RV10-Archive.digest.vol-kl
March 24, 2015 - April 21, 2015
On Tue, Mar 24, 2015 at 11:33 AM, Larry Rosen wrote:
I used a 1.5" hose from the fire wall to the rear connector, with
homebrew
reducers at each end to make the transition between 2" and 1.5". I did
this
as it made routing the hose much easier.
It sounds like 1" tubing would provide more than enough heat.
I may homebrew or just use these reducers from planeinovations
<http://www.planeinnovations.com/scat-adapters.html> It will depend if I
want to spend time or money.
One other point - I view the per plans cabin heat valve location as
problematic. On the hottest day you have hot air off the heat muffs
being
directed back at the engine - right at the mechanical fuel pump. My fix
for
this was to install a piece of Koolmat between the firewall cabin heat
boxes
(holes cut out for the box air exit) such that the mat extends over the
top
of the boxes and then down over the front of the boxes. The result is
when
the cabin heat valves are shut, the dumped hot air is directed down
toward
the bottom of the cowl, and the conductive heat from the boxes to the
firewall is reduced. This is the Koolmat product:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php?clickkey=2616
02
I am having a hard time visualizing what you installed. Are you using
the koolmat to direct the hot air down instead of towards the engine.
In this case the koolmat is working as a plenum and not insulating the
fwf.
Larry
-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat SCAT Tube Routing |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
The 1" was something I had lying around the hangar. No issues with the
fiberglass and the heat.I made the reducers by carving some styrofoam and
wraping it with duct/mylar tape and then glassing over it.
On Tue, Mar 24, 2015 at 2:37 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
> Deems,
> 1" Scat tubing?
> I take it, no issues with the fiberglass in the heater line.
>
> Larry
>
> On 3/24/2015 4:18 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC07074.html
>
> click forward for a few more pics
>
> On Tue, Mar 24, 2015 at 11:33 AM, Larry Rosen wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>> I used a 1.5" hose from the fire wall to the rear connector, with
>>> homebrew
>>> reducers at each end to make the transition between 2" and 1.5". I did
>>> this
>>> as it made routing the hose much easier.
>>>
>> It sounds like 1" tubing would provide more than enough heat.
>>
>> I may homebrew or just use these reducers from planeinovations <
>> http://www.planeinnovations.com/scat-adapters.html> It will depend if I
>> want to spend time or money.
>>
>> One other point - I view the per plans cabin heat valve location as
>>> problematic. On the hottest day you have hot air off the heat muffs
>>> being
>>> directed back at the engine - right at the mechanical fuel pump. My fix
>>> for
>>> this was to install a piece of Koolmat between the firewall cabin heat
>>> boxes
>>> (holes cut out for the box air exit) such that the mat extends over the
>>> top
>>> of the boxes and then down over the front of the boxes. The result is
>>> when
>>> the cabin heat valves are shut, the dumped hot air is directed down
>>> toward
>>> the bottom of the cowl, and the conductive heat from the boxes to the
>>> firewall is reduced. This is the Koolmat product:
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php?clickkey=261602
>>>
>>> I am having a hard time visualizing what you installed. Are you using
>> the koolmat to direct the hot air down instead of towards the engine. In
>> this case the koolmat is working as a plenum and not insulating the fwf.
>>
>> Larry
>>
>> ===================================
>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat SCAT Tube Routing |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I just followed the standard plans and crushed the large scat tube to fit the space.
After 5 years no problems with chafe or perforation. It is ugly, but it
works. Deems' installation is obviously 1st class, but a bit of extra work.
I would say two far more important issues are : 1) the cheap aluminum air distribution
boxes on the firewall supplied by Vans. I suggest using only the excellent
(after market) fire resistant stainless steel steel boxes. Could save your
life. 2) Also, if I were building again, I would improvise easier access to
the fuel system (in the tunnel) - pump and filter - for easy servicing. Servicing
the fuel filter is a real pain. Top and side access portals would facilitate
servicing.
--------
See you OSH '15
Q/B - flying 5 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439849#439849
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat SCAT Tube Routing |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
AirMike wrote:
> I just followed the standard plans and crushed the large scat tube to fit the
space. After 5 years no problems with chafe or perforation. It is ugly, but it
works. Deems' installation is obviously 1st class, but a bit of extra work.
>
> I would say two far more important issues are : 1) the cheap aluminum air distribution
boxes on the firewall supplied by Vans. I suggest using only the excellent
(after market) fire resistant stainless steel steel boxes. Could save your
life. 2) Also, if I were building again, I would improvise easier access to
the fuel system (in the tunnel) - pump and filter - for easy servicing. Servicing
the fuel filter is a real pain. Top and side access portals would facilitate
servicing.
I did the same thing with the large scat and it works fine. Coming up on 7 years
with no issues, but as Mike says, it is ugly. However, I am the only one that
looks at it! ^_^
I agree with Mike's comments about the aluminum heat distribution box and tunnel
access. I even thought about making a belly access panel, ala Piper, but that
would introduce some other engineering issues I imagine. You will thank yourself
later on if you make access to the fuel filter as easy as possible.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439852#439852
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat SCAT Tube Routing |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Agree with David's comment on the fuel filters. One of the "legacy" items from
my earlier filters install was placement of fuel filters in the wing roots. I
was able to install two Earl's Performance filters - one in each wing root. They
are user serviceable and easily accessed simply by removing the wing root cover
panel. Now I don't have to contort myself to get at them as I would if they
were in the tunnel.
Regular cleaning, especially when first flying, is a must. There can be a lot of
accumulated crud when building.
I also installed an access panel on the pilot's side wall of the tunnel for easy
access to the aux fuel pump.
Cheer
Les
easily(at)me.com wrote:
>
> AirMike wrote:
> > I just followed the standard plans and crushed the large scat tube to fit the
space. After 5 years no problems with chafe or perforation. It is ugly, but
it works. Deems' installation is obviously 1st class, but a bit of extra work.
> >
> > I would say two far more important issues are : 1) the cheap aluminum air distribution
boxes on the firewall supplied by Vans. I suggest using only the excellent
(after market) fire resistant stainless steel steel boxes. Could save
your life. 2) Also, if I were building again, I would improvise easier access
to the fuel system (in the tunnel) - pump and filter - for easy servicing. Servicing
the fuel filter is a real pain. Top and side access portals would facilitate
servicing.
>
>
> I did the same thing with the large scat and it works fine. Coming up on 7 years
with no issues, but as Mike says, it is ugly. However, I am the only one that
looks at it! ^_^
> I agree with Mike's comments about the aluminum heat distribution box and tunnel
access. I even thought about making a belly access panel, ala Piper, but that
would introduce some other engineering issues I imagine. You will thank yourself
later on if you make access to the fuel filter as easy as possible.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439860#439860
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Do you have a part number handy??? I looked, and the choices are huge!!!
Anybody else go this route??
My fellow RV-10 builder added a second Vans filter and mounted them
under the front seats in place of the one in the tunnel.
I plan on adding filters in the wing root like Les did, and for the same
reasons.
Linn
On 3/25/2015 9:10 AM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Agree with David's comment on the fuel filters. One of the "legacy" items from
my earlier filters install was placement of fuel filters in the wing roots.
I was able to install two Earl's Performance filters - one in each wing root.
