RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ju
June 18, 2014 - Present
> 1. If the engine stopped for benign reasons, e.g., fuel depletion in one tank,
and you switched tanks, won't the wind resistance on the prop jump start the
engine? and if so, is it better to have the prop in max setting or min setting
for this?
>
> 2. Why does open throttle reduce drag?
1. If you run a tank dry, the mechanical fuel pump, which does not pump air well,
won't help much, so RPM doesn't really matter. You'll need the boost pump.
2. Windmilling engine is expending energy pumping air, like a vacuum cleaner. Opening
the throttle removes a restriction, raises MP, engine doesn't do as much
work.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425062#425062
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for a source of 2024 |
Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum angle?
It is called to be used for the Instrument Panel Support Angle, both
inboard and outboard, as described in Figure 1 on page 41-5. I have
looked around and cannot find anyone who has it smaller than .063. I
would really appreciate any leads.
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a source of 2024 |
I always just use .063".
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 18, 2014, at 8:32 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum angle? It is called
to be used for the Instrument Panel Support Angle, both inboard and outboard,
as described in Figure 1 on page 41-5. I have looked around and cannot find
anyone who has it smaller than .063. I would really appreciate any leads.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a source of 2024 |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
It's not the extruded material like the .063, it's bent .032 sheet to make
3/4 angle. Avail from Van's.
Bob
On Wednesday, June 18, 2014, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum angle? It
> is called to be used for the Instrument Panel Support Angle, both inboard
> and outboard, as described in Figure 1 on page 41-5. I have looked around
> and cannot find anyone who has it smaller than .063. I would really
> appreciate any leads.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a source of 2024 |
Jesse,
I have some .063 purchased from Aircraft Spruce, but I am having
issues with getting it to work on the inboard angle. I am trying to use
the angle between the F1044 and the panel, but there doesn't seem to be
the room for it. I spoke with Ken at Van's yesterday about notching out
the part that would contact the aft portion of the F1044, the short
surface with the nut plate, but he did not agree that notching it out
would be a viable idea.
Ed Godfrey
40717
On 6/18/2014 7:40 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I always just use .063".
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Jun 18, 2014, at 8:32 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>
>>
>> Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum angle? It is
called to be used for the Instrument Panel Support Angle, both inboard and outboard,
as described in Figure 1 on page 41-5. I have looked around and cannot
find anyone who has it smaller than .063. I would really appreciate any leads.
>>
>> Ed Godfrey
>> 40717
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a source of 2024 |
Bob,
Thanks for the info. That might work for the space between the
F1044 and the panel surface.
Ed Godfrey
40717
On 6/18/2014 8:10 PM, Bob Condrey wrote:
> It's not the extruded material like the .063, it's bent .032 sheet to
> make 3/4 angle. Avail from Van's.
>
> Bob
>
> On Wednesday, June 18, 2014, Ed Godfrey > wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum
> angle? It is called to be used for the Instrument Panel Support
> Angle, both inboard and outboard, as described in Figure 1 on page
> 41-5. I have looked around and cannot find anyone who has it
> smaller than .063. I would really appreciate any leads.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
> ===================================
> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> MS -
> k">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> e -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a source of 2024 |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
I notched mine recently. I had no choice but to rebuild the rib because of
interference with the panel.
I went ahead and reenforced the webbing of the rib with .063. Then I added
a piece of 3/4 angle to rebuild the flange that I removed. I'm confident
that is stronger than the original design and I don't think it will
collapse over time, but only time will tell.
If I had photos I'd share them, but the plane is in the hangar (3.5 hours
away) and I'm in the recliner. :)
Phil
On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 9:32 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
> Bob,
> Thanks for the info. That might work for the space between the F1044
> and the panel surface.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
> On 6/18/2014 8:10 PM, Bob Condrey wrote:
>
> It's not the extruded material like the .063, it's bent .032 sheet to make
> 3/4 angle. Avail from Van's.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 18, 2014, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
>>
>> Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum angle? It
>> is called to be used for the Instrument Panel Support Angle, both inboard
>> and outboard, as described in Figure 1 on page 41-5. I have looked around
>> and cannot find anyone who has it smaller than .063. I would really
>> appreciate any leads.
>>
>> Ed Godfrey
>> 40717
>>
>> ===================================
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a source of 2024 |
I used some of the stringer profile left over from the tail and wing kits. T
he J can be arranged so as not to interfere with the cutouts, or cut off wit
h a bandsaw.
Sent from my iPad
On 19.06.2014, at 03:10, Bob Condrey wrote:
> It's not the extruded material like the .063, it's bent .032 sheet to make
3/4 angle. Avail from Van's.
>
> Bob
>
> On Wednesday, June 18, 2014, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum angle? It i
s called to be used for the Instrument Panel Support Angle, both inboard and
outboard, as described in Figure 1 on page 41-5. I have looked around and c
annot find anyone who has it smaller than .063. I would really appreciate an
y leads.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
> =========================
> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> =========================
> MS -
> k">http://forums.matronics.com
> =========================
> e -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> =========================
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a source of 2024 |
I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to do.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 18, 2014, at 10:30 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
>
> Jesse,
> I have some .063 purchased from Aircraft Spruce, but I am having issues with
getting it to work on the inboard angle. I am trying to use the angle between
the F1044 and the panel, but there doesn't seem to be the room for it. I spoke
with Ken at Van's yesterday about notching out the part that would contact
the aft portion of the F1044, the short surface with the nut plate, but he did
not agree that notching it out would be a viable idea.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>> On 6/18/2014 7:40 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>> I always just use .063".
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> 352-427-0285
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Jun 18, 2014, at 8:32 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum angle? It is
called to be used for the Instrument Panel Support Angle, both inboard and outboard,
as described in Figure 1 on page 41-5. I have looked around and cannot
find anyone who has it smaller than .063. I would really appreciate any leads.
>>>
>>> Ed Godfrey
>>> 40717
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door strut brackets |
| From: | "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I sent the following note to Sean at planearound.com.
"I've been flying my -10 with two of the door strut brackets (and McMaster seals)
for just over a year. Recently my son opened the passenger side door and the
bracket snapped in two. Nothing special about the door or how he opened it as
far as I could tell."
Sean emailed back asking if I had plastic or metal brackets. Mine were plastic.
He generously offered to send me replacement metal brackets for no charge. They
arrived promptly and fit perfectly.
Great customer service! It's nice when a vendor stands behind their product and
goes out of their way to ensure a happy (repeat) customer.
Cheers,
Jay
433RV - flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425130#425130
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a source of 2024 |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
What Dimension do you need?
John Cox - 40600
On Thu, Jun 19, 2014 at 5:10 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
>
> I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to do.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jun 18, 2014, at 10:30 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
> >
> >
> > Jesse,
> > I have some .063 purchased from Aircraft Spruce, but I am having
> issues with getting it to work on the inboard angle. I am trying to use the
> angle between the F1044 and the panel, but there doesn't seem to be the
> room for it. I spoke with Ken at Van's yesterday about notching out the
> part that would contact the aft portion of the F1044, the short surface
> with the nut plate, but he did not agree that notching it out would be a
> viable idea.
> >
> > Ed Godfrey
> > 40717
> >
> >> On 6/18/2014 7:40 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> >>
> >> I always just use .063".
> >>
> >> Jesse Saint
> >> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> >> 352-427-0285
> >> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >>> On Jun 18, 2014, at 8:32 PM, Ed Godfrey
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Does anyone know of a source of some 2024 T3 .032 aluminum angle?
> It is called to be used for the Instrument Panel Support Angle, both
> inboard and outboard, as described in Figure 1 on page 41-5. I have looked
> around and cannot find anyone who has it smaller than .063. I would really
> appreciate any leads.
> >>>
> >>> Ed Godfrey
> >>> 40717
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
I came across another couple of possibilities when I received this:
(1)
On November 16, 2013, a Piper PA-28-140 lost engine power shortly after
takeoff and crashed, resulting in a destroyed aircraft and a seriously
injured pilot. Why? Read on.
You are probably very familiar with the air ducts commonly referred to as
"SCAT," "SCEET," "CAT," and "CEET." You may have replaced some on the
aircraft engines you have worked. You might even keep a ready supply on
hand. Although we are not going to go into detail about each duct here, we
do caution you to ensure that the one you are using is acceptable for the
particular application intended. Beware! Although it "looks like a duct,"
"feels like a duct," or "fits like a duct," it may not function like the
"approved" duct for your specific job.
Investigation revealed that the "SCAT" duct installed as a carburetor air
inlet duct on the mishap PA-28-140 did not meet the specifications of the
air duct authorized and provided by Piper. The duct COLLAPSED, thereby
cutting off air flow to the engine.
An approved Piper inlet duct is engineered and designed to operate in a
vacuum of -12 inches of HG (mercury), at temperatures between -65 to +500
degrees Fahrenheit. The wire supporting the duct is .048 inches in diameter.
Although the collapsed duct had the correct inside diameter, the wall
thickness was thinner and the wire size was several thousandths less than
the Piper duct.
We believe that "off the shelf" ducts may be being used as a normal
replacement part instead of the authorized Piper carburetor air inlet duct.
We say this because there have been no approved carburetor air inlets ducts
ordered from Piper since 1999 even though the FAA registry indicates there
are over 5000 registered PA-28-140 aircraft.
What can you do to help prevent another accident? Well, if applicable, check
your fleet of PA-28-140 aircraft. Pass the word to the owners and operators
who fly these aircraft, as well as your AMT colleagues that maintain these
aircraft. The number one thing you can do is always research the
manufacturer's manuals to validate you are using approved replacement parts.
Finally, never replace components based on what was previously installed.
Trust, but verify.
See Maintenance Safety Tip-1209, "Who do YOU Trust?" published August 2012.
<http://www.faasafety.gov/SPANS/noticeView.aspx?nid=4046>
http://www.faasafety.gov/SPANS/noticeView.aspx?nid=4046.
(2) There are SBs and ADs on the carburetors (Precision Air Motive I
believe) . The carb float sinks and fails to control fuel to engine. Too
much fuel will not light; perhaps a mixture at almost idle cutoff may cause
a light.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | plastic protector |
I'm getting ready to install the windshield and am looking for a product
to protect the plastic while I work near the edges. I have seen a
paint-on or spray-on latex that will peel off when the installation is
done .... but I can't remember what the product name is. Any ideas???
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: plastic protector |
| From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
Not the answer you were looking for, but...I used some 20 mil pipe tape to outline
the area that I wanted the fiberglass to end on the windscreen. 20 mil tape
is very thick and durable which allowed me to sand down to it without fear of
hitting the plexi. The rest of the windscreen was just covered with the plastic
it came with from Desser...but that plastic is just there to prevent the random
bit of epoxy or other debris from touching or damaging it.
Learned the tape trick from Wally at Synergy Air.
D
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Flying!
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425249#425249
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baffling Question |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
I am trying to fit the CB-1001A Front Baffle (Ref. Page FF2-14) which as shown
on the plans, should fit snugly over and around the MT P-420-3 propeller governor.
Vans sent me the MT P-860-3 propeller governor with my Firewall Forward kit, which
is now installed on my engine. This governor has a lip around the front which
prevents the CB-1001A Front Baffle from slipping over the governor.
I am tempted to cut the hole in the CB-1001A Front Baffle much larger, however
this will then mean that I will need to seal around the opening in the CB-1001A,
as once the baffle is over the front of the governor, the body of the governor
reduces in diameter, leaving about a 1/4" gap around the governor to the edge
of the hole in the CB-1001A.
Have I buggered up my interpretations of the plan, or does the new propeller governor
just not fit the CB-1001A baffle as was originally intended?
If so, what are people using to seal the gap between the propeller governor and
the CB-1001A.
After mucking around with these baffles, I can now see why people install plenums
in lieu of baffles!
I'd appreciate your assistance and any links or photos that could assist me please.
Warm regards and thanks in anticipation.
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
#40299
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: plastic protector |
You are probably thiking to this stuff referred to as "spraylat".
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/discoat4220plexiglass1.php?clickkey=9996
It's commonly used in the Rutan based construction of the Long EZ's and Cozy's
but most folks have moved away from it due to the difficulty in removal when everything
is done. What we used building the Cozy and what I used on my -10 was
common 3/4" wide electrical tape. It stretches to form curves very easily and
peels off leaving very little to no residue. Do about 2 width's of tape wide,
overlapping an 1/8", then follow up with a layer of duct tape on top of that.
Gorilla tape works very well and provides a good margin of safety from marking
up the glass from sanding and other cutting tools. The remainder of the transparency
can be covered in heavy 10 mill plastic.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2014 11:12:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: plastic protector
I'm getting ready to install the windshield and am looking for a product
to protect the plastic while I work near the edges. I have seen a
paint-on or spray-on latex that will peel off when the installation is
done .... but I can't remember what the product name is. Any ideas???
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
That part is always hard to fit. You can trim it as necessary and then seal it
(RTV works well). You could also use baffle seal to fill the gap.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 22, 2014, at 6:47 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
>
> I am trying to fit the CB-1001A Front Baffle (Ref. Page FF2-14) which as shown
on the plans, should fit snugly over and around the MT P-420-3 propeller governor.
>
> Vans sent me the MT P-860-3 propeller governor with my Firewall Forward kit,
which is now installed on my engine. This governor has a lip around the front
which prevents the CB-1001A Front Baffle from slipping over the governor.
>
> I am tempted to cut the hole in the CB-1001A Front Baffle much larger, however
this will then mean that I will need to seal around the opening in the CB-1001A,
as once the baffle is over the front of the governor, the body of the governor
reduces in diameter, leaving about a 1/4" gap around the governor to the
edge of the hole in the CB-1001A.
>
> Have I buggered up my interpretations of the plan, or does the new propeller
governor just not fit the CB-1001A baffle as was originally intended?
>
> If so, what are people using to seal the gap between the propeller governor and
the CB-1001A.
>
> After mucking around with these baffles, I can now see why people install plenums
in lieu of baffles!
>
> I'd appreciate your assistance and any links or photos that could assist me please.
>
> Warm regards and thanks in anticipation.
>
> Patrick Pulis
> Adelaide, South Australia
> #40299
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
On 6/22/2014 6:47 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> I am trying to fit the CB-1001A Front Baffle (Ref. Page FF2-14) which as shown
on the plans, should fit snugly over and around the MT P-420-3 propeller governor.
>
> Vans sent me the MT P-860-3 propeller governor with my Firewall Forward kit,
which is now installed on my engine. This governor has a lip around the front
which prevents the CB-1001A Front Baffle from slipping over the governor.
>
> I am tempted to cut the hole in the CB-1001A Front Baffle much larger, however
this will then mean that I will need to seal around the opening in the CB-1001A,
as once the baffle is over the front of the governor, the body of the governor
reduces in diameter, leaving about a 1/4" gap around the governor to the
edge of the hole in the CB-1001A.
>
> Have I buggered up my interpretations of the plan, or does the new propeller
governor just not fit the CB-1001A baffle as was originally intended?
I think you've got it right!
> If so, what are people using to seal the gap between the propeller governor and
the CB-1001A.
I haven't done it yet but I'm planning on a combination of fiberglass
sheet and the cowl seal material.
> After mucking around with these baffles, I can now see why people install plenums
in lieu of baffles!
I'm going to install a plenum .... I hate cowl seal. I also want to
convert the inlets to round ones. The reason I haven't done that
already is I'm on the fence with making my own or going the Sam James route.
Linn ..... just riveted on the fwd upper fuselage!!!
>
> I'd appreciate your assistance and any links or photos that could assist me please.
>
> Warm regards and thanks in anticipation.
>
> Patrick Pulis
> Adelaide, South Australia
> #40299
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plastic protector |
Thanks David! I thought it was 'Spraylat' but Bing coughed up a paint
company .... and I just couldn't find it. The search engine in ACS
couldn't find anything either ..... used a bunch of keywords. I'll
probably do your suggestion. Thanks.
Linn
On 6/22/2014 6:57 AM, David Clifford wrote:
> You are probably thiking to this stuff referred to as "spraylat".
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/discoat4220plexiglass1.php?clickkey=9996
> It's commonly used in the Rutan based construction of the Long EZ's
> and Cozy's but most folks have moved away from it due to the
> difficulty in removal when everything is done. What we used building
> the Cozy and what I used on my -10 was common 3/4" wide electrical
> tape. It stretches to form curves very easily and peels off leaving
> very little to no residue. Do about 2 width's of tape wide,
> overlapping an 1/8", then follow up with a layer of duct tape on top
> of that. Gorilla tape works very well and provides a good margin of
> safety from marking up the glass from sanding and other cutting tools.
> The remainder of the transparency can be covered in heavy 10 mill plastic.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
> *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent: *Saturday, June 21, 2014 11:12:00 PM
> *Subject: *RV10-List: plastic protector
>
>
> I'm getting ready to install the windshield and am looking for a product
> to protect the plastic while I work near the edges. I have seen a
> paint-on or spray-on latex that will peel off when the installation is
> done .... but I can't remember what the product name is. =
> &=
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Thanks Linn
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 22 Jun 2014, at 21:41, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
>> On 6/22/2014 6:47 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>>
>> I am trying to fit the CB-1001A Front Baffle (Ref. Page FF2-14) which as shown
on the plans, should fit snugly over and around the MT P-420-3 propeller governor.
>>
>> Vans sent me the MT P-860-3 propeller governor with my Firewall Forward kit,
which is now installed on my engine. This governor has a lip around the front
which prevents the CB-1001A Front Baffle from slipping over the governor.
>>
>> I am tempted to cut the hole in the CB-1001A Front Baffle much larger, however
this will then mean that I will need to seal around the opening in the CB-1001A,
as once the baffle is over the front of the governor, the body of the governor
reduces in diameter, leaving about a 1/4" gap around the governor to the
edge of the hole in the CB-1001A.
>>
>> Have I buggered up my interpretations of the plan, or does the new propeller
governor just not fit the CB-1001A baffle as was originally intended?
> I think you've got it right!
>> If so, what are people using to seal the gap between the propeller governor
and the CB-1001A.
> I haven't done it yet but I'm planning on a combination of fiberglass sheet and
the cowl seal material.
>> After mucking around with these baffles, I can now see why people install plenums
in lieu of baffles!
> I'm going to install a plenum .... I hate cowl seal. I also want to convert
the inlets to round ones. The reason I haven't done that already is I'm on the
fence with making my own or going the Sam James route.
> Linn ..... just riveted on the fwd upper fuselage!!!
>
>>
>> I'd appreciate your assistance and any links or photos that could assist me
please.
>>
>> Warm regards and thanks in anticipation.
>>
>> Patrick Pulis
>> Adelaide, South Australia
>> #40299
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
If you are on the fence, there is one more alternative that may be
better than Sam James: Showplanes RV-10 cowling....
http://tinyurl.com/ojlo6f5
No personal knowledge, just know it exists.
On 6/22/2014 5:11 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
> .... I hate cowl seal. I also want to convert the inlets to
> round ones. The reason I haven't done that already is I'm on the
> fence with making my own or going the Sam James route.
