RV10-Archive.digest.vol-jn
September 09, 2013 - October 24, 2013
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Interesting, just noticed the one in Geoff's picture is the old one.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 2:01 PM
Cc: Michael Sausen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Not true.... I added legs to my bracket on the new E-04 and that makes it fit
fine. I think that's what Geoff was referring to also.
The old one was shaped differently. The new one I needed to raise up a little,
and then it fit fine.
Here's my write-up from 2011 when I did it.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110506/index.html
Tim
On 9/9/2013 1:50 PM, Michael Sausen wrote:
>
> Geoff,
>
> That's the old 121.5. The new 406 E-04 is much longer and won't fit.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:42 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
> I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Sausen
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a spot
for it next to the batteries like others.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems
that it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Guys,
This confusion has happened before.
Model E-04 is made by ACK technologies.
Unfortunately Ameri-King (shown in the photo) uses "AK-xxx" for their model numbers
and is often confused with ACK.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408296#408296
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
That is correct. These pictures were over 4 yrs ago. Below is the new 406
Ameriking that is a drop in
Replacement Pretty much. See Pictures
Geoff
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling and Design
8090 howe industrial pkwy
canal winchester, ohio 43110
614.834.5227p
614.834.5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sausen
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Interesting, just noticed the one in Geoff's picture is the old one.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 2:01 PM
Cc: Michael Sausen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Not true.... I added legs to my bracket on the new E-04 and that makes it
fit fine. I think that's what Geoff was referring to also.
The old one was shaped differently. The new one I needed to raise up a
little, and then it fit fine.
Here's my write-up from 2011 when I did it.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110506/index.html
Tim
On 9/9/2013 1:50 PM, Michael Sausen wrote:
>
> Geoff,
>
> That's the old 121.5. The new 406 E-04 is much longer and won't fit.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:42 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
> I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Sausen
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a
spot for it next to the batteries like others.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical
stabilizer and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit,
it seems that it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how
does the antenna live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Not an ACK but here's my ELT mounting solution ......
It's an ACR/Artex ME406, but you can make the 'shelf' to fit just about
anything. That's 3/4" alum channel with a piece of scrap alum riveted
between and mounts the ELT. Those holes allow screw to go into
nutplates to hold everything down.
I was waiting to talk to folks in a booth at Airventure last year and
was standing next to the Artex booth. Filled out the entry for the ELT
giveaway while I waited. Won the raffle! I hope to never use it
though! ;-)
Linn
On 9/9/2013 3:20 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> This confusion has happened before.
> Model E-04 is made by ACK technologies.
> Unfortunately Ameri-King (shown in the photo) uses "AK-xxx" for their model numbers
and is often confused with ACK.
>
> Bob
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408296#408296
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop govenor |
I'm actually in process of reinstalling the prop controller cable as a
replacement for the original Vans cable in my flying '10 because it
needed to be longer. I'd go with the low route unless you have some
other consideration.
The Vans bracket and under the engine routing looks good as long as a
slightly longer cable (1" longer) is used. I'll have this completed
this evening or tomorrow.
The too short cables situation is pretty well documented on this forum.
Looks to me that Vans sized them for routing with the original heat
shroud design. Add an inch too them and the Vetterman exhaust permits
easy, no interference routing.
I ordered replacement Cablecraft cables from California Push-Pull per
Dave Saylors recommendation. They were custom fabbed the same day and
shipped immediately - about $65/cable. Indistinquishable from Van's
cables except I got the high temp black covering. Recommend them highly.
Will post details and pics later.
Bill "cussing out Matco for lazy shipping practices" Watson
On 9/8/2013 9:14 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> Although I dont have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc. in
> preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop
> governor cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the
> bracket that bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable
> above the engine, which would be a preferred route. I can find no
> documentation on this routing in the plans or the instruction page
> that came with the bracket. Nor can I find anything in the forum
> searches. Does anyone have any info on this subject (links to your
> website, cable length, etc.)
> Chris Hukill
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | life of the Odyssey |
I have 2 680s running in parallel. they have started my 10 since 4/2008
(700+TT) and show no signs of failing to accept a charge or cranking the
engine. How long should these be expected to work? Will they fail in a way
that allows me to get back home to the hangar where I have two new 680s
waiting? I am off to the Reno Races soon.
N46007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
I was at Aircraft Spruce customer day last year and spoke with the head
engineer at Odyssey. He told me if I used the =9Ccorrect=9D
tricklecharger that the battery would last a good 10 years as a minimum.
From: DLM
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 7:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: life of the Odyssey
I have 2 680s running in parallel. they have started my 10 since 4/2008
(700+TT) and show no signs of failing to accept a charge or cranking the
engine. How long should these be expected to work? Will they fail in a
way that allows me to get back home to the hangar where I have two new
680s waiting? I am off to the Reno Races soon.
N46007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm getting ready to fly two cats from Georgia to New Jersey. Vets lean towards
1mg/lb of Benadryl to calm them down. Also suggested to stuff cotton in their
ears. Naturally, they are in small carriers.
I'm thinking that the carriers in the rear seats would be better than baggage compartment.
Comments?
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408333#408333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying a Cat |
I think that's a lot of Benadryl, but I'm not a doctor and I don't play
one on TV. How do they ride in the car? The plane is louder. Will
someone be with to talk to the cats, calm them, reassure them? Cats do
respond to a calm human voice. They also respond to an angry human
voice but in a different way.
I'm sure cotton in their ears would drive them crazy. It wouldn't be
there long. They don't tolerate objects in their ears well at all.
Humans don't either but we know why we have ear plugs in place and
tolerate them, sort of. If you place the cotton deep in their ears you
risk injuring the ear.
Some veterinarians, and human doctors too, don't consider the instincts
of the patient when they make suggestions.
Just my thoughts and worth every bit you paid for them.
--
Lyle Peterson, EAA, PGR, AOPA, AAE,
MBS, AMA, MSCE, EAA Chapter 237
On 9/10/2013 8:20 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to fly two cats from Georgia to New Jersey. Vets lean towards
1mg/lb of Benadryl to calm them down. Also suggested to stuff cotton in their
ears. Naturally, they are in small carriers.
> I'm thinking that the carriers in the rear seats would be better than baggage
compartment. Comments?
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408333#408333
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying a Cat |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 9/10/2013 9:20 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to fly two cats from Georgia to New Jersey. Vets lean towards
1mg/lb of Benadryl to calm them down. Also suggested to stuff cotton in their
ears. Naturally, they are in small carriers.
> I'm thinking that the carriers in the rear seats would be better than baggage
compartment. Comments?
>
How well do they ride in the car? I used to take my cat flying
with me. He would curl up in the co-pilot seat and sleep most of the
trip (and no drugs were involved... :-) ).
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying a Cat |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
We've flown cats several times over the years. Our own cats and Pilots N Paws rescues.
They do just fine in a carrier with no need for medication. Most of them
go to sleep after airborne. I have had them in the back seat of our old Bonanza
and in the back seat and luggage area of the -10. The -10 luggage area can
get pretty chilly on long flights in cool or cold air and that is my only concern
about the luggage area.
I definitely would not try to stuff cotton or anything else in their ears! [Evil
or Very Mad]
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Transition Trainer
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408353#408353
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 9/9/2013 11:05 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I was at Aircraft Spruce customer day last year and spoke with the
> head engineer at Odyssey. He told me if I used the correct
> tricklecharger that the battery would last a good 10 years as a minimum.
>
That makes no sense to me. Did he also say you had to use a
"special" alternator to use these batteries in an airplane?
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
I also have 2 680's, and I also agree with Pascal.... putting it on a batte
ry minder every month or so, or when not flying for a period, also helps.
- Flying since 6-09 and have had no issues.... that being said, I bought
one new 680 which I will probably install soon so that I will end up with o
ne new and one older.... with the idea of replacing one about every 5 years
. =0A=0ADon Mc=0A=0AVetterman flyin was great.=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________
_______________=0A From: DLM <dlm34077(at)cox.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.c
om =0ASent: Monday, September 9, 2013 9:06 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: life of
the Odyssey=0A =0A=0A=0AI have 2 680s running in =0Aparallel. they have st
arted my 10 since 4/2008 (700+TT) and show no signs of =0Afailing to accept
a charge or cranking the engine. How long should these be =0Aexpected to w
ork? Will they fail in a way that allows me to get back home to the =0Ahang
ar where I have two new 680s waiting? I am off to the Reno Races =0Asoon.
=================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
That's because there is a difference between a battery tender and a battery
minder.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Dj Merrill
=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, September
10, 2013 10:54 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: life of the Odyssey=0A =0A=0A
=0AOn 9/9/2013 11:05 PM, Pascal wrote:=0A=0AI was at Aircraft Spruce custom
er day last year and spoke with the head engineer at Odyssey. He told me if
I used the =9Ccorrect=9D tricklecharger that the battery would
last a good 10 years as a minimum.=0A>=0A=0A=C2-=C2-=C2- That makes
no sense to me.=C2- Did he also say you had to use a=0A "special" alte
rnator to use these batteries in an airplane?=0A=0A-Dj=0A=0A=0A-- =0ADj Mer
rill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87=0ASportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - htt
p://deej.net/sportsman/ Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/ =0A
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Orth" <mosurf(at)xplornet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying a Cat |
Slightly off-topic but probably worth noting.
My black lab loved to fly. He would jump in the airplane and immediately go
to sleep...for a while.
Then the combination of reduced air pressure (outside the dog) and the
normal digestive gas (now relatively pressurized, inside the dog) combined
to create a large steaming pile in the cabin.
It happened more than once.
Nothing like trying to clean up at a fuel island on a hot day.
Experience speaking,
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: Dj Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flying a Cat
On 9/10/2013 9:20 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to fly two cats from Georgia to New Jersey. Vets lean
> towards 1mg/lb of Benadryl to calm them down. Also suggested to stuff
> cotton in their ears. Naturally, they are in small carriers.
> I'm thinking that the carriers in the rear seats would be better than
> baggage compartment. Comments?
>
How well do they ride in the car? I used to take my cat flying
with me. He would curl up in the co-pilot seat and sleep most of the
trip (and no drugs were involved... :-) ).
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
Indeed there is. I ruined 2 PC-680s using the 'wrong' trickle
charger. A "Battery Tender" brand charger as I recall.
The problem, as I recall, is that certain older types of 'trickle'
chargers are unable to fully charge a somewhat discharged AGM (Odyssey
type) battery. If you attempt to use your battery on the bench and
then put it on that type of trickle charger as I did, you will quickly
or slowly kill it.
The 'smarter' trickle chargers such as I presume the Batter Minder is,
will work okay I guess.
My solution has been to use a 10 amp smart charger from Walmart for all
charging of any and all 12 volt batteries. It has settings for 3 types
including AGM batteries. I charges at a high rate then goes into
trickle mode once fully charged. It costs <$40. I've considered
keeping a 2nd one for convenience. Don't operate it outside in the rain.
Bill "with all his 12 volt batteries in tip top shape" Watson
On 9/10/2013 12:10 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
> That's because there is a difference between a battery tender and a
> battery minder.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Dj Merrill
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 10, 2013 10:54 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: life of the Odyssey
>
> On 9/9/2013 11:05 PM, Pascal wrote:
>> I was at Aircraft Spruce customer day last year and spoke with the
>> head engineer at Odyssey. He told me if I used the correct
>> tricklecharger that the battery would last a good 10 years as a minimum.
>>
>
>
> That makes no sense to me. Did he also say you had to use a
> "special" alternator to use these batteries in an airplane?
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
> Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ -http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Glastar Flyer N866RH -http://deej.net/glastar/
>
> *http://www.matronics.c=================
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I am on my second PC-925 (I think that is the model) and am slightly unhappy. Both
batteries seem to have lost about 20% of their capacity. e.g., if I turn on
the landing lights, within a few seconds the voltage drops to 12.4 volts. After
that, the voltage drop with time is normal. It is as if I lost the top 20%
of capacity. Yes, I bought and use the charger recommended and sold by Odyssey.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408378#408378
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Bob, when possible can the model trickle-charger be identified so the
discussion can morph to "The most effective" make & model?
John 40600
On Sep 10, 2013 12:29 PM, "Bob Turner" wrote:
>
> I am on my second PC-925 (I think that is the model) and am slightly
> unhappy. Both batteries seem to have lost about 20% of their capacity.
> e.g., if I turn on the landing lights, within a few seconds the voltage
> drops to 12.4 volts. After that, the voltage drop with time is normal. It
> is as if I lost the top 20% of capacity. Yes, I bought and use the charger
> recommended and sold by Odyssey.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408378#408378
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop govenor |
| From: | "Jackm" <jackm(at)vinetechequipment.com> |
Not flying yet but I have gone above engine. two reasons, To go with Show Planes
cowl this is a requirement because lower install interferes with induction system,
My engine block did not have the two threaded bolt pattern the baffle needs
to secure right next to the prop cable bracket, therefore I used vans WA-153
bracket and routed above... I believe it is implement in the RV14 also. I
also did not install the left inlet ramp heat muf intake. I moved mine to right
rear next to the right heat muf intake...This was not my idea but came from
here from a guy a whole lot smarter than me
--------
Jackm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408381#408381
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My charger is the Odyssey OMAX-12A, recommended for the PC-925.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408384#408384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
Measuring battery capacity by voltage is only valid if there is no load on
the battery. See page 4 of the link:
http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-OM-011_0213.pdf
The other value of using Odyssey batteries is the exceptionally long shelf
life. In most practical applications this eliminates any need for trickle
charging. If you discharge the battery running the panel or such with no
engine, then any standard charger for a short period of time will bring up
the charge. I never leave a charger on the batteries.
If you beat an Odyssey battery into the ground by leaving a master on for
several days the battery is gone - replace it. You might breathe some life
into it with a charger but the capacity is gone. Use it in a tractor or as
a bench battery. You want the real deal in your airplane.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 3:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: life of the Odyssey
I am on my second PC-925 (I think that is the model) and am slightly
unhappy. Both batteries seem to have lost about 20% of their capacity. e.g.,
if I turn on the landing lights, within a few seconds the voltage drops to
12.4 volts. After that, the voltage drop with time is normal. It is as if I
lost the top 20% of capacity. Yes, I bought and use the charger recommended
and sold by Odyssey.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408378#408378
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying a Cat |
What you could do is putting a soft blanket on top of the carrier so it
would dampen the noise (leaving the font of the carrier free).
What we did with our dog is to try out first a circuit, then a 30 min
trip but we did use mutmuffs for ear protection.
Cheers Werner
On 10.09.2013 17:51, dmaib(at)me.com wrote:
>
> We've flown cats several times over the years. Our own cats and Pilots N Paws
rescues. They do just fine in a carrier with no need for medication. Most of
them go to sleep after airborne. I have had them in the back seat of our old Bonanza
and in the back seat and luggage area of the -10. The -10 luggage area
can get pretty chilly on long flights in cool or cold air and that is my only
concern about the luggage area.
> I definitely would not try to stuff cotton or anything else in their ears! [Evil
or Very Mad]
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> Transition Trainer
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408353#408353
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying a Cat |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I must be getting my forums and hobbies mixed up. I thought "flying a cat" was
going to be about the trapeze on a Hobie.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408407#408407
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
I'm sure this isn't news to many here, but there is a lot of discussion
on batts and chargers in the Aeroelectric list archive. Plenty of data
points and model numbers. Try a search using "Odyssey & charger".
On 9/10/2013 3:55 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Bob, when possible can the model trickle-charger be identified so the
> discussion can morph to "The most effective" make & model?
>
> John 40600
>
> On Sep 10, 2013 12:29 PM, "Bob Turner" > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I am on my second PC-925 (I think that is the model) and am
> slightly unhappy. Both batteries seem to have lost about 20% of
> their capacity. e.g., if I turn on the landing lights, within a
> few seconds the voltage drops to 12.4 volts. After that, the
> voltage drop with time is normal. It is as if I lost the top 20%
> of capacity. Yes, I bought and use the charger recommended and
> sold by Odyssey.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408378#408378
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 09/10/2013 02:38 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Indeed there is. I ruined 2 PC-680s using the 'wrong' trickle
> charger. A "Battery Tender" brand charger as I recall.
So here is my confusion. Say that you use the "correct" type of charger
to fully charge the battery, then you install the battery in the plane
and go fly a 5 hour cross country. Since you do not have a "special"
alternator, is it going to ruin the battery?
What is the fundamental difference in the way that the alternator
charges, versus the Battery Tender, versus the Battery Minder?
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
The different battery constructions .... flooded, AGM, gel, ..... have
different charge profiles for optimum life and capacity. There is so
much info out there on the care and feeding of batteries that you won't
find the time to read it all.
The dilemma in flying Vs. trickle charge is simple .... the flying is
only for a few hours at a time (typically) while the trickle chargers
are hooked up for days, weeks, or months. The cheaper chargers really
don't have any 'smarts' to control the charging curve and the charger
will force-feed the battery whether it needs it or not. The voltages at
rest, after being fully charged, vary amongst the different construction
technologies and so the 'one size fits all' charger doesn't work. My
charger has selectable battery types and is also a desulfator. I move
it around my various batteries to keep them happy. My last battery (not
an Odyssey) in the Traumahawk was 8 years old when I replaced it so I
think I may be doing something right. I haven't decided on the battery
for my -10 yet but I will probably lean toward a sealed gel type.
Linn
On 9/11/2013 11:26 AM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 09/10/2013 02:38 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>> Indeed there is. I ruined 2 PC-680s using the 'wrong' trickle
>> charger. A "Battery Tender" brand charger as I recall.
>
> So here is my confusion. Say that you use the "correct" type of charger
> to fully charge the battery, then you install the battery in the plane
> and go fly a 5 hour cross country. Since you do not have a "special"
> alternator, is it going to ruin the battery?
>
> What is the fundamental difference in the way that the alternator
> charges, versus the Battery Tender, versus the Battery Minder?
>
> -Dj
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
I'm no expert but I think you have the trickle vs flying thing right.
I understand the other problem with some trickle chargers (e.g. my old
'Battery Tender') is that they are unable to bring a discharged AGM
battery back to a fully charged state. I guess the charging level is
set such that it won't ruin a battery if hooked up forever. (sorry if I
repeated myself here)
Check out Aeroelectric for more details, numbers, graphs, etc. Bob
Nuckolls experience with the Schumacher line of chargers (Walmart) is
what led me there and it's working well with my collection of AGM and
lead acid batteries. It has a gel setting too.
On 9/11/2013 12:07 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> The different battery constructions .... flooded, AGM, gel, ..... have
> different charge profiles for optimum life and capacity. There is so
> much info out there on the care and feeding of batteries that you
> won't find the time to read it all.
>
> The dilemma in flying Vs. trickle charge is simple .... the flying is
> only for a few hours at a time (typically) while the trickle chargers
> are hooked up for days, weeks, or months. The cheaper chargers really
> don't have any 'smarts' to control the charging curve and the charger
> will force-feed the battery whether it needs it or not. The voltages
> at rest, after being fully charged, vary amongst the different
> construction technologies and so the 'one size fits all' charger
> doesn't work. My charger has selectable battery types and is also a
> desulfator. I move it around my various batteries to keep them
> happy. My last battery (not an Odyssey) in the Traumahawk was 8 years
> old when I replaced it so I think I may be doing something right. I
> haven't decided on the battery for my -10 yet but I will probably lean
> toward a sealed gel type.
> Linn
> On 9/11/2013 11:26 AM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>>
>> On 09/10/2013 02:38 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>> Indeed there is. I ruined 2 PC-680s using the 'wrong' trickle
>>> charger. A "Battery Tender" brand charger as I recall.
>>
>> So here is my confusion. Say that you use the "correct" type of charger
>> to fully charge the battery, then you install the battery in the plane
>> and go fly a 5 hour cross country. Since you do not have a "special"
>> alternator, is it going to ruin the battery?
>>
>> What is the fundamental difference in the way that the alternator
>> charges, versus the Battery Tender, versus the Battery Minder?
>>
>> -Dj
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
As I have posted before.
A while ago, I spoke with the Odyssey engineer regarding the proper charge voltage
during operational usage. The Odyssey batteries like to see a minimum of
14.3 and ideally around 14.5 volts. Most aircraft regulators are set somewhere
between 13.8-14.2. I suspect that a lot of the premature failures are caused
by improper operational charge voltage, as well as the improper battery charger
for this type of battery. The Odyssey charger starts its charge cycle at
around 14.7+ volts, depending how dead the battery is. (see below graph) Some
brands of external regulators are adjustable and could be set higher. In the
case of the Plane Power internally regulated alternators, it's a little more
difficult. The only way to increase the output voltage of the Alternator is
to create a voltage drop, such as a diode, in the field line. In the PP case,
the field line is used as the voltage "sense" input.
