RV10-Archive.digest.vol-kn

May 10, 2015 - Present



      >> Alan
      >>
      >> Sent from my iPhone
      >>
      >> On May 10, 2015, at 7:24 PM, Jesse Saint > > wrote:
      >>
      >>> Ever is a long time. I am sure Foreflight will have to start 
      >>> supporting other ads-b formats before long or they will be unable to 
      >>> compete. They are very conservative, so they are late adopters of 
      >>> certain features/compatibilities, but when something is out, stable 
      >>> and dependable, they will be, IMHO, more open to adding compatibility.
      >>>
      >>> Jesse Saint
      >>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
      >>> 352-427-0285
      >>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com 
      >>>
      >>> Sent from my iPad
      >>>
      >>> On May 10, 2015, at 6:19 PM, Bob Leffler >> > wrote:
      >>>
      >>>> Bill is partially correct.    I doubt that Foreflight will ever 
      >>>> support NavWorx.    Now if you want to use WingX or another 
      >>>> application, it shouldn't be a problem.
      >>>>
      >>>> Sent from my iPad
      >>>>
      >>>> On May 10, 2015, at 5:14 PM, Tim Olson >>> > wrote:
      >>>>
      >>>>> Why do you say the NavWorX will never be able to be hooked to your 
      >>>>> iPad?  I'm assuming you just have it connected to the GRT via 
      >>>>> RS232.  If so, you can just split the TX wire and send it to the 
      >>>>> Wifi adapter.  It should easily be able to do both GRT and iPad.
      >>>>> Tim
      >>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>> On May 10, 2015, at 3:58 PM, Bill Watson >>>> > wrote:
      >>>>>
      >>>>>> I have an iPad running Foreflight pro with the Bad Elf GPS puck 
      >>>>>> (my original iPad was wifi only so it required a separate GPS 
      >>>>>> puck, my current iPad has the internal GPS but I still use the puck).
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> I have a separate Navworx ADSB receiver that will never be able 
      >>>>>> to be linked to my iPad - so no weather or traffic is displayed 
      >>>>>> on the iPad.  Instead I look to my primary EFIS displays (Grand 
      >>>>>> Rapids HXs) for weather and traffic overlayed on the navigation 
      >>>>>> screens.  The iPad is a supplement... but a drool worthy one that 
      >>>>>> I don't leave home without.
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> I file and fly IFR on practically every flight.  Flight planning 
      >>>>>> and filing is done on the iPad using Foreflight.  Every base is 
      >>>>>> well covered by Foreflight and it still manages to delight when I 
      >>>>>> need something new like filing an ICAO flight plan for an 
      >>>>>> international flight to the Bahamas.  Often the planning and 
      >>>>>> filing is done in a hotel room, in a car or at the FBO.  I rarely 
      >>>>>> use FBO flight planning rooms or equipment.
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> I learned the art of chart folding and pencil management flying 
      >>>>>> single pilot IFR without an AP.  But since then I've gone 
      >>>>>> paperless with the iPad and Foreflight.  No charts, no pencils, 
      >>>>>> just a subscription, a stylus for writing clearances on the 
      >>>>>> Foreflight scratch pad, and an iPhone running Foreflight for 
      >>>>>> backup (the second copy is part of the basic or pro Foreflight 
      >>>>>> package).
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> The key to making this work for me was a good mount.  I built a 
      >>>>>> fiberglass center console that 1) houses a O2 bottle and 2) 
      >>>>>> holds  a RAM mount for the iPad that puts it right under my right 
      >>>>>> hand during flight so it can be easily used.  You can see it here 
      >>>>>> Kitlog page of console construction 
      >>>>>> <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=8533> 
      >>>>>> (I really need a picture of it being used in the cockpit).  I 
      >>>>>> also added a USB charging port which typically gets used for my 
      >>>>>> wife's phone.  The iPad's capacity is equivalent to the 10's range.
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> I don't know where the sweet spot is but the iPad with Foreflight 
      >>>>>> Pro or it's equivalent is a required part of my IFR flying.  I do 
      >>>>>> my 'tactical' flying with my panel mounted EFISs but all 
      >>>>>> planning, what-ifs, thinking and re-orienting is done with the 
      >>>>>> iPad. Geo-referenced taxi diagrams is almost worth the price if 
      >>>>>> you fly into a lot of new-to-you larger airports.  It's a fair 
      >>>>>> price for a whole lot of benefit.  It's a game changer, a 
      >>>>>> drooler, a "I'll never go back" kind of tool.
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> Looking at the bigger picture, portables enable us to keep our 
      >>>>>> cockpits current at a much more reasonable cost than a panel 
      >>>>>> upgrade.  My panel was set in stone in late 2008.  A lot has 
      >>>>>> happened since then.  While software upgrades to my EFIS and 
      >>>>>> other components have helped keep them somewhat current, we rely 
      >>>>>> on the portable to get the latest functions implemented in  the 
      >>>>>> best possible ways, e.g. touch screen functionality, faster 
      >>>>>> processors, higher resolution screens.  None of these are 'must 
      >>>>>> haves' but they are very very nice to haves and they are 
      >>>>>> available for a fraction of the cost of panel upgrades.
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> On 5/9/2015 10:46 AM, kearney wrote:
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>> Hi
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>> For the past couple of weeks I have been working on renewing my IFR rating.
      In the process I have started lusting / drooling over the IPAD my instructor
      used. It had georefed plates. I on the other hand was using low tech paper.
      His gear / subscription cost beaucoup de dineros.
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>> Being a frugal (ie miserly pilot) I am wondering what IPAD /  tablet /
      mini PC and subscription options others are using. I am especially interested
      in where the cost / benefit sweet spot is.
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>> Cheers
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>> Les
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>> Read this topic online here:
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441931#441931
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>> -----
      >>>>>>> No virus found in this message.
      >>>>>>> Checked by AVG -www.avg.com
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>>
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> *
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> *
      >>>>> *
      >>>>>
      >>>>> D============================================
      >>>>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      >>>>> D============================================
      >>>>> //forums.matronics.com  <http://forums.matronics.com>
      >>>>> D============================================
      >>>>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >>>>> D============================================
      >>>>>
      >>>>> *
      >>>> *
      >>>>
      >>>> D============================================
      >>>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      >>>> D============================================
      >>>> //forums.matronics.com  <http://forums.matronics.com>
      >>>> D============================================
      >>>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >>>> D============================================
      >>>>
      >>>> *
      >>> *
      >>>
      >>> D============================================
      >>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      >>> D============================================
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      >>> D============================================
      >>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >>> D============================================
      >>>
      >>> *
      >> *
      >>
      >> D============================================
      >> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      >> D============================================
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      >> D============================================
      >> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >> D============================================
      >>
      >> *
      > *
      >
      >
      > *
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com>
Subject: Re: Tech in the front office
Date: May 10, 2015
Shame Dynon wont work to get the Navworx to be seen on their Display. I understand a possible conflict of their interest, as Dynon was on the Navworx list, than disappeared once Dynon went on their "trig" route. For us who had the display before the transponder and other products were released, we're "on hold" until that happens. -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 5:57 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tech in the front office I assume you mean their ADS-B In receiver. Trig makes the Avidyne 340 ADS-B Out for them. It is basically a TT31 with a different front faceplate. Ditto the KN-74, and the Dynon 1090ES that is a TT21/22 with Dynon label. On 5/10/2015 5:19 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > And NavWorX makes Avidyne's box for them... > Tim > > > On May 10, 2015, at 6:50 PM, Alan Mekler MD > wrote: > >> Jesse, >> I heard Avidyne will be using wifi and Foreflight . >> Alan >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On May 10, 2015, at 7:24 PM, Jesse Saint > > wrote: >> >>> Ever is a long time. I am sure Foreflight will have to start supporting >>> other ads-b formats before long or they will be unable to compete. They >>> are very conservative, so they are late adopters of certain >>> features/compatibilities, but when something is out, stable and >>> dependable, they will be, IMHO, more open to adding compatibility. >>> >>> Jesse Saint >>> Saint Aviation, Inc. >>> 352-427-0285 >>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> >>> On May 10, 2015, at 6:19 PM, Bob Leffler >> > wrote: >>> >>>> Bill is partially correct. I doubt that Foreflight will ever support >>>> NavWorx. Now if you want to use WingX or another application, it >>>> shouldn't be a problem. >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPad >>>> >>>> On May 10, 2015, at 5:14 PM, Tim Olson >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>>> Why do you say the NavWorX will never be able to be hooked to your >>>>> iPad? I'm assuming you just have it connected to the GRT via RS232. >>>>> If so, you can just split the TX wire and send it to the Wifi adapter. >>>>> It should easily be able to do both GRT and iPad. >>>>> Tim >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On May 10, 2015, at 3:58 PM, Bill Watson >>>> > wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I have an iPad running Foreflight pro with the Bad Elf GPS puck (my >>>>>> original iPad was wifi only so it required a separate GPS puck, my >>>>>> current iPad has the internal GPS but I still use the puck). >>>>>> >>>>>> I have a separate Navworx ADSB receiver that will never be able to be >>>>>> linked to my iPad - so no weather or traffic is displayed on the >>>>>> iPad. Instead I look to my primary EFIS displays (Grand Rapids HXs) >>>>>> for weather and traffic overlayed on the navigation screens. The >>>>>> iPad is a supplement... but a drool worthy one that I don't leave >>>>>> home without. >>>>>> >>>>>> I file and fly IFR on practically every flight. Flight planning and >>>>>> filing is done on the iPad using Foreflight. Every base is well >>>>>> covered by Foreflight and it still manages to delight when I need >>>>>> something new like filing an ICAO flight plan for an international >>>>>> flight to the Bahamas. Often the planning and filing is done in a >>>>>> hotel room, in a car or at the FBO. I rarely use FBO flight planning >>>>>> rooms or equipment. >>>>>> >>>>>> I learned the art of chart folding and pencil management flying >>>>>> single pilot IFR without an AP. But since then I've gone paperless >>>>>> with the iPad and Foreflight. No charts, no pencils, just a >>>>>> subscription, a stylus for writing clearances on the Foreflight >>>>>> scratch pad, and an iPhone running Foreflight for backup (the second >>>>>> copy is part of the basic or pro Foreflight package). >>>>>> >>>>>> The key to making this work for me was a good mount. I built a >>>>>> fiberglass center console that 1) houses a O2 bottle and 2) holds a >>>>>> RAM mount for the iPad that puts it right under my right hand during >>>>>> flight so it can be easily used. You can see it here Kitlog page of >>>>>> console construction >>>>>> <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=8533> >>>>>> (I really need a picture of it being used in the cockpit). I also >>>>>> added a USB charging port which typically gets used for my wife's >>>>>> phone. The iPad's capacity is equivalent to the 10's range. >>>>>> >>>>>> I don't know where the sweet spot is but the iPad with Foreflight Pro >>>>>> or it's equivalent is a required part of my IFR flying. I do my >>>>>> 'tactical' flying with my panel mounted EFISs but all planning, >>>>>> what-ifs, thinking and re-orienting is done with the iPad. >>>>>> Geo-referenced taxi diagrams is almost worth the price if you fly >>>>>> into a lot of new-to-you larger airports. It's a fair price for a >>>>>> whole lot of benefit. It's a game changer, a drooler, a "I'll never >>>>>> go back" kind of tool. >>>>>> >>>>>> Looking at the bigger picture, portables enable us to keep our >>>>>> cockpits current at a much more reasonable cost than a panel upgrade. >>>>>> My panel was set in stone in late 2008. A lot has happened since >>>>>> then. While software upgrades to my EFIS and other components have >>>>>> helped keep them somewhat current, we rely on the portable to get the >>>>>> latest functions implemented in the best possible ways, e.g. touch >>>>>> screen functionality, faster processors, higher resolution screens. >>>>>> None of these are 'must haves' but they are very very nice to haves >>>>>> and they are available for a fraction of the cost of panel upgrades. >>>>>> >>>>>> On 5/9/2015 10:46 AM, kearney wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>> >>>>>>> For the past couple of weeks I have been working on renewing my IFR >>>>>>> rating. In the process I have started lusting / drooling over the >>>>>>> IPAD my instructor used. It had georefed plates. I on the other hand >>>>>>> was using low tech paper. His gear / subscription cost beaucoup de >>>>>>> dineros. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Being a frugal (ie miserly pilot) I am wondering what IPAD / tablet >>>>>>> / mini PC and subscription options others are using. I am especially >>>>>>> interested in where the cost / benefit sweet spot is. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Cheers >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Les >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441931#441931 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ----- >>>>>>> No virus found in this message. >>>>>>> Checked by AVG -www.avg.com >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> * >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> * >>>>> * >>>>> >>>>> D============================================ >>>>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>>>> D============================================ >>>>> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >>>>> D============================================ >>>>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>>> D============================================ >>>>> >>>>> * >>>> * >>>> >>>> D============================================ >>>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>>> D============================================ >>>> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >>>> D============================================ >>>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>> D============================================ >>>> >>>> * >>> * >>> >>> D============================================ >>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> D============================================ >>> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >>> D============================================ >>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> D============================================ >>> >>> * >> * >> >> D============================================ >> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> D============================================ >> //forums.matronics.com >> D============================================ >> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> D============================================ >> >> * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2015
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tech in the front office
Yes, that's what I meant. Whether the reasons are due to business relationships or conservatism/stability, I have seen no indication that there is any plan to link Navworx/ADSB Wx and traffic with Foreflight. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to continue to make noise about it. OTOH, while it would be real nice to display at least Navworx generated Nexrad imagery on Foreflight, I don't really miss it. I try to keep my eyeballs on the EFIS displays as much as possible. In VMC conditions it keeps my eyes closer to looking outside. In IMC it keeps my eyes on what needs to be scanned to keep the airplane upright even if I let Tiger do most of the flying. So the first priority is having as much information as possible displayed on the panel mounted EFISs including weather and traffic. The iPad is for planning and what-ifs. For example, the iPad map is always 'north up', the EFIS map is always heading up. I never skew the map display on the EFIS but constantly skew it on the iPad. I've spent zero time checking out the AI and Syn Vision functions on Foreflight (I don't think I have everything it takes to enable them). My primary and backup instruments are all panel mounted. That is, if the stuff hits the fan I want everything I need on the installed panel. Then I'm sure it would be nice to have the iPad to help out if available. My primary wish list involves upgraded EFISs for faster processors and higher resolution displays so that things like plate overlays would work satisfactorily. Upgraded GRT units are available but would require more panel reengineering than is justified right now. That makes the iPad, and in my case Foreflight, the sweet spot for investments. But having had my initial IFR flying done with a six pack sans AP, my GRT/Garmin/Trutrak panel continues to be wonderful and surprising.... the first time I saw some crossing traffic whiz by on my synthetic visions display, I had to chuckle. I didn't know it would do that! That was almost as good as sitting in my half built fuselage after upgrading my GRTs with Synthetic Vision... sitting in a windowless hangar, I powered it up and all of a sudden a picture of the runway and lake outside appeared on the screens! Oh Yeah!! Bill "think I'm going to Pittsburgh later today to see my Mom" Watson On 5/10/2015 6:19 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > Bill is partially correct. I doubt that Foreflight will ever > support NavWorx. Now if you want to use WingX or another > application, it shouldn't be a problem. > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 10, 2015, at 5:14 PM, Tim Olson > wrote: > >> Why do you say the NavWorX will never be able to be hooked to your >> iPad? I'm assuming you just have it connected to the GRT via RS232. >> If so, you can just split the TX wire and send it to the Wifi >> adapter. It should easily be able to do both GRT and iPad. >> Tim >> >> >> >> On May 10, 2015, at 3:58 PM, Bill Watson > > wrote: >> >>> I have an iPad running Foreflight pro with the Bad Elf GPS puck (my >>> original iPad was wifi only so it required a separate GPS puck, my >>> current iPad has the internal GPS but I still use the puck). >>> >>> I have a separate Navworx ADSB receiver that will never be able to >>> be linked to my iPad - so no weather or traffic is displayed on the >>> iPad. Instead I look to my primary EFIS displays (Grand Rapids HXs) >>> for weather and traffic overlayed on the navigation screens. The >>> iPad is a supplement... but a drool worthy one that I don't leave >>> home without. >>> >>> I file and fly IFR on practically every flight. Flight planning and >>> filing is done on the iPad using Foreflight. Every base is well >>> covered by Foreflight and it still manages to delight when I need >>> something new like filing an ICAO flight plan for an international >>> flight to the Bahamas. Often the planning and filing is done in a >>> hotel room, in a car or at the FBO. I rarely use FBO flight >>> planning rooms or equipment. >>> >>> I learned the art of chart folding and pencil management flying >>> single pilot IFR without an AP. But since then I've gone paperless >>> with the iPad and Foreflight. No charts, no pencils, just a >>> subscription, a stylus for writing clearances on the Foreflight >>> scratch pad, and an iPhone running Foreflight for backup (the second >>> copy is part of the basic or pro Foreflight package). >>> >>> The key to making this work for me was a good mount. I built a >>> fiberglass center console that 1) houses a O2 bottle and 2) holds a >>> RAM mount for the iPad that puts it right under my right hand during >>> flight so it can be easily used. You can see it here Kitlog page of >>> console construction >>> <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=8533> >>> (I really need a picture of it being used in the cockpit). I also >>> added a USB charging port which typically gets used for my wife's >>> phone. The iPad's capacity is equivalent to the 10's range. >>> >>> I don't know where the sweet spot is but the iPad with Foreflight >>> Pro or it's equivalent is a required part of my IFR flying. I do my >>> 'tactical' flying with my panel mounted EFISs but all planning, >>> what-ifs, thinking and re-orienting is done with the iPad. >>> Geo-referenced taxi diagrams is almost worth the price if you fly >>> into a lot of new-to-you larger airports. It's a fair price for a >>> whole lot of benefit. It's a game changer, a drooler, a "I'll never >>> go back" kind of tool. >>> >>> Looking at the bigger picture, portables enable us to keep our >>> cockpits current at a much more reasonable cost than a panel >>> upgrade. My panel was set in stone in late 2008. A lot has >>> happened since then. While software upgrades to my EFIS and other >>> components have helped keep them somewhat current, we rely on the >>> portable to get the latest functions implemented in the best >>> possible ways, e.g. touch screen functionality, faster processors, >>> higher resolution screens. None of these are 'must haves' but they >>> are very very nice to haves and they are available for a fraction of >>> the cost of panel upgrades. >>> >>> On 5/9/2015 10:46 AM, kearney wrote: >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Tech in the front office
Date: May 11, 2015