They are user serviceable and easily accessed simply by removing the wing root
cover panel. Now I don't have to contort myself to get at them as I would if
they were in the tunnel.
>
> Regular cleaning, especially when first flying, is a must. There can be a lot
of accumulated crud when building.
>
> I also installed an access panel on the pilot's side wall of the tunnel for easy
access to the aux fuel pump.
>
> Cheer
>
> Les
>
>
> easily(at)me.com wrote:
>> AirMike wrote:
>>> I just followed the standard plans and crushed the large scat tube to fit the
space. After 5 years no problems with chafe or perforation. It is ugly, but
it works. Deems' installation is obviously 1st class, but a bit of extra work.
>>>
>>> I would say two far more important issues are : 1) the cheap aluminum air distribution
boxes on the firewall supplied by Vans. I suggest using only the excellent
(after market) fire resistant stainless steel steel boxes. Could save
your life. 2) Also, if I were building again, I would improvise easier access
to the fuel system (in the tunnel) - pump and filter - for easy servicing. Servicing
the fuel filter is a real pain. Top and side access portals would facilitate
servicing.
>>
>> I did the same thing with the large scat and it works fine. Coming up on 7 years
with no issues, but as Mike says, it is ugly. However, I am the only one
that looks at it! ^_^
>> I agree with Mike's comments about the aluminum heat distribution box and tunnel
access. I even thought about making a belly access panel, ala Piper, but
that would introduce some other engineering issues I imagine. You will thank yourself
later on if you make access to the fuel filter as easy as possible.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439860#439860
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat SCAT Tube Routing |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Any pictures of the wing root filter installations please Les?
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 25 Mar 2015, at 23:40, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> Agree with David's comment on the fuel filters. One of the "legacy" items from
my earlier filters install was placement of fuel filters in the wing roots.
I was able to install two Earl's Performance filters - one in each wing root.
They are user serviceable and easily accessed simply by removing the wing root
cover panel. Now I don't have to contort myself to get at them as I would if
they were in the tunnel.
>
> Regular cleaning, especially when first flying, is a must. There can be a lot
of accumulated crud when building.
>
> I also installed an access panel on the pilot's side wall of the tunnel for easy
access to the aux fuel pump.
>
> Cheer
>
> Les
>
>
>
> easily(at)me.com wrote:
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>> I just followed the standard plans and crushed the large scat tube to fit the
space. After 5 years no problems with chafe or perforation. It is ugly, but
it works. Deems' installation is obviously 1st class, but a bit of extra work.
>>>
>>> I would say two far more important issues are : 1) the cheap aluminum air distribution
boxes on the firewall supplied by Vans. I suggest using only the excellent
(after market) fire resistant stainless steel steel boxes. Could save
your life. 2) Also, if I were building again, I would improvise easier access
to the fuel system (in the tunnel) - pump and filter - for easy servicing. Servicing
the fuel filter is a real pain. Top and side access portals would facilitate
servicing.
>>
>>
>> I did the same thing with the large scat and it works fine. Coming up on 7 years
with no issues, but as Mike says, it is ugly. However, I am the only one
that looks at it! ^_^
>> I agree with Mike's comments about the aluminum heat distribution box and tunnel
access. I even thought about making a belly access panel, ala Piper, but
that would introduce some other engineering issues I imagine. You will thank yourself
later on if you make access to the fuel filter as easy as possible.
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439860#439860
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New MT 3 Blade Propeller For Sale |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> |
NEW PRICE. 11,000.00
CHEAPER THEN ANYWHERE AND WITH FREE SHIPPING.
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439881#439881
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel filters |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Linn
These are what I used : http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/ear-230206erl
I flow tested them at something north of 50 GPH so they are well suited to our
application (IMHO). The screens are easily removed and cleaned. I have done so
several times.
When I first was flying, I had to install gascolators to meet inspection requirements.
These I had in the wig roots and the filters were under the seat. Accessing
them was a real pain. I wanted easy access. I certainly didn't want them
in the tunnel.
When I received permission to remove gascolators, I moved the filters to the wing
roots. Much easier access (5 minutes and they are both out).
Also, rather than ruin a solid line from the tunnel to the fuel tank, I ran the
line to a bulkhead minutes on the fues sidewall. It was easy to mount the filter
between this and the tank outlet.
Cheers
Les
[quote="flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com"]Do you have a part number handy??? I looked,
and the choices are huge!!!
Anybody else go this route??
My fellow RV-10 builder added a second Vans filter and mounted them
under the front seats in place of the one in the tunnel.
I plan on adding filters in the wing root like Les did, and for the same
reasons.
Linn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439882#439882
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New MT 3 Blade Propeller For Sale |
Details please - what model #
Why are you selling? I love mine!
-----Original Message-----
>From: mds4878 <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 25, 2015 9:39 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: New MT 3 Blade Propeller For Sale
>
>
>NEW PRICE. 11,000.00
>CHEAPER THEN ANYWHERE AND WITH FREE SHIPPING.
>
>--------
>RV-10 #40447
>Fuselage almost done.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439881#439881
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New MT 3 Blade Propeller For Sale |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com> |
MTV-12-B/193-53 with Governor to fit IO 540 RV-10
All info in first posting in thread.
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439884#439884
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I don't find mention of any weatherstrip for the wing root fairings. Am I
missing something? What have others done to make a nice joint between
fuselage skin and wing root fairing?
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 1:11 PM, Patrick Pulis
wrote:
>
> Any pictures of the wing root filter installations please Les?
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Kelly
I went to a local auto supply shop and got some edge trim and put that on the inboard
edge of the wing root faring. I think it looks quite nice. I can in a 50'
foot roll and cost perhaps $40. I don't have the name, but can get it when
I am at the hanger next.
Cheers
Les
[quote="Kelly McMullen"]I don't find mention of any weatherstrip for the wing root
fairings. Am I missing something? What have others done to make a nice joint
between fuselage skin and wing root fairing?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439886#439886
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New MT 3 Blade Propeller For Sale |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I used part# 05-11201 from Aircraft Spruce.
I tried the Y shaped one too, but it didn't work.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439887#439887
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
Some have used rubber channel around the leading edge, but along the fuse sk
in where there is an angle to screw the fairing on there is nothing.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 25, 2015, at 10:37 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I don't find mention of any weatherstrip for the wing root fairings. Am I m
issing something? What have others done to make a nice joint between fuselag
e skin and wing root fairing?
>
>> On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 1:11 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
>>
>> Any pictures of the wing root filter installations please Les?
>>
>> Warm regards
>>
>> Patrick
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
Some have used rubber channel around the leading edge, but along the fuse sk
in where there is an angle to screw the fairing on there is nothing.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 25, 2015, at 10:37 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I don't find mention of any weatherstrip for the wing root fairings. Am I m
issing something? What have others done to make a nice joint between fuselag
e skin and wing root fairing?
>
>> On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 1:11 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
>>
>> Any pictures of the wing root filter installations please Les?
>>
>> Warm regards
>>
>> Patrick
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel filters |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
As requested by Patrick, here is a pix of of my wing root fuel filter. I misspoke
in my earlier post when I said I used a bulkhead union for the line. I didn't
as I had a connection at the filter I could break. It is hard to see but I
used a 90 degree AN fitting to attach the top of the line to the filter.
