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October 06, 2014 - December 06, 2014

R0 VA-144 OVSZ OVERSIZED BUSHING Linn On 10/5/2014 8:25 PM, bill.peyton wrote: > > Thanks Sean. The P/N does not show up in his post on my computer for some reason..... > > -------- > Bill > WA0SYV > Aviation Partners, LLC > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431554#431554 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
Must have been a batch of bushings or mounts. I'm at 500 hours with a cracked plate but no side play to speak of which suggests it's not from wear but from some out of spec parts. On 10/5/2014 9:00 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > With more need for the oversize bushing it seems like they should put > it in the online catalog. > > BUSH-ST 313X780X1.563 > R0 VA-144 OVSZ > OVERSIZED BUSHING > > Linn > > > On 10/5/2014 8:25 PM, bill.peyton wrote: >> >> Thanks Sean. The P/N does not show up in his post on my computer for >> some reason..... >> >> -------- >> Bill >> WA0SYV >> Aviation Partners, LLC >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431554#431554 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
My point was that they have a fix that's hidden from the -10 owners ..... or at least not widely known as this thread shows. I wonder about the owner/not builder that has no clue .... and the A&P that does the conditional inspection. What happens if the 'fix' isn't found and done where the 'slop' (out of spec) exists ..... ? Does the nose gear fail? Not something I want to experience, and might if not for this list. If it is truly an out of spec part, why didn't a quality inspection catch them? So many nagging questions. Linn On 10/6/2014 12:41 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > > Must have been a batch of bushings or mounts. I'm at 500 hours with a > cracked plate but no side play to speak of which suggests it's not > from wear but from some out of spec parts. > > On 10/5/2014 9:00 PM, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> With more need for the oversize bushing it seems like they should put >> it in the online catalog. >> >> BUSH-ST 313X780X1.563 >> R0 VA-144 OVSZ >> OVERSIZED BUSHING >> >> Linn >> >> >> >> On 10/5/2014 8:25 PM, bill.peyton wrote: >>> >>> Thanks Sean. The P/N does not show up in his post on my computer >>> for some reason..... >>> >>> -------- >>> Bill >>> WA0SYV >>> Aviation Partners, LLC >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431554#431554 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ----- >>> No virus found in this message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2014
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Button Lock vs Glide Free Control Cables
Has anyone used the button lock A-700 control cables instead of the A-740 glide free cables that come with the kit? If so, are you happy with them? -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2014
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Button Lock vs Glide Free Control Cables
Has anyone used the button lock control cables such as the A-700 instead of the A-740 glide free cables that come with the kit? If so, do you like the action better? I am not a fan of the glide free cables and am looking for an alternative. -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button Lock vs Glide Free Control Cables
From: Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Date: Oct 06, 2014
Yes. All my controls are the button lock type with veneer adjustment. I like them a lot. It's been 250 hrs and I would do it again exactly the same. Bob Newman TCW Technologies, LLC 610-928-3420 > On Oct 5, 2014, at 10:26 AM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > > Has anyone used the button lock A-700 control cables instead of the A-740 glide free cables that come with the kit? If so, are you happy with them? > > -Sean #40303 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
Agreed. Just adding information. I would further say that Vans is and has been doing a lousy job of supporting those of us in flying/maintenance mode. It seems they may be responsive in one-on-one react mode but lousy in the proactive informing-the-(the RV10)-flying-community mode. However, as far as one-on-one support I wouldn't know since I stopped calling Vans for advice after I got the "don't worry, it's not the Shuttle, it's more like a lawn mower" speech. Excellent designs, well engineered kits, good customer service, questionable customer support. Perhaps the most you can expect from such an outstanding engineering firm. (sarcasm off) The cracked plate resulted from a minor design oversight. The SB is good but a Service Alert/Letter/Bulletin regarding periodic adjustment could have helped many owners avoid the cracking in the first place. A similar communication seems appropriate for the loose bearings. ...just so you understand where I'm coming from Linn. Sorry if it seemed otherwise. Bill "SB update 3.01; the agony and the ecstasy of CHT and EGT probes for each GD cylinder" Watson On 10/6/2014 12:57 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > My point was that they have a fix that's hidden from the -10 owners > ..... or at least not widely known as this thread shows. I wonder > about the owner/not builder that has no clue .... and the A&P that > does the conditional inspection. What happens if the 'fix' isn't > found and done where the 'slop' (out of spec) exists ..... ? Does the > nose gear fail? Not something I want to experience, and might if not > for this list. > If it is truly an out of spec part, why didn't a quality inspection > catch them? So many nagging questions. > Linn > > On 10/6/2014 12:41 PM, Bill Watson wrote: >> >> Must have been a batch of bushings or mounts. I'm at 500 hours with >> a cracked plate but no side play to speak of which suggests it's not >> from wear but from some out of spec parts. >> >> On 10/5/2014 9:00 PM, Linn Walters wrote: >>> >>> With more need for the oversize bushing it seems like they should >>> put it in the online catalog. >>> >>> BUSH-ST 313X780X1.563 >>> R0 VA-144 OVSZ >>> OVERSIZED BUSHING >>> >>> Linn >>> >>> >>> >>> On 10/5/2014 8:25 PM, bill.peyton wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> Thanks Sean. The P/N does not show up in his post on my computer >>>> for some reason..... >>>> >>>> -------- >>>> Bill >>>> WA0SYV >>>> Aviation Partners, LLC >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Read this topic online here: >>>> >>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431554#431554 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- >>>> No virus found in this message. >>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ----- >>> No virus found in this message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
Okay, that was a rather cringe-worthy post. Rather than retract my rant, let me clarify a bit. I'm in love with my '10 and everything having to do with it including Vans. Van and his team stand a top one of the greatest aviation enterprises in the short history of aviation. How did they do it? At the heart, great design and engineering for a once nascent market. Great engineering makes the world turn and in the case of the RV line of airplanes, the product sells itself. Well designed, engineered and produced for a market segment just drooling for such an offering. I'm one of them and I'm very happy. I do enjoy telling people "oohing and ahhing" over my plane that they need to understand that it is a highly evolved kit. Building it is pretty easy to do and that if they were so motivated, they could do it too. I also enjoy telling them while I had a lot of help completing it, the factory is the last place to go for that help. Rather it was a social media community supported build for me. The community of builders is resource that makes it all possible for the former model airplane builders and their like to complete such a project. I remember going to Oshkosh and S&F looking for a plane to build. Lots of people were selling kits but Vans could barely be accused of it. No, it was very hard to engage someone from the factory in trying to convince you to buy a kit... unless perhaps you took the time to schedule a flight or something. Want a hat, no problem. Want a ride, there's a line. Want to listen to employees compare trip stories, just listen in. No, the product sold itself, the designer/engineer's dream! No need to go to a show or take a ride. It's reputation in the community and the numbers involved told a pretty compelling story for this buyer. I was looking at the '7, dreaming of a '14 and then the '10 flew. Oh Yeah! My guess is that customer support is a litigation liability in addition to being costly. But most important, the builder/flyer community does a more than adequate job of providing that support. It would seem that the '12 is getting a little better flying support just because it's the latest offering. Anyway, half of my temp probes are wired now - the other half will get their bloodied knuckles tomorrow. B*tch B*tch B*tch. Bill "writing stuff helps" Watson On 10/6/2014 2:15 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > > Agreed. Just adding information. > > I would further say that Vans is and has been doing a lousy job of > supporting those of us in flying/maintenance mode. It seems they may > be responsive in one-on-one react mode but lousy in the proactive > informing-the-(the RV10)-flying-community mode. However, as far as > one-on-one support I wouldn't know since I stopped calling Vans for > advice after I got the "don't worry, it's not the Shuttle, it's more > like a lawn mower" speech. > > Excellent designs, well engineered kits, good customer service, > questionable customer support. Perhaps the most you can expect from > such an outstanding engineering firm. > (sarcasm off) > > The cracked plate resulted from a minor design oversight. The SB is > good but a Service Alert/Letter/Bulletin regarding periodic > adjustment could have helped many owners avoid the cracking in the > first place. A similar communication seems appropriate for the loose > bearings. > > ...just so you understand where I'm coming from Linn. Sorry if it > seemed otherwise. > > Bill "SB update 3.01; the agony and the ecstasy of CHT and EGT probes > for each GD cylinder" Watson > > On 10/6/2014 12:57 PM, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> My point was that they have a fix that's hidden from the -10 owners >> ..... or at least not widely known as this thread shows. I wonder >> about the owner/not builder that has no clue .... and the A&P that >> does the conditional inspection. What happens if the 'fix' isn't >> found and done where the 'slop' (out of spec) exists ..... ? Does >> the nose gear fail? Not something I want to experience, and might if >> not for this list. >> If it is truly an out of spec part, why didn't a quality inspection >> catch them? So many nagging questions. >> Linn >> >> On 10/6/2014 12:41 PM, Bill Watson wrote: >>> >>> Must have been a batch of bushings or mounts. I'm at 500 hours with >>> a cracked plate but no side play to speak of which suggests it's not >>> from wear but from some out of spec parts. >>> >>> On 10/5/2014 9:00 PM, Linn Walters wrote: >>>> >>>> With more need for the oversize bushing it seems like they should >>>> put it in the online catalog. >>>> >>>> BUSH-ST 313X780X1.563 >>>> R0 VA-144 OVSZ >>>> OVERSIZED BUSHING >>>> >>>> Linn >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On 10/5/2014 8:25 PM, bill.peyton wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Thanks Sean. The P/N does not show up in his post on my computer >>>>> for some reason..... >>>>> >>>>> -------- >>>>> Bill >>>>> WA0SYV >>>>> Aviation Partners, LLC >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>> >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431554#431554 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> ----- >>>>> No virus found in this message. >>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- >>>> No virus found in this message. >>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ----- >>> No virus found in this message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Button Lock vs Glide Free Control Cables
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Oct 07, 2014
I have done the same as Bob and am happy with the operation -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431607#431607 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2014
Subject: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I'm in the process of putting my flap position sensor in and I'm having an issue where the extreme limits of the flap motor exceed the travel limits of my flap position sensor. Question: Once the flaps are rigged, does the flap motor travel to the extreme limits? Or does it only hit one extreme and not the other? Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com>
Subject: Re: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor
Date: Oct 07, 2014
I have my sensor near the wing root. The way it worked for me was I drilled a hole closer to the pivot point, went from one extreme to the other without an issue. You can determine the location and what it is on the Panel setup later. From: Phillip Perry Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 10:00 AM Subject: RV10-List: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor I'm in the process of putting my flap position sensor in and I'm having an issue where the extreme limits of the flap motor exceed the travel limits of my flap position sensor. Question: Once the flaps are rigged, does the flap motor travel to the extreme limits? Or does it only hit one extreme and not the other? Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor
Date: Oct 07, 2014
First adjust the flaps linkage for full flap up position with the flap motor (and sensor) in the full up position. Go to full down flaps using the set points on the flap sensor rod and then verify they are in the acceptable deployment range. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 1:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor I'm in the process of putting my flap position sensor in and I'm having an issue where the extreme limits of the flap motor exceed the travel limits of my flap position sensor. Question: Once the flaps are rigged, does the flap motor travel to the extreme limits? Or does it only hit one extreme and not the other? Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2014
Subject: Re: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
It travels to the extreme limits. On Oct 7, 2014 1:05 PM, "Phillip Perry" wrote: > I'm in the process of putting my flap position sensor in and I'm having an > issue where the extreme limits of the flap motor exceed the travel limits > of my flap position sensor. > > Question: Once the flaps are rigged, does the flap motor travel to the > extreme limits? Or does it only hit one extreme and not the other? > > Thanks, > Phil > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 07, 2014
Full up, the flaps are against the aft spar and cannot move any further. But full down, they can run to the motor limit if the little notch on the (standard, accessory) flap controler fails. I'd make sure the sensor has enough range to cover that possibility. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431613#431613 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
So it seems all we need to do is let them know ... sometimes. Let me also comment on the 'Vans Bashing' ..... I doubt there's anyone out there that expects any company to be perfect. As with any prolific company and projects of this size there are going to be issues .... some get handled in a timely manner and some don't. When they don't, we seem to take it personally. I think my fiberglass cabin top is a real POS, but I've dealt with it and within a month or so I'll be done with it. the rest of the fiberglass parts seem to be fairly good ... so far ..... so I soldier on. My goal is to have my picture taken with the 'RV Grin' and the issues I have have just slowed me down a little as I work through them. Linn On 10/7/2014 2:05 PM, JasmineG wrote: > Hello Linn, > > I will certainly pass along the word that the > oversized bushing VA-144 should be in our > catalog. Did you also need to place an order for > the bushing? Please let me know. > > Thanks, > > Jasmine > Van's Aircraft > Order Dept. > > On 5 Oct 2014 at 21:00, Linn Walters wrote: > >> With more need for the oversize bushing it seems like they should put it >> in the online catalog. >> >> BUSH-ST 313X780X1.563 >> R0 VA-144 OVSZ >> OVERSIZED BUSHING >> >> Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2014
Subject: Re: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Full up the FLAPS themselves should be adjusted to be up against the aft spar. The flap motor will reach its limit and continue to run. Don't adjust the flaps such that the flap motor is still trying to move the flaps any further. The motor must be allowed to free run without significant binding. Full down the flap motor will also be at its limits but will continue to run. The above statements apply to a system that does not have flap position system. The flap system should be adjusted assuming one or more flap limit switches can / will fail and the system will continue to drive the flap motor. Jim Combs On Tue, Oct 7, 2014 at 1:49 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > Full up, the flaps are against the aft spar and cannot move any further. > But full down, they can run to the motor limit if the little notch on the > (standard, accessory) flap controler fails. I'd make sure the sensor has > enough range to cover that possibility. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431613#431613 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Flap Motor / Pos Sensor
Date: Oct 07, 2014
It will hit both and pop the breaker if left to run. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 7, 2014, at 1:00 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: I'm in the process of putting my flap position sensor in and I'm having an i ssue where the extreme limits of the flap motor exceed the travel limits of m y flap position sensor. Question: Once the flaps are rigged, does the flap motor travel to the extre me limits? Or does it only hit one extreme and not the other? Thanks, Phil D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Oct 07, 2014
I decided to take the nose gear apart today to actually measure the VA144 bushing and respective assembly. Both of the VA-144 bushings measured .730" OD. The VA-143 bushing measured .733 OD. The ID of the tubing on the engine mount was .760 for both areas. I spoke with Ken at Vans. The drawing calls out material of 4130/40 and an OD no greater than .750 with no tolerance given. Ken was nice enough to go to the parts bin and measure new stock -144 and -143 bushings. The measurements ranged from .746" to .748" OD for both. >From the above data one can conclude that either the bushings on my gear have worn almost .020" in 300 hours of use (impossible in my opinion), or Vans had a bad batch at some point in time. I ordered both the oversize (.780" OD) and the standard size bushing for both the -143 and -144 to experiment with. I strongly suggest that this be checked as part of the service bulletin for the nose strut. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431619#431619 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2014
From: Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
I could not find my notes from last march when i dealt with this but .757 rings a bell for the size bushing i ended up with after machining the oversize down to fit my engine mount. - Chris N919AR ----- Original Message ----- From: bill.peyton <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> Subject: RV10-List: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing I decided to take the nose gear apart today to actually measure the VA144 bushing and respective assembly. Both of the VA-144 bushings measured .730" OD. The VA-143 bushing measured .733 OD. The ID of the tubing on the engine mount was .760 for both areas. I spoke with Ken at Vans. The drawing calls out material of 4130/40 and an OD no greater than .750 with no tolerance given. Ken was nice enough to go to the parts bin and measure new stock -144 and -143 bushings. The measurements ranged from .746" to .748" OD for both. >From the above data one can conclude that either the bushings on my gear have worn almost .020" in 300 hours of use (impossible in my opinion), or Vans had a bad batch at some point in time. I ordered both the oversize (.780" OD) and the standard size bushing for both the -143 and -144 to experiment with. I strongly suggest that this be checked as part of the service bulletin for the nose strut. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431619#431619 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: #8!
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Oct 07, 2014
Josiah Galo Saint was born tonight at 7:10pm. First flight to be determined! Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone

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Date: Oct 08, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: #8!
Congratulations Jesse!!! And Momma too!!!! Linn On 10/7/2014 9:13 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > Josiah Galo Saint was born tonight at 7:10pm. First flight to be determined! > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > > Sent from my iPhone >
> > >
> > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: #8!
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Oct 08, 2014
Wonderful news, Jesse! Congratulations. Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 7, 2014, at 9:13 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > Josiah Galo Saint was born tonight at 7:10pm. First flight to be determined! > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > > > Sent from my iPhone >
> > >
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From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: #8!
Date: Oct 08, 2014
Congrats! Sent from my iPhone On Oct 7, 2014, at 9:13 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: Josiah Galo Saint was born tonight at 7:10pm. First flight to be determined! Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone

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From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: #8!
Date: Oct 08, 2014
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From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: #8!
Date: Oct 08, 2014
Start saving now. They run about $1.7-2M but you can get your entire family in one! http://questaircraft.com/ Congrats... I think :-) -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2014 6:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: #8! Josiah Galo Saint was born tonight at 7:10pm. First flight to be determined! Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: #8!
Date: Oct 08, 2014
Just keeping them clothed and fed keeps me tight enough. Don't think that's in the budget in the next 150 years or so. After that we'll see. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Oct 8, 2014, at 11:36 AM, "Ben Westfall" wrote: > > > Start saving now. They run about $1.7-2M but you can get your entire family > in one! http://questaircraft.com/ > > Congrats... I think :-) > > -Ben > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint > Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2014 6:14 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: #8! > > Josiah Galo Saint was born tonight at 7:10pm. First flight to be determined! > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: #8!
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Oct 10, 2014
Congratulations from downunder. You'll need a Cessna Caravan not an RV-10! Warm regards Patrick Pulis Adelaide, South Australia > On 8 Oct 2014, at 11:43, Jesse Saint wrote: > > Josiah Galo Saint was born tonight at 7:10pm. First flight to be determined! > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > > > Sent from my iPhone >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: #8!
