RV10-Archive.digest.vol-kj
December 06, 2014 - February 12, 2015
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435421#435421
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
Send it to me & I'll have it welded for you. I have been doing the towbars like
this for about 8 years. It is always with you and works great.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 6, 2014, at 12:49 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> I too extend it against the seat back. belt it down. I put some Home Depot pipe
insulation in the triangle of the bar that the stick goes thru. I use the other
seat's seat belt to hold the sticks firmly against the Boggie bar/pipe insulation.
No need to carry extra cords.
> I don't weld, so I used some hose clamps to hold the front tabs on.
>
>
> [quote="jesse(at)saintaviation.co"]For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and
put it up against the seat back and seat belt it down. Works great.
>
> Jesse SaintI-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org (jesse(at)itecusa.org)
> www.itecusa.org (http://www.itecusa.org)
> www.mavericklsa.com (http://www.mavericklsa.com)
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
>
>
>> Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'.
>>
>> Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution.
>> IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the
stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel
pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very
well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others
out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and
IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else
is out there.
>> THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and
jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat
cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar
will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the
handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind
of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you
can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar
in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If
you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the
rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like
it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim
springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction
tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches!
> the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick
is wired or booted. And IF all the above works for you, you
can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half
washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard
rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool
proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that
the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the
front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure.
>>
>> The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on
trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar
and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar
users out there already who do the same thing(?).
>>
>> I should take a few pics and post but haven't.
>>
>> Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson
>>
>>
>> On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414)
>>> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html)
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>
>> [b]
>
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435421#435421
>
>
>
>
>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Moushon <tmoushon(at)gmail.com> |
Looking down the road at what I might do to cover my glare screen. My windows are
not in. Has anyone temporally covered the glare screen with BID fiberglass
and then applied a cover to that so it is easily replaceable? Both "successes"
and "won't do that again" welcome. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
I have wild blue innovations gust buster and it works great
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 5, 2014, at 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://
www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414
> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the s
tick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is t
oday will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Loc
k.html
>
> Pascal
>
>
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare screen |
Terry, I built a fiberglass glare shield that sits above the aluminum
upper skin of the instrument panel. It provided a nice way to finish off
the sharp edge of the instrument panel with a bull nose, as well as created
a way to hide the fans I used for defrosting, and instrument cooling. The
glare shield sits 3/4 of an inch above the aluminum skin, creating a plenum
that directs the heated air from under the instrument panel up on the
windscreen. Here's a link to my build album on this topic.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102955683430141812381/albums/5508605558762046977
Bob Newman
RV-10 N541RV
TCW Technologies, LLC.
www.tcwtech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Moushon
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Glare screen
Looking down the road at what I might do to cover my glare screen. My
windows are not in. Has anyone temporally covered the glare screen with BID
fiberglass and then applied a cover to that so it is easily replaceable?
Both "successes" and "won't do that again" welcome. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glare screen |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Terry,
Take a look at the thread on this at VAF. RV10 forum. I may be at PIA either We'd
or Thurs. are you in town?
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435471#435471
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I built one form under $10 that works every bit as well as any I have seen. After two years and several windy overnights, I'm still happy. I posted it at this thread. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=94695&highlight=Gust+lock
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435477#435477
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Most interesting. Cant believe I havent thought of doing this with mine! And
Ive been carrying around my same towbar for 6 or 7 years!
Many thanks for the pictures, Jesse!
grumpy
> On Dec 7, 2014, at 8:05 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Farner <stevefarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tailcone Question- Bulkhead Holes |
Hi All- Quick Tailcone question. I am on page 10-11. I understand that
no drilling should be done on the F-1006 bulkhead until it gets attached
to the fuselage. I'm not clear if this includes the forward most hole
of the two longerons which have the bulkhead part in common, or the
forward most hole of the top stiffeners (F1047 A, B-L, B-R). Does it
make a difference either way? I'm tempted to do it now so that the
longeron can be countersunk, but wanted to check first. Thank you,
-Steve Farnerrv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question- Bulkhead Holes |
I'd recommend you read step 3 very literally and not drill anything
associated with that bulkhead for now. When the tail gets attached to
the fuselage, you match up all that stuff and do any
dimpling/countersinking in that chapter.
On 12/8/2014 5:37 PM, Steve Farner wrote:
>
> Hi All- Quick Tailcone question. I am on page 10-11. I understand
> that no drilling should be done on the F-1006 bulkhead until it gets
> attached to the fuselage. I'm not clear if this includes the forward
> most hole of the two longerons which have the bulkhead part in common,
> or the forward most hole of the top stiffeners (F1047 A, B-L, B-R).
> Does it make a difference either way? I'm tempted to do it now so
> that the longeron can be countersunk, but wanted to check first.
> Thank you, -Steve Farnerrv
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question- Bulkhead Holes |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I agree with Kelly. I found out the hard way a couple of times that one should
heed instructions that specifically say not to do something at a particular point.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435510#435510
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Farner <stevefarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question- Bulkhead Holes |
Thanks Kelly & David- To clarify, I believe I am supposed to drill the
3/32nd hole in the longeron (step #2), but hold off on the others,
including the J-channel holes on top. I'm still wondering how this
longeron hole gets countersunk at a later date if I've riveted around it.
Steve
On 12/8/2014 7:52 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote:
>
> I agree with Kelly. I found out the hard way a couple of times that one should
heed instructions that specifically say not to do something at a particular
point.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435510#435510
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heater control cables |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Is there room to install these cables after the engine is hung? Too hard to judge
the required length at this point in my build and I don't think they can be
shortened from the cabin side.
A semi-related question is whether there is need for an airflow control on the
oil cooler. If so, I have seen electric servo installation somewhere along the
line. Anyone with experience in this regard?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435513#435513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater control cables |
How much room you have to adjust the cables with the engine in place
depends on which magnetos/electronic ignition you have. It is kind of
tight with the S1200 mags I have, but most any other option is smaller.
If you have one or both mags off the engine, access would be pretty good.
On 12/8/2014 7:59 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Is there room to install these cables after the engine is hung? Too hard to judge
the required length at this point in my build and I don't think they can
be shortened from the cabin side.
>
> A semi-related question is whether there is need for an airflow control on the
oil cooler. If so, I have seen electric servo installation somewhere along the
line. Anyone with experience in this regard?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435513#435513
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater control cables |
It can be done, but it is a pain. Hard to get installed neatly.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 8, 2014, at 9:59 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
>
> Is there room to install these cables after the engine is hung? Too hard to judge
the required length at this point in my build and I don't think they can
be shortened from the cabin side.
>
> A semi-related question is whether there is need for an airflow control on the
oil cooler. If so, I have seen electric servo installation somewhere along the
line. Anyone with experience in this regard?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435513#435513
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heater Control Cables |
| From: | Rich Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
Bob,
Regarding the Heater Control Cables, I just finished installing them this past
weekend. Engine was installed with Mags in place. So, it can be done but it
will take a bit extra time as you work your way around everything (hoses, wires,
etc,) that is already in place. That said Id conclude: If you know where
your cables will be located on or around your panel and can install them go ahead
as it will be much easier with no engine in place - like 30 minutes including
cutting the cables to length as opposed to 2 hours with engine in place.
The problem is that unless you are building a sub panel for the cables that will
be attached to your instrument panel, AND will be attached from behind (meaning
forward or closer to the firewall) or under the instrument panel, you
very well may need to remove the control cables until final installation of your
instrument panel. That may be after your engine is in, so you are still struggling
with the tight quarters for cable installation, but, they would already
be cut to size etc. Study how the cable is attached at the knob end and you
will see what I mean.
If I were doing it again, Id still wait and do it one time, final, after panel
and engine is all in. The extra time you save trying to do it in advance can
be easily sucked up as you sit there stewing over where, what length, am I sure,
what if, Im not sure, I might not be able to, this could change, etc
Regarding your next question of oil cooler air control: I have heard enough comments
from flying RV-10 drivers that the temperature seems to hang around the
high 150s to low 160s in winter flight, that I added a cockpit controlled airflow
door on mine. My RV-6 had the same issue and I just fabricated a flow restrictor
for winter flight that I manually installed each winter. It worked
just fine bringing the temp back up to a nicely desired 180 degrees. The question
every year and as the seasons changed remained: what about that 3 hour flight
where you took off ambient 50 - 60 degrees then found yourself flying along
at altitude looking down at 0 degrees F, only to look over at the Oil Temp
and see 158 - 160 degrees = cringe:( Wish I had put in the restrictor! On
the 10, I want to be able to adjust that in flight!
Avery Tools has the air control door and TCW has the electronic controller if you
want to go that way too.
Hope that helps,
Rich Hansen - still finalizing, but end in sight
>
>
> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heater control cables
>
>
> How much room you have to adjust the cables with the engine in place
> depends on which magnetos/electronic ignition you have. It is kind of
> tight with the S1200 mags I have, but most any other option is smaller.
> If you have one or both mags off the engine, access would be pretty good.
>
> On 12/8/2014 7:59 PM, bob88 wrote:
>>
>> Is there room to install these cables after the engine is hung? Too hard to
judge
> the required length at this point in my build and I don't think they can
> be shortened from the cabin side.
>>
>> A semi-related question is whether there is need for an airflow control on the
> oil cooler. If so, I have seen electric servo installation somewhere along the
> line. Anyone with experience in this regard?
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435513#435513
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater control cables |
Knowing that it was possible but more of a pain once the engine is hung,
I came up with a mounting that was independent of the panel and pretty
much independent of cable length. It has worked well.
Heater cable mount on tunnel cover
<http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2223&log=62927&row=3>
It detaches easily with one screw and can easily be kept out of the way
for all the panel and cockpit work as well as for maintenance once flying.
On 12/8/2014 9:59 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Is there room to install these cables after the engine is hung? Too hard to judge
the required length at this point in my build and I don't think they can
be shortened from the cabin side.
>
> A semi-related question is whether there is need for an airflow control on the
oil cooler. If so, I have seen electric servo installation somewhere along the
line. Anyone with experience in this regard?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heater control cables |
| From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
Rich has it right. I installed the TCW oil cooler valve and it works perfectly.
The temps Rich mentioned are exactly right and its nice to be able to adjust
as needed in flight. I did it...and I would do it again. Only improvement I could
see is if it was handled automatically like your home thermostat. Set the
temp...and let the valve regulate to achieve the desired temp :)
David
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Flying!
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435555#435555
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
I photo documented my use of the Bogi-bar as a gust control lock here
<http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log 0875&row=1>
FYI.
It works for me.
Bill Watson
On 12/6/2014 9:49 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> (I'm going to repost without the bulleted list - it displayed back
> badly to me:)
>
> Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'.
>
> Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using
> for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar
> <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php> It has a
> few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a
> solution.
>
> - IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless
> heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant -
> the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well)
>
> - and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out
> there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway
>
> - and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what
> else is out there.
>
> - THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the
> collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the
> rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in
> the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into
> the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will
> stay in place in heavy winds.
>
> - and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the
> stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and
> elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most
> situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator
> doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped
> out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a
> little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is
> a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted.
>
> - And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on
> tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key
> into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the
> whole thing more secure and fool proof.
>
> What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed
> Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and
> the rudder pedals - go figure.
>
> The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips
> - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and
> hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar
> users out there already who do the same thing(?).
>
> I should take a few pics and post but haven't.
>
> Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson
>
>
> On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
>> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF.
>> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414
>> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of
>> the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer,
>> the way it is today will NOT work for you.
>> http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html
>> Pascal
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Copied from my post on VAF:
We have been doing this for a little while as we learn how to use our new machine,
but I wanted to offer this service to users of VAF somewhat commercially,
to give my daughters a way to earn some $. They are homeschooled and love to see,
so they are excited about making shirts (and jackets/sweaters) for people.
This post has been edited, but the following are what we are offering.
2. Let people send me a shirt (or shirts) of their choosing along with a digital
picture of their airplane, which I would get digitized and embroider and mail
the shirts back. The digitizing costs $8-11/picture, plus something for the
legwork, plus the embroidery. This would be the easiest for you. There would,
obviously, be some economy of scale, so doing more shirts would cost less per
shirt to embroider, and the digitizing would be paid only once. The pricing for
this option would be the digitizing fee ($8-11), $10 for doing it then the same
fee as digitizing for each embroidery. Adding the N-number in large letters
(N104LG below) would add $3/shirt and medium letter (N674BD below) would add
$2/shirt. Shipping would be actual cost plus a small fee for handling, shipped
back in the packaging that you shipped it to us in. For 2-5 shirts, there would
be a $2 discount per shirt. For more than 5, there would be a $3 discount
per shirt. You could order shirts from an online store and have them shipped to
me, or you could buy them locally and ship them. Please make sure if you order
online that your name is in the address label somewhere.
3. Let people send me a shirt as well as get their own plane picture digitized
(following a very easy format), pay the digitizing fee themselves and just pay
me a per-shirt fee for the embroidery. The best option for me and the cheapest
for you. The cost for this is the same as Option 2 above, but you save the $10
fee I charge for doing the digitizing. It's a matter of sending an email with
the picture and a couple of data points that I can email you.
You can email me picture if you want me to digitize them (option 2). A good picture
is one with good light, preferably few shadows, that included the whole plane.
Usually a side shot or a front corner shot works best. If in flight, the
side or front corner and from a little above works best. If a tailwheel and on
the ground, we can do it level or in the ground position, but it would be best
if the picture matches how you want it to show. You can also tell us you want
it in the flying position and we can rotate it appropriately.
Send the shirts to Saint Aviation, 10575 SW 147th Circle, Dunnellon, FL 34432.
I will send a bill for the total after we have the shirts done and ready to go.
If you don't pay, I get to wear your shirts, so please make sure they at XL
if you don't plan to pay. :-)
Below are some samples that we have done, including a picture that one of them
was digitized from.
[IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/jessesaint/ECE424EE-89F3-4009-BF8F-DF414D62E40B_zpsujof0jwp.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/jessesaint/12315838-BF9E-4000-9993-C1FCD325B619_zpsr9o6quue.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/jessesaint/bdea94bb66612e97e6ad5a52bc13d91b_zps33b897ff.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/jessesaint/1805325a88039e43ca9eae8263c3896e_zpsf7395315.jpg[/IMG]
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Manifold pressure with G3X |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Getting ready to hang the engine and trying to do as much as possible on the back
end first. My question relates to the Vans recommendation that the manifold
pressure line be connected to the port on cylinder #5. I have a used, overhauled
engine with the MP port on #6. The plug on #5 doesn't want to come out, at
least without extraordinary measures. So...is there a problem using #6 for the
MP line with the Garmin engine sensor system? If so, any suggestions about getting
the plug out of #5?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435587#435587
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure with G3X |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
I have a G3X and my MP is pulled off of my #6 just fine
On Thu, Dec 11, 2014 at 12:08 AM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Getting ready to hang the engine and trying to do as much as possible on
> the back end first. My question relates to the Vans recommendation that the
> manifold pressure line be connected to the port on cylinder #5. I have a
> used, overhauled engine with the MP port on #6. The plug on #5 doesn't want
> to come out, at least without extraordinary measures. So...is there a
> problem using #6 for the MP line with the Garmin engine sensor system? If
> so, any suggestions about getting the plug out of #5?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435587#435587
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure with G3X |
You can use the portion any cylinder. The port on #5 is just closer to the firewall.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 11, 2014, at 12:08 AM, bob88 wrote:
>
>
> Getting ready to hang the engine and trying to do as much as possible on the
back end first. My question relates to the Vans recommendation that the manifold
pressure line be connected to the port on cylinder #5. I have a used, overhauled
engine with the MP port on #6. The plug on #5 doesn't want to come out,
at least without extraordinary measures. So...is there a problem using #6 for
the MP line with the Garmin engine sensor system? If so, any suggestions about
getting the plug out of #5?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435587#435587
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure with G3X |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
As Jesse says, it doesn't matter between cylinders. You could just as
easily use #3. The only difference is in the length of tubing to plumb to
where ever you mount the sensor. The FF plans just show mounting MP sensor
on the right side of the firewall, but there is nothing set in stone about
where you put it. I've seen #1 used for MP on a 4 cyl Lyc for a type
certificated aircraft.
On Thu, Dec 11, 2014 at 5:03 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
>
> You can use the portion any cylinder. The port on #5 is just closer to the
> firewall.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 11, 2014, at 12:08 AM, bob88 wrote:
> >
> >
> > Getting ready to hang the engine and trying to do as much as possible on
> the back end first. My question relates to the Vans recommendation that the
> manifold pressure line be connected to the port on cylinder #5. I have a
> used, overhauled engine with the MP port on #6. The plug on #5 doesn't want
> to come out, at least without extraordinary measures. So...is there a
> problem using #6 for the MP line with the Garmin engine sensor system? If
> so, any suggestions about getting the plug out of #5?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435587#435587
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Antisplataero gust lock review |
There are cheaper but still effective gusts locks available.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I used the gustbuster for the first time yesterday. In SLC they parked me tail
to the wind and when I came back out to the airport, the winds were howling,
but the controls were nice and secure and I even noticed the designed "give" in
gusts which seems like a good idea to me.
The winds were so lively down by Mt Nebo, that for a brief moment I thought about
hooking the stick bungees back up as an autopilot supplement!
Just kidding (not really)
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435648#435648
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure with G3X |
Regarding plug removal, what tool are you using? If memory serves me correctly
it usually is just a 3/16 hex on those ports. Are you using a 3/8 drive socket
with 3/16 hex in socket? And penetrating lube of choice?
Need to know what you've done/tried for suggestions - as well as mayb a pic of
issue. Otherwise as others said don't ruin a cyl, just go for another port.....
Rich
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 12, 2014, at 12:02 AM, RV10-List Digest Server
wrote:
> ====If
>> so, any suggestions about getting the plug out of #5?
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435587#435587
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure with G3X |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Good choice for penetrating lube; 50% ATF (automatic trans fluid) and 50% acetone.
I hope that helps,
Tal
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435677#435677
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure with G3X |
----- Original Message -----
From: "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2014 7:38:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Manifold pressure with G3X
Good choice for penetrating lube; 50% ATF (automatic trans fluid) and 50% acetone.
I hope that helps,
Tal
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435677#435677
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port |
Ports on the LSEIII are 3/8". I'm using the cyclone fan below and a piece of 3/8"
ID silicone hose as a bushing to bring the port size up to a size that is
closer to the cyclone. The larger hose diameter also adds some strength to the
port on the LSE.\
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of hotwheels
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2014 8:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port
I installed a Cyclone 21 avionics fan (PN CRB-6457) which I believe Stein carries
(below). The other ports provide forced cooling to my radio stack. Simple design
and well worth the $.
http://www.steinair.com/SearchResults.cfm?key=fan
Sorry I don't recall the tube diameter used on the LSE cooling ports. But... do
recall sourcing the tubing from the A/C section of the local Lowes.
Cheers,
Jay
433RV flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435394#435394
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
After action report. I was fortunate. I did get to remove and reinstall the
parking brake twice to confirm that the only leakage from the parking brake
was from the fittings, not the valve body. So I did not have to contact
Matco or do anything special with the valve.
By the time I am done, I will have redone every pipe fitting fitting in my
brake system with aviation pipe thread sealant, and ensured all flare
fittings have proper torque. 3 flare fittings required the DEL seals sold
by Spruce. (well, looked like it was needed and I wasn't going to screw
around with them with multiple tests, so went with belt and suspenders
attack that worked).
Very few fittings had significant leaks, but because they are on interior
and I don't want a future mess, I corrected any fitting with even a hint of
a seep. I already had control sticks out for other work, so I could get my
creaky old bones under the panel okay.
On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 9:08 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Less than 24 hours after bleeding my brakes I was seeing a drip or two
> from the infamous Matco parking brake, even though I have only applied foot
> pressure to the brake pedals for less than 10 seconds total.
> Any body got a mechanically competent, slightly malnourished 10 yr old for
> rent? ;-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type thread sealants. I prefer
Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
--Dave
On Sun, Dec 14, 2014 at 6:52 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> After action report. I was fortunate. I did get to remove and reinstall
> the parking brake twice to confirm that the only leakage from the parking
> brake was from the fittings, not the valve body. So I did not have to
> contact Matco or do anything special with the valve.