I fully agree with Bill=99s statement on having what you need on the EFIS display. Attached is a screen shoot taken on an IFR trip from Macon Georgia back to Fredericksburg Virginia with a lot of navigating around a stalled weather line. While it is possible to do all this on an iPad, I would not want to do this with the iPad as the primary information integration tool. Note =93 I normally have the engine data on the other display. I added it to the primary display only to get everything on one screen shoot. Typical set up is to have moving map and PDF on the pilot side EFIS, engine display with IFR/VFR chart or approach plate on the co-pilot EFIS. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson Sent: Monday, May 11, 2015 10:49 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tech in the front office Yes, that's what I meant. Whether the reasons are due to business relationships or conservatism/stability, I have seen no indication that there is any plan to link Navworx/ADSB Wx and traffic with Foreflight. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to continue to make noise about it. OTOH, while it would be real nice to display at least Navworx generated Nexrad imagery on Foreflight, I don't really miss it. I try to keep my eyeballs on the EFIS displays as much as possible. In VMC conditions it keeps my eyes closer to looking outside. In IMC it keeps my eyes on what needs to be scanned to keep the airplane upright even if I let Tiger do most of the flying. So the first priority is having as much information as possible displayed on the panel mounted EFISs including weather and traffic. The iPad is for planning and what-ifs. For example, the iPad map is always 'north up', the EFIS map is always heading up. I never skew the map display on the EFIS but constantly skew it on the iPad. I've spent zero time checking out the AI and Syn Vision functions on Foreflight (I don't think I have everything it takes to enable them). My primary and backup instruments are all panel mounted. That is, if the stuff hits the fan I want everything I need on the installed panel. Then I'm sure it would be nice to have the iPad to help out if available. My primary wish list involves upgraded EFISs for faster processors and higher resolution displays so that things like plate overlays would work satisfactorily. Upgraded GRT units are available but would require more panel reengineering than is justified right now. That makes the iPad, and in my case Foreflight, the sweet spot for investments. But having had my initial IFR flying done with a six pack sans AP, my GRT/Garmin/Trutrak panel continues to be wonderful and surprising.... the first time I saw some crossing traffic whiz by on my synthetic visions display, I had to chuckle. I didn't know it would do that! That was almost as good as sitting in my half built fuselage after upgrading my GRTs with Synthetic Vision... sitting in a windowless hangar, I powered it up and all of a sudden a picture of the runway and lake outside appeared on the screens! Oh Yeah!! Bill "think I'm going to Pittsburgh later today to see my Mom" Watson On 5/10/2015 6:19 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: Bill is partially correct. I doubt that Foreflight will ever support NavWorx. Now if you want to use WingX or another application, it shouldn't be a problem. Sent from my iPad On May 10, 2015, at 5:14 PM, Tim Olson wrote: Why do you say the NavWorX will never be able to be hooked to your iPad? I'm assuming you just have it connected to the GRT via RS232. If so, you can just split the TX wire and send it to the Wifi adapter. It should easily be able to do both GRT and iPad. Tim On May 10, 2015, at 3:58 PM, Bill Watson wrote: I have an iPad running Foreflight pro with the Bad Elf GPS puck (my original iPad was wifi only so it required a separate GPS puck, my current iPad has the internal GPS but I still use the puck). I have a separate Navworx ADSB receiver that will never be able to be linked to my iPad - so no weather or traffic is displayed on the iPad. Instead I look to my primary EFIS displays (Grand Rapids HXs) for weather and traffic overlayed on the navigation screens. The iPad is a supplement... but a drool worthy one that I don't leave home without. I file and fly IFR on practically every flight. Flight planning and filing is done on the iPad using Foreflight. Every base is well covered by Foreflight and it still manages to delight when I need something new like filing an ICAO flight plan for an international flight to the Bahamas. Often the planning and filing is done in a hotel room, in a car or at the FBO. I rarely use FBO flight planning rooms or equipment. I learned the art of chart folding and pencil management flying single pilot IFR without an AP. But since then I've gone paperless with the iPad and Foreflight. No charts, no pencils, just a subscription, a stylus for writing clearances on the Foreflight scratch pad, and an iPhone running Foreflight for backup (the second copy is part of the basic or pro Foreflight package). The key to making this work for me was a good mount. I built a fiberglass center console that 1) houses a O2 bottle and 2) holds a RAM mount for the iPad that puts it right under my right hand during flight so it can be easily used. You can see it here Kitlog page of console construction <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project= 224&category=8533> (I really need a picture of it being used in the cockpit). I also added a USB charging port which typically gets used for my wife's phone. The iPad's capacity is equivalent to the 10's range. I don't know where the sweet spot is but the iPad with Foreflight Pro or it's equivalent is a required part of my IFR flying. I do my 'tactical' flying with my panel mounted EFISs but all planning, what-ifs, thinking and re-orienting is done with the iPad. Geo-referenced taxi diagrams is almost worth the price if you fly into a lot of new-to-you larger airports. It's a fair price for a whole lot of benefit. It's a game changer, a drooler, a "I'll never go back" kind of tool. Looking at the bigger picture, portables enable us to keep our cockpits current at a much more reasonable cost than a panel upgrade. My panel was set in stone in late 2008. A lot has happened since then. While software upgrades to my EFIS and other components have helped keep them somewhat current, we rely on the portable to get the latest functions implemented in the best possible ways, e.g. touch screen functionality, faster processors, higher resolution screens. None of these are 'must haves' but they are very very nice to haves and they are available for a fraction of the cost of panel upgrades. On 5/9/2015 10:46 AM, kearney wrote: ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2015
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Tech in the front office
I agree 100%. Having it on the EFIS is the only way to go. That said, having it ALSO on an ipad isn't a bad idea, if you have the capability. It can't hurt...you can always turn it off. In my case, the ipad apps display more of the data types than the EFIS does, and, if you use it for charts, it does actively put the TFR's on the ipad then too, so at least WHEN you look at the ipad, you have the data you need. Tim On 5/11/2015 10:37 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > I fully agree with Bills statement on having what you need on the EFIS > display. > > Attached is a screen shoot taken on an IFR trip from Macon Georgia back > to Fredericksburg Virginia with a lot of navigating around a stalled > weather line. While it is possible to do all this on an iPad, I would > not want to do this with the iPad as the primary information integration > tool. > > Note I normally have the engine data on the other display. I added it > to the primary display only to get everything on one screen shoot. > Typical set up is to have moving map and PDF on the pilot side EFIS, > engine display with IFR/VFR chart or approach plate on the co-pilot EFIS. > > Carl > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Tech in the front office
Date: May 11, 2015
I agree with Tim, great to also have all the info on the ipad. I use the ipad to look forward when in cruse while keeping my EFIS in the normal flight range. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Monday, May 11, 2015 10:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tech in the front office I agree 100%. Having it on the EFIS is the only way to go. That said, having it ALSO on an ipad isn't a bad idea, if you have the capability. It can't hurt...you can always turn it off. In my case, the ipad apps display more of the data types than the EFIS does, and, if you use it for charts, it does actively put the TFR's on the ipad then too, so at least WHEN you look at the ipad, you have the data you need. Tim On 5/11/2015 10:37 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > I fully agree with Bills statement on having what you need on the > EFIS display. > > Attached is a screen shoot taken on an IFR trip from Macon Georgia > back to Fredericksburg Virginia with a lot of navigating around a > stalled weather line. While it is possible to do all this on an iPad, > I would not want to do this with the iPad as the primary information > integration tool. > > Note I normally have the engine data on the other display. I added > it to the primary display only to get everything on one screen shoot. > Typical set up is to have moving map and PDF on the pilot side EFIS, > engine display with IFR/VFR chart or approach plate on the co-pilot EFIS. > > Carl > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Tech in the front office
Date: May 11, 2015
Also, being able to get all the latest airport information via the ADS-B is great. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Monday, May 11, 2015 10:39 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tech in the front office I agree with Tim, great to also have all the info on the ipad. I use the ipad to look forward when in cruse while keeping my EFIS in the normal flight range. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Monday, May 11, 2015 10:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tech in the front office I agree 100%. Having it on the EFIS is the only way to go. That said, having it ALSO on an ipad isn't a bad idea, if you have the capability. It can't hurt...you can always turn it off. In my case, the ipad apps display more of the data types than the EFIS does, and, if you use it for charts, it does actively put the TFR's on the ipad then too, so at least WHEN you look at the ipad, you have the data you need. Tim On 5/11/2015 10:37 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > I fully agree with Bills statement on having what you need on the > EFIS display. > > Attached is a screen shoot taken on an IFR trip from Macon Georgia > back to Fredericksburg Virginia with a lot of navigating around a > stalled weather line. While it is possible to do all this on an iPad, > I would not want to do this with the iPad as the primary information > integration tool. > > Note I normally have the engine data on the other display. I added > it to the primary display only to get everything on one screen shoot. > Typical set up is to have moving map and PDF on the pilot side EFIS, > engine display with IFR/VFR chart or approach plate on the co-pilot EFIS. > > Carl > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tech in the front office
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 11, 2015
I also agree with having the info up on the panel, especially for traffic. For traffic you need to look every few minutes (or hear it - GRT now has audio alerts), and that's too much head-down time if you're vfr and have an iPad on your lap. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442027#442027 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2015
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: CSC / Lockheed get DUATS contract
I know, it's not RV-10 related, but we did talk about the topic a little a few years ago. So Lockheed and Computer Sciences Corporation (CSC) won the contract to provide DUATS. If you remember, CSC is somehow tied to the makers of FlightPrep, who are the ones who went around suing everyone who was making online flight planners. DTC was the "good" one, but they are now out after 25 years of doing it. Lockheed has it's own system in place. Users have a 60-day transition time to switch to the new providers. http://www.flyingmag.com/technique/flight-planning/lockheed-and-csc-offer-duats?cmpid=enews051415&spPodID=030&spMailingID=22653172&spUserID=NDc4NjE3MTE3OQS2&spJobID=561343644&spReportId=NTYxMzQzNjQ0S0 I know which one *I* will use....definitely not one provided by the lawsuit happy corp. It should also be noted that I believe a while back, foreflight started working to directly interact with Lockheed Martin for flight plan filing. If I remember right, you just have to clear out your DUATS info and then it will use Lockheed. At the time, they said it was better and faster anyway. So I did that and haven't looked back. I just thought I'd provide that food for thought as you all go about tweaking your iPads and devices with the new account settings. I'll have to even doublecheck what WingX and FlyQ use, but hopefully everyone will have whatever app updates are required so that we can file through L.M. and can skip anything to do with CSC. Yes, when a company acts like they did, I hold a grudge. Forever. :) Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2015
Subject: Odyssey optimal charge voltage
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Just wondering if anyone has researched what optimal alternator setting should be using the Odyssey 925L battery? Whether it should be different than the old wet cell set point between 13.8 and 14.2. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Trutrak ADI W/GPS for sale
Date: May 14, 2015
I just installed my new Gimini and I am selling my ADI. It is in good shape. Trutrak worked on it in May 2103. Price is $450 including Two Day FedEx shipping. It will go on Ebay for $495 next week. Ebay wants 10,-12% out of the deal. Price for new is $1400 from Aircraft Spruce. Thanks. Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage
Date: May 14, 2015
Based on how my Odyssey branded charger works, I'd guess that the answer is i t depends. If I rub my batteries down to 10-11.5 volts, I will see the charger hit them with nearly 17 over a short period of time. In a matter of minutes I can b ring a dead battery to 80% charged. Then I see it taper off to 13.8 at the tail end of the charge after the batt ery has already taken the bulk of the charge. Then I see the battery settle in around 13.6-13.7. So based on my observations of their charger, is say 13.8 is a very safe opt ion. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On May 14, 2015, at 3:41 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Just wondering if anyone has researched what optimal alternator setting sh ould be using the Odyssey 925L battery? Whether it should be different than t he old wet cell set point between 13.8 and 14.2. > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: May 14, 2015
I have an Odyssey brand charger for my 925. According to the documentation, it initially charges at 14.3-14.7 volts (give or take) until the battery is charged. Then it goes to the trickle charge mode at 13.6-13.8 volts (give or take). It can be left in the trickle charge mode indefinitely, according to the manual. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 New Smyrna Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442122#442122 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2015
Subject: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
It is that charge phase that had me thinking that the alternator regulator might need to be set above 14.2. On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 7:27 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote: > > I have an Odyssey brand charger for my 925. According to the > documentation, it initially charges at 14.3-14.7 volts (give or take) until > the battery is charged. Then it goes to the trickle charge mode at > 13.6-13.8 volts (give or take). It can be left in the trickle charge mode > indefinitely, according to the manual. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > New Smyrna Beach, FL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442122#442122 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage
Date: May 15, 2015
I can tell you a stock Plane Power alternator works just fine with Odyssey batteries. At full charge the buss voltage is 14.2 vdc. I=99ve used this set up for over a decade (two Odyssey PC-625 battery system) without any issues. As these batteries maintain 90% of their charge over six months I find no need to ever put a charger on the batteries unless I=99m doing extended panel powered up stuff. Even then I put a charger on with a volt meter and monitor to remove the charger once terminal voltage gets to 14.2 or so. Leaving a standard battery charger on a Odyssey battery is a good way to trash it as battery terminal voltage will rapidly rise above 15vdc once you get pass 14.2vdc. At that point you are generating heat and hydrogen. If you really must put a charger on it then get the Odyssey charger =93 then consider not using it unless you have good reason. I change out one battery every two years as a routine maintenance item (so neither battery is more than four years old). The pulled batteries provide another four years or so of service in various tractors here at the airpark. The only battery issue I had was when I left one of the master switches on. While you might be able to beat a flat battery back to life assume the damage will significantly degrade battery amp/hr capacity and replace it. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 11:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage It is that charge phase that had me thinking that the alternator regulator might need to be set above 14.2. On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 7:27 PM, dmaib(at)me.com wrote: I have an Odyssey brand charger for my 925. According to the documentation, it initially charges at 14.3-14.7 volts (give or take) until the battery is charged. Then it goes to the trickle charge mode at 13.6-13.8 volts (give or take). It can be left in the trickle charge mode indefinitely, according to the manual. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 New Smyrna Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442122#442122 -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List FORUMS - _blank">http://forums.matronics.com b Site - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2015
From: David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage
I concur with Carl here about placing the Odyssey batteries on a charger. I have a PC625 I placed in my wave runner about 15 years ago and its still g oing strong. I don't even bother charging it up at the beginning of the sea son. Its always ready to go. I also have them in lawn equipment. Same thing with no issues. My buddy uses PC625's in his Cozy MKIV. He used to keep th e Odyssey charger plugged in when the plane was parked. Batteries were toas ted in 2 years. I have dual 680's in my -10 and only place a charger on it when doing avionics work in the hanger. As soon as the green "charged" ligh t comes on, it gets disconnected. David Clifford N646RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> Sent: Friday, May 15, 2015 9:17:11 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage I can tell you a stock Plane Power alternator works just fine with Odyssey batteries. At full charge the buss voltage is 14.2 vdc. I=99ve used this set up for over a decade (two Odyssey PC-625 battery system) without any issues. As these batteries maintain 90% of their charg e over six months I find no need to ever put a charger on the batteries unl ess I=99m doing extended panel powered up stuff. Even then I put a ch arger on with a volt meter and monitor to remove the charger once terminal voltage gets to 14.2 or so. Leaving a standard battery charger on a Odyssey battery is a good way to trash it as battery terminal voltage will rapidly rise above 15vdc once you get pass 14.2vdc. At that point you are generati ng heat and hydrogen. If you really must put a charger on it then get the O dyssey charger =93 then consider not using it unless you have good re ason. I change out one battery every two years as a routine maintenance item (so neither battery is more than four years old). The pulled batteries provide another four years or so of service in various tractors here at the airpark . The only battery issue I had was when I left one of the master switches o n. While you might be able to beat a flat battery back to life assume the d amage will significantly degrade battery amp/hr capacity and replace it. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 11:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage It is that charge phase that had me thinking that the alternator regulator might need to be set above 14.2. On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 7:27 PM, dmaib(at)me.com < dmaib(at)me.com > wrote: I have an Odyssey brand charger for my 925. According to the documentation, it initially charges at 14.3-14.7 volts (give or take) until the battery i s charged. Then it goes to the trickle charge mode at 13.6-13.8 volts (give or take). It can be left in the trickle charge mode indefinitely, accordin g to the manual. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 New Smyrna Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442122#442122 =========== -List" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =========== FORUMS - _blank"> http://forums.matronics.com =========== b Site - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution =========== http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution === ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Odyssey optimal charge voltage
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: May 15, 2015
When I spoke with technical support at odyssey, they recommended charging both the 680 and 925 batteries at a nominal voltage of 14.4-14.5 volts. Unfortunately, if you have the plane power alternator, with th internal VR the only way to increase the charging voltage is to add resistance in the field line going to the alternator. The PP alternator uses the field line to sense the charge voltage. What I did was to use a #20 gauge wire to feed the field voltage. More than sufficient to carry the 5 amp load, but small enough diameter to create a slight voltage drop. I charge at 14.5 volts. Almost 3 years and 380 hours, and still going strong. Will 14.2 volts work? Probably -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442146#442146 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2015
Subject: Cabin Cover Fit
From: Matthew Healy <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Hey all - I am new to forum and I have been hesitant to post as I have been able to find most of answers by looking at past posts or talking to my EAA tech counselor, but I haven't found a good answer yet to my latest concern. The build has gone great, but the cabin top has given my some problems. I spent a lot of time getting it to fit and now that finally got it to slide into place I have a gap problem - see pics. I assume I can add resin with some filler to fill in gap and re-sand to fit, but my concern is that I have a tight fit already and I think is has somewhat do with head of universal rivets in door opening of fuselage, but then again I see other builders with a better fit. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Matt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
Date: May 16, 2015
We usually lay in a fairly healthy head of medium thickness flox before sett ing in the cabin top so it fills any voids like that. After we tighten all t he screws we make sure to remove any excess before it cures. A tight and cle an trim is the best way to achieve a good fit, but the flox helps in areas t hat don't fit as well. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On May 16, 2015, at 9:06 PM, Matthew Healy wrote: > > Hey all - I am new to forum and I have been hesitant to post as I have bee n able to find most of answers by looking at past posts or talking to my EAA tech counselor, but I haven't found a good answer yet to my latest concern. > > The build has gone great, but the cabin top has given my some problems. I s pent a lot of time getting it to fit and now that finally got it to slide in to place I have a gap problem - see pics. I assume I can add resin with some filler to fill in gap and re-sand to fit, but my concern is that I have a t ight fit already and I think is has somewhat do with head of universal rivet s in door opening of fuselage, but then again I see other builders with a be tter fit. Any suggestions on how to proceed? > > Matt > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 16, 2015
I do not recall the fiberglass resting on any AN470 heads. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442179#442179 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel injection servo attachment - concerned ?
From: "Gordon Anderson" <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch>
Date: May 17, 2015
I have the Van's Lycoming IO-540 and am ready to attach the fuel servo to the engine, but cannot find any instructions or hardware. Only the nuts and plain washers holding the plastic "preservation" cover plate on the sump together with a blind gasket were supplied with the engine & servo. Lycoming Service Instruction 1484C gives the torques to "refer to the Parts Catalogue for the correct washers, lock washers, nuts, gaskets and spacers" Can anyone provide a copy of the relevant page in the Lycoming parts catalogue? Assuming a gasket is required, is it normal to use one both above and below the control cable bracket? Gordon Anderson Switzerland Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442185#442185 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection servo attachment - concerned ?
Date: May 17, 2015
You want a gasket on both sides of the bracket and you want lock washers under the nuts holding the servo on. The hardware, IIRC, should have been included with the FWF kit. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On May 17, 2015, at 5:12 AM, Gordon Anderson wrote: > > > I have the Van's Lycoming IO-540 and am ready to attach the fuel servo to the engine, but cannot find any instructions or hardware. Only the nuts and plain washers holding the plastic "preservation" cover plate on the sump together with a blind gasket were supplied with the engine & servo. > > Lycoming Service Instruction 1484C gives the torques to "refer to the Parts Catalogue for the correct washers, lock washers, nuts, gaskets and spacers" > > Can anyone provide a copy of the relevant page in the Lycoming parts catalogue? > > Assuming a gasket is required, is it normal to use one both above and below the control cable bracket? > > Gordon Anderson > Switzerland > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442185#442185 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection servo attachment - concerned ?