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Oct 10, 2014
Or you can get an Aussie made Gippsland Airvan! Warm regards Patrick > On 8 Oct 2014, at 11:43, Jesse Saint wrote: > > Josiah Galo Saint was born tonight at 7:10pm. First flight to be determined! > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > > > Sent from my iPhone >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Dynon heated pitot probes
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 09, 2014
Dynon has released a SB for replacement of their heated pitot probes. Go to Dynonavioinics.com, support, service bulletins. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431719#431719 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: Dynon heated pitot probes
Date: Oct 09, 2014
Thanks for telling us! I got the run around from them at Oshkosh! > Subject: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > Date: Thu=2C 9 Oct 2014 18:27:14 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Dynon has released a SB for replacement of their heated pitot probes. > > Go to Dynonavioinics.com=2C support=2C service bulletins. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431719#431719 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: Dynon heated pitot probes
Date: Oct 09, 2014
Looks like they are being pretty upright about this! Kudos to them. I wish that Van's were that good! > Subject: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > Date: Thu=2C 9 Oct 2014 18:27:14 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Dynon has released a SB for replacement of their heated pitot probes. > > Go to Dynonavioinics.com=2C support=2C service bulletins. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431719#431719 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Dynon heated pitot probes
Date: Oct 10, 2014
Their after the sale service sold me on Dynon years ago. I keep pinging them to bring out a NAV/GPS/COMM to kick Garmin in the butt as they need to learn from Dynon about customer service - and perhaps create the same competition that drove Garmin to drop their prices on experimental market products. We'll see. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2014 11:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes Looks like they are being pretty upright about this! Kudos to them. I wish that Van's were that good! > Subject: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 18:27:14 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Dynon has released a SB for replacement of their heated pitot probes. > > Go to Dynonavioinics.com, support, service bulletins. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431719#431719 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon heated pitot probes
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Oct 10, 2014
They have the COM. They almost have the NAV. The certified IFR GPS is the el usive one. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 10, 2014, at 9:53 AM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote: > > Their after the sale service sold me on Dynon years ago. I keep pinging t hem to bring out a NAV/GPS/COMM to kick Garmin in the butt as they need to l earn from Dynon about customer service =93 and perhaps create the same competition that drove Garmin to drop their prices on experimental market p roducts. We=99ll see. > > Carl > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs > Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2014 11:34 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > > Looks like they are being pretty upright about this! Kudos to them. > I wish that Van's were that good! > > > Subject: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > > Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 18:27:14 -0700 > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > > > Dynon has released a SB for replacement of their heated pitot probes. > > > > Go to Dynonavioinics.com, support, service bulletins. > > > > -------- > > Bob Turner > > RV-10 QB > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431719#431719 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni chref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > &href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution > > ========== > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2014
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Knock When Releasing Brake
When I release the brakes, the right main caliper "knocks". I can make it happen all the time when in the hangar and just pressing and releasing the right brake. It just started happening and can't track it down. The brakes are stiff, so I don't think it's a bleed issue. Anyone seen this happen? Thanks, -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2014
From: David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Dynon heated pitot probes
I defense of Garmin, I have had great customer service from their EXP divis ion. If I have ANY issues with my Garmin set-up, they are an email away and usually respond within minutes, and that's 24/7. I also have a D-6 and the heated Dynon pitot. My D-6 died shortly after installation and was repaire d and returned promptly. Glad they stepped up on the pitot. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 9:53:28 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes Their after the sale service sold me on Dynon years ago. I keep pinging the m to bring out a NAV/GPS/COMM to kick Garmin in the butt as they need to le arn from Dynon about customer service =93 and perhaps create the same competition that drove Garmin to drop their prices on experimental market products. We=99ll see. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2014 11:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes Looks like they are being pretty upright about this! Kudos to them. I wish that Van's were that good! > Subject: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 18:27:14 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Dynon has released a SB for replacement of their heated pitot probes. > > Go to Dynonavioinics.com, support, service bulletins. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431719#431719 > > > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com &href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co ntribution > =========== > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution === ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2014
From: David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Knock When Releasing Brake
My right brake was doing this on occasion also. Yesterday during pre-flight I found a small puddle of brake fluid under the caliper. The pads on that side were well worn unevenly and the came from the caliper piston which was fully extended. The caliper paint itself was a slight shade darker than the left so it must have been hanging up and dragging. The backing plate guide pins had some rough areas too. New parts are on order and I will do both sides of course. David Clifford ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 11:43:07 AM Subject: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake When I release the brakes, the right main caliper "knocks". I can make it happen all the time when in the hangar and just pressing and releasing the right brake. It just started happening and can't track it down. The brakes are stiff, so I don't think it's a bleed issue. Anyone seen this happen? Thanks, -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Knock When Releasing Brake
Date: Oct 10, 2014
I had a rolled caliper piston O ring on the left side at ~100 hours. I also found this on a pre-flight - noting unusual wear on the left tire (photo attached). Pulling the wheel pant I found the brake pad to be essential gone. Pulling the caliper off the piston popped out on its own. My guess on what happened was the rolled O ring caused the piston to remained extended enough with no brakes applied to drag the tire on take offs and landings to cause the wear. I estimate this all happened in ~20 hours of service. Replaced O rings, pads and tires on both sides. Last 100 hours have been trouble free. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Clifford Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 12:33 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake My right brake was doing this on occasion also. Yesterday during pre-flight I found a small puddle of brake fluid under the caliper. The pads on that side were well worn unevenly and the came from the caliper piston which was fully extended. The caliper paint itself was a slight shade darker than the left so it must have been hanging up and dragging. The backing plate guide pins had some rough areas too. New parts are on order and I will do both sides of course. David Clifford _____ From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 11:43:07 AM Subject: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake When I release the brakes, the right main caliper "knocks". I can make it happen all the time when in the hangar and just pressing and releasing the right brake. It just started happening and can't track it down. The brakes are stiff, so I don't think it's a bleed issue. Anyone seen this happen? Thanks, ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon heated pitot probes
From: Gary <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 10, 2014
I too had service that was over and above from Garmin. When my 900x had a so ftware issue they sent a guy out from the factory for a couple of days to de bug my system and get it going again. No cost to me and he even bought me di nner. Service doesn't get much better than that. Gary > On Oct 10, 2014, at 12:25 PM, David Clifford w rote: > > I defense of Garmin, I have had great customer service from their EXP div ision. If I have ANY issues with my Garmin set-up, they are an email away a nd usually respond within minutes, and that's 24/7. I also have a D-6 and t he heated Dynon pitot. My D-6 died shortly after installation and was rep aired and returned promptly. Glad they stepped up on the pitot. > > From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 9:53:28 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > > Their after the sale service sold me on Dynon years ago. I keep pinging t hem to bring out a NAV/GPS/COMM to kick Garmin in the butt as they need to l earn from Dynon about customer service =93 and perhaps create the same competition that drove Garmin to drop their prices on experimental market p roducts. We=99ll see. > > Carl > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs > Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2014 11:34 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > > Looks like they are being pretty upright about this! Kudos to them. > I wish that Van's were that good! > > > Subject: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > > Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 18:27:14 -0700 > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > > > Dynon has released a SB for replacement of their heated pitot probes. > > > > Go to Dynonavioinics.com, support, service bulletins. > > > > -------- > > Bob Turner > > RV-10 QB > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431719#431719 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni chref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > &href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution > > ========== > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > get="_blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li st">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ta-mce-href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > _blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www .matronics.com/contribution > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Knock When Releasing Brake
Date: Oct 10, 2014
Hey Sean, Just a reminder about the issue of sometimes the pedal itself doesn't completely release. There is a release passage at the very bottom of the master cylinder on the pedal that keeps pressure on the line if the pedal doesn't retract fully. I actually rigged up springs to help the pedals retract until someone pointed out that the spring in the cylinder is adequate for the job IF there is no binding in the hinge rod through the bottom of the pedal. Making sure that the holes for that rod are drilled straight is a much easier fix. That may not be your problem, but may be worth checking out. Later, - Lew ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Dynon heated pitot probes
Date: Oct 10, 2014
Glad to hear I=99m in the minority on Garmin service after the sale. Here is my experience with the non-experimental side of Garmin: =C2=B7 GTN-650 transmit audio problem. Doing my own investigation I found out this is a known problem if you use a PS-Engineering audio panel. There is a Garmin software fix, but of course since I=99m not a Garmin dealer I was not allowed to do it. The option was to package it up and send it in or take it to a Garmin dealer. I choose the later. The fix took 10 minutes after I showed them how to do it.. Cost to me was $130, the 100LL to get there and a bunch of boot scuff marks on my wing as a series of certified Garmin Techs climb around my plane. Garmin refused to cover the cost as the unit purchase date was 13 months before I showed up at the dealer. =C2=B7 GTN-650 turns itself off from time to time =93 in flight. Again a known problem and Garmin had a fix. This time however I was able to work with a much more friendly avionics shop to send the unit in for repair and have it covered as my unit did not have the needed upgrade when delivered to me. My cost was over $100 to ship it with the needed insurance coverage. =C2=B7 GTN-650 GPS reception dropping out when transmitting on the GTN-650. There was no such problem when transmitting on the other comm radio. I had a long go around with Garmin on this one. It turns out that while the GTN-650 GPS nav side is shielded from RFI generated from the GTN-650 comm section internal to the unit, there is a is problem (as noted in certified installations) with such things as the ELT antenna picking up the RFI from the GTN-650 and bringing that into the panel such that the GPS receiver got blocked out. There are a host of other factors that either help or hinder this issue. I became far more of an expert on this than I wanted. Long story short I resolved the problem on my own and it all now works. Perhaps Garmin just has me on their black list. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 1:18 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes I too had service that was over and above from Garmin. When my 900x had a software issue they sent a guy out from the factory for a couple of days to debug my system and get it going again. No cost to me and he even bought me dinner. Service doesn't get much better than that. Gary On Oct 10, 2014, at 12:25 PM, David Clifford wrote: I defense of Garmin, I have had great customer service from their EXP division. If I have ANY issues with my Garmin set-up, they are an email away and usually respond within minutes, and that's 24/7. I also have a D-6 and the heated Dynon pitot. My D-6 died shortly after installation and was repaired and returned promptly. Glad they stepped up on the pitot. _____ From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 9:53:28 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes Their after the sale service sold me on Dynon years ago. I keep pinging them to bring out a NAV/GPS/COMM to kick Garmin in the butt as they need to learn from Dynon about customer service =93 and perhaps create the same competition that drove Garmin to drop their prices on experimental market products. We=99ll see. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2014 11:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes Looks like they are being pretty upright about this! Kudos to them. I wish that Van's were that good! > Subject: RV10-List: Dynon heated pitot probes > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 18:27:14 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Dynon has released a SB for replacement of their heated pitot probes. > > Go to Dynonavioinics.com, support, service bulletins. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431719#431719 > > > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com &href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ contribution > ========== > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution get="_blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www .matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ta-mce-href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com _blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matron ics.com/contribution D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D //forums.matronics.com D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Standley <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Knock When Releasing Brake
Date: Oct 10, 2014
This thread reminds me that I never explained how I resolved the "gear leg shake" issue. No one has mentioned it for a long time. Problem solved? Roger #40291 > From: lewgall(at)charter.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake > Date: Fri=2C 10 Oct 2014 13:42:24 -0400 > > > Hey Sean=2C > > Just a reminder about the issue of sometimes the pedal itself doesn't > completely release. There is a release passage at the very bottom of the > master cylinder on the pedal that keeps pressure on the line if the pedal > doesn't retract fully. I actually rigged up springs to help the pedals > retract until someone pointed out that the spring in the cylinder is > adequate for the job IF there is no binding in the hinge rod through the > bottom of the pedal. Making sure that the holes for that rod are drilled > straight is a much easier fix. That may not be your problem=2C but may b e > worth checking out. > > Later=2C - Lew > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com>
Subject: Re: Knock When Releasing Brake
Date: Oct 10, 2014
=9CThis thread reminds me that I never explained how I resolved the "gear leg shake"=9D so how did you? I saw that there was a wedge of wood placed on the back of the leg that was meant to dampen the leg shake. I randomly get it on landings, so haven=99t pursue doing it myself. From: Roger Standley Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 7:21 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake This thread reminds me that I never explained how I resolved the "gear leg shake" issue. No one has mentioned it for a long time. Problem solved? Roger #40291 > From: lewgall(at)charter.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake > Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 13:42:24 -0400 > > > Hey Sean, > > Just a reminder about the issue of sometimes the pedal itself doesn't > completely release. There is a release passage at the very bottom of the > master cylinder on the pedal that keeps pressure on the line if the pedal > doesn't retract fully. I actually rigged up springs to help the pedals > retract until someone pointed out that the spring in the cylinder is > adequate for the job IF there is no binding in the hinge rod through the > bottom of the pedal. Making sure that the holes for that rod are drilled > straight is a much easier fix. That may not be your problem, but may be > worth checking out. > > Later, - Lew > > > === > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Standley <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Gear Leg Shake
Date: Oct 11, 2014
=0A =0A RE: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake Gear Leg=0A Shake =0A =0A Stumbled on the cause by accident. I had tried usual=0A culprits including adjusting tire pressures=2C checking for tire flat spots =2C re-balancing wheels=2C=0A balancing wheel pants=2C rotating tires=2C checking alignment and installin g the=0A wooden braces. The braces shifted the roll-out speed when shaking occurred but nothing=0A I had tried eliminated the problem. Time came for new tires. While balancin g=0A the wheels I noticed that the right wheel and tire were true but the brake disk=0A had a slight wobble. Then I remembered the slow-taxi brake shoe =93chatter =94 I=0A would sometimes hear. Chatter stoped with=0A slight application of right brake pedal. Turns out that the brake disk was not=0A warped and only needed to be trued up against the wheel. The thinnest shims I=0A had were too thick so I ended up using double sided razor blades. A little =0A trial and error brought it all into alignment. Gear leg shake issue resolve d. Roger#40291=0A =0A From: rv10flyer(at)live.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake Date: Fri=2C 10 Oct 2014 20:13:32 -0700 =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =93This thread reminds me that I never explained how I resolved the "gear l eg =0A shake"=94=0A so how did you?=0A =0A I saw that there was a wedge of wood placed on the back of the leg that was =0A meant to dampen the leg shake. I randomly get it on landings=2C so haven=92 t pursue =0A doing it myself.=0A =0A =0A =0A =0A From: Roger Standley =0A Sent: Friday=2C October 10=2C 2014 7:21 PM=0A Subject: RE: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake=0A =0A =0A This thread reminds me that I never explained how I resolved the =0A "gear leg shake" issue. No one has mentioned it for a long time. Problem =0A solved? Roger #40291 =0A > From: lewgall(at)charter.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > =0A Subject: Re: RV10-List: Knock When Releasing Brake > Date: Fri=2C 10 Oct =0A > > > Hey Sean=2C > > Just a =0A reminder about the issue of sometimes the pedal itself doesn't > =0A completely release. There is a release passage at the very bottom of the =0A > master cylinder on the pedal that keeps pressure on the line if the =0A pedal > doesn't retract fully. I actually rigged up springs to help the =0A pedals > retract until someone pointed out that the spring in the =0A cylinder is > adequate for the job IF there is no binding in the hinge =0A rod through the > bottom of the pedal. Making sure that the holes for =0A that rod are drilled > straight is a much easier fix. That may not be =0A your problem=2C but may be > worth checking out. > > Later=2C - =0A Lew > > =0A =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Oct 11, 2014
I finished up replacing all three nose gear bushings, the 143 and 2-144's. When I took an more exact measurement, the 144's were both around .737 OD the 143 was .745 OD. I replaced them with the oversized .780 bushings obtained from Vans. The 144's were turned down to .7625. The 143 was turned to .7640. This left me with adequate clearance for the bushings. This also eliminated all of the play in the nose end of the nose gear, both horizontal and vertical. The AN hardware looked essentially new, so it was not replaced. The Vans P/N for the oversize VA-143 is Bush-ST 438X780X1.938 Oversize Bush VA-143. The 144 is posted above. The good news is after a couple of test flights and long taxis, I think I have eliminated 90% of the vibration I was seeing around 14kts. It was not side to side shimmy, but more of a hobby horse motion with the nose wheel. The excessive play must be exacerbating the resonance. It's not totally gone, I only felt it during the first taxi when the tire had a flat spot. After landing and taxing back it was essentially gone. I need to have a few more flights to pronounce it cured. If you have the RV-10 landing gear shudder and have exhausted all other avenues, this might be an additional check to make. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431773#431773 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-144 Nose Gear Bushing
From: PatrickThyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Oct 12, 2014
Have you put a GOPro out under the wing to see for sure what's happening? It's amazing what you might find. Sent from my iPad > On Oct 11, 2014, at 8:34 or PM, "bill.peyton" wrote: > > > I finished up replacing all three nose gear bushings, the 143 and 2-144's. When I took an more exact measurement, the 144's were both around .737 OD the 143 was .745 OD. I replaced them with the oversized .780 bushings obtained from Vans. The 144's were turned down to .7625. The 143 was turned to .7640. This left me with adequate clearance for the bushings. This also eliminated all of the play in the nose end of the nose gear, both horizontal and vertical. The AN hardware looked essentially new, so it was not replaced. The Vans P/N for the oversize VA-143 is Bush-ST 438X780X1.938 Oversize Bush VA-143. The 144 is posted above. > > The good news is after a couple of test flights and long taxis, I think I have eliminated 90% of the vibration I was seeing around 14kts. It was not side to side shimmy, but more of a hobby horse motion with the nose wheel. The excessive play must be exacerbating the resonance. It's not totally gone, I only felt it during the first taxi when the tire had a flat spot. After landing and taxing back it was essentially gone. I need to have a few more flights to pronounce it cured. > > If you have the RV-10 landing gear shudder and have exhausted all other avenues, this might be an additional check to make. > > -------- > Bill > WA0SYV > Aviation Partners, LLC > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431773#431773 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: #8!
