, some areas like the outboard bolt hole get much thicker layers
of glass than others. On the front gear pant don't forget to add some glass
reinforcement on the inside about 6" up from the tire cutout. I had the
wheel pant split in this area, as have others. On the front shoulder belt
to cabin top mounting screws I added (8) bids of glass on inside, 6"x10" or
so in size centered on the screw hole. I did not consider the thickness of
the cabin top glass adequate after I got done countersinking for the
mounting screw.
Carl
RV-10 (125 hrs)
RV-8A (sold)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 7:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
Here are the pictures. I am wondering if hot air is coming in from the top
and kind of dead heading at the screw attach triangles on the leg - or the
whole leg has a lot of heat too.
-Chris
N919AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
Yep I have reflective mat on the cowl bottom - I should have attached a
picture, I'll try to get a photo tomorrow.
-Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 9:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
Posting some photos would be helpful to assist in answering your question.
Are you sure that it is heat, or could it be that the fairing is in a bind
when it is installed and it's trying to twist? I haven't noticed anything
on mine indicating heat was an issue. Do you have any reflective heat mat
on the lower cowling?
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407884#407884
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I had to build up on the inside of mine 1/8" at all four locations. Weekend job
for you coming up.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407964#407964
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Ditto on this. I use Phillips with Camguard except during the first
50-100 hours on a new engine, where I leave out the Camguard.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Aug 30, 2013, at 4:52 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> The problem with AS 15-50 is that it is 50% synthetic oil which does
not keep solids suspended.
> It does contain the Lycoming addidtive.
> You do NOT need the Lycoming additive. It is for the "76" series
engines like the O-320-H2AD that had very different cam and lifters than
what your IO-540 has. The Lycoming additive is a version of tricresyl
Phospate, or TCP, and is an extreme pressure lubricant. Later replaced
by close cousin TPP.
> Phillips does not have that additive, and I don't think Camguard does
either. Camguard is primarily an anti-corrosive, which is helpful in
preventing pitting on the cam.
> The Phillips/Camguard combo gives best anti-corrosion protection. The
Phillips is all mineral based, no synthetics.
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 10:51 AM, Dan Masys
wrote:
>
> So after decades of blissfully thinking I was doing the right thing
for my
> aircraft engines by feeding them Aeroshell 15W50, it now is being
called
> evil stuff by knowledgeable folks like Mike Busch. Is there general
> consensus that Phillips 15W50 is better as a multiviscosity oil for
our
> IO-540's?
>
> And if using that does it have to be supplemented by Camguard to add
back
> the Lycoming 'snake oil' additive to protect the parts that are only
splash
> lubricated?
>
> Not trying to set off oilfield flame wars but have the feeling that
somehow
> I missed something...
>
> -Dan Masys
> N104LD 620 hrs TTSN
>
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
Thanks to all on the replies. I guess my case is a bit isolated. I do
remember adding glass to the lower attach points but I don't remember if I
did to the uppers - it is drawn in a bit by the screw but the gopro camera
lens might exaggerate it a little. Easy enough to go ahead and pull it off
and add some glass as you say below, and check for any exhaust leaks. I did
not see any fuel residue around it.
Thanks
Chris
N919AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10flyer
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 12:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
I had to build up on the inside of mine 1/8" at all four locations. Weekend
job for you coming up.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407964#407964
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
Thanks to all for the help, ideas and suggestions you have given me here. I have
done the on-line courses for both the Washington Special Flight Rules Area (SFRA)
and the NY City SFRA. Now armed with a good knowledge of the rules and the
correct charts combined with the experience of having done it once before (15+
years ago) I feel quite confident that we can pull this off without any trouble.
The plan is to fly directly to Westchester County (KHPN) for customs and then launch
from there to do the Hudson River sight seeing tour. After the tour we will
stop in Monmouth Executive (KBLM) for lunch and file an IFR flight plan to
go into Gaithersburg (KGAI) where we will stay for a couple of nights and do
the Washington tourist thing.
Here is a link to SkyVectors.com showing my routing.
http://skyvector.com/?ll=40.921260992712455,-78.63061523802082&chart=301&zoom=7&plan=A.CY.CYKF:V.K6.BUF:V.K6.CFB:F.K6.GAYEL:F.K6.VALRE:A.K6.KHPN:V.K6.COL:A.K6.KBLM:A.K6.KGAI:V.K6.HGR:V.K6.TON:V.K6.JHW:A.CY.CYKF
--------
Ivan Kristensen.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (430hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407994#407994
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
I have a question about the louvers you are using, are those stock? It seems like
they are cut in the cowl more forward than most. Could it be that your installation
has more hot air being pulled out the forward portion of the cowl rather
than the aft opening? If that is the case then your fairing would see more
heat than others. Just a thought - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408001#408001
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
They appear stock and in stock location to me.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408002#408002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carroll L. Verhage" <cv93436(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Nose Cowling Heat Shields |
RV-10 Builders:
If you do not shield the lower engine cowling, it will warp and
turn brown from the heat produced by the exhaust system.
