RV10-Archive.digest.vol-mj
October 13, 2016 - December 02, 2016
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Thursday, October 6, 2016 4:26 PM
What altitude?
What off airport options are there?
I am a chicken when it comes to short runways.so I
know I would not do it, but we all have our own comfort zone. I also
don=99t believe that you want to add any risk factors you
don=99t have to for your first flight.
Rene'
801-721-6080
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2016 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Advice
Just curious - how many of you would make your first -10 flight off a
2100 foot grass strip?
Been flying my 6A out of the back yard for 900+ hours now, but did my
first flights out of LWB with 7001 feet of asphalt and crash trucks
available. Daydreaming of the day I finish the 10 and whether I would
be foolish not to disassemble it and truck it 40 miles on a roll-back
for the big day.
Insurance company might have their own thoughts on the matter.
-Bill Boyd
On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 1:10 PM, Danny Riggs > wrote:
>
Yeah, make sure your elevator is centered before take-off. Won't say how
I know THAT one! =F0=9F=98=9C
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 6, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Ron Walker > wrote:
>
>
>
> Posing the question for any sound advice you may have to offer prior
to first flight of my 10 ?
>
> I've been through first flight once already with my 7a. The 10 seems
different though. I've already done 6 hrs training in the factory 10
with Mike.
>
> Anything specific to be aware of ? Any recommendations from those that
have been through this already ? Anything you would have done
differently ?
>
> Thanks !
>
> --Ron
>
>
-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Marking acrylic windscreen |
Before I do something I regret with a sharpie, does anyone know if it's safe to
use directly on the windscreen?
Or, is there an alternative that I could utilize?
I'm looking to fair in the windscreen and need to mark the windscreen with the
7" radius so I can lay the electrical tape down.
Thanks,
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Marking acrylic windscreen |
No. Do not do it unless you are marking a line that will get cut out. If
you want to make a radius, just use the edge of the tape. No need to mark
to do this.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2016 11:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Marking acrylic windscreen
Before I do something I regret with a sharpie, does anyone know if it's safe
to use directly on the windscreen?
Or, is there an alternative that I could utilize?
I'm looking to fair in the windscreen and need to mark the windscreen with
the 7" radius so I can lay the electrical tape down.
Thanks,
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hmmm
There I said it!
Anyway, over the past few months I have developed rivet line leaks in both my QB
tanks along the inboard line of fuel tank rivets on the tank bottom. I am hoping
that it is the rivets that are leaking and not between the flange and the
bottom tank skin. Is there something special about how these inboard flanges
are sealed that makes them prone to leaks.
To date my only leaks have been on the rivets on the top of the tanks.
If the leak(s) are between the skin and the flange, is there a good (and simple)
way to correct the problem?
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marking acrylic windscreen |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
You can use 1/4 vinyl masking tape like this: https://amzn.com/B00IOQ3J9Q
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461242#461242
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
The only thing I've heard of to seal really small leaks is green
Loctite. You need to clean the hole with acetone. Pull a small vacuum
on the tank and suck the acetone through the hole .... the more the
better ..... and then let that evaporate. Then apply the loctite so it
get sucked into the hole.
Linn
On 10/13/2016 4:41 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hmmm
>
> There I said it!
>
> Anyway, over the past few months I have developed rivet line leaks in both my
QB tanks along the inboard line of fuel tank rivets on the tank bottom. I am
hoping that it is the rivets that are leaking and not between the flange and the
bottom tank skin. Is there something special about how these inboard flanges
are sealed that makes them prone to leaks.
>
> To date my only leaks have been on the rivets on the top of the tanks.
>
> If the leak(s) are between the skin and the flange, is there a good (and simple)
way to correct the problem?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
Very frustrating indeed! Real fun thing is they did not become an issue unt
il after I had the airplane painted.
I actually had pretty good success using the green Loctite (penetrating) oth
ers had recommended in the past. It took a lot of applications but no surger
y.
Marcus
> On Oct 13, 2016, at 4:41 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hmmm
>
> There I said it!
>
> Anyway, over the past few months I have developed rivet line leaks in both
my QB tanks along the inboard line of fuel tank rivets on the tank bottom. I
am hoping that it is the rivets that are leaking and not between the flange
and the bottom tank skin. Is there something special about how these inboar
d flanges are sealed that makes them prone to leaks.
>
> To date my only leaks have been on the rivets on the top of the tanks.
>
> If the leak(s) are between the skin and the flange, is there a good (and s
imple) way to correct the problem?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I decided to go to
the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My experience with this tube has
been awful. I went to this tube due to the nice 90 degree bend in the stem that
allows easier filling with air. By removing a small bit of metal on the wheel
bearing cover, you can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed
after only 6 weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch the
plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser gave me
an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube. My second tube
failed just this last week after about 5 months of flying. These tubes (made
in Thailand) are just no good. I reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin
tire on the left side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right
side. These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue will
be appreciated.
--------
See you OSH '15
Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461260#461260
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
That's odd- I've used these same tubes for three years without any problems.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 14, 2016, at 11:54 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I decided to go
to the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My experience with this tube
has been awful. I went to this tube due to the nice 90 degree bend in the stem
that allows easier filling with air. By removing a small bit of metal on the
wheel bearing cover, you can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed
after only 6 weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch
the plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser gave
me an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube. My second tube
failed just this last week after about 5 months of flying. These tubes (made
in Thailand) are just no good. I reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin
tire on the left side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right
side. These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue
will be appreciated.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '15
> Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461260#461260
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I'd like to know what/where the failures were. I suspect poor assembly
rather than inherent failures of the tubes. Or poor assumptions
relating to the mod. If you used the same hole in the wheel that was
used for the straight stem .... there's your problem. The 90* stems
line up with the parting line in the wheel and require a hole in the
parting line and another hole in the side of the outside wheel half. I
converted my Vans wheels to 90* stems. I flared the inside and outside
of the original stem hole and filled it with flox. Not flying yet so
don't know if my 'mod' is successful.
Linn
On 10/14/2016 12:54 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I decided to go
to the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My experience with this tube
has been awful. I went to this tube due to the nice 90 degree bend in the stem
that allows easier filling with air. By removing a small bit of metal on the
wheel bearing cover, you can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed
after only 6 weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch
the plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser gave
me an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube. My second tube
failed just this last week after about 5 months of flying. These tubes (made
in Thailand) are just no good. I reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin
tire on the left side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right
side. These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue
will be appreciated.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '15
> Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461260#461260
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
I had an issue where an inspection sticker inside the tire wore a hole in
the tube - I thought I got a bad tube...until I wore a hole through the
patch as I put it back together the same way it came apart.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 12:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase
After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I decided to go
to the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My experience with this
tube has been awful. I went to this tube due to the nice 90 degree bend in
the stem that allows easier filling with air. By removing a small bit of
metal on the wheel bearing cover, you can easily fill this tube with air. My
left side failed after only 6 weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was
ready to dispatch the plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of
90 days, Desser gave me an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the
defective tube. My second tube failed just this last week after about 5
months of flying. These tubes (made in Thailand) are just no good. I
reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin tire on the left side, but
I have yet to put the old tube back on the right side. These tubes are just
crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue will be appreciated.
--------
See you OSH '15
Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461260#461260
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
I have the same TU15 Desser tubes, and probably have the longest life on mine as
I got some of the first ones released. I have gone against the" replace tubes
with tires" minds and reinstalled the tubes on the new Monster tires, to date
I have had no issues of leaking at all, that's is after 4 years of flying.
I'll assume the tire pressure is more than 42psi? I run mine at 48psi and never
let them get below 44psi, I am concerned with lower pressures pinching the tires
or rubbing and my pressures seems to work as my tires look pretty good for
tread, I have no shutter (unbalanced rim still) with solid traction.
I can only think they changed manufacturer since I got my tubes. Unfortunately,
I really like mine thus far and would buy them again. How are the Vans tubes
working out? Was it only on the left side? Both times? What about the right? Is
that side fine? If so, there may be something on the left causing the issues,
and your Vans tube may be the next to go on that side... just thinking....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 9:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase
After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I decided to go to
the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My experience with this tube has
been awful. I went to this tube due to the nice 90 degree bend in the stem that
allows easier filling with air. By removing a small bit of metal on the wheel
bearing cover, you can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed
after only 6 weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch the
plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser gave me
an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube. My second tube
failed just this last week after about 5 months of flying. These tubes (made
in Thailand) are just no good. I reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin
tire on the left side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right
side. These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue will
be appreciated.
--------
See you OSH '15
Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461260#461260
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I had 2 tubes fail from Desser, not all that many flying hours apart,
also. But, mine weren't the 90 degree valve stem tubes.
One of them was a pinhole leak that just came out of nowhere.
The other was a leak that was along a little slice-like
scrape, that I have no idea how it got there. Admittedly,
I didn't thoroughly inspect the tube when I pulled it out of
the bag. I wasn't happy in either case.
Both wheels now have new-ish 90 degree stem tubes in them.
I've always run my pressues at the standard 42/40 rear/front
pressures that Van's put in the original manual, however I
think I will start raising the pressure slightly just
because we have such large temperature swings here, so if
I check them in the fall I'll go maybe 48.
Linn, I think you're mistaking his issue for the nosewheel
tube. Yes, on that one Van's sends the wrong wheel, and
then they have to re-machine the hole on the other side,
and all the things you said. But he's talking about the
15/6.00-6 main tubes. Those don't require any drilling
or anything else.
Other than these 2 tubes, I've had good luck over the past
10 years. I've replaced tires a few times and always put in
new tubes. So I'm not sure I'm ready to ditch them
yet. I WOULD be interested to see what the BEST tube
available is. I would prefer to buy a US made tube if
at all possible, and would pay a small premium for that
ability if it's a quality tube.
Tim
On 10/14/2016 11:54 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I
> decided to go to the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My
> experience with this tube has been awful. I went to this tube due to
> the nice 90 degree bend in the stem that allows easier filling with
> air. By removing a small bit of metal on the wheel bearing cover, you
> can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed after only 6
> weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch the
> plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser
> gave me an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube.
> My second tube failed just this last week after about 5 months of
> flying. These tubes (made in Thailand) are just no good. I
> reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin tire on the left
> side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right side.
> These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue
> will be appreciated.
>
> -------- See you OSH '15 Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Tim, I had to machine both my mains. That might be due to the tube
manufacturer being different. I'm guessing from your post that you used
the same hole as the straight stem??
Linn
On 10/14/2016 2:16 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I had 2 tubes fail from Desser, not all that many flying hours apart,
> also. But, mine weren't the 90 degree valve stem tubes.
> One of them was a pinhole leak that just came out of nowhere.
> The other was a leak that was along a little slice-like
> scrape, that I have no idea how it got there. Admittedly,
> I didn't thoroughly inspect the tube when I pulled it out of
> the bag. I wasn't happy in either case.
>
> Both wheels now have new-ish 90 degree stem tubes in them.
> I've always run my pressues at the standard 42/40 rear/front
> pressures that Van's put in the original manual, however I
> think I will start raising the pressure slightly just
> because we have such large temperature swings here, so if
> I check them in the fall I'll go maybe 48.
>
> Linn, I think you're mistaking his issue for the nosewheel
> tube. Yes, on that one Van's sends the wrong wheel, and
> then they have to re-machine the hole on the other side,
> and all the things you said. But he's talking about the
> 15/6.00-6 main tubes. Those don't require any drilling
> or anything else.
>
> Other than these 2 tubes, I've had good luck over the past
> 10 years. I've replaced tires a few times and always put in
> new tubes. So I'm not sure I'm ready to ditch them
> yet. I WOULD be interested to see what the BEST tube
> available is. I would prefer to buy a US made tube if
> at all possible, and would pay a small premium for that
> ability if it's a quality tube.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 10/14/2016 11:54 AM, AirMike wrote:
>>
>> After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I
>> decided to go to the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My
>> experience with this tube has been awful. I went to this tube due to
>> the nice 90 degree bend in the stem that allows easier filling with
>> air. By removing a small bit of metal on the wheel bearing cover, you
>> can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed after only 6
>> weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch the
>> plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser
>> gave me an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube.
>> My second tube failed just this last week after about 5 months of
>> flying. These tubes (made in Thailand) are just no good. I
>> reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin tire on the left
>> side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right side.
>> These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue
>> will be appreciated.
>>
>> -------- See you OSH '15 Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
The other day, my buddy was pushing the 10 back into the hanger when he
heard a cracking sound from the left main wheel pant. (See attached) We
checked the clearance from the tire and it was fine and the WP was still
very firmly attached. Tire pressure was also good.
Any ideas on what may have caused this?
Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
Yes, same holes. You have Cleveland?
That's what mine are.
Tim
> On Oct 14, 2016, at 1:27 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> Tim, I had to machine both my mains. That might be due to the tube manufacturer
being different. I'm guessing from your post that you used the same hole as
the straight stem??
> Linn
>
>> On 10/14/2016 2:16 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> I had 2 tubes fail from Desser, not all that many flying hours apart,
>> also. But, mine weren't the 90 degree valve stem tubes.
>> One of them was a pinhole leak that just came out of nowhere.
>> The other was a leak that was along a little slice-like
>> scrape, that I have no idea how it got there. Admittedly,
>> I didn't thoroughly inspect the tube when I pulled it out of
>> the bag. I wasn't happy in either case.
>>
>> Both wheels now have new-ish 90 degree stem tubes in them.
>> I've always run my pressues at the standard 42/40 rear/front
>> pressures that Van's put in the original manual, however I
>> think I will start raising the pressure slightly just
>> because we have such large temperature swings here, so if
>> I check them in the fall I'll go maybe 48.
>>
>> Linn, I think you're mistaking his issue for the nosewheel
>> tube. Yes, on that one Van's sends the wrong wheel, and
>> then they have to re-machine the hole on the other side,
>> and all the things you said. But he's talking about the
>> 15/6.00-6 main tubes. Those don't require any drilling
>> or anything else.