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 12, 2014
Congratulations. -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431790#431790 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FS: RV-10 Throttle Quad, hi-temp cables, etc
From: "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 13, 2014
Changed direction on the panel config, cleaning out the shop: - RV-10 throttle quadrant from Vans (CT 10-3); new $352. $225 including shipping - RV-10 throttle quadrant cable set (TPM), CableCraft custom high temp (black sheathing) and 2" longer than standard length supplied by Vans. new $210 ($70 each). $130 for the set including shipping - AeroSport Products lower console throttle carbon fiber throttle quadrant insert w/bracket; new $135. $75 including shipping Everything is new, never installed. Email me at condreyb at gmail dot com if interested. I've also got these listed on VAF. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431797#431797 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FS: RV-10 Throttle Quad, hi-temp cables, etc
From: "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 13, 2014
All sold, thanks for looking! Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431805#431805 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Advice on red cube install
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 14, 2014
Trying to decide how to install the red cube to the AFP fuel system I have. Engine came with fuel lines made up and looking to possibly cut existing line to make red cube fit. Attached photos show cube strapped to where I'm thinking of placing it. Questions I have: 1). Is this the best location considering the system and lines that I have? 2). Is it enough to support red cube by adel clamps above and below cube and let those clamps be sole support? 3). Where can I send this fuel line to get new fittings attached? https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ugtbx1d3mvj0n4y/AABmGFpc4V3IZbsI98cvO1IOa -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431881#431881 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Advice on red cube install
Date: Oct 14, 2014
I'll reply inline. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Oct 14, 2014, at 8:23 PM, "rvdave" wrote: > > > Trying to decide how to install the red cube to the AFP fuel system I have. Engine came with fuel lines made up and looking to possibly cut existing line to make red cube fit. Attached photos show cube strapped to where I'm thinking of placing it. Questions I have: > > 1). Is this the best location considering the system and lines that I have? That's not a bad location and it should work fine. > > 2). Is it enough to support red cube by adel clamps above and below cube and let those clamps be sole support? I'm not a big fan of that. I would recommend a bracket bolted where you are proposing putting the Adel clamp. > > 3). Where can I send this fuel line to get new fittings attached? You can't. Those lines are made and then the fire sleeve is molded on, I'm pretty sure. Aircraft Spruce has a custom hose order form where you can specify length, ends, sizes, etc. I would replace the single line with 2 new lines for that location. > > https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ugtbx1d3mvj0n4y/AABmGFpc4V3IZbsI98cvO1IOa > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431881#431881 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Advice on red cube install
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Oct 14, 2014
I would call Tom at TSFlightlines a call to see what options you may have regarding modifying your fuel lines, If not possible, he's a great source to get new lines constructed. Sent from my iPad > On Oct 14, 2014, at 8:23 PM, rvdave wrote: > > > Trying to decide how to install the red cube to the AFP fuel system I have. Engine came with fuel lines made up and looking to possibly cut existing line to make red cube fit. Attached photos show cube strapped to where I'm thinking of placing it. Questions I have: > > 1). Is this the best location considering the system and lines that I have? > > 2). Is it enough to support red cube by adel clamps above and below cube and let those clamps be sole support? > > 3). Where can I send this fuel line to get new fittings attached? > > https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ugtbx1d3mvj0n4y/AABmGFpc4V3IZbsI98cvO1IOa > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431881#431881 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2014
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Advice on red cube install
Bonaco is another good source. On 10/14/2014 7:23 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > I would call Tom at TSFlightlines a call to see what options you may have regarding modifying your fuel lines, If not possible, he's a great source to get new lines constructed. > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Oct 14, 2014, at 8:23 PM, rvdave wrote: >> >> >> Trying to decide how to install the red cube to the AFP fuel system I have. Engine came with fuel lines made up and looking to possibly cut existing line to make red cube fit. Attached photos show cube strapped to where I'm thinking of placing it. Questions I have: >> >> 1). Is this the best location considering the system and lines that I have? >> >> 2). Is it enough to support red cube by adel clamps above and below cube and let those clamps be sole support? >> >> 3). Where can I send this fuel line to get new fittings attached? >> >> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ugtbx1d3mvj0n4y/AABmGFpc4V3IZbsI98cvO1IOa >> >> -------- >> Dave Ford >> RV6 flying >> RV10 building >> Cadillac, MI >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431881#431881 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2014
Subject: RPM take off
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Hi all, my engine came without the little cap that could cover the mechanical tachometer take off on the back of the engine. Since I am using the G3X system I would like to install a cover cap on this thing. Does anyone know where you can get the cap? Thx, Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2014
Subject: Re: RPM take off
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Vans, or Avery Tools. On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 8:11 PM, Rick Lark wrote: > Hi all, my engine came without the little cap that could cover the > mechanical tachometer take off on the back of the engine. Since I am using > the G3X system I would like to install a cover cap on this thing. Does > anyone know where you can get the cap? > > Thx, Rick > #40956 > Southampton, Ont > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 14, 2014
Subject: Re: RPM take off
I searched for this for ages. Turns out it was right under my nose... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/tachcap.php?clickkey=41244 --Dave On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 8:11 PM, Rick Lark wrote: > Hi all, my engine came without the little cap that could cover the > mechanical tachometer take off on the back of the engine. Since I am using > the G3X system I would like to install a cover cap on this thing. Does > anyone know where you can get the cap? > > Thx, Rick > #40956 > Southampton, Ont > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Advice on red cube install
Even though I don't have the AFP fuel system, I had the folks at AFP do the hoses. I went to their weekend fuel injection class just to get gain some knowledge about fuel injection systems in general. Great people there. I came away convinced to move my GRT (red cube equivalent) fuel meter from the tunnel to where you are putting yours. It did make my fuel consumption numbers it dead nuts accurate. Months after the class I gave them measurements and such and they provided 2 custom teflon hoses, with firesleeve, a needed AN fitting and 1 foot of firesleeve to wrap the (red cube) with. It cost $191.46 plus shipping. They will provide any consultation desired. As I recall there is a AN fitting 'clocking' consideration with their fuel controllers so if you need to change the direction of the fitting coming out of their unit, you may want to chat with them. Bill "wondering why only 1 mag is firing after engine re-install" Watson On 10/14/2014 8:23 PM, rvdave wrote: > > Trying to decide how to install the red cube to the AFP fuel system I have. Engine came with fuel lines made up and looking to possibly cut existing line to make red cube fit. Attached photos show cube strapped to where I'm thinking of placing it. Questions I have: > > 1). Is this the best location considering the system and lines that I have? > > 2). Is it enough to support red cube by adel clamps above and below cube and let those clamps be sole support? > > 3). Where can I send this fuel line to get new fittings attached? > > https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ugtbx1d3mvj0n4y/AABmGFpc4V3IZbsI98cvO1IOa > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431881#431881 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2014
Subject: Re: RPM take off
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Dave and Kelly, thanks for the point out. I've been searching for that cap for quite some time too. Someone told me it was in ACS, but I couldn't find it. Rick On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 11:21 PM, David Saylor wrote: > I searched for this for ages. Turns out it was right under my nose... > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/tachcap.php?clickkey=41244 > > --Dave > > On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 8:11 PM, Rick Lark wrote: > >> Hi all, my engine came without the little cap that could cover the >> mechanical tachometer take off on the back of the engine. Since I am using >> the G3X system I would like to install a cover cap on this thing. Does >> anyone know where you can get the cap? >> >> Thx, Rick >> #40956 >> Southampton, Ont >> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * >> >> > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Advice on red cube install
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 15, 2014
Thanks guys, called Tom at TS Flightlines and he will add fittings to existing hose, just sent it to him. One other thing--do I need to get a short section of 2" fire sleeve for the cube? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431905#431905 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Advice on red cube install
I don't think it's critical depending on how you have the unit mounted. I was just mimicking an install that I had seen pictured. I managed to use only one Adel clamp on the upstream hose. That combined with the hose and padded (red cube) gave me a secure mount and some vibration/heat protection. My unit is actually mounted on the front of the engine block. But I have an entirely different set of components than you are using. Same idea though. On 10/15/2014 12:36 PM, rvdave wrote: > > Thanks guys, called Tom at TS Flightlines and he will add fittings to existing hose, just sent it to him. One other thing--do I need to get a short section of 2" fire sleeve for the cube? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431905#431905 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Advice on red cube install
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 15, 2014
When I was at that stage I called the red cube's company. They said. 1. The closer to the spider the better. 2. Straight connectors in and out. 3. Preferred no hard direct connection to the engine for vibration. 4. Preferred slight tip up of the exit to the entrance. They also said that they were quite against the Van's tunnel recommendation. I mounted mine at the front of the case on a piece of bent steel with a bit of spring to it and have had zero issues with it. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431917#431917 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Exhaust clearances
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 16, 2014
Am installing Vetterman exhaust and wondering about clearances to cowling. Vans plans show 5/8 min to firewall but don't see anything about cowl clearances. From your experiences of tailpipe/heat/cowl relationship do I need to cut back lower cowl any more? It's currently parallel to firewall at bottom cut edge. Thanks https://www.dropbox.com/m/browse?path=%2FExhaust -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431935#431935 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Advice on red cube install
On 10/15/2014 5:09 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > On 10/15/2014 9:00 AM, Bill Watson wrote: >> Bill "wondering why only 1 mag is firing after engine re-install" Watson > > There is only one thing that will prevent a mag from firing .... a > grounded P-lead. Check the P-lead to make sure you didn't get it > caught between things like the firewall/engine mount when you > re-installed the engine. > Linn Well, actually I lied. After completing the SB and rehanging the engine, the first time I tried a start I got nothing. It just cranked. It wasn't immediately obvious but neither mag was firing! This is embarrassing because I consider myself a careful and reasonably meticulous amateur mechanic but I'll share it for reflective purposes. Using a mirror and flashlight I examined the LH Mag which had not been touched except to disconnect and reconnect the P-lead and the shower of sparks line. It turned out that I had a lock washer jammed between the P-lead terminal and the case of the Mag that was grounding the circuit. After removing the washer and putting a fresh washer /under/ the terminal nut, the engine started. But a mag check indicated that the RH Mag wasn't firing! Unlike the LH Mag, this Mag had been removed to facilitate removal/installation of the tach pickup that is screwed into the side of it. So before the first start, this Mag required pinning and timing which was all completed without an apparent problem. Again using a mirror and a flashlight I examined the RH Mag and discovered that I had put the P-lead terminal underneath the insulating washer instead of on top. Well that seems like it might short the Mag. So with better lighting I rewire the upside down P-lead terminal and try again. The RH Mag is still 'dead'. I should add that every step in this troubleshooting process is followed by much reflection, usually overnight, and study of every reference document available. I have copies of magazine articles, Light Plane Maintenance Newsletters, John Schwaner's Mag book, and printouts of various posts. Tim's informative mark-up of Slick's timing instructions remains the go-to reference guide for Mag timing. Thanks Tim! I decide to just remove the P-lead from the Mag and let it run naked and hot, then work forward from there. Well, that didn't work either. I still had a 'dead' Mag. I should add the the engine started and ran just fine with only the LH Mag working. Only a Mag check indicated that I had a dead Mag. I'm thinking, "Oh no, I may have over torqued the P-lead and ruined the condenser or something else that is going to require parts or a rebuild". But I decide to remove the Mag, take it to the bench, blanket it with brain waves and then very carefully go back through the installation procedure. I pin it, remove a set of plugs, position the prop, install it with fresh gaskets and time it. This time I leave the P-lead disconnected and run it naked and hot again. SUCCESS! The good news is that it is now running perfectly and I got some experience with running a hot mag through the checks. The bad news is that I have absolutely no idea what I had done wrong initially. Test flight scheduled for later today. Linn, you are a gentleman for being so discreet in pointing out the obvious but evidently I'm immune to the obvious. Thanks for giving me a chance to reflect on my stumbles publicly. Bill "finally released from SB jail" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust clearances
Date: Oct 16, 2014
You shouldn't have to cut it back. The exhaust does come very close to the cowl around the heat muffs and where it exits. I recommend a heat shield on the cowl where the exhaust is close. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Oct 16, 2014, at 6:06 AM, "rvdave" wrote: > > > Am installing Vetterman exhaust and wondering about clearances to cowling. Vans plans show 5/8 min to firewall but don't see anything about cowl clearances. From your experiences of tailpipe/heat/cowl relationship do I need to cut back lower cowl any more? It's currently parallel to firewall at bottom cut edge. > Thanks > > https://www.dropbox.com/m/browse?path=%2FExhaust > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431935#431935 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Exhaust clearances
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 16, 2014
Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about exit air, if that is adequate exit area? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2014
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust clearances
If you don't have cold air induction and/or higher compression, you should be fine. Don McDonald ________________________________ From: rvdave <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:29 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about exit air, if that is adequate exit area? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door window replacement
From: "rwwende" <n7006w(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 20, 2014
Has anyone had to replace their door windows? I used weld-on when I installed mine a few years ago. Wondering if there is a "best practice" out there to do this. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432078#432078 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Re: Door window replacement
Date: Oct 20, 2014
I used a router with a flat bottomed ~3/16" bit. Clamped a guide down, set the proper depth, and cut the window out. Left a perfectly flat surface to install the new window.... -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 20, 2014, at 11:58 AM, rwwende wrote: > > > Has anyone had to replace their door windows? I used weld-on when I installed mine a few years ago. Wondering if there is a "best practice" out there to do this. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432078#432078 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2014
Subject: Filtered Air Box
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Hey all, after searching several builder sites, I feel like I'm missing pages for the filtered air box install. Is there really only 2 pages? Thx, Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Filtered Air Box
Yep! My drawings were inside the FAB along with all the other parts. Not sure why they were separate from all the other drawings. Linn On 10/20/2014 10:43 PM, Rick Lark wrote: > Hey all, after searching several builder sites, I feel like I'm > missing pages for the filtered air box install. Is there really only > 2 pages? > Thx, Rick > #40956 > Southampton, Ont > * > > > * > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Firewall penetrations
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2014
I'm at a standstill trying to decide how to get bundles of wires through the firewall. I purchased the swivel grommets from Vans and after reading reviews of galling, bending, and almost ready to bore large holes--am not committing to that process. First of all how do I get a large hole over 1" through the stainless? There must be a tool I haven't seen yet. I have ruined many bits drilling through the stainless in the past until I realized slow speed and lube is your friend. Second I know there are better options out there I believe, just not sure which I'll use yet. The cut off stainless door handles are pretty witty. The rectangular from Avery may work well also. Some have welded their own tubes--i dont quite have that talent. Anyone to share photos and experiences? Also tips to make hole in stainless firewall? Thanks -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432137#432137 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations
From: Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2014
Option #1 You can go to the aviation isle of your local big box hardware store and purchase a stainless bathroom grab bar (handicapped accessory). You cut the ends off and leave about 4inches of straight tube on each end. For $20 you will get 2 elbows with a flange that would cost you hundreds from aircraft spruce. I will post a link to pics for this option later. Option #2 (Taken from VAF forum page http://www.vansairforce.com/community/archive/index.php?t-57730.html ) Here is what I did. I bought a steel contuit junction penetration at Home depot and fit it to the firewall. They sell them in 1/4" diameter increments. I added a 2nd nut to act as a jam-nut. On the engine side I added about 5" of firesleeve with a steel band to keep it tight. I also added the set screw back inside the conduit part to prevent the steel band from slipping off. I have to give credit to my EAA tech rep Deene for the idea. I'm able to fit all three control cables plus my EI coaxials though this point. I'm not flying yet, but it looks to be a good solution thus far. -Brad https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_n09BC0F4KSY/TZqG5mEWEZI/AAAAAAAAABE/G0SpRaIat2c/IMG_2433.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_n09BC0F4KSY/TZqG6dvV64I/AAAAAAAAABI/zLfDlnavK8M/IMG_2432.JPG Hope this helps!! Justin > On Oct 21, 2014, at 15:33, rvdave wrote: > > > I'm at a standstill trying to decide how to get bundles of wires through the firewall. I purchased the swivel grommets from Vans and after reading reviews of galling, bending, and almost ready to bore large holes--am not committing to that process. First of all how do I get a large hole over 1" through the stainless? There must be a tool I haven't seen yet. I have ruined many bits drilling through the stainless in the past until I realized slow speed and lube is your friend. Second I know there are better options out there I believe, just not sure which I'll use yet. The cut off stainless door handles are pretty witty. The rectangular from Avery may work well also. Some have welded their own tubes--i dont quite have that talent. Anyone to share photos and experiences? Also tips to make hole in stainless firewall? Thanks > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432137#432137 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Firewall penetrations
Date: Oct 21, 2014
A "Knockout Punch Kit" works pretty well. Harbor Freight has a cheap set that is adequate. Decent brands are several hundred dollars so the HF ones are the way to go since you probably won't ever use it again. http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html I think most purchase a firewall pass thru kit from spruce or various online sites http://www.safeair1.com/averytools/firewallpassthrough.php http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/firewall_penetration_kit1in.ph p?clickkey=10735 You will want 2 of them and I think most get the larger 1" size assuming the plethora of engine monitor wiring... -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 2:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: Firewall penetrations I'm at a standstill trying to decide how to get bundles of wires through the firewall. I purchased the swivel grommets from Vans and after reading reviews of galling, bending, and almost ready to bore large holes--am not committing to that process. First of all how do I get a large hole over 1" through the stainless? There must be a tool I haven't seen yet. I have ruined many bits drilling through the stainless in the past until I realized slow speed and lube is your friend. Second I know there are better options out there I believe, just not sure which I'll use yet. The cut off stainless door handles are pretty witty. The rectangular from Avery may work well also. Some have welded their own tubes--i dont quite have that talent. Anyone to share photos and experiences? Also tips to make hole in stainless firewall? Thanks -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations
I feel your pain .... from the many cuts by the SS. Right or wrong, here's what I did. I drilled a 3/16" hole and enlarged with a step drill and various dremel bits to accept a plastic grommet. I have a MGL RDAC on the firewall to take all the various engine sensor wires so I really don't have a whole lot of wires going through the firewall. Haven't finished under the cowl yet but I'll put a liberal fillet of fireproof sealer around the bundle. Linn On 10/21/2014 5:33 PM, rvdave wrote: > > I'm at a standstill trying to decide how to get bundles of wires through the firewall. I purchased the swivel grommets from Vans and after reading reviews of galling, bending, and almost ready to bore large holes--am not committing to that process. First of all how do I get a large hole over 1" through the stainless? There must be a tool I haven't seen yet. I have ruined many bits drilling through the stainless in the past until I realized slow speed and lube is your friend. Second I know there are better options out there I believe, just not sure which I'll use yet. The cut off stainless door handles are pretty witty. The rectangular from Avery may work well also. Some have welded their own tubes--i dont quite have that talent. Anyone to share photos and experiences? Also tips to make hole in stainless firewall? Thanks > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Drilling Stainless
Date: Oct 21, 2014
I've experienced great success utilizing the technique in this video. Basi c bits, water, and a chunk of wood to backup the stainless as I drill into i t. Super crisp holes, no burrs, no pulling of the steel by the bit. It's reall y really worked well on small and large holes alike. I don't fear (or hate ) stainless like I did before. You will thank yourself for spending 8 minutes watching it. The only thing he doesn't point out is the wood he uses to backup his drill bit. I just u sed a scrap 2x4. http://youtu.be/NtqXlOX_kF4 You will be pleased. I promise. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 21, 2014, at 5:59 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > > I feel your pain .... from the many cuts by the SS. > Right or wrong, here's what I did. > I drilled a 3/16" hole and enlarged with a step drill and various dremel b its to accept a plastic grommet. I have a MGL RDAC on the firewall to take a ll the various engine sensor wires so I really don't have a whole lot of wir es going through the firewall. Haven't finished under the cowl yet but I'll p ut a liberal fillet of fireproof sealer around the bundle. > Linn > >> On 10/21/2014 5:33 PM, rvdave wrote: >> >> I'm at a standstill trying to decide how to get bundles of wires through t he firewall. I purchased the swivel grommets from Vans and after reading re views of galling, bending, and almost ready to bore large holes--am not comm itting to that process. First of all how do I get a large hole over 1" thro ugh the stainless? There must be a tool I haven't seen yet. I have ruined m any bits drilling through the stainless in the past until I realized slow sp eed and lube is your friend. Second I know there are better options out the re I believe, just not sure which I'll use yet. The cut off stainless door h andles are pretty witty. The rectangular from Avery may work well also. So me have welded their own tubes--i dont quite have that talent. Anyone to sh are photos and experiences? Also tips to make hole in stainless firewall? T hanks >> >> -------- >> Dave Ford >> RV6 flying >> RV10 building >> Cadillac, MI > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2014
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Dave, I went the home made route. I bought a piece of 1" dia, SS rod, drilled/bored it our to 3/4" ID (I have a metal lathe) and then had a welder attach a 1/16" mounting plate/flange. I made 2 large pass throughs for the wiring and 4 smaller others for the control cables for just under $100. Besides being a bargain compared to other options you can purchase, they are good solid and fire proof compared to Van's suggested pass through. Just another data point [?] Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 5:33 PM, rvdave wrote: > > I'm at a standstill trying to decide how to get bundles of wires through > the firewall. I purchased the swivel grommets from Vans and after reading > reviews of galling, bending, and almost ready to bore large holes--am not > committing to that process. First of all how do I get a large hole over 1" > through the stainless? There must be a tool I haven't seen yet. I have > ruined many bits drilling through the stainless in the past until I > realized slow speed and lube is your friend. Second I know there are > better options out there I believe, just not sure which I'll use yet. The > cut off stainless door handles are pretty witty. The rectangular from > Avery may work well also. Some have welded their own tubes--i dont quite > have that talent. Anyone to share photos and experiences? Also tips to > make hole in stainless firewall? Thanks > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432137#432137 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV10 wingtip mod for Aerosun VX landing light
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 24, 2014
I have the Safeair1 ER tanks and would like to install the Aerosun VX landing lights (which require a cutout and mod of the wingtip). It looks like it will be a very tight fit. I haven't the nerve to cut the wingtip without some assurance that this can work out. Has anyone done this successfully? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432238#432238 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV10 Nest 2014
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 24, 2014