> By the time I am done, I will have redone every pipe fitting fitting in my
> brake system with aviation pipe thread sealant, and ensured all flare
> fittings have proper torque. 3 flare fittings required the DEL seals sold
> by Spruce. (well, looked like it was needed and I wasn't going to screw
> around with them with multiple tests, so went with belt and suspenders
> attack that worked).
> Very few fittings had significant leaks, but because they are on interior
> and I don't want a future mess, I corrected any fitting with even a hint of
> a seep. I already had control sticks out for other work, so I could get my
> creaky old bones under the panel okay.
>
> On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 9:08 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> Less than 24 hours after bleeding my brakes I was seeing a drip or two
>> from the infamous Matco parking brake, even though I have only applied foot
>> pressure to the brake pedals for less than 10 seconds total.
>> Any body got a mechanically competent, slightly malnourished 10 yr old
>> for rent? ;-)
>>
>> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
[quote="saylor.dave(at)gmail.com"]I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type
thread sealants. I prefer Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
--Dave
/quote]
Dave, Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Number One, or Number Three? Spruce sells
both.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435735#435735
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
I use No. 3.
On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 5:23 AM, johngoodman
wrote:
>
>
> [quote="saylor.dave(at)gmail.com"]I've pretty much given up on teflon
> paste-type thread sealants. I prefer Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on
> threads these days.
>
> --Dave
> /quote]
>
> Dave, Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Number One, or Number Three? Spruce
> sells both.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435735#435735
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
On 12/15/2014 8:23 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> [quote="saylor.dave(at)gmail.com"]I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type
thread sealants. I prefer Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these
days.
>
> --Dave
> /quote]
>
> Dave, Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Number One, or Number Three? Spruce sells
both.
> John
>
I really hate to see this thread rear it's ugly head over and over.
Proper use of AN fittings should (read that word again) not require
thread sealants. If you have a leak then there's something wrong and
covering up the problem with thread sealant (to me) isn't the best
course of action.
Nowhere in AC43.12-1B does the term 'thread sealant' appear. Yeah, I
know ..... "it's experimental and I can do what I want."
Almost all of the 'thread sealant' problems I've helped 'fix' are in the
brake system ..... almost all due to sealant debris in the brake master
cylinder. It appears that some folks think "If a little thread sealant
helps, then lots if thread sealant must be better."
In Kelly's email he mentions the DEL seals for flare fittings. They're
available and acceptable to 'fix' leaking flare fittings, although they
aren't in AC43.13-1B either. Properly made and maintained, flare
fittings should not leak. But they do because they were 'over flared'
(my term) or over time the nut had been tightened by a gorilla with a
wrench trying to stop a leak. I've seen thin flares on certified and
experimentals, and even seen JB weld in there as a 'fix'.
Don't misunderstand me. I used to 'fix' stuff using whatever method was
available, but having seen what happens over time I try and correct the
problem instead of covering it up. And yes, I may still go off the deep
end trying to be creative 'fixing' when I couldn't actually fix the
problem correctly.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
Many of the flare fittings in the brake system have pipe threads on the
other end(at parking brake, at master cylinders.) It is the pipe threads
that benefit from the sealant, NOT the flare fittings, which as you say
should be nothing but clean and dry. Tubing flares are kind of like
bucked rivets. The first few efforts are really ugly and over time they
improve to acceptable to very nice. With the tubing that is fabricated
for the -10 you would need twice as much to get skilled and making
perfect flares. Fortunately Vans has you do the brake lines before the
fuel lines. Sure, I could remake some of the lines. Unfortunately, Vans
chose to supply the lowest grade tubing, and obviously some builders
chose to substitute higher quality tubing. However a buck or so for the
DEL seal accomplishes the same thing as remaking a tube, in a lot less
time and money. Some of my seeps were hardly noticeable without use of a
clean paper towel to catch the hint of red. I don't want to have to deal
with such seepage later, so I made a major effort to ensure each fitting
was perfectly dry after applying pressure to the system for over an hour
with the parking brake holding enough pressure to keep the calipers
locked. In actual use, such minor seepage would not have been detected
for a long time...just my choice of how to test and perfect the system.
On 12/15/2014 7:23 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> On 12/15/2014 8:23 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>>
>>
>> [quote="saylor.dave(at)gmail.com"]I've pretty much given up on teflon
>> paste-type thread sealants. I prefer Permatex Aviation
>> Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
>>
>> --Dave
>> /quote]
>>
>> Dave, Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Number One, or Number Three?
>> Spruce sells both.
>> John
>>
> I really hate to see this thread rear it's ugly head over and over.
> Proper use of AN fittings should (read that word again) not require
> thread sealants. If you have a leak then there's something wrong and
> covering up the problem with thread sealant (to me) isn't the best
> course of action.
> Nowhere in AC43.12-1B does the term 'thread sealant' appear. Yeah, I
> know ..... "it's experimental and I can do what I want."
>
> Almost all of the 'thread sealant' problems I've helped 'fix' are in
> the brake system ..... almost all due to sealant debris in the brake
> master cylinder. It appears that some folks think "If a little thread
> sealant helps, then lots if thread sealant must be better."
>
> In Kelly's email he mentions the DEL seals for flare fittings. They're
> available and acceptable to 'fix' leaking flare fittings, although
> they aren't in AC43.13-1B either. Properly made and maintained, flare
> fittings should not leak. But they do because they were 'over flared'
> (my term) or over time the nut had been tightened by a gorilla with a
> wrench trying to stop a leak. I've seen thin flares on certified and
> experimentals, and even seen JB weld in there as a 'fix'.
>
> Don't misunderstand me. I used to 'fix' stuff using whatever method
> was available, but having seen what happens over time I try and
> correct the problem instead of covering it up. And yes, I may still go
> off the deep end trying to be creative 'fixing' when I couldn't
> actually fix the problem correctly.
> Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
> Properly made and maintained, flare fittings should not leak. But they do because
they were 'over flared' (my term) or over time the nut had been tightened
by a gorilla with a wrench trying to stop a leak.
The key words there are "properly made." I wonder where those fittings are actually
made? My experience (very limited to one RV-10) has shown me that about 5
to 10 percent of fittings always leak. Replace them with another and the problem
is solved. The hardest one to find was a female pipe thread that turned out
to be out of round. I got an exact replacement from the same store, and found
the same problem. Changed brands, and the problem was solved.
Never buy a car made on a Monday... [Laughing]
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435739#435739
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
Both kelly (pipe thread) and John (chinese? fittings) make good points.
It isn't easy to dodge all the bullets. I've been hit more than once.
It's all a learning experience.
One thing I have done is to draw a vacuum (think "mighty vac") from the
reservoir before filling with fluid. I expect to find really slow leaks
.... mostly from dry seals .... but nothing major. You'll find loose
flare nuts that way. Putting 10 - 20 pounds pressure into the reservoir
after filling with fluid should show where the leaks are within an hour
or so. Left overnight though you may find puddles. BTDT.
Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard way)
is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using plenty of
lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow rather than
crack. I use 5606 brake fluid for lubricant.
My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!!
Linn
On 12/15/2014 10:01 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>
>> Properly made and maintained, flare fittings should not leak. But they do because
they were 'over flared' (my term) or over time the nut had been tightened
by a gorilla with a wrench trying to stop a leak.
>
> The key words there are "properly made." I wonder where those fittings are actually
made? My experience (very limited to one RV-10) has shown me that about
5 to 10 percent of fittings always leak. Replace them with another and the problem
is solved. The hardest one to find was a female pipe thread that turned
out to be out of round. I got an exact replacement from the same store, and found
the same problem. Changed brands, and the problem was solved.
> Never buy a car made on a Monday... [Laughing]
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435739#435739
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil Filter Question |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
I'm getting ready to put a pre-oiler on my airframe and was placing the
order. One of their questions involved the type/model of the oil
filter... That got me to thinking..
What filter are most folks going with? My engine builder (Aerosport)
shipped my D4A5 with a Champion CH48109-1.
I'm just curious to know how much different my filter is from others
because I searched the archives for CH48109-1 and the results came back
empty. I'm not sure if I should be concerned or oblivious to the fact that
I'm the only one who could be running it.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Question |
It will probably depend on what filter adapter you use.
Mine I think uses 48110. I know some others use
48108 too. So it'll all depend.
BTW: I only use tempest filters now. You may want to
make sure that they sell the one you need.
Tim
On 12/15/2014 10:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> I'm getting ready to put a pre-oiler on my airframe and was placing the
> order. One of their questions involved the type/model of the oil
> filter... That got me to thinking..
>
> What filter are most folks going with? My engine builder (Aerosport)
> shipped my D4A5 with a Champion CH48109-1.
>
> I'm just curious to know how much different my filter is from others
> because I searched the archives for CH48109-1 and the results came back
> empty. I'm not sure if I should be concerned or oblivious to the fact
> that I'm the only one who could be running it.
>
> Phil
>
> *\
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
Sure, never use any sealants on a b-nut. Just pipe threads. I figured
that's what Kelly was describing.
--D
On Monday, December 15, 2014, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Both kelly (pipe thread) and John (chinese? fittings) make good points.
> It isn't easy to dodge all the bullets. I've been hit more than once. It's
> all a learning experience.
>
> One thing I have done is to draw a vacuum (think "mighty vac") from the
> reservoir before filling with fluid. I expect to find really slow leaks
> .... mostly from dry seals .... but nothing major. You'll find loose flare
> nuts that way. Putting 10 - 20 pounds pressure into the reservoir after
> filling with fluid should show where the leaks are within an hour or so.
> Left overnight though you may find puddles. BTDT.
>
> Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard way) is
> to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using plenty of
> lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow rather than
> crack. I use 5606 brake fluid for lubricant.
> My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!!
> Linn
>
> On 12/15/2014 10:01 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>>
>> Properly made and maintained, flare fittings should not leak. But they
>>> do because they were 'over flared' (my term) or over time the nut had been
>>> tightened by a gorilla with a wrench trying to stop a leak.
>>>
>>
>> The key words there are "properly made." I wonder where those fittings
>> are actually made? My experience (very limited to one RV-10) has shown me
>> that about 5 to 10 percent of fittings always leak. Replace them with
>> another and the problem is solved. The hardest one to find was a female
>> pipe thread that turned out to be out of round. I got an exact replacement
>> from the same store, and found the same problem. Changed brands, and the
>> problem was solved.
>> Never buy a car made on a Monday... [Laughing]
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435739#435739
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
> Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard
> way) is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using
> plenty of lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow
> rather than crack. I use 5606 brake fluid for lubricant.
> My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!!
> Linn
I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares. I
got the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find - would
love to find a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is done.
Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each flare
with plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me. Do that,
and don't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak free for me.
Tapered pipe fittings where another story.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
On 12/14/2014 10:20 PM, David Saylor wrote:
> I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type thread sealants. I
> prefer Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
>
> --Dave
I've used no sealant as well as several teflon past-type sealeants as
well and had both brake line and oil line leaks. I've had leaks. The
Form-a-Gasket sounds like a solution - wish I found out sooner.
While chasing the equivalent Loctite product, I finally found and used
this -Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant #56521
<http://www.all-spec.com/products/56521.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9s75m-wBEiQATOxgwbjm5OL7j5P-fO3P5Xl_vLOYfoGKsQN5ROwKbGZbi2MaAor28P8HAQ>.
This too is a solution.
They have a half dozen similar products but this works reliably and
easily on high pressure tapered fittings. Little is required, it
doesn't harden, it seems to cure instantly and simply doesn't leak. It
works so well in comparison to the other products, I'm not sure how it
does it but does.
On a non-aviation note: I recently had the need to fix several water
line breaks (black poly pipe). The landscape guys fixed it with gray PVC
push in fittings and a white PVC cap on a tapered fitting. They all
leaked very slowly. They thought it was the push in barb fitting and
kept putting extra and new hose clamps on it but I could see it was the
white threaded cap on the gray threaded fitting. The cap would
inevitably break before one could tighten it enough to stop the leak.
One light application of #56521 and no leaks - didn't even have to cinch
it down very far. And the fittings were easily removeable with no dried
up sealant pieces to get clean up and keep out of sensitive systems.
I've done about 6 of these now - same results. I found the same with a
slow leaking oil cooler fitting on the '10.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
Brian carpenter covered a video on flared tubing under the eas videos
Flared Tubing-Fabrication & Assembly - EAA Video Player - Your ...
www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=3727487001
Dec 2, 2008 - In this Hint, Brian Carpenter demonstrates how to fabricate an
d assemble flared tubing for use in many aircraft installaitons. Brian is an
A&P ...
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
>
>> On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>> Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard way) i
s to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using plenty of lubric
ant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow rather than crack. I u
se 5606 brake fluid for lubricant.
>> My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!!
>> Linn
> I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares. I go
t the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find - would love to f
ind a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is done.
>
> Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each flare wi
th plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me. Do that, and don
't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak free for me.
>
> Tapered pipe fittings where another story.....
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
Good one! That covers everything it would seem except that I
can't/won't do it in one tightening. Multiple ins and outs seems to
insure no cracking or whatever. Maybe just 2-3 times.
If I was paid by the hour I might work harder to get that one shot and
done technique to work. Might involve the consistent use of the 45deg
reamer before starting.
On 12/16/2014 12:28 PM, P Reid wrote:
> Brian carpenter covered a video on flared tubing under the eas videos
>
>
> Flared Tubing-Fabrication & Assembly - EAA Video Player - Your
> ... <http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=3727487001>
>
> www.*eaavideo*.org/*video*.aspx?v=3727487001
> Dec 2, 2008 - In this Hint, Brian Carpenter demonstrates how to
> fabricate and assemble flared tubing for use in many aircraft
> installaitons. Brian is an A&P ...
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Bill Watson > wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>>> Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard
>>> way) is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using
>>> plenty of lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow
>>> rather than crack. I use 5606 brake fluid for lubricant.
>>> My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!!
>>> Linn
>> I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares.
>> I got the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find -
>> would love to find a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is
>> done.
>>
>> Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each
>> flare with plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me.
>> Do that, and don't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak
>> free for me.
>>
>> Tapered pipe fittings where another story.....
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
"Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard way)
is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using plenty of
lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow rather than
crack."
If you look very carefully at the way the flaring tool works, you'll see that the
flare is not at all round (due to the 3 lobes on the tool) as you go in. It
is only when you back off (and the threads do not turn for 340 degrees) that
you make the flare round. It is important to turn the tool a full turn counter
clockwise before releasing the tubing from the clamping mechanism.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435783#435783
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Spread in AOPA Pilot |
Tim, congrats on the spread in January AOPA Pilot mag. Nice job.
-Sean #40303 (main pants and fairings done, nice speed boost)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
Tim,
would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas pilots
to read?
Cheers
Werner
On 18.12.2014 15:37, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Thanks guys. It was actually a full article and everything but they
> basically chopped out all the text and did photos and captions only.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
Here you go:
http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
That's just those 2 pages.
Tim
On 12/18/2014 8:50 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas pilots
> to read?
>
> Cheers
>
> Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Spread in AOPA Pilot |
Anyway you could post the original article that was supposed to go with
this? I am sure it would be an interesting read.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spread in AOPA Pilot
Here you go:
http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
That's just those 2 pages.
Tim
On 12/18/2014 8:50 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas
> pilots to read?
>
> Cheers
>
> Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Agreed! I wanna see what you wrote up.
On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 10:24 AM, William Greenley
wrote:
>
>
> Anyway you could post the original article that was supposed to go with
> this? I am sure it would be an interesting read.
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spread in AOPA Pilot
>
>
> Here you go:
> http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
>
>
> That's just those 2 pages.
> Tim
>
>
> On 12/18/2014 8:50 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas
> > pilots to read?
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Werner
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
Possibly, but not right now. If I can find another magazine that is
interested in it, I'll submit it there. After the 1st I'll
see if anyone is interested. If not, then of course, I'll post it.
Tim
On 12/18/2014 10:32 AM, Ed Kranz wrote:
> Agreed! I wanna see what you wrote up.
>
> On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 10:24 AM, William Greenley > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Anyway you could post the original article that was supposed to go with
> this? I am sure it would be an interesting read.
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spread in AOPA Pilot
>
> >
>
> Here you go:
> http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
>
>
> That's just those 2 pages.
> Tim
>
>
> On 12/18/2014 8:50 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
> >
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas
> > pilots to read?
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Werner
>
>
> ==========
> br> fts!)
> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ==========
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Spread in AOPA Pilot |
I cannot decide if the glass is half full or half empty on this one.
For the half empty...
No disrespect towards you at all Tim but at first all I could think was...
wow what a pile of crap on AOPA's part. The least they could do is spare a
few paragraphs of your awesome narratives I've enjoyed reading over the
years. It's sad to say but I guess we're supposed to all be flattered that
a "homebuilt" got two pages of pictures in AOPA right?
For the half full...
Wow a non-corporate sponsored, homebuilt article was able to get a 2 page
spread of pictures and 8 sentences in AOPA... that's progress. I guess the
homebuilt market is really making a dent.
I guess it depends on which side of the bed I wake up on.
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2014 7:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spread in AOPA Pilot
Here you go:
http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
That's just those 2 pages.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
You're right that it has it's ups and downs.
The guy who got it in there is an RV pilot, so that's a plus,
and he was real nice. But yeah, usually if you take the time
to write something complete, you'd think you'd get at least
50% of it in. In this case I really didn't have much to do
with the thing except provide some info. And even that
info like fastest speed and slowest speed...I mean that's
a best guess. There's just so much more that could be
done to flatter the RV fleet, and I felt it missed out
on all of that.
I do like writing, so I'll probably try again. I'm sure over
the years there will be more things I'll try to get in.
I agree with Jae though. To me, I used to read EVERY
magazine I got, within the month I got it, cover to cover.
It was plane&pilot, flying, flight training, aopa pilot,
sport aviation, eaa experimenter, IFR, and now I just
signed up for sport aerobatics. The problem is, lately
I get many months behind on my reading. Too much going on
for one, but Jae's right. I don't want to hear all about
the new Diesel in every issue, and I certainly don't
want to read the same stuff in ALL of those magazines
every single month. The email newsletters are nice too,
but you see the same promo stuff in 12 different forms
every week, so it's more of a turn-off to keep getting
bombarded by it.
I'm also not too thrilled with some publications
incessant pushback against things like 406mhz ELT's
and ADS-B. Just a lot of wasted time if you ask me.
Tim
On 12/18/2014 12:59 PM, Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> I cannot decide if the glass is half full or half empty on this one.
>
> For the half empty...
>
> No disrespect towards you at all Tim but at first all I could think was...
> wow what a pile of crap on AOPA's part. The least they could do is spare a
> few paragraphs of your awesome narratives I've enjoyed reading over the
> years. It's sad to say but I guess we're supposed to all be flattered that
> a "homebuilt" got two pages of pictures in AOPA right?
>
>
> For the half full...
>
> Wow a non-corporate sponsored, homebuilt article was able to get a 2 page
> spread of pictures and 8 sentences in AOPA... that's progress. I guess the
> homebuilt market is really making a dent.
>
>
> I guess it depends on which side of the bed I wake up on.
>
> -Ben
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Well done Tim
Now it's about time you both flew the six States and two Territories of Australia!
Safe skies and Merry Christmas.
Warm regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
> On 19 Dec 2014, at 01:31, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Here you go:
> http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
>
>
> That's just those 2 pages.
> Tim
>
>
>> On 12/18/2014 8:50 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas pilots
>> to read?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Werner
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
:) You say that but in the next couple years we may come that way
and I think it would be a blast to do some a little flyabout. :)
Tim
On 12/18/2014 2:06 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> Well done Tim
>
> Now it's about time you both flew the six States and two Territories of Australia!
>
> Safe skies and Merry Christmas.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick Pulis
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>> On 19 Dec 2014, at 01:31, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> Here you go:
>> http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
>>
>>
>> That's just those 2 pages.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>> On 12/18/2014 8:50 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas pilots
>>> to read?
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Werner
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
You bet :)
just cross that word "little" out :), except on the east coast most of
that part of the world the distances between the next airfields are
closer to the 400-500 miles distance. But it's so nice to fly there
especially in the outback where you can do your own sightseeing around
the wonders of the nature I loved it a lot and would do any time again!