My Plane Power 60A alternator sits at 14.6 volts during normal flight. Most all
modern avionics are capable of regulating down from 30+ volts. Older avionics
maximum operational voltage should be verified prior to increasing your bus
voltage.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408457#408457
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_picture_177.bmp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)clear.net> |
Russ & Carol Kamtz were killed in a plane crash at Jackson Hole Wyoming
yesterday. Russ Kamptz has been my co-chair for the LOE Charity Fly In the
past 3 years and his and Carol's passing will be a huge loss to the RV
community.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)clear.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV Friends Lost |
The memorial service for Russ & Carol Kamtz , killed in a plane crash at
Jackson Hole Wyoming earlier this week will be held on September 21, 2013
at 10:30 am
The services will be at Emmanuel Lutheran Church, 4650 Sunview Drive,
Loveland, CO 80538.
Russ Kamptz has been my co-chair for the LOE Charity Fly In the past 3
years and this year we are going to do a dedication ceremony "In memory of
Russ & Carol Kamtz.
Russ Daves
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
Last Monday Sept. 9, we loaded the RV-10 for a 3 day visit to NY and Washington
DC. The weather gods were definitely smiling on us as we had tail winds and visibility
of 50+ miles.
Enroute to NY. we had a clear view of Niagara Falls as we passed just north of
it, also an excellent view of the Finger Lakes as we passed overhead.
First stop was West Chester Co. Airport in White Plains NY for Customs. Only a
few "Quality" minutes with these officers of the law and we were on our way.
The flight down the Hudson River turned out to be easier than expected. I was well
prepared having taken the on-line course as suggested. The NY TAC Chart is
a must for his flight as it sets out clear instructions with mandatory reporting
points ect.
After the flight down the Hudson and a lunch and fuel stop in Farmingdale NJ we
continued to Gaithersburg MD near Washington for what turned out to be a fantastic
trip.
--------
Ivan Kristensen.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (430hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408636#408636
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/4_149.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/7_992.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/5_196.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_174.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/3_155.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1a_555.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
I forgot to attach the following picture.
--------
Ivan Kristensen.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (430hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408664#408664
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_york_washington_trip3_172.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying a Cat |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
They survived!
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408665#408665
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the Hudson through NY and to Washington DC. |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
For clarity to US pilots, your stops were Westchester NY (KHPN) and
Monmouth NJ (KBLM).
Glad you had a good trip.
* *
On Mon, Sep 16, 2013 at 5:32 AM, ivankris wrote:
>
> I forgot to attach the following picture.
>
> --------
> Ivan Kristensen.
>
> www.ivankristensen.com
> Builder # 40838
> Flying (430hrs.)
> C-GMDV
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
I'm getting ready to take the fuselage to the hangar and I wanted to
check on a couple things first.
I am bit worried about the wench on the tow truck hooking to the nose
gear to get it on the truck. Not sure the weld on the front is meant to
take stresses in that direction? Is that fine or are there other options?
Anyone with a parking break, did you put fluid in the system and set the
parking break when on the truck?
I know the tilt of the truck when loading has the potential to rub the
tail when loading and unloading. I have grades at pickup and delivery
that would probably help that, but I assume you just have to be aware
and watch for that.
-Sean #40303 (last 90% to go)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
There a different sizes of flatbeds available. You want one with a roll dow
n bed and you also want one with a totally flat bed with the tie down rails
flush with the deck, not up as the wheels may not clear especially if you
have the axle extensions on for the wheel fairings. My driver arrived with
the smaller flatbed and had to go get the larger one. The deck needs to be
long and fully extended before tilting down to the ground. I had no problem
getting up and on with plenty of ground clearance at the tail. I have park
ing brakes and used them. The operator had a tow strap that we wrapped arou
nd the nose strut twice then hooked to the winch cable hook. It worked grea
t and the strut was not stressed at all. I purchased 4 HD ratcheting 12' st
raps and good thing I had them. I put a bolt through the spars at the botto
m outboard holes on each side. I used one strap per side hooking on the bol
t and the flush strapping/tie-down rail. Tightened just enough to full the
tires down about 3/4". Then I strapped the other two tie-downs to the tail
tie-down ring and out to the aft corners of the deck. Tightened up just eno
ugh to pull the tail down a couple inches and equal tension on the nose str
ut strap/winch. I then set the parking brake. I followed behind the flatbed
and the plane was rock solid to the deck all the way to the hanger partial
ly on a 2 mile pot hole filled dirt road. He made two trips. One for the pl
ane and another for the wings. It was the best $200 I ever spent renting th
at flatbed wrecker and driver IMHO.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 11:59:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar
I'm getting ready to take the fuselage to the hangar and I wanted to
check on a couple things first.
I am bit worried about the wench on the tow truck hooking to the nose
gear to get it on the truck. Not sure the weld on the front is meant to
take stresses in that direction? Is that fine or are there other options?
Anyone with a parking break, did you put fluid in the system and set the
parking break when on the truck?
I know the tilt of the truck when loading has the potential to rub the
tail when loading and unloading. I have grades at pickup and delivery
that would probably help that, but I assume you just have to be aware
and watch for that.
-Sean #40303 (last 90% to go)
===========
===========
===========
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Although I used a flatbed trailer instead of a tow truck I considered the same
issues. I decided to put a 2" nylon strap around the main gear and use that to
pull on with a winch. Also I put the fuselage on tail first
Bob Newman
N541RV
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 16, 2013, at 11:59 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to take the fuselage to the hangar and I wanted to check on
a couple things first.
>
> I am bit worried about the wench on the tow truck hooking to the nose gear to
get it on the truck. Not sure the weld on the front is meant to take stresses
in that direction? Is that fine or are there other options?
>
> Anyone with a parking break, did you put fluid in the system and set the parking
break when on the truck?
>
> I know the tilt of the truck when loading has the potential to rub the tail when
loading and unloading. I have grades at pickup and delivery that would probably
help that, but I assume you just have to be aware and watch for that.
>
> -Sean #40303 (last 90% to go)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
On 9/16/2013 11:59 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to take the fuselage to the hangar and I wanted to
> check on a couple things first.
>
> I am bit worried about the wench on the tow truck
You have wenches on your tow trucks????? Wish we had them here. All we
have is unshaven guys with pot bellies!!!!
> hooking to the nose gear to get it on the truck. Not sure the weld on
> the front is meant to take stresses in that direction? Is that fine
> or are there other options?
If you have a tow bar then use that to pull the airplane. Strap the tow
bar so it doesn't come unhooked. Barring that a strap just above the
nosewheel fork will do just fine. There really isn't much stress
pulling it up an incline.
> Anyone with a parking break, did you put fluid in the system and set
> the parking break when on the truck?
That wouldn't be a bad idea, but when it's strapped down to the bed of
the tow truck it won't (or shouldn't) go anywhere.
> I know the tilt of the truck when loading has the potential to rub the
> tail when loading and unloading. I have grades at pickup and delivery
> that would probably help that, but I assume you just have to be aware
> and watch for that.
The tow truck should have ramps (only two though) or you could borrow
.... three .... to make the angle with the ground less severe.
Take lots of pictures!!!!
Linn
>
> -Sean #40303 (last 90% to go)
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
Sean
With a small ramp, I was able to put my fuse on a flat bed by have someone push
on each side - pushing on the gear leg and wing spar. It was actually very easy.
I also had a winch on the nose gear but the load was spread evenly between
the push and pull.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2013-09-16, at 10:29 AM, Tcwtech wrote:
>
> Although I used a flatbed trailer instead of a tow truck I considered the same
issues. I decided to put a 2" nylon strap around the main gear and use that
to pull on with a winch. Also I put the fuselage on tail first
>
> Bob Newman
> N541RV
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 16, 2013, at 11:59 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm getting ready to take the fuselage to the hangar and I wanted to check on
a couple things first.
>>
>> I am bit worried about the wench on the tow truck hooking to the nose gear to
get it on the truck. Not sure the weld on the front is meant to take stresses
in that direction? Is that fine or are there other options?
>>
>> Anyone with a parking break, did you put fluid in the system and set the parking
break when on the truck?
>>
>> I know the tilt of the truck when loading has the potential to rub the tail
when loading and unloading. I have grades at pickup and delivery that would probably
help that, but I assume you just have to be aware and watch for that.
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (last 90% to go)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
Oh, And while the driver slowly winched the plane up, I had the Bogi Bar ho
oked up and helped steer the nose wheel.
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 12:23:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar
There a different sizes of flatbeds available. You want one with a roll dow
n bed and you also want one with a totally flat bed with the tie down rails
flush with the deck, not up as the wheels may not clear especially if you
have the axle extensions on for the wheel fairings. My driver arrived with
the smaller flatbed and had to go get the larger one. The deck needs to be
long and fully extended before tilting down to the ground. I had no problem
getting up and on with plenty of ground clearance at the tail. I have park
ing brakes and used them. The operator had a tow strap that we wrapped arou
nd the nose strut twice then hooked to the winch cable hook. It worked grea
t and the strut was not stressed at all. I purchased 4 HD ratcheting 12' st
raps and good thing I had them. I put a bolt through the spars at the botto
m outboard holes on each side. I used one strap per side hooking on the bol
t and the flush strapping/tie-down rail. Tightened just enough to full the
tires down about 3/4". Then I strapped the other two tie-downs to the tail
tie-down ring and out to the aft corners of the deck. Tightened up just eno
ugh to pull the tail down a couple inches and equal tension on the nose str
ut strap/winch. I then set the parking brake. I followed behind the flatbed
and the plane was rock solid to the deck all the way to the hanger partial
ly on a 2 mile pot hole filled dirt road. He made two trips. One for the pl
ane and another for the wings. It was the best $200 I ever spent renting th
at flatbed wrecker and driver IMHO.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 11:59:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar
I'm getting ready to take the fuselage to the hangar and I wanted to
check on a couple things first.
I am bit worried about the wench on the tow truck hooking to the nose
gear to get it on the truck. Not sure the weld on the front is meant to
take stresses in that direction? Is that fine or are there other options?
Anyone with a parking break, did you put fluid in the system and set the
parking break when on the truck?
I know the tilt of the truck when loading has the potential to rub the
tail when loading and unloading. I have grades at pickup and delivery
that would probably help that, but I assume you just have to be aware
and watch for that.
===
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I rented a roll down bed truck and drove it myself. Earlier I visited the rental
place with a tape measure. Only one of their trucks had a wide enough bed.
I did not have the engine on so it was easy to winch up backwards, using the tail
tie down.
I used rope to tie down the wheels, which only had an inch or so to spare from
the edge of the bed. Good thing: I also chocked the wheels but after 15 miles
of pot holed CA freeway, the chocks got lost somewhere along the way.
I also rented a pallet jack, and made a second trip for the engine (still in Lycoming
box, on a pallet), prop, and wings (still on their wing stands but lots
of rope).
I bought overpriced builder's insurance only because it covered this trip.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408690#408690
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Moved my -10 a week ago about 4 miles from rented hangar to garage, so I would
work on it more often (only been at it 9+ years, with the auto engine conversion!).
Rented a SNOW MOBILE trailer, which had a 8.5' wide x 10' long tilt-bed.
Worked great. Rear tie-down ring did drag a bit with the angle when loading, but
that's why I had it in place. Wings in a cradle on casters went on the second
trip. We hot-rodded it all of 17 mph max on paved streets, to baby my baby.
Rental cost was only $50 for the day, and I could control the whole process. Used
a ratchet pull winch for the loading and unloading, to a rope around the nose
gear. That too worked well, if slowly.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408748#408748
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
Snow Mobile trailer. Didn't think of that. There's one close by for
$60/day. Thanks.
On 9/17/13 11:22 AM, Phil White wrote:
>
> Moved my -10 a week ago about 4 miles from rented hangar to garage, so I would
work on it more often (only been at it 9+ years, with the auto engine conversion!).
Rented a SNOW MOBILE trailer, which had a 8.5' wide x 10' long tilt-bed.
> Worked great. Rear tie-down ring did drag a bit with the angle when loading,
but that's why I had it in place. Wings in a cradle on casters went on the second
trip. We hot-rodded it all of 17 mph max on paved streets, to baby my baby.
> Rental cost was only $50 for the day, and I could control the whole process.
Used a ratchet pull winch for the loading and unloading, to a rope around the
nose gear. That too worked well, if slowly.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408748#408748
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
That's what I used, too. The catch was, I have a wide trailer, I think
100" or something
near that side. Some of the older, narrower ones won't quite do it.
Tim
On 9/17/2013 1:32 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Snow Mobile trailer. Didn't think of that. There's one close by for
> $60/day. Thanks.
>
> On 9/17/13 11:22 AM, Phil White wrote:
>>
>> Moved my -10 a week ago about 4 miles from rented hangar to garage,
>> so I would work on it more often (only been at it 9+ years, with the
>> auto engine conversion!). Rented a SNOW MOBILE trailer, which had a
>> 8.5' wide x 10' long tilt-bed.
>> Worked great. Rear tie-down ring did drag a bit with the angle when
>> loading, but that's why I had it in place. Wings in a cradle on
>> casters went on the second trip. We hot-rodded it all of 17 mph max
>> on paved streets, to baby my baby.
>> Rental cost was only $50 for the day, and I could control the whole
>> process. Used a ratchet pull winch for the loading and unloading, to
>> a rope around the nose gear. That too worked well, if slowly.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408748#408748
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
As yet another method...
Sometimes you can make a narrower flatbed trailer work w/o too much effort.
I helped move Mark Cooper's RV-10 with Paul Grimstad and his flatbed trailer
that is a bit too narrow for the RV-10 wheelbase. You can see pictures of
the required lumber additions to his tilt deck flatbed to "widen" it a bit.
Worked well but did take $50 or so in boards and a screws and about 30 min
work in the Oregon rainshine that day.
Mark's blog w/photos:
http://myrv10factory.wordpress.com/2013/03/18/the-big-move/
-Ben Westfall
-----Original Message-----
That's what I used, too. The catch was, I have a wide trailer, I think
100" or something
near that side. Some of the older, narrower ones won't quite do it.
Tim
On 9/17/2013 1:32 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Snow Mobile trailer. Didn't think of that. There's one close by for
> $60/day. Thanks.
>
> On 9/17/13 11:22 AM, Phil White wrote:
>>
>> Moved my -10 a week ago about 4 miles from rented hangar to garage,
>> so I would work on it more often (only been at it 9+ years, with the
>> auto engine conversion!). Rented a SNOW MOBILE trailer, which had a
>> 8.5' wide x 10' long tilt-bed.
>> Worked great. Rear tie-down ring did drag a bit with the angle when
>> loading, but that's why I had it in place. Wings in a cradle on
>> casters went on the second trip. We hot-rodded it all of 17 mph max
>> on paved streets, to baby my baby.
>> Rental cost was only $50 for the day, and I could control the whole
>> process. Used a ratchet pull winch for the loading and unloading, to
>> a rope around the nose gear. That too worked well, if slowly.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408748#408748
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | "Jackm" <jackm(at)vinetechequipment.com> |
This is how we moved to paint shop for four hour drive. Very secure and easy to
move. This skid will be available to anyone to use after it returns back.....only
problem is it weighs half as much as complete plane.
--------
Jackm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408776#408776
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20130902_191256_258_526.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Outboard Tension Rod |
When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd
left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a
new tension rod to reduce the gap?
Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut
on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or
have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in
flight?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
Tim
On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you see
in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp
and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to reduce
the gap?
>
> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on the
6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others
found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Do you have photos on your website of this baffle securing modification please
Tim, as I'm up to this section.
Warm regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
On 22/09/2013, at 8:23, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
> the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
> finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
> metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
> I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
> has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
> So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
> into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
> baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
> is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
>
> Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
> Tim
>
> On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you see
in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp
and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to
reduce the gap?
>>
>> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on the
6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others
found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
I'm not there yet so take this with a grain of salt: (maybe not salt
.... bad for the heart) ;-)
Seeing the replies using safety wire ..... I'll use the supplied rod to
go horizontally on the lip with the safety wire looped over the rod. An
anti-chafe tube over the safety wire should clean things up a bit.
Thanks for triggering a few brain cells!
Linn
On 9/21/2013 6:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
> the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
> finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
> metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
> I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
> has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
> So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
> into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
> baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
> is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
>
> Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
> Tim
>
> On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the
>> gap you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the
>> fwd left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a
>> make a new tension rod to reduce the gap?
>>
>> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
>> nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to
>> me or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from
>> backing off in flight?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
I don't, sorry. It was something I found on a quick oil change opening
and I didn't shoot pictures...just fixed it asap.
Tim
On 9/21/2013 6:11 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> Do you have photos on your website of this baffle securing modification please
Tim, as I'm up to this section.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick Pulis
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> On 22/09/2013, at 8:23, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
>> the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
>> finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
>> metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
>> I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
>> has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
>> So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
>> into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
>> baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
>> is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
>>
>> Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
>> Tim
>>
>> On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>>> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you
see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp
and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to
reduce the gap?
>>>
>>> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on
the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others
found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>>>
>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>> 40304
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Y'all are doing it the hard way. I admit to making rods per plans, but will
replace any that don't fit right with 6X32 all thread rod available at your
favorite FAA/PMA dept of Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
The supplied rods are a real pain to run through a die to make the threads,
especially due to small size.
The all thread has it done for you and you just cut to length, where it
isn't critical because you can adjust nuts to fit.
You can then get 4 flat nuts for each rod, put one on each end inside the
baffle, install rod and put one on each outside, with washers as desired.
Then tighten the inner and outer nut against each other. I've done this and
seen it done on certified planes with good results. You can enhance by
placing sleeve of heat shrink over the rod to prevent any abrasion with
rocker drainback tubes, as well as bending for clearance. If it makes you
feel better you can use the self locking nuts on the outside. I do not like
those tiny self locking nuts.
Kelly
On Sat, Sep 21, 2013 at 7:22 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> I'm not there yet so take this with a grain of salt: (maybe not salt
> .... bad for the heart) ;-)
> Seeing the replies using safety wire ..... I'll use the supplied rod to go
> horizontally on the lip with the safety wire looped over the rod. An
> anti-chafe tube over the safety wire should clean things up a bit. Thanks
> for triggering a few brain cells!
> Linn
>
>
> On 9/21/2013 6:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
>> the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
>> finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
>> metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
>> I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
>> has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
>> So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
>> into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
>> baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
>> is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
>>
>> Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
>> Tim
>>
>> On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>>
>>> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
>>> you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left
>>> air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new
>>> tension rod to reduce the gap?
>>>
>>> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut
>>> on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have
>>> others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>>>
>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>> 40304
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
For whatever its worth on my kit the rod vans suppled was to small in diame
ter to achieve a true 6-32 .I wound up using all thread -The bends provid t
ension when the nuts are tightened.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Sep 21, 2013 4:40 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
Y'all are doing it the hard way. I admit to making rods per plans, but will
replace any that don't fit right with 6X32 all thread rod available at you
r favorite FAA/PMA dept of Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
The supplied rods are a real pain to run through a die to make the threads,
especially due to small size.
The all thread has it done for you and you just cut to length, where it isn
't critical because you can adjust nuts to fit.
You can then get 4 flat nuts for each rod, put one on each end inside the b
affle, install rod and put one on each outside, with washers as desired. Th
en tighten the inner and outer nut against each other. I've done this and s
een it done on certified planes with good results. You can enhance by placi
ng sleeve of heat shrink over the rod to prevent any abrasion with rocker d
rainback tubes, as well as bending for clearance. If it makes you feel bett
er you can use the self locking nuts on the outside. I do not like those ti
ny self locking nuts.
Kelly
On Sat, Sep 21, 2013 at 7:22 PM, Linn Walters wrote
:
I'm not there yet so take this with a grain of salt: (maybe not salt ....
bad for the heart) ;-)
Seeing the replies using safety wire ..... I'll use the supplied rod to go
horizontally on the lip with the safety wire looped over the rod. An anti-
chafe tube over the safety wire should clean things up a bit. Thanks for t
riggering a few brain cells!
Linn
On 9/21/2013 6:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
Tim
On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you
see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air
ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension
rod to reduce the gap?
Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on
the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have ot
hers found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Quite impressive how strong the prop blast is.
http://youtu.be/n6ubo04hn1A
.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408972#408972
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Okay... here's what I've come up with... a shortened tension rod and a
custom washer made from j-channel. I don't think it's possible to get
the gap any better. I'm still not happy with the lock nut resistance.
I've got that question in to Vans.. and not happy that the nut isn't
sitting flat, but that's been determined by Vans putting the hole too
close to the bend.
On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd
left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a
new tension rod to reduce the gap?
>
> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me
or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off
in flight?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Cool video. Static run-ups above 1700 rpm increase your risk of blade damage due
to gravel/sand.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409024#409024
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Agreed and I cleaned the pavement well before the run.