A permanent fix is to mount a sheet of .025 or .032 aluminum with
the same contour of the cowling over the area of the cowling where it
gets hot from the exhaust (about 6 in. forward of the exhaust pipes up
front and back to where the mufflers end). Place 3 or 4 #6 thick
washers between the heat shield and the Lexan at the top edge of the
aluminum and rivet it to the Lexan with countersunk rivents on the
outside. It will take 3 or 4 rivets on each side of the cowling. Shape
the aluminum sheet so it is parallel to the Lexan leaving a 1/4" space
between the Lexan and aluminum sheet (an air space). Rivet the lower
edge of the aluminum sheet to the bottom edge of the Lexan with counter
sunk rivets. You will not need spacer washers on the bottom edge.
This is as light in weight as the adhesive aluminum reflector and
will last forever with better heat protection.
Carroll
RV-10 41087 N123CV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
This makes no sense to me. My -10 has no Lexan in the cowl or elsewhere. Also can't
imagine a Lexan and alum. sandwich being lighter than the adhesive alum.
foil. What am I missing?
Jim Berry
RV-10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408016#408016
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JimVillani" <Jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields |
The aluminum tape we use for exhaust vents on stoves works GREAT.
Its meant for High Heat Ventilation systems
I have used it on my 10 for 143 hours no problem.
The interior was "Browning" before I applied the tape.
No problems since.
I think the tape number is "704"...
If my aging memory serves me correctly...
Jim Villani
Kit# 41084
Jim(at)JimVillani.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields
This makes no sense to me. My -10 has no Lexan in the cowl or elsewhere.
Also can't imagine a Lexan and alum. sandwich being lighter than the
adhesive alum. foil. What am I missing?
Jim Berry
RV-10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408016#408016
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
My FWF is all stock unless I made a plans mistake.
-Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: jkreidler <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
I have a question about the louvers you are using, are those stock? It seems like
they are cut in the cowl more forward than most. Could it be that your installation
has more hot air being pulled out the forward portion of the cowl rather
than the aft opening? If that is the case then your fairing would see more
heat than others. Just a thought - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408001#408001
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
May I ask what kind of paint you used? - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408051#408051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
Jason
May I suggest that, when you ask a question regarding a previous email, you
do include the text of that previous email.
Best
Carlos
-----Mensagem original-----
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de jkreidler
Enviada: 5 de setembro de 2013 12:53
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
-->
May I ask what kind of paint you used? - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408051#408051
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Has this ever been done... |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
I filled up my RV-10 on its third flight and had to see that it leaks out through
the vent line. The QB tank maker obviously has forgoten to tighten the nut
to the an fitting inside the tank.
Did anyone ever manage to build a tool that would allow to enter through the tank
sensor hole to tighten it?
I'd hat to take off the tank and go with Vans advice and cut a hole to get inside
the tank, and ruin my paint job. The soft screws most likely won't come out
easily as well.
Any ideas?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408086#408086
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
I had the same issue and had to cut open tank to tighten. I heard after someone
made a tool but don't remember who it was.
Alan
N668G
202 hrs
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 5, 2013, at 4:41 PM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I filled up my RV-10 on its third flight and had to see that it leaks out through
the vent line. The QB tank maker obviously has forgoten to tighten the nut
to the an fitting inside the tank.
> Did anyone ever manage to build a tool that would allow to enter through the
tank sensor hole to tighten it?
> I'd hat to take off the tank and go with Vans advice and cut a hole to get inside
the tank, and ruin my paint job. The soft screws most likely won't come out
easily as well.
> Any ideas?
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final system testing)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408086#408086
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)me.com> |
Do like I did. Have Vans send you a new tank. Mine leaked from the rivets.Not enough
proseal. I sent a DTPA notice and got new tanks made and installed by Vans.
The new tanks still leak the same. I gave up. I found another way to seal
my pimply looking tanks. Regards, Robert
On Sep 5, 2013, at 3:41 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I filled up my RV-10 on its third flight and had to see that it leaks out through
the vent line. The QB tank maker obviously has forgoten to tighten the nut
to the an fitting inside the tank.
> Did anyone ever manage to build a tool that would allow to enter through the
tank sensor hole to tighten it?
> I'd hat to take off the tank and go with Vans advice and cut a hole to get inside
the tank, and ruin my paint job. The soft screws most likely won't come out
easily as well.
> Any ideas?
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (final system testing)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408086#408086
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Mike Andresen in AZ had this problem and machined a tool to fix it without cutting
into the wing.
