RV10-Archive.digest.vol-js
April 07, 2014 - May 27, 2014
that day! Normally with the systems that have voice warnings, they don't
all start yelling at you when you first boot up the system though...
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 2:26 PM
| Subject: | Re: Which EFIS (was Garmin Touch screen) |
Stein,
Although I usually agree with you, not this time. Between the flashing
master caution light (which is really bright) and the the flashing red on
the screen(s) (whether it's oil pressure, CHT, etc.) I don't see how anyone
could ignore the engine warnings, and I do not want a voice yelling at me
"oil pressure, oil pressure" if I boot up the EIS (which I do) prior to
engine start.
OTOH, the one audio warning they do need is for angle of attack, since the
most critical time (landing approach) is also when you are concentrating the
most out the windscreen. The D-6 variable warning tone is perfect in this
regard.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421735#421735
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jack(at)bedfordlandings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Planning to order the QB fuselage and wings at AirVenture |
Tal,
I would suggest you keep an eye out for a good deal on an engine (unless you
are planning on buying a new engine). I was able to find a very good deal
on an O-540-A1D5 from a Piper Aztec on eBay a couple of years ago. The
engine has 60 hours SMOH and I got it, the logs, and the entire firewall
forward assembly from the Aztec (including alterhator, starter and vacuum
pump) for $13,000.
I had planned to buy a core of an IO-540 for about $12K and then put $15K in
new parts in it, overhauling it myself. Even though I wasn't sure what I
was getting with this eBay purchase, I felt it was worth it for the money
just to have as a core. I was surprised and pleased to see that it was
better than advertized, with new Millenium Cylinders, new Slick mags and
good shops used for the overhaul. So good deals are out there - you just
need to look for them
Now I just need to get back to work on the project.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
Wings and Tail done. Need to buy the Fuselage Kit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Planning to order the QB fuselage and wings at
AirVenture
Hi Tal,
As Carl said, order avionics last. They change so fast that anything you buy
today will be obsolete before you fly. Also - contrary to everything else -
they are becoming less expensive or more capable (your choice).
As he noted, you may save a few dollars shipping if you order the finish kit
(same kit, slow or quick build) with the QB wings and fuselage. But you will
need storage space for it. In the past (2008) the QB fuselage and wings
could have backlogs as long as 4 months. Call Vans and ask for the current
status (I think it's on their web site but may not be the latest info).
Finally, the engine. What is your plan? If you were hoping to find a good
used one they are rare, you just have to watch constantly. If an overhaul,
ask your overhauler about lead times and time to find a useable core. If
factory new, you have a choice. These things have been inflating faster than
the stock market, so you may consider buying it and the prop (Vans offers a
$1K discount if you buy both at the same time) during this year's
OSH/AirVenture. They usually have a special, like free shipping and free
long term preservation oil. Otherwise, engine lead times are a few months.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421714#421714
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Orth" <mosurf(at)xplornet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Planning to order the QB fuselage and wings at AirVenture |
FOR SALE
3 ENGINES & 1 PROP
ENGINE #1-RIGHT
CONTINENTAL 10-470L
S/N 91968-5-L
TTSO 1489.8
COMPLETE ENGINE & PROPELLER PITCH CONTROL.
COMPLETE LOGS.
REMOVED FROM BEECHCRAFT BARON THAT LANDED GEAR-UP. INCIDENT HAS NOT BEEN
ENTERED INTO ENGINE LOG.
OIL DRAINED AND SHOWED NO SIGN OF CONTAMINATION.
OIL-PAN DROPPED AND VISUAL INSPECTION SHOWED NO SIGN OF DAMAGE.
MY FEELING IS THAT THIS ENGINE DID NOT SUFFER ANY DAMAGE AS THE RESULT
OF THE ACCIDENT.
COULD BE USED IN A/C, AIRBOAT, OR HOVERCRAFT.
PRICE $5,000 USD; YOU PAY SHIPPING.
ENGINE #2-LEFT
CONTINENTAL 10-470L
S/N 91945-5-L
TTSO 1457.8
COMPLETE ENGINE & PROPELLER PITCH CONTROL.
COMPLETE LOGS
REMOVED FROM BEECHCRAFT BARON THAT LANDED GEAR-UP. INCIDENT HAS NOT
BEEN ENTERED INTO ENGINE LOG.
OIL DRAINED AND SHOWED NO SIGN OF CONTAMINATION.
OIL-PAN DROPPED AND VISUAL INSPECTION SHOWED NO SIGN OF DAMAGE.
MY FEELING IS THAT THIS ENGINE DID NOT SUFFER ANY DAMAGE AS THE RESULT
OF THE ACCIDENT.
COULD BE USED IN A/C, AIRBOAT, OR HOVERCRAFT.
PRICE $5,000 USD; YOU PAY SHIPPING.
ENGINE #3
LYCOMING IO-540 G1D5
S/N L-9927-48
TTSO 5.43
COMPLETE LOGS
PROP #1
HARTZELL HC-92WK-1DW
TTSO 2.12
S/N S/N AC-206
PRICE-ENGINE & PROP $18,000 USD. YOU PAY SHIPPING.
THIS IS HOW THE ENGINE WAS DESCRIBED TO ME:
=9C. purchased the engine and prop from Westair
International Company, Monument, CO 80132 Jim Cullen is the owner. (719)
481-2286 He sold a number of these engines and was recommended to me by
Murphy. They thought this was a perfect engine for their plane. I called
a fellow who bought one from him to check up on his transaction. He was
very pleased with Jim and the engine and prop. (His name is John
Knutson, Chicago, (312) 642 0335 home (312) 383 1300 x 104 work) I
believe he was putting it into his homebuilt. I haven't talked to him in
ten years so I don't know if the numbers are still good. The engine
arrived as promised and is complete with magnetos, harness, fuel pump,
Bendix injection system, alternator and starter. It is preserved, and
includes platinum spark plugs (not installed--the plug holes have the
things in them that absorb moisture--I can't remember what they are
called!) There are three tech manuals also. It is still in the shipping
crate which has always been in my heated shop. I looked in it today and
it looks good. The IO-540 G1D5 engine serial number is L-9927-48. It is
rated as 290 HP, max rpm 2575. The Hartzell Propeller Model HC-92WK-1DW
S/N AC-206 The engine has a total of 799.22 hours since new. It has 5.43
hours since overhaul. The propeller has a total of 731.12 with 2.12
since overhaul. There are two complete log books for the engine and one
for the propeller.
My concern before buying was that they came out of an IAR 823 airplane
which was a plane used by the Romanian Air Force! (I Googled it and it
looks like a Mooney to me.) I checked with several engine building
people (including the company that overhauled my Cessna engine) who told
me the overhaul facility in Romania is noted for quality services. (BOAC
had them do all their engine maintenance.) A fellow on the Murphy group,
George Coy (who now sells M14P radials and was building a Moose--put
this IO-540 in his plane. I asked him why not use one of his radials and
he said he was going to put it on floats in Vermont and could not have
any oil dripping into their pristine lakes. I guess coffee cans wired
under the jugs does not meet environmental standards for catching 100%
of the oil!
The log books are all in Romanian but I had someone go over them with me
(they spoke Romanian) and they are very detailed and complete. I was
going to sit down with this person and rewrite each entry but haven't
yet. I got a new English engine log from Jim Cullen--I'm not sure it is
really necessary to translate the old ones. I feel comfortable with the
accuracy of the logs and the work that has been done. A mechanic where I
get my Cessna serviced was interested in using the engine for his tow
plane--checked out the engine and logs, said it looked good but then
found his mounts or something were different and it wouldn't fit. He
offered my $20,000 for it! (I should have paid for his new mounts!) Hope
this is the info you needed--I think it is the right motor for the
Murphy. I've watched a friend mess with a M14 radial in his Moose but
his struggles with the cowl, oil leaks, air start, parts, mounts and
extra fuel burn, etc. etc. convinced me a good old 290 HP Lycoming was
what I felt most comfortable with.=9D
Michael Orth
Beaver Valley, British Columbia, Canada
mosurf(at)xplornet.com
(250) 243-0013
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Phillips
Sent: Monday, April 7, 2014 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Planning to order the QB fuselage and wings
at AirVenture
Tal,
I would suggest you keep an eye out for a good deal on an engine (unless
you
are planning on buying a new engine). I was able to find a very good
deal
on an O-540-A1D5 from a Piper Aztec on eBay a couple of years ago. The
engine has 60 hours SMOH and I got it, the logs, and the entire firewall
forward assembly from the Aztec (including alterhator, starter and
vacuum
pump) for $13,000.
I had planned to buy a core of an IO-540 for about $12K and then put
$15K in
new parts in it, overhauling it myself. Even though I wasn't sure what
I
was getting with this eBay purchase, I felt it was worth it for the
money
just to have as a core. I was surprised and pleased to see that it was
better than advertized, with new Millenium Cylinders, new Slick mags and
good shops used for the overhaul. So good deals are out there - you
just
need to look for them
Now I just need to get back to work on the project.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
Wings and Tail done. Need to buy the Fuselage Kit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Planning to order the QB fuselage and wings at
AirVenture
Hi Tal,
As Carl said, order avionics last. They change so fast that anything you
buy
today will be obsolete before you fly. Also - contrary to everything
else -
they are becoming less expensive or more capable (your choice).
As he noted, you may save a few dollars shipping if you order the finish
kit
(same kit, slow or quick build) with the QB wings and fuselage. But you
will
need storage space for it. In the past (2008) the QB fuselage and wings
could have backlogs as long as 4 months. Call Vans and ask for the
current
status (I think it's on their web site but may not be the latest info).
Finally, the engine. What is your plan? If you were hoping to find a
good
used one they are rare, you just have to watch constantly. If an
overhaul,
ask your overhauler about lead times and time to find a useable core. If
factory new, you have a choice. These things have been inflating faster
than
the stock market, so you may consider buying it and the prop (Vans
offers a
$1K discount if you buy both at the same time) during this year's
OSH/AirVenture. They usually have a special, like free shipping and free
long term preservation oil. Otherwise, engine lead times are a few
months.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421714#421714
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Planning to order the QB fuselage and wings at AirVenture |
This engine will create a weight and balance problem for you. It has
angle valve cylinders which weigh approx 8 lbs more percylinder than the
parallel valve engines, or almost 50 lbs extra on the front of the
plane. 290 hp well exceeds Vans maximum hp for the airframe. It is a
high compression engine meaning nothing less than 100LL is sufficient.
Get the descriptions of all Lyc parallel valve engines so that you know
which ones are acceptable and won't need a lot of changes to fit.
I can send you a spreadsheet with that info,
On 4/7/2014 1:38 PM, Michael Orth wrote:
> IO-540 G1D5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 Measurements for PowerTow Tug |
I am planning on ordering the 65ez tug from PowerTow. They asked for certain measurements
for the width, and attachment configuration. Has anyone ordered a
tug from them that can provide the measurements to me as I am currently 1000
miles away from my aircraft and wont be able to get the measurements for about
2 weeks.