>>
>> Other than these 2 tubes, I've had good luck over the past
>> 10 years. I've replaced tires a few times and always put in
>> new tubes. So I'm not sure I'm ready to ditch them
>> yet. I WOULD be interested to see what the BEST tube
>> available is. I would prefer to buy a US made tube if
>> at all possible, and would pay a small premium for that
>> ability if it's a quality tube.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>> On 10/14/2016 11:54 AM, AirMike wrote:
>>>
>>> After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I
>>> decided to go to the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My
>>> experience with this tube has been awful. I went to this tube due to
>>> the nice 90 degree bend in the stem that allows easier filling with
>>> air. By removing a small bit of metal on the wheel bearing cover, you
>>> can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed after only 6
>>> weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch the
>>> plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser
>>> gave me an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube.
>>> My second tube failed just this last week after about 5 months of
>>> flying. These tubes (made in Thailand) are just no good. I
>>> reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin tire on the left
>>> side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right side.
>>> These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue
>>> will be appreciated.
>>>
>>> -------- See you OSH '15 Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
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dGhpcz8NCg0KU2hhbm5vbg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
The wheel pants were off for condition inspection just 3 weeks ago and
there was no sign of damage and we have about 1/2" of gap between the tire
and WP at this point. I can't imagine how hard of a landing it would take
to bulge the aft portion of the tire 1/2".
We are hangered at EFD so have smoothish asphalt everywhere....
Shannon
On Oct 14, 2016 2:02 PM, "P Reid" wrote:
> Unless his hangar has potholes there is nothing I can think of.
>
> I did have the same situation except in my case I was taxiing across a
> grass strip to get to runway and I went into a slight ditch that was enou
gh
> to cause the fairing to crack.
>
> Your picture looks like a fairing that was cracked due to a heavy landing
> and tires hitting it. Is he sure it wasn=99t this way before he hea
rd that
> noise? As for clearance it needs to be about =C2=BC inch or more away fro
m tire
> to be fine.
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Shannon Hicks
> *Sent:* Friday, October 14, 2016 11:33 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Weird Broken Wheel Pant
>
>
> The other day, my buddy was pushing the 10 back into the hanger when he
> heard a cracking sound from the left main wheel pant. (See attached) We
> checked the clearance from the tire and it was fine and the WP was still
> very firmly attached. Tire pressure was also good.
>
> Any ideas on what may have caused this?
>
> Shannon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
The damage does appear to be from the tire. The reason I say that is
the break down the middle and the oval breaks around the outside. Also
notice a black mark to the left of the center crack at the wheel cutout.
How it got there .... I haven't got a clue.
Linn ....... might have been an accident investigator in a previous life
On 10/14/2016 2:32 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
> The other day, my buddy was pushing the 10 back into the hanger when
> he heard a cracking sound from the left main wheel pant. (See
> attached) We checked the clearance from the tire and it was fine and
> the WP was still very firmly attached. Tire pressure was also good.
>
> Any ideas on what may have caused this?
>
> Shannon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
So, I think I may have figured this one out. I recently spent a week at
another airport and the FBO had to park me in a remote location. When I
showed up to leave they had chocks on the pilot side main gear. I think
they may have been too tall and point loaded the rear part of the WP. I
never noticed since in was on the underside.
Does that sound plausible?
Shannon
On Oct 14, 2016 2:08 PM, "Shannon Hicks" wrote:
> The wheel pants were off for condition inspection just 3 weeks ago and
> there was no sign of damage and we have about 1/2" of gap between the tir
e
> and WP at this point. I can't imagine how hard of a landing it would take
> to bulge the aft portion of the tire 1/2".
>
> We are hangered at EFD so have smoothish asphalt everywhere....
>
> Shannon
>
> On Oct 14, 2016 2:02 PM, "P Reid" wrote:
>
>> Unless his hangar has potholes there is nothing I can think of.
>>
>> I did have the same situation except in my case I was taxiing across a
>> grass strip to get to runway and I went into a slight ditch that was eno
ugh
>> to cause the fairing to crack.
>>
>> Your picture looks like a fairing that was cracked due to a heavy landin
g
>> and tires hitting it. Is he sure it wasn=99t this way before he he
ard that
>> noise? As for clearance it needs to be about =C2=BC inch or more away fr
om tire
>> to be fine.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
>> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Shannon Hicks
>> *Sent:* Friday, October 14, 2016 11:33 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Weird Broken Wheel Pant
>>
>>
>>
>> The other day, my buddy was pushing the 10 back into the hanger when he
>> heard a cracking sound from the left main wheel pant. (See attached) We
>> checked the clearance from the tire and it was fine and the WP was still
>> very firmly attached. Tire pressure was also good.
>>
>> Any ideas on what may have caused this?
>>
>> Shannon
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Yes, they're Cleveland. However I have a tube with 90* stem in my shop
that has the offset to fit the straight stem wheel. It would point to
the outside of the wheel, not parallel with the axle. I think the tubes
I have came from Desser, but were not the Leak Guard. The stem is in
the center of the inside of the tube, and when mounted the stem is
naturally parallel to the axle, so that drove my mod.
Linn
On 10/14/2016 2:48 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Yes, same holes. You have Cleveland?
> That's what mine are.
> Tim
>
>> On Oct 14, 2016, at 1:27 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>>
>> Tim, I had to machine both my mains. That might be due to the tube manufacturer
being different. I'm guessing from your post that you used the same hole
as the straight stem??
>> Linn
>>
>>> On 10/14/2016 2:16 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> I had 2 tubes fail from Desser, not all that many flying hours apart,
>>> also. But, mine weren't the 90 degree valve stem tubes.
>>> One of them was a pinhole leak that just came out of nowhere.
>>> The other was a leak that was along a little slice-like
>>> scrape, that I have no idea how it got there. Admittedly,
>>> I didn't thoroughly inspect the tube when I pulled it out of
>>> the bag. I wasn't happy in either case.
>>>
>>> Both wheels now have new-ish 90 degree stem tubes in them.
>>> I've always run my pressues at the standard 42/40 rear/front
>>> pressures that Van's put in the original manual, however I
>>> think I will start raising the pressure slightly just
>>> because we have such large temperature swings here, so if
>>> I check them in the fall I'll go maybe 48.
>>>
>>> Linn, I think you're mistaking his issue for the nosewheel
>>> tube. Yes, on that one Van's sends the wrong wheel, and
>>> then they have to re-machine the hole on the other side,
>>> and all the things you said. But he's talking about the
>>> 15/6.00-6 main tubes. Those don't require any drilling
>>> or anything else.
>>>
>>> Other than these 2 tubes, I've had good luck over the past
>>> 10 years. I've replaced tires a few times and always put in
>>> new tubes. So I'm not sure I'm ready to ditch them
>>> yet. I WOULD be interested to see what the BEST tube
>>> available is. I would prefer to buy a US made tube if
>>> at all possible, and would pay a small premium for that
>>> ability if it's a quality tube.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 10/14/2016 11:54 AM, AirMike wrote:
>>>>
>>>> After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I
>>>> decided to go to the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My
>>>> experience with this tube has been awful. I went to this tube due to
>>>> the nice 90 degree bend in the stem that allows easier filling with
>>>> air. By removing a small bit of metal on the wheel bearing cover, you
>>>> can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed after only 6
>>>> weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch the
>>>> plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser
>>>> gave me an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube.
>>>> My second tube failed just this last week after about 5 months of
>>>> flying. These tubes (made in Thailand) are just no good. I
>>>> reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin tire on the left
>>>> side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right side.
>>>> These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue
>>>> will be appreciated.
>>>>
>>>> -------- See you OSH '15 Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Plausible! I would think the lineboy (or linegirl :-)) would have heard
it crack though and didn't want to get into trouble.
I've never let anyone else park and tie down my plane and I have always
carried 1 1/2" aluminum angle for chocks. I also hold the hose when
refueling.
Linn
On 10/14/2016 3:20 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
> So, I think I may have figured this one out. I recently spent a week
> at another airport and the FBO had to park me in a remote location.
> When I showed up to leave they had chocks on the pilot side main gear.
> I think they may have been too tall and point loaded the rear part of
> the WP. I never noticed since in was on the underside.
>
> Does that sound plausible?
>
> Shannon
>
>
> On Oct 14, 2016 2:08 PM, "Shannon Hicks" > wrote:
>
> The wheel pants were off for condition inspection just 3 weeks ago
> and there was no sign of damage and we have about 1/2" of gap
> between the tire and WP at this point. I can't imagine how hard of
> a landing it would take to bulge the aft portion of the tire 1/2".
>
> We are hangered at EFD so have smoothish asphalt everywhere....
>
> Shannon
>
>
> On Oct 14, 2016 2:02 PM, "P Reid" > wrote:
>
> Unless his hangar has potholes there is nothing I can think of.
>
> I did have the same situation except in my case I was taxiing
> across a grass strip to get to runway and I went into a slight
> ditch that was enough to cause the fairing to crack.
>
> Your picture looks like a fairing that was cracked due to a
> heavy landing and tires hitting it. Is he sure it wasnt this
> way before he heard that noise? As for clearance it needs to
> be about inch or more away from tire to be fine.
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *On Behalf Of
> *Shannon Hicks
> *Sent:* Friday, October 14, 2016 11:33 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Weird Broken Wheel Pant
>
> The other day, my buddy was pushing the 10 back into the
> hanger when he heard a cracking sound from the left main wheel
> pant. (See attached) We checked the clearance from the tire
> and it was fine and the WP was still very firmly attached.
> Tire pressure was also good.
>
> Any ideas on what may have caused this?
>
> Shannon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
That makes sense =93 I carry my own made of PVC
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shannon Hicks
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 3:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weird Broken Wheel Pant
So, I think I may have figured this one out. I recently spent a week at
another airport and the FBO had to park me in a remote location. When I
showed up to leave they had chocks on the pilot side main gear. I think
they may have been too tall and point loaded the rear part of the WP. I
never noticed since in was on the underside.
Does that sound plausible?
Shannon
On Oct 14, 2016 2:08 PM, "Shannon Hicks" > wrote:
The wheel pants were off for condition inspection just 3 weeks ago and
there was no sign of damage and we have about 1/2" of gap between the
tire and WP at this point. I can't imagine how hard of a landing it
would take to bulge the aft portion of the tire 1/2".
We are hangered at EFD so have smoothish asphalt everywhere....
Shannon
On Oct 14, 2016 2:02 PM, "P Reid" > wrote:
Unless his hangar has potholes there is nothing I can think of.
I did have the same situation except in my case I was taxiing across a
grass strip to get to runway and I went into a slight ditch that was
enough to cause the fairing to crack.
Your picture looks like a fairing that was cracked due to a heavy
landing and tires hitting it. Is he sure it wasn=99t this way
before he heard that noise? As for clearance it needs to be about =C2=BC
inch or more away from tire to be fine.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
] On Behalf Of Shannon
Hicks
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 11:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Weird Broken Wheel Pant
The other day, my buddy was pushing the 10 back into the hanger when he
heard a cracking sound from the left main wheel pant. (See attached) We
checked the clearance from the tire and it was fine and the WP was still
very firmly attached. Tire pressure was also good.
Any ideas on what may have caused this?
Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
You think 1/2" is plenty? I personally don't think so. I'd go with more
like 5/8-3/4"
Tim
On 10/14/2016 2:37 PM, P Reid wrote:
> Yes, your is plenty so that wasnt it on landing, just like my
> pothole, putting pressure on the WB by a chock could do this. I can see
> for sure that a chock could be too tall; the plane may have rolled back
> and the weight would absolutely cause this. Looks like the pressure was
> right below the drain hole. I have my own Angle to serve as chocks, they
> fit tightly and accomplish the no move goal.
>
>
> I was totally kidding about the pothole in your hangar, but rolling a
> plane back into a hangar wouldnt cause this much damage unless the
> wheel pant sat on something after being dropped (aka wood blocks
> holding up gear and it slipping off onto the blocks.
>
> I think you have this one solved however.
>
> Easy fix- 2 ply on outside, flox on cracks will easily resolve the issue
> with plenty of strength and easy to repaint since no one sees it!
>
> Pascal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weird Broken Wheel Pant |
Tim,
I'm redoing the fiberglass now, so will look at the gap.
Thanks for the tip.
On Oct 14, 2016 3:23 PM, "Tim Olson" wrote:
>
> You think 1/2" is plenty? I personally don't think so. I'd go with more
> like 5/8-3/4"
>
> Tim
>
> On 10/14/2016 2:37 PM, P Reid wrote:
>
>> Yes, your =C2=BD is plenty so that wasn=99t it on landing, just li
ke my
>> pothole, putting pressure on the WB by a chock could do this. I can see
>> for sure that a chock could be too tall; the plane may have rolled back
>> and the weight would absolutely cause this. Looks like the pressure was
>> right below the drain hole. I have my own Angle to serve as chocks, they
>> fit tightly and accomplish the =9Cno move=9D goal.
>>
>>
>>
>> I was totally kidding about the pothole in your hangar, but rolling a
>> plane back into a hangar wouldn=99t cause this much damage unless
the
>> wheel pant =9Csat=9D on something after being dropped (aka w
ood blocks
>> holding up gear and it slipping off onto the blocks.
>>
>> I think you have this one solved however.
>>
>> Easy fix- 2 ply on outside, flox on cracks will easily resolve the issue
>> with plenty of strength and easy to repaint since no one sees it!
>>
>> Pascal
>>
>>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I did not put a new hole in the rim as the tube stem lined up fine when installed.
The leak on the left tube that I returned to Desser was in the side wall of
the tube. There was no abrasion on the tube, but it appeared as a "casting"
flaw in the tube where the leak originated. I have not taken the leaking right
tire tube off yet to diagnose the issue. Desser will not give me a refund after
90 days.
Has anyone ever used that slime stuff to stop a leak??
--------
See you OSH '15
Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461285#461285
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I contemplated the slime thing when I was AOG recently.
I'm split on what to do. On one hand, it could
work. On the other, if it leaks out of the tube
you'll have a mess inside your tire and you
probably will plan to re-use the tire. So that would
kind of suck.
On the other hand, if you're stuck out in the boonies and
have no jack, the slime could be a quick fix.
On the 3rd hand (must be an octopus)... If you did use
slime, there are caveats. One being you have to roll
the tire to distribute it. Not a big deal if you have
a jack but if not it wouldn't be convenient. Also, you'd
want to let it sit for a good amount of time to ensure
it indeed was holding. Otherwise, your next experience
with that tire is going to be when you land somewhere...not
the time to have an issue.
I would feel comfortable with an actual tube patch,
and now I carry multiple tube patches in each plane.