I'm pretty sure he is on here, but don't know his moniker. He has a blog of his
build that most likely describes it. His email is
azcloudflyer(at)earthlink.net
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408095#408095
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Monster retread clearance issue? |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's almost time
for new ones. Based on the recommendations here, I'm considering the
Monster retreads. Do I need to worry about my wheel pant clearance? If
so, I may just get the Aero Classics again. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
The info you are looking for is on the VAF site. Search for azcloudflyer 2011 for
a description and photos of the tool he made.
Jim Berry
RV-10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408099#408099
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monster retread clearance issue? |
| From: | "PlaneAround,LLC" <strasnuts(at)gmail.com> |
I blew the sides out on one pant from switching to retreads and not widening
the gap. Make sure you have clearance.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 5, 2013, at 16:07, Rob Kochman wrote:
> After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's almost time f
or new ones. Based on the recommendations here, I'm considering the Monster
retreads. Do I need to worry about my wheel pant clearance? If so, I may j
ust get the Aero Classics again. Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway1(at)gmail.com> |
Mike,
I can confirm that arizonacloudflyers's tool works. Same issue, QB wings and they
hadn't tightened the nut that holds the vent line to the end of wing. In
my case,, the plane wasn't painted so I pulled the tanks for easier access. After
putting the tanks back on, I tested to see if it would still work with the
wings on. I can confirm that you will have sufficient access with just the
wing walk covers removed.
Tom Hanaway
--------
RV-10. Built and sold
RV-8a. Building
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408104#408104
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monster retread clearance issue? |
The ones you get from Desser are NOT monster retreads. They are listed as H
igh Performance Retreads. The "Monster" ones don't come in our size. Yes, t
here may be a little more tread and clearance needed with any change in tire
, but ours aren't Monster.
Tim
On Sep 5, 2013, at 6:07 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's almost time f
or new ones. Based on the recommendations here, I'm considering the Monster
retreads. Do I need to worry about my wheel pant clearance? If so, I may j
ust get the Aero Classics again. Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monster retread clearance issue? |
I just switched back to Aero Classics from Desser retreads. I got about
200 landings out of the retreads. The thing I really didn't like was that
the plane was VERY hard to pull around with the towbar using the retreads.
The aeroclassics are much easier, and FWIW they weigh at least 4 lbs less
per tire.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:07 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's almost time
> for new ones. Based on the recommendations here, I'm considering the
> Monster retreads. Do I need to worry about my wheel pant clearance? If
> so, I may just get the Aero Classics again. Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Monster retread clearance issue? |
Tim is correct, no monster retreads in our main gear size.
I just replaced both mains two weeks ago with Desser retreads. I only had
120 hours on the original Aero Classics but I found one tire ruined from a
dragging brake (and that brake pad worn down to the rivets). I replaced
both tires just because. The only thing I could find on the brake problem
was perhaps a rolled brake caliper 'O' ring. The right side was fine and
that brake pad looked brand new.
No problem with clearance on the retreads. The cores are Goodyear and the
quality looked good.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Monster retread clearance issue?
The ones you get from Desser are NOT monster retreads. They are listed as
High Performance Retreads. The "Monster" ones don't come in our size. Yes,
there may be a little more tread and clearance needed with any change in
tire, but ours aren't Monster.
Tim
On Sep 5, 2013, at 6:07 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's almost time for
new ones. Based on the recommendations here, I'm considering the Monster
retreads. Do I need to worry about my wheel pant clearance? If so, I may
just get the Aero Classics again. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing |
Its PPG Deltron base with clear. K36 primer and alodined.
-Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: jkreidler <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
May I ask what kind of paint you used? - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408051#408051
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
here is the link
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=74258
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408114#408114
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monster retread clearance issue? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I would advise against the Monster Retreads. Yes they might last a bit
longer, but you will do less landings as you get more time, and the
landings will be ever so much smoother that the replacements will last
twice as long. ;-) I use standard Desser retreads on my Mooney, where
clearance in the gear wells would be an issue with the Monster retreads.
Never had a clearance problem.
On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:07 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's almost time
> for new ones. Based on the recommendations here, I'm considering the
> Monster retreads. Do I need to worry about my wheel pant clearance? If
> so, I may just get the Aero Classics again. Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
We were able to do it here, with a bit of patience, some smaller hands and
. . . offset wrenches?? I don't remember exactly, but no need to cut your
tanks open!
I'll have to ask the guy who did it what he did ...
On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 2:35 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Mike Andresen in AZ had this problem and machined a tool to fix it without
> cutting into the wing.
>
> I'm pretty sure he is on here, but don't know his moniker. He has a blog
> of his build that most likely describes it. His email is
> azcloudflyer(at)earthlink.net
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF
> complete.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408095#408095
>
>
--
*Aircrafters*
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville CA, 95076
KWVI
831-722-9141
www.AircraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Great, thats exactly the info I was hoping for!