All set up where we usually are. More airplanes than we've seen in years. Vendors say it's been a strong show so far. Come hang out in the shade and/or join us for lunch tomorrow (Sat) noonish to twoish. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432239#432239 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 wingtip mod for Aerosun VX landing light
From: "Evolution10" <qvi(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 24, 2014
Same ER tanks and yes the lights fit. Minimal clearance and a lot of work to get them to fit. I think the final product is worth the effort. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432240#432240 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 wingtip mod for Aerosun VX landing light
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 25, 2014
Was it necessary to make any specific modification not called for in the Aeroled instruction? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432255#432255 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 wingtip mod for Aerosun VX landing light
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 25, 2014
Are the kits available now for the 10? Last I heard they were in process. Or if there were instructions available on the procedure it could be done without the fiberglass kit. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432263#432263 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 wingtip mod for Aerosun VX landing light
From: "Evolution10" <qvi(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 25, 2014
Yes, the light needs to be brought forward so as to not interfere with the tanks (think a lot of cutting/fitting to make ir work). Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432275#432275 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV10 Nest 2014
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 26, 2014
Another successful gathering in the books. Fewer flying 10's than we've seen in year's past but a lot more new builders which bodes well for the future. Having my own plane there for the first time was very rewarding and was one of the "goals" during the build. However getting both land and air based RV's there was a challenge. I did get to see my baby flown by someone else for the first time and that was kind of cool. I'm thinking of my rotating every other year for future "last" nest events, but maybe that's just the fatigue talking. Thanks to everyone who participated. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432309#432309 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 540 Bolt Torques
Date: Oct 27, 2014
I'm in the process of running my B-Leads, starter wires, etc. Does anyone recall the torque that goes back on the bolts holding on the oil sump? Related question: I don't have a manual on the 540. If someone has a pdf version I would appreciate a copy for reference items like this. Thanks, Phil Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fwf braded stainless
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 29, 2014
Do the braided stainless lines require the red fire sleeve or is the SS braid considered fire sleeve? Maybe a dumb question-it's been a long day.. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432521#432521 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
Date: Oct 29, 2014
They should have fire sleeve. The braiding is not a fire protection. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 29, 2014, at 8:51 PM, rvdave wrote: > > > Do the braided stainless lines require the red fire sleeve or is the SS braid considered fire sleeve? Maybe a dumb question-it's been a long day.. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432521#432521 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
"require" is such a strong word. I'd put the firesleeve on the SS braided hoses. Actually, all the hoses. The SS braid only slows down the heat deterioration a little ..... Linn On 10/29/2014 8:51 PM, rvdave wrote: > > Do the braided stainless lines require the red fire sleeve or is the SS braid considered fire sleeve? Maybe a dumb question-it's been a long day.. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432521#432521 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben" <n801bh(at)netzero.com>
Date: Oct 30, 2014
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
If you have a under cowling fire hot enough to burn through Stainless St eel braiding.. You have BIGGER problems to deal with.. IMHO.. Ben Haas N801BH www.haaspowerair.com ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwf braded stainless Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 21:03:42 -0400 They should have fire sleeve. The braiding is not a fire protection. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 29, 2014, at 8:51 PM, rvdave wrote: > > > Do the braided stainless lines require the red fire sleeve or is the S S braid considered fire sleeve? Maybe a dumb question-it's been a long day.. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432521#432521 > > > > > > > > > > ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ____________________________________________________________ Odd Trick Fights Diabetes "Unique" Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch Video. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/545190ee970c910ee1763st01duc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
Date: Oct 29, 2014
If the stainless was solid, I'd agree, but it's not. The braid is for streng th. The fire sleeve is to keep the heat away from the line as long as possib le. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 29, 2014, at 9:13 PM, Ben wrote: > > If you have a under cowling fire hot enough to burn through Stainless Stee l braiding.. You have BIGGER problems to deal with.. IMHO.. > > > Ben Haas > N801BH > www.haaspowerair.com > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> > To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwf braded stainless > Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 21:03:42 -0400 > > > They should have fire sleeve. The braiding is not a fire protection. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Oct 29, 2014, at 8:51 PM, rvdave wrote: > > > > > > Do the braided stainless lines require the red fire sleeve or is the SS b raid considered fire sleeve? Maybe a dumb question-it's been a long day.. > > > > -------- > > Dave Ford > > RV6 flying > > RV10 building > > Cadillac, MI > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432521#432521 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Odd Trick Fights Diabetes > "Unique" Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch Video. > DiabetesProtocol.com > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
The SS braid is there for pressure and abrasion resistance. You don't have to burn through the braid .... just get it hot enough to melt the inner lining. That delay with firesleeve may be the difference between having a fire and feeding it more fuel. I would want to delay the decision of whether to burn to death or jump as long as possible. Linn On 10/29/2014 9:13 PM, Ben wrote: > If you have a under cowling fire hot enough to burn through Stainless > Steel braiding.. You have BIGGER problems to deal with.. IMHO.. > Ben Haas > N801BH > www.haaspowerair.com > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> > To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwf braded stainless > Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 21:03:42 -0400 > > > They should have fire sleeve. The braiding is not a fire protection. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Oct 29, 2014, at 8:51 PM, rvdave wrote: > > > > > > Do the braided stainless lines require the red fire sleeve or is the > SS braid considered fire sleeve? Maybe a dumb question-it's been a > long day.. > > > > -------- > > Dave Ford > > RV6 flying > > RV10 building > > Cadillac, MI > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432521#432521 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *Odd Trick Fights Diabetes* > "Unique" Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch Video. > <http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/545190ee970c910ee1763st01duc>DiabetesProtocol.com > <http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3242/545190ee970c910ee1763st01duc> > > * > > > * > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2014
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
There is no requirement for firesleeve...for years none of Van's supplied hoses had any firesleeve. I guess some of the fuel lines do now. Vans hoses have unprotected SS braid on outside, which is very abrasive to anything it vibrates against. If you haven't already guessed, also the cheapest choice. However, using firesleeve gives you and the hose inside protection from heat as well ad reducing the fire risk. Best is integral firesleeve hose, but takes a hose shop special equipment to make them, and cost is 10-15% higher than conventional hose with firesleeve On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 5:51 PM, rvdave wrote: > > Do the braided stainless lines require the red fire sleeve or is the SS > braid considered fire sleeve? Maybe a dumb question-it's been a long day.. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432521#432521 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 30, 2014
Ask your DAR... that will be the final decider. -------- #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432538#432538 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Oct 30, 2014
Here's a great resource I used to get integral firesleeve hoses. http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html Lenny -------- Lenny N311LZ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432539#432539 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
I did that. Years ago. Answer was "I don't care". I suspect that most of them don't. From observations of inspections on others airplanes, there are DARs that 'might' recognize the basic shape, look at the workmanship and sign the necessary documents. Then there are those that have their own personal hot buttons ..... things they look for and want to see. IMHO leaving off the firesleeve is like flying with 1/4 tank of gas. If you ever need it (have a engine compartment fire) you'll wish the firesleeve was there. If you ever run most of that 1/4 tank of gas out and are still not on the ground .... you'll wish you had filled the tank up. My question is "why not use the firesleeve". Weight and cost are the only things I can think of and in the scheme of things .... they're negligible. Now I'll pass on a trick that was taught to me: Cut the firesleeve to length and insert one end of the hose a little way into the firesleeve. Stick your blow gun into the other end of the firesleeve and inflate it. It'll slide on the hose real easy. Coat the raw ends of the firesleeve with red high temp silicone to keep oil and other liquids out. I have one of those nifty tools to make clamps out of safety wire and I use that. You can also whip the ends of the firesleeve (look for 'whipping rope' but be careful ... other kinds of whipping are out there ;-) ) and cover with the red silicone. Linn On 10/30/2014 8:07 AM, johngoodman wrote: > > Ask your DAR... that will be the final decider. > > -------- > #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432538#432538 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
Sorry .... left out that you need to plug one end of the hose. Linn On 10/30/2014 8:37 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > I did that. Years ago. Answer was "I don't care". I suspect that > most of them don't. > From observations of inspections on others airplanes, there are DARs > that 'might' recognize the basic shape, look at the workmanship and > sign the necessary documents. Then there are those that have their > own personal hot buttons ..... things they look for and want to see. > > IMHO leaving off the firesleeve is like flying with 1/4 tank of gas. > If you ever need it (have a engine compartment fire) you'll wish the > firesleeve was there. If you ever run most of that 1/4 tank of gas > out and are still not on the ground .... you'll wish you had filled > the tank up. > > My question is "why not use the firesleeve". Weight and cost are the > only things I can think of and in the scheme of things .... they're > negligible. > > Now I'll pass on a trick that was taught to me: > Cut the firesleeve to length and insert one end of the hose a little > way into the firesleeve. > Stick your blow gun into the other end of the firesleeve and inflate > it. It'll slide on the hose real easy. > Coat the raw ends of the firesleeve with red high temp silicone to > keep oil and other liquids out. > > I have one of those nifty tools to make clamps out of safety wire and > I use that. You can also whip the ends of the firesleeve (look for > 'whipping rope' but be careful ... other kinds of whipping are out > there ;-) ) and cover with the red silicone. > Linn > > On 10/30/2014 8:07 AM, johngoodman wrote: >> >> >> Ask your DAR... that will be the final decider. >> >> -------- >> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432538#432538 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: fire sleeve
Date: Oct 30, 2014
Mine are fire sleeved but there is another alternative to burning to death: a Halon fire bottle plumbed to dump 10# Halon gas on top of the cylinders and behind the baffling. It is an old picture. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: fire suppression
Date: Oct 30, 2014
a better picture ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2014
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
While I suppose a DAR could refuse to approve an aircraft that didn't meet his standards, they are not in the business of reg writing. If they start requiring stuff that isn't in regs, they will find their clientele diminished. While firesleeve hoses in the engine compartment is a "best practice", I've seen nothing to make it a requirement. I can assure you that the hoses Van's supplied for my FWF kit are not firesleeved, neither oil nor fuel. They are the straight SS braided hoses. Van's isn't in the habit of supplying stuff that DARs will balk at approving. On 10/30/2014 5:07 AM, johngoodman wrote: > > Ask your DAR... that will be the final decider. > > -------- > #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432538#432538 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2014
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
Unfortunately Van's leaves you with the options of knowing upfront that some of their hoses are not firesleeved(used to be all). If you know that and delete them from your FWF kit, the cost difference will be small. However, if you believed they had already changed to firesleeved hoses when they had not, for example was the case when I ordered, then I have choice of sending them back for diminished refund, or just buying the hoses desired or using what came in the kit. Just one of many cases where you can spend time, energy and money changing the kit or you can proceed towards getting the kit built. So far, in 40 yrs, I have been fortunate enough to catch leaks before flight and have not had any engine fire beyond a cold start flooded poof that was contained by continued cranking. My last engine overhaul on my certified Mooney saw all integral firesleeve hoses installed, and I like them a lot. On 10/30/2014 5:37 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > > My question is "why not use the firesleeve". Weight and cost are the > only things I can think of and in the scheme of things .... they're > negligible. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
I didn't have the option of adding/deleting since I bought my kit from another builder. However, I think originally the raw SS hoses was a way to keep the costs down and give builders the option of using firesleeve (http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/appages/stratofs.php?clickkey=4409 ..... there are others) or not. The integral firesleeve (IMHO) makes the hose stiffer so I like the stratoflex better anyway. I also make my own hoses (that didn't come in the kit) so the integral firesleeve isn't practical for them. Also, I cut the Vans hose from pump to servo to insert my fuel flow sender .... and the liner was a purplish teflon that wasn't the same size as the white. The fittings were crimped on and the standard JIC fittings wouldn't fit. My local hydraulics place couldn't make anything fit either. BTW, that hose had the stratoflex firesleeve. Linn On 10/30/2014 10:22 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Unfortunately Van's leaves you with the options of knowing upfront > that some of their hoses are not firesleeved(used to be all). > If you know that and delete them from your FWF kit, the cost > difference will be small. However, if you believed they had already > changed to firesleeved hoses when they had not, for example was the > case when I ordered, then I have choice of sending them back for > diminished refund, or just buying the hoses desired or using what came > in the kit. Just one of many cases where you can spend time, energy > and money changing the kit or you can proceed towards getting the kit > built. So far, in 40 yrs, I have been fortunate enough to catch leaks > before flight and have not had any engine fire beyond a cold start > flooded poof that was contained by continued cranking. My last engine > overhaul on my certified Mooney saw all integral firesleeve hoses > installed, and I like them a lot. > > On 10/30/2014 5:37 AM, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> >> My question is "why not use the firesleeve". Weight and cost are the >> only things I can think of and in the scheme of things .... they're >> negligible. >> >> >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: fire suppression
Good alternative!!! Is the fitting on the bottom of the valve a cap or does the tube go into the tunnel? Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: fire suppression
Date: Oct 30, 2014
Is that a Halon bottle? Is it plumbed to the engine compartment or into th e cockpit?? From: dlm34077(at)cox.net Subject: RV10-List: fire suppression Date: Thu=2C 30 Oct 2014 07:05:55 -0700 =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A a better =0A picture=0A =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2014
Subject: Re: Fwf braded stainless
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I disagree about integral firesleeve being stiffer. It is if anything more flexible than standard hose, especially after the firesleeve is installed, and it is smaller diameter which makes a cleaner fit. Just my experience in 30 yrs of working on planes. On Thu, Oct 30, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > I didn't have the option of adding/deleting since I bought my kit from > another builder. However, I think originally the raw SS hoses was a way to > keep the costs down and give builders the option of using firesleeve > (http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/appages/stratofs.php?clickkey=4409 > ..... there are others) > or not. The integral firesleeve (IMHO) makes the hose stiffer so I like > the stratoflex better anyway. I also make my own hoses (that didn't come > in the kit) so the integral firesleeve isn't practical for them. > Also, I cut the Vans hose from pump to servo to insert my fuel flow sender > .... and the liner was a purplish teflon that wasn't the same size as the > white. The fittings were crimped on and the standard JIC fittings wouldn't > fit. My local hydraulics place couldn't make anything fit either. > BTW, that hose had the stratoflex firesleeve. > Linn > > > On 10/30/2014 10:22 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > >> >> Unfortunately Van's leaves you with the options of knowing upfront that >> some of their hoses are not firesleeved(used to be all). >> If you know that and delete them from your FWF kit, the cost difference >> will be small. However, if you believed they had already changed to >> firesleeved hoses when they had not, for example was the case when I >> ordered, then I have choice of sending them back for diminished refund, or >> just buying the hoses desired or using what came in the kit. Just one of >> many cases where you can spend time, energy and money changing the kit or >> you can proceed towards getting the kit built. So far, in 40 yrs, I have >> been fortunate enough to catch leaks before flight and have not had any >> engine fire beyond a cold start flooded poof that was contained by >> continued cranking. My last engine overhaul on my certified Mooney saw all >> integral firesleeve hoses installed, and I like them a lot. >> >> On 10/30/2014 5:37 AM, Linn Walters wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> My question is "why not use the firesleeve". Weight and cost are the >>> only things I can think of and in the scheme of things .... they're >>> negligible. >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: fire suppression
Date: Oct 30, 2014
My bottle is from Stroud Safety of OKC (used to be Phoenix fire Suppression systems), it is plumbed via a single aluminum line to a T bulkhead fitting on the engine side of the firewall, there it splits to two sprayers. One sprayer is plumbed through the top of the baffling and discharges directly over the spider, the second to a sprayer in the center of the firewall aft of the baffling the spray will discharge around the oil filter , lines, fuel lines, fuel pump and magnetos. I apparently do not know how to send a picture so email me directly if you wish to see pictures. My reason for installing the bottle is that I put one in a Glastar and went to A&P school for transport aircraft. My plan if the fire is in the engine compartment, I will shut off the fuel and blow the bottle; the safety pin is usually installed and safe tied to a post on the tunnel. The only difference is that my solution requires I detect the fire before activating the suppression system. On the transport aircraft an engine fire is detected by a system and the fire light illuminates and the crew can verify and then supress with a single button. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: seat patterns
Are there any patterns out there for the front seats? I have patterns for the back seats from Vans .... came with the foam. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: fire suppression
Date: Oct 31, 2014
Yes it is a Halon bottle and the extra nozzle on the neck of the bottle does not but could be plumbed into the tunnel. Picture should be on the list picture file. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November!
Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the Email List and Fourm Services at Matronics. It's solely through the Contributions of List members (you) that these Matronics Lists are possible. You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site http://forums.matronics.com , Wiki site http://wiki.matronics.com , or other related pages such as the List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search , List Browse http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse , etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. YOUR personal Contribution counts! This year we have a really HUGE and TERRIFIC line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. In fact, there are over 30 different gifts to choose from - more than we've ever had before! There's something for everyone, to be sure. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on the Matronics Lists and they have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous members include: Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection http://www.aeroelectric.com Corbin Glowacki of My Pilot Store http://www.mypilotstore.com George Race of Race Consulting http://www.mrrace.com/ Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP http://www.homebuilthelp.com These are very generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and excellent aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Andy, Bob, Corbin, George, and Jon their generous support of the Lists again this year!! Please make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure web site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator RV-4/RV-6/RV-8 Builder/Rebuilder/Pilot ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Firewall pass throigh
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 02, 2014
Here is what I ended up doing for the firewall pass through for wire harnesses and cables. www.dropbox.com/home/FWF%20electrical -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432712#432712 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Dear Listers, There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums. The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November Fund Raiser. Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution too! You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: seat patterns
Sorry to repeat myself ..... do the front seat patterns exist?? Let me know one way or the other. Linn On 10/31/2014 11:05 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > Are there any patterns out there for the front seats? > I have patterns for the back seats from Vans .... came with the foam. > Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2014
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: seat patterns
I've never seen any flying around Linn. I know a bunch of people have done their own seats, but I don't know that there are patterns. I'm betting they just created them as they needed. Tim On 11/3/2014 2:56 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > Sorry to repeat myself ..... do the front seat patterns exist?? > Let me know one way or the other. > Linn > > On 10/31/2014 11:05 AM, Linn Walters wrote: >> Are there any patterns out there for the front seats? >> I have patterns for the back seats from Vans .... came with the foam. >> Linn > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Orth" <mosurf(at)xplornet.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall pass throigh
Date: Nov 03, 2014
Dave, I couldn't get into your DropBox account. Do you have another URL for your account? Thanks, Michael ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 6:27 AM Subject: RV10-List: Firewall pass throigh > > Here is what I ended up doing for the firewall pass through for wire harnesses and cables. > > > www.dropbox.com/home/FWF%20electrical > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432712#432712 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 11/02/14 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall pass throigh
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 04, 2014
ok just figured out how to post a photo, this is one of the ideas recommended to construct a way to get cables and wire harnesses through without having many individual holes in firewall. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432824#432824 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/20141030_114356_189.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall pass throigh
On 11/4/2014 7:35 AM, rvdave wrote: > > ok just figured out how to post a photo, this is one of the ideas recommended to construct a way to get cables and wire harnesses through without having many individual holes in firewall. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > You can also insert the picture ..... resize them to 640 X 480 please! Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution
Today! Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Flying into Visalia
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2014
Anyone based or building out of Visalia CA (VIS)? Looking for some help on a good place to stay just before and during Thanksgiving (Wed and Thurs). Thanks, Don McDonald -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432979#432979 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: seat patterns
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2014
Looked into that option myself but thankfully came to the realization that no pattern will be as accurate as Abby's that fit like gloves and are a tremendous value. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432984#432984 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: seat patterns
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2014
I had my four cloth seat covers and rear seat foams completed at a local upholstery shop for $650. Warm in the winter, cool in the summer, lightweight and relatively inexpensive. -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432985#432985 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 540 Bolt Torques
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2014
I think I found the Lycoming "table of limits" in several places online. -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432986#432986 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Re: seat patterns
Date: Nov 05, 2014
Aerosport Products can do seats for the RV-10 also. We have over six different standard Seats designs and we can do custom designs for your own personal touch. All our seat designs are computer designed with the latest 3D software. We can do seats in any material and they all fit great. www.aerosportproducts.com Geoff Combs Aerosport products > On Nov 5, 2014, at 9:38 PM, "woxofswa" wrote: > > > Looked into that option myself but thankfully came to the realization that no pattern will be as accurate as Abby's that fit like gloves and are a tremendous value. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Flew May 10 2014 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432984#432984 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: seat patterns
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2014
I've seen Geoff's seat coverings and they are very impressive. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=432991#432991 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94551-0347 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button...