> Linn ..... just riveted on the fwd upper fuselage!!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
Thanks Kelly. Always good to have a couple of approaches. I already
have the Van's cowl fitted and just can't justify pitching it. I'm
enjoying the 'journey' and doing some mods to improve (I hope) the Van's
approach.
I didn't like Van's alt air ...... I know, you can reset it after
shutdown .... so I did this:
Because I can ......
I'd probably be flying by now if it wasn't for all the mods :-P
Linn
On 6/22/2014 8:45 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> If you are on the fence, there is one more alternative that may be
> better than Sam James: Showplanes RV-10 cowling....
> http://tinyurl.com/ojlo6f5
> No personal knowledge, just know it exists.
>
> On 6/22/2014 5:11 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>> .... I hate cowl seal. I also want to convert the inlets to
>> round ones. The reason I haven't done that already is I'm on the
>> fence with making my own or going the Sam James route.
>> Linn ..... just riveted on the fwd upper fuselage!!!
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I put a small piece of piano hinge on the back face of that baffle piece. That
allowed me to have a nice tight fitting around the governor and be able to open
the hole around the governor via the hinge to get it in and out easier.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425279#425279
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
| From: | "Jackm" <jackm(at)vinetechequipment.com> |
Patrick.
Send email to jackm(at)vinetechequipment.com . I will reply with pictures of what
we did. Prop cable is also routed above engine and left heat input is on rear
right baffle. Prop cable above allows for better seal because you don't need to
cut ramp for prop lever clearance
--------
Jackm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425283#425283
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
I plan to defer painting until I have flown a bit, and then have it done professionally.
The question is whether to put a coat of UV SmoothPrime on the fiberglass
parts as temporary protection. Will a professional paint shop have a problem
with this when the time comes for the final paint job?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425349#425349
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Question |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
That should not be a problem. Filling the pinholes before flying would assure that
oil and stuff doesn't get trapped in the pinholes.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 24, 2014, at 12:32 AM, "bob88" wrote:
>
>
> I plan to defer painting until I have flown a bit, and then have it done professionally.
The question is whether to put a coat of UV SmoothPrime on the fiberglass
parts as temporary protection. Will a professional paint shop have a problem
with this when the time comes for the final paint job?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425349#425349
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Question |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
Thats what I did, no problems whatsoever. Looks a lot nicer too!
Marcus
40286
On Jun 24, 2014, at 12:32 AM, bob88 wrote:
I plan to defer painting until I have flown a bit, and then have it done professionally.
The question is whether to put a coat of UV SmoothPrime on the fiberglass
parts as temporary protection. Will a professional paint shop have a problem
with this when the time comes for the final paint job?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425349#425349
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
A Lancair 4 builder at the airpark used SmoothPrime for protection during
construction. He would do all the body work, then coat/sand the SmoothPrime
until satisfied. The last step was to add another coat of SmoothPrime on
top but then not sand it. The final sanding would then be just before
paint.
If you are going to fly before paint then recommend you do all the
SmoothPrime/sand applications you want but the last step would be to use an
epoxy primer on top. What I learned with SmoothPrime on my plane is it
takes several days for this water based product to really cure - and then
never wet sand it. SmoothPrime is not designed to withstand the elements.
For the next airplane I'll most likely not use SmoothPrime. Instead I'll
use PPG filler primers (K36 and K38) after surface prep.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2014 12:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint Question
I plan to defer painting until I have flown a bit, and then have it done
professionally. The question is whether to put a coat of UV SmoothPrime on
the fiberglass parts as temporary protection. Will a professional paint shop
have a problem with this when the time comes for the final paint job?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425349#425349
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: plastic protector |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I used it, and really liked it. You need to put multiple coats on, so that it will
peel off later. I just painted it on with a brush. I can't think of the name,
but I got it from Aircraft Spruce. It comes in a quart plastic bottle, and
it's blue in color. I also have an identical bottle of mould release, that is
green in color - they seem to be identical.
Looking on the AC site, I see two products that it might be:
Plastiease 512B, or PVA Release Film.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425359#425359
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 performance |
Does anyone have TO performance data? I have been using the only data point
I have; I have an experimental point of 2800 gross, 80F and 5200 field
elevation the tower confirmed a ground roll of 2500 feet. This was not a
wind the engine prior to brake release type of data point. My rule of thumb
has been any density altitude less than 10000 and runway length in excess of
5000 is Ok for a gross departure. Of course there are other factors to
consider like nearby terrain and weather but these are all subjective.. Has
anyone created or seen the Van's data on takeoff and landing performance
data? My C177RG had an empty weight of about 1800 and a gross of 2800 on
200HP; Given the 260 HP of the RV10 I would expect at least a 30%
improvement in density altitude performance. Has anybody other DA data
points?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
You wont be disappointed-but I would be cautious of a gross weight departur
e at 10000 density altitude in a cardinal but that's just me.TVL is a commo
n airport for me and the rv-10 is one of the best,no,the best non turbo per
formers I have flown out of there.Havent had to circle the lake yet.Every
rv-10 is a little different things like ei and higher compressions can make
an even bigger difference at high da.
-----Original Message-----
From: DLM <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tue, Jun 24, 2014 5:23 pm
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 performance
Does anyone have TO performance data? I have been using the only data point
I have; I have an experimental point of 2800 gross, 80F and 5200 field ele
vation the tower confirmed a ground roll of 2500 feet. This was not a wind
the engine prior to brake release type of data point. My rule of thumb has
been any density altitude less than 10000 and runway length in excess of 50
00 is Ok for a gross departure. Of course there are other factors to consid
er like nearby terrain and weather but these are all subjective.. Has anyon
e created or seen the Van's data on takeoff and landing performance data? M
y C177RG had an empty weight of about 1800 and a gross of 2800 on 200HP; Gi
ven the 260 HP of the RV10 I would expect at least a 30% improvement in den
sity altitude performance. Has anybody other DA data points?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
I've done a max performance T/O near gross weight at a DA that was just
over 10,000.
Years ago we departed KEMM (ele. 7300') returning to California from
Oshkosh.
Not much wind, warm afternoon. We used RWY 34, which is 8000' long.
Weight was gross less 15 gallons, call it 2600. We ran up and leaned for
max power holding the brakes, and used half flaps.
We were well off the ground and climbing abeam the terminal, which is about
3500' of runway. I decided before T/O to abort if not airborne by that
point since it was easy to identify.
That departure has been my rule of thumb ever since.
For example, we departed KCDC last earlier this month. DA was over 9000,
right at gross weight, and T/O was a complete non-event. We were at least
1000' off the ground by the end of the 8600' runway.
--Dave
On Tue, Jun 24, 2014 at 5:22 PM, DLM wrote:
> Does anyone have TO performance data? I have been using the only data
> point I have; I have an experimental point of 2800 gross, 80F and 5200
> field elevation the tower confirmed a ground roll of 2500 feet. This was
> not a wind the engine prior to brake release type of data point. My rule of
> thumb has been any density altitude less than 10000 and runway length in
> excess of 5000 is Ok for a gross departure. Of course there are other
> factors to consider like nearby terrain and weather but these are all
> subjective.. Has anyone created or seen the Van's data on takeoff and
> landing performance data? My C177RG had an empty weight of about 1800 and a
> gross of 2800 on 200HP; Given the 260 HP of the RV10 I would expect at
> least a 30% improvement in density altitude performance. Has anybody other
> DA data points?
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
If you're using 2800 lbs for gross you will have a tough time finding comparisons,
since most people are using 2700. Remember climb rate is very sensitive to
weight.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425414#425414
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
We took off from UIO (SEQU) at probably 2,800 lbs, rolling uphill, and used a
bout 3,000 ft or less. I think one notch of flaps. The -10 performs great th
ere.
A -10 in Mexico is operating out of a 5,000 MSL airport 600M long and has to
stay about 2,500-2,600 max.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 24, 2014, at 9:13 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> I've done a max performance T/O near gross weight at a DA that was just ov
er 10,000.
>
> Years ago we departed KEMM (ele. 7300') returning to California from Oshko
sh.
>
> Not much wind, warm afternoon. We used RWY 34, which is 8000' long.
>
> Weight was gross less 15 gallons, call it 2600. We ran up and leaned for m
ax power holding the brakes, and used half flaps.
>
> We were well off the ground and climbing abeam the terminal, which is abou
t 3500' of runway. I decided before T/O to abort if not airborne by that po
int since it was easy to identify.
>
> That departure has been my rule of thumb ever since.
>
> For example, we departed KCDC last earlier this month. DA was over 9000, r
ight at gross weight, and T/O was a complete non-event. We were at least 10
00' off the ground by the end of the 8600' runway.
>
> --Dave
>
>
>> On Tue, Jun 24, 2014 at 5:22 PM, DLM wrote:
>> Does anyone have TO performance data? I have been using the only data poi
nt I have; I have an experimental point of 2800 gross, 80F and 5200 field el
evation the tower confirmed a ground roll of 2500 feet. This was not a wind t
he engine prior to brake release type of data point. My rule of thumb has be
en any density altitude less than 10000 and runway length in excess of 5000 i
s Ok for a gross departure. Of course there are other factors to consider li
ke nearby terrain and weather but these are all subjective.. Has anyone crea
ted or seen the Van's data on takeoff and landing performance data? My C177R
G had an empty weight of about 1800 and a gross of 2800 on 200HP; Given the 2
60 HP of the RV10 I would expect at least a 30% improvement in density altit
ude performance. Has anybody other DA data points?
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I attached my T/O table based on my T/O performance test. Please note that max
RPM is reduced to 2500 due to noise regulation here in CH. Aircraft was at MTOW
2700 lbs / 1225 kg. take-off configuration flaps 1 = 0 degrees.
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425436#425436
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_206.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
16,500 with the family fully loaded....but it didn't climb very well.
I'm sure we could have made it higher, but I don't find much point
in going over 14K very much. It starts to become work again.
We don't carry O2 on all flights. I kind of missed it on the one
we just got back from though (write-up coming within 24 hours).
The problem (in my mind at least) with using 16-17k+ to stay above
the weather is that you don't have any performance margin left.
If you're plenty happy to be stuck back into the CB's, then fine,
but if you really want to stay "on top", you have already pushed
into the area where performance of the plane may not give you
much room. To each their own, but I just find it to be more
work as you pass 14K.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | : n46007 performance |
| From: | David <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 performance |
For you flat landers that may be high enough, but for us guys with granite
at that altitude higher is needed. :)
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 performance
16,500 with the family fully loaded....but it didn't climb very well.
I'm sure we could have made it higher, but I don't find much point in going
over 14K very much. It starts to become work again.
We don't carry O2 on all flights. I kind of missed it on the one we just
got back from though (write-up coming within 24 hours).
The problem (in my mind at least) with using 16-17k+ to stay above the
weather is that you don't have any performance margin left.
If you're plenty happy to be stuck back into the CB's, then fine, but if you
really want to stay "on top", you have already pushed into the area where
performance of the plane may not give you much room. To each their own, but
I just find it to be more work as you pass 14K.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
HAHA! Yeah, you got me pegged. ;)
Actually, 15K I think will get you over any granite in the lower 48,
right? (But definitely not with proper IFR clearances).
I wouldn't mind some day, just once, taking a cross country flight
where I only have the wife and I, and minimal baggage. I'm sure my
opinions are set because of my common mode of flight....loaded to
about gross, 4 seats filled. Man what that plane could do if it
were just me in the front, and the wife in the baggage area...for
better cruise C.G. performance, of course. :)
Tim
On 6/25/2014 11:07 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> For you flat landers that may be high enough, but for us guys with granite
> at that altitude higher is needed. :)
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 performance |
Or better yet with your wife in the front and you in the baggage area!!! ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 performance
HAHA! Yeah, you got me pegged. ;)
Actually, 15K I think will get you over any granite in the lower 48, right?
(But definitely not with proper IFR clearances).
I wouldn't mind some day, just once, taking a cross country flight where I
only have the wife and I, and minimal baggage. I'm sure my opinions are set
because of my common mode of flight....loaded to about gross, 4 seats
filled. Man what that plane could do if it were just me in the front, and
the wife in the baggage area...for better cruise C.G. performance, of
course. :) Tim
On 6/25/2014 11:07 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> For you flat landers that may be high enough, but for us guys with
> granite at that altitude higher is needed. :)
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
A friend with a Lancair IVP has plumbed in a bladder in his baggage
compartment that holds ~ 20 gal. He needs that for long range, as he has a
turbo-prop up front.
The bladder is setup with quick disconnects so it can come out when load is
more important than range.
Seems like that would be ideal for the -10, to have an extra 15-20 gal to
not exceed baggage compartment loading, and to give you full IFR reserve
over standard tank capacity, while not changing wing loading or bending
moments. Don't recall if anyone has done baggage compartment tank of any
kind. I know the couple options for extra wing tanks, but am not thrilled
with having more wt further out the wing span. I suppose you could plumb in
a transfer pump to move the fuel to a wing tank after using up 60-90 min
fuel out of that tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
Ha! Yeah, with me back there the cruise would be even faster!
Tim
> On Jun 25, 2014, at 11:48 AM, "Ben Westfall" wrote:
>
>
> Or better yet with your wife in the front and you in the baggage area!!! ;-)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 9:30 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 performance
>
>
>
> HAHA! Yeah, you got me pegged. ;)
>
> Actually, 15K I think will get you over any granite in the lower 48, right?
> (But definitely not with proper IFR clearances).
>
> I wouldn't mind some day, just once, taking a cross country flight where I
> only have the wife and I, and minimal baggage. I'm sure my opinions are set
> because of my common mode of flight....loaded to about gross, 4 seats
> filled. Man what that plane could do if it were just me in the front, and
> the wife in the baggage area...for better cruise C.G. performance, of
> course. :) Tim
>
>
>
>> On 6/25/2014 11:07 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>>
>> For you flat landers that may be high enough, but for us guys with
>> granite at that altitude higher is needed. :)
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> N423CF
>> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I'm not fond of fuel in the cabin. I'm also not fond of sitting in an
airplane and trying to relieve myself in a bottle while flying the
plane. Ok, so I have an autopilot ....... I am really fond of stopping
at 3-4 hours to hit the head and stretch my legs.
Linn
On 6/25/2014 1:20 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> A friend with a Lancair IVP has plumbed in a bladder in his baggage
> compartment that holds ~ 20 gal. He needs that for long range, as he
> has a turbo-prop up front.
> The bladder is setup with quick disconnects so it can come out when
> load is more important than range.
> Seems like that would be ideal for the -10, to have an extra 15-20 gal
> to not exceed baggage compartment loading, and to give you full IFR
> reserve over standard tank capacity, while not changing wing loading
> or bending moments. Don't recall if anyone has done baggage
> compartment tank of any kind. I know the couple options for extra wing
> tanks, but am not thrilled with having more wt further out the wing
> span. I suppose you could plumb in a transfer pump to move the fuel to
> a wing tank after using up 60-90 min fuel out of that tank.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Guys, we need OAT data too. It's density altitude that matters here.
I've been no higher (that I recall) than 16,500' density altitude but that was
with just 2 adults and some luggage, and it flew fine. Weight makes a big difference.
As to the original post: you cannot compare a 177 and -10, even of similar weight,
and extrapolate climb rates, without knowing more information, like lift and
drag data. But if you could magically put 260 HP into the cardinal and keep
the weight the same, you'd see a huge increase in climb rate - a lot more than
30%.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425481#425481
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Unless you throttle back you aren't going to do 4 hours IFR and have
required reserves. I understand the fuel in the cabin, although not sure it
is much different than the fuel in the tunnel issue.
On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 10:52 AM, Linn Walters
wrote:
>
> I'm not fond of fuel in the cabin. I'm also not fond of sitting in an
> airplane and trying to relieve myself in a bottle while flying the plane.
> Ok, so I have an autopilot ....... I am really fond of stopping at 3-4
> hours to hit the head and stretch my legs.
> Linn
>
>
> On 6/25/2014 1:20 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> A friend with a Lancair IVP has plumbed in a bladder in his baggage
> compartment that holds ~ 20 gal. He needs that for long range, as he has a
> turbo-prop up front.
> The bladder is setup with quick disconnects so it can come out when load
> is more important than range.
> Seems like that would be ideal for the -10, to have an extra 15-20 gal to
> not exceed baggage compartment loading, and to give you full IFR reserve
> over standard tank capacity, while not changing wing loading or bending
> moments. Don't recall if anyone has done baggage compartment tank of any
> kind. I know the couple options for extra wing tanks, but am not thrilled
> with having more wt further out the wing span. I suppose you could plumb in
> a transfer pump to move the fuel to a wing tank after using up 60-90 min
> fuel out of that tank.
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
That's not really true. I've had numerous trips where my fuel burn
came out to 10.0gph for the entire flight. That's 6 hours of
total range, and I've never landed with less than 10.2 in the
tanks...but that was nearly 5 hours of flying when I did it.
It's plenty possible to come in with 45 minute reserves after
a 4 hour flight. The trip I just flew I averaged 9.2 to 9.8gph
once I reached cruise...so 4 hours very reasonable.
But, we do use the bottle.
Tim
On 6/25/2014 1:39 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Unless you throttle back you aren't going to do 4 hours IFR and have
> required reserves. I understand the fuel in the cabin, although not sure
> it is much different than the fuel in the tunnel issue.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
If you are burning 10 gph, you are not even close to 75%, i.e. you have
throttled back or
gone higher than where 75% is available. LOP 10 gph=150 hp.
Even lean of peak, 75% is 13 gph or 195hp. That is 4.6 hrs of fuel,
which is less than 4+45,
ignoring you also need fuel to go to alternate. No question you can
extend range by going slower.
On 6/25/2014 12:04 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> That's not really true. I've had numerous trips where my fuel burn
> came out to 10.0gph for the entire flight. That's 6 hours of
> total range, and I've never landed with less than 10.2 in the
> tanks...but that was nearly 5 hours of flying when I did it.
> It's plenty possible to come in with 45 minute reserves after
> a 4 hour flight. The trip I just flew I averaged 9.2 to 9.8gph
> once I reached cruise...so 4 hours very reasonable.
>
> But, we do use the bottle.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 6/25/2014 1:39 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> Unless you throttle back you aren't going to do 4 hours IFR and have
>> required reserves. I understand the fuel in the cabin, although not sure
>> it is much different than the fuel in the tunnel issue.
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
| From: | "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com> |
Y'all be careful out there...
In the aircraft I fly at work, the max speed and min speeds are shown on the airspeed
tape. As we get up near the airplanes limit, it is REALLY eye opening
how little margin there really is...
There is a reason it's called "coffin corner"...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425504#425504
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
So the nice thing about EAB is you get to choose.
700 nm trip? Your choice: put in an extra 20 gal, run 75%, get there in 4 hours;
or keep standard tanks, run 10 gal/hr, get there 20 minutes later and $75 richer.
