RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ln
February 02, 2016 - - - - , 20-
First of all, did you open the hood and look inside the boxes? Most people do not.
For example, the Dynon uses pitot data to obtain the attitude solution. If
it auto-detects pitot failure (notice the 'if') it will use gps data instead.
But if you lose both you lose your attitude indicator. Odds are low, but are
you happy with that? GRT will still show attitude in this circumstance; Garmin
I don't know.
Other stuff:
I fear single point failures taking out everything, so my philosophy is to have
boxes that will work together but can stand alone.
3 attitude sources - GRT, TRIO, Dynon D6 - all independent.
Battery back up
My touch screen experience is limited to the GTN series. I dislike it intensely,
even in smooth air I hit the wrong thing! But maybe I just need more practice.
But I like knobs or buttons.
Agree with others - 2 screens are good, a third is only useful for a right seat
person.
ADSB. For x/c get ADSB-in now, for the wx. You will want ADSB-out by 2020 because
the -10 flies well above 10,000', so it can be now or later. But either way
think about it now, because it feeds back into your choices. e.g., there are
a number of options that will display on GRT equipment; with Dynon or Garmin you
have fewer, and, more expensive choices. If buying all new avionics as you
are, with an ifr gps navigator, the mode S-ES route may be less expensive than
UAT. Look carefully at the numbers and trade offs.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452534#452534
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS system (was "and brand") |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
My 10 has 3 screens. The right screen is for the co-pilot. It's out of
reach of the pilot for standard practical operation. I installed it because
I want my son and wife to be able to practice flying with instrumentation
in front of them, and also be able to check out the
map/weather/traffic/AOPA airport directory without impacting my use of the
PFD and MFD.
With the G3X Touch, I think it would be possible to fly with a single in
front of the pilot, but as I'm currently getting my instrument rating, it's
FANTASTIC to have the PFD full screen with upcoming waypoints in the inset
window, and the MFD split screen between the approach plate on the left and
moving map on the right. I will also split the PFD to pull up info like the
airport information page, or the nearest frequencies page.
The functionality of this setup is incredible, even coming from a G1000 182!
So my OPINION is that VFR, 1 screen could get you by. IFR, I think 2
screens is far more practical. 3 screens is just fun, or if you want to
have someone who wants to "pilot" from the right seat from time to time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS system (was "and brand") |
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
I have a G900X from Stein installed in 2011 and have not looked back. Today I
would probably choose a dual screen G3X panel.
That being said, I use an iPad mini with Stratus mounted to the center support
bar for sectional and other info.
A third screen is very nice to have and the iPad does that job well.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
> On Feb 2, 2016, at 5:03 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
>
> My 10 has 3 screens. The right screen is for the co-pilot. It's out of reach
of the pilot for standard practical operation. I installed it because I want my
son and wife to be able to practice flying with instrumentation in front of
them, and also be able to check out the map/weather/traffic/AOPA airport directory
without impacting my use of the PFD and MFD.
>
> With the G3X Touch, I think it would be possible to fly with a single in front
of the pilot, but as I'm currently getting my instrument rating, it's FANTASTIC
to have the PFD full screen with upcoming waypoints in the inset window, and
the MFD split screen between the approach plate on the left and moving map
on the right. I will also split the PFD to pull up info like the airport information
page, or the nearest frequencies page.
>
> The functionality of this setup is incredible, even coming from a G1000 182!
>
> So my OPINION is that VFR, 1 screen could get you by. IFR, I think 2 screens
is far more practical. 3 screens is just fun, or if you want to have someone who
wants to "pilot" from the right seat from time to time.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS system (was "and brand") |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I can see the juices flowing in your CFII's mind as to what items to
fail on you. Say 2nd screen, GPS and whatever it takes to reduce you to
one VHF nav, without moving map.
On 2/2/2016 4:03 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
> My 10 has 3 screens.
> With the G3X Touch, I think it would be possible to fly with a single in
> front of the pilot, but as I'm currently getting my instrument rating,
> it's FANTASTIC to have the PFD full screen with upcoming waypoints in
> the inset window, and the MFD split screen between the approach plate on
> the left and moving map on the right. I will also split the PFD to pull
> up info like the airport information page, or the nearest frequencies page.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Thanks Les - it was long enough ago I forgot most of the details but
that's what I did. The heli-coil touch was good engineering. Without
it, I'm sure things would have stripped.
Extending to just below the surface is the showplane approach - very
nice. The extension with large washer approach is the 'ham handed tow
bar handling' approach. Both better than stock I'd guess.
On 2/2/2016 3:41 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> HI
>
> A few years ago there was a bolt / helicoil / tap kit that was making its way
from builder to builder.
>
> The intent was to use heilcoils in the bolt holes as the raw aluminum would eventually
give way. The bolts were longer so that the head protruded out of the
pants. A large washer was placed under the head so the tow bar never was inside
the wheel pant. This prevents wheel pant damage if the tow bar slips off.
AT least only paint gets scratched and the F/G doesn't get This up.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452533#452533
>
>
---
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS system (was "and brand") |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I did the central 3rd screen thing combined with a Stein canted center
panel so it's turned towards the pilot. They are 3 GRT Hx screens and
each can do any and all things but I use the center display as a MFD
type. Looks great, works well but.....
...after flying behind it and with the opportunity to redo - I'd mount
that 3rd screed right up against the pilot screen. There's no reason to
spread such information out for the pilot. It looks better centered and
separated, it performs better clustered and optimally centered for the
pilot. And one big well designed screen should trump 2.
Bill "personally, I really like the way it looks" Watson
On 2/2/2016 3:19 PM, Stein Bruch wrote:
> .The 3^rd screen can be a nice central MFD type display for autopilot
> controls, engine info, vertical power info, flight planning, etc..,
> but again a very personal thing.
>
>
---
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Do you have any pictures of this setup please Les?
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 3 Feb 2016, at 07:11, kearney wrote:
>
>
> HI
>
> A few years ago there was a bolt / helicoil / tap kit that was making its way
from builder to builder.
>
> The intent was to use heilcoils in the bolt holes as the raw aluminum would eventually
give way. The bolts were longer so that the head protruded out of the
pants. A large washer was placed under the head so the tow bar never was inside
the wheel pant. This prevents wheel pant damage if the tow bar slips off.
AT least only paint gets scratched and the F/G doesn't get This up.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452533#452533
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Here is a photo of how I extended the tow pins and used chrome hex bolts. I also
used a helicoil for the attachment threads
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452562#452562
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2987_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2987_396.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
I took the Bogart tow bar, cut off the female pickup ends, and welded on pi
n tabs that would go inside the allen bolts.=C2- That way no other tow ba
r will work.=C2- Disadvantage = no other tow bar will work.=C2- Advan
tage = the holes required in the wheel pants are smaller, and no one else
will try and use their tow bar to move my plane.=C2- If I trust them to
move it, I will leave mine with the plane.=C2- 6.5 years, 800 hours, no p
roblem.
Don Mc
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 1:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Tow Bar
Do you have any pictures of this setup please Les?
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 3 Feb 2016, at 07:11, kearney wrote:
>
>
> HI
>
> A few years ago there was a bolt / helicoil / tap kit that was making its
way from builder to builder.
>
> The intent was to use heilcoils in the bolt holes as the raw aluminum wou
ld eventually give way. The bolts were longer so that the head protruded ou
t of the pants. A large washer was placed under the head so the tow bar nev
er was inside the wheel pant. This prevents wheel pant damage if the tow ba
r slips off. AT least only paint gets scratched and the F/G doesn't get Thi
s up.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452533#452533
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
S -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
I've managed to run into the control stick slop that a handful of other
people have reported. It looks like the bushing I have is undersized or
the bell crank hole is over sized. I haven't dug far enough into to
determine which it is, but I'm betting it's the welded part (IE: Bell
Crank).
I've thought about building a custom bushing, but thought I'd order one
more set from Vans and be extremely careful in prepping it, to remove as
much slop as possible before going any further down the path.
Looking on Vans site this evening, I can't find that bushing anywhere for
purchase. It's labeled as BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313.
Have any of you successfully ordered as 2nd set from Vans? Just wondering
it it could be hiding under a different stock number.
Thanks
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM" <rv10(at)texasrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Thick/thin washer for the slop can help. A pain to insert but may work for your
case.
Gaylon Koenning
> On Feb 6, 2016, at 20:33, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I've managed to run into the control stick slop that a handful of other people
have reported. It looks like the bushing I have is undersized or the bell
crank hole is over sized. I haven't dug far enough into to determine which it
is, but I'm betting it's the welded part (IE: Bell Crank).
>
> I've thought about building a custom bushing, but thought I'd order one more
set from Vans and be extremely careful in prepping it, to remove as much slop
as possible before going any further down the path.
>
> Looking on Vans site this evening, I can't find that bushing anywhere for purchase.
It's labeled as BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313.
>
> Have any of you successfully ordered as 2nd set from Vans? Just wondering it
it could be hiding under a different stock number.
>
> Thanks
> Phil
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Are you talking about the OD of the bushing being undersized? I have seen that
before, although usually stick slop is because the bushing is too long and the
stick base can slide forward/back on the bushing. In this case, just shorten
the busing. If it's the bushing OD, then the only option is to get a bigger OD
on the bushing or a new stick base and hope it fits tighter.
In use, you don't really notice it in flight in my experience, although any excess
movement will cause wear in the long run.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 7, 2016, at 6:12 AM, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM wrote:
>
>
> Thick/thin washer for the slop can help. A pain to insert but may work for your
case.
>
> Gaylon Koenning
>
>
>> On Feb 6, 2016, at 20:33, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>> I've managed to run into the control stick slop that a handful of other people
have reported. It looks like the bushing I have is undersized or the bell
crank hole is over sized. I haven't dug far enough into to determine which
it is, but I'm betting it's the welded part (IE: Bell Crank).
>>
>> I've thought about building a custom bushing, but thought I'd order one more
set from Vans and be extremely careful in prepping it, to remove as much slop
as possible before going any further down the path.
>>
>> Looking on Vans site this evening, I can't find that bushing anywhere for purchase.
It's labeled as BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313.
>>
>> Have any of you successfully ordered as 2nd set from Vans? Just wondering it
it could be hiding under a different stock number.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Yeah, I think its the gap between the OD of the bushing and the ID of the
control stick base Jesse.
I can take the stick and not just rock it forward and aft, but I can
actually pick the stick up (vertically) and set it back down. So the slop
is somewhere on the inside of the control stick base.
I'll have to either build a custom bushing for my bases with a local
machine shop, or buy new parts. For simplicities sake, I'm leaning toward
buying new parts and that's why I'd like to buy replacement bushings only
at this point. The cost to replacement bases is really high compared to a
few bucks for a bushing. So I'll just roll the dice with the bushing if I
can find the replacement part number on Vans site. I might have to give
them a call on Monday because I can't find it anywhere on the site.
Phil
On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:41 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Are you talking about the OD of the bushing being undersized? I have seen
> that before, although usually stick slop is because the bushing is too long
> and the stick base can slide forward/back on the bushing. In this case,
> just shorten the busing. If it's the bushing OD, then the only option is to
> get a bigger OD on the bushing or a new stick base and hope it fits tighter.
>
> In use, you don't really notice it in flight in my experience, although
> any excess movement will cause wear in the long run.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Feb 7, 2016, at 6:12 AM, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM
> wrote:
> >
> rv10(at)texasrv10.com>
> >
> > Thick/thin washer for the slop can help. A pain to insert but may work
> for your case.
> >
> > Gaylon Koenning
> >
> >
> >> On Feb 6, 2016, at 20:33, Phillip Perry wrote:
> >>
> >> I've managed to run into the control stick slop that a handful of other
> people have reported. It looks like the bushing I have is undersized or
> the bell crank hole is over sized. I haven't dug far enough into to
> determine which it is, but I'm betting it's the welded part (IE: Bell
> Crank).
> >>
> >> I've thought about building a custom bushing, but thought I'd order one
> more set from Vans and be extremely careful in prepping it, to remove as
> much slop as possible before going any further down the path.
> >>
> >> Looking on Vans site this evening, I can't find that bushing anywhere
> for purchase. It's labeled as BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313.
> >>
> >> Have any of you successfully ordered as 2nd set from Vans? Just
> wondering it it could be hiding under a different stock number.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >> Phil
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Measure your bushing and ask Van=99s what size it is supposed to
be. No sense in buying (and shipping) more bushings unless the bushing
is the problem.
From: Phillip Perry
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2016 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
Yeah, I think its the gap between the OD of the bushing and the ID of
the control stick base Jesse.
I can take the stick and not just rock it forward and aft, but I can
actually pick the stick up (vertically) and set it back down. So the
slop is somewhere on the inside of the control stick base.
I'll have to either build a custom bushing for my bases with a local
machine shop, or buy new parts. For simplicities sake, I'm leaning
toward buying new parts and that's why I'd like to buy replacement
bushings only at this point. The cost to replacement bases is really
high compared to a few bucks for a bushing. So I'll just roll the dice
with the bushing if I can find the replacement part number on Vans site.
I might have to give them a call on Monday because I can't find it
anywhere on the site.
Phil
On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:41 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
Are you talking about the OD of the bushing being undersized? I have
seen that before, although usually stick slop is because the bushing is
too long and the stick base can slide forward/back on the bushing. In
this case, just shorten the busing. If it's the bushing OD, then the
only option is to get a bigger OD on the bushing or a new stick base and
hope it fits tighter.
In use, you don't really notice it in flight in my experience,
although any excess movement will cause wear in the long run.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 7, 2016, at 6:12 AM, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM
wrote:
>
>
> Thick/thin washer for the slop can help. A pain to insert but may
work for your case.
>
> Gaylon Koenning
>
>
>> On Feb 6, 2016, at 20:33, Phillip Perry
wrote:
>>
>> I've managed to run into the control stick slop that a handful of
other people have reported. It looks like the bushing I have is
undersized or the bell crank hole is over sized. I haven't dug far
enough into to determine which it is, but I'm betting it's the welded
part (IE: Bell Crank).
>>
>> I've thought about building a custom bushing, but thought I'd order
one more set from Vans and be extremely careful in prepping it, to
remove as much slop as possible before going any further down the path.
>>
>> Looking on Vans site this evening, I can't find that bushing
anywhere for purchase. It's labeled as BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313.
>>
>> Have any of you successfully ordered as 2nd set from Vans? Just
wondering it it could be hiding under a different stock number.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
==========
br> fts!)
r> > w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
==========
-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Hey Phil,
Awhile back I needed a replacement bushing for a tool that was 40 years
old and of course no longer available. I found that local machine shops
have access to every imaginable id/od bushings, steel, brass, oil
impregnated ... you name it. I got exactly what I needed for $2, tool
works like new. IF that is your problem, get out your calipers, contact
your local machine shops.
Later, =93 Lew
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
The dimensions are right in the plans, as the part number.
Bushing 065 x .375 x 2.313
Should be able to disconnect everything from the stick base, so that it
is only pivoting on the bushing, and then examine where the slop is. The
plans note that you may need to ream the bushing for AN-4 bolt. Best to
start with an undersize reamer. Note the tolerance for an AN-4 is as
small as 0.246. Perhaps a different, larger tolerance bolt might be what
is need. Range is .246 to .249.
Perhaps you could have done too much deburring on the bushing or ID of
stick base??
Steps 1 and 2 on page 39-8 are the key.
I know that when something doesn't seem right to me, better than 50%
chance I am misreading the plans or not seeing/understanding something.
On 2/7/2016 7:11 AM, kboatright1(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Measure your bushing and ask Vans what size it is supposed to be. No
> sense in buying (and shipping) more bushings unless the bushing is the
> problem.
> *From:* Phillip Perry
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 07, 2016 8:56 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
> Yeah, I think its the gap between the OD of the bushing and the ID of
> the control stick base Jesse.
> I can take the stick and not just rock it forward and aft, but I can
> actually pick the stick up (vertically) and set it back down. So the
> slop is somewhere on the inside of the control stick base.
> I'll have to either build a custom bushing for my bases with a local
> machine shop, or buy new parts. For simplicities sake, I'm leaning
> toward buying new parts and that's why I'd like to buy replacement
> bushings only at this point. The cost to replacement bases is really
> high compared to a few bucks for a bushing. So I'll just roll the dice
> with the bushing if I can find the replacement part number on Vans
> site. I might have to give them a call on Monday because I can't find
> it anywhere on the site.
> Phil
> On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:41 AM, Jesse Saint > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Are you talking about the OD of the bushing being undersized? I have
> seen that before, although usually stick slop is because the bushing
> is too long and the stick base can slide forward/back on the
> bushing. In this case, just shorten the busing. If it's the bushing
> OD, then the only option is to get a bigger OD on the bushing or a
> new stick base and hope it fits tighter.
>
> In use, you don't really notice it in flight in my experience,
> although any excess movement will cause wear in the long run.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Feb 7, 2016, at 6:12 AM, RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM
> > wrote:
> >
> " >
> >
> > Thick/thin washer for the slop can help. A pain to insert but may
> work for your case.
> >
> > Gaylon Koenning
> >
> >
> >> On Feb 6, 2016, at 20:33, Phillip Perry > wrote:
> >>
> >> I've managed to run into the control stick slop that a handful
> of other people have reported. It looks like the bushing I have is
> undersized or the bell crank hole is over sized. I haven't dug far
> enough into to determine which it is, but I'm betting it's the
> welded part (IE: Bell Crank).
> >>
> >> I've thought about building a custom bushing, but thought I'd
> order one more set from Vans and be extremely careful in prepping
> it, to remove as much slop as possible before going any further down
> the path.
> >>
> >> Looking on Vans site this evening, I can't find that bushing
> anywhere for purchase. It's labeled as BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313.
> >>
> >> Have any of you successfully ordered as 2nd set from Vans? Just
> wondering it it could be hiding under a different stock number.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >> Phil
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> br> fts!)
> r> > w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ==========
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)planearound.com> |
I found the slop in mine too. I threw away the original bushings and made some
out of Delrin. They are silky smooth now with no play.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
530 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452663#452663
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Yeah, I knew you had switched them over. I think they were still brass
when we flew in Salt Lake because I remember you mentioning it. Yours
were pretty similar to how mine are.
Did you machine them with the lathe? I'm wondering what the chances are of
me managing to machine some on a drill press. I might be able to find
someone with a lathe here at KPWG, but curious to hear how you built them.
Phil
On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 10:18 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I found the slop in mine too. I threw away the original bushings and made
> some out of Delrin. They are silky smooth now with no play.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
> 530 hours
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452663#452663
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)planearound.com> |
Phil,
I made mine on a lathe. I reamed my tubing first since Vans' welds make the tubing
out of round. I have adjustable reamers so I reamed just enough to make
it round. I measured the ID and made the Delrin bushing slide in. The bushing
is barely longer and when tightened down it would swell and fill any slop.
The Delrin works great. The more you tighten the bolt the tighter the bushing
fit. There was a good spot where there was no slop and the friction was smooth
and easy. If I tighten it more the friction would be too much.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
530 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452712#452712
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Centerline @ Wingtip |
For those of you who have installed the magnetometer in the wing tip, are we
all in agreement that the outboard wing rib is perfectly parallel to the ce
nterline of the aircraft?
The Garmin magnetometer states that it needs to be within 1/2 degree of the c
enterline (much tighter demands than the Dynon) and I'm hoping I can base th
at centerline measurement off the outboard side of the wing rib.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
Although our RV-10 has an engine and wings, between the two we got
sidetracked on an MK-1 Christavia plans built aircraft which is soon to
fly. Our C182 has a BK KLN-94, so, to keep it simple, I put one in the
Christavia. Now, I may have goofed.
Does the antenna need an aluminum ground plane? If so, how big? This is a
fabric plane, similar to a Champ.
Bruce Breckenridge
RV-10 Wings/engine done. SN (gulp!) 40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Any chance of making any more of the delrin bushings?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452740#452740
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Centerline @ Wingtip |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
I mounted mine out there, but leveled it with washers on the mounting bolts
using a digital level. Works great.
On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 9:19 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> For those of you who have installed the magnetometer in the wing tip, are
> we all in agreement that the outboard wing rib is perfectly parallel to the
> centerline of the aircraft?
>
> The Garmin magnetometer states that it needs to be within 1/2 degree of
> the centerline (much tighter demands than the Dynon) and I'm hoping I can
> base that centerline measurement off the outboard side of the wing rib.
>
> Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Way Off Topic |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
Bruce,
Yes, the antenna needs a ground plane but it doesnt have to be the whole airplane.
On my Skybolt I cut an aluminum disc, around 8 diameter but its been
a long while, and glued it to the inside of the fabric and attached the antenna
to it. Worked great. Probably some better answers out there if you do a Google
search.