It was used to find a tiny oil leak which seem to require T/O power to show.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409030#409030
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I purchased new engine from Van's. I had to tighten all clamps on drainback tubes
and fix a leak at the oil cooler fittings. The leaks only showed up after flight
as wind blown oil spatter. Sometimes difficult to pinpoint. Enjoy the cool
air test flights. It is still a great performer in the summer compared to 172/182.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409038#409038
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB RV10 flying or a kit that has been started?? |
| From: | "RVNEB" <johnschwery(at)ignitesystem.com> |
Looking for a Flying RV10 or a RV10 Kit that has been started. If you have thoughts
about selling, call and we can discuss.
I am very familiar with the RV series.. I currently own a 9A and want to upgrade.
John@402_610_152FIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409062#409062
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 09/22/13 |
| From: | Fred Williams <drfred1960(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone had a failure of the red cube fuel flow transducer? I move
mine to the engine compartment down stream from the mechanical fuel pump
about 75 hrs ago. Has preformed flawlessly and no more intermittent flow
drops that possibly could be secondary to vapor problems. However, I took
a day trip to Dallas today. 90 deg F temps. The plane sat on the ramp all
day. Started right up, normal flow and pressures across the board. About
10 minutes into a 30 minute flight, the flow dropped to 1.5 gal /hr and
stayed about there. No real change with turning on the fuel pump. Fuel
pressure remained normal, recycled the electronics came back on with the
same low reading. I haven't had time to open up the cowling. Acts just
like the red cube failed. Any pointers?
Thanks
Dr Fred
515FW
575 hrs.
On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 2:02 AM, RV10-List Digest Server <
rv10-list(at)matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 13-09-22&Archive=RV10
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 13-09-22&Archive=RV10
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV10-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 09/22/13: 4
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 12:52 AM - Me vs. RV (Mike Whisky)
> 2. 12:10 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Jeff Carpenter)
> 3. 03:51 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Linn Walters)
> 4. 09:20 PM - Re: Me vs. RV (rv10flyer)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Me vs. RV
> From: "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
>
>
> Quite impressive how strong the prop blast is.
> http://youtu.be/n6ubo04hn1A
> .
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408972#408972
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
>
> Okay... here's what I've come up with... a shortened tension rod and a
> custom washer made from j-channel. I don't think it's possible to get
> the gap any better. I'm still not happy with the lock nut resistance.
> I've got that question in to Vans.. and not happy that the nut isn't
> sitting flat, but that's been determined by Vans putting the hole too
> close to the bend.
>
>
> On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> > When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
> you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd
> left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a
> new tension rod to reduce the gap?
> >
> > Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
> nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me
> or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off
> in flight?
> >
> > Jeff Carpenter
> > 40304
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Me vs. RV
> From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> Cool video. Static run-ups above 1700 rpm increase your risk of blade
> damage due
> to gravel/sand.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409024#409024
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 09/22/13 |
| From: | "PlaneAround,LLC" <strasnuts(at)gmail.com> |
I have the red cube mounted in my engine compartment too. I have 430 hours o
n mine with no trouble and within .3 gallons every time I check at fill up. I
know in the directions that came with the cube, hard mounting to the engine
can cause failure due to excessive vibration.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 23, 2013, at 16:49, Fred Williams wrote:
> Has anyone had a failure of the red cube fuel flow transducer? I move mi
ne to the engine compartment down stream from the mechanical fuel pump about
75 hrs ago. Has preformed flawlessly and no more intermittent flow drops t
hat possibly could be secondary to vapor problems. However, I took a day tr
ip to Dallas today. 90 deg F temps. The plane sat on the ramp all day. St
arted right up, normal flow and pressures across the board. About 10 minut
es into a 30 minute flight, the flow dropped to 1.5 gal /hr and stayed abou
t there. No real change with turning on the fuel pump. Fuel pressure remai
ned normal, recycled the electronics came back on with the same low reading.
I haven't had time to open up the cowling. Acts just like the red cube fa
iled. Any pointers?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dr Fred
> 515FW
> 575 hrs.
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 2:02 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>> *
>>
>> ========================
>> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>> ========================
>>
>> Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the
>> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
>> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
>> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
>> of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
>> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>>
>> HTML Version:
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=h
tml&Chapter 13-09-22&Archive=RV10
>>
>> Text Version:
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=t
xt&Chapter 13-09-22&Archive=RV10
>>
>>
>> ========================
=======================
>> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>> ========================
=======================
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> RV10-List Digest Archive
>> ---
>> Total Messages Posted Sun 09/22/13: 4
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Today's Message Index:
>> ----------------------
>>
>> 1. 12:52 AM - Me vs. RV (Mike Whisky)
>> 2. 12:10 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Jeff Carpenter)
>> 3. 03:51 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Linn Walters)
>> 4. 09:20 PM - Re: Me vs. RV (rv10flyer)
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 1 ____________________________
_________
>>
>>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Me vs. RV
>> From: "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
>>
>>
>> Quite impressive how strong the prop blast is.
>> http://youtu.be/n6ubo04hn1A
>> .
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
>> #511
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408972#408972
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 2 ____________________________
_________
>>
>>
>> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
>>
>> Okay... here's what I've come up with... a shortened tension rod and a
>> custom washer made from j-channel. I don't think it's possible to get
>> the gap any better. I'm still not happy with the lock nut resistance.
>> I've got that question in to Vans.. and not happy that the nut isn't
>> sitting flat, but that's been determined by Vans putting the hole too
>> close to the bend.
>>
>>
>> On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>>
>> > When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
>> you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd
>> left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a
>> new tension rod to reduce the gap?
>> >
>> > Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
>> nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me
>> or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off
>> in flight?
>> >
>> > Jeff Carpenter
>> > 40304
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 3 ____________________________
_________
>>
>>
>> From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 4 ____________________________
_________
>>
>>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Me vs. RV
>> From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
>>
>>
>> Cool video. Static run-ups above 1700 rpm increase your risk of blade dam
age due
>> to gravel/sand.
>>
>> --------
>> Wayne G.
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409024#409024
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 09/22/13 |
Yes. I have one on my Mooney. Several cases of the wire leads breaking,
which depending on which one gives you high or low readings or none at
all. The leads need to be well protected from flexing and vibration.
On 9/23/2013 6:49 PM, Fred Williams wrote:
> Has anyone had a failure of the red cube fuel flow transducer? I
> move mine to the engine compartment down stream from the mechanical
> fuel pump about 75 hrs ago. Has preformed flawlessly and no more
> intermittent flow drops that possibly could be secondary to vapor
> problems. However, I took a day trip to Dallas today. 90 deg F
> temps. The plane sat on the ramp all day. Started right up, normal
> flow and pressures across the board. About 10 minutes into a 30
> minute flight, the flow dropped to 1.5 gal /hr and stayed about
> there. No real change with turning on the fuel pump. Fuel pressure
> remained normal, recycled the electronics came back on with the same
> low reading. I haven't had time to open up the cowling. Acts just
> like the red cube failed. Any pointers?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dr Fred
> 515FW
> 575 hrs.
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 2:02 AM, RV10-List Digest Server
> > wrote:
>
> *
>
> ========================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ========================
>
> Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version
> of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 13-09-22&Archive=RV10
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 13-09-22&Archive=RV10
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV10-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 09/22/13: 4
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 12:52 AM - Me vs. RV (Mike Whisky)
> 2. 12:10 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Jeff Carpenter)
> 3. 03:51 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Linn Walters)
> 4. 09:20 PM - Re: Me vs. RV (rv10flyer)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Me vs. RV
> From: "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net
> >
>
>
> Quite impressive how strong the prop blast is.
> http://youtu.be/n6ubo04hn1A
> .
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408972#408972
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com
> >
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
>
> Okay... here's what I've come up with... a shortened tension rod and a
> custom washer made from j-channel. I don't think it's possible to get
> the gap any better. I'm still not happy with the lock nut resistance.
> I've got that question in to Vans.. and not happy that the nut isn't
> sitting flat, but that's been determined by Vans putting the hole too
> close to the bend.
>
>
> On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> > When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get
> the gap
> you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd
> left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a
> make a
> new tension rod to reduce the gap?
> >
> > Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
> nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar
> to me
> or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from
> backing off
> in flight?
> >
> > Jeff Carpenter
> > 40304
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
> >
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Me vs. RV
> From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com
> >
>
>
> Cool video. Static run-ups above 1700 rpm increase your risk of
> blade damage due
> to gravel/sand.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409024#409024
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 09/22/13 |
I had one fail. It looked fine, no rhyme or reason. EI replaced it with
an updated version N/C.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
... just to report on the feedback from Joe at Vans:
He said that the curved portion of the air ramps should be pulled in as close to
the fins as possible, but suggested a bead of red RTV near the flange to keep
them from actually touching. If they touch, the fins will eventually wear through
the baffle.
He offered that safety wire could be used instead of the rods, but that some kind
of steel around the flange of the baffle would be necessary to keep the wire
from cutting through the baffle at the hole.
Two nuts or loctite is what I need to use as the lock nuts don't seem to be "locking"
On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you see
in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp
and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to reduce
the gap?
>
> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on the
6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others
found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
What is the purpose of the tension rods, is it to pull the baffling close
to the cylinders, or is it to hold the baffling in place as air moves
around the engine.
I ask because I made the rods per the plans and they do not seem to pull
the baffling close to the cylinders at all and I am not sure if they are to
long, or if that is the expected behavior.
thanks,
John
40923
On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 8:00 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> ... just to report on the feedback from Joe at Vans:
>
> He said that the curved portion of the air ramps should be pulled in as
> close to the fins as possible, but suggested a bead of red RTV near the
> flange to keep them from actually touching. If they touch, the fins will
> eventually wear through the baffle.
>
> He offered that safety wire could be used instead of the rods, but that
> some kind of steel around the flange of the baffle would be necessary to
> keep the wire from cutting through the baffle at the hole.
>
> Two nuts or loctite is what I need to use as the lock nuts don't seem to
> be "locking"
>
>
> On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> > When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
> you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left
> air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new
> tension rod to reduce the gap?
> >
> > Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut
> on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have
> others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
> >
> > Jeff Carpenter
> > 40304
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
They are supposed to do both. You need to get most of the air to exit where
the openings are, centered on each cylinder. Think what will happen with
the baffles with no rods and 200 mph air flowing past them. You want an
even gap, about 1/8" between cylinders and the baffle, which should not be
wider at the bottom.
Makes me wonder if some of the folks reporting high CHTs have baffles
pulled snug like they should be.
On Wed, Sep 25, 2013 at 6:42 AM, John Trollinger wrote:
> What is the purpose of the tension rods, is it to pull the baffling close
> to the cylinders, or is it to hold the baffling in place as air moves
> around the engine.
>
> I ask because I made the rods per the plans and they do not seem to pull
> the baffling close to the cylinders at all and I am not sure if they are to
> long, or if that is the expected behavior.
>
> thanks,
>
> John
> 40923
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 8:00 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
>>
>> ... just to report on the feedback from Joe at Vans:
>>
>> He said that the curved portion of the air ramps should be pulled in as
>> close to the fins as possible, but suggested a bead of red RTV near the
>> flange to keep them from actually touching. If they touch, the fins will
>> eventually wear through the baffle.
>>
>> He offered that safety wire could be used instead of the rods, but that
>> some kind of steel around the flange of the baffle would be necessary to
>> keep the wire from cutting through the baffle at the hole.
>>
>> Two nuts or loctite is what I need to use as the lock nuts don't seem to
>> be "locking"
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Let me tell you from experience, (Eci cylinders) you want to assure
there is no where for the air to go than through the cylinders. I recall
the tension rods were an issue for me as well. I have RTV on both sides
(inside and outside of baffles), but I also have a good fit with front
and back tight enough that it will hold solid and not work itself loose.
From: John Trollinger
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2013 3:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
What is the purpose of the tension rods, is it to pull the baffling
close to the cylinders, or is it to hold the baffling in place as air
moves around the engine.
I ask because I made the rods per the plans and they do not seem to pull
the baffling close to the cylinders at all and I am not sure if they are
to long, or if that is the expected behavior.
thanks,
John
40923
On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 8:00 PM, Jeff Carpenter
wrote:
... just to report on the feedback from Joe at Vans:
He said that the curved portion of the air ramps should be pulled in
as close to the fins as possible, but suggested a bead of red RTV near
the flange to keep them from actually touching. If they touch, the fins
will eventually wear through the baffle.
He offered that safety wire could be used instead of the rods, but
that some kind of steel around the flange of the baffle would be
necessary to keep the wire from cutting through the baffle at the hole.
Two nuts or loctite is what I need to use as the lock nuts don't seem
to be "locking"
On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the
gap you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the
fwd left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a
make a new tension rod to reduce the gap?
>
> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me
or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off
in flight?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260 RPM which
seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is only 20 RPM.
I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this due to the higher
RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the timing of the mag. What
are others seeing with the same setup?
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
I think you'll see a little of everything in replies. On mine, I've
seen maybe 20-40rpm,
but I've been in other fine working RV-10's that drop 200+ So I'm not
sure why
the difference, but certainly you will find variation.
On 9/25/2013 1:50 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260 RPM
which seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is only 20
RPM. I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this due to the higher
RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the timing of the mag. What
are others seeing with the same setup?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
I have seen mine different after I adjust the idle mixture...
-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Whisky <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
>Sent: Sep 25, 2013 2:50 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III
>
>
>Hi,
>
>on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260 RPM
which seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is only 20 RPM.
I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this due to the higher
RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the timing of the mag. What
are others seeing with the same setup?
>
>Thanks
>Mike
>
>--------
>RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
>#511
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You make a good point. Idle mixture should be set so that rpm rise when
pulled to idle cut off is between 25 and 50 rpm, no more. If you see no
rise, it is too lean, if more than 50 it is too rich.
If the drop on mag check is smooth, no roughness, then mag is fine, and
whether the number is 50 or 200 doesn't really matter. OTOH, if rough, you
need to find the cause. Usually fouled plug, but can be mag itself.
Best is to check mags at altitude, at the end of your cruise, when you are
ready to start down. Just don't turn mag back on if it quits without it.
Retard mixture and throttle before turning mag back on to avoid possibility
of backfire and damage it can cause. That is why you want to do the check
with plenty of altitude, so there is no rush to relight fire if it quits.
On Wed, Sep 25, 2013 at 3:24 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> I have seen mine different after I adjust the idle mixture...
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Mike Whisky <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
> >Sent: Sep 25, 2013 2:50 PM
> >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV10-List: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III
> >
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260
> RPM which seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is
> only 20 RPM. I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this
> due to the higher RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the
> timing of the mag. What are others seeing with the same setup?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Mike
> >
> >--------
> >RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> >#511
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Read this topic online here:
> >
> >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
| From: | Aaron <aarongleixner(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Your numbers sound really close to mine. I had the difference from day 1 with
new mag and annual timing checks indicate the mag timing is correct. Its been
325 hours with no issue. I would verify the engine does not run really rough
on 1 mag, and monitor over time to assure the drop doesn't get larger. I always
figured the EI was either a hotter spark driving more of the combustion, or
timed slightly earlier.
Aaron
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 25, 2013, at 2:50 PM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260 RPM
which seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is only 20
RPM. I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this due to the higher
RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the timing of the mag. What
are others seeing with the same setup?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
I'm putting a GoPro camera on my wing and need to make a shim to compensate
for the wing dihedral so that the camera sits level. Does anyone know how
many degrees it is?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dihedral |
| From: | "PlaneAround,LLC" <strasnuts(at)gmail.com> |
Albert if you bought a mount from planearound I'll be adding a swivel soon s
o you can compensate for dihedral. I'll add a little on the price of new one
s and help a little for others who have already purchased the wing mounts.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 25, 2013, at 17:38, "Albert Gardner" wrote:
> I=99m putting a GoPro camera on my wing and need to make a shim to c
ompensate for the wing dihedral so that the camera sits level. Does anyone k
now how many degrees it is?
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
| From: | "PlaneAround,LLC" <strasnuts(at)gmail.com> |
As a point of reference mine shows 20 when on the plasma III and 150-170 when on
the mag. Mine is lean when testing mags on the ground. I believe it was pelican
perch that stated testing mags LOP in cruise is the best way to see problems
from the mag. I always test mine on run-up.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 25, 2013, at 16:15, Aaron wrote:
>
> Your numbers sound really close to mine. I had the difference from day 1 with
new mag and annual timing checks indicate the mag timing is correct. Its been
325 hours with no issue. I would verify the engine does not run really rough
on 1 mag, and monitor over time to assure the drop doesn't get larger. I always
figured the EI was either a hotter spark driving more of the combustion,
or timed slightly earlier.
>
> Aaron
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Sep 25, 2013, at 2:50 PM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260 RPM
which seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is only 20
RPM. I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this due to the higher
RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the timing of the mag.
What are others seeing with the same setup?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
...And the Lycoming operators manual states:
A smooth drop-off past normal specification of 175 RPM is usually a sign of
a too lean or too rich mixture.
(3) If RPM drop exceeds 175 RPM slowly lean mixture until RPM peaks. Then
retard the throttle to the RPM specified (50-65%) for the magneto check and
repeat check. (Paraphrasing now) If the drop off does not exceed 175 RPM and
50 RPM difference with smooth running continue on.
-Chris
N919AR
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2013 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III
You make a good point. Idle mixture should be set so that rpm rise when
pulled to idle cut off is between 25 and 50 rpm, no more. If you see no
rise, it is too lean, if more than 50 it is too rich.
If the drop on mag check is smooth, no roughness, then mag is fine, and
whether the number is 50 or 200 doesn't really matter. OTOH, if rough, you
need to find the cause. Usually fouled plug, but can be mag itself.
Best is to check mags at altitude, at the end of your cruise, when you are
ready to start down. Just don't turn mag back on if it quits without it.
Retard mixture and throttle before turning mag back on to avoid possibility
of backfire and damage it can cause. That is why you want to do the check
with plenty of altitude, so there is no rush to relight fire if it quits.
On Wed, Sep 25, 2013 at 3:24 PM, Ralph E. Capen
wrote:
I have seen mine different after I adjust the idle mixture...
-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Whisky <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
>Sent: Sep 25, 2013 2:50 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III
>
>
>Hi,
>
>on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260
RPM which seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is
only 20 RPM. I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this due
to the higher RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the timing of
the mag. What are others seeing with the same setup?
>
>Thanks
>Mike
>
>--------
>RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
>#511
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
>
>
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com> |
Hi Mike
I have seen similar numbers to yours on hot and humid days. I have since started
doing the mag check leaned a bit and it has not exceeded 200 rpm drop on the
hottest days. On cool days the drop is under 100rpm. No engine roughness during
mag check or flight.
Niko
Nikolaos Napoli
> On Sep 25, 2013, at 2:50 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260 RPM
which seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is only 20
RPM. I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this due to the higher
RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the timing of the mag. What
are others seeing with the same setup?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
I'm guessing that you're set up a little too rich. All other parameters
being the same.
Having said that, being able to read a digital RPM Vs. an analog gauge
may account for some of the disparity.
Linn
On 9/25/2013 9:44 PM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
>
> Hi Mike
>
> I have seen similar numbers to yours on hot and humid days. I have since started
doing the mag check leaned a bit and it has not exceeded 200 rpm drop on
the hottest days. On cool days the drop is under 100rpm. No engine roughness
during mag check or flight.
>
> Niko
>
> Nikolaos Napoli
>
>> On Sep 25, 2013, at 2:50 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> on todays runup I saw that the RMP drop for the mag (EI off) is about 260 RPM
which seems to be quite a lot to me, the drop on the EI (mag off) is only 20
RPM. I am used to see only 100 RPM in the planes I flew. Is this due to the higher
RPM that the EI delivers or do I need to look at the timing of the mag.
What are others seeing with the same setup?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409210#409210
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Dear all,
as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
Its 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
Awesome! Finally, at the very end ..... the RV grin!!!!
Now, back to work for me!
Linn
On 9/26/2013 8:47 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Dear all,
>
> as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
> Its 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
> Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
> And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
>
> http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
>
> Regards
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thank you all,
I'll try to lean next time and verify idle mixture once more.
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409283#409283
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MTBehnke" <mtbehnke2(at)msn.com> |
I'm working on joining the forward and center fuselage sections. When I bolted
the two spar sections together with the (13) .125" and (1) .063" spacer, I'm
finding the gap between the spars is around 1.72"-1.73" at each side and top and
bottom, compared to the 1.6875" thickness of the wing spars.
If I measure each of the spacers, the actual thickness of the .125" spacers varies
from .1264" to .1269", and the .063" ones are a little thicker as well. These
cumulative variations in thickness result in the gap for the wing spars being
wider than the spar itself by around .030 to 0.40". I also noticed that
the rivet holes in the bottom of the spar carry-thru sections and the skins is
slightly off due to this same issue.