By the way any comments , good or bad, on PowerTow are appreciated.
Thanks
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Measurements for PowerTow Tug |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
See attached for what I sent them.
On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 5:36 PM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
>
> I am planning on ordering the 65ez tug from PowerTow. They asked for
> certain measurements for the width, and attachment configuration. Has
> anyone ordered a tug from them that can provide the measurements to me as I
> am currently 1000 miles away from my aircraft and wont be able to get the
> measurements for about 2 weeks.
>
> By the way any comments , good or bad, on PowerTow are appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Niko
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Sam: I sent an email direct to your address but have no reply. BTW, Sunday,
I landed at Montgomery, CA (KMYF) for the brunch at 94th Aero Squadron
there. Coming in I noticed an RV-10 leaving, is it anyone on the list?
Couldn't see the tail no. but it was a nice looking plane.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ospreysammy
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2014 6:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 in Yuma?
Fellow builders and fliers, I am going to be in Yuma, AZ for the next few
weeks and if there are any builders in the area I would like to meet up and
see your project if you don't mind. Thank you for your time.
--------
Sam Clark
Builder # 40972
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which EFIS (was Garmin Touch screen) |
...there are voice warnings? !!!
I need to get out more. I've been flying for 2.5 years and my panel is
at least 4 years old/behind so...
From an IFR backup perspective, the separate AP can be a very good
thing. It's easy to overlook but probably one of the most useful backup
tools and modes.
I've got 3 GRT HXs and the fact that their doc has been so far behind
had been a frustration but not sure it's really all that different than
the 'fully' doc'd Garmin G400/500 series. You can't really fly them
effectively until you've done a deep dive in Youtube for the many
tutorials on how to really exploit the features. Garmin certainly
didn't provide the support - maybe that's different with the newer
stuff. In GRT's case, never hesitate to call Carlos with a question.
He KNOWS the answer.
On the plus side, I've consistently found GRTs software updates rich in
new functions and yet rock solid and stable in operation despite the
warnings. That's a very good thing.
Putting together one's panel is an awful lot fun.
On 4/7/2014 3:56 PM, Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> I can buy that reasoning and also respect that position. There are times
> when I dislike "lola" scolding me, but then there are other times when I'm
> cruising along not looking at the panel where I find it a help. I find it
> useful to at least be able to turn her/him on or off depending on how I feel
> that day! Normally with the systems that have voice warnings, they don't
> all start yelling at you when you first boot up the system though...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Stein
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
> Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 2:26 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Which EFIS (was Garmin Touch screen)
>
>
> Stein,
>
> Although I usually agree with you, not this time. Between the flashing
> master caution light (which is really bright) and the the flashing red on
> the screen(s) (whether it's oil pressure, CHT, etc.) I don't see how anyone
> could ignore the engine warnings, and I do not want a voice yelling at me
> "oil pressure, oil pressure" if I boot up the EIS (which I do) prior to
> engine start.
>
> OTOH, the one audio warning they do need is for angle of attack, since the
> most critical time (landing approach) is also when you are concentrating the
> most out the windscreen. The D-6 variable warning tone is perfect in this
> regard.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421735#421735
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neal George <ngeorge(at)continentalmotors.aero> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: SL30 tray |
Alan -
According to the install manuals, I believe they use the same tray, but the SL30
takes an extra connector
Neal George
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 6, 2014, at 8:58 PM, "Alan Mekler MD" wrote:
>
>
> Neal,
> Thinking of replacing my sl40 with a 30
> will the 30 fit in the 40 space?
> Alan
>> On Apr 6, 2014, at 12:41 PM, Neal George wrote:
>>
>>
>> Tray for SL30 & connectors.
>> Previously installed, excellent condition.
>>
>> $150 shipped CONUS
>>
>> Neal George
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | VP-200 Noise on Softkey Push |
For those with the VP-200 in their bird...
I am getting a small burst of static over the intercom when I press one
of the four soft keys on the display. I do NOT get the same static when
I press the far right knob.
All audio tones generated by the VP-200 are coming across fine and I
have no other devices causing static.
Has anyone else come across this?
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Noise on Softkey Push |
No static from the VP when pressing buttons. It has started to not always
move to the next mode of flight (when it should), with no changes from me
however. May be a call to Chad @ VP is in order.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2014 9:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: VP-200 Noise on Softkey Push
For those with the VP-200 in their bird...
I am getting a small burst of static over the intercom when I press one
of the four soft keys on the display. I do NOT get the same static when
I press the far right knob.
All audio tones generated by the VP-200 are coming across fine and I
have no other devices causing static.
Has anyone else come across this?
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Noise on Softkey Push |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I think I remember seeing that in the early days. They came out with a little chip
that went inline with the audio circuit, if I'm not mistaken, that helped
or took care of that. I'd call VP.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Apr 8, 2014, at 12:34 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> For those with the VP-200 in their bird...
>
> I am getting a small burst of static over the intercom when I press one of the
four soft keys on the display. I do NOT get the same static when I press the
far right knob.
>
> All audio tones generated by the VP-200 are coming across fine and I have no
other devices causing static.
>
> Has anyone else come across this?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Noise on Softkey Push |
At 09:34 AM 4/8/2014 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>For those with the VP-200 in their bird...
>
>I am getting a small burst of static over the intercom when I press one of the
four soft keys on the display. I do NOT get the same static when I press the
far right knob.
>
>All audio tones generated by the VP-200 are coming across fine and I have no other
devices causing static.
>
>Has anyone else come across this?
>
>-Sean #40303
My VP-200's make a "kkrrsssh" sound whenever I press any of the 5 chicklette buttons.
That's by design. I told Marc it should be a "click", but he preferred
"kkrrssh". Whatevs... :-)
Matt
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Noise on Softkey Push |
I had a feeling that it might be intended. The "kkrrssh" sure sounds
like a static "pop", which lead me to believe I messed up the audio
wiring somehow.
I wonder if that sound is just a sound file somewhere on the system and
it could be replaced?
-Sean
> Matt Dralle
> April 8, 2014 at 1:15 PM
>
>
> My VP-200's make a "kkrrsssh" sound whenever I press any of the 5
> chicklette buttons. That's by design. I told Marc it should be a
> "click", but he preferred "kkrrssh". Whatevs... :-)
>
> Matt
>
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full
> Flyer Mode
>
> Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Noise on Softkey Push |
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Mine has always done that.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 8, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>
> For those with the VP-200 in their bird...
>
> I am getting a small burst of static over the intercom when I press one of the
four soft keys on the display. I do NOT get the same static when I press the
far right knob.
>
> All audio tones generated by the VP-200 are coming across fine and I have no
other devices causing static.
>
> Has anyone else come across this?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
That's by design it does it on all buttons.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421798#421798
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Slime Fighter oil separator |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Any PIREPS on the Slime Fighter RV-10 product and/or vs the ASA product or any
other product? Just getting painted and would like to keep it clean.
Thanks in advance. Getting close to engine start!
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421803#421803
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slime Fighter oil separator |
I'm opinionated so you may take this with a grain of salt .... whatever
that means ;-)
Air/oil separators are great for covering up a problem .... if you're
getting that much blowby then it's time to look at fixing the problem.
With a new engine you shouldn't need one to keep the belly clean. If
you're really anal about it, shorten up the vent tube and fix a can
under it to catch the drips. If you do go the air/oil separator .....
drain the 'gunk' into a can too.
Linn
On 4/8/2014 6:41 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Any PIREPS on the Slime Fighter RV-10 product and/or vs the ASA product or any
other product? Just getting painted and would like to keep it clean.
>
> Thanks in advance. Getting close to engine start!
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421803#421803
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slime Fighter oil separator |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Check out VAF. there is a complete discussion in the RV-10 group and in the general
discussion area
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421875#421875
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hope for the six cylinder "P" mag |
| From: | "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com> |
I just received this email from Brad Dement. Looks like there may be hope for
the six cylinder "P" mags!!
As we prepare for production of our first six cylinder model, we need to update
our records and reconfirm your interest in the new system. You are receiving
this email because you are on our "Six List" which means you are eligible for
pre-production pricing that will apply to our first production run (only).
It's our way of saying thank you to all those who've been patiently waiting
for our first six cylinder models to arrive. In order to organize the first
runs we need to clarify your specific requirements. We'd very much appreciate
your response by April 18 .
Please Note:
1) We are not asking for payment or deposits with this email.
2) The initial release is for Experimental craft only (FAA certification will begin
soon).
3) The "Six List" kits will include 1 ignition, 1 six lead auto style harness,
1 set of (6) auto plug adapters. Pre-production pricing will be $1450 for each
kit (limit 2 kits per customer). Shipping will be extra.
4) As of now, the Six List is officially closed. New order requests will be gratefully
accepted, but pre-production pricing will not apply. Pricing will
be revised (upward) once we have a better sense of costs.
:D :D
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421932#421932
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hope for the six cylinder "P" mag |
| From: | "charliewaffles" <mcooper(at)live.com> |
Unfortunately he did the same thing about 2 years ago to "clarify" the list of
who was interested. I wouldn't hold much to it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421933#421933
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hope for the six cylinder "P" mag |
| From: | "billz" <billz(at)roadrunner.com> |
You may be correct? We have all been strung along for many years. Here's another
email asking about anyone that may have dropped off the list. Time will
tell if it's "real" or not!!
"Gentlemen:
As you know from our email last week, we're gathering data from those who've inquire
about a six cylinder E-MAG. While there is a great deal of work yet to
be done, we're excited about how the package has come together. If you weren't
able to attend the Sun N Fun air show, the photos below will give you a better
sense of the model we had on display. Work is continuing and tooling for
production will not be a trivial task. We cannot predict exactly when production
will begin, but we are as anxious to ship as you are to receive them.
We truly appreciate your patience and understanding.
Many of the email addresses on our list had errors and/or were no longer valid.
If you know of someone who has been waiting for our EXPERIMENTAL six cylinder
model but has not yet received a message, please have them contact us at their
earliest convenience.
Kindest Regards,
Brad Dement
E-MAG Ignitions
2014 Greg Street, Suite 112
Azle, TX 76020
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421979#421979
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Noise on Softkey Push |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Mine has always done it, as well. I just assumed it was something Marc did.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422008#422008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic squeezer wanted |
If anyone on the list has a pneumatic c-yoke squeezer they no longer need, please
contact me off line.
My borrowed one just moved away.
Thanks - grumpy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Down for Repair (PLEASE READ)... |
Dear Listers,
Late Tuesday night 4/15/2014, the Matronics Web server crashed due to a multi-disk
RAID 5 failure. The system has complete data backups, but I will likely have
to order some replacement disks to rebuild the system. I'll work as quickly
as I can to restore the Matronics Web Server.
The Matronics EMAIL server is NOT impacted by this issue. All normal Matronics
Email List mail will flow as usual. However, the Matronics Web Forums interface
will not be available.
Also impacted by the Web Server outage will be the AeroElectric web site.