Good luck on your non-RV-10 ;)
Marcus
On Feb 9, 2016, at 10:55 PM, Bruce Breckenridge wrote:
Although our RV-10 has an engine and wings, between the two we got sidetracked
on an MK-1 Christavia plans built aircraft which is soon to fly. Our C182 has
a BK KLN-94, so, to keep it simple, I put one in the Christavia. Now, I may
have goofed.
Does the antenna need an aluminum ground plane? If so, how big? This is a fabric
plane, similar to a Champ.
Bruce Breckenridge
RV-10 Wings/engine done. SN (gulp!) 40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Way Off Topic |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Just think of how much of a 'ground plane' a handheld has.
A metal wing intersection fairing works well on my Pitts with the rubber
ducky attached to the end of the coax.
Linn
On 2/10/2016 8:09 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Bruce,
> Yes, the antenna needs a ground plane but it doesnt have to be the whole
airplane. On my Skybolt I cut an aluminum disc, around 8 diameter but its been
a long while, and glued it to the inside of the fabric and attached the antenna
to it. Worked great. Probably some better answers out there if you do
a Google search.
>
> Good luck on your non-RV-10 ;)
>
> Marcus
>
> On Feb 9, 2016, at 10:55 PM, Bruce Breckenridge wrote:
>
> Although our RV-10 has an engine and wings, between the two we got sidetracked
on an MK-1 Christavia plans built aircraft which is soon to fly. Our C182 has
a BK KLN-94, so, to keep it simple, I put one in the Christavia. Now, I may
have goofed.
>
> Does the antenna need an aluminum ground plane? If so, how big? This is a fabric
plane, similar to a Champ.
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> RV-10 Wings/engine done. SN (gulp!) 40018
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Way Off Topic |
On my fabric covered Rans S6-Es I made a 12" square Aluminum plate to mount the
bent whip antenna. It's worked great.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
610-928-3420
> On Feb 10, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> Just think of how much of a 'ground plane' a handheld has.
> A metal wing intersection fairing works well on my Pitts with the rubber ducky
attached to the end of the coax.
> Linn
>
>> On 2/10/2016 8:09 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>> Bruce,
>> Yes, the antenna needs a ground plane but it doesnt have to be the whole
airplane. On my Skybolt I cut an aluminum disc, around 8 diameter but its been
a long while, and glued it to the inside of the fabric and attached the antenna
to it. Worked great. Probably some better answers out there if you do
a Google search.
>>
>> Good luck on your non-RV-10 ;)
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>> On Feb 9, 2016, at 10:55 PM, Bruce Breckenridge wrote:
>>
>> Although our RV-10 has an engine and wings, between the two we got sidetracked
on an MK-1 Christavia plans built aircraft which is soon to fly. Our C182
has a BK KLN-94, so, to keep it simple, I put one in the Christavia. Now, I may
have goofed.
>>
>> Does the antenna need an aluminum ground plane? If so, how big? This is a
fabric plane, similar to a Champ.
>>
>> Bruce Breckenridge
>> RV-10 Wings/engine done. SN (gulp!) 40018
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Bruce,
I=99m not familiar with this radio but I assume it is GPS only, no
comm. If so, the GPS antenna needs no ground plane. Whatever bracket
you can fabricate is fine. This is why they work when mounted on top of
fiberglass.
For what it=99s worth, standard =C2=BC wavelength aircraft comm
antennas do need a ground plane. The radius of the ground plane needs
to also be at least =C2=BC wavelength. At 120MHZ this works out to be
24=9D or so. Conventionally this is provided by the skin of the
airplane. For composites you can add four or so strips of copper tape
on the inside of the fuselage, the ends connected to the base of the
antenna. You can also run four or more light wires to the base of the
antenna spread out like the spooks on a wheel.
As previous suggested however, for a tube and fabric aircraft mounting
the comm antenna to the frame at any point will provide the needed
ground plane =93 no other action is needed.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Breckenridge
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2016 10:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Way Off Topic
Although our RV-10 has an engine and wings, between the two we got
sidetracked on an MK-1 Christavia plans built aircraft which is soon to
fly. Our C182 has a BK KLN-94, so, to keep it simple, I put one in the
Christavia. Now, I may have goofed.
Does the antenna need an aluminum ground plane? If so, how big? This
is a fabric plane, similar to a Champ.
Bruce Breckenridge
RV-10 Wings/engine done. SN (gulp!) 40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Way Off Topic |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
For what it is worth, Garmin does require a ground plane for its
Certified GPS antennas. Why, I do not know. I did small aluminum plate
on my RV-10, then added some aluminum tape to extend it where flat plate
would be difficult.
On 2/10/2016 8:36 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
> Bruce,
>
> Im not familiar with this radio but I assume it is GPS only, no comm.
> If so, the GPS antenna needs no ground plane. Whatever bracket you can
> fabricate is fine. This is why they work when mounted on top of fiberglass.
>
> For what its worth, standard wavelength aircraft comm antennas do
> need a ground plane. The radius of the ground plane needs to also be at
> least wavelength. At 120MHZ this works out to be 24 or so.
> Conventionally this is provided by the skin of the airplane. For
> composites you can add four or so strips of copper tape on the inside of
> the fuselage, the ends connected to the base of the antenna. You can
> also run four or more light wires to the base of the antenna spread out
> like the spooks on a wheel.
>
> As previous suggested however, for a tube and fabric aircraft mounting
> the comm antenna to the frame at any point will provide the needed
> ground plane no other action is needed.
>
> Carl
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce
> Breckenridge
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 09, 2016 10:56 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com; Jesse Saint
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Way Off Topic
>
> Although our RV-10 has an engine and wings, between the two we got
> sidetracked on an MK-1 Christavia plans built aircraft which is soon to
> fly. Our C182 has a BK KLN-94, so, to keep it simple, I put one in the
> Christavia. Now, I may have goofed.
>
> Does the antenna need an aluminum ground plane? If so, how big? This
> is a fabric plane, similar to a Champ.
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
>
> RV-10 Wings/engine done. SN (gulp!) 40018
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Could anyone please direct me to where I could purchase those brackets which are
attached to the overhead console, from which I can hang harnesses and headsets
from please?
Your assistance would again be greatly appreciated please.
Warm regards
Patrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
http://www.planeinnovations.com/product-category/brackets/
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452757#452757
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
**warning** completely unsolicited input follows:
Com'on builder, you can make your own belt hangers. Try these
<http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=7984&log=152315&row=15>
- they look good and work even better.
Someone suggested hanging the front seat headsets on the side underneath
the panel. Out of sight and sun yet easily accessible if you get them
before belting in. I made a hook with a piece of aluminum tubing and
blind riveted to that first vertical behind the firewall. And when
flying solo, no action required for the unused headset.
Bill "providing information you already had but discarded" Watson
On 2/11/2016 4:49 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> Could anyone please direct me to where I could purchase those brackets which
are attached to the overhead console, from which I can hang harnesses and headsets
from please?
>
> Your assistance would again be greatly appreciated please.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
Headsets holders are above and on either side of the tunnel on a simple
single piece of =BD=94 aluminum tubing attached under the panel. The
ends of
the tubing have a few inches of plastic hose to protect the headsets.
Harness strap holders are Z brackets made from .040=94 aluminum and
attached
to the inboard door hinge screws on each side.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
**warning** completely unsolicited input follows:
Com'on builder, you can make your own belt hangers. Try these
<http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project
=224&
category=7984&log=152315&row=15> - they look good and work even
better.
Someone suggested hanging the front seat headsets on the side underneath
the
panel. Out of sight and sun yet easily accessible if you get them
before
belting in. I made a hook with a piece of aluminum tubing and blind
riveted
to that first vertical behind the firewall. And when flying solo, no
action
required for the unused headset.
Bill "providing information you already had but discarded" Watson
On 2/11/2016 4:49 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
Could anyone please direct me to where I could purchase those brackets
which
are attached to the overhead console, from which I can hang harnesses
and
headsets from please?
Your assistance would again be greatly appreciated please.
Warm regards
Patrick
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: Slick 6393 Mag and Mag Drive |
| From: | "Barry" <blmarzaa(at)gmail.com> |
Mag is Sold
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452761#452761
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Perfect, many thanks Bill.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 11 Feb 2016, at 23:26, bill.peyton wrote:
>
>
> http://www.planeinnovations.com/product-category/brackets/
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452757#452757
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Any pictures please Carl?
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 12 Feb 2016, at 01:10, Carl Froehlich wrot
e:
>
> Headsets holders are above and on either side of the tunnel on a simple si
ngle piece of =C2=BD=9D aluminum tubing attached under the panel. The
ends of the tubing have a few inches of plastic hose to protect the headset
s.
>
> Harness strap holders are Z brackets made from .040=9D aluminum and a
ttached to the inboard door hinge screws on each side.
>
> Carl
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 8:19 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
>
> **warning** completely unsolicited input follows:
>
> Com'on builder, you can make your own belt hangers. Try these - they look
good and work even better.
>
> Someone suggested hanging the front seat headsets on the side underneath t
he panel. Out of sight and sun yet easily accessible if you get them before
belting in. I made a hook with a piece of aluminum tubing and blind riveted
to that first vertical behind the firewall. And when flying solo, no actio
n required for the unused headset.
>
> Bill "providing information you already had but discarded" Watson
>
>
> On 2/11/2016 4:49 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> Could anyone please direct me to where I could purchase those brackets whi
ch are attached to the overhead console, from which I can hang harnesses and
headsets from please?
>
> Your assistance would again be greatly appreciated please.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
Here's another version.
--Dave
On Thursday, February 11, 2016, Patrick Pulis
wrote:
> Any pictures please Carl?
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
> On 12 Feb 2016, at 01:10, Carl Froehlich > wrote:
>
> Headsets holders are above and on either side of the tunnel on a simple
> single piece of =C2=BD=9D aluminum tubing attached under the panel.
The ends of
> the tubing have a few inches of plastic hose to protect the headsets.
>
>
> Harness strap holders are Z brackets made from .040=9D aluminum and
attached
> to the inboard door hinge screws on each side.
>
>
> Carl
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [
> mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *
On
> Behalf Of *Bill Watson
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 11, 2016 8:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
>
>
> **warning** completely unsolicited input follows:
>
> Com'on builder, you can make your own belt hangers. Try these
> <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project
=224&category=7984&log=152315&row=15>
> - they look good and work even better.
>
> Someone suggested hanging the front seat headsets on the side underneath
> the panel. Out of sight and sun yet easily accessible if you get them
> before belting in. I made a hook with a piece of aluminum tubing and blin
d
> riveted to that first vertical behind the firewall. And when flying solo
,
> no action required for the unused headset.
>
> Bill "providing information you already had but discarded" Watson
>
>
> On 2/11/2016 4:49 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Could anyone please direct me to where I could purchase those brackets wh
ich are attached to the overhead console, from which I can hang harnesses a
nd headsets from please?
>
>
> Your assistance would again be greatly appreciated please.
>
>
> Warm regards
>
>
> Patrick
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
Here you go.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
Any pictures please Carl?
Warm regards
Patrick
On 12 Feb 2016, at 01:10, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
Headsets holders are above and on either side of the tunnel on a simple
single piece of =C2=BD=9D aluminum tubing attached under the
panel. The ends of the tubing have a few inches of plastic hose to
protect the headsets.
Harness strap holders are Z brackets made from .040=9D aluminum
and attached to the inboard door hinge screws on each side.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
**warning** completely unsolicited input follows:
Com'on builder, you can make your own belt hangers. Try these
<http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project
=224&category=7984&log=152315&row=15> - they look good and work
even better.
Someone suggested hanging the front seat headsets on the side underneath
the panel. Out of sight and sun yet easily accessible if you get them
before belting in. I made a hook with a piece of aluminum tubing and
blind riveted to that first vertical behind the firewall. And when
flying solo, no action required for the unused headset.
Bill "providing information you already had but discarded" Watson
On 2/11/2016 4:49 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
Could anyone please direct me to where I could purchase those brackets
which are attached to the overhead console, from which I can hang
harnesses and headsets from please?
Your assistance would again be greatly appreciated please.
Warm regards
Patrick
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
Actually, I made the parts originally and sold them myself.=C2- Then was
contacted by (I think it was Paul) from Plane Innovations, and he bought al
l I had made.=C2- But I think Paul was killed in a plane crash several ye
ars back.=C2- I no longer make them because I've moved to Texas.=C2- Th
at's all I know.Don McDonald
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
Perfect, many thanks Bill.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 11 Feb 2016, at 23:26, bill.peyton wrote:
>
>
> http://www.planeinnovations.com/product-category/brackets/
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452757#452757
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
S -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Many thanks David.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 12 Feb 2016, at 07:10, David Saylor wrote:
>
>
> Here's another version.
>
> --Dave
>
>> On Thursday, February 11, 2016, Patrick Pulis
wrote:
>> Any pictures please Carl?
>>
>> Warm regards
>>
>> Patrick
>>
>>> On 12 Feb 2016, at 01:10, Carl Froehlich wr
ote:
>>>
>>> Headsets holders are above and on either side of the tunnel on a simple s
ingle piece of =C2=BD=9D aluminum tubing attached under the panel. Th
e ends of the tubing have a few inches of plastic hose to protect the headse
ts.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Harness strap holders are Z brackets made from .040=9D aluminum an
d attached to the inboard door hinge screws on each side.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve
r(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
>>> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 8:19 AM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> **warning** completely unsolicited input follows:
>>>
>>> Com'on builder, you can make your own belt hangers. Try these - they lo
ok good and work even better.
>>>
>>> Someone suggested hanging the front seat headsets on the side underneath
the panel. Out of sight and sun yet easily accessible if you get them befo
re belting in. I made a hook with a piece of aluminum tubing and blind rivet
ed to that first vertical behind the firewall. And when flying solo, no act
ion required for the unused headset.
>>>
>>> Bill "providing information you already had but discarded" Watson
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2/11/2016 4:49 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>>>
u>
>>>
>>> Could anyone please direct me to where I could purchase those brackets w
hich are attached to the overhead console, from which I can hang harnesses a
nd headsets from please?
>>>
>>> Your assistance would again be greatly appreciated please.
>>>
>>> Warm regards
>>>
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
>>> www.avast.com
>>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Many thanks Carl.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 12 Feb 2016, at 07:28, Carl Froehlich wrot
e:
>
> Here you go.
>
> Carl
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 3:02 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
>
> Any pictures please Carl?
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
> On 12 Feb 2016, at 01:10, Carl Froehlich wrot
e:
>
> Headsets holders are above and on either side of the tunnel on a simple si
ngle piece of =C2=BD=9D aluminum tubing attached under the panel. The
ends of the tubing have a few inches of plastic hose to protect the headset
s.
>
> Harness strap holders are Z brackets made from .040=9D aluminum and a
ttached to the inboard door hinge screws on each side.
>
> Carl
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 8:19 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness Strap & Headset Bracket
>
> **warning** completely unsolicited input follows:
>
> Com'on builder, you can make your own belt hangers. Try these - they look
good and work even better.
>
> Someone suggested hanging the front seat headsets on the side underneath t
he panel. Out of sight and sun yet easily accessible if you get them before
belting in. I made a hook with a piece of aluminum tubing and blind riveted
to that first vertical behind the firewall. And when flying solo, no actio
n required for the unused headset.
>
> Bill "providing information you already had but discarded" Watson
>
>
> On 2/11/2016 4:49 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> Could anyone please direct me to where I could purchase those brackets whi
ch are attached to the overhead console, from which I can hang harnesses and
headsets from please?
>
> Your assistance would again be greatly appreciated please.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | maintenance tips |
The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading erratically
high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA friend said the same
is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15 times the experimental
price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours and again at about 800 hours.
The new one started the routine a couple of months ago. After thinking about
the transducer, I decided to try cleaning the contacts; I have flown several
hours since then and the sensor is operating normally. I think that the
problem may be the oil residue, etc swirling about under the cowl and
causing contact problems. So far so good.
I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I spoke
with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a couple of
occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it is possible
through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master cylinder is not
fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal pressures due to
covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty brake and perhaps
erratic steering as a result. It can happen with long taxi, hot weather and
dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has happened to me twice in about 1000
hours. It seems as though a brake bleed is necessary but after a short
period the situation resolves itself. At the time of occurrence it seems
best to remove one's feet from the brakes for a second or two and reapply.
David McNeill
N46007 TT 1000+
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: maintenance tips |
In a prior life with much heavier iron being pushed by a hot air
tailpipe, we were taught to only put your feet on the brake pedals when
you needed to brake, get on both brakes quickly with equal pressure, and
then get totally back off of them. Let the plane accelerate a bit, then
do it all over again. A series of slowing down through firm braking,
then accelerating until you need to slow it down again.
Constant pressure during taxiing creates heat. Enough heat will cause
brake fade and ignite any fluid around the pucks..
I have used this technique solely since building my -10 nearly 10 years
ago, and not only have there been no brake incidents, I replace the pads
about every 300 hours (there is still life left in them at that point, I
just feel better replacing them..).
grumpy
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 8:16 AM, David wrote:
>
> The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading
erratically high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA friend
said the same is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15 times the
experimental price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours and again at
about 800 hours. The new one started the routine a couple of months ago.
After thinking about the transducer, I decided to try cleaning the
contacts; I have flown several hours since then and the sensor is
operating normally. I think that the problem may be the oil residue, etc
swirling about under the cowl and causing contact problems. So far so
good.
>
> I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I
spoke with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a couple
of occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it is
possible through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master
cylinder is not fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal
pressures due to covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty
brake and perhaps erratic steering as a result. It can happen with long
taxi, hot weather and dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has happened
to me twice in about 1000 hours. It seems as though a brake bleed is
necessary but after a short period the situation resolves itself. At the
time of occurrence it seems best to remove one=99s feet from the
brakes for a second or two and reapply.
>
> David McNeill
> N46007 TT 1000+
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by
Avast.
> www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | maintenance tips |
It is easy to drag a brake. Here is a note I sent out a few months ago on
the subject.
My son and son-in-law are Naval Aviators. As is easy to do, both have a
tendency to drag the brakes. A good friend of mine, Tom Doran, made these
extension on his milling machine from 1" Delron. He even made me one out of
steel for me to use as a drilling gig. I used a couple of hose clamps to
attached the gig and drill the #19 holes.
While I did this to help the son and son-in-law I confess I found them to be
much better than just the stock set up.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: maintenance tips
The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading erratically
high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA friend said the same
is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15 times the experimental
price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours and again at about 800 hours.
The new one started the routine a couple of months ago. After thinking about
the transducer, I decided to try cleaning the contacts; I have flown several
hours since then and the sensor is operating normally. I think that the
problem may be the oil residue, etc swirling about under the cowl and
causing contact problems. So far so good.
I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I spoke
with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a couple of
occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it is possible
through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master cylinder is not
fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal pressures due to
covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty brake and perhaps
erratic steering as a result. It can happen with long taxi, hot weather and
dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has happened to me twice in about 1000
hours. It seems as though a brake bleed is necessary but after a short
period the situation resolves itself. At the time of occurrence it seems
best to remove one's feet from the brakes for a second or two and reapply.
David McNeill
N46007 TT 1000+
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: maintenance tips |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Along with 'heel pads' you can put an additional compression spring on
the master cylinder shaft to help it relax fully. The angle of the
pedal just naturally makes it easy to drag the brakes.
As John Miller posted, short, hard brake pressure is always preferable
to dragging the brakes due to the heat. Tail-dragger pilots should be
used to that already.
AFAIK, the original Matco brake disks are a little thinner than their
Cleveland counterparts and don't have as much mass to store a lot of heat.
Linn
On 2/13/2016 9:49 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> It is easy to drag a brake. Here is a note I sent out a few months
> ago on the subject.
>
> My son and son-in-law are Naval Aviators. As is easy to do, both have
> a tendency to drag the brakes. A good friend of mine, Tom Doran, made
> these extension on his milling machine from 1 Delron. He even made
> me one out of steel for me to use as a drilling gig. I used a couple
> of hose clamps to attached the gig and drill the #19 holes.
>
> While I did this to help the son and son-in-law I confess I found them
> to be much better than just the stock set up.
>
>
> Carl
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:17 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: maintenance tips
>
> The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading
> erratically high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA
> friend said the same is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15
> times the experimental price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours
> and again at about 800 hours. The new one started the routine a couple
> of months ago. After thinking about the transducer, I decided to try
> cleaning the contacts; I have flown several hours since then and the
> sensor is operating normally. I think that the problem may be the oil
> residue, etc swirling about under the cowl and causing contact
> problems. So far so good.
>
> I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I
> spoke with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a
> couple of occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it
> is possible through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master
> cylinder is not fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal
> pressures due to covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty
> brake and perhaps erratic steering as a result. It can happen with
> long taxi, hot weather and dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has
> happened to me twice in about 1000 hours. It seems as though a brake
> bleed is necessary but after a short period the situation resolves
> itself. At the time of occurrence it seems best to remove ones feet
> from the brakes for a second or two and reapply.