I'm thinking of skipping the included spacers and making my own out of plywood.
Did any other slow-builders run into spacing issues with their spars?
Thanks,
--------
Mike Behnke
RV-9A Flying
RV-10 Fuselage
Andover, MN
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409292#409292
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spar Spacers |
I don't recall having any problems with the spacers.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 26, 2013, at 1:21 PM, "MTBehnke" wrote:
I'm working on joining the forward and center fuselage sections. When I bolted
the two spar sections together with the (13) .125" and (1) .063" spacer, I'm
finding the gap between the spars is around 1.72"-1.73" at each side and top and
bottom, compared to the 1.6875" thickness of the wing spars.
If I measure each of the spacers, the actual thickness of the .125" spacers varies
from .1264" to .1269", and the .063" ones are a little thicker as well. These
cumulative variations in thickness result in the gap for the wing spars being
wider than the spar itself by around .030 to 0.40". I also noticed that
the rivet holes in the bottom of the spar carry-thru sections and the skins is
slightly off due to this same issue.
I'm thinking of skipping the included spacers and making my own out of plywood.
Did any other slow-builders run into spacing issues with their spars?
Thanks,
--------
Mike Behnke
RV-9A Flying
RV-10 Fuselage
Andover, MN
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409292#409292
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
The only thing I had to do was deburr the edges of the spacers, otherwise
they did not stack together well.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spar Spacers
I don't recall having any problems with the spacers.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 26, 2013, at 1:21 PM, "MTBehnke" wrote:
I'm working on joining the forward and center fuselage sections. When I
bolted the two spar sections together with the (13) .125" and (1) .063"
spacer, I'm finding the gap between the spars is around 1.72"-1.73" at each
side and top and bottom, compared to the 1.6875" thickness of the wing
spars.
If I measure each of the spacers, the actual thickness of the .125" spacers
varies from .1264" to .1269", and the .063" ones are a little thicker as
well. These cumulative variations in thickness result in the gap for the
wing spars being wider than the spar itself by around .030 to 0.40". I also
noticed that the rivet holes in the bottom of the spar carry-thru sections
and the skins is slightly off due to this same issue.
I'm thinking of skipping the included spacers and making my own out of
plywood. Did any other slow-builders run into spacing issues with their
spars?
Thanks,
--------
Mike Behnke
RV-9A Flying
RV-10 Fuselage
Andover, MN
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409292#409292
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Spar Spacers |
Make sure your spacers are burr free and clamp them up. Everything will line up
just as they should provided you use the correct spacers supplied by Vans.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MTBehnke" <mtbehnke2(at)msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 1:21:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Spar Spacers
I'm working on joining the forward and center fuselage sections. When I bolted
the two spar sections together with the (13) .125" and (1) .063" spacer, I'm finding
the gap between the spars is around 1.72"-1.73" at each side and top and
bottom, compared to the 1.6875" thickness of the wing spars.
If I measure each of the spacers, the actual thickness of the .125" spacers varies
from .1264" to .1269", and the .063" ones are a little thicker as well. These
cumulative variations in thickness result in the gap for the wing spars being
wider than the spar itself by around .030 to 0.40". I also noticed that the
rivet holes in the bottom of the spar carry-thru sections and the skins is slightly
off due to this same issue.
I'm thinking of skipping the included spacers and making my own out of plywood.
Did any other slow-builders run into spacing issues with their spars?
Thanks,
--------
Mike Behnke
RV-9A Flying
RV-10 Fuselage
Andover, MN
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409292#409292
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Darn it Mike
YouTube have blocked your video here in Australia due to copyright laws.
God bless them. Bugger.
Warm regards
Patrick
On 26/09/2013, at 22:47, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
> Dear all,
>
> as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
> Its 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
> Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
> And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
>
> http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
>
> Regards
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
| From: | efdsteve(at)aol.com |
Congrats, Michael!
Looking at your video, I'm wondering if your back windows can be
opened? Is that a latch I see at the aft side of the back window?
Steve Weinstock
40230
90% - 90%
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Whisky <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2013 07:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online
Dear all,
as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
Its 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
congrats and very beautiful 10s I have ever seen.!
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online
> From: rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au
> Date: Fri=2C 27 Sep 2013 12:28:22 +1000
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> Darn it Mike
>
> YouTube have blocked your video here in Australia due to copyright laws.
>
> God bless them. Bugger.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
> On 26/09/2013=2C at 22:47=2C "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
> >
> > Dear all=2C
> >
> > as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
> > It=B4s 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
> > Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
> > And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
> >
> > http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
> >
> > Regards
> > Michael
> >
> > --------
> > RV-10 builder (flying=2C test phase)
> > #511
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
| From: | bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
That was wonderful! My wife and I watched it to the very end - glued to
every detail. Wonderful music! Excellent editing. Oh! And as for the
plane... Well done!
Bruce Breckenridge, Oregon USA
40018 Stasis (scratch building a Christavia!)
On Thu, Sep 26, 2013 at 5:47 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Dear all,
>
> as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
> It=B4s 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
> Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
> And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
>
> http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
>
> Regards
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Darn it Mike
>
> YouTube have blocked your video here in Australia due to copyright laws.
>
> God bless them. Bugger.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
> On 26/09/2013, at 22:47, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> > Dear all,
> >
> > as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
> > Its 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
> > Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
> > And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
> >
> > http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
> >
> > Regards
> > Michael
> >
> > --------
> > RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> > #511
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Pat,
> >
> > I learned that it cannot be viewed from mobile devices so you might try from
a computer.
> > Hope it works if not I'll put it on my website bat its huge 1.8 GB to be downloaded.
> > Cheers
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409327#409327
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
efdsteve(at)aol.com wrote:
> Congrats, Michael!
>
> Looking at your video, I'm wondering if your back windows can be
> opened? Is that a latch I see at the aft side of the back window?
>
> Steve Weinstock
> 40230
> 90% - 90%
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
> --
Steve,
its only the attachment strap for a gps mouse for my iPad. I wanted to record
my flight track in case my AF-4500 would not have worked. But all worked well.
Regards
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409328#409328
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spar Spacers |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I ran mine through a belt sander, removing the deformation from machine punching,
left .003" clearance and built on. I also used two factory bolts on each side
for alignment after greasing them. Hardware bolts leave too much clearance,
so just used them to pull everything together tight.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409351#409351
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RPM drop Mag and EI LS Plasma III |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Van's engine, two mags, 200+ drop if I don't lean. I always lean from startup until
takeoff about 3/4"-1" out, through run up too.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409352#409352
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dihedral |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I think I measured it at 3.5 degrees.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409356#409356
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
Thank you Michael...
I'm not to far behind you, so I allowed myself to feel some of your joy.
Now off to finish this thing up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304 (coming up on 9 years)
On Sep 26, 2013, at 5:47 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Dear all,
>
> as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
> Its 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
> Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
> And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
>
> http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
>
> Regards
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
I wonder if I could talk Alex & Fabian to shoot my first flight? Although I'm
not sure I can afford the travel expense.
> On Sep 26, 2013, at 5:47 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
>
> Dear all,
>
> as promised I put HB-YNN first flight video online.
> Its 18 min and HD so turn up the sound sit back and enjoy.
> Hope that is a motivation boost for those pounding rivets.
> And thanks to all listers for your input and prompt answers!
>
> http://youtu.be/X7EQ81C3xSA
>
> Regards
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409264#409264
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N312F Bird Strike |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
N312F had an encounter with a vulture today. The pilot flew some 30 miles
back to Lexington Airport and landed safely. Only one person on board.
The bird did not survive the encounter with either the windshield or the
rear bulkhead. The pilot had minor injuries but was able return and land
safely.
The entire front windshield is shattered. The bird went down the top
center of the cabin and impacted the top rear baggage bulkhead at a high
rate of speed.
N312F is down for repairs.
Jim C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N312F Bird Strike |
Wow, that's amazing. Were you flying? Glad everyone is OK.
Did the bird break the door strut? Man, that's close.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
> N312F had an encounter with a vulture today. The pilot flew some 30 miles
> back to Lexington Airport and landed safely. Only one person on board.
> The bird did not survive the encounter with either the windshield or the
> rear bulkhead. The pilot had minor injuries but was able return and land
> safely.
>
> The entire front windshield is shattered. The bird went down the top
> center of the cabin and impacted the top rear baggage bulkhead at a high
> rate of speed.
>
> N312F is down for repairs.
>
> Jim C
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N312F Bird Strike |
| From: | "PlaneAround,LLC" <strasnuts(at)gmail.com> |
Wow. Love our rv-10 center posts. Glad he could return.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 28, 2013, at 15:19, Jim Combs wrote:
> N312F had an encounter with a vulture today. The pilot flew some 30 miles back
to Lexington Airport and landed safely. Only one person on board. The bird
did not survive the encounter with either the windshield or the rear bulkhead.
The pilot had minor injuries but was able return and land safely.
>
> The entire front windshield is shattered. The bird went down the top center
of the cabin and impacted the top rear baggage bulkhead at a high rate of speed.
>
> N312F is down for repairs.
>
> Jim C
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N312F Bird Strike |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Our fleet of airliners gets its share of bird strikes and lightning
strikes. Not a repair skill you want to rely on. Glad no injuries.
We went with a Pulselight module on the landing lights. The company joke
is they only work HEAD ON. If you are overtaking the bird while descending
to landing, the poor bird has poor peripheral vision and suffers. We have
encountered bent wing spars, Incapacitated crewmember from temporary
blindness and lots of damage. Will gladly share pictures and
recommendation on what can be done to improve survivability.
John Cox, 40600
On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 5:12 PM, PlaneAround,LLC wrote:
>
> Wow. Love our rv-10 center posts. Glad he could return.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 28, 2013, at 15:19, Jim Combs wrote:
>
> > N312F had an encounter with a vulture today. The pilot flew some 30
> miles back to Lexington Airport and landed safely. Only one person on
> board. The bird did not survive the encounter with either the windshield
> or the rear bulkhead. The pilot had minor injuries but was able return and
> land safely.
> >
> > The entire front windshield is shattered. The bird went down the top
> center of the cabin and impacted the top rear baggage bulkhead at a high
> rate of speed.
> >
> > N312F is down for repairs.
> >
> > Jim C
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video HB-YNN now online |
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
>
Hey, thanks for sharing your video Michael - very exciting, fun, and a beautiful
plane!
You did good! Showed it to my wife and daughter - they really enjoyed it to.
We are in the finish up stage with ours so you got me quickly back to work!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N312F Bird Strike |
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
Wow, BIG BIRD! How about, "an almost frozen turkey"! Compliments to the pilot,
if that was you, Jim, for maintaining composure and getting her down safely.
I feel for you having to do another windshield and paint.
Man, that thing even bent the center post. Did the pilot get his/her headset and
glasses knocked off too? Hopefully not too many war wounds for the pilot???
Rich Hansen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N312F Bird Strike |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
What altitude was the plane at?
Did the pilot have a chance to duck?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409458#409458
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N312F Bird Strike |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I am glad pilot and plane made it back safely. It looks like it took out left door
strut too...right above pilot's head. Wow! Was pilot wearing glasses? What
airspeed and altitude?
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409472#409472
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | "schmoboy" <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
Well it made it safely to its new home. Thanks for all the suggestions. Found
a company with a slide down tilt bed so had no issues with the tail dragging.
I put bolts through the spars to be used as strap downs. And no... driver
was not a wench. [Laughing]
Funny thing is that I seem to have separation anxiety this afternoon. The baby
is no longer a few steps away out in the garage, but a half hour drive.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409506#409506
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/finishkit_2013_09_30_11_10_24_img_1505_seanstephens2013_808.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/finishkit_2013_09_30_10_40_21_img_0250_seanstephens2013_131.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/finishkit_2013_09_30_10_25_39_img_0249_seanstephens2013_160.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Okay... so here's what I finally wound up with. I feel like this will
wear well. Time will tell.
Had I started with this approach I'd probably be finishing up the
exhaust system by now... oh well.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd
left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a
new tension rod to reduce the gap?
>
> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me
or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off
in flight?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Great photos. I just got through doing the same thing the same way. I
used 1/8" brazing rod spanning the whole 'lip'. Red RTV will keep
things from moving around. I don't think I spent 1/2 hour doing both
sides. I only have a few issues to check off and the engine is ready to
run. The rest of the airplane, however, .......
Linn
Oh yeah .... I still have the exhaust to do too.
Okay... so here's what I finally wound up with. I feel like this will wear well.
Time will tell.
Had I started with this approach I'd probably be finishing up the exhaust system
by now... oh well.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Nice Jeff, is that aluminum rod or stainless?
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Mon, Sep 30, 2013 at 8:03 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> Okay... so here's what I finally wound up with. I feel like this will wear
> well. Time will tell.
>
> Had I started with this approach I'd probably be finishing up the exhaust
> system by now... oh well.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> > When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
> you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left
> air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new
> tension rod to reduce the gap?
> >
> > Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut
> on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have
> others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
> >
> > Jeff Carpenter
> > 40304
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
That's the stainless rod that was furnished to make the tension rods
with. You can see in one of the pictures that I ground a "dog bone"
style groove in the center of the rods for the wire to nest in. That
should keep the rods from working their way out.
On Sep 30, 2013, at 7:24 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Nice Jeff, is that aluminum rod or stainless?
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 30, 2013 at 8:03 PM, Jeff Carpenter
wrote:
> Okay... so here's what I finally wound up with. I feel like this will
wear well. Time will tell.
>
> Had I started with this approach I'd probably be finishing up the
exhaust system by now... oh well.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 21, 2013, at 3:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> > When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the
gap you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the
fwd left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a
make a new tension rod to reduce the gap?
> >
> > Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me
or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off
in flight?
> >
> > Jeff Carpenter
> > 40304
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Has anyone applied Jetflex over either NAPA 7220 primer or the Vans wash primer?
Problems???
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409607#409607
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jetflex paint |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Bob,
I painted my interior with JetFlex, over Van's wash primer. Asked a Sherwin Williams
tech and said it was ok to do it. Not flying yet, but it's been painted
for a couple of years and it seems solid.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409640#409640
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Instructions tell me to rivet top tailcone skin when riveting cabin cover. I see
no reason not to leave it off until things get completed behind baggage bulkhead.
I always thought though that I would be bucking rivets when attaching
cabin cover but it calls for cs4-4 rivets. I was thinking an426s since there
is a backing plate. Has anyone done this or not a good idea with the fiberglass?
Isn't this how the cowl hinges are attached?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409675#409675
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
Cowl hinge rivets are squeezed ... for the tailcone attach, they need to
be shot/bucked. Much bigger chance for cracking the fiberglass due to
slippage and overpressure.
> I always thought though that I would be bucking rivets when attaching
> cabin cover but it calls for cs4-4 rivets. I was thinking an426s
> since there is a backing plate. Has anyone done this or not a good
> idea with the fiberglass? Isn't this how the cowl hinges are
> attached?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
Yep - don't final rivet until you really need to for door fit, window
install and finishing. Just before final install of the top is a good time
to finish the cabin top inside (paint or glue in your headliner) and final
paint the interior.
The CS4-4 rivets work just fine. After installing the cabin top recommend a
light micro balloon fill over the cabin to tail cone seam, sand, then a
couple of bids of med-light glass over the now filled and sanded seam.
After that a thin coat of balloons over the glass to fill in the weave, sand
and prep for paint. Do the same over the window/cabin top seams. Don't
just fill in with micro as you may get cracks in your paint right over the
window to cabin top seam.
Do the same on the cowl where you have rivets in fiberglass. This mitigates
rivet heads popping out just enough to ruin the nice finish paint job.
Carl
RV-8A (sold)
RV-10 (140 hrs)
RV-8 (start next summer)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 10:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed
Instructions tell me to rivet top tailcone skin when riveting cabin cover.
I see no reason not to leave it off until things get completed behind
baggage bulkhead. I always thought though that I would be bucking rivets
when attaching cabin cover but it calls for cs4-4 rivets. I was thinking
an426s since there is a backing plate. Has anyone done this or not a good
idea with the fiberglass? Isn't this how the cowl hinges are attached?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409675#409675
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
Follow the instructions. It all works just fine. No reason to anything differently
on this part of the build
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 2, 2013, at 10:15 AM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
> Instructions tell me to rivet top tailcone skin when riveting cabin cover. I
see no reason not to leave it off until things get completed behind baggage bulkhead.
I always thought though that I would be bucking rivets when attaching
cabin cover but it calls for cs4-4 rivets. I was thinking an426s since there
is a backing plate. Has anyone done this or not a good idea with the fiberglass?
Isn't this how the cowl hinges are attached?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409675#409675
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
I tested today my no power stall speeds at gross 2700 lbs and cg 113.8 in
She stalled clean at 73 KIAS which is about 13 kt more than expected.
I just want to confirm that the 60 KIAS are achieved with reflex flap (-3) and
not with 0 flaps? Controls were at the stop and buffeting started at 75-76 KIAS
Regards
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409702#409702
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
When I tested, I settled on 49 KIAS for landing (full flaps) and 59 KIAS
clean (-3 degrees). I do not remember my AFT CG numbers being that much
different.....surely not 13 knots. I tested outside the aft envelop, but I
cannot remember by how much.
When I tested my airspeed indicator, I think I was only a couple of knots
off at 170 or so knots.
73 seems real fast......
Have you flown some GPS boxes, or triangles, to check you airspeed
indicator? Have you tested your static system?
Good luck, if you really are at 73 knots, your landings must be real
long.......
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Whisky
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 1:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds
Hi,
I tested today my no power stall speeds at gross 2700 lbs and cg 113.8 in
She stalled clean at 73 KIAS which is about 13 kt more than expected.
I just want to confirm that the 60 KIAS are achieved with reflex flap (-3)
and not with 0 flaps? Controls were at the stop and buffeting started at
75-76 KIAS Regards Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409702#409702
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
That does sound a little high. My testing came in at 64 KIAS, flaps in reflex (full
up). Remember that IAS typically is lower than CAS at high (stall) angle
of attack due to the pitot tube not being straight on. I cannot vouch for the
accuracy of my airspeed at these low numbers. I do know that at cruise speeds
they are within a knot or two of correct.
OTOH I do not know where your ideal of 60 kias came from. Van's claims gross weight
stall at 55 KIAS with full flaps.
Have you verified your airspeed readings? It's surprisingly easy for them to be
off if your static port is not reading true static pressure. My guess is that
it is much easier to have your IAS off than to have the stall speeds, which are
fixed by the structure, off. Unless of course your scales were off and you
are much heavier than you believe, which seems unlikely.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409706#409706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
Before you do that, have you done the 3 way or 4 way GPS airspeed
calibration
to verify your airspeed is correct? It would be very hard for a plane
to be that
far out of norm with other RV-10's, so there is likely some pitot-static
error
or something else that is causing the number to be high. Also, you
talk about full stop and buffeting, but not if you were actually into
the stall.
The 60-62kt numbers you see are probably at full stall, past just the
buffeting.
Tim
On 10/2/2013 2:05 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I tested today my no power stall speeds at gross 2700 lbs and cg 113.8 in
> She stalled clean at 73 KIAS which is about 13 kt more than expected.
> I just want to confirm that the 60 KIAS are achieved with reflex flap (-3) and
not with 0 flaps? Controls were at the stop and buffeting started at 75-76 KIAS
> Regards
> Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
I used the CS4-4, was far easier than trying to rivet it with an426. Thus
far no cracks and the cabin cover hasn't fallen off yet!
Dont over engineer this. pop rivet it and throw a layer of resin and micro
over it if you want to make it look nice.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: rvdave
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 7:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed
Instructions tell me to rivet top tailcone skin when riveting cabin cover.
I see no reason not to leave it off until things get completed behind
baggage bulkhead. I always thought though that I would be bucking rivets
when attaching cabin cover but it calls for cs4-4 rivets. I was thinking
an426s since there is a backing plate. Has anyone done this or not a good
idea with the fiberglass? Isn't this how the cowl hinges are attached?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409675#409675
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks for the answers. I am was referring to clean stall speed, I might not have
reached a full stall and was probably in caught buffeting down.
@Tim I did my airspeed calibration runs and the were within limits. However from
an engineering point of view that is the only possible error source as the wing
is the same as anyone else's. I guess I will redo my airspeed calibration
run tomorrow.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409708#409708
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
Some thoughts:
- The plane is very different at gross, so a stall higher than the typical
60 knots would be expected.
- 13 knots higher however is more than I ever got during weight testing.
- If you assume airspeed is off but airspeed calibration in level flight is
good, then I'd look at the static system for the error. Perhaps you are
creating a low pressure area near your static ports during the stall.
If everything else checks out, perhaps you can try stall with the static
line temporarily disconnected (as in you are using the inside of the plane
for static pressure) as a test.