Cheers Werner (1 Territory (NT) and 1 State (TAS) missing)
On 18.12.2014 21:20, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> :) You say that but in the next couple years we may come that way
> and I think it would be a blast to do some a little flyabout. :)
>
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
All RV-10 drivers are welcome to come and stay with us here in Adelaide, we're
steadily notching up RV-10 visitors.
We finalised our airfares to the US yesterday, so Linda and I will hopefully finally
meet up with some of the RV-10 family next year at Oshkosh. We intend to
be there for the first five days, before moving on to Canada.
Prior to traveling to Oshkosh we will visiting Los Angeles and San Diego, are there
any RV-10 builders in Los Angeles or San Diego please?
We will then be traveling to Kitchener, Ontario and would love to meet up with
any RV-10 builders in Canada too please.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 19 Dec 2014, at 06:50, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> :) You say that but in the next couple years we may come that way
> and I think it would be a blast to do some a little flyabout. :)
>
>
> Tim
>
>> On 12/18/2014 2:06 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>>
>> Well done Tim
>>
>> Now it's about time you both flew the six States and two Territories of Australia!
>>
>> Safe skies and Merry Christmas.
>>
>> Warm regards
>>
>> Patrick Pulis
>> Adelaide, South Australia
>>
>>> On 19 Dec 2014, at 01:31, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Here you go:
>>> http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> That's just those 2 pages.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 12/18/2014 8:50 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Tim,
>>>>
>>>> would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas pilots
>>>> to read?
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>>
>>>> Werner
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Time for Front Seats |
Looking for opinions on the front seats.
Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ?
I'm tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat
frames out and back sounds risky.
I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an
estimate - while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the
guy seemed clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time
and materials" -- with a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could
take me 10" (at $75 per hr). I left unfulfilled.
--Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
I would give Abby at Flightline Interiors a call. You don't have to
send here anything and she does a great job. Very satisfied customer.
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com
-Sean #40303
> Ron Walker
> December 19, 2014 at 8:25 AM
>
> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>
> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing
> ? I'm tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat
> frames out and back sounds risky.
>
> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an
> estimate - while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery,
> the guy seemed clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond
> "time and materials" -- with a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs,
> could take me 10" (at $75 per hr). I left unfulfilled.
>
> --Ron
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Depending on where you are, also consider Geoff Combs at Aerosport
products. in Columbus OH area for very nice custom seat covering.
The front seats are more easily shipped if you separate the seat back from
the seat base.
On Fri, Dec 19, 2014 at 8:08 AM, Sean Stephens
wrote:
>
>
> I would give Abby at Flightline Interiors a call. You don't have to send
> here anything and she does a great job. Very satisfied customer.
>
> http://www.flightlineinteriors.com
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Ron Walker
>> December 19, 2014 at 8:25 AM
>>
>>
>> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>>
>> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ?
>> I'm tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat frames
>> out and back sounds risky.
>>
>> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an
>> estimate - while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the
>> guy seemed clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time and
>> materials" -- with a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could take me
>> 10" (at $75 per hr). I left unfulfilled.
>>
>> --Ron
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
Ron;
I went to a rather famous auto upholstery place in Southern California, they
were very expensive and in the end the work was pretty bad. I ended up
getting a beautiful seat from Desser for a reasonable price. I do not know
if they are still doing this as it was during the era when Desser was
pushing into the RV aftermarket business. If I were to do this again with a
RV-16 I would go the aircraft uphostery route, albeit Oregon, Desser or
other upholstery company that has done this before.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Walker
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 6:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Time for Front Seats
Looking for opinions on the front seats.
Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ?
I'm tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat
frames out and back sounds risky.
I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an
estimate - while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the
guy seemed clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time
and materials" -- with a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could
take me 10" (at $75 per hr). I left unfulfilled.
--Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread in AOPA Pilot |
Patrick;
You owe me a visit from last time!
When in Los Angeles, consider coming down to Orange county- 45 minutes south
from LAX (or 30 miles). We would love to host you and Linda when you're out.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Pulis
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 3:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spread in AOPA Pilot
All RV-10 drivers are welcome to come and stay with us here in Adelaide,
we're steadily notching up RV-10 visitors.
We finalised our airfares to the US yesterday, so Linda and I will hopefully
finally meet up with some of the RV-10 family next year at Oshkosh. We
intend to be there for the first five days, before moving on to Canada.
Prior to traveling to Oshkosh we will visiting Los Angeles and San Diego,
are there any RV-10 builders in Los Angeles or San Diego please?
We will then be traveling to Kitchener, Ontario and would love to meet up
with any RV-10 builders in Canada too please.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 19 Dec 2014, at 06:50, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> :) You say that but in the next couple years we may come that way
> and I think it would be a blast to do some a little flyabout. :)
>
>
> Tim
>
>> On 12/18/2014 2:06 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>>
>>
>> Well done Tim
>>
>> Now it's about time you both flew the six States and two Territories of
>> Australia!
>>
>> Safe skies and Merry Christmas.
>>
>> Warm regards
>>
>> Patrick Pulis
>> Adelaide, South Australia
>>
>>> On 19 Dec 2014, at 01:31, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Here you go:
>>> http://www.myrv10.com/AOPA_50_States.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> That's just those 2 pages.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 12/18/2014 8:50 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Tim,
>>>>
>>>> would there be a copy available on your website, for us overseas pilots
>>>> to read?
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>>
>>>> Werner
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
It appears that she took all the RV-10 products off her web site
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 19, 2014, at 10:08 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
I would give Abby at Flightline Interiors a call. You don't have to send here
anything and she does a great job. Very satisfied customer.
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com
-Sean #40303
> Ron Walker
> December 19, 2014 at 8:25 AM
>
> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>
> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ? I'm tempted
to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat frames out and back
sounds risky.
>
> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an estimate
- while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the guy seemed clueless.
They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time and materials" -- with
a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could take me 10" (at $75 per hr).
I left unfulfilled.
>
> --Ron
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
I had front and rear seats covered in marine vinyl ..... easy to keep
clean and durable .... for $850 time/materials ..... which included
tuck/roll for the center panel. The lady works out of her home in
Titusville FL which is kinda local for me.
If you have removed the crotch strap from the back seats like I did, be
sure to tell the upholsterer so they can remove the 'notch' from the
rear seat bottom.
Linn
On 12/19/2014 9:25 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>
> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing
> ? I'm tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat
> frames out and back sounds risky.
>
> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an
> estimate - while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery,
> the guy seemed clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond
> "time and materials" -- with a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs,
> could take me 10" (at $75 per hr). I left unfulfilled.
>
> --Ron
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
I called .... they were 6-9 months lead time. That's the trouble with
success!!!
Linn
On 12/19/2014 10:58 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> It appears that she took all the RV-10 products off her web site
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 19, 2014, at 10:08 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>
> I would give Abby at Flightline Interiors a call. You don't have to send here
anything and she does a great job. Very satisfied customer.
>
> http://www.flightlineinteriors.com
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>> Ron Walker
>> December 19, 2014 at 8:25 AM
>>
>> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>>
>> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ? I'm
tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat frames out and
back sounds risky.
>>
>> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an estimate
- while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the guy seemed
clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time and materials" -- with
a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could take me 10" (at $75 per hr).
I left unfulfilled.
>>
>> --Ron
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
One thought about the front seats. One of the greatest builder mods of the whole
build was the two seat mods for the front seats. Trimming the track guard,
and nut plating the aft track block, both for easier seat removal. Hopefully
someone can post a link to the instructions for those mods as they are highly
worthwhile. Van's should have just embedded them into the plans they make so
much sense.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435916#435916
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
I would give Geoff at Aerosport Products a call. He's got more seat options than
what is shown on the web site.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 19, 2014, at 12:00 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
I called .... they were 6-9 months lead time. That's the trouble with success!!!
Linn
> On 12/19/2014 10:58 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> It appears that she took all the RV-10 products off her web site
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 19, 2014, at 10:08 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>
> I would give Abby at Flightline Interiors a call. You don't have to send here
anything and she does a great job. Very satisfied customer.
>
> http://www.flightlineinteriors.com
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>> Ron Walker
>> December 19, 2014 at 8:25 AM
>>
>> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>>
>> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ? I'm
tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat frames out and
back sounds risky.
>>
>> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an estimate
- while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the guy seemed
clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time and materials" -- with
a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could take me 10" (at $75 per hr).
I left unfulfilled.
>>
>> --Ron
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Time for Front Seats |
Aerosport Products can do your seats any many colors and fabrics. We can do
custom designs for a small fee.
We now have all RV-10 seat foams in 3D and can generate seat designs much
quicker thru a computer program.
This program is what many of the car manufactures use for designing their
seats patterns .
We do require you to send the front upper steel frame with the foams and
just the lower front seat foams.
For the back seats we have our own foams we sell that are very similar to
the Vans foams. All we need are Your corrugated rear seat back frames that
the builder assembles. We do offer carpet kits for the RV-10 also.
Give us a call
Thanks Geoff
www.aerosportproducts.com
Aerosport
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Time for Front Seats
I would give Geoff at Aerosport Products a call. He's got more seat
options than what is shown on the web site.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 19, 2014, at 12:00 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
I called .... they were 6-9 months lead time. That's the trouble with
success!!!
Linn
> On 12/19/2014 10:58 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> It appears that she took all the RV-10 products off her web site
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 19, 2014, at 10:08 AM, Sean Stephens
wrote:
>
> -->
>
> I would give Abby at Flightline Interiors a call. You don't have to send
here anything and she does a great job. Very satisfied customer.
>
> http://www.flightlineinteriors.com
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>> Ron Walker
>> December 19, 2014 at 8:25 AM
>>
>> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>>
>> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ?
I'm tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat frames
out and back sounds risky.
>>
>> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an
estimate - while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the guy
seemed clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time and
materials" -- with a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could take me
10" (at $75 per hr). I left unfulfilled.
>>
>> --Ron
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
My vote is for Abby with Flight Line interiors. I would bet she has the single
most experience in doing RV interiors.
She is extremely easy to work with. Great quality.
Dave Leikam
> On Dec 19, 2014, at 3:56 PM, Geoff Combs wrote:
>
> Aerosport Products can do your seats any many colors and fabrics. We can do
> custom designs for a small fee.
> We now have all RV-10 seat foams in 3D and can generate seat designs much
> quicker thru a computer program.
> This program is what many of the car manufactures use for designing their
> seats patterns .
>
> We do require you to send the front upper steel frame with the foams and
> just the lower front seat foams.
> For the back seats we have our own foams we sell that are very similar to
> the Vans foams. All we need are Your corrugated rear seat back frames that
> the builder assembles. We do offer carpet kits for the RV-10 also.
> Give us a call
>
> Thanks Geoff
> www.aerosportproducts.com
>
> Aerosport
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 2:36 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Time for Front Seats
>
>
> I would give Geoff at Aerosport Products a call. He's got more seat
> options than what is shown on the web site.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 19, 2014, at 12:00 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> I called .... they were 6-9 months lead time. That's the trouble with
> success!!!
> Linn
>
>> On 12/19/2014 10:58 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> It appears that she took all the RV-10 products off her web site
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 19, 2014, at 10:08 AM, Sean Stephens
> wrote:
>>
>> -->
>>
>> I would give Abby at Flightline Interiors a call. You don't have to send
> here anything and she does a great job. Very satisfied customer.
>>
>> http://www.flightlineinteriors.com
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>> Ron Walker
>>> December 19, 2014 at 8:25 AM
>>>
>>> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>>>
>>> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ?
> I'm tempted to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat frames
> out and back sounds risky.
>>>
>>> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an
> estimate - while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the guy
> seemed clueless. They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time and
> materials" -- with a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could take me
> 10" (at $75 per hr). I left unfulfilled.
>>>
>>> --Ron
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
On 12/19/2014 6:42 PM, Jae Chang wrote:
>
> Abby and crew is definitely easy to work with, and i have ordered
> several things over the years.
>
> However, the one disappointment i had was with ordering the rear
> passenger seat floor mats. For some reason, they are small and do not
> fit the footwell. They are short about 2 inches or so all around. She
> said that was all they had and did not have anything bigger. It just
> struck me as odd that they couldn't make a simple modification to
> fully fit the footwell?! The fronts fit great.
>
> Jae
>
Mine fit well - did you have carpet installed on the surrounding
vertical surfaces? I did and I'm thinking that may be a dependency.
I also 2nd the motion on Abby's seat work. Just pick the materials and
order, no need to send anything. They'll fit fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
The options weren=92t as prevalent when I did my seats, but I went with
a local guy that did seats for hot rods. They turned out great and a
very good price, although I don=92t recall exactly what. I=92d look
into the normal options, but try talking to a local hot rod club as well
as anyone that does good work on their seats has the equipment and skill
to do yours as well, and since it doesn=92t say aviation it might be a
lot cheaper.
Marcus
40286
> On Dec 19, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Bill Watson
wrote:
>
>
>
> On 12/19/2014 6:42 PM, Jae Chang wrote:
>
>>
>> Abby and crew is definitely easy to work with, and i have ordered
several things over the years.
>>
>> However, the one disappointment i had was with ordering the rear
passenger seat floor mats. For some reason, they are small and do not
fit the footwell. They are short about 2 inches or so all around. She
said that was all they had and did not have anything bigger. It just
struck me as odd that they couldn't make a simple modification to fully
fit the footwell?! The fronts fit great.
>>
>> Jae
>>
> Mine fit well - did you have carpet installed on the surrounding
vertical surfaces? I did and I'm thinking that may be a dependency.
>
> I also 2nd the motion on Abby's seat work. Just pick the materials
and order, no need to send anything. They'll fit fine.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
| From: | Bruce Hoppe <bruce.hoppe(at)yahoo.com> |
I bought virtually everything that Geoff Combs/Aerosport Products sells for the
RV-10 - IP, all interior panels, overhead console, front and rear leather seats
with headrests, center console with upholstered arm rest, headliner, and carpet.
Although I do not have everything installed yet, the quality looks great.
And, since Geoff built and flys an RV-10 I have no worries about something
not fitting. His service, responsiveness, and support either directly or through
Zac Holcomb have been excellent.
Bruce
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 19, 2014, at 8:25 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
>
> Looking for opinions on the front seats.
>
> Anyone have recent input from going the Oregon Aero route wrt pricing ? I'm tempted
to use that avenue, but the idea of shipping both seat frames out and back
sounds risky.
>
> I took the cushions and frame to a local auto interior shop to get an estimate
- while claiming they are 'experts' in aviation upholstery, the guy seemed clueless.
They refused to give me an estimate beyond "time and materials" -- with
a time estimate of "could take me 2 hrs, could take me 10" (at $75 per hr).
I left unfulfilled.
>
> --Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time for front seats |
| From: | Terry Moushon <tmoushon(at)gmail.com> |
I met Geoff and Zac a couple years ago at OSH13 and I saw their products up close
at OSH14. I flew to Lancaster to visit Geoffs' facility (worth the time) and
drop off my front seats and rear seat backs a couple months ago.... Yesterday,
I received the rest of my RV10 order. WOW! The workmanship was AWESOME.
I think their abilities come from the years of doing new model interior design
work for the automotive industry. I have heard of several good seat makers....but
I think Geoffs' interior design background, his successful completion
of his RV10 and Zac push them to the top.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time for front seats |
| From: | Craig Rufi <craigr60(at)gmail.com> |
I am also close to interior. That's for posting.. I'll use him also.
Craig
On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 6:32 AM, Terry Moushon wrote:
>
>
> I met Geoff and Zac a couple years ago at OSH13 and I saw their products
> up close at OSH14. I flew to Lancaster to visit Geoffs' facility (worth
> the time) and drop off my front seats and rear seat backs a couple months
> ago.... Yesterday, I received the rest of my RV10 order. WOW! The
> workmanship was AWESOME. I think their abilities come from the years of
> doing new model interior design work for the automotive industry. I have
> heard of several good seat makers....but I think Geoffs' interior design
> background, his successful completion of his RV10 and Zac push them to the
> top.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Holes in the Landing Gear Mounts |
Guys
The WD-102- L & R Landing Gear Mounts have, each of them, 4 holes in the
horizontal part, the ones which must be final-drilled #12 according to step
4 (on figure 4) of page 28-16 of the Manual (Section 28 : Fwd Ribs, Bhds &
Bottom Skins), which doesn't seem to be used for anything.
Does anybody know what are these 4 holes for?
I ask because I didn't find the answer in the Manual, though I'm tempted to
use those holes to install an electric connector bus for the bunch of wires
which come from the Stick grip .
Regards
Carlos
---
Este email est=C3=A1 livre de v=C3=ADrus e malware porque a prote=C3=A7=C3
=A3o avast! Antivirus est=C3=A1 ativa.
http://www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Holes in the Landing Gear Mounts |
| From: | "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com> |
Those holes are for the Mid Seat Rail Supports that you assembled in step 1 and
2.
There are also several threads that identify the fact that the plans do not tell
you when to install these supports, only that they should be left out in order
to drill and ream the gear leg mounting hole...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435945#435945
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Holes in the Landing Gear Mounts |
I got so frustrated trying to use the 4 bolts/nuts to attach those
'spacers' that I created a plate with three nutplates to go on one side
of the web (that you can't see) ..... and the bolt/nut to go on the
other side of the web. Because I could.
Linn
On 12/20/2014 3:35 PM, Rocketman1988 wrote:
>
> Those holes are for the Mid Seat Rail Supports that you assembled in step 1 and
2.
>
> There are also several threads that identify the fact that the plans do not tell
you when to install these supports, only that they should be left out in order
to drill and ream the gear leg mounting hole...
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435945#435945
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Holes in the Landing Gear Mounts |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hey Linn, I had to bring in the reserves to help get those nuts/washers on
(my wife and her little hands). Heading your way at New Years, so I need
to come for an inspection (again) ;-)
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 3:53 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> I got so frustrated trying to use the 4 bolts/nuts to attach those
> 'spacers' that I created a plate with three nutplates to go on one side of
> the web (that you can't see) ..... and the bolt/nut to go on the other side
> of the web. Because I could.
> Linn
>
> On 12/20/2014 3:35 PM, Rocketman1988 wrote:
>
>>
>> Those holes are for the Mid Seat Rail Supports that you assembled in step
>> 1 and 2.
>>
>> There are also several threads that identify the fact that the plans do
>> not tell you when to install these supports, only that they should be left
>> out in order to drill and ream the gear leg mounting hole...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435945#435945
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Holes in the Landing Gear Mounts |
Hi Rick!
Just give me a call .....
Merry Christmas!!
Linn
On 12/21/2014 9:35 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hey Linn, I had to bring in the reserves to help get those
> nuts/washers on (my wife and her little hands). Heading your way at
> New Years, so I need to come for an inspection (again) ;-)
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
> On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 3:53 PM, Linn Walters > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I got so frustrated trying to use the 4 bolts/nuts to attach those
> 'spacers' that I created a plate with three nutplates to go on one
> side of the web (that you can't see) ..... and the bolt/nut to go
> on the other side of the web. Because I could.
> Linn
>
> On 12/20/2014 3:35 PM, Rocketman1988 wrote:
>
> >
>
> Those holes are for the Mid Seat Rail Supports that you
> assembled in step 1 and 2.
>
> There are also several threads that identify the fact that the
> plans do not tell you when to install these supports, only
> that they should be left out in order to drill and ream the
> gear leg mounting hole...
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435945#435945
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
>
> ===================================
> br> fts!)
> r> > /www.aeroelectric.com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ===================================
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
Grumpy
gengrumpy(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>
> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>
> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>
> Grumpy
> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
I don't have one on hand, but have installed a couple.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>
> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>
> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>
> Grumpy
> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Getting ready to install one and connect it up to a 420W, MX20, and AFS3400EE.
I am interested to hear any discussions also.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 2:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: NavWorx ADS-B
Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
Grumpy
gengrumpy(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Ralph,
Does your 3400 have the "s" processor? AFS has released several updates to the
software to resolve some issues with the NavWorx. I just installed the last
beta version, but I haven't had a chance to fly with it yet due to the weather.