>
> David McNeill
>
> N46007 TT 1000+
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: maintenance tips |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Here's my setup for return springs to assist the internal spring on the
master cylinders.
On the bottom is a delrin washer to help protect the master cylinder from
the spring.
Then the spring.
Then on top of that is a collar for the spring to press against on the top
and to adjust the tension you feel on the brake pedals.
All hardware purchased in the aviation department of Ace Hardware.
Probably around $7 per master cylinder.
Phil
[image: Inline image 1]
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 9:13 AM, Linn Walters wrote
:
> Along with 'heel pads' you can put an additional compression spring on th
e
> master cylinder shaft to help it relax fully. The angle of the pedal jus
t
> naturally makes it easy to drag the brakes.
>
> As John Miller posted, short, hard brake pressure is always preferable to
> dragging the brakes due to the heat. Tail-dragger pilots should be used
to
> that already.
> AFAIK, the original Matco brake disks are a little thinner than their
> Cleveland counterparts and don't have as much mass to store a lot of heat
.
> Linn
>
>
> On 2/13/2016 9:49 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> It is easy to drag a brake. Here is a note I sent out a few months ago o
n
> the subject.
>
>
> My son and son-in-law are Naval Aviators. As is easy to do, both have a
> tendency to drag the brakes. A good friend of mine, Tom Doran, made thes
e
> extension on his milling machine from 1=9D Delron. He even made me
one out
> of steel for me to use as a drilling gig. I used a couple of hose clamps
> to attached the gig and drill the #19 holes.
>
>
> While I did this to help the son and son-in-law I confess I found them to
> be much better than just the stock set up.
>
>
> Carl
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [
> mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *David
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:17 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: maintenance tips
>
>
> The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading
> erratically high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA friend
> said the same is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15 times the
> experimental price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours and again at
> about 800 hours. The new one started the routine a couple of months ago.
> After thinking about the transducer, I decided to try cleaning the
> contacts; I have flown several hours since then and the sensor is operati
ng
> normally. I think that the problem may be the oil residue, etc swirling
> about under the cowl and causing contact problems. So far so good.
>
>
> I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I
> spoke with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a couple o
f
> occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it is possible
> through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master cylinder is not
> fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal pressures due to
> covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty brake and perhaps
> erratic steering as a result. It can happen with long taxi, hot weather a
nd
> dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has happened to me twice in about
> 1000 hours. It seems as though a brake bleed is necessary but after a sho
rt
> period the situation resolves itself. At the time of occurrence it seems
> best to remove one=99s feet from the brakes for a second or two and
reapply.
>
>
> David McNeill
>
> N46007 TT 1000+
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)planearound.com> |
Dave, I am reluctant to make these for control surfaces for other builders. I
think each one would have to be specifically made for each aircraft after reaming
the hole.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
530 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452798#452798
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them down a
little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my sloppiness.
I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a 3/8 delrin
rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in the mail
too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit without any working
(though I doubt it).
Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends lathe.
I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another reamer that's
11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if it's too tight
I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or possibly
late next week.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them down
a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Sorry typo.
15/64. Not 11/64...
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my sloppiness.
>
> I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a 3/8
delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in the mail
too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit without any
working (though I doubt it).
>
> Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends lathe.
I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another reamer
that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if it's too tight
I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
>
> I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or possibly
late next week.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
>>
>>
>> I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them down
a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 for sale
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | best glide speed |
| From: | "amekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
I'm been looking at different v speeds
people are using for the RV10.
I see best glide 80 kts and other places 90 kts.
Also the Vx and Vy speeds seem to vary a lot.
Has anyone done actual testing for the numbers?
Alan
N668g 340 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452808#452808
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | best glide speed |
Yes I did testing....at least twice....and what I found out was that without
much more sophisticated test equipment I could not come up with a precise
number.
I settled with Vx of 78 and a Vy of 85 a Vgl of 80 (all knots).
But.........I never fly that way. I can not go very far climbing at 78 due
to engine heat and I never climb out at under 110. When practicing
emergency landing, I feel a lot better at 90 knots.
>From what I can remember from the testing, airspeed did not have a great
effect on the performance.....to say it another way there is very little
difference between a Vx of 78 and 80 but I did the math and it came out to
78.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of amekler
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2016 5:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: best glide speed
I'm been looking at different v speeds
people are using for the RV10.
I see best glide 80 kts and other places 90 kts.
Also the Vx and Vy speeds seem to vary a lot.
Has anyone done actual testing for the numbers?
Alan
N668g 340 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452808#452808
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: best glide speed |
Rene,
In my pilots manual that came with the plane these are the speeds listed.
Vr 65 KTS
Vso 49 KTS
VS 67 KTS
BEST GLIDE 80KTS
VX 71 KTS
VY 104 KTS
I also climb out at least at 90 kts
Alan
> On Feb 14, 2016, at 7:25 AM, amekler wrote:
>
>
> I'm been looking at different v speeds
> people are using for the RV10.
> I see best glide 80 kts and other places 90 kts.
> Also the Vx and Vy speeds seem to vary a lot.
> Has anyone done actual testing for the numbers?
> Alan
> N668g 340 hrs
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452808#452808
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: best glide speed |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Take all numbers you received with the plane with a healthy grain of
salt. These are experimental planes, and you have no idea how
diligent the builder was at obtaining the numbers. You bought a plane
that was made by a non-certified company, with perhaps non-standard
techniques at times, and flown through an unknown test program of
unknown diligence. The ONLY way you will know the true numbers
are to go get them yourself in your own testing. In short, buying
a homebuilt, you need to not trust the original builder on ANYTHING, but
verify EVERYTHING for yourself, and put yourself through the whole
process of flight testing. There was absolutely nobody looking over the
test flight process in almost any homebuilt builders case, so you cannot
ensure that they even did the testing. In fact, with so many POH's out
there, I'm sure that a large portion of builders simply copy what someone
else has published.
I am pretty sure that just like Rene's comments, my numbers aren't
100% accurate. I had a very hard time really getting any reliably
repeatable numbers. Sure, with a bunch more time and testing I could
probably narrow it down, but as he said, there seems to not be that much
difference between a couple kts this way or that way. In the end, when it
comes to climb performance, I've learned to accept that in every situation
that I've flown so far, the airplane is simply more capable than most other
small GA airplanes, so Vx or Vy...it really doesn't make much difference.
The limiting factor as he noted is likely to be more the engine
cooling. But
the RV-10 will get you away from the terrain in short order...at which point
you'll just use cruise climb anyway. Maybe a little more important is the
best glide, but that's where you'll have to test your aircraft as it is
today,
in its current W&B configuration.
So in short, I just encourage everyone to go get your own numbers...don't
just cheat and ask other builders. These aren't certified planes, and there
is very little consistency in the exact airframe and W&B config, so it's
just
plain safer, and good for you, to go do the testing yourself.
Tim
On 2/14/2016 10:00 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
> Rene,
> In my pilots manual that came with the plane these are the speeds listed.
>
> Vr 65 KTS
>
> Vso 49 KTS
>
> VS 67 KTS
>
> BEST GLIDE 80KTS
>
> VX 71 KTS
>
> VY 104 KTS
>
>
> I also climb out at least at 90 kts
>
> Alan
>> On Feb 14, 2016, at 7:25 AM, amekler > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> I'm been looking at different v speeds
>> people are using for the RV10.
>> I see best glide 80 kts and other places 90 kts.
>> Also the Vx and Vy speeds seem to vary a lot.
>> Has anyone done actual testing for the numbers?
>> Alan
>> N668g 340 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452808#452808
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: best glide speed |
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Tim,
Thanks. I plan on getting my own numbers as i have no idea where the builder got
these numbers.
Alan
ps. Do you have a link where I can find the recommended procedures to use?
> On Feb 14, 2016, at 10:36 AM, Rene wrote:
>
>
> Yes I did testing....at least twice....and what I found out was that without
> much more sophisticated test equipment I could not come up with a precise
> number.
>
> I settled with Vx of 78 and a Vy of 85 a Vgl of 80 (all knots).
>
> But.........I never fly that way. I can not go very far climbing at 78 due
> to engine heat and I never climb out at under 110. When practicing
> emergency landing, I feel a lot better at 90 knots.
>
>> From what I can remember from the testing, airspeed did not have a great
> effect on the performance.....to say it another way there is very little
> difference between a Vx of 78 and 80 but I did the math and it came out to
> 78.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of amekler
> Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2016 5:25 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: best glide speed
>
>
> I'm been looking at different v speeds
> people are using for the RV10.
> I see best glide 80 kts and other places 90 kts.
> Also the Vx and Vy speeds seem to vary a lot.
> Has anyone done actual testing for the numbers?
> Alan
> N668g 340 hrs
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452808#452808
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: best glide speed |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
Remember that best glide speed is FLAPS UP till you have the landing area
made.
On Sun, Feb 14, 2016 at 11:00 AM, Alan Mekler MD
wrote:
> Rene,
> In my pilots manual that came with the plane these are the speeds listed.
>
> Vr 65 KTS
>
> Vso 49 KTS
>
> VS 67 KTS
>
> BEST GLIDE 80KTS
>
> VX 71 KTS
>
> VY 104 KTS
>
>
> I also climb out at least at 90 kts
> Alan
>
> On Feb 14, 2016, at 7:25 AM, amekler wrote:
>
>
> I'm been looking at different v speeds
> people are using for the RV10.
> I see best glide 80 kts and other places 90 kts.
> Also the Vx and Vy speeds seem to vary a lot.
> Has anyone done actual testing for the numbers?
> Alan
> N668g 340 hrs
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452808#452808
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: best glide speed |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Remember that Vglide is tricky. It varies with aircraft weight (like the square
root). Also, in the real world where you want to glide as far as possible over
the ground with an engine out, the best indicated speed to use depends on the
wind.
Mine seems to be around 80kias, no wind, gross weight.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452821#452821
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: best glide speed |
| From: | "dhmoose" <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
And remember to pull the prop out to extend glide during your testing, simulated,
and real best glides. It makes a noticeable difference in performance and the
flying characteristics. I was taught to only push the prop control back in
when you need aerodynamic braking to avoid an overshoot.
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Flying!
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452839#452839
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
Just remember that if you want the best glide; prop control is aft; high
pitch, low RPM.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
dlm34077 wrote:
> Just remember that if you want the best glide; prop control is aft; high pitch,
low RPM.
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com (https://www.avast.com/sig-email)
And, throttle full open (control forward). Of course this cannot be practiced with
the engine running!
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452874#452874
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short! |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Hi team
I purchased to pre-fabricated Bonaco brake lines some time ago and went to fit
them today, however the two lines that interconnect the pilot and co-pilot brake
master cylinders are only 31.5" long, as opposed to the 43" called for in the
plans.
Has anyone else encountered this problem with the Bonaco brake line kit?
Warm regards
Patrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short! |
I believe they modeled them after my setup a number of years ago. Here's a t
our.
https://youtu.be/gemgQmVsOYI
Also, you'll want to make sure you adel clamp the tunnel lines frequently.
They're long so they don't sag down and rub on rivet heads. I used the fac
tory clamp locations and then added a 2nd pair between those higher on the t
unnel walls. So it kinda makes some S-Turns down the sides of the tunnel.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 21, 2016, at 5:01 AM, Patrick Pulis wro
te:
>
>
> Hi team
>
> I purchased to pre-fabricated Bonaco brake lines some time ago and went to
fit them today, however the two lines that interconnect the pilot and co-pi
lot brake master cylinders are only 31.5" long, as opposed to the 43" called
for in the plans.
>
> Has anyone else encountered this problem with the Bonaco brake line kit?
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short! |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Thanks Phil
I'm only replacing the lines under the panel. They two in question are way t
oo short.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 22 Feb 2016, at 02:13, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I believe they modeled them after my setup a number of years ago. Here's a
tour.
>
> https://youtu.be/gemgQmVsOYI
>
> Also, you'll want to make sure you adel clamp the tunnel lines frequently.
They're long so they don't sag down and rub on rivet heads. I used the f
actory clamp locations and then added a 2nd pair between those higher on the
tunnel walls. So it kinda makes some S-Turns down the sides of the tunnel
.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Feb 21, 2016, at 5:01 AM, Patrick Pulis wr
ote:
>>
>
>>
>> Hi team
>>
>> I purchased to pre-fabricated Bonaco brake lines some time ago and went t
o fit them today, however the two lines that interconnect the pilot and co-p
ilot brake master cylinders are only 31.5" long, as opposed to the 43" calle
d for in the plans.
>>
>> Has anyone else encountered this problem with the Bonaco brake line kit?
>>
>> Warm regards
>>
>> Patri=======================
=======================
>> http://www.matronics.com/Naviga==============
==========================
============; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>
>> <========================
==========================
=====
==========================
==========================
-=========================
==========================
==========================
-=========================
==========================
========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Sandra Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
| Subject: | Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short! |
Patrick, I=99m away from my -10 until April 3rd, but I=99m
wondering if you had the wrong lines sent to you. I recall the
31=9D lines where for down the gear legs.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Sunday, 21 February, 2016 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short!
Thanks Phil
I'm only replacing the lines under the panel. They two in question are
way too short.
Warm regards
Patrick
On 22 Feb 2016, at 02:13, Phillip Perry wrote:
I believe they modeled them after my setup a number of years ago.
Here's a tour.
https://youtu.be/gemgQmVsOYI
Also, you'll want to make sure you adel clamp the tunnel lines
frequently. They're long so they don't sag down and rub on rivet
heads. I used the factory clamp locations and then added a 2nd pair
between those higher on the tunnel walls. So it kinda makes some
S-Turns down the sides of the tunnel.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 21, 2016, at 5:01 AM, Patrick Pulis
wrote:
Hi team
I purchased to pre-fabricated Bonaco brake lines some time ago and went
to fit them today, however the two lines that interconnect the pilot and
co-pilot brake master cylinders are only 31.5" long, as opposed to the
43" called for in the plans.
Has anyone else encountered this problem with the Bonaco brake line kit?
Warm regards
Patri=======================
=======================
http://www.matronics.com/Naviga==============
=============; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
<="" span="">
<========================
======
========== >www.buildersbooks.com
matronics.com/contribution
========== ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
========== cs.com
========== matronics.com/contribution
==========
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
02/21/16
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short! |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Yep, I've used the longer lines down the gear legs, thanks for the heads up R
ick.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 22 Feb 2016, at 06:48, Rick & Sandra Lark wrote:
>
> Patrick, I=99m away from my -10 until April 3rd, but I=99m won
dering if you had the wrong lines sent to you. I recall the 31=9D lin
es where for down the gear legs.
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
> Sent: Sunday, 21 February, 2016 2:11 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short!
>
> Thanks Phil
>
> I'm only replacing the lines under the panel. They two in question are way
too short.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
> On 22 Feb 2016, at 02:13, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I believe they modeled them after my setup a number of years ago. Here's a
tour.
>
> https://youtu.be/gemgQmVsOYI
>
> Also, you'll want to make sure you adel clamp the tunnel lines frequently.
They're long so they don't sag down and rub on rivet heads. I used the f
actory clamp locations and then added a 2nd pair between those higher on the
tunnel walls. So it kinda makes some S-Turns down the sides of the tunnel
.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 21, 2016, at 5:01 AM, Patrick Pulis wro
te:
>
>
> Hi team
>
> I purchased to pre-fabricated Bonaco brake lines some time ago and went to
fit them today, however the two lines that interconnect the pilot and co-pi
lot brake master cylinders are only 31.5" long, as opposed to the 43" called
for in the plans.
>
> Has anyone else encountered this problem with the Bonaco brake line kit?
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patri=====================
> http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
==========================
=; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> <="" span="">
> <=========================
=====
>
>
>
>
> =========================
========== >www.buildersbooks.com matronics.com/contribu
tion ========== ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
========== cs.com ========== matron
ics.com/contribution =========
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2016.0.7442 / 02/21/16
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short! |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
I installed my Bonaco brake lines a couple of weeks ago and they fit perfect. Call
Brett to confirm the lengths that he sent you.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453065#453065
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fullsizerender_1_244.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an EFIS system (was "and brand") |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
I was dead set on Dynon. Until I had the opportunity to compare them with Garmin
side by side. When I visited SteinAir I had many of my questions answered. After
I saw the compass/AHRS install for Garmin vs Dynon along with many other
features I changed my mind. I would however recommend that you not purchase the
GPS until just before you start flying. The warranty starts when you buy it.
Stein was extremely helpful and the staff was awesome.
As a pilot by occupation, I feel that the menus and setup for Garmin favor me over
the Dynon.
My 2 cents
RV-10 QB Fuse/wings
Empennage complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453066#453066
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Titan Engine IO-540 |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Does anyone have this engine on order? Any feedback on Titan engines?
I ordered my IO-540 and expect delivery in May/June. Curious to hear about your
experience. Especially now that they are owned by Continental Motors.
Tal Holloway
RV-10 QB fuselage/wings
Empennage complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453067#453067
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Brake Lines Too Short! |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
All good. My error.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 22 Feb 2016, at 23:01, whodja wrote:
>
>
> I installed my Bonaco brake lines a couple of weeks ago and they fit perfect.
Call Brett to confirm the lengths that he sent you.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453065#453065
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/fullsizerender_1_244.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Glare-shield painting |
Guys
Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of your -10:
Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the glare-shield
which protrudes above the instrument panel?
And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2 surfaces?
TIA
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
Carlos,
I went with flat black, trusty Rust-Oleum if I remember correctly. Its been
9 1/2 years with no issues whatsoever and no problem with glare either. I painted
the bottom white to match my instrument panel. I painted it after installation
but before putting the windshield in.
If you are going to put any cooling fans in the glare shield I recommend you make
the cutouts before installing, I know its a bit of a pain to do them later
on :( One or two computer cooling fans helps with cooling the avionics as well
as being a natural defogger.
Have fun,
Marcus
On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
Guys
Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of your -10:
Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the glare-shield
which protrudes above the instrument panel?
And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2 surfaces?
TIA
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
On 2/23/2016 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Guys
>
> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of your -10:
>
> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
Flat black.
> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the glare-shield
which protrudes above the instrument panel?
I painted mine the same color (colour) as my instrument panel ....
rust-oleum # 7223 sandstone, It's in the 'textured' area. I painted my
tunnel cover and the overhead plenum the same color.
> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2 surfaces?
I painted the glareshield before I riveted on the fwd upper fuse, just
before I installed the cabin top and windshield. I painted the aft
underside two weeks ago because my first attempt peeled .... probably
poor prep on my part. Lots of masking tape and paper since the interior
was already painted.
Linn .... painting the FG parts .... white.
>
> TIA
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
RustOlium dark brown (I forget the official color), flat, top and underside. Fan
holes drilled first. Painted in place but no windscreen, no instrument panel.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453105#453105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I have been wondering about how hard it should be push the locking tab on a fuel
cap into place. One of mine was very, very difficult so I ended up backing off
the retaining nut.
Anyway, is there any lubrication (fuel lube perhaps) required.
How snug should the tab be?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453106#453106
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
The thermos bottle caps take some regular maintenance. You'll need a
little light grease on the lobe of the handle cam. I found a grease called
Krytox (sorry, there are several types and I don't recall which I went
with) for the oring. Works great.
Fuel lube, contrary to what the name implies, is really a sealant and will
gum up the works in short order. It works best to lube pipe threads, etc.
between dissimilar metals, ie, to prevent galling aluminum pumps and such.
And it's fuel proof, but not exactly slippery.
--Dave
On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 6:14 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I have been wondering about how hard it should be push the locking tab on
> a fuel cap into place. One of mine was very, very difficult so I ended up
> backing off the retaining nut.
>
> Anyway, is there any lubrication (fuel lube perhaps) required.
>
> How snug should the tab be?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453106#453106
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
While not identical, Beech and Mooney fuel caps require something like
Triflow or silicone lube on O-rings. I've also used DC-4 where I wanted
to last longer...same stuff you use on oil filter o-ring.
On 2/23/2016 7:14 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I have been wondering about how hard it should be push the locking tab on a fuel
cap into place. One of mine was very, very difficult so I ended up backing
off the retaining nut.
>
> Anyway, is there any lubrication (fuel lube perhaps) required.
>
> How snug should the tab be?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453106#453106
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
I found my old order for Krytox:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#dupont-krytox-gpl-206-grease/=119achu
A 1/2 oz tube has lasted for a couple seasons now-- $$$ but worth it.
Avgas doesn't seem to phase it.
I only use it on the fuel cap orings.