Did I ever mention this forum is GREAT!!
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408121#408121
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monster retread clearance issue? |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks, guys... I may just stay with what I have for simplicity reasons and
based on the other feedback.
On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 8:10 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I would advise against the Monster Retreads. Yes they might last a bit
> longer, but you will do less landings as you get more time, and the
> landings will be ever so much smoother that the replacements will last
> twice as long. ;-) I use standard Desser retreads on my Mooney, where
> clearance in the gear wells would be an issue with the Monster retreads.
> Never had a clearance problem.
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:07 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>
>> After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's almost time
>> for new ones. Based on the recommendations here, I'm considering the
>> Monster retreads. Do I need to worry about my wheel pant clearance? If
>> so, I may just get the Aero Classics again. Thanks...
>>
>> -Rob
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>> Woodinville, WA
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monster retread clearance issue? |
I have heard good feedback on the Goodyear tires as well. Maybe more
expensive but yet another option over the aero classics.
From: Rob Kochman
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Monster retread clearance issue?
Thanks, guys... I may just stay with what I have for simplicity reasons
and based on the other feedback.
On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 8:10 PM, Kelly McMullen
wrote:
I would advise against the Monster Retreads. Yes they might last a bit
longer, but you will do less landings as you get more time, and the
landings will be ever so much smoother that the replacements will last
twice as long. ;-) I use standard Desser retreads on my Mooney, where
clearance in the gear wells would be an issue with the Monster retreads.
Never had a clearance problem.
On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:07 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's almost
time for new ones. Based on the recommendations here, I'm considering
the Monster retreads. Do I need to worry about my wheel pant clearance?
If so, I may just get the Aero Classics again. Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monster retread clearance issue? |
One thing to be aware of on the Goodyears, or any other tire for that
matter, is
that the tire shape is not identical. So always always check for good
clearance.
As far as I'm concerned, there isn't anything major that would swing a
person
towards one tire or another. The expensive ones usually get more landings,
the cheaper ones usually get less...but in cost per landing it's
probably not
huge either way. Also, the retreads may weigh more, but they're still built
on name brand cores...mine have usually been Goodyear cores. So, if they
weigh more, think about it....that means there is more rubber there.
So there really isn't any big sway one way or the other.
Goodyear, AeroClassic, Retreads...so far I just find the retreads to be the
most rubber for the buck, but there isn't really anything that you can do
to make a very significant mistake in buying tires if you just get something
that's known to work ok.
Tim
On 9/6/2013 2:18 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I have heard good feedback on the Goodyear tires as well. Maybe more
> expensive but yet another option over the aero classics.
> *From:* Rob Kochman
> *Sent:* Friday, September 06, 2013 11:40 AM
> *To:* rv10-list
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Monster retread clearance issue?
> Thanks, guys... I may just stay with what I have for simplicity
> reasons and based on the other feedback.
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 8:10 PM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
> I would advise against the Monster Retreads. Yes they might last a
> bit longer, but you will do less landings as you get more time,
> and the landings will be ever so much smoother that the
> replacements will last twice as long. ;-) I use standard Desser
> retreads on my Mooney, where clearance in the gear wells would be
> an issue with the Monster retreads. Never had a clearance problem.
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:07 PM, Rob Kochman > wrote:
>
> After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's
> almost time for new ones. Based on the recommendations here,
> I'm considering the Monster retreads. Do I need to worry
> about my wheel pant clearance? If so, I may just get the Aero
> Classics again. Thanks...
> -Rob
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution *
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monster retread clearance issue? |
Just keep in mind that the most expensive tire, the Goodyear Flight
Custom III is the heaviest tire made for any given size. Often by a
couple pounds or more per tire. I have had much better wear life with
Desser standard retreads than any other tire. I believe the retread is a
little harder compound. I do not find them any heavier than a stock new
tire. You may get any brand core. Depending on their stock and which
sales person you get, you may be able to specify which brand core you want.
On 9/6/2013 12:42 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> One thing to be aware of on the Goodyears, or any other tire for that
> matter, is
> that the tire shape is not identical. So always always check for good
> clearance.
> As far as I'm concerned, there isn't anything major that would swing a
> person
> towards one tire or another. The expensive ones usually get more
> landings,
> the cheaper ones usually get less...but in cost per landing it's
> probably not
> huge either way. Also, the retreads may weigh more, but they're still
> built
> on name brand cores...mine have usually been Goodyear cores. So, if they
> weigh more, think about it....that means there is more rubber there.
> So there really isn't any big sway one way or the other.