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-) I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites. If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!! http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator [Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages, when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum. The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.] ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in
December! Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Panel planning
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 12, 2014
Am currently considering and planning for 2 AFS 5600 displays one in front of each stick similar to Rob Hickmans setup. I have the Aerosport symmetrical panel and looking to put a GTN750 in the upper center as far up as I can get it which will probably leave a little room above for autopilot . Transponder, 2nd comm, Nav, and audio looking to do remote. Looking objectively at this to see if I really need a third screen for redundancy or not? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433515#433515 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Panel planning
Date: Nov 12, 2014
Hi Dave, For redundancy, a 3rd screen really doesn't add anything other than it looks really nice, and it gives you a screen that you can dedicate to MFR functionality (traffic/weather/map/engine) without splitting the main PFD. Basically, it's a "nice to have" item that if you can swing it in the budget is neat, but not necessarily something that adds tremendously to the basic redundancy or reliability. Cheers, Stein Bruch President - SteinAir, Inc. 651-460-6955 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Panel planning Am currently considering and planning for 2 AFS 5600 displays one in front of each stick similar to Rob Hickmans setup. I have the Aerosport symmetrical panel and looking to put a GTN750 in the upper center as far up as I can get it which will probably leave a little room above for autopilot . Transponder, 2nd comm, Nav, and audio looking to do remote. Looking objectively at this to see if I really need a third screen for redundancy or not? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433515#433515 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2014
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
There isn't a way to fit a 750 and an AFS5500 (let alone another 10" display) in the center panel of the Aerosport symmetrical panel, without doing some custom fiberglass or carbon fiber work.But... does it look nice, heck yeah! This is close to the general setup I'm trying to figure out. I want a full MFD in the center, as I don't want to have to reach over to the co-pilot side for mapping, flight planning, weather, etc. If I were doing two screens, I'd probably leave out the co-pilot screen over the center screen, and replace it with something like an iPad. [image: Inline image 1] On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 10:32 AM, rvdave wrote: > > Am currently considering and planning for 2 AFS 5600 displays one in front > of each stick similar to Rob Hickmans setup. I have the Aerosport > symmetrical panel and looking to put a GTN750 in the upper center as far up > as I can get it which will probably leave a little room above for autopilot > . Transponder, 2nd comm, Nav, and audio looking to do remote. Looking > objectively at this to see if I really need a third screen for redundancy > or not? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433515#433515 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 12, 2014
Hi Ed, I like the layout,it's what I was originally thinking but I don't think the 750 would fit that low without major reinforcement of the second bulkhead? Haven't looked that far into it though. Originally my thoughts about the screen in front of copilot but with the touchscreen it's just a swipe of the screen to display different screen modes from what I understand. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433527#433527 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: wingtips
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Nov 12, 2014
I'm noticing that my wingtips extend about 3/8 inch beyond the trailing edge of the aileron. Is this by design? If not, will there be structural issues related to trimming it back? ALSO, if I sand the protruding seam flush along the outboard edge of the wingtip, will that cause a structural concern? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433557#433557 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wingtips
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 13, 2014
It is not unusual to have to modify the trailing edge of the wingtip. What many of us have had to do is to split the trailing edge in order to get proper alignment. Before you get started, follow the alignment procedure in the IM for the flaps and ailerons. If the wing tip does not line up with the trailing edge of the aileron, and it is already installed, the carefully split the trailing edge a allow it to line up. I used a hack saw blade to carefully separate the halves. Line them up then cleco it in place with some temporary clecos to re-attach the upper an lower halves. Fill in the trailing edge with a slurry of thickened epoxy. After it sets up, you can finish off the wing tip flush with the aileron. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433577#433577 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 13, 2014
With all that glass, why would you spend all that money on a 750, when a 650 or even a 430w would provide you with the exact same capability? I also have a different opinion about a third AFS display. If this is an IFR aircraft, then having an independent "Stand Alone" third display for backup is a great idea. Simply adding a third AFS slave display does not get you this backup. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433578#433578 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: wingtips
Date: Nov 13, 2014
put a ratchet strap around the trailing edge of wing tip and leading edge of wing at the rib to make sure you have a good fit before you start cutting anything bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2014
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Regarding the 750 vs the 650, I just went thru that decision process. I was set on the 750 for a few reasons: Remote audio panel capabilities, full on-screen keyboard for entering flight plans, and a nice big uncluttered screen. In the end, however, I'm choosing to go with a 650. My justification for this is that my EFIS is going to be the Garmin G3X Touch, which duplicates many of the capabilities of the 750. There is no remote audio panel option for it, but it sounds like there will be soon enough. The G3X has a full onscreen keyboard for looking things up, and with the FlightStream capabilities, I should be able to push flight plans to the 650 (according to Stein). So, in the end, it would cost me an extra $5000 and valuable panel space for not much gain. That being said, Dave is running AFS panels, so he won't have that full integration... and the justifications above do apply. It's all about preferences. I really don't like the sliding keyboard on the 650... On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 8:43 AM, bill.peyton wrote: > > With all that glass, why would you spend all that money on a 750, when a > 650 or even a 430w would provide you with the exact same capability? > > I also have a different opinion about a third AFS display. If this is an > IFR aircraft, then having an independent "Stand Alone" third display for > backup is a great idea. Simply adding a third AFS slave display does not > get you this backup. > > -------- > Bill > WA0SYV > Aviation Partners, LLC > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433578#433578 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wingtips
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 13, 2014
As Bob just posted, and let me also emphasize that the wing tip should be installed prior to adjusting the trailing edge -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433587#433587 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2014
I like all of your choices as they represent the best in class systems available today. If you fly real IFR, I like back up hardware from a different manufacturer. I am using a GRT Mini-x for the back up EFIS. It is small enough to fit next to the pilot EFIS, and provides a totally self contained redundant system. If the AFS goes TU for any reason, you have everything necessary to get back safely on the ground. Cheers, Frank -------- Frank Dombroski RV-10 2.0 N46VT soon to be flying KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433593#433593 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Panel planning
Date: Nov 13, 2014
There is a thread on VAF that discusses symmetrical vs side by side that is worthy of a read. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=116936 >From what I've heard you won't use the far right screen much at all so I'd somehow put the 2nd EFIS in the center. If money were no object I'd throw a 3rd screen over on the copilot side as well. As for a backup instrument I went with and prefer the Dynon D2 up on the center post similar to Rob Hickman's because I felt that relying on the screen in front of the copilot as the backup would be difficult at best. I've also been told that the backup in the lower left of the panel is very hard to see. -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 8:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Panel planning Am currently considering and planning for 2 AFS 5600 displays one in front of each stick similar to Rob Hickmans setup. I have the Aerosport symmetrical panel and looking to put a GTN750 in the upper center as far up as I can get it which will probably leave a little room above for autopilot . Transponder, 2nd comm, Nav, and audio looking to do remote. Looking objectively at this to see if I really need a third screen for redundancy or not? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433515#433515 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2014
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Panel planning
Hey Ben and all, I have 3 screens, with 2 shifted to the Left (one is near center), and the 3rd is center of co-pilot. I like the arrangement a lot. Both pilots have easy access to the center screen (MFD) and the radio stack. I don't/can't utilize the buttons very much on the far screen without a bunch of stretching, but in my case, that's not needed anyway. But, the one thing I had to add is, I fly very often off of the copilot screen. I don't find it hard at all. Now, if I had to do a lot of button manipulation, it wouldn't be much fun, but, as far as using it for flying, it really isn't bad at all. So I feel that a backup EFIS functioning as backup gauges actually works pretty well over there. It's more comfortable than if you were having to look down to the low part of the pane in front of you, in fact...or especially lower left. The button pushing is the only part that I'd worry much about. If you're using a 2-screen EFIS, I think it would be much better to probably put one on the pilot side, and at furthest, put the 2nd one in the center, if you're planning a lot of single-pilot use, or planning to actually hit buttons on that 2nd screen. A 2nd screen over by the co-pilot that needs to be physically touched by the pilot is going to be very uncomfortable. With 3, you have the best of all worlds. Tim On 11/13/2014 11:13 AM, Ben Westfall wrote: > > There is a thread on VAF that discusses symmetrical vs side by side that is > worthy of a read. > > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=116936 > >>From what I've heard you won't use the far right screen much at all so I'd > somehow put the 2nd EFIS in the center. If money were no object I'd throw a > 3rd screen over on the copilot side as well. As for a backup instrument I > went with and prefer the Dynon D2 up on the center post similar to Rob > Hickman's because I felt that relying on the screen in front of the copilot > as the backup would be difficult at best. I've also been told that the > backup in the lower left of the panel is very hard to see. > > -Ben > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave > Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 8:32 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Panel planning > > > Am currently considering and planning for 2 AFS 5600 displays one in front > of each stick similar to Rob Hickmans setup. I have the Aerosport > symmetrical panel and looking to put a GTN750 in the upper center as far up > as I can get it which will probably leave a little room above for autopilot > . Transponder, 2nd comm, Nav, and audio looking to do remote. Looking > objectively at this to see if I really need a third screen for redundancy or > not? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433515#433515 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2014
Was originally thinking 750 over 650 because of gaining a display and the features of the 750. Since learning the remote non Garmin devices can't be controlled via Garmin display-- audio panel, Nav, transponder, etc, I'm leaning back toward the 650 but still learning the differences between the two. I would think the middle display could be independent of the other two displays in case of TU failure so not sure why a Dynon display would be necessary unless middle display is tied to Afs hub and not truly independent. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433609#433609 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wingtips
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Nov 13, 2014
Actually I did use the strap idea and got perfect alignment. Problem is purely a length issue. I guess if others have cut the trailing edge and put it back with some flox I can do as well. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433610#433610 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Nov 13, 2014
rvdave wrote: > > > I would think the middle display could be independent of the other two displays in case of TU failure so not sure why a Dynon display would be necessary unless middle display is tied to Afs hub and not truly independent. There have been a couple of reported cases of a software failure which simultaneously affected all screens made by the same manufacturer; so some (including me) have opted for a different manufacturer (to assure different software) for a back up EFIS. How you assess this risk is of course up to you. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433614#433614 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: wingtips
Date: Nov 13, 2014
I had to adjust both of mine to make them better. One more than the other. To help line it all up I used a piece of angle Al off of the aileron to get it all lined up. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 12:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: wingtips Actually I did use the strap idea and got perfect alignment. Problem is purely a length issue. I guess if others have cut the trailing edge and put it back with some flox I can do as well. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433610#433610 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wingtips
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Nov 13, 2014
Then a question for Rene...if the only adjustment needed is length, and not alignment, is it necessary to split the wingtip or is there enough structure there to just cut off about 3/8 inch? Can't tell by looking. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433618#433618 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Panel planning
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: wingtips
Date: Nov 13, 2014
One side had a little twist in it that I did not notice until I had mounted it and it was too long. So I cut to length and then built up and sanded strength. The trailing edge was solid. The other one was longer, I think because I did not mount it as far forward as I could. When I looked at it I decided not to split it, but to cut it even and then looked at what was remaining and found that one side had plenty of material but the other did not. On the "bad" side I cut out a small section, filled it in completely and the laid in some cloth. Then filled and sanded to make it smooth. I am not a glass guy, this was done based on advice I got from a glass expert I worked with at the time. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: wingtips Then a question for Rene...if the only adjustment needed is length, and not alignment, is it necessary to split the wingtip or is there enough structure there to just cut off about 3/8 inch? Can't tell by looking. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433618#433618 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Panel planning
On 11/13/2014 4:00 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > Don't know enough about your mission (IFR/VFR, etc) to respond > directly to the OP. > > Here's my experience and thoughts from having installed 3 GRT HXs in > my '10. Flying 3 years. > > * I used Stein's aluminum panel with a middle section angled towards > the pilot seat. I have 1 unit centered for the pilot, one center > on an angle and 1 centered on the co-pilot. > * For normal ops, the pilot has a PFD/Map split screen, the center > is 100% engine, the co-pilot is for my co-pilot. > * For Map work, I flip the center screen to 100% Map. Without the > angle panel, this would be much less desirable. If the angle panel > was not available, in retrospect I would not have installed them > symmetrically because the center panel is 'too far away'. Instead > I would have bunched the 2 screens over in front of the pilot > (with the 3rd centered for the co-pilot.) I've seen pics of > people who have bunched them like that on a flat panel. It > doesn't look as good aesthetically but would work much better than > 3 part symmetry on a flat panel. > * For backup/redundancy I have an ADI, ASI, Alt and AP in front of > the pilot below the screen. If I lose the screen I would > immediately go to those. If possible, I would then transition to > the middle panel. I don't think I could hand fly in the soup > using the co-pilot screen... at least that wouldn't be a planned > alternative. > * iPad: The reality of my flying since my days in gliders and a > Maule is that the latest and greatest portable units will always > be ahead of the panel installed last year. I had a GNC 300XL but > the G396 quickly became the go-to device for nav and wx and > general reference. In the '10, the G430W provides the WAAS > smarts, the GRT displays and integrates, but the iPad running > Foreflight is the go-to device for nav, wx and general reference. > Accordingly, the G396 was RAM mounted to my Maule panel and the > iPad is RAM mounted to my center console. Where and how is your > iPad going to be mounted? > > The only thing I'm absolutely convinced of is that there is no single > optimal solution... perhaps short of G999 <http://youtu.be/TOam7gzbepc> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2014
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Having a different manufacturer for one of the EFIS is a mixed bag, IMHO. Having to know two different menu logic/screens during a high stress period isn't a good idea. I'd lean toward a mini-EFIS from same vendor that uses same menu logic if you aren't comfortable with dual EFIS, dual ADAHARS, dual backup batteries. We each have to decide level of redundancy we are comfortable with. Years ago I flew IFR with one flip flop nav com, one ADF, transponder and venturi vacuum powered AN gyros with an electric turn and bank, with no auto pilot of any kind. Just a handheld navcom for backup/second nav. No GPS, no Loran. That isn't my comfort level today. On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:48 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > > rvdave wrote: > > > > > > I would think the middle display could be independent of the other two > displays in case of TU failure so not sure why a Dynon display would be > necessary unless middle display is tied to Afs hub and not truly > independent. > > > There have been a couple of reported cases of a software failure which > simultaneously affected all screens made by the same manufacturer; so some > (including me) have opted for a different manufacturer (to assure different > software) for a back up EFIS. How you assess this risk is of course up to > you. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433614#433614 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2014
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Panel planning
I think one of the keys to the backup gauge situation is to be honest with yourself and your abilities. Going with a 2nd manufacturer of EFIS is an OK idea, if you use it as a backup gauge system. When the stuff hits the fan though, I'd be willing to bet that most people won't remain IFR current and proficient enough in running 2 systems as full approach systems, if they want them while IFR. So personally, I'm more concerned with having a backup EFIS or backup gauges (either is fine) that will primarily be there to help me keep the plane: Right-side up At the right altitude Headed the right direction Yeah, I have a GNS480 and I can load an approach in it (if I've practiced recently), but if I lose my primary system, I'm probably realistically going to contact ATC and have them give me the hand that I really need. Long ago I had to decide....do you want two systems, or do you want to build one good one that you trust. I really believe that you're better off building one good solid one. Now, that's not saying that for a backup EFIS, such as a GRT mini or something small, you shouldn't just buy one and stick it in. You SHOULD have some sort of backup attitude indication, altitude indication, and heading indication. But just be honest with yourself as to what you're really going to be able to do when you lose that primary system. It takes more work than you'd think, to stay proficient as a weekend pilot. That's why I wouldn't bother going with a dual garmin G3X system, and add in a big AFS, for instance. There is too much buttonology to have that be fun at all. Tim On 11/13/2014 6:57 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > Having a different manufacturer for one of the EFIS is a mixed bag, > IMHO. Having to know two different menu logic/screens during a high > stress period isn't a good idea. I'd lean toward a mini-EFIS from same > vendor that uses same menu logic if you aren't comfortable with dual > EFIS, dual ADAHARS, dual backup batteries. We each have to decide level > of redundancy we are comfortable with. Years ago I flew IFR with one > flip flop nav com, one ADF, transponder and venturi vacuum powered AN > gyros with an electric turn and bank, with no auto pilot of any kind. > Just a handheld navcom for backup/second nav. No GPS, no Loran. That > isn't my comfort level today. > > On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:48 PM, Bob Turner > wrote: > > > > > > rvdave wrote: > > > > > > I would think the middle display could be independent of the > other two displays in case of TU failure so not sure why a Dynon > display would be necessary unless middle display is tied to Afs hub > and not truly independent. > > > There have been a couple of reported cases of a software failure > which simultaneously affected all screens made by the same > manufacturer; so some (including me) have opted for a different > manufacturer (to assure different software) for a back up EFIS. How > you assess this risk is of course up to you. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433614#433614 > > > ========== > et="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com > sbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com > rget="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com > rget="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com > ="_blank">www.mrrace.com > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > le, List Admin. > ========== > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > ">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > > > * > > > * > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Panel planning
Date: Nov 14, 2014
For IFR, I think two independent systems are necessary. My Chelton system with two displays has a complete AHRS and GPS system; my backup is a GRT Sport SX with AHRS and GPS, the tie breaker is a Trutrak Digiflite II with its own solid state gyroscopic capabilities. There are three different ways to keep the clean side up. The AP can be used with each EFIS (LNAV,VNAV) with the Cheltons, LNAV with the GRT and stand alone. The SL30 output for the VOR/LOC/ILS is sent digitally to both EFISs. The backup EFIS has power inputs from both the primary and essential busses. The Cheltons and the Trutrak are powered from the essential buss. The original plan was two 680s in parallel for starting and backup but due to a requirement for a little more forward CG, I added a 680 to the firewall and insulated it. It provides ground power and is isolated from the starting circuit of the essential buss. With the engine running and the alternator providing power, the primary and essential busses are one. >From a practical stand point if you have an EFIS failure while IFR, the failure must be reported to ATC; it is very reasonable to declare and use their assistance to put the aircraft on the ground safely. From a practical standpoint, The primary Chelton is the PFD, the secondary Chelton alternates as MFD during flight and engine data during landing and take off. The backup has a page for MFD with airspeed, altitude, traffic and weather. If the primary fails the backup has three important buttons, PFD,MFD, or engine data. Of course there are lots of split screen possibilities but in an emergency, simple is better. I plan to use it as a PFD which includes engine data; I expect to land at a large airport, if possible, with fire rescue equipment. I obviously would use the AP to keep the wings level while attending to other duties. I find that the things I consider in the planning never seem to happen. Also since the GRT Sport SX has the synthetic approach capability, I have two means of an ILS approach guidance at hand, the crosshairs (from SL30 data) on the Sport and the internal GPS HITS which overlay the ILS. Each must be comfortable with one's own plan. I too learned and hand flew much IMC with round gauges but early on I added an electric AI and a Strikefinder to my C177RG. Now my comfort level requires more. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2014
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Panel planning
I'm curious, since I know of very little data on the subject. How many of you have experienced, or know of an EFIS problem from a software bug in the past say 3 years? During the early years of experimental EFIS systems I'm sure the concern of dual EFIS having dual failure from software bugs was a real concern. At least one vendor recently asserted to me that it really isn't a problem anymore. I've seen nothing to support either side of the discussion. That said, I'd sure want to put some VFR testing time behind any firmware revision before launching IFR to depend on anybody's EFIS. On 11/14/2014 7:14 AM, DLM wrote: > > For IFR, I think two independent systems are necessary. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2014
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Panel planning
I'm sure bugs exist, but I haven't found any in years, actually. A hardware problem is much more likely. But, some systems, like mine and many others, are actually independent CPU's for each screen, so something that affects one doesn't affect all the others. I don't disagree with having items from two manufacturers, but I also don't think that having 2 dis-similar units from one manufacturer wouldn't accomplish the same thing. In the end, the most important thing I think is that you have a reliable primary system, and purchase at least some form of backup system, wether it be EFIS or round gauges. Once you have that, I see no problems regardless of the manufacturer of each. I'm weighing the options for my RV14 build now too. I'm thinking an RC Allen round Attitude indicator (I believe they may be coming out with one with airspeed and heading built in) would be plenty for me for a backup. Other choices are the GRT mini, or round gauges. Certainly I'm not going to waste a ton of panel space on it. I'd prefer to keep it to a 2.25" round gauge if possible. Once you have a good actual instrument as a backup attitude/ altitude/heading indicator, I think the iPad makes a pretty good backup navigational device, and with 4 iphones and 4 ipads in the family, I'm not too concerned with having one available. Tim On 11/14/2014 9:09 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > I'm curious, since I know of very little data on the subject. How many > of you have experienced, or know of an EFIS problem from a software bug > in the past say 3 years? During the early years of experimental EFIS > systems I'm sure the concern of dual EFIS having dual failure from > software bugs was a real concern. At least one vendor recently asserted > to me that it really isn't a problem anymore. I've seen nothing to > support either side of the discussion. That said, I'd sure want to put > some VFR testing time behind any firmware revision before launching IFR > to depend on anybody's EFIS. > > On 11/14/2014 7:14 AM, DLM wrote: >> >> For IFR, I think two independent systems are necessary. >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 15, 2014
Early on I had full and selected EFIS failures and reboots multiple times, one specific one in full IMC. I fully believe that those software bugs have been found and fixed, and I have not had one in over a year 250 hours. So yes, they happen. Don't kid yourself. I agree with Tim, I frequently practice approaches and hand flying with just the backup D6, and it is extremely difficult to fly the plane and set up the GPS to shoot an approach due to the panel layout (D6 way over on left) and it's size. If it happened for real in IMC I would have approach vector me. So define your mission and then define your panel around that mission. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433770#433770 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Panel planning
Zero failures or problem from bugs on my (3) GRT HXs - 3 years and 500+ hours. Plenty of IFR. I don't care for the dual brand EFIS thing either. I use an ADI and some small round guages for basic backup, I can keep it upright with that. The Trutrak AP is a very capable backup as well. Though the 3 systems run the same software, they do run independently from a HW failure standpoint. Dual Batts, dual alts, dual bus, dual AHRS, 3 screens and 3 or 4 GPSs feels good. Having the juice to run the doo-whizzies is pretty important. On 11/14/2014 10:09 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > I'm curious, since I know of very little data on the subject. How many > of you have experienced, or know of an EFIS problem from a software > bug in the past say 3 years? During the early years of experimental > EFIS systems I'm sure the concern of dual EFIS having dual failure > from software bugs was a real concern. At least one vendor recently > asserted to me that it really isn't a problem anymore. I've seen > nothing to support either side of the discussion. That said, I'd sure > want to put some VFR testing time behind any firmware revision before > launching IFR to depend on anybody's EFIS. > > On 11/14/2014 7:14 AM, DLM wrote: >> >> For IFR, I think two independent systems are necessary. >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Panel planning
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Nov 15, 2014
My backup is a Dynon D6, and while you might call it an EFIS there is no button pushing except to change the altimeter setting. I consider it functionally equivalent to a 6-pack of round gauges. I've done practice VOR approaches under the hood using nothing but the D6 and a handheld VOR (Sportys). Workload is high due to having to (figuratively) close my eyes and visualize the digital radial readout as an RMI bearing. But it can be done. Using the iPad (I use WingX) is easier. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433794#433794 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's Your Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers, You might have wondered at some point, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine, List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for the over 23 years of on-line archive data always available for instant search and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power these List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki. But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables all these aspects of Matronics List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the best investments you can make in your Sport! List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Value of the List...