--Dave
On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 7:05 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> While not identical, Beech and Mooney fuel caps require something like
> Triflow or silicone lube on O-rings. I've also used DC-4 where I wanted to
> last longer...same stuff you use on oil filter o-ring.
>
>
> On 2/23/2016 7:14 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> I have been wondering about how hard it should be push the locking tab on
>> a fuel cap into place. One of mine was very, very difficult so I ended up
>> backing off the retaining nut.
>>
>> Anyway, is there any lubrication (fuel lube perhaps) required.
>>
>> How snug should the tab be?
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know.
>>
>> Les
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453106#453106
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Titan Engine IO-540 |
A search on the VAF site will turn up a write-up I did on a factory tour I
took back at Thanksgiving.
-----Original Message-----
From: whodja
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2016 7:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Titan Engine IO-540
Does anyone have this engine on order? Any feedback on Titan engines?
I ordered my IO-540 and expect delivery in May/June. Curious to hear about
your experience. Especially now that they are owned by Continental Motors.
Tal Holloway
RV-10 QB fuselage/wings
Empennage complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453067#453067
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
Flat black, probably Rustoleum, but don't really remember. Underside same tan as
panel. Cut openings for vent fans prior to paint and windshield installation.
850 hours and 7 1/2 years later it is still looking good
David Maib
> On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
>
> Guys
>
> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of your -10:
>
> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
>
> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the glare-shield
which protrudes above the instrument panel?
>
> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2 surfaces?
>
> TIA
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Glare-shield painting |
I got some dashboard material from Cleveland and it works great. You just
glue it in. Also got the trim piece from them.
Attached a picture....not a great one. I did this after the wind screen was
in.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glare-shield painting
Flat black, probably Rustoleum, but don't really remember. Underside same
tan as panel. Cut openings for vent fans prior to paint and windshield
installation. 850 hours and 7 1/2 years later it is still looking good
David Maib
> On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
>
> Guys
>
> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of your
-10:
>
> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
>
> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the
glare-shield which protrudes above the instrument panel?
>
> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2
surfaces?
>
> TIA
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
I used a spray on, black bed liner product from a local auto parts
store.
Put on several coats till the can was gone. Zero glare or windscreen
reflection as well as non-slip. Tough as nails.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
> On Feb 24, 2016, at 9:16 AM, Rene wrote:
>
> I got some dashboard material from Cleveland and it works great. You
just
> glue it in. Also got the trim piece from them.
>
> Attached a picture....not a great one. I did this after the wind
screen was
> in.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
] On Behalf Of David Maib
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 7:38 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glare-shield painting
>
>
> Flat black, probably Rustoleum, but don't really remember. Underside
same
> tan as panel. Cut openings for vent fans prior to paint and windshield
> installation. 850 hours and 7 1/2 years later it is still looking good
>
> David Maib
>
>
>> On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo
wrote:
>>
>>
>> Guys
>>
>> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of
your
> -10:
>>
>> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
>>
>> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the
> glare-shield which protrudes above the instrument panel?
>>
>> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2
> surfaces?
>>
>> TIA
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
Sorry for the multiple posts!
I was getting a delivery error.
Dave Leikam
> On Feb 24, 2016, at 3:09 PM, David Leikam wrote:
>
> I used a spray on, black bed liner product from a local auto parts
store.
> Put on several coats till the can was gone. Zero glare or windscreen
reflection as well as non-slip. Tough as nails.
>
> Dave Leikam
> N89DA
>
>
>> On Feb 24, 2016, at 9:16 AM, Rene > wrote:
>>
>> I got some dashboard material from Cleveland and it works great. You
just
>> glue it in. Also got the trim piece from them.
>>
>> Attached a picture....not a great one. I did this after the wind
screen was
>> in.
>>
>> Rene'
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
] On Behalf Of David Maib
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 7:38 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glare-shield painting
>>
>
>>
>> Flat black, probably Rustoleum, but don't really remember. Underside
same
>> tan as panel. Cut openings for vent fans prior to paint and
windshield
>> installation. 850 hours and 7 1/2 years later it is still looking
good
>>
>> David Maib
>>
>>
>>> On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo > wrote:
>>>
>
>>>
>>> Guys
>>>
>>> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of
your
>> -10:
>>>
>>> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
>>>
>>> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the
>> glare-shield which protrudes above the instrument panel?
>>>
>>> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2
>> surfaces?
>>>
>>> TIA
>>> Carlos
>>>
>>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my
system since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in my
control sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the brass
bushings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans to help
with the explanation.
After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce. I
ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit without
any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to something
closer to proper size for a good fit in the control stick base. Each stick
was about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in ordering both.
I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane and
put it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play between
the brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I tried the
3/8" rod to see how well it fit and it dropped straight through
unrestricted. The inside of the welded stick bases were way more than the
spec'd 3/8". That was one part of the problem. The other part of the
problem was the slop on the inside of the bushing between the bushing and
the 1/4" bolt. That slop was worse than the welded part. Additionally I
found one more location for slop and that was the ability to slide the
stick forward and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the
control column that the stick bases mount to.
The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out. Since
the stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod and turned
it down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It was turned
down until it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the
center. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for the
1/4" bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the skinny
side of the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had to open
it to a full 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was
free of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the bushing
and the bolt.
The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward
and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column.
This was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers to
shim as much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get all of
the gap out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by tightening
the nut and pulling the control column in tighter on the stick bases.
I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I rotated
the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a time.
Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off one
flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus the
drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks in
opposition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find any
play. You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold it tight
while wiggling the stick and not find any play between the control surface
and stick. I'm very happy with the outcome.
This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and
access to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You
certainly could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative
jigs, patience, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse
the learning curve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
Phil
[image: Inline image 1]
[image: Inline image 2]
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my
> sloppiness.
>
> I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a
> 3/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in
> the mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit
> without any working (though I doubt it).
>
> Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends
> lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another
> reamer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if
> it's too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
>
> I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or
> possibly late next week.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
> >
> >
> > I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them
> down a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 for sale
> > RV10 building
> > Cadillac, MI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
=9DI tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing.
I rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat
at a time. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and
backed off one flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it
into position.=9D
Perhaps I=99m reading this wrong. I thought the objective was for
the bolt to capture the bushing so that there is no relative motion
between the bolt and the bushing. All relative motion should be between
the outside of the bushing and the weldment (in this case the Control
Stick Base Pivot Tube).
I also believe adding a light grease for the bushing to weldment
provides for reduced corrosion between the dissimilar metals =93
obviously not an issue when using delrin but perhaps would help keep
dirt out of the bearing surface.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my
system since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in
my control sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the
brass bushings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans
to help with the explanation.
After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce.
I ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit
without any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to
something closer to proper size for a good fit in the control stick
base. Each stick was about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in
ordering both.
I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane
and put it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play
between the brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I
tried the 3/8" rod to see how well it fit and it dropped straight
through unrestricted. The inside of the welded stick bases were way
more than the spec'd 3/8". That was one part of the problem. The other
part of the problem was the slop on the inside of the bushing between
the bushing and the 1/4" bolt. That slop was worse than the welded
part. Additionally I found one more location for slop and that was the
ability to slide the stick forward and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the
stick bases and the control column that the stick bases mount to.
The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out.
Since the stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod
and turned it down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It
was turned down until it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the
center. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for
the 1/4" bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the
skinny side of the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had
to open it to a full 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was
free of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the
bushing and the bolt.
The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward
and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column.
This was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers
to shim as much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get
all of the gap out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by
tightening the nut and pulling the control column in tighter on the
stick bases.
I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I
rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a
time. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed
off one flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into
position.
The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus
the drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks
in opposition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find
any play. You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold
it tight while wiggling the stick and not find any play between the
control surface and stick. I'm very happy with the outcome.
This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and
access to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You
certainly could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative
jigs, patience, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse
the learning curve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
Phil
Inline image 1
Inline image 2
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry
wrote:
I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my
sloppiness.
I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a
3/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming
in the mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would
fit without any working (though I doubt it).
Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a
friends lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using
another reamer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first.
Then if it's too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other
reamer.
I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or
possibly late next week.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding
them down a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a
little.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>
>
============
h --
EE Gifts!)
on
r> ed
://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
ion" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
============
br> ?RV10-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
============
S WEB FORUMS -
="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
============
on Web Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ion" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part. That we
lded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and it's also rough, a
brasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for abrasion and wear.
If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and smooth pi
vot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running the nut off.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Carl Froehlich w
rote:
>
> =9DI tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I
rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a ti
me. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off on
e flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
=9D
>
> Perhaps I=99m reading this wrong. I thought the objective was for t
he bolt to capture the bushing so that there is no relative motion between t
he bolt and the bushing. All relative motion should be between the outside o
f the bushing and the weldment (in this case the Control Stick Base Pivot Tu
be).
>
> I also believe adding a light grease for the bushing to weldment provides f
or reduced corrosion between the dissimilar metals =93 obviously not a
n issue when using delrin but perhaps would help keep dirt out of the bearin
g surface.
>
> Carl
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:53 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
>
> I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my s
ystem since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in my c
ontrol sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the brass bu
shings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans to help wit
h the explanation.
>
> After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce. I
ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit without
any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to something clo
ser to proper size for a good fit in the control stick base. Each stick was
about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in ordering both.
>
> I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane and p
ut it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play between the
brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I tried the 3/8" ro
d to see how well it fit and it dropped straight through unrestricted. The i
nside of the welded stick bases were way more than the spec'd 3/8". That wa
s one part of the problem. The other part of the problem was the slop on th
e inside of the bushing between the bushing and the 1/4" bolt. That slop wa
s worse than the welded part. Additionally I found one more location for sl
op and that was the ability to slide the stick forward and aft on the 1/4" b
olt between the stick bases and the control column that the stick bases moun
t to.
>
> The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out. Since t
he stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod and turned it
down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It was turned down u
ntil it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
>
> The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the ce
nter. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for the 1/4"
bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the skinny side o
f the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had to open it to a f
ull 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
>
> Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was fr
ee of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the bushing an
d the bolt.
>
> The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward a
nd aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column. Th
is was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers to shim a
s much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get all of the ga
p out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by tightening the nut
and pulling the control column in tighter on the stick bases.
>
> I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I rotated
the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a time. Onc
e I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off one flat w
here I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
>
> The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus the
drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks in opp
osition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find any play.
You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold it tight while w
iggling the stick and not find any play between the control surface and stic
k. I'm very happy with the outcome.
>
> This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and ac
cess to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You certainl
y could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative jigs, patienc
e, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse the learning cur
ve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
>
> I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry wrot
e:
> I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my sloppines
s.
>
> I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a 3
/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in t
he mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit with
out any working (though I doubt it).
>
> Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends
lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another re
amer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if it'
s too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
>
> I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or po
ssibly late next week.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
> >
> >
> > I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them d
own a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 for sale
> > RV10 building
> > Cadillac, MI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ============
> h --
> EE Gifts!)
> on
> r> ed
> ://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.builder
sbooks.com
> ion" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ============
> br> ?RV10-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ============
> S WEB FORUMS -
> ="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ============
> on Web Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ion" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution
> ============
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Also, by putting the motion on the bolt, any future replacement of parts fro
m wear would involve a new bushing and potentially new bolt. Cheap and easy t
o replace.
Putting be motion on the welded piece would lead to a new bushing and potent
ially new weldment. Expensive and more complex to repair.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part. That w
elded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and it's also rough,
abrasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for abrasion and wear.
>
> If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and smooth p
ivot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running the nut off.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Carl Froehlich w
rote:
>>
>> =9DI tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing.
I rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a t
ime. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off o
ne flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
=9D
>>
>> Perhaps I=99m reading this wrong. I thought the objective was for t
he bolt to capture the bushing so that there is no relative motion between t
he bolt and the bushing. All relative motion should be between the outside o
f the bushing and the weldment (in this case the Control Stick Base Pivot Tu
be).
>>
>> I also believe adding a light grease for the bushing to weldment provides
for reduced corrosion between the dissimilar metals =93 obviously not
an issue when using delrin but perhaps would help keep dirt out of the bear
ing surface.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
>> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:53 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
>>
>> I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my s
ystem since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in my c
ontrol sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the brass bu
shings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans to help wit
h the explanation.
>>
>> After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce. I
ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit without
any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to something clo
ser to proper size for a good fit in the control stick base. Each stick was
about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in ordering both.
>>
>> I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane and
put it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play between t
he brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I tried the 3/8" r
od to see how well it fit and it dropped straight through unrestricted. The
inside of the welded stick bases were way more than the spec'd 3/8". That w
as one part of the problem. The other part of the problem was the slop on t
he inside of the bushing between the bushing and the 1/4" bolt. That slop w
as worse than the welded part. Additionally I found one more location for s
lop and that was the ability to slide the stick forward and aft on the 1/4" b
olt between the stick bases and the control column that the stick bases moun
t to.
>>
>> The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out. Since
the stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod and turned i
t down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It was turned down u
ntil it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
>>
>> The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the c
enter. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for the 1/4
" bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the skinny side o
f the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had to open it to a f
ull 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
>>
>> Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was f
ree of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the bushing a
nd the bolt.
>>
>> The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward a
nd aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column. Th
is was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers to shim a
s much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get all of the ga
p out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by tightening the nut
and pulling the control column in tighter on the stick bases.
>>
>> I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I rotate
d the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a time. On
ce I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off one flat w
here I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
>>
>> The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus th
e drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks in op
position directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find any play.
You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold it tight while
wiggling the stick and not find any play between the control surface and st
ick. I'm very happy with the outcome.
>>
>> This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and a
ccess to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You certain
ly could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative jigs, patien
ce, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse the learning cu
rve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
>>
>> I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry wro
te:
>> I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my sloppine
ss.
>>
>> I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a 3
/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in t
he mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit with
out any working (though I doubt it).
>>
>> Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friend
s lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another r
eamer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if it
's too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
>>
>> I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or p
ossibly late next week.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them
down a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
>> >
>> > --------
>> > Dave Ford
>> > RV6 for sale
>> > RV10 building
>> > Cadillac, MI
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> ============
>> h --
>> EE Gifts!)
>> on
>> r> ed
>> ://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.builde
rsbooks.com
>> ion" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ============
>> br> ?RV10-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ============
>> S WEB FORUMS -
>> ="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ============
>> on Web Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ion" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
>> ============
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Phil beat me to it. You're absolutely right.
(I like yours and Seans solution by the way)
The housing on the outside of the bushing isn't
really round, so you wouldn't want it to rotate on the
bushing there. If it DID wear, it could potentially wear
a larger hole in the housing, which would then be harder
to fix later. If you rotate it on the bolt, a simple
change of bolt and you're back to normal specs. The
Delrin should work real well.
This whole mess happened on mine, and I used a filler to
surround the bushing and basically "epoxy" it in to the
weldment. That way it can only rotate on the bolt.
And I took up the end slop as well...also out in the
aileron bellcranks. You should look at those areas and
think about where wear is going to happen, and try to
ensure that any surface that will wear, is a replaceable
part. You will find there are a few places that can
be improved upon from the plans...just like the
original nose gear axle...that was a horrible design
until they went with thicker spacer...then it was just
a bad design. The Matco axle is a great improvement.
Tim
On 2/25/2016 9:50 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Also, by putting the motion on the bolt, any future replacement of parts
> from wear would involve a new bushing and potentially new bolt. Cheap
> and easy to replace.
>
> Putting be motion on the welded piece would lead to a new bushing and
> potentially new weldment. Expensive and more complex to repair.
>
> Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Phillip Perry > wrote:
>
>> You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part.
>> That welded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and
>> it's also rough, abrasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for
>> abrasion and wear.
>>
>> If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and
>> smooth pivot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running
>> the nut off.
>>
>> PhilI'm very happy with the
>>> outcome.
>>>
>>> This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out
>>> and access to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day.
>>> You certainly could do it on a drill press with some forethought.
>>> creative jigs, patience, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while
>>> you traverse the learning curve, but the lathe is certainly the
>>> fastest and easiest.
>>>
>>> I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
>>>
>>> Phil
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Thanks Phil =93 but I=99ll have to disagree.
Relative motion between the bushing and bolt means you have small
bearing surfaces, and a nice hard steel bolt wearing steel mating
surfaces (the bolt holes in the weldment). The function of the bushing
is to provide a large bearing surface (between the bushing and the pivot
tube). The larger surface area contributes to why we enjoy such smooth
controls in our RVs. The same principle applies to bell cranks and rod
end bearings =93 no relative motion around the bolt.
There is need from time to time to shorten either the pivot tube or
bushing to achieve slop free operation. You rare cases you may also
find need to ream out the pivot tube. The bushing, when firmly captured
in the weldment, should have perhaps 1/32=9D exposed on each side
of the pivot tube. If needed washers are added to make sure the
weldment is not deformed when the bolt is tightened =93 thus
maintaining this small gap and preventing binding. Again a little
grease between the bushing and pivot tube is recommended.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
Also, by putting the motion on the bolt, any future replacement of parts
from wear would involve a new bushing and potentially new bolt. Cheap
and easy to replace.
Putting be motion on the welded piece would lead to a new bushing and
potentially new weldment. Expensive and more complex to repair.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part.
That welded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and it's
also rough, abrasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for
abrasion and wear.
If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and
smooth pivot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running
the nut off.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
=9DI tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing.
I rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat
at a time. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and
backed off one flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it
into position.=9D
Perhaps I=99m reading this wrong. I thought the objective was for
the bolt to capture the bushing so that there is no relative motion
between the bolt and the bushing. All relative motion should be between
the outside of the bushing and the weldment (in this case the Control
Stick Base Pivot Tube).
I also believe adding a light grease for the bushing to weldment
provides for reduced corrosion between the dissimilar metals =93
obviously not an issue when using delrin but perhaps would help keep
dirt out of the bearing surface.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my
system since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in
my control sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the
brass bushings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans
to help with the explanation.
After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce.
I ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit
without any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to
something closer to proper size for a good fit in the control stick
base. Each stick was about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in
ordering both.
I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane
and put it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play
between the brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I
tried the 3/8" rod to see how well it fit and it dropped straight
through unrestricted. The inside of the welded stick bases were way
more than the spec'd 3/8". That was one part of the problem. The other
part of the problem was the slop on the inside of the bushing between
the bushing and the 1/4" bolt. That slop was worse than the welded
part. Additionally I found one more location for slop and that was the
ability to slide the stick forward and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the
stick bases and the control column that the stick bases mount to.
The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out.
Since the stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod
and turned it down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It
was turned down until it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the
center. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for
the 1/4" bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the
skinny side of the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had
to open it to a full 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was
free of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the
bushing and the bolt.
The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward
and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column.
This was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers
to shim as much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get
all of the gap out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by
tightening the nut and pulling the control column in tighter on the
stick bases.
I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I
rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a
time. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed
off one flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into
position.
The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus
the drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks
in opposition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find
any play. You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold
it tight while wiggling the stick and not find any play between the
control surface and stick. I'm very happy with the outcome.
This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and
access to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You
certainly could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative
jigs, patience, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse
the learning curve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
Phil
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry
wrote:
I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my
sloppiness.
I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a
3/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming
in the mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would
fit without any working (though I doubt it).
Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a
friends lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using
another reamer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first.
Then if it's too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other
reamer.
I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or
possibly late next week.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding
them down a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a
little.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>
>
============
h --
EE Gifts!)
on
r> ed
://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
ion" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
============
br> ?RV10-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
============
S WEB FORUMS -
="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
============
on Web Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ion" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
I thought about JB welding my bushing to the weldment or Lok-Tite. Both would have
helped significantly reduce the play. But I had so much slop on the inside
of the bushing that it still would have been notable.
If you don't have that much slop on the inside of the bushing, Tim's solution to
permanently place the bushing inside he weldment could work really well for
you.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 10:19 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Phil beat me to it. You're absolutely right.
> (I like yours and Seans solution by the way)
> The housing on the outside of the bushing isn't
> really round, so you wouldn't want it to rotate on the
> bushing there. If it DID wear, it could potentially wear
> a larger hole in the housing, which would then be harder
> to fix later. If you rotate it on the bolt, a simple
> change of bolt and you're back to normal specs. The
> Delrin should work real well.
>
> This whole mess happened on mine, and I used a filler to
> surround the bushing and basically "epoxy" it in to the
> weldment. That way it can only rotate on the bolt.
> And I took up the end slop as well...also out in the
> aileron bellcranks. You should look at those areas and
> think about where wear is going to happen, and try to
> ensure that any surface that will wear, is a replaceable
> part. You will find there are a few places that can
> be improved upon from the plans...just like the
> original nose gear axle...that was a horrible design
> until they went with thicker spacer...then it was just
> a bad design. The Matco axle is a great improvement.