If I did a lot of really long cross-countries, and was happy with the 'personal
bladder' issues, an extra tank would look attractive if it could eliminate a
fuel stop. Fuel stops never seem to take less than an hour.
But I think I'd draw the line at re-fueling inside the cabin. How do you keep from
flooding the cabin with fuel vapor? In fact I see re-fueling and venting as
major issues to be figured out with aux tanks-even more so if you want them
removable.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425507#425507
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
I dont believe you need a vent with a bladder style tank that collapses as it empties.
Dave Leikam
On Jun 25, 2014, at 7:15 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> So the nice thing about EAB is you get to choose.
> 700 nm trip? Your choice: put in an extra 20 gal, run 75%, get there in 4 hours;
or keep standard tanks, run 10 gal/hr, get there 20 minutes later and $75
richer.
> If I did a lot of really long cross-countries, and was happy with the 'personal
bladder' issues, an extra tank would look attractive if it could eliminate
a fuel stop. Fuel stops never seem to take less than an hour.
> But I think I'd draw the line at re-fueling inside the cabin. How do you keep
from flooding the cabin with fuel vapor? In fact I see re-fueling and venting
as major issues to be figured out with aux tanks-even more so if you want them
removable.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425507#425507
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Actually that was WOT at 9,000 and 11,000'.
13.5 gph is what I may see if I were running ROP.
I almost never see flows over 11gph, and I definitely can count on being
under 12gph for any x/c trip unless I'm down low (under 7000) where
I don't generally fly LOP. If you fly in the 13k-14K range you'll be
more in the
8's for gph, and people like Jesse Saint have had flights in the 7's at
higher
altitudes. So no, that wasn't pulled back...but you're correct that it
was high enough to not be at 75%. It's not really a matter of "going
slower"
however. Sure, we're not getting full speed since we're LOP, but we're
cruising
in the mid 160's LOP.
Tim
On 6/25/2014 5:01 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> If you are burning 10 gph, you are not even close to 75%, i.e. you
> have throttled back or
> gone higher than where 75% is available. LOP 10 gph=150 hp.
> Even lean of peak, 75% is 13 gph or 195hp. That is 4.6 hrs of fuel,
> which is less than 4+45,
> ignoring you also need fuel to go to alternate. No question you can
> extend range by going slower.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Tim,
GAMI and others have shown that for normally aspirated engines in the
compression range of the 260 hp IO-540, fuel flow times 15 equals
horsepower. If you are flying at 10 gph, it is not possible to be
generating over 150 hp. If you are ROP, it takes 10.8 to 11.0 gph to
generate the same horsepower. Vans said the plane goes 153 kts at 55%,
full gross, or 156 kts at 2200 lbs. 11gph would be 165 hp or 64% LOP.
So even though Van's does not give figures for 65% and you are running a
bit less than that, you are at a more efficient power setting than 75%.
You can generate 75% at upwards of 10,000 ft IF you choose to up engine
speed to 2600 or 2700. Limiting rpm to 2300 or 2400 will also limit max
power, and has the same effect as reducing throttle.
Generally one does better to run 75% IF flying into significant headwind.
On 6/25/2014 8:17 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Actually that was WOT at 9,000 and 11,000'.
> 13.5 gph is what I may see if I were running ROP.
> I almost never see flows over 11gph, and I definitely can count on being
> under 12gph for any x/c trip unless I'm down low (under 7000) where
> I don't generally fly LOP. If you fly in the 13k-14K range you'll be
> more in the
> 8's for gph, and people like Jesse Saint have had flights in the 7's
> at higher
> altitudes. So no, that wasn't pulled back...but you're correct that it
> was high enough to not be at 75%. It's not really a matter of "going
> slower"
> however. Sure, we're not getting full speed since we're LOP, but
> we're cruising
> in the mid 160's LOP.
> Tim
>
>
> On 6/25/2014 5:01 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> If you are burning 10 gph, you are not even close to 75%, i.e. you
>> have throttled back or
>> gone higher than where 75% is available. LOP 10 gph=150 hp.
>> Even lean of peak, 75% is 13 gph or 195hp. That is 4.6 hrs of fuel,
>> which is less than 4+45,
>> ignoring you also need fuel to go to alternate. No question you can
>> extend range by going slower.
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Kellym wrote:
> Tim,
>
> Generally one does better to run 75% IF flying into significant headwind.
>
If by better you mean less fuel burned, that's true - but only for headwinds over
100 knots!
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425523#425523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | extra fuel in baggage |
I have a 20 gallon tank that fits thru the baggage door. I installed two
extra bag floor ribs to provide hard points to strap it down. The supply
and vent lines were plumbed in during the build. It=99s plumbed
the same as certified aux fuel systems, that is a pilot activated low
pressure boost pump at the tank sends the fuel thru a check valve and
into the left main tank, after you have burned enough out of the main
tank. The mission for the extra gas (Vancouver Island to Alaska, with no
fuel stops) no longer exists for me, but the system will be used for
tankering for fuel cost savings. I highly recommend that anyone
considering such a system take great care to insure the mounting of the
tank is secure (for abrubt stops). I=99m sure that can be
accomplished with bladders as well, but I wouldn=99t feel good
about just throwing a seat belt over one. I vented my tank overboard,
and I consider that a necessary design consideration as well. Anybody
that would like to see pictures of my installation, send me an email,
off the list.
Chris Hukill
finishing up the cowling
Even more #%!& fiberglass!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Here are some actual numbers out of my Garmin logs. All Ops LOP
D-ALT TAS GPH OAT % PWR
11K 164 10.2 -2.3 59
7K 167 11.5 -1 66
8K 167 11.8 10.5 68
10K 164 11 9 63
In most cases I can gain 10kts running ROP, but the FF rate is in the 14 to 16GPH
range. I flight plan for 11 GPH.
10 more Gallons would make this plane a bit more useful for those flights that
are right on the edge of it's IFR range. But I am not willing to carry fuel in
the cockpit to gain it.
Bill
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425536#425536
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 performance |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Here you go! During my climb performance test. I had to stop at 15k due to airspace
clearance. OAT -9C at MTOW 2700lbs still climbing with 350ft/min at Vy. CHT
gets quite high though.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425556#425556
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_871.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
just returned from a Fl to Ca trip. We did a 4.6 flight with 16 gallons
remaining on the LA to TX leg. This was a headwind flight and would easily
have made 1000 miles with a tail wind. 4 hours is very easy, but I have a my
injectors tuned for LOP so seeing 9.6 GPH at 12.5K is easily done.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Extra fuel
That's not really true. I've had numerous trips where my fuel burn
came out to 10.0gph for the entire flight. That's 6 hours of
total range, and I've never landed with less than 10.2 in the
tanks...but that was nearly 5 hours of flying when I did it.
It's plenty possible to come in with 45 minute reserves after
a 4 hour flight. The trip I just flew I averaged 9.2 to 9.8gph
once I reached cruise...so 4 hours very reasonable.
But, we do use the bottle.
Tim
On 6/25/2014 1:39 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Unless you throttle back you aren't going to do 4 hours IFR and have
> required reserves. I understand the fuel in the cabin, although not sure
> it is much different than the fuel in the tunnel issue.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
OK, I've got to ask...
When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats reading zero,
but the totalizer shows that much left?
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Or, when you get that low on fuel, do you want the fuel evenly divided
between tanks, or all in one tank? Which option gives better indication of
fuel remaining and is more likely to keep steady flow to engine?
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 6:40 AM, johngoodman
wrote:
>
> OK, I've got to ask...
> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats reading
> zero, but the totalizer shows that much left?
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Is this for me?
If so, then no. My floats read very far down before they don't read
anymore. I would bet that the floats still bounce around with 1-2
gallons left in the tanks. I don't remember exactly how low.
I know mine read fine down under 5 gallons. But, I would not
trust them to give exact readings that low. The totalizer,
however, is very very accurate. I usually fill within a just a
couple tenths of a gallon to what I see on the totalizer as
fuel burned.
I have taken both fuel tanks up, one at a time, and flown at
5000' above the airport, and ran them dry, then landed on the
other full tank and sumped out what was left. In the RV-10,
if you run the tanks dry in level flight, you'll only have
about 1-2 cups of fuel that you'll get out of the sumps.
So, most fuel is useable.....but that's level flight.
You may have worse luck with fuel unporting if you
are on descent as the fuel flows into the nose of the tank,
and you may unport quicker depending how you slip/skid
the ball. That's why I don't bother landing with minimal
fuel.
If I were to try to stretch the fuel a little further,
I don't know that I'd go less than 6 gallons, and if I
were that low, I'd much rather have 6 + 0 than 3 + 3,
because my guess is that you could unport fuel pretty
easily at 3 gallons...so I'd rather have one tank much
more full so that unporting isn't a problem on the landing
tank. But that would be more risk than I'd be happy to take,
so 5+5 is really more like what I'm comfortable with.
Tim
On 6/27/2014 8:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> OK, I've got to ask...
> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats reading zero,
but the totalizer shows that much left?
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
What is the alternative? 8^)
I agree with all your points. While I have landed a couple different planes
a couple times with 30 min fuel remaining, it is no where near as
comfortable as landing with 45 min to 60 min fuel remaining. Especially
when some planes have explicit placards of no take-off with less than 1/4
tank. I have always assumed that also meant a significant risk if a
go-around was necessary with less than 1/4 in that tank. Unporting is a
real problem if close to the ground. Fuel injected engines generally want
around 10 seconds to relight after fuel is restored, while carbureted
engines usually will relight almost instantly when they get fuel.
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 6:55 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> That's why I don't bother *landing* with minimal fuel.
>
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 6/27/2014 8:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> OK, I've got to ask...
>> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats
>> reading zero, but the totalizer shows that much left?
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I guess you're right....there aren't many options OTHER than
landing. :)
And I agree 100% with your comments.
I did find when I ran the tanks dry in flight that
the engine went from full power to idle and as fast
as I could turn the valve the power returned, so that
was a positive. I think that with the prop windmilling
the mechanical pump sucked in the fuel pretty quickly.
Regarding the landing with 1 tank with all the fuel,
or landing with split fuel that is minimal in both,
personally while I don't like either option, I think the
safer option is to land with one tank more full. I think
the unporting is a larger risk than the risk of running
one tank dry and switching to the full one for the
remainder of the flight. (as long as you've been
switching the tanks back and forth during the flight
so you know there isn't gunk or water that you're going
to get with that last switch)
If I were (and I won't) trying to go for max range,
I'd switch back and forth every x minutes during
the flight until I got to 10 gallons remaining in
one tank. Then I'd burn the other tank dry, and switch
to that 10 gallon tank for the rest of the trip.
I keep that in my hat for an emergency situation, but
I'm not going to operate that way on a normal x/c
flight, that's for sure.
Tim
On 6/27/2014 9:21 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> What is the alternative? 8^)
>
> I agree with all your points. While I have landed a couple different
> planes a couple times with 30 min fuel remaining, it is no where near as
> comfortable as landing with 45 min to 60 min fuel remaining. Especially
> when some planes have explicit placards of no take-off with less than
> 1/4 tank. I have always assumed that also meant a significant risk if a
> go-around was necessary with less than 1/4 in that tank. Unporting is a
> real problem if close to the ground. Fuel injected engines generally
> want around 10 seconds to relight after fuel is restored, while
> carbureted engines usually will relight almost instantly when they get fuel.
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 6:55 AM, Tim Olson > wrote:
>
> >
> That's why I don't bother _landing_ with minimal fuel.
>
>
> Tim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I'm with Tim on that. Also, when one tank is dry, I trim the ball to the empty
side to reduce the risk if unporting the tank with fuel remaining.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 27, 2014, at 10:39 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I guess you're right....there aren't many options OTHER than
> landing. :)
>
> And I agree 100% with your comments.
>
> I did find when I ran the tanks dry in flight that
> the engine went from full power to idle and as fast
> as I could turn the valve the power returned, so that
> was a positive. I think that with the prop windmilling
> the mechanical pump sucked in the fuel pretty quickly.
>
> Regarding the landing with 1 tank with all the fuel,
> or landing with split fuel that is minimal in both,
> personally while I don't like either option, I think the
> safer option is to land with one tank more full. I think
> the unporting is a larger risk than the risk of running
> one tank dry and switching to the full one for the
> remainder of the flight. (as long as you've been
> switching the tanks back and forth during the flight
> so you know there isn't gunk or water that you're going
> to get with that last switch)
>
> If I were (and I won't) trying to go for max range,
> I'd switch back and forth every x minutes during
> the flight until I got to 10 gallons remaining in
> one tank. Then I'd burn the other tank dry, and switch
> to that 10 gallon tank for the rest of the trip.
> I keep that in my hat for an emergency situation, but
> I'm not going to operate that way on a normal x/c
> flight, that's for sure.
>
> Tim
>
>> On 6/27/2014 9:21 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> What is the alternative? 8^)
>>
>> I agree with all your points. While I have landed a couple different
>> planes a couple times with 30 min fuel remaining, it is no where near as
>> comfortable as landing with 45 min to 60 min fuel remaining. Especially
>> when some planes have explicit placards of no take-off with less than
>> 1/4 tank. I have always assumed that also meant a significant risk if a
>> go-around was necessary with less than 1/4 in that tank. Unporting is a
>> real problem if close to the ground. Fuel injected engines generally
>> want around 10 seconds to relight after fuel is restored, while
>> carbureted engines usually will relight almost instantly when they get fuel.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 6:55 AM, Tim Olson > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>> That's why I don't bother _landing_ with minimal fuel.
>>
>>
>> Tim
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
On 6/27/2014 9:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
Strangely enough, up until recently my fuel gauges always show slightly
more fuel than I actually have and the totalizer slightly less.
Splitting the difference gave me the right number. Running with the
totalizer number gave me a safety factor.
The totalizer issue was due to placing the GRT unit in the Van's plans
location. It ran high when the boost pumps was on and who knows what
else. Relocating it to between the controller and spider makes it
amazingly accurate now.
My fuel gauges never show completely full tanks but they will show even
the slightest amount of remaining fuel sloshing about. I assume some of
this is a calibration issue with the GRT EIS but it works fine as is.
With 10 gallons left my approach is to have most of those in one tank
and to run off the other (and hard VFR with airports underneath). If
there's even a hiccup, tanks get switched and we are landing NOW. Not
my cup of tea and I haven't had a hiccup yet. I haven't run a tank dry
even for testing but did spend a year measuring things very carefully.
>
> OK, I've got to ask...
> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats reading zero,
but the totalizer shows that much left?
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
The floats hit the top of the tank around 24-26 gallons because if the dihedral.
If installed and calibrated correctly, they will read accurately down to very
close to empty.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 27, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
>
> On 6/27/2014 9:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
> Strangely enough, up until recently my fuel gauges always show slightly more
fuel than I actually have and the totalizer slightly less. Splitting the difference
gave me the right number. Running with the totalizer number gave me a
safety factor.
>
> The totalizer issue was due to placing the GRT unit in the Van's plans location.
It ran high when the boost pumps was on and who knows what else. Relocating
it to between the controller and spider makes it amazingly accurate now.
>
> My fuel gauges never show completely full tanks but they will show even the slightest
amount of remaining fuel sloshing about. I assume some of this is a
calibration issue with the GRT EIS but it works fine as is.
>
> With 10 gallons left my approach is to have most of those in one tank and to
run off the other (and hard VFR with airports underneath). If there's even a
hiccup, tanks get switched and we are landing NOW. Not my cup of tea and I haven't
had a hiccup yet. I haven't run a tank dry even for testing but did spend
a year measuring things very carefully.
>
>>
>> OK, I've got to ask...
>> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats reading zero,
but the totalizer shows that much left?
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I've been reading the threads on fuel and performance lately, and have
benefited from the discussions. One thing that struck me, is that we have
all come a LONG way, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all of you
as we went through this RV10 journey together. From the early day's where
Tim led the 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions regarding
maintenance and operations. I've come to know many of you 1st hand and
count you as friends. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them twins with
complex systems, logged lots of hours. But I have never had the
understanding on any of them that I have with the -10. I Thank you all for
contributing to that. We just finished our 6th annual trip from DVT to the
east coast. I love this airplane more each time we fly!
Give yourselves a hand of applause, You've come a long way!
Deems
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
>
> The floats hit the top of the tank around 24-26 gallons because if the
> dihedral. If installed and calibrated correctly, they will read accurately
> down to very close to empty.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 27, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> >
> >
> > On 6/27/2014 9:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
> > Strangely enough, up until recently my fuel gauges always show slightly
> more fuel than I actually have and the totalizer slightly less. Splitting
> the difference gave me the right number. Running with the totalizer number
> gave me a safety factor.
> >
> > The totalizer issue was due to placing the GRT unit in the Van's plans
> location. It ran high when the boost pumps was on and who knows what else.
> Relocating it to between the controller and spider makes it amazingly
> accurate now.
> >
> > My fuel gauges never show completely full tanks but they will show even
> the slightest amount of remaining fuel sloshing about. I assume some of
> this is a calibration issue with the GRT EIS but it works fine as is.
> >
> > With 10 gallons left my approach is to have most of those in one tank
> and to run off the other (and hard VFR with airports underneath). If
> there's even a hiccup, tanks get switched and we are landing NOW. Not my
> cup of tea and I haven't had a hiccup yet. I haven't run a tank dry even
> for testing but did spend a year measuring things very carefully.
> >
> johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
> >>
> >> OK, I've got to ask...
> >> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats
> reading zero, but the totalizer shows that much left?
> >> John
> >>
> >> --------
> >> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> No virus found in this message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I agree with Deems. I got started on the list with no pilot or mechanic lice
nse. Now I have both. I've learned a lot from this group and have enjoyed th
e journey.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 27, 2014, at 1:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I've been reading the threads on fuel and performance lately, and have ben
efited from the discussions. One thing that struck me, is that we have all c
ome a LONG way, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all of you as we w
ent through this RV10 journey together. =46rom the early day's where Tim led
the 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions regarding maintenance a
nd operations. I've come to know many of you 1st hand and count you as frien
ds. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them twins with complex systems, logged
lots of hours. But I have never had the understanding on any of them that I
have with the -10. I Thank you all for contributing to that. We just finish
ed our 6th annual trip from DVT to the east coast. I love this airplane more
each time we fly!
>
> Give yourselves a hand of applause, You've come a long way!
>
> Deems
>
>
>
>> On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Jesse Saint wr
ote:
>>
>> The floats hit the top of the tank around 24-26 gallons because if the di
hedral. If installed and calibrated correctly, they will read accurately dow
n to very close to empty.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> www.mavericklsa.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> O: 352-465-4545
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jun 27, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Bill Watson wrote
:
>> >
>> >
>> > On 6/27/2014 9:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>> > Strangely enough, up until recently my fuel gauges always show slightly
more fuel than I actually have and the totalizer slightly less. Splitting t
he difference gave me the right number. Running with the totalizer number g
ave me a safety factor.
>> >
>> > The totalizer issue was due to placing the GRT unit in the Van's plans l
ocation. It ran high when the boost pumps was on and who knows what else. R
elocating it to between the controller and spider makes it amazingly accurat
e now.