The nice weather days recently seemed to only days I'm working.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:29 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> Getting ready to install one and connect it up to a 420W, MX20, and AFS3400EE.
>
> I am interested to hear any discussions also.....
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
> Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 2:59 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: NavWorx ADS-B
>
>
> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>
> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>
> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>
> Grumpy
> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Bob and Rene,
Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
1. Reliability of the system.
2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work with
the system.
3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
Thanks - Grumpy
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>
>>
>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>
>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>
>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>
>> Grumpy
>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Yes, I have the 's'!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NavWorx ADS-B
Ralph,
Does your 3400 have the "s" processor? AFS has released several updates to the
software to resolve some issues with the NavWorx. I just installed the last
beta version, but I haven't had a chance to fly with it yet due to the weather.
The nice weather days recently seemed to only days I'm working.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:29 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> -->
>
> Getting ready to install one and connect it up to a 420W, MX20, and AFS3400EE.
>
> I am interested to hear any discussions also.....
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
> Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 2:59 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: NavWorx ADS-B
>
>
> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>
> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>
> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>
> Grumpy
> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
[quote="gengrumpy"]Bob and Rene,
Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
1
3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
Thanks - Grumpy
[quote]
If you intend to use or need the ADSB-out after 2020 you need to have a "certified"
(e.g. meets FAR specs) gps position source.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436131#436131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
See below.
Btw, I have one for sale.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> Bob and Rene,
>
> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>
> 1. Reliability of the system.
In my experience it's very reliable.
>
> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work with
the system.
The wiring is simple. The programming is a little archaic, but it isn't hard. The
327 works as a remote so the navworx box gets the right squawk. I don't have
experience with the Chelton.
>
> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
Non-certified. For a certified plane the certified version is required. I doubt
many of the certified units are going into experimentals. I don't know the 2020
ramifications of the non-certified unit.
>
> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
A cheaper way to go ads-b in/out if you already are running on a mode C transponder.
>
> Thanks - Grumpy
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>>
>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>
>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>
>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>
>>> Grumpy
>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
It should work well for you. It's not too hard to install but will require some
minor pin adjustments on the Chelton depending on what you have wired right
now. If you have WSI weather, there is more to think about but if not it's pretty
straight forward. You should find it plenty reliable, as long as you're
in a coverage area. I've been using one since 2008 and bought another for my
RV14.
Right now I'd skip the certified GPS for the time being. It's modular and snap
in so won't take long to add later and the price will go down on the module later.
Keep in mind that there are more weather products available with FIS-B than what
the aging Cheltons can display, but you'll still get the basics and can also
use a wifi adapter they sell, with your iPad, to get the other data if you wish.
I'm going to fly mine as-is for another year or two and then add the certified
GPS module. If you just want to spend the money and forget about it, but the certified
one now.
Tim
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> Bob and Rene,
>
> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>
> 1. Reliability of the system.
>
> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work with
the system.
>
> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>
> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>
> Thanks - Grumpy
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>>
>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>
>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>
>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>
>>> Grumpy
>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
For the list (and whoever is keeping track).
I performed the SB on the nose gear leg attachment to the engine mount. No cracking
found, so the doubler plate was primed and fit nicely without any trimming
required.
325hrs with probably 50 or so turf field landings.
For what its worth as technique, I try to keep as much weight off of the nose gear
as possible until slowed to taxi speed, even on hard surfaces.
grumpy
N184JM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
If I pull the trigger and buy one before April (my ACI time), Ill probably be asking
you a lot more questions!
It sure seems to be the most economical solution for my 10 now.
I dont have wx on my Cheltons but do have on my G-396 (XM WX). Traffic and radar
would be the most valuable for the Cheltons.
What does the WI-FI connect to? Couldnt find it on their website. I use ForeFlight
on the iPad.
grumpy
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:49 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> It should work well for you. It's not too hard to install but will require some
minor pin adjustments on the Chelton depending on what you have wired right
now. If you have WSI weather, there is more to think about but if not it's
pretty straight forward. You should find it plenty reliable, as long as you're
in a coverage area. I've been using one since 2008 and bought another for my
RV14.
> Right now I'd skip the certified GPS for the time being. It's modular and snap
in so won't take long to add later and the price will go down on the module
later.
>
> Keep in mind that there are more weather products available with FIS-B than what
the aging Cheltons can display, but you'll still get the basics and can also
use a wifi adapter they sell, with your iPad, to get the other data if you
wish.
> I'm going to fly mine as-is for another year or two and then add the certified
GPS module. If you just want to spend the money and forget about it, but the
certified one now.
>
>
> Tim
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>
>>
>> Bob and Rene,
>>
>> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>>
>> 1. Reliability of the system.
>>
>> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work with
the system.
>>
>> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>>
>> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>>
>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>>
>>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>>
>>>> Grumpy
>>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Which version do you have, components and price?
grumpy
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:39 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
> See below.
>
> Btw, I have one for sale.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>
>>
>> Bob and Rene,
>>
>> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>>
>> 1. Reliability of the system.
> In my experience it's very reliable.
>>
>> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work with
the system.
> The wiring is simple. The programming is a little archaic, but it isn't hard.
The 327 works as a remote so the navworx box gets the right squawk. I don't have
experience with the Chelton.
>>
>> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
> Non-certified. For a certified plane the certified version is required. I doubt
many of the certified units are going into experimentals. I don't know the
2020 ramifications of the non-certified unit.
>>
>> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
> A cheaper way to go ads-b in/out if you already are running on a mode C transponder.
>>
>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>>
>>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>>
>>>> Grumpy
>>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
I have the ADS600-B. No ARINC, I think. Non-certified GPS. Includes both antenna
cables and a GPS antenna. If the shark fin UAT antenna survived the crash, that's
included too. $2,200 shipped conus. I'll include as much of the harness
as I can successfully pull from the plane. It does have the console port in the
harness with about 4-6' of wire.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 5:04 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> Which version do you have, components and price?
>
> grumpy
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:39 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>
>> See below.
>>
>> Btw, I have one for sale.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> 352-427-0285
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob and Rene,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>>>
>>> 1. Reliability of the system.
>> In my experience it's very reliable.
>>>
>>> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work
with the system.
>> The wiring is simple. The programming is a little archaic, but it isn't hard.
The 327 works as a remote so the navworx box gets the right squawk. I don't
have experience with the Chelton.
>>>
>>> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>> Non-certified. For a certified plane the certified version is required. I doubt
many of the certified units are going into experimentals. I don't know the
2020 ramifications of the non-certified unit.
>>>
>>> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>> A cheaper way to go ads-b in/out if you already are running on a mode C transponder.
>>>
>>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>>
>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>>>
>>>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>>>
>>>>> Grumpy
>>>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
The wifi port won't feed info to foreflight, but if you have the stratus, it will
activate all traffic in your area.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> If I pull the trigger and buy one before April (my ACI time), Ill probably be
asking you a lot more questions!
>
> It sure seems to be the most economical solution for my 10 now.
>
> I dont have wx on my Cheltons but do have on my G-396 (XM WX). Traffic and radar
would be the most valuable for the Cheltons.
>
> What does the WI-FI connect to? Couldnt find it on their website. I use ForeFlight
on the iPad.
>
> grumpy
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:49 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> It should work well for you. It's not too hard to install but will require
some minor pin adjustments on the Chelton depending on what you have wired right
now. If you have WSI weather, there is more to think about but if not it's
pretty straight forward. You should find it plenty reliable, as long as you're
in a coverage area. I've been using one since 2008 and bought another for
my RV14.
>> Right now I'd skip the certified GPS for the time being. It's modular and snap
in so won't take long to add later and the price will go down on the module
later.
>>
>> Keep in mind that there are more weather products available with FIS-B than
what the aging Cheltons can display, but you'll still get the basics and can also
use a wifi adapter they sell, with your iPad, to get the other data if you
wish.
>> I'm going to fly mine as-is for another year or two and then add the certified
GPS module. If you just want to spend the money and forget about it, but the
certified one now.
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob and Rene,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>>>
>>> 1. Reliability of the system.
>>>
>>> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work
with the system.
>>>
>>> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>>>
>>> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>>>
>>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>>
>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>>>
>>>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>>>
>>>>> Grumpy
>>>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Wifi connects to an iPad running WingX. There may be other options available,
but this is the one I have.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> If I pull the trigger and buy one before April (my ACI time), Ill probably be
asking you a lot more questions!
>
> It sure seems to be the most economical solution for my 10 now.
>
> I dont have wx on my Cheltons but do have on my G-396 (XM WX). Traffic and radar
would be the most valuable for the Cheltons.
>
> What does the WI-FI connect to? Couldnt find it on their website. I use ForeFlight
on the iPad.
>
> grumpy
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:49 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> It should work well for you. It's not too hard to install but will require
some minor pin adjustments on the Chelton depending on what you have wired right
now. If you have WSI weather, there is more to think about but if not it's
pretty straight forward. You should find it plenty reliable, as long as you're
in a coverage area. I've been using one since 2008 and bought another for
my RV14.
>> Right now I'd skip the certified GPS for the time being. It's modular and snap
in so won't take long to add later and the price will go down on the module
later.
>>
>> Keep in mind that there are more weather products available with FIS-B than
what the aging Cheltons can display, but you'll still get the basics and can also
use a wifi adapter they sell, with your iPad, to get the other data if you
wish.
>> I'm going to fly mine as-is for another year or two and then add the certified
GPS module. If you just want to spend the money and forget about it, but the
certified one now.
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob and Rene,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>>>
>>> 1. Reliability of the system.
>>>
>>> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work
with the system.
>>>
>>> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>>>
>>> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>>>
>>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>>
>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>>>
>>>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>>>
>>>>> Grumpy
>>>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Warning, thread drift!
If you have a cfi certificate, Hilton will give you a WingX subscription for free.
Includes geo-referencing.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436141#436141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
It connects to most except not Foreflight. Foreflight is still in the pig-headed
proprietary stage like Garmin.
Tim
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
>
> If I pull the trigger and buy one before April (my ACI time), Ill probably be
asking you a lot more questions!
>
> It sure seems to be the most economical solution for my 10 now.
>
> I dont have wx on my Cheltons but do have on my G-396 (XM WX). Traffic and radar
would be the most valuable for the Cheltons.
>
> What does the WI-FI connect to? Couldnt find it on their website. I use ForeFlight
on the iPad.
>
> grumpy
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:49 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> It should work well for you. It's not too hard to install but will require
some minor pin adjustments on the Chelton depending on what you have wired right
now. If you have WSI weather, there is more to think about but if not it's
pretty straight forward. You should find it plenty reliable, as long as you're
in a coverage area. I've been using one since 2008 and bought another for
my RV14.
>> Right now I'd skip the certified GPS for the time being. It's modular and snap
in so won't take long to add later and the price will go down on the module
later.
>>
>> Keep in mind that there are more weather products available with FIS-B than
what the aging Cheltons can display, but you'll still get the basics and can also
use a wifi adapter they sell, with your iPad, to get the other data if you
wish.
>> I'm going to fly mine as-is for another year or two and then add the certified
GPS module. If you just want to spend the money and forget about it, but the
certified one now.
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob and Rene,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>>>
>>> 1. Reliability of the system.
>>>
>>> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work
with the system.
>>>
>>> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>>>
>>> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>>>
>>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>>
>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>>>
>>>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>>>
>>>>> Grumpy
>>>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
Yeah, I saw that this week. That's an amazing deal and a good way for them to
promote it. It works well.
Tim
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 5:37 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> Warning, thread drift!
>
> If you have a cfi certificate, Hilton will give you a WingX subscription for
free. Includes geo-referencing.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436141#436141
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2014 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
The 2014 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of
weeks ago and it's time that I published this year's List of Contributors.
It is the people on this list that directly make these Email Lists and Forums
possible! Their generous Contributions keep the servers and Internet connection
up and running!
You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same
time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I also want to thank Andy, Bob, Corbin, George, and Jon for their generous support
through the supply of many great gifts this year!! These guys have some excellent
products and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites:
Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com
Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - http://www.aeroelectric.com
Corbin Glowacki - My Pilot Store - http://www.mypilotstore.com
George Race - Race Consulting - http://www.mrrace.com
Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - http://www.homebuilthelp.com
And finally, I'm proud to present The 2014 Fund Raiser List of Contributors:
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2014.html
Thank you again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List & Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
I have no idea whether it will interface with your equipment, but you
might (as I am) take a look at the pathfinder.
http://www.fdatasystems.com/pathfinder-remote
Linn
On 12/24/2014 5:03 PM, Miller John wrote:
>
> If I pull the trigger and buy one before April (my ACI time), Ill probably be
asking you a lot more questions!
>
> It sure seems to be the most economical solution for my 10 now.
>
> I dont have wx on my Cheltons but do have on my G-396 (XM WX). Traffic and radar
would be the most valuable for the Cheltons.
>
> What does the WI-FI connect to? Couldnt find it on their website. I use ForeFlight
on the iPad.
>
> grumpy
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:49 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> It should work well for you. It's not too hard to install but will require
some minor pin adjustments on the Chelton depending on what you have wired right
now. If you have WSI weather, there is more to think about but if not it's
pretty straight forward. You should find it plenty reliable, as long as you're
in a coverage area. I've been using one since 2008 and bought another for
my RV14.
>> Right now I'd skip the certified GPS for the time being. It's modular and snap
in so won't take long to add later and the price will go down on the module
later.
>>
>> Keep in mind that there are more weather products available with FIS-B than
what the aging Cheltons can display, but you'll still get the basics and can also
use a wifi adapter they sell, with your iPad, to get the other data if you
wish.
>> I'm going to fly mine as-is for another year or two and then add the certified
GPS module. If you just want to spend the money and forget about it, but the
certified one now.
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:08 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob and Rene,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>>>
>>> 1. Reliability of the system.
>>>
>>> 2. Ease of installation. Immuch better at sheet metal than avionics wiring.
Ive got Chelton Sport EFIS, and GTX327 transponder, which appear to work
with the system.
>>>
>>> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>>>
>>> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>>>
>>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>>
>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:16 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There quite a few of us on the list that have Navworx installed. I do.......
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 2:59 PM, Miller John wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Do any on the list have the NavWorx ADS-B unit installed and working?
>>>>>
>>>>> Id appreciate off-line discussions with any who do.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
>>>>>
>>>>> Grumpy
>>>>> gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
In the past couple weeks it's been discussed that homebuilts were kind of left
out in some of the rules...not that they shouldn't apply but that they simply
are written poorly and don't seem to incorporate amateur built airplanes in the
same ways other avionics do. I personally believe that the GPS should perform
to certified standards but that some of the standards set for ADS-B as a whole
may be overkill. Nobody is really sure what the end result will be, but clearly
some clarification will have to happen at some point. And many people and
manufacturers are hoping for some more reasonable specs. So actually, that's
one of the reasons that I think NavWorX has for still offering the cheaper
non-certified GPS at this time. It allows you to get a system running at lower
cost before 2020, yet is upgrade able later. And, they have plans to offer
the certified GPS at lower cost later. So for us with Amateur built planes, they
actually still encourage us to go with the regular ADS600B yet.
I am just glad to see people adopting it, and Amateur built is leading the way.
I think it gives us all some capabilities that every airplane should have.
Tim
> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:36 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> [quote="gengrumpy"]Bob and Rene,
>
> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>
> 1
>
> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>
> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>
> Thanks - Grumpy
>
> [quote]
>
> If you intend to use or need the ADSB-out after 2020 you need to have a "certified"
(e.g. meets FAR specs) gps position source.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436131#436131
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
To the credit of our experimental EFIS suppliers they don't often engage
in advertising vaporware.
I have heard whispers of Dynon having a certified WAAS GPS available for
their ADS-B in the next 3-6 months (probably Sun n Fun if they can).
Don't know whether it would also make any of the glass panel IFR as well
or not. Given that their 1090ES transponder is around $2200 and their
UAT receiver is around $1000.
I wouldn't be surprised to see GRT and AFS to find a solution as well.
I was rather disappointed in Mac McClellan's blog to see him spinning a
bunch of misconceptions about experimental and LSA aircraft (considering
he worked for EAA for awhile) based on his reading of an advisory
circular that ignores experimental. I see nothing in the regs that
prevents us from having a fully certified ADS-B Out installed in our
aircraft, as long as you have a transponder that meets the TSO and a GPS
that meets the TSO and install by following the manufacturer's
instructions as closely as possible. We most certainly don't need STCs
or field approvals, and quite frankly I think the FAA is really
stretching their own regs to make ADS-B vendors get STCs and AML
approval for each make an model certified aircraft, when neither are
required to do a simple install of a certified WAAS GPS and an install
of a mode 3A/C or Mode S transponder.
On 12/24/2014 9:06 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> In the past couple weeks it's been discussed that homebuilts were kind of left
out in some of the rules...not that they shouldn't apply but that they simply
are written poorly and don't seem to incorporate amateur built airplanes in
the same ways other avionics do. I personally believe that the GPS should perform
to certified standards but that some of the standards set for ADS-B as a
whole may be overkill. Nobody is really sure what the end result will be, but
clearly some clarification will have to happen at some point. And many people
and manufacturers are hoping for some more reasonable specs. So actually, that's
one of the reasons that I think NavWorX has for still offering the cheaper
non-certified GPS at this time. It allows you to get a system running at lower
cost before 2020, yet is upgrade able later. And, they have plans to offer
the certified GPS at lower cost later. So for us with Amateur built planes,
they actually still encourage us to go with the regul!
> ar ADS600B yet.
> I am just glad to see people adopting it, and Amateur built is leading the way.
I think it gives us all some capabilities that every airplane should have.
> Tim
>
>
>> On Dec 24, 2014, at 4:36 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>>
>> [quote="gengrumpy"]Bob and Rene,
>>
>> Thanks for the replies. Im interested in your opinions on the following:
>>
>> 1
>>
>> 3. Do you have the certified or non-certified WAAS? Ive been trying to decide
which to go with as there is a pretty large price difference.
>>
>> 4. Any other thoughts you have on their system.
>>
>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>
>> [quote]
>>
>> If you intend to use or need the ADSB-out after 2020 you need to have a "certified"
(e.g. meets FAR specs) gps position source.
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436131#436131
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
GRT has a solution: $2.2K Trig transponder controlled by HX or HXr, plus almost
any ADSB-in box. You still need a position source. If you have a 4xxW or 650/750
you're all set.
Tim, I agree the gps specs are overkill. But I cannot see the FAA relaxing them.
The manufacturers that already have gps boxes that meet them would cry foul,
there'd be legal trouble.
The STC is a non issue, hopefully, for EAB. For normally certified aircraft, it's
the latest battleground. The FAA has practically banned field approvals, no
alteration is now minor.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436232#436232
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
Some field approvals are hard to get, but field approvals for panel upgrades are
done all the time. Not all panel mounted avionics are STC'ed. However, as an
installer, it is much easier to do an STC installation versus a field approval.
For an STC I just install per the plans and fill out a 337 form. No approval
needed from anyone. Send in the form & it's done. The STC makes it easier for
the installer as much as for the FAA.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 25, 2014, at 1:09 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> GRT has a solution: $2.2K Trig transponder controlled by HX or HXr, plus almost
any ADSB-in box. You still need a position source. If you have a 4xxW or 650/750
you're all set.
>
> Tim, I agree the gps specs are overkill. But I cannot see the FAA relaxing them.
The manufacturers that already have gps boxes that meet them would cry foul,
there'd be legal trouble.
>
> The STC is a non issue, hopefully, for EAB. For normally certified aircraft,
it's the latest battleground. The FAA has practically banned field approvals,
no alteration is now minor.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436232#436232
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
The FAA has various conflicting advisory circulars. The one for panel
mount GPS states that a simple install, such as a 430W with no
interconnect to an autopilot, or any navcom or other rack mount avionics
install, such as audio panel is a MINOR alteration and requires no more
than a logbook entry. Installing same in experimental amateur built
requires NO approval at all. Filing 337s for minor alterations just gums
up the works with certified aircraft. You have stupidity piled upon
multiple layers, for example where one sunshade manufacturer got an STC
for something that doesn't require one. Now all others are looked at
with suspicion. In fact even the STC'd item can be installed without the
STC, because it is just a minor interior alteration that affects nothing
about the airworthiness of the aircraft.