Date: May 17, 2015
You might want to look again. Hardware and gaskets should be in a bag that came with the engine. If it is not there give Van's a call. Yes - a gasket goes on each side of the control cable bracket. If memory serves, the bracket came with a gasket. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon Anderson Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 5:13 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel injection servo attachment - concerned ? I have the Van's Lycoming IO-540 and am ready to attach the fuel servo to the engine, but cannot find any instructions or hardware. Only the nuts and plain washers holding the plastic "preservation" cover plate on the sump together with a blind gasket were supplied with the engine & servo. Lycoming Service Instruction 1484C gives the torques to "refer to the Parts Catalogue for the correct washers, lock washers, nuts, gaskets and spacers" Can anyone provide a copy of the relevant page in the Lycoming parts catalogue? Assuming a gasket is required, is it normal to use one both above and below the control cable bracket? Gordon Anderson Switzerland Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442185#442185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com>
Date: May 18, 2015
Hey, by chance do you have the QB fuselage? If so, go back through the plans and you will find that those AN470 rivets that are in the way are REALLY supposed to be AN426 flush rivets. I had this same issue and it literally took more than an hour to find it in the plans. There should be NO AN470 rivet heads protruding in the area where the cabin top sit in the fuselage sides. I think it was about 8 rivets, four on each side. They were pretty easy to drill out, dimple, and replace with AN426 rivets... It is one of the issues I found with the QB kits... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442230#442230 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 18, 2015
I do have a QB fuse and indeed the 426 rivets are placed in error. That is why Bob doesn't remember having them there. So now that I have already trimmed to much and cannot get it to clamp flush in sides of door opening (sits flush on bottom) how should I proceed. Obviously replace rivets, but then what do you think. Epoxy resin with flox and re-sand to fit? If so, will it adhere and be strong enough? This is one of many problems I have had with QB fuse, just didn't catch this one early enough- wish I would have just build it myself Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442247#442247 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
Date: May 18, 2015
Yes, like Jesse mentioned, apply flox and bolt it down. It's a pain to sand, so don't got crazy with the flox. I got mine to fit pretty good. I used flox to fill in the door bottom on the interior then added micro as a top coat and to fill in all the imperfections around the edges. Sent from my iPhone On May 18, 2015, at 1:41 PM, mhealydds wrote: I do have a QB fuse and indeed the 426 rivets are placed in error. That is why Bob doesn't remember having them there. So now that I have already trimmed to much and cannot get it to clamp flush in sides of door opening (sits flush on bottom) how should I proceed. Obviously replace rivets, but then what do you think. Epoxy resin with flox and re-sand to fit? If so, will it adhere and be strong enough? This is one of many problems I have had with QB fuse, just didn't catch this one early enough- wish I would have just build it myself Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442247#442247 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
Date: May 18, 2015
This is a single step fix after you replace the rivets. Apply a liberal amount of flox, install the cabin top, clean up the excess flox once the top is seated (and before it sets) and insert the bolts. Remember to not tighten the bolts all the way until after the flox sets so you don't deform the cabin top. As you will have a lot of flox to fill the gaps, check that the sides and bottom are straight as you go. Once this is done the top is there forever so don't scrimp on the flox. It is much easier to clean up the flox as you go then to try to fill voids after the top is on. The flox should not be too runny or dry. Something on the wet side of cake frosting. When done there a several options to fill in the door bottom. On Van's demo plane they used a piece of wood. The attached photos show how I added some rigid foam and then 8 bids or so of glass over the top and down the inside to aluminum. Some micro, sanding and ready for paint. The last two photos show how I back fitted the aftermarket door cam lock. I suspect this turned out easier than trying to glass around it. What would we do without Dremel tools? Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 2:01 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cabin Cover Fit Yes, like Jesse mentioned, apply flox and bolt it down. It's a pain to sand, so don't got crazy with the flox. I got mine to fit pretty good. I used flox to fill in the door bottom on the interior then added micro as a top coat and to fill in all the imperfections around the edges. Sent from my iPhone On May 18, 2015, at 1:41 PM, mhealydds wrote: I do have a QB fuse and indeed the 426 rivets are placed in error. That is why Bob doesn't remember having them there. So now that I have already trimmed to much and cannot get it to clamp flush in sides of door opening (sits flush on bottom) how should I proceed. Obviously replace rivets, but then what do you think. Epoxy resin with flox and re-sand to fit? If so, will it adhere and be strong enough? This is one of many problems I have had with QB fuse, just didn't catch this one early enough- wish I would have just build it myself Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442247#442247 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2015
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I'd consider rubbing a mold release all over the aluminum and then bolting it into place with a handful of shims to fill the gap. This means the shims would be the same width as an AN470 head rivet it tall. That would locate the cabin time in the correct position. With it in that position, I'd then squeeze some epoxy/flox into the gap where the shims are between the aluminum and the cabin top. You can use a large syringe to pack the flox way back into the gap first and then fill until you get the the outer edge. Wipe the excess away. Once it has cured, you can tap the shims out and fill the hole where the shims were the same way. Once that has cured, you can take the cabin top off and inspect it to make sure there are no voids and if there are then you can just fill them to match while it's off. You will end up with the most perfectly fit cabin top of the group that way. You're basically using your airframe as a mold and building the cabin top to fit it perfectly. Phil On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 1:01 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > Yes, like Jesse mentioned, apply flox and bolt it down. It's a pain to > sand, so don't got crazy with the flox. > > I got mine to fit pretty good. I used flox to fill in the door bottom on > the interior then added micro as a top coat and to fill in all the > imperfections around the edges. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On May 18, 2015, at 1:41 PM, mhealydds wrote: > > > I do have a QB fuse and indeed the 426 rivets are placed in error. That is > why Bob doesn't remember having them there. So now that I have already > trimmed to much and cannot get it to clamp flush in sides of door opening > (sits flush on bottom) how should I proceed. Obviously replace rivets, but > then what do you think. Epoxy resin with flox and re-sand to fit? If so, > will it adhere and be strong enough? > > This is one of many problems I have had with QB fuse, just didn't catch > this one early enough- wish I would have just build it myself > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442247#442247 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com>
Date: May 18, 2015
Boy, I dunno if I would try to remove the top after the epoxy has set, even WITH mold release. With the imperfect surfaces of the cabin top, I would think that you would damage it trying to remove it with the perfect fit you created. Unfortunately, you would then be stuck with a cabin top that is not bonded to the surrounding epoxy due to the mold release, and no good way to remove it without breaking it. Make sure the cabin top is in the right position and fill'r'up with flox...then tighten the bolts when flox is cured... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442263#442263 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 18, 2015
So my concern with this approach is that will I have a problem clamping cabin cover to fuselage to match drill bolt holes with that large of a gap. You are saying just not worry about gap until final seating and they secure with flox an not try to build up prior to final seating? Matt Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442266#442266 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 18, 2015
Sorry just saw post about using mold release before final seating before posting last reply. Any thoughts what would be better? Matt Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442267#442267 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 18, 2015
I am certainly no fiberglass expert, but I'd be tempted to lay down a couple of layers of fiberglass/epoxy on the bottom of the top, where, you've sanded too far, to minimize how much flox you need to fill the gap. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442268#442268 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 18, 2015
It also bears repeating Vans' instructions: QB builders must go thru the non-QB instructions carefully (takes several hours!) to see where the "pro" guys screwed up. Guaranteed you'll find a few things that need to be addressed. My QB fuel tanks were installed with bolts one size too long, with a stack of washers under each to make them fit! -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442269#442269 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 18, 2015
By the way, the lower or bottom portion seats fine, just sides, attached better pictures Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442270#442270 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1027_173.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1028_181.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
From: "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 18, 2015
I thought I went through the QB kit pretty well, found lots of errors actually (to the point that I am not sure I would even recommend a QB fuse kit), guess checking the head style of every rivet was not something I got into. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442271#442271 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
Date: May 18, 2015
Not to go against the trend.....but why take our the 470's. If you have it fitting....already cut the top....then just leave the "wrong" rivets in and flox around them. Will help keep everything lined up and the will not affect the structure. Drilling out the rivets and putting in new rivets only increases the risk of messing something up. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mhealydds Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 3:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cabin Cover Fit By the way, the lower or bottom portion seats fine, just sides, attached better pictures Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442270#442270 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1027_173.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1028_181.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 18, 2015
Subject: Re: Cabin Cover Fit
I agree with Rene. If it fits, don't bother drilling out those rivets. I would lay a thick layer of flox or milled fiber filler between the top and the fuse to fill the gap before drilling for the attach screws. The problem with a release in an area like that is some resin will inevitably seep into some cavity or female section that makes it very difficulty to remove. It can be done with a lot of prep and forethought but it wouldn't be worth it. Filling will work just fine. Keep it a little "below grade" to reduce having to remove cured material--you can always bodywork it for cosmetics afterward. Once the top is on, it's an integral part of the fuselage. Taking it off in the future might be possible but you'd need a really good reason. --Dave On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 2:41 PM, Rene wrote: > > Not to go against the trend.....but why take our the 470's. If you have it > fitting....already cut the top....then just leave the "wrong" rivets in and > flox around them. Will help keep everything lined up and the will not > affect the structure. Drilling out the rivets and putting in new rivets > only increases the risk of messing something up. > > Rene' > 801-721-6080 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mhealydds > Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 3:13 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cabin Cover Fit > > > By the way, the lower or bottom portion seats fine, just sides, attached > better pictures > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442270#442270 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1027_173.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1028_181.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Gust Lock - Redux
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: May 20, 2015
Hi A few weeks ago I inquired about gust locks. Most of the "commercial" options didn't appeal. The one that did appeal never responded to my email query so I decided to see what I could do on my own. Most "commercial" options consisted of pushing the rudder pedals forward. Given that I had an open bolt hole at the bottom of the firewall, I decided to install an eyeball bolt and use that, in conjunction with a carabiner / strap / shock cord to pull the pedals forward. I felt this was a better option. My Grimstad rudder peals have a hollow tube that allowed me to insert a wooden down between them. This was pulled forward by a strap threaded through the carabiner. Two shock cords put tension on the straps so that the pedals stay forward and the rudder centered. I attached the other end of the shock cords to the outboard gear mount tube that is just in front of the pilot's seat. The advantage of the shock cords is that it will allow the rudder to move under to pressure - but not too much. The rudder never comes in contact with the stops nor are the cables ever out if tension so that that rudder flops around. All told, this could be duplicated for under $10. I expect something similar could be done with stock pedals. I plan to tinker a bit more with this but don't expect the basic design to change. Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442391#442391 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4002_115.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4001_138.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_3996_383.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_3995_147.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: rudder lock
Date: May 21, 2015
This is my rudder gust lock. I machined a part that bolts to the aft bulkhead/vertical stab spar assembly. The eye-bolts protrude thru the skin and there will be pins that lock the rudder in neutral position when installed. Chris Hukill waiting for the FAA to bless me for flight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx
Date: May 23, 2015
See below. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Chris Golden <chris(at)blueones.com> > Date: May 23, 2015 at 3:36:21 PM EDT > To: Saint Jesse > Subject: TAS Calculator.xlsx > > Not sure if this is the one he is looking for, but it's what we used and s eemed about right. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Flysrv10 <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx
Date: May 23, 2015
Thanks Jesse. I was looking for indicated airspeed calculation. I have two s ources of AS and they are 10+ kt different. Sent from my iPhone > On May 23, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > See below. > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > 352-427-0285 > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > > Sent from my iPad > > Begin forwarded message: > >> From: Chris Golden <chris(at)blueones.com> >> Date: May 23, 2015 at 3:36:21 PM EDT >> To: Saint Jesse >> Subject: TAS Calculator.xlsx >> Not sure if this is the one he is looking for, but it's what we used and s eemed about right. > >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx
Date: May 23, 2015
I don't think you can very accurately calculate indicated airspeed. The bes t way to check that is on the bench. That's the reference for all the other s. If indicated is off, it's time to use the manometer and figure out which one is accurate. Tim > On May 23, 2015, at 2:55 PM, Flysrv10 wrote: > > Thanks Jesse. I was looking for indicated airspeed calculation. I have two sources of AS and they are 10+ kt different. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 23, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: >> >> See below. >> >> Jesse Saint >> Saint Aviation, Inc. >> 352-427-0285 >> jesse(at)saintaviation.com >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> Begin forwarded message: >> >>> From: Chris Golden <chris(at)blueones.com> >>> Date: May 23, 2015 at 3:36:21 PM EDT >>> To: Saint Jesse >>> Subject: TAS Calculator.xlsx >>> Not sure if this is the one he is looking for, but it's what we used and seemed about right. >> > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben" <n801bh(at)netzero.net>
Date: May 23, 2015
Subject: Re: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx
Agreed..... Easy to do,,, Well tested and accepted data to derive an acc urate reading... http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/articles/KP89JUL.pdf Ben H aas N801BH www.haaspowerair.com ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx Date: Sat, 23 May 2015 17:39:09 -0500 I don't think you can very accurately calculate indicated airspeed. The best way to check that is on the bench. That's the reference for all t he others.If indicated is off, it's time to use the manometer and figure out which one is accurate.Tim On May 23, 2015, at 2:55 PM, Flysrv10 wrote: Thanks Jesse. I was looking for indicated airspeed calculation. I have t wo sources of AS and they are 10+ kt different. Sent from my iPhone On May 23, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Jesse Saint wrote : See below. Jesse SaintSaint Aviation, Inc.352-427-0285jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: From: Chris Golden <chris(at)blueones.com> Date: May 23, 2015 at 3:36:21 PM EDT Subject: TAS Calculator.xlsx Not sure if this is the one he is looking for, but it's what we used an d seemed about right. D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DList"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator? RV10-ListD=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D//forums.matronics.comD=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dot;">http://www.matronics .com/contributionD=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ======================== ======================== ======================== ======================== ======================== ================= ____________________________________________________________ NetZero now offers 4G mobile broadband. Sign up now. http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT1 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx
Date: May 23, 2015
Here is a PDF file with a scale that translates inches of water to knots. This simple rig is very accurate. It also serves to find pitot/static leaks before you have the guy on the clock doing your biannual check. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 7:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx Agreed..... Easy to do,,, Well tested and accepted data to derive an accurate reading... http://www.rst-engr.com/rst/articles/KP89JUL.pdf Ben Haas N801BH www.haaspowerair.com ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx Date: Sat, 23 May 2015 17:39:09 -0500 I don't think you can very accurately calculate indicated airspeed. The best way to check that is on the bench. That's the reference for all the others. If indicated is off, it's time to use the manometer and figure out which one is accurate. Tim On May 23, 2015, at 2:55 PM, Flysrv10 wrote: Thanks Jesse. I was looking for indicated airspeed calculation. I have two sources of AS and they are 10+ kt different. Sent from my iPhone On May 23, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: See below. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: From: Chris Golden <chris(at)blueones.com> Date: May 23, 2015 at 3:36:21 PM EDT Subject: TAS Calculator.xlsx Not sure if this is the one he is looking for, but it's what we used and seemed about right. D======================== =================== List""> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List D======================== =================== //forums.matronics.com D======================== =================== ot;"> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution D======================== =================== =================================== <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =================================== ronics.com =================================== <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> www.matronics.com/contribution =================================== ____________________________________________________________ NetZero now offers 4G mobile broadband. Sign up now. <http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT1> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 23, 2015
There are several programs available where you fly 3 different courses, note GPS ground speeds, and the program calculates True airspeed, with the assumption that the wind does not change while you make the measurements. Truth be told, you can do just as well by finding the wind direction (max ground speed), then do a 180 (minimum ground speed), and average the 2 numbers to get TAS. Note the pressure altitude and the OAT, pull out your E6B and change TAS into IAS. Water manometer is a good place to start, but it won't show static errors. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442512#442512 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben" <n801bh(at)netzero.net>
Date: May 24, 2015
Subject: Re: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx
I do a pitot /static test on every third transponder check.. ie, every s ix years.... The guy has the equipment already set up and it only adds 5 0 bucks to the bill... And his test rig is certified..... Well worth it to me... YMMV... Ben Haas N801BH www.haaspowerair.com ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fwd: TAS Calculator.xlsx Date: Sat, 23 May 2015 20:25:26 -0700 There are several programs available where you fly 3 different courses, note GPS ground speeds, and the program calculates True airspeed, with t he assumption that the wind does not change while you make the measureme nts. Truth be told, you can do just as well by finding the wind directio n (max ground speed), then do a 180 (minimum ground speed), and average the 2 numbers to get TAS. Note the pressure altitude and the OAT, pull o ut your E6B and change TAS into IAS. Water manometer is a good place to start, but it won't show static error s. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442512#442512 ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ____________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/55614efe451544efe62e5st03duc ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New Aerosport Symmetrical Panel
From: "EdKranz" <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2015
Hey guys, Just wanted to show off the redesigned AeroSport Symmetrical panel. This one fits 3 10" displays (like the big G3X touch, or the AFS 5600). It also includes room for a 750 below the center screen, or like I chose to do, a 650, an audio panel, and the GMC305 AP controller. Because so much of the panel real estate is taken up with avionics, Aerosport designed a new center console mounted throttle quadrant. It sits right where your hand will naturally lay when you have your elbow on the center console. A few other interesting things: -With the G3X Touch screens, NO rib modification was necessary. A notch of about 2" was needed in the bottom of the sub-panel for the 650 in the location shown in the pictures. -There is a lip at the bottom of the center panel that is PERFECT as a "finger shelf" to brace your hands to operate the 305 AP panel in turbulence. Now I obviously haven't tested this out in the air, but from sitting in the garage, bouncing around making airplane noises, it worked great :) -------- Ed Kranz RV10 Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442593#442593 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/aerosport_render_146.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/hdr_panel_cropped_172.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2015
Subject: Re: New Aerosport Symmetrical Panel
From: "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com>
Are you planning on a separate self-contained backup system? I ask because it doesn't look like there's much room left over for one. While you can protect against hardware failures with the multiple screens and ADAHRS/GPS receivers across the G3X complex, there's always the issue of a common software bug. I really like the idea of the console mounted quadrant. On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:06 AM, EdKranz wrote: > > Hey guys, > > Just wanted to show off the redesigned AeroSport Symmetrical panel. This > one fits 3 10" displays (like the big G3X touch, or the AFS 5600). It also > includes room for a 750 below the center screen, or like I chose to do, a > 650, an audio panel, and the GMC305 AP controller. > > Because so much of the panel real estate is taken up with avionics, > Aerosport designed a new center console mounted throttle quadrant. It sits > right where your hand will naturally lay when you have your elbow on the > center console. > > A few other interesting things: > > -With the G3X Touch screens, NO rib modification was necessary. A notch of > about 2" was needed in the bottom of the sub-panel for the 650 in the > location shown in the pictures. > > -There is a lip at the bottom of the center panel that is PERFECT as a > "finger shelf" to brace your hands to operate the 305 AP panel in > turbulence. Now I obviously haven't tested this out in the air, but from > sitting in the garage, bouncing around making airplane noises, it worked > great :) > > -------- > Ed Kranz > RV10 > Finishing > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442593#442593 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/aerosport_render_146.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/hdr_panel_cropped_172.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2015
Subject: Re: New Aerosport Symmetrical Panel
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
I keep going back and forth. I do want some sort of non-garmin backup PFD. RC Allen makes a nice 2.5" LCD attitude gauge that would fit to the left of my PFD1, but I'd want altitude and airspeed info as well. So far, I don't believe that anyone makes one that small, for a price I'm willing to pay. The Midcontinent SAM might fit there, but it's quite spendy. During the fly-off, I'm obviously day VFR, so I'm going to fly it as is... but I'll probably end up with a Dynon D1 either up on the glareshield or below the AP controller until someone comes out with a nice compact backup PFD. I've also considered some of the iPad based "PFDs"... which would probably be fine in the unlikely scenario that I'm in IMC and suffer a full 3 screen system failure... Enough to get me to VMC to get on the ground. But I'd prefer a real backup PFD. On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: > Are you planning on a separate self-contained backup system? I ask > because it doesn't look like there's much room left over for one. While you > can protect against hardware failures with the multiple screens and > ADAHRS/GPS receivers across the G3X complex, there's always the issue of a > common software bug. I really like the idea of the console mounted > quadrant. > > On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:06 AM, EdKranz wrote: > >> >> Hey guys, >> >> Just wanted to show off the redesigned AeroSport Symmetrical panel. This >> one fits 3 10" displays (like the big G3X touch, or the AFS 5600). It also >> includes room for a 750 below the center screen, or like I chose to do, a >> 650, an audio panel, and the GMC305 AP controller. >> >> Because so much of the panel real estate is taken up with avionics, >> Aerosport designed a new center console mounted throttle quadrant. It sits >> right where your hand will naturally lay when you have your elbow on the >> center console. >> >> A few other interesting things: >> >> -With the G3X Touch screens, NO rib modification was necessary. A notch >> of about 2" was needed in the bottom of the sub-panel for the 650 in the >> location shown in the pictures. >> >> -There is a lip at the bottom of the center panel that is PERFECT as a >> "finger shelf" to brace your hands to operate the 305 AP panel in >> turbulence. Now I obviously haven't tested this out in the air, but from >> sitting in the garage, bouncing around making airplane noises, it worked >> great :) >> >> -------- >> Ed Kranz >> RV10 >> Finishing >> >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442593#442593 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/aerosport_render_146.jpg >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hdr_panel_cropped_172.jpg >> >> >> >> >> ========== >> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2015
Subject: Re: New Aerosport Symmetrical Panel
From: "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com>