2 tubes of cement, and about 5 patches.
I never want to be stuck due to a tube again.
Personally I'd only use the slime in an airplane as
a last resort, but in a car I'd perhaps consider it
quicker.
Tim
On 10/14/2016 3:51 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I did not put a new hole in the rim as the tube stem lined up fine
> when installed. The leak on the left tube that I returned to Desser
> was in the side wall of the tube. There was no abrasion on the tube,
> but it appeared as a "casting" flaw in the tube where the leak
> originated. I have not taken the leaking right tire tube off yet to
> diagnose the issue. Desser will not give me a refund after 90 days.
> Has anyone ever used that slime stuff to stop a leak??
>
> -------- See you OSH '15 Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Good thoughts on the subject. Gotta get my patch kit. Yes, you definitely want
to turn the tire to distribute the material.
Another thought is that if you cannot spin the tire vigorously as in jacking and
spinning then you want to taxi quite a bit to distribute the stuff and see that
it covers the interior of the tube.
In the mean time, it looks like "Aero Classics" has changed vendors and the QC
is not so great, or that I just got a bum batch. Either way, it is a pain to mess
around with the tires that much after spending $400 on new mounts.
PS did you or anyone else put air access doors in their wheel pants?
--------
See you OSH '15
Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461289#461289
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
I didn't yet but am interested now.
Jesse, you had a cirrus part that looked good. Any pics or details on that?
Tim
> On Oct 14, 2016, at 4:27 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> Good thoughts on the subject. Gotta get my patch kit. Yes, you definitely want
to turn the tire to distribute the material.
>
> Another thought is that if you cannot spin the tire vigorously as in jacking
and spinning then you want to taxi quite a bit to distribute the stuff and see
that it covers the interior of the tube.
>
> In the mean time, it looks like "Aero Classics" has changed vendors and the QC
is not so great, or that I just got a bum batch. Either way, it is a pain to
mess around with the tires that much after spending $400 on new mounts.
>
> PS did you or anyone else put air access doors in their wheel pants?
>
> --------
> See you OSH '15
> Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461289#461289
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
Any cirrus parts house (service center) will sell you a plastic wheel pant plug.
It's 2" in diameter and made out if white plastic. It can be painted. Center
of the hole works well 2-2.5" aft of the axle screw and 1/2" down. Pretty simple
mod.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 14, 2016, at 6:01 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I didn't yet but am interested now.
> Jesse, you had a cirrus part that looked good. Any pics or details on that?
> Tim
>
>> On Oct 14, 2016, at 4:27 PM, AirMike wrote:
>>
>>
>> Good thoughts on the subject. Gotta get my patch kit. Yes, you definitely want
to turn the tire to distribute the material.
>>
>> Another thought is that if you cannot spin the tire vigorously as in jacking
and spinning then you want to taxi quite a bit to distribute the stuff and see
that it covers the interior of the tube.
>>
>> In the mean time, it looks like "Aero Classics" has changed vendors and the
QC is not so great, or that I just got a bum batch. Either way, it is a pain to
mess around with the tires that much after spending $400 on new mounts.
>>
>> PS did you or anyone else put air access doors in their wheel pants?
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '15
>> Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461289#461289
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
I used this:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/lg/wheel_wheelaccess/accessdoors.php
I paint a line on the tire such that when the line is pointed to the ground
the door lines up with the air valve. You need to have an extension like
this:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/5-Valve-Stem-Extension/productinfo/VSE5/#.WAFj
s-grKUk
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not
purchase
Any cirrus parts house (service center) will sell you a plastic wheel pant
plug. It's 2" in diameter and made out if white plastic. It can be painted.
Center of the hole works well 2-2.5" aft of the axle screw and 1/2" down.
Pretty simple mod.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 14, 2016, at 6:01 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I didn't yet but am interested now.
> Jesse, you had a cirrus part that looked good. Any pics or details on
that?
> Tim
>
>> On Oct 14, 2016, at 4:27 PM, AirMike wrote:
>>
>>
>> Good thoughts on the subject. Gotta get my patch kit. Yes, you definitely
want to turn the tire to distribute the material.
>>
>> Another thought is that if you cannot spin the tire vigorously as in
jacking and spinning then you want to taxi quite a bit to distribute the
stuff and see that it covers the interior of the tube.
>>
>> In the mean time, it looks like "Aero Classics" has changed vendors and
the QC is not so great, or that I just got a bum batch. Either way, it is a
pain to mess around with the tires that much after spending $400 on new
mounts.
>>
>> PS did you or anyone else put air access doors in their wheel pants?
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '15
>> Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461289#461289
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
I'll chime in and offer up what Mark Cooper did. Here's his blog entry
about it.
https://myrv10factory.wordpress.com/2014/02/04/wheel-pant-modification-cowl-
hinge-pin-retainer-and-an-unexpected-surprise/
More pics here.
https://myrv10factory.wordpress.com/2014/02/05/wheel-pants-are-wrapped-up-pr
eparing-cowling-and-additional-fiberglass-finese/
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
Good thoughts on the subject. Gotta get my patch kit. Yes, you definitely
want to turn the tire to distribute the material.
Another thought is that if you cannot spin the tire vigorously as in jacking
and spinning then you want to taxi quite a bit to distribute the stuff and
see that it covers the interior of the tube.
In the mean time, it looks like "Aero Classics" has changed vendors and the
QC is not so great, or that I just got a bum batch. Either way, it is a pain
to mess around with the tires that much after spending $400 on new mounts.
PS did you or anyone else put air access doors in their wheel pants?
--------
See you OSH '15
Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461289#461289
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I converted my straight valve stem to 90*. I had to modify the wheel
but there are tubes out there that use the same hole as the straight stem.
I ordered 6 1/2" extensions from http://www.eezrvproduct.com/ ...... $6 ea.
A 3/8 hole in the wheelpant for access and a plastic plug to cover the
hole. A spot of paint on the inside of the tire when the stem is lined
up with the hole makes it easy to line up.
Linn
On 10/14/2016 5:27 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> Good thoughts on the subject. Gotta get my patch kit. Yes, you definitely want
to turn the tire to distribute the material.
>
> Another thought is that if you cannot spin the tire vigorously as in jacking
and spinning then you want to taxi quite a bit to distribute the stuff and see
that it covers the interior of the tube.
>
> In the mean time, it looks like "Aero Classics" has changed vendors and the QC
is not so great, or that I just got a bum batch. Either way, it is a pain to
mess around with the tires that much after spending $400 on new mounts.
>
> PS did you or anyone else put air access doors in their wheel pants?
>
> --------
> See you OSH '15
> Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461289#461289
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aero Classic Leak guard inner tubes - do not purchase |
I have to think you got a bad pair of tubes. I bought the exact tubes that
were recommended on Tim's web page, probably around 3 years ago when I was
mounting the gear legs. They are the Desser Leakguard variety, inside
Desser standard recaps. I have been flying since April, and most add air
every 6 wks or so, which is aggravated by our major temp changes. I suppose
I should get a patch kit to put in the airplane spares kit.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Fri, Oct 14, 2016 at 11:48 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Yes, same holes. You have Cleveland?
> That's what mine are.
> Tim
>
> > On Oct 14, 2016, at 1:27 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> >
> >
> > Tim, I had to machine both my mains. That might be due to the tube
> manufacturer being different. I'm guessing from your post that you used
> the same hole as the straight stem??
> > Linn
> >
> >> On 10/14/2016 2:16 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> >>
> >> I had 2 tubes fail from Desser, not all that many flying hours apart,
> >> also. But, mine weren't the 90 degree valve stem tubes.
> >> One of them was a pinhole leak that just came out of nowhere.
> >> The other was a leak that was along a little slice-like
> >> scrape, that I have no idea how it got there. Admittedly,
> >> I didn't thoroughly inspect the tube when I pulled it out of
> >> the bag. I wasn't happy in either case.
> >>
> >> Both wheels now have new-ish 90 degree stem tubes in them.
> >> I've always run my pressues at the standard 42/40 rear/front
> >> pressures that Van's put in the original manual, however I
> >> think I will start raising the pressure slightly just
> >> because we have such large temperature swings here, so if
> >> I check them in the fall I'll go maybe 48.
> >>
> >> Linn, I think you're mistaking his issue for the nosewheel
> >> tube. Yes, on that one Van's sends the wrong wheel, and
> >> then they have to re-machine the hole on the other side,
> >> and all the things you said. But he's talking about the
> >> 15/6.00-6 main tubes. Those don't require any drilling
> >> or anything else.
> >>
> >> Other than these 2 tubes, I've had good luck over the past
> >> 10 years. I've replaced tires a few times and always put in
> >> new tubes. So I'm not sure I'm ready to ditch them
> >> yet. I WOULD be interested to see what the BEST tube
> >> available is. I would prefer to buy a US made tube if
> >> at all possible, and would pay a small premium for that
> >> ability if it's a quality tube.
> >>
> >> Tim
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 10/14/2016 11:54 AM, AirMike wrote:
> >>>
> >>> After struggling with the straight tube OEM Vans inner tube, I
> >>> decided to go to the Aero Classic from Desser Tire TU15/600-6. My
> >>> experience with this tube has been awful. I went to this tube due to
> >>> the nice 90 degree bend in the stem that allows easier filling with
> >>> air. By removing a small bit of metal on the wheel bearing cover, you
> >>> can easily fill this tube with air. My left side failed after only 6
> >>> weeks leaving me with a flat tire when I was ready to dispatch the
> >>> plane for an important flight. Since I was inside of 90 days, Desser
> >>> gave me an RMA and I got a credit (not refund) on the defective tube.
> >>> My second tube failed just this last week after about 5 months of
> >>> flying. These tubes (made in Thailand) are just no good. I
> >>> reinstalled my old Vans tube on the new Michelin tire on the left
> >>> side, but I have yet to put the old tube back on the right side.
> >>> These tubes are just crap. Any suggestions or comments on this issue
> >>> will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>> -------- See you OSH '15 Q/B - flying 6 yrs.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another windscreen Q |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I used an aluminum windshield fairing, instead of fiberglass. I really like it,
and it turned out great. Can't remember the name of the company I bought it from.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461300#461300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
Disclaimer: I have some slowly seeping rivets on y 20year old 6, but have
not yet performed this repair. I have read about it and thought about it
quite a bit.
Pulling vacuum on the fuel tank is inherently risky, as atmospheric
pressure can distort and crease the tank if it should partially collapse.
It takes surprisingly little vacuum, I am told, to accomplish this.
Since the idea is to create a pressure differential across the leaking area
to migrate solvent and Loctite into the area, I believe a suitable and
completely safe alternative is to apply local higher pressure to the
outside of the tank, instead of pulling vacuum on the inside. A syringe
attached to a suction cup, or with the tip cut off to leave a straight
cylinder, ringed with a bead of RTV(cured) to allow a press-seal against
the tank skin, should suffice to apply gentle pressure. This should let
you push the acetone and the green Loctite in without risking any
structural damage. Pressure should only be needed for a few seconds, not
for the entire Loctite curing time. With a suitable seal on the hose end,
you could use the pressure side of your shop vac to accomplish this.
My opinion only, FWIW.
Bill B
On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 5:02 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> The only thing I've heard of to seal really small leaks is green Loctite.
> You need to clean the hole with acetone. Pull a small vacuum on the tank
> and suck the acetone through the hole .... the more the better ..... and
> then let that evaporate. Then apply the loctite so it get sucked into the
> hole.
> Linn
>
>
> On 10/13/2016 4:41 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>>
>> Hmmm
>>
>> There I said it!
>>
>> Anyway, over the past few months I have developed rivet line leaks in
>> both my QB tanks along the inboard line of fuel tank rivets on the tank
>> bottom. I am hoping that it is the rivets that are leaking and not between
>> the flange and the bottom tank skin. Is there something special about how
>> these inboard flanges are sealed that makes them prone to leaks.
>>
>> To date my only leaks have been on the rivets on the top of the tanks.
>>
>> If the leak(s) are between the skin and the flange, is there a good (and
>> simple) way to correct the problem?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
sportav8r(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Disclaimer: I have some slowly seeping rivets on y 20year old 6, but have not
yet performed this repair. I have read about it and thought about it quite a
bit.
>
> Pulling vacuum on the fuel tank is inherently risky, as atmospheric pressure
can distort and crease the tank if it should partially collapse. It takes surprisingly
little vacuum, I am told, to accomplish this.
>
>
> Since the idea is to create a pressure differential across the leaking area to
migrate solvent and Loctite into the area, I believe a suitable and completely
safe alternative is to apply local higher pressure to the outside of the tank,
instead of pulling vacuum on the inside. A syringe attached to a suction cup,
or with the tip cut off to leave a straight cylinder, ringed with a bead of
RTV(cured) to allow a press-seal against the tank skin, should suffice to apply
gentle pressure. This should let you push the acetone and the green Loctite
in without risking any structural damage. Pressure should only be needed for
a few seconds, not for the entire Loctite curing time. With a suitable seal on
the hose end, you could use the pressure side of your shop vac to accomplish
this.
>
>
>
[/quote]
This procedure has been used successfully. I first heard about it from Dan Landry
who successfully cured seeping rivets on his RV-6 tanks using a syringe as
you describe. He used Plio Bond instead of green loctite. I tried this on two
long time seeping rivets on my RV-10 last spring prior to the airplane being repainted.
It has been successful for me at this time. Airplane repainted in May
and so far, no more seeping on the offending rivets.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461303#461303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Great thoughts Bill! The more options there are, the better the choice
that fits the circumstances. The vacuum method allows you to treat many
leaks simultaneously without damage if you're careful. A really slow
leak will take longer to see results.
Actually, a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler generates enough
'suction' to get the liquid through the hole. If the drop(s) don't
disappear loosely fit a rag around the hose. The drawback is the noise.
A Mighty Vac hooked up to the vent line will work also. You'll run out
of gripping power before you pull enough vacuum to deform the tank.
Either way, if your method of choice starts to deform the tank ....
quit! That's too much and unnecessary. Work slowly and carefully.
Linn
On 10/15/2016 8:57 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
> Disclaimer: I have some slowly seeping rivets on y 20year old 6, but
> have not yet performed this repair. I have read about it and thought
> about it quite a bit.
>
> Pulling vacuum on the fuel tank is inherently risky, as atmospheric
> pressure can distort and crease the tank if it should partially
> collapse. It takes surprisingly little vacuum, I am told, to
> accomplish this.