>> >
>> > My fuel gauges never show completely full tanks but they will show even
the slightest amount of remaining fuel sloshing about. I assume some of th
is is a calibration issue with the GRT EIS but it works fine as is.
>> >
>> > With 10 gallons left my approach is to have most of those in one tank a
nd to run off the other (and hard VFR with airports underneath). If there's
even a hiccup, tanks get switched and we are landing NOW. Not my cup of te
a and I haven't had a hiccup yet. I haven't run a tank dry even for testing b
ut did spend a year measuring things very carefully.
>> >
net>
>> >>
>> >> OK, I've got to ask...
>> >> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats rea
ding zero, but the totalizer shows that much left?
>> >> John
>> >>
>> >> --------
>> >> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Read this topic online here:
>> >>
>> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> -----
>> >> No virus found in this message.
>> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
It really has been a great learning experience for everyone,
me too. Some of the people I've met became like family.
The aircraft itself has been truly amazing and now I don't
know what I'd do without it. Coming from spam cans, there
really is no way I'd want to go back. I think many people
these days don't know what they're missing by NOT trying to
do things like build your own airplane. Do they really
think it's beyond them? Look at how many of us found out
that it really isn't.
It's also been really great that people like Deems and many
others have tried new things and shared their experiences
along the way. It's helped everyone to improve their
own plane.
It's really easy to see that those who've actually
completed their RV-10 can meet the spirit of the intent
of the Experimental Amateur Built category...recreation
and education....because it's that's what it's been
for me in a big way.
Tim
On 6/27/2014 12:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> I've been reading the threads on fuel and performance lately, and have
> benefited from the discussions. One thing that struck me, is that we
> have all come a LONG way, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all
> of you as we went through this RV10 journey together. From the early
> day's where Tim led the 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions
> regarding maintenance and operations. I've come to know many of you 1st
> hand and count you as friends. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them
> twins with complex systems, logged lots of hours. But I have never had
> the understanding on any of them that I have with the -10. I Thank you
> all for contributing to that. We just finished our 6th annual trip from
> DVT to the east coast. I love this airplane more each time we fly!
>
> Give yourselves a hand of applause, You've come a long way!
>
> Deems
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> |
Not sure on his how it would be, but on mine I adjusted the floats to the l
ower end. So when full they only read 23 or 24 gallons but are pretty accur
ate at the bottom.=0A-=0AGod Bless America=0A(please) -:)=0A=0A=0ABruce
=0A=0A=0AOn Friday, June 27, 2014 11:24 AM, Tim Olson wrot
=0A=0AIt really has been a great learning experience for everyone,=0Ame too
.- Some of the people I've met became like family.=0AThe aircraft itself
has been truly amazing and now I don't=0Aknow what I'd do without it.- Co
ming from spam cans, there=0Areally is no way I'd want to go back.- I thi
nk many people=0Athese days don't know what they're missing by NOT trying t
o=0Ado things like build your own airplane.- Do they really=0Athink it's
beyond them?- Look at how many of us found out=0Athat it really isn't.=0A
=0AIt's also been really great that people like Deems and many=0Aothers hav
e tried new things and shared their experiences=0Aalong the way.- It's he
lped everyone to improve their=0Aown plane.=0A=0AIt's really easy to see th
at those who've actually=0Acompleted their RV-10 can meet the spirit of the
intent=0Aof the Experimental Amateur Built category...recreation=0Aand edu
cation....because it's that's what it's been=0Afor me in a big way.=0ATim
=0A=0A=0AOn 6/27/2014 12:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote:=0A> I've been reading th
e threads on fuel and performance lately, and have=0A> benefited from the d
iscussions. One thing that struck me, is that we=0A> have all come a LONG w
ay, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all=0A> of you as we went th
rough this RV10 journey together. From the early=0A> day's where Tim led th
e 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions=0A> regarding maintenanc
e and operations. I've come to know many of you 1st=0A> hand and count you
as friends. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them=0A> twins with complex sy
stems, logged lots of hours. But I have never had=0A> the understanding on
any of them that I have with the -10. I Thank you=0A> all for contributing
to that. We just finished our 6th annual trip from=0A> DVT to the east coas
t. I love this airplane more each time we fly!=0A>=0A> Give yourselves a ha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
I want to say that you guys are my source of inspiration. Every time I
look at the project and get discouraged by the amount of work still to
go, I read some of your logs and stories and am inspired. I also find
Jesse dad=99s stories very encouraging having worked in overseas
mission.
Bill Greenley
Starting to put the top on the fuselage, fiberglass here I come
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extra fuel
I agree with Deems. I got started on the list with no pilot or mechanic
license. Now I have both. I've learned a lot from this group and have
enjoyed the journey.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 1:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
I've been reading the threads on fuel and performance lately, and have
benefited from the discussions. One thing that struck me, is that we
have all come a LONG way, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all
of you as we went through this RV10 journey together. From the early
day's where Tim led the 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions
regarding maintenance and operations. I've come to know many of you 1st
hand and count you as friends. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them
twins with complex systems, logged lots of hours. But I have never had
the understanding on any of them that I have with the -10. I Thank you
all for contributing to that. We just finished our 6th annual trip from
DVT to the east coast. I love this airplane more each time we fly!
Give yourselves a hand of applause, You've come a long way!
Deems
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
The floats hit the top of the tank around 24-26 gallons because if the
dihedral. If installed and calibrated correctly, they will read
accurately down to very close to empty.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 27, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Bill Watson
wrote:
>
>
> On 6/27/2014 9:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
> Strangely enough, up until recently my fuel gauges always show
slightly more fuel than I actually have and the totalizer slightly less.
Splitting the difference gave me the right number. Running with the
totalizer number gave me a safety factor.
>
> The totalizer issue was due to placing the GRT unit in the Van's plans
location. It ran high when the boost pumps was on and who knows what
else. Relocating it to between the controller and spider makes it
amazingly accurate now.
>
> My fuel gauges never show completely full tanks but they will show
even the slightest amount of remaining fuel sloshing about. I assume
some of this is a calibration issue with the GRT EIS but it works fine
as is.
>
> With 10 gallons left my approach is to have most of those in one tank
and to run off the other (and hard VFR with airports underneath). If
there's even a hiccup, tanks get switched and we are landing NOW. Not
my cup of tea and I haven't had a hiccup yet. I haven't run a tank dry
even for testing but did spend a year measuring things very carefully.
>
>>
>> OK, I've got to ask...
>> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats
reading zero, but the totalizer shows that much left?
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
//forums.matronics.com
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
When landing in a strong crosswind I try to draw fuel from the raised wing in the
side slip. If you run one tank dry there's a fifty-fifty chance you won't be
able to do that. Personally, I don't transition to a slip until well into the
flare, so it's not a big deal, but something to keep in mind. Especially if
a go around is needed.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425618#425618
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
Bill;
If you are encouraged by Jesse=99s dad=99s stories about
missionary.. you should watch the documentary/movie =9CBeyond the
gates of splendor=9D (if you haven=99t already) as a
missionary you will be inspired on the sacrifice made by the Saint
family and what has resulted in forgiveness and what is now an RV-10
=9Con the job training program=9D in Equador.
------------------
I want to say that you guys are my source of inspiration. Every time I
look at the project and get discouraged by the amount of work still to
go, I read some of your logs and stories and am inspired. I also find
Jesse dad=99s stories very encouraging having worked in overseas
mission.
Bill Greenley
From: Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extra fuel
I agree with Deems. I got started on the list with no pilot or mechanic
license. Now I have both. I've learned a lot from this group and have
enjoyed the journey.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 1:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
I've been reading the threads on fuel and performance lately, and have
benefited from the discussions. One thing that struck me, is that we
have all come a LONG way, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all
of you as we went through this RV10 journey together. From the early
day's where Tim led the 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions
regarding maintenance and operations. I've come to know many of you 1st
hand and count you as friends. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them
twins with complex systems, logged lots of hours. But I have never had
the understanding on any of them that I have with the -10. I Thank you
all for contributing to that. We just finished our 6th annual trip from
DVT to the east coast. I love this airplane more each time we fly!
Give yourselves a hand of applause, You've come a long way!
Deems
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
The floats hit the top of the tank around 24-26 gallons because if
the dihedral. If installed and calibrated correctly, they will read
accurately down to very close to empty.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 27, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Bill Watson
wrote:
>
>
> On 6/27/2014 9:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
> Strangely enough, up until recently my fuel gauges always show
slightly more fuel than I actually have and the totalizer slightly less.
Splitting the difference gave me the right number. Running with the
totalizer number gave me a safety factor.
>
> The totalizer issue was due to placing the GRT unit in the Van's
plans location. It ran high when the boost pumps was on and who knows
what else. Relocating it to between the controller and spider makes it
amazingly accurate now.
>
> My fuel gauges never show completely full tanks but they will show
even the slightest amount of remaining fuel sloshing about. I assume
some of this is a calibration issue with the GRT EIS but it works fine
as is.
>
> With 10 gallons left my approach is to have most of those in one
tank and to run off the other (and hard VFR with airports underneath).
If there's even a hiccup, tanks get switched and we are landing NOW.
Not my cup of tea and I haven't had a hiccup yet. I haven't run a tank
dry even for testing but did spend a year measuring things very
carefully.
>
>>
>> OK, I've got to ask...
>> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's
floats reading zero, but the totalizer shows that much left?
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
==========
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
//forums.matronics.com
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
fuel-
I have seen it and greatly appreciated the message. I ran a bush
hospital in Rwanda and lost my entire staff in the Genocide. I knew many
of the perpetrators, so forgiveness is a challenge a struggle with
daily.
Bill
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 3:02 PM
Subject: Jesse dad's stories being encouraging- was Re: RV10-List: Re:
Extra fuel-
Bill;
If you are encouraged by Jesse=99s dad=99s stories about
missionary.. you should watch the documentary/movie =9CBeyond the
gates of splendor=9D (if you haven=99t already) as a
missionary you will be inspired on the sacrifice made by the Saint
family and what has resulted in forgiveness and what is now an RV-10
=9Con the job training program=9D in Equador.
------------------
I want to say that you guys are my source of inspiration. Every time I
look at the project and get discouraged by the amount of work still to
go, I read some of your logs and stories and am inspired. I also find
Jesse dad=99s stories very encouraging having worked in overseas
mission.
Bill Greenley
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extra fuel
I agree with Deems. I got started on the list with no pilot or mechanic
license. Now I have both. I've learned a lot from this group and have
enjoyed the journey.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 1:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
I've been reading the threads on fuel and performance lately, and have
benefited from the discussions. One thing that struck me, is that we
have all come a LONG way, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all
of you as we went through this RV10 journey together. From the early
day's where Tim led the 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions
regarding maintenance and operations. I've come to know many of you 1st
hand and count you as friends. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them
twins with complex systems, logged lots of hours. But I have never had
the understanding on any of them that I have with the -10. I Thank you
all for contributing to that. We just finished our 6th annual trip from
DVT to the east coast. I love this airplane more each time we fly!
Give yourselves a hand of applause, You've come a long way!
Deems
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
The floats hit the top of the tank around 24-26 gallons because if the
dihedral. If installed and calibrated correctly, they will read
accurately down to very close to empty.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 27, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Bill Watson
wrote:
>
>
> On 6/27/2014 9:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
> Strangely enough, up until recently my fuel gauges always show
slightly more fuel than I actually have and the totalizer slightly less.
Splitting the difference gave me the right number. Running with the
totalizer number gave me a safety factor.
>
> The totalizer issue was due to placing the GRT unit in the Van's plans
location. It ran high when the boost pumps was on and who knows what
else. Relocating it to between the controller and spider makes it
amazingly accurate now.
>
> My fuel gauges never show completely full tanks but they will show
even the slightest amount of remaining fuel sloshing about. I assume
some of this is a calibration issue with the GRT EIS but it works fine
as is.
>
> With 10 gallons left my approach is to have most of those in one tank
and to run off the other (and hard VFR with airports underneath). If
there's even a hiccup, tanks get switched and we are landing NOW. Not
my cup of tea and I haven't had a hiccup yet. I haven't run a tank dry
even for testing but did spend a year measuring things very carefully.
>
>>
>> OK, I've got to ask...
>> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats
reading zero, but the totalizer shows that much left?
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
//forums.matronics.com
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | The building experience |
For those going through what I went through, my guidance came from Tim,
Deems for the building; Jesse for the panel and avionics guidance.. and Don
McDonald who took every call I made and sent me pictures and awesome
hardware to improve on some weaknesses I felt there was with the finish kit.
As Tim experienced, I have made some great friends who own RV-10's (and RV's
in general) and really had a life changing experience building the plane. I
felt, and did, make many mistakes but in the end I have flown well over 5000
miles in the plane thus far and it has flown beautifully.
I'm sorry (not really) but those who are missing out on the RV-10 experience
of building, meeting builders and maturing in a certain way, are really
missing out on one of my life's best times! When asked a few years back
about how excited I was to finally get the building done, I actually told
the RV group I loved the experience of building a custom kit with everything
I would want in a Cirrus and loved the building.. yes, its frustrating at
times and I dont think much about the fact that I built a plane, other than
I cant believe I actually did it and I would have had a harder time if it
were not for Tim, Deems and others on this forum.
In the end, anyone can build a plane, just dont miss the journey. If you
haven't met and spent time talking to other RV-10 builders, go to fly ins
and find local builders, my experience with Deems when in Arizona, a builder
2 hours away that took me for a flight and showed me his plane, and a
builder I met in Northern California when driving 10 hours to a fly in, who
would become my mentor and inspiration for the rest of the builder (thanks
Don!!).. all a journey.
Enjoy the journey!
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Extra fuel
It really has been a great learning experience for everyone,
me too. Some of the people I've met became like family.
The aircraft itself has been truly amazing and now I don't
know what I'd do without it. Coming from spam cans, there
really is no way I'd want to go back. I think many people
these days don't know what they're missing by NOT trying to
do things like build your own airplane. Do they really
think it's beyond them? Look at how many of us found out
that it really isn't.
It's also been really great that people like Deems and many
others have tried new things and shared their experiences
along the way. It's helped everyone to improve their
own plane.
It's really easy to see that those who've actually
completed their RV-10 can meet the spirit of the intent
of the Experimental Amateur Built category...recreation
and education....because it's that's what it's been
for me in a big way.
Tim
On 6/27/2014 12:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> I've been reading the threads on fuel and performance lately, and have
> benefited from the discussions. One thing that struck me, is that we
> have all come a LONG way, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all
> of you as we went through this RV10 journey together. From the early
> day's where Tim led the 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions
> regarding maintenance and operations. I've come to know many of you 1st
> hand and count you as friends. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them
> twins with complex systems, logged lots of hours. But I have never had
> the understanding on any of them that I have with the -10. I Thank you
> all for contributing to that. We just finished our 6th annual trip from
> DVT to the east coast. I love this airplane more each time we fly!
>
> Give yourselves a hand of applause, You've come a long way!
>
> Deems
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | oil cooler deflector |
Does anyone have any feedback on the affectivity of the oil cooler
deflectors. I=99m not convinced that I should install it, as Tim
Olsen says it actually raised his temperatures. Anyone else have
anything to report?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler deflector |
I don't think the theory is too bad on the device, but with all the variabil
ity between builders I don't know how actually effective it was for me. If i
t raised my temps it wasn't by much. I doubt you'll hurt anything by using i
t though.
Tim
> On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:03 PM, "Chris Hukill" wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any feedback on the affectivity of the oil cooler deflect
ors. I=99m not convinced that I should install it, as Tim Olsen says i
t actually raised his temperatures. Anyone else have anything to report?
> Chris Hukill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler deflector |
I have totally normal 190f-200f range with deflector. OAT temps are
90f-50f
From: Chris Hukill
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 3:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: oil cooler deflector
Does anyone have any feedback on the affectivity of the oil cooler
deflectors. I=99m not convinced that I should install it, as Tim
Olsen says it actually raised his temperatures. Anyone else have
anything to report?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Us guys from the big island to the Deep South also thank you all for sharing
your experiences and knowledge. I could not have built this aircraft with s
uch confidence without you all. Thank you ever so much.
I'm hoping to catch up with as many of you as possible next year at Oshkosh.
Warm regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
#40299
> On 28 Jun 2014, at 3:06, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I agree with Deems. I got started on the list with no pilot or mechanic li
cense. Now I have both. I've learned a lot from this group and have enjoyed t
he journey.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 27, 2014, at 1:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>>
>> I've been reading the threads on fuel and performance lately, and have be
nefited from the discussions. One thing that struck me, is that we have all c
ome a LONG way, I feel like I "grew-up" airplane-wise with all of you as we w
ent through this RV10 journey together. =46rom the early day's where Tim led
the 'revolt' to Matronics to the current discussions regarding maintenance a
nd operations. I've come to know many of you 1st hand and count you as frien
ds. I've owned 5 planes, a couple of them twins with complex systems, logged
lots of hours. But I have never had the understanding on any of them that I
have with the -10. I Thank you all for contributing to that. We just finish
ed our 6th annual trip from DVT to the east coast. I love this airplane more
each time we fly!
>>
>> Give yourselves a hand of applause, You've come a long way!
>>
>> Deems
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Jesse Saint w
rote:
>>>
>>> The floats hit the top of the tank around 24-26 gallons because if the d
ihedral. If installed and calibrated correctly, they will read accurately do
wn to very close to empty.
>>>
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> I-TEC, Inc.
>>> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>>> www.itecusa.org
>>> www.mavericklsa.com
>>> C: 352-427-0285
>>> O: 352-465-4545
>>> F: 815-377-3694
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jun 27, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Bill Watson wrot
e:
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > On 6/27/2014 9:40 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>>> > Strangely enough, up until recently my fuel gauges always show slightl
y more fuel than I actually have and the totalizer slightly less. Splitting
the difference gave me the right number. Running with the totalizer number
gave me a safety factor.
>>> >
>>> > The totalizer issue was due to placing the GRT unit in the Van's plans
location. It ran high when the boost pumps was on and who knows what else.
Relocating it to between the controller and spider makes it amazingly accu
rate now.
>>> >
>>> > My fuel gauges never show completely full tanks but they will show eve
n the slightest amount of remaining fuel sloshing about. I assume some of t
his is a calibration issue with the GRT EIS but it works fine as is.
>>> >
>>> > With 10 gallons left my approach is to have most of those in one tank a
nd to run off the other (and hard VFR with airports underneath). If there's
even a hiccup, tanks get switched and we are landing NOW. Not my cup of te
a and I haven't had a hiccup yet. I haven't run a tank dry even for testing b
ut did spend a year measuring things very carefully.
>>> >
.net>
>>> >>
>>> >> OK, I've got to ask...
>>> >> When you have 10.2 gallons left in the tanks, are the Van's floats re
ading zero, but the totalizer shows that much left?