I suppose there's room for 3 round gauges off to the left. Any idea if it's possible to move the center screen down so it's level with the others and put the GMC305 on top, or are the holes for the screens pre-cut? I'm rather used to the autopilot panel being top center... On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Ed Kranz wrote: > I keep going back and forth. I do want some sort of non-garmin backup PFD. > RC Allen makes a nice 2.5" LCD attitude gauge that would fit to the left of > my PFD1, but I'd want altitude and airspeed info as well. So far, I don't > believe that anyone makes one that small, for a price I'm willing to pay. > The Midcontinent SAM might fit there, but it's quite spendy. > > During the fly-off, I'm obviously day VFR, so I'm going to fly it as is... > but I'll probably end up with a Dynon D1 either up on the glareshield or > below the AP controller until someone comes out with a nice compact backup > PFD. > > I've also considered some of the iPad based "PFDs"... which would probably > be fine in the unlikely scenario that I'm in IMC and suffer a full 3 screen > system failure... Enough to get me to VMC to get on the ground. But I'd > prefer a real backup PFD. > > On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: > >> Are you planning on a separate self-contained backup system? I ask >> because it doesn't look like there's much room left over for one. While you >> can protect against hardware failures with the multiple screens and >> ADAHRS/GPS receivers across the G3X complex, there's always the issue of a >> common software bug. I really like the idea of the console mounted >> quadrant. >> >> On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:06 AM, EdKranz wrote: >> >>> >>> Hey guys, >>> >>> Just wanted to show off the redesigned AeroSport Symmetrical panel. This >>> one fits 3 10" displays (like the big G3X touch, or the AFS 5600). It also >>> includes room for a 750 below the center screen, or like I chose to do, a >>> 650, an audio panel, and the GMC305 AP controller. >>> >>> Because so much of the panel real estate is taken up with avionics, >>> Aerosport designed a new center console mounted throttle quadrant. It sits >>> right where your hand will naturally lay when you have your elbow on the >>> center console. >>> >>> A few other interesting things: >>> >>> -With the G3X Touch screens, NO rib modification was necessary. A notch >>> of about 2" was needed in the bottom of the sub-panel for the 650 in the >>> location shown in the pictures. >>> >>> -There is a lip at the bottom of the center panel that is PERFECT as a >>> "finger shelf" to brace your hands to operate the 305 AP panel in >>> turbulence. Now I obviously haven't tested this out in the air, but from >>> sitting in the garage, bouncing around making airplane noises, it worked >>> great :) >>> >>> -------- >>> Ed Kranz >>> RV10 >>> Finishing >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442593#442593 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Attachments: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/aerosport_render_146.jpg >>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hdr_panel_cropped_172.jpg >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ========== >>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> ========== >>> FORUMS - >>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com >>> ========== >>> b Site - >>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> ========== >>> >>> >>> >>> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * >> >> > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2015
Subject: Re: New Aerosport Symmetrical Panel
From: Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com>
Per a discussion I had with Geoff a couple days ago, yes you can move the center screen down and fit the GMC-305 AP controller above it. Bob On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 11:04 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: > I suppose there's room for 3 round gauges off to the left. Any idea if > it's possible to move the center screen down so it's level with the others > and put the GMC305 on top, or are the holes for the screens pre-cut? I'm > rather used to the autopilot panel being top center... > > On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Ed Kranz wrote: > >> I keep going back and forth. I do want some sort of non-garmin backup >> PFD. RC Allen makes a nice 2.5" LCD attitude gauge that would fit to the >> left of my PFD1, but I'd want altitude and airspeed info as well. So far, I >> don't believe that anyone makes one that small, for a price I'm willing to >> pay. The Midcontinent SAM might fit there, but it's quite spendy. >> >> During the fly-off, I'm obviously day VFR, so I'm going to fly it as >> is... but I'll probably end up with a Dynon D1 either up on the glareshield >> or below the AP controller until someone comes out with a nice compact >> backup PFD. >> >> I've also considered some of the iPad based "PFDs"... which would >> probably be fine in the unlikely scenario that I'm in IMC and suffer a full >> 3 screen system failure... Enough to get me to VMC to get on the ground. >> But I'd prefer a real backup PFD. >> >> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: >> >>> Are you planning on a separate self-contained backup system? I ask >>> because it doesn't look like there's much room left over for one. While you >>> can protect against hardware failures with the multiple screens and >>> ADAHRS/GPS receivers across the G3X complex, there's always the issue of a >>> common software bug. I really like the idea of the console mounted >>> quadrant. >>> >>> On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:06 AM, EdKranz wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Hey guys, >>>> >>>> Just wanted to show off the redesigned AeroSport Symmetrical panel. >>>> This one fits 3 10" displays (like the big G3X touch, or the AFS 5600). It >>>> also includes room for a 750 below the center screen, or like I chose to >>>> do, a 650, an audio panel, and the GMC305 AP controller. >>>> >>>> Because so much of the panel real estate is taken up with avionics, >>>> Aerosport designed a new center console mounted throttle quadrant. It sits >>>> right where your hand will naturally lay when you have your elbow on the >>>> center console. >>>> >>>> A few other interesting things: >>>> >>>> -With the G3X Touch screens, NO rib modification was necessary. A notch >>>> of about 2" was needed in the bottom of the sub-panel for the 650 in the >>>> location shown in the pictures. >>>> >>>> -There is a lip at the bottom of the center panel that is PERFECT as a >>>> "finger shelf" to brace your hands to operate the 305 AP panel in >>>> turbulence. Now I obviously haven't tested this out in the air, but from >>>> sitting in the garage, bouncing around making airplane noises, it worked >>>> great :) >>>> >>>> -------- >>>> Ed Kranz >>>> RV10 >>>> Finishing >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Read this topic online here: >>>> >>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442593#442593 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Attachments: >>>> >>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/aerosport_render_146.jpg >>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hdr_panel_cropped_172.jpg >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ========== >>>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>>> ========== >>>> FORUMS - >>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com >>>> ========== >>>> b Site - >>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>> ========== >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> * >>> >>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> >>> * >>> >>> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * >> >> > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2015
Subject: Re: New Aerosport Symmetrical Panel
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
You can have the panels cut however you'd like. Another possible plus of doing what you suggest is that I don't think you'd have to cut the subpanel to fit the 650. On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 11:04 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: > I suppose there's room for 3 round gauges off to the left. Any idea if > it's possible to move the center screen down so it's level with the others > and put the GMC305 on top, or are the holes for the screens pre-cut? I'm > rather used to the autopilot panel being top center... > > On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Ed Kranz wrote: > >> I keep going back and forth. I do want some sort of non-garmin backup >> PFD. RC Allen makes a nice 2.5" LCD attitude gauge that would fit to the >> left of my PFD1, but I'd want altitude and airspeed info as well. So far, I >> don't believe that anyone makes one that small, for a price I'm willing to >> pay. The Midcontinent SAM might fit there, but it's quite spendy. >> >> During the fly-off, I'm obviously day VFR, so I'm going to fly it as >> is... but I'll probably end up with a Dynon D1 either up on the glareshield >> or below the AP controller until someone comes out with a nice compact >> backup PFD. >> >> I've also considered some of the iPad based "PFDs"... which would >> probably be fine in the unlikely scenario that I'm in IMC and suffer a full >> 3 screen system failure... Enough to get me to VMC to get on the ground. >> But I'd prefer a real backup PFD. >> >> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: >> >>> Are you planning on a separate self-contained backup system? I ask >>> because it doesn't look like there's much room left over for one. While you >>> can protect against hardware failures with the multiple screens and >>> ADAHRS/GPS receivers across the G3X complex, there's always the issue of a >>> common software bug. I really like the idea of the console mounted >>> quadrant. >>> >>> On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:06 AM, EdKranz wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Hey guys, >>>> >>>> Just wanted to show off the redesigned AeroSport Symmetrical panel. >>>> This one fits 3 10" displays (like the big G3X touch, or the AFS 5600). It >>>> also includes room for a 750 below the center screen, or like I chose to >>>> do, a 650, an audio panel, and the GMC305 AP controller. >>>> >>>> Because so much of the panel real estate is taken up with avionics, >>>> Aerosport designed a new center console mounted throttle quadrant. It sits >>>> right where your hand will naturally lay when you have your elbow on the >>>> center console. >>>> >>>> A few other interesting things: >>>> >>>> -With the G3X Touch screens, NO rib modification was necessary. A notch >>>> of about 2" was needed in the bottom of the sub-panel for the 650 in the >>>> location shown in the pictures. >>>> >>>> -There is a lip at the bottom of the center panel that is PERFECT as a >>>> "finger shelf" to brace your hands to operate the 305 AP panel in >>>> turbulence. Now I obviously haven't tested this out in the air, but from >>>> sitting in the garage, bouncing around making airplane noises, it worked >>>> great :) >>>> >>>> -------- >>>> Ed Kranz >>>> RV10 >>>> Finishing >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Read this topic online here: >>>> >>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442593#442593 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Attachments: >>>> >>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/aerosport_render_146.jpg >>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hdr_panel_cropped_172.jpg >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ========== >>>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>>> ========== >>>> FORUMS - >>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com >>>> ========== >>>> b Site - >>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>> ========== >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> * >>> >>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> >>> * >>> >>> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * >> >> > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2015
Subject: Re: New Aerosport Symmetrical Panel
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Here's a quick and dirty photoshop of what that might look like. I gotta say, I really like that too. On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 11:28 AM, Bob Condrey wrote: > Per a discussion I had with Geoff a couple days ago, yes you can move the > center screen down and fit the GMC-305 AP controller above it. > > Bob > > On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 11:04 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: > >> I suppose there's room for 3 round gauges off to the left. Any idea if >> it's possible to move the center screen down so it's level with the others >> and put the GMC305 on top, or are the holes for the screens pre-cut? I'm >> rather used to the autopilot panel being top center... >> >> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Ed Kranz wrote: >> >>> I keep going back and forth. I do want some sort of non-garmin backup >>> PFD. RC Allen makes a nice 2.5" LCD attitude gauge that would fit to the >>> left of my PFD1, but I'd want altitude and airspeed info as well. So far, I >>> don't believe that anyone makes one that small, for a price I'm willing to >>> pay. The Midcontinent SAM might fit there, but it's quite spendy. >>> >>> During the fly-off, I'm obviously day VFR, so I'm going to fly it as >>> is... but I'll probably end up with a Dynon D1 either up on the glareshield >>> or below the AP controller until someone comes out with a nice compact >>> backup PFD. >>> >>> I've also considered some of the iPad based "PFDs"... which would >>> probably be fine in the unlikely scenario that I'm in IMC and suffer a full >>> 3 screen system failure... Enough to get me to VMC to get on the ground. >>> But I'd prefer a real backup PFD. >>> >>> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Berck E. Nash >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Are you planning on a separate self-contained backup system? I ask >>>> because it doesn't look like there's much room left over for one. While you >>>> can protect against hardware failures with the multiple screens and >>>> ADAHRS/GPS receivers across the G3X complex, there's always the issue of a >>>> common software bug. I really like the idea of the console mounted >>>> quadrant. >>>> >>>> On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:06 AM, EdKranz wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> Hey guys, >>>>> >>>>> Just wanted to show off the redesigned AeroSport Symmetrical panel. >>>>> This one fits 3 10" displays (like the big G3X touch, or the AFS 5600). It >>>>> also includes room for a 750 below the center screen, or like I chose to >>>>> do, a 650, an audio panel, and the GMC305 AP controller. >>>>> >>>>> Because so much of the panel real estate is taken up with avionics, >>>>> Aerosport designed a new center console mounted throttle quadrant. It sits >>>>> right where your hand will naturally lay when you have your elbow on the >>>>> center console. >>>>> >>>>> A few other interesting things: >>>>> >>>>> -With the G3X Touch screens, NO rib modification was necessary. A >>>>> notch of about 2" was needed in the bottom of the sub-panel for the 650 in >>>>> the location shown in the pictures. >>>>> >>>>> -There is a lip at the bottom of the center panel that is PERFECT as a >>>>> "finger shelf" to brace your hands to operate the 305 AP panel in >>>>> turbulence. Now I obviously haven't tested this out in the air, but from >>>>> sitting in the garage, bouncing around making airplane noises, it worked >>>>> great :) >>>>> >>>>> -------- >>>>> Ed Kranz >>>>> RV10 >>>>> Finishing >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>> >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442593#442593 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Attachments: >>>>> >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/aerosport_render_146.jpg >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hdr_panel_cropped_172.jpg >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> ========== >>>>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>>>> ========== >>>>> FORUMS - >>>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com >>>>> ========== >>>>> b Site - >>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>>> ========== >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> * >>>> >>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>> >>>> * >>>> >>>> >>> * >>> >>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> >>> * >>> >>> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * >> >> > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)gmail.com>
Subject: symmetrical panel and backup
Date: May 29, 2015
If you are seriously interested in backup for IFR in IMC, you need two different EFIS systems and an autopilot with internal solid state gyros and backup batteries. My solution is Chelton primary with FAA level A software; GRT Sport/software (mini is now available) for backup and a Trutrak AP that will also fly the aircraft albeit not extremely precisely. I have three 680s on board although the last was added on the firewall more for weight and balance purposes. In essence I have three systems all capable of keeping the shiny side up. The AP can accept LNAV/VNAV commands from the Chelton, LNAV commands from the GRT and fly the aircraft independently depending on a source selection switch for the AP. My two cents --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2015
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
There are several "mini-EFIS" available today that were not on the market 7-8 yrs ago. Even if you select the same brand as the main EFIS, the operating software is different. You have to decide whether you want same logic or being able to know the ins and outs of two different brand philosophies, and whether you want more Tees in your pitot static system to leak, or a GPS derived attitude, altitude and airspeed as backup. It appears the autopilot market has evolved to where the leading EFIS have integrated autopilots, and backup batteries for each screen. Having a separate autopilot generally adds several grand in cost. However, most autopilots, whether separate or integrated will fail if they don't have electrons to power them, as most use electric servos. One does have to decide whether to wear 2 belts and 1 or two suspenders to have enough backup. On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 5:51 AM, DLM wrote: > > If you are seriously interested in backup for IFR in IMC, you need two > different EFIS systems and an autopilot with internal solid state gyros and > backup batteries. My solution is Chelton primary with FAA level A software; > GRT Sport/software (mini is now available) for backup and a Trutrak AP that > will also fly the aircraft albeit not extremely precisely. I have three > 680s > on board although the last was added on the firewall more for weight and > balance purposes. In essence I have three systems all capable of keeping > the > shiny side up. The AP can accept LNAV/VNAV commands from the Chelton, LNAV > commands from the GRT and fly the aircraft independently depending on a > source selection switch for the AP. > > My two cents > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > http://www.avast.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New Aerosport Symmetrical Panel
From: "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 29, 2015
For Back UP EFIS: On an IFR platform I always utilize a separate manufacture for the secondary EFIS. The GRT Mini x is a great package in a small footprint. -------- Frank Dombroski RV-10 2.0 N46VT soon to be flying KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442746#442746 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
Subject: symmetrical panel and backup
Date: May 29, 2015
Trying to figure out how to keep backups in perspective. While building my 10 I am still flying my =9956 Cessna 172. Flew home yesterday IFR. One engine, one alternator, one main ships battery. Two radios, one powering a VOR/ILS/LOC head, and one a VOR. Had a tablet GPS on the yoke, and a backup tablet in the bag, no auto pilot. I know pilots that have been flying like this for years, even before the portable GPS=99s. Does it seem that we get a little carried away with backups? I am still trying to decide on a panel, but leaning towards two G3X=99s, and a mini-B each with batteries, autopilot controlled by the G3X=99s. No round dials. This seems like so much more backup than I have now, even still with one ships battery and alternator. Bill Greenley From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, May 29, 2015 10:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: symmetrical panel and backup There are several "mini-EFIS" available today that were not on the market 7-8 yrs ago. Even if you select the same brand as the main EFIS, the operating software is different. You have to decide whether you want same logic or being able to know the ins and outs of two different brand philosophies, and whether you want more Tees in your pitot static system to leak, or a GPS derived attitude, altitude and airspeed as backup. It appears the autopilot market has evolved to where the leading EFIS have integrated autopilots, and backup batteries for each screen. Having a separate autopilot generally adds several grand in cost. However, most autopilots, whether separate or integrated will fail if they don't have electrons to power them, as most use electric servos. One does have to decide whether to wear 2 belts and 1 or two suspenders to have enough backup. On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 5:51 AM, DLM wrote: If you are seriously interested in backup for IFR in IMC, you need two different EFIS systems and an autopilot with internal solid state gyros and backup batteries. My solution is Chelton primary with FAA level A software; GRT Sport/software (mini is now available) for backup and a Trutrak AP that will also fly the aircraft albeit not extremely precisely. I have three 680s on board although the last was added on the firewall more for weight and balance purposes. In essence I have three systems all capable of keeping the shiny side up. The AP can accept LNAV/VNAV commands from the Chelton, LNAV commands from the GRT and fly the aircraft independently depending on a source selection switch for the AP. My two cents --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List FORUMS - _blank">http://forums.matronics.com b Site - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2015
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
I do have a TCW IBBS backup battery that will power the MFD (which will drop into reversionary mode), engine monitor, one of the adahrs (along with the mag and temp probe), and the autopilot panel. The AP servos are NOT powered by the backup battery, but the autopilot panel will give me a flight director, so I will become the "meat servo". The MFD is also an XM enabled unit, so I'll even still have weather and some good tunes incase I get bored during the emergency! The backup battery will only be needed after the primary alternator, secondary 30 amp alternator, and the main ships battery fail. Additionally, if there is a CANBUS failure, the adahrs are both connected with a secondary RS232 connection to the PFD and MFD, helping me to keep the shiny side up. I have thought a LOT about systems redundancy. As an IT Systems Admin, it's part of my day job. I've designed as many of the systems to have redundancy, sometimes even dual and triple redundancy, as practical. The last big piece is going to be having a completely different brand backup PFD. Like I said before, I'm leaning towards a battery operated, GPS derived, self contained unit like a Dynon D1, as it isn't dependent on ANY of the other systems in the plane, like power or pitot/static. On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 9:26 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > There are several "mini-EFIS" available today that were not on the market > 7-8 yrs ago. Even if you select the same brand as the main EFIS, the > operating software is different. You have to decide whether you want same > logic or being able to know the ins and outs of two different brand > philosophies, and whether you want more Tees in your pitot static system to > leak, or a GPS derived attitude, altitude and airspeed as backup. > It appears the autopilot market has evolved to where the leading EFIS have > integrated autopilots, and backup batteries for each screen. Having a > separate autopilot generally adds several grand in cost. However, most > autopilots, whether separate or integrated will fail if they don't have > electrons to power them, as most use electric servos. One does have to > decide whether to wear 2 belts and 1 or two suspenders to have enough > backup. > > On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 5:51 AM, DLM wrote: > >> >> If you are seriously interested in backup for IFR in IMC, you need two >> different EFIS systems and an autopilot with internal solid state gyros >> and >> backup batteries. My solution is Chelton primary with FAA level A >> software; >> GRT Sport/software (mini is now available) for backup and a Trutrak AP >> that >> will also fly the aircraft albeit not extremely precisely. I have three >> 680s >> on board although the last was added on the firewall more for weight and >> balance purposes. In essence I have three systems all capable of keeping >> the >> shiny side up. The AP can accept LNAV/VNAV commands from the Chelton, LNAV >> commands from the GRT and fly the aircraft independently depending on a >> source selection switch for the AP. >> >> My two cents >> >> >> --- >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> http://www.avast.com >> >> >> ========== >> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: symmetrical panel and backup
Date: May 29, 2015
I agree that the landscape has changed since I made my panel decision 8 years ago. Then my backup was a Blue Mountain.when it crapped out I went to a third GRT screen.then replaced that with a GRT sport. Different enough to solve the same technology problem, but yet runs just like my other GRT system and thus no learning curve or retraining time caused by two unique systems. I also have three 2.5=9D steam gauges. With that I should be able to get out of the soup even if everything else goes tango uniform. I have two batteries, but that was more to move the CG forward than the actual need for a second battery. Rene' 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, May 29, 2015 8:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: symmetrical panel and backup There are several "mini-EFIS" available today that were not on the market 7-8 yrs ago. Even if you select the same brand as the main EFIS, the operating software is different. You have to decide whether you want same logic or being able to know the ins and outs of two different brand philosophies, and whether you want more Tees in your pitot static system to leak, or a GPS derived attitude, altitude and airspeed as backup. It appears the autopilot market has evolved to where the leading EFIS have integrated autopilots, and backup batteries for each screen. Having a separate autopilot generally adds several grand in cost. However, most autopilots, whether separate or integrated will fail if they don't have electrons to power them, as most use electric servos. One does have to decide whether to wear 2 belts and 1 or two suspenders to have enough backup. On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 5:51 AM, DLM wrote: If you are seriously interested in backup for IFR in IMC, you need two different EFIS systems and an autopilot with internal solid state gyros and backup batteries. My solution is Chelton primary with FAA level A software; GRT Sport/software (mini is now available) for backup and a Trutrak AP that will also fly the aircraft albeit not extremely precisely. I have three 680s on board although the last was added on the firewall more for weight and balance purposes. In essence I have three systems all capable of keeping the shiny side up. The AP can accept LNAV/VNAV commands from the Chelton, LNAV commands from the GRT and fly the aircraft independently depending on a source selection switch for the AP. My two cents --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List FORUMS - _blank">http://forums.matronics.com b Site - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
From: "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com>
Date: May 29, 2015
Tim Very well said. I also agree that the "hard" IFR thing is misused. You really need to be proficient in any IFR situation. Also, your BEST friend in IFR is ATC. You should NEVER be afraid or embarrassed to use them. Listening to everyone's opinion on what you HAVE to have to safely fly IFR really makes me chuckle. Have you guys looked at the ancient panels and systems in the airliners that carry you across the country and all over the world? They just updated the database in my work jet...using a single sided floppy disk...it took almost a half an hour... A plumber friend once told me something. He said, "The more complicated the plumbing is, the easier it is to stop it up." I think at some point, that statement applies here... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442761#442761 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2015
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
From: "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com>
Those old airliners may be ancient, but they're also very redundant. All the transport category aircraft I've ever flown have at least three fully independent sources of attitude information, at least two completely separate pitot-static systems with two air data computers, three altimeters, three air speed indicators... Sure, they may have no glass screens, and I flew plenty of turboprops across the country full of passengers using nothing but VOR/DME for navigation (often without an operable autopilot), but they were all designed so no single system failure on any of those planes would prove to be a major event. I don't think I need the same level of redundancy in my RV-10, but I really do want something like the GRT mini (or even 3 round dials) in case the primary systems glitch. And I've seen enough bugs in the software and electronics of airliners (which are built and tested to much higher standards than whatever I'll be putting in my RV-10) to make me want options. I know people do it all the time, but I'm just not comfortable flying IMC where the failure of a single vacuum pump can leave me shooting an approach with a turn coordinator and a whiskey compass. Sure, I trained for it; I would probably survive, but part of the reason for building my own plane is so that I can affordably have a little more redundancy than that. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2015
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