On the RV-8A I originally had a dual pitot/static tube. At high angles of
attack the static port started to get ram air. The result was opposite of
yours - I was at '0' airspeed and still flying. I later moved the ports to
the traditional position but again encounter an error that demonstrated
itself as higher than actual airspeed indication and an altitude error. I
now use a couple of 3/16" round head rivets with a 1/16" hole drilled in the
center for the static ports. Simple install and no error.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Whisky
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 3:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds
Hi,
I tested today my no power stall speeds at gross 2700 lbs and cg 113.8 in
She stalled clean at 73 KIAS which is about 13 kt more than expected.
I just want to confirm that the 60 KIAS are achieved with reflex flap (-3)
and not with 0 flaps? Controls were at the stop and buffeting started at
75-76 KIAS Regards Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409702#409702
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Your full flap number seems about right.
The flaps are very effective but I do not think they reduce the stall speed by
73-56=17 kts. Note that this would mean that the flaps increased the overall lift
coeficient by nearly 70%!
Here's an easy test: I think your efis will calculate a headwind or tailwind component
for you. At an altitude high enough that the wind stays constant, hold
altitude and heading, and start at the airspeed where you previously checked
it. Note headwind component. Smoothly slow to 70 kias, see if headwind component
changes as you near 73 kias. If so there's an airspeed calibration problem,
likely the static port.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409717#409717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Does anyone know the speed difference between start of buffet to actual
stall break?
On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 12:56 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Thanks for the answers. I am was referring to clean stall speed, I might
> not have reached a full stall and was probably in caught buffeting down.
> @Tim I did my airspeed calibration runs and the were within limits.
> However from an engineering point of view that is the only possible error
> source as the wing is the same as anyone else's. I guess I will redo my
> airspeed calibration run tomorrow.
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409708#409708
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Ok thanks just making sure I'm not missing something. I have the cabin top painted
interior wise and am now ready to commit to fastening it.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409734#409734
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If you want, some folks have squeezed solid rivets under back windows as
far as squeezer yoke would reach.
On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 7:19 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
> Ok thanks just making sure I'm not missing something. I have the cabin
> top painted interior wise and am now ready to commit to fastening it.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409734#409734
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Mike Whisky wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I tested today my no power stall speeds at gross 2700 lbs and cg 113.8 in
> She stalled clean at 73 KIAS which is about 13 kt more than expected.
> I just want to confirm that the 60 KIAS are achieved with reflex flap (-3) and
not with 0 flaps? Controls were at the stop and buffeting started at 75-76 KIAS
> Regards
> Mike
Up high, no power...mine stalls at 54 kias full gross, full flaps, near aft cg
limit with family and baggage. It stalls at 64 kias with flaps set to reflex.
With full flaps there is very little tail shake before stalling due to increased
wing downwash. With no flaps, I have to hold stick full aft with "rocking horse"
motion as tail gets into wing wake/downwash. Difficult to get into a deep
stall with no flaps.
Flying solo, cg about 3/4" aft of fwd limit and full fuel, these numbers drop about
6 kias.
On landing, at stall 1' or less AGL, my IAS is about 8 kts higher. Of course I
don't pay any attention to ASI once below 10'-15' or so.
During stall practice my ailerons still have a little effectiveness, but I always
raise the wing with rudder. We practice as often as possible.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409743#409743
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
[quote="Kelly McMullen"]Does anyone know the speed difference between start of
buffet to actual stall break?
On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 12:56 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Thanks for the answers. I am was referring to clean stall speed, I might not
have reached a full stall and was probably in caught buffeting down.
> @Tim I did my airspeed calibration runs and the were within limits. However
from an engineering point of view that is the only possible error source as the
wing is the same as anyone else's. I guess I will redo my airspeed calibration
run tomorrow.
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409708#409708 (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409708#409708)
>
>
> See my last post too. No flaps...3-4 knots. No flaps...1-2 knots.
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
> [b]
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409744#409744
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "PlaneAround,LLC" <strasnuts(at)gmail.com> |
I have these numbers on my phone for 2300 lbs. I'm on the road right now. Fo
r some reason I just have these numbers
Of course the vans stall tab can be changed but these represent the differen
ce between stall horn and actual stall.
Flaps 30 stall 43 horn 60
Flaps 20 stall 48 horn 62
Flaps 0 stall 53 horn 63
Flaps -3 stall 57 horn 67
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 2, 2013, at 20:36, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Does anyone know the speed difference between start of buffet to actual st
all break?
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 12:56 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the answers. I am was referring to clean stall speed, I might n
ot have reached a full stall and was probably in caught buffeting down.
>> @Tim I did my airspeed calibration runs and the were within limits. Howev
er from an engineering point of view that is the only possible error source a
s the wing is the same as anyone else's. I guess I will redo my airspeed cal
ibration run tomorrow.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409708#409708
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Jim Combs wrote:
> Follow the instructions. It all works just fine. No reason to anything differently
on this part of the build
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 2, 2013, at 10:15 AM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> > Instructions tell me to rivet top tailcone skin when riveting cabin cover.
I see no reason not to leave it off until things get completed behind baggage
bulkhead. I always thought though that I would be bucking rivets when attaching
cabin cover but it calls for cs4-4 rivets. I was thinking an426s since there
is a backing plate. Has anyone done this or not a good idea with the fiberglass?
Isn't this how the cowl hinges are attached?
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 flying
> > RV10 building
> > Cadillac, MI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409675#409675
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Like Jim, I just followed the plans.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409746#409746
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Cabin cover attachment-guess I haven't noticed |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
n520tx(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Cowl hinge rivets are squeezed ... for the tailcone attach, they need to
> be shot/bucked. Much bigger chance for cracking the fiberglass due to
> slippage and overpressure.
>
>
> > I always thought though that I would be bucking rivets when attaching
> > cabin cover but it calls for cs4-4 rivets. I was thinking an426s
> > since there is a backing plate. Has anyone done this or not a good
> > idea with the fiberglass? Isn't this how the cowl hinges are
> > attached?
> >
> >
>
Agree. Using a bucking bar/rivet gun, we get better rivet expansion and strength.
Rivet expansion is the thing you don't want with fiberglass or plexiglass.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409747#409747
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Copperstate RV-10 Nest 2013 |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I am in the early throws for planning the sixth (and last) RV-10 Nest at Copperstate
(AZ) 2012. Hopefully the seventh and last will be next year and my airborne
RV can join the land based one.
My land based RV will be there for the duration and serve as a crashpad for nesters
with lots of shade, seating, cold drinks, etc. Tent campers are welcome to
use my facilities as needed.
Carne Asada lunch will again be noonish on Saturday. The last couple of years we
have had several vendors join us for lunch and that has been popular. Reps from
Van's, Dynon, Advanced, Approach Stack and others have joined in and great
conversations have ensued. We even got a write up in the RVator.
The hardest part of the whole thing for me is provision planning. Those planning
on coming for lunch please let me know, and yes, friends and family who are
not RV-10ers are welcome.
Any other ideas or suggestions are welcome.
Myron
602 421-2868
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409749#409749
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Update:
I did a speed validation run today followed by a clean stall attempt.
I actually can't get it to break same as rv10flyer stated its a rocking horse ride
and you loose just altitude. I guess I will have to move the cg backwards
to produce a stall break. The controls were at the backward stop.
I will slowly move the c.g. back.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409759#409759
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest 2013 |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Myron,
You are way too generous doing this year after year with only a little cash
thrown your way for appreciation. The time spent provisioning and setting
this up all takes away from your building.
I for one will be present. I hope we can both add flying RVs to the show
next year.
Kelly
On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 11:49 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> I am in the early throws for planning the sixth (and last) RV-10 Nest at
> Copperstate (AZ) 2012. Hopefully the seventh and last will be next year and
> my airborne RV can join the land based one.
>
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF
> complete.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409749#409749
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
At some point you will need to test the rear c.g. limit at full gross. I
certainly agree with approaching that slowly to avoid any nasty surprises.
It is likely useful to know how differently the plane handles stall at
forward and aft c.g. limits. I've heard that if one fully explores the c.g.
envelope and checks all the other flight characteristics and airspeeds that
you will use up most or all of the 40 hours.
On Thu, Oct 3, 2013 at 7:02 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Update:
> I did a speed validation run today followed by a clean stall attempt.
> I actually can't get it to break same as rv10flyer stated its a rocking
> horse ride and you loose just altitude. I guess I will have to move the cg
> backwards to produce a stall break. The controls were at the backward stop.
> I will slowly move the c.g. back.
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409759#409759
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com> |
I have done so stall testing this past month. I saw little difference between
reflex and 0 deg flaps. Dont remember exactly but maybe 2 knots or so. Stall
at about 2500 lb was at low sixties.
You might want to also verify your weight and cg calculations prior to your next
flight.
Niko
Nikolaos Napoli
> On Oct 2, 2013, at 3:05 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I tested today my no power stall speeds at gross 2700 lbs and cg 113.8 in
> She stalled clean at 73 KIAS which is about 13 kt more than expected.
> I just want to confirm that the 60 KIAS are achieved with reflex flap (-3) and
not with 0 flaps? Controls were at the stop and buffeting started at 75-76 KIAS
> Regards
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409702#409702
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jetflex paint |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Can you advise re sourcing Jetflex paint?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409780#409780
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N312F Bird Strike |
On 9/30/2013 11:31 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> Years of talking about reacting to birds in small fast airplanes led
> to two conclusions, birds will always fold their wings and drop when
> aware of a conflict, and pulling up is the best answer as they
> generally go down and worst case hopefully you'll hit the bottom of
> the airplane instead of the canopy. I also know an experience pilot
> who opted to push forward to go under a bird at low altitude causing
> LOTS of problems that could have been easily averted. No solution
> works 100% of the time, but this one is pretty close and at least
> would be a good game plan reaction until the situation dictates
> otherwise. Again, I'm very impressed with how the RV-10 pilot handled
> this situation, I just offer this in case folks haven't given the
> situation a lot of thought and it's far better to have a plan before
> the bird shows up at close 12 o'clock instead of trying to decide what
> to do.
My experience with birds down low in slow movers agrees with your
conclusions. I used to do a fair amount of ridge running in gliders;
<500' @ 130-150knots. Lot's of birds down there, especially this time
of year during the migration. Years of talking and reading about these
conflicts led to the same two conclusions; birds will fold and go down,
and pulling up to over them is the best way to avoid them.
More specifically, we would often find ourselves coming up in a bird's
sixes and at the same altitude or lower. Lateral deviations with 50'+
of glider wing is sluggish at best. The thing we learned never to do
was to attempt going under the bird, even if it was 10' to 20' above
you. At near treetop altitudes on the ridge, the bird folds and heads
for the tree tops. Absolutely every time. Pulling up was the way to go
and one would usually just manage to see the bird fold and split S
before the nose covered him up. Some learned the hard way and landed
with bloody cockpits.
However, at higher altitudes my experience (and I think the experience
of others) was that birds were likely to do just about anything. In
slow speed gaggles when sharing the air with them, they just played see
and avoid just as we would. If surprised, the same thing. That is,
they would just react with some quick move that seemed right to them at
the moment.
My personal thinking and plan for action at altitude in an airplane is
to quickly react laterally, towards it's tail if possible, and to pull.
Pull unless the bird is above me. In any case, given my aircraft and
skills, I'm going to go wherever I think the bird won't but it will
always be a pull and never a push.
Bill "one goose, one deer, hopefully no more" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Air seal fabric around prop governor |
I'm having a hard time conceptualizing what happens at the interface of the prop
governor, the air ramp and the air seal fabric. It seams like a big leaky hole
to me. Does anyone have pictures... or wonderfully descriptive words... of
that area?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air seal fabric around prop governor |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
You pretty much summed it up. Seal it with rtv and seal material as best as you
can. Keep fiberglass cutout snug except for control arm area. Think of cowl movement
locking prop control up. I have everything else tight and no overheating(over
400F for me) at full gross 120 kt climbout on a 100F day.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409805#409805
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jetflex paint |
| From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
bob88 wrote:
> Can you advise re sourcing Jetflex paint?
I got mine from Advanced Aircraft Coatings in Oklahoma.
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Electrical/avionics
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409850#409850
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jetflex paint |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I got it from Aviall.com
--------
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409852#409852
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | "Bill Strahan" <bill(at)gdsx.com> |
Jackm wrote:
> This is how we moved to paint shop for four hour drive. Very secure and easy
to move. This skid will be available to anyone to use after it returns back.....only
problem is it weighs half as much as complete plane.
Jack,
Would you be willing to share any information you have on the design of that skid?
Materials, wall thicknesses, etc.
Thanks!
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409913#409913
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 loss -> tail inspections -> spar cracks and loose jam |
nuts found
A thread at VAF discusses the results of empenage inspections after the
recent loss of an RV-7.
(http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=104551) A
couple of spar cracks were found, as were several instances of loose jam
nuts on rudder/elevator rod end bearings.
Those rod end bearings form the hinge pivot for our elevators and
rudders. My understanding: If the jam nut is tight, the spar is held
in compression between the rod end bearing's plate nut and jam nut. If
the jam nut comes loose, the loads from the rod end bearing transfer to
the rudder/elevator spar only through the rivets holding the platenuts
to the spar. Not so good.
Prompted by this thread, I inspected my RV-10 tail structure. No spar
cracks found. But I found that the top rudder rod end bearing jam nut
(page 11-7, similar to plans page 11-2) was loose. The torque seal on
this nut was (obviously) broken.
Tim
-- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 400 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | NonStop Aviation air valve for oil cooler. |
I ordered the air valve back in August, and received an email
confirmation and PayPal debit immediately. In the last three months I
have repeatedly tried to contact Eric thru email and phone calls, but
have never heard back from him. The archives report several other such
incidents, but none that have gone on for this long. Pretty crappy way
to run a business, even a part time one. Does anyone know if this guy is
still around?
Does anyone know of another source for a air-valve other than the one
Vans sells?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NonStop Aviation air valve for oil cooler. |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I got mine from Avery Tools along with a "few" other tools.
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1503
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409971#409971
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | "Jackm" <jackm(at)vinetechequipment.com> |
Bill,
Two forklift supports was 3 x 5 x .188" Across rear was 4 x 4 x.188" . Slid in
each side was 3.5 x 3.5 x188" tube that was welded to 18" of heavy 8" c chan.
Center front was 24" 8" c chan. 1" pipe weld on each rear skid for handles and
also round support for straps to pull down on landing gear. Flat bar welded
for and aft of each tire to gain extra wedge for tires to ride in.
When I get it back from paint shop I can send you better pictures and dimensions.
It took about a hour to weld up and about $300 of metal but I was not going
to chance rolling all that work up a ramp and end up upside down during unload
at paint shop. This was quick and secure and can be used by others once we
are done with it.
Hope this helps and let me know what else you need.
--------
Jackm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409972#409972
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jetflex paint |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Assuming the JetFlex was a semi-gloss, are you happy with that or would a full
gloss type finish be better for interior?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410046#410046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Cowl Replacement Update |
Robin,
I finally jettisoned the James cowl and went with Showplanes. Documentat
ion is very thin from Bryan so I was hoping you had some pictures of your i
nstall besides this one. Also, did they charge you extra for the induction
parts in your picture below?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 9:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Replacement Update
Someone asked to see the front view of the Showplanes cowl to review the FI
inlet area.
Here you go!
Robin
[cid:image001.jpg(at)01CEC40E.E287F430][cid:image002.jpg(at)01CEC40E.E287F430]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jetflex paint |
| From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
My finish is semi-gloss or almost a matte finish. I'm happy with it since I didn't
want to be dealing with reflective surfaces in the cockpit. Truth is, as I'm
approaching the end of the build and a finished interior, much of my interior
will be covered in carpet and there won't be too much paint showing aside from
the overhead console. So, probably just a preference thing.
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Electrical/avionics
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410084#410084
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)EARTHLINK.NET> |
Guys,
Size down those photos! It's hard to scroll to the right to read one line of text.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410149#410149
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Flap positioning system |
For those of you who installed the Flap Positioning System from
Aircraft Extras, did you install it where Vans suggests to install it in
the tunnel, or elsewhere. I am concerned about the heat in the tunnel.
Any thoughts would really be appreciated.
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap positioning system |
I would be more concerned about mixing fuel vapors and electronics than heat.
I have a VP/X, but I would put it behind the panel if I were to install one.
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 9, 2013, at 5:35 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
For those of you who installed the Flap Positioning System from Aircraft Extras,
did you install it where Vans suggests to install it in the tunnel, or elsewhere.
I am concerned about the heat in the tunnel. Any thoughts would really
be appreciated.
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flatbed Tow Truck To Hangar |
| From: | "Bill Strahan" <bill(at)gdsx.com> |
Perfect! Just hang on ti it, keep a forklift in the hanger, and you can lift it
up enough to keep two planes in there!
Jackm wrote:
> Bill,
>
> Two forklift supports was 3 x 5 x .188" Across rear was 4 x 4 x.188" . Slid
in each side was 3.5 x 3.5 x188" tube that was welded to 18" of heavy 8" c chan.
Center front was 24" 8" c chan. 1" pipe weld on each rear skid for handles
and also round support for straps to pull down on landing gear. Flat bar welded
for and aft of each tire to gain extra wedge for tires to ride in.
> When I get it back from paint shop I can send you better pictures and dimensions.
It took about a hour to weld up and about $300 of metal but I was not going
to chance rolling all that work up a ramp and end up upside down during unload
at paint shop. This was quick and secure and can be used by others once we
are done with it.
>
> Hope this helps and let me know what else you need.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410165#410165
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap positioning system |
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
I haven't done the aircraft extra's flap system, but we've always found room for
the TCW safety trim box behind the panel. I second installing it there. When
the plane is fully assembled you will have better access as well. The tunnel
cover takes some time to remove and replace.
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 9, 2013, at 2:50 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I would be more concerned about mixing fuel vapors and electronics than heat.
>
> I have a VP/X, but I would put it behind the panel if I were to install one.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 9, 2013, at 5:35 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
>
> For those of you who installed the Flap Positioning System from Aircraft Extras,
did you install it where Vans suggests to install it in the tunnel, or elsewhere.
I am concerned about the heat in the tunnel. Any thoughts would really
be appreciated.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap positioning system |
Mine is installed in the tunnel as suggested. I don't think it can
practically be installed elsewhere. Works fine, no worries here.
The tunnel can be hot but I don't think that's an issue here. The FPS
is behind the spar, the fuel is ahead of the spar so there is
significant separation.
Just FYI - I don't have any sort of flap position indicator... I just
look out the window. Seems natural and right as long as you have the
FPS detents.
On 10/9/2013 5:35 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
> For those of you who installed the Flap Positioning System from
> Aircraft Extras, did you install it where Vans suggests to install it
> in the tunnel, or elsewhere. I am concerned about the heat in the
> tunnel. Any thoughts would really be appreciated.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Accessing the fuel pump and filter: If the modular carbon fiber panel sold by Stein
has the center console installed, how hard will it be to access the fuel
filter in the tunnel? Looks like it will be hard enough without any console.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410320#410320
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
http://tinyurl.com/kna2jex
will give you access. Put one on each side if you want super access.
On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 7:39 AM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Accessing the fuel pump and filter: If the modular carbon fiber panel sold
> by Stein has the center console installed, how hard will it be to access
> the fuel filter in the tunnel? Looks like it will be hard enough without
> any console.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410320#410320
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap positioning system |
| From: | "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Here's where I mounted my flap controller. The photo is a bit dated, but close
enough.
The only thing in the tunnel is the motor. I've inspected this area several times
since phase 1 and it's pretty easy to get to.
I also have the flap safety trim system, but it's mounted on an under panel drop
down tray on the copilot side.
Cheers,
Jay
N433RV - Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410333#410333
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0867_145.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot. Geoff
Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell assisted me
with the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with Geoff in his
RV-10, then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that helped me today.
Geoff Combs following me to the runway as the chase plane.
http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1405.jpg
N410BL departs earth for the first time!
http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1411.jpg
Taxing back to the hangar. Successful flight!
http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1434.jpg
Joe Strausbaugh, Lynn Coriell, Geoff Combs, Bob Leffler, and Renee Leffler.
Photo taken by Phil Newlon. Thanks to all of them for their help and
assistance.
http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1437.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Congratulations Bob, it's been a long time coming!
Bob
On Friday, October 11, 2013, Bob Leffler wrote:
> ** **
>
> About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot.
> Geoff Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell assisted
> me with the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with Geoff in his
> RV-10, then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that helped me today.