Lest anyone ask, the other line to the tank is a return line, another Subie legacy
item that proved useful.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439889#439889
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2116_835.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Jesse,
That is the way I have been reading the plans. Just seemed like it would
look nicer to have something there.
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 8:01 PM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
> Some have used rubber channel around the leading edge, but along the fuse
> skin where there is an angle to screw the fairing on there is nothing.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 25, 2015, at 10:37 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I don't find mention of any weatherstrip for the wing root fairings. Am I
> missing something? What have others done to make a nice joint between
> fuselage skin and wing root fairing?
>
> On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 1:11 PM, Patrick Pulis
> wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> Any pictures of the wing root filter installations please Les?
>>
>> Warm regards
>>
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> D============================================
> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> D============================================
> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> D============================================
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D============================================
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New MT 3 Blade Propeller For Sale |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I don't know if still possible from other distributors,, but I got mine a
couple years ago from a distributor for around 12K including shipping, so
it is definitely a fair price. Just not sure I would switch after having my
MT on hand. I guess if I came into new money the carbon fiber Hartzell or
equivalent might be attractive.
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 7:55 PM, Danny Riggs wrote:
> not bad price: prop is $10500, assembly and shipping is $1200, governor
> about $1000
> How do I know?? Just got mine from Vans.[image: Emoji]
>
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: New MT 3 Blade Propeller For Sale
> > From: mike.nova1973(at)gmail.com
> > Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2015 19:30:41 -0700
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> >
> >
> > MTV-12-B/193-53 with Governor to fit IO 540 RV-10
> > All info in first posting in thread.
> >
> > --------
> > RV-10 #40447
> > Fuselage almost done.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439884#439884
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Wing root fairings |
I used the same rubber channel that is used on the wing root for RV-8s
and such (same material as used on the bottom of the Horizontal
Stabilizer, just longer) I purchased the material from Van=99s.
Like Jesse says, no need for this along the fuselage skin where there is
a bracket to screw down the root fairing. Not installing this trim made
the leading edge to fuselage transition look unfinished.
When you do this you=99ll need open the leading edge to fuselage
gap perhaps 1/8=9D to =C2=BC=9D to provide room for the
channel. Also use a little black RTV in the channel that slides over
the root fairing to make sure it does not work itself out and start
flapping on the side of the fuselage (this was a rude awaking during my
third flight in the RV-8A). Put the RTV in the channel then install on
the leading edge fairing such that the RTV sets up with the channel in
place.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing root fairings
Thanks Jesse,
That is the way I have been reading the plans. Just seemed like it would
look nicer to have something there.
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 8:01 PM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
Some have used rubber channel around the leading edge, but along the
fuse skin where there is an angle to screw the fairing on there is
nothing.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 25, 2015, at 10:37 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
I don't find mention of any weatherstrip for the wing root fairings. Am
I missing something? What have others done to make a nice joint between
fuselage skin and wing root fairing?
On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 1:11 PM, Patrick Pulis
wrote:
Any pictures of the wing root filter installations please Les?
Warm regards
Patrick
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
//forums.matronics.com
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Yep, you need to create room for it between the cover and the fuselage skin. I
don't have any RTV on it, and it stays on fine even where there no support angle
underneath, just need to make sure the gap is not too big. With the J shaped
rubber I used there's not a lot of rubber sticking out, maybe only 3/16.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439899#439899
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel filters |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I used the Summit brand filter, but they are all good.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439900#439900
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I used some edge guard that looks like this.
http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Edge-Guard/Edge-Trims/All-Product-Categories_120/Edge-Guard_119.aspx
I got it at a local automotive store up in Minnesota. It fits snugly on the edge
with no adhesive required. No need to trim the metal to make it fit, either.
I also put it on the edge of my glareshield, which I painted flat black rather
than covering it. The material was very inexpensive, and seven years and counting
it still looks great. Sounds like the same type of material that Les used.
Will try to get a pic to post in the next day or two.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439904#439904
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
I've been wondering what to do with the glareshield ..... and you nailed
it. I went the McMaster-Carr route for the door seals ...... and that
ought to work just dandy for the edge of the glareshield. I'll have to
buy some for a thinner edge though. Thanks for the mental trigger!
Linn
On 3/26/2015 3:24 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote:
>
> I used some edge guard that looks like this.
>
> http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Edge-Guard/Edge-Trims/All-Product-Categories_120/Edge-Guard_119.aspx
>
> I got it at a local automotive store up in Minnesota. It fits snugly on the edge
with no adhesive required. No need to trim the metal to make it fit, either.
I also put it on the edge of my glareshield, which I painted flat black rather
than covering it. The material was very inexpensive, and seven years and counting
it still looks great. Sounds like the same type of material that Les used.
Will try to get a pic to post in the next day or two.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439904#439904
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
I found this to be a good product for the glare shield edge:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Glare-Shield-Edge-Trim-60/productinfo/GSE60/#.
VRRssHl0yUk
I too just painted the top of the glare shield flat black.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2015 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wing root fairings
I've been wondering what to do with the glareshield ..... and you nailed it.
I went the McMaster-Carr route for the door seals ...... and that
ought to work just dandy for the edge of the glareshield. I'll have to
buy some for a thinner edge though. Thanks for the mental trigger!
Linn
On 3/26/2015 3:24 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote:
>
> I used some edge guard that looks like this.
>
>
http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Edge-Guard/Edge-Trims/All-Product-Categories_120
/Edge-Guard_119.aspx
>
> I got it at a local automotive store up in Minnesota. It fits snugly on
the edge with no adhesive required. No need to trim the metal to make it
fit, either. I also put it on the edge of my glareshield, which I painted
flat black rather than covering it. The material was very inexpensive, and
seven years and counting it still looks great. Sounds like the same type of
material that Les used. Will try to get a pic to post in the next day or
two.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439904#439904
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New (Free) Aviation App |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com> |
I can now insert photos of your courtesy cars into the app listings. Feel free
to email me your photos, and please be sure to indicate in the title of the email
the airport ID and/or city location, and if there is more than one FBO, which
one the car is located at. The app has broken 1400 locations nationwide.
Thanks, Glenn Email to airportcars101(at)gmail.com
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
1952 Piper Tri-Pacer
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Tucson, Arizona
Owner, www.RVairspace.com and "Airport Courtesy Cars" Smart Phone App. Over 1400 cars nationwide.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439912#439912
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Zulu 2 and PFX in the RV-10 |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Got the AKG, and I like the bluetooth music, inclusion of both twin and
LEMO plugs, and it's comfortable, but the ANR just isn't as good as the
Bose's. I think I'll be getting another Bose.
-Rob
On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 7:34 AM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Thanks, everyone. I just ordered the AKG and will try that, then make a
> decision.
>
> I actually already have a set of QT Halos. Very comfortable, but the
> noise reduction isn't nearly as good as my A20s. The in-the-ear design i
s
> ineffective in blocking low frequencies, in my experience.
>
> -Rob
>
> On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 6:20 AM, Geoff Combs <
> g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> wrote:
>
>> I have 2 pairs A10 and 2 pairs A20=99s. The A20=99s are bett
er than the 10=9Ds.
>> I have tried Zulu 2=99s a couple times but always liked the Bose.