The one thing I'd note is that when planning an EFIS system, yes, there are times when it may be nice to have more than one manufacturer in the panel for those primary gauges. But, don't fall victim to going too far with that. I would spend as much as you need to get your primary system fully up to par and integrated. Then just add the 2nd system as a more stand-alone device. The issue you will run into sometimes is panel space. Don't sacrifice too much of your panel space of what you want for the primary just to give it to backups. And don't do something like pick one EFIS brand for one side and one for the other side. You'll never be as happy with how it all integrates. This isn't saying you SHOULDN'T have backups or varied vendors, but just saying not to short your primary for the purpose of having a bigger backup. You can have all the backup you need without all that much space taken up. Tim On 5/29/2015 11:59 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: > Those old airliners may be ancient, but they're also very redundant. > All the transport category aircraft I've ever flown have at least three > fully independent sources of attitude information, at least two > completely separate pitot-static systems with two air data computers, > three altimeters, three air speed indicators... Sure, they may have no > glass screens, and I flew plenty of turboprops across the country full > of passengers using nothing but VOR/DME for navigation (often without an > operable autopilot), but they were all designed so no single system > failure on any of those planes would prove to be a major event. > > I don't think I need the same level of redundancy in my RV-10, but I > really do want something like the GRT mini (or even 3 round dials) in > case the primary systems glitch. And I've seen enough bugs in the > software and electronics of airliners (which are built and tested to > much higher standards than whatever I'll be putting in my RV-10) to make > me want options. > > I know people do it all the time, but I'm just not comfortable flying > IMC where the failure of a single vacuum pump can leave me shooting an > approach with a turn coordinator and a whiskey compass. Sure, I trained > for it; I would probably survive, but part of the reason for building my > own plane is so that I can affordably have a little more redundancy than > that. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2015
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
From: "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com>
Tim: All good points, and no way I would split primary EFIS displays across vendors. The 3-screen 10" G3X touch system really does, I think, start to push the issue of it being possible to have the backup you want and the primary displays that you want. The 3 screen G3X just isn't going to leave enough room for something like the GRT-mini as a backup, which leaves me struggling a bit with the tradeoffs. I think the 3 screens are probably worth it for the primary use case, as a GRT-mini just takes up space without providing anything useful as long as the primary works. A 3rd G3X is going to be enormously useful every day, but I'm just not sure what to do as a backup in that case, short of deciding that 3 G3X's are probably good enough. And they probably are, but I keep going back to what happened to the F-22 when I envision software failures: http://www.dailytech.com/Lockheeds+F22+Raptor+Gets+Zapped+by+International+Date+Line/article6225.htm Looking around at modern spam cans (Cessna 350, Mooney Acclaim, SR-22) , they all seem to be going with the 3 round gauges as backups... On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 12:44 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > The one thing I'd note is that when planning an EFIS system, yes, > there are times when it may be nice to have more than one > manufacturer in the panel for those primary gauges. > But, don't fall victim to going too far with that. > I would spend as much as you need to get your primary system > fully up to par and integrated. Then just add the 2nd system > as a more stand-alone device. The issue you will run into > sometimes is panel space. Don't sacrifice too much of your > panel space of what you want for the primary just to give it > to backups. And don't do something like pick one EFIS brand > for one side and one for the other side. You'll never be > as happy with how it all integrates. This isn't saying you > SHOULDN'T have backups or varied vendors, but just saying > not to short your primary for the purpose of having a bigger > backup. You can have all the backup you need without > all that much space taken up. > Tim > > > On 5/29/2015 11:59 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: > >> Those old airliners may be ancient, but they're also very redundant. >> All the transport category aircraft I've ever flown have at least three >> fully independent sources of attitude information, at least two >> completely separate pitot-static systems with two air data computers, >> three altimeters, three air speed indicators... Sure, they may have no >> glass screens, and I flew plenty of turboprops across the country full >> of passengers using nothing but VOR/DME for navigation (often without an >> operable autopilot), but they were all designed so no single system >> failure on any of those planes would prove to be a major event. >> >> I don't think I need the same level of redundancy in my RV-10, but I >> really do want something like the GRT mini (or even 3 round dials) in >> case the primary systems glitch. And I've seen enough bugs in the >> software and electronics of airliners (which are built and tested to >> much higher standards than whatever I'll be putting in my RV-10) to make >> me want options. >> >> I know people do it all the time, but I'm just not comfortable flying >> IMC where the failure of a single vacuum pump can leave me shooting an >> approach with a turn coordinator and a whiskey compass. Sure, I trained >> for it; I would probably survive, but part of the reason for building my >> own plane is so that I can affordably have a little more redundancy than >> that. >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
Date: May 29, 2015
Looking over this thread it seems to me that it might be worthwhile defining the objectives before looking at solution sets. For a flat screen approach I want: - Devices that integrate for capability - Devices that do not rely on any single input - Two displays in the event that one dies, each from an independent power feed - Each display can perform any function - Two independent ADAHRS modules (or similar capability) - Enough redundancy in power to the panel that a single failure will not turn everything dark (e.g. no Avionics Master switch, no single master relay to the battery or multiple batteries feeding a common buss, etc.) There are a boatload of ways to achieve the above objectives, some more complex (and costly) than others. To Tim's point however, start off with what you want for normal operations then see what it can/can't do for any single failure mode that you can think of for the whole system. For the things you find unacceptable design in a back up. The rest are managed. I have two 10" displays, an analog airspeed and altimeter, two ADAHRS modules, a second radio and two selectable ways to power each device. A loss of any single component will support continued, but perhaps reduced capability IFR flight. Example of a managed risk is if the Garmin 650 craps out (as it already has) then I lose my certified IFR WAAS GPS and NAV. I'd be relying on the EFIS standalone GPS system so not legal for IFR but perfectly fine for getting me on the ground - after I do the required report to ATC. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Friday, May 29, 2015 2:45 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: symmetrical panel and backup The one thing I'd note is that when planning an EFIS system, yes, there are times when it may be nice to have more than one manufacturer in the panel for those primary gauges. But, don't fall victim to going too far with that. I would spend as much as you need to get your primary system fully up to par and integrated. Then just add the 2nd system as a more stand-alone device. The issue you will run into sometimes is panel space. Don't sacrifice too much of your panel space of what you want for the primary just to give it to backups. And don't do something like pick one EFIS brand for one side and one for the other side. You'll never be as happy with how it all integrates. This isn't saying you SHOULDN'T have backups or varied vendors, but just saying not to short your primary for the purpose of having a bigger backup. You can have all the backup you need without all that much space taken up. Tim On 5/29/2015 11:59 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote: > Those old airliners may be ancient, but they're also very redundant. > All the transport category aircraft I've ever flown have at least > three fully independent sources of attitude information, at least two > completely separate pitot-static systems with two air data computers, > three altimeters, three air speed indicators... Sure, they may have > no glass screens, and I flew plenty of turboprops across the country > full of passengers using nothing but VOR/DME for navigation (often > without an operable autopilot), but they were all designed so no > single system failure on any of those planes would prove to be a major event. > > I don't think I need the same level of redundancy in my RV-10, but I > really do want something like the GRT mini (or even 3 round dials) in > case the primary systems glitch. And I've seen enough bugs in the > software and electronics of airliners (which are built and tested to > much higher standards than whatever I'll be putting in my RV-10) to > make me want options. > > I know people do it all the time, but I'm just not comfortable flying > IMC where the failure of a single vacuum pump can leave me shooting an > approach with a turn coordinator and a whiskey compass. Sure, I > trained for it; I would probably survive, but part of the reason for > building my own plane is so that I can affordably have a little more > redundancy than that. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2015
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
Yeah, you added some good info. I'll expound on a couple more points. First, and this may seem like an attack but it's not, and it may seem like I'm biased because I'm a "don't have" guy, but I'm not. But... I'm just not in the camp that thinks bigger glass is better. At a certain point it just takes up more space. I have 3 screens and they give PLENTY of visibility, for the pilot, to all 3 of them, and they are maybe what, 1/3 the size of the big 10" ones? Much easier to fit in the panel that way and much easier to have *effective* backups. And by that I mean not where you have to have a backup instrument down by your fuel valve to be able to fit one in. I think Garmin had it right with the original G3X screens, personally. Those would be easy to fit into any RV10 panel and have 3 screens. But one very important addition I think is that if you are going for a real complete backup solution, don't forget some of the details. On my flight this last week, I had to do VTF for the ILS, and I not only had my NAV1 used by my EFIS for displaying the ILS on the EFIS, but I set NAV2 up as well, since it had been a while that I did a real ILS (not for practice) and especially in low conditions. I wanted that cross check with my Nav2. But what made it even POSSIBLE is that I had a CDI in my panel. I know almost nobody that seems to install a CDI anymore. But, it was a welcome instrument on that approach. If you want to have a Nav2 and have it be useable, you need at least a device that can display that info. In my RV-14 panel I just didn't have the room, so I won't have a CDI. That's Ok, I also won't have a NAV2. But that really changes my abilities in some situations. When I was picking through my approaches I could do, looking between 2 airports I was going to be near, there was only one ILS, and I don't remember for sure this detail but I don't think that there were ANY other approaches at either airport that could bring you lower than 300 or 400'. Ceilings were just below 300. GPS is great, but at many airports you may not get the low approach capability that you'd have with an ILS. So equip as appropriate. Now in a backup situation, in my RV-14, if I lost my NAV, I'd have been stuck and had to go somewhere else...and with 300' ceilings there isn't much available. Time to hike it to another airport maybe 30-45 minutes away. Anyway, EFIS's are great, but don't overlook the other devices is my main point. A Dynon/GRT/Blue Mountain/Whatever may be a good backup to a point. But it may not give you everything. Or, if you have 2 NAV radios, it may be that you want a mini-efis that can display the CDI on it too. Just so many things to think about. I was personally *considering* using a ipad with the Levil AHRS as a backup instrument in the RV-14...but the caveat is that if I depart on any flight where I may need it, I would have it ready and running the whole flight. I'm not sure sure it's a great backup for a whole panel, but it's all I had real good space for other than what round gauges supply. And for that matter, it's probably all I'd need. The comment about most production planes using round gauges is a good one. They go with those because they are a backup...and don't need to be full featured. But your flight style will change if you should be using them. Tim On 5/29/2015 2:32 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: > > Looking over this thread it seems to me that it might be worthwhile defining > the objectives before looking at solution sets. > > For a flat screen approach I want: > - Devices that integrate for capability > - Devices that do not rely on any single input > - Two displays in the event that one dies, each from an independent power > feed > - Each display can perform any function > - Two independent ADAHRS modules (or similar capability) > - Enough redundancy in power to the panel that a single failure will not > turn everything dark (e.g. no Avionics Master switch, no single master relay > to the battery or multiple batteries feeding a common buss, etc.) > > There are a boatload of ways to achieve the above objectives, some more > complex (and costly) than others. To Tim's point however, start off with > what you want for normal operations then see what it can/can't do for any > single failure mode that you can think of for the whole system. For the > things you find unacceptable design in a back up. The rest are managed. > > I have two 10" displays, an analog airspeed and altimeter, two ADAHRS > modules, a second radio and two selectable ways to power each device. A > loss of any single component will support continued, but perhaps reduced > capability IFR flight. Example of a managed risk is if the Garmin 650 craps > out (as it already has) then I lose my certified IFR WAAS GPS and NAV. I'd > be relying on the EFIS standalone GPS system so not legal for IFR but > perfectly fine for getting me on the ground - after I do the required report > to ATC. > > Carl > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2015
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
From: "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com>
On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > First, and this may seem like an attack but it's not, and it may > seem like I'm biased because I'm a "don't have" guy, but I'm not. > But... I'm just not in the camp that thinks bigger glass is better. Interesting point. I'd just assumed from looking at them at OSH, that flying behind giant screens would be a much more pleasant experience. But I've zero personal experience flying with large screens, so I don't know. Have you flown anything with big screens? The small garmins have always looked way too cluttered to me, and some bigger screens seems to make that better. Personally, the only glass I've spent any time behind is the collins pro line 4 in the CRJ, which has laughably small CRT displays by today's standards. I never thought they seemed small, but there were 6 of them (you can really only see the 2 in front of you and the 2 in the center), and collins doesn't have the same cluttered look that Garmin does. If I'd been forced to have the engine instruments share with the MFD, I do think the screens would be way too small. I want a plane that's comfortable to fly from either seat, as I'm likely to spend a lot of time with two pilots up front. (I'm also going to be doing instrument instruction with my build partner, and I'm somewhat greedy about wanting my own display over in the right seat.) I'd been thinking that a single 10" display in front of each pilot would be plenty, but the part that bothers me about that is a screen in front of the seat you're not sitting in is just too far away if one goes dark. Which means, do you switch seats, or crane your neck? A center screen would solve that problem. The G3X Touch is also available with 7" screens, and 3 of those would certainly be good enough, and leave plenty of room for backups..... but 3 bigger screens seems even better. I've still got well over a year before I have to start filling a panel (just starting on the fuel tanks now), but in the meantime I'm anxiously looking at what's out there. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 29, 2015
My setup has a GRT 6.5" screen centered on tbe left seat, then the avionics, then a second 6.5" screen, so this last one is offset to the left for someone in the right seat. Easy for the left seat to use. I did it this way so the engine instruments, normally on screen 2, are in the same place as on the 182 I flew for many years, so it seems natural to me. I have given instrument instruction, in actual, in someone else's -10, who had a similar set up. I had no problem looking across to the pilot's PFD; everything was quite readable. re Tim and CDIs: I quite agree. I routinely do not use the GRT's primary PFD page. Instead, I split it with an electronic HSI. On an ILS the main CDI is showing localizer deviation, while an RMI needle shows the SL30's multiplexed VOR, for cross fixes, missed approach, whatever you need on a no-gps approach. If everything goes bad and I'm reduced to my battery powered D-6 and a hand held Sporty's VOR (so old that it just shows digital to/from bearings) I've found (under the hood) that this works quite well. The trick is to almost close your eyes and imagine the bearing as a needle on an ADF, and fly the approach as if it were an NDB. Of course, that presumes that you can fly NDB approaches! -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442781#442781 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
From: "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com>
Date: May 30, 2015
"... don't think I need the same level of redundancy in my RV-10, but I really do want something like the GRT mini..." Exactly. I am current;y looking at an AFS EFIS with the GRT Mini backup. Seems like a good compromise. If the weather is so bad that I need triple redundant systems, then I will probably just delay a bit...or go on the airlines... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442808#442808 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: NAV splitter
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 30, 2015
The quick build kit I have, the previous builder installed two Archer NAV antennae one in each wingtip I'm assuming I can combine these signals using a combiner or reverse splitter . Will I be fighting a ghosting/corrupting signal using two signal sources? -------- Dave Ford RV6 for sale RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442813#442813 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NAV splitter
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 30, 2015
This absolutely does not work. You will make a directional antenna which works very well in some directions and very poorly in others. Which direction depends on the exact lengths of the coax. One Archer works just fine, with some reduction in sensitivity when looking thru the airframe direction. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442814#442814 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Date: May 30, 2015
Subject: Re: NAV splitter
Nope - will not work. The impedance match will be all wrong. Use one antenna for NAV, keep the other antenna as a backup comm - say for a handheld. It would work a boat load better than the handheld's rubber ducky antenna. I made this antenna out of same scrap aluminum and small pieces of fiberglass. I used an antenna tester to tune (most of these antennas are so far out that just slapping one in tends to produce disappointing results). 100nmi plus VOR range at altitude. Carl > On May 30, 2015, at 2:45 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > > This absolutely does not work. > You will make a directional antenna which works very well in some directions and very poorly in others. Which direction depends on the exact lengths of the coax. > One Archer works just fine, with some reduction in sensitivity when looking thru the airframe direction. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442814#442814 > > > The quick build kit I have, the previous builder installed two Archer NAV antennae one in each wingtip I'm assuming I can combine these signals using a combiner or reverse splitter . Will I be fighting a ghosting/corrupting signal using two signal sources? -------- Dave Ford RV6 for sale RV10 building Cadillac, MI > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: NAV splitter
Date: May 30, 2015
You can use one to Fe achieve Nav radio if you have two, but you don't want to try to combine them. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On May 30, 2015, at 1:31 PM, rvdave wrote: > > > The quick build kit I have, the previous builder installed two Archer NAV antennae one in each wingtip I'm assuming I can combine these signals using a combiner or reverse splitter . Will I be fighting a ghosting/corrupting signal using two signal sources? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 for sale > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442813#442813 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NAV splitter
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 30, 2015
Exactly what I need to know, thanks. -------- Dave Ford RV6 for sale RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442818#442818 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Wheel balancer
Date: May 30, 2015
The RV-10 is down for inspection, right wing replacement and to fix an annoying nose gear shimmy. Reading the achieves it was clear that wheel balancing is a major step to solving nose gear shimmy. I already have the solid nose gear axle mod. Finding a wheel balancer proved hard outside of dropping $400 for one from Aircraft Tool Supply. Tom Doran made this one with some very nice bearings he had laying around and milled Delrin spacers (he is magic with a mill machine). It is amazingly sensitive. I tried balancing the nose wheel in the past with just a horizontal rod to find the heavy spot. Using this rig I found my previous attempt to be way off. I ended up using six =BC oz stick on weights to get the nose wheel to balance. The mains used about three weights each. Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2015
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: symmetrical panel and backup
What you choose for backup may be dependent on whether your pitot/static lines run to ADAHRS in rear of plane (dynon Skyview) or if it is at the instrument panel. The GRT mini requires hook up to those lines, and you get benefit of actual airspeed and altitude. Dynon D1/D2 needs no hookup, but only gives you GPS derived ground speed and GPS track and GPS altitude. All better than nothing, but not quite as good as barometric and pitot derived numbers. Huge change in redundancy from when I was flying in non-radar areas with venturi powered gyros and electric turn coordinator, with single nav/com/ils and single ADF. That gave some blood pressure rise when the venturis iced up. Key word is when, not if. Fortunately the old AN gyros would operate down to less than 1" of vacuum, so you got warning when the vacuum started trending below 4" All with one alternator and one battery for electrons. On 5/30/2015 8:39 AM, Rocketman1988 wrote: > > "... don't think I need the same level of redundancy in my RV-10, but I really do want something like the GRT mini..." > > Exactly. I am current;y looking at an AFS EFIS with the GRT Mini backup. Seems like a good compromise. If the weather is so bad that I need triple redundant systems, then I will probably just delay a bit...or go on the airlines... > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442808#442808 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2015
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: NAV splitter
I have installed two, because I have two nav/coms. If you only have one, perhaps with an ILS, you could use the second one for the GS. As others have said, you can't combine, and if you split for GS or second nav you lose about 50% of the signal strength. On 5/30/2015 12:53 PM, rvdave wrote: > > Exactly what I need to know, thanks. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 for sale > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442818#442818 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NAV splitter
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: May 30, 2015
If your nav radio has separate inputs for vor and GS you can hook up one antenna to each and save tbe cost of a splitter. If you want to use it for a com radio you'll want to bend it up as much as possible, and trim about 10% of the length off the end. It won't be great but as Carl said it's better than the rubber duckie. For techies: the impedance match is fine, the issue is that depending on the direction of the signal, there will be phase mis-matches. When the phase difference is 180 degrees you'll get no signal. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442822#442822 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
From: "bruceflys" <bruceflys(at)comcast.net>
Date: May 31, 2015
This works well for me: http://www.marcparnes.com/Honda_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm I made a vertical "U" of 2X6 wood to support the ends. -------- RV-10 UC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442831#442831 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2015
From: David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
Date: May 31, 2015
I have that same one. It works very well. I'm really surprised how friction free their bearings are. It's real hard to get the balance perfect almost because if you're a perfectionist you can spend a lot of time getting it real precise. But once you get it real close its easy to know you did a good job. The price is right too. Highly recommended. Been using mine now for almost 9 years I think. Glad they're still making them because it looks like it's a one man business. Tim > On May 31, 2015, at 7:12 AM, bruceflys wrote: > > > This works well for me: http://www.marcparnes.com/Honda_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm > > I made a vertical "U" of 2X6 wood to support the ends. > > -------- > RV-10 UC > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442831#442831 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: May 31, 2015
Hi Bruce Which kit did you get? Was it the UNIV kit? Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone > On May 31, 2015, at 8:12 AM, bruceflys wrote: > > > This works well for me: http://www.marcparnes.com/Honda_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm > > I made a vertical "U" of 2X6 wood to support the ends. > > -------- > RV-10 UC > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442831#442831 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: tie breaker
Date: May 31, 2015
If you have dual AHDRS with auto monitoring, and dual screens, the need for a tie breaker is debatable . My dual Skyview provides this capability as do other EFIS systems. You may not realize this, but you already have a tie breaker, as they call them in jets, if you have an IPhone 5 or newer. Use the compass ap that came with the phone, and go to the second page of the ap, and therein is a very accurate pitch and roll display, and it won=99t tumble. I have played around with it , maneuvering in my RV8 and have no problem returning to strait and level and maintaining that, using that as a sole reference, (under a hood with a safety pilot). You don=99t get airspeed or altitude info, but target pitch and power is all you need to fly anyway while you sort things out. Turn the IPhone's auto lock feature to =9Cnever=9D and velcro the phone to the panel. If you fly lots of hard IFR, then go ahead and get the real deal in your panel. If all you fly is light IFR, like getting above a marine overcast on departure or down thru one with an approach, then dual AHDRS with auto monitoring, and the IPhone tie breaker may be all you need. There are probably better aviation aps that use the ADRS chip in the IPhone or IPad or whatever devise you have with you , but you may already have all the tie breaker that you need. Just saying.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2015
Subject: Re: tie breaker
From: Bruce Breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
I just grabbed my wife's iPhone 6 Plus - amazing! Can't wait to put it in the plane and try it out. Thanks! On Sun, May 31, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Chris Hukill wrote: > If you have dual AHDRS with auto monitoring, and dual screens, the need > for a tie breaker is debatable . My dual Skyview provides this capability > as do other EFIS systems. You may not realize this, but you already have a > tie breaker, as they call them in jets, if you have an IPhone 5 or newer. > Use the compass ap that came with the phone, and go to the second page of > the ap, and therein is a very accurate pitch and roll display, and it won =99t > tumble. I have played around with it , maneuvering in my RV8 and have no > problem returning to strait and level and maintaining that, using that as a > sole reference, (under a hood with a safety pilot). You don=99t get airspeed > or altitude info, but target pitch and power is all you need to fly anywa y > while you sort things out. Turn the IPhone's auto lock feature to =9Cnever=9D > and velcro the phone to the panel. If you fly lots of hard IFR, then go > ahead and get the real deal in your panel. If all you fly is light IFR, > like getting above a marine overcast on departure or down thru one with a n > approach, then dual AHDRS with auto monitoring, and the IPhone tie breake r > may be all you need. There are probably better aviation aps that use the > ADRS chip in the IPhone or IPad or whatever devise you have with you , bu t > you may already have all the tie breaker that you need. Just saying.... > > * > =========== onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> =========== =========== om/contribution> =========== > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2015
Subject: Re: tie breaker
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