The current AC about ADS-B in fact contradicts their own regs, in that
the transponder and GPS installs are both minor alterations, and
installing a single RS-232 between the two items does not change that.
The FAA is just requiring the STCs and 337s to gather data to prove the
install is in fact minor.
JMHO as an A&P/IA.
On 12/25/2014 6:19 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Some field approvals are hard to get, but field approvals for panel upgrades
are done all the time. Not all panel mounted avionics are STC'ed. However, as
an installer, it is much easier to do an STC installation versus a field approval.
For an STC I just install per the plans and fill out a 337 form. No approval
needed from anyone. Send in the form & it's done. The STC makes it easier
for the installer as much as for the FAA.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 25, 2014, at 1:09 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>>
>> GRT has a solution: $2.2K Trig transponder controlled by HX or HXr, plus almost
any ADSB-in box. You still need a position source. If you have a 4xxW or 650/750
you're all set.
>>
>> Tim, I agree the gps specs are overkill. But I cannot see the FAA relaxing them.
The manufacturers that already have gps boxes that meet them would cry foul,
there'd be legal trouble.
>>
>> The STC is a non issue, hopefully, for EAB. For normally certified aircraft,
it's the latest battleground. The FAA has practically banned field approvals,
no alteration is now minor.
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436232#436232
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GDL-88 (ADS-B) - On Hold?? |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Merry Christmas Everyone....
All the ADS-B conversation led me to ask a question I've been meaning to
ask....
Does anyone know what the reasoning is for Garmin to put the GDL-88 on an
engineering hold? I've heard they are currently not shipping them and I'm
not sure of their reason.
Anyone know anything? My panel is pre-wired for a GDL-88 to be plugged
in. I called to order on the other day and found out that it was
impossible. Not sure when they plan on lifting the engineering hold or
what caused it.
Just looking for answers if anyone has them....
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Unless the installer holds Inspection Authorization or Repair Station
license, the 337 must be approved by an IA confirming the install was done
per the STC requirements. But that is only on type certificated aircraft.
On Thu, Dec 25, 2014 at 6:19 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
>
> However, as an installer, it is much easier to do an STC installation
> versus a field approval. For an STC I just install per the plans and fill
> out a 337 form. No approval needed from anyone. Send
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
Exactly.
Jesse Saint A&P/IA
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 25, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Unless the installer holds Inspection Authorization or Repair Station lice
nse, the 337 must be approved by an IA confirming the install was done per t
he STC requirements. But that is only on type certificated aircraft.
>
>> On Thu, Dec 25, 2014 at 6:19 AM, Jesse Saint wr
ote:
>>
>> However, as an installer, it is much easier to do an STC installation v
ersus a field approval. For an STC I just install per the plans and fill out
a 337 form. No approval needed from anyone. Send
>
>
>
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
"For ADS-B, you could confirm your location and altitude with a controller who
is reading out your ADS-B info on his screen, document that in your logbook, and
meet their requirements (assuming that you are using a WAAS gps)."
If only it was this easy. One of the requirements on the position source is not
only that it is accurate, but thru some complicated calculation it will nearly
always be accurate, even with weird atmospherics or bad satellites. The "nearly
always" is defined as an error less than once per very large number(I forget
- ten million hours??).
OTOH, if you did use "certified" equipment, this could confirm that it was installed
correctly and working properly. In fact, there is an FAA web site or email
address that you can send an inquiry to, and it will tell you if your ADSB-out
signal agreed with radar and was otherwise all okay. Apparently there are
a number of planes out there right now thinking they're all set, but they are
sending out a non-comp0liance code due to some set up error.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436277#436277
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Bob Turner wrote:
> " In fact, there is an FAA web site or email address that you can send an inquiry
to, and it will tell you if your ADSB-out signal agreed with radar and was
otherwise all okay. Apparently there are a number of planes out there right
now thinking they're all set, but they are sending out a non-compliance code due
to some set up error.
This is the email address to have the FAA check your ADS-B "out" integrity.
9-AWA-AFS-300-ADSB-AvionicsCheck(at)faa.gov
Send an email with your tail number and ask for a performance check. They will
send you a report. It took me a few tries to get it working properly. I had the
right equipment, but needed a software update on my 430W and had to change a
couple of settings in the 430W and the 330ES. Gets a perfect report now.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436281#436281
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
| From: | "w8n2bup" <johnrich987(at)hotmail.com> |
Just a warning. I ordered upholstery from Flight Crafters in Florida three months
ago and they never sent the seats or returned my calls after cashing my check.
I'm out over 1000 dollars.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436289#436289
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: G3i Supercharging |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
A few of us have the G3i electronic ignition but I don't know of anyone with the
supercharger.
The ignition has been working great and the support from Thomas is awesome.
--------
Lenny
N311LZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436300#436300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: G3i Supercharging |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
it looks like it's + 40lbs exactly where the RV10 doesn;t need any
additional weight.
On Fri, Dec 26, 2014 at 9:03 PM, Lenny Iszak
wrote:
>
> A few of us have the G3i electronic ignition but I don't know of anyone
> with the supercharger.
> The ignition has been working great and the support from Thomas is awesome.
>
> --------
> Lenny
> N311LZ
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436300#436300
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time for Front Seats |
| From: | Craig Rufi <craigr60(at)gmail.com> |
Thats info that should be sent on the forum so others don't use them. Sorry
for the info.
On Fri, Dec 26, 2014 at 10:43 AM, w8n2bup wrote:
>
> Just a warning. I ordered upholstery from Flight Crafters in Florida three
> months ago and they never sent the seats or returned my calls after cashing
> my check. I'm out over 1000 dollars.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436289#436289
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G3i Supercharging |
hi Justin, thanks for the info. I will have to see if i can rendezvous
with Tom some day to check out his setup. Maybe we can convince him to
do a setup in a -10!!! He will be more comfy in a -10 than in the
Starduster when going to Oshkosh, too! ;)
Cool. Thanks for the link to the forced airmotive site. That looks
interesting. They have addressed CofG issues by installing gear on the
back of the engine instead of on the front. Interesting that their
pricing seems quite a bit more than G3i's on the face of it.
Jae
On 12/26/2014 11:04 PM, Justin Jones wrote:
> Jae,
>
> I can tell you that it turns the 540 into a beast! I know Tom
> personally and have seen his starduster fly with the supercharger. He
> is an incredible engineer, and and his workmanship is second to none.
> He has flown it to Oshkosh and done many air shows with it as well.
> It is a very slick setup that works nicely. His G3i ignition is also
> very well thought out.
>
> Be sure to look at http://www.forcedaeromotive.com/ also. It is a
> different option altogether and the components they use for their kits
> can be purchased on the open market for cheaper than they offer on the
> website.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Justin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G3i Supercharging |
230 mph 0kts, which is Van's design limit. You do not want to be
cruising within 5kts of risking losing a control surface.
The planes that have turbo-normalizing, etc. did the aero engineering to
move the harmonic frequency to speeds they might encounter.
Vans chose not to for whatever reasons.
On 12/27/2014 3:45 PM, Jae Chang wrote:
>
> Personally, i would love to stay closer to 200 knots at altitude,
> which is within design limits. More speed or altitude certainly isn't
> for everyone. However, i would think having some options would be nice
> for those who might have specific needs for it. For instance Beech
> Bonanzas can have normalized, turbocharged, turbonormalized and maybe
> supercharged engines. Cirrus has had turbocharging available for some
> time, so they are probably filling a demand that is out there. I would
> think having some options would be attractive to some. It just seems
> the -10 is an oddball for not having similar options. As a cirrus or
> bonanza owner, it's nice that they have an upgrade path, even if that
> means selling their current normalized airplane for a TN or TC one.
>
> I know there are several other mods for the -10 to gain a few extra
> knots by spending plenty of additional money and time as well. This
> supercharging option however gives potentially 100's of HP gain.
>
> Someone created a turbine -10 but it's arguably impractical in our
> airframe, at least for me.
>
> I'm sure someone able to take on the supercharging upgrade could
> figure out the CofG issues. Lightweight composite prop?
>
> Jae
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | fuel tank senders |
I=99m about to install the stock float type fuel tank senders. The
plans have you check for interference with tank structure before you
close up the tank. Not an option with a quick built wing. I have
carefully bent the float arms to the specs in the plans, but have not
figured out a way of seeing if there is any interference in the tank,
short of putting gas in (or water) and draining it out. Has anyone come
up with another way to do this? I am also thinking about using Permatex,
aviation form-a-gasket to seal the float flange to the tank skin instead
of Proseal, in case of an interference problem necessitating removal.
Has anyone done this and does it work?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank senders |
You just have to bend it and hope for the best. Worse case, you won't read a
s high as you otherwise may. The low end should still be fine.
The gasket that comes with the sender can seal it. Something like you propos
e can help with the gasket. If you end up with a leak you can use some Prose
al around the outside.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 27, 2014, at 8:23 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
>
> I=99m about to install the stock float type fuel tank senders. The p
lans have you check for interference with tank structure before you close up
the tank. Not an option with a quick built wing. I have carefully bent the f
loat arms to the specs in the plans, but have not figured out a way of seein
g if there is any interference in the tank, short of putting gas in (or wate
r) and draining it out. Has anyone come up with another way to do this? I am
also thinking about using Permatex, aviation form-a-gasket to seal the floa
t flange to the tank skin instead of Proseal, in case of an interference pro
blem necessitating removal. Has anyone done this and does it work?
> Chris Hukill
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank senders |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
When I installed mine in the QB wings I ended up having a little interference,
which I did not find out about until I started adding fuel. I installed them
with the tanks removed from the wings and tipped them upside down to see if I
could here them hitting, which I did not. Maybe you can find someone with one
of the dental cameras to stick in the outlet hole or snake in from the top.
You can measure the resistance prior to installing them and then tip them upside
down to see if the resistance values end to end are the same.
I used Permatex non-hardening, which I have used before for this purpose. I only
will use the cork gaskets. I have never had any leaks using this method.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436345#436345
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Faston grounding strip |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
I'm wondering if there is a need for a faston multipoint grounding strip on the
engine side of the firewall if using the Garmin engine monitoring kit. Do the
EGT, CHT, etc probes need a discrete ground for each?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436347#436347
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Faston grounding strip |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Most EFIS vendor supplied harness will have a ground wire in the bundle going back
to the EFIS if required. Both egt and cht cables are two conductor and terminate
at the EFIS.
Besides the engine and alternator grounds which can't use faston connectors, I
think I only had a couple faston connectors used for grounding. It really will
depend on what devices you've installed forward of the firewall.
I used a B&C forest of tabs with tabs on both side of the firewall. The cabin
side is 100% full and the engine side only has a couple used.
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 27, 2014, at 11:56 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
>
> I'm wondering if there is a need for a faston multipoint grounding strip on the
engine side of the firewall if using the Garmin engine monitoring kit. Do the
EGT, CHT, etc probes need a discrete ground for each?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436347#436347
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston grounding strip |
I too used the B&C Forrest of tabs, but I only used it on the interior of the plane.
I think there were 2-4 grounds I needed FWF and I just ran them back into
the interior.
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 sold
RV-10 flying
KitFox under construction
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 28, 2014, at 5:38 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> Most EFIS vendor supplied harness will have a ground wire in the bundle going
back to the EFIS if required. Both egt and cht cables are two conductor and
terminate at the EFIS.
>
> Besides the engine and alternator grounds which can't use faston connectors,
I think I only had a couple faston connectors used for grounding. It really
will depend on what devices you've installed forward of the firewall.
>
> I used a B&C forest of tabs with tabs on both side of the firewall. The cabin
side is 100% full and the engine side only has a couple used.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Dec 27, 2014, at 11:56 PM, bob88 wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm wondering if there is a need for a faston multipoint grounding strip on
the engine side of the firewall if using the Garmin engine monitoring kit. Do
the EGT, CHT, etc probes need a discrete ground for each?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436347#436347
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Faston grounding strip |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
thanks guys
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436356#436356
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank senders |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I played with that a lot until I got it to work right. Also my fuel vent B-nut
was leaking on one tank, so i had to remove the sender again. I've heard of that
happening to so many people with quickbuilt tanks that I probably wouldn't
even proseal in the sender until i put a wrench on that b-nut.
First measure the resistance of the sender with the arm up and down to see what
the maximum travel is both ways.
Insert a loop of a 24 ga tefzel wire through the top hole of the sender and wrap
it around the sender arm in a way that when you pull on the wire it will move
the arm up until it tops out on the skin of the tank. Put in the sender, thread
in all the screws except the top one with the wire. Connect your ohm meter
and see if you get close to full travel.
The original rubber gasket that comes with the sender ends up leaking over time,
so you can skip using that and just use proseal around the sender plate and
the screws. You can later remove the proseal with an acrylic scraper from Spruce
# 12-03310. Cuts nicely and it doesn't scratch the aluminum rib under the sender
plate. Use it as a blade to cut the proseal instead of scraping it.
The last time I removed mine I got tired of the proseal and used screws with integrated viton o-rings (mcmaster #90825A387) and a viton gasket (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0075EBPKS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). No leaks so far for the last 7 months or so.
At some dumb moment I forgot to put the last 90 degree bend in the float arm wire,
and when I put fuel in the tank the arm twisted in the plastic and dropped
to the bottom of the tank measuring zero fuel... luckily i got back some of my
self respect when i found out on one of the forums that someone else did the
same... Not a lot of fun when on your third flight the fuel in one tank drops
to zero.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436364#436364
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Holes in the Landing Gear Mounts |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Another problem with those holes...I can't get them to line up with the holes in
the seat rail and seat bottom. The mid seat rail supports are bolted into the
landing gear mount (after much frustration) but they are half a hole too far
forward. Can't move them back because the rear flanges on the mid seat rail supports
are right up against the landing gear mount and it would be necessary
to elongate the holes in the bottom of the mid seat rail support in any case.
Anyone else with this problem? Solutions?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436371#436371
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: G3i Supercharging |
| From: | "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com> |
I always wonder about these folks that think you can just add a 100 or more horsepower
to an airframe and figure there will be no issues...
Seems to me that they didn't ask themselves what their mission profile was before
they chose the -10. If you want to fly in the flight levels at speeds greater
than 200 KTAS, then the -10 is probably not the aircraft for your mission.
Why try and make it something it is not? Especially when it could very well cost
you your life...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436372#436372
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | propellor governor |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
I have a new governor from Vans (but not a Vans supplied engine). The model is
MT P-860-3. The spec sheet says it is for a Lyc IO 360 but I thought I got it
for the IO 540...is the governor OK for either engine?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436467#436467
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: propellor governor |
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Bob that's what they sent me for my IO 540. I just rotated the control arm
on mine for proper alignment with the prop cable. If you're interested,
search "MT P-860-3 Governor rotation" on VAF.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 4:56 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> I have a new governor from Vans (but not a Vans supplied engine). The
> model is MT P-860-3. The spec sheet says it is for a Lyc IO 360 but I
> thought I got it for the IO 540...is the governor OK for either engine?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436467#436467
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PlaneAround 180 Degree Centre Latch Installation Instructions |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Happy New Year to all my RV-10 colleagues, may you all have a safe flying ye
ar.
Could anyone please send me a link or a copy of the installation instruction
s for the Plane Around 180 degree centre latch for the RV-10 doors. I just c
an seem to find them!
Many thanks in anticipation.
Warm regards and thanks
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
> On 1 Jan 2015, at 08:50, Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Bob that's what they sent me for my IO 540. I just rotated the control ar
m on mine for proper alignment with the prop cable. If you're interested, s
earch "MT P-860-3 Governor rotation" on VAF.
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>> On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 4:56 PM, bob88 wrote:
>>
>> I have a new governor from Vans (but not a Vans supplied engine). The mod
el is MT P-860-3. The spec sheet says it is for a Lyc IO 360 but I thought I
got it for the IO 540...is the governor OK for either engine?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436467#436467
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PlaneAround 180 Degree Centre Latch Installation Instructions |
sent as PM
On 01.01.2015 01:55, Patrick Pulis wrote:
> Happy New Year to all my RV-10 colleagues, may you all have a safe
> flying year.
>
> Could anyone please send me a link or a copy of the installation
> instructions for the Plane Around 180 degree centre latch for the RV-10
> doors. I just can seem to find them!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: propellor governor |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Nice to see that nothing has changed at Van's. They only sell the governor
with the gear ratio for the narrow deck engine, because that is what 410RV
was built with. Of course all the engines they sell are new wide deck which
is supposed to have a different gear ratio. MT P-860-5 if I recall
correctly is the correct one and only needs some repositioning of the arm,
depending on whether you run the cable below or above the cylinders.
On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 3:20 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Bob that's what they sent me for my IO 540. I just rotated the control
> arm on mine for proper alignment with the prop cable. If you're
> interested, search "MT P-860-3 Governor rotation" on VAF.
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
> On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 4:56 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
>>
>> I have a new governor from Vans (but not a Vans supplied engine). The
>> model is MT P-860-3. The spec sheet says it is for a Lyc IO 360 but I
>> thought I got it for the IO 540...is the governor OK for either engine?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: propellor governor |
As Kelly says the P-860-3 fits the narrow deck engine, which is what mine is
.
Rick
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 1, 2015, at 10:26 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Nice to see that nothing has changed at Van's. They only sell the governor
with the gear ratio for the narrow deck engine, because that is what 410RV w
as built with. Of course all the engines they sell are new wide deck which i
s supposed to have a different gear ratio. MT P-860-5 if I recall correctly i
s the correct one and only needs some repositioning of the arm, depending on
whether you run the cable below or above the cylinders.
>
>> On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 3:20 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>> Bob that's what they sent me for my IO 540. I just rotated the control a
rm on mine for proper alignment with the prop cable. If you're interested, s
earch "MT P-860-3 Governor rotation" on VAF.
>> Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>>> On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 4:56 PM, bob88 wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a new governor from Vans (but not a Vans supplied engine). The mo
del is MT P-860-3. The spec sheet says it is for a Lyc IO 360 but I thought I
got it for the IO 540...is the governor OK for either engine?
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: propellor governor |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Well, I bought the Hartzel governor directly from Vans, and it works fine.
[quote="Kelly McMullen"]Nice to see that nothing has changed at Van's. They only
sell the governor with the gear ratio for the narrow deck engine, because that
is what 410RV was built with. Of course all the engines they sell are new wide
deck which is supposed to have a different gear ratio. MT P-860-5 if I recall
correctly is the correct one and only needs some repositioning of the arm,
depending on whether you run the cable below or above the cylinders.
On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 3:20 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Bob that's what they sent me for my IO 540. I just rotated the control arm on
mine for proper alignment with the prop cable. If you're interested, search "MT
P-860-3 Governor rotation" on VAF.
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 4:56 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> >
> > I have a new governor from Vans (but not a Vans supplied engine). The model
is MT P-860-3. The spec sheet says it is for a Lyc IO 360 but I thought I got
it for the IO 540...is the governor OK for either engine?
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> [b]
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436518#436518
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: propellor governor |
Well, the question was concerning the MT P-860-3.
I don't know how Hartzell deals with the differing gear ratio (gears)
inside the Lycoming narrow deck vs wide deck. Until about 3-4 years ago
Vans only offered the MT P-860-3.
On 1/1/2015 9:04 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Well, I bought the Hartzel governor directly from Vans, and it works fine.
>
> [quote="Kelly McMullen"]Nice to see that nothing has changed at Van's. They only
sell the governor with the gear ratio for the narrow deck engine, because
that is what 410RV was built with. Of course all the engines they sell are new
wide deck which is supposed to have a different gear ratio. MT P-860-5 if I recall
correctly is the correct one and only needs some repositioning of the arm,
depending on whether you run the cable below or above the cylinders.
>
> On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 3:20 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
>> Bob that's what they sent me for my IO 540. I just rotated the control arm on
mine for proper alignment with the prop cable. If you're interested, search
"MT P-860-3 Governor rotation" on VAF.
>> Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 4:56 PM, bob88 wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I have a new governor from Vans (but not a Vans supplied engine). The model
is MT P-860-3. The spec sheet says it is for a Lyc IO 360 but I thought I got
it for the IO 540...is the governor OK for either engine?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>> [b]
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436518#436518
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New (Free) Aviation App |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com> |
"Airport Courtesy Cars" is a new Google Play/Apple iPhone app that lists over 1100
airports nationwide that have crew/courtesy cars. Make sure you search for
it in the phone store, as searching from a tablet won't work. You can load
it on an iPad by changing the search function in the app store from iPad apps
to iPhone apps.You can dial the listing directly from the app to see if a car
is available. If you have a listing that I missed, or a correction, you can email
me via the app, or to airportcars101(at)gmail.com. Thanks for looking. Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
1952 Piper Tri-Pacer
Medevac Helicopter Driver
Tucson, Arizona
Owner, www.RVairspace.com and "Airport Courtesy Cars" Smart Phone App
www.RVairspace.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436584#436584
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Heat Cables |
After 500 hours I have a second cabin heat cable that has seized. Anybody
else have the same problem? Is there a solution other than changing the
cable.
Thanks for the help...
Rene'
N423CF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting the Baffles |
| From: | Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com> |
Are there any protective benefits to painting the baffles? Or do most just
let their baffles go au naturel?
Paint, clear coat, or primer? What products can take the heat and are safe
to use?
--
Vernon Franklin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the Baffles |
Vernon, I had my baffles powder coated. I would do it again no
question. They have stayed very nice and are easy to clean.
Bob Newman
N541RV
From: Vernon Franklin
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2015 12:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Painting the Baffles
Are there any protective benefits to painting the baffles? Or do most
just let their baffles go au naturel?
Paint, clear coat, or primer? What products can take the heat and are
safe to use?
--
Vernon Franklin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cables |
Rene',
An alternative to the mechanical cables is our CVS-kit. Its a linear
actuator and controller that mounts to the firewall and the flapper door
arm, no more push pull cable.
All the details are on our web site. Here's the link to the web page for
CVS-kit: http://www.tcwtech.com/control_valve_servo_kit.html
Thanks,
Bob Newman
N541RV
-----Original Message-----
From: Rene
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2015 9:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Heat Cables
After 500 hours I have a second cabin heat cable that has seized. Anybody
else have the same problem? Is there a solution other than changing the
cable.
Thanks for the help...
Rene'
N423CF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the Baffles |
I second Bob. Powder coat is the way to go
Geoff Combs
Sent from my iPhone
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling & Design
> On Jan 4, 2015, at 7:17 AM, "Bob-tcw" wrote:
>
> Vernon, I had my baffles powder coated. I would do it again no quest
ion. They have stayed very nice and are easy to clean.
>
> Bob Newman
> N541RV
>
>
>
> From: Vernon Franklin
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2015 12:09 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Painting the Baffles
>
> Are there any protective benefits to painting the baffles? Or do most jus
t let their baffles go au naturel?
>
> Paint, clear coat, or primer? What products can take the heat and are saf
e to use?
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William DeLacey <whd721(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
I am in the final throes of finishing my RV. I have discovered the
dreaded Matco parking brake leak.
Can any one point me to the most probable leak source on the valve
itself?
I have already added del seals and thread sealant to my fittings per
previous posts. Now it appears the leak is in the valve itself.
I am dreading the trip back there, my ribs are still sore from the first
attempt.
I am tempted to fabricate a tiny drip bucket.
> On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:20 AM, Bill Watson
wrote:
>
> On 12/14/2014 10:20 PM, David Saylor wrote:
>> I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type thread sealants. I
prefer Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
>>
>> --Dave
> I've used no sealant as well as several teflon past-type sealeants as
well and had both brake line and oil line leaks. I've had leaks. The
Form-a-Gasket sounds like a solution - wish I found out sooner.
>
> While chasing the equivalent Loctite product, I finally found and used
this - Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant #56521
<http://www.all-spec.com/products/56521.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9
s75m-wBEiQATOxgwbjm5OL7j5P-fO3P5Xl_vLOYfoGKsQN5ROwKbGZbi2MaAor28P8HAQ>.
This too is a solution.
>
> They have a half dozen similar products but this works reliably and
easily on high pressure tapered fittings. Little is required, it
doesn't harden, it seems to cure instantly and simply doesn't leak. It
works so well in comparison to the other products, I'm not sure how it
does it but does.
>
> On a non-aviation note: I recently had the need to fix several water
line breaks (black poly pipe). The landscape guys fixed it with gray PVC
push in fittings and a white PVC cap on a tapered fitting. They all
leaked very slowly. They thought it was the push in barb fitting and
kept putting extra and new hose clamps on it but I could see it was the
white threaded cap on the gray threaded fitting. The cap would
inevitably break before one could tighten it enough to stop the leak.
>
> One light application of #56521 and no leaks - didn't even have to
cinch it down very far. And the fittings were easily removeable with no
dried up sealant pieces to get clean up and keep out of sensitive
systems. I've done about 6 of these now - same results. I found the
same with a slow leaking oil cooler fitting on the '10.
>
>
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
<http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
<http://www.mypilotstore.com/>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You might give it a little time. I'm sure the years between production and
introduction of brake fluid into he valve don't do the O-rings any good. I
went for Permatex high performance thread seal, which I think is a little
better than your average teflon paste. I got lucky, and the sealant on the
pipe threads and DEL seals on the flare fittings stopped my leakage.
On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 3:12 PM, William DeLacey wrote:
> I am in the final throes of finishing my RV. I have discovered the
> dreaded Matco parking brake leak.
> Can any one point me to the most probable leak source on the valve itself?
>
> I have already added del seals and thread sealant to my fittings per
> previous posts. Now it appears the leak is in the valve itself.
> I am dreading the trip back there, my ribs are still sore from the first
> attempt.
>
> I am tempted to fabricate a tiny drip bucket.
>
> On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:20 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> On 12/14/2014 10:20 PM, David Saylor wrote:
>
> I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type thread sealants. I prefer
> Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
>
> --Dave
>
> I've used no sealant as well as several teflon past-type sealeants as
> well and had both brake line and oil line leaks. I've had leaks. The
> Form-a-Gasket sounds like a solution - wish I found out sooner.
>
> While chasing the equivalent Loctite product, I finally found and used
> this - Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant #56521
> <http://www.all-spec.com/products/56521.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9s75m-wBEiQATOxgwbjm5OL7j5P-fO3P5Xl_vLOYfoGKsQN5ROwKbGZbi2MaAor28P8HAQ>.
> This too is a solution.
>
> They have a half dozen similar products but this works reliably and easily
> on high pressure tapered fittings. Little is required, it doesn't harden,
> it seems to cure instantly and simply doesn't leak. It works so well in
> comparison to the other products, I'm not sure how it does it but does.
>
> On a non-aviation note: I recently had the need to fix several water line
> breaks (black poly pipe). The landscape guys fixed it with gray PVC push in
> fittings and a white PVC cap on a tapered fitting. They all leaked very
> slowly. They thought it was the push in barb fitting and kept putting
> extra and new hose clamps on it but I could see it was the white threaded
> cap on the gray threaded fitting. The cap would inevitably break before
> one could tighten it enough to stop the leak.
>
> One light application of #56521 and no leaks - didn't even have to cinch
> it down very far. And the fittings were easily removeable with no dried up
> sealant pieces to get clean up and keep out of sensitive systems. I've
> done about 6 of these now - same results. I found the same with a slow
> leaking oil cooler fitting on the '10.
>
> *
>
> class="">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/ " class="">www.buildersbooks.com
> class="">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
> class="">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
> class="">www.mrrace.com <http://www.mrrace.com>
> class="">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> class="">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> class="">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting the Baffles |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I left mine as they came from Van's. The rubber seals leave marks on the bare aluminum
from vibrations and probably would on painted surfaces too. I clean the
bugs off occassionally. Nobody will see in there except you and the bugs. Your
red inlet plugs go in after opening the oil door for a short cool down. It
is just money, time, weight and of course all yours to do as you wish. It is a
great plane either way.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436637#436637
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cables |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Mine almost stuck the one day. Lubricate them and actuate them on every flight.
No more issues.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436638#436638
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: propellor governor |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I have flown with my -3 for three years. It is perfect.
The -3 or -5 refers to splined control arm position and max rpm adjustment. Both
can be adjusted. Contact MT if you must. I already did 3 1/2 yrs ago. 1-386-736-7762.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436639#436639
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heater control cables |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Same here in Ky. Below 60F OAT, you need it and it works very well. Above 90F in
a 105 kt climb, I wish my SCAT was bigger. It is easy enough to lower the nose
to 120 kt and it easily stays below 220F(my limit).
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436640#436640
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glare screen |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
My glare shield and the white tube(that is in many pics) is all flat black. I installed
two 80 mm computer fans for cooling/defrosting blowing straight up on
the windshield in front of you. Works great, run them on every flight.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436641#436641
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Engine Questions |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
I would go with the three blade Hartzell for less vibration if doing it over and
I had plenty of money in the bank. Who cares about a few knots on a 3-4 hr trip.
Just get to the airport 10 minutes earlier.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436642#436642
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Engine Questions |
| From: | William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> |
Reports I have heard say that the two blade can be just as smooth if you
get it dynamically balanced.
On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 11:54 PM, rv10flyer
wrote:
>
> I would go with the three blade Hartzell for less vibration if doing it
> over and I had plenty of money in the bank. Who cares about a few knots on
> a 3-4 hr trip. Just get to the airport 10 minutes earlier.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436642#436642
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Engine Questions |
A two blade can be made relatively smooth with dynamic balancing. It
will not be as smooth as a balanced 3 blade. Simple physics.
A six cylinder fires every 120 degrees. A three bladed prop has the
blades 120 degrees apart. Same reason a 2 blade is smoother on a 4 cyl
engine than a 3 blade, because a 4 cyl fires every 180 degrees.
A composite prop, whether carbon fiber, or fiberglass over wood will be
smoother than a metal blade, because the composite blades have some flex
and absorb vibration. Composite blades allow more optimization of blade
shape than is possible with metal, so they tend to have less speed
difference than a metal 3 blade. I've seen many reports of 3 bladed
composite giving up no detectable speed to a 2 blade metal prop.
However, blades cost money, composite costs money. So 2 blade aluminum
will always be your lowest cost if marketing doesn't play games.
On 1/5/2015 7:32 AM, William Greenley wrote:
> Reports I have heard say that the two blade can be just as smooth if
> you get it dynamically balanced.
>
> On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 11:54 PM, rv10flyer > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I would go with the three blade Hartzell for less vibration if
> doing it over and I had plenty of money in the bank. Who cares
> about a few knots on a 3-4 hr trip. Just get to the airport 10
> minutes earlier.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436642#436642
>
>
> ==========
> br> fts!)
> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
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> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ==========
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
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> ==========
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Anyone with experience using the Rod Bower ram air unit in place of the Vans air
box and filter?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436651#436651
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Engine Questions |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Mine has been dynamically balanced and I have flown behind both props. I just did
not have the funds for the upgrade. We still love our family hauler.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436652#436652
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Yes. I have one and probably wouldn't install it if I did another build.
It does work as advertised, but there is no data that compares it in a standard
configuration. Open it will increase manifold pressure. Closed because its
using air from the cowl, it's unclear if running in a reduced power state.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 5, 2015, at 11:22 AM, bob88 wrote:
Anyone with experience using the Rod Bower ram air unit in place of the Vans air
box and filter?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436651#436651
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
I presume there is no need for alternate air with the Bower unit as it seems to
be using alternate air whenever closed in any case. Alternate air in my Cessna
causes significant drop in MP relative to regular intake through the air filter.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436654#436654
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
The drop in MP is what I alluded to in my previous email.
There are folks that believe that the use of the hotter cowl air yields a lower
MP than the stand intake with a filter. I typically get 27.7 MP.
Since there has been no test on the same aircraft and engine, there is no data
to prove or disprove that theory.
The other non-answered question is with the ram air, how much more MP is there
over a standard configuration with filtered air?
It is true you get about an inch of boost between closed an open, buts unclear
to me if it really benefits over a standard installation.
I knob that I seem to be a tad slower than Geoff's and about the same as Dana's.
What is causing the differences is yet to be determined. Different air filters,
fuel injection, electronic ignition, etc could also have an impact.
It's just darn impossible to get the data to do a more scientific comparison.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 5, 2015, at 12:22 PM, bob88 wrote:
I presume there is no need for alternate air with the Bower unit as it seems to
be using alternate air whenever closed in any case. Alternate air in my Cessna
causes significant drop in MP relative to regular intake through the air filter.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436654#436654
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lee Otto" <lotto(at)ciembroidery.com> |
| Subject: | Rod Bowers Ram Air |
Marty/Bob88
I've been flying with Rod Bowers Ram Air for the last year and a half and
over 170 hours. At cruise 75% power I can get an additional 1.5 inches of
MP and I'm regularly getting 174 & 175K true airspeed at that power.
I would install it again. I believe the quality of the components and the
new scoop (my scoop is removable without removing the lower cowl) make the
addition worth it. I think this installation is more robust than the stock
air filter system from Van's. I don't have data on any MP loss while
running through the filter but in my opinion it's not very much. The
airplane performs so well on takeoff and climb with the Ram Air off that I'm
not at all concerned. If I want extra power like at Lake Tahoe in the
summer I just open the Ram Air on the runway and then open the throttle and
the airplane seems to leap into the air. It's an amazing airplane and
I've flown all the big single engine airplanes from Beech, Cessna and Piper
and nothing I've flown is even close to this one.
Lee Otto
N326JL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Freeflight 1201 - Which Antenna do you use? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Call Freeflight. Since this box carries a TSO I'd expect the TSO requires certain
specified antenna(s).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436812#436812
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone made anything for the seat tilt lever to make it a little more ergonomic?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436848#436848
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Not really a big deal, I swapped seat levers and inverted them which works better,
but maybe there's a plastic or rubber tip to finish the look and provide a
small extension?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436891#436891
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
I have the original Vans supplied gas struts for the doors. Should I just install
these and wait for them to fail, thereafter installing the heavy duty gas
struts, or replace with the heavy duty versions from the outset?
Could someone please provide the Vans part number for the heavy duty gas struts
please, or is there an alternative supplier?
Warm regards from downunder
Patrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com> |
Great idea! Wish I had thought of it before!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 12, 2015, at 11:42 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> Not really a big deal, I swapped seat levers and inverted them which works better,
but maybe there's a plastic or rubber tip to finish the look and provide
a small extension?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436891#436891
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
Just search the "list" for struts and it will be obvious. There are other sources
that are less expensive, but I can't comment on shipping down under.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 12, 2015, at 2:39 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
I have the original Vans supplied gas struts for the doors. Should I just install
these and wait for them to fail, thereafter installing the heavy duty gas
struts, or replace with the heavy duty versions from the outset?
Could someone please provide the Vans part number for the heavy duty gas struts
please, or is there an alternative supplier?
Warm regards from downunder
Patrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I have the standard issue Van's struts that have been installed for about three
years. I have been flying since May for about 125 hours. My doors are heavier
than most as I have the cavities insulated, an armrest, and Sean's door system,
and even in breezes, I have yet to have a door come down unexpectedly. If/when
they do fail, I will probably upgrade to the higher compression system,
but in the meantime I have no complaints about the originals.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436907#436907
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
I would try the supplied struts first. I haven't had any issue with the
supplied struts, but I think it depends on how much extra "stuff" is
applied to the door interior.
-Sean #40303 (waiting for my paint slot to open up)
> Patrick Pulis
> January 12, 2015 at 1:39 PM
>
> I have the original Vans supplied gas struts for the doors. Should I
> just install these and wait for them to fail, thereafter installing
> the heavy duty gas struts, or replace with the heavy duty versions
> from the outset?
>
> Could someone please provide the Vans part number for the heavy duty
> gas struts please, or is there an alternative supplier?
>
>
> Warm regards from downunder
>
> Patrick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
I agree. If you own them, you may as well use them for now. I've got
the same ones on that Van's sent me in what, 2005?? And they're still
working out. I think in the last year they are weakening a little,
but 9 years of flying for almost 1100 hours will do that I guess.
I have fabric applied to the door, so heavier materials may make
it worse and lighter materials or no materials may make it better.
I did paint the doors before applying fabric.
So, you may as well try them.
Tim
On 1/12/2015 3:06 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I would try the supplied struts first. I haven't had any issue with the
> supplied struts, but I think it depends on how much extra "stuff" is
> applied to the door interior.
>
> -Sean #40303 (waiting for my paint slot to open up)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
As time mentioned, the stock struts will work fine for you for a while if your
door isn't built extra heavy. I have seen some doors that were so heavy the new
standard struts wouldn't hold them open. On the other hand, I have seen strut
brackets broken because the heavy duty strut was installed on a light-weight
door and constantly slamming open eventually broke the bracket. The heavy duty
struts on a standard door will open the door from all the way closed if it is
unlatched. I don't like that. I want the door to open all the way when I lift
it by hand, but I like to be able to lower it and have it stay down even if
I don't latch it.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
> On Jan 12, 2015, at 4:25 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I agree. If you own them, you may as well use them for now. I've got
> the same ones on that Van's sent me in what, 2005?? And they're still
> working out. I think in the last year they are weakening a little,
> but 9 years of flying for almost 1100 hours will do that I guess.
> I have fabric applied to the door, so heavier materials may make
> it worse and lighter materials or no materials may make it better.
> I did paint the doors before applying fabric.
>
> So, you may as well try them.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> On 1/12/2015 3:06 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>> I would try the supplied struts first. I haven't had any issue with the
>> supplied struts, but I think it depends on how much extra "stuff" is
>> applied to the door interior.
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (waiting for my paint slot to open up)
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I agree with using the stock struts and see how they work for you. I have had stock
struts since the beginning. My doors have the Iflyrv10.com flush door handles
that probably add a little bit of weight, but not much. The originals lasted
about 5 years and 600 hours and then started getting just a bit weak in cold
conditions. They were OK in warm conditions. I ordered new stock struts from
Van's a couple of years ago and replaced them at the next condition inspection.
They are doing fine. I agree with Jesse in that I don't want to have a door
that will not stay down when not latched nor one that springs up aggressively
when unlatched.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436922#436922
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Tim said what I was thinking. If you've already bought them, then get the
useful life out of them. You've paid for it already. Then order some HD's
when you need them later on.
My standard ones lasted about 2.5 years and I'm replacing them this week.
On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 3:40 PM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
>
> As time mentioned, the stock struts will work fine for you for a while if
> your door isn't built extra heavy. I have seen some doors that were so
> heavy the new standard struts wouldn't hold them open. On the other hand, I
> have seen strut brackets broken because the heavy duty strut was installed
> on a light-weight door and constantly slamming open eventually broke the
> bracket. The heavy duty struts on a standard door will open the door from
> all the way closed if it is unlatched. I don't like that. I want the door
> to open all the way when I lift it by hand, but I like to be able to lower
> it and have it stay down even if I don't latch it.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> > On Jan 12, 2015, at 4:25 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I agree. If you own them, you may as well use them for now. I've got
> > the same ones on that Van's sent me in what, 2005?? And they're still
> > working out. I think in the last year they are weakening a little,
> > but 9 years of flying for almost 1100 hours will do that I guess.
> > I have fabric applied to the door, so heavier materials may make
> > it worse and lighter materials or no materials may make it better.
> > I did paint the doors before applying fabric.
> >
> > So, you may as well try them.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
> >
> > On 1/12/2015 3:06 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
> >>
> >> I would try the supplied struts first. I haven't had any issue with the
> >> supplied struts, but I think it depends on how much extra "stuff" is
> >> applied to the door interior.
> >>
> >> -Sean #40303 (waiting for my paint slot to open up)
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
Mine didn't even last till first flight. Bought 600N struts from
Bansbach. E2A1F50-100-290/600N.
Linn
On 1/12/2015 7:58 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Tim said what I was thinking. If you've already bought them, then get
> the useful life out of them. You've paid for it already. Then order
> some HD's when you need them later on.
>
> My standard ones lasted about 2.5 years and I'm replacing them this week.