> Tim
>
>
>> On 2/25/2016 9:50 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>> Also, by putting the motion on the bolt, any future replacement of parts
>> from wear would involve a new bushing and potentially new bolt. Cheap
>> and easy to replace.
>>
>> Putting be motion on the welded piece would lead to a new bushing and
>> potentially new weldment. Expensive and more complex to repair.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Phillip Perry > > wrote:
>>
>>> You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part.
>>> That welded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and
>>> it's also rough, abrasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for
>>> abrasion and wear.
>>>
>>> If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and
>>> smooth pivot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running
>>> the nut off.
>>>
>>> PhilI'm very happy with the
>>>> outcome.
>>>>
>>>> This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out
>>>> and access to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day.
>>>> You certainly could do it on a drill press with some forethought.
>>>> creative jigs, patience, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while
>>>> you traverse the learning curve, but the lathe is certainly the
>>>> fastest and easiest.
>>>>
>>>> I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
>>>>
>>>> Phil
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Yeah, except I think Delrin is a better solution for the long
term. Cheap, and easy to replace.
I did see Carl's reply about the outer surface being required
to be the pivot point for smooth control operation, but I
just have to totally disagree. The controls when pivoting
on the bolt are very very smooth. And when you get the play
out of the system it's just sweet. My sticks flop around
easily with no effort. And, if the bolt does start to wear,
it will be easy to detect because the slop will come back.
In either the case of the Delrin, or the brass/bronze,
I think it'll be a long long time to wait to worry
about it. I lube mine occasionally but I'm up to over
1100 hours and have found no slop yet. I'll be surprised
if the bolt doesn't last 2000+ hours.
Tim
On 2/25/2016 10:34 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>
> I thought about JB welding my bushing to the weldment or Lok-Tite.
> Both would have helped significantly reduce the play. But I had so
> much slop on the inside of the bushing that it still would have been
> notable.
>
> If you don't have that much slop on the inside of the bushing, Tim's
> solution to permanently place the bushing inside he weldment could
> work really well for you.
>
> Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Feb 25, 2016, at 10:19 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> Phil beat me to it. You're absolutely right. (I like yours and
>> Seans solution by the way) The housing on the outside of the
>> bushing isn't really round, so you wouldn't want it to rotate on
>> the bushing there. If it DID wear, it could potentially wear a
>> larger hole in the housing, which would then be harder to fix
>> later. If you rotate it on the bolt, a simple change of bolt and
>> you're back to normal specs. The Delrin should work real well.
>>
>> This whole mess happened on mine, and I used a filler to surround
>> the bushing and basically "epoxy" it in to the weldment. That way
>> it can only rotate on the bolt. And I took up the end slop as
>> well...also out in the aileron bellcranks. You should look at
>> those areas and think about where wear is going to happen, and try
>> to ensure that any surface that will wear, is a replaceable part.
>> You will find there are a few places that can be improved upon from
>> the plans...just like the original nose gear axle...that was a
>> horrible design until they went with thicker spacer...then it was
>> just a bad design. The Matco axle is a great improvement. Tim
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
As Tim said, according to the plans you're right.
But after digging into the problem in more detail and understanding the issu
es with the inconsistent weldment and poor fit of the bushing, I believe the
plans are the worst possible solution and can be improved on.
Will the plans work? Yes, for most people. But in my case I had tolerance s
tacking with multiple loose surfaces compounding into a more significant and
noticeable problem.
Now the controls have zero slop and are silky smooth and consistent through f
ull movement in all directions.
There's no doubt that the modification to the plans improved the control sys
tem in my plane greatly.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 10:28 AM, Carl Froehlich w
rote:
>
> Thanks Phil =93 but I=99ll have to disagree.
>
> Relative motion between the bushing and bolt means you have small bearing s
urfaces, and a nice hard steel bolt wearing steel mating surfaces (the bolt h
oles in the weldment). The function of the bushing is to provide a large be
aring surface (between the bushing and the pivot tube). The larger surface a
rea contributes to why we enjoy such smooth controls in our RVs. The same p
rinciple applies to bell cranks and rod end bearings =93 no relative m
otion around the bolt.
>
> There is need from time to time to shorten either the pivot tube or bushin
g to achieve slop free operation. You rare cases you may also find need to r
eam out the pivot tube. The bushing, when firmly captured in the weldment, s
hould have perhaps 1/32=9D exposed on each side of the pivot tube. If
needed washers are added to make sure the weldment is not deformed when the
bolt is tightened =93 thus maintaining this small gap and preventing b
inding. Again a little grease between the bushing and pivot tube is recomme
nded.
>
> Carl
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 10:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
>
> Also, by putting the motion on the bolt, any future replacement of parts f
rom wear would involve a new bushing and potentially new bolt. Cheap and eas
y to replace.
>
> Putting be motion on the welded piece would lead to a new bushing and pote
ntially new weldment. Expensive and more complex to repair.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part. That w
elded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and it's also rough,
abrasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for abrasion and wear.
>
> If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and smooth p
ivot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running the nut off.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Carl Froehlich w
rote:
>
> =9DI tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I
rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a ti
me. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off on
e flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
=9D
>
> Perhaps I=99m reading this wrong. I thought the objective was for t
he bolt to capture the bushing so that there is no relative motion between t
he bolt and the bushing. All relative motion should be between the outside o
f the bushing and the weldment (in this case the Control Stick Base Pivot Tu
be).
>
> I also believe adding a light grease for the bushing to weldment provides f
or reduced corrosion between the dissimilar metals =93 obviously not a
n issue when using delrin but perhaps would help keep dirt out of the bearin
g surface.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:53 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
>
> I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my s
ystem since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in my c
ontrol sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the brass bu
shings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans to help wit
h the explanation.
>
> After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce. I
ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit without
any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to something clo
ser to proper size for a good fit in the control stick base. Each stick was
about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in ordering both.
>
> I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane and p
ut it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play between the
brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I tried the 3/8" ro
d to see how well it fit and it dropped straight through unrestricted. The i
nside of the welded stick bases were way more than the spec'd 3/8". That wa
s one part of the problem. The other part of the problem was the slop on th
e inside of the bushing between the bushing and the 1/4" bolt. That slop wa
s worse than the welded part. Additionally I found one more location for sl
op and that was the ability to slide the stick forward and aft on the 1/4" b
olt between the stick bases and the control column that the stick bases moun
t to.
>
> The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out. Since t
he stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod and turned it
down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It was turned down u
ntil it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
>
> The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the ce
nter. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for the 1/4"
bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the skinny side o
f the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had to open it to a f
ull 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
>
> Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was fr
ee of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the bushing an
d the bolt.
>
> The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward a
nd aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column. Th
is was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers to shim a
s much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get all of the ga
p out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by tightening the nut
and pulling the control column in tighter on the stick bases.
>
> I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I rotated
the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a time. Onc
e I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off one flat w
here I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
>
> The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus the
drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks in opp
osition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find any play.
You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold it tight while w
iggling the stick and not find any play between the control surface and stic
k. I'm very happy with the outcome.
>
> This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and ac
cess to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You certainl
y could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative jigs, patienc
e, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse the learning cur
ve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
>
> I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry wrot
e:
> I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my sloppines
s.
>
> I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a 3
/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in t
he mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit with
out any working (though I doubt it).
>
> Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends
lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another re
amer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if it'
s too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
>
> I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or po
ssibly late next week.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
> >
> >
> > I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them d
own a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 for sale
> > RV10 building
> > Cadillac, MI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ============
> h --
> EE Gifts!)
> on
> r> ed
> ://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.builder
sbooks.com
> ion" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ============
> br> ?RV10-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ============
> S WEB FORUMS -
> ="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ============
> on Web Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ion" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution
> ============
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Ok Phil & Tim.
For those reading however I want to emphasize you have transformed a
large surface area soft brass bushing (the wear element) in a steel tube
bearing to a =9Cknife edge=9D bearing with a steel bolt
riding on the small steel weldment bolt hole tabs. It will work, but
for most I offer careful assembly of these bearings, bell cranks and
such per plans would be the best option. For both of my planes I too
enjoy smooth, no slop controls.
Now going back into the woodwork..
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
As Tim said, according to the plans you're right.
But after digging into the problem in more detail and understanding the
issues with the inconsistent weldment and poor fit of the bushing, I
believe the plans are the worst possible solution and can be improved
on.
Will the plans work? Yes, for most people. But in my case I had
tolerance stacking with multiple loose surfaces compounding into a more
significant and noticeable problem.
Now the controls have zero slop and are silky smooth and consistent
through full movement in all directions.
There's no doubt that the modification to the plans improved the control
system in my plane greatly.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 10:28 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
Thanks Phil =93 but I=99ll have to disagree.
Relative motion between the bushing and bolt means you have small
bearing surfaces, and a nice hard steel bolt wearing steel mating
surfaces (the bolt holes in the weldment). The function of the bushing
is to provide a large bearing surface (between the bushing and the pivot
tube). The larger surface area contributes to why we enjoy such smooth
controls in our RVs. The same principle applies to bell cranks and rod
end bearings =93 no relative motion around the bolt.
There is need from time to time to shorten either the pivot tube or
bushing to achieve slop free operation. You rare cases you may also
find need to ream out the pivot tube. The bushing, when firmly captured
in the weldment, should have perhaps 1/32=9D exposed on each side
of the pivot tube. If needed washers are added to make sure the
weldment is not deformed when the bolt is tightened =93 thus
maintaining this small gap and preventing binding. Again a little
grease between the bushing and pivot tube is recommended.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
Also, by putting the motion on the bolt, any future replacement of parts
from wear would involve a new bushing and potentially new bolt. Cheap
and easy to replace.
Putting be motion on the welded piece would lead to a new bushing and
potentially new weldment. Expensive and more complex to repair.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part.
That welded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and it's
also rough, abrasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for
abrasion and wear.
If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and
smooth pivot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running
the nut off.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
=9DI tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing.
I rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat
at a time. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and
backed off one flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it
into position.=9D
Perhaps I=99m reading this wrong. I thought the objective was for
the bolt to capture the bushing so that there is no relative motion
between the bolt and the bushing. All relative motion should be between
the outside of the bushing and the weldment (in this case the Control
Stick Base Pivot Tube).
I also believe adding a light grease for the bushing to weldment
provides for reduced corrosion between the dissimilar metals =93
obviously not an issue when using delrin but perhaps would help keep
dirt out of the bearing surface.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my
system since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in
my control sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the
brass bushings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans
to help with the explanation.
After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce.
I ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit
without any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to
something closer to proper size for a good fit in the control stick
base. Each stick was about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in
ordering both.
I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane
and put it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play
between the brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I
tried the 3/8" rod to see how well it fit and it dropped straight
through unrestricted. The inside of the welded stick bases were way
more than the spec'd 3/8". That was one part of the problem. The other
part of the problem was the slop on the inside of the bushing between
the bushing and the 1/4" bolt. That slop was worse than the welded
part. Additionally I found one more location for slop and that was the
ability to slide the stick forward and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the
stick bases and the control column that the stick bases mount to.
The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out.
Since the stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod
and turned it down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It
was turned down until it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the
center. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for
the 1/4" bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the
skinny side of the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had
to open it to a full 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was
free of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the
bushing and the bolt.
The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward
and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column.
This was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers
to shim as much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get
all of the gap out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by
tightening the nut and pulling the control column in tighter on the
stick bases.
I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I
rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a
time. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed
off one flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into
position.
The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus
the drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks
in opposition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find
any play. You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold
it tight while wiggling the stick and not find any play between the
control surface and stick. I'm very happy with the outcome.
This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and
access to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You
certainly could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative
jigs, patience, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse
the learning curve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
Phil
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry
wrote:
I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my
sloppiness.
I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a
3/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming
in the mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would
fit without any working (though I doubt it).
Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a
friends lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using
another reamer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first.
Then if it's too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other
reamer.
I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or
possibly late next week.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding
them down a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a
little.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>
>
============
h --
EE Gifts!)
on
r> ed
://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
ion" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
============
br> ?RV10-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
============
S WEB FORUMS -
="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
============
on Web Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ion" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I think if they REALLY wanted it to be that way, the way
the weldment is produced is very poor. They should have a
machined hole through the weldment, not that bent metal
seam where the parts come together. It would need to be
made with much more precision. If nothing else, a
different solution would be to glue in a stainless or
steel sleeve of some sort, that is thinner, to provide a
nice consistent bore. Then the bushing could be sized to
fit and it would be more precise. But the weldment isn't
a precision bore of any sort.
And so, as we talked about, you consider the long term wear
implications, it's just much easier for long term maintenance
to make the bolt (and bushing) be the easily replaceable items.
And, while I haven't tried this, it certainly would be possible
to use a larger diameter bolt and bore out the delrin bushing,
if you want to use a thicker bolt...but I see no point in that.
Tim
On 2/25/2016 10:54 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> As Tim said, according to the plans you're right.
>
> But after digging into the problem in more detail and understanding the
> issues with the inconsistent weldment and poor fit of the bushing, I
> believe the plans are the worst possible solution and can be improved on.
>
> Will the plans work? Yes, for most people. But in my case I had
> tolerance stacking with multiple loose surfaces compounding into a more
> significant and noticeable problem.
>
> Now the controls have zero slop and are silky smooth and consistent
> through full movement in all directions.
>
> There's no doubt that the modification to the plans improved the control
> system in my plane greatly.
>
> Phil
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
I understand what you're saying now. You're worried about he bolt rotating o
n the steel weldment and having a knife edge wear point. That makes sense.
However, I should point out that the bolt is not rotating at all. Just like
the plans.
Because the bolt doesn't rotate, all of the rotation occurs inside the bushi
ng. The wear surface is the smooth interface between the bolt and the bush
ing and not the bolt and the weldment edges. That would be a mistake as yo
u could saw the bolt right in two and it would be inconsistent too.
The case you're describing isn't an issue.
Here's a video I just shot showing where the rotation occurs.
http://youtu.be/SaywmrHZW24
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 11:24 AM, Carl Froehlich w
rote:
>
> Ok Phil & Tim.
>
> For those reading however I want to emphasize you have transformed a large
surface area soft brass bushing (the wear element) in a steel tube bearing t
o a =9Cknife edge=9D bearing with a steel bolt riding on the sma
ll steel weldment bolt hole tabs. It will work, but for most I offer carefu
l assembly of these bearings, bell cranks and such per plans would be the be
st option. For both of my planes I too enjoy smooth, no slop controls.
>
> Now going back into the woodwork..
>
> Carl
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 11:54 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
>
> As Tim said, according to the plans you're right.
>
> But after digging into the problem in more detail and understanding the is
sues with the inconsistent weldment and poor fit of the bushing, I believe t
he plans are the worst possible solution and can be improved on.
>
> Will the plans work? Yes, for most people. But in my case I had toleranc
e stacking with multiple loose surfaces compounding into a more significant a
nd noticeable problem.
>
> Now the controls have zero slop and are silky smooth and consistent throug
h full movement in all directions.
>
> There's no doubt that the modification to the plans improved the control s
ystem in my plane greatly.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 10:28 AM, Carl Froehlich w
rote:
>
> Thanks Phil =93 but I=99ll have to disagree.
>
> Relative motion between the bushing and bolt means you have small bearing s
urfaces, and a nice hard steel bolt wearing steel mating surfaces (the bolt h
oles in the weldment). The function of the bushing is to provide a large be
aring surface (between the bushing and the pivot tube). The larger surface a
rea contributes to why we enjoy such smooth controls in our RVs. The same p
rinciple applies to bell cranks and rod end bearings =93 no relative m
otion around the bolt.
>
> There is need from time to time to shorten either the pivot tube or bushin
g to achieve slop free operation. You rare cases you may also find need to r
eam out the pivot tube. The bushing, when firmly captured in the weldment, s
hould have perhaps 1/32=9D exposed on each side of the pivot tube. If
needed washers are added to make sure the weldment is not deformed when the
bolt is tightened =93 thus maintaining this small gap and preventing b
inding. Again a little grease between the bushing and pivot tube is recomme
nded.
>
> Carl
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 10:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
>
> Also, by putting the motion on the bolt, any future replacement of parts f
rom wear would involve a new bushing and potentially new bolt. Cheap and eas
y to replace.
>
> Putting be motion on the welded piece would lead to a new bushing and pote
ntially new weldment. Expensive and more complex to repair.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part. That w
elded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and it's also rough,
abrasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for abrasion and wear.
>
> If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and smooth p
ivot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running the nut off.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Carl Froehlich w
rote:
>
> =9DI tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I
rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a ti
me. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off on
e flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
=9D
>
> Perhaps I=99m reading this wrong. I thought the objective was for t
he bolt to capture the bushing so that there is no relative motion between t
he bolt and the bushing. All relative motion should be between the outside o
f the bushing and the weldment (in this case the Control Stick Base Pivot Tu
be).
>
> I also believe adding a light grease for the bushing to weldment provides f
or reduced corrosion between the dissimilar metals =93 obviously not a
n issue when using delrin but perhaps would help keep dirt out of the bearin
g surface.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:53 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
>
> I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my s
ystem since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in my c
ontrol sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the brass bu
shings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans to help wit
h the explanation.
>
> After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce. I
ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit without
any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to something clo
ser to proper size for a good fit in the control stick base. Each stick was
about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in ordering both.
>
> I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane and p
ut it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play between the
brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I tried the 3/8" ro
d to see how well it fit and it dropped straight through unrestricted. The i
nside of the welded stick bases were way more than the spec'd 3/8". That wa
s one part of the problem. The other part of the problem was the slop on th
e inside of the bushing between the bushing and the 1/4" bolt. That slop wa
s worse than the welded part. Additionally I found one more location for sl
op and that was the ability to slide the stick forward and aft on the 1/4" b
olt between the stick bases and the control column that the stick bases moun
t to.
>
> The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out. Since t
he stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod and turned it
down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It was turned down u
ntil it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
>
> The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the ce
nter. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for the 1/4"
bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the skinny side o
f the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had to open it to a f
ull 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
>
> Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was fr
ee of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the bushing an
d the bolt.
>
> The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward a
nd aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column. Th
is was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers to shim a
s much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get all of the ga
p out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by tightening the nut
and pulling the control column in tighter on the stick bases.
>
> I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I rotated
the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a time. Onc
e I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off one flat w
here I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
>
> The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus the
drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks in opp
osition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find any play.
You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold it tight while w
iggling the stick and not find any play between the control surface and stic
k. I'm very happy with the outcome.
>
> This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and ac
cess to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You certainl
y could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative jigs, patienc
e, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse the learning cur
ve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
>
> I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry wrot
e:
> I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my sloppines
s.
>
> I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a 3
/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in t
he mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit with
out any working (though I doubt it).
>
> Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends
lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another re
amer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if it'
s too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
>
> I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or po
ssibly late next week.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
> >
> >
> > I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them d
own a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 for sale
> > RV10 building
> > Cadillac, MI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ============
> h --
> EE Gifts!)
> on
> r> ed
> ://www.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.builder
sbooks.com
> ion" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ============
> br> ?RV10-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ============
> S WEB FORUMS -
> ="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ============
> on Web Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ion" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution
> ============
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Ok =93 again thanks Phil for the explanation, but you pulled me
back out of the woodwork.
You now have the soft delrin rubbing against the steel tabs on the
weldment. The fact that you have no rotation between the bolt and the
steel weldment tabs is by your careful application of torque on the nut.
The delrin rotates around the bolt only because you have, right now,
more friction between the bolt head and nut and the weldment tabs than
you do between the delrin ends and the weldment tabs. Perhaps this
stays the same but I=99d be surprised if the delrin rod end wear
does not open up the joint =93 leaving the bolt loose and free to
rotate in the tabs and end up as I described.
I assume the reason why you did not simply make the delrin as a
replacement for the brass bushing is that you did not like the inside of
the steel bearing tube. You would have a much larger bearing surface
area between the delrin and the steel bearing tube, and a much larger
wear area. Perhaps you got a bad one. I=99ve seen some that
needed to be reamed to size but none that where so bad not to use.
But =93 we all get to build the planes as we want. I have also
deviated from the plans when I did not like a particular design element.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
I understand what you're saying now. You're worried about he bolt
rotating on the steel weldment and having a knife edge wear point.
That makes sense.
However, I should point out that the bolt is not rotating at all. Just
like the plans.
Because the bolt doesn't rotate, all of the rotation occurs inside the
bushing. The wear surface is the smooth interface between the bolt and
the bushing and not the bolt and the weldment edges. That would be a
mistake as you could saw the bolt right in two and it would be
inconsistent too.
The case you're describing isn't an issue.
Here's a video I just shot showing where the rotation occurs.
http://youtu.be/SaywmrHZW24
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 11:24 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
Ok Phil & Tim.