That is cool. One thing to be careful of in that app. After 45 degrees in either roll direction, it "flips" to think you're holding the phone in portrait vs landscape. My guess is that the aviation based apps like this would be much better. On Sun, May 31, 2015 at 11:20 AM, Bruce Breckenridge < bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> wrote: > I just grabbed my wife's iPhone 6 Plus - amazing! Can't wait to put it i n > the plane and try it out. Thanks! > > > On Sun, May 31, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Chris Hukill wrote: > >> If you have dual AHDRS with auto monitoring, and dual screens, the need >> for a tie breaker is debatable . My dual Skyview provides this capabilit y >> as do other EFIS systems. You may not realize this, but you already have a >> tie breaker, as they call them in jets, if you have an IPhone 5 or newer . >> Use the compass ap that came with the phone, and go to the second page o f >> the ap, and therein is a very accurate pitch and roll display, and it wo n=99t >> tumble. I have played around with it , maneuvering in my RV8 and have no >> problem returning to strait and level and maintaining that, using that a s a >> sole reference, (under a hood with a safety pilot). You don=99t ge t airspeed >> or altitude info, but target pitch and power is all you need to fly anyw ay >> while you sort things out. Turn the IPhone's auto lock feature to =9Cnever=9D >> and velcro the phone to the panel. If you fly lots of hard IFR, then go >> ahead and get the real deal in your panel. If all you fly is light IFR, >> like getting above a marine overcast on departure or down thru one with an >> approach, then dual AHDRS with auto monitoring, and the IPhone tie break er >> may be all you need. There are probably better aviation aps that use the >> ADRS chip in the IPhone or IPad or whatever devise you have with you , b ut >> you may already have all the tie breaker that you need. Just saying.... >> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * >> >> > * > =========== onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> =========== =========== om/contribution> =========== > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: tie breaker
Date: May 31, 2015
I just tried this. That's where his key words of setting your phone to rota tion lock is important. I always keep my phone rotate locked and it worked p roperly that way, but yes, if you turn that off it could be very problematic . I have a gyro app that is much prettier than the compass version, so I doubt I'll use compass, but it is nice to know its there. Tim > On May 31, 2015, at 11:36 AM, Ed Kranz wrote: > > That is cool. > > One thing to be careful of in that app. After 45 degrees in either roll di rection, it "flips" to think you're holding the phone in portrait vs landsca pe. My guess is that the aviation based apps like this would be much better. > >> On Sun, May 31, 2015 at 11:20 AM, Bruce Breckenridge wrote: >> I just grabbed my wife's iPhone 6 Plus - amazing! Can't wait to put it i n the plane and try it out. Thanks! >> >> >> >>> On Sun, May 31, 2015 at 8:17 AM, Chris Hukill wrote: >>> If you have dual AHDRS with auto monitoring, and dual screens, the need f or a tie breaker is debatable . My dual Skyview provides this capability as d o other EFIS systems. You may not realize this, but you already have a tie b reaker, as they call them in jets, if you have an IPhone 5 or newer. Use th e compass ap that came with the phone, and go to the second page of the ap, a nd therein is a very accurate pitch and roll display, and it won=99t t umble. I have played around with it , maneuvering in my RV8 and have no prob lem returning to strait and level and maintaining that, using that as a sole reference, (under a hood with a safety pilot). You don=99t get airspe ed or altitude info, but target pitch and power is all you need to fly anywa y while you sort things out. Turn the IPhone's auto lock feature to =9C never=9D and velcro the phone to the panel. If you fly lots of hard IFR , then go ahead and get the real deal in your panel. If all you fly is light IFR, like getting above a marine overcast on departure or down thru one wit h an approach, then dual AHDRS with auto monitoring, and the IPhone tie brea ker may be all you need. There are probably better aviation aps that use the ADRS chip in the IPhone or IPad or whatever devise you have with you , but y ou may already have all the tie breaker that you need. Just saying.... >>> >>> >>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2015
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-balancing-stand-98488.html Here is what ive used in the past. The axle sizes are slightly different. I remember it taking me a while to finally get the nose wheel balanced correctly. If the plane sits for too long, i will notice it bounce now and then. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
From: "bruceflys" <bruceflys(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jun 01, 2015
Sorry, Les, but I can't answer. When I bought mine a few years ago, it was offered specifically as an aircraft wheel balancer on a different website. I am unable to relocate it. -------- RV-10 UC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442871#442871 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: tie breaker
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2015
I would not rely on that as a tiebreaker. Once you get into a turn the centripetal forces start messing with the attitude solution much like your own senses, which we all know better not to rely on. The steeper the turn the bigger the error. To correct for the centripetal error you need to factor in speed, and I don't think the compass app does that, but I could be wrong, I never tried the app in flight. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442915#442915 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: tie breaker
Date: Jun 03, 2015
Lenny The purpose of a "tie breaker" is to verify which of your attitude indications are correct when two systems are in disagreement. It is mostly redundant information in modern EFIS systems as the EFIS will compare it's attitude information with pitot- static and GPS data and figure out which one is in error from that. It then alerts the pilot with it's determination of which attitude system is in fault. The pilot only has to verify that recommendation and the EFIS will run both screens on the good AHDRS . This all happens in a few seconds. The pilot should have a means of verifying the attitude information during those few seconds, hence a tie breaker. Any precession error or centripetal forces aren't a factor as your only interested in the displayed attitude of the tie breaker during the short period of time that your verifying the EFIS's solution to the displayed error. In VMC you could just look out the window, or in the bad old days you could try to fly with needle ball and airspeed. Heck we had to be able to fly an approach using only an airspeed indicator, altimeter, and an electric turn and bank even with all of it's precession errors. A modern standby suite should be able to give you all the info a needle, ball and airspeed gives you, but the panel real estate dedicated to those old dials would be better spent on a second screen with it's second, monitored AHDRS. Your IPhone velcroed to the panel with it's attitude info displayed could then be your tiebreaker. Chris Subject: RV10-List: Re: tie breaker From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> I would not rely on that as a tiebreaker. Once you get into a turn the centripetal forces start messing with the attitude solution much like your own senses, which we all know better not to rely on. The steeper the turn the bigger the error. To correct for the centripetal error you need to factor in speed, and I don't think the compass app does that, but I could be wrong, I never tried the app in flight. Lenny ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: throttle quadrant cable length
Date: Jun 03, 2015
The current CT Q-49.5 is 49.5 inches long. I seem to recall that another slightly longer length has been used on the IO540 installation on the quadrant 10s. Any comments? David McNeill N46007 900+ --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 03, 2015
Subject: Sad News
I'm sad to hear that Jeremy Monnett, CEO of Sonex, died in a crash at Oshkosh along with another Sonex employee, Mike Clark. I worked with Jeremy on the FAA 51% rule committee a few years ago. He was a great guy and very dedicated to experimental aviation. http://abcnews.go.com/US/wireStory/aircraft-manufacturers-ceo-mechanic-killed-plane-crash-31498294 --Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2015
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: throttle quadrant cable length
A slightly longer length for all three cables is better than what is supplied. I originally installed the standard cables on a standard IO-540 installation with the quadrant. I'm not sure there is a 'standard' quadrant installation but my quadrant seemed to end up where everyone elses has. It worked but at year 2 all three cables had frayed in spots and there was some melting of the plastic covering in spots on 1 or two. Per advice gleaned from the boards, I replaced all three with custom cables from California Push-Pull. Same spec as Vans supplied except the plastic coating was higher temp I believe. The cables I ordered, installed and am flying with are 176-VTT-2-47, -51, and -72. In retrospect, I wish I had gone with those in the original build. On 6/3/2015 11:23 AM, David wrote: > > The current CT Q-49.5 is 49.5 inches long. I seem to recall that > another slightly longer length has been used on the IO540 installation > on the quadrant 10s. Any comments? > > David McNeill > > N46007 900+ > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Avast logo > > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com > > > * > > > * > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Missing step? 18-5 Fuel Tanks
Date: Jun 03, 2015
Just curious. I'm trimming up my wing root fairings and am running into a problem. Going back, I think I've found it. Attached is a photo of 18-5. They call for a dimple in the T-1005B (upper) shim. But the plans don't call for dimples in the T-1005C (lower) shim. The skin is dimpled (as called for under in the wing attach section), but this substructure isn't. Am I missing something in assuming these bottom shims need to be dimpled too? Or is there something I don't know/understand. Phil Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Missing step? 18-5 Fuel Tanks
Date: Jun 03, 2015
With photo this time. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 3, 2015, at 8:41 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > Just curious. I'm trimming up my wing root fairings and am running into a problem. Going back, I think I've found it. > > Attached is a photo of 18-5. They call for a dimple in the T-1005B (upper ) shim. But the plans don't call for dimples in the T-1005C (lower) shim. > > The skin is dimpled (as called for under in the wing attach section), but t his substructure isn't. > > Am I missing something in assuming these bottom shims need to be dimpled t oo? Or is there something I don't know/understand. > > Phil > > > > Sent from my iPhone

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2015
Subject: Re: Missing step? 18-5 Fuel Tanks
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Phil, The difference is the top and bottom fairings join at the top, where you have the dimpled nutplates, while the rest of the holes go through more layers and can be countersunk. There is no skin joint on the bottom, just at the forward spar attach on top. Kelly On Wed, Jun 3, 2015 at 6:41 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > Just curious. I'm trimming up my wing root fairings and am running into a > problem. Going back, I think I've found it. > > Attached is a photo of 18-5. They call for a dimple in the T-1005B > (upper) shim. But the plans don't call for dimples in the T-1005C (lower) > shim. > > The skin is dimpled (as called for under in the wing attach section), but > this substructure isn't. > > Am I missing something in assuming these bottom shims need to be dimpled > too? Or is there something I don't know/understand. > > Phil > > > Sent from my iPhone > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Missing step? 18-5 Fuel Tanks
From: "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com>
Date: Jun 03, 2015
I am at the root fairing step and had to read and re read the plans to figure that one out...the holes that are not dimple get counter sunk to accept the dimpled root fairing... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442968#442968 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Missing step? 18-5 Fuel Tanks
Date: Jun 03, 2015
Do you remember where that step can be found? That was going to be my plan. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 3, 2015, at 9:21 PM, Rocketman1988 wrote: > > > I am at the root fairing step and had to read and re read the plans to figure that one out...the holes that are not dimple get counter sunk to accept the dimpled root fairing... > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442968#442968 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2015
Subject: Re: Missing step? 18-5 Fuel Tanks
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Phil, I just looked for it and didn't find the step. I'm not sure if I just decided to go ahead and do the countersinking as I was doing the wing attach or if I ran across it somewhere. PG 44-10 figure has mention of machine countersinking of the tank skin and shows the rest of the holes on the stub spar as though they were already done. Kelly On Wed, Jun 3, 2015 at 7:37 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > Do you remember where that step can be found? That was going to be my > plan. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jun 3, 2015, at 9:21 PM, Rocketman1988 wrote: > > > > > > I am at the root fairing step and had to read and re read the plans to > figure that one out...the holes that are not dimple get counter sunk to > accept the dimpled root fairing... > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=442968#442968 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2015
From: "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Learning to Fly
On 06/03/2015 06:35 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > This is a great read... worth passing on to anyone interested in > learning to fly Thanks for sharing, as off-topic as it might be. As a flight instructor, I really enjoyed reading it. It's often hard for me to understand exactly what it's like for a student with zero knowledge of flight, and I think the author does a wonderful job of conveying exactly what the experience was like for him. Since it's of our job to try to see things from that point of view, I'd recommend it to any flight instructor. Berck (looks forward to parts 3 and 4) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: control cables
Date: Jun 04, 2015
After discussions with Vans and other Cablecraft assemblers, I have found the following. The standard cables as supplied by the kit manufacturer are rated for 200-300F and the contents of the cables then soften and melt with summer temperatures after shutdown. These are industrial grade cables. They are about $70-$80 and last several years, and then the controls begin to move with difficulty and must at some point be replaced. Cablecraft also makes aircraft grade cables that are rated to about 350F and cost 2-3 times the industrial. I am going to order them which are supposed to be airworthy for life of the airframe. This seems preferable to changing cables at 500 hour intervals. In the meantime I am ordering a throttle cable from California Push Pull to install until the stainless cables are ready. YMMV but when the T, P,M controls start to become difficult to move or jerky it is time. I have already replaced the original cables several years ago. David McNeill 2008 N46007 900+ TT --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Gauging interest in a fly-in in UPer land
Date: Jun 04, 2015
I am gauging interest in having a fly-in in Watersmeet, in the UP of Michiga n. We are staying up here with some friends and I can't help thinking that t his would be a perfect place for a fly-in. I keep thinking about Triple Tree and think this would be a great place to have a similar type of event for t hose in the north, probably in mid to late September. The place we are staying is the Northwoods Conference Center, 72MI. It has a mile-long paved runway and a lodge right next to the runway that can sleep a s many as 230 people. Camping would also be an option. They have a full comm ercial kitchen, so 3 meals a day would be available. There is a big private l ake behind the lodge for fishing, canoeing, kayaking and swimming. There is a 3.7 mile road around the lake for on-road biking or hiking, and there are m iles and miles of bike and hiking trails. The setting is amazingly beautiful . The lodge also has a gym with a volleyball net, a big auditorium, a big lobb y with couches and chairs, a 2-lane bowling alley (out of order right now, b ut hopefully fixed by Sept) and a game room. The cost per room is $50/night and each normal room has 2 twin beds and a pr ivate bathroom, so it would cost $25/night/person for the room. There are su ites available for families, but I don't know the costs right now. Meals are all buffet meals (whoever organizes it can pick the menu), and are $7/perso n for breakfast and lunch and $9/person for dinner. So, for $50/day/person y ou could enjoy a relaxing time with a bunch of other airplane people. I am s ure whoever organizes the event may opt to have some kind of registration fe e to cover organization costs, but the above mentioned fees cover all of the costs of the conference center. Those choosing to camp next to their planes would just pay for meals and registration costs, if any. The conference center is waned and operated by a Christian ministry, so they don't allow any alcoholic beverages on the grounds. I may or may not be a part of it, but just thought I would gauge interest th at others may have for what I think would be a perfect setting for a long we ekend fly-in. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2015
Subject: Re: Gauging interest in a fly-in in UPer land
From: William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
Sounds good to me, could we allow builders to fly in their non RV aircraft. I could bring pictures of he build and tape them to the Cessna. :) On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 2:46 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > I am gauging interest in having a fly-in in Watersmeet, in the UP of > Michigan. We are staying up here with some friends and I can't help > thinking that this would be a perfect place for a fly-in. I keep thinking > about Triple Tree and think this would be a great place to have a similar > type of event for those in the north, probably in mid to late September. > > The place we are staying is the Northwoods Conference Center, 72MI. It has > a mile-long paved runway and a lodge right next to the runway that can > sleep as many as 230 people. Camping would also be an option. They have a > full commercial kitchen, so 3 meals a day would be available. There is a > big private lake behind the lodge for fishing, canoeing, kayaking and > swimming. There is a 3.7 mile road around the lake for on-road biking or > hiking, and there are miles and miles of bike and hiking trails. The > setting is amazingly beautiful. > > The lodge also has a gym with a volleyball net, a big auditorium, a big > lobby with couches and chairs, a 2-lane bowling alley (out of order right > now, but hopefully fixed by Sept) and a game room. > > The cost per room is $50/night and each normal room has 2 twin beds and a > private bathroom, so it would cost $25/night/person for the room. There are > suites available for families, but I don't know the costs right now. Meals > are all buffet meals (whoever organizes it can pick the menu), and are > $7/person for breakfast and lunch and $9/person for dinner. So, for > $50/day/person you could enjoy a relaxing time with a bunch of other > airplane people. I am sure whoever organizes the event may opt to have some > kind of registration fee to cover organization costs, but the above > mentioned fees cover all of the costs of the conference center. Those > choosing to camp next to their planes would just pay for meals and > registration costs, if any. > > The conference center is waned and operated by a Christian ministry, so > they don't allow any alcoholic beverages on the grounds. > > I may or may not be a part of it, but just thought I would gauge interest > that others may have for what I think would be a perfect setting for a long > weekend fly-in. > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > 352-427-0285 > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > > Sent from my iPad > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: control cables
Date: Jun 04, 2015
Two additional points of interest: - If using push/pull controls the throttle cable Van's recommends is too short (47.5"). Get the one Van's sells for the RV-7 IO-360 (50.5"). - Agree on the heat issue with any of the cable options. Where the cable runs near the engine I put it through a small diameter piece of fire sleeve, like Aeroquip AE102-8. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2015 2:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: control cables After discussions with Vans and other Cablecraft assemblers, I have found the following. The standard cables as supplied by the kit manufacturer are rated for 200-300F and the contents of the cables then soften and melt with summer temperatures after shutdown. These are industrial grade cables. They are about $70-$80 and last several years, and then the controls begin to move with difficulty and must at some point be replaced. Cablecraft also makes aircraft grade cables that are rated to about 350F and cost 2-3 times the industrial. I am going to order them which are supposed to be airworthy for life of the airframe. This seems preferable to changing cables at 500 hour intervals. In the meantime I am ordering a throttle cable from California Push Pull to install until the stainless cables are ready. YMMV but when the T, P,M controls start to become difficult to move or jerky it is time. I have already replaced the original cables several years ago. David McNeill 2008 N46007 900+ TT _____ Avast logo This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Beyer <fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Missing step? 18-5 Fuel Tanks
Date: Jun 04, 2015
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Jun 04, 2015
Hi Tim Which model of wheel balancer did you get. I am interested in getting one but am unsure as to which model is appropriate for the standard Van's wheels. Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443045#443045 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2015
Subject: Re: control cables
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Did you look at McFarlane for cables? They offer RV-10 specific cables in aircraft grade. They have PMA for some Cessna and Piper, and now are OEM supplier for Mooney. I don't recall exact pricing, probably between $250 and $300 per cable. Teflon lined, first rate construction. On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 11:21 AM, David wrote: > After discussions with Vans and other Cablecraft assemblers, I have > found the following. The standard cables as supplied by the kit > manufacturer are rated for 200-300F and the contents of the cables then > soften and melt with summer temperatures after shutdown. These are > industrial grade cables. They are about $70-$80 and last several years, and > then the controls begin to move with difficulty and must at some point be > replaced. Cablecraft also makes aircraft grade cables that are rated to > about 350F and cost 2-3 times the industrial. I am going to order them > which are supposed to be airworthy for life of the airframe. This seems > preferable to changing cables at 500 hour intervals. In the meantime I am > ordering a throttle cable from California Push Pull to install until the > stainless cables are ready. YMMV but when the T, P,M controls start to > become difficult to move or jerky it is time. I have already replaced the > original cables several years ago. > > > David McNeill > > 2008 N46007 900+ TT > > > ------------------------------ > [image: Avast logo] > > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tech in the front office - Part Deux
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Jun 04, 2015
Hi So over the past 8 days I have out 3500 nm on my -10 and have been very pleased with performance. It is a great X-try machine and uber comfortable. The only fly in the ointment has been that my EFIS screens don't support Canadian XM Weather. While ADSB weather is a possibility in the US, ADSB is not available in Canada. When I was flying back to Canada from the US, I found that the lack of wx info meant I had to overnight in KGFK as I didn't want to thread my way through the wx. So as to reduce ongoing subscription costs I am thought I would repurpose my XM weather receiver to work with an IPAD and the Fltplan GO app. While I don't believe that the approach plates are georef'd, I can live with that as my EFIS screens show the approach tracks. Has anyone used XM wx with the Fltplan GO app. I would be very interested in first hand opinions. Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443055#443055 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2015
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
Here's my writeup from 2008 when I bought it. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html Tim On 6/4/2015 5:54 PM, kearney wrote: > > Hi Tim > > Which model of wheel balancer did you get. I am interested in getting one but am unsure as to which model is appropriate for the standard Van's wheels. > > Cheers > > Les > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wheel balancer
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Jun 04, 2015
Hi Tim As always, many thanks for the veritable fount of information on your site. Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443060#443060 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV9a
From: "clyde" <tcwflyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 05, 2015
navworx exp 600 deliveries Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443085#443085 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2015
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: control cables
California push-pull is a Cablecraft assembler. The cables I spec'd previously were $60 to $70 each 2 years ago. I believe the ones I ordered are rated to a higher temp than the Vans supplied cables, i.e. to 350F. The marine cables seem to have more stainless than we probably need for aircraft. text sent - call me Bill Watson On 6/4/2015 2:21 PM, David wrote: > > After discussions with Vans and other Cablecraft assemblers, I have > found the following. The standard cables as supplied by the kit > manufacturer are rated for 200-300F and the contents of the cables > then soften and melt with summer temperatures after shutdown. These > are industrial grade cables. They are about $70-$80 and last several > years, and then the controls begin to move with difficulty and must at > some point be replaced. Cablecraft also makes aircraft grade cables > that are rated to about 350F and cost 2-3 times the industrial. I am > going to order them which are supposed to be airworthy for life of the > airframe. This seems preferable to changing cables at 500 hour > intervals. In the meantime I am ordering a throttle cable from > California Push Pull to install until the stainless cables are ready. > YMMV but when the T, P,M controls start to become difficult to move or > jerky it is time. I have already replaced the original cables several > years ago. > > David McNeill > > 2008 N46007 900+ TT > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Avast logo > > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com > > > * > > > * > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Shout Out to Barrett
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Jun 06, 2015
Hi Since Feb I have put about 70 hours on my *new* Barrett Precision Engines IO-540 that has both 9:1 pistons and cold air induction. Of the 70 hours, 27 were over an eight day trip to eastern Canada from Alberta (for the geographically challenged hat is similar to going from Montana to New York). In short I am very, very happy with how the engine has performed in hot and cold weather. I recently took the engine up to 17K and still had ponies to spare. My CofA limit is 20K and I might try that in the soon. I haven't been aggressive in leaning the engine, but I have seen 155+ Kt TAS at 8-10k at 12-13 GPH using 21 square. Over the next couple of weeks I plan to do a few controlled tests to see what the impact of different power settings are. The engine is very smooth - I have an MT 3 blade prop - one MUST look good on the flight line!). Initial indications are the the injectors as provided are quite close when leaning but I will have to do the GAMI test to confirm. I am still mastering hot starts but the purge valve makes hot starts fairly simple. Fortunately I have the fuel return lines already plumbed so I could take advantage of this option. Over the past 40 hours my oil consumption has been dropping, it now seems to be around 13 hrs / qt and may be lower yet. I am still working out how much oil the sump likes - I *think* it is something less than 6.5 qts. Part of my initial oil loss may have been to higher than desired oil levels in the sump and the overall break in process. All that being said, Allan and Rhonda Barrett have provided great after sales service. Service really matters when problems need to be fixed or questions (dumb and otherwise) need to be answered. My experience with both has been great. I always felt that Allan and Rhonda were as engaged with my success as I was was. Anyway, I just wanted to acknowledge the great product and service that Barrett Precision Engines provides. Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443156#443156 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Oil On The Belly
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Jun 06, 2015
Hi No this is not a kinky post ..... Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple Green. Until recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I needed to clean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this rediscovered product a go. It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was deposited during my engine break-in. Much, much nicer than Varsol or avgas. I used only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2015
Subject: Re: Shout Out to Barrett
From: John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com>