> ****
>
> ****
>
> Geoff Combs following me to the runway as the chase plane.****
>
> ****
>
> [image: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1405.jpg]****
>
> ****
>
> N410BL departs earth for the first time!****
>
> ****
>
> [image: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1411.jpg]****
>
> ****
>
> Taxing back to the hangar. Successful flight!****
>
> ****
>
> [image: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1434.jpg]****
>
> ****
>
> Joe Strausbaugh, Lynn Coriell, Geoff Combs, Bob Leffler, and Renee
> Leffler. Photo taken by Phil Newlon. Thanks to all of them for their help
> and assistance.****
>
> ****
>
> [image: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1437.jpg]****
>
> ** **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Congrats Bob!
Well done, well done indeed.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 11, 2013, at 7:30 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>
>
> About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot. Geof
f Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell assisted me w
ith the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with Geoff in his RV-10,
then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that helped me today.
>
> Geoff Combs following me to the runway as the chase plane.
>
>
>
> N410BL departs earth for the first time!
>
>
>
> Taxing back to the hangar. Successful flight!
>
>
>
> Joe Strausbaugh, Lynn Coriell, Geoff Combs, Bob Leffler, and Renee Leffler
. Photo taken by Phil Newlon. Thanks to all of them for their help and ass
istance.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
Congrats Bob! Looks great, glad you=99re in the air!
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 7:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N410BL Flies
About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot.
Geoff Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell
assisted me with the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with
Geoff in his RV-10, then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that
helped me today.
Geoff Combs following me to the runway as the chase plane.
N410BL departs earth for the first time!
Taxing back to the hangar. Successful flight!
Joe Strausbaugh, Lynn Coriell, Geoff Combs, Bob Leffler, and Renee
Leffler. Photo taken by Phil Newlon. Thanks to all of them for their
help and assistance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
What a great event! I know how long you have been working on it. Sorry
we didn't have a chance to stop by when we visited Geoff's facility a
couple weeks ago.
At least you have plenty of time to fly off Phase I before next years
airshow season.
Kelly
On 10/11/2013 6:30 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot.
> Geoff Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell
> assisted me with the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with
> Geoff in his RV-10, then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that
> helped me today.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
I saw a photo of someone who had put an access panel on the bottom. Seems like
a clean way to access the filter.
http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=81178&highlight=tunnel+fuel
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410367#410367
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
A Big Congrats!!
n 10/11/2013 9:30 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot.
> Geoff Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell
> assisted me with the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with
> Geoff in his RV-10, then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that
> helped me today.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
Just an FYI for those considering an access panel of any kind...
I considered adding a hatch but just got lazy and didn't, wondering how
much I would regret it. Well, after 2 condition inspections I don't
miss it.
The reason I don't miss it is that the inspection requires removing the
tunnel cover anyway, which is a real PITA when carpet and a center
console is included. Actually my custom O2 bottle carrying slim line
center console is the easiest part to remove, but I digress.
Once the cover is removed along with the seats, removing and installing
the filter is not difficult at all. The clamp is easy to handle and the
connections are easy as well. I guess a little fuel is spilled but I
can't really recall. I probably wet a rag with any that I found and
immediately used it to wipe something done. (I was thinking that the
bottom hatch may provide a nice gargle during filter removal)
In my case, the filter appears very clean with only the smallest bits of
debris found over 340 hours. I say that to suggest that annual
servicing is all I ever intend to do unless confronted with a known
contamination problem. However, a known contamination problem would
make an access panel a very good thing.
So, I'd just say that it is a very nice to have but far from necessary
mod. That tunnel top needs to come off once a year no matter what and
the filter shouldn't require any additional access in normal ops IMHO.
Bill
On 10/12/2013 2:09 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
> I saw a photo of someone who had put an access panel on the bottom. Seems like
a clean way to access the filter.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=81178&highlight=tunnel+fuel
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
I guess it all depends on whether you stick with the one piece tunnel
cover that Vans provides or if you split it into two or more pieces.
I doubt I will ever remove the front tunnel cover once it is installed
for first flight. The section under the fuel selector would be a real
pain, and with a side cover installed, there is no need to remove the
top cover. I'm only debating whether to add a second side cover.
However I also have Paul Grimstead's custom rudder pedals that penetrate
the cover and would complicate its removal.
Kelly
On 10/12/2013 7:14 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Just an FYI for those considering an access panel of any kind...
>
> I considered adding a hatch but just got lazy and didn't, wondering
> how much I would regret it. Well, after 2 condition inspections I
> don't miss it.
>
> The reason I don't miss it is that the inspection requires removing
> the tunnel cover anyway, which is a real PITA when carpet and a center
> console is included. Actually my custom O2 bottle carrying slim line
> center console is the easiest part to remove, but I digress.
>
> Once the cover is removed along with the seats, removing and
> installing the filter is not difficult at all. The clamp is easy to
> handle and the connections are easy as well. I guess a little fuel is
> spilled but I can't really recall. I probably wet a rag with any that
> I found and immediately used it to wipe something done. (I was
> thinking that the bottom hatch may provide a nice gargle during filter
> removal)
>
> In my case, the filter appears very clean with only the smallest bits
> of debris found over 340 hours. I say that to suggest that annual
> servicing is all I ever intend to do unless confronted with a known
> contamination problem. However, a known contamination problem would
> make an access panel a very good thing.
>
> So, I'd just say that it is a very nice to have but far from necessary
> mod. That tunnel top needs to come off once a year no matter what and
> the filter shouldn't require any additional access in normal ops IMHO.
>
> Bill
>
> On 10/12/2013 2:09 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>
>> I saw a photo of someone who had put an access panel on the bottom.
>> Seems like a clean way to access the filter.
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=81178&highlight=tunnel+fuel
>>
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 flying
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
| From: | Don Mc Donald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Congrats, and welcome to the flying wing of the board.
Don McDonald
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 12, 2013, at 8:39 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> A Big Congrats!!
>
> n 10/11/2013 9:30 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot. Geo
ff Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell assisted me w
ith the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with Geoff in his RV-10,
then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that helped me today.
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
For those on the darkside, I mounted my fuel filters in the wing roots. It is much
easier access for inspection and cleaning. After a few hours of flying I did
find construction debris in the filters so be sure to check them periodically.
I have a Center console so top removal is a huge deal. I did put in a side wall
tunnel access panel for access to the fuel pumps.
I also have Paul's rudder pedals.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 12, 2013, at 8:30 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> I guess it all depends on whether you stick with the one piece tunnel cover that
Vans provides or if you split it into two or more pieces.
> I doubt I will ever remove the front tunnel cover once it is installed for first
flight. The section under the fuel selector would be a real pain, and with
a side cover installed, there is no need to remove the top cover. I'm only debating
whether to add a second side cover.
> However I also have Paul Grimstead's custom rudder pedals that penetrate the
cover and would complicate its removal.
> Kelly
>> On 10/12/2013 7:14 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Just an FYI for those considering an access panel of any kind...
>>
>> I considered adding a hatch but just got lazy and didn't, wondering how much
I would regret it. Well, after 2 condition inspections I don't miss it.
>>
>> The reason I don't miss it is that the inspection requires removing the tunnel
cover anyway, which is a real PITA when carpet and a center console is included.
Actually my custom O2 bottle carrying slim line center console is the easiest
part to remove, but I digress.
>>
>> Once the cover is removed along with the seats, removing and installing the
filter is not difficult at all. The clamp is easy to handle and the connections
are easy as well. I guess a little fuel is spilled but I can't really recall.
I probably wet a rag with any that I found and immediately used it to wipe
something done. (I was thinking that the bottom hatch may provide a nice gargle
during filter removal)
>>
>> In my case, the filter appears very clean with only the smallest bits of debris
found over 340 hours. I say that to suggest that annual servicing is all
I ever intend to do unless confronted with a known contamination problem. However,
a known contamination problem would make an access panel a very good thing.
>>
>> So, I'd just say that it is a very nice to have but far from necessary mod.
That tunnel top needs to come off once a year no matter what and the filter shouldn't
require any additional access in normal ops IMHO.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>> On 10/12/2013 2:09 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>>
>>> I saw a photo of someone who had put an access panel on the bottom. Seems
like a clean way to access the filter.
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=81178&highlight=tunnel+fuel
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Dave Ford
>>> RV6 flying
>>> RV10 building
>>> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
Good point.
I don't think I split it but I did do a lot of 'creative' work to get
the Andair valve installed in such a way that removal of the cover would
be easy. And my console removes in seconds.
I'm guessing as it is in so many cases that if you do a 100% stock Vans
build, this isn't such an issue. But that's no fun!
Bill
On 10/12/2013 10:30 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I guess it all depends on whether you stick with the one piece tunnel
> cover that Vans provides or if you split it into two or more pieces.
> I doubt I will ever remove the front tunnel cover once it is installed
> for first flight. The section under the fuel selector would be a real
> pain, and with a side cover installed, there is no need to remove the
> top cover. I'm only debating whether to add a second side cover.
> However I also have Paul Grimstead's custom rudder pedals that
> penetrate the cover and would complicate its removal.
> Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
Congrats Bob! Such a serious face taxing back to the hangar. I figured
we'd see a bit of a smile.. :). Where's that RV grin?
-Ben Westfall
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 6:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N410BL Flies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
Bob, a huge congratulations! What a thrill!
On Oct 11, 2013, at 6:30 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>
> About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot. Geof
f Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell assisted me w
ith the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with Geoff in his RV-10,
then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that helped me today.
>
> Geoff Combs following me to the runway as the chase plane.
>
>
>
> N410BL departs earth for the first time!
>
>
>
> Taxing back to the hangar. Successful flight!
>
>
>
> Joe Strausbaugh, Lynn Coriell, Geoff Combs, Bob Leffler, and Renee Leffler
. Photo taken by Phil Newlon. Thanks to all of them for their help and ass
istance.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
Regardless of how many filters and where mounted, before first engine start
recommend a comprehensive flush of the fuel system. About 20 gals of avgas
in a tank, fuel filter temporarily replaced with a straight piece of tubing,
the fuel line disconnected at the mechanical fuel pump then via tygon tubing
and a "see through" automotive type filter to gas cans. Repeat as needed
until you get no more "finds" coming out of the system. This process also
provides opportunity to calibrate the tank fuel level senders.
While working the fuselage I let tanks sit for several months off the wing
in various positions about 1/3 full of avgas, filling, shaking and draining
from time to time using the same type of automotive filter to cycle the
AVGAS to gas cans and back. This got the majority of junk out of the tanks
and also provided a good check for weeping rivets on the fuel tanks -
standard pressure testing will not find these.
The end result was a perfectly clean fuel filter after the first 40 hours.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2013 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console
installed
Hi
For those on the darkside, I mounted my fuel filters in the wing roots. It
is much easier access for inspection and cleaning. After a few hours of
flying I did find construction debris in the filters so be sure to check
them periodically.
I have a Center console so top removal is a huge deal. I did put in a side
wall tunnel access panel for access to the fuel pumps.
I also have Paul's rudder pedals.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 12, 2013, at 8:30 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> I guess it all depends on whether you stick with the one piece tunnel
cover that Vans provides or if you split it into two or more pieces.
> I doubt I will ever remove the front tunnel cover once it is installed for
first flight. The section under the fuel selector would be a real pain, and
with a side cover installed, there is no need to remove the top cover. I'm
only debating whether to add a second side cover.
> However I also have Paul Grimstead's custom rudder pedals that penetrate
the cover and would complicate its removal.
> Kelly
>> On 10/12/2013 7:14 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Just an FYI for those considering an access panel of any kind...
>>
>> I considered adding a hatch but just got lazy and didn't, wondering how
much I would regret it. Well, after 2 condition inspections I don't miss
it.
>>
>> The reason I don't miss it is that the inspection requires removing the
tunnel cover anyway, which is a real PITA when carpet and a center console
is included. Actually my custom O2 bottle carrying slim line center console
is the easiest part to remove, but I digress.
>>
>> Once the cover is removed along with the seats, removing and
>> installing the filter is not difficult at all. The clamp is easy to
>> handle and the connections are easy as well. I guess a little fuel
>> is spilled but I can't really recall. I probably wet a rag with any
>> that I found and immediately used it to wipe something done. (I was
>> thinking that the bottom hatch may provide a nice gargle during
>> filter removal)
>>
>> In my case, the filter appears very clean with only the smallest bits of
debris found over 340 hours. I say that to suggest that annual servicing is
all I ever intend to do unless confronted with a known contamination
problem. However, a known contamination problem would make an access panel
a very good thing.
>>
>> So, I'd just say that it is a very nice to have but far from necessary
mod. That tunnel top needs to come off once a year no matter what and the
filter shouldn't require any additional access in normal ops IMHO.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>> On 10/12/2013 2:09 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>>
>>> I saw a photo of someone who had put an access panel on the bottom.
Seems like a clean way to access the filter.
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=81178&highlight=tunn
>>> el+fuel
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Dave Ford
>>> RV6 flying
>>> RV10 building
>>> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to the fuel filter with center console installed |
I have a setup like that. I made the bottom access after checking my filter the
first time. Had to pull the carpet to remove tunnel cover as well as unhook rudder
cables to remove carpet. Before reinstalling tunnel cover I split it into
two parts to make removal easier. Even being careful I still spilled several
ounces of fuel with a small amount coming from the valve even with it shut off.
I'll send you pics when I get home Monday.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
---- rvdave wrote:
>
> I saw a photo of someone who had put an access panel on the bottom. Seems like
a clean way to access the filter.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=81178&highlight=tunnel+fuel
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410367#410367
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Bob,
If ever there was a prime example of perseverance in building, you're
it. Watching your build I've felt like I've come to know you and your
family just a little, what with the relocations, watching Brad fulfill
his dreams (and probably yours as well), I'm so happy that you can
reap the fruits of your labors. C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S ! ! !
enjoy.
On Sat, Oct 12, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Ben Westfall wrote:
> Congrats Bob! Such a serious face taxing back to the hangar. I figured
> wed see a bit of a smile. J. Wheres that RV grin?
>
>
> -Ben Westfall
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 6:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com; GARVaviation(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV10-List: N410BL Flies
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Bob congratulations on the successful debut.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 9:30 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> ** **
>
> About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot.
> Geoff Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell assisted
> me with the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with Geoff in his
> RV-10, then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that helped me today.
> ****
>
> ****
>
> Geoff Combs following me to the runway as the chase plane.****
>
> ****
>
> [image: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1405.jpg]****
>
> ****
>
> N410BL departs earth for the first time!****
>
> ****
>
> [image: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1411.jpg]****
>
> ****
>
> Taxing back to the hangar. Successful flight!****
>
> ****
>
> [image: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1434.jpg]****
>
> ****
>
> Joe Strausbaugh, Lynn Coriell, Geoff Combs, Bob Leffler, and Renee
> Leffler. Photo taken by Phil Newlon. Thanks to all of them for their help
> and assistance.****
>
> ****
>
> [image: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1437.jpg]****
>
> ** **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Congratulations from downunder in South Australia Bob, she looks magnificent
.
Wishing you safe skies and tailwinds.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 12 Oct 2013, at 12:36, Bob Condrey wrote:
>
> Congratulations Bob, it's been a long time coming!
>
> Bob
>
>> On Friday, October 11, 2013, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>>
>> About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot. Geo
ff Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell assisted me w
ith the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with Geoff in his RV-10,
then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that helped me today.
>>
>>
>>
>> Geoff Combs following me to the runway as the chase plane.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> N410BL departs earth for the first time!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Taxing back to the hangar. Successful flight!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Strausbaugh, Lynn Coriell, Geoff Combs, Bob Leffler, and Renee Leffle
r. Photo taken by Phil Newlon. Thanks to all of them for their help and as
sistance.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N410BL Flies |
>
Way to go Bob! Great job being persistent and taking her all the way to
the finish line. She looks beautiful and I'm sure you are on cloud 9,
and stuck there with the RV-grin!
Rich Hansen
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mechanical fuel pump pressure |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I'm looking for the amount of fuel pressure that the mechanical fuel pump (engine
attached) on a yio-540-d4a5 is supposed to yield. Aircraft Spruce's listing
states 25-30psi. Is this what I should expect?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is only generating about 23 psi.
Is there any effective way to test, short of taking it off and sending back to
Lycoming or a certified shop?
Thanks,
Bob
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mechanical fuel pump pressure |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
23 is fine. The Bendix fuel injection needs approx. 15 psi as a minimum. 30
is generally considered a maximum. I don't know why Spruce lists the
numbers they do.
On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 2:50 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I'm looking for the amount of fuel pressure that the mechanical fuel pump
> (engine attached) on a yio-540-d4a5 is supposed to yield. Aircraft
> Spruce's listing states 25-30psi. Is this what I should expect?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that mine is only generating about 23 psi.
>
> Is there any effective way to test, short of taking it off and sending
> back to Lycoming or a certified shop?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mechanical fuel pump pressure |
Bob, I took a look in the Operators manual. It seems to indicate that
between 14 to 45psi is normal for input to the fuel injector.
I took a look at a few random flight logs and see that my fuel pressure
stays between 18 and 21 psi. I think I have the alarm set at 15psi and
it has gone off a few times over the last 300+ hours. During climb on a
hot day as I recall but not sure. I haven't been concerned.
Bill
On 10/14/2013 5:50 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I'm looking for the amount of fuel pressure that the mechanical fuel pump (engine
attached) on a yio-540-d4a5 is supposed to yield. Aircraft Spruce's listing
states 25-30psi. Is this what I should expect?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that mine is only generating about 23 psi.
>
> Is there any effective way to test, short of taking it off and sending back to
Lycoming or a certified shop?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
Awsome!
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2013 3:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N410BL Flies
About 5pm at KDLZ, N410BL took its first flight with me as the pilot. Geoff
Combs, Phil Newlon, Renee Leffler, Zac Holcomb, Lynn Coriell assisted me w
ith the first flight. I did a couple touch and goes with Geoff in his RV-10
, then it was my turn. I want to thank everyone that helped me today.
Geoff Combs following me to the runway as the chase plane.
[http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1405.jpg]
N410BL departs earth for the first time!
[http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1411.jpg]
Taxing back to the hangar. Successful flight!
[http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1434.jpg]
Joe Strausbaugh, Lynn Coriell, Geoff Combs, Bob Leffler, and Renee Leffler.
Photo taken by Phil Newlon. Thanks to all of them for their help and ass
istance.
[http://www.aerosportproducts.com/bob/IMG_1437.jpg]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mechanical fuel pump pressure |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I agree with the above post.
Bob, if you bought the engine thru Vans you should have received a white binder
with all the numbers in it.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410507#410507
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mechanical fuel pump pressure |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I agree with the above post.
Bob, if you bought the engine thru Vans you should have received a white binder
with all the numbers in it.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410506#410506
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mechanical fuel pump pressure |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I missed it when I flipped through the manual early this morning. It indeed states
the numbers that Bill mentioned.
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410524#410524
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mechanical fuel pump pressure |
BTW, that kind of thing will happen a lot as you transition from
building to flying and maintaining, at least it did to me.
Just when I got near the top of learning curve I suddenly found myself
staring up at another. However, whenever I found my self sitting in the
pilot's seat making airplane noises, I was at 5,000' and 170
knots....and there was no fiberglass dust!
Bill "leaving this little knot of gray rainy weather for FL soon" Watson
On 10/14/2013 1:57 PM, rleffler wrote:
>
> I missed it when I flipped through the manual early this morning. It indeed
states the numbers that Bill mentioned.
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Phase I
> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410524#410524
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi! I recommend this link http://ponyworldtinte.nl/_l12_sensation.2013_m14_.html?rjpilizilol=15524892&cjmjli=57588
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eric.roumeas(at)free.fr |
CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION !
this link leads to a SCAM (website in French): http://ponyworldtinte.nl/_l12_sensation.2013_m14_.html?rjpilizilol=15524892&cjmjli=57588
See here where it is denounced (website in French): http://purevitalenergy.promety.net/mitoslim-et-nuvocleanse-bonne-affaire-ou-arnaque/
----- Mail original -----
De: n8zg(at)att.net
: rv10-list(at)matronics.com, troop102gb(at)yahoogroups.com, jellico1024(at)gmail.com, ronc(at)nctv.com,
oc(at)aol.com
Envoy: Mardi 15 Octobre 2013 07:42:20
Objet: RV10-List: Fw:
Hi! I recommend this link http://ponyworldtinte.nl/_l12_sensation.2013_m14_.html?rjpilizilol=15524892&cjmjli=57588
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Greetings, Rv10 List |
Tue, 15 Oct 2013 11:29:54
http://streetnoizaudio.net/cache/twitter.php?rpcc204pyvqy
Neal George
n8zg(at)att.net
------------------
Some people wish for peace for our children and their children. This is not enough.