>>> >> John
>>> >>
>>> >> --------
>>> >> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> Read this topic online here:
>>> >>
>>> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425579#425579
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> -----
>>> >> No virus found in this message.
>>> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> MS -
>>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> e -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler deflector |
If you also put a damper vent to reduce airflow, you need to ensure the vent
is perpendicular to the deflector. Otherwise when the vent is partially c
losed, you'll only be sending air through half the oil cooler.
I don't have any comparison temps, but I'm not having problems with oil temp
s being high with the deflector
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 6:30 PM, "Pascal" wrote:
I have totally normal 190f-200f range with deflector. OAT temps are 90f-50f
From: Chris Hukill
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 3:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: oil cooler deflector
Does anyone have any feedback on the affectivity of the oil cooler deflector
s. I=99m not convinced that I should install it, as Tim Olsen says it a
ctually raised his temperatures. Anyone else have anything to report?
Chris Hukill
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler deflector |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Chris, just a FYI wrt oil coolers. I have bought and installed an Air
Flow 2007X, the next larger sized cooler offered. I have no intentions of
installing the baffle or deflector with the larger capacity cooler. I do
however have Bob Newmans butterfly valve and electronic controller if its
required to regulate oil temp.
Having said that I`m not flying yet so this info is worth .02 or less ;-)
Regards
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> Does anyone have any feedback on the affectivity of the oil cooler
> deflectors. I=99m not convinced that I should install it, as Tim Ol
sen says
> it actually raised his temperatures. Anyone else have anything to report?
> Chris Hukill
>
> *
>
===========
onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RVbits.com warning |
About a month ago I ordered a pair of the engine mount covers from
rvbits.com (based in South Africa). After a couple of weeks I asked the
seller (Chris Adrian) for shipping status. First, he claimed he never
got the order, although Paypal said he'd been paid. So I filed a
dispute with Paypal. Mr Adrian's tune immediately changed -- he claimed
he'd already shipped the items. He didn't respond to my request for
shiping method and tracking number, and the items never arrived. I
elevated the dispute to "claim" status with Paypal, and eventually got
notice from Paypal that my money has been returned.
Based on my experience, I'd recommend steering clear of rvbits.com.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 500 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RVbits.com warning |
Sorry to hear about your problem.
I made my own .... vacuum bagged over the form in the middle. It's a 3"
foam ball cut in half with a radius made from lightweight spackle from
the aircraft aisle in Home depot.
It's too bad we don't have something like Angies List for aviation .....
I bought a canopy for my Pitts from Dave Garmann at Planecanopies.com.
I worked hard trimming it to make it fit and when I pulled the plastic
off It was wrinkled all down the right side ....
He won't return my calls and won't make good of the POS he sent me.
On 6/29/2014 8:19 AM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> About a month ago I ordered a pair of the engine mount covers from
> rvbits.com (based in South Africa). After a couple of weeks I asked
> the seller (Chris Adrian) for shipping status. First, he claimed he
> never got the order, although Paypal said he'd been paid. So I filed
> a dispute with Paypal. Mr Adrian's tune immediately changed -- he
> claimed he'd already shipped the items. He didn't respond to my
> request for shiping method and tracking number, and the items never
> arrived. I elevated the dispute to "claim" status with Paypal, and
> eventually got notice from Paypal that my money has been returned.
>
> Based on my experience, I'd recommend steering clear of rvbits.com.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RVbits.com warning |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Tim,
Get the mount covers from Geoff Combs. More money, but they look beautiful, which
is probably the reason to get the carbon ones in the first place ;)
http://www.aerosportproducts.com/rv10mount.htm
Linn, nice work! What do you use for vacuum? I have a tiny medical vacuum pump,
and it works great for small stuff like this, but not enough on a bigger sheet.
--------
Lenny
N311LZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425715#425715
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RVbits.com warning |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Cleaveland Tools sells many of the rvbits.com products and stocked them. Then
you don't have to worry about timing an international shipment.
I also agree with Lenny, just buy for Aerosport Products. It's hard to beat Geoff
for support. It would be nice if carbon fiber was less expensive, but it
is, what it is.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 29, 2014, at 8:19 AM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> About a month ago I ordered a pair of the engine mount covers from rvbits.com
(based in South Africa). After a couple of weeks I asked the seller (Chris Adrian)
for shipping status. First, he claimed he never got the order, although
Paypal said he'd been paid. So I filed a dispute with Paypal. Mr Adrian's
tune immediately changed -- he claimed he'd already shipped the items. He didn't
respond to my request for shiping method and tracking number, and the items
never arrived. I elevated the dispute to "claim" status with Paypal, and eventually
got notice from Paypal that my money has been returned.
>
> Based on my experience, I'd recommend steering clear of rvbits.com.
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> A&P
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 500 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RVbits.com warning |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
Tim,
Sorry you had a bad experience with them. I have ordered two sets in the
past without any issues. They took a while to arrive, but they were coming
from africa.
john
On Sun, Jun 29, 2014 at 8:19 AM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> About a month ago I ordered a pair of the engine mount covers from
> rvbits.com (based in South Africa). After a couple of weeks I asked the
> seller (Chris Adrian) for shipping status. First, he claimed he never got
> the order, although Paypal said he'd been paid. So I filed a dispute with
> Paypal. Mr Adrian's tune immediately changed -- he claimed he'd already
> shipped the items. He didn't respond to my request for shiping method and
> tracking number, and the items never arrived. I elevated the dispute to
> "claim" status with Paypal, and eventually got notice from Paypal that my
> money has been returned.
>
> Based on my experience, I'd recommend steering clear of rvbits.com.
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> A&P
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 500 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RVbits.com warning |
Mail to and from countries in Africa can be a unique experience. I
remember when I was working in Sierra Leone, I received a letter from
my grandmother 8 months after she had passed away. It felt very strange.
Still they should not have said they shipped it if they did not.
Bill
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Trollinger
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2014 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RVbits.com warning
Tim,
Sorry you had a bad experience with them. I have ordered two sets in
the past without any issues. They took a while to arrive, but they were
coming from africa.
john
On Sun, Jun 29, 2014 at 8:19 AM, Tim Lewis
wrote:
About a month ago I ordered a pair of the engine mount covers from
rvbits.com (based in South Africa). After a couple of weeks I asked the
seller (Chris Adrian) for shipping status. First, he claimed he never
got the order, although Paypal said he'd been paid. So I filed a
dispute with Paypal. Mr Adrian's tune immediately changed -- he claimed
he'd already shipped the items. He didn't respond to my request for
shiping method and tracking number, and the items never arrived. I
elevated the dispute to "claim" status with Paypal, and eventually got
notice from Paypal that my money has been returned.
Based on my experience, I'd recommend steering clear of rvbits.com.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 500 hrs
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RVbits.com warning |
On 6/29/2014 10:19 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Get the mount covers from Geoff Combs. More money, but they look beautiful, which
is probably the reason to get the carbon ones in the first place ;)
> http://www.aerosportproducts.com/rv10mount.htm
>
> Linn, nice work! What do you use for vacuum?
I used the larger Harbor Freight vacuum pump. It was on sale.
When I made my overhead plenum I made the form out of blue foam and
bagged the whole cabin top!
Linn
> I have a tiny medical vacuum pump, and it works great for small stuff like
this, but not enough on a bigger sheet.
>
> --------
> Lenny
> N311LZ
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425715#425715
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | oil cooler deflector |
Chris
I have the larger oil cooler without the deflector in it. I also have a
valve to control oil temperatures and everything works very good. I
would recommend
The oil door and the deflector would be your call. 4 plus years with
this setup and still works great. In the winter months I can set oil
temps to pretty much
Where I want to run. In the summer it is usually wide open.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
Aerosport
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal, Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 6:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: oil cooler deflector
Does anyone have any feedback on the affectivity of the oil cooler
deflectors. I=99m not convinced that I should install it, as Tim
Olsen says it actually raised his temperatures. Anyone else have
anything to report?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RVbits.com warning |
| From: | "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I ordered the covers from RvBits several months ago. They did take several weeks,
but arrives without issue. It is a long shipping window... be slightly patient.
Cheers,
Frank
--------
Frank Dombroski
RV-10 2.0 N46VT soon to be flying
KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425766#425766
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
Ive got the Vans supplied IO-540 with Slick Retard Mag on left & Direct drive Mag
right. I'm putting in a Lightspeed Plasma3 to fire the top plugs. Because the
engine can only be started with the retard Mag or the Lightspeed, would it
be best to have an each way bet and retain the Left Retard Mag with Booster. Or
retain the Direct Drive and I presume more simple less complex Right Mag. Wondering
what choice others have made, any advise appreciated. Cheers from Western
Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425767#425767
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler deflector |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Geoff,
When you say "larger" do you mean the 2006X or 2007X? Both have more
capacity than the Vans cooler and I think are both a bit larger.
On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 6:08 AM, Geoff Combs
wrote:
> Chris
>
> I have the larger oil cooler without the deflector in it. I also have a
> valve to control oil temperatures and everything works very good. I would
> recommend
>
> The oil door and the deflector would be your call. 4 plus years with this
> setup and still works great. In the winter months I can set oil temps to
> pretty much
>
> Where I want to run. In the summer it is usually wide open.
>
>
> Geoff
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> Aerosport
>
> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
>
> Canal, Winchester, Ohio 43110
>
> 614-834-5227
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris Hukill
>
> *Sent:* Friday, June 27, 2014 6:03 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: oil cooler deflector
>
>
> Does anyone have any feedback on the affectivity of the oil cooler
> deflectors. I'm not convinced that I should install it, as Tim Olsen says
> it actually raised his temperatures. Anyone else have anything to report?
>
> Chris Hukill
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List *
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 social at Oshkosh |
A couple of years I went to an RV-10 social at Oshkosh. Does anyone know if
one is planned for this year?
Bill Greenley
RV-10 at the fiberglass stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 social at Oshkosh |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
There is talk about Sunday evening, but nothing will be finalized until it g
ets a little closer.
I'm sure Ed will make an announcement here as soon as a final decision is ma
de.
For those that haven't attended for awhile, Ed Krantz has gratuitously taken
over the role of dinner host. Bob and Gary (or should I say Susan and Bre
nda) have done a fantastic job over the years and deserve to sit back and re
lax.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 30, 2014, at 6:27 PM, "William Greenley" wrot
e:
>
> A couple of years I went to an RV-10 social at Oshkosh. Does anyone know i
f one is planned for this year?
> Bill Greenley
> RV-10 at the fiberglass stage
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 social at Oshkosh |
I will be arriving there Sunday morning and am willing to help.
Bill Greenley
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2014 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 social at Oshkosh
There is talk about Sunday evening, but nothing will be finalized until
it gets a little closer.
I'm sure Ed will make an announcement here as soon as a final decision
is made.
For those that haven't attended for awhile, Ed Krantz has gratuitously
taken over the role of dinner host. Bob and Gary (or should I say
Susan and Brenda) have done a fantastic job over the years and deserve
to sit back and relax.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 30, 2014, at 6:27 PM, "William Greenley"
wrote:
A couple of years I went to an RV-10 social at Oshkosh. Does anyone know
if one is planned for this year?
Bill Greenley
RV-10 at the fiberglass stage
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 social at Oshkosh |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Yup,
I'm thinking Sunday evening is probably going to work best, but I'll wait
until Bob and the advance team are on site before we set anything in stone.
We'll probably be doing burgers and brats, and whatever else people want to
bring. There is always enough for everyone.
I'll have more details about a week before OSH.
26 days to go!!!
On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 6:39 PM, William Greenley
wrote:
> I will be arriving there Sunday morning and am willing to help.
>
> Bill Greenley
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Leffler
> *Sent:* Monday, June 30, 2014 7:27 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: RV-10 social at Oshkosh
>
>
> There is talk about Sunday evening, but nothing will be finalized until it
> gets a little closer.
>
>
> I'm sure Ed will make an announcement here as soon as a final decision is
> made.
>
>
> For those that haven't attended for awhile, Ed Krantz has gratuitously
> taken over the role of dinner host. Bob and Gary (or should I say Susan
> and Brenda) have done a fantastic job over the years and deserve to sit
> back and relax.
>
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On Jun 30, 2014, at 6:27 PM, "William Greenley"
> wrote:
>
> A couple of years I went to an RV-10 social at Oshkosh. Does anyone know
> if one is planned for this year?
>
> Bill Greenley
>
> RV-10 at the fiberglass stage
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List *
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RVbits.com warning |
On 7/1/2014 9:00 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> I did a DIY per some other builders using a cat food dish Mauledriver
> Kitlog
> <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=4014&log=89653&row=1>
> . Simple to do. Carbon Fiber would look fine.
>
> I recently ordered a set of main gear fairings from RVbits. Took
> awhile for them to arrive but they finally did. Nicely formed and
> finished.
>
>
> On 6/29/2014 8:19 AM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>>
>> About a month ago I ordered a pair of the engine mount covers from
>> rvbits.com (based in South Africa). After a couple of weeks I asked
>> the seller (Chris Adrian) for shipping status. First, he claimed he
>> never got the order, although Paypal said he'd been paid. So I filed
>> a dispute with Paypal. Mr Adrian's tune immediately changed -- he
>> claimed he'd already shipped the items. He didn't respond to my
>> request for shiping method and tracking number, and the items never
>> arrived. I elevated the dispute to "claim" status with Paypal, and
>> eventually got notice from Paypal that my money has been returned.
>>
>> Based on my experience, I'd recommend steering clear of rvbits.com.
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RVbits.com warning |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I used high temp silicone and never see it.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425921#425921
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rapco Brakes @ Aircraft Spuce |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Could somebody please point out which Rapco Brake lining Kit I need for the RV-10?
I know the RA66-112 are the brake linings
Is this the correct one listed at Aircraft spruce?
Rapco Brake Lining Kit RA066-11200-4K 06-01740 $29.50
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425936#425936
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rapco Brakes @ Aircraft Spuce |
That looks right to me. Man the prices have come down a lot
now that Rapco is making them.
Tim
On 7/2/2014 1:31 PM, Mike Whisky wrote:
>
> Could somebody please point out which Rapco Brake lining Kit I need for the RV-10?
> I know the RA66-112 are the brake linings
>
> Is this the correct one listed at Aircraft spruce?
> Rapco Brake Lining Kit RA066-11200-4K 06-01740 $29.50
>
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (flying)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425936#425936
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rapco Brakes @ Aircraft Spuce |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Just for future reference, those are the correct pad numbers for older -10's.
Current kits are shipping with non-Cleveland wheels.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425945#425945
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive and
about twice the stopping power.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Do they work with Cleveland wheels, or do you have to buy complete Matco
wheels and caliper set?
On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 6:33 AM, DLM wrote:
> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive
> and about twice the stopping power.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
You have to buy the complete set. It makes a big difference over the Clevela
nd setup. I recommend it.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 3, 2014, at 6:52 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Do they work with Cleveland wheels, or do you have to buy complete Matco w
heels and caliper set?
>
>
>> On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 6:33 AM, DLM wrote:
>> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive an
d about twice the stopping power.
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
You have to buy the complete set.
But they are very nicely made. I'm not flying yet, but I'm happy with the
way they went together, and the quality of the parts.
On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 8:52 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Do they work with Cleveland wheels, or do you have to buy complete Matco
> wheels and caliper set?
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 6:33 AM, DLM wrote:
>
>> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive
>> and about twice the stopping power.
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I just installed a set of these. It's a good day job. Twice the brakes. Nice
system.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 3, 2014, at 9:33 AM, "DLM" wrote:
>
> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive and
about twice the stopping power.
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I think Sean
Strasburg was the first. They are far superior to
The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love them.
Geoff
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: brakes
You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive and
about twice the stopping power.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Is the feeling that the Cleveland brakes are inadequate? Anyone have
problems flat spotting tires with the upgraded Matco brakes? It would seem
the Matco brake pads are more expensive than Rapco, and ties you to a
single source for pads.
It does appear that the cost is under $900, where I believe the Cleveland
set was over $2000. Of course then there is the effort to sell the unused
Cleveland set.
On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Geoff Combs
wrote:
> I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I think Sean
> Strasburg was the first. They are far superior to
>
> The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love them.
>
>
> Geoff
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DLM
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: brakes
>
>
> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive and
> about twice the stopping power.
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List *
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I've had Clevelands on all my airplanes .... and never had any problem
in over 40 years. I can't see where twice the stopping power is a
benefit! Where do y'all need to jump on the brakes like that???
Linn
On 7/3/2014 11:57 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Is the feeling that the Cleveland brakes are inadequate? Anyone have
> problems flat spotting tires with the upgraded Matco brakes? It would
> seem the Matco brake pads are more expensive than Rapco, and ties you
> to a single source for pads.
>
> It does appear that the cost is under $900, where I believe the
> Cleveland set was over $2000. Of course then there is the effort to
> sell the unused Cleveland set.
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Geoff Combs
> >
> wrote:
>
> I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I think
> Sean Strasburg was the first. They are far superior to
>
> The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love them.
>
> Geoff
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *DLM
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: brakes
>
> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price
> competitive and about twice the stopping power.
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List****
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **http://forums.matronics.com****
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **http://www.matronics.com/contribution****
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I guess I'd tend to agree, myself, but there are two sides to
the discussion I guess.
I've talked to Sean about this, and he's seen some brake fade
before, and with the added stopping power you wouldn't get much
for brake fade. From what he says, it's not really for
stopping on a landing, but stopping from an aborted takeoff
that it would matter most. I can see the point, and see
the benefit.
That said, I've never experienced the need for more brake than
I have, and in fact I've had a few times where I did some
hard braking to make a turnoff and screeched a flat spot onto
a tire, so I believe that 99.5% of the time the stock brakes
will be plenty, and most people won't ever have the chance
to use the additional stopping power, hopefully.
Then from a purchase standpoint, I'd guess that if you
already own one type of wheel/brake system, the economics
of changing really aren't worthwhile for anyone, unless you
really just have to have those powerful brakes. It's
not like I'm going to get big bucks for my old brakes.
Then from a standpoint of replacement parts, it is somewhat
nice that if you use a standard system, you can buy standard
parts at many places. I just experienced a flat in one of
my main tubes while on vacation, which drove home the
idea that it's kind of nice to be able to get parts from
a nearby source in a pinch. If you have Cleveland, you
have a good chance of being able to find some parts. With
any others, you may find yourself getting some shipped
overnight and taking a couple days. But then again, you
may have less need for the parts, right? I'm also not a
huge fan of single-source type products in that from EFIS's
to Wheels, many of the things we buy for our plane rely
on a very tiny number of people to supply the services.
If that company got hit by a meteor, or had any number of
other things go wrong, you may be without parts. This isn't
to scare you from Matco, because we use their parts for many
other things too. But, at least now that there are 2 lining
makers for my brakes, I've got options. Then again, if
you bought a spare 2 or 3 sets of pads for Matco's brakes,
you may never end up needing to call them again, because
they'd wear so much slower.