>>
>> So we did a direct comparison in another RV-10 and they had Lightspeed
>> Zulu 2=99s. We were flying along for about 20 minutes. He with his
Zulu 2 and
>> Myself with the A20. We swapped and flew for 10 minutes or so and we the
n
>> gave our thoughts. We both felt the Bose was superior to the lightspeed.
AS
>> for comfort I dislike the Zulu=99s it=99s just not comfortab
le for me. I can
>> fly 6-7 hours with the Bose and not even realize I have them on. I think
>> the fit and Comfort for each individual is different but as for noise
>> reduction and quality I feel the Bose are superior. As for the service f
rom
>> Bose they have been excellent. I take my in at Oshkosh every year and th
ey
>> have check them and replaced items at no cost that they feel Need
>> attention.
>>
>> With my A20=99s on and no sunglasses you can almost not hear my en
gine at
>> cruise they are that quite. It took me a while to get use to that.
>>
>> FWIW
>>
>> Buy what you want and feel comfortable in. They all work
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Geoff Combs
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
>> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kochman
>> *Sent:* Friday, March 20, 2015 12:25 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Lightspeed Zulu 2 and PFX in the RV-10
>>
>>
>>
>> Last time I bought a headset, I compared the Bose A20 ad Lightspeed Zulu
>> 2, and the Zulu 2 had substantially worse Bose A20 noise reduction. I n
eed
>> a new headset again, so I bought the Zulu PFX and flew with it the other
>> night. The PFX also has substantially worse noise reduction than the A2
0.
>> My A20 isn't quite comfortable on long flights, which I why I keep tryin
g
>> alternatives.
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone else compared the A20 to the Lightspeed headsets head-to-head
>> in the RV-10 and have a similar result? People generally seem to prefer
>> one over the other slightly, but the difference is huge in my experience
,
>> which makes me think something else is going on (or I'm just weird).
>>
>>
>>
>> -Rob
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>>
>> Woodinville, WA
>>
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List *
>>
>> *http://forums.matronics.com *
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution *
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
===========
ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
===========
===========
com/contribution>
===========
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Zulu 2 and PFX in the RV-10 |
good feedback!
Thanks!
From: Rob Kochman
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lightspeed Zulu 2 and PFX in the RV-10
Got the AKG, and I like the bluetooth music, inclusion of both twin and
LEMO plugs, and it's comfortable, but the ANR just isn't as good as the
Bose's. I think I'll be getting another Bose.
-Rob
On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 7:34 AM, Rob Kochman wrote:
Thanks, everyone. I just ordered the AKG and will try that, then make
a decision.
I actually already have a set of QT Halos. Very comfortable, but the
noise reduction isn't nearly as good as my A20s. The in-the-ear design
is ineffective in blocking low frequencies, in my experience.
-Rob
On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 6:20 AM, Geoff Combs
wrote:
I have 2 pairs A10 and 2 pairs A20=99s. The A20=99s are
better than the 10=9Ds. I have tried Zulu 2=99s a couple
times but always liked the Bose.
So we did a direct comparison in another RV-10 and they had
Lightspeed Zulu 2=99s. We were flying along for about 20 minutes.
He with his Zulu 2 and Myself with the A20. We swapped and flew for 10
minutes or so and we then gave our thoughts. We both felt the Bose was
superior to the lightspeed. AS for comfort I dislike the Zulu=99s
it=99s just not comfortable for me. I can fly 6-7 hours with the
Bose and not even realize I have them on. I think the fit and Comfort
for each individual is different but as for noise reduction and quality
I feel the Bose are superior. As for the service from Bose they have
been excellent. I take my in at Oshkosh every year and they have check
them and replaced items at no cost that they feel Need attention.
With my A20=99s on and no sunglasses you can almost not hear
my engine at cruise they are that quite. It took me a while to get use
to that.
FWIW
Buy what you want and feel comfortable in. They all work
Geoff Combs
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 12:25 PM
To: rv10-list
Subject: RV10-List: Lightspeed Zulu 2 and PFX in the RV-10
Last time I bought a headset, I compared the Bose A20 ad Lightspeed
Zulu 2, and the Zulu 2 had substantially worse Bose A20 noise reduction.
I need a new headset again, so I bought the Zulu PFX and flew with it
the other night. The PFX also has substantially worse noise reduction
than the A20. My A20 isn't quite comfortable on long flights, which I
why I keep trying alternatives.
Has anyone else compared the A20 to the Lightspeed headsets
head-to-head in the RV-10 and have a similar result? People generally
seem to prefer one over the other slightly, but the difference is huge
in my experience, which makes me think something else is going on (or
I'm just weird).
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Project For Sale RV-10 #14220 |
Failing memory health forces me to sell my RV-10 project: Kit with
factory assembled wings, all rest of kit assembled except pants,
fairings for struts and tail. Tanks tested, fuel lines (and return for
FI), beige interior by Flight Aware, panel with GRT 8" EFIS, 4 place
stereo intercom.
Presently has Mazda 3 rotor B-20 engine and controller & EM3 engine
monitor installed (overhauled by Bruce Turentine) awaiting pan,
alternators, water and oil radiators to be installed. Add prop to fly.
Asking $60K with engine, or $54K without.
Many more photos, detail list of panel details via email. Call Phil at
630/674-2116 cell. Located West of Chicago near LL-22.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Project For Sale RV-10 #14220 -- photos ?? |
I see my brief ad to sell my RV-10 shows up in today's posting and
digest, BUT the 4 photos do not. They were attached to the original
email, AND sent to the photo list with request that they be posted with
the email ad.
Did I misread your directions, or not follow them correctly? Any
help would be appreciated.
Phil White
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell prop lubrication |
I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance procedures for
the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over lubricate.
My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount of lubricant?
Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
Thanks,
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of adjacent
removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>
> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance
> procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over lubricate.
>
> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount of
> lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
Yes, put I usually pump out some old the dirty grease while I'm at it. I
think over lubricate would apply if you did not remove the bottom zerk and
pumped up the prop. I cant see over lubricating a prop that has room to ooze
out.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 9:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell prop lubrication
I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance procedures
for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over lubricate.
My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount of
lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
Thanks,
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk
which ever happens first.
Dave Leikam
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of
adjacent removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
>
> On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" > wrote:
>
>
> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance
procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over
lubricate.
>
> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount
of lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ==========
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
Bob,
I always remove the fitting on the leading edge and pump from the trailing edge
until i see movement of grease at the open hole. I then put the plug back in
and do the other blade. Some say just 2 pumps per fitting, but I don't know if
that is without removing the fittings or with them out.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:54 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance procedures for
the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over lubricate.
>
> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount of lubricant?
Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Project For Sale RV-10 #14220 -- photos ?? |
Hey Phil,
Your pictures came through on my email for the RV10 list ... not quite big
enough files to blow up for detail, but enough to see what you've got.
It's always sad to hear that a builder is selling for unfortunate
circumstances.
I wish you well on your journey, - Lew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <n205en(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat SCAT Tube Routing |
Attached is a photo of my SCAT tube solution. I made a fiberglass tube
to go around the Andair fuel valve stem. The tube is held in place by 2
pipe clamps that are riveted to the tunnel.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
Award for most accurate response. Believe it or not you can over
lubricate even with a zerk removed. If any of the old grease has
thickened/hardened, it will restrict grease coming out the zerk hole. I
generally limit to 4 strokes on hand grease gun or start of grease
coming out removed zerk hole.