>
> On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 3:40 PM, Jesse Saint > wrote:
>
> >
>
> As time mentioned, the stock struts will work fine for you for a
> while if your door isn't built extra heavy. I have seen some doors
> that were so heavy the new standard struts wouldn't hold them
> open. On the other hand, I have seen strut brackets broken because
> the heavy duty strut was installed on a light-weight door and
> constantly slamming open eventually broke the bracket. The heavy
> duty struts on a standard door will open the door from all the way
> closed if it is unlatched. I don't like that. I want the door to
> open all the way when I lift it by hand, but I like to be able to
> lower it and have it stay down even if I don't latch it.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> > On Jan 12, 2015, at 4:25 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > I agree. If you own them, you may as well use them for now.
> I've got
> > the same ones on that Van's sent me in what, 2005?? And they're
> still
> > working out. I think in the last year they are weakening a little,
> > but 9 years of flying for almost 1100 hours will do that I guess.
> > I have fabric applied to the door, so heavier materials may make
> > it worse and lighter materials or no materials may make it better.
> > I did paint the doors before applying fabric.
> >
> > So, you may as well try them.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
> >
> > On 1/12/2015 3:06 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I would try the supplied struts first. I haven't had any issue
> with the
> >> supplied struts, but I think it depends on how much extra
> "stuff" is
> >> applied to the door interior.
> >>
> >> -Sean #40303 (waiting for my paint slot to open up)
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> br> fts!)
> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ==========
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com> |
I had the same problem as Linn. The second I put the windows in the doors,
the struts were no longer strong enough to hold the doors open. Both of my
struts failed in this way. Van's just shrugged it off, and tried to sell
me the heavy duty struts for $130 each.
I went with Bansbach. Very quick turn around time.
easylift.com
Item #: AF051-077
Part Description: A1A1F50-100-287/600N
$48 each.
On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 7:22 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> Mine didn't even last till first flight. Bought 600N struts from
> Bansbach. E2A1F50-100-290/600N.
> Linn
>
>
> On 1/12/2015 7:58 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Tim said what I was thinking. If you've already bought them, then get the
> useful life out of them. You've paid for it already. Then order some HD's
> when you need them later on.
>
> My standard ones lasted about 2.5 years and I'm replacing them this week.
>
> On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 3:40 PM, Jesse Saint
> wrote:
>
>>
>> As time mentioned, the stock struts will work fine for you for a while if
>> your door isn't built extra heavy. I have seen some doors that were so
>> heavy the new standard struts wouldn't hold them open. On the other hand, I
>> have seen strut brackets broken because the heavy duty strut was installed
>> on a light-weight door and constantly slamming open eventually broke the
>> bracket. The heavy duty struts on a standard door will open the door from
>> all the way closed if it is unlatched. I don't like that. I want the door
>> to open all the way when I lift it by hand, but I like to be able to lower
>> it and have it stay down even if I don't latch it.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> > On Jan 12, 2015, at 4:25 PM, Tim Olson
>> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > I agree. If you own them, you may as well use them for now. I've got
>> > the same ones on that Van's sent me in what, 2005?? And they're still
>> > working out. I think in the last year they are weakening a little,
>> > but 9 years of flying for almost 1100 hours will do that I guess.
>> > I have fabric applied to the door, so heavier materials may make
>> > it worse and lighter materials or no materials may make it better.
>> > I did paint the doors before applying fabric.
>> >
>> > So, you may as well try them.
>> >
>> > Tim
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On 1/12/2015 3:06 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> >> I would try the supplied struts first. I haven't had any issue with
>> the
>> >> supplied struts, but I think it depends on how much extra "stuff" is
>> >> applied to the door interior.
>> >>
>> >> -Sean #40303 (waiting for my paint slot to open up)
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01/12/15
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Vernon Franklin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
Tim, since yours have lasted so long.... do you leave the doors in the open
position when the plane is hangared?=C2- I try to do this as I think it
helps the seals.Don McDonald
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2015 4:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation
I agree with using the stock struts and see how they work for you. I have h
ad stock struts since the beginning. My doors have the Iflyrv10.com flush d
oor handles that probably add a little bit of weight, but not much. The ori
ginals lasted about 5 years and 600 hours and then started getting just a b
it weak in cold conditions. They were OK in warm conditions. I ordered new
stock struts from Van's a couple of years ago and replaced them at the next
condition inspection. They are doing fine. I agree with Jesse in that I do
n't want to have a door that will not stay down when not latched nor one th
at springs up aggressively when unlatched.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436922#436922
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
S -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
Hi Don,
Yeah, generally I do. My hangar is sealed up pretty well and I don't
get birds or even much dust in it. So I leave the doors open.
I have closed them for extended periods a bunch of times, mind you,
but in general I leave them open.
I'm not sure why mine have lasted so long, but they have. I'm
sure I've got more hours left in them.
Tim
On 1/13/2015 8:56 AM, Don McDonald wrote:
> Tim, since yours have lasted so long.... do you leave the doors in the
> open position when the plane is hangared? I try to do this as I think
> it helps the seals.
> Don McDonald
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
Don that's a good thought about leaving them open. Mine lasted about 2 yrs. a
nd then they would barely hold the doors open. My doors had no fabric or ad
ditional
Locks at that time also. Heavy duty
Were much better.
As Tim said use the stock ones till they drop
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling & Design
> On Jan 13, 2015, at 9:56 AM, Don McDonald wro
te:
>
> Tim, since yours have lasted so long.... do you leave the doors in the ope
n position when the plane is hangared? I try to do this as I think it helps
the seals.
> Don McDonald
>
> From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2015 4:03 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation
>
>
> I agree with using the stock struts and see how they work for you. I have h
ad stock struts since the beginning. My doors have the Iflyrv10.com flush do
or handles that probably add a little bit of weight, but not much. The origi
nals lasted about 5 years and 600 hours and then started getting just a bit w
eak in cold conditions. They were OK in warm conditions. I ordered new stock
struts from Van's a couple of years ago and replaced them at the next condi
tion inspection. They are doing fine. I agree with Jesse in that I don't wan
t to have a door that will not stay down when not latched nor one that sprin
gs up aggressively when unlatched.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.phref="http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution" target="_blank">http://wwwp; -Matt DraList" t
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.m
atron==================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
my standard struts lasted 4 years and still were ok unless i put the stratus 2
on them. so i replaced them with the heavy-duty ones.
alan
n668g
> On Jan 12, 2015, at 5:03 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote:
>
>
> I agree with using the stock struts and see how they work for you. I have had
stock struts since the beginning. My doors have the Iflyrv10.com flush door handles
that probably add a little bit of weight, but not much. The originals lasted
about 5 years and 600 hours and then started getting just a bit weak in
cold conditions. They were OK in warm conditions. I ordered new stock struts from
Van's a couple of years ago and replaced them at the next condition inspection.
They are doing fine. I agree with Jesse in that I don't want to have a door
that will not stay down when not latched nor one that springs up aggressively
when unlatched.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436922#436922
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Thanks for the great advice and shared experience once again guys.
I'm seeing a progressive end to this project (finally) and hope to meet most of
you during my travels to Oshkosh this coming July.
Thanks for all your help over the years.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 14 Jan 2015, at 01:58, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
>
> my standard struts lasted 4 years and still were ok unless i put the stratus
2 on them. so i replaced them with the heavy-duty ones.
> alan
> n668g
>> On Jan 12, 2015, at 5:03 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> I agree with using the stock struts and see how they work for you. I have had
stock struts since the beginning. My doors have the Iflyrv10.com flush door
handles that probably add a little bit of weight, but not much. The originals
lasted about 5 years and 600 hours and then started getting just a bit weak in
cold conditions. They were OK in warm conditions. I ordered new stock struts
from Van's a couple of years ago and replaced them at the next condition inspection.
They are doing fine. I agree with Jesse in that I don't want to have a
door that will not stay down when not latched nor one that springs up aggressively
when unlatched.
>>
>> --------
>> David Maib
>> RV-10 #40559
>> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436922#436922
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I actually had to start closing the doors. I kept finding dead flying crit
ters in the cabin. I still have a problem with flies in the hangar. It's
kind of funny to watch flies that barely have enough energy to fly a foot o
r two. I'm hoping the single digits we had last week did them all in.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 13, 2015, at 10:15 AM, g.combs wrot
e:
>
> Don that's a good thought about leaving them open. Mine lasted about 2 yrs
. and then they would barely hold the doors open. My doors had no fabric or
additional
> Locks at that time also. Heavy duty
> Were much better.
> As Tim said use the stock ones till they drop
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Geoff Combs
> Aerosport Modeling & Design
>
>
>
>
>> On Jan 13, 2015, at 9:56 AM, Don McDonald wr
ote:
>>
>> Tim, since yours have lasted so long.... do you leave the doors in the op
en position when the plane is hangared? I try to do this as I think it help
s the seals.
>> Don McDonald
>>
>> From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2015 4:03 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation
>>
>>
>> I agree with using the stock struts and see how they work for you. I have
had stock struts since the beginning. My doors have the Iflyrv10.com flush d
oor handles that probably add a little bit of weight, but not much. The orig
inals lasted about 5 years and 600 hours and then started getting just a bit
weak in cold conditions. They were OK in warm conditions. I ordered new sto
ck struts from Van's a couple of years ago and replaced them at the next con
dition inspection. They are doing fine. I agree with Jesse in that I don't w
ant to have a door that will not stay down when not latched nor one that spr
ings up aggressively when unlatched.
>>
>> --------
>> David Maib
>> RV-10 #40559
>> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.phref="http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution" target="_blank">http://wwwp; -Matt DraList"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums
.matron==================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
>> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
>> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
>> ">www.mrrace.com
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Duty Gas Strut Installation |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I have 5 years flying on my stock struts and will be replacing them this spring
during my inspection. I keep the doors closed due to dust and to help discourage
mud dobbers.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436986#436986
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: Flap Position System |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
ES FLAP POS SWV 10 --- purchased but will not be using. Never installed, still
in box. Box has hangar rash but never hooked up or removed from box. Hardware
and instructions included. Vans price is $225. I will ship CONUS for $200.
Dave Ford
Contact rv610dave(at)gmail.com
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437075#437075
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Jesus Bolt" list? |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
Hey Everyone.
I'm getting towards the end of the build, and I've started thinking of the
final inspections. Has anyone compiled a list of the so called "Jesus
Bolts" that are flight critical single points of failure? Like the nuts and
bolts that connect the ball end joints on the elevator pushrods? I was just
rereading about the -10 that lost elevator control while landing and
smashed up the nose pretty badly... due to either losing or never having a
nut on one of these bolts.
It would be great to have a piece of paper to use as a checklist while
doing those final inspections before first flight, the extensive
inspections during phase 1, and continuing yearly inspections.
If no one has a specific list, I'd be happy to create an online spreadsheet
that we all could contribute too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Jesus Bolt" list? |
You're farther along than I am .... I have another year (been saying
that for 4 months now) to build, and can't answer your question.
However, in lieu of a 'Jesus bolt list', I've been making sure that
every fastener necessary for safe flight has yellow torque seal visible
before I close up that area. My 'list' includes nuts/bolts, B nuts,
cotter pins and safety wire. The torque seal goes on right after I've
tightened the fastener ..... and if the torque seal is missing (because
I messed up) the fastener gets re-tightened, not just checked off
because 'I know it got tightened'.
Great idea though ..... sorry I can't contribute to a 'list'.
Linn
On 1/16/2015 12:53 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
> Hey Everyone.
>
> I'm getting towards the end of the build, and I've started thinking of
> the final inspections. Has anyone compiled a list of the so called
> "Jesus Bolts" that are flight critical single points of failure? Like
> the nuts and bolts that connect the ball end joints on the elevator
> pushrods? I was just rereading about the -10 that lost elevator
> control while landing and smashed up the nose pretty badly... due to
> either losing or never having a nut on one of these bolts.
>
> It would be great to have a piece of paper to use as a checklist while
> doing those final inspections before first flight, the extensive
> inspections during phase 1, and continuing yearly inspections.
>
> If no one has a specific list, I'd be happy to create an online
> spreadsheet that we all could contribute too.
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Jesus Bolt" list? |
I think the absolute best way is to host an RVator club meeting and have ev
eryone take a close look.=C2- Many eyes are better than a few.=C2- Does
n't really matter how far along you are. I hosted at least 2.
Don McDonald
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2015 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: "Jesus Bolt" list?
Hey Everyone.
I'm getting towards the end of the build, and I've started thinking of the
final inspections. Has anyone compiled a list of the so called "Jesus Bolts
" that are flight critical single points of failure? Like the nuts and bolt
s that connect the ball end joints on the elevator pushrods? I was just rer
eading about the -10 that lost elevator control while landing and smashed u
p the nose pretty badly... due to either losing or never having a nut on on
e of these bolts.
It would be great to have a piece of paper to use as a checklist while doin
g those final inspections before first flight, the extensive inspections du
ring phase 1, and continuing yearly inspections.
If no one has a specific list, I'd be happy to create an online spreadsheet
that we all could contribute too.=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Jesus Bolt" list? |
You can pretty well imagine the critical ones. All that attach flight
controls and connect the individual pieces. The wing attach bolts. The
vertical and horizontal stab bolts. The engine mounts and mount attach
bolts. All of the gear attach bolts. Axle nuts. Any trim and autopilot
servo attachments.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Ed Kranz
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, January 16, 2015 11:53 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: "Jesus Bolt" list?
>
> Hey Everyone.
>
> I'm getting towards the end of the build, and I've started thinking of
> the final inspections. Has anyone compiled a list of the so called
> "Jesus Bolts" that are flight critical single points of failure? Like
> the nuts and bolts that connect the ball end joints on the elevator
> pushrods? I was just rereading about the -10 that lost elevator
> control while landing and smashed up the nose pretty badly... due to
> either losing or never having a nut on one of these bolts.
>
> It would be great to have a piece of paper to use as a checklist while
> doing those final inspections before first flight, the extensive
> inspections during phase 1, and continuing yearly inspections.
>
> If no one has a specific list, I'd be happy to create an online
> spreadsheet that we all could contribute too.
> *
>
> ://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
> ref="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com
> p://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
> tp://www.mypilotstore.com/">www.mypilotstore.com
> ttp://www.mrrace.com/">www.mrrace.com
> ronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Jesus Bolt" list? |
Add the throttle, mixture, and prop control attach bolts.
On 1/16/2015 9:37 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> You can pretty well imagine the critical ones. All that attach flight
> controls and connect the individual pieces. The wing attach bolts. The
> vertical and horizontal stab bolts. The engine mounts and mount attach
> bolts. All of the gear attach bolts. Axle nuts. Any trim and autopilot
> servo attachments.
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* Ed Kranz
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 16, 2015 11:53 AM
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: "Jesus Bolt" list?
>>
>> Hey Everyone.
>>
>> I'm getting towards the end of the build, and I've started thinking
>> of the final inspections. Has anyone compiled a list of the so called
>> "Jesus Bolts" that are flight critical single points of failure? Like
>> the nuts and bolts that connect the ball end joints on the elevator
>> pushrods? I was just rereading about the -10 that lost elevator
>> control while landing and smashed up the nose pretty badly... due to
>> either losing or never having a nut on one of these bolts.
>>
>> It would be great to have a piece of paper to use as a checklist
>> while doing those final inspections before first flight, the
>> extensive inspections during phase 1, and continuing yearly inspections.
>>
>> If no one has a specific list, I'd be happy to create an online
>> spreadsheet that we all could contribute too.
>> *
>>
>> ://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
>> ref="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com
>> p://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> tp://www.mypilotstore.com/">www.mypilotstore.com
>> ttp://www.mrrace.com/">www.mrrace.com
>> ronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Jesus Bolt" list? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <tojimberry(at)gmail.com> |
While I understand that the loss of some bolts can bring you closer to Jesus faster,
there are no bolts that I would want to be without. Even if a bolt gone
missing does not result in a control or structural failure, it can still jam a
control, etc.
Paying special attention to some bolts suggests that you can slack off with others.
Check every bolt like your life depends on it. If you could pound 12,000
rivets (just a WAG), surely you can put a wrench on every bolt before you go flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437141#437141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New (Free) Aviation App |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com> |
Thank you AOPA for reviewing the Airport Courtesy Car app in the February issue
on page 37. The review states the app is only available for iPhone, however that
is incorrect. And thanks also to AvWeb who reviewed it earlier. The app is
available for Android in the Google Play Store, so you Android users, please
check it out. The app is totally free and now lists over 1100 locations nationwide.
And thanks to all the folks on this forum who contributed listings. Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
1952 Piper Tri-Pacer
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Tucson, Arizona
Owner, www.RVairspace.com and "Airport Courtesy Cars" Smart Phone App
www.RVairspace.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437184#437184
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Searching for a certain AirVenture vendor |
Does anyone recall the name of a custom tool box vendor at AV last year?
They were in one of the main display hangars along a wall, not in an aisle.
Their products were custom configured rollaway type boxes, very nice stuff,
made in USA. I think they took up two booths.
I struck out on a search for the 2014 vendors and I'm not having any luck
on the innerwebs.
Shoulda kept the flyer...
I'd appreciate any memory joggers!
--Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Searching for a certain AirVenture vendor |
Dave I think this is who you were looking for
http://www.storloc.com/
Geoff
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Saylor
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 2:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Searching for a certain AirVenture vendor
Does anyone recall the name of a custom tool box vendor at AV last year?
They were in one of the main display hangars along a wall, not in an aisle.
Their products were custom configured rollaway type boxes, very nice stuff,
made in USA. I think they took up two booths.
I struck out on a search for the 2014 vendors and I'm not having any luck on
the innerwebs.
Shoulda kept the flyer...
I'd appreciate any memory joggers!
--Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Searching for a certain AirVenture vendor |
Exactly, thanks very much Geoff.
--D
On Sun, Jan 18, 2015 at 6:32 PM, Geoff Combs
wrote:
> Dave I think this is who you were looking for
>
> http://www.storloc.com/
>
> Geoff
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David Saylor
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 18, 2015 2:52 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Searching for a certain AirVenture vendor
>
> Does anyone recall the name of a custom tool box vendor at AV last
> year? They were in one of the main display hangars along a wall, not in
an
> aisle.
>
> Their products were custom configured rollaway type boxes, very nice
> stuff, made in USA. I think they took up two booths.
>
> I struck out on a search for the 2014 vendors and I'm not having any luck
> on the innerwebs.
>
> Shoulda kept the flyer...
>
> I'd appreciate any memory joggers!
>
> --Dave
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com ">www.ae
roelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com ">www.
buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com ">www.
homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
> href="http://www.mypilotstore.com ">www.my
pilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
> href="http://www.mrrace.com ">www.mrrace.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution ">http://www.matronics.com/chref= "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com ">http:/
/forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>
> *
>
> *
>
===========
m>
ldersbooks.com>
.com>
com>
om/contribution>
===========
onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Jesus Bolt" list? |
| From: | Timothy Meyer <tgmeyerster(at)gmail.com> |
Which part of the airplane can fall off or come apart during flight? And
what can you do to make sure that nothing comes apart or falls off during
flight?
On Saturday, January 17, 2015, Jim Berry wrote:
> >
>
> While I understand that the loss of some bolts can bring you closer to
> Jesus faster, there are no bolts that I would want to be without. Even if a
> bolt gone missing does not result in a control or structural failure, it
> can still jam a control, etc.
>
> Paying special attention to some bolts suggests that you can slack off
> with others. Check every bolt like your life depends on it. If you could
> pound 12,000 rivets (just a WAG), surely you can put a wrench on every bolt
> before you go flying.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437141#437141
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven DeFord <riveteddragon(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
So my long-anticipated Quickbuild wings and fuse have arrived from the Phillipines,
and will be coming out my way in the next couple weeks. Any good advice
for manipulating the up to 700# crates off a truck and into a garage?
Steven DeFord
RivetedDragon(at)gmail.com
(925) 596-0426 (cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
A six pack and some friends!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DeFord
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2015 4:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings
So my long-anticipated Quickbuild wings and fuse have arrived from the
Phillipines, and will be coming out my way in the next couple weeks. Any
good advice for manipulating the up to 700# crates off a truck and into a
garage?
Steven DeFord
RivetedDragon(at)gmail.com
(925) 596-0426 (cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
What Bob said and request a lift gate on the delivery truck.