Either way, it's nice that we have multiple options
for our wheels and brakes. It keeps us well supplied
for the long run. For those who love the new brakes,
great, and it's nice to remind new builders that they
have options. For those who would rather have the old
brakes, or don't want to pony up, I don't see this as
any big deal either. Myself, I am just happy to see that
lining prices are now down under $8 each, so I can
keep replacing them as needed and enjoy many more years
of service. If I were building a new RV-10 today, I'd
look at the cost difference and then decide which way to
go. There really isn't a "bad" choice, but there may be
a good and better. If the price is within a couple
or few hundred bucks, I'd just go for the best. If
not, it's time to start weighing the options. The most
important thing is to pick one and move on, because
agonizing over all the details is just going to cost you
weeks/months/years of time that you could be FLYING instead
of building. :)
Tim
On 7/3/2014 12:53 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> I've had Clevelands on all my airplanes .... and never had any problem
> in over 40 years. I can't see where twice the stopping power is a
> benefit! Where do y'all need to jump on the brakes like that???
> Linn
>
> On 7/3/2014 11:57 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> Is the feeling that the Cleveland brakes are inadequate? Anyone have
>> problems flat spotting tires with the upgraded Matco brakes? It would
>> seem the Matco brake pads are more expensive than Rapco, and ties you
>> to a single source for pads.
>>
>> It does appear that the cost is under $900, where I believe the
>> Cleveland set was over $2000. Of course then there is the effort to
>> sell the unused Cleveland set.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Geoff Combs
>> >
>> wrote:
>>
>> I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I think
>> Sean Strasburg was the first. They are far superior to
>>
>> The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love them.
>>
>> Geoff
>>
>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *DLM
>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: brakes
>>
>> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price
>> competitive and about twice the stopping power.
>>
>> * *
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com> |
I had to abort a takeoff in my RV10 and the Cleveland brakes faded to nothin
g. I used 5000' of runway. The Rv10 brakes work ok, otherwise.....
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 3, 2014, at 12:53 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> I've had Clevelands on all my airplanes .... and never had any problem in o
ver 40 years. I can't see where twice the stopping power is a benefit! Whe
re do y'all need to jump on the brakes like that???
> Linn
>
> On 7/3/2014 11:57 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> Is the feeling that the Cleveland brakes are inadequate? Anyone have prob
lems flat spotting tires with the upgraded Matco brakes? It would seem the M
atco brake pads are more expensive than Rapco, and ties you to a single sour
ce for pads.
>>
>> It does appear that the cost is under $900, where I believe the Cleveland
set was over $2000. Of course then there is the effort to sell the unused C
leveland set.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Geoff Combs wrote:
>>> I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I think Sean S
trasburg was the first. They are far superior to
>>>
>>> The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love them.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Geoff
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve
r(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: brakes
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive a
nd about twice the stopping power.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 07/03/14
>>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
Ask Sean Strasburg what might have happened to him if he did not have the
Matco Brakes. The brakes are not a got to have item for
Everyone. There is nothing wrong with the stock brakes other than they could
fade really bad when you really might need them. The
Matco pads are double the size of the stock pads so they will last way
longer. They feel almost Identical to the stock brakes.
I agree that 90% of the time the stock brakes are fine. When driving your
car in normal conditions you are not using much brake
Power. Would you drive your car with the possibility of severe fade? Some
will some won't. That's why we are building our airplanes
And not buying certified we have options. As Tim said weigh your options
There is no correct answer here.
Geoff Combs
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2014 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: brakes
I've had Clevelands on all my airplanes .... and never had any problem in
over 40 years. I can't see where twice the stopping power is a benefit!
Where do y'all need to jump on the brakes like that???
Linn
On 7/3/2014 11:57 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
Is the feeling that the Cleveland brakes are inadequate? Anyone have
problems flat spotting tires with the upgraded Matco brakes? It would seem
the Matco brake pads are more expensive than Rapco, and ties you to a single
source for pads.
It does appear that the cost is under $900, where I believe the Cleveland
set was over $2000. Of course then there is the effort to sell the unused
Cleveland set.
On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Geoff Combs > wrote:
I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I think Sean
Strasburg was the first. They are far superior to
The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love them.
Geoff
From: <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: brakes
You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price competitive and
about twice the stopping power.
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank"> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank"> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
07/03/14
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Maybe you can just caulk it up to I am just not as good of a pilot......but
I have and do see the brake fade problem once or twice a year. Normally on
fast landing and trying to make a turn off. Most of my landings are at
airports 4500 MSL or higher and thus the ground speeds are faster. Spent
two weeks last summer flying in the low lands of Louisiana and Florida and
was impressed with my relatively short landings, etc.....then I can back
home and was back to normal.
40 knots and hard braking ........you will see brake fade......
I am to cheap to replace my wheels and brakes, but sooner or later I will,
maybe.
If I was building again, I would look for other options.
I love my RV-10......
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2014 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: brakes
I guess I'd tend to agree, myself, but there are two sides to the discussion
I guess.
I've talked to Sean about this, and he's seen some brake fade before, and
with the added stopping power you wouldn't get much for brake fade. From
what he says, it's not really for stopping on a landing, but stopping from
an aborted takeoff that it would matter most. I can see the point, and see
the benefit.
That said, I've never experienced the need for more brake than I have, and
in fact I've had a few times where I did some hard braking to make a turnoff
and screeched a flat spot onto a tire, so I believe that 99.5% of the time
the stock brakes will be plenty, and most people won't ever have the chance
to use the additional stopping power, hopefully.
Then from a purchase standpoint, I'd guess that if you already own one type
of wheel/brake system, the economics of changing really aren't worthwhile
for anyone, unless you really just have to have those powerful brakes. It's
not like I'm going to get big bucks for my old brakes.
Then from a standpoint of replacement parts, it is somewhat nice that if you
use a standard system, you can buy standard parts at many places. I just
experienced a flat in one of my main tubes while on vacation, which drove
home the idea that it's kind of nice to be able to get parts from a nearby
source in a pinch. If you have Cleveland, you have a good chance of being
able to find some parts. With any others, you may find yourself getting some
shipped overnight and taking a couple days. But then again, you may have
less need for the parts, right? I'm also not a huge fan of single-source
type products in that from EFIS's to Wheels, many of the things we buy for
our plane rely on a very tiny number of people to supply the services.
If that company got hit by a meteor, or had any number of other things go
wrong, you may be without parts. This isn't to scare you from Matco,
because we use their parts for many other things too. But, at least now
that there are 2 lining makers for my brakes, I've got options. Then again,
if you bought a spare 2 or 3 sets of pads for Matco's brakes, you may never
end up needing to call them again, because they'd wear so much slower.
Either way, it's nice that we have multiple options for our wheels and
brakes. It keeps us well supplied for the long run. For those who love the
new brakes, great, and it's nice to remind new builders that they have
options. For those who would rather have the old brakes, or don't want to
pony up, I don't see this as any big deal either. Myself, I am just happy
to see that lining prices are now down under $8 each, so I can keep
replacing them as needed and enjoy many more years of service. If I were
building a new RV-10 today, I'd look at the cost difference and then decide
which way to go. There really isn't a "bad" choice, but there may be a good
and better. If the price is within a couple or few hundred bucks, I'd just
go for the best. If not, it's time to start weighing the options. The most
important thing is to pick one and move on, because agonizing over all the
details is just going to cost you weeks/months/years of time that you could
be FLYING instead of building. :)
Tim
On 7/3/2014 12:53 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> I've had Clevelands on all my airplanes .... and never had any problem
> in over 40 years. I can't see where twice the stopping power is a
> benefit! Where do y'all need to jump on the brakes like that???
> Linn
>
> On 7/3/2014 11:57 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> Is the feeling that the Cleveland brakes are inadequate? Anyone have
>> problems flat spotting tires with the upgraded Matco brakes? It would
>> seem the Matco brake pads are more expensive than Rapco, and ties you
>> to a single source for pads.
>>
>> It does appear that the cost is under $900, where I believe the
>> Cleveland set was over $2000. Of course then there is the effort to
>> sell the unused Cleveland set.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Geoff Combs
>> > >
>> wrote:
>>
>> I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I think
>> Sean Strasburg was the first. They are far superior to
>>
>> The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love them.
>>
>> Geoff
>>
>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *DLM
>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: brakes
>>
>> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price
>> competitive and about twice the stopping power.
>>
>> * *
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
OK, I've never had to abort a takeoff that late so I'll put that in the
+ side. If I had known, maybe I would have sent the Clevelands back,
saved some money and gone with the Matco. Lots of water under the
bridge so I'll stick with what I've got. Tim pointed out that the
cost/benefit of swapping out the Clevelands is pretty lousy and cost
drives most of us ..... me included. I learned something .... way too
late in the scheme of things ....
Linn .... riveting aft upper fuselage!!!!!! :-) :-) :-)
On 7/3/2014 3:37 PM, Geoff Combs wrote:
>
> Ask Sean Strasburg what might have happened to him if he did not have
> the Matco Brakes. The brakes are not a got to have item for
>
> Everyone. There is nothing wrong with the stock brakes other than they
> could fade really bad when you really might need them. The
>
> Matco pads are double the size of the stock pads so they will last way
> longer. They feel almost Identical to the stock brakes.
>
> I agree that 90% of the time the stock brakes are fine. When driving
> your car in normal conditions you are not using much brake
>
> Power. Would you drive your car with the possibility of severe fade?
> Some will some won't. That's why we are building our airplanes
>
> And not buying certified we have options. As Tim said weigh your
> options There is no correct answer here.
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Linn Walters
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 03, 2014 1:54 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: brakes
>
> I've had Clevelands on all my airplanes .... and never had any problem
> in over 40 years. I can't see where twice the stopping power is a
> benefit! Where do y'all need to jump on the brakes like that???
> Linn
>
> On 7/3/2014 11:57 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Is the feeling that the Cleveland brakes are inadequate? Anyone
> have problems flat spotting tires with the upgraded Matco brakes?
> It would seem the Matco brake pads are more expensive than Rapco,
> and ties you to a single source for pads.
>
> It does appear that the cost is under $900, where I believe the
> Cleveland set was over $2000. Of course then there is the effort
> to sell the unused Cleveland set.
>
> On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Geoff Combs
> > wrote:
>
> I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I
> think Sean Strasburg was the first. They are far superior to
>
> The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love
> them.
>
> Geoff
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *DLM
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: brakes
>
> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price
> competitive and about twice the stopping power.
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *get="_blank">**http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List***
>
> *tp://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *_blank">**http://www.matronics.com/contribution***
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> 07/03/14
>
> * **http://www.matro=====================* **http://forums.matronics.com**http://www.matronics.co====* *
> ** * <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>*
> *<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Ah, I see an issue here. I doubt that you're 'not as good a pilot'
..... I've always said an old, bol pilot is one that survives all
his/her mistakes! I think it all boils down to how many angels you have
sitting on your shoulders. I have a bunch!!!
Anyway, I'm a FL resident and have almost all my 2500+ hours landing
near sea level. I've made a coast-coast trip ..... and was amazed at
the length of runways out west!!! I learned (or relearned) two things
on that trip .... density altitude matters ..... and there's a reason
the charts aren't green out west!!!!
I don't use my brakes much, preferring to use drag for braking ..... and
most of the runways I use around here are 4000' long ..... but I still
only use 2/3 of that.
Linn
On 7/3/2014 3:49 PM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> Maybe you can just caulk it up to I am just not as good of a pilot......but
> I have and do see the brake fade problem once or twice a year. Normally on
> fast landing and trying to make a turn off. Most of my landings are at
> airports 4500 MSL or higher and thus the ground speeds are faster. Spent
> two weeks last summer flying in the low lands of Louisiana and Florida and
> was impressed with my relatively short landings, etc.....then I can back
> home and was back to normal.
>
> 40 knots and hard braking ........you will see brake fade......
>
> I am to cheap to replace my wheels and brakes, but sooner or later I will,
> maybe.
>
> If I was building again, I would look for other options.
>
> I love my RV-10......
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2014 12:26 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: brakes
>
>
> I guess I'd tend to agree, myself, but there are two sides to the discussion
> I guess.
>
> I've talked to Sean about this, and he's seen some brake fade before, and
> with the added stopping power you wouldn't get much for brake fade. From
> what he says, it's not really for stopping on a landing, but stopping from
> an aborted takeoff that it would matter most. I can see the point, and see
> the benefit.
>
> That said, I've never experienced the need for more brake than I have, and
> in fact I've had a few times where I did some hard braking to make a turnoff
> and screeched a flat spot onto a tire, so I believe that 99.5% of the time
> the stock brakes will be plenty, and most people won't ever have the chance
> to use the additional stopping power, hopefully.
>
> Then from a purchase standpoint, I'd guess that if you already own one type
> of wheel/brake system, the economics of changing really aren't worthwhile
> for anyone, unless you really just have to have those powerful brakes. It's
> not like I'm going to get big bucks for my old brakes.
>
> Then from a standpoint of replacement parts, it is somewhat nice that if you
> use a standard system, you can buy standard parts at many places. I just
> experienced a flat in one of my main tubes while on vacation, which drove
> home the idea that it's kind of nice to be able to get parts from a nearby
> source in a pinch. If you have Cleveland, you have a good chance of being
> able to find some parts. With any others, you may find yourself getting some
> shipped overnight and taking a couple days. But then again, you may have
> less need for the parts, right? I'm also not a huge fan of single-source
> type products in that from EFIS's to Wheels, many of the things we buy for
> our plane rely on a very tiny number of people to supply the services.
> If that company got hit by a meteor, or had any number of other things go
> wrong, you may be without parts. This isn't to scare you from Matco,
> because we use their parts for many other things too. But, at least now
> that there are 2 lining makers for my brakes, I've got options. Then again,
> if you bought a spare 2 or 3 sets of pads for Matco's brakes, you may never
> end up needing to call them again, because they'd wear so much slower.
>
> Either way, it's nice that we have multiple options for our wheels and
> brakes. It keeps us well supplied for the long run. For those who love the
> new brakes, great, and it's nice to remind new builders that they have
> options. For those who would rather have the old brakes, or don't want to
> pony up, I don't see this as any big deal either. Myself, I am just happy
> to see that lining prices are now down under $8 each, so I can keep
> replacing them as needed and enjoy many more years of service. If I were
> building a new RV-10 today, I'd look at the cost difference and then decide
> which way to go. There really isn't a "bad" choice, but there may be a good
> and better. If the price is within a couple or few hundred bucks, I'd just
> go for the best. If not, it's time to start weighing the options. The most
> important thing is to pick one and move on, because agonizing over all the
> details is just going to cost you weeks/months/years of time that you could
> be FLYING instead of building. :)
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 7/3/2014 12:53 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>> I've had Clevelands on all my airplanes .... and never had any problem
>> in over 40 years. I can't see where twice the stopping power is a
>> benefit! Where do y'all need to jump on the brakes like that???
>> Linn
>>
>> On 7/3/2014 11:57 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>> Is the feeling that the Cleveland brakes are inadequate? Anyone have
>>> problems flat spotting tires with the upgraded Matco brakes? It would
>>> seem the Matco brake pads are more expensive than Rapco, and ties you
>>> to a single source for pads.
>>>
>>> It does appear that the cost is under $900, where I believe the
>>> Cleveland set was over $2000. Of course then there is the effort to
>>> sell the unused Cleveland set.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Geoff Combs
>>> >> >
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I was one of the first few people to install these brakes. I think
>>> Sean Strasburg was the first. They are far superior to
>>>
>>> The stock brakes. I have had them on for over a year and love them.
>>>
>>> Geoff
>>>
>>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> ] *On Behalf Of *DLM
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 03, 2014 9:34 AM
>>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> *Subject:* RV10-List: brakes
>>>
>>> You may want to check the Matco brakes for the RV10. Price
>>> competitive and about twice the stopping power.
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I have never experienced any fade; but I do not think I've made any maximum effort
stops at gross, nor have I aborted a takeoff. And the numbers say that if
I started from 70 knots instead of 50 there would be twice as much heat to deal
with. Maybe the Clevelands are right on the edge of fading in normal operation?
I also wonder if the castoring nose wheel plays in here, for aborted takeoffs?
E.g., at the start of a takeoff roll are the brakes already hot from a long
taxi?
Question: has anyone compared the Rapco pads vs the Clevelands, for fast/maximum
effort stops?
Tim, I believe current kits from Vans ship with Matco or Grove wheels, so an "upgrade(?)"
to Clevelands will be more than a few hundred dollars.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426033#426033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
I believe, I was the first to install the Matco. My building partner and I
determined the drilling locations for the calipers. Another pilot flies my
aircraft; I told him that since there were four pads per side to go easy on
the braking. On the other hand if we have to stop, DO IT and we will change
the tires and tubes. I still have and extra set of used Clevelands; planned
to sell them at Copperstate 2013 but was preoccupied. I use the Matco
repadding surface. I have an extra set of shoes and just send in the old set
for renewal and have another set ready to go in the hangar. I also like the
wear indicator in the pad so inspection of wear is readily apparent. and no
they do not fade. If a person has already installed and used the Clevelands
or their clones, I would not necessarily go Matco but given a new build I
would not question to go Matco. Also know that the caliper is and internal
grip as opposed to the external grip of the Clevelands. Also the wheels are
aluminum and weigh an extra pound or two but do not burn as a Class D fire.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I see Vans also offers (supplies?) Grove wheels and brakes. They appear to
use standard Cleveland pads (66-105 or 66-106?) and are in same price range
as the Matco. I can't find a lot of detail on Grove's website to compare
with the Matco.
On Fri, Jul 4, 2014 at 3:24 AM, DLM wrote:
> I believe, I was the first to install the Matco. My building partner and
> I determined the drilling locations for the calipers. Another pilot flies
> my aircraft; I told him that since there were four pads per side to go easy
> on the braking. On the other hand if we *have *to stop, DO IT and we will
> change the tires and tubes. I still have and extra set of used Clevelands;
> planned to sell them at Copperstate 2013 but was preoccupied. I use the
> Matco repadding surface. I have an extra set of shoes and just send in the
> old set for renewal and have another set ready to go in the hangar. I also
> like the wear indicator in the pad so inspection of wear is readily
> apparent. and no they do not fade. If a person has already installed and
> used the Clevelands or their clones, I would not necessarily go Matco but
> given a new build I would not question to go Matco. Also know that the
> caliper is and internal grip as opposed to the external grip of the
> Clevelands. Also the wheels are aluminum and weigh an extra pound or two
> but do not burn as a Class D fire.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
In the last couple of years we have seen three failures of the Cleveland cal
ipers on RV-10s. Two of them were on the same plane and with in a couple day
s of each other. Sure, there's probably some relation to piloting technique
or to a particular hard use of the brakes, but in my opinion, the caliper s
houldn't fail. What appears to happen is that the caliper expands so much th
at fluid can get by the o-ring. And something seems to happen the causes the
m to the deform permanently and the fluid will slowly leak out after the eve
nt. The first caliper we saw this on had almost new brake pads. The second h
ad brake pads with about 100 hours on them, but they were still within spec.