>
> Since the idea is to create a pressure differential across the leaking
> area to migrate solvent and Loctite into the area, I believe a
> suitable and completely safe alternative is to apply local higher
> pressure to the outside of the tank, instead of pulling vacuum on the
> inside. A syringe attached to a suction cup, or with the tip cut off
> to leave a straight cylinder, ringed with a bead of RTV(cured) to
> allow a press-seal against the tank skin, should suffice to apply
> gentle pressure. This should let you push the acetone and the green
> Loctite in without risking any structural damage. Pressure should only
> be needed for a few seconds, not for the entire Loctite curing time.
> With a suitable seal on the hose end, you could use the pressure side
> of your shop vac to accomplish this.
>
> My opinion only, FWIW.
>
> Bill B
>
> On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 5:02 PM, Linn Walters > wrote:
>
> >
>
> The only thing I've heard of to seal really small leaks is green
> Loctite. You need to clean the hole with acetone. Pull a small
> vacuum on the tank and suck the acetone through the hole .... the
> more the better ..... and then let that evaporate. Then apply the
> loctite so it get sucked into the hole.
> Linn
>
>
> On 10/13/2016 4:41 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> >
>
> Hmmm
>
> There I said it!
>
> Anyway, over the past few months I have developed rivet line
> leaks in both my QB tanks along the inboard line of fuel tank
> rivets on the tank bottom. I am hoping that it is the rivets
> that are leaking and not between the flange and the bottom
> tank skin. Is there something special about how these inboard
> flanges are sealed that makes them prone to leaks.
>
> To date my only leaks have been on the rivets on the top of
> the tanks.
>
> If the leak(s) are between the skin and the flange, is there
> a good (and simple) way to correct the problem?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241
> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241>
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
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> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Whoaaa, hold that shop-vac! "a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler" with fuel or
just fuel vapors in the tank is a surefire way to blow yourself up... as the
vapors travel right through the motor that sparks at the brushes.
Lenny
flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
> Great thoughts Bill! The more options there are, the better the choice
that fits the circumstances. The vacuum method allows you to treat many
leaks simultaneously without damage if you're careful. A really slow leak
will take longer to see results.
>
> Actually, a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler generates enough
'suction' to get the liquid through the hole. If the drop(s) don't disappear
loosely fit a rag around the hose. The drawback is the noise.
> A Mighty Vac hooked up to the vent line will work also. You'll run
out of gripping power before you pull enough vacuum to deform the tank.
Either way, if your method of choice starts to deform the tank .... quit!
That's too much and unnecessary. Work slowly and carefully.
> Linn
>
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461305#461305
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
First off, the blowing up shop vac just doesn't happen (myth busters
really tried hard to make it happen .... they loved blowing things up!)
.... and I give the RV-10 crowd enough intelligence to not work on a
tank with fuel in it. However, if you don't feel safe using the shop vac
then do things like Bill pointed out. YMMV!!!
IMHO,
Linn
On 10/15/2016 12:14 PM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Whoaaa, hold that shop-vac! "a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler" with fuel
or just fuel vapors in the tank is a surefire way to blow yourself up... as the
vapors travel right through the motor that sparks at the brushes.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> Great thoughts Bill! The more options there are, the better the choice
that fits the circumstances. The vacuum method allows you to treat many
leaks simultaneously without damage if you're careful. A really slow leak
will take longer to see results.
>>
>> Actually, a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler generates enough
'suction' to get the liquid through the hole. If the drop(s) don't disappear
loosely fit a rag around the hose. The drawback is the noise.
>> A Mighty Vac hooked up to the vent line will work also. You'll
run out of gripping power before you pull enough vacuum to deform the
tank. Either way, if your method of choice starts to deform the tank ....
quit! That's too much and unnecessary. Work slowly and carefully.
>> Linn
>>
>>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461305#461305
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Lenny
You are a spoil sport. I was looking forward to a big bang event!
Actually, if I was going to pull a vacuum, I would use a shop vac attached to my
compressor. On of those small compressed air vacs used when building.
I said "if" because I wouldn't try to pull a vacuum as too much negative pressure
would quickly collapse the tank - it wouldn't take much. I once say a pic
of a heavy walled refinery vessel that collapsed after a hydro test. The water
was allowed to drain but the relief valve didn't open so the draining water caused
a partial vacuum. Simple pressure physics took over and the vessel was
toast.
Now what I would be interested in is how to "inject" locktite between the inboard
skin and flange if that is what is leaking (rather than the flange rivets).
Perhaps RTVing a syringe on to the leaking portion of the seam.
Cheers
Les
[quote="Lenny Iszak"]Whoaaa, hold that shop-vac! "a shop-vac loosely in the fuel
filler" with fuel or just fuel vapors in the tank is a surefire way to blow
yourself up... as the vapors travel right through the motor that sparks at the
brushes.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461306#461306
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Yeah, but, at least the explosion will be in the shop vac, so it
probably wouldn't destroy the plane unless the flames also got near the
filler opening and caused them to ignite too. So it would only cause
serious injury or death, but wouldn't total the airplane necessarily.
:)
tongue in cheek of course.
Tim
On 10/15/2016 11:14 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Whoaaa, hold that shop-vac! "a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler" with fuel
or just fuel vapors in the tank is a surefire way to blow yourself up... as the
vapors travel right through the motor that sparks at the brushes.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> Great thoughts Bill! The more options there are, the better the choice
that fits the circumstances. The vacuum method allows you to treat many
leaks simultaneously without damage if you're careful. A really slow leak
will take longer to see results.
>>
>> Actually, a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler generates enough
'suction' to get the liquid through the hole. If the drop(s) don't disappear
loosely fit a rag around the hose. The drawback is the noise.
>> A Mighty Vac hooked up to the vent line will work also. You'll
run out of gripping power before you pull enough vacuum to deform the tank.
Either way, if your method of choice starts to deform the tank ....
quit! That's too much and unnecessary. Work slowly and carefully.
>> Linn
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | windshield service life? |
Having owned a C177RG for 29 years I recall only one windshield change.
Anyone have any idea about the service life of the windshield as provided by
Vans for the RV10? Obviously it will be a pain to replace.
David McNeill
N46007 8 years and 1100tt
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Plexus and Plexall |
I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The
current price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37
Plexall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
David McNeill
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexus and Plexall |
There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well from Avi
ation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five dolla
rs a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south east ha
ngar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything else. It
's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
Tim
> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David wrote:
>
> I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The cur
rent price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37 Ple
xall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
>
> David McNeill
>
>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexus and Plexall |
| From: | Metrocast <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
I use LP Aero plastics
Got good reviews on aviation consumer
Alan
n668g
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 15, 2016, at 5:00 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well from A
viation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five dol
lars a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south east h
angar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything else. I
t's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
> Tim
>
>> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David wrote:
>>
>> I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The cu
rrent price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37 Pl
exall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
>>
>> David McNeill
>>
>>
>>
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> www.avast.com
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: windshield service life? |
A lot of it depends on how you treat it. Keep it hangared and clean,
and it=99ll last a long time. The windscreen on my RV-6 is 15
years old and in excellent condition. I=99d expect it to go
another 15 years, easily.
From: David
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2016 4:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: windshield service life?
Having owned a C177RG for 29 years I recall only one windshield change.
Anyone have any idea about the service life of the windshield as
provided by Vans for the RV10? Obviously it will be a pain to replace.
David McNeill
N46007 8 years and 1100tt
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
software.
www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexus and Plexall |
Amazon had Plexall at $14.95 for a 16oz spray bottle. https://www.amazon.co
m/gp/aw/d/B01EM5J9T6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476579125&sr=8-1&pi
=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=plexall&dpPl=1&dpID=41SFzC1jMHL&ref=
plSrch
Marcus
> On Oct 15, 2016, at 5:00 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well from A
viation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five dol
lars a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south east h
angar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything else. I
t's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
> Tim
>
>> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David wrote:
>>
>> I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The cu
rrent price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37 Pl
exall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
>>
>> David McNeill
>>
>>
>>
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> www.avast.com
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | leaking fuel tanks |
My 15 year old RV8, with QB tanks had been leaking on the left tank for
the last 10 years. Every method to fix it, including the ones mentioned
in this thread were employed, with mixed results. Some even worked for
awhile, only to start leaking again a few months later. I lost count of
how many times that tank came off the wing. The biggest problem was the
lower inboard flange. I was slowly beat down where I was willing to live
with the small seeps from rivets. But that flange, good grief!
Anyway, I finally bit the bullet and sent the tank off the =9CWeep
no More=9D. Please do yourself a favor, and just skip to that
step. The tank will not leak when he is done. Nothing else short of
duplicating his method (good luck with that) will work as a permanent
solution. Go ahead and flame away, as I no longer have a dog in this
fight. My tank doesn=99t leak anymore. If you want to know how I
build my shipping box, send me an email.
Chris Hukill
RV10 sold
RV8, high and dry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexus and Plexall |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I think this is what Tim is referring to. The cleaner melts the leading edge bugs
off in seconds. It was $5/can (15oz) at Osh.
Lenny
Tim Olson wrote:
> There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well from Aviation
labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five dollars
a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south east hangar.
The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything else. It's worth
a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
> Tim
>
> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> > I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The current
price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37 Plexall
at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
> >
> > David McNeill
> >
> >
> > (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)
> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> > www.avast.com (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461357#461357
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0813_431.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Now bug cleaner, was Re: Plexus and Plexall |
Does this product have a name and/or source besides OSH exhibit?
-sent from the Note 7 burned in my forearm
On Sun, Oct 16, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Lenny Iszak
wrote:
>
> I think this is what Tim is referring to. The cleaner melts the leading
> edge bugs off in seconds. It was $5/can (15oz) at Osh.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
> > There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well from
> Aviation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five
> dollars a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south
> east hangar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything
> else. It's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
> > Tim
> >
> > On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The
> current price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37
> Plexall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
> > >
> > > David McNeill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)
> > > This email has been checked for viruses by
> Avast antivirus software.
> > > www.avast.com (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461357#461357
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0813_431.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Now bug cleaner, was Re: Plexus and Plexall |
Going out on a limb here...
http://www.avlab.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AVL%2DCV%2DPROMO
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 16, 2016, at 9:01 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Does this product have a name and/or source besides OSH exhibit?
>
> -sent from the Note 7 burned in my forearm
>
>> On Sun, Oct 16, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Lenny Iszak w
rote:
>>
>> I think this is what Tim is referring to. The cleaner melts the leading e
dge bugs off in seconds. It was $5/can (15oz) at Osh.
>>
>> Lenny
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>> > There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well fro
m Aviation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five d
ollars a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south eas
t hangar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything else
. It's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
>> > Tim
>> >
>> > On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > >
>> > > I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). Th
e current price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 3
7 Plexall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
>> > >
>> > > David McNeill
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
(https://www.avast.com/antivirus)
>> > > This email has been checked for viruses b
y Avast antivirus software.
>> > > www.avast.com (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461357#461357
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0813_431.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Now bug cleaner, was Re: Plexus and Plexall |
For bugs and general cleaning I use Wash Wax All. I do a quick wipe down of
the leading edges after every flight. It takes me about 10 minutes total.
My wife and I even washed the whole plane in the hanger in about an hour
with it.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/washwax.php
On Sun, Oct 16, 2016 at 11:10 PM, Phillip Perry
wrote:
> Going out on a limb here...
>
> http://www.avlab.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AVL%2DCV%2DPROMO
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 16, 2016, at 9:01 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Does this product have a name and/or source besides OSH exhibit?
>
> -sent from the Note 7 burned in my forearm
>
> On Sun, Oct 16, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Lenny Iszak
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I think this is what Tim is referring to. The cleaner melts the leading
>> edge bugs off in seconds. It was $5/can (15oz) at Osh.
>>
>> Lenny
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>> > There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well
>> from Aviation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about
>> five dollars a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the
>> south east hangar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and
>> everything else. It's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of
>> anything else.
>> > Tim
>> >
>> > On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > >
>> > > I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can).
>> The current price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I
>> found 37 Plexall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
>> > >
>> > > David McNeill
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)
>> > > This email has been checked for viruses
>> by Avast antivirus software.
>> > > www.avast.com (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461357#461357
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0813_431.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/
>> Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Now bug cleaner, was Re: Plexus and Plexall |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
That's the stuff.
At OSH you can buy it for $5/can and get the cans individually
so that if you need more of one than the other you can
have it.
I've really liked the stuff.
Tim
On 10/16/2016 11:10 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Going out on a limb here...
>
> http://www.avlab.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AVL%2DCV%2DPROMO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Transition Training |
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
I seem to be striking out on transition trainers. Anyone have leads on transition
trainers. I have tried Alex and David, both are not training right now and
was told Oregon was a bad place to fly over next few month by tech crew at Vans
and they did not know of any others that could train. Any thoughts or suggestions
or should I just shut down after airworthiness inspection for next several
months.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461407#461407
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Transition Training |
When I did my training with Alex in June he suggested I get recurrent training
with a pilot in San Francisco area, since I was a few month away from my first
flight. I ended up flying in November, no issues. If I was in your situation
I would find, as a minimum, a RV-10 near you that will allow you to fly with them
and get some stick time in return for gas and a burger, when Alex is free
again to do training get it, I assume you need it for insurance? I was lucky to
fly with a good friend in Texas before my training, 1 hour with him saved my
2 hours with Alex, actually I needed to beg Alex for another hour for insurance
we did max cross wind component landings in Midland and I have used that training
to land a few times already.. Its worth the training, but don't "shut
down after airworthiness" get in the mindset by flying.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mhealydds
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Transition Training
I seem to be striking out on transition trainers. Anyone have leads on transition
trainers. I have tried Alex and David, both are not training right now and
was told Oregon was a bad place to fly over next few month by tech crew at Vans
and they did not know of any others that could train. Any thoughts or suggestions
or should I just shut down after airworthiness inspection for next several
months.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461407#461407
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for Tips |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my old
LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several
areas.
First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how
messy it can be with any of them.
Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat deflectors
would be appreciated.
Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
Fire away!
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
Where are you located?