On 1/21/2015 4:24 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> A six pack and some friends!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DeFord
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2015 4:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings
>
>
> So my long-anticipated Quickbuild wings and fuse have arrived from the
> Phillipines, and will be coming out my way in the next couple weeks. Any
> good advice for manipulating the up to 700# crates off a truck and into a
> garage?
>
> Steven DeFord
> RivetedDragon(at)gmail.com
> (925) 596-0426 (cell)
>
>
--
Lyle
Sent from my Gateway E4610D desktop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
Request a lift gate. Rent a fork lift.
If you have smooth areas like a garage or hangar floors, lengths of 2"
schedule 40 PVC pipe (the thick stuff, I do get them backwards some
times) so you can roll to their final destination will work. Just
remember to roll 'sideways' since there are 2X4s under the crate so a
fork lift can get under them. I used the PVC pipe and furniture dolly's
from Harbor freight for mine.
Linn
On 1/21/2015 4:04 PM, Steven DeFord wrote:
>
> So my long-anticipated Quickbuild wings and fuse have arrived from the Phillipines,
and will be coming out my way in the next couple weeks. Any good advice
for manipulating the up to 700# crates off a truck and into a garage?
>
> Steven DeFord
> RivetedDragon(at)gmail.com
> (925) 596-0426 (cell)
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
| From: | "bruceflys" <bruceflys(at)comcast.net> |
AMF delivered mine last month. The local rep said they would "put the crates on
the ground" for me. A large flat bed truck arrived with a heavy duty fork lift
on the back. Perhaps your carrier will do something similar.
--------
RV-10 UC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437451#437451
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
One caveat... Are you using Tony Partain, or somebody like him that personally
delivers it? The reason I ask is that Van discounted the shipping by $400 each
time (I did two different orders) if Tony delivered them. That amounted to no
crates for the finished wings, and the actual fuselage. The canopy and windshield
also came uncrated. It actually made it a little easier. I had already built
a wing stand, so we put them straight into the stand. The loose parts all
went on tables or the ground. There were still several crates with parts on each
delivery.
The suggestion that you get helpers is a good idea.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437453#437453
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Searching for a certain AirVenture vendor |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Dave,
Out of curiosity, how much do those things cost? I went to their web site, and
they look on the expensive side....
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437454#437454
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Beebe <richard.beebe(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Searching for a certain AirVenture vendor |
I looked at them extensively at AirVenture and I thought they were
fairly reasonable. They're not Harbor Freight reasonable but they're
also built considerably better. It's hard to throw out a price because
they have so many different units and set-ups and you can customize
them. To show off their strength they would fully open a drawer and then
stand in it. I don't think I'd try that with an HF unit.
--Rick
On 01/22/2015 08:18 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>
> Dave, Out of curiosity, how much do those things cost? I went to
> their web site, and they look on the expensive side....
>
> John
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Searching for a certain AirVenture vendor |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
> I looked at them extensively at AirVenture and I thought they were
> fairly reasonable. They're not Harbor Freight reasonable but they're
> also built considerably better. It's hard to throw out a price because
> they have so many different units and set-ups and you can customize
> them. To show off their strength they would fully open a drawer and then
> stand in it. I don't think I'd try that with an HF unit.
>
> --Rick
Rick,
Would you say closer to a Craftsman unit?
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437461#437461
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Steve,
I see by your area code that you are in the SF bay area. Have you considered flying
to Portland (commercial), renting a U haul, and driving back? This is or
at least was the least expensive option. I did it all in one long day (arrived
home at 1 am). No crating charge, Vans will load tbe U haul for you, get friends
to help unload. Have wing stands ready. One way drop off charge is less expensive
if you return the truck to an east bay location as opposed to San Francisco.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437480#437480
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Jesus Bolt" list? |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Ed
My advice is invite some RV builders and assign each one a system to inspect, like
controls. Then have some one inspect sections like one wing.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437521#437521
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Jesus Bolt" list? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <tojimberry(at)gmail.com> |
tgmeyerster(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Which part of the airplane can fall off or come apart during flight? And what
can you do to make sure that nothing comes apart or falls off during flight?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437141#437141 (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437141#437141)
>
>
> As I have reported previously, I was shooting practice approaches to minimums
when the pinch bolt that holds the fab to the throttle body loosened. This allowed
the fab to drop to the bottom of the cowl and slide aft. When I went full
throttle at the missed, engine suction pulled the fab up to the throttle body,
blanking airflow and killing the engine.
>
> Fortunately we were over the threshold at that point and landed long. If the
bolt had let go at most any other time, the outcome may have been different.
>
> Turns out that this has happened to several RVs. My solution was to install a
strut brace from the throttle body to the fab.
>
> So, which bolt would you like to do without?
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> br> fts!)
> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ==========
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
>
>
>
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437525#437525
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I went to Harbor Frieght and got one each of their large and small moving dollies.
I then joined them together about three feet apart with 2 2x2 rails.
The contraption made for a nice crate dolly and later by adding styrofoam blocks
as needed to the small dolly, a great fuselage dolly. It was moveable around
the shop and a nice height for wiring, interior painting, etc
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437526#437526
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Taking Delivery of Quickbuild Fuse/Wings |
| From: | Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com> |
When I recently moved I needed to move a large gun safe. It is a 7' tall and 4'
wide by 4' deep fire rated safe. Heavy doesn't begin to describe it. I went to
Lowes and purchased the largest casters they had. (5 inch locking Waxman rubber
swivel casters)
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Waxman-5-in-Rubber-Swivel-Caster/3026963
I made a 2x4 frame that the gun safe fit onto and attached the casters at the corners
and the middle. It worked well and I was able to move it around on a flat
surface by myself.
This cheap option may work well for you.
Justin
> On Jan 23, 2015, at 08:50, woxofswa wrote:
>
>
> I went to Harbor Frieght and got one each of their large and small moving dollies.
I then joined them together about three feet apart with 2 2x2 rails.
>
> The contraption made for a nice crate dolly and later by adding styrofoam blocks
as needed to the small dolly, a great fuselage dolly. It was moveable around
the shop and a nice height for wiring, interior painting, etc
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Flew May 10 2014
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437526#437526
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lower cowl attach problem |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
I'm at the point of attaching the lower cowl aft edge hinge to the cowl and need
to drill holes for the rivets. I have the upper cowl secured in place and the
lower cowl is clecoed to the upper at the forward end and secured at the bottom.
Thus, no inside access. Is there a trick to sticking the cowl part of the
hinge to the inside and then drilling from the outside...or a better plan? Suggestions
appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437564#437564
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com> |
Don't use the hinge on the lower rear of the cowl; it will break. I put a plate
on each side attached to the firewall where the hinge would go and then put 3
screws on each side through the bottom cowl. Also, make them countersunk with
washers. That works well. You could also use skybolt's fasteners.
Kevin Belue
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 24, 2015, at 12:02 PM, "bob88" wrote:
>
> I'm at the point of attaching the lower cowl aft edge hinge to the cowl and need
to drill holes for the rivets. I have the upper cowl secured in place and
the lower cowl is clecoed to the upper at the forward end and secured at the bottom.
Thus, no inside access. Is there a trick to sticking the cowl part of the
hinge to the inside and then drilling from the outside...or a better plan?
Suggestions appreciated.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437564#437564
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
Well, they might break. On all the -10's I've messed with, some break and some
don't. It's hard to tell what causes them to break. The best option, as mentioned,
is a plate with screws or 2 skybolts on each side. The hinge pin is a royal
pain to mess with anyway.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 24, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Kevin Belue wrote:
>
>
> Don't use the hinge on the lower rear of the cowl; it will break. I put a plate
on each side attached to the firewall where the hinge would go and then put
3 screws on each side through the bottom cowl. Also, make them countersunk with
washers. That works well. You could also use skybolt's fasteners.
>
> Kevin Belue
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 24, 2015, at 12:02 PM, "bob88" wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm at the point of attaching the lower cowl aft edge hinge to the cowl and
need to drill holes for the rivets. I have the upper cowl secured in place and
the lower cowl is clecoed to the upper at the forward end and secured at the
bottom. Thus, no inside access. Is there a trick to sticking the cowl part of
the hinge to the inside and then drilling from the outside...or a better plan?
Suggestions appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437564#437564
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
Hey Bob,
If the other's response to attaching the cowl to the bottom of the firewall
apply, then never mind.
Are you talking about attaching the horizontal hinge (which fastens the
upper and lower cowls) to the bottom half of the cowl at the aft end?
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: bob88
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2015 1:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowl attach problem
I'm at the point of attaching the lower cowl aft edge hinge to the cowl and
need to drill holes for the rivets. I have the upper cowl secured in place
and the lower cowl is clecoed to the upper at the forward end and secured at
the bottom. Thus, no inside access. Is there a trick to sticking the cowl
part of the hinge to the inside and then drilling from the outside...or a
better plan? Suggestions appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Actually, I did the plate with screws/nutplates on the bottom. My issue is with
the hinge attachment to the sides of the lower cowl along the firewall; not the
upper to lower attachment. Trying to figure out how to drill the rivet holes
with the cowl in position.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437575#437575
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
By careful measuring and/or shining a bright light inside, you should be able to
draw an outline of the hinge on the outside of the cowl. Then mark a centerline,
and mark where you want the rivets to go. Start at bottom, this is the hard
part. As the drill comes thru the fiberglass, either have a long arm inside
(thru the bottom opening) to hold the hinge flat against the cowl; OR, bend the
hinge out of the way, drill thru the cowl, rotate the hinge back into position,
mark with a sharpie, remove the cowl, drill the hinge. #1 is more accurate
and quicker if you have the long arm of yourself or a helper. I think I did
it by myself using a scrap of wood to hold the hinge. Once the first hole is drilled,
use a cleco to hold the hinge against the cowl. Drill with light pressure
so you don't push the hinge away. Cleco as you go. As per the instructions,
if too many shavings build up between the hinge and cowl, stop and blow them
out so they don't keep the hinge from laying flat.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437580#437580
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
One way is to attach the aft section to the side of the fuse.
Then join the hinge halves with the pin so the fwd half is hanging in
space.
Now put the lower cowl in place so you're happy with the fit.
Drill two or three no. 40 holes in the cowl to catch the fwd hinge half.
Cleco the cowl to the hinge and finish the rivet pattern. The original
holes can be filled later if they don't end up as part of the desired
layout.
You might consider moving the aft hinge halfs about 1/8" forward relative
to the fuse so the knuckles don't line up exactly with the split line. But
that may require a wider hinge flange than Vans supplies-- I don't recall.
Otherwise you end up with the knuckles visible in the gap.
--Dave
On Saturday, January 24, 2015, bob88 wrote:
> >
>
> Actually, I did the plate with screws/nutplates on the bottom. My issue is
> with the hinge attachment to the sides of the lower cowl along the
> firewall; not the upper to lower attachment. Trying to figure out how to
> drill the rivet holes with the cowl in position.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437575#437575
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall Soundproofing Insulation |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Could the RV-10 builder from Canada (I think) who supplied me soundproofing insulation
(i.e. felt, blue rubber and self adhesive backed foil) for the firewall
some time back, please contact me off line to discuss installation technique.
Alternatively if any other builders have used this soundproofing method for their
firewall, please contact me to confirm the order of the three materials and
the adhesive used to bond each layer please?
Warm regards
Patrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Center section wing bolt alignment--follow-up |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
After wrestling with the perceived problem for awhile, and trying
installing the spacers that come with the slow build kit (which did help
with alignment) I decided to wait until I actually got the wing spar
inserted in the center section.
Surprise....the right wing holes lined up about as well as can be inspected.
Somehow having th spar inserted seemed to fix any misalignment.
When I got to the left wing, the top 3/8" holes were very tight on the
alignment pins, so I investigated. I found that it was the wing spar where
the problem existed, not the center section. The spar web did not did not
line up exactly with the main bar spar cap. Talked to Van's. They told me
to not use my 3/8" undersize reamer from the bar side because it would
remove metal where you do not want to change clearance. Their advice was to
work from the web side with a Dremel with abrasive bit(with dowel or bolt
in the bar to prevent going too deep) until the interference was solved,
then prime the area worked on.
I did that. Problem solved. As insurance, I stored the bolts under dry ice
overnight before installing. They all went in okay, some needing firmer
tapping with dead blow mallet than others. Van's did say that the web
misalignment they had heard of a few other cases before mine.
Kelly
On Thu, Nov 27, 2014 at 1:39 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I will check, but the wing # vs fuselage # is irrelevant in this case. It
> is the two halves of the center section on one side of the fuselage that
> have the misalignment. At this stage the wings are not involved.
> Unfortunately my QB was one of the first to come out of Manila after
> relocation/reorganization of the facility their. There were a number of QC
> issues right from the start, like not countersinking the longerons before
> riveting on the dimpled skins.
>
> On 11/27/2014 10:06 AM, Rich Hansen wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Kelly,
>> After commiserating with you in reading your email, a thought occurred to
>> me. I had purposely forgotten about this so as not to have continuous bad
>> dreams about it. So here is the question: Do you have the same serial
>> number fuselage as you do wings? As in, are the numbers matching? As in,
>> were you one of the unfortunate ones that lost your quick build in the
>> Philippines weather disaster some years ago???
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Low profile door handles |
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
Aerosport Products now has available new Low profile door handles for the RV-10.
These can be added to a new build or retrofit to flying aircraft. They also
work great with the Planearound saftey latch. Introductory cost is $345.00 plus
shipping.
These handles come with everything you need accept for the ACS door locks. These
can be purchased from Aircraft Spruce part #11-01600.
Contact Aerosport Products www.aerosportproducts.com for more information
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying 500 hrs
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437669#437669
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo22_310.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo16_105.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Low profile door handles |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <tojimberry(at)gmail.com> |
Beautiful handles. Also glad to see you changed the arrow labels.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437676#437676
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Beyer <fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Low profile door handles |
But if we want to see pictures of them now...two were uploaded to matronics.
Link at the bottom of the email and repasted immediately below.
-Jim
P.S. Yes, I went to the site first, couldn't find them and then realized pi
cs were right under my nose all along. :-)
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo22_310.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/photo16_105.jpg
Jim Beyer
316-213-7093
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Low profile door handles |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <tojimberry(at)gmail.com> |
You can special order from ACS matched key locks, but they will not/cannot match
your existing locks. On a new order, they can also match key to their ignition
switch.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437716#437716
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruceflys" <bruceflys(at)comcast.net> |
New Garmin GSA 28 Servo and RV-10 pitch mount for sale. See Vans Air Force forum's
Classifieds page.
--------
RV-10 UC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438089#438089
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Australian RV builders |
I'm in Perth for 10 days or so and have a rental car. If there are any RV builders
nearby I'd like to vist.
Albert Gardner
N991RV RV-10
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Propellor clocking |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Hartzell 2 blade, ring gear is at #1tdc comp stroke with gear showing #1tc on top
rear at engine split line. Also on starter hole for front of gear. So I know
the ring gear is on correctly question is prop. Don't remember during install
if there was only one way it goes on or not . It currently sits at 11/5 o'clock
from pilot seat. It got me thinking if it is correct ? Or should it be
different so it stops at the 8/2 o'clock during shut down?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438115#438115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor clocking |
Usually there is a "0" on the ring gear and the prop has one stud that has no recess
where it mates with the prop flange. If no "0", there are 2 threaded inserts
on the prop flange that are shorter. It can only go on 2 ways and fully seat.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 6, 2015, at 11:05 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> Hartzell 2 blade, ring gear is at #1tdc comp stroke with gear showing #1tc on
top rear at engine split line. Also on starter hole for front of gear. So I
know the ring gear is on correctly question is prop. Don't remember during install
if there was only one way it goes on or not . It currently sits at 11/5
o'clock from pilot seat. It got me thinking if it is correct ? Or should it
be different so it stops at the 8/2 o'clock during shut down?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438115#438115
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propellor clocking |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Ok I know it had the O so it probably is on correctly but only could be 180 deg
diff? Btw what makes it stop during shutoff at 8/2 o'clock? Haven't started
mine yet so wondering.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438117#438117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor clocking |
Yes, it can only be wrong by being 180 off. I don't know on the 8/2 thing. I think
it stops at any compression stroke, which is the same position on a 4-cyl,
but not on a 6.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 6, 2015, at 12:41 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> Ok I know it had the O so it probably is on correctly but only could be 180 deg
diff? Btw what makes it stop during shutoff at 8/2 o'clock? Haven't started
mine yet so wondering.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438117#438117
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propellor clocking |
| From: | Bob Kaufmann <bob.kaufmann(at)gmail.com> |
How can a prop stop 180 off if its a two blade prop?
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 6, 2015, at 11:10 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it can only be wrong by being 180 off. I don't know on the 8/2 thing. I
think it stops at any compression stroke, which is the same position on a 4-cyl,
but not on a 6.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Feb 6, 2015, at 12:41 PM, rvdave wrote:
>>
>>
>> Ok I know it had the O so it probably is on correctly but only could be 180
deg diff? Btw what makes it stop during shutoff at 8/2 o'clock? Haven't started
mine yet so wondering.
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 for sale
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438117#438117
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Australian RV builders |
Let me know if you make it to Sydney Albert.
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV 10 # 41016
(being Painted)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ibspud(at)roadrunner.com
Sent: Friday, 6 February 2015 7:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Australian RV builders
I'm in Perth for 10 days or so and have a rental car. If there are any RV builders
nearby I'd like to vist.
Albert Gardner
N991RV RV-10
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor clocking |
It can be installed 180 off. It doesn't really matter, but there is a "0" on the
ring gear and a "0" on the prop hub that are supposed to line up. I can't imaging
it would make any difference, though.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 6, 2015, at 2:58 PM, Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>
>
> How can a prop stop 180 off if its a two blade prop?
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>> On Feb 6, 2015, at 11:10 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>
>> Yes, it can only be wrong by being 180 off. I don't know on the 8/2 thing. I
think it stops at any compression stroke, which is the same position on a 4-cyl,
but not on a 6.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> 352-427-0285
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Feb 6, 2015, at 12:41 PM, rvdave wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Ok I know it had the O so it probably is on correctly but only could be 180
deg diff? Btw what makes it stop during shutoff at 8/2 o'clock? Haven't started
mine yet so wondering.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Dave Ford
>>> RV6 for sale
>>> RV10 building
>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438117#438117
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propellor clocking |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
I know there was an O on the crank flange and the ring gear which I lined up but
just couldn't remember if there was more than one way to mount the prop to the
crank flange. Probably what the indexing stud is for, aha moment.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438139#438139
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor clocking |
On rare occasion, swapping blade 180 may help smoothness.
On 2/6/2015 4:14 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> It can be installed 180 off. It doesn't really matter, but there is a "0" on
the ring gear and a "0" on the prop hub that are supposed to line up. I can't
imaging it would make any difference, though.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Feb 6, 2015, at 2:58 PM, Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>>
>>
>> How can a prop stop 180 off if its a two blade prop?
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>>> On Feb 6, 2015, at 11:10 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Yes, it can only be wrong by being 180 off. I don't know on the 8/2 thing.
I think it stops at any compression stroke, which is the same position on a 4-cyl,
but not on a 6.
>>>
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>> 352-427-0285
>>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>> On Feb 6, 2015, at 12:41 PM, rvdave wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ok I know it had the O so it probably is on correctly but only could be 180
deg diff? Btw what makes it stop during shutoff at 8/2 o'clock? Haven't started
mine yet so wondering.
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Dave Ford
>>>> RV6 for sale
>>>> RV10 building
>>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438117#438117
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich Hansen <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Hose Interference |
Well, haven't seen any posts for a few days so here is a little tip that hop
efully someone can use: On my hose that runs from the left firewall heat bo
x to the exhaust heat muff there was interference with the fuel line, the br
eather tube, and the oil cooler. My thinking was that simply changing the l
ength of the hose or twisting it would solve the issue. Not so for me. Aft
er taking 5 minutes to cut, fit, and install the right side and stewing over
this issue on the left for an hour, a default to the ACS Catalog Page 388 o
ffered some hope. A quick trip to the So Cal ACS gave me part # 08-00863 in
hand. It fit perfectly and offered clearance for all three points of inter
ference. All for $29.50, not bad for aircraft parts and a nice neat fix.
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