We must insist on peace for ourselves. -- King Abdullah of Jordan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eric.roumeas(at)free.fr |
| Subject: | Re: Greetings, Rv10 List |
CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION !
this link leads to a SCAM (website in French): http://ponyworldtinte.nl/_l12_sensation.2013_m14_.html?rjpilizilol=15524892&cjmjli=57588
See here where it is denounced (website in French): http://purevitalenergy.promety.net/mitoslim-et-nuvocleanse-bonne-affaire-ou-arnaque/
----- Mail original -----
De: "Neal George"
: "Rv10 List"
Envoy: Mardi 15 Octobre 2013 13:29:54
Objet: RV10-List: Greetings, Rv10 List
Tue, 15 Oct 2013 11:29:54
http://streetnoizaudio.net/cache/twitter.php?rpcc204pyvqy
Neal George
n8zg(at)att.net
------------------
Some people wish for peace for our children and their children. This is not enough.
We must insist on peace for ourselves. -- King Abdullah of Jordan ~,%M4xwr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I wanted to report the latest results of my stall testing we move the c.g. slowly
backwards to 115.2 (full fuel) and 2700 lbs MTOW. Whic. Would giv me a c.g.
of 116.18 ( low fuel).
The plane flies until 69 KIAS but won't break into a stall. It is a "rocking horse"
ride down. From what I read others extropolate the numbers to 2700 lbs and
did tests with less weight but did anyone fly with 2700 lbs to a stall break
with reflex flaps (clean)?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410606#410606
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
The stall speed still sounds high.
On the 8A I noted my landings were taking up way too much runway when using
the same approached I used for years. I built the attached simple airspeed
calibration rig and found the airspeed meter was reading correctly at
cruise, but several knots high at speeds below 80 knots or so. How I fixed
it to read accurately is another story.
As a side note, the rig is perhaps $5 of tygon tubing but it is dead on
accurate. I used it before first flight on the 10 to make sure the EFIS and
the steam gauge airspeed meter were reading accurately across the speed
range. It is also useful to check for and correct pitot and static line
leaks.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Whisky
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 10:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds
I wanted to report the latest results of my stall testing we move the c.g.
slowly backwards to 115.2 (full fuel) and 2700 lbs MTOW. Whic. Would giv me
a c.g. of 116.18 ( low fuel).
The plane flies until 69 KIAS but won't break into a stall. It is a "rocking
horse" ride down. From what I read others extropolate the numbers to 2700
lbs and did tests with less weight but did anyone fly with 2700 lbs to a
stall break with reflex flaps (clean)?
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410606#410606
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
For our Swiss friend, note that the scale on Carl's gizmo is in inches on the left
side. Also, the air source is low pressure - 1 or 2 psi max. Do not use your
shop compressor. In fact, if your sustem is leak free, you do not need an air
source at all. Just raise the free end of the water tube, and read the difference
between the two sides on Carl's scale.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410622#410622
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
I use one of those blood pressure squeeze bulbs. It is perfect for this.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 12:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds
For our Swiss friend, note that the scale on Carl's gizmo is in inches on
the left side. Also, the air source is low pressure - 1 or 2 psi max. Do not
use your shop compressor. In fact, if your sustem is leak free, you do not
need an air source at all. Just raise the free end of the water tube, and
read the difference between the two sides on Carl's scale.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410622#410622
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
I have been using a simple bent whip antenna on the bottom of my RV-10 for 7 years,
but the signal has been getting weaker and I'm looking at upgrading. I looked
in the archives but seemed to miss a discussion that I'm sure has been made,
but I was wondering how much better antennas like COMANT's CI-122 are over
the significantly cheaper bent whip? I'm using the low drag antenna on the
cabin roof for COMM 2 and it works great.
Thanks,
Marcus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna |
On 10/15/2013 5:28 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> I have been using a simple bent whip antenna on the bottom of my RV-10 for 7
years, but the signal has been getting weaker and I'm looking at upgrading.
The bent whip antennas don't get 'weaker' ..... unless they're filthy.
I think something is deteriorating .... most likely a kink or bend in
the coax to the antenna or the connection at the antenna. Putting an
expensive antenna on the bad coax won't improve things much.
Linn
> I looked in the archives but seemed to miss a discussion that I'm sure has
been made, but I was wondering how much better antennas like COMANT's CI-122
are over the significantly cheaper bent whip? I'm using the low drag antenna
on the cabin roof for COMM 2 and it works great.
It's a lot of work but you might swap antennas to see what's up.
Linn
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Getting weaker? Antennas don't wear out in 7 years. Is it relatively clean? I would
look under the antenna for oxidation or corrosion.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410654#410654
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna |
Lynn
Have you had the com checked to see if it is ok. I had an issue with my 430
Nav portion. Single was getting weaker
And weaker. Changed antennas checked everything spent 6 months chasing this and
it turned out to be the
430. The sad thing it was still in warranty when it started but by the time
I found it, it was out by 3 months Garmin still charged me 1000.00 to repair.
Geoff Combs
Sent from my iPhone
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling
On Oct 15, 2013, at 7:02 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> On 10/15/2013 5:28 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>> I have been using a simple bent whip antenna on the bottom of my RV-10 for 7
years, but the signal has been getting weaker and I'm looking at upgrading.
> The bent whip antennas don't get 'weaker' ..... unless they're filthy. I think
something is deteriorating .... most likely a kink or bend in the coax to the
antenna or the connection at the antenna. Putting an expensive antenna on
the bad coax won't improve things much.
> Linn
>
>> I looked in the archives but seemed to miss a discussion that I'm sure has
been made, but I was wondering how much better antennas like COMANT's CI-122
are over the significantly cheaper bent whip? I'm using the low drag antenna
on the cabin roof for COMM 2 and it works great.
> It's a lot of work but you might swap antennas to see what's up.
> Linn
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marcus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Mike Whisky wrote:
> I wanted to report the latest results of my stall testing we move the c.g. slowly
backwards to 115.2 (full fuel) and 2700 lbs MTOW. Whic. Would giv me a c.g.
of 116.18 ( low fuel).
> The plane flies until 69 KIAS but won't break into a stall. It is a "rocking
horse" ride down. From what I read others extropolate the numbers to 2700 lbs
and did tests with less weight but did anyone fly with 2700 lbs to a stall break
with reflex flaps (clean)?
>
> Mike
Our RV-10 cg range is 8.4-16.8" aft of wing leading edge. During our full gross
xc flights, our cg at takeoff is 15.93". With a 4.5 hr trip and 10 gal remaining
our cg is at 16.73". We don't recommend trying to squeeze anymore in the baggage
area unless you are into exciting landings. Van's aft cg limit is right
on the money.
To your question...64 kts flaps reflex as noted above. We have elevator stops at
max range per plans which helps. We have to move stick aft a little quicker
to get it to break, but it will. Boy, we really love this plane!
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410659#410659
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Mike Whisky wrote:
> I wanted to report the latest results of my stall testing we move the c.g. slowly
backwards to 115.2 (full fuel) and 2700 lbs MTOW. Whic. Would giv me a c.g.
of 116.18 ( low fuel).
> The plane flies until 69 KIAS but won't break into a stall. It is a "rocking
horse" ride down. From what I read others extropolate the numbers to 2700 lbs
and did tests with less weight but did anyone fly with 2700 lbs to a stall break
with reflex flaps (clean)?
>
> Mike
Our RV-10 cg range is 8.4-16.8" aft of wing leading edge. During our full gross
xc flights, our cg at takeoff is 15.93". With a 4.5 hr trip and 10 gal remaining
our cg is at 16.73". We don't recommend trying to squeeze anymore in the baggage
area unless you are into exciting landings. Van's aft cg limit is right
on the money.
To your question...64 kts flaps reflex as noted above. We have elevator stops at
max range per plans which helps. We have to move stick aft a little quicker
to get it to break, but it will. Boy, we really love this plane!
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410660#410660
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question to no pwr clean stall speeds |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Mike Whisky wrote:
> I wanted to report the latest results of my stall testing we move the c.g. slowly
backwards to 115.2 (full fuel) and 2700 lbs MTOW. Whic. Would giv me a c.g.
of 116.18 ( low fuel).
> The plane flies until 69 KIAS but won't break into a stall. It is a "rocking
horse" ride down. From what I read others extropolate the numbers to 2700 lbs
and did tests with less weight but did anyone fly with 2700 lbs to a stall break
with reflex flaps (clean)?
>
> Mike
Our RV-10 cg range is 8.4-16.8" aft of wing leading edge. During our full gross
xc flights, our cg at takeoff is 15.93". With a 4.5 hr trip and 10 gal remaining
our cg is at 16.73". We don't recommend trying to squeeze anymore in the baggage
area unless you are into exciting landings. Van's aft cg limit is right
on the money.
To your question...64 kts flaps reflex as noted above. We have elevator stops at
max range per plans which helps. We have to move stick aft a little quicker
to get it to break, but it will. Boy, we really love this plane!
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410658#410658
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mechanical fuel pump pressure |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Mine runs 28-29 in cruise, 20-25 in a steep hot full power climb. Check actual
pressure with a gage setup.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410679#410679
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fairings-Etc Reply |
I will be unable to access my computer for a few days. My lady, Sonya, who does
all my computer things for me, will be gone for a few days starting on the 17th.
I will reply to your emails and orders starting on the 21th. If you need to
urgently speak with me directly before that date, please call me on my cell
phone: 623-203-09795.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Does some one from Lycoming happen to be on this list? |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
I tried to contact Lycoming via their we form twice and weeks have passed without
a reply. Does anyone from Lycoming happen to be on this list? Please PM me
or let me know a real Lycoming persons contact detail so I can get in touch with
them.
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410808#410808
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Does some one from Lycoming happen to be on this list? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Depending on what you need, there just be someone here that knows the
answer, has the manual or service bulletin you want, etc. Lycoming usually
depends on field reps to handle customer issues.
On Fri, Oct 18, 2013 at 6:14 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I tried to contact Lycoming via their we form twice and weeks have passed
> without a reply. Does anyone from Lycoming happen to be on this list?
> Please PM me or let me know a real Lycoming persons contact detail so I can
> get in touch with them.
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410808#410808
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate RV-10 Nest 2013 |
Myron;
We worked out some conflicts and plan to make it out there with another
person on Saturday. Been a few years since I went to your
=9Cfinal=9D Nest / carne asada, and look forward to it
again, with the plane this time.
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fairings-Etc Reply |
I will be unable to access my computer for a few days. My lady, Sonya, who does
all my computer things for me, will be gone for a few days starting on the 17th.
I will reply to your emails and orders starting on the 21th. If you need to
urgently speak with me directly before that date, please call me on my cell
phone: 623-203-09795.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest 2013 |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Thanks. Fed over 60 last year, but having a hard time getting a feel for turnout
this year.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=410878#410878
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fairings-Etc Reply |
I will be unable to access my computer for a few days. My lady, Sonya, who does
all my computer things for me, will be gone for a few days starting on the 17th.
I will reply to your emails and orders starting on the 21th. If you need to
urgently speak with me directly before that date, please call me on my cell
phone: 623-203-09795.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my first
flight. At the time, in the air, I wasn't quite sure what the issue may
have been. It was initially looking like a blocked fuel line. The symptom
was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly, but came back up with the
electric fuel pump turned on and switching the tanks. I promptly landed and
started looking for the root cause.
1. The left and right tank fuel flow (measured at the firewall,
forward of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/hour. Rules out a blockage
aft of the firewall.
2. The fuel vents are not obstructed
I ran the engine in a static test. Was getting about 20psi on the engine
fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump enabled. Since this
is all within specifications, this is the worst of all the scenarios. No
root cause and everything seems to be working as designed.
This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to
immediately drop. I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged the
electric fuel pump. With the electric fuel pump running, I was getting
26psi. I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel tanks during
the flight. Results were pretty consistent.
It's looking like I may have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW YIO-540-D4A5.
I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
My questions is there any other scenarios that I'm overlooking that may
yield similar symptoms?
Thanks,
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
With the info presented I think you're spot on. I agree with the call
to Lycoming .... they should ship you a new pump. Up to you to do the
R&R which has always been a PITA for me. My best guess is that there is
some small piece of trash (don't know what else to call it) hung up in
one of the valves.
Linn
On 10/20/2013 4:47 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my first
> flight. At the time, in the air, I wasn't quite sure what the issue
> may have been. It was initially looking like a blocked fuel line.
> The symptom was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly, but came
> back up with the electric fuel pump turned on and switching the
> tanks. I promptly landed and started looking for the root cause.
>
> 1.The left and right tank fuel flow (measured at the firewall, forward
> of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/hour. Rules out a blockage aft
> of the firewall.
>
> 2.The fuel vents are not obstructed
>
> I ran the engine in a static test. Was getting about 20psi on the
> engine fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump enabled.
> Since this is all within specifications, this is the worst of all the
> scenarios. No root cause and everything seems to be working as designed.
>
> This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
>
> When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to
> immediately drop. I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged
> the electric fuel pump. With the electric fuel pump running, I was
> getting 26psi. I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel
> tanks during the flight. Results were pretty consistent.
>
> It's looking like I may have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW
> YIO-540-D4A5. I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
>
> My questions is there any other scenarios that I'm overlooking that
> may yield similar symptoms?
>
> Thanks,
>
> bob
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Prop spinner cutouts |
I'm trying to determine the optimum cutout dimensions for the blades on
the 2 bladed Hartzell blended airfoil prop as Vans sells, using the
standard spinner kit. The instructions tell you to rotate the blades
thru full travel to check for clearance, however I don't have an engine
to mount the prop to yet, and it's not possible to move the blades
without one. I am trying to get as tight of fit as is possible. I have
looked at production airplane's installations, and they have a much
larger clearance than I would consider aesthetic. Has anyone made a
template or drawings that would provide the dimensions that I need?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
You could download your engine data from your EFIS, and look at both
fuel pressure and fuel flow simultaneously. I don't think there is an
issue with your fuel pressure sensor, but it would be good to see what
was happening on fuel flow at the same time pressure was dropping. The
mechanical pump is supposed to be able to handle up to -2 psi input, i.e
overcoming an uphill flow on the input side.
There is one other possibility. You could have a leak between the
electric pump and the mechanical pump. If that is the case, the
mechanical pump sucks air through the leak, which reduces the pressure
to the engine, while the electric pump will over come this.
Rule out the chance of an air leak between boost pump and mechanical
before assuming that mechanical pump is bad.
On 10/20/2013 2:46 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> With the info presented I think you're spot on. I agree with the call
> to Lycoming .... they should ship you a new pump. Up to you to do the
> R&R which has always been a PITA for me. My best guess is that there
> is some small piece of trash (don't know what else to call it) hung up
> in one of the valves.
> Linn
> On 10/20/2013 4:47 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my first
>> flight. At the time, in the air, I wasnt quite sure what the issue
>> may have been. It was initially looking like a blocked fuel line. The
>> symptom was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly, but came
>> back up with the electric fuel pump turned on and switching the
>> tanks. I promptly landed and started looking for the root cause.
>>
>> 1.The left and right tank fuel flow (measured at the firewall,
>> forward of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/hour. Rules out a
>> blockage aft of the firewall.
>>
>> 2.The fuel vents are not obstructed
>>
>> I ran the engine in a static test. Was getting about 20psi on the
>> engine fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump enabled.
>> Since this is all within specifications, this is the worst of all the
>> scenarios. No root cause and everything seems to be working as designed.
>>
>> This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
>>
>> When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to
>> immediately drop. I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged
>> the electric fuel pump. With the electric fuel pump running, I was
>> getting 26psi. I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel
>> tanks during the flight. Results were pretty consistent.
>>
>> Its looking like I may have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW
>> YIO-540-D4A5. I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
>>
>> My questions is there any other scenarios that Im overlooking that
>> may yield similar symptoms?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> bob
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>> 10/20/13
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Here's the Fuel Flow and Fuel Pressure overlaid. The dips are consistent
when I turned off the electric fuel pump. An interesting anomaly is that
the fuel pressure is higher during taxi with the boost pump off.
Finding a fuel leak is pretty straight forward, especially with the aid of
the blue dye. How do you find a connection that doesn't leak fuel, but does
allow air?
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
kellym(at)aviating.com>
You could download your engine data from your EFIS, and look at both fuel
pressure and fuel flow simultaneously. I don't think there is an issue with
your fuel pressure sensor, but it would be good to see what was happening on
fuel flow at the same time pressure was dropping. The mechanical pump is
supposed to be able to handle up to -2 psi input, i.e overcoming an uphill
flow on the input side.
There is one other possibility. You could have a leak between the electric
pump and the mechanical pump. If that is the case, the mechanical pump sucks
air through the leak, which reduces the pressure to the engine, while the
electric pump will over come this.
Rule out the chance of an air leak between boost pump and mechanical before
assuming that mechanical pump is bad.
On 10/20/2013 2:46 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> With the info presented I think you're spot on. I agree with the call
> to Lycoming .... they should ship you a new pump. Up to you to do the
> R&R which has always been a PITA for me. My best guess is that there
> is some small piece of trash (don't know what else to call it) hung up
> in one of the valves.
> Linn
> On 10/20/2013 4:47 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my first
>> flight. At the time, in the air, I wasn't quite sure what the issue
>> may have been. It was initially looking like a blocked fuel line. The
>> symptom was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly, but came
>> back up with the electric fuel pump turned on and switching the
>> tanks. I promptly landed and started looking for the root cause.
>>
>> 1.The left and right tank fuel flow (measured at the firewall,
>> forward of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/hour. Rules out a
>> blockage aft of the firewall.
>>
>> 2.The fuel vents are not obstructed
>>
>> I ran the engine in a static test. Was getting about 20psi on the
>> engine fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump enabled.
>> Since this is all within specifications, this is the worst of all the
>> scenarios. No root cause and everything seems to be working as designed.
>>
>> This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
>>
>> When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to
>> immediately drop. I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged
>> the electric fuel pump. With the electric fuel pump running, I was
>> getting 26psi. I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel
>> tanks during the flight. Results were pretty consistent.
>>
>> It's looking like I may have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW
>> YIO-540-D4A5. I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
>>
>> My questions is there any other scenarios that I'm overlooking that
>> may yield similar symptoms?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> bob
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - <http://www.avg.com> www.avg.com <
http://www.avg.com>
>> 10/20/13
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
Good point Kelly. I had an air leak in the fuel line between the tank
and wobble pump on my Pitts. It almost drove me nuts .... well, more
nuts! I couldn't see that the rudder pedal had worn a hole in the hard
line. My fault .... the result of poor repairs .... but it was really
difficult to find since the problem .... engine surged like an old
Sopwith .... because the rudder pedal would cover the hole and 'fix' the
problem!!! The leaking fuel was so slight that it evaporated and left
no smell. Good call!
Linn
On 10/20/2013 6:37 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> You could download your engine data from your EFIS, and look at both
> fuel pressure and fuel flow simultaneously. I don't think there is an
> issue with your fuel pressure sensor, but it would be good to see what
> was happening on fuel flow at the same time pressure was dropping. The
> mechanical pump is supposed to be able to handle up to -2 psi input,
> i.e overcoming an uphill flow on the input side.
> There is one other possibility. You could have a leak between the
> electric pump and the mechanical pump. If that is the case, the
> mechanical pump sucks air through the leak, which reduces the pressure
> to the engine, while the electric pump will over come this.
> Rule out the chance of an air leak between boost pump and mechanical
> before assuming that mechanical pump is bad.
>
> On 10/20/2013 2:46 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>> With the info presented I think you're spot on. I agree with the call
>> to Lycoming .... they should ship you a new pump. Up to you to do the
>> R&R which has always been a PITA for me. My best guess is that there
>> is some small piece of trash (don't know what else to call it) hung
>> up in one of the valves.
>> Linn
>> On 10/20/2013 4:47 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>
>>> As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my
>>> first flight. At the time, in the air, I wasnt quite sure what the
>>> issue may have been. It was initially looking like a blocked fuel
>>> line. The symptom was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly,
>>> but came back up with the electric fuel pump turned on and switching
>>> the tanks. I promptly landed and started looking for the root cause.
>>>
>>> 1.The left and right tank fuel flow (measured at the firewall,
>>> forward of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/hour. Rules out a
>>> blockage aft of the firewall.
>>>
>>> 2.The fuel vents are not obstructed
>>>
>>> I ran the engine in a static test. Was getting about 20psi on the
>>> engine fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump
>>> enabled. Since this is all within specifications, this is the worst
>>> of all the scenarios. No root cause and everything seems to be
>>> working as designed.
>>>
>>> This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
>>>
>>> When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to
>>> immediately drop. I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged
>>> the electric fuel pump. With the electric fuel pump running, I was
>>> getting 26psi. I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel
>>> tanks during the flight. Results were pretty consistent.