> Goodyear, AeroClassic, Retreads...so far I just find the retreads to
> be the
> most rubber for the buck, but there isn't really anything that you can do
> to make a very significant mistake in buying tires if you just get
> something
> that's known to work ok.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 9/6/2013 2:18 PM, Pascal wrote:
>> I have heard good feedback on the Goodyear tires as well. Maybe more
>> expensive but yet another option over the aero classics.
>> *From:* Rob Kochman
>> *Sent:* Friday, September 06, 2013 11:40 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Monster retread clearance issue?
>> Thanks, guys... I may just stay with what I have for simplicity
>> reasons and based on the other feedback.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 8:10 PM, Kelly McMullen > > wrote:
>>
>> I would advise against the Monster Retreads. Yes they might last
>> a bit longer, but you will do less landings as you get more time,
>> and the landings will be ever so much smoother that the
>> replacements will last twice as long. ;-) I use standard Desser
>> retreads on my Mooney, where clearance in the gear wells would be
>> an issue with the Monster retreads. Never had a clearance problem.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:07 PM, Rob Kochman > > wrote:
>>
>> After ~300 landings on my original Aero Classics tires, it's
>> almost time for new ones. Based on the recommendations here,
>> I'm considering the Monster retreads. Do I need to worry
>> about my wheel pant clearance? If so, I may just get the
>> Aero Classics again. Thanks...
>> -Rob
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>> Woodinville, WA
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>> Woodinville, WA
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>> *
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
Although I don=99t have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc.
in preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop
governor cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the
bracket that bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable above
the engine, which would be a preferred route. I can find no
documentation on this routing in the plans or the instruction page that
came with the bracket. Nor can I find anything in the forum searches.
Does anyone have any info on this subject (links to your website, cable
length, etc.)
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop govenor |
All the 10s I've seen have it come up from the bottom, but there's no
physical reason it couldn't route over the cylinders. Lots of other planes
do that. You'd probably need a custom cable, though.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 6:14 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> Although I don=99t have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc.
in
> preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop governo
r
> cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the bracket that
> bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable above the engine,
> which would be a preferred route. I can find no documentation on this
> routing in the plans or the instruction page that came with the bracket.
> Nor can I find anything in the forum searches. Does anyone have any info
on
> this subject (links to your website, cable length, etc.)
> Chris Hukill
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop govenor |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You would also have a greater need to have a cable with good temperature
resistance as a cable on the top would be subjected to significant
temperatures in after flight heat soak, more so than under the engine. I'm
not sure I see any real advantage to going over the top.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 7:35 PM, Dave Saylor <
dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> wrote:
> All the 10s I've seen have it come up from the bottom, but there's no
> physical reason it couldn't route over the cylinders. Lots of other plan
es
> do that. You'd probably need a custom cable, though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 6:14 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
>
>> Although I don=92t have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc. in
>> preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop govern
or
>> cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the bracket that
>> bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable above the engine,
>> which would be a preferred route. I can find no documentation on this
>> routing in the plans or the instruction page that came with the bracket.
>> Nor can I find anything in the forum searches. Does anyone have any info
on
>> this subject (links to your website, cable length, etc.)
>> Chris Hukill
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems that
it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Headliner |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Is there a significant advantage to installing the Flightline headliner before
doing the final install on the cabin cover? How much inside prep is needed and
how about prep of the parts that remain exposed like the door frame, etc.?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408255#408255
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Headliner |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I can't speak specifically to the flightline headliner, since I have an Aerosport
Products headliner. But I'm sure the issues are similar.
You want to prep as much as you can with the cabin cover off the aircraft. It's
a hundred times easier.
Most folks prefer to sand smooth and fill any voids, depressions, and pin holes.
This is clearly easier with the cover upside down on the bench. The door
frame may need additional work depending on what type of doors seals you choose
to use.
There are at least three variations of cabin covers. One green and two pink.
The two pink ones have slightly different dimensions from the the step down that
separates the front and back. This may cause some additional tweaking of
the headliner depending on which cover you received.
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 9, 2013, at 12:18 AM, "bob88" wrote:
>
> Is there a significant advantage to installing the Flightline headliner before
doing the final install on the cabin cover? How much inside prep is needed and
how about prep of the parts that remain exposed like the door frame, etc.?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408255#408255
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Headliner |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
bob88 wrote:
> Is there a significant advantage to installing the Flightline headliner before
doing the final install on the cabin cover? How much inside prep is needed and
how about prep of the parts that remain exposed like the door frame, etc.?
I used the full Flightline headliner - no overhead console. I glued it in while
it was upside down on my work table. I think it was much easier that way. I left
extra fabric at the windows, ends, etc., so I could trim it later. When you
work on the trim later, you will be glad you didn't have to do it "Michelangelo
style".