In the process of researching the brakes and searching for a fix, I found ou
t the following, some of which has already been repeated in this thread. Van
s switched from Cleveland to Grove in the kits, primarily because of pricing
. They switched from the single puck Cleveland design to the single puck Gro
ve design. We wanted more stopping power and no possibility of fading, so w
e looked at the Matco design. We also contacted Grove and they offered up a t
wo puck caliper that they would recommend for the 10. In the end we went wit
h the Matco design because they had the kit dialed in.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2014, at 7:01 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I see Vans also offers (supplies?) Grove wheels and brakes. They appear to
use standard Cleveland pads (66-105 or 66-106?) and are in same price range
as the Matco. I can't find a lot of detail on Grove's website to compare wi
th the Matco.
>
>
>> On Fri, Jul 4, 2014 at 3:24 AM, DLM wrote:
>> I believe, I was the first to install the Matco. My building partner and I
determined the drilling locations for the calipers. Another pilot flies my a
ircraft; I told him that since there were four pads per side to go easy on t
he braking. On the other hand if we have to stop, DO IT and we will change t
he tires and tubes. I still have and extra set of used Clevelands; planned t
o sell them at Copperstate 2013 but was preoccupied. I use the Matco repaddi
ng surface. I have an extra set of shoes and just send in the old set for re
newal and have another set ready to go in the hangar. I also like the wear i
ndicator in the pad so inspection of wear is readily apparent. and no they d
o not fade. If a person has already installed and used the Clevelands or the
ir clones, I would not necessarily go Matco but given a new build I would no
t question to go Matco. Also know that the caliper is and internal grip as o
pposed to the external grip of the Clevelands. Also the wheels are aluminum
and weigh an extra pound or two but do not burn as a Class D fire.
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall penetrations |
Has anyone used or considered using the steel eyeball from Doubletree,
model 6100, for the control cables passing through the firewall?
http://www.doubleteeproducts.com/products.html
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap Chafing / Tape |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I am looking at getting my -10 painted in a month or so. Over the past year I have
noticed that the flaps chafe against the upper skin. My concern is that when
everything is painted, the nonexistent gap between the flap and upper skin
will become very tight.
I am planning on installing 3m tape but am wondering if I should open up the gap
by putting a small upward bend in the skin.
Has anyone faced this problem and if so how did you deal with it.
Is there any preference to putting the tape on the flap or underneath the skin?
Is there any tape that is preferable?
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426106#426106
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Chafing / Tape |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I installed tape on the bottom of the upper skin. I installed it during final
assembly after painting. I made no adjustments to make the gap wider. No
problems or scratches after 1.5 years.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 4, 2014, at 10:36 PM, "kearney" wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking at getting my -10 painted in a month or so. Over the past year I
have noticed that the flaps chafe against the upper skin. My concern is that
when everything is painted, the nonexistent gap between the flap and upper skin
will become very tight.
>
> I am planning on installing 3m tape but am wondering if I should open up the
gap by putting a small upward bend in the skin.
>
> Has anyone faced this problem and if so how did you deal with it.
>
> Is there any preference to putting the tape on the flap or underneath the skin?
>
> Is there any tape that is preferable?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426106#426106
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Chafing / Tape |
Vans sells a tape that works great. It is definitely best to put it under the bottom
skin, because it discolors and looks bad on the flap. I wouldn't bend the
skin. The flap, when up, will bend the top skin ever so slightly, but this gives
it a nice tight seal with no extra drag.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 5, 2014, at 6:11 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I installed tape on the bottom of the upper skin. I installed it during final
assembly after painting. I made no adjustments to make the gap wider.
No problems or scratches after 1.5 years.
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Jul 4, 2014, at 10:36 PM, "kearney" wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> I am looking at getting my -10 painted in a month or so. Over the past year
I have noticed that the flaps chafe against the upper skin. My concern is that
when everything is painted, the nonexistent gap between the flap and upper skin
will become very tight.
>>
>> I am planning on installing 3m tape but am wondering if I should open up the
gap by putting a small upward bend in the skin.
>>
>> Has anyone faced this problem and if so how did you deal with it.
>>
>> Is there any preference to putting the tape on the flap or underneath the skin?
>>
>> Is there any tape that is preferable?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426106#426106
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Chafing / Tape |
| From: | "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> |
I used the Vans tape and have not had any issues in the last 5 years. Put the
tape in the underside of the wing skin after paint. As the others have said you
will want the tight seal in reflex to reduce drag.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426124#426124
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Chafing / Tape |
I used the UHMW tape from Van's. I put the tape on the flaps after paint,
the bottom of the tape flush with the wing skin with the flap in the up
position. My thought was if the tape is on the bottom of the skin then if
any piece of grit got between the tape and the flap it would scratch the
paint on the flap.
I did the same on the 8A. The tape lasted right at 10 years. When I sold
the plane I replaced the tape by using just a little hot air gun to soften
it the tape but not the paint. The replacement process took just a few
minutes.
I found other places to use the tape as well, like where the inboard rudder
peddle cable links come close to the sides of the tunnel.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kearney
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 10:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Chafing / Tape
Hi
I am looking at getting my -10 painted in a month or so. Over the past year
I have noticed that the flaps chafe against the upper skin. My concern is
that when everything is painted, the nonexistent gap between the flap and
upper skin will become very tight.
I am planning on installing 3m tape but am wondering if I should open up the
gap by putting a small upward bend in the skin.
Has anyone faced this problem and if so how did you deal with it.
Is there any preference to putting the tape on the flap or underneath the
skin?
Is there any tape that is preferable?
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426106#426106
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Chafing / Tape |
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
I opened the gap a bit and my painter installed the tape under the skin.
No issues.
Dave Leikam
On Jul 4, 2014, at 9:36 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking at getting my -10 painted in a month or so. Over the past year I
have noticed that the flaps chafe against the upper skin. My concern is that
when everything is painted, the nonexistent gap between the flap and upper skin
will become very tight.
>
> I am planning on installing 3m tape but am wondering if I should open up the
gap by putting a small upward bend in the skin.
>
> Has anyone faced this problem and if so how did you deal with it.
>
> Is there any preference to putting the tape on the flap or underneath the skin?
>
> Is there any tape that is preferable?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426106#426106
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LEON EVERETT <leeverett(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Chafing / Tape |
Timely question for me. After 125 hrs I have a small line (1") of wear. I t
ook it to the paint shop in Tusculoosa yesterday to have it touched up. The
painter who did a great job on the plane has recommended the tape under t
he trailing edge wing skin. Leon Everett
> Subject: RV10-List: Flap Chafing / Tape
> From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
> Date: Fri=2C 4 Jul 2014 19:36:39 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking at getting my -10 painted in a month or so. Over the past ye
ar I have noticed that the flaps chafe against the upper skin. My concern i
s that when everything is painted=2C the nonexistent gap between the flap a
nd upper skin will become very tight.
>
> I am planning on installing 3m tape but am wondering if I should open up
the gap by putting a small upward bend in the skin.
>
> Has anyone faced this problem and if so how did you deal with it.
>
> Is there any preference to putting the tape on the flap or underneath the
skin?
>
> Is there any tape that is preferable?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426106#426106
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Chafing / Tape |
| From: | Gordon Anderson <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
Les,
The trailing edge of the upper skin was pretty wavy on my QB wings. In reflex
position I measured everything between gaps of 1/8" to interference of almost
1/8" which I considered a bit too much preload on the flap. It is very easy to
adjust these by hand to give a more or less uniform snug fit (ie. touching with
very light preload) along the length of the flap.
Cheers,
Gordon
41015, Switzerland
On Jul 5, 2014, at 4:36 AM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking at getting my -10 painted in a month or so. Over the past year I
have noticed that the flaps chafe against the upper skin. My concern is that
when everything is painted, the nonexistent gap between the flap and upper skin
will become very tight.
>
> I am planning on installing 3m tape but am wondering if I should open up the
gap by putting a small upward bend in the skin.
>
> Has anyone faced this problem and if so how did you deal with it.
>
> Is there any preference to putting the tape on the flap or underneath the skin?
>
> Is there any tape that is preferable?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426106#426106
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Access to tire vale stems |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I saw a couple of pix from of -10s in SA that appear to have nicely sized access
ports on the wheel pants. Does anyone know about these. I would be interested
in being able to access tire valve stems simply and easily.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426264#426264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
Do yourself a favor and convert you wheels to take 90 degree valve
stems. Use a valve stem extender sold in truck tire stores through a
small hole in the wheel pant to air up the tire. To make it easy to
line up the stem/hole paint a white stripe vertically on the inside of
the tire ..... you can see the stripe when you're handling the tow bar.
Linn
On 7/7/2014 10:40 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I saw a couple of pix from of -10s in SA that appear to have nicely sized access
ports on the wheel pants. Does anyone know about these. I would be interested
in being able to access tire valve stems simply and easily.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426264#426264
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
You can drill a 2" hole centered 2-2.5" aft and 1/2" above the axle screw. Cirrus
sells a 2" plug that will fit the hole. You have to leave the valve cover off,
but you can easily add air.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 7, 2014, at 10:40 PM, "kearney" wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I saw a couple of pix from of -10s in SA that appear to have nicely sized access
ports on the wheel pants. Does anyone know about these. I would be interested
in being able to access tire valve stems simply and easily.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426264#426264
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I drilled 3/4" holes then used a metal cover like Cleaveland sells. You can buy
the same thing at the local hardware store for about a quarter per wheel.
I also painted a mark on the tire when the valve stem is aligned with the hole.
The system works well, except its a PITA if you are by yourself. It's impossible
to see the marks on the tires while holding the tow bar.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 7, 2014, at 10:40 PM, "kearney" wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I saw a couple of pix from of -10s in SA that appear to have nicely sized access
ports on the wheel pants. Does anyone know about these. I would be interested
in being able to access tire valve stems simply and easily.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426264#426264
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Yes, it's a bit of a pain to take off the pants. But, unless your tubes leak badly,
you really ought to be looking at brakes, wheels, etc., about as often as
your tubes need air.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426269#426269
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
That's been my standard reply to this for years too. I personally
don't need the added temptation to SKIP taking the fairings off,
because I know I'd succumb. I generally only have to take them
off in spring and fall,with the leak guard tubes, and I think brake
pads deserve inspection more often than that.
Tim
> On Jul 7, 2014, at 9:39 PM, "Bob Turner" wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it's a bit of a pain to take off the pants. But, unless your tubes leak
badly, you really ought to be looking at brakes, wheels, etc., about as often
as your tubes need air.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426269#426269
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
| From: | "charliewaffles" <mcooper(at)live.com> |
I added in a small door to each wheel pant. Just took a hole saw and then built
up a fiberglass flange and some nutplates. Each enough to do and free.
http://myrv10factory.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/20140401_222133489_ios.jpg
http://myrv10factory.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/20140205_231629512_ios.jpg
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426306#426306
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Chafing / Tape |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Thanks to everyone for the chafing suggestion. I'll go with the tape under the
wing skin.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426341#426341
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Linn et al
Thanks for the suggestions. I have the caps for the pants already. I didn't know
that 90 degree extensions were available so I will definitely go that route.
I do take Tim's point about not skipping the brake inspections though.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426342#426342
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Les,
The extensions are straight, valve stems are 90 degrees, so they point straight
out instead of towards the axle nut.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426356#426356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | window fiberglass |
Installing the windows is coming up fast .... what fiberglass are y'all
using on the outside around the windows to prevent paint cracking???
Source?
ACS has 8 Oz. cloth tape but I believe I really want thinner stuff.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: window fiberglass |
To be honest, I can't remember the weight. I used two layers of whatever it was.
It's been a year and a half. No cracks yet.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 9, 2014, at 1:57 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
Installing the windows is coming up fast .... what fiberglass are y'all using on
the outside around the windows to prevent paint cracking???
Source?
ACS has 8 Oz. cloth tape but I believe I really want thinner stuff.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | window fiberglass |
I used the "standard" e glass:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/120.php
with 2-3 layers around each window. You of course will need to add mico on
top of the glass to get it feathered into the canopy top.
On the windshield I use carbon fiber for the fuselage to windshield joint.
I'm happy with the outcome.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window fiberglass
To be honest, I can't remember the weight. I used two layers of whatever it
was. It's been a year and a half. No cracks yet.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 9, 2014, at 1:57 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
Installing the windows is coming up fast .... what fiberglass are y'all
using on the outside around the windows to prevent paint cracking???
Source?
ACS has 8 Oz. cloth tape but I believe I really want thinner stuff.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: window fiberglass |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
At model airplane shops you can get some very nice low profile tightly woven tape.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426413#426413
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: window fiberglass |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I've been flying for three years with no cracks around the windows. I used the
standard E-Cloth Carl mentioned. Having said that, I do have a small crack at
the top of the windshield that I need to fill. Maybe I should have used the carbon
fiber Carl mentioned....
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426419#426419
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access to tire vale stems |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Try going pantless, like me....
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426420#426420
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2640_110.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: New Flightline Interiors RV-10 Carpet |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
We've decided to go with a different interior color scheme on our second RV-10
and have a brand new, never opened RV-10 carpet set from Flightline Interiors
(Abby). Set includes Color is dark blue - almost Navy blue but not quite that
dark and is the same color that was in our first plane.
Carpet covers floors, tunnel, baggage area floor and baggage area sidewall as shown on her website: http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/products/rv10/default.asp
$450 and I'll include shipping to anywhere in the CONUS.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426428#426428
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Section FF-4 - Fuel system |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Page 3
I have an original copy of plans that does not show a support hanger
attached to #6 intake tube, and one that came with my kit which does show
said hangar, and still is labeled as revision zero.
It says to fabricate the hanger from "crating strap."
What have others done, and what sort of strapping did you use? I'm thinking
perhaps of the strapping plumbers use to support pipes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | WD-1023-PC needed. |
I am working on an RV-10 Door Repair and need the WD-1023 Strut Bracket. Problem
is that Van's is out of stock until the 21st. Does anybody have their finishing
kit that won't be working on the doors for a while that could loan me their
part until I get the new one (which I will send to you to replace yours)?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-1023-PC needed. |
I think Sean at planearound.com makes those, and he may even have materials choices.
Tim
> On Jul 11, 2014, at 6:09 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
> I am working on an RV-10 Door Repair and need the WD-1023 Strut Bracket. Problem
is that Van's is out of stock until the 21st. Does anybody have their finishing
kit that won't be working on the doors for a while that could loan me their
part until I get the new one (which I will send to you to replace yours)?
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WD-1023-PC needed. |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Jesse, I've got 2 of the Vans brackets, I used Sean's and these are surplus
to my needs. Drop me an email with your address if you want 'em and I'll
get them in the Mail.
Bob
On Friday, July 11, 2014, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I think Sean at planearound.com makes those, and he may even have
> materials choices.
> Tim
>
>
> > On Jul 11, 2014, at 6:09 PM, Jesse Saint > wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > I am working on an RV-10 Door Repair and need the WD-1023 Strut Bracket.
> Problem is that Van's is out of stock until the 21st. Does anybody have
> their finishing kit that won't be working on the doors for a while that
> could loan me their part until I get the new one (which I will send to you
> to replace yours)?
> >
> >
> > Jesse Saint
> > Saint Aviation, Inc.
> > 352-427-0285
> > jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts |
I sent this email to Van's today. Something to watch out for...
>Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:23:02 -0700
>To: support(at)vansaircraft.com
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
>
>
>Dear Van's,
>
>I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have them re-powder coated
in a textured black to match the rest of my interior. While stripping, I have
noticed a couple of things regarding factory powder coating. Perhaps the most
disturbing was the high build up rust under parts in certain areas, primarily
the ones made from the 4130 plate (see attached pictures). This will eventually
cause the powder to flake off.
>
>The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel parts! On every
single steel part that I have stripped, there is no surface preparation such
as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will be undergoing
these steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best possible protection
from future rust break through. Additionally, the adhesion of the powder coat
is significantly better with these additional surface preparations. The cost
differential is minimal, since high-end coaters usually do these steps by default.
>
>Many builders faced with changing the color of their steel parts will simply choose
to paint or powder coat over the top of the factory powder coating. This
will eventually lead to a less-than-satisfactory result for the reasons outlined
above.
>
>FYI.
>
>-
>Matt Dralle
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Chafing / Tape |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
My tape is under the top skin as many above.
The only things I can add are...
While flaps are down in the hangar, before every flight from home, clean and wax
flap top leading edges where they contact tape. Clean tape too.
When landing on a wet grass strip like Triple Tree (SC00), do not retract muddy
flaps past halfway until you shut down. Then clean them and the tape.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426690#426690
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: Full RV-10 Carpet Set - New, From Flightline Interiors |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Carpet is sold
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=426754#426754
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts and other problems |
I'll give you my tail of woe!
Last Sunday I was making a routine landing at my home airport and on the ro
llout the nose gear departed the plane and then the gear strut stuck into t
he pavement and when the plane continued over it folded up underneath. It w
as a main gear landing at a slow speed. Prop strike=2C very badly mangled f
irewall where the nose gear strut cut into it=2C big gouge on left side whe
re the nose wheel hit fusalage and then into the left flap. All at low spee
d. Gas everywhere. I was fortunate that it didn't roll over when the strut
dug into the pavement. The insurance adjustor come out today and looked it
over. His opinion agreed with me as to cause of accident. The gear strut br
oke at the weld where it attaches to the upright spindle on the wheel assem
bly. Looks to be a very poor weld and not a very robust design to boot. The
weld was very small in width and didn't penetrate very deep. Split right
down the middle of the weld=2C I wonder how many ticking time bombs are out
there ready to blow off the nose gears. Not in a place to check very often
either. Dan
> Date: Sun=2C 13 Jul 2014 11:28:20 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
>
>
> I sent this email to Van's today. Something to watch out for...
>
>
> >Date: Sun=2C 13 Jul 2014 11:23:02 -0700
> >To: support(at)vansaircraft.com
> >From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> >Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
> >
> >
> >Dear Van's=2C
> >
> >I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have them re-powder
coated in a textured black to match the rest of my interior. While strippi
ng=2C I have noticed a couple of things regarding factory powder coating.
Perhaps the most disturbing was the high build up rust under parts in certa
in areas=2C primarily the ones made from the 4130 plate (see attached pictu
res). This will eventually cause the powder to flake off.
> >
> >The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel parts!
On every single steel part that I have stripped=2C there is no surface pr
eparation such as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will
be undergoing these steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best pos
sible protection from future rust break through. Additionally=2C the adhes
ion of the powder coat is significantly better with these additional surfac
e preparations. The cost differential is minimal=2C since high-end coaters
usually do these steps by default.
> >
> >Many builders faced with changing the color of their steel parts will si
mply choose to paint or powder coat over the top of the factory powder coat
ing. This will eventually lead to a less-than-satisfactory result for the
reasons outlined above.
> >
> >FYI.