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30 worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription to some magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to think of it, you do... :-) Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these Lists? http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!! Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser...
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't want. Yahoo, Google and that elk are not "free". The user must constantly endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb to that. That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning, maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory. Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine. However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way. Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these Lists? http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few Days Left...
Dear Listers, There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it! The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your Lists! Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists! Please make a Contribution today! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: volts dropped from 14.4 to 1
Date: Nov 23, 2014
I have AFS 4500 in my RV10. Today I took a short 30 min local flight. Taxing in I got a check volts audio alert. The volts suddenly dropped from the usual 14.4 to basically zero. See below in the upper graph in yellow (volts ) at 29 minutes. If the alternator quit I should read the battery voltage not 0. Any ideas on what to check? Alan N668G 300 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2014
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: volts dropped from 14.4 to 1
Probably a failure at the battery ground, or master relay solenoid. You are right that alternator failure would not cause you to go below battery volts. Do you have battery backup on your EFIS or did it also quit at that point? On 11/23/2014 5:02 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > I have AFS 4500 in my RV10. > Today I took a short 30 min local flight. Taxing in I got a check > volts audio alert. The volts suddenly dropped from the usual 14.4 to > basically zero. See below in the upper graph in yellow (volts ) at 29 > minutes. If the alternator quit I should read the battery voltage not 0. > Any ideas on what to check? > Alan > N668G 300 hrs > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: volts dropped from 14.4 to 1
Date: Nov 23, 2014
It could be the breaker/circuit that supplies the voltage sensing has popped. I'm not sure on that unit if it is the power supply line to the EFIS or if it is a separate voltage only line, in which case that wire could be broken or could have been cut or shorted to ground. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2014, at 7:02 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > I have AFS 4500 in my RV10. > Today I took a short 30 min local flight. Taxing in I got a check volts audio alert. The volts suddenly dropped from the usual 14.4 to basically zero. See below in the upper graph in yellow (volts ) at 29 minutes. If the alternator quit I should read the battery voltage not 0. > Any ideas on what to check? > Alan > N668G 300 hrs > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: volts dropped from 14.4 to 1
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Nov 23, 2014
Kelly, I noticed no changes in the EFIS. They have backup battery. It was a sudden failure as you can see. Alan > On Nov 23, 2014, at 7:17 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > > Probably a failure at the battery ground, or master relay solenoid. > You are right that alternator failure would not cause you to go below battery volts. > Do you have battery backup on your EFIS or did it also quit at that point? > On 11/23/2014 5:02 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >> I have AFS 4500 in my RV10. >> Today I took a short 30 min local flight. Taxing in I got a check volts audio alert. The volts suddenly dropped from the usual 14.4 to basically zero. See below in the upper graph in yellow (volts ) at 29 minutes. If the alternator quit I should read the battery voltage not 0. >> Any ideas on what to check? >> Alan >> N668G 300 hrs >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: volts dropped from 14.4 to 1
From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Date: Nov 23, 2014
Jesse, Ill check with Rob at AFS. Alan > On Nov 23, 2014, at 7:33 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > > It could be the breaker/circuit that supplies the voltage sensing has popped. I'm not sure on that unit if it is the power supply line to the EFIS or if it is a separate voltage only line, in which case that wire could be broken or could have been cut or shorted to ground. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > www.mavericklsa.com > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 23, 2014, at 7:02 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: >> >> I have AFS 4500 in my RV10. >> Today I took a short 30 min local flight. Taxing in I got a check volts audio alert. The volts suddenly dropped from the usual 14.4 to basically zero. See below in the upper graph in yellow (volts ) at 29 minutes. If the alternator quit I should read the battery voltage not 0. >> Any ideas on what to check? >> Alan >> N668G 300 hrs >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Farrell <tim(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Re: volts dropped from 14.4 to 1
Date: Nov 23, 2014
I just peeked at the wiring diagrams. eFIs Expansion cable Pin 13 is labels as Volts2, but I don't see a volts1 anywhere. There are two power inputs into the main connector. It is possible that one of them monitors voltage and one doesn't. Possibly one of the came loose. Call advanced and they'll have the answer quickly. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2014, at 4:02 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > I have AFS 4500 in my RV10. > Today I took a short 30 min local flight. Taxing in I got a check volts audio alert. The volts suddenly dropped from the usual 14.4 to basically zero. See below in the upper graph in yellow (volts ) at 29 minutes. If the alternator quit I should read the battery voltage not 0. > Any ideas on what to check? > Alan > N668G 300 hrs > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: volts dropped from 14.4 to 1
Date: Nov 23, 2014
It could be the breaker/circuit that supplies the voltage sensing has popped. I'm not sure on that unit if it is the power supply line to the EFIS or if it is a separate voltage only line, in which case that wire could be broken or could have been cut or shorted to ground. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2014, at 7:02 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > I have AFS 4500 in my RV10. > Today I took a short 30 min local flight. Taxing in I got a check volts audio alert. The volts suddenly dropped from the usual 14.4 to basically zero. See below in the upper graph in yellow (volts ) at 29 minutes. If the alternator quit I should read the battery voltage not 0. > Any ideas on what to check? > Alan > N668G 300 hrs > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Fund Raiser Behind By 20% - Please Contribute Today!
Dear Listers, The percentage of members making a Contribution to support the Lists this year is currently behind last year by at this time by roughly 20%. Please take this opportunity to show your support for the Matronics Lists and Forums! Please remember that it is *solely* your direct Contributions that keep these Lists and Forums up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members don't want to support the Lists directly, then I might have to add advertisements to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I don't want to have to do that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and I think that a lot of the members appreciate that too. Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free operation of all these Lists: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you! Matt Dralle Email List and Forums Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming Soon!
Dear Listers, There's just a few more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means the List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Giving Thanks - Your List Contribution...
Dear Listers, Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous feasts of plenty and giving thanks for the many blessings that have been bestowed upon us. Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists. One of my favorite comments is when someone writes to me and says something like, "Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!". That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists. Its always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning to check my List email!! Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for their continued operation and upgrade? The List Contribution Site is: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you in advance for your kind consideration, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2014
Subject: Center section wing bolt alignment
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
In preparation for attaching my QB wings I tried a trial insertion of the NAS bolts into the two halves of the center carrythrough in the QB fuselage. The pilot side holes are lined up and bolts fit snuggly. Passenger side the holes have at least a 1/16" vertical misallignment that would prevent getting the bolts in regardless of force applied. Have others run into this and come up with a solution? I have email drafted to go to Van's for their solution, but some how I doubt I have the only quick built that isn't just right. Kelly 95% done, 95% to do. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Center section wing bolt alignment
Date: Nov 26, 2014
That sounds like a major problem. Hopefully Van's will make it right. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 26, 2014, at 10:16 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > In preparation for attaching my QB wings I tried a trial insertion of the N AS bolts into the two halves of the center carrythrough in the QB fuselage. T he pilot side holes are lined up and bolts fit snuggly. Passenger side the h oles have at least a 1/16" vertical misallignment that would prevent getting the bolts in regardless of force applied. > Have others run into this and come up with a solution? I have email drafte d to go to Van's for their solution, but some how I doubt I have the only qu ick built that isn't just right. > Kelly > 95% done, 95% to do. > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Center section wing bolt alignment
Date: Nov 27, 2014
Hey Kelly, 1/16=9D vertical misalignment is a lot. I=99m not sure if this is the same issue you=99re talking about, but I did find that on our quick build the outer =9Csandwich=9D layer on the center spar was just enough out of alignment that I had to file it flush to get the bolts to go through. It was so slight that I didn=99t notice it until I couldn=99t get the bolts to go through on the first trial fit of the wings, but it still took some elbow grease to hand finish it. No problems with it five years of flying. Later, =93 Lew On Nov 26, 2014, at 10:16 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: In preparation for attaching my QB wings I tried a trial insertion of the NAS bolts into the two halves of the center carrythrough in the QB fuselage. The pilot side holes are lined up and bolts fit snuggly. Passenger side the holes have at least a 1/16" vertical misallignment that would prevent getting the bolts in regardless of force applied. Have others run into this and come up with a solution? I have email drafted to go to Van's for their solution, but some how I doubt I have the only quick built that isn't just right. Kelly ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2014
Subject: Re: Center section wing bolt alignment
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Lew, Thanks for the suggestion. I can insert the bolts from back or front and get same misalignment, so I don't think it is the sandwich, but I will look at it again for that specific issue. Kelly On Wed, Nov 26, 2014 at 10:00 PM, wrote: > Hey Kelly, > > 1/16" vertical misalignment is a lot. I'm not sure if this is the same > issue you're talking about, but I did find that on our quick build the > outer "sandwich" layer on the center spar was just enough out of alignment > that I had to file it flush to get the bolts to go through. It was so > slight that I didn't notice it until I couldn't get the bolts to go through > on the first trial fit of the wings, but it still took some elbow grease to > hand finish it. No problems with it five years of flying. > > Later, - Lew > > On Nov 26, 2014, at 10:16 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > In preparation for attaching my QB wings I tried a trial insertion of > the NAS bolts into the two halves of the center carrythrough in the QB > fuselage. The pilot side holes are lined up and bolts fit snuggly. > Passenger side the holes have at least a 1/16" vertical misallignment that > would prevent getting the bolts in regardless of force applied. > Have others run into this and come up with a solution? I have email > drafted to go to Van's for their solution, but some how I doubt I have the > only quick built that isn't just right. > Kelly > > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Center section wing bolt alignment
From: Rich Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com>
Date: Nov 27, 2014
Hi Kelly, After commiserating with you in reading your email, a thought occurred to me. I had purposely forgotten about this so as not to have continuous bad dreams about it. So here is the question: Do you have the same serial number fuselage as you do wings? As in, are the numbers matching? As in, were you one of the unfortunate ones that lost your quick build in the Philippines weather disaster some years ago??? If my memory serves me correctly, I was told that if the numbers were matching these two parts were match drilled or drilled together. But I was also told from Vans that they were drilled with such precision that even if they were not match drilled you could have two different serial number wings and fuselage and that they would match just fine. On a positive note, I do remember one builder sharing that his did not match and all went together just fine. But, maybe there is more to that story Just food for thought in case. I am only weeks behind you in fitting and it was just last week that I was looking at my serial number on the fuselage spar connect and looking for my build serial number only to see it not match. What, I said? And then I remembered, I was supposed to forget that! Check it out and see what you find. Probably more than one inquiring mind would like to know! And if the different serial number issue is not the case, we will still be anxious to hear what you found and did. Enlarging holes is cringe-able to say the least. Building another wing is Super cringe-able. RV-10 - same phase as you - only weeks from attaching wings Rich Hansen > > Subject: RV10-List: Center section wing bolt alignment > From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> > > In preparation for attaching my QB wings I tried a trial insertion of the > NAS bolts into the two halves of the center carrythrough in the QB > fuselage. The pilot side holes are lined up and bolts fit snuggly. > Passenger side the holes have at least a 1/16" vertical misallignment that > would prevent getting the bolts in regardless of force applied. > Have others run into this and come up with a solution? I have email drafted > to go to Van's for their solution, but some how I doubt I have the only > quick built that isn't just right. > Kelly > 95% done, 95% to do. > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Center section wing bolt alignment
Date: Nov 27, 2014
I talked to Van's about this a few months ago. They don't match drill the RV-10 spars to the center sections. Their CNC us accurate enough that they don't need to. The problem is that the center sections were not bolted together with the spacers when they were assembled for riveting, so they don't align. Or, one of the parts is drilled or bent wrong so they don't fit right. It is definitely a problem on Van's part. I have never seen one that didn't align, even I planes assembled by people who had no clue what they were doing, so I assume it's a bad part somewhere in there. This should have been checked as it was being built. Inspect carefully the internal structure and see if any rivets are broken or sheared, if any skins are wrinkled ever so slightly. It could have been tweaked in transport. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 27, 2014, at 12:06 PM, Rich Hansen wrote: > > > Hi Kelly, > After commiserating with you in reading your email, a thought occurred to me. I had purposely forgotten about this so as not to have continuous bad dreams about it. So here is the question: Do you have the same serial number fuselage as you do wings? As in, are the numbers matching? As in, were you one of the unfortunate ones that lost your quick build in the Philippines weather disaster some years ago??? > > If my memory serves me correctly, I was told that if the numbers were matching these two parts were match drilled or drilled together. But I was also told from Vans that they were drilled with such precision that even if they were not match drilled you could have two different serial number wings and fuselage and that they would match just fine. On a positive note, I do remember one builder sharing that his did not match and all went together just fine. But, maybe there is more to that story > > Just food for thought in case. I am only weeks behind you in fitting and it was just last week that I was looking at my serial number on the fuselage spar connect and looking for my build serial number only to see it not match. What, I said? And then I remembered, I was supposed to forget that! > > Check it out and see what you find. Probably more than one inquiring mind would like to know! And if the different serial number issue is not the case, we will still be anxious to hear what you found and did. Enlarging holes is cringe-able to say the least. Building another wing is Super cringe-able. > > RV-10 - same phase as you - only weeks from attaching wings > Rich Hansen > > >> >> Subject: RV10-List: Center section wing bolt alignment >> From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> >> >> In preparation for attaching my QB wings I tried a trial insertion of the >> NAS bolts into the two halves of the center carrythrough in the QB >> fuselage. The pilot side holes are lined up and bolts fit snuggly. >> Passenger side the holes have at least a 1/16" vertical misallignment that >> would prevent getting the bolts in regardless of force applied. >> Have others run into this and come up with a solution? I have email drafted >> to go to Van's for their solution, but some how I doubt I have the only >> quick built that isn't just right. >> Kelly >> 95% done, 95% to do. >> >> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2014
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Center section wing bolt alignment
I will check, but the wing # vs fuselage # is irrelevant in this case. It is the two halves of the center section on one side of the fuselage that have the misalignment. At this stage the wings are not involved. Unfortunately my QB was one of the first to come out of Manila after relocation/reorganization of the facility their. There were a number of QC issues right from the start, like not countersinking the longerons before riveting on the dimpled skins. On 11/27/2014 10:06 AM, Rich Hansen wrote: > > Hi Kelly, > After commiserating with you in reading your email, a thought occurred to me. I had purposely forgotten about this so as not to have continuous bad dreams about it. So here is the question: Do you have the same serial number fuselage as you do wings? As in, are the numbers matching? As in, were you one of the unfortunate ones that lost your quick build in the Philippines weather disaster some years ago??? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Center section wing bolt alignment
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 27, 2014
I had QB wings with legacy fuselage and they were NOT a serial number pair, and it took very little effort to match them up. On one wing we used a lubed taper pin patted softly with rivet gun on a couple of holes, but the next time it all went really well. I too had to file a little on the outer sandwich plate on a couple of holes. Sometimes I think it is kind of an optical illusion when they appear misaligned. At one point in final assembly we thought we had a misalignment, until we rembembered that they had already been together once. Just a guy moving the wingtip slightly seems to make a significant difference in the alignment of the holes. I never touched the factory bolts until the day they went in for good. We froze and lubed them, but they went in with very little rubber mallet encouragement. Most went in with just finger pressure. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=434838#434838 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Center section wing bolt alignment
From: Rich Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com>
Date: Nov 27, 2014
Jesse, I see your point. Also I see that my comments dont even apply since I obviously didnt read into the problem well enough. The problem appears to present itself with the bolts not aligning (wont go through the fore and aft holes) before the wing is even attached. Therefore only your comments and ideas apply here. And, I cant come up with any other scenario other than what you said: shipping damage or disfigurement during transportation, riveting done without alignment bolts installed to begin with, etc Rich > > > Subject: RV10-List: Center section wing bolt alignment > From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> > > In preparation for attaching my QB wings I tried a trial insertion of the > NAS bolts into the two halves of the center carrythrough in the QB > fuselage. The pilot side holes are lined up and bolts fit snuggly. > Passenger side the holes have at least a 1/16" vertical misallignment that > would prevent getting the bolts in regardless of force applied. > Have others run into this and come up with a solution? I have email drafted > to go to Van's for their solution, but some how I doubt I have the only > quick built that isn't just right. > Kelly > 95% done, 95% to do. > > _ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just Two Days Left! - Still Behind...
Dear Listers, There are just two more days left in this years List Fund Raiser. We are still way behind last year in terms of the number of contributions and total contribution amount. I really want to keep providing these services to the homebuilt community, but it take resources. Since there's no advertising budget or deep pockets to keep the operation a float, its solely your generosity during the Fund Raiser that keeps things going. Please make a Contribution today. If you've been putting off showing your support for the Lists, now is the time to do it! Make a contribution with a Credit Card or though PayPal at that Matronics Contribution web site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a check in the mail: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming Soon!