-----Original Message-----
From: mhealydds <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2016 6:47 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Transition Training
I seem to be striking out on transition trainers. Anyone have leads on transition
trainers. I have tried Alex and David, both are not training right now and
was told Oregon was a bad place to fly over next few month by tech crew at Vans
and they did not know of any others that could train. Any thoughts or suggestions
or should I just shut down after airworthiness inspection for next several
months.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461407#461407
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Tips |
I prefer the fuel transducer on the engine - much more accurate. I didn't
like the inaccuracy when the electric fuel pump is on. No opinion on the
rest...
On Tue, Oct 18, 2016 at 12:39 PM, johngoodman
wrote:
>
> I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from
> my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on
> several areas.
>
> First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
>
> Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to
> know how messy it can be with any of them.
>
> Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the
> heat deflectors would be appreciated.
>
> Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
>
> Fire away!
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Tips |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I'm not flying yet, but I'll give my reasons ......
On 10/18/2016 1:39 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my
old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several
areas.
>
> First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
Engine. Too many people have had fuel flow inaccuracies due to
turbulence caused by the boost pump.
> Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how
messy it can be with any of them.
I stayed with the standard oil filter since I didn't see a need to
change. I've been changing them a long time and don't make any messes.
> Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat
deflectors would be appreciated.
I have a problem with dumping the oil cooler air into the dead space in
the lower corner of the cowl. I have thought about a collector plenum
that dumps into the exit air, but the muffler mounting gets in the way.
The deflector would be a good idea .....
> Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
I modified my baffling and cowl to accept a Sam James plenum. I did not
make the baffling according to Sam James, but modified his plenum to fit
the Vans baffling. We'll see how well I did in the coming year.
> Fire away!
Bang!!!
Linn
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for Tips |
- Red cube. Both places work. The tunnel is easier but will reflect some
error when the boost pump is running. I have it in the tunnel and use the
boost pump for takeoff, landing and when shifting tanks. Total fuel used
is always within a half a gallon on fill up (400 hours on the plane).
- Standard oil filter. Put a cup under it when changing oil filters and you
don't lose a drop.
- I greatly prefer the standard push/pull throttle, vernier prop and vernier
mixture controls - and others prefer a quadrant. For cabin heat, oil cooler
butterfly valve and engine alt air I used these cables:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/a730.php For a smaller
footprint on the panel these work as well:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/buttondashctrl.php
- The stock oil cooler mount is, in my opinion, a poor design. The air
needs to first change direction by bounding off the firewall, then change
directions again when exiting the cooler. I mounted an AirFlow System 2006X
cooler horizontally on the firewall on the left side. It gets the standard
4" hose from the left side of the engine baffle via a 4" butterfly valve.
This cooler works well. I have never had an oil temp problem. The butterfly
valve is required however even on mild days to keep temps about 180.
- The stock cabin heat valves are horrible for blasting hot air back onto
the engine right where you have your mechanical fuel pump. I put a piece of
this stuff between the valves and the firewall (holes cut out for cabin air
flow) and draped the material over the top and front of the valves:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ap/insulation/koolmat.php This way on
your hot day when these valves are shut the heat muff air is deflected down
and away from the engine.
- For cabin heat cut one 2" hole in the rear baffle for a single hose, then
a Y to run the separate hoses to each heat muff. Even then you might find a
need to put a restrictor in line as you get a boatload of cabin heat. So
less air is fine for cabin heat and on a hot day you are stealing less air
from engine cooling.
- If using the standard cowl, then get the stock Van's baffle kit. I made
my own as I'm using a plenum.
- On first flight leave the air damn off the front of #1 and #2 cylinders.
Add them once you get some CHT data. Cut them down as needed to get the
right CHT balance.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2016 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Looking for Tips
-->
I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from
my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on
several areas.
First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know
how messy it can be with any of them.
Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat
deflectors would be appreciated.
Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
Fire away!
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Tips |
John,
I prefer the red cube on the engine. Here are a couple pictures of a
bracket I make for the red cube. It just mounts to the studs that secure
the servo. Made from steel similar to Van's other brackets.
I like the B&C 90* filter. If I have time, I punch a couple holes in the
top and then let it sit for a few hours. Then I can unscrew the filter and
it doesn't even drip.
We just replaced our baffles after about 1200 hours--long story but we went
from soft silicone baffles, which worked great, to some pretty expensive
material that was supposed to reduce vibration to the cowl since it's
teflon coated and theoretically not as "sticky". It was kind of hard to
work with compared to the silicone, and I don't notice any improvement in
smoothness.
--Dave
On Tue, Oct 18, 2016 at 10:39 AM, johngoodman
wrote:
>
> I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from
> my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on
> several areas.
>
> First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
>
> Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to
> know how messy it can be with any of them.
>
> Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the
> heat deflectors would be appreciated.
>
> Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
>
> Fire away!
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandra & Rick" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Tips |
John, Just completed my -10 in the last 9 months, 36 hrs TT, so to
paraphrase Stein my .02 worth.
Red cube under the front of the engine above the fuel servo. Easy to mount,
service, no issues etc and one less set of connections in the tight
inaccessible tunnel, and in the cabin where the smell of fuel is a bad
thing.
I have a 90 degree oil filter adapter so no opinion on the remote mount.
I had to re-buy 2 of the 3 engine control cables from MacFarlane due to
placement of my F/W penetrations and ease of routing. Highly recommend
mounting the engine and then measuring for the required lengths. Vans
cables don't appear to be as high a quality as the MacFarlane cables, but
just my opinion.
I bought an oversized oil cooler, Air Flow Systems 2007X model. I think it
is supposed to have 17% more cooling. I have no issues with oil temps.
My baffling is per the plans. Close off every little hole you can find.
>From the very first flight I have had no problems with CHT's and I have 9:1
compression so I probably make a little more HP.
Good luck.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: October 18, 2016 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Looking for Tips
-->
I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from
my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on
several areas.
First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know
how messy it can be with any of them.
Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat
deflectors would be appreciated.
Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
Fire away!
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | January Wx Advice |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
In early January I am thinking of flying from Alberta Canada (think Montana) to
Orlando Florida.
The north west weather I am familiar with (that's why I going to Florida). What
I am wondering about is the weather enroute. Typically is the weather that time
of year reasonable? Somewhere along Nebraska / Kansas / Arkansas / Alabama
/ Georgia etc.
Also, are there any short term hanger options that anyone can recommend near WDW
(Orlando)?
Cheers & and thanks for the advice.
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461435#461435
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: January Wx Advice |
Typical weather in FL is very nice unless a front is coming through. I could probably
tuck you in the hangar at X35 for a little while. How long are you thinking?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 18, 2016, at 6:50 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> In early January I am thinking of flying from Alberta Canada (think Montana)
to Orlando Florida.
>
> The north west weather I am familiar with (that's why I going to Florida). What
I am wondering about is the weather enroute. Typically is the weather that
time of year reasonable? Somewhere along Nebraska / Kansas / Arkansas / Alabama
/ Georgia etc.
>
> Also, are there any short term hanger options that anyone can recommend near
WDW (Orlando)?
>
> Cheers & and thanks for the advice.
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461435#461435
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: January Wx Advice |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
My advice is to follow a front down. Good tailwind and low humidity typically
produce some nice flying. I fly back and forth fro St. Louis to Ft. Myers typically
5 times over the winter. You can expect some marginal wx at some point
on your route that time of year.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461438#461438
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
Wichita KS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461439#461439
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
The CDA meeting is in may ,I am a two time rv-10 builder and cfii ,I would be willing
to help out a fellow dds-I can be reached at pilotdds(at)aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: mhealydds <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Oct 18, 2016 7:58 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transition Training
Wichita KS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461439#461439
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
Matt, I am a Wichita native and was there for almost two weeks this summer with
my airplane. We should talk.
David Maib
> On Oct 18, 2016, at 10:57 PM, mhealydds wrote:
>
>
> Wichita KS
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461439#461439
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
We recently did some avionics upgrades to add ADS-B functions and a few
other bells and whistles.
I installed a Garmin GTX345 and a Flightstream 210. The shop I bought it
from helped me configure the new goodies once it was fired up.
It works very well. We have ADS-B traffic and weather displayed on a 530.
The transponder and Flightstream each bluetooth to Foreflight so we have
the ADS-B products there as well.
One cool thing the Flightstream does is to transfer the flight plan back
and forth--change it on the 530 or the iPad and it's just a few clicks to
update the other. It's even relatively intuitive.
The wiring was a pain but now that it's done I'm glad we did the upgrade.
--Dave
Oh and I have a 327 for sale...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
What was the total cost of this upgrade?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 19, 2016, at 12:30 AM, David Saylor wrote:
>
> We recently did some avionics upgrades to add ADS-B functions and a few other
bells and whistles.
>
> I installed a Garmin GTX345 and a Flightstream 210. The shop I bought it from
helped me configure the new goodies once it was fired up.
>
> It works very well. We have ADS-B traffic and weather displayed on a 530. The
transponder and Flightstream each bluetooth to Foreflight so we have the ADS-B
products there as well.
>
> One cool thing the Flightstream does is to transfer the flight plan back and
forth--change it on the 530 or the iPad and it's just a few clicks to update the
other. It's even relatively intuitive.
>
> The wiring was a pain but now that it's done I'm glad we did the upgrade.
>
> --Dave
>
> Oh and I have a 327 for sale...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
Two things struck a remembrance for me. The control cables from Vans seem to
be of lower quality; I believe the cable cores are made of a material with a
lower melt point. When your engine is shutdown, the temperature under the
cowl rises very rapidly before cooling; the cores partially melt and become
"sticky" or difficult to move; one solution is opening the oil filler door
to allow air out. Secondly higher "melt point" cables are available from (1)
California Push Pull (2) Aircraft Spruce (special order with melt point
(Teflon) of 650 F). I have not tried McFarlane but they may also have Teflon
core.
Baffle sealing: the spark plug access hole for cylinders 5 & 6 needs to be
sealed with a small piece of aluminum tape each time access to the spark
plug is required. Curling a corner of the tape cover makes access easy for
the next time.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
Transition training can be accomplished, gratis, by a CFI who owns or has
built his 10; I have done several where a simple checkout flight (1-2 hours)
is required. The trick is to ask your/his insurance company to cover the
special flights. My insurance has approved these on a case by case basis. I
proposed a waiver to the feds but the response that "I could not sign a high
performance or complex endorsement for the trainee because the higher HP and
controllable propeller could be accomplished in a certified aircraft", was
not acceptable. Rather than respond emotionally I dropped the matter.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
About $5500 for the hardware (incl CA sales tax). I had about 40 hours in
labor. I had to mount a new transponder can and run a few wires to the
back of the 530. That was *almost* the worst part.
The worst part was I was anxious to test the whole thing out, so I went
flying and painted myself into the ADS-B landscape a week before the rebate
was finalized. That made me ineligible. Doh!
--Dave
On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 4:59 AM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
>
> What was the total cost of this upgrade?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 19, 2016, at 12:30 AM, David Saylor
> wrote:
> >
> > We recently did some avionics upgrades to add ADS-B functions and a few
> other bells and whistles.
> >
> > I installed a Garmin GTX345 and a Flightstream 210. The shop I bought it
> from helped me configure the new goodies once it was fired up.
> >
> > It works very well. We have ADS-B traffic and weather displayed on a
> 530. The transponder and Flightstream each bluetooth to Foreflight so we
> have the ADS-B products there as well.
> >
> > One cool thing the Flightstream does is to transfer the flight plan back
> and forth--change it on the 530 or the iPad and it's just a few clicks to
> update the other. It's even relatively intuitive.
> >
> > The wiring was a pain but now that it's done I'm glad we did the upgrade.
> >
> > --Dave
> >
> > Oh and I have a 327 for sale...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Actually when I was talking to California Push-Pull earlier
this year they said the difference is in the outer sheath
only. Maybe they mis-spoke at the time, but the core itself
is the same from what I understand. The outer sheath on
the black/grey ones is higher temp.
Tim
On 10/19/2016 8:09 AM, David wrote:
> Two things struck a remembrance for me. The control cables from Vans
> seem to be of lower quality; I believe the cable cores are made of a
> material with a lower melt point. When your engine is shutdown, the
> temperature under the cowl rises very rapidly before cooling; the cores
> partially melt and become sticky or difficult to move; one solution is
> opening the oil filler door to allow air out. Secondly higher melt
> point cables are available from (1) California Push Pull (2) Aircraft
> Spruce (special order with melt point (Teflon) of 650 F). I have not
> tried McFarlane but they may also have Teflon core.
>
>
> Baffle sealing: the spark plug access hole for cylinders 5 & 6 needs to
> be sealed with a small piece of aluminum tape each time access to the
> spark plug is required. Curling a corner of the tape cover makes access
> easy for the next time.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Avast logo
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Instead of ordering cables with 2" throw, order 2-1/8". I ended up making it work
with the 2" ones but a bit longer would have been perfect.
Also like Tim, i put a firesleeve over them, and wrapped them in a reflective aluminized
jacket. I don't care what they are made of, they are not going to melt
anymore. It's really nice to have smooth controls again.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461460#461460
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The standard baffle kit from Vans should have included some back to back washers,
nuts and bolts, to seal the access holes for the back two plugs.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461461#461461
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
FWIW I went with the NAVWORX ADS600-EXP, total cost of $1471 including the w
iring harness. To be honest I have very mixed feelings about their customer
service, more recently was much better. Installation took me about five hou
rs connecting to the GRT EFIS and Garmin 327.
My timing was valid for the FAA rebate, but the experimental version is not e
ligible at all, only genuine TSOd models count.
I just had my first cross country flight with it, and the traffic display
on my iPad was dead on. I switched to WingX pro because ForeFlight only wo
rks with the Garman products.
Marcus
> On Oct 19, 2016, at 9:18 AM, David Saylor wrote:
>
> About $5500 for the hardware (incl CA sales tax). I had about 40 hours in
labor. I had to mount a new transponder can and run a few wires to the bac
k of the 530. That was *almost* the worst part.
>
> The worst part was I was anxious to test the whole thing out, so I went fl
ying and painted myself into the ADS-B landscape a week before the rebate wa
s finalized. That made me ineligible. Doh!
>
> --Dave
>
>> On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 4:59 AM, Jesse Saint wr
ote:
>>
>> What was the total cost of this upgrade?
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Oct 19, 2016, at 12:30 AM, David Saylor wrot
e:
>> >
>> > We recently did some avionics upgrades to add ADS-B functions and a few
other bells and whistles.