I second your observations on Allen, Rhonda and of course the Quality of Product from Barrett. On Jun 6, 2015 7:35 PM, "kearney" wrote: > > Hi > > Since Feb I have put about 70 hours on my *new* Barrett Precision Engines > IO-540 that has both 9:1 pistons and cold air induction. > > Of the 70 hours, 27 were over an eight day trip to eastern Canada from > Alberta (for the geographically challenged hat is similar to going from > Montana to New York). > > In short I am very, very happy with how the engine has performed in hot > and cold weather. I recently took the engine up to 17K and still had > ponies to spare. My CofA limit is 20K and I might try that in the soon. > > I haven't been aggressive in leaning the engine, but I have seen 155+ Kt > TAS at 8-10k at 12-13 GPH using 21 square. Over the next couple of weeks I > plan to do a few controlled tests to see what the impact of different > power settings are. > > The engine is very smooth - I have an MT 3 blade prop - one MUST look good > on the flight line!). Initial indications are the the injectors as provided > are quite close when leaning but I will have to do the GAMI test to confirm. > > I am still mastering hot starts but the purge valve makes hot starts > fairly simple. Fortunately I have the fuel return lines already plumbed so > I could take advantage of this option. > > Over the past 40 hours my oil consumption has been dropping, it now seems > to be around 13 hrs / qt and may be lower yet. I am still working out how > much oil the sump likes - I *think* it is something less than 6.5 qts. Part > of my initial oil loss may have been to higher than desired oil levels in > the sump and the overall break in process. > > > All that being said, Allan and Rhonda Barrett have provided great after > sales service. Service really matters when problems need to be fixed or > questions (dumb and otherwise) need to be answered. My experience with both > has been great. I always felt that Allan and Rhonda were as engaged with my > success as I was was. > > Anyway, I just wanted to acknowledge the great product and service that > Barrett Precision Engines provides. > > Cheers > > Les > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443156#443156 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2015
From: Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oil On The Belly
On sale at Amazon now, $17.43/gallon and Prime available. Marcus On Saturday, June 6, 2015 10:55 PM, kearney wrote: Hi No this is not a kinky post ..... Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple Green. U ntil recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I needed to c lean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this rediscovered produc t a go. It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was deposit ed during my engine break-in. Much, much=C2- nicer than Varsol or avgas. I used only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 S - - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Oil On The Belly
Date: Jun 06, 2015
Be careful with simple green. It is very abrasive and will etch paint and aluminum. We are not allowed to use it on our King Airs, or Lear jets. Someone made the mistake of using it and although it did indeed remove the oil and carbon very well, it etched the paint and the aircraft had to be repainted. Dawn with warm water in a squirt bottle can work well also. Justin > On Jun 6, 2015, at 18:44, kearney wrote: > > > Hi > > No this is not a kinky post ..... > > Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple Green. Until recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I needed to clean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this rediscovered product a go. > > It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was deposited during my engine break-in. Much, much nicer than Varsol or avgas. I used only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. > > > Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. > > Cheers > > Les > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2015
Subject: Re: Oil On The Belly
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
There is Simple Green, original product, which the military banned from its aircraft because it was corrosive. The Extreme Aircraft Simple Green was developed to correct that, and is supposed to be safe and military approved. On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 9:12 PM, Justin Jones wrote: > > Be careful with simple green. It is very abrasive and will etch paint and > aluminum. We are not allowed to use it on our King Airs, or Lear jets. > Someone made the mistake of using it and although it did indeed remove the > oil and carbon very well, it etched the paint and the aircraft had to be > repainted. > > Dawn with warm water in a squirt bottle can work well also. > > Justin > > > > On Jun 6, 2015, at 18:44, kearney wrote: > > > > > > Hi > > > > No this is not a kinky post ..... > > > > Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple > Green. Until recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I > needed to clean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this > rediscovered product a go. > > > > It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was > deposited during my engine break-in. Much, much nicer than Varsol or > avgas. I used only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. > > > > > > Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. > > > > Cheers > > > > Les > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: Shout Out to Barrett
Date: Jun 06, 2015
I have the same Barrett engine and prop as you do. I can agree 100% with wh at you've said. Superb engine and superb people! > Subject: RV10-List: Shout Out to Barrett > From: kearney(at)shaw.ca > Date: Sat=2C 6 Jun 2015 19:26:09 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Hi > > Since Feb I have put about 70 hours on my *new* Barrett Precision Engines IO-540 that has both 9:1 pistons and cold air induction. > > Of the 70 hours=2C 27 were over an eight day trip to eastern Canada from Alberta (for the geographically challenged hat is similar to going from Mon tana to New York). > > In short I am very=2C very happy with how the engine has performed in hot and cold weather. I recently took the engine up to 17K and still had poni es to spare. My CofA limit is 20K and I might try that in the soon. > > I haven't been aggressive in leaning the engine=2C but I have seen 155+ K t TAS at 8-10k at 12-13 GPH using 21 square. Over the next couple of weeks I plan to do a few controlled tests to see what the impact of different p ower settings are. > > The engine is very smooth - I have an MT 3 blade prop - one MUST look goo d on the flight line!). Initial indications are the the injectors as provid ed are quite close when leaning but I will have to do the GAMI test to conf irm. > > I am still mastering hot starts but the purge valve makes hot starts fair ly simple. Fortunately I have the fuel return lines already plumbed so I co uld take advantage of this option. > > Over the past 40 hours my oil consumption has been dropping=2C it now see ms to be around 13 hrs / qt and may be lower yet. I am still working out ho w much oil the sump likes - I *think* it is something less than 6.5 qts. Pa rt of my initial oil loss may have been to higher than desired oil levels in the sump and the overall break in process. > > > All that being said=2C Allan and Rhonda Barrett have provided great afte r sales service. Service really matters when problems need to be fixed or q uestions (dumb and otherwise) need to be answered. My experience with both has been great. I always felt that Allan and Rhonda were as engaged with my success as I was was. > > Anyway=2C I just wanted to acknowledge the great product and service that Barrett Precision Engines provides. > > Cheers > > Les > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443156#443156 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil On The Belly
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Jun 06, 2015
Justin There is a difference between Simple Green and Extreme Simple Green. The latter is safe the former not so much. Cheers Led Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 6, 2015, at 10:12 PM, Justin Jones wrote: > > > Be careful with simple green. It is very abrasive and will etch paint and aluminum. We are not allowed to use it on our King Airs, or Lear jets. Someone made the mistake of using it and although it did indeed remove the oil and carbon very well, it etched the paint and the aircraft had to be repainted. > > Dawn with warm water in a squirt bottle can work well also. > > Justin > > > >> On Jun 6, 2015, at 18:44, kearney wrote: >> >> >> Hi >> >> No this is not a kinky post ..... >> >> Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple Green. Until recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I needed to clean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this rediscovered product a go. >> >> It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was deposited during my engine break-in. Much, much nicer than Varsol or avgas. I used only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. >> >> >> Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. >> >> Cheers >> >> Les >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2015
Subject: Re: Oil On The Belly
From: John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com>
Simple Green reformulated a new product "Aviation Approved". It is relabeled for aircraft. The issue of hydrogen embrittlement and swelling of tefzel wiring was corrected. The product Les was referencing to was offered at Oshkosh when the product was released. The regular stuff is still bad. On Jun 6, 2015 9:17 PM, "Justin Jones" wrote: > > Be careful with simple green. It is very abrasive and will etch paint and > aluminum. We are not allowed to use it on our King Airs, or Lear jets. > Someone made the mistake of using it and although it did indeed remove the > oil and carbon very well, it etched the paint and the aircraft had to be > repainted. > > Dawn with warm water in a squirt bottle can work well also. > > Justin > > > > On Jun 6, 2015, at 18:44, kearney wrote: > > > > > > Hi > > > > No this is not a kinky post ..... > > > > Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple > Green. Until recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I > needed to clean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this > rediscovered product a go. > > > > It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was > deposited during my engine break-in. Much, much nicer than Varsol or > avgas. I used only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. > > > > > > Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. > > > > Cheers > > > > Les > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Shout Out to Barrett
From: "RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM" <rv10(at)texasrv10.com>
Date: Jun 07, 2015
Another vote added here. Same experiences with same built up engine except m aybe for the EFII Ignition. 135 hours on the engine and happy as can be. I d id need to rebalance my injectors a bit as I am running the FM300 (not sayin g this is the reason why) but did have an over 1 gal spread in the beginning . Gaylon Koenning > On Jun 6, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Danny Riggs wrote: > > I have the same Barrett engine and prop as you do. I can agree 100% with w hat you've said. Superb engine and superb people! > > > Subject: RV10-List: Shout Out to Barrett > > From: kearney(at)shaw.ca > > Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2015 19:26:09 -0700 > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > > > Hi > > > > Since Feb I have put about 70 hours on my *new* Barrett Precision Engine s IO-540 that has both 9:1 pistons and cold air induction. > > > > Of the 70 hours, 27 were over an eight day trip to eastern Canada from A lberta (for the geographically challenged hat is similar to going from Monta na to New York). > > > > In short I am very, very happy with how the engine has performed in hot a nd cold weather. I recently took the engine up to 17K and still had ponies t o spare. My CofA limit is 20K and I might try that in the soon. > > > > I haven't been aggressive in leaning the engine, but I have seen 155+ Kt TAS at 8-10k at 12-13 GPH using 21 square. Over the next couple of weeks I p lan to do a few controlled tests to see what the impact of different power s ettings are. > > > > The engine is very smooth - I have an MT 3 blade prop - one MUST look go od on the flight line!). Initial indications are the the injectors as provid ed are quite close when leaning but I will have to do the GAMI test to confi rm. > > > > I am still mastering hot starts but the purge valve makes hot starts fai rly simple. Fortunately I have the fuel return lines already plumbed so I co uld take advantage of this option. > > > > Over the past 40 hours my oil consumption has been dropping, it now seem s to be around 13 hrs / qt and may be lower yet. I am still working out how m uch oil the sump likes - I *think* it is something less than 6.5 qts. Part o f my initial oil loss may have been to higher than desired oil levels in the sump and the overall break in process. > > > > > > All that being said, Allan and Rhonda Barrett have provided great after s ales service. Service really matters when problems need to be fixed or quest ions (dumb and otherwise) need to be answered. My experience with both has b een great. I always felt that Allan and Rhonda were as engaged with my succe ss as I was was. > > > > Anyway, I just wanted to acknowledge the great product and service that B arrett Precision Engines provides. > > > > Cheers > > > > Les > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443156#443156 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > > > > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil On The Belly
Date: Jun 07, 2015
You can use Goop and paper towel without the abrasives Does a good job too. do no archive > On Jun 7, 2015, at 1:17 AM, John Cox wrote: > > Simple Green reformulated a new product "Aviation Approved". It is relabeled for aircraft. The issue of hydrogen embrittlement and swelling of tefzel wiring was corrected. The product Les was referencing to was offered at Oshkosh when the product was released. > > The regular stuff is still bad. > > On Jun 6, 2015 9:17 PM, "Justin Jones" > wrote: > > > Be careful with simple green. It is very abrasive and will etch paint and aluminum. We are not allowed to use it on our King Airs, or Lear jets. Someone made the mistake of using it and although it did indeed remove the oil and carbon very well, it etched the paint and the aircraft had to be repainted. > > Dawn with warm water in a squirt bottle can work well also. > > Justin > > > > > On Jun 6, 2015, at 18:44, kearney > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi > > > > No this is not a kinky post ..... > > > > Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple Green. Until recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I needed to clean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this rediscovered product a go. > > > > It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was deposited during my engine break-in. Much, much nicer than Varsol or avgas. I used only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. > > > > > > Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. > > > > Cheers > > > > Les > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========== > -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > FORUMS - > _blank">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > > > <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil On The Belly
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com>
Date: Jun 07, 2015
I use GoJo without the abrasive on the belly. It gets the oil off easily and leaves a cleaned shiny finish. Robert Sent from my iPad > On Jun 7, 2015, at 12:17 AM, John Cox wrote: > > Simple Green reformulated a new product "Aviation Approved". It is relabe led for aircraft. The issue of hydrogen embrittlement and swelling of tefze l wiring was corrected. The product Les was referencing to was offered at O shkosh when the product was released. > > The regular stuff is still bad. > >> On Jun 6, 2015 9:17 PM, "Justin Jones" wrote : > >> >> Be careful with simple green. It is very abrasive and will etch paint and aluminum. We are not allowed to use it on our King Airs, or Lear jets. Some one made the mistake of using it and although it did indeed remove the oil a nd carbon very well, it etched the paint and the aircraft had to be repainte d. >> >> Dawn with warm water in a squirt bottle can work well also. >> >> Justin >> >> >> >> > On Jun 6, 2015, at 18:44, kearney wrote: >> > >> > >> > Hi >> > >> > No this is not a kinky post ..... >> > >> > Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple Gree n. Until recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I needed t o clean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this rediscovered prod uct a go. >> > >> > It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was dep osited during my engine break-in. Much, much nicer than Varsol or avgas. I u sed only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. >> > >> > >> > Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. >> > >> > Cheers >> > >> > Les >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > Read this topic online here: >> > >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> ========== >> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: WTS iPhone 6 $350 128GB S6 Edge $350 128GB Original Unlocked
From: "marquisroy" <marquisroyyd(at)oncyclesports.com>
Date: Jun 07, 2015
We stand behind everything we sell. 100% Genuine Products. You will definitely love what you are about to purchase from us. But If you are not satisfied with your purchase, you can return it For a replacement or refund. Items must be returned within 15days Of purchase. and everything must be in Original box feel free to contact us if you have any questions Contact us info(at)mblexclusively.com Cash on delivery around our Territory only 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 128GB $900 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 64GB $1,050 3 Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 128GB $1,200 10 Samsung Galaxy S6 128GB $2,500 20 Samsung Galaxy S6 128GB $4000 10 Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 64GB $3000 20 Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 64GB $5000 10 Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 128GB $3500 20 Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 128GB $6000 Samsung Galaxy S6 128GB $380 Samsung Galaxy S6 32GB SOLD OUT Samsung Galaxy S6 64GB SOLD OUT Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 32GB SOLD OUT Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 64GB $400 Samsung Galaxy S6 edge 128GB $470 Apple iPhone 6 16GB SOLD OUT Apple iPhone 6 64GB SOLD OUT Apple iPhone 6 128GB $350 Apple iPhone 6 Plus 16GB SOLD OUT Apple iPhone 6 Plus 64GB $420 Apple iPhone 6 Plus 128GB $460 3 Apple iPhone 6 128GB $900 3 Apple iPhone 6 Plus 128GB $1,200 3 Apple iPhone 6 Plus 64GB $1,110 10 Apple iPhone 6 128GB $2,500 20 Apple iPhone 6 128GB $4000 10 Apple iPhone 6 Plus 64GB $3000 20 Apple iPhone 6 Plus 64GB $5000 10 Apple iPhone 6 Plus 128GB 3,500 20 Apple iPhone 6 Plus 128GB $6000 Its free shipping worldwide via FedEx, UPS & DHL and it takes 3days to deliver to any location Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443188#443188 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2015
Subject: Re: Oil On The Belly
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
GoJo original, in a tub, without pumice works great. Getting harder to find as marketeers think everyone wants pumice to scrub their greasy hands. On Sun, Jun 7, 2015 at 7:43 AM, Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote: > I use GoJo without the abrasive on the belly. It gets the oil off easily > and leaves a cleaned shiny finish. Robert > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jun 7, 2015, at 12:17 AM, John Cox wrote: > > Simple Green reformulated a new product "Aviation Approved". It is > relabeled for aircraft. The issue of hydrogen embrittlement and swelling > of tefzel wiring was corrected. The product Les was referencing to was > offered at Oshkosh when the product was released. > > The regular stuff is still bad. > On Jun 6, 2015 9:17 PM, "Justin Jones" wrote: > >> > >> >> Be careful with simple green. It is very abrasive and will etch paint and >> aluminum. We are not allowed to use it on our King Airs, or Lear jets. >> Someone made the mistake of using it and although it did indeed remove the >> oil and carbon very well, it etched the paint and the aircraft had to be >> repainted. >> >> Dawn with warm water in a squirt bottle can work well also. >> >> Justin >> >> >> >> > On Jun 6, 2015, at 18:44, kearney wrote: >> > >> > >> > Hi >> > >> > No this is not a kinky post ..... >> > >> > Years go at KOSH I got a couple of 10 oz samples of Extreme Simple >> Green. Until recently these were lost the chaos that is my garage. As I >> needed to clean my belly (the RV10 that is) I decided to give this >> rediscovered product a go. >> > >> > It did an excellent job of removing a very heavy oil layer that was >> deposited during my engine break-in. Much, much nicer than Varsol or >> avgas. I used only 2/3 of a 10 oz spray bottle to clean my belly. >> > >> > >> > Anyway. this will be my product of choice in the future. >> > >> > Cheers >> > >> > Les >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > Read this topic online here: >> > >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443160#443160 >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> ========== >> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com>
Subject: reminder of window options other than Vans
Date: Jun 09, 2015
This weekend I was reminded that many may have forgotten that there is the option to get better quality parts from http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/ (Desser Tires) than what is in the kits. I was involved with the front windscreen fitting, when my Vans bought one was warped in the bottom corner. They come pretty close to be ready to install without major surgery. The side windows, I hear, fit right in =9Cas is=9D. Also Desser is where Vans gets the tires in the kits. If I were doing all this again I would just order the tire package- http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/rv-10-main-tire-package-special-save-10- two-15-600-6pr-retreads-two-aero-classic-easy-flate-tubes/?page_context= category&faceted_search=0. Better tires, tubes and the same price. I have seen first hand the attention to detail Desser strives for. I gain nothing from this other than knowing that I have told new builders that there are great options, for the same, maybe less, than getting what is in the kits. If you havent bought the windows and windscreen, I guarantee you will not regret going this route, less cutting, shaping and better glass in general. Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: reminder of window options other than Vans
Date: Jun 09, 2015
I can concur about Desser. Good products. Dan From: rv10flyer(at)live.com Subject: RV10-List: reminder of window options other than Vans Date: Tue=2C 9 Jun 2015 07:40:52 -0700 =0A =0A =0A =0A This weekend I was reminded that many may have forgotten that there is the =0A option to get better quality parts from http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/ca tegories/RV%252d10/ =0A (Desser Tires) than what is in the kits.=0A =0A I was involved with the front windscreen fitting=2C when my Vans bought one =0A was warped in the bottom corner. They come pretty close to be ready to inst all =0A without major surgery. The side windows=2C I hear=2C fit right in =93as is =94. Also =0A Desser is where Vans gets the tires in the kits. If I were doing all this a gain =0A I would just order the tire package- http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/rv-10 -main-tire-package-special-save-10-two-15-600-6pr-retreads-two-aero-classic -easy-flate-tubes/?page_context=category&faceted_search=0. =0A Better tires=2C tubes and the same price.=0A =0A I have seen first hand the attention to detail Desser strives for. I gain =0A nothing from this other than knowing that I have told new builders that the re =0A are great options=2C for the same=2C maybe less=2C than getting what is in the =0A kits.=0A =0A If you havent bought the windows and windscreen=2C I guarantee you will not =0A regret going this route=2C less cutting=2C shaping and better glass in =0A general.=0A =0A Pascal =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A ============0A ============0A ============0A ============0A =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2015
Subject: Re: reminder of window options other than Vans
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
I have all the Cee Baileys (Desser) windows in my plane. There was no major cutting required to install, but there was a bit of belt sander trimming on all of the windows to get a perfect fit. From what I've read of the Van's windows, it was quite a bit less work, but none of them just "popped right in". I am very happy with the end results though. On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Pascal wrote: > This weekend I was reminded that many may have forgotten that there is > the option to get better quality parts from > http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/ (Desser Tires) > than what is in the kits. > > I was involved with the front windscreen fitting, when my Vans bought one > was warped in the bottom corner. They come pretty close to be ready to > install without major surgery. The side windows, I hear, fit right in =9Cas > is=9D. Also Desser is where Vans gets the tires in the kits. If I w ere doing > all this again I would just order the tire package- > http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/rv-10-main-tire-package-special-save-10- two-15-600-6pr-retreads-two-aero-classic-easy-flate-tubes/?page_context=c ategory&faceted_search=0. > Better tires, tubes and the same price. > > I have seen first hand the attention to detail Desser strives for. I gain > nothing from this other than knowing that I have told new builders that > there are great options, for the same, maybe less, than getting what is i n > the kits. > > If you havent bought the windows and windscreen, I guarantee you will not > regret going this route, less cutting, shaping and better glass in genera l. > > Pascal > > * > =========== onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> =========== =========== om/contribution> =========== > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2015
Subject: Re: reminder of window options other than Vans
From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com>
As someone who just installed the rear windows, they were a major PIA. I don't know if they were easier than Van's but I had real issues getting them installed. The curve on the plexi did not match the curve of the cabin top and required a lot of force to keep them flush. I ended up having to use ratchet straps and gorilla tape to keep them somewhat in place. Even with all of that, they ended up somewhat proud on some of the edges. I have dry fit the windshield and have a 1/2" gap between the cabin top vertical flange as well as a gap between the upper fuselage and the plex in several places. None of these items are insurmountable, but they have definitely required much more work to get them to fit than I had thought. Shannon Hicks On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Ed Kranz wrote: > I have all the Cee Baileys (Desser) windows in my plane. There was no > major cutting required to install, but there was a bit of belt sander > trimming on all of the windows to get a perfect fit. From what I've read of > the Van's windows, it was quite a bit less work, but none of them just > "popped right in". I am very happy with the end results though. > > On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Pascal wrote: > >> This weekend I was reminded that many may have forgotten that there is >> the option to get better quality parts from >> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/ (Desser Tires) >> than what is in the kits. >> >> I was involved with the front windscreen fitting, when my Vans bought on e >> was warped in the bottom corner. They come pretty close to be ready to >> install without major surgery. The side windows, I hear, fit right in =9Cas >> is=9D. Also Desser is where Vans gets the tires in the kits. If I were doing >> all this again I would just order the tire package- >> http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/rv-10-main-tire-package-special-save-10 -two-15-600-6pr-retreads-two-aero-classic-easy-flate-tubes/?page_context= category&faceted_search=0. >> Better tires, tubes and the same price. >> >> I have seen first hand the attention to detail Desser strives for. I gai n >> nothing from this other than knowing that I have told new builders that >> there are great options, for the same, maybe less, than getting what is in >> the kits. >> >> If you havent bought the windows and windscreen, I guarantee you will no t >> regret going this route, less cutting, shaping and better glass in gener al. >> >> Pascal >> >> * >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> * >> >> > * > =========== onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> =========== =========== om/contribution> =========== > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: reminder of window options other than Vans
Date: Jun 09, 2015
I ended up using small holes in the glass and put clecos to hold. They got filled in of course during the final finishing. Date: Tue=2C 9 Jun 2015 10:56:35 -0500 Subject: Re: RV10-List: reminder of window options other than Vans From: civeng123(at)gmail.com As someone who just installed the rear windows=2C they were a major PIA. I don't know if they were easier than Van's but I had real issues getting th em installed. The curve on the plexi did not match the curve of the cabin t op and required a lot of force to keep them flush. I ended up having to us e ratchet straps and gorilla tape to keep them somewhat in place. Even wit h all of that=2C they ended up somewhat proud on some of the edges. I have dry fit the windshield and have a 1/2" gap between the cabin top ver tical flange as well as a gap between the upper fuselage and the plex in se veral places. None of these items are insurmountable=2C but they have definitely required much more work to get them to fit than I had thought. Shannon Hicks On Tue=2C Jun 9=2C 2015 at 10:12 AM=2C Ed Kranz wrote: I have all the Cee Baileys (Desser) windows in my plane. There was no major cutting required to install=2C but there was a bit of belt sander trimming on all of the windows to get a perfect fit. From what I've read of the Van 's windows=2C it was quite a bit less work=2C but none of them just "popped right in". I am very happy with the end results though. On Tue=2C Jun 9=2C 2015 at 9:40 AM=2C Pascal wrote: =0A =0A =0A =0A This weekend I was reminded that many may have forgotten that there is the =0A option to get better quality parts from http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/ca tegories/RV%252d10/ =0A (Desser Tires) than what is in the kits.=0A =0A I was involved with the front windscreen fitting=2C when my Vans bought one =0A was warped in the bottom corner. They come pretty close to be ready to inst all =0A without major surgery. The side windows=2C I hear=2C fit right in =93as is =94. Also =0A Desser is where Vans gets the tires in the kits. If I were doing all this a gain =0A I would just order the tire package- http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/rv-10 -main-tire-package-special-save-10-two-15-600-6pr-retreads-two-aero-classic -easy-flate-tubes/?page_context=category&faceted_search=0. =0A Better tires=2C tubes and the same price.=0A =0A I have seen first hand the attention to detail Desser strives for. I gain =0A nothing from this other than knowing that I have told new builders that the re =0A are great options=2C for the same=2C maybe less=2C than getting what is in the =0A kits.=0A =0A If you havent bought the windows and windscreen=2C I guarantee you will not =0A regret going this route=2C less cutting=2C shaping and better glass in =0A general.=0A =0A Pascal =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A tp://forums.matronics.com=0A _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A tp://forums.matronics.com=0A _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A ============0A ============0A ============0A ============0A =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: reminder of window options other than Vans