I will try to post daily updates on the Web Server restoration status.
I apologize for the inconvenience... :-(
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Repaired and ONLINE! (PLEASE READ) |
Dear Listers,
The new hard drives for the Matronics web server arrived today, Thursday 4/17/2014
and the RAID5 disk array rebuild went very smoothly.
Web server is back online and fully functional! No data or files were lost.
Additionally, those that frequent the AeroElectric web site will find that it has
been restored as well.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Web Server Repaired and ONLINE! (PLEASE READ) |
Dear Matt,
I thank you. It's folks like you (and probably Tim) that allow me to stay
blissfully ignorant of all the technology and hours of troubleshooting, etc.
that it takes for me to know that some wonderful gizmo just works.
AND I thank you for letting me know that you overcame the challenge so that
I can be reminded of my appreciation.
Later, - Lew "happily blissfully ignorantly diddling on my computer"
Gallagher
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2014 2:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Matronics Web Server Repaired and ONLINE! (PLEASE READ)
Dear Listers,
The new hard drives for the Matronics web server arrived today, Thursday
4/17/2014 and the RAID5 disk array rebuild went very smoothly.
Matronics Web server is back online and fully functional! No data or files
were lost.
Additionally, those that frequent the AeroElectric web site will find that
it has been restored as well.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Web Server Repaired and ONLINE! (PLEASE READ) |
Lew,
Thanks for the compliment but this list is all Matt's hard work. I'm just a member
like you. I spend a bit of time and money on my own site but it's small
in comparison to what Matt does. Thanks for being a part of it all either way.
We've had many great discussions and met lots of good people over the years.
Tim
> On Apr 18, 2014, at 6:34 AM, wrote:
>
>
>
> Dear Matt,
>
> I thank you. It's folks like you (and probably Tim) that allow me to stay blissfully
ignorant of all the technology and hours of troubleshooting, etc. that
it takes for me to know that some wonderful gizmo just works.
>
> AND I thank you for letting me know that you overcame the challenge so that
I can be reminded of my appreciation.
>
> Later, - Lew "happily blissfully ignorantly diddling on my computer" Gallagher
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Matt Dralle
> Sent: Friday, April 18, 2014 2:28 AM
> To: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Matronics Web Server Repaired and ONLINE! (PLEASE READ)
>
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> The new hard drives for the Matronics web server arrived today, Thursday 4/17/2014
and the RAID5 disk array rebuild went very smoothly.
>
Web server is back online and fully functional! No data or files were lost.
>
> Additionally, those that frequent the AeroElectric web site will find that it
has been restored as well.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | AFS 4500 and VP-200 Fuel Qty |
For anyone else out there with a AFS4500 EE and VP-200 combination...
Engine data stream between my AFS4500 EE and the VP-200 is all good
except for fuel qty. For some reason the fuel qty on the VP-200 is
higher. I have 11.0 in Left and 9.0 in Right. The AFS4500 is
calibrated and reading correctly. The VP-200 shows 210 in Left and 190
in Right.
I have the AFS4500 serial out to the VP-200 set as Chelton. I've tried
both AFS3000/3500 and EIS/Chelton as the serial IN setting in the
VP-200. Same issue of in both cases. AFS outputs left tank in Aux 2
and right tank in Aux3 fields of the Chelton protocol. Those config
field in the VP-200 have them as Integer. I've also tried changing
those two to Decimal, which causes the qty to read 21 left and 19 right,
which is closer, but still not correct.
Anyone with an AFS4500EE and VP200 combo that has fuel qty working? If
so can you confirm the Serial Out protocol from the AFS4500 and the
Serial In Protocol on the VP-200 and the Aux fields at the at the bottom
of the Serial Data Association page?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFS 4500 and VP-200 Fuel Qty |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi Sean
I have the same combo and didn't notice any difference. However having said this
my AF-4500 displays Fuel in Liters and the VP-200 in Gallons. I'll check next
time I'm at my plane but that might be a while.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422072#422072
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Chelton/ S-Tec Sold |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I expect this will be of interest to some of the early builders with
Chelton displays:
S-TEC And Chelton Flight Systems Acquired In MBO
Businesses Included In Management Buyout Of Cobham Avionics
Genesys Aerosystems Group has acquired Chelton Flight Systems, Inc. and
S-TEC Corporation, previously doing business as Cobham Avionics, from
Cobham in a management buyout.
Genesys Aerosystems was formed by Roger Smith, President, and General
Manager of the two acquired companies, Rick Price and Gordon Pratt,
co-founders of Chelton Flight Systems, and Tammy Crawford, Director of
Finance, for the purpose of acquiring the businesses. Key customers include
AgustaWestland, Airbus Military, Air Medical Group Holdings, Bell
Helicopter, Carson Helicopters, Embraer, Grob Aircraft, Sikorsky, Textron
AirLand, and commercial, military, and government fleets around the world.
Chelton Flight Systems, originally founded in 1997, developed the world's
first FAA-certified synthetic vision flight display system and GPS/WAAS
navigator and has grown to become a leader in integrated cockpit avionics
systems for special-mission aircraft. Key technologies include synthetic
vision with three-dimensional highway-in-the-sky navigation, integrated
flight management and hazard alerting, and ultra-compact, highly ruggedized
sensors that provide ultimate customer benefits of increased safety,
improved dispatch rates, mission flexibility, and seamless future growth.
FAA-approved for all classes of aircraft, the company's uniquely
customizable open-architecture systems dramatically reduce integration
costs and schedules for both OEM and retrofit applications. Chelton Flight
Systems products have been certified on over 700 different aircraft types.
S-TEC Corporation, founded in 1978, offers a full line of autopilots for
airplanes and helicopters. From low-cost analog wing levelers to
sophisticated, digital, three-axis systems with Flight Director and
envelope protection, S-TEC has FAA certification for nearly 1,000 aircraft
types and has delivered over 40,000 autopilot systems. The company's new
HeliSAS brings digital, full-authority autopilot technology to the market
in a package weighing an unprecedented 15 lbs. Available as a stability
augmentation system only or with all autopilot modes, HeliSAS dramatically
enhances safety for light single- and twinengine helicopters.
"We are a dynamic and growing company," says Smith. "We will continue to
support our customers with state-of-the-art technology, agile development,
excellent quality, and superb product support. The name is changing but the
people and our commitment to our vision are not."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Good FAA doc on aircraft ownership |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
While I'm sure it doesn't cover a lot on experimentals, it is a good source
for aircraft ownership responsibilities for your reference library.
Everything you ever wanted to know about registration, and everything
else -
http://tinyurl.com/klkspks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFS 4500 and VP-200 Fuel Qty |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Mine is a GRT with VP-200, and I had to put a resistor in-line to get the voltage
correct. What is your EIS?
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422103#422103
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AFS 4500 and VP-200 Fuel Qty |
The AFS 4500 EE is an EFIS/Engine monitor combo, so it provides data to
the VP-200 using AVTN/Chelton protocol over serial.
Odd part is that everything but the fuel qty is correct. Had first
engine start today and all the other instrumentation on the VP-200
matched the AFS 4500.
> johngoodman
> April 19, 2014 at 10:24 AM
>
> Mine is a GRT with VP-200, and I had to put a resistor in-line to get
> the voltage correct. What is your EIS?
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422103#422103
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AFS 4500 and VP-200 Fuel Qty |
Thanks Mike. Whenever you get the chance. I just want to confirm the
protocol and data association fields to check off the "Sean's not a
bonehead" item on my list. :)
> Mike Whisky
> April 18, 2014 at 4:26 PM
>
> Hi Sean
> I have the same combo and didn't notice any difference. However having
> said this my AF-4500 displays Fuel in Liters and the VP-200 in
> Gallons. I'll check next time I'm at my plane but that might be a while.
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422072#422072
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin door safety latch |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
How do most builders feel about the necessity of installing the cabin door safety
latch? How long ago did Vans come out with that, as a lot of the photos I see
do not show that it has been installed.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422113#422113
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
It has been more than 2 years since Van's came out with the service
bulletin. The first 5 yrs or so they did nothing while a dozen or more
doors came off. IMHO, Van's service bulletin is almost as bad as the
problem. Sean Strasburg engineered a very elegant third latch, in the
same area, that operates with the door handle and is invissible from the
outside.
On 4/19/2014 12:44 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> How do most builders feel about the necessity of installing the cabin door safety
latch? How long ago did Vans come out with that, as a lot of the photos I
see do not show that it has been installed.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422113#422113
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I couldn't have said it better. Sean's latch works as advertised.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone installed one of Seans systems after painting and putting in the interior?
I need to do something like this but really dont want undo more than necessary.
Thanks,
Marcus
On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
I couldn't have said it better. Sean's latch works as advertised.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
If I remember correctly, Scott Schmidt installed the latch well after painting.
I seem to recall that he documented the process either here or on VAF. You
may want to search the archives.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 6:36 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone installed one of Seans systems after painting and putting in the interior?
I need to do something like this but really dont want undo more than
necessary.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I couldn't have said it better. Sean's latch works as advertised.
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks, I found some good comments on a new install but still looking for the retrofit.
Based on price more than anything, Im tempted to go with the 90 degree
retrofit and new guide pins. Any thoughts from folks on the 180 vs 90 degree
setups?
Marcus
On Apr 19, 2014, at 7:32 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
If I remember correctly, Scott Schmidt installed the latch well after painting.
I seem to recall that he documented the process either here or on VAF. You
may want to search the archives.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 6:36 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone installed one of Seans systems after painting and putting in the interior?
I need to do something like this but really dont want undo more than
necessary.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I couldn't have said it better. Sean's latch works as advertised.
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
Marcus,
I can send the instructions to your email for the 180 retro and another
email with the 90. They are large files so let me know if you want them.
Around 6.5 mb each.
Also, feel free to call me if you want to chat about your installation.
801-580-3737.
Sean
-----Original Message-----
From: Marcus Cooper
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2014 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin door safety latch
Thanks, I found some good comments on a new install but still looking for
the retrofit. Based on price more than anything, Im tempted to go with the
90 degree retrofit and new guide pins. Any thoughts from folks on the 180
vs 90 degree setups?
Marcus
On Apr 19, 2014, at 7:32 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
If I remember correctly, Scott Schmidt installed the latch well after
painting. I seem to recall that he documented the process either here or
on VAF. You may want to search the archives.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 6:36 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone installed one of Seans systems after painting and putting in
> the interior? I need to do something like this but really dont want undo
> more than necessary.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I couldn't have said it better. Sean's latch works as advertised.
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
I'm glad i installed it on my RV-10.
- It is very convenient for temporarily securing door in windy conditions (loading,
preflight ).
- It practically guarantees the main latch pins engage properly by first assuring
door leading & trailing edges are properly aligned w/ door frame.
Not sure how much it would help if main latch or pins actually failed in flight
- have not seen any reports/data on this.