Also, use precisely whatever grease the label on the prop calls for,
whether that is Aeroshell 6, 22 or some other flavor. Unlike oils,
greases do use different thickening agents, and they are not all
compatible. Do not worry about not having enough grease...there is
plenty in the hub, unless you see it slinging out the seals at the blade
roots.
Kelly
A&P/IA
On 3/31/2015 10:28 AM, David Leikam wrote:
> Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk
> which ever happens first.
>
> Dave Leikam
>
>> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox > > wrote:
>>
>> Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of
>> adjacent removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
>>
>> On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance
>> procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over
>> lubricate.
>>
>> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper
>> amount of lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other
>> fitting?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
I fail to understand why you would stop at 6? pumps when there's no
excess ..... and pumps aren't created equal. Anybody know why you'd
quit pumping before the cavity is full???
Linn ..... working on a Sam James plenum
On 3/31/2015 1:28 PM, David Leikam wrote:
> Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk
> which ever happens first.
>
> Dave Leikam
>
>> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox > > wrote:
>>
>> Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of
>> adjacent removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
>>
>> On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance
>> procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over
>> lubricate.
>>
>> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper
>> amount of lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other
>> fitting?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
You don't know that you haven't delivered an excess. You do NOT need the
cavity full. The prop really only needs 1-2 pumps of grease per blade.
The extra pumps are for those that may have substandard grease gun, to
give you a safe range without excess.
Excess will cause grease to get past the blade seals and may cause them
to fail. Based on both Hartzell rep and pubs, and prop overhaul shop.
On 3/31/2015 1:43 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> I fail to understand why you would stop at 6? pumps when there's no
> excess ..... and pumps aren't created equal. Anybody know why you'd
> quit pumping before the cavity is full???
> Linn ..... working on a Sam James plenum
>
> On 3/31/2015 1:28 PM, David Leikam wrote:
>> Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk
>> which ever happens first.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>>
>>> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox >> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of
>>> adjacent removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
>>>
>>> On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" >> > wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance
>>> procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over
>>> lubricate.
>>>
>>> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper
>>> amount of lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the
>>> other fitting?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I think that's the question I was getting at. Until it oozes out the othe
r side, you really have no idea the true quantity of grease in the hub.
It does make sense that you can't over fill with the other fitting off, but t
hen the warning seems a little silly.
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 4:43 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> I fail to understand why you would stop at 6? pumps when there's no excess
..... and pumps aren't created equal. Anybody know why you'd quit pumping b
efore the cavity is full???
> Linn ..... working on a Sam James plenum
>
>> On 3/31/2015 1:28 PM, David Leikam wrote:
>> Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk whic
h ever happens first.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>>
>>> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox wrote:
>>>
>>> Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of adjace
nt removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
>>>
>>>> On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance proced
ures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over lubricate.
>>>>
>>>> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount o
f lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> FORUMS -
>>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> b Site -
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>> ==========
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
When are people seeing grease coming out the other side? I've done 3
annuals now, doing 6 pumps per blade each time, and I haven't seen any come
out the other side yet.
On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 2:06 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> I think that's the question I was getting at. Until it oozes out the
> other side, you really have no idea the true quantity of grease in the hub.
>
>
> It does make sense that you can't over fill with the other fitting off,
> but then the warning seems a little silly.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 4:43 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> I fail to understand why you would stop at 6? pumps when there's no excess
> ..... and pumps aren't created equal. Anybody know why you'd quit pumping
> before the cavity is full???
> Linn ..... working on a Sam James plenum
>
> On 3/31/2015 1:28 PM, David Leikam wrote:
>
> Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk which
> ever happens first.
>
> Dave Leikam
>
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of
> adjacent removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
> On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>
>>
>> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance
>> procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over lubricate.
>>
>> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount of
>> lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
One important tip is to make sure you clean out the exit hole per
Hartzell=99s instructions, piece of safety wire works well. I
didn=99t do this at first but after pumping some grease in I
cleaned it out better and once the dried bit got out of the way some
came out under pressure. As long as you limit the number of pumps
it=99s probably not a huge deal, but if you are looking to see
some exit then it=99s critical otherwise you=99ll pump too
much in and it will find a way out in places you don=99t want it
to.
Marcus
On Mar 31, 2015, at 5:28 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
When are people seeing grease coming out the other side? I've done 3
annuals now, doing 6 pumps per blade each time, and I haven't seen any
come out the other side yet.
On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 2:06 PM, Bob Leffler > wrote:
I think that's the question I was getting at. Until it oozes out the
other side, you really have no idea the true quantity of grease in the
hub.
It does make sense that you can't over fill with the other fitting off,
but then the warning seems a little silly.
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 31, 2015, at 4:43 PM, Linn Walters > wrote:
> I fail to understand why you would stop at 6? pumps when there's no
excess ..... and pumps aren't created equal. Anybody know why you'd
quit pumping before the cavity is full???
> Linn ..... working on a Sam James plenum
>
> On 3/31/2015 1:28 PM, David Leikam wrote:
>> Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk
which ever happens first.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>>
>>> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox > wrote:
>>>
>>> Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of
adjacent removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
>>>
>>> On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" > wrote:
>
>>>
>>> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance
procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over
lubricate.
>>>
>>> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper
amount of lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other
fitting?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
lass="">
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
I with Linn- unless I can see grease, I would have no idea how much
grease is actually in the hub. I get it, after this thread, that 6 pumps
may be enough grease for the what Hartzell requires, but I prefer to
know there is grease coming out and that I am not short on grease (aka-
I thought I pumped it 6 times but the amount of grease that came out was
minimal for those pumps)
to answer your question Rob- every annual. What I find interesting is
that although I fill the hub, every year I seem to need 6 or more pumps
to get the grease to show, which tells me I use more grease each year
than I re-pump, hence my going until I see grease come out and
sometimes, as mentioned before, when its really dirty, until I see
cleaner grease.
3 years with no leaks, so I am happy knowing I have grease in the hub
and that it cleaner each year, than just 6 pumps.
From: Rob Kochman
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell prop lubrication
When are people seeing grease coming out the other side? I've done 3
annuals now, doing 6 pumps per blade each time, and I haven't seen any
come out the other side yet.
On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 2:06 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
I think that's the question I was getting at. Until it oozes out
the other side, you really have no idea the true quantity of grease in
the hub.
It does make sense that you can't over fill with the other fitting
off, but then the warning seems a little silly.
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 31, 2015, at 4:43 PM, Linn Walters
wrote:
I fail to understand why you would stop at 6? pumps when there's no
excess ..... and pumps aren't created equal. Anybody know why you'd
quit pumping before the cavity is full???
Linn ..... working on a Sam James plenum
On 3/31/2015 1:28 PM, David Leikam wrote:
Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite
zerk which ever happens first.
Dave Leikam
On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox
wrote:
Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads
of adjacent removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler"
wrote:
I've just started my conditional and was reading the
maintenance procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to
over lubricate.
My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the
proper amount of lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other
fitting?