Date: Jun 09, 2015
There is usually a flat spot on the door frame that needs to be built up to f ollow the natural arc of the window and door. I fabricated "finger" out of aluminum strips and cleco'd them to the cabin c over. I would be hesitant drilling holes in the windows and filling due t o potential cracking and crazing issues. Sent from my iPhone On Jun 9, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Danny Riggs wrote: I ended up using small holes in the glass and put clecos to hold. They got f illed in of course during the final finishing. Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2015 10:56:35 -0500 Subject: Re: RV10-List: reminder of window options other than Vans From: civeng123(at)gmail.com As someone who just installed the rear windows, they were a major PIA. I do n't know if they were easier than Van's but I had real issues getting them i nstalled. The curve on the plexi did not match the curve of the cabin top an d required a lot of force to keep them flush. I ended up having to use ratc het straps and gorilla tape to keep them somewhat in place. Even with all o f that, they ended up somewhat proud on some of the edges. I have dry fit the windshield and have a 1/2" gap between the cabin top vert ical flange as well as a gap between the upper fuselage and the plex in seve ral places. None of these items are insurmountable, but they have definitely required mu ch more work to get them to fit than I had thought. Shannon Hicks On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Ed Kranz wrote: I have all the Cee Baileys (Desser) windows in my plane. There was no major c utting required to install, but there was a bit of belt sander trimming on a ll of the windows to get a perfect fit. =46rom what I've read of the Van's w indows, it was quite a bit less work, but none of them just "popped right in ". I am very happy with the end results though. On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Pascal wrote: This weekend I was reminded that many may have forgotten that there is the o ption to get better quality parts from http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/cate gories/RV%252d10/ (Desser Tires) than what is in the kits. I was involved with the front windscreen fitting, when my Vans bought one wa s warped in the bottom corner. They come pretty close to be ready to install without major surgery. The side windows, I hear, fit right in =9Cas i s=9D. Also Desser is where Vans gets the tires in the kits. If I were d oing all this again I would just order the tire package- http://www.vansairc rafttires.com/rv-10-main-tire-package-special-save-10-two-15-600-6pr-retread s-two-aero-classic-easy-flate-tubes/?page_context=category&faceted_search= 0. Better tires, tubes and the same price. I have seen first hand the attention to detail Desser strives for. I gain no thing from this other than knowing that I have told new builders that there a re great options, for the same, maybe less, than getting what is in the kits . If you havent bought the windows and windscreen, I guarantee you will not re gret going this route, less cutting, shaping and better glass in general. Pascal get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2015
Subject: Re: reminder of window options other than Vans
From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com>
This was not related to the flat spot and was about equal on both rear windows. When I place them, the top of the glass (or the bottom if I held it by the top) was a good 4 inches from touching the window flange. SH On Jun 9, 2015 11:46 AM, "Bob Leffler" wrote: > There is usually a flat spot on the door frame that needs to be built up > to follow the natural arc of the window and door. > > I fabricated "finger" out of aluminum strips and cleco'd them to the cabi n > cover. I would be hesitant drilling holes in the windows and filling d ue > to potential cracking and crazing issues. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 9, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Danny Riggs wrote: > > I ended up using small holes in the glass and put clecos to hold. They go t > filled in of course during the final finishing. > > ------------------------------ > Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2015 10:56:35 -0500 > Subject: Re: RV10-List: reminder of window options other than Vans > From: civeng123(at)gmail.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > As someone who just installed the rear windows, they were a major PIA. I > don't know if they were easier than Van's but I had real issues getting > them installed. The curve on the plexi did not match the curve of the cab in > top and required a lot of force to keep them flush. I ended up having to > use ratchet straps and gorilla tape to keep them somewhat in place. Even > with all of that, they ended up somewhat proud on some of the edges. > > I have dry fit the windshield and have a 1/2" gap between the cabin top > vertical flange as well as a gap between the upper fuselage and the plex in > several places. > > None of these items are insurmountable, but they have definitely required > much more work to get them to fit than I had thought. > > Shannon Hicks > > > On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Ed Kranz wrote: > > I have all the Cee Baileys (Desser) windows in my plane. There was no > major cutting required to install, but there was a bit of belt sander > trimming on all of the windows to get a perfect fit. From what I've read of > the Van's windows, it was quite a bit less work, but none of them just > "popped right in". I am very happy with the end results though. > > On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Pascal wrote: > > This weekend I was reminded that many may have forgotten that there is > the option to get better quality parts from > http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/categories/RV%252d10/ (Desser Tires) > than what is in the kits. > > I was involved with the front windscreen fitting, when my Vans bought one > was warped in the bottom corner. They come pretty close to be ready to > install without major surgery. The side windows, I hear, fit right in =9Cas > is=9D. Also Desser is where Vans gets the tires in the kits. If I w ere doing > all this again I would just order the tire package- > http://www.vansaircrafttires.com/rv-10-main-tire-package-special-save-10- two-15-600-6pr-retreads-two-aero-classic-easy-flate-tubes/?page_context=c ategory&faceted_search=0. > Better tires, tubes and the same price. > > I have seen first hand the attention to detail Desser strives for. I gain > nothing from this other than knowing that I have told new builders that > there are great options, for the same, maybe less, than getting what is i n > the kits. > > If you havent bought the windows and windscreen, I guarantee you will not > regret going this route, less cutting, shaping and better glass in genera l. > > Pascal > > * > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > * > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > * > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > * > > D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D > List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D > //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> > D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D > ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D > > * > > * > =========== onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> =========== =========== om/contribution> =========== > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Registration form 8050-1
Date: Jun 09, 2015
I've got my bill of sale in hand from Vans and am filling out form 8050-1 to send in to the FAA. What, if any, considerations should I make before filling in the blanks? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Westcott Press 1121 Isabel Street Burbank, CA 91506 jeff(at)westcottpress.com 818-861-7300 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2015
Subject: Re: Registration form 8050-1
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
I just finished my registration. Some things: You are the kit manufacturer. So in that box, I put Kranz, Edward J RV-10 Make sure your name is listed exactly how it is on the 8050-2 from Vans. Mine was LAST, FIRST MI. Make sure to print your name below your signature. And then don't forget the 8050-88, which needs to be notarized. On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 3:52 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > I've got my bill of sale in hand from Vans and am filling out form 8050-1 > to send in to the FAA. What, if any, considerations should I make before > filling in the blanks? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > Westcott Press > 1121 Isabel Street > Burbank, CA 91506 > jeff(at)westcottpress.com > 818-861-7300 > > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Registration form 8050-1
Date: Jun 09, 2015
I just went thru this. They are very particular about how to do it. Follow t his guide exactly: http://www.ruleaviation.com/forms/8050_1%20rev%204.pdf It worked perfectly for me. Justin > On Jun 9, 2015, at 12:52, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > I've got my bill of sale in hand from Vans and am filling out form 8050-1 t o send in to the FAA. What, if any, considerations should I make before fill ing in the blanks? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > Westcott Press > 1121 Isabel Street > Burbank, CA 91506 > jeff(at)westcottpress.com > 818-861-7300 > > > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2015
Subject: Re: Registration form 8050-1
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Justin, The manufacturer field on that example form is incorrect for our aircraft. It might be accurate for an powered parachute like a SixChuter, but for E-AB, the manufacturer is the builder's name. See Mel's comment here: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=29321 Or, you can look up the registration of other RV10 builders. Ed On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 4:27 PM, Justin Jones wrote: > I just went thru this. They are very particular about how to do it. Follow > this guide exactly: > > http://www.ruleaviation.com/forms/8050_1%20rev%204.pdf > > It worked perfectly for me. > > Justin > > > On Jun 9, 2015, at 12:52, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > I've got my bill of sale in hand from Vans and am filling out form 8050-1 > to send in to the FAA. What, if any, considerations should I make before > filling in the blanks? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > Westcott Press > 1121 Isabel Street > Burbank, CA 91506 > jeff(at)westcottpress.com > 818-861-7300 > > > * > > D============================================ > List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > D============================================ > //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> > D============================================ > ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > D============================================ > > * > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Registration form 8050-1
Date: Jun 09, 2015
Thanks for catching that Ed. I missed that. You are correct. Justin > On Jun 9, 2015, at 21:17, Ed Kranz wrote: > > Justin, > > The manufacturer field on that example form is incorrect for our aircraft. It might be accurate for an powered parachute like a SixChuter, but for E-A B, the manufacturer is the builder's name. > > See Mel's comment here: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.p hp?t=29321 > > Or, you can look up the registration of other RV10 builders. > > Ed > >> On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 4:27 PM, Justin Jones wrote: >> I just went thru this. They are very particular about how to do it. Follo w this guide exactly: >> >> http://www.ruleaviation.com/forms/8050_1%20rev%204.pdf >> >> It worked perfectly for me. >> >> Justin >> >> >> >>> On Jun 9, 2015, at 12:52, Jeff Carpenter wrote: >>> >>> I've got my bill of sale in hand from Vans and am filling out form 8050- 1 to send in to the FAA. What, if any, considerations should I make before f illing in the blanks? >>> >>> Jeff Carpenter >>> 40304 >>> >>> >>> Westcott Press >>> 1121 Isabel Street >>> Burbank, CA 91506 >>> jeff(at)westcottpress.com >>> 818-861-7300 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >>> //forums.matronics.com >>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >>> >> >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2015
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Baggage Area Weight
Bob, I was cleaning out old email and noticed your message. Did you ever get an answer? I know I have had my 200lb carcass back there working in the tail cone and never caused any problem with the baggage floor. Kelly On 2/15/2013 2:45 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > The paperwork from Vans that came with my final kit recommended a maximum of 150 lbs in the baggage area. > > But I see Vans' web site now says 100 lbs maximum. > > Anyone know when this change happened? Or why? > > Bob > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394373#394373 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Baggage Area Weight
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jun 10, 2015
No, I never did get an answer. 200 lbs crawling around is no issue. Remember the floor has to hold 3.8 x 100 (or is it 150?) pounds, 3.8 being the max allowed g loading. I wonder if the change was just because Vans was worried that people would just shove 150 lbs back there without doing a cg calculation(!). With adults in the back seats and low fuel, I could get aft of the aft limit. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443358#443358 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2015
Subject: Nose gear leg cutout length?
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
I lengthened the nose gear leg cutout in the bottom of my cowl to make it easier to remove and replace the lower cowl. I want to construct an aluminum panel to cover the cowl material I removed. Can someone tell me the distance between the rear of the cowl and the front of the cutout? I forgot to measure it before removing material from the cowl. Thanks.. -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com>
Subject: Gascolator locations
Date: Jun 10, 2015
Hi everyone. I'm in Canada, and stuck with an obsolete regulation that we require gascolators in homebuilt planes. Though they're pretty much pointless in a low-wing fuel injected plane like the RV-10, I have no choice but to put one in. I've done as much research as I can in trying to decide exactly where would be the "best" place to do so, but wanted to post my observations and thoughts here in case anyone can find something I've overlooked, or can assuage any of the potential pitfalls I see in different scenarios due to your own experience. No matter where I install it, the specific gascolator I am considering is the Andair GAS375 - as it seems to be one of the better constructed. I see three locations where they can be installed - in the wing roots, in the tunnel, or on the firewall. Firewall: Advantage - relatively straightforward to install there. Disadvantages - If an O-ring or something starts to leak, it would spray fuel around the engine compartment under pressure (are potential leaks of this sort a real possibility to consider?). That can't be a good thing. Also, under the hot cowling, would it cause an increased potential for vapour lock? It may also not be the true "lowest" point in the fuel system, which the regulations also specify. Tunnel: Two options here - adding it as another device in the tunnel, or replacing the fuel filter already there with the gascolator. On first glance, replacing the fuel filter seems to be the way to go since the addition of the gascolator wouldn't be adding a new point of failure - just replacing one. Though when I checked with Van's about this, they recommended against it - they would rather see the recommended filter still in place, and the gascolator added elsewhere. In any case, whether adding the gascolator on its own, or replacing the existing filter, an advantage would be that it should be less likely to contribute to vapour lock, provided that tunnel heat isn't excessive. Disadvantages - there is still the possibility of spraying fuel under pressure if it were to fail, and in the tunnel seems just as bad (if not worse) than the engine compartment. Secondly, the fuel drain for the gascolator would be in the vicinity of the exhaust pipes. I've had first-hand experience with fuel tank drains leaking and dribbling due to debris that ended up getting into the seal. If it were to dribble fuel into the hot exhaust gases, again that can't be a good thing. Wing roots: Advantage - they'd be cool out there so wouldn't contribute to vapour lock. Also, if they started leaking (either through O-rings failing or the drain dribbling), it's less of an issue. Plus, since there would have to be two, if one did start to leak in a spectacular fashion, there is the redundancy of two, so at least the fuel in one of the wings would stick around. And they wouldn't be pressurized there, so leaks should be less dramatic. Disadvantages - Cost would be twice as much, since two would be needed. There would be no way to shut off the fuel prior to the gascolators for cleaning the filter, so the tanks would have to be drained to do so (I wouldn't want to introduce yet another point of failure by installing shutoff valves before them) Also, the gascolator would have fuel sucked through it rather than pushed through it, so it would be under a small amount of negative pressure rather than positive pressure (more so when the filter starts to get dirty) - would this cause potential problems with air possibly be introduced through the drain port? Or is the seal and spring on the drain port more than strong enough to maintain a seal against the outside even when being sucked up with the negative pressure? I hate having to install a gascolator in the first place, and it doesn't help to have not come up with a clear winner with regards to location. Any advice anybody could give would be greatly appreciated. Am I overlooking anything, or equally, overstating the likelihood of certain failure scenarios? Thanks! Dan --- Dan Charrois President, Syzygy Research & Technology Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Gascolator locations
Date: Jun 10, 2015
Before I understood gascolators I put an Andair gascolator on my first plane, an RV-8A with an IO-360 engine. I mounted it using a piece of angle on the lower left corner of the firewall such that a push drain valve (identical to the ones on the wing tanks) on the bottom of the gascolator could be accessed with the cowl on (the cowl had a 1/2" hole for this purpose). The angle held the gascolator off the firewall enough such that the drain valve was forward of the lower cowl attach hinge. The bottom of the drain valve was just inside the cowl so a standard sump glass with a sump rod could sump the gascolator. 12 years of flying and I never had an issue or a problem with vapor lock. Two other recommendations: - plumb the fuel system with the inline filter in the tunnel per plans. While the filter in the Andair gascolator meets the specs for the fuel system, it is after the fuel pump and small compared to the inline fuel filter. - get an Andair gascolator - if you have to have it then get one that is well made (so you can worry less about leaks and such) Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Charrois Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 4:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Gascolator locations Hi everyone. I'm in Canada, and stuck with an obsolete regulation that we require gascolators in homebuilt planes. Though they're pretty much pointless in a low-wing fuel injected plane like the RV-10, I have no choice but to put one in. I've done as much research as I can in trying to decide exactly where would be the "best" place to do so, but wanted to post my observations and thoughts here in case anyone can find something I've overlooked, or can assuage any of the potential pitfalls I see in different scenarios due to your own experience. No matter where I install it, the specific gascolator I am considering is the Andair GAS375 - as it seems to be one of the better constructed. I see three locations where they can be installed - in the wing roots, in the tunnel, or on the firewall. Firewall: Advantage - relatively straightforward to install there. Disadvantages - If an O-ring or something starts to leak, it would spray fuel around the engine compartment under pressure (are potential leaks of this sort a real possibility to consider?). That can't be a good thing. Also, under the hot cowling, would it cause an increased potential for vapour lock? It may also not be the true "lowest" point in the fuel system, which the regulations also specify. Tunnel: Two options here - adding it as another device in the tunnel, or replacing the fuel filter already there with the gascolator. On first glance, replacing the fuel filter seems to be the way to go since the addition of the gascolator wouldn't be adding a new point of failure - just replacing one. Though when I checked with Van's about this, they recommended against it - they would rather see the recommended filter still in place, and the gascolator added elsewhere. In any case, whether adding the gascolator on its own, or replacing the existing filter, an advantage would be that it should be less likely to contribute to vapour lock, provided that tunnel heat isn't excessive. Disadvantages - there is still the possibility of spraying fuel under pressure if it were to fail, and in the tunnel seems just as bad (if not worse) than the engine compartment. Secondly, the fuel drain for the gascolator would be in the vicinity of the exhaust pipes. I've had first-hand ex! perience with fuel tank drains leaking and dribbling due to debris that ended up getting into the seal. If it were to dribble fuel into the hot exhaust gases, again that can't be a good thing. Wing roots: Advantage - they'd be cool out there so wouldn't contribute to vapour lock. Also, if they started leaking (either through O-rings failing or the drain dribbling), it's less of an issue. Plus, since there would have to be two, if one did start to leak in a spectacular fashion, there is the redundancy of two, so at least the fuel in one of the wings would stick around. And they wouldn't be pressurized there, so leaks should be less dramatic. Disadvantages - Cost would be twice as much, since two would be needed. There would be no way to shut off the fuel prior to the gascolators for cleaning the filter, so the tanks would have to be drained to do so (I wouldn't want to introduce yet another point of failure by installing shutoff valves before them) Also, the gascolator would have fuel sucked through it rather than pushed through it, so it would be under a small amount of negative pressure rather than positive pressure (more so when the filter starts to get d! irty) - would this cause potential problems with air possibly be introduced through the drain port? Or is the seal and spring on the drain port more than strong enough to maintain a seal against the outside even when being sucked up with the negative pressure? I hate having to install a gascolator in the first place, and it doesn't help to have not come up with a clear winner with regards to location. Any advice anybody could give would be greatly appreciated. Am I overlooking anything, or equally, overstating the likelihood of certain failure scenarios? Thanks! Dan --- Dan Charrois President, Syzygy Research & Technology Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gascolator locations
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Jun 10, 2015
Hi Dan I have felt your pain..... This is what I installed prior to getting TC permission to ditch my gascolators. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/usher.php I used these as they were a) cheap, b) simple and c) easy to install. I still have my mounting brackets - they are your if you want them. IMNHO opinion, gascolators serve no purpose in a low wing a/c unless the laws of physics are repealed and water can flow up hill Gascolators, in our application function as little more than gas bombs when placed in high heat areas or as a source of vapour lock when placed on the suction side of the fuel pumps Anyway, what I did to get past the MDRA inspection was to install the gascolators in the wing roots. Using the user gascolators I installed plugs, not quick drains as I did not want risk the suction lifting the drain and introducing air into the fuel system. I mounted the plugs so I had access to them under neath the wing through the bottom wing root faring. I never planned to remove the plugs as any water would be removed using the tank sumps, which were the lowest point in the fuel sumps. But I did have access to them which met the requirement of the CARS exemption that MDRA requires you meet. I would not place the gascolator on the firewall as it only serves to introduce a volume of fuel in an aluminum container that would easily melt if there was an engine fire. For similar reasons, I would not use the tunnel. If I could I would have kept all fuel lines out of the cockpit but in the -10 that is not possible. Fire in the cockpit is the only thing about flying that scares me. As the Usher gascolators have screens, you could use them as as additional fuel filters located in the wing roots. I would not use quick drains on them for the reason noted above. Cheers Les Postscript for those south of the 49th parallel.... In Canada, amateur built aircraft are inspected by MD-RA, an agency delegated inspection authority by Transport Canada (our FAA equivalent). There inspection process is based on Appendix A of CARS 549.01. This appendix exempts amateur built aircraft from the requirements of 549.01 but does require installation of a gascolator. It would be interesting to see what MD-RA would do if confronted with an electric aircraft - how would you install a gascolator and where? When I swapped my Subaru engine for an IO-540, I was reinspected and my CofA reissued. In this case the inspection was done by Transport Canada and not MD-RA. For this inspection, I conformed my a/c to the requirements of CARS 549.01 and not the exemption. As a result, I was not required to have gascolators as they are only required by the exemption. Unfortunately this option is not available to builders getting their initial inspection done as all initial inspections are done by MD-RA and they only use the exemption. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443370#443370 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Nose gear leg cutout length?
Date: Jun 10, 2015
This is what I did for my 3 bladed prop. The measurments are from the nose scoop heading aft even though the pics imply it was measured from the rear. I still have to hold the tail down to let the gear leg drop as much as possible and then protect the prop edges as I remove the lower cowl. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 1:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Nose gear leg cutout length? I lengthened the nose gear leg cutout in the bottom of my cowl to make it easier to remove and replace the lower cowl. I want to construct an aluminum panel to cover the cowl material I removed. Can someone tell me the distance between the rear of the cowl and the front of the cutout? I forgot to measure it before removing material from the cowl. Thanks.. -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2015
Subject: Re: Nose gear leg cutout length?
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Awesome... thank you! On Wed, Jun 10, 2015 at 4:43 PM, Albert wrote: > This is what I did for my 3 bladed prop. The measurments are from the nose > scoop heading aft even though the pics imply it was measured from the rear. > I still have to hold the tail down to let the gear leg drop as much as > possible and then protect the prop edges as I remove the lower cowl. > > Albert Gardner > > N991RV > > Yuma, AZ > > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kochman > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 10, 2015 1:11 PM > *To:* rv10-list > *Subject:* RV10-List: Nose gear leg cutout length? > > > I lengthened the nose gear leg cutout in the bottom of my cowl to make it > easier to remove and replace the lower cowl. I want to construct an > aluminum panel to cover the cowl material I removed. Can someone tell me > the distance between the rear of the cowl and the front of the cutout? I > forgot to measure it before removing material from the cowl. Thanks.. > > > -Rob > > > -- > > Rob Kochman > RV-10 Flying since March 2011 > > Woodinville, WA > > http://kochman.net/N819K > > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List * > > *http://forums.matronics.com * > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution * > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Baggage Area Weight
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 10, 2015
I can't remember where, but I am absolutely sure that I have seen both 100 and 150 in official Van's Aircraft produced documentia. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Flew May 10 2014 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443381#443381 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Baggage Area Weight
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jun 10, 2015
After my first post, I looked thru my paperwork. The packet I got with the final kit - the section on measuring weight, moment arms, and cg - is where the 150 lb number is printed. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443385#443385 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Baggage Area Weight
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Jun 10, 2015
My empty cg is pretty far forward. If I were carrying bags of sand, I could put 250 lbs in the baggage area and still be within cg limits - as long as no one sat in the rear seats. Although it's hard to imagine doing that. As I recall I put 150 lbs back there, and more sand bags in the rear seats, during phase 1 testing, to get the cg close to the aft limit. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443387#443387 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2015
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Gascolator locations
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May 10, 2015 - Present

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-kn