Tim Lewis
RV-10 N31TD 500 hrs
RV-6A N47TD 1100 hrs
A&P
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 19, 2014, at 3:44 PM, "bob88" wrote:
>
>
> How do most builders feel about the necessity of installing the cabin door safety
latch? How long ago did Vans come out with that, as a lot of the photos I
see do not show that it has been installed.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422113#422113
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
http://tinyurl.com/ph4ucvb
Is some of Scott's pictures. At the time, his and Sean's plane were in
same hangar (may still be, don't know).
Sean is exceedingly helpful to get you through any head scratching episodes.
Kelly
On 4/19/2014 4:32 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> If I remember correctly, Scott Schmidt installed the latch well after painting.
I seem to recall that he documented the process either here or on VAF. You
may want to search the archives.
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 19, 2014, at 6:36 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>>
>> Has anyone installed one of Seans systems after painting and putting in the
interior? I need to do something like this but really dont want undo more than
necessary.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marcus
>>
>> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>>
>> I couldn't have said it better. Sean's latch works as advertised.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
Excellent, thanks!
Marcus
On Apr 19, 2014, at 9:04 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/ph4ucvb
Is some of Scott's pictures. At the time, his and Sean's plane were in same hangar
(may still be, don't know).
Sean is exceedingly helpful to get you through any head scratching episodes.
Kelly
On 4/19/2014 4:32 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> If I remember correctly, Scott Schmidt installed the latch well after painting.
I seem to recall that he documented the process either here or on VAF. You
may want to search the archives.
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 19, 2014, at 6:36 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>>
>> Has anyone installed one of Seans systems after painting and putting in the
interior? I need to do something like this but really dont want undo more than
necessary.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marcus
>>
>> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>>
>> I couldn't have said it better. Sean's latch works as advertised.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin door safety latch |
3 votes for Sean's solution. It's great.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 19, 2014, at 4:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
I couldn't have said it better. Sean's latch works as advertised.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 19, 2014, at 5:07 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | First Engine Start |
N428RV hiit a milestone today when it purr'd like a tiger after sitting
for almost a year just waiting to be fed.
Everything went smooth. Now it's time to submit some paperwork and
start the final process of getting a few thousand feet between her
wheels and the ground.
Video of the event: http://youtu.be/6Gtz0Z-_rFA
Thanks to the gang at BPA!
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 90 vs 180 degree safety latch |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Anyone have strong opinion about 90 vs 180 degree safety latch (from Sean at Planearound)?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422161#422161
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 90 vs 180 degree safety latch |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
You can set it up as you like between 90-180. I have an armrest installed so my
range is around 120 degrees or so until it stops at the armrest. Works great.
I highly recommend it.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422164#422164
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Can the McMaster Carr door seal, applied to the lip on the cabin cover, be removed/replaced
if it is floxed on as a couple of people have reportedly done?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422168#422168
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
On 4/20/2014 5:11 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Can the McMaster Carr door seal, applied to the lip on the cabin cover, be removed/replaced
if it is floxed on as a couple of people have reportedly done?
Haven't tried using fox to attach the door seal .... and don't know why
you would .... my MMC door seal has a spring metal liner that grips the
lip of the cabin cover. If the lip is too thin in places then you can
squeeze the metal to help it grip.
Linn ..... painting the interior
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422168#422168
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
On 4/20/2014 6:05 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> On 4/20/2014 5:11 PM, bob88 wrote:
>>
>> Can the McMaster Carr door seal, applied to the lip on the cabin
>> cover, be removed/replaced if it is floxed on as a couple of people
>> have reportedly done?
> Haven't tried using fox to attach the door seal .... and don't know
> why you would .... my MMC door seal has a spring metal liner that
> grips the lip of the cabin cover. If the lip is too thin in places
> then you can squeeze the metal to help it grip.
> Linn ..... painting the interior
>>
Ditto.
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 90 vs 180 degree safety latch |
Bob,
The 180 kit has twice more lateral movement which enables the cam to pull
the door in before the pins exit the door structure. Even though you use 30
degrees of handle rotation for the cam to pull, the pins can still come out
over 1-1/2 inches into the guides and fuse structure. When opening the door
the pins retract into the door structure about a 1/2 an inch and all of this
is totally adjustable.
With the 90 degree kit it is more of a timing game. You can still get it to
work great, you just have to get the cam engaged as the pins extend out of
the door. There is still room to do it.
The 90 can be installed in a painted door and can be installed without
taking the pin exit guide screws out. No matter which route you will have
to take the handle mechanism screws out.
Also, keep in mind the 180 PlaneAround kit does not work with flush handles.
Aftermarket flush handles have mechanical interference past 90 degree
rotation.
Reminder for new builders!!!!!!!!! whatever route you take for door
handles/latches/pins, don't cut your Vans' supplied handle gear racks! Cut
the 10 inch racks in half instead of what the plans state. There are no
negative repercussions for having too long gear racks. This way your stock
handle will rotate up to 180 degrees. I sell the racks but they are
expensive and I sell them for my cost. Vans are twice the price of mine and
that is the price difference between the 180 new and 180 retro.
-----Original Message-----
From: bob88
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 11:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 vs 180 degree safety latch
Anyone have strong opinion about 90 vs 180 degree safety latch (from Sean at
Planearound)?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422161#422161
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi
I have now 60h on my -10 and suffer of bad noise of my COMM 1 GNS430W.
It is constantly receiving loud noise only when the engine is running. Often it
is ok on my home frequency 122.15 but permanently noise is present on 124.xxx
frequencies.
The COMM 1 is connected to a belly mounted Comant C-122 antenna which is attached
by screws and nut plates. The antenna came with a cork gasket which I used.
Here are my set of questions. The radio receives fine when engine is not running,
so I guess that grounding of antenna or cabling should not be the cause of
the issue. What could be the potential source of the noise? How can I identify
it?
I took all electric circuits one by one off-line without success.
Any ideas are appreciated
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422182#422182
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
| From: | Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com> |
Sounds like it is a shielding issue. Make sure that you use shielded ground and
antenna wires. The shield should be grounded on just one side, not both (either
antenna side or radio side).
On Apr 21, 2014, at 2:41 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Hi
> I have now 60h on my -10 and suffer of bad noise of my COMM 1 GNS430W.
> It is constantly receiving loud noise only when the engine is running. Often
it is ok on my home frequency 122.15 but permanently noise is present on 124.xxx
frequencies.
> The COMM 1 is connected to a belly mounted Comant C-122 antenna which is attached
by screws and nut plates. The antenna came with a cork gasket which I used.
> Here are my set of questions. The radio receives fine when engine is not running,
so I guess that grounding of antenna or cabling should not be the cause of
the issue. What could be the potential source of the noise? How can I identify
it?
>
> I took all electric circuits one by one off-line without success.
>
> Any ideas are appreciated
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422182#422182
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Mike. Have you tried pulling the field breaker on the alternator so you are
running on battery power only? If so, then it would appear you are a problem
with the magnetos generating noise. If the problem goes away when you turn
off the alternator then we are chasing an issue with respect to the alternator
and it's regulator.
One point if note, there are squelch setting deep in the set-up menu of the gns
series. I remember making tweaks to it on my glastar many years ago. Now
with respect to the rv-10, I have dual gns-430w, each with a belly mount c-122
antenna and I did use the cork gaskets. All works as advertised, I never have
a communication issue with the radios on any frequency.
Bob Newman
N541RV
Tcwtech.com
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 6:41 AM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
>
> Hi
> I have now 60h on my -10 and suffer of bad noise of my COMM 1 GNS430W.
> It is constantly receiving loud noise only when the engine is running. Often
it is ok on my home frequency 122.15 but permanently noise is present on 124.xxx
frequencies.
> The COMM 1 is connected to a belly mounted Comant C-122 antenna which is attached
by screws and nut plates. The antenna came with a cork gasket which I used.
> Here are my set of questions. The radio receives fine when engine is not running,
so I guess that grounding of antenna or cabling should not be the cause of
the issue. What could be the potential source of the noise? How can I identify
it?
>
> I took all electric circuits one by one off-line without success.
>
> Any ideas are appreciated
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422182#422182
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
There are several issues that can cause the problem you describe. This last
week I fixed a similar problem on an RV-8A - an antenna connector on the
feed line was bad. A bad connector can still allow the radio to receive.
As you don't say this is a problem on Comm #2 and this problem just
appeared, below are some thoughts to isolate the root issue:
- swap Comm #1 and Comm #2 antennas to see if the problem moves. If so you
have either bad connectors, some other antenna feed line issue or a bad
antenna (not likely). I use an MFJ antenna analyzer to verify antenna
health.
- swap out your 430 with someone else's 430 - if the problem goes away the
issue is inside your 430. As Bob suggests this might be a simple squelch
setting.
If the above checks do not change the symptoms then start looking at the
things not checked. This would include tray connections and magneto control
cabling (must be shielded wire and grounded per standard magneto wiring
practice). If you did something right before this issue started, that would
also be a place to look.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tcwtech
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W)
Mike. Have you tried pulling the field breaker on the alternator so you
are running on battery power only? If so, then it would appear you are a
problem with the magnetos generating noise. If the problem goes away when
you turn off the alternator then we are chasing an issue with respect to the
alternator and it's regulator.
One point if note, there are squelch setting deep in the set-up menu of the
gns series. I remember making tweaks to it on my glastar many years ago.
Now with respect to the rv-10, I have dual gns-430w, each with a belly mount
c-122 antenna and I did use the cork gaskets. All works as advertised, I
never have a communication issue with the radios on any frequency.
Bob Newman
N541RV
Tcwtech.com
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 6:41 AM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
>
>
> Hi
> I have now 60h on my -10 and suffer of bad noise of my COMM 1 GNS430W.
> It is constantly receiving loud noise only when the engine is running.
Often it is ok on my home frequency 122.15 but permanently noise is present
on 124.xxx frequencies.
> The COMM 1 is connected to a belly mounted Comant C-122 antenna which is
attached by screws and nut plates. The antenna came with a cork gasket which
I used.
> Here are my set of questions. The radio receives fine when engine is not
running, so I guess that grounding of antenna or cabling should not be the
cause of the issue. What could be the potential source of the noise? How can
I identify it?
>
> I took all electric circuits one by one off-line without success.
>
> Any ideas are appreciated
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422182#422182
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
jmjones2000(at)mindspring wrote:
> Sounds like it is a shielding issue. Make sure that you use shielded ground
and antenna wires. The shield should be grounded on just one side, not both (either
antenna side or radio side).
>
> I am using RG-400 and BNC connectors. The shield is grounded on both ends. It's
the first time I hear that it should be grounded only on one side! Can someone
confirm.
> Mike
>
> On Apr 21, 2014, at 2:41 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> > Hi
> > I have now 60h on my -10 and suffer of bad noise of my COMM 1 GNS430W.
> > It is constantly receiving loud noise only when the engine is running. Often
it is ok on my home frequency 122.15 but permanently noise is present on 124.xxx
frequencies.
> > The COMM 1 is connected to a belly mounted Comant C-122 antenna which is attached
by screws and nut plates. The antenna came with a cork gasket which I
used.