For those reading however I want to emphasize you have transformed a
large surface area soft brass bushing (the wear element) in a steel tube
bearing to a =9Cknife edge=9D bearing with a steel bolt
riding on the small steel weldment bolt hole tabs. It will work, but
for most I offer careful assembly of these bearings, bell cranks and
such per plans would be the best option. For both of my planes I too
enjoy smooth, no slop controls.
Now going back into the woodwork..
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
As Tim said, according to the plans you're right.
But after digging into the problem in more detail and understanding the
issues with the inconsistent weldment and poor fit of the bushing, I
believe the plans are the worst possible solution and can be improved
on.
Will the plans work? Yes, for most people. But in my case I had
tolerance stacking with multiple loose surfaces compounding into a more
significant and noticeable problem.
Now the controls have zero slop and are silky smooth and consistent
through full movement in all directions.
There's no doubt that the modification to the plans improved the control
system in my plane greatly.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 10:28 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
Thanks Phil =93 but I=99ll have to disagree.
Relative motion between the bushing and bolt means you have small
bearing surfaces, and a nice hard steel bolt wearing steel mating
surfaces (the bolt holes in the weldment). The function of the bushing
is to provide a large bearing surface (between the bushing and the pivot
tube). The larger surface area contributes to why we enjoy such smooth
controls in our RVs. The same principle applies to bell cranks and rod
end bearings =93 no relative motion around the bolt.
There is need from time to time to shorten either the pivot tube or
bushing to achieve slop free operation. You rare cases you may also
find need to ream out the pivot tube. The bushing, when firmly captured
in the weldment, should have perhaps 1/32=9D exposed on each side
of the pivot tube. If needed washers are added to make sure the
weldment is not deformed when the bolt is tightened =93 thus
maintaining this small gap and preventing binding. Again a little
grease between the bushing and pivot tube is recommended.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
Also, by putting the motion on the bolt, any future replacement of parts
from wear would involve a new bushing and potentially new bolt. Cheap
and easy to replace.
Putting be motion on the welded piece would lead to a new bushing and
potentially new weldment. Expensive and more complex to repair.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
You want the pivot point on the bolt and not the steel welded part.
That welded part isn't perfectly round (oblong) from the heat and it's
also rough, abrasive, and susceptible to rust - contributing for
abrasion and wear.
If you keep the motion on the bolt, you have a perfectly round and
smooth pivot point. The nut is pinned so there's no chance of running
the nut off.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
=9DI tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing.
I rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat
at a time. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and
backed off one flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it
into position.=9D
Perhaps I=99m reading this wrong. I thought the objective was for
the bolt to capture the bushing so that there is no relative motion
between the bolt and the bushing. All relative motion should be between
the outside of the bushing and the weldment (in this case the Control
Stick Base Pivot Tube).
I also believe adding a light grease for the bushing to weldment
provides for reduced corrosion between the dissimilar metals =93
obviously not an issue when using delrin but perhaps would help keep
dirt out of the bearing surface.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings
I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my
system since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in
my control sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the
brass bushings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans
to help with the explanation.
After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce.
I ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit
without any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to
something closer to proper size for a good fit in the control stick
base. Each stick was about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in
ordering both.
I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane
and put it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play
between the brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I
tried the 3/8" rod to see how well it fit and it dropped straight
through unrestricted. The inside of the welded stick bases were way
more than the spec'd 3/8". That was one part of the problem. The other
part of the problem was the slop on the inside of the bushing between
the bushing and the 1/4" bolt. That slop was worse than the welded
part. Additionally I found one more location for slop and that was the
ability to slide the stick forward and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the
stick bases and the control column that the stick bases mount to.
The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out.
Since the stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod
and turned it down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It
was turned down until it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the
center. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for
the 1/4" bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the
skinny side of the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had
to open it to a full 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was
free of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the
bushing and the bolt.
The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward
and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column.
This was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers
to shim as much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get
all of the gap out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by
tightening the nut and pulling the control column in tighter on the
stick bases.
I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I
rotated the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a
time. Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed
off one flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into
position.
The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus
the drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks
in opposition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find
any play. You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold
it tight while wiggling the stick and not find any play between the
control surface and stick. I'm very happy with the outcome.
This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and
access to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You
certainly could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative
jigs, patience, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse
the learning curve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
Phil
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry
wrote:
I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my
sloppiness.
I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a
3/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming
in the mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would
fit without any working (though I doubt it).
Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a
friends lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using
another reamer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first.
Then if it's too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other
reamer.
I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or
possibly late next week.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding
them down a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a
little.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>
>
============
h --
EE Gifts!)
on
r> ed
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target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
ion" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
============
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target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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on Web Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
ion" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)planearound.com> |
Nice work Phil!
Delrin is an amazing material in my opinion. I really don't think mine will ever
wear out. I bet I did the swap more than 350 hours ago and mine feels EXACTLY
the same as it did after installation. If anything was wearing down I think
you would instantly feel the slop again.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
530 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453187#453187
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I agree, Delrin is an amazing material, and it is rather hard as a
plastic goes. Certainly harder than the UHMW that Vans uses for some
friction sizes to prevent wear.
It also has had weird uses, like the Army had disks molded from Delrin
with a knife edge on the inner diameter. Purpose was to allow you to
light it on the knife edge to use as a heating element to warm C rations
in the winter.
On 2/25/2016 1:08 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> Nice work Phil!
>
> Delrin is an amazing material in my opinion. I really don't think mine will
ever wear out. I bet I did the swap more than 350 hours ago and mine feels EXACTLY
the same as it did after installation. If anything was wearing down I think
you would instantly feel the slop again.
>
> --------
> 40936
> RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
> 530 hours
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453187#453187
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
The 6 cylinder P Mags have been out for a while-has anyone on the list
used them and have a report?
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I was not aware that the 6 cylinder P-mags were available. How long have they been
selling them?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453203#453203
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
Latest from their web site:
Note 1/20/16: We are pleased and grateful for the numerous six
cylinder (Series 200) fans anxiously waiting for the product release.
At this point, we are still cleaning up the operating code and
electronics, in preparation for production. Deliveries of proof-sets
were pushed back. Engineering has not yet released them for assembly,
but is expected soon.
On 2/25/2016 10:53 PM, Albert wrote:
> The 6 cylinder P Mags have been out for a while-has anyone on the list
> used them and have a report?
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> RV-10 N991RV
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
This is interesting ....
My buddy, another RV-10 builder, delayed shipment of his Pmags because
he wasn't ready for them and freed his up for another customer .....
Kinda shows that they were either shipping or real close. He'll be
surprised .....
Linn
On 2/26/2016 6:35 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
> Latest from their web site:
>
> Note 1/20/16: We are pleased and grateful for the numerous six
> cylinder (Series 200) fans anxiously waiting for the product release.
> At this point, we are still cleaning up the operating code and
> electronics, in preparation for production. Deliveries of proof-sets
> were pushed back. Engineering has not yet released them for assembly,
> but is expected soon.
>
> On 2/25/2016 10:53 PM, Albert wrote:
>> The 6 cylinder P Mags have been out for a while-has anyone on the list
>> used them and have a report?
>>
>> Albert Gardner
>>
>> RV-10 N991RV
>>
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
I sent a deposit in I think last August when they were expecting
shipments to commence some time in October. I have since acquired a pair
of one-overhaul slick mags and am about to pull the trigger and install
them. Perhaps a good thing - get thru the first 40 hrs with decades old
proven technology.
--Ron
On 2/26/2016 6:22 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> This is interesting ....
> My buddy, another RV-10 builder, delayed shipment of his Pmags because
> he wasn't ready for them and freed his up for another customer .....
> Kinda shows that they were either shipping or real close. He'll be
> surprised .....
> Linn
>
> On 2/26/2016 6:35 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>>
>> Latest from their web site:
>>
>> Note 1/20/16: We are pleased and grateful for the numerous six
>> cylinder (Series 200) fans anxiously waiting for the product release.
>> At this point, we are still cleaning up the operating code and
>> electronics, in preparation for production. Deliveries of proof-sets
>> were pushed back. Engineering has not yet released them for assembly,
>> but is expected soon.
>>
>> On 2/25/2016 10:53 PM, Albert wrote:
>>> The 6 cylinder P Mags have been out for a while-has anyone on the list
>>> used them and have a report?
>>>
>>> Albert Gardner
>>>
>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>>
>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
From their web site it appears they may be shipping to those that
pre-ordered, but even that is in doubt. Clearly not available to
purchase on open market.
On 2/26/2016 2:00 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> I was not aware that the 6 cylinder P-mags were available. How long have they
been selling them?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453203#453203
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
Guys
For someone who is almost an ignorant on engines, could you please explain what
the P Mags are, and the pros and cons of installing them.
TIA
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 26/02/2016, s 12:22, Linn Walters escreveu:
>
> This is interesting ....
> My buddy, another RV-10 builder, delayed shipment of his Pmags because he wasn't
ready for them and freed his up for another customer .....
> Kinda shows that they were either shipping or real close. He'll be surprised
.....
> Linn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
1. Installing them makes your engine a non-starter. (8^) It appears none
are available.
2. Makes completion date unpredictable.....they have been promised any
day now for at least the past 10 years.
OK...if they ever get out the door, they are electronic ignition that
incorporates an alternator in the unit sufficient to keep it firing if
your electrical system fails. They have had a mostly successful 4 cyl
product for around 15 years or more.
However, a friend with a badly behaving electrical system managed to fry
(technical term) his P mag and the E mag resulting in engine stoppage
about 400 ft in air from takeoff. He made it back to tell about
it...airframe was RV-7A.
I went with Bendix magnetos, and will consider other options after I
have 500 hours on them. There are other electronic ignition systems out
there. Most need to retain one mag for backup, or dual electrical
systems to provide independence from main electrical system or one on
each system.
IF E mag (company name and original product that didn't have the
alternator) ever get 6 cyl version out the door, at some point, once
proven, would give ability to have dual electronic ignition without
having to have dual electrical system.
On 2/26/2016 6:46 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Guys
>
> For someone who is almost an ignorant on engines, could you please explain what
the P Mags are, and the pros and cons of installing them.
>
> TIA
> Carlos
>
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 26/02/2016, s 12:22, Linn Walters escreveu:
>
>>
>> This is interesting ....
>> My buddy, another RV-10 builder, delayed shipment of his Pmags because he wasn't
ready for them and freed his up for another customer .....
>> Kinda shows that they were either shipping or real close. He'll be surprised
.....
>> Linn
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
Still just "vapor ware" I'm afraid.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 26, 2016, at 7:29 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> This is interesting ....
> My buddy, another RV-10 builder, delayed shipment of his Pmags because he wasn't
ready for them and freed his up for another customer .....
> Kinda shows that they were either shipping or real close. He'll be surprised
.....
> Linn
>
>> On 2/26/2016 6:35 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>>
>> Latest from their web site:
>>
>> Note 1/20/16: We are pleased and grateful for the numerous six cylinder (Series
200) fans anxiously waiting for the product release. At this point, we are
still cleaning up the operating code and electronics, in preparation for production.
Deliveries of proof-sets were pushed back. Engineering has not yet
released them for assembly, but is expected soon.
>>
>>> On 2/25/2016 10:53 PM, Albert wrote:
>>> The 6 cylinder P Mags have been out for a while-has anyone on the list
>>> used them and have a report?
>>>
>>> Albert Gardner
>>>
>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>>
>>> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Carlos,
I'm one of those RV-10 guys flying with stock mags - cursing them at every engine
start and at every annual when I have to do maintenance and clean these grossly
overpriced sparkplugs.
I have many happy years flying behind two four cylinder pMag in my now sold RV-8A.
I installed them after repeated failures of a dual Lightspeed ignition install.
I'm happy to report that after 600+ hours the pMags have been flawless.
The attributes follow what you would expect with electronic ignitions:
- easy start
- no plug fouling
- smooth LOP engine operation - all the way to when you lean it out so much it
stops.
- use of automotive spark plugs (cheap enough to just replace at every annual)
- elimination of issues like 500 hour mag maintenance
- each pMag has its own power generator - so the old back up battery mess of other
electronic ignitions is eliminated
- advance timing curve to gain engine efficiently in cruise
I (and many others) ping Brad at eMag several times a year to get out the six cylinder
version. I understand their business plan is to make this model certified
for spam cans so they are going through the regulatory maze. While they
will first come out with an experimental version, I suspect they want to do their
due diligence so that nothing distracts from the larger prize. I'm guessing
this will also be the platform to come out with a new, spam can certified four
cylinder model down the line.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: P Mags
Guys
For someone who is almost an ignorant on engines, could you please explain what
the P Mags are, and the pros and cons of installing them.
TIA
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 26/02/2016, s 12:22, Linn Walters escreveu:
>
> This is interesting ....
> My buddy, another RV-10 builder, delayed shipment of his Pmags because he wasn't
ready for them and freed his up for another customer .....
> Kinda shows that they were either shipping or real close. He'll be surprised
.....
> Linn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
Have you considered the 6 cylinder solution from SDS?
It is available now, and (IMO) has advantages and disadvantages compared to PMags.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 26, 2016, at 11:14 AM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote:
>
>
> Carlos,
>
> I'm one of those RV-10 guys flying with stock mags - cursing them at every engine
start and at every annual when I have to do maintenance and clean these grossly
overpriced sparkplugs.
>
> I have many happy years flying behind two four cylinder pMag in my now sold RV-8A.
I installed them after repeated failures of a dual Lightspeed ignition
install. I'm happy to report that after 600+ hours the pMags have been flawless.
The attributes follow what you would expect with electronic ignitions:
> - easy start
> - no plug fouling
> - smooth LOP engine operation - all the way to when you lean it out so much it
stops.
> - use of automotive spark plugs (cheap enough to just replace at every annual)
> - elimination of issues like 500 hour mag maintenance
> - each pMag has its own power generator - so the old back up battery mess of
other electronic ignitions is eliminated
> - advance timing curve to gain engine efficiently in cruise
>
> I (and many others) ping Brad at eMag several times a year to get out the six
cylinder version. I understand their business plan is to make this model certified
for spam cans so they are going through the regulatory maze. While they
will first come out with an experimental version, I suspect they want to do
their due diligence so that nothing distracts from the larger prize. I'm guessing
this will also be the platform to come out with a new, spam can certified
four cylinder model down the line.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
> Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 8:46 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: P Mags
>
>
> Guys
>
> For someone who is almost an ignorant on engines, could you please explain what
the P Mags are, and the pros and cons of installing them.
>
> TIA
> Carlos
>
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 26/02/2016, s 12:22, Linn Walters escreveu:
>
>>
>> This is interesting ....
>> My buddy, another RV-10 builder, delayed shipment of his Pmags because he wasn't
ready for them and freed his up for another customer .....
>> Kinda shows that they were either shipping or real close. He'll be surprised
.....
>> Linn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeropsort NACA Controller and Magnetometer |
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
For those of you flying and have Aerosport's vent valve, is there ever an interference
with magnetometer mounted in the area? I have fabricated bracket for my
two Dynon magnetometers in most forward area of tailcone area (see picture)
and was worried about its proximity to the vent valve. If there would be a problem
would it just be when vent valve is activated (opened or closed)?
Thanks,
Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453303#453303
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1708_205.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I have found that my IPAD doesn't seem to charge all that well with the USB outlets
I installed in my panel / console. They are rated at 2.1 amps but I guess
there must be more to it than that.
Does anyone have a part # / recommendation for a mountable USB port.
Inquiring minds need to know....
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453308#453308
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I have found that my IPAD doesn't seem to charge all that well with the USB outlets
I installed in my panel / console. They are rated at 2.1 amps but I guess
there must be more to it than that.
Does anyone have a part # / recommendation for a mountable USB port.
Inquiring minds need to know....
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453311#453311
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeropsort NACA Controller and Magnetometer |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Matt
I have the same servo (it works great!). I mounted mine on the back of the brace
that runs top to bottom behind the baggage compartment bulkhead. I haven't seen
any issues with that location.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453312#453312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David King <daviid(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet |
You will need a sub outlet rated for 2.1 or more amps. Here is one that is dual
port 4.2amps capable. I
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/eadualusbpanel.php?clickkey=6431
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 29, 2016, at 9:10 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I have found that my IPAD doesn't seem to charge all that well with the USB outlets
I installed in my panel / console. They are rated at 2.1 amps but I guess
there must be more to it than that.
>
> Does anyone have a part # / recommendation for a mountable USB port.
>
> Inquiring minds need to know....
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453311#453311
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
That should be more than enough to keep your iPAD charging. Do you have
a lot of programs running in the background?
I'm an android guy but I'm constantly killing background programs on my
tablet and my wife's iPAD.
Also, there could be something wrong with your outlet ..... or the
iPAD. Plug your iPAD into a cigarette lighter adapter (if you have
one!) to see if it makes any difference.
Linn
On 2/29/2016 9:00 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I have found that my IPAD doesn't seem to charge all that well with the USB outlets
I installed in my panel / console. They are rated at 2.1 amps but I guess
there must be more to it than that.
>
> Does anyone have a part # / recommendation for a mountable USB port.
>
> Inquiring minds need to know....
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453308#453308
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet |
Stein sells one that charges like a bat out of hell...
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Ready to Roll
On Feb 29, 2016, at 6:00 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I have found that my IPAD doesn't seem to charge all that well with
the USB outlets I installed in my panel / console. They are rated at 2.1
amps but I guess there must be more to it than that.
>
> Does anyone have a part # / recommendation for a mountable USB port.
>
> Inquiring minds need to know....
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453308#453308
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Westcott Press
1121 Isabel Street
Burbank, CA 91506
jeff(at)westcottpress.com
818-861-7300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Linn
I have been running fltplan.go on the IPAD without a lot of background apps. It
does, however use cell data for get wx etc. Often the connection is only 3g or
worse which I believe increase the power consumption.
When I last was flying I tried keeping it plugged in but the battery still drained.
It may be my USB outlet in combination with the low quality cell signal.
When I am next at the airport I will see if turning the cell data off improves
the charging.
Cheers
Les
flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
> That should be more than enough to keep your iPAD charging. Do you have
> a lot of programs running in the background?
> I'm an android guy but I'm constantly killing background programs on my
> tablet and my wife's iPAD.
> Also, there could be something wrong with your outlet ..... or the
> iPAD. Plug your iPAD into a cigarette lighter adapter (if you have
> one!) to see if it makes any difference.
> Linn
>
> On 2/29/2016 9:00 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > I have found that my IPAD doesn't seem to charge all that well with the USB
outlets I installed in my panel / console. They are rated at 2.1 amps but I
guess there must be more to it than that.
> >
> > Does anyone have a part # / recommendation for a mountable USB port.
> >
> > Inquiring minds need to know....
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Les
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453308#453308
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453318#453318
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I've been using fltplan.go on the Samsung tablet along with my homebrew
ADS-B receiver lately. Really don't know how to use the program very well.
The cell conversations will certainly drain the battery faster,
especially if fltplan.go updates weather often. I'm sure that turning
cell data off will make the difference.
Linn
On 2/29/2016 10:18 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Linn
>
> I have been running fltplan.go on the IPAD without a lot of background apps.
It does, however use cell data for get wx etc. Often the connection is only 3g
or worse which I believe increase the power consumption.
>
> When I last was flying I tried keeping it plugged in but the battery still drained.
It may be my USB outlet in combination with the low quality cell signal.
When I am next at the airport I will see if turning the cell data off improves
the charging.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> That should be more than enough to keep your iPAD charging. Do you have
>> a lot of programs running in the background?
>> I'm an android guy but I'm constantly killing background programs on my
>> tablet and my wife's iPAD.
>> Also, there could be something wrong with your outlet ..... or the
>> iPAD. Plug your iPAD into a cigarette lighter adapter (if you have
>> one!) to see if it makes any difference.
>> Linn
>>
>> On 2/29/2016 9:00 PM, kearney wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> I have found that my IPAD doesn't seem to charge all that well with the USB
outlets I installed in my panel / console. They are rated at 2.1 amps but I
guess there must be more to it than that.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a part # / recommendation for a mountable USB port.
>>>
>>> Inquiring minds need to know....
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Les
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453308#453308
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453318#453318
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet |
| From: | Jim Villani <jim(at)JimVillani.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Live" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet and ADS-b |
I have the same setup Linn- my Stratux sits in the baggage area using a 12v
cigarette adaptor with a 2.4A USB, runs from start (when it automatically
powers up to shutdown) Never had an issue with that. BTW- Avare gets you 2-3
times more traffic than FPGo but weather is better on FPGo. With Avare it
uses loads of battery (Samsung Tab 2 has a bad battery to start with) and I
also have the IO app that drives the battery even more, even with all that
load on the Samsung the battery charges faster than it drains.