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408261#408261
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Make it easy to get to, behind the baggage bulkhead. Put the antenna on the top
- nobody notices antennas anyway. Keep in mind that it uses an "almost" ordinary
telephone cord between it and your panel. You need that cord in place when
pulling wires.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408262#408262
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop govenor |
The only ones I see go over the cylinders is when there is an air
conditioner installed. I don't know if this causes any problems with
heat or not, but it can and has been done. Might try someone who has air
conditioning, especially with the Airflow Systems unit, to see how
theirs hold up.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Sep 8, 2013, at 11:49 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> You would also have a greater need to have a cable with good
temperature resistance as a cable on the top would be subjected to
significant temperatures in after flight heat soak, more so than under
the engine. I'm not sure I see any real advantage to going over the top.
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 7:35 PM, Dave Saylor
wrote:
> All the 10s I've seen have it come up from the bottom, but there's no
physical reason it couldn't route over the cylinders. Lots of other
planes do that. You'd probably need a custom cable, though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 6:14 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> Although I don=92t have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc. in
preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop
governor cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the
bracket that bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable above
the engine, which would be a preferred route. I can find no
documentation on this routing in the plans or the instruction page that
came with the bracket. Nor can I find anything in the forum searches.
Does anyone have any info on this subject (links to your website, cable
length, etc.)
> Chris Hukill
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
While I agree with mounting the ELT in the area behind the baggage
compartment, I don't agree with mounting the antenna just anywhere on top.
Antennas and spacing do matter. You need at least 2 ft from any com or
GPS antenna, and 3 ft is better. The closer the ELT antenna is to the
vertical stabilizer the better it will be protected from crash damage.
The neat, out of sight mounting between the vert and horiz stabilizers
under the fiberglass fairing is probably the best crash protected
location. While the manufacturer's instructions call for mounting
within 20 or 30 degrees of vertical, it is somewhat difficult to define
where vertical will be post-crash. I mounted mine on the rear most
bulkhead before the vertical stab, and will use a nylon wire clamp to
keep the other end of the antenna clear of any metal.
There is one other issue with ELT antennas that is rarely discussed. The
121.5 transmitters are easily excited by TV and FM signals which are
close in frequency, and they re-radiate that energy. If there is a com
antenna anywhere near the ELT antenna it can cause a nasty squelch break
that interferes. I had this problem with my Mooney when all the com
antennas were on top of fuselage. I was able to greatly reduce it by
moving one com antenna to the belly. Yes, newer ELTs are supposed to
have better suppression of this "feature" but I doubt they have
eliminated it. Likewise any VHF transmission anywhere near your GPS
antenna creates potential for interference with GPS. So mounting your
ELT as far away from other antennas as possible is beneficial.
On 9/9/2013 6:17 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> Make it easy to get to, behind the baggage bulkhead. Put the antenna on the top
- nobody notices antennas anyway. Keep in mind that it uses an "almost" ordinary
telephone cord between it and your panel. You need that cord in place when
pulling wires.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408262#408262
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
The only install I've seen with the prop gov cable on top was an RV-10 with
an AC compressor on the engine (the compressor blocked the normal cable
path).
The Van's prop gov cable bracket did not work on my plane. I made a cable
bracket that is part of the left baffles (I did not use the Van's baffle
kit). Photo attached. Please look past the temporary hardware and screws
not yet having safety wire.
I used the cable Van's sells.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: prop govenor
You would also have a greater need to have a cable with good temperature
resistance as a cable on the top would be subjected to significant
temperatures in after flight heat soak, more so than under the engine. I'm
not sure I see any real advantage to going over the top.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 7:35 PM, Dave Saylor
wrote:
All the 10s I've seen have it come up from the bottom, but there's no
physical reason it couldn't route over the cylinders. Lots of other planes
do that. You'd probably need a custom cable, though.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 6:14 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
Although I don't have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc. in
preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop governor
cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the bracket that
bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable above the engine,
which would be a preferred route. I can find no documentation on this
routing in the plans or the instruction page that came with the bracket. Nor
can I find anything in the forum searches. Does anyone have any info on this
subject (links to your website, cable length, etc.)
Chris Hukill
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
As a guy who tests ELTs and gets paid to do it, Kelly's advise is
invaluable. Cosmetically hiding ELT antenna produced too many units which
won't propagate an adequate signal. It looks like you have a unit but the
signal strength is inadequate.
John
On Sep 9, 2013 7:17 AM, "Kelly McMullen" wrote:
>
> While I agree with mounting the ELT in the area behind the baggage
> compartment, I don't agree with mounting the antenna just anywhere on top.
> Antennas and spacing do matter. You need at least 2 ft from any com or GPS
> antenna, and 3 ft is better. The closer the ELT antenna is to the vertical
> stabilizer the better it will be protected from crash damage. The neat,
> out of sight mounting between the vert and horiz stabilizers under the
> fiberglass fairing is probably the best crash protected location. While
> the manufacturer's instructions call for mounting within 20 or 30 degrees
> of vertical, it is somewhat difficult to define where vertical will be
> post-crash. I mounted mine on the rear most bulkhead before the vertical
> stab, and will use a nylon wire clamp to keep the other end of the antenna
> clear of any metal.