>> >
>> > I installed a Garmin GTX345 and a Flightstream 210. The shop I bought i
t from helped me configure the new goodies once it was fired up.
>> >
>> > It works very well. We have ADS-B traffic and weather displayed on a 5
30. The transponder and Flightstream each bluetooth to Foreflight so we hav
e the ADS-B products there as well.
>> >
>> > One cool thing the Flightstream does is to transfer the flight plan bac
k and forth--change it on the 530 or the iPad and it's just a few clicks to u
pdate the other. It's even relatively intuitive.
>> >
>> > The wiring was a pain but now that it's done I'm glad we did the upgrad
e.
>> >
>> > --Dave
>> >
>> > Oh and I have a 327 for sale...
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The key word, as far as the FAA is concerned, is "gratis". Most of the FAR prohibitions
are "...may not, for compensation or hire,...". So as long as there is
no compensation for yourself or the airplane, you're okay with the FAA. Now,
dealing with your insurance company is another matter. Some will ammend your
coverage to allow instruction, on a case by case basis, as you have indicated.
But some will not. My current insurer will not. Mostly, they didn't want the
paperwork cost and hassle. And their rates reflect that cost savings.
The FAA will issue you a Letter of Deviation Authority (LODA), allowing you to
give instruction for hire in your EAB airplane. But it will be restricted to transition
training only. As you indicated, anything that can be done in a certified
aircraft (Flight Review, High Performance endorsements, etc) are explicitly
not allowed. Even though in the course of transition training you might accomplish
all tasks required for a Flight Review you may not sign it off. I agree
this is a harsh interpretation.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461463#461463
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
One piece of this interests me.
Bob, maybe you know the answer.
Suppose my daughter does her private training in my RV14 and RV10. She flies them
both with me now and can complete full flights without me touching anything.
What does an instructor do about the high performance sign off? Can they
sign you off in YOUR RV, even though its experimental? It would suck to have
to have her go fly a 182 that is a completely different animal just to get HP
signed off when she's all done. The RV14 is 210HP and the -10 you already know.
Tim
> On Oct 19, 2016, at 12:37 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> The key word, as far as the FAA is concerned, is "gratis". Most of the FAR prohibitions
are "...may not, for compensation or hire,...". So as long as there
is no compensation for yourself or the airplane, you're okay with the FAA. Now,
dealing with your insurance company is another matter. Some will ammend your
coverage to allow instruction, on a case by case basis, as you have indicated.
But some will not. My current insurer will not. Mostly, they didn't want the
paperwork cost and hassle. And their rates reflect that cost savings.
> The FAA will issue you a Letter of Deviation Authority (LODA), allowing you to
give instruction for hire in your EAB airplane. But it will be restricted to
transition training only. As you indicated, anything that can be done in a certified
aircraft (Flight Review, High Performance endorsements, etc) are explicitly
not allowed. Even though in the course of transition training you might
accomplish all tasks required for a Flight Review you may not sign it off. I agree
this is a harsh interpretation.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461463#461463
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com> |
The FAA will not let you utilize an experimental aircraft for hire.
There's no prohibition against doing any sort of training in any
experimental aircraft (including all signoffs), so as long as you're not
also offering the aircraft for hire. You can hire an instructor to fly in
your aircraft for any training, and an instructor can provide any sort of
training (including all signoffs) in his/her own aircraft as long as
(s)he's doing so without compensation.
Now, Insurance is a totally different question.
On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 12:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> One piece of this interests me.
> Bob, maybe you know the answer.
>
> Suppose my daughter does her private training in my RV14 and RV10. She
> flies them both with me now and can complete full flights without me
> touching anything. What does an instructor do about the high performance
> sign off? Can they sign you off in YOUR RV, even though its experimental?
> It would suck to have to have her go fly a 182 that is a completely
> different animal just to get HP signed off when she's all done. The RV14
> is 210HP and the -10 you already know.
> Tim
>
>
> > On Oct 19, 2016, at 12:37 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
> >
> >
> > The key word, as far as the FAA is concerned, is "gratis". Most of the
> FAR prohibitions are "...may not, for compensation or hire,...". So as long
> as there is no compensation for yourself or the airplane, you're okay with
> the FAA. Now, dealing with your insurance company is another matter. Some
> will ammend your coverage to allow instruction, on a case by case basis, as
> you have indicated. But some will not. My current insurer will not. Mostly,
> they didn't want the paperwork cost and hassle. And their rates reflect
> that cost savings.
> > The FAA will issue you a Letter of Deviation Authority (LODA), allowing
> you to give instruction for hire in your EAB airplane. But it will be
> restricted to transition training only. As you indicated, anything that can
> be done in a certified aircraft (Flight Review, High Performance
> endorsements, etc) are explicitly not allowed. Even though in the course of
> transition training you might accomplish all tasks required for a Flight
> Review you may not sign it off. I agree this is a harsh interpretation.
> >
> > --------
> > Bob Turner
> > RV-10 QB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461463#461463
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Agree with Bob Turner. My insurance company will not allow instruction on a case-by-case
basis, either. Buying a years worth of insurance for a handful of transition
training customers a year simply doesn't work financially. One minor
thing in Bob's post is the "no compensation for yourself or the airplane" statement.
I believe a CFI is allowed to accept compensation, as a CFI, just not
allowed to accept compensation for the airplane unless you have the LODA. I have
heard of CFI RV owners who simply charged a very high rate for their service
as a CFI, and included the use of the airplane at no charge. I imagine if there
was an accident or incident, the FAA might take a dim view of this, not to
mention your insurance company. Restrictions on providing anything other than
transition training, ie. Flight Review, Instrument Competency Check, High Performance
Endorsement, etc., are clearly not permitted in the LODA. Does not make
sense to me either, but that's the way it is.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461466#461466
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Coop,
Log into the ap with your iPad and set the port to 4000 and it will work wit
h ForeFlight.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 19, 2016, at 1:12 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> FWIW I went with the NAVWORX ADS600-EXP, total cost of $1471 including the
wiring harness. To be honest I have very mixed feelings about their custom
er service, more recently was much better. Installation took me about five h
ours connecting to the GRT EFIS and Garmin 327.
> My timing was valid for the FAA rebate, but the experimental version is no
t eligible at all, only genuine TSOd models count.
> I just had my first cross country flight with it, and the traffic displ
ay on my iPad was dead on. I switched to WingX pro because ForeFlight only w
orks with the Garman products.
>
> Marcus
>
>> On Oct 19, 2016, at 9:18 AM, David Saylor wrote:
>>
>> About $5500 for the hardware (incl CA sales tax). I had about 40 hours i
n labor. I had to mount a new transponder can and run a few wires to the ba
ck of the 530. That was *almost* the worst part.
>>
>> The worst part was I was anxious to test the whole thing out, so I went f
lying and painted myself into the ADS-B landscape a week before the rebate w
as finalized. That made me ineligible. Doh!
>>
>> --Dave
>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 4:59 AM, Jesse Saint w
rote:
>>>
>>> What was the total cost of this upgrade?
>>>
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>> C: 352-427-0285
>>> F: 815-377-3694
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Oct 19, 2016, at 12:30 AM, David Saylor wro
te:
>>> >
>>> > We recently did some avionics upgrades to add ADS-B functions and a fe
w other bells and whistles.
>>> >
>>> > I installed a Garmin GTX345 and a Flightstream 210. The shop I bought i
t from helped me configure the new goodies once it was fired up.
>>> >
>>> > It works very well. We have ADS-B traffic and weather displayed on a 5
30. The transponder and Flightstream each bluetooth to Foreflight so we hav
e the ADS-B products there as well.
>>> >
>>> > One cool thing the Flightstream does is to transfer the flight plan ba
ck and forth--change it on the 530 or the iPad and it's just a few clicks to
update the other. It's even relatively intuitive.
>>> >
>>> > The wiring was a pain but now that it's done I'm glad we did the upgra
de.
>>> >
>>> > --Dave
>>> >
>>> > Oh and I have a 327 for sale...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ========================
===========
>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List
>>> ========================
===========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ========================
===========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ========================
===========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
>>> ========================
===========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Tim Olson wrote:
> One piece of this interests me.
> Bob, maybe you know the answer.
>
> Suppose my daughter does her private training in my RV14 and RV10. She flies
them both with me now and can complete full flights without me touching anything.
What does an instructor do about the high performance sign off? Can they
sign you off in YOUR RV, even though its experimental? It would suck to have
to have her go fly a 182 that is a completely different animal just to get HP
signed off when she's all done. The RV14 is 210HP and the -10 you already know.
> Tim
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 19, 2016, at 12:37 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > The key word, as far as the FAA is concerned, is "gratis". Most of the FAR
prohibitions are "...may not, for compensation or hire,...". So as long as there
is no compensation for yourself or the airplane, you're okay with the FAA.
Now, dealing with your insurance company is another matter. Some will ammend
your coverage to allow instruction, on a case by case basis, as you have indicated.
But some will not. My current insurer will not. Mostly, they didn't want
the paperwork cost and hassle. And their rates reflect that cost savings.
> > The FAA will issue you a Letter of Deviation Authority (LODA), allowing you
to give instruction for hire in your EAB airplane. But it will be restricted
to transition training only. As you indicated, anything that can be done in a
certified aircraft (Flight Review, High Performance endorsements, etc) are explicitly
not allowed. Even though in the course of transition training you might
accomplish all tasks required for a Flight Review you may not sign it off.
I agree this is a harsh interpretation.
> >
> > --------
> > Bob Turner
> > RV-10 QB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461463#461463
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Tim, I checked in to finishing Mary's Private in our RV-10 a few years ago. It
was doable from an insurance perspective, but the cost was going to be huge. We
determined that it made more sense to get her finished in a 172, since she had
already soloed in one, and then transition her to the -10 once she had a license.
The high cost of insurance was based on having a student pilot solo the
RV-10. I am pretty sure if a CFI is giving primary instruction in a privately
owned RV-10, where there is no charge for the airplane involved, the CFI would
be free to put the endorsement for High Performance in the student pilots logbook.
The prohibition we have been talking about is only for holders of the LODA
that are providing transition training in their aircraft and charging for
the use of the aircraft.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461470#461470
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Dave - Yes, I should have made clear that I meant my reply to be to the previous
post, where the CFI provides the EAB airplane. FAR 91.319 is pretty clear -
but can always be argued, I guess - that EAB aircraft cannot be used for compensation
or hire. If a person is getting paid for flight instruction in an EAB
aircraft that he provided "for free", then the plane is in fact being used for
compensation - it's furthering his flight instruction business. The FAA, I'm
sure, takes a dim view of this sham. As would the insurance company.
But if someone else provides the airplane for no compensation - either because
he is an owner, or is a really good friend, or as in Tim, a parent who does not
charge his daughter- then there are no FAR restrictions on paying a cfi in that
airplane, nor on the type of instruction, sign-offs, etc.
Tim - As others have said, there are no restrictions on paying a cfi to give any
type of instruction in your airplane(s), assuming you do not charge your daughter
for its use. Note that when it comes to the private flight test, the FAA
allows its designated examiners to decline flying in EAB aircraft, at their option.
Some will, some won't.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461471#461471
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
That's what I was thinking as well, Berck.
If you are in YOUR airplane, you can hire an instructor to teach
you and to sign you off for anything. Because you are the
airplane owner. When the instructor or someone else owns
the airplane then things change a lot.
Regarding the insurance for training in the RV, the only
thing I see as a problem is that the instructors will
either have to meet the open pilot qualifications, or
be named insured. In my opinion I'd rather have them
named insured either way. This may require them to get
some time in the RV first. In my RV14, you'd be
required to have 25 hours in an RV, plus I think it was
500 hours total time. So I may have to fly with the
instructor for a few hours first to get them RV Time.
Tim
On 10/19/2016 1:20 PM, Berck E. Nash wrote:
> The FAA will not let you utilize an experimental aircraft for hire.
> There's no prohibition against doing any sort of training in any
> experimental aircraft (including all signoffs), so as long as you're not
> also offering the aircraft for hire. You can hire an instructor to fly
> in your aircraft for any training, and an instructor can provide any
> sort of training (including all signoffs) in his/her own aircraft as
> long as (s)he's doing so without compensation.
>
> Now, Insurance is a totally different question.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Thanks David,
Yeah, I originally built the RV-14 partially with the intent to have a
lower hull value plane to put my daughters on for training.
It sounds like I'll pay a higher premium for sure, but it doesn't
sound like it's going to add much for me anymore, considering
I just added Andrea on both planes this summer. They indicated
at the time that adding the daughter won't add much more additional
now. My biggest issue is probably going to be getting the
instructor enough RV time to meet the insurance requirements,
unless they allow me to cut it to 5 hours or something by
being named insured.
I'm glad that I no longer need transition training though,
considering the apparent market situation these days for it.
And I may as well add the reply to Bob's recent post
too....thanks Bob. Yeah, that's my final headache for
2018...finding a designated examiner who will do the
checkride in an EAB. I'll just have to find one that will
be willing. Worst case, the poor kid has to spend some time
in a 150. That would suck, given how much nicer these planes
are...and, she can fly it wonderfully now. 16 in May so
no solo until then...but by that time, she'll even be
doing her own aerobatics and spins.
Tim
>
> Tim, I checked in to finishing Mary's Private in our RV-10 a few
> years ago. It was doable from an insurance perspective, but the cost
> was going to be huge. We determined that it made more sense to get
> her finished in a 172, since she had already soloed in one, and then
> transition her to the -10 once she had a license. The high cost of
> insurance was based on having a student pilot solo the RV-10. I am
> pretty sure if a CFI is giving primary instruction in a privately
> owned RV-10, where there is no charge for the airplane involved, the
> CFI would be free to put the endorsement for High Performance in the
> student pilots logbook. The prohibition we have been talking about is
> only for holders of the LODA that are providing transition training
> in their aircraft and charging for the use of the aircraft.
>
> -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
My CFI rules knowledge are a little foggy here in the Mediterranean, but take a
look at the rules for complex sign off.
Doesnt say a word about certified or not.horsepower, prop and/or retract gear.
> On Oct 19, 2016, at 9:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> One piece of this interests me.
> Bob, maybe you know the answer.
>
> Suppose my daughter does her private training in my RV14 and RV10. She flies
them both with me now and can complete full flights without me touching anything.