Dear Listers, There's just two more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means the List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Yaw Damper
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Nov 30, 2014
I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those flying, is this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in turbulence enough to justify the yaw damper? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
From: David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 30, 2014
With out a doubt. No. I sometimes feel a tiny tail waggle after a bit of turbulence when loaded very after CG, but even then it is very brief and does not continue. Dave Leikam > On Nov 30, 2014, at 7:28 AM, bob88 wrote: > > > I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those flying, is this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in turbulence enough to justify the yaw damper? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
Date: Nov 30, 2014
A yaw damper is not needed. It does improve the stability, but very few -10's have yaw dampers and most will say that it is fine without. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Nov 30, 2014, at 8:28 AM, bob88 wrote: > > > I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those flying, is this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in turbulence enough to justify the yaw damper? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2014
From: David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
No need IMHO. The -10 is a very stable plane. ----- Original Message ----- From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 8:28:29 AM Subject: RV10-List: Yaw Damper I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those flying, is this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in turbulence enough to justify the yaw damper? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2014
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again - 51, so don't reminde me! :-) But it also means that it's that last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about picking up one of those really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!! If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting it off for some reason, NOW is the time! I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want to be known as a person that supported the Lists! I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running and I don't ever forget it. The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making your Contribution right now: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you to all in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Yaw Damper
Date: Nov 30, 2014
As others have said, it's not "needed", but those who have them will tell you it sure is "nice", especially when you basically get free rudder trim out of the deal. It also depends on where/how you fly (and how the plane is loaded obviously) and who is in the back seat. Front seat folks will rarely notice the waggle, and well heeled small airplane passengers in the back also won't really notice, but if you have folks who are either not accustomed to small aircraft or prone to not liking the slight waggle that you occasionally get, then it's a nice addition. I've seen several dozen of these installed, and yet to hear a complaint from those using them....but as previously mentioned (like many things in the planes), it's not a "must have", but it is a "nice to have". Kind of like Heated Seats for some of us! :) Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 7:28 AM Subject: RV10-List: Yaw Damper I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those flying, is this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in turbulence enough to justify the yaw damper? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
From: "RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM" <rv10(at)texasrv10.com>
Date: Nov 30, 2014
Wife wants it. I have it, not installed yet. Stein describes the reasons perfectly. Gaylon Koenning > On Nov 30, 2014, at 1:48 PM, Stein Bruch wrote: > > > As others have said, it's not "needed", but those who have them will tell > you it sure is "nice", especially when you basically get free rudder trim > out of the deal. It also depends on where/how you fly (and how the plane is > loaded obviously) and who is in the back seat. Front seat folks will rarely > notice the waggle, and well heeled small airplane passengers in the back > also won't really notice, but if you have folks who are either not > accustomed to small aircraft or prone to not liking the slight waggle that > you occasionally get, then it's a nice addition. > > I've seen several dozen of these installed, and yet to hear a complaint from > those using them....but as previously mentioned (like many things in the > planes), it's not a "must have", but it is a "nice to have". Kind of like > Heated Seats for some of us! :) > > Cheers, > Stein > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 > Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 7:28 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Yaw Damper > > > I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those flying, is > this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in turbulence > enough to justify the yaw damper? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2014
Subject: New Engine Questions
From: Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com>
Hi everyone, hope you had a great Thanksgiving. Our engine came in last week, and I have a few questions that I cannot seem to find answers to. 1) What torque should the Engine Mount Ears be attached with? The closest I have found is in the Lycoming Service Table of Limits; and the best I can determine is 30 Ft.Lbs. Can anyone verify? 2) The engine ships with preservation oil, and the procedure calls for you to tilt the engine side to side to drain the oil out of the bottom plugs. Being as though it may be another year before I actually start the engine up, should I leave the preservation oil in and worry about emptying it closer to first start up? Or should I empty it now where I do have the ability of tilting it side to side on the engine hoist, and put the first batch of lubrication oil in? What have others done? 3) Van's sent me Lycoming Service Instruction 1435; conversion from fixed pitch to constant speed prop. Am I correct to assume that the stock IO-540 from Lycoming is already set up for constant speed? Or is this something we all have to do to convert it from fixed pitch? 4) Slick Start Magneto Booster - Is this thing really worth $800? Anyone out there have experience with and without the booster? 5) A little off topic; but propellers. I wanted to go 3 bladed, because I love the comfort and smoothness 3 blades gives you over 2 bladed props. I chose the MT over the Hartzell propeller, mainly because it was $5k cheaper. Is this a decision I am going to regret later? Anyone have any experience with both MT and Hartzell, any input? Thanks! -- Vernon Franklin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: New Engine Questions
Date: Nov 30, 2014
I'll reply below. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2014, at 6:02 PM, Vernon Franklin w rote: > > Hi everyone, hope you had a great Thanksgiving. > > Our engine came in last week, and I have a few questions that I cannot see m to find answers to. > > 1) What torque should the Engine Mount Ears be attached with? The closest I have found is in the Lycoming Service Table of Limits; and the best I can determine is 30 Ft.Lbs. Can anyone verify? That sounds right, but go with the steel but to steel studs torque value. So me of those nuts are really hard to get a good grip on to tighten. > > 2) The engine ships with preservation oil, and the procedure calls for you to tilt the engine side to side to drain the oil out of the bottom plugs. B eing as though it may be another year before I actually start the engine up, should I leave the preservation oil in and worry about emptying it closer t o first start up? Or should I empty it now where I do have the ability of t ilting it side to side on the engine hoist, and put the first batch of lubri cation oil in? What have others done? I'd leave it. Make sure not to turn the crankshaft at all until you are clos e to being ready to run it. You don't absolutely need to get every drop of o il out. You can just drain it and add new oil to run. Also, you want to have a quickdrain on hand when you are ready to oil the engine so you can replac e the plug with it. > > 3) Van's sent me Lycoming Service Instruction 1435; conversion from fixed p itch to constant speed prop. Am I correct to assume that the stock IO-540 f rom Lycoming is already set up for constant speed? Or is this something we a ll have to do to convert it from fixed pitch? It should be set up for constant speed, but will probably have a crankshaft f ront plug it to seal the steel. When you pull it out (later), make sure the a ft plug is in (about 6 inches back from the front plug) and you're good to g o. > > 4) Slick Start Magneto Booster - Is this thing really worth $800? Anyone o ut there have experience with and without the booster? If you don't have an impulse coupled mag, you need the slick start. For some reason engines from Van's don't come stock with impulse coupled mags. > > 5) A little off topic; but propellers. I wanted to go 3 bladed, because I love the comfort and smoothness 3 blades gives you over 2 bladed props. I c hose the MT over the Hartzell propeller, mainly because it was $5k cheaper. Is this a decision I am going to regret later? Anyone have any experience w ith both MT and Hartzell, any input? The Hartzell composite prop is a little slower than the MT, although it is m uch sexier. The nicest looking 3-blade, IMHO, is the whirlwind. Next is the a ero composite (not in production any more, but available used for good price , contact me off list about one). The Hartzell is nice, but the blades are r eally fat. The MT is, IMHO, the least desirable based on looks, and possibly based on durability. All 3-blade props are more work than the Hartzell 2-bl ade, mainly due to the difficulty of removing the bottom cowl. Also, the met al blades are more durable and nick-resistant than composite blades. The 2-b lade is at least as fast as the fastest 3-blade, if not faster. > > Thanks! > > -- > Vernon Franklin > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New Engine Questions
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Nov 30, 2014
1. I don't have my engine manual handy, cannot answer. 2. By all means, leave the preservation oil in. But the cylinders may be full of oil, do not rotate the prop/crankshaft. When ready to run, pull all plugs, rotate the crank, oil will come out the bottom plug holes and make a mess. 3. My Vans engine came with the plug in the crank for fixed pitch, I had to pull it. Yours may be different. If you have it the plug is just an inch or two in from the flange 4. The standard engine from Vans does not have impulse mags. Just one with a retard mag. I would say the Slick start is necessary. With a good battery it might start without the Slickstart but you risk kickback if you don't use the retard feature. 5. Props. Well, you stated the reasons why you want to spend more to go slower (compared to a two blade). For sure, modify the lower cowl by extending the nose gear slot further forward (re-attachable with screws) so you can get the lower cowl off with a three blade in the way. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435187#435187 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LEON EVERETT <leeverett(at)msn.com>
Subject: New Engine Questions
Date: Nov 30, 2014
I have a comment about the prop. I have the 2 blade Hartzell and my friend Dan in the same hangar has the MT 3 blade. I have the stock IO 540 and he has the tuned air induction engine-probably 15 HP more. We have conducted n on scientific tests. On a climb to 1000 feet he is a hundred feet ahead of me. In a cruise same mp and rpm I Am about 7 kts faster. The biggest proble m I see with the 3 blade in that you have to pull the tail almost to the fl oor to remove the bottom cowl. Both good props though. Leon Everett Date: Sun=2C 30 Nov 2014 17:02:05 -0600 Subject: RV10-List: New Engine Questions From: vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com Hi everyone=2C hope you had a great Thanksgiving. Our engine came in last week=2C and I have a few questions that I cannot se em to find answers to. 1) What torque should the Engine Mount Ears be attached with? The closest I have found is in the Lycoming Service Table of Limits=3B and the best I c an determine is 30 Ft.Lbs. Can anyone verify? 2) The engine ships with preservation oil=2C and the procedure calls for yo u to tilt the engine side to side to drain the oil out of the bottom plugs. Being as though it may be another year before I actually start the engine up=2C should I leave the preservation oil in and worry about emptying it c loser to first start up? Or should I empty it now where I do have the abil ity of tilting it side to side on the engine hoist=2C and put the first bat ch of lubrication oil in? What have others done? 3) Van's sent me Lycoming Service Instruction 1435=3B conversion from fixed pitch to constant speed prop. Am I correct to assume that the stock IO-54 0 from Lycoming is already set up for constant speed? Or is this something we all have to do to convert it from fixed pitch? 4) Slick Start Magneto Booster - Is this thing really worth $800? Anyone o ut there have experience with and without the booster? 5) A little off topic=3B but propellers. I wanted to go 3 bladed=2C becaus e I love the comfort and smoothness 3 blades gives you over 2 bladed props. I chose the MT over the Hartzell propeller=2C mainly because it was $5k c heaper. Is this a decision I am going to regret later? Anyone have any ex perience with both MT and Hartzell=2C any input? Thanks! -- Vernon Franklin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: New Engine Questions
Date: Nov 30, 2014
See below. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2014, at 7:13 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > > 1. I don't have my engine manual handy, cannot answer. > 2. By all means, leave the preservation oil in. But the cylinders may be full of oil, do not rotate the prop/crankshaft. When ready to run, pull all plugs, rotate the crank, oil will come out the bottom plug holes and make a mess. Then fill with new oil and crank with the plugs out until you get oil pressure before going to fire the first time. > 3. My Vans engine came with the plug in the crank for fixed pitch, I had to pull it. Yours may be different. If you have it the plug is just an inch or two in from the flange There are two plug locations, one for fixed pitch and one for constant speed. The Van's engine comes with both plugs in, so you pull the front one for constant speed. If you want fixed pitch, you have to pull the front plug, remove or punch a hole in the rear plug, the put a new front plug in. > 4. The standard engine from Vans does not have impulse mags. Just one with a retard mag. I would say the Slick start is necessary. With a good battery it might start without the Slickstart but you risk kickback if you don't use the retard feature. It will start fine cold and with a great battery, but hot start will likely not fire. Ask me how I know. > 5. Props. Well, you stated the reasons why you want to spend more to go slower (compared to a two blade). For sure, modify the lower cowl by extending the nose gear slot further forward (re-attachable with screws) so you can get the lower cowl off with a three blade in the way. Amen to the 2-blade, brother! > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435187#435187 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: New Engine Questions
Date: Nov 30, 2014
The scientific way to test is to trade props and do the same test. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2014, at 7:26 PM, LEON EVERETT wrote: > > I have a comment about the prop. I have the 2 blade Hartzell and my friend Dan in the same hangar has the MT 3 blade. I have the stock IO 540 and he h as the tuned air induction engine-probably 15 HP more. We have conducted non scientific tests. On a climb to 1000 feet he is a hundred feet ahead of me. In a cruise same mp and rpm I Am about 7 kts faster. The biggest problem I s ee with the 3 blade in that you have to pull the tail almost to the floor to remove the bottom cowl. Both good props though. > Leon Everett > > Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 17:02:05 -0600 > Subject: RV10-List: New Engine Questions > From: vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Hi everyone, hope you had a great Thanksgiving. > > Our engine came in last week, and I have a few questions that I cannot see m to find answers to. > > 1) What torque should the Engine Mount Ears be attached with? The closest I have found is in the Lycoming Service Table of Limits; and the best I can determine is 30 Ft.Lbs. Can anyone verify? > > 2) The engine ships with preservation oil, and the procedure calls for you to tilt the engine side to side to drain the oil out of the bottom plugs. B eing as though it may be another year before I actually start the engine up, should I leave the preservation oil in and worry about emptying it closer t o first start up? Or should I empty it now where I do have the ability of t ilting it side to side on the engine hoist, and put the first batch of lubri cation oil in? What have others done? > > 3) Van's sent me Lycoming Service Instruction 1435; conversion from fixed p itch to constant speed prop. Am I correct to assume that the stock IO-540 f rom Lycoming is already set up for constant speed? Or is this something we a ll have to do to convert it from fixed pitch? > > 4) Slick Start Magneto Booster - Is this thing really worth $800? Anyone o ut there have experience with and without the booster? > > 5) A little off topic; but propellers. I wanted to go 3 bladed, because I love the comfort and smoothness 3 blades gives you over 2 bladed props. I c hose the MT over the Hartzell propeller, mainly because it was $5k cheaper. Is this a decision I am going to regret later? Anyone have any experience w ith both MT and Hartzell, any input? > > Thanks! > > -- > Vernon Franklin > > > et=_blank>www.aeroelectric.com > ks.com" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com > rget=_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com > rget=_blank>www.mypilotstore.com > =_blank>www.mrrace.com > rget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ist" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ank>http://forums.matronics.com > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New Engine Questions
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Nov 30, 2014
Jesse is correct, of course. I've read one A-B comparison here: RV10 owner had a 3 blade MT, had to send it back for repair (FOD), got a 2 blade loaner. 2 blade was faster (I forget the numbers) enough he was looking to sell the repaired MT. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435192#435192 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 2014
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Does anyone know if there is a stand alone yaw damper or one compatible with the Dynon Skyview system? On Sun, Nov 30, 2014 at 2:51 PM, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM wrote: > > Wife wants it. I have it, not installed yet. Stein describes the reasons > perfectly. > > Gaylon Koenning > > > > On Nov 30, 2014, at 1:48 PM, Stein Bruch wrote: > > > > > > As others have said, it's not "needed", but those who have them will tell > > you it sure is "nice", especially when you basically get free rudder trim > > out of the deal. It also depends on where/how you fly (and how the > plane is > > loaded obviously) and who is in the back seat. Front seat folks will > rarely > > notice the waggle, and well heeled small airplane passengers in the back > > also won't really notice, but if you have folks who are either not > > accustomed to small aircraft or prone to not liking the slight waggle > that > > you occasionally get, then it's a nice addition. > > > > I've seen several dozen of these installed, and yet to hear a complaint > from > > those using them....but as previously mentioned (like many things in the > > planes), it's not a "must have", but it is a "nice to have". Kind of like > > Heated Seats for some of us! :) > > > > Cheers, > > Stein > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 > > Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 7:28 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV10-List: Yaw Damper > > > > > > I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those > flying, is > > this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in > turbulence > > enough to justify the yaw damper? > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
Date: Dec 01, 2014
Not that I am aware of. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 1, 2014, at 9:49 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Does anyone know if there is a stand alone yaw damper or one compatible wi th the Dynon Skyview system? > >> On Sun, Nov 30, 2014 at 2:51 PM, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM w rote: > >> >> Wife wants it. I have it, not installed yet. Stein describes the reasons p erfectly. >> >> Gaylon Koenning >> >> >> > On Nov 30, 2014, at 1:48 PM, Stein Bruch wrote: >> > >> > >> > As others have said, it's not "needed", but those who have them will te ll >> > you it sure is "nice", especially when you basically get free rudder tr im >> > out of the deal. It also depends on where/how you fly (and how the pla ne is >> > loaded obviously) and who is in the back seat. Front seat folks will ra rely >> > notice the waggle, and well heeled small airplane passengers in the bac k >> > also won't really notice, but if you have folks who are either not >> > accustomed to small aircraft or prone to not liking the slight waggle t hat >> > you occasionally get, then it's a nice addition. >> > >> > I've seen several dozen of these installed, and yet to hear a complaint from >> > those using them....but as previously mentioned (like many things in th e >> > planes), it's not a "must have", but it is a "nice to have". Kind of li ke >> > Heated Seats for some of us! :) >> > >> > Cheers, >> > Stein >> > >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 >> > Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 7:28 AM >> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> > Subject: RV10-List: Yaw Damper >> > >> > >> > I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those flyin g, is >> > this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in turbule nce >> > enough to justify the yaw damper? >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > Read this topic online here: >> > >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> ========== >> et="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com >> sbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com >> rget="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com >> rget="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com >> ="_blank">www.mrrace.com >> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> le, List Admin. >> ========== >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> ">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Yaw Damper
Date: Dec 01, 2014
At the moment I think TruTrak and Garmin have the only systems available, and neither as standalone as far as I know. Cheers, Stein From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 8:49 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Yaw Damper Does anyone know if there is a stand alone yaw damper or one compatible with the Dynon Skyview system? On Sun, Nov 30, 2014 at 2:51 PM, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM wrote: Wife wants it. I have it, not installed yet. Stein describes the reasons perfectly. Gaylon Koenning > On Nov 30, 2014, at 1:48 PM, Stein Bruch wrote: > > > As others have said, it's not "needed", but those who have them will tell > you it sure is "nice", especially when you basically get free rudder trim > out of the deal. It also depends on where/how you fly (and how the plane is > loaded obviously) and who is in the back seat. Front seat folks will rarely > notice the waggle, and well heeled small airplane passengers in the back > also won't really notice, but if you have folks who are either not > accustomed to small aircraft or prone to not liking the slight waggle that > you occasionally get, then it's a nice addition. > > I've seen several dozen of these installed, and yet to hear a complaint from > those using them....but as previously mentioned (like many things in the > planes), it's not a "must have", but it is a "nice to have". Kind of like > Heated Seats for some of us! :) > > Cheers, > Stein > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 > Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 7:28 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Yaw Damper > > > I noticed that Garmin has a yaw damper for the -10 now. For those flying, is > this needed? Is the plane unstable in yaw axis or dutch roll in turbulence > enough to justify the yaw damper? > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435088#435088 > > ========== et="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com sbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com rget="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com rget="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com ="_blank">www.mrrace.com ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution le, List Admin. ========== target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== ">http://forums.matronics.com ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Dec 02, 2014
I have never noticed the need for a yaw damper, but it's very rare that my back seats are occupied. My wife much prefers the heated seats, same here. Besides, I'm a little more nose heavy that most, which would reduce the issue. Nice to see that manufacturers are paying attention to the experimental market.... John -------- #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435232#435232 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
Date: Dec 02, 2014
Being involved with the RV-10 for over 8 years now. I have never seen or heard of anyone other than Trutrak that ever had a yaw damper installed. This has been a discussion many times at Oshkosh RV-10 Headquarters and other RV get together. I have yet to know anyone has that installed one. The consensus was it was not a needed Item at all and would be a waste of money. This was from most people that had been flying their 10's for at least a year or more. I would be interested to hear how many people actually have the Trutrak or some other yaw damper installed in the RV-10. Since Garmin just came out with theirs I would say only a few Garmin have been installed in aircraft for testing. Just Curious Geoff Combs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 9:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Yaw Damper --> I have never noticed the need for a yaw damper, but it's very rare that my back seats are occupied. My wife much prefers the heated seats, same here. Besides, I'm a little more nose heavy that most, which would reduce the issue. Nice to see that manufacturers are paying attention to the experimental market.... John -------- #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435232#435232 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2014
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
I haven't heard of many either, but I'll add my comments I guess. Personally, I would not spend the money and add the weight. It's not something that you NEED on an RV-10, but, I do notice in turbulence that it can wag it's tail. I just use my feet then to keep it more stable. But, if you have the one in a hundred wives who just can't stand any waggle, then it is something you may be interested in trying. So, while I would never justify it for myself, and I would never recommend someone buy it BEFORE they fly their RV-10 for a while, I can see that there may be the occasional person who could benefit from it. So, if you think you need it, after flying, go ahead. If you're not flying yet, I'd say hold off and gather some good experience first. Tim On 12/2/2014 2:21 PM, Geoff Combs wrote: > > Being involved with the RV-10 for over 8 years now. I have never seen or > heard of anyone other than > Trutrak that ever had a yaw damper installed. This has been a discussion > many times at Oshkosh RV-10 > Headquarters and other RV get together. I have yet to know anyone has that > installed one. The consensus was it was not a needed > Item at all and would be a waste of money. This was from most people that > had been flying their 10's for at least a year or more. > I would be interested to hear how many people actually have the Trutrak or > some other yaw damper installed in the RV-10. > Since Garmin just came out with theirs I would say only a few Garmin have > been installed in aircraft for testing. > > Just Curious > Geoff Combs > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman > Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 9:49 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Yaw Damper > > --> > > I have never noticed the need for a yaw damper, but it's very rare that my > back seats are occupied. My wife much prefers the heated seats, same here. > Besides, I'm a little more nose heavy that most, which would reduce the > issue. > Nice to see that manufacturers are paying attention to the experimental > market.... > John > > -------- > #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435232#435232 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 03, 2014
If I were building again and Dynon had an option that was equivelent in cost to combined electric rudder and aileron trim, I would do it, and just delete the aileron trim which hasn't proved necessary. I see the value of the damper products in the trim feature (which is useful) and not the damper. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435264#435264 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 03, 2014
Related question: If one has the Garmin aileron servo, is the Van's aileron trim needed? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435269#435269 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Re: Yaw Damper
Date: Dec 03, 2014
While the autopilot is engages, it "could" probably be used to trim the airplane, but that's not a good way to do things - it's better to have the stand alone trim and either then let the A/P trim it for you, or manually trim the plane so that the forces on the control surfaces are neutral (at least from a flight control rigging standpoint). Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 2:04 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Yaw Damper Related question: If one has the Garmin aileron servo, is the Van's aileron trim needed? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435269#435269 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2014
Subject: Latest Parking brake victim
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Less than 24 hours after bleeding my brakes I was seeing a drip or two from the infamous Matco parking brake, even though I have only applied foot pressure to the brake pedals for less than 10 seconds total. Any body got a mechanically competent, slightly malnourished 10 yr old for rent? ;-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
From: David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Latest Parking brake victim
Been there and done that. Not a fun job and most definitely painful on the back. I removed both front seats and control sticks. Put down some pillows and and blankets which helped a little After dissection of the valve, I found some machining chips in mine that cut into a O ring which made it leak. The valve shaft left a lot to be desired also. I polished up the rough spots on the shaft, cleaned out the valve and reassembled with a new O ring kit. No leaks since. Good luck. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, December 4, 2014 11:08:38 PM Subject: RV10-List: Latest Parking brake victim Less than 24 hours after bleeding my brakes I was seeing a drip or two from the infamous Matco parking brake, even though I have only applied foot pressure to the brake pedals for less than 10 seconds total. Any body got a mechanically competent, slightly malnourished 10 yr old for rent? ;-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Red cube fire sleeve
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2014
I bought a piece of the largest Aeroquip Sleeve i could find which is a -24 and is a little too tight to get on. What are others using to heat protect the cube? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435359#435359 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
Here's what I used. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/gbfireslvft.php -Sean #40303 (cleaning up dust from fitting main wheel pants) > rvdave > December 5, 2014 at 7:32 AM > > I bought a piece of the largest Aeroquip Sleeve i could find which is > a -24 and is a little too tight to get on. What are others using to > heat protect the cube? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2014