> > Here are my set of questions. The radio receives fine when engine is not running,
so I guess that grounding of antenna or cabling should not be the cause
of the issue. What could be the potential source of the noise? How can I identify
it?
> >
> > I took all electric circuits one by one off-line without success.
> >
> > Any ideas are appreciated
> >
> > Thanks
> > Mike
> >
> > --------
> > RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> > #511
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422182#422182
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422188#422188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Yes.
I used the seal as a form to build the edge back up to the proper
thickness. I just filled the seal with flox and installed it on the lip. It
came off nicely in a single pull.
Now, I only let is sit on there for two days or so while the epoxy cured,
then I peeled it off. I don't know how things would change if it were on
there longer.
On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 7:31 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
>
> On 4/20/2014 6:05 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>>
>> On 4/20/2014 5:11 PM, bob88 wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Can the McMaster Carr door seal, applied to the lip on the cabin cover,
>>> be removed/replaced if it is floxed on as a couple of people have
>>> reportedly done?
>>>
>> Haven't tried using fox to attach the door seal .... and don't know why
>> you would .... my MMC door seal has a spring metal liner that grips the
>> lip of the cabin cover. If the lip is too thin in places then you can
>> squeeze the metal to help it grip.
>> Linn ..... painting the interior
>>
>>>
>>> Ditto.
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
You are correct. Antenna cable is NOT one of the places that shielding
is terminated to ground at only one end.
There are opportunities for a bad shield connection with coax. An
earlier suggestion to swap antenna cables between Com 1 and Com 2 is a
good one to see if it is the cable(does problem move between coms or
not?). Likewise, if possible to either borrow another matching radio to
see if it does it also, or to put your radio in someone ele's plane to
see if the problem goes with the radio. All no/lo-cost tests.
Magnetos/electronic ignition and alternator system are two prime
candidates for noise generation. Easy to eliminate the alternator noise
by pulling field and main breakers.
On 4/21/2014 5:42 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
>
> jmjones2000(at)mindspring wrote:
>> Sounds like it is a shielding issue. Make sure that you use shielded ground
and antenna wires. The shield should be grounded on just one side, not both
(either antenna side or radio side).
>>
>> I am using RG-400 and BNC connectors. The shield is grounded on both ends. It's
the first time I hear that it should be grounded only on one side! Can someone
confirm.
>> Mike
>>
>> On Apr 21, 2014, at 2:41 AM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi
>>> I have now 60h on my -10 and suffer of bad noise of my COMM 1 GNS430W.
>>> It is constantly receiving loud noise only when the engine is running. Often
it is ok on my home frequency 122.15 but permanently noise is present on 124.xxx
frequencies.
>>> The COMM 1 is connected to a belly mounted Comant C-122 antenna which is
attached by screws and nut plates. The antenna came with a cork gasket which I
used.
>>> Here are my set of questions. The radio receives fine when engine is not
running, so I guess that grounding of antenna or cabling should not be the cause
of the issue. What could be the potential source of the noise? How can I identify
it?
>>>
>>> I took all electric circuits one by one off-line without success.
>>>
>>> Any ideas are appreciated
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> --------
>>> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
>>> #511
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422182#422182
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422188#422188
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I do have one common ground for everything at the firewall. It works fine for my
COMM 2 (SL30). I will follow your advice and switch off field and then EI/Magneto.
The ground of measuring connectivity of the antenna ground base against
the structure has been positive. In order to switch antenna cable I need to make
a male-male and one female-female coax as the connectors are just the other
way around. But I do have now a pretty good idea to eliminate at least some
potential sources. I'll keep you updated of the outcome.
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422207#422207
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Cobhan/Chelton & S-TEC ownership changes |
Does not say anything about continued support for us Chelton users.....
Businesses Included In Management Buyout Of Cobham Avionics
Genesys Aerosystems Group has acquired Chelton Flight Systems, Inc. and
S-TEC Corporation, previously doing business as Cobham Avionics, from
Cobham in a management buyout.
Genesys Aerosystems was formed by Roger Smith, President, and General
Manager of the two acquired companies, Rick Price and Gordon Pratt,
co-founders of Chelton Flight Systems, and Tammy Crawford, Director of
Finance, for the purpose of acquiring the businesses. Key customers
include AgustaWestland, Airbus Military, Air Medical Group Holdings,
Bell Helicopter, Carson Helicopters, Embraer, Grob Aircraft, Sikorsky,
Textron AirLand, and commercial, military, and government fleets around
the world.
Chelton Flight Systems, originally founded in 1997, developed the
world=92s first FAA-certified synthetic vision flight display system and
GPS/WAAS navigator and has grown to become a leader in integrated
cockpit avionics systems for special-mission aircraft. Key technologies
include synthetic vision with three-dimensional highway-in-the-sky
navigation, integrated flight management and hazard alerting, and
ultra-compact, highly ruggedized sensors that provide ultimate customer
benefits of increased safety, improved dispatch rates, mission
flexibility, and seamless future growth. FAA-approved for all classes of
aircraft, the company=92s uniquely customizable open-architecture
systems dramatically reduce integration costs and schedules for both OEM
and retrofit applications. Chelton Flight Systems products have been
certified on over 700 different aircraft types.
S-TEC Corporation, founded in 1978, offers a full line of autopilots for
airplanes and helicopters. =46rom low-cost analog wing levelers to
sophisticated, digital, three-axis systems with Flight Director and
envelope protection, S-TEC has FAA certification for nearly 1,000
aircraft types and has delivered over 40,000 autopilot systems. The
company=92s new HeliSAS brings digital, full-authority autopilot
technology to the market in a package weighing an unprecedented 15 lbs.
Available as a stability augmentation system only or with all autopilot
modes, HeliSAS dramatically enhances safety for light single- and
twinengine helicopters.
=93We are a dynamic and growing company,=94 says Smith. =93We will
continue to support our customers with state-of-the-art technology,
agile development, excellent quality, and superb product support. The
name is changing but the people and our commitment to our vision are
not.=94
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cobhan/Chelton & S-TEC ownership changes |
True, but I tend to think you are better off with the original founders
of Chelton than you were with Cobham.
On 4/21/2014 1:57 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> Does not say anything about continued support for us Chelton users.....
>
>
> Businesses Included In Management Buyout Of Cobham Avionics
>
> Genesys Aerosystems Group has acquired Chelton Flight Systems, Inc.
> and S-TEC Corporation, previously doing business as Cobham Avionics,
> from Cobham in a management buyout.
>
> Genesys Aerosystems was formed by Roger Smith, President, and General
> Manager of the two acquired companies, Rick Price and Gordon Pratt,
> co-founders of Chelton Flight Systems, and Tammy Crawford, Director of
> Finance, for the purpose of acquiring the businesses. Key customers
> include AgustaWestland, Airbus Military, Air Medical Group Holdings,
> Bell Helicopter, Carson Helicopters, Embraer, Grob Aircraft, Sikorsky,
> Textron AirLand, and commercial, military, and government fleets
> around the world.
>
> Chelton Flight Systems, originally founded in 1997, developed the
> worlds first FAA-certified synthetic vision flight display system and
> GPS/WAAS navigator and has grown to become a leader in integrated
> cockpit avionics systems for special-mission aircraft. Key
> technologies include synthetic vision with three-dimensional
> highway-in-the-sky navigation, integrated flight management and hazard
> alerting, and ultra-compact, highly ruggedized sensors that provide
> ultimate customer benefits of increased safety, improved dispatch
> rates, mission flexibility, and seamless future growth. FAA-approved
> for all classes of aircraft, the companys uniquely customizable
> open-architecture systems dramatically reduce integration costs and
> schedules for both OEM and retrofit applications. Chelton Flight
> Systems products have been certified on over 700 different aircraft types.
>
> S-TEC Corporation, founded in 1978, offers a full line of autopilots
> for airplanes and helicopters. From low-cost analog wing levelers to
> sophisticated, digital, three-axis systems with Flight Director and
> envelope protection, S-TEC has FAA certification for nearly 1,000
> aircraft types and has delivered over 40,000 autopilot systems. The
> companys new HeliSAS brings digital, full-authority autopilot
> technology to the market in a package weighing an unprecedented 15
> lbs. Available as a stability augmentation system only or with all
> autopilot modes, HeliSAS dramatically enhances safety for light
> single- and twinengine helicopters.
>
> We are a dynamic and growing company, says Smith. We will continue
> to support our customers with state-of-the-art technology, agile
> development, excellent quality, and superb product support. The name
> is changing but the people and our commitment to our vision are not.
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Leaking vent line on QB tanks |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
It appears that the blue nut on the vent line inside the tank was only hand tightened
by the QB builders. With more than 20 gallons in the tank, fuel started
dripping through the vent line. About a cup or more a day.
It's a real pain but it can be tightened through the fuel sender holes, while peeking
through the drain hole with a camera. I was lucky enough to be able to
borrow a friend's unfinished fuel tank so I can practice... Still without a camera
I couldn't do it.
The nut was lose on both tanks (only one was loose enough to leak though).
I heard this happen to others before. So if you have qb tanks it may be worth checking
before you install and proseal in the floats.
The vent line was also not bent right on one tank, so the float has no room to
go all the way to the top, but that's another story...
Lenny
--------
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422237#422237
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking vent line on QB tanks |
Did you have to use a funky custom wrench, or were you able to
use something more standard when using the camera method?
Tim
On 4/22/2014 8:22 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> It appears that the blue nut on the vent line inside the tank was only hand tightened
by the QB builders. With more than 20 gallons in the tank, fuel started
dripping through the vent line. About a cup or more a day.
>
> It's a real pain but it can be tightened through the fuel sender holes, while
peeking through the drain hole with a camera. I was lucky enough to be able to
borrow a friend's unfinished fuel tank so I can practice... Still without a
camera I couldn't do it.
>
> The nut was lose on both tanks (only one was loose enough to leak though).
>
> I heard this happen to others before. So if you have qb tanks it may be worth
checking before you install and proseal in the floats.
>
> The vent line was also not bent right on one tank, so the float has no room to
go all the way to the top, but that's another story...
>
> Lenny
>
> --------
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking vent line on QB tanks |
If you proseal the sending unit to the tank, and that sending unit
fails, you will curse yourself for a long time while you try to remove
the proseal. Just saying, as I steel myself for having to do a proseal
repair on a Mooney tank.
On 4/22/2014 6:22 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
> -
>
> I heard this happen to others before. So if you have qb tanks it may be worth
checking before you install and proseal in the floats.
>
> The vent line was also not bent right on one tank, so the float has no room to
go all the way to the top, but that's another story...
>
> Lenny
>
> --------
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422237#422237
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaking vent line on QB tanks |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Ended up cutting a slot in a shorty box-end wrench so it goes on the vent tube,
and hooking up a bunch of long zip-ties on the other end, so i can maneuver it
around by holding onto the zip ties.