Les- I have two daughters with two ipad mini running on a 12V USB connection
at the SAME TIME. They both see charging while they use it. I fear you are
using a plug that is either not getting enough power and/or an adaptor that
is overloaded. I think the bluetooth sucks battery on the phone, I usually
disble bluetooth and use the Wifi as a hotspot without battery issues.
This is the one I use and it has worked flawlessly,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VH84L5E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
. For the price it cant be beat it is 2X 2.4Amps.
Best of success!
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Linn Walters
Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet
I've been using fltplan.go on the Samsung tablet along with my homebrew
ADS-B receiver lately. Really don't know how to use the program very well.
The cell conversations will certainly drain the battery faster,
especially if fltplan.go updates weather often. I'm sure that turning
cell data off will make the difference.
Linn
On 2/29/2016 10:18 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Linn
>
> I have been running fltplan.go on the IPAD without a lot of background
> apps. It does, however use cell data for get wx etc. Often the connection
> is only 3g or worse which I believe increase the power consumption.
>
> When I last was flying I tried keeping it plugged in but the battery still
> drained. It may be my USB outlet in combination with the low quality cell
> signal. When I am next at the airport I will see if turning the cell data
> off improves the charging.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> That should be more than enough to keep your iPAD charging. Do you have
>> a lot of programs running in the background?
>> I'm an android guy but I'm constantly killing background programs on my
>> tablet and my wife's iPAD.
>> Also, there could be something wrong with your outlet ..... or the
>> iPAD. Plug your iPAD into a cigarette lighter adapter (if you have
>> one!) to see if it makes any difference.
>> Linn
>>
>> On 2/29/2016 9:00 PM, kearney wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> I have found that my IPAD doesn't seem to charge all that well with
>>> the USB outlets I installed in my panel / console. They are rated at 2.1
>>> amps but I guess there must be more to it than that.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a part # / recommendation for a mountable USB port.
>>>
>>> Inquiring minds need to know....
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Les
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453308#453308
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453318#453318
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 12V USB Panel Mount Outlet and ADS-b |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
These are what I've been using:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1UWA4O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
The SCOSCHE USBC242M.
It's also 4.8A total, and does a very fast charge. Costs a little more
than the Anker below,
but is shorter which stays in the socket very well and doesn't stick out
more than
maybe 1/4". I probably own 8 or 10 of them and haven't had one go bad.
Noise free so far in the plane. Just bought 2 more tonight for the RV-14.
The best I've found for AC use that we bring along traveling for the family
(and use at home) is this: (I've bought 3 of them)
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-PowerPort-Multi-Port-Samsung/dp/B00VH8ZW02/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1456812858&sr=1-1&keywords=anker+5-port
The Anker 40W/8A 5-port charger. You can't go wrong with that one.
It charges as fast as the device can take.
Both of the above have replaced all the other various USB chargers
that I've bought or received with phones and devices. Having the
extra port(s) makes them much nicer than the standard ones.
Tim
On 2/29/2016 11:14 PM, Live wrote:
>
> I have the same setup Linn- my Stratux sits in the baggage area using
> a 12v cigarette adaptor with a 2.4A USB, runs from start (when it
> automatically powers up to shutdown) Never had an issue with that.
> BTW- Avare gets you 2-3 times more traffic than FPGo but weather is
> better on FPGo. With Avare it uses loads of battery (Samsung Tab 2 has
> a bad battery to start with) and I also have the IO app that drives
> the battery even more, even with all that load on the Samsung the
> battery charges faster than it drains.
> Les- I have two daughters with two ipad mini running on a 12V USB
> connection at the SAME TIME. They both see charging while they use it.
> I fear you are using a plug that is either not getting enough power
> and/or an adaptor that is overloaded. I think the bluetooth sucks
> battery on the phone, I usually disble bluetooth and use the Wifi as a
> hotspot without battery issues.
> This is the one I use and it has worked flawlessly,
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VH84L5E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
> . For the price it cant be beat it is 2X 2.4Amps.
> Best of success!
> Pascal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
I've about had all I can handle finding a simple and effective way to mount these
Ray Allen POS-12 sensors in the airframe.
No matter what I do I can't find a good way to mount them where they can travel
with the flap system.
I've been trying to mount them under the flap tube covers on the rear seats mounted
to the rear spar area and attached to the tube.
I've nearly thrown my phone clear across this hangar about 15 times and I've invented
cuss words that didn't exist before I took on this (what should be) ridiculously
simple task.
I need some better ideas and photos. I don't want to scrap this plane because
of a $20 sensor but right now I've had all I can handle.
Thanks for letting me vent and for the ideas gentlemen.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeropsort NACA Controller and Magnetometer |
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
No issues here. I have the naca vent valve maybe 6 inches behind the
baggage bulkhead right near the top skin, and the magnetometer on the top
of the front side of the next bulkhead back.
On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 5:54 PM, mhealydds wrote:
>
> For those of you flying and have Aerosport's vent valve, is there ever an
> interference with magnetometer mounted in the area? I have fabricated
> bracket for my two Dynon magnetometers in most forward area of tailcone
> area (see picture) and was worried about its proximity to the vent valve.
> If there would be a problem would it just be when vent valve is activated
> (opened or closed)?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453303#453303
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1708_205.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
I copied Mark Cooper's install and although I am not yet flying it appears
to be able to go stop to stop w/o issue. Scroll down to the pictures in the
post below on his blog.
https://myrv10factory.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/first-real-traffic-info-avion
ics-checklists-oxygen-head-unit-illumination-holiday-decorations-flap-positi
on-sensor-onboard-audio-entertainment/
Not knowing how much pain he went through to settle on the mount location
and size of plate I tried to mimic the same size for the aluminum plate
attaching the POS-12 to the hinge as him. I then attached it to the flap
tube with the adel clamp and held it in place on the rear seat finding the
optimal spot to attach the hinge to the rear seat bulkhead. Like I said not
flying yet but I can get it to go stop to stop... just barely but it does.
This VAF thread has some other ideas as well
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56927
Ben Westfall
Portland, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 8:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors!
I've about had all I can handle finding a simple and effective way to mount
these Ray Allen POS-12 sensors in the airframe.
No matter what I do I can't find a good way to mount them where they can
travel with the flap system.
I've been trying to mount them under the flap tube covers on the rear seats
mounted to the rear spar area and attached to the tube.
I've nearly thrown my phone clear across this hangar about 15 times and I've
invented cuss words that didn't exist before I took on this (what should be)
ridiculously simple task.
I need some better ideas and photos. I don't want to scrap this plane
because of a $20 sensor but right now I've had all I can handle.
Thanks for letting me vent and for the ideas gentlemen.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
I did the exact same setup for the flap positioning sensor. Works perfectly well,
4 years in service. One important note. You Do Not need to mechanically
go end to end with flap travel on the sensor. In fact you don't want it
to, that way you are never putting mechanical stress on the parts. In the software
for whatever flight screen you are using you set up the "limits" as reported
by the sensor and those values get mapped to the flap position displayed.
It's just like calibrating the fuel senders.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
610-928-3420
> On Mar 1, 2016, at 4:11 PM, Ben Westfall wrote:
>
>
> I copied Mark Cooper's install and although I am not yet flying it appears
> to be able to go stop to stop w/o issue. Scroll down to the pictures in the
> post below on his blog.
>
> https://myrv10factory.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/first-real-traffic-info-avion
> ics-checklists-oxygen-head-unit-illumination-holiday-decorations-flap-positi
> on-sensor-onboard-audio-entertainment/
>
> Not knowing how much pain he went through to settle on the mount location
> and size of plate I tried to mimic the same size for the aluminum plate
> attaching the POS-12 to the hinge as him. I then attached it to the flap
> tube with the adel clamp and held it in place on the rear seat finding the
> optimal spot to attach the hinge to the rear seat bulkhead. Like I said not
> flying yet but I can get it to go stop to stop... just barely but it does.
>
> This VAF thread has some other ideas as well
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56927
>
> Ben Westfall
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 8:09 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors!
>
>
> I've about had all I can handle finding a simple and effective way to mount
> these Ray Allen POS-12 sensors in the airframe.
>
> No matter what I do I can't find a good way to mount them where they can
> travel with the flap system.
>
> I've been trying to mount them under the flap tube covers on the rear seats
> mounted to the rear spar area and attached to the tube.
>
> I've nearly thrown my phone clear across this hangar about 15 times and I've
> invented cuss words that didn't exist before I took on this (what should be)
> ridiculously simple task.
>
> I need some better ideas and photos. I don't want to scrap this plane
> because of a $20 sensor but right now I've had all I can handle.
>
> Thanks for letting me vent and for the ideas gentlemen.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Somewhere I saw an installation that used an Adel clamp on the flap
torque tube with the POS-12 mounted to the side of the tunnel. A tab
with a row of small holes was attached to the Adel clamp to create an
arm using it's screw and the holes used to set the travel. Model
airplane clevises were used to connect the POS-12 to the tab.
Linn
On 3/1/2016 4:11 PM, Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> I copied Mark Cooper's install and although I am not yet flying it appears
> to be able to go stop to stop w/o issue. Scroll down to the pictures in the
> post below on his blog.
>
> https://myrv10factory.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/first-real-traffic-info-avion
> ics-checklists-oxygen-head-unit-illumination-holiday-decorations-flap-positi
> on-sensor-onboard-audio-entertainment/
>
> Not knowing how much pain he went through to settle on the mount location
> and size of plate I tried to mimic the same size for the aluminum plate
> attaching the POS-12 to the hinge as him. I then attached it to the flap
> tube with the adel clamp and held it in place on the rear seat finding the
> optimal spot to attach the hinge to the rear seat bulkhead. Like I said not
> flying yet but I can get it to go stop to stop... just barely but it does.
>
> This VAF thread has some other ideas as well
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56927
>
> Ben Westfall
> Portland, OR
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 8:09 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors!
>
>
> I've about had all I can handle finding a simple and effective way to mount
> these Ray Allen POS-12 sensors in the airframe.
>
> No matter what I do I can't find a good way to mount them where they can
> travel with the flap system.
>
> I've been trying to mount them under the flap tube covers on the rear seats
> mounted to the rear spar area and attached to the tube.
>
> I've nearly thrown my phone clear across this hangar about 15 times and I've
> invented cuss words that didn't exist before I took on this (what should be)
> ridiculously simple task.
>
> I need some better ideas and photos. I don't want to scrap this plane
> because of a $20 sensor but right now I've had all I can handle.
>
> Thanks for letting me vent and for the ideas gentlemen.
>
> Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
Does anyone have a hose list for the IO540 installation? I want to replace
existing hoses with Stratoflex lifetime versions. Any suppliers?
---
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
Phil
Don=92t feel lonely. I felt the same way a couple of months ago, struggled
to
find a solution and rested my case. Being doing something else in the
meantime.
So, I am glad you asked.
I=92m all hears =85
Thanks
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: ter=E7a-feira, 1 de Mar=E7o de 2016 16:09
Subject: RV10-List: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors!
philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I've about had all I can handle finding a simple and effective way to mount
these Ray Allen POS-12 sensors in the airframe.
No matter what I do I can't find a good way to mount them where they can
travel with the flap system.
I've been trying to mount them under the flap tube covers on the rear seats
mounted to the rear spar area and attached to the tube.
I've nearly thrown my phone clear across this hangar about 15 times and I'v
e
invented cuss words that didn't exist before I took on this (what should be
)
ridiculously simple task.
I need some better ideas and photos. I don't want to scrap this plane
because of a $20 sensor but right now I've had all I can handle.
Thanks for letting me vent and for the ideas gentlemen.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
www.buildersbooks.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Day
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I'm pretty certain that Bill Curtis had the list on his build site. I've
lost the bookmark.
On 3/1/2016 3:14 PM, David wrote:
> Does anyone have a hose list for the IO540 installation? I want to
> replace existing hoses with Stratoflex lifetime versions. Any suppliers?
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Phil
I understand your frustration. If you wish, I'll certainly take your project off
your hands at no charge to you!.
Failing that, what I did was mount the POS12 on the foot-well wall using a small
length of hinge. I then, as others have, installed an adel clamp to the flap
with a tube. The adel clamp had a small L shaped bracket that attached to the
POS-12 arm. Very simple and quite similar if not identical to what others did.
The trick was to get the hinge / pos 12 on a place on the foot-well where the full
range of the flap movement wouldn't over / under extend the POS-12 arm. This
I did by trial and errior. When I had it exactly where I wanted, I used pop
rivets to attach the hinge. I used aluminium tape to hole the hinge pin end in
place so I could remove easily at a later date if required.
Here are a couple of trial that may help visualize things.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453351#453351
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2012_10_24_152642_293.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2012_10_24_152654_401.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Here is how I did it. Remember, you do not need full travel of the sensor, so
keep the radius as small as possible. 50% travel will do just as well as full
travel. The rods can be purchased at any RC hobby shop.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453357#453357
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1941_263.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
More Photos
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453358#453358
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1946_133.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2088_830.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Ameri-King Corporation, Huntington Beach, CA, PArts and Articles |
FYI.
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> From: "Federal Aviation Administration"
> Subject: Ameri-King Corporation, Huntington Beach, CA, PArts and
Articles
> Date: March 2, 2016 at 12:43:22 PM CST
> To:
> Reply-To: usafaa(at)public.govdelivery.com
>
>
>
> You have subscribed to the FAA Unapproved Parts Notifications alerts
from the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration. This information has
recently been updated, and is available at:
>
> http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/programs/sups/upn/2016/
>
> The UPN Number is 2016-2013NM460018
>
> STAY CONNECTED:
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King Corporation, Huntington Beach, CA, PArts and |
Arti
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
What this site says is that AmeriKing has had all of their TSO's pulled, effective
28 Dec 2015. Any boxes bought after that date are not legal to use. It appears
A-K has continued to sell ELTs in spite of this.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453379#453379
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: maintenance tips |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
The erratically high readings appeared at aprox 4-500 hours in my plane
as well.
You simply cleaned the external contacts and the high readings
disappeared? I will try same and report. Thanks.
On 2/13/2016 9:16 AM, David wrote:
>
> The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading
> erratically high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA
> friend said the same is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15
> times the experimental price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours
> and again at about 800 hours. The new one started the routine a couple
> of months ago. After thinking about the transducer, I decided to try
> cleaning the contacts; I have flown several hours since then and the
> sensor is operating normally. I think that the problem may be the oil
> residue, etc swirling about under the cowl and causing contact
> problems. So far so good.
>
> David McNeill
>
> N46007 TT 1000+
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Those @&$#^ flap position sensors! |
| From: | "hotwheels" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Here's what I did... Really simple and flying without issue for several years.
Regards,
Jay
N433RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453425#453425
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0857_103.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | need to buy new HZ prop from vans |
Due to a brake failure, my existing prop tried to eat the hangar door. Vans
will sell me another prop if one of the builders who used an MT prop will
allow me to buy their HZ prop per Vans agreement. Anyone not using their HZ
prop and would allow me to obtain "their" prop via Vans, please advise.
David
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: need to buy new HZ prop from vans |
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
David
You can use mine
Les Kearney
40-643
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 8, 2016, at 13:12, David wrote:
>
> Due to a brake failure, my existing prop tried to eat the hangar door. Van
s will sell me another prop if one of the builders who used an MT prop will a
llow me to buy their HZ prop per Vans agreement. Anyone not using their HZ p
rop and would allow me to obtain =9Ctheir=9D prop via Vans, plea
se advise.
>
> David
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
Thanks to all. I may have a reasonable option. BTW that fuel pressure sensor
is still working properly about 15 hours after cleaning the contacts.
David
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: need to buy new HZ prop from vans |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Have you talked to Ottesson or Warner prop about getting replacement blades?
you can use "my" prop, as I bought MT from different vendor.
On 3/8/2016 1:12 PM, David wrote:
> Due to a brake failure, my existing prop tried to eat the hangar door.
> Vans will sell me another prop if one of the builders who used an MT
> prop will allow me to buy their HZ prop per Vans agreement. Anyone not
> using their HZ prop and would allow me to obtain their prop via Vans,
> please advise.
>
> David
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Back seat question |
My plane back seats backs don't fold foward . They seem to be held from folding
flat by the seat belt attachments.
Are they supposed to be able to fold flat?
Alan
N668G
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back seat question |
No. That's normal.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 11, 2016, at 12:18 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
>
> My plane back seats backs don't fold foward . They seem to be held from folding
flat by the seat belt attachments.
> Are they supposed to be able to fold flat?
> Alan
> N668G
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back seat question |
Not really. You can alway pull the seat back pin and remove them if you are transforming
the back to cargo hauling.
Carl
> On Mar 11, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
>
> My plane back seats backs don't fold foward . They seem to be held from folding
flat by the seat belt attachments.
> Are they supposed to be able to fold flat?
> Alan
> N668G
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New (Free) Aviation App |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com> |
We just completed a major upgrade to Airport Courtesy Cars App, which now makes the app available on ALL devices, including the web. Please upgrade your app to the latest version. If your phone does not support the app, then go to our new website, www.airportcourtesycars.com The site is mobile friendly and you can place its icon to your phone or tablet screen. Both versions show Google maps for each state, the app version still shows the entire US map which some people prefer. The site currently lists over 1560 cars. Thanks for your input and contact us with any questions, new listings, or corrections to airportcars101(at)gmail.com And please check out our advertisers and FBOs who offer you fuel discounts. The app remains free.
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Owner, "Airport Courtesy Cars" Smart Phone App
and www.airportcourtesycars.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453841#453841
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | California Push Pull |
I have an extra cable that I purchased from California Push Pull in 2015;
Actually I bought two cables but used one to replace a sticky throttle
cable. The second cable could serve as either a mixture or throttle cable.
This has a higher internal melt temperature than Van supplied cables. This
cable is 176-V-TT-2-52 and is for pedestal controls. Surplus to my needs as
I replaced the throttle cable with the other one and I purchase some special
order Teflon core cables from Spruce which I will install soon. This cable
is new for $50 and I will ship ground to USA..
David
480-626-4048
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Ride to Sun'n Fun |
Hi guys
I am an homebuilder from Portugal (Europe) and I'm visiting in Florida, planning
to go to Sun'n Fun.
If any of you is planning to fly into Lakeland between the 5th and the 7th of April,
and you have a spare seat in your airplane, I would very much appreciate
to take it, from a nearby airport.
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)u.washington.edu> |
| Subject: | Stratux permanent installation in RV-10 |
After flying with the Stratux ADS-B In receiver for a few months, I liked it
and decided to build it into the plane. Mounting an inexpensive ($17)
external ADS-B antenna on the belly pretty far back in the tailcone and
connecting to the unit via RG400 cable did wonders for improving the unit's
reception compared to the folding telescoping antennas that it comes with.
And although I spent a bit more trying various components that I didn't end
up using, if one wanted to start from scratch, everything needed to build
and install it would be less than $270. I put together a web page with
details including parts and price list for anyone who might be considering
this for their -10:
http://faculty.washington.edu/dmasys/stratux.html
As always, YMMV and there are lots of alternative ways to get this
accomplished. Was quite happy with how this turned out, since it basically
tripled the number of towers the unit sees in most locations.
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD 880 hrs, once a project always a project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flysrv10 <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ride to Sun'n Fun |
Carlos,
I am going on Friday-Saterday. Let me know if your plans change.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 23, 2016, at 10:04 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
>
> Hi guys
>
> I am an homebuilder from Portugal (Europe) and I'm visiting in Florida, planning
to go to Sun'n Fun.
>
> If any of you is planning to fly into Lakeland between the 5th and the 7th of
April, and you have a spare seat in your airplane, I would very much appreciate
to take it, from a nearby airport.
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | GARMIN autopilot servos wiring |
Guys
Those of you who installed or are installing a GARMIN G3X, which wires or multi-wire
cable did you use to connect the autopilot servos?
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | GARMIN autopilot servos wiring |
You would use shielded multi conductor wires for the CAN portion and
RS-232's (and possibly some trim), but individual wires for the CWS, PWR,
GND, and CAN termination (if you're using it for the terminator on the CAN).
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 8:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring
Guys
Those of you who installed or are installing a GARMIN G3X, which wires or
multi-wire cable did you use to connect the autopilot servos?
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | GARMIN autopilot servos wiring |
The list seems too quite lately. I'm thinking about building another plane
and wonder if it should be a tail-dragger or tri-gear, and which EFIS and
primer is best?
Albert Gardner
RV-19 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
It has been quiet. I wonder if people are reluctant to post while Matt is in recovery?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454363#454363
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
Is there a get together at Sun n Fun for RV builders? This will be my
second time at the event, but the first time with my -10.
We are planning to camp out in HBC and would love to meet some of you guys
face to face.
Shannon Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
Don't know but we will be in the area with a -10. Gonna try the air boats after
wards. Dan
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 30, 2016, at 11:28 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
> Is there a get together at Sun n Fun for RV builders? This will be my second
time at the event, but the first time with my -10.