> >
> >-
> >Matt Dralle
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete=3B Now In Full Flye
r Mode
>
> Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morrow <rv10john(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts and other problems |
Hi Danny,=0AI would like to examine my nose gear for the poor weld.- I am
not sure what weld you are talking about.- Is a picture available?- Th
ank you for speaking out on this issue.=0A-=0AJohn Morrow=0A#40461, airfr
ame complete =0A=0A=0AOn Wednesday, July 16, 2014 4:09 PM, Danny Riggs wrote:=0A =0A=0A=0A =0AI'll give you my tail of woe!=0ALas
t Sunday I was making a routine landing at my home airport and on the rollo
ut the nose gear departed the plane and then the gear strut stuck into the
pavement and when the plane continued over it folded up underneath. It was
a main gear landing at a slow speed. Prop strike, very badly mangled firewa
ll where the nose gear strut cut into it, big gouge on left side where the
nose wheel hit fusalage and then into the left flap. All at low speed. Gas
everywhere. I was fortunate that it didn't roll over when the strut dug int
o the pavement. The insurance adjustor come out today and looked it over. H
is opinion agreed with me as to cause of accident. The gear strut broke at
the weld where it attaches to the upright spindle on the wheel assembly. Lo
oks to be a very poor weld and not a very robust design to boot. The weld
- was very small in width and didn't penetrate very deep. Split right dow
n the middle of the weld, I wonder how many ticking time bombs are
out there ready to blow off the nose gears. Not in a place to check very o
ften either.- Dan=0A=0A=0A> Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:28:20 -0700=0A> To:
rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A> From: dralle(at)matronics.com=0A> Subject: RV10-L
ist: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts=0A> =0A> =0A> I sent this email to Van's today.
Something to watch out for...=0A> =0A> =0A> >Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:23
matronics.com>=0A> >Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >Dear V
an's,=0A> >=0A> >I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have t
hem re-powder coated in a textured black to match the rest of my interior.
While stripping, I have noticed a couple of things regarding factory powde
r coating. Perhaps the most disturbing was the high build up rust under pa
rts in certain areas, primarily the ones made from the 4130 plate (see atta
ched pictures). This will eventually cause the powder to flake off.=0A> >
=0A> >The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel par
ts! On every single steel part that I have stripped, there is no surface p
reparation such as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will
be undergoing these steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best po
ssible protection from future rust break through. Additionally, the adhesi
on of the powder coat is significantly better with these additional surface
preparations. The cost differential is minimal, since high-end coaters us
ually do these steps by default.=0A> >=0A> >Many builders faced with changi
ng the color of their steel parts will simply choose to paint or powder coa
t over the top of the factory powder coating. This will eventually lead to
a less-than-satisfactory result for the reasons outlined above.=0A> >=0A>
>FYI.=0A> >=0A> >-=0A> >Matt Dralle=0A> =0A> -=0A> Matt Dralle=0A> =0A> RV-
8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"=0A> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete
RV-8 Construction Log=0A> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap R
ebuild Log=0A> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube C
hannel=0A> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mish
ap...=0A> =0A> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"=0A> http://www.mattsrv6.com -
Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log=0A> Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upg
rades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode=0A> =0A> Matt's Livermore Airport Li
ve ATC Stream!=0A> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at
the Livermore=0A> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions.
Archives too!=0A> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.
================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
It's that time of year again to eat too much, have a few drinks, and talk
RV10s! The RV10 builder cookout is almost here...
Date: Sunday, July 27th
Time: 6PM.
Location: It's going to be held in the same place as the last few years in
Camp Scholler, in between 54th and 53rd street:
https://mapsengine.google.com/map/ed...Q.kGsNSWbLT7wo
*If you'd like to attend, please sign up
at:http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals....1&v=b76fb5e60f
<http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=CWOT8581&v=b76fb5e60f>*
You can sign up to bring some food and drinks to share, or just kick in a
few bucks. Fun times will be had by all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
Thanks Ed, I signed up and will hopefully arrive in time. We're supposed
to be there mid-day Sunday.
On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
> It's that time of year again to eat too much, have a few drinks, and talk
> RV10s! The RV10 builder cookout is almost here...
>
> Date: Sunday, July 27th
> Time: 6PM.
> Location: It's going to be held in the same place as the last few years in
> Camp Scholler, in between 54th and 53rd street:
> https://mapsengine.google.com/map/ed...Q.kGsNSWbLT7wo
>
>
>
> *If you'd like to attend, please sign up at:
> http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals....1&v=b76fb5e60f
> <http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=CWOT8581&v=b76fb5e60f>*
>
> You can sign up to bring some food and drinks to share, or just kick in a
> few bucks. Fun times will be had by all!
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Need coordinates to deliver Wisconsin Beer Saturday PM before the rental
car turns into a pumpkin.
John
Ambassador for "One Week Wonder" for Zenith CH750 - this year
On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 3:24 PM, David Saylor wrote:
> Thanks Ed, I signed up and will hopefully arrive in time. We're supposed
> to be there mid-day Sunday.
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
>
>> It's that time of year again to eat too much, have a few drinks, and talk
>> RV10s! The RV10 builder cookout is almost here...
>>
>> Date: Sunday, July 27th
>> Time: 6PM.
>> Location: It's going to be held in the same place as the last few years
>> in Camp Scholler, in between 54th and 53rd street:
>> https://mapsengine.google.com/map/ed...Q.kGsNSWbLT7wo
>>
>>
>>
>> *If you'd like to attend, please sign up at:
>> http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals....1&v=b76fb5e60f
>> <http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=CWOT8581&v=b76fb5e60f>*
>>
>> You can sign up to bring some food and drinks to share, or just kick in a
>> few bucks. Fun times will be had by all!
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
For those arriving after Sunday, is there anything else on the schedule?
Cheers
Les
Ps. I will be sorry to miss the Sunday BBQ.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 21, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
>
> It's that time of year again to eat too much, have a few drinks, and talk R
V10s! The RV10 builder cookout is almost here...
>
> Date: Sunday, July 27th
> Time: 6PM.
> Location: It's going to be held in the same place as the last few years in
Camp Scholler, in between 54th and 53rd street:
> https://mapsengine.google.com/map/ed...Q.kGsNSWbLT7wo
>
> If you'd like to attend, please sign up at:
> http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals....1&v=b76fb5e60f
>
> You can sign up to bring some food and drinks to share, or just kick in a f
ew bucks. Fun times will be had by all!
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
John,
Bob & Gary are in their normal locations that they=99ve had for
the last three or four years between 54th and 53rd.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27
Need coordinates to deliver Wisconsin Beer Saturday PM before the rental
car turns into a pumpkin.
John
Ambassador for "One Week Wonder" for Zenith CH750 - this year
On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 3:24 PM, David Saylor
wrote:
Thanks Ed, I signed up and will hopefully arrive in time. We're
supposed to be there mid-day Sunday.
On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
It's that time of year again to eat too much, have a few drinks, and
talk RV10s! The RV10 builder cookout is almost here...
Date: Sunday, July 27th
Time: 6PM.
Location: It's going to be held in the same place as the last few years
in Camp Scholler, in between 54th and 53rd street:
https://mapsengine.google.com/map/ed...Q.kGsNSWbLT7wo
If you'd like to attend, please sign up at:
<http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=CWOT8581&v=b76fb5e60f>
http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals....1&v=b76fb5e60f
You can sign up to bring some food and drinks to share, or just kick in
a few bucks. Fun times will be had by all!
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Bee can be delivered to the site - Gary and I will keep an eye on it...
We're on-site now.
Bob
On Monday, July 21, 2014, John Cox wrote:
> Need coordinates to deliver Wisconsin Beer Saturday PM before the rental
> car turns into a pumpkin.
>
> John
> Ambassador for "One Week Wonder" for Zenith CH750 - this year
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 3:24 PM, David Saylor > wrote:
>
>> Thanks Ed, I signed up and will hopefully arrive in time. We're supposed
>> to be there mid-day Sunday.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Ed Kranz > > wrote:
>>
>>> It's that time of year again to eat too much, have a few drinks, and
>>> talk RV10s! The RV10 builder cookout is almost here...
>>>
>>> Date: Sunday, July 27th
>>> Time: 6PM.
>>> Location: It's going to be held in the same place as the last few years
>>> in Camp Scholler, in between 54th and 53rd street:
>>> https://mapsengine.google.com/map/ed...Q.kGsNSWbLT7wo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *If you'd like to attend, please sign up at:
>>> http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals....1&v=b76fb5e60f
>>> <http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=CWOT8581&v=b76fb5e60f>*
>>>
>>> You can sign up to bring some food and drinks to share, or just kick in
>>> a few bucks. Fun times will be had by all!
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
Why would you want Bee at the camp site? Aren't the mosquitoes enough?
On 7/21/2014 8:50 PM, Bob Condrey wrote:
> Bee can be delivered to the site - Gary and I will keep an eye on
> it... We're on-site now.
>
> Bob
>
> On Monday, July 21, 2014, John Cox > wrote:
>
> Need coordinates to deliver Wisconsin Beer Saturday PM before the
> rental car turns into a pumpkin.
>
> John
> Ambassador for "One Week Wonder" for Zenith CH750 - this year
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 3:24 PM, David Saylor
> > wrote:
>
> Thanks Ed, I signed up and will hopefully arrive in time.
> We're supposed to be there mid-day Sunday.
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Ed Kranz > wrote:
>
> It's that time of year again to eat too much, have a few
> drinks, and talk RV10s! The RV10 builder cookout is almost
> here...
>
> Date: Sunday, July 27th
> Time: 6PM.
> Location: It's going to be held in the same place as the
> last few years in Camp Scholler, in between 54th and 53rd
> street:
> https://mapsengine.google.com/map/ed...Q.kGsNSWbLT7wo
>
>
> *If you'd like to attend, please sign up at:
> http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals....1&v=b76fb5e60f
> <http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=CWOT8581&v=b76fb5e60f>*
>
> You can sign up to bring some food and drinks to share, or
> just kick in a few bucks. Fun times will be had by all!
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Lyle
Sent from my Gateway E4610D desktop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
Makes you forget about the Mosquito dive bombers......................8^)
On 7/21/2014 8:08 PM, Lyle Peterson wrote:
> Why would you want Bee at the camp site? Aren't the mosquitoes enough?
> On 7/21/2014 8:50 PM, Bob Condrey wrote:
>> Bee can be delivered to the site - Gary and I will keep an eye on
>> it... We're on-site now.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On Monday, July 21, 2014, John Cox > > wrote:
>>
>> Need coordinates to deliver Wisconsin Beer Saturday PM before the
>> rental car turns into a pumpkin.
>>
>> John
>> Ambassador for "One Week Wonder" for Zenith CH750 - this year
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 3:24 PM, David Saylor
>> > > wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Ed, I signed up and will hopefully arrive in time.
>> We're supposed to be there mid-day Sunday.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Ed Kranz > > wrote:
>>
>> It's that time of year again to eat too much, have a few
>> drinks, and talk RV10s! The RV10 builder cookout is
>> almost here...
>>
>> Date: Sunday, July 27th
>> Time: 6PM.
>> Location: It's going to be held in the same place as the
>> last few years in Camp Scholler, in between 54th and 53rd
>> street:
>> https://mapsengine.google.com/map/ed...Q.kGsNSWbLT7wo
>>
>>
>> *If you'd like to attend, please sign up at:
>> http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals....1&v=b76fb5e60f
>> <http://www.perfectpotluck.com/meals.php?t=CWOT8581&v=b76fb5e60f>*
>>
>> You can sign up to bring some food and drinks to share,
>> or just kick in a few bucks. Fun times will be had by all!
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
> --
> Lyle
>
> Sent from my Gateway E4610D desktop
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Gotta love iphone typing... Anyway, Gary and I would be please to watch all the
beer John can deliver :)
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427145#427145
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Willing, but have the Rental Pumpkin only till Sat 6 PM. Then the dorms by
BUS Sun-Thu. Think they would frown on my historical hospitality with
"Carry-On" into Camp Swampy. Need a Camp spot to deliver!
Also have a bed at the Dorms available for someone from Saturday, 7/26 thru
to Thursday AM 7/31 then its back to working Graves on the Left Coast for
Alaska Air - (J.D. Power 7X National Award Winner). Leaving PDX in 73
hours for OSH '14.
JC #40600
503-453-6016
On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 8:43 AM, bcondrey wrote:
>
> Gotta love iphone typing... Anyway, Gary and I would be please to watch
> all the beer John can deliver :)
>
> Bob
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427145#427145
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH14 Builders Cookout: Sunday 7/27 |
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
John, I'm in a Jayco Greyhawk Class C about 40 yards south of Lindbergh
between 53rd and 54th. Gary is also here in his Class A Grand Tour Vectra,
immediately south and parallel to me.
Bob
On Tuesday, July 22, 2014, John Cox wrote:
> Willing, but have the Rental Pumpkin only till Sat 6 PM. Then the dorms
> by BUS Sun-Thu. Think they would frown on my historical hospitality with
> "Carry-On" into Camp Swampy. Need a Camp spot to deliver!
>
> Also have a bed at the Dorms available for someone from Saturday, 7/26
> thru to Thursday AM 7/31 then its back to working Graves on the Left Coast
> for Alaska Air - (J.D. Power 7X National Award Winner). Leaving PDX in 73
> hours for OSH '14.
>
> JC #40600
> 503-453-6016
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 8:43 AM, bcondrey > wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> Gotta love iphone typing... Anyway, Gary and I would be please to watch
>> all the beer John can deliver :)
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=427145#427145
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts and other problems |
The RV-10 and RV-8A nose gear leg are different.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma (hotter than hell) AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Morrow
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts and other problems
Hi Danny,
I would like to examine my nose gear for the poor weld. I am not sure what
weld you are talking about. Is a picture available? Thank you for speaking
out on this issue.
John Morrow
#40461, airframe complete
On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 4:09 PM, Danny Riggs wrote:
I'll give you my tail of woe!
Last Sunday I was making a routine landing at my home airport and on the
rollout the nose gear departed the plane and then the gear strut stuck into
the pavement and when the plane continued over it folded up underneath. It
was a main gear landing at a slow speed. Prop strike, very badly mangled
firewall where the nose gear strut cut into it, big gouge on left side where
the nose wheel hit fusalage and then into the left flap. All at low speed.
Gas everywhere. I was fortunate that it didn't roll over when the strut dug
into the pavement. The insurance adjustor come out today and looked it over.
His opinion agreed with me as to cause of accident. The gear strut broke at
the weld where it attaches to the upright spindle on the wheel assembly.
Looks to be a very poor weld and not a very robust design to boot. The weld
was very small in width and didn't penetrate very deep. Split right down the
middle of the weld, I wonder how many ticking time bombs are out there ready
to blow off the nose gears. Not in a place to check very often either. Dan
> Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:28:20 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
>
>
> I sent this email to Van's today. Something to watch out for...
>
>
> >Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:23:02 -0700
> >To: support(at)vansaircraft.com
> >From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> >Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
> >
> >
> >Dear Van's,
> >
> >I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have them re-powder
coated in a textured black to match the rest of my interior. While
stripping, I have noticed a couple of things regarding factory powder
coating. Perhaps the most disturbing was the high build up rust under parts
in certain areas, primarily the ones made from the 4130 plate (see attached
pictures). This will eventually cause the powder to flake off.
> >
> >The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel parts!
On every single steel part that I have stripped, there is no surface
preparation such as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will
be undergoing these steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best
possible protection from future rust break through. Additionally, the
adhesion of the powder coat is significantly better with these additional
surface preparations. The cost differential is minimal, since high-end
coaters usually do these steps by default.
> >
> >Many builders faced with changing the color of their steel parts will
simply choose to paint or powder coat over the top of the factory powder
coating. This will eventually lead to a less-than-satisfactory result for
the reasons outlined above.
> >
> >FYI.
> >
> >-
> >Matt Dralle
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer
Mode
>
> Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
>
hthttp://www.matronics.com/contribut=============
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
Navigator to browse
Un/Subscription,
Chat, FAQ,
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts and other problems |
It's where the nose gear leg meets the nose gear assembly.
From: ibspud(at)roadrunner.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts and other problems
Date: Wed=2C 23 Jul 2014 12:19:55 -0700
The RV-10 and RV-8A nose gear leg are different.Albert GardnerN991RVYuma (h
otter than hell) AZ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owne
r-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Morrow
Sent: Saturday=2C July 19=2C 2014 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts and other problems Hi Danny
=2CI would like to examine my nose gear for the poor weld. I am not sure w
hat weld you are talking about. Is a picture available? Thank you for spe
aking out on this issue. John Morrow#40461=2C airframe complete On Wednesda
y=2C July 16=2C 2014 4:09 PM=2C Danny Riggs wrote: I'll
give you my tail of woe!
Last Sunday I was making a routine landing at my home airport and on the ro
llout the nose gear departed the plane and then the gear strut stuck into t
he pavement and when the plane continued over it folded up underneath. It w
as a main gear landing at a slow speed. Prop strike=2C very badly mangled f
irewall where the nose gear strut cut into it=2C big gouge on left side whe
re the nose wheel hit fusalage and then into the left flap. All at low spee
d. Gas everywhere. I was fortunate that it didn't roll over when the strut
dug into the pavement. The insurance adjustor come out today and looked it
over. His opinion agreed with me as to cause of accident. The gear strut br
oke at the weld where it attaches to the upright spindle on the wheel assem
bly. Looks to be a very poor weld and not a very robust design to boot. The
weld was very small in width and didn't penetrate very deep. Split right
down the middle of the weld=2C I wonder how many ticking time bombs are out
there ready to blow off the nose gears. Not in a place to check very often
either. Dan> Date: Sun=2C 13 Jul 2014 11:28:20 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
>
>
> I sent this email to Van's today. Something to watch out for...
>
>
> >Date: Sun=2C 13 Jul 2014 11:23:02 -0700
> >To: support(at)vansaircraft.com
> >From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> >Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
> >
> >
> >Dear Van's=2C
> >
> >I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have them re-powder
coated in a textured black to match the rest of my interior. While strippin
g=2C I have noticed a couple of things regarding factory powder coating. Pe
rhaps the most disturbing was the high build up rust under parts in certain
areas=2C primarily the ones made from the 4130 plate (see attached picture
s). This will eventually cause the powder to flake off.
> >
> >The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel parts!
On every single steel part that I have stripped=2C there is no surface pre
paration such as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will be
undergoing these steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best possi
ble protection from future rust break through. Additionally=2C the adhesion
of the powder coat is significantly better with these additional surface p
reparations. The cost differential is minimal=2C since high-end coaters usu
ally do these steps by default.
> >
> >Many builders faced with changing the color of their steel parts will si
mply choose to paint or powder coat over the top of the factory powder coat
ing. This will eventually lead to a less-than-satisfactory result for the r
easons outlined above.
> >
> >FYI.
> >
> >-
> >Matt Dralle
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete=3B Now In Full Flye
r Mode
>
> Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
> hthttp://www.matronics.com/contribut============
==
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A
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=0A
=0A
=0A
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June 18, 2014 - Present
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ju