Lenny
Tim Olson wrote:
> Did you have to use a funky custom wrench, or were you able to
> use something more standard when using the camera method?
>
> Tim
>
> On 4/22/2014 8:22 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > It appears that the blue nut on the vent line inside the tank was only hand
tightened by the QB builders. With more than 20 gallons in the tank, fuel started
dripping through the vent line. About a cup or more a day.
> >
> > It's a real pain but it can be tightened through the fuel sender holes, while
peeking through the drain hole with a camera. I was lucky enough to be able
to borrow a friend's unfinished fuel tank so I can practice... Still without
a camera I couldn't do it.
> >
> > The nut was lose on both tanks (only one was loose enough to leak though).
> >
> > I heard this happen to others before. So if you have qb tanks it may be worth
checking before you install and proseal in the floats.
> >
> > The vent line was also not bent right on one tank, so the float has no room
to go all the way to the top, but that's another story...
> >
> > Lenny
> >
> > --------
> > Lenny
> > #40803
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422272#422272
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaking vent line on QB tanks |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
A while ago I saw some plastic scrapers on AircraftSpruce, they look like double
edged razor blades. I bought some to try them out.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/scraperite12-03311.php
Cuts through the proseal like butter, but you have to use it as a knife not as
a scraper. It doesn't hurt the aluminum at all. On the face of the sender I just
used a razorblade to clean up around the screws.
Lenny
Kellym wrote:
> If you proseal the sending unit to the tank, and that sending unit
> fails, you will curse yourself for a long time while you try to remove
> the proseal. Just saying, as I steel myself for having to do a proseal
> repair on a Mooney tank.
>
> On 4/22/2014 6:22 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> > -
> >
> > I heard this happen to others before. So if you have qb tanks it may be worth
checking before you install and proseal in the floats.
> >
> > The vent line was also not bent right on one tank, so the float has no room
to go all the way to the top, but that's another story...
> >
> > Lenny
> >
> > --------
> > Lenny
> > #40803
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422237#422237
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422274#422274
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaking vent line on QB tanks |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Mike Andresen aka Azcloudflyer has a complete tool rig specifically for this problem
that he has sent all over the world to folks with this issue. Once the
sensor plate is off, it's a 30 second fix.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422335#422335
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing problems on the
bottom of the cowl. I am installing the cowling on my RV10 right now
with hinges on the side of the bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom. My
RV8 has hinges on the side and nutplates on the bottom, and I am very
happy with the way the cowl slides aft and the hinges hold it up until I
install the pins, a one man job. I was thinking that the camlocs might
prevent that smooth installation because the camlocs would hang up the
cowl from sliding aft. I can easily change now to nutplates. Can anyone
give me any feedback on this configuration?
Chris Hukill
getting closer everyday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
No experience with camlocs on the bottom of lower cowl. I put nutplates
and screws all across the bottom.
I'm not flying yet but my reasoning was screws/nutplates are less
espensive and I already have to crawl under the plane to unscrew the
bracket in the ramp so why not the ones on the side. I think the
camlocs would get in the way as you slide the lower cowl in place.
I did put camlocs on the upper cowl and hinges down the sides.
Linn
On 4/24/2014 8:20 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing problems on the
> bottom of the cowl. I am installing the cowling on my RV10 right now
> with hinges on the side of the bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom.
> My RV8 has hinges on the side and nutplates on the bottom, and I am
> very happy with the way the cowl slides aft and the hinges hold it up
> until I install the pins, a one man job. I was thinking that the
> camlocs might prevent that smooth installation because the camlocs
> would hang up the cowl from sliding aft. I can easily change now to
> nutplates. Can anyone give me any feedback on this configuration?
> Chris Hukill
> getting closer everyday
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
I have camloc's on the bottome of my lower cowling and have no issues getting it
on or off.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 8:20:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing problems on the bottom of the
cowl. I am installing the cowling on my RV10 right now with hinges on the side
of the bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom. My RV8 has hinges on the side
and nutplates on the bottom, and I am very happy with the way the cowl slides
aft and the hinges hold it up until I install the pins, a one man job. I was
thinking that the camlocs might prevent that smooth installation because the camlocs
would hang up the cowl from sliding aft. I can easily change now to nutplates.
Can anyone give me any feedback on this configuration?
Chris Hukill
getting closer everyday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
I've used CamLocks on both pieces of the cowl. No problems to date.
Date: Thu=2C 24 Apr 2014 20:32:10 -0400
From: flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
No experience with camlocs on the
bottom of lower cowl. I put nutplates and screws all across the
bottom.
I'm not flying yet but my reasoning was screws/nutplates are less
espensive and I already have to crawl under the plane to unscrew
the bracket in the ramp so why not the ones on the side. I think
the camlocs would get in the way as you slide the lower cowl in
place.
I did put camlocs on the upper cowl and hinges down the sides.
Linn
On 4/24/2014 8:20 PM=2C Chris Hukill wrote:
I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing
problems on the bottom of the cowl. I am installing the
cowling on my RV10 right now with hinges on the side of the
bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom. My RV8 has hinges on
the side and nutplates on the bottom=2C and I am very happy
with the way the cowl slides aft and the hinges hold it up
until I install the pins=2C a one man job. I was thinking that
the camlocs might prevent that smooth installation because
the camlocs would hang up the cowl from sliding aft. I can
easily change now to nutplates. Can anyone give me any
feedback on this configuration?
Chris Hukill
getting closer everyday
No virus
found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/24/14
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Some 1/4 turn fasteners cause more of a problem in that type if thing than o
thers. I have installed Skybolt fasteners on a couple if cowls there without
trouble. Screws and nutplates are definitely cheaper. The biggest reason to
go screws, IMHO, is the reason already given, that you still have 6 screws o
n the bottom of the cowl to remove, so you'll already be down there.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 24, 2014, at 8:35 PM, David Clifford wr
ote:
>
> I have camloc's on the bottome of my lower cowling and have no issues gett
ing it on or off.
>
> From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 8:20:41 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
>
> I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing problems on the bottom o
f the cowl. I am installing the cowling on my RV10 right now with hinges on t
he side of the bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom. My RV8 has hinges on t
he side and nutplates on the bottom, and I am very happy with the way the co
wl slides aft and the hinges hold it up until I install the pins, a one man j
ob. I was thinking that the camlocs might prevent that smooth installation b
ecause the camlocs would hang up the cowl from sliding aft. I can easily cha
nge now to nutplates. Can anyone give me any feedback on this configuration?
> Chris Hukill
> getting closer everyday
>
>
> get="_blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li
st">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ta-mce-href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
3 screws on each side, 650 hours, not even a remote issue.... besides, with
a makita, it pretty quick.=0ADon McDonald=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________
______________=0A From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@mat
ronics.com =0ASent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 8:14 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-Li
st: camlocs on the bottom of cowl=0A =0A=0A=0A =0AI've used CamLocks on bot
h pieces of the cowl. No problems to date.=0A=0A___________________________
_____=0ADate: Thu, 24 Apr 2014 20:32:10 -0400=0AFrom: flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: camlocs on the bot
tom of cowl=0A=0A=0ANo experience with camlocs on the bottom of lower cowl.
- I put nutplates and screws all across the bottom.=0AI'm not flying yet
but my reasoning was screws/nutplates are less=0A espensive and I alre
ady have to crawl under the plane to unscrew=0A the bracket in the ram
p so why not the ones on the side.- I think=0A the camlocs would get
in the way as you slide the lower cowl in=0A place.=0AI did put camlo
cs on the upper cowl and hinges down the sides.=0A=0ALinn=0A=0AOn 4/24/2014
8:20 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:=0A=0AI saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlo
cs causing problems on the bottom of the cowl. I am installing the cowling
on my RV10 right now with hinges on the side of the bottom cowl and camlocs
on the bottom. My RV8 has hinges on the side and nutplates on the bottom,
and I am very happy with the way the cowl slides aft and the hinges hold it
up until I install the pins, a one man job. I was thinking that the camloc
s might prevent that smooth installation because the camlocs would hang up
the cowl from sliding aft. I can easily change now to nutplates. Can anyone
give me any feedback on this configuration?=0A>Chris Hukill=0A>getting clo
ser everyday=0A>No virus found in this message.=0A>Checked by AVG - www.avg
.com=0A>04/24/14=0A=0Aist" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigat
or?RV10-List=0Aank>http://forums.matronics.com=0Arget=_blank>http://www.m
=====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Just received and installed the Vans recommended fuel line from firewall to fuel
pump and have a concern. First it fits a little tight and seems a little short
but maybe clocking the fitting will cure that; 2) am concerned about the
aluminum firewall thru fitting holding up through engine vibration and may change
that to steel; 3) if the line is adel clamped to the engine mount will that
eliminate concern about vibration to the fitting?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422349#422349
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Stock setup has worked for 1,300+ hours here.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 24, 2014, at 10:58 PM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
>
> Just received and installed the Vans recommended fuel line from firewall to fuel
pump and have a concern. First it fits a little tight and seems a little
short but maybe clocking the fitting will cure that; 2) am concerned about the
aluminum firewall thru fitting holding up through engine vibration and may change
that to steel; 3) if the line is adel clamped to the engine mount will that
eliminate concern about vibration to the fitting?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422349#422349
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
1. I went with TSflightline for all fuel lines for and aft of the firewall, so
I can't speak to the length of Vans cable.
2. I replaced with steel fittings. Anplumbing.com
3. Shouldn't be an issue. I don't recall if I secured that line with an adel
clamp or not. Just make sure that the line has some slack if you use an adel
clamp.
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 24, 2014, at 10:58 PM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
>
> Just received and installed the Vans recommended fuel line from firewall to fuel
pump and have a concern. First it fits a little tight and seems a little
short but maybe clocking the fitting will cure that; 2) am concerned about the
aluminum firewall thru fitting holding up through engine vibration and may change
that to steel; 3) if the line is adel clamped to the engine mount will that
eliminate concern about vibration to the fitting?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422349#422349
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I posted this on VAF a long time ago. I started down the path of camlocs from
Skybolt and changed back to hinge. The issue with the skybolt camlocs is the
new cowl does not have enough edge overlap as part of the joggle. You will have
to grind the cowl along the upper edge to create a large enough flat area for
the camloc strip to sit on. A lot of work and weakening the cowl. The hinge
does just fine, after 250 hours it is a piece of cake to remove. I used 5
#8 screws at the bottom on each side.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422366#422366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
Interesting, as I have the pink cowl with gray outer coating obtained in
fall of 2010.
I installed Skybolt with their supplied mounting tabs for entire
firewall as well as the horizontal parting line.
There was adequate flange all the way around. I did not need to grind
anything in the honeycomb area.
Kelly
40866, allegedly finishing.