>>>
>>> Its looking like I may have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW
>>> YIO-540-D4A5. I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
>>>
>>> My questions is there any other scenarios that Im overlooking that
>>> may yield similar symptoms?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> bob
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>>> 10/20/13
>>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | speckter(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
Si nce you can't reproduce this on the ground I am wondering if you have an
airflow created vacuum on the tank vents.=C2- I may be all wet, but if t
here is a difference between flight and ground, it shouldn't be a mechanica
l problem.
Gary Specketer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>n't
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 4:47:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my first fligh
t.=C2- At the time, in the air, I wasn=99t quite sure what the issu
e may have been.=C2- It was initially looking like a blocked fuel line.
=C2- The symptom was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly, but ca
me back up with the electric fuel pump turned on and switching the tanks.
=C2- I promptly landed and started looking for the root cause.
=C2-
1. =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The left and right tank fuel flow (
measured at the firewall, forward of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/ho
ur.=C2- Rules out a blockage aft of the firewall.
2. =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The fuel vents are not obstructed
=C2-
I ran the engine in a static test.=C2-=C2- Was getting about 20psi on t
he engine fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump enabled.=C2
- Since this is all within specifications, this is the worst of all the s
cenarios.=C2- No root cause and everything seems to be working as designe
d.
=C2-
This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
=C2-
When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to immediat
ely drop.=C2- I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged the electr
ic fuel pump.=C2- With the electric fuel pump running, I was getting 26ps
i.=C2- I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel tanks during
the flight.=C2- Results were pretty consistent.
=C2-
It=99s looking like I may=C2- have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW Y
IO-540-D4A5.=C2- I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
=C2-
My questions is there any other scenarios that I=99m overlooking that
may yield similar symptoms?
=C2-
Thanks,
=C2-
bob
=C2-
============
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
So in summary you get good fuel pressure from the mechanical pump on the
ground in a static run up, and low fuel pressure flying. The main
difference between these too conditions is the actual fuel flow (low for the
static test, high for flying). Additionally your testing ruled out typical
fuel line issues.
I agree the most obvious suspect is the mechanical fuel pump. I'd guess
leaking around the pump diaphragm that at low fuel flow is not enough to
drop pressure, but at high flow the leak around the diaphragm increases
equivalent total fuel flow so pressure drops..
Just my guess - but I agree with you calling Lycoming for a new mechanical
pump.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
Here's the Fuel Flow and Fuel Pressure overlaid. The dips are consistent
when I turned off the electric fuel pump. An interesting anomaly is that
the fuel pressure is higher during taxi with the boost pump off.
Finding a fuel leak is pretty straight forward, especially with the aid of
the blue dye. How do you find a connection that doesn't leak fuel, but does
allow air?
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
kellym(at)aviating.com>
You could download your engine data from your EFIS, and look at both fuel
pressure and fuel flow simultaneously. I don't think there is an issue with
your fuel pressure sensor, but it would be good to see what was happening on
fuel flow at the same time pressure was dropping. The mechanical pump is
supposed to be able to handle up to -2 psi input, i.e overcoming an uphill
flow on the input side.
There is one other possibility. You could have a leak between the electric
pump and the mechanical pump. If that is the case, the mechanical pump sucks
air through the leak, which reduces the pressure to the engine, while the
electric pump will over come this.
Rule out the chance of an air leak between boost pump and mechanical before
assuming that mechanical pump is bad.
On 10/20/2013 2:46 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> With the info presented I think you're spot on. I agree with the call
> to Lycoming .... they should ship you a new pump. Up to you to do the
> R&R which has always been a PITA for me. My best guess is that there
> is some small piece of trash (don't know what else to call it) hung up
> in one of the valves.
> Linn
> On 10/20/2013 4:47 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my first
>> flight. At the time, in the air, I wasn't quite sure what the issue
>> may have been. It was initially looking like a blocked fuel line. The
>> symptom was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly, but came
>> back up with the electric fuel pump turned on and switching the
>> tanks. I promptly landed and started looking for the root cause.
>>
>> 1.The left and right tank fuel flow (measured at the firewall,
>> forward of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/hour. Rules out a
>> blockage aft of the firewall.
>>
>> 2.The fuel vents are not obstructed
>>
>> I ran the engine in a static test. Was getting about 20psi on the
>> engine fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump enabled.
>> Since this is all within specifications, this is the worst of all the
>> scenarios. No root cause and everything seems to be working as designed.
>>
>> This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
>>
>> When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to
>> immediately drop. I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged
>> the electric fuel pump. With the electric fuel pump running, I was
>> getting 26psi. I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel
>> tanks during the flight. Results were pretty consistent.
>>
>> It's looking like I may have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW
>> YIO-540-D4A5. I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
>>
>> My questions is there any other scenarios that I'm overlooking that
>> may yield similar symptoms?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> bob
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - <http://www.avg.com> www.avg.com <
http://www.avg.com>
>> 10/20/13
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
On the ground, throttle and mixture full aft, idle cutoff; turn on
electric pump with tunnel open and cowling off. After pressure comes up,
look for leaks. Anything that lets in air under suction will leak under
pressure. Ideally a couple observers, one in reach of the switch to kill
pressure as soon as leak is spotted.
On 10/20/2013 3:45 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Heres the Fuel Flow and Fuel Pressure overlaid. The dips are
> consistent when I turned off the electric fuel pump. An interesting
> anomaly is that the fuel pressure is higher during taxi with the boost
> pump off.
>
> Finding a fuel leak is pretty straight forward, especially with the
> aid of the blue dye. How do you find a connection that doesnt leak
> fuel, but does allow air?
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:37 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
>
> >
>
> You could download your engine data from your EFIS, and look at both
> fuel pressure and fuel flow simultaneously. I don't think there is an
> issue with your fuel pressure sensor, but it would be good to see what
> was happening on fuel flow at the same time pressure was dropping. The
> mechanical pump is supposed to be able to handle up to -2 psi input,
> i.e overcoming an uphill flow on the input side.
>
> There is one other possibility. You could have a leak between the
> electric pump and the mechanical pump. If that is the case, the
> mechanical pump sucks air through the leak, which reduces the pressure
> to the engine, while the electric pump will over come this.
>
> Rule out the chance of an air leak between boost pump and mechanical
> before assuming that mechanical pump is bad.
>
> On 10/20/2013 2:46 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> > With the info presented I think you're spot on. I agree with the call
>
> > to Lycoming .... they should ship you a new pump. Up to you to do the
>
> > R&R which has always been a PITA for me. My best guess is that there
>
> > is some small piece of trash (don't know what else to call it) hung up
>
> > in one of the valves.
>
> > Linn
>
> > On 10/20/2013 4:47 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >> As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my first
>
> >> flight. At the time, in the air, I wasnt quite sure what the issue
>
> >> may have been. It was initially looking like a blocked fuel line. The
>
> >> symptom was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly, but came
>
> >> back up with the electric fuel pump turned on and switching the
>
> >> tanks. I promptly landed and started looking for the root cause.
>
> >>
>
> >> 1.The left and right tank fuel flow (measured at the firewall,
>
> >> forward of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/hour. Rules out a
>
> >> blockage aft of the firewall.
>
> >>
>
> >> 2.The fuel vents are not obstructed
>
> >>
>
> >> I ran the engine in a static test. Was getting about 20psi on the
>
> >> engine fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump enabled.
>
> >> Since this is all within specifications, this is the worst of all the
>
> >> scenarios. No root cause and everything seems to be working as
> designed.
>
> >>
>
> >> This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
>
> >>
>
> >> When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to
>
> >> immediately drop. I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged
>
> >> the electric fuel pump. With the electric fuel pump running, I was
>
> >> getting 26psi. I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel
>
> >> tanks during the flight. Results were pretty consistent.
>
> >>
>
> >> Its looking like I may have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW
>
> >> YIO-540-D4A5. I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
>
> >>
>
> >> My questions is there any other scenarios that Im overlooking that
>
> >> may yield similar symptoms?
>
> >>
>
> >> Thanks,
>
> >>
>
> >> bob
>
> >>
>
> >> *
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> *
>
> >>
>
> >> No virus found in this message.
>
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
> >> 10/20/13
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> > *
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > *
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
The likely culprit does sound like the fuel pump, although the fact that
all is well on the ground is interesting. My first project was a Q-2
and when I upgraded from the VW engine to an O-200 I had lots of fuel
starvation issues. After an eternity I chased it down to the fact that
when I had to modify the shape of the cowl it created an area of
negative pressure at the fuel vent. While not too likely your issue,
I'd make sure you have your vents as directed in the plans. Even
something as simple as having the angled cutoff facing the wrong way
could make for interesting problems.
Good luck,
Marcus
On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:11 PM, speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
Since you can't reproduce this on the ground I am wondering if you have
an airflow created vacuum on the tank vents. I may be all wet, but if
there is a difference between flight and ground, it shouldn't be a
mechanical problem.
Gary Specketer
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>n't
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 4:47:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
As several already are aware, I had some fuel flow issues on my first
flight. At the time, in the air, I wasn=92t quite sure what the issue
may have been. It was initially looking like a blocked fuel line. The
symptom was that the fuel pressure dropped significantly, but came back
up with the electric fuel pump turned on and switching the tanks. I
promptly landed and started looking for the root cause.
1. The left and right tank fuel flow (measured at the firewall,
forward of the filter and pump) was 58 gallons/hour. Rules out a
blockage aft of the firewall.
2. The fuel vents are not obstructed
I ran the engine in a static test. Was getting about 20psi on the
engine fuel pump and about 26psi with the electric fuel pump enabled.
Since this is all within specifications, this is the worst of all the
scenarios. No root cause and everything seems to be working as
designed.
This morning I flew for about an hour on flight #2.
When I turned off the electric fuel pump, fuel pressure started to
immediately drop. I let it drop to about 10psi before I re-engaged the
electric fuel pump. With the electric fuel pump running, I was getting
26psi. I repeated this scenario multiple times on both fuel tanks
during the flight. Results were pretty consistent.
It=92s looking like I may have a bad fuel pump on this 1 SNEW
YIO-540-D4A5. I plan on giving Lycoming a call in the morning.
My questions is there any other scenarios that I=92m overlooking that
may yield similar symptoms?
Thanks,
bob
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Prop spinner cutouts |
The attached was floating around the archives at some point. I cannot attest
to how well it would work. Also I would advise just waiting until all is on
the plane and an actual sweep of the blades can be down.
-Chris
N919AR
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Prop spinner cutouts
I'm trying to determine the optimum cutout dimensions for the blades on the
2 bladed Hartzell blended airfoil prop as Vans sells, using the standard
spinner kit. The instructions tell you to rotate the blades thru full travel
to check for clearance, however I don't have an engine to mount the prop to
yet, and it's not possible to move the blades without one. I am trying to
get as tight of fit as is possible. I have looked at production airplane's
installations, and they have a much larger clearance than I would consider
aesthetic. Has anyone made a template or drawings that would provide the
dimensions that I need?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop spinner cutouts |
Chris, I made a plate that allowed me to use compressed air via a
regulator to move the blades on the prop. then used cardboard to make
the template. See the following web album for the details.
I=99d be willing to share the plate I made that=99s shown in
the album.
https://plus.google.com/photos/102955683430141812381/albums/5303216259724
767969
Bob Newman
N541RV
From: Chris Hukill
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Prop spinner cutouts
I'm trying to determine the optimum cutout dimensions for the blades on
the 2 bladed Hartzell blended airfoil prop as Vans sells, using the
standard spinner kit. The instructions tell you to rotate the blades
thru full travel to check for clearance, however I don't have an engine
to mount the prop to yet, and it's not possible to move the blades
without one. I am trying to get as tight of fit as is possible. I have
looked at production airplane's installations, and they have a much
larger clearance than I would consider aesthetic. Has anyone made a
template or drawings that would provide the dimensions that I need?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fairings-Etc Reply |
I will be unable to access my computer for a few days. My lady, Sonya, who does
all my computer things for me, will be gone for a few days starting on the 17th.
I will reply to your emails and orders starting on the 21th. If you need to
urgently speak with me directly before that date, please call me on my cell
phone: 623-203-09795.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prop spinner cutouts |
| From: | Karol Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
Chris,
Just to let you know the pressure on the blades can be overcome carefully, and
by hand, and not damaging the prop. If you place the prop assy with the studs
downward onto a soft surface like carpet, one person can apply a twisting motion
pressure on one blade and another person can apply the opposite twisting motion
on the other blade - again just using your clean hands. Give it constant
firm twisting pressure and you will feel and see the blades begin to turn as
they would in motion on the crank being affected by governor/oil pressure.
Now mind you no 5 year old will be able to do this, as it does take some firm
twisting, but you can do it! Once they start to twist keep the motion going until
they bottom out on the stops - you will feel that it has stopped. Now the
hard part! Hold the blades in this position and mark your reference points
on all your parts. If you relax your pressure, the blades will just return by
themselves to their initial position. If this happens, no worries, just do the
procedure again and know what to expect next time! I would recommend that
you perform this procedure as close to the center of the prop assy as possible
(not at the outboard tip of the blades), as in the closer to the hub you grab,
the better. So again, two people is easier - soft surfaces like carpet to protect
all surfaces of your nice new prop (keep the plastic protection on the
blades, just move them back a bit for visual spinner clearance check) - twist
opposite until the stops are felt and hold it there - make your marks - go cut
- put back on and test it. Tape off all surfaces on the blades so as not to
scratch anything while you are test fitting.
Your other option is as someone else said - wait until it is mounted on the engine,
then the above is even easier.
Your other option is as Bob (TCW) said - controlled Air Pressure applied to the
input (aft) side of the hub. He has a good pic showing what he did on his site
..
Good Luck!
Rich Hansen
> From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Prop spinner cutouts
>
> I'm trying to determine the optimum cutout dimensions for the blades on
> the 2 bladed Hartzell blended airfoil prop as Vans sells, using the
> standard spinner kit. The instructions tell you to rotate the blades
> thru full travel to check for clearance, however I don't have an engine
> to mount the prop to yet, and it's not possible to move the blades
> without one. I am trying to get as tight of fit as is possible. I have
> looked at production airplane's installations, and they have a much
> larger clearance than I would consider aesthetic. Has anyone made a
> template or drawings that would provide the dimensions that I need?
> Chris Hukill
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
Is there some reason I can't find the Bonaco Standard RV10DBL kit on
their web site. A search turns up 0 items.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Web Site |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I don't think they have ever had it there. Just call and ask for RV-10
brake kit. Just decide whether you want both from resevoir to all master
cylinders, any any the tunnel, or just fuselage to brake calipers. They
have dimensions for all of that.
On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Dave Fritzsche (Building) <
dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> wrote:
> dfritz(at)bpgsim.com>
>
> Is there some reason I can't find the Bonaco Standard RV10DBL kit on their
> web site. A search turns up 0 items.
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Wings
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Web Site |
Give Tom a call at TSFlightlines
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 21, 2013, at 3:58 PM, "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" wrote:
Is there some reason I can't find the Bonaco Standard RV10DBL kit on their web
site. A search turns up 0 items.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to Lycoming,
they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I am just outside
the warranty period.
They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an approved substitute
for the installed part, which is a LW15473. Anyone know what the difference
may be?
Bob
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
Looks like Lycoming has approved that part number. Have no idea the
difference. Maybe different vendor?
On 10/21/2013 4:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to Lycoming,
they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I am just outside
the warranty period.
>
> They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an approved substitute
for the installed part, which is a LW15473. Anyone know what the difference
may be?
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Lycoming is notorious for part number changes. Any time they change a
vendor they change a P/N. Tempest makes the pump also. Call Justin at
Quality Aircraft Acc.
Allen Barrett
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to
Lycoming, they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I
am just outside the warranty period.
They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an
approved substitute for the installed part, which is a LW15473. Anyone
know what the difference may be?
Bob
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
Seems rather poor customer service to sell an experimental engine, that
they know won't be put into service for many months after the sale, if
not a year or so, to not cover a fuel pump that only has an hour or two
of actual operation.
On 10/22/2013 5:39 AM, BPA wrote:
>
> Lycoming is notorious for part number changes. Any time they change a
> vendor they change a P/N. Tempest makes the pump also. Call Justin at
> Quality Aircraft Acc.
>
> Allen Barrett
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 5:55 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
>
>
> After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to
> Lycoming, they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I
> am just outside the warranty period.
>
> They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an
> approved substitute for the installed part, which is a LW15473. Anyone
> know what the difference may be?
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Allen,
Any opinion on the differences between the Lycoming part and the Tempest? The
Tempest is $100 less expensive.
Thanks,
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:39 AM, "BPA" wrote:
>
>
> Lycoming is notorious for part number changes. Any time they change a
> vendor they change a P/N. Tempest makes the pump also. Call Justin at
> Quality Aircraft Acc.
>
> Allen Barrett
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 5:55 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
>
>
> After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to
> Lycoming, they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I
> am just outside the warranty period.
>
> They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an
> approved substitute for the installed part, which is a LW15473. Anyone
> know what the difference may be?
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
They seem to work just fine in the test cell and I haven't heard of any
field issues.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
Allen,
Any opinion on the differences between the Lycoming part and the
Tempest? The Tempest is $100 less expensive.
Thanks,
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:39 AM, "BPA" wrote:
>
>
> Lycoming is notorious for part number changes. Any time they change a
> vendor they change a P/N. Tempest makes the pump also. Call Justin at
> Quality Aircraft Acc.
>
> Allen Barrett
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 5:55 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
>
>
> After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to
> Lycoming, they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I
> am just outside the warranty period.
>
> They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an
> approved substitute for the installed part, which is a LW15473.
Anyone
> know what the difference may be?
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Your guess is as good as any. Lycomng platinum gold dust sprinkled on the
paperwork?
Go with the Tempest and spend the difference on 100LL/
On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 7:26 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Allen,
>
> Any opinion on the differences between the Lycoming part and the Tempest?
> The Tempest is $100 less expensive.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:39 AM, "BPA" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Lycoming is notorious for part number changes. Any time they change a
> > vendor they change a P/N. Tempest makes the pump also. Call Justin at
> > Quality Aircraft Acc.
> >
> > Allen Barrett
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> > Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 5:55 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
> >
> >
> > After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to
> > Lycoming, they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I
> > am just outside the warranty period.
> >
> > They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an
> > approved substitute for the installed part, which is a LW15473. Anyone
> > know what the difference may be?
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
Geez Kelly what do you expect for $45,800... decent customer service? :-).
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
Seems rather poor customer service to sell an experimental engine, that they
know won't be put into service for many months after the sale, if not a year
or so, to not cover a fuel pump that only has an hour or two of actual
operation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Well, I'm sure it would drive Lyc into bankruptcy to warrant that $200 pump.
On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 9:50 AM, Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> Geez Kelly what do you expect for $45,800... decent customer service? :-).
>
> -Ben
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 7:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Pump Issue
>
>
> Seems rather poor customer service to sell an experimental engine, that
> they
> know won't be put into service for many months after the sale, if not a
> year
> or so, to not cover a fuel pump that only has an hour or two of actual
> operation.
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Just an update.......
I sent off all the engine monitor data to Lycoming. They think it's the fuel pump.
Fortunately, they authorized a warranty repair.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bonanco brake lines |
Phil Perry and Gordon Anderson,
I am ready to order fuel and brake lines and was impressed with your
installations and Gordon's description he put together in pdf. Gordon,
do the measurements you show in the table take into account shortening
the two lines that Phil referred to in his U-tube video? Have you put
your wings on yet to verify those connections? Anything either of you
would change if you had it to do over?
Dave
On 1/24/2012 9:24 AM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
> Having an intense fear of flaring, I chose to replace all the aluminum and plastic
tubing with Bonaco lines.
>
> I was very impressed by Phil Perry's installation and copied it, with some slight
modifications. For anyone interested, the attached document shows the results.
There is a table at the end of the document with the hose sizes, lengths,
fittings and clocking not only for the standard Bonaco RV-10 set but also
for the tunnel brake and fuel hoses. Note the caveat on the fuel lines from the
tanks - I haven't yet had the wings on to verify the length and clocking but
as far as I can see they are good! As for the rest I am happy with the result.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gordon Anderson
> 41015, Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop spinner cutouts |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Chris
Lycoming can issue you with the correct cut out template. I don't have it on
my iPad, however ill send it to you once I'm on my computer.
Warm regards
Patrick Pulis
> On 21 Oct 2013, at 8:33, "Chris Hukill" wrote:
>
> I'm trying to determine the optimum cutout dimensions for the blades on th
e 2 bladed Hartzell blended airfoil prop as Vans sells, using the standard s
pinner kit. The instructions tell you to rotate the blades thru full travel t
o check for clearance, however I don't have an engine to mount the prop to y
et, and it's not possible to move the blades without one. I am trying to get
as tight of fit as is possible. I have looked at production airplane's inst
allations, and they have a much larger clearance than I would consider aesth
etic. Has anyone made a template or drawings that would provide the dimensio
September 09, 2013 - October 24, 2013
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-jn