>
> We are planning to camp out in HBC and would love to meet some of you guys face
to face.
>
> Shannon Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
RV-14 tail wheel with Blue Mountain EFIS and Corrosion X for primer. 8^)
Then get RV-10 wings, and fuselage parts to stretch it back into a -10,
tail dragger. Of course you could upgrade to steam gauges and use Ipad
for MFD. For nostalgia you could add a Laurance GPS por Apollo 920.
On 3/30/2016 8:46 AM, Albert wrote:
>
> The list seems too quite lately. I'm thinking about building another plane
> and wonder if it should be a tail-dragger or tri-gear, and which EFIS and
> primer is best?
> Albert Gardner
> RV-19 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring |
Thank you Stein
I believe the DYNON servo wires are all unshielded.
Why do you recommend the CAN, the RS-232 and the trim wires to be shielded?
Best
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 30/03/2016, s 10:39, Stein Bruch escreveu:
>
> You would use shielded multi conductor wires for the CAN portion and
> RS-232's (and possibly some trim), but individual wires for the CWS, PWR,
> GND, and CAN termination (if you're using it for the terminator on the CAN).
>
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
> Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring
>
>
> Guys
>
> Those of you who installed or are installing a GARMIN G3X, which wires or
> multi-wire cable did you use to connect the autopilot servos?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | GARMIN autopilot servos wiring |
Because it's what Garmin recommends in their manual! :)
That said, it is recommended to be shielded just to keep "noise" to a minimum,
but we actually have seen people retrofit both TruTrak and Dynon Autopilots with
the Garmin Servos, re-use their existing wiring with no ill effects. Of course
it's always best to follow the manufacturer recommendations, but we have
seen people do it the other way and have acceptable results....we've also seen
people have unacceptable results as well though (so fair warning).
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring
Thank you Stein
I believe the DYNON servo wires are all unshielded.
Why do you recommend the CAN, the RS-232 and the trim wires to be shielded?
Best
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 30/03/2016, s 10:39, Stein Bruch escreveu:
>
> You would use shielded multi conductor wires for the CAN portion and
> RS-232's (and possibly some trim), but individual wires for the CWS,
> PWR, GND, and CAN termination (if you're using it for the terminator on the CAN).
>
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos
> Trigo
> Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: GARMIN autopilot servos wiring
>
>
> Guys
>
> Those of you who installed or are installing a GARMIN G3X, which wires
> or multi-wire cable did you use to connect the autopilot servos?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New Vans Aircraft Anounced |
If you don't subscribe to Propwash you may have missed this awesome
anouncement from Vans aircraft
http://aero-news.net/
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Live" <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New Vans Aircraft Anounced |
Seems like a April 1 joke to me.
-----Original Message-----
From: Albert
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2016 1:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New Vans Aircraft Anounced
If you don't subscribe to Propwash you may have missed this awesome
anouncement from Vans aircraft
http://aero-news.net/
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New Vans Aircraft Anounced |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Yup, I think you're spot on there!
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 2 Apr 2016, at 07:18, Live wrote:
>
>
> Seems like a April 1 joke to me.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Albert Sent: Friday, April 01, 2016 1:23 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New
Vans Aircraft Anounced
>
> If you don't subscribe to Propwash you may have missed this awesome
> anouncement from Vans aircraft
> http://aero-news.net/
>
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New Vans Aircraft Anounced |
I might have been too subtle but these guys put out an annual April Fools Edition.
I especially liked the one about Santa Monica airport.
Albert Gardner
---- Live wrote:
>
> Seems like a April 1 joke to me.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Albert
> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2016 1:23 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New Vans Aircraft Anounced
>
>
> If you don't subscribe to Propwash you may have missed this awesome
> anouncement from Vans aircraft
> http://aero-news.net/
>
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New Vans Aircraft Anounced |
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
April Fool
> On Apr 1, 2016, at 3:23 PM, Albert wrote:
>
>
> If you don't subscribe to Propwash you may have missed this awesome
> anouncement from Vans aircraft
> http://aero-news.net/
>
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propwash 4-1-2016 edition: New Vans Aircraft Anounced |
I think they have it all wrong. I understand that Van's will come out with
an RV-10B. All aluminum cabin and doors, wings on top where they belong,
and mains moved to firewall, made out of flat spring steel Wittman legs,
with a good sized Scott/Alaskan bushwhell tail wheel. Control surfaces
modified for design flutter speed of 250 kts, any 520, 540, 550 or 580
series engine of up to 350 hp supported, with or without turbochargers, for
up to 225 kt cruise speed. However, stall speed will be 40 kts with full
fowler flaps, permitting operation anywhere a C-180 can go. Sheet metal
cowling, leaving only optional wheel pants and wing tip and tail tips made
of fiberglass. Plans, standard and quick build kits will be available on
this date 2017. Any resemblance to the afformentioned C-180 is a pure
coincidence.
-sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
On Fri, Apr 1, 2016 at 1:23 PM, Albert wrote:
>
> If you don't subscribe to Propwash you may have missed this awesome
> anouncement from Vans aircraft
> http://aero-news.net/
>
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
Any thoughts.....I have trying to bleed my brakes as per instructions in Grove
brake instructions (pumping up with oil can) to test for leaks and such. I have
done it twice and seem to get same result. I get a great hard pedal on pilot
(left) side for both right and left brakes but cannot get seem to get same result
on co-pilot (right) side for either pedal. What am I doing wrong here?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454797#454797
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
Are you sure you have the lines routed correctly?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 10, 2016, at 1:36 PM, mhealydds wrote:
>
>
> Any thoughts.....I have trying to bleed my brakes as per instructions in Grove
brake instructions (pumping up with oil can) to test for leaks and such. I have
done it twice and seem to get same result. I get a great hard pedal on pilot
(left) side for both right and left brakes but cannot get seem to get same
result on co-pilot (right) side for either pedal. What am I doing wrong here?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454797#454797
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
We had similar issues when first activating the system, and again when
replaced "O" rings. Finally got tired of fiddling with it and while
applying pressure on the right wheel cylinder input nipple, cracked the line
at the co-pilot foot pedal to get the air out and it solved the problem.
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: mhealydds
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 1:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Bleeding Brakes
Any thoughts.....I have trying to bleed my brakes as per instructions in
Grove brake instructions (pumping up with oil can) to test for leaks and
such. I have done it twice and seem to get same result. I get a great hard
pedal on pilot (left) side for both right and left brakes but cannot get
seem to get same result on co-pilot (right) side for either pedal. What am I
doing wrong here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
When I was first bleeding my brakes I had a b*tch of a time getting it done right.
The problem was one of the pedals was ever so slightly forward so that the
valve in the cylinder was closed and the cylinder was not being bled.
I suggest you check that the pedals are all fully back so that the cylinder valves
are open when bleeding.
If you a park brake, be sure it is disengaged as well. Don't ask about how I know
that little gem....
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454805#454805
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
I use a pressurized brake bleeder from ATS:
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=225DX
I just use a 1/4" tube just pressed onto the bleeder instead of the rig
they supply. They both leak about the same. The trick is to keep the pot
pressurized and keep the flow rate high enough to grab the little bubbles
that get stuck to the sides of the tube. It's probably overkill but I
tapped a pressure gauge into the pot. I keep it around 15 PSI.
You'll get more bubbles out the reservoir if you slowly move each brake
pedal off it's stop.
Also, you might try putting a drop of hydraulic fluid on the top of the
cylinder to re-wet the seal, especially if air seems to be entering like a
slow leak.
--Dave
On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 10:36 AM, mhealydds wrote:
>
> Any thoughts.....I have trying to bleed my brakes as per instructions in
> Grove brake instructions (pumping up with oil can) to test for leaks and
> such. I have done it twice and seem to get same result. I get a great hard
> pedal on pilot (left) side for both right and left brakes but cannot get
> seem to get same result on co-pilot (right) side for either pedal. What am
> I doing wrong here?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454797#454797
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Another trick I use to get the air out. Attach a 1/4" AN fitting (1/8" pipe
thread) to the top of the brake reservoir. From this fitting attach a short
U of 1/4" aluminum tubing and end in a jar.
The problem I had was getting the air out. With this set up I can pump from
the caliper and watch the air bubbles come out of the reservoir. I had to
pump a lot of fluid to get the last air bubbles out.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lewgall(at)charter.net
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bleeding Brakes
We had similar issues when first activating the system, and again when
replaced "O" rings. Finally got tired of fiddling with it and while
applying pressure on the right wheel cylinder input nipple, cracked the line
at the co-pilot foot pedal to get the air out and it solved the problem.
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: mhealydds
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 1:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Bleeding Brakes
Any thoughts.....I have trying to bleed my brakes as per instructions in
Grove brake instructions (pumping up with oil can) to test for leaks and
such. I have done it twice and seem to get same result. I get a great hard
pedal on pilot (left) side for both right and left brakes but cannot get
seem to get same result on co-pilot (right) side for either pedal. What am I
doing wrong here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
Anyone have a HID light with pigtail for the Rigid Industries system ; I
have damaged one and trying to determine whether a replacement is possible.
I am also considering whether to replace with new LED system.
David
480-626-4048
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com> |
No HID here but:
There is a good write up on the Vans forums on the use of the Squadron light
s by Baja Designs.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=105248
Seems to be a really bright option and the prices have come down some in the
last year.
Justin
> On Apr 12, 2016, at 05:23, David wrote:
>
> Anyone have a HID light with pigtail for the Rigid Industries system ; I h
ave damaged one and trying to determine whether a replacement is possible. I
am also considering whether to replace with new LED system.
>
> David
> 480-626-4048
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Level flight position |
Guys
I am installing the magnetometer before having installed the gear legs or the wheels.
Is it correct to assume that, in the RV-10, leveling the Mid cabin decks (those
2 mid-fuselage surfaces below the doors bottoms) does correspond to a 0 degree
pitch attitude n flight?
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)MSN.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Level flight position |
Yes
Put a level on them and also laterally across the cockpit
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 13, 2016, at 4:53 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
>
> Guys
>
> I am installing the magnetometer before having installed the gear legs or the
wheels.
>
> Is it correct to assume that, in the RV-10, leveling the Mid cabin decks (those
2 mid-fuselage surfaces below the doors bottoms) does correspond to a 0 degree
pitch attitude n flight?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Level flight position |
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
So with what sytem did you settle at the end and what did you buy?
Cheers
Werner
>
>> On Apr 13, 2016, at 4:53 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>>
>>
>> Guys
>>
>> I am installing the magnetometer before having installed the gear legs or the
wheels.
>>
>> Is it correct to assume that, in the RV-10, leveling the Mid cabin decks (those
2 mid-fuselage surfaces below the doors bottoms) does correspond to a 0 degree
pitch attitude n flight?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Level flight position |
Hi Werner
There were other than technical reasons to choose the GARMIN G3X.
I bought all the G3X parts necessary for the "internal" installation, so I will
buy later the Displays and the Autopilot panel.
Cheers
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 14/04/2016, s 09:43, Werner Schneider escreveu:
>
> So with what sytem did you settle at the end and what did you buy?
>
> Cheers
>
> Werner
>
>
>>
>>> On Apr 13, 2016, at 4:53 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Guys
>>>
>>> I am installing the magnetometer before having installed the gear legs or the
wheels.
>>>
>>> Is it correct to assume that, in the RV-10, leveling the Mid cabin decks (those
2 mid-fuselage surfaces below the doors bottoms) does correspond to a 0 degree
pitch attitude n flight?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Carlos
>>>
>>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Back Online |
Dear Listers,
The Matronics Web server lost a critical system hard drive yesterday 4/18/2016.
I have been working feverishly for the last 24 hours to repair the system and
get the Matronics Forums and other web-based resources back online.
Email services were not impacted in anyway.
back online and all resources were successfully restored from a backup.
My apologies for the down time.
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email and Forum Admin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Web Server Back Online |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Matt,
It is so good to hear that you're able to work on this! But make sure you put your
health above everything else. How are you doing?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455220#455220
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Web Server Back Online |
Gals you are back. Regards, Robert N 661G
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 19, 2016, at 3:44 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> The Matronics Web server lost a critical system hard drive yesterday 4/18/2016.
I have been working feverishly for the last 24 hours to repair the system and
get the Matronics Forums and other web-based resources back online.
>
> Email services were not impacted in anyway.
>
is back online and all resources were successfully restored from a backup.
>
> My apologies for the down time.
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email and Forum Admin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Web Server Back Online |
I'm recovering well. Back to work on May 2nd.
Even driving now for a couple of weeks, hopefully flying the RVs again in the Summer!
Matt
At 02:03 PM 4/19/2016 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>Matt,
>
>It is so good to hear that you're able to work on this! But make sure you put
your health above everything else. How are you doing?
>
>--------
>Bob Turner
>RV-10 QB
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Web Server Back Online |
Thank God. Great to hear!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 19, 2016, at 4:18 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> I'm recovering well. Back to work on May 2nd.
>
> Even driving now for a couple of weeks, hopefully flying the RVs again in the
Summer!
>
> Matt
>
>
> At 02:03 PM 4/19/2016 Tuesday, you wrote:
>>
>> Matt,
>>
>> It is so good to hear that you're able to work on this! But make sure you put
your health above everything else. How are you doing?
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Powering the EFIS system |
Group
I am beginning to install the EFIS G3X system from GARMIN in the RV-10, and
I have to put power into (not more not less than) 12 devices (2 Display
units, 2 ADAHRS, 1 engine module, 3 autopilot servos and so on).
In some devices there are 2 independent power inputs.
I am trying to figure out which will be the best architecture for the power
circuits to these 12 devices.
I know that some of you are against the single Avionics switch, and I am
leaning to agree, not including that single point of failure, but how about
the distribution system?
I am not searching for opinions on the breaker or fuses discussion, just to
know what other people did or recommend to do with busses and circuits.
I should add that I have a dual battery /dual alternator energy system.
All good suggestions welcome!
Thanks
Carlos
---
Este e-mail foi verificado em termos de v=C3=ADrus pelo software antiv=C3
=ADrus Avast.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Powering the EFIS system |
| From: | Andrew Long <along(at)aanet.com.au> |
Hi Carlos,
I can only point you to what I did and the reason.
I have configured for IFR and high levels of redundancy.
refer to my build log: www.ozrv10.com and see what I did.
It is very much a personal decision and comfort zone.
Regards,
Andrew
On 20-Apr-16 8:36 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Group
>
> I am beginning to install the EFIS G3X system from GARMIN in the
> RV-10, and I have to put power into (not more not less than) _12
> devices_ (2 Display units, 2 ADAHRS, 1 engine module, 3 autopilot
> servos and so on).
>
> In some devices there are 2 independent power inputs.
>
> I am trying to figure out which will be the best architecture for the
> power circuits to these 12 devices.
>
> I know that some of you are against the single Avionics switch, and I
> am leaning to agree, not including that single point of failure, but
> how about the distribution system?
>
> I am not searching for opinions on the breaker or fuses discussion,
> just to know what other people did or recommend to do with busses and
> circuits.
>
> I should add that I have a dual battery /dual alternator energy system.
>
> All good suggestions welcome!
>
> Thanks
>
> Carlos
>
>
>
> Sem vrus. www.avast.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Powering the EFIS system |
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Carlos,
The lid is off the can of worms. This should be interesting! I've found t
hat coating my wires in chromate primer has benefits too. ;)
All seriousness, though I can see people breaking out the flame throwers alr
eady, what does your main buss look like? Single Alt / Single Battery? Du
al alt (hot/standby) single battery, etc....
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 19, 2016, at 5:36 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Group
>
> I am beginning to install the EFIS G3X system from GARMIN in the RV-10, an
d I have to put power into (not more not less than) 12 devices (2 Display un
its, 2 ADAHRS, 1 engine module, 3 autopilot servos and so on).
> In some devices there are 2 independent power inputs.
>
> I am trying to figure out which will be the best architecture for the powe
r circuits to these 12 devices.
> I know that some of you are against the single Avionics switch, and I am l
eaning to agree, not including that single point of failure, but how about t
he distribution system?
> I am not searching for opinions on the breaker or fuses discussion, just t
o know what other people did or recommend to do with busses and circuits.
>
> I should add that I have a dual battery /dual alternator energy system.
> All good suggestions welcome!
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sem v=C3=ADrus. www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Powering the EFIS system |
| From: | davidsoutpost <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net> |
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IAoJCVNlbSB2w61ydXMuIHd3dy5hdmFzdC5jb20gCQkKCQoK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Powering the EFIS system |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
On 4/19/2016 10:17 PM, davidsoutpost wrote:
> All my avionics operate off a separate buss which is a blade fuse
> block. My single avionics switch operates a miniature 30 amp relay
> that powers the block.
To minimize the single point failure mode, you should wire the switch to
remove power to the relay in the 'on' position, and wire the relay so
that when the relay is off it supplies power to the avionics fuses.
No matter which part fails .... the switch or the relay ..... the
avionics fuse block still gets power.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powering the EFIS system |
So I understand this,,,,the buss will always have power to it no matter the switch
position?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 10:34:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Powering the EFIS system
On 4/19/2016 10:17 PM, davidsoutpost wrote:
All my avionics operate off a separate buss which is a blade fuse block. My single
avionics switch operates a miniature 30 amp relay that powers the block.
To minimize the single point failure mode, you should wire the switch to remove
power to the relay in the 'on' position, and wire the relay so that when the
relay is off it supplies power to the avionics fuses.
No matter which part fails .... the switch or the relay ..... the avionics fuse
block still gets power.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Powering the EFIS system |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
On 4/19/2016 10:55 PM, David Clifford wrote:
> So I understand this,,,,the buss will always have power to it no
> matter the switch position?
No. When the SPDT switch is in the 'off' position it supplies power to
the relay which is 'on' and the NC contacts remove power to the buss.
It's the inverse of what most builders will do .... SP switch on, relay
on to supply power to the buss through the NO contacts. With this
wiring method the relay is not needed if the switch has the proper
current rating. I don't know what David's panel current draw really is
but think it's way less than 30 amps.
Fuses are there to protect the wires from excess current, not the
equipment attached. So, if you have 6 ea. 5A fuses ..... that's 30A! If
every electrical item in my plane is on and stable I draw less than 6
amps. Strobes on startup and radio transmitting will add some more.
Linn
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
> *To: *rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 19, 2016 10:34:22 PM
> *Subject: *Re: RV10-List: Powering the EFIS system
>
> On 4/19/2016 10:17 PM, davidsoutpost wrote:
>
> All my avionics operate off a separate buss which is a blade fuse
> block. My single avionics switch operates a miniature 30 amp
> relay that powers the block.
>
> To minimize the single point failure mode, you should wire the switch
> to remove power to the relay in the 'on' position, and wire the relay
> so that when the relay is off it supplies power to the avionics fuses.
> No matter which part fails .... the switch or the relay ..... the
> avionics fuse block still gets power.
> Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Powering the EFIS system |
Thank you David
Please indicate the part# and source for the miniature relay you used.
And a picture of your fuse block installation would also be very welcome
Cheers
Carlos
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost
Sent: quarta-feira, 20 de Abril de 2016 03:18
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Powering the EFIS system
All my avionics operate off a separate buss which is a blade fuse block. M
y single avionics switch operates a miniature 30 amp relay that powers the
block.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Date: 04/19/2016 6:36 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: RV10-List: Powering the EFIS system
Group
I am beginning to install the EFIS G3X system from GARMIN in the RV-10, and
I have to put power into (not more not less than) 12 devices (2 Display un
its, 2 ADAHRS, 1 engine module, 3 autopilot servos and so on).
In some devices there are 2 independent power inputs.
I am trying to figure out which will be the best architecture for the power
circuits to these 12 devices.
I know that some of you are against the single Avionics switch, and I am le
aning to agree, not including that single point of failure, but how about t
he distribution system?
I am not searching for opinions on the breaker or fuses discussion, just to
know what other people did or recommend to do with busses and circuits.
I should add that I have a dual battery /dual alternator energy system.
All good suggestions welcome!
Thanks
Carlos
Sem v=C3=ADrus. www.avast.c
om
---
Este e-mail foi verificado em termos de v=C3=ADrus pelo software antiv=C3
=ADrus Avast.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Clifford <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powering the EFIS system |
I used one of these I had laying around from another project. Its mounted b
ehind the IP on the sub-panel, and is wired with 10 gauge from my main 12 v
olt power stud to the fuse block. Fuse blocks I used are from Steinair. The
fuse blocks are mounted also behind the IP on the sub-panel. Fuse blocks a
re behind the pilot side accessible by removing the GDU 370 & GDU 375 displ
ays. Sorry but I don't have a picture handy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 6:26:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Powering the EFIS system
Thank you David
Please indicate the part# and source for the miniature relay you used.
February 02, 2016 - - - - , 20-
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ln