On 4/25/2014 7:12 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
> I posted this on VAF a long time ago. I started down the path of camlocs from
Skybolt and changed back to hinge. The issue with the skybolt camlocs is the
new cowl does not have enough edge overlap as part of the joggle. You will
have to grind the cowl along the upper edge to create a large enough flat area
for the camloc strip to sit on. A lot of work and weakening the cowl. The hinge
does just fine, after 250 hours it is a piece of cake to remove. I used
5 #8 screws at the bottom on each side.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422366#422366
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough flange for
my skybolts. Weird.
So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos somewhere
of it.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 25, 2014, at 10:01 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
Interesting, as I have the pink cowl with gray outer coating obtained in fall of
2010.
I installed Skybolt with their supplied mounting tabs for entire firewall as well
as the horizontal parting line.
There was adequate flange all the way around. I did not need to grind anything
in the honeycomb area.
Kelly
40866, allegedly finishing.
> On 4/25/2014 7:12 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
> I posted this on VAF a long time ago. I started down the path of camlocs from
Skybolt and changed back to hinge. The issue with the skybolt camlocs is the
new cowl does not have enough edge overlap as part of the joggle. You will
have to grind the cowl along the upper edge to create a large enough flat area
for the camloc strip to sit on. A lot of work and weakening the cowl. The hinge
does just fine, after 250 hours it is a piece of cake to remove. I used
5 #8 screws at the bottom on each side.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422366#422366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
I have the pink cowl w/o the gray exterior and it had plenty of flange for
the skybolts all around. I am using the skybolt upper kit, hinges on the
lower cowl sides, and 3 #8 screws on each side on the bottom of the cowl.
Not flying yet though.
I would not let the lack of flange deter you from skybolts if you wanted to
use them. It is not a difficult task to remove some of the honeycomb. I
don't think it weakens the cowl at all when you do that because essentially
your making your cowl match how most of them were molded from the start. I
would seal the edge of the honeycomb and potentially layup a thin layer or
two of glass if you felt you sanded the shell a bit thin in spots. In total
it's probably on a couple hour job.
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2014 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough
flange for my skybolts. Weird.
So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos
somewhere of it.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Guys, FYI
I have the pink cowl, just fitted recently, and I had to grind away the
foam structural part on the top right corner just to make the piano hinge
fit. The foam was very crooked along the aft edge. I covered the area
that I ground away with fiberglass cloth to replace the structural foam I
removed. I am using 4 #8 screws & nut plates.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> I have the pink cowl w/o the gray exterior and it had plenty of flange for
> the skybolts all around. I am using the skybolt upper kit, hinges on the
> lower cowl sides, and 3 #8 screws on each side on the bottom of the cowl.
> Not flying yet though.
>
> I would not let the lack of flange deter you from skybolts if you wanted to
> use them. It is not a difficult task to remove some of the honeycomb. I
> don't think it weakens the cowl at all when you do that because essentially
> your making your cowl match how most of them were molded from the start. I
> would seal the edge of the honeycomb and potentially layup a thin layer or
> two of glass if you felt you sanded the shell a bit thin in spots. In
> total
> it's probably on a couple hour job.
>
> -Ben
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Friday, April 25, 2014 8:11 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
>
>
> Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough
> flange for my skybolts. Weird.
>
> So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos
> somewhere of it.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I'm pretty sure the variability we are seeing has to do with both some of the cowling
manufacturing variability, and with the variability in the front flange
of the engine to the firewall dimension. Since all the cowls are custom cut
and fitted, some end up with more or less flange than others.
I'm my experience, the fiberglass on the top and bottom of the foam is significantly
thinner than the flanges. If you grind away the foam, you will have to
add in several layers of fiberglass.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 25, 2014, at 1:32 PM, "Ben Westfall" wrote:
>
>
> I have the pink cowl w/o the gray exterior and it had plenty of flange for
> the skybolts all around. I am using the skybolt upper kit, hinges on the
> lower cowl sides, and 3 #8 screws on each side on the bottom of the cowl.
> Not flying yet though.
>
> I would not let the lack of flange deter you from skybolts if you wanted to
> use them. It is not a difficult task to remove some of the honeycomb. I
> don't think it weakens the cowl at all when you do that because essentially
> your making your cowl match how most of them were molded from the start. I
> would seal the edge of the honeycomb and potentially layup a thin layer or
> two of glass if you felt you sanded the shell a bit thin in spots. In total
> it's probably on a couple hour job.
>
> -Ben
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Friday, April 25, 2014 8:11 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
>
>
> Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough
> flange for my skybolts. Weird.
>
> So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos
> somewhere of it.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
In general, 1/4-turns don't clamp as tight as as a screw. That area is
pretty flexible so it benefits from good clampup. I don't think anyone has
used the stock hinges for very long.
Use the same hardware as the support plate and it's no big deal to pull out
all 12 screws.
On Thursday, April 24, 2014, Chris Hukill
>
wrote:
> I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing problems on the
> bottom of the cowl. I am installing the cowling on my RV10 right now with
> hinges on the side of the bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom. My RV8 has
> hinges on the side and nutplates on the bottom, and I am very happy with
> the way the cowl slides aft and the hinges hold it up until I install the
> pins, a one man job. I was thinking that the camlocs might prevent that
> smooth installation because the camlocs would hang up the cowl from sliding
> aft. I can easily change now to nutplates. Can anyone give me any feedback
> on this configuration?
> Chris Hukill
> getting closer everyday
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
--Dave Saylor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
We have been using the stock hinges for 9 years and 1,300+ hours.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 25, 2014, at 6:42 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> In general, 1/4-turns don't clamp as tight as as a screw. That area is pr
etty flexible so it benefits from good clampup. I don't think anyone has use
d the stock hinges for very long.
>
> Use the same hardware as the support plate and it's no big deal to pull ou
t all 12 screws.
>
>> On Thursday, April 24, 2014, Chris Hukill wrote:
>> I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing problems on the bottom
of the cowl. I am installing the cowling on my RV10 right now with hinges o
n the side of the bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom. My RV8 has hinges o
n the side and nutplates on the bottom, and I am very happy with the way the
cowl slides aft and the hinges hold it up until I install the pins, a one m
an job. I was thinking that the camlocs might prevent that smooth installati
on because the camlocs would hang up the cowl from sliding aft. I can easily
change now to nutplates. Can anyone give me any feedback on this configurat
ion?
>> Chris Hukill
>> getting closer everyday
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
> --
> --Dave Saylor
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Here is the photo that I mentioned showing the interference with the
honeycomb and skybolt tabs.
After reading some of the others experiences, I suspect the answer is in
the spinner/prop selection. I'm running a 3 blade MT and it came with a
factory spinner. I suspect if I fitted vans spinner to a different prop,
it would move the cowling further forward by a .25" to .5". The MT
spinner does sit back a little further and after you set the gap between
the back of the spinner and the front of the cowling, that could easily
make up the difference between hitting the honeycomb or not.
I'm not going to put the work in to making the skybolts work with my MT
setup. So if anyone is interested in a full set for the upper cowl, lower
cowl, and sides, let me know.
Phil
On Friday, April 25, 2014, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough
> flange for my skybolts. Weird.
>
> So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos
> somewhere of it.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 25, 2014, at 10:01 AM, Kelly McMullen >
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> Interesting, as I have the pink cowl with gray outer coating obtained in
> fall of 2010.
> I installed Skybolt with their supplied mounting tabs for entire firewall
> as well as the horizontal parting line.
> There was adequate flange all the way around. I did not need to grind
> anything in the honeycomb area.
> Kelly
> 40866, allegedly finishing.
>
> > On 4/25/2014 7:12 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
> >
> >
> > I posted this on VAF a long time ago. I started down the path of
> camlocs from Skybolt and changed back to hinge. The issue with the skybolt
> camlocs is the new cowl does not have enough edge overlap as part of the
> joggle. You will have to grind the cowl along the upper edge to create a
> large enough flat area for the camloc strip to sit on. A lot of work and
> weakening the cowl. The hinge does just fine, after 250 hours it is a
> piece of cake to remove. I used 5 #8 screws at the bottom on each side.
> >
> > --------
> > Bill
> > WA0SYV
> > Aviation Partners, LLC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422366#422366
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Koelzer <40950(at)rv10.net> |
Anyone else having problems resolving www.vansairforce.net?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I used stock hinges on mine. 40983 12/1/09-12/1/2011. At 100 hrs bottom left hinge
loops all broken and 1 loop on the right side broken. Replaced both sides
with .063" and 6 #8's per side.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422482#422482
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
Yes, no response whatsoever
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Koelzer
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2014 10:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Vansairforce
Anyone else having problems resolving www.vansairforce.net?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vansairforce |
| From: | David King <daviid(at)gmail.com> |
i could of sworn i saw something on there about a server change or server
update this weekend
On Sun, Apr 27, 2014 at 10:44 PM, William Greenley wrote:
>
> Yes, no response whatsoever
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Koelzer
> Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2014 10:25 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Vansairforce
>
>
> Anyone else having problems resolving www.vansairforce.net?
>
>
--
David King
www.daviid.net
This email is not a consent to add this address to your email list. Do not
add this email address to your email list, unless specifically asked to do
so.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vansairforce |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Same here.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422509#422509
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pireps on KFFA, KMQI and W95. |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
We are planning a 3 day trip to the OBX after Memorial Day. Any advice on accomodations,
restaurants, things to see and do would be much appreciated.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422567#422567
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Pireps on KFFA, KMQI and W95. |
Been to all three - great places to see.
For FFA go for the experience. From there fly to MQI for the food. After
that on to W95 (Ocracoke Island) to say a couple of days. I called the
Castle B&B and made arrangements for them to pick us up after the airplane
was tied down. They were happy to do it
http://www.thecastlebb.com/Ocracoke/ We stayed at the Castle three days -
and highly recommend it.
No need for rental cars and Ocracoke is not a tourist trap. Plenty of nice
mom and pop places to eat and things to do within easy walking distance.
Carl
Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10flyer
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 11:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pireps on KFFA, KMQI and W95.
We are planning a 3 day trip to the OBX after Memorial Day. Any advice on
accomodations, restaurants, things to see and do would be much appreciated.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422567#422567
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dumb hardware inventory question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I have a few plastic bags of hardware, mostly in the 507 number range that
I do not have listed on the Finish hardware, the FWF hardware, or anywhere
else I can find. Was looking all over for some baffling hardware, like the
two spark plug access hole covers, and finally found these 3 or 4 bags that
were not listed anywhere that I can see.
About the time I began on the fuselage, I stopped emptying all the bags of
parts into labeled drawers and found it was generally easier to take the
part number in the plans, find it on the inventory and go to the numbered
bag. One of these days, I think would be a good project to take and
combine the hardware inventory lists into a complete, single spreadsheet of
parts by bag number, that was searchable by computer, to speed things up
for future builders. Just as soon as I find the round tuit. ;-)
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb hardware inventory question |
| From: | Bruce Hoppe <bruce.hoppe(at)yahoo.com> |
I scanned all my inventory lists into one searchable PDF file in Evernote. I
left everything grouped with one bag per drawer in several plastic hardware
cabinets. If I do not find something immediately, then I search for the pa
rt on my iPad. I can then find the bag/drawer number.Works well. With a se
archable PDF, you do not need a spreadsheet. It only took a couple of minut
es to setup. Some common hardware items, such as bolts, nuts, nut plates, e
tc might be easier to find in separate drawers.