Duh! How easy is that -- surely overlooked seeing the obvious. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435365#435365 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
Subject: Plasma III - Cooling Port
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and ordering parts. Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plasma III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation. The question above is the most important one... But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provide reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, etc) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred dollars to Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
The flat, square, computer fans won't be much good since they don't produce much pressure .... they're made to move the hot air away from a spot source. However, you can get 12V squirrel cage fans ..... used on larger computers .... on EBAY .... search '12v squirrel cage fan'. Linn On 12/5/2014 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: > Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and > ordering parts. > > Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed > Plasma III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their > documentation. > > The question above is the most important one... > > But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to > provide reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, > Digikey, etc) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few > hundred dollars to Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. > > Phil > > > * > > > * > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Latest Parking brake victim
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2014
Here's a recap of my experience: Getting home was a trick because I could only turn right on the ground, but figured that the home ramp was big enough to do a right 270 if I needed to go left. Thankfully, it worked out. This morning I did one of the most physically challenging things of the entire build which was worm myself under the panel around the stick and prop up on a kidney braced with a rib with both arms intertwined into the cables and rudder pedals, disregarding the sweat and brake fluid seeping into my eyes, to remove the lines from the devil spawned valve and join the cable ends together with spare male male through wall fittings I just happened to have . Luckily with both legs extended scorpion tail style out the door opening I was able to move the one that still had bloodflow as a counterbalance to my twisted spine. Expecting a friend coming by I get a phone call so I manage to flex my man boob enough to push my phone up high enough to pluck the phone out of my shirt pocket with my teeth and drop it on the footwell floor. The caller ID says Van's, so I contort enough to tap answer with my elbow only to be asked by Van's Chevrolet in Scottsdale if it was a convenient time to discuss my future automotive needs. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435371#435371 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
Date: Dec 05, 2014
Those would also make good defrost fans....and all the time they'll help to k eep the hot air from under your panel vented. > On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:41 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > > The flat, square, computer fans won't be much good since they don't produc e much pressure .... they're made to move the hot air away from a spot sourc e. However, you can get 12V squirrel cage fans ..... used on larger compute rs .... on EBAY .... search '12v squirrel cage fan'. > Linn > >> On 12/5/2014 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: >> Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and orderin g parts. >> >> Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plasm a III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation. >> >> The question above is the most important one... >> >> But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way t o provide reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Dig ikey, etc) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred d ollars to Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. >> >> Phil >> >> >> >> >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> 12/05/14 >> > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
Date: Dec 05, 2014
I've got a pair of those mounted in the glareshield. But I'm still putting a blower (think cage type) on the Plasma III box. I'l l probably get a 3 port version and put one on the ignition box, and use the other two for indirectly blowing air on other items expensive items like GT N-750 and similar. Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 5, 2014, at 12:09 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Those would also make good defrost fans....and all the time they'll help t o keep the hot air from under your panel vented. > > > >> On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:41 AM, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> The flat, square, computer fans won't be much good since they don't produ ce much pressure .... they're made to move the hot air away from a spot sour ce. However, you can get 12V squirrel cage fans ..... used on larger comput ers .... on EBAY .... search '12v squirrel cage fan'. >> Linn >> >>> On 12/5/2014 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: >>> Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and orderi ng parts. >>> >>> Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plas ma III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation . >>> >>> The question above is the most important one... >>> >>> But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provid e reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, D igikey, etc) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundre d dollars to Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> No virus found in this message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>> 12/05/14 >>> > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2014
I'm not sure of the wisdom or the science of firesleeving the red cube especially if it is mounted downstream of the fuel control unit fuel shut off as the manufacturer recommends. My two-year-old cube seeped for the first few weeks after we put fuel to it and then the gasket swelled and sealed itself but I like to have it open for inspection and it seems to me that if it did leak the sleeve would just amass the fuel. The unit does self cool from the fuel flow. What am I missing? -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435375#435375 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
Where most folks are mounting, in front of the sump and near the fuel servo, is upwind of most exhaust pipes and anything else really hot. I too do not see the point of firesleeving the cube. I've had one on my Mooney for about 6 years without firesleeve. Don't recall anything in the STC instructions calling for it. In fact, the STC called for installation between the mechanical pump and the fuel servo, which works, but is higher pressure than after the servo in the line to the flow divider. On 12/5/2014 1:46 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > I'm not sure of the wisdom or the science of firesleeving the red cube especially if it is mounted downstream of the fuel control unit fuel shut off as the manufacturer recommends. My two-year-old cube seeped for the first few weeks after we put fuel to it and then the gasket swelled and sealed itself but I like to have it open for inspection and it seems to me that if it did leak the sleeve would just amass the fuel. The unit does self cool from the fuel flow. > > What am I missing? > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Flew May 10 2014 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435375#435375 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2014
In my case my lycoming came set up with the fuel line from rear of airflow performance servo up through bottom baffle between cyl 1/3 . I split the line to mount red cube where it would fit. It's close to the exhaust enough where I feel better about shielding it as much as possible from heat. It's near the combined part of thei pipe so I can't put a heat shield on the pipe. https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/home/fuel%20flow I've removed the bracket I had made so now it's actually closer to 3 intake pipe -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435384#435384 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com>
Can't you but fire sleeve in sheets? Just roll it around the red cube a couple of times and secure with ss hose clamps. I seem to remember having to do that on my p-180 when I installed the fuel flow sensor on it SH On Dec 5, 2014 6:16 PM, "rvdave" wrote: > > In my case my lycoming came set up with the fuel line from rear of airflow > performance servo up through bottom baffle between cyl 1/3 . I split the > line to mount red cube where it would fit. It's close to the exhaust > enough where I feel better about shielding it as much as possible from > heat. It's near the combined part of thei pipe so I can't put a heat > shield on the pipe. > > > https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/home/fuel%20flow > I've removed the bracket I had made so now it's actually closer to 3 > intake pipe > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435384#435384 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com>
Subject: Antisplataero gust lock review
Date: Dec 05, 2014
I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post93941 4 As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
From: "RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM" <rv10(at)texasrv10.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2014
It's easy Phil just order the EFII system because you don't need a cooling p ort. Sorry couldn't resist it! Gaylon Koenning..... With your control sticks still 200 nm away from you. > On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:11 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and ordering parts. > > Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plasma III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation. > > The question above is the most important one... > > But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provide r eliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, etc) b lower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred dollars to A ircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. > > Phil > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Nor does the ElectroAir system. Not to mention the G3 system. On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 6:23 PM, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM wrote: > It's easy Phil just order the EFII system because you don't need a cooling > port. Sorry couldn't resist it! > > Gaylon Koenning..... > With your control sticks still 200 nm away from you. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
On 12/5/2014 1:09 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > Those would also make good defrost fans....and all the time they'll > help to keep the hot air from under your panel vented. Most modern avionics do not produce much heat at all so the defrost fans might need some cabin heat to work effectively. It doesn't get much colder than freezing down in FL for the most part and the cabin heat looks like it will function nicely at -40 :-P . What say you guys in the frozen north ....... Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
From: "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2014
I installed a Cyclone 21 avionics fan (PN CRB-6457) which I believe Stein carries (below). The other ports provide forced cooling to my radio stack. Simple design and well worth the $. http://www.steinair.com/SearchResults.cfm?key=fan Sorry I don't recall the tube diameter used on the LSE cooling ports. But... do recall sourcing the tubing from the A/C section of the local Lowes. Cheers, Jay 433RV flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435394#435394 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Hey Phil, don't you have a G750 with it's own fan? I have 2 5" computer type fans in the upper fuse which should be all sorts of cooling (along with my G650). Unless you have a 430W/530W you shouldn't need Steins fan,......or am I missing something? Rick On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: > Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and ordering > parts. > > Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plasma > III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation. > > The question above is the most important one... > > But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provide > reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, > etc) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred > dollars to Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. > > Phil > > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
From: Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Dec 06, 2014
+1 more for Robert Paisley's EFII. What a great system! As far as avionics blowers go, Twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=84&products_id=630 Have you considered two naca vents? One on either side with a valve to shut t he flow off if needed would probably be more cooling than you would ever nee d. It's a much lighter and less complex approach too. Justin > On Dec 6, 2014, at 04:23, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM wrote: > > It's easy Phil just order the EFII system because you don't need a cooling port. Sorry couldn't resist it! > > Gaylon Koenning..... > With your control sticks still 200 nm away from you. > > >> On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:11 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: >> >> Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and orderin g parts. >> >> Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plasm a III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation. >> >> The question above is the most important one... >> >> But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provide reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, etc ) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred dollars t o Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. >> >> Phil >> >> >> >> >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com >> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com >> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com >> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com >> ">www.mrrace.com >> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> //forums.matronics.com >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
Date: Dec 05, 2014
I remember some of my initial flights were on 10F degree days up here and wi th the cabin heat on, the under panel temp was well over 100F, so with cabin heat and a pair of blowers on the glareshield it defrosts....not fast but e nough. Thanksgiving day this year I went flying and during our ground warmu p (it was under 10F) the 4 of us fogged the windows so bad they were almost c ompletely fogged over, but where the blowers were it was clear in a couple 8 -10" circles. After takeoff and the hotter engine heat we cleared the whole front and side front windows so that was better. At any rate, you definite ly want a defroster. Mine comes on with the master because summer and winte r, you may as well keep all the heat you can from staying under the glareshi eld. I run it year round. Tim > On Dec 5, 2014, at 8:26 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > >> On 12/5/2014 1:09 PM, Tim Olson wrote: >> Those would also make good defrost fans....and all the time they'll help t o keep the hot air from under your panel vented. > Most modern avionics do not produce much heat at all so the defrost fans m ight need some cabin heat to work effectively. > It doesn't get much colder than freezing down in FL for the most part and t he cabin heat looks like it will function nicely at -40 :-P . > What say you guys in the frozen north ....... > Linn > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
Date: Dec 05, 2014
I'm not sure if the 750 has an internal fan or if it just has a really large heat sink. I do know there isn't a cooling port on it. But I'm thinking, since I will have an extra blower ports available, I might direct one of the extras toward it to assist in removing heat off the heat s ink. Again, not required, but it won't hurt. The only device I have behind the panel that requires cooling is the Plasma I II. And even that is debatable if it's mounted in a cool spot (mine is on t he subpanel). Many of the earlier 6 cylinder models don't even have the po rt. On the topic of fans, I have two in the top of the upper fuse. They are si mply defoggers (not defrost - heat isn't required). So the goal is to keep a ir moving and if it will exhaust some heat from under than panel then all th e better. On a monumental building note, I think I will be doing my first power up wit h the panel temporarily wired up to the airframe on Tuesday. If it goes wel l then I can get started on the permanent installation. Very excited! It' s been a long time coming. 7.5 years to this point. :) Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:02 PM, Rick Lark wrote: > > Hey Phil, don't you have a G750 with it's own fan? I have 2 5" computer t ype fans in the upper fuse which should be all sorts of cooling (along with m y G650). Unless you have a 430W/530W you shouldn't need Steins fan,......or am I missing something? > > Rick > >> On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry wro te: >> Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and orderin g parts. >> >> Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plasm a III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation. >> >> The question above is the most important one... >> >> But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provide reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, etc ) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred dollars t o Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. >> >> Phil >> >> >> >> >> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com >> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com >> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com >> ="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com >> ank">www.mrrace.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2014
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
The 650 and 750 have tiny fans built into the back plate. Noisy little buggers. You still want some airflow behind the panel. On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 9:56 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > I'm not sure if the 750 has an internal fan or if it just has a really > large heat sink. I do know there isn't a cooling port on it. > > But I'm thinking, since I will have an extra blower ports available, I > might direct one of the extras toward it to assist in removing heat off the > heat sink. Again, not required, but it won't hurt. > > The only device I have behind the panel that requires cooling is the > Plasma III. And even that is debatable if it's mounted in a cool spot > (mine is on the subpanel). Many of the earlier 6 cylinder models don't > even have the port. > > On the topic of fans, I have two in the top of the upper fuse. They are > simply defoggers (not defrost - heat isn't required). So the goal is to > keep air moving and if it will exhaust some heat from under than panel then > all the better. > > On a monumental building note, I think I will be doing my first power up > with the panel temporarily wired up to the airframe on Tuesday. If it goes > well then I can get started on the permanent installation. Very excited! > It's been a long time coming. 7.5 years to this point. :) > > Phil > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:02 PM, Rick Lark wrote: > > Hey Phil, don't you have a G750 with it's own fan? I have 2 5" computer > type fans in the upper fuse which should be all sorts of cooling (along > with my G650). Unless you have a 430W/530W you shouldn't need Steins > fan,......or am I missing something? > > Rick > > On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry > wrote: > >> Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and >> ordering parts. >> >> Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed >> Plasma III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their >> documentation. >> >> The question above is the most important one... >> >> But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provide >> reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, >> etc) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred >> dollars to Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. >> >> Phil >> >> >> * >> >> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com> >> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com> >> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> >> ="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com> >> ank">www.mrrace.com <http://www.mrrace.com> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >> >> * >> >> > * > > D============================================ > ot;">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com> > books.com <http://books.com>"">www.buildersbooks.com > quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> > quot;">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com> > ">www.mrrace.com <http://www.mrrace.com> > ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > D============================================ > List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > D============================================ > //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> > D============================================ > > * > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
From: "RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM" <rv10(at)texasrv10.com>
Date: Dec 06, 2014
Phil, The 750 fan will be on most of the time during normal Texas operations. As o thers have mentioned concerning moving the hot air under the panel.... More c ooling certainly wouldn't hurt! Gaylon Koenning > On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:56 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I'm not sure if the 750 has an internal fan or if it just has a really lar ge heat sink. I do know there isn't a cooling port on it. > > But I'm thinking, since I will have an extra blower ports available, I mig ht direct one of the extras toward it to assist in removing heat off the hea t sink. Again, not required, but it won't hurt. > > The only device I have behind the panel that requires cooling is the Plasm a III. And even that is debatable if it's mounted in a cool spot (mine is o n the subpanel). Many of the earlier 6 cylinder models don't even have the port. > > On the topic of fans, I have two in the top of the upper fuse. They are s imply defoggers (not defrost - heat isn't required). So the goal is to keep air moving and if it will exhaust some heat from under than panel then all t he better. > > On a monumental building note, I think I will be doing my first power up w ith the panel temporarily wired up to the airframe on Tuesday. If it goes w ell then I can get started on the permanent installation. Very excited! I t's been a long time coming. 7.5 years to this point. :) > > Phil > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:02 PM, Rick Lark wrote: >> >> Hey Phil, don't you have a G750 with it's own fan? I have 2 5" computer t ype fans in the upper fuse which should be all sorts of cooling (along with m y G650). Unless you have a 430W/530W you shouldn't need Steins fan,......or am I missing something? >> >> Rick >> >>> On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry wr ote: >>> Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and orderi ng parts. >>> >>> Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plas ma III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation . >>> >>> The question above is the most important one... >>> >>> But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provid e reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, et c) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred dollars t o Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com >>> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com >>> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com >>> ="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com >>> ank">www.mrrace.com >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com >>> >> >> >> >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com >> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com >> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com >> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com >> ">www.mrrace.com >> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> //forums.matronics.com >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 06, 2014
Actually after looking at the acs firesleeve mentioned I see it's the same dimension that I have already so back to square one. I guess I'll wrap with cut pieces of sleeving and clamp. I was looking to know if anyone else had the cube in this location and their experiences with heat whether it's a factor or not. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435410#435410 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2014
From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
Dave, please take this with a grain of salt .... I'm still building ..... but from my perspective you're spending a lot of time on a solution to a problem that just doesn't exist. I can't speak to the red cube specifically, but so far I've had really good results from various flow senders mounted .... naked .... in the engine compartment. There was one failure from a sender that came with my Piper that had 1800 hours on it. That was many years ago and I'm sure technology has improved since that one was manufactured. Linn On 12/6/2014 7:51 AM, rvdave wrote: > > Actually after looking at the acs firesleeve mentioned I see it's the same dimension that I have already so back to square one. I guess I'll wrap with cut pieces of sleeving and clamp. I was looking to know if anyone else had the cube in this location and their experiences with heat whether it's a factor or not. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435410#435410 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review
Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php> It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. * IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) * and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway * and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. * THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds * and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. * And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). I should take a few pics and post but haven't. Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of > the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the > way it is today will NOT work for you. > http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html > Pascal > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 06, 2014
I have used the Bogi-Bar for 3 yrs too. [quote="Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com"]Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). I should take a few pics and post but haven't. Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414) > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html) > > Pascal > > > > [b] -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435413#435413 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2014
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review
(I'm going to repost without the bulleted list - it displayed back badly to me:) Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php> It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. - IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) - and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway - and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. - THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds. - and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. - And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). I should take a few pics and post but haven't. Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of > the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the > way it is today will NOT work for you. > http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html > Pascal > * > > > * > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Red cube fire sleeve
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 06, 2014
Linn, you're probably right--- I think just to satisfy my gut I'll wrap it and move on, thanks. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435417#435417 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review
Date: Dec 06, 2014
For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and put it up against the seat back and seat belt it down. Works great. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > > Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. > > Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for al most 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar It has a few 'ifs' as well but if th e logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. > IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of c ap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits a round those for towing and works very well) > and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Do n't know, probably will work the same anyway > and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is o ut there. > THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collap sed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. T he round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of t he standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with a n over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds > and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and B ogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If yo u leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and t he ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always ad d the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it t ouches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. > And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs t o the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secur e and fool proof. > What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bog i-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudd er pedals - go figure. > > The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - t he Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towi ng around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out ther e already who do the same thing(?). > > I should take a few pics and post but haven't. > > Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson > > >> On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: >> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http:/ /www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 >> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the s tick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is t oday will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultim ate_Gust_Lock.html >> >> Pascal > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 06, 2014
I too extend it against the seat back. belt it down. I put some Home Depot pipe insulation in the triangle of the bar that the stick goes thru. I use the other seat's seat belt to hold the sticks firmly against the Boggie bar/pipe insulation. No need to carry extra cords. I don't weld, so I used some hose clamps to hold the front tabs on. [quote="jesse(at)saintaviation.co"]For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and put it up against the seat back and seat belt it down. Works great. Jesse SaintI-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org (jesse(at)itecusa.org) www.itecusa.org (http://www.itecusa.org) www.mavericklsa.com (http://www.mavericklsa.com) C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. > > Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. > IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. > THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. > > The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). > > I should take a few pics and post but haven't. > > Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson > > > On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > > > > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414) > > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html) > > > > Pascal > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [b] -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB

October 06, 2014 - December 06, 2014

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