What does an instructor do about the high performance sign off? Can they
sign you off in YOUR RV, even though its experimental? It would suck to have
to have her go fly a 182 that is a completely different animal just to get HP
signed off when she's all done. The RV14 is 210HP and the -10 you already know.
> Tim
>
>
>
>> On Oct 19, 2016, at 12:37 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>>
>> The key word, as far as the FAA is concerned, is "gratis". Most of the FAR prohibitions
are "...may not, for compensation or hire,...". So as long as there
is no compensation for yourself or the airplane, you're okay with the FAA. Now,
dealing with your insurance company is another matter. Some will ammend your
coverage to allow instruction, on a case by case basis, as you have indicated.
But some will not. My current insurer will not. Mostly, they didn't want the
paperwork cost and hassle. And their rates reflect that cost savings.
>> The FAA will issue you a Letter of Deviation Authority (LODA), allowing you
to give instruction for hire in your EAB airplane. But it will be restricted to
transition training only. As you indicated, anything that can be done in a certified
aircraft (Flight Review, High Performance endorsements, etc) are explicitly
not allowed. Even though in the course of transition training you might
accomplish all tasks required for a Flight Review you may not sign it off. I
agree this is a harsh interpretation.
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461463#461463
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Tim,
As David said, the real insurance cost is likely not to be for a cfi; it will be
to insure your daughter for solo flight.
BTW, no person with any assets to lose would, if in his right mind, fly under an
open pilot clause. He has no protection.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461475#461475
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Regarding that rebate, I read some info that was in one of the
weekly emails last week.
Turns out that the $500 rebate is taxable, and there are all
sorts of strings attached...including a fairly specific
flight test that you have to do, where you fly a specific
flight profile in specific type of airspace. The tax
you pay on the rebate cuts its value quite a bit...but then
if you're forced to fly that specific flight profile for
testing, that will cost you time and fuel as well.
So the value of the rebate is at best, half of the $500
that they give you. For that little bit of money I really
don't think the hassle of even dealing with the FAA is worth
it. Your cost of $1471 wasn't too bad. I paid more by
being an early adopter.
The guts of your -EXP model aren't any different than the
TSO'd model either, so you'll be in good shape.
Oh, and regarding WingX....
I agree with Bob. I find it great to use in the cockpit.
Yes, I do like Foreflight for filing the plans and preflight
weather planning, but after that I'm very happy with WingX.
And just because I'm a bit nuts, I have:
A Foreflight Subscription
A 3-year WingX subscription
1 lifetime FlyQ subscription
An 18-moth Aerovie subscription
One thing people don't talk about much is the subscription
model. I have 2 pilots now and soon enough to be 3 in my
family. Foreflight limits you to 1 iphone, 1 ipad, and 1
backup ipad. This sucks totally...I can't even have
my own wife and I both have foreflight on our iphone. Yes,
they would charge me another $75-100 for a subscription for
her, and then for my Daughter too. It's a royal screwjob
for families like me.
With WingX, FlyQ, and Aerovie, my subscription covers
all of the devices on my family's iTunes account, so we
can all have the apps. FlyQ doesn't have an EFB for the
iphone but they have a mush less nice companion app.
Aerovie and WingX both work on both platforms, including
with my iLevil 3 AW AHRS.
Aerovie is my hopeful app for the future for preflight weather
briefing. It has some weather planning features that the
others don't have, including skewTlog charts and
overlay prog charts. Seems to be very nice. If they refine
the app a bit, I won't subscribe to foreflight again
at all.
But of all of those, right now, WingX would be the hardest
for me to let go of.
Tim
On 10/19/2016 12:12 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> FWIW I went with the NAVWORX ADS600-EXP, total cost of $1471 including
> the wiring harness. To be honest I have very mixed feelings about their
> customer service, more recently was much better. Installation took me
> about five hours connecting to the GRT EFIS and Garmin 327.
> My timing was valid for the FAA rebate, but the experimental version is
> not eligible at all, only genuine TSOd models count.
> I just had my first cross country flight with it, and the traffic
> display on my iPad was dead on. I switched to WingX pro because
> ForeFlight only works with the Garman products.
>
> Marcus
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
gengrumpy wrote:
> My CFI rules knowledge are a little foggy here in the Mediterranean, but take
a look at the rules for complex sign off.
>
> Doesnt say a word about certified or not.horsepower, prop and/or retract gear.
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
The thread became 'mixed topics'. The issue was that cfi's instructing in their
own planes, for compensation under an FAA issued LODA, are not allowed to do
these sign offs. If instructing for hire in the 'student's' airplane there are
no issues.
BTW, "complex" = CS prop, flaps, retractable landing gear. Does not apply to RVs.
"high performance" = over 200 HP. Does apply to RV-10 and -14.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461479#461479
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
You can't get a better overall summary than that, but keep in mind that not everybody
needs as many devices as Tim's family. I use the Foreflight Logbook now
since LogTen went to subscription-based. All of my eggs are in the Foreflight
basket, and I am very happy with it all around for preflight and inflight.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 19, 2016, at 4:08 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Regarding that rebate, I read some info that was in one of the
> weekly emails last week.
>
> Turns out that the $500 rebate is taxable, and there are all
> sorts of strings attached...including a fairly specific
> flight test that you have to do, where you fly a specific
> flight profile in specific type of airspace. The tax
> you pay on the rebate cuts its value quite a bit...but then
> if you're forced to fly that specific flight profile for
> testing, that will cost you time and fuel as well.
> So the value of the rebate is at best, half of the $500
> that they give you. For that little bit of money I really
> don't think the hassle of even dealing with the FAA is worth
> it. Your cost of $1471 wasn't too bad. I paid more by
> being an early adopter.
>
> The guts of your -EXP model aren't any different than the
> TSO'd model either, so you'll be in good shape.
>
>
> Oh, and regarding WingX....
>
> I agree with Bob. I find it great to use in the cockpit.
> Yes, I do like Foreflight for filing the plans and preflight
> weather planning, but after that I'm very happy with WingX.
>
> And just because I'm a bit nuts, I have:
>
> A Foreflight Subscription
> A 3-year WingX subscription
> 1 lifetime FlyQ subscription
> An 18-moth Aerovie subscription
>
> One thing people don't talk about much is the subscription
> model. I have 2 pilots now and soon enough to be 3 in my
> family. Foreflight limits you to 1 iphone, 1 ipad, and 1
> backup ipad. This sucks totally...I can't even have
> my own wife and I both have foreflight on our iphone. Yes,
> they would charge me another $75-100 for a subscription for
> her, and then for my Daughter too. It's a royal screwjob
> for families like me.
>
> With WingX, FlyQ, and Aerovie, my subscription covers
> all of the devices on my family's iTunes account, so we
> can all have the apps. FlyQ doesn't have an EFB for the
> iphone but they have a mush less nice companion app.
> Aerovie and WingX both work on both platforms, including
> with my iLevil 3 AW AHRS.
>
> Aerovie is my hopeful app for the future for preflight weather
> briefing. It has some weather planning features that the
> others don't have, including skewTlog charts and
> overlay prog charts. Seems to be very nice. If they refine
> the app a bit, I won't subscribe to foreflight again
> at all.
>
> But of all of those, right now, WingX would be the hardest
> for me to let go of.
>
> Tim
>
>
>> On 10/19/2016 12:12 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>> FWIW I went with the NAVWORX ADS600-EXP, total cost of $1471 including
>> the wiring harness. To be honest I have very mixed feelings about their
>> customer service, more recently was much better. Installation took me
>> about five hours connecting to the GRT EFIS and Garmin 327.
>> My timing was valid for the FAA rebate, but the experimental version is
>> not eligible at all, only genuine TSOd models count.
>> I just had my first cross country flight with it, and the traffic
>> display on my iPad was dead on. I switched to WingX pro because
>> ForeFlight only works with the Garman products.
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
So just yesterday I started paying for my $1100 ADSB plan. Of course, I didn't
count any equipment I already own!! I will report in due time on the outcome.
Equipment already owned: GRT HX, Garmin 420W, Garmin GTX-327 transponder, Skyradar
D2 ADSB in.
Upgrades:
GRT HX software - free
Garmin 420W firmware - $100
Trig TT22 remote mode S-ES transponder with RS232to 422 adaptor - $2200
Gains:
$500 from FAA
sell 327 for about $700.
Net cost: $1100.
To be honest I lucked into the FAA rebate. I would have done this earlier but wanted
to wait until my transponder certification was nearly due anyway, to avoid
that extra cost.
Yes, I will need to go fly the FAA's 'profile', and it appears that must be done
in ADSB required airspace, so that means above 10,000' for me. But, in my acounting
scheme, flying is free!
As to the tax status of the $500, I believe this is a cya from the FAA. Certainly
Ford gives out tax free rebates all the time, although not from public funds.
Besides, I'm not in a high enough tax bracket to worry about it. And-part of
my strangeness-I derive some pleasure arguing with the IRS.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461481#461481
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I'm getting old, so bear with me .....
I thought there were a limited number of rebates and that they were
going to pick the winners from the pool of applicants. I'm sure y'all
will let me know if I'm wrong ..... ;-)
Linn
On 10/19/2016 4:45 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> So just yesterday I started paying for my $1100 ADSB plan. Of course, I didn't
count any equipment I already own!! I will report in due time on the outcome.
> Equipment already owned: GRT HX, Garmin 420W, Garmin GTX-327 transponder, Skyradar
D2 ADSB in.
> Upgrades:
> GRT HX software - free
> Garmin 420W firmware - $100
> Trig TT22 remote mode S-ES transponder with RS232to 422 adaptor - $2200
>
> Gains:
> $500 from FAA
> sell 327 for about $700.
>
> Net cost: $1100.
>
> To be honest I lucked into the FAA rebate. I would have done this earlier but
wanted to wait until my transponder certification was nearly due anyway, to avoid
that extra cost.
>
> Yes, I will need to go fly the FAA's 'profile', and it appears that must be done
in ADSB required airspace, so that means above 10,000' for me. But, in my
acounting scheme, flying is free!
>
> As to the tax status of the $500, I believe this is a cya from the FAA. Certainly
Ford gives out tax free rebates all the time, although not from public funds.
Besides, I'm not in a high enough tax bracket to worry about it. And-part
of my strangeness-I derive some pleasure arguing with the IRS.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461481#461481
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
> I'm getting old, so bear with me .....
> I thought there were a limited number of rebates and that they were
> going to pick the winners from the pool of applicants. I'm sure y'all
> will let me know if I'm wrong ..... ;-)
> Linn
>
> On 10/19/2016 4:45 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > So
> > GRT HX software - free
> > G
> >
>
There is no lottery. The money goes to the first people to apply. Rules:
You must not already have purchased the equipment.
You apply for the rebate first. The FAA gives you a number. Then you buy, install,
and flight test the equipment within a specified period of time, not to exceed
3 months, I think. The equipment you buy has to be on the 'approved' list
(non-TSO equipment is excluded). If you pass the test within the specified time
period, then you finish filling out the FAA paperwork, and they should send
you a check.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461483#461483
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Cheap Led light alternative. |
I saw a thread on Vansairforce about landing lights and I committed to give
a more detailed review and pictures on this forum. So Here it is.
In short my planelights HID bulb broke and I needed to replace it. Couldn't
find a bulb and when I did it was way too expensive. I considered a commer
cial LED solution, but that too is ridiculous for pricing, In the end I dec
ided to build an LED alternative and it runs about $40
I took some pictures in the middle of the (bright) day- I realize its not r
eal testing in darkness but this is to give an idea of light potential unti
l I have a chance to take night pictures.
The actual install is a Cree XHP35 350Ma LED 3X star with a MeanWell LDH-4
5A-350W, 350Ma driver.
I landed the other day in Northern California at an airport campground alth
ough I didn't take a picture, as you can see (in my 10 foot distance to han
gar door on a bright day!) the HID is more focused beam versus the LED but
the LED puts out a good amount of light 125 degree with about 1800 or maybe
more Lumens. The effect was like a bright flashlight on the side of the LE
D probably a good 20-30 feet ahead is completely covered in white light (th
is is easily adjusted with a cheap lens that would make the flood into a sp
ot light). The mount was literally built from scratch, aluminum piece shap
ed to HID mount and three new nut-plates riveted on- the angle needs to be
created to beam the light more upfront versus the 45 degrees off the wingti
p that naturally occurs. If one used the original bracket and put a flat pi
ece on the rear mount (the one that held the bulb) it would work just fine.
I wanted the light right on the hole to avoid the light spreading all over
the wingtip as it used to do with HID.
I think if one wanted to make this easy, it could be all done in a few hour
s from start to finish. Power and LED connections; rivet on a plate to curr
ent HID bracket and connect- but to do this right, time should be spent mak
ing the bracket flush and as forward facing as possible- and that does take
a while to do.
I plan to eventually get an optic to bring the beam more to 70 degrees, but
truthfully it works really well "as is" and actually take a picture on my
next night flight to give a "real world" picture of this solution.
When my other HID goes out I'll do this project again.
By the way this setup has no RFI/EMI in my radios. (Meanwell driver has bui
lt in EMI filter) I also have a LUXdrive but that is not a good solution at
all. Although I worked with their tech support they admitted that RFI nois
e from their drivers was a known issue, they have a snubber built-in but th
at is not for RFI apparently.. They had no solution for resolution either.
Pascal
No light test area with bright day outside
[cid:1731B1EA-CA1C-4059-8C8B-B70E1043653F]
Planelights HID
[cid:9A0D34D6-E4A1-4792-BDFE-B6743065E03C]
DIY LED Taxi light
[cid:2C1454F1-8425-4DBE-912F-7FC74C510F40]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Comcast <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Tips |
Red cube: I moved mine from tunnel to engine. I like the more accurate date f
rom the engine side location.
Both the red cube installation manual and APS recommend suspending the red c
ube in a fuel line between servo and spider, not attached directly to crank c
ase. I did that, wrapping cube in fire sleeve. It works well.
Direct mounting to engine was advised against, although many folks seem to t
ake that route with good results.
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 18, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Kevin Belue wrote:
>
> I prefer the fuel transducer on the engine - much more accurate. I didn't l
ike the inaccuracy when the electric fuel pump is on. No opinion on the rest
...
>
>> On Tue, Oct 18, 2016 at 12:39 PM, johngoodman
wrote:
>
>>
>> I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it fro
m my old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on
several areas.
>>
>> First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
>>
>> Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to kn
ow how messy it can be with any of them.