> There is one other issue with ELT antennas that is rarely discussed. The
> 121.5 transmitters are easily excited by TV and FM signals which are close
> in frequency, and they re-radiate that energy. If there is a com antenna
> anywhere near the ELT antenna it can cause a nasty squelch break that
> interferes. I had this problem with my Mooney when all the com antennas
> were on top of fuselage. I was able to greatly reduce it by moving one com
> antenna to the belly. Yes, newer ELTs are supposed to have better
> suppression of this "feature" but I doubt they have eliminated it. Likewise
> any VHF transmission anywhere near your GPS antenna creates potential for
> interference with GPS. So mounting your ELT as far away from other antennas
> as possible is beneficial.
>
> On 9/9/2013 6:17 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> Make it easy to get to, behind the baggage bulkhead. Put the antenna on
>> the top - nobody notices antennas anyway. Keep in mind that it uses an
>> "almost" ordinary telephone cord between it and your panel. You need that
>> cord in place when pulling wires.
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/**viewtopic.php?p=408262#408262>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a spot
for it next to the batteries like others.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems that
it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
For future builders...buy slow build and two quarts of proseal. If QB then pressurize
tanks to 1 psi upon receipt. Paint after test flying.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408277#408277
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
Tk9XIHlvdSB0ZWxsIG1lISDwn5iKDQpJdCdzIGEgbG90IGVhc2llciB0byBjaGVjayB0aGUgdGFu
a3MgQkVGT1JFIHRoZXkgYXJlIG1vdW50ZWQgb24gdGhlIHBsYW5lLiAg8J+Ygg0KDQo+IFN1Ympl
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CQkgIA=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
I used less than 1 quart, more like 3/4 used. Thus far the tanks have been
solid and there have been no leaks from the build. The idea was to get the
seal in enough that it "just" bulges out, than with a qtip I smoothed it all
out. Every rivet was prosealed, than another quick dab around every rivet. I
feared that I wasn't using enough but in the end, one just needs enough to
seal everything without too much in between the pieces, too much and it is
harder to rivet, unless a larger rivet is used, and proseal oozes out
everywhere.
It is a time consuming process and if anything requires a detailed
attention, it's the tanks. I went through numerous syringes but that was the
best method to get the width and application on smoothly.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: rv10flyer
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 8:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
For future builders...buy slow build and two quarts of proseal. If QB then
pressurize tanks to 1 psi upon receipt. Paint after test flying.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408277#408277
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
There really is no excuse for not testing a tank and correcting it
before it ever left the shop. Its more work to fix the tank from the
outside than doing it right from the inside.
From: Danny Riggs
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
What's a pain is when you pay good money for a QB and the tanks still
leak.
> From: rv10flyer(at)live.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
> Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2013 09:02:15 -0700
>
>
> I used less than 1 quart, more like 3/4 used. Thus far the tanks have
been
> solid and there have been no leaks from the build. The idea was to get
the
> seal in enough that it "just" bulges out, than with a qtip I smoothed
it all
> out. Every rivet was prosealed, than another quick dab around every
rivet. I
> feared that I wasn't using enough but in the end, one just needs
enough to
> seal everything without too much in between the pieces, too much and
it is
> harder to rivet, unless a larger rivet is used, and proseal oozes out
> everywhere.
> It is a time consuming process and if anything requires a detailed
> attention, it's the tanks. I went through numerous syringes but that
was the
> best method to get the width and application on smoothly.
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rv10flyer
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 8:41 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
>
>
> For future builders...buy slow build and two quarts of proseal. If QB
then
> pressurize tanks to 1 psi upon receipt. Paint after test flying.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408277#408277
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=03g(=EF=BD=EF
=BD=EF=BDM=EF=BDGq=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
Geoff Combs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sausen
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a
spot for it next to the batteries like others.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical
stabilizer and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit,
it seems that it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how
does the antenna live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
I tested mine and they were both good. After about a year and a half
the passenger tank started leaking, one rivet in the walk area. And,
after 5 years, I now have a seep out of the pilot take walk area. Would
not call it a leak yet, but it will need some
attention.
I thought I did a good job on the walk area.but maybe not. L
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
There really is no excuse for not testing a tank and correcting it
before it ever left the shop. Its more work to fix the tank from the
outside than doing it right from the inside.