Thanks,
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
==========
-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
lass="">
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
The manual for greasing the hub does not make a whole lot of sense IMHO. If the
hub is not leaking grease, as it should not do, it will eventually fill with
grease and after a few times servicing the hub will fill up and ooze out the the
removed zerk fitting hole. I pumped until I could observe movement of grease
inside the open zerk hole. Maybe I am wrong but I THINK the hub will eventually
fill up eventually?
David Clifford
N959RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 5:28:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell prop lubrication
When are people seeing grease coming out the other side? I've done 3 annuals now,
doing 6 pumps per blade each time, and I haven't seen any come out the other
side yet.
On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 2:06 PM, Bob Leffler < rv(at)thelefflers.com > wrote:
I think that's the question I was getting at. Until it oozes out the other side,
you really have no idea the true quantity of grease in the hub.
It does make sense that you can't over fill with the other fitting off, but then
the warning seems a little silly.
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 31, 2015, at 4:43 PM, Linn Walters < flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com > wrote:
I fail to understand why you would stop at 6? pumps when there's no excess .....
and pumps aren't created equal. Anybody know why you'd quit pumping before the
cavity is full???
Linn ..... working on a Sam James plenum
On 3/31/2015 1:28 PM, David Leikam wrote:
Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk which ever
happens first.
Dave Leikam
On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox < rv10pro(at)gmail.com > wrote:
Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of adjacent removed
zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" < rv(at)thelefflers.com > wrote:
I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance procedures for
the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over lubricate.
My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount of lubricant?
Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
Thanks,
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
===========
-List" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===========
FORUMS -
_blank"> http://forums.matronics.com
===========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========
3D============================================
lass="">
3D============================================
3D============================================
3D=============================================
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
I just finished my annual and the prop hub took exactly 4 pumps
Aeroshell 6 each zerk until grease started to poke out the opposite
zerk.
Just doing what the manual says. No problems in 375 hours.
Dave Leikam
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 5:30 PM, David Clifford
wrote:
>
> The manual for greasing the hub does not make a whole lot of sense
IMHO. If the hub is not leaking grease, as it should not do, it will
eventually fill with grease and after a few times servicing the hub
will fill up and ooze out the the removed zerk fitting hole. I pumped
until I could observe movement of grease inside the open zerk hole.
Maybe I am wrong but I THINK the hub will eventually fill up eventually?
>
> David Clifford
> N959RV
>
> From: "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
> To: "rv10-list"
> Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 5:28:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell prop lubrication
>
> When are people seeing grease coming out the other side? I've done 3
annuals now, doing 6 pumps per blade each time, and I haven't seen any
come out the other side yet.
>
> On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 2:06 PM, Bob Leffler > wrote:
> I think that's the question I was getting at. Until it oozes out
the other side, you really have no idea the true quantity of grease in
the hub.
>
> It does make sense that you can't over fill with the other fitting
off, but then the warning seems a little silly.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 4:43 PM, Linn Walters > wrote:
>
> I fail to understand why you would stop at 6? pumps when there's no
excess ..... and pumps aren't created equal. Anybody know why you'd
quit pumping before the cavity is full???
> Linn ..... working on a Sam James plenum
>
> On 3/31/2015 1:28 PM, David Leikam wrote:
> Max number of pumps (I believe 6) OR excess coming out opposite zerk
which ever happens first.
>
> Dave Leikam
>
> On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:04 PM, John Cox > wrote:
>
> Max number of pumps and excess coming out the opposing threads of
adjacent removed zerk. Per Hartzell S.L.
>
> On Mar 31, 2015 10:01 AM, "Bob Leffler" > wrote:
>
>
> I've just started my conditional and was reading the maintenance
procedures for the Hartzell prop. It cautions you not to over
lubricate.
>
> My naive question, is how can you tell when you have the proper amount
of lubricant? Is it when it starts oozing out the other fitting?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ==========
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
> lass="">
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
> get="_blank"
data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ta-mce-href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _blank"
data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matroni
cs.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I finally got a photo of my wing root edge guard product. As I mentioned earlier,
no trimming of the wing root material was required. It is still looking fine
at nearly seven years.
No comments about the dirty airplane! [Embarassed]
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440123#440123
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
| From: | "Ron B." <ronbelliveau(at)eastlink.ca> |
I was told by a Hartzell rep. that they would rather we not add any grease at all
rather than add more than the instructions say. You might want to check with
them.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440226#440226
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
I don't know, I think some of the doubters should test the theory and
just pump it full until it comes out...
I did that once a long time ago (maybe 2007 or 8), thinking that my
understanding was better than the manuals logic.
Eventually, I ended up having grease sling out of the hub, and
I had the prop re-sealed, which cost I think $860.
So, those that doubt the manual can test the theory and see if
they have the same problem. That way I won't be alone in the
boat. If it happens to a few dozen of us who didn't believe
the manual, then we'll know that the manual is smarter, right?
But, if nobody else has the problem, then we can know that our
vast pool of a couple dozen anecdotal cases are better than
the stuff Hartzel tells us. :)
I know me, I'm going to follow it to the letter from now on.
Tim
On 4/3/2015 12:01 AM, Ron B. wrote:
>
> I was told by a Hartzell rep. that they would rather we not add any grease at
all rather than add more than the instructions say. You might want to check with
them.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440226#440226
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
I had some grease or something on my windshield last year after my annual and going
to Oshkosh. Stopped at the hartzell booth to ask them their thoughts. They
were very
Responsive and concerned. I was then introduced to Scott Foster.
Talked to him he got my contact info
And called me the week after Oshkosh. They wanted to inspect my prop. Scott came
up the next week and we removed the spinner
Looked for leaks and determined a zerk fitting was a little loose. And leaking.
Tighten it up
Then we discussed the amount of grease. I had told him I pumped until
Some came out. He said that 2-3 pumps no more. I pumped way more than that. The
good news my prop was ok and he
Said everything looked great for almost 500 hrs. But he did say no more than 2
pumps and told me not to grease mine at the next annual.
Great customer service and Scott is great.
Then I took him for a ride in the RV-10. He was impressed with the performance
and loved the RV-10.
He was drinking the the RV-10 koolaid and loving it.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling & Design
> On Apr 3, 2015, at 1:01 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I don't know, I think some of the doubters should test the theory and
> just pump it full until it comes out...
>
> I did that once a long time ago (maybe 2007 or 8), thinking that my
> understanding was better than the manuals logic.
>
> Eventually, I ended up having grease sling out of the hub, and
> I had the prop re-sealed, which cost I think $860.
>
> So, those that doubt the manual can test the theory and see if
> they have the same problem. That way I won't be alone in the
> boat. If it happens to a few dozen of us who didn't believe
> the manual, then we'll know that the manual is smarter, right?
> But, if nobody else has the problem, then we can know that our
> vast pool of a couple dozen anecdotal cases are better than
> the stuff Hartzel tells us. :)
>
> I know me, I'm going to follow it to the letter from now on.
> Tim
>
>
>
>> On 4/3/2015 12:01 AM, Ron B. wrote:
>>
>> I was told by a Hartzell rep. that they would rather we not add any grease at
all rather than add more than the instructions say. You might want to check
with them.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440226#440226
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
Done the theory, no leakage thus far!