Bruce
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 30, 2014, at 11:38 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I have a few plastic bags of hardware, mostly in the 507 number range tha
t I do not have listed on the Finish hardware, the FWF hardware, or anywhere
else I can find. Was looking all over for some baffling hardware, like the t
wo spark plug access hole covers, and finally found these 3 or 4 bags that w
ere not listed anywhere that I can see.
> About the time I began on the fuselage, I stopped emptying all the bags of
parts into labeled drawers and found it was generally easier to take the pa
rt number in the plans, find it on the inventory and go to the numbered bag.
One of these days, I think would be a good project to take and combine the
hardware inventory lists into a complete, single spreadsheet of parts by ba
g number, that was searchable by computer, to speed things up for future bui
lders. Just as soon as I find the round tuit. ;-)
> Kelly
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Now this one is getting interesting.
I measured the RG-400 antenna cable and found on the antenna side that on the female
BNC connector the shield and the center pin are somehow connected, which
shouldn't be the case.
The weird thing however is, that if I measure the cable from the other side the
shield and the center pin are not connected?! I tested this several times and
measured connectivity of the shields on both sides which is positiv.
Does anyone have an idea what's going on?
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422616#422616
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Are you disconnecting it from the radio while you are checking continuity?
If it's connected to the radio, it will show a dead short when checked from the
other end.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 30, 2014, at 3:56 PM, "Mike Whisky" wrote:
Now this one is getting interesting.
I measured the RG-400 antenna cable and found on the antenna side that on the female
BNC connector the shield and the center pin are somehow connected, which
shouldn't be the case.
The weird thing however is, that if I measure the cable from the other side the
shield and the center pin are not connected?! I tested this several times and
measured connectivity of the shields on both sides which is positiv.
Does anyone have an idea what's going on?
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422616#422616
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dumb hardware inventory question |
Sounds good. I agree, acrobat searchable is just as good as spreadsheet.
Would you consider sharing your document?
On 4/30/2014 12:40 PM, Bruce Hoppe wrote:
> I scanned all my inventory lists into one searchable PDF file in
> Evernote. I left everything grouped with one bag per drawer in
> several plastic hardware cabinets. If I do not find something
> immediately, then I search for the part on my iPad. I can then find
> the bag/drawer number.Works well. With a searchable PDF, you do not
> need a spreadsheet. It only took a couple of minutes to setup. Some
> common hardware items, such as bolts, nuts, nut plates, etc might be
> easier to find in separate drawers.
>
> Bruce
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 30, 2014, at 11:38 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
>> I have a few plastic bags of hardware, mostly in the 507 number
>> range that I do not have listed on the Finish hardware, the FWF
>> hardware, or anywhere else I can find. Was looking all over for some
>> baffling hardware, like the two spark plug access hole covers, and
>> finally found these 3 or 4 bags that were not listed anywhere that I
>> can see.
>> About the time I began on the fuselage, I stopped emptying all the
>> bags of parts into labeled drawers and found it was generally easier
>> to take the part number in the plans, find it on the inventory and go
>> to the numbered bag. One of these days, I think would be a good
>> project to take and combine the hardware inventory lists into a
>> complete, single spreadsheet of parts by bag number, that was
>> searchable by computer, to speed things up for future builders. Just
>> as soon as I find the round tuit. ;-)
>> Kelly
>> *
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HID landing lights |
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Oops, use this email address!
On May 1, 2014, at 8:57 AM, Miller DeSha wrote:
> I have a new, unused set (2) of 50w MR16 high intensity landing lights sold by
Planelights.com. They are a direct replacement for the stock Vans landing lights.
>
> I have decided to not install them in my plane.
>
> The set includes the bulbs, ballasts and installation instructions. All for
$100.
>
> Contact me off line.
>
> grumpy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Yes it was disconnected.
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422683#422683
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
If so, this pretty well narrows it down to a bad connector (braid sometimes
shorts, sometimes not). Try mechanically agitating (wiggling) the connector
at each end and see if you can make the short go away.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Whisky
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 2:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W)
Yes it was disconnected.
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422683#422683
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
I get a lot of static on my Garmin 430 and on the SL-40 when the transmitti
ng person keys their mike. Only then. Sometimes its so loud its hard to und
erstand them. I've tried all kinds of squelch settings to no avail. Any ide
as to help me??
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W)
> From: rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net
> Date: Thu=2C 1 May 2014 11:38:30 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Yes it was disconnected.
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422683#422683
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
One thing to check is that your headset plugs are isolated from any metal
that is conductive/aluminum or carbon fiber. I had the same
Problem and it was my rear head set jacks. The isolator washers were the
problem. I would at least check all the headset jacks for proper
Isolation.
Geoff Combs
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 3:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W)
I get a lot of static on my Garmin 430 and on the SL-40 when the
transmitting person keys their mike. Only then. Sometimes its so loud its
hard to understand them. I've tried all kinds of squelch settings to no
avail. Any ideas to help me??
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W)
> From: rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net <mailto:rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
> Date: Thu, 1 May 2014 11:38:30 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> Yes it was disconnected.
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422683#422683
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>===
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) |
I will do that. Thanks Geoff!!
From: g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W)
Date: Fri=2C 2 May 2014 15:39:40 -0400
One thing to check is that your headset plugs are isolated from any metal t
hat is conductive/aluminum or carbon fiber. I had the sameProblem and it wa
s my rear head set jacks. The isolator washers were the problem. I would at
least check all the headset jacks for properIsolation. Geoff Combs From:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matroni
cs.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday=2C May 01=2C 2014 3:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS430W) I ge
t a lot of static on my Garmin 430 and on the SL-40 when the transmitting p
erson keys their mike. Only then. Sometimes its so loud its hard to underst
and them. I've tried all kinds of squelch settings to no avail. Any ideas t
o help me??> Subject: RV10-List: Re: How to eliminate noise on COMM 1 (GNS4
30W)
> From: rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net
> Date: Thu=2C 1 May 2014 11:38:30 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Yes it was disconnected.
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422683#422683
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>===
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HID landing lights |
I'll take them if they are still available.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 6:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: HID landing lights
Oops, use this email address!
On May 1, 2014, at 8:57 AM, Miller DeSha wrote:
> I have a new, unused set (2) of 50w MR16 high intensity landing lights
sold by Planelights.com. They are a direct replacement for the stock Vans
landing lights.
>
> I have decided to not install them in my plane.
>
> The set includes the bulbs, ballasts and installation instructions. All
for $100.
>
> Contact me off line.
>
> grumpy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HID landing lights |
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
They are if you still want them. Confirm you still want them and I'll get them
off to you today and you can drop a check in the mail.
My address is
John Miller
109 Troon Way
Tullahoma, TN 37388
On May 1, 2014, at 8:22 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> I'll take them if they are still available.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 6:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: HID landing lights
>
>
> Oops, use this email address!
>
> On May 1, 2014, at 8:57 AM, Miller DeSha wrote:
>
>> I have a new, unused set (2) of 50w MR16 high intensity landing lights
> sold by Planelights.com. They are a direct replacement for the stock Vans
> landing lights.
>>
>> I have decided to not install them in my plane.
>>
>> The set includes the bulbs, ballasts and installation instructions. All
> for $100.
>>
>> Contact me off line.
>>
>> grumpy
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HID landing lights |
OK John, I want them. I'll get a bucket of money heading your way.
Albert Gardner
3366 W 12th Lane
Yuma, AZ 85364
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: HID landing lights
They are if you still want them. Confirm you still want them and I'll get
them off to you today and you can drop a check in the mail.
My address is
John Miller
109 Troon Way
Tullahoma, TN 37388
On May 1, 2014, at 8:22 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> -->
>
> I'll take them if they are still available.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 6:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: HID landing lights
>
>
> Oops, use this email address!
>
> On May 1, 2014, at 8:57 AM, Miller DeSha wrote:
>
>> I have a new, unused set (2) of 50w MR16 high intensity landing
>> lights
> sold by Planelights.com. They are a direct replacement for the stock
> Vans landing lights.
>>
>> I have decided to not install them in my plane.
>>
>> The set includes the bulbs, ballasts and installation instructions.
>> All
> for $100.
>>
>> Contact me off line.
>>
>> grumpy
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | One more port than I know what to do with... |
In the attached picture, just below the breather tube hose is a red
capped port on my YIO 540. Anyone know what I should be doing with it?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One more port than I know what to do with... |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I"m a little disoriented. Is that the tach drive port?
If so, you'll use it if you have a mechanical tach; if electronic tach, you'll
need to cap it off. AC Spruce sells a suitable cap.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422758#422758
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One more port than I know what to do with... |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
That's for the oil temp probe.
Bob
On Saturday, May 3, 2014, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> In the attached picture, just below the breather tube hose is a red capped
> port on my YIO 540. Anyone know what I should be doing with it?
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Air Oil Separator Installation |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Could other builders please indicate if you've gone to the effort of installing
an air/oil separator on your IO-540 engines?
If so what is the recommended type and location of same in the engine compartment
please?
Any pictures of installations would be greatly appreciated too please.
Warm regards and wishing you all safe skies.
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TruTrak AP Pitch Servo issue |
| From: | "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I love my DigiFlight II VSGV, but recently experienced an in-flight loss of altitude
command in my Pitch Servo. The only symptom of something wrong was lack
of altitude hold (roll works fine).
After landing I powered the AP on back at the hangar and varied the altitude control
to different +/- vertical speeds. The stick moved ever so slightly fwd and
aft. No real force was required to override it manually even though the AP
torque setting was at max).
After removing the baggage compartment bulkhead, I fully expected to see what a
sheared off servo bolt looks like... However, it's still intact and looks fine.
Closer inspection showed nothing unusual with the servo arm, fittings, cable,
phenolitic wheel (sp?) pitch tube or wires.
The servo acted like it was trying to move the pitch tube (things were clicking),
nothing was happening. I watched the servo running and noticed a loose factory
set screw where the blue motor housing attaches to gold base.
Yikes! I'll be calling TT Monday first thing Monday and will report on how this
turns out. Guess I'll be adding add a visual/physical inspection of the blue
servo motor housing to my annual checklist.
Cheers,
Jay
433RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422763#422763
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Air Oil Separator Installation |
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
This is what I'm using. It works. I collect the oil - not return it to th
e engine. I empty out a couple of ounces each oil change.
Carl
> On May 3, 2014, at 5:51 PM, Patrick Pulis wrot
e:
>
>
> Could other builders please indicate if you've gone to the effort of insta
lling an air/oil separator on your IO-540 engines?
>
> If so what is the recommended type and location of same in the engine comp
artment please?
>
> Any pictures of installations would be greatly appreciated too please.
>
> Warm regards and wishing you all safe skies.
>
> Patrick Pulis
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
>
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