From: Danny Riggs <mailto:jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
What's a pain is when you pay good money for a QB and the tanks still
leak. Emoji
> From: rv10flyer(at)live.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
> Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2013 09:02:15 -0700
>
>
> I used less than 1 quart, more like 3/4 used. Thus far the tanks have
been
> solid and there have been no leaks from the build. The idea was to get
the
> seal in enough that it "just" bulges out, than with a qtip I smoothed
it all
> out. Every rivet was prosealed, than another quick dab around every
rivet. I
> feared that I wasn't using enough but in the end, one just needs
enough to
> seal everything without too much in between the pieces, too much and
it is
> harder to rivet, unless a larger rivet is used, and proseal oozes out
> everywhere.
> It is a time consuming process and if anything requires a detailed
> attention, it's the tanks. I went through numerous syringes but that
was the
> best method to get the width and application on smoothly.
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rv10flyer
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 8:41 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
>
>
> For future builders...buy slow build and two quarts of proseal. If QB
then
> pressurize tanks to 1 psi upon receipt. Paint after test flying.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408277#408277
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> Features Browse, Chat, via the Web http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD
_____
g(=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDM=EF=BDGq=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Launching online classifieds for homebuilders: SkySwapper.com |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Hey everyone.
Over the past few years I've noticed that many homebuilders tend to stick
to their own online groups. Also, when people are looking to buy or sell
parts (or planes), that experience is also quite fragmented. There will be
different postings on email lists, VAF, and all the other dedicated builder
sites... but often these listings would be of interest to everyone
regardless of which type of plane they are building or flying.
To try to help people reach across those divisions, I am launching a new
website:
SkySwapper.com <http://skyswapper.com/>
<http://skyswapper.com/>
It's an online classifieds site purely dedicated to the experimental
aviation community.
Of course, since it's brand new, it's pretty empty... but I'm hoping you
all can help me with that. Posting ads with one photo will always be free,
but sign up using the promo code: 10builders
and you'll get the ability to post ads with 4 up to pictures for free as
thanks for being one of the early adopters.
(Or simply register with this link:)
www.skyswapper.com/register.php?registration_code=10builders
Since I'm a -10 builder, I decided that this is the group that I'd launch
with first. The site is still in a beta release, so comments, suggestions,
and complaints are all very important to me.
Thanks for your time and happy building and flying!
Ed Kranz
RV10 (working on cabin top)
SkySwapper.com <http://www.skyswapper.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks to AZcloudflyer his tool and method worked the vent line doesn't leak anymore.
Just for information this leak can not be detected with vans proposed method
o leak testing because the leak is in the vent line inside the tank. You
have to plug the vent line with your finger near the fuel cap opening and apply
pleasure on the vent line fitting. Now HB-YNN is filled up and after 1h of
flight it seams to still to be tight.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408288#408288
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Launching online classifieds for homebuilders: SkySwapper.com |
Looks good Ed!
I just registered and will be looking for stuff around the shop to sell.
Good Luck!
From: Ed Kranz
Sent: Monday, September 9, 2013 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Launching online classifieds for homebuilders:
SkySwapper.com
Hey everyone.
Over the past few years I've noticed that many homebuilders tend to
stick to their own online groups. Also, when people are looking to buy
or sell parts (or planes), that experience is also quite fragmented.
There will be different postings on email lists, VAF, and all the other
dedicated builder sites... but often these listings would be of interest
to everyone regardless of which type of plane they are building or
flying.
To try to help people reach across those divisions, I am launching a new
website:
SkySwapper.com
It's an online classifieds site purely dedicated to the experimental
aviation community.
Of course, since it's brand new, it's pretty empty... but I'm hoping you
all can help me with that. Posting ads with one photo will always be
free, but sign up using the promo code: 10builders
and you'll get the ability to post ads with 4 up to pictures for free as
thanks for being one of the early adopters.
(Or simply register with this link:)
www.skyswapper.com/register.php?registration_code=10builders
Since I'm a -10 builder, I decided that this is the group that I'd
launch with first. The site is still in a beta release, so comments,
suggestions, and complaints are all very important to me.
Thanks for your time and happy building and flying!
Ed Kranz
RV10 (working on cabin top)
SkySwapper.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Geoff,
That's the old 121.5. The new 406 E-04 is much longer and won't fit.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
Geoff Combs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sausen
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a spot
for it next to the batteries like others.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems that
it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Not true.... I added legs to my bracket on the new E-04 and that makes
it fit fine. I think that's what Geoff was referring to also.
The old one was shaped differently. The new one I needed to raise
up a little, and then it fit fine.
Here's my write-up from 2011 when I did it.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110506/index.html
Tim
On 9/9/2013 1:50 PM, Michael Sausen wrote:
>
> Geoff,
>
> That's the old 121.5. The new 406 E-04 is much longer and won't fit.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:42 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
> I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sausen
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a spot
for it next to the batteries like others.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems
that it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
>
>
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August 06, 2013 - September 09, 2013
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-jm