However, I appreciate this thread and will stick to the manual moving
forward. I always worried that I didnt have enough grease, seems that that
is normal and not to worry about!
Thx
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2015 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop lubrication
I don't know, I think some of the doubters should test the theory and
just pump it full until it comes out...
I did that once a long time ago (maybe 2007 or 8), thinking that my
understanding was better than the manuals logic.
Eventually, I ended up having grease sling out of the hub, and
I had the prop re-sealed, which cost I think $860.
So, those that doubt the manual can test the theory and see if
they have the same problem. That way I won't be alone in the
boat. If it happens to a few dozen of us who didn't believe
the manual, then we'll know that the manual is smarter, right?
But, if nobody else has the problem, then we can know that our
vast pool of a couple dozen anecdotal cases are better than
the stuff Hartzel tells us. :)
I know me, I'm going to follow it to the letter from now on.
Tim
On 4/3/2015 12:01 AM, Ron B. wrote:
>
> I was told by a Hartzell rep. that they would rather we not add any grease
> at all rather than add more than the instructions say. You might want to
> check with them.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440226#440226
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
So that leads to the question, why does their manual state six pumps? If that's
too much and they are recommending something different, shouldn't Hartzell
update the procedure in the manual?
Then we have the issue of does my gun pump the same volume as somebody else's?
It seems like it's still using a bit of magic and luck, since there is no effective
method to measure the actual volume of grease until you pump too much and
it oozes out the back.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 3, 2015, at 1:44 PM, g.combs wrote:
>
> he
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
It's a real WAG on my part, but I'm guessing that the volume of grease
isn't anywhere near critical. The WAG part: if there's sufficient grease
to coat the blade seal to keep it flexible and offer some lubrication to
the hub ... it's sufficient.
Linn
On 4/3/2015 2:54 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> So that leads to the question, why does their manual state six pumps? If that's
too much and they are recommending something different, shouldn't Hartzell
update the procedure in the manual?
>
> Then we have the issue of does my gun pump the same volume as somebody else's?
>
> It seems like it's still using a bit of magic and luck, since there is no effective
method to measure the actual volume of grease until you pump too much and
it oozes out the back.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 3, 2015, at 1:44 PM, g.combs wrote:
>>
>> he
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
Actually the manual states it more exactly, they say 1fl. oz which is
aprox 6 pumps with a ....
see attached
> On 4/3/2015 2:54 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> So that leads to the question, why does their manual state six
>> pumps? If that's too much and they are recommending something
>> different, shouldn't Hartzell update the procedure in the manual?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop lubrication |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Hartzell recommends 1 oz or 6 strokes in their 30 minute Propeller Maintenance
video.
Six strokes on my gun provides about 1/4 oz. of Aeroshell 6. I will stick with
6 strokes and very little leakage.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440270#440270
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)gmail.com> |
Provided 1/16" clearance between fuse and fairing. Sanded/cleaned/alodined, fillet
of proseal and painted with the rest of the plane. Still looks fine.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440271#440271
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall Passthroughs - Redux |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Quite some time ago I posted a query regarding firewall pass throughs for control
cables.
Here is what I used from ACS: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/6000metalgrommets.php?clickkey=729558
There weren't easy to find on the ACS website but they work just great. The pix
is a bit misleading - three will fit within the spacing of the firewall insert.
I had to clock the middle insert so it would ft but that was quite easy to
do,.
If you use these, be sure to get the right size "ball" insert for your control
cables.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440343#440343
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Insurance mystery |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I don't get it. There is an insurance company that baffles my mind. They specialize
in direct sales (which you would think would be efficient), and advertise
heavily to the experimental community in direct mail, magazine ads, a huge
presence at OSH, etc.
I get mailers all the time from this company and twice I have allowed them to offer
me a quote, and both times that have been nearly twice as much as what I
eventually ended up with.
This last time I asked the embarrassed rep of this company why their quotes are
so out of line and the answer I received was that the company truly isn't interested
in making competitive quotes to experimental aircraft. So why, I asked,
do they spend so much in marketing to a market segment they don't want? "I
don't know" was the answer. "We deal with this every day."
I told them they could reduce their mailing costs by removing me from their list
and that they should probably reconsider their expensive ads claiming to love
experimental business. Obviously they must underwrite enough paper to stay
in business, but it sure seems like a strange way to operate to me.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440391#440391
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance mystery |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I can't confirm that you are right ... But I would correct you if you were wrong.
:D
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440395#440395
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance mystery |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
Myron, I had the exact same experience, two quotes over two years, both
more than twice the amount of the others, and finally telling them to
stop mailing me.
I have to admit I like Tim's "mail back" program better! :-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I am interested in a gust lock and am wondering if there are any current opinions
regarding same.
I am thinking that something that pins the surfaces is not what I want - I think
I would prefer something that has a little give (ie uses elastics / bungee cords).
I do have an email into Wild Blue Innovations but haven't heard back from them.
I do have a couple of limitations -I have Control Approach rudder pedals and my
control sticks have covers.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440398#440398
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I have tried a couple, but I am back to H-Man. PVC pipe with rubber chair
legs on one end and PVC cut on the other end to match the pedals. Use seat
belt for stick. Hard to take off with them in......always placed on pilot
side.
I know it now exactly an H....looks something like this. All parts came
from the aviation department of Home Depot.
-----| |-----
|--------|
-----| |-----
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kearney
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 5:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gust Locks
Hi
I am interested in a gust lock and am wondering if there are any current
opinions regarding same.
I am thinking that something that pins the surfaces is not what I want - I
think I would prefer something that has a little give (ie uses elastics /
bungee cords).
I do have an email into Wild Blue Innovations but haven't heard back from
them.
I do have a couple of limitations -I have Control Approach rudder pedals and
my control sticks have covers.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440398#440398
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
i have been happy with the GUST BUSTER
Alan
N6668G
> On Apr 7, 2015, at 7:19 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I am interested in a gust lock and am wondering if there are any current opinions
regarding same.
>
> I am thinking that something that pins the surfaces is not what I want - I think
I would prefer something that has a little give (ie uses elastics / bungee
cords).
>
> I do have an email into Wild Blue Innovations but haven't heard back from them.
>
> I do have a couple of limitations -I have Control Approach rudder pedals and
my control sticks have covers.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440398#440398
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I have the same pedals. I made something out of pvc. I took t joints and cut
them so they slip over the the top of the bottom pedal. I did something similar
to fit the top of the seat box. I use Velcro that is fastened to the
pvc to hold the stick in place. It works pretty good.
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 7, 2015, at 7:19 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I am interested in a gust lock and am wondering if there are any current opinions
regarding same.
>
> I am thinking that something that pins the surfaces is not what I want - I think
I would prefer something that has a little give (ie uses elastics / bungee
cords).
>
> I do have an email into Wild Blue Innovations but haven't heard back from them.
>
> I do have a couple of limitations -I have Control Approach rudder pedals and
my control sticks have covers.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440398#440398
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Alan
Will the gust buster accommodate a cover on the control stick?
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440406#440406
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance mystery |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
What a coincidence! Although I didn't bother last year, just last month I asked
AVEMCO for a quote. Just to see if anything had changed. The answer is no change.
Coverage limits are still "per person", not "per passenger" like everyone
else. And, almost twice as expensive as my current policy (up for renewal soon).
BUT, when I asked for a quote 2 years ago, they did send me a nice baseball
cap with their name on it. My hangar-neighbor remarked that that was the most
expensive cap he had ever seen.
For Bob: I'm with USAIG thru Nationair. We had them many years ago when a partner
had a prop strike, and we had nothing but the best experience with their claims
guy. I also like their plain language policy. It even tells me what they'll
pay for my labor, if I choose to repair a covered claim myself!
BTW: Two years ago I asked Jenny (Nationair) why they didn't quote company X, which
some others were reporting as offering very attractive rates. She told me
that they wouldn't quote a company if they had doubts about their actual ability
to stick around and pay for losses. A year later company X was no longer in
the business. That's the kind of advice you pay a good broker for.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440409#440409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I have the Bogart (sp?) tow bar, with the slight mod of two tabs attached to the
ends to go over the rudder bars, under the brakes. Not sure if that works with
your pedals. Handle goes against the seat back, held down by seat belt. stick
goes thru the triangular hole. Not sure if your cover will fit, but the hole
is pretty big. Use the other seat belt to hold the stick firmly in the 'V'.
Hunt around the forum, I'm sure there are pictures somewhere. Works great, cost
nothing, adds no extra weight, since I carry the tow bar anyway.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440410#440410
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
do you have a picture of your cover?
alan
> On Apr 7, 2015, at 8:08 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Alan
>
> Will the gust buster accommodate a cover on the control stick?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440406#440406
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
les,
the gust buster attaches about half way down the control.
alan
> On Apr 7, 2015, at 8:08 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Alan
>
> Will the gust buster accommodate a cover on the control stick?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440406#440406
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance mystery |
Isn't Avemco promoted by EAA? Or are they just a big advertiser? I would think
that EAA wouldn't want to be associated with a company that does such a poor
job with homebuilders.
Tim
> On Apr 7, 2015, at 7:24 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> What a coincidence! Although I didn't bother last year, just last month I asked
AVEMCO for a quote. Just to see if anything had changed. The answer is no change.
Coverage limits are still "per person", not "per passenger" like everyone
else. And, almost twice as expensive as my current policy (up for renewal soon).
BUT, when I asked for a quote 2 years ago, they did send me a nice baseball
cap with their name on it. My hangar-neighbor remarked that that was the most
expensive cap he had ever seen.
>
> For Bob: I'm with USAIG thru Nationair. We had them many years ago when a partner
had a prop strike, and we had nothing but the best experience with their
claims guy. I also like their plain language policy. It even tells me what they'll
pay for my labor, if I choose to repair a covered claim myself!
>
> BTW: Two years ago I asked Jenny (Nationair) why they didn't quote company X,
which some others were reporting as offering very attractive rates. She told
me that they wouldn't quote a company if they had doubts about their actual ability
to stick around and pay for losses. A year later company X was no longer
in the business. That's the kind of advice you pay a good broker for.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440409#440409
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
Les;
I miss some e-mails for some reason so I am only seeing your response and
not who Alan is, however I have a antisplat gust lock that does require me
to unzip the control stick cover and also requires the wires be routed on
the inside of the stick, as the retainer is bolted to control stick.
If you dont mind unzipping the cover and your wires are on the inside, I
highly recommend it. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html
another option, a home brew is-
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=120730&highlight=gust+lock
-----Original Message-----
From: kearney
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 5:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Gust Locks
Alan
Will the gust buster accommodate a cover on the control stick?
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440406#440406
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance mystery |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Tim Olson wrote:
> Isn't Avemco promoted by EAA? Or are they just a big advertiser? I would think
that EAA wouldn't want to be associated with a company that does such a poor
job with homebuilders.
> Tim
>
EAA and AVEMCO used to have some sort of official relationship, but had a friendly
divorce some years ago.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440420#440420
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lord adhesive window installation question |
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
Hi everyone. I'm ready to attach the windows in my RV-10 and am looking for advice
on those who have used the Lord 7545 A/E adhesive sold by Geoff at Aerosport
Products. After reading lots of positive comments from here about it, I obtained
a few tubes from him.
The plans call for installing the windows onto the doors when the doors are off
and laying flat, presumably to allow gravity to help hold them in place while
they are being cured. Of course, the rear windows can't be installed with that
luxury, but they're smaller and lighter. And the windscreen rests largely
on the nose while curing, so that should be less of an issue too.
But my question is, considering that Lord Adhesive is different than Vans' would
have us use anyway, is it sticky enough that I could install the windows on
the doors while the doors are closed and on the plane - in essentially the same
orientation as the rear windows? The reason I ask isn't due to laziness :-)
But instead, I'm one of the lucky ones whose doors ended up fitting quite well
without a lot of work. And I figure that if the windows are attached to the
doors while the doors are in their proper latched position, they can only help
(slightly) to further stiffen the door in the proper position. The last thing
I want to do is to fit the windows to the doors when the doors are on the
floor, and then find that gravity warped things slightly while they were curing,
and the doors no longer fit properly. It would seem to me that adhering the
windows to the doors when the doors are in their closed position will help keep
everything aligned properly, so long as the Lord adhesive is sticky enough
before fully cured that it will hold the window tightly to the door and in place
while it is curing.
Thanks!
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lord adhesive window installation question |
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
The short answer is no. You need minimal pressure to hold the windows in p
lace. If gravity causes any movement at all, you're going to have a major h
eadache on your hands to resolve. I did my doors laying flat. On the rear
windows I made fingers out of scrap aluminum to hold the pieces in place th
at were cleco'd to the cabin cover. You could do the same on the doors. T
he angle of the bend determines how much pressure is applied. You don't n
eed much, just enough to keep things from moving.
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 8, 2015, at 1:42 AM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
>
> Hi everyone. I'm ready to attach the windows in my RV-10 and am looking f
or advice on those who have used the Lord 7545 A/E adhesive sold by Geoff at
Aerosport Products. After reading lots of positive comments from here abou
t it, I obtained a few tubes from him.
>
> The plans call for installing the windows onto the doors when the doors ar
e off and laying flat, presumably to allow gravity to help hold them in plac
e while they are being cured. Of course, the rear windows can't be installe
d with that luxury, but they're smaller and lighter. And the windscreen res
ts largely on the nose while curing, so that should be less of an issue too.
>
> But my question is, considering that Lord Adhesive is different than Vans'
would have us use anyway, is it sticky enough that I could install the wind
ows on the doors while the doors are closed and on the plane - in essentiall
y the same orientation as the rear windows? The reason I ask isn't due to l
aziness :-) But instead, I'm one of the lucky ones whose doors ended up fit
ting quite well without a lot of work. And I figure that if the windows are
attached to the doors while the doors are in their proper latched position,
they can only help (slightly) to further stiffen the door in the proper pos
ition. The last thing I want to do is to fit the windows to the doors when t
he doors are on the floor, and then find that gravity warped things slightly
while they were curing, and the doors no longer fit properly. It would see
m to me that adhering the windows to the doors when the doors are in their c
losed position will help keep everything aligned properly, so long as the Lo
rd!
> adhesive is sticky enough before fully cured that it will hold the window
tightly to the door and in place while it is curing.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>