>>
>> Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the h
eat deflectors would be appreciated.
>>
>> Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
>>
>> Fire away!
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461420#461420
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank" rel="noreferrer">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> lank" rel="noreferrer">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: January Wx Advice |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Jessie
I'll be in FLA for 2-3 weeks and plan to do a bit of flying. I'd like to be close
to Orlando but I do appreciate the offer though. Perhaps I'll get to drop
by.
Cheers
Les
jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote:
> Typical weather in FL is very nice unless a front is coming through. I could
probably tuck you in the hangar at X35 for a little while. How long are you thinking?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> > On Oct 18, 2016, at 6:50 PM, kearney wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > In early January I am thinking of flying from Alberta Canada (think Montana)
to Orlando Florida.
> >
> > The north west weather I am familiar with (that's why I going to Florida).
What I am wondering about is the weather enroute. Typically is the weather that
time of year reasonable? Somewhere along Nebraska / Kansas / Arkansas / Alabama
/ Georgia etc.
> >
> > Also, are there any short term hanger options that anyone can recommend near
WDW (Orlando)?
> >
> > Cheers & and thanks for the advice.
> >
> > Les
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461435#461435
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461498#461498
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hmmm
Just for giggles I thought I'd comment on the high performance / complex rules
in Canada. In Canada it is wing loading that determines whether or not the a/c
is high performance. Although I did transition training with David Maib a while
back, I didn't need the HP sign off for Canada.
Interesting.
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461499#461499
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Tim,
Ever consider getting your com/cfi? You'd have to rent an RG for some of it, but,
given your daughter needs 20 hrs dual, the net cost might not be that great.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461500#461500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I actually am entertaining that thought right now. Curious as to how quick I could
make it happen. If I could be done by the end of the year or for sure by
spring it may just work. Could save me a lot of headaches too. The kid flies
real well. Would love to help her get it done.
Tim
> On Oct 20, 2016, at 11:47 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> Tim,
> Ever consider getting your com/cfi? You'd have to rent an RG for some of it,
but, given your daughter needs 20 hrs dual, the net cost might not be that great.
> Bob
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461500#461500
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
There's been a notice of proposed rule making that, if accepted, would likely get
rid of the requirement for the retract. An aircraft with a PFD and MFD would
qualify as complex.
Don't know the timeline of when t would be accepted, but most of our fleet would
qualify.
Anyone know when a decision is expected?
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 20, 2016, at 11:59 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I actually am entertaining that thought right now. Curious as to how quick I
could make it happen. If I could be done by the end of the year or for sure by
spring it may just work. Could save me a lot of headaches too. The kid flies
real well. Would love to help her get it done.
>
> Tim
>
>> On Oct 20, 2016, at 11:47 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>>
>> Tim,
>> Ever consider getting your com/cfi? You'd have to rent an RG for some of it,
but, given your daughter needs 20 hrs dual, the net cost might not be that great.
>> Bob
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461500#461500
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Tips |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
More of the same....
On 10/18/2016 1:39 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> I have recently gotten partners in my RV-10, and we are converting it from my
old LS1 engine, to a new IO-540 from Van. I'd like to get some input on several
areas.
>
> First, The Red Cube - Tunnel or on the engine?
I don't have the Red Cube but rather the GRT(?) transducer. First had
it mounted in tunnel and experienced the inaccuracies when the pump was
run. Mounted it engine compartment - very accurate. Don't put it in
the tunnel.
> Next, Remote Oil Filter - AirWolf, B&C, or the standard? Would like to know how
messy it can be with any of them.
I went with the stock mounting - no problem. Easy to mount and remove -
only challenge is dripping during removal. I have a plastic angle
(roughly 2"x2"x4') that I stick under the filter during removal. Drips
right into waste container. Many simple solutions to drip problem.
> Cables or Actuators - Any comments on these for the Oil Cooler, and the heat
deflectors would be appreciated.
The stock cables melt and are slightly too short for quadrant. I
replace them with longer ones from California Cable - recommend them and
their product highly. Very fast turn around on well priced custom cables.
> Tips on what not to do on baffling also appreciated.
Silicon baffling material is great stuff in all respects.
I used stock oil cooler. I occasionally had problems with oil being
over cooled in NC winters. Running less oil (7 quarts at change - add
to maintain at least 6) and adding a small fixed baffle fixed it. Never
any problems with overheating oil. I have never calibrated my oil temp
sensor.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Hadn't seen that. You currently can get a two fer or a three fer if you go
for a single engine sea with a plane that has retractable water rudders,
and possibly over 200 hp. Yes, being able to retract water rudders does
qualify for complex if the plane has constant speed and flaps. A C180 on
floats could meet all three needs. The rating would also substitute for
flight review, complex and hp endorsements.
When I got my commercial there was the requirement for complex, but no HP
endorsement existed, so flight schools mostly had Arrows, Cardinal RGs, a
few Mooneys. Now a 182RG would let one get HP, complex at same time.
Personally, I think allowing glass panel to substitute for complex misses
the point. There is nothing about viewing a glass panel that adds any
skill. Where would they draw the line? There is a huge difference between a
G1000 aircraft (complex only in Garmin's menu structure) and a Grand Rapids
or Dynon glass panel. Would 2 screens be required, or just one that you can
split? Consider the Dynon Skyview or AFS units that allow display of six
pack or EFIS at any time. Does IFR certification of the GPS make the plane
complex or the ability to input a flight plan? Is IFR even considered as
part of the proposal?
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Fri, Oct 21, 2016 at 4:31 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> There's been a notice of proposed rule making that, if accepted, would
> likely get rid of the requirement for the retract. An aircraft with a PFD
> and MFD would qualify as complex.
>
> Don't know the timeline of when t would be accepted, but most of our fleet
> would qualify.
>
> Anyone know when a decision is expected?
>
> Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 20, 2016, at 11:59 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I actually am entertaining that thought right now. Curious as to how
> quick I could make it happen. If I could be done by the end of the year or
> for sure by spring it may just work. Could save me a lot of headaches
> too. The kid flies real well. Would love to help her get it done.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >> On Oct 20, 2016, at 11:47 PM, Bob Turner
> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Tim,
> >> Ever consider getting your com/cfi? You'd have to rent an RG for some
> of it, but, given your daughter needs 20 hrs dual, the net cost might not
> be that great.
> >> Bob
> >>
> >> --------
> >> Bob Turner
> >> RV-10 QB
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461500#461500
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Kelly, I think there's a little confusion in your post. HP and complex are endorsements
given by a cfi. If going for a new rating, e.g. single engine sea, you
are expected to show up for the flight test already having the endorsement (if
required).
I too am from the old days. But you have it backwards. 20 years ago there was no
complex endorsement, only a high performance one. The latter applied to both
over 200 HP and/or RG aircraft. You only needed one endorsement. So I got endorsed
flying a 182, and was then go to go in an RG. Around 1995 when the rules
changed, I was grandfathered in, so I have never gotten a complex endorsement
although I may fly RG aircraft.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461507#461507
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
Here's the article on the NPRM..
https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2016/may/12/proposed-part-61-ch
anges-would-benefit-ga
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 21, 2016, at 10:30 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> Kelly, I think there's a little confusion in your post. HP and complex are
endorsements given by a cfi. If going for a new rating, e.g. single engine s
ea, you are expected to show up for the flight test already having the endor
sement (if required).
> I too am from the old days. But you have it backwards. 20 years ago there w
as no complex endorsement, only a high performance one. The latter applied t
o both over 200 HP and/or RG aircraft. You only needed one endorsement. So I
got endorsed flying a 182, and was then go to go in an RG. Around 1995 when
the rules changed, I was grandfathered in, so I have never gotten a complex
endorsement although I may fly RG aircraft.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461507#461507
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com> |
Here's the actual NPRM:
https://www.regulations.gov/document?D=FAA-2016-6142-0001
The part of the proposal regarding complex aircraft is to allow the 10
hours of "complex time" currently required of commercial pilot applicants
to be acquired, instead, in a TAA (glass cockpit). If implemented as
proposed, it would change nothing about the endorsements required to fly
complex or high performance aircraft, just to those to get a commercial
certificate. The idea is that if you're training to become a commercial
pilot, time in a 1970's 172RG is probably not as beneficial as time in a
modern aircraft. I suspect a big part of the motivation is the fact that
so many modern, high performance aircraft are now fixed gear, and
maintaining a fleet of 172 RGs (what most flight schools use for "complex"
training) is a bit of a silly burden.
I think it's all a bit silly. Little of the training I did to acquire my
ratings and little of the thousands of hours I spent flying around as an
instructor in a single engine aircraft did much to prepare me to fly jets
for the airlines. The fact that I'd spent a few dozen hours in an airplane
that required me to flip the gear lever after takeoff and before landing
certainly didn't do much to prepare me. And, yes, it might have been nice
to have seen a glass cockpit at some point in my career before the CRJ
simulator, but learning to read the glass was easy. Learning to think at 10
miles per minute was the hard part, but fortunately, the airlines (with
serious FAA oversight) did a pretty good job of preparing me for that.
On Fri, Oct 21, 2016 at 11:13 AM, Phillip Perry
wrote:
> Here's the article on the NPRM..
>
> https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2016/may/12/
> proposed-part-61-changes-would-benefit-ga
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 21, 2016, at 10:30 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> Kelly, I think there's a little confusion in your post. HP and complex are
> endorsements given by a cfi. If going for a new rating, e.g. single engine
> sea, you are expected to show up for the flight test already having the
> endorsement (if required).
> I too am from the old days. But you have it backwards. 20 years ago there
> was no complex endorsement, only a high performance one. The latter applied
> to both over 200 HP and/or RG aircraft. You only needed one endorsement. So
> I got endorsed flying a 182, and was then go to go in an RG. Around 1995
> when the rules changed, I was grandfathered in, so I have never gotten a
> complex endorsement although I may fly RG aircraft.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461507#461507
>
>
> http://forums.matronics.comhttp://wiki.matronics.com==========================; -
> List Contribution Wnbsp; -Matt Dralle, List
> Admin.<========================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I don't recall, but I don't think there was a high performance endorsement
at the time I did my commercial, which required 10 hours of "complex" time.
I think originally 180 hp was sufficient, as both Arrows and Mooneys came
that way. Later I think 200 hp was required. It was NOT over 200 hp. When I
got my private I could step right from C150 to C207, PA-32 or DHC 2 or DHC3
with no endorsement. (Beaver or Otter) that were tailwheel and 450 hp or
~600? hp. Insurance and common sense were the only restrictions. I was
signed off, not as a formal endorsement for complex, never for tailwhell,
HP etc. Grandfathered for all of that. Have flown PA-23 with pair of C4B5
250 hp engines and Mooney 231 with TSIO-360 (210 hp). Commercial and
multi-engine rating in a 150 HP Apache or 160 hp Twin Comanche was enough
to make you legally eligible to fly right seat in Part 121 airliner at that
time.
Kelly (don't need no stinkin endorsement)
Yes I know you need sign-off for checkride. Checkride gets you flight
review and the training in right aircraft gets you HP and complex
endorsements, all without having any wheels, much less ones that retract.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Fri, Oct 21, 2016 at 8:30 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Kelly, I think there's a little confusion in your post. HP and complex are
> endorsements given by a cfi. If going for a new rating, e.g. single engine
> sea, you are expected to show up for the flight test already having the
> endorsement (if required).
> I too am from the old days. But you have it backwards. 20 years ago there
> was no complex endorsement, only a high performance one. The latter applied
> to both over 200 HP and/or RG aircraft. You only needed one endorsement. So
> I got endorsed flying a 182, and was then go to go in an RG. Around 1995
> when the rules changed, I was grandfathered in, so I have never gotten a
> complex endorsement although I may fly RG aircraft.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461507#461507
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
It seems to me that an EFIS could easily be tied to a switch, and read "gear up"
or "gear down", depending on the 'gear switch'. And if you landed "gear up"
the EFIS could put out horrible scrapping sounds. Close enough to the real thing?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461514#461514
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Strutting my stufff - or doors |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I have been reading past threads regarding higher strength door struts. With the
weight of my doors, they do auto close more than is desirable.
Till now I have been using stock Vans struts which fit quite well - they bottom
out before the hinges are fully open. So what I need are drop in replacement
struts that are about the same length or slightly shorter than stock.
Will the A1A1F50-100-286-600N struts meet this requirement? My read of the threads
is that they will but I'd like to make sure before I order them.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461551#461551
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strutting my stufff - or doors |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Les and fellow builders, especially the Australian ones!
My upholsterer put me onto a local supplier of gas struts (strutspecialists.com.au)
based out of Perth in Western. Australia (Tel: +61 8 9445 9119) of all places
and I was able to source two identical gas struts to the ones Vans supplies,
but these ones are rated at 700N, for a very kind price of AU$38.00 for the
pair (equates to about US$28.00).
For those enquiring minds, my doors are upholstered and a tad heavier than the
norm, thus the 700N.
I hope that this helps guys
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 24 Oct 2016, at 08:06, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I have been reading past threads regarding higher strength door struts. With
the weight of my doors, they do auto close more than is desirable.
>
> Till now I have been using stock Vans struts which fit quite well - they bottom
out before the hinges are fully open. So what I need are drop in replacement
struts that are about the same length or slightly shorter than stock.
>
> Will the A1A1F50-100-286-600N struts meet this requirement? My read of the threads
is that they will but I'd like to make sure before I order them.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461551#461551
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PCU5000 Prop Gov recall |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
According to my propeller shop the makers of the PCU5000 prop governors just issued
a service letter for replacement of their balance weight assemblies exactly
the same as MT.
AT 2016-1
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461607#461607
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PCU5000 Prop Gov recall |
Myron, anybody know where we can access this service bulliten/letter?
Deems
On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 9:14 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> According to my propeller shop the makers of the PCU5000 prop governors
> just issued a service letter for replacement of their balance weight
> assemblies exactly the same as MT.
>
> AT 2016-1
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Flew May 10 2014
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461607#461607
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PCU5000 Prop Gov recall |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Vic just posted it on VAF
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461610#461610
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PCU5000 Prop Gov recall |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
While on a tour of the MT facility in Deland FL., I mentioned the prop
gov problem. Office Manager Sarah said just call when you have
questions. They also take care of the mod in their shop. Phone: (386)
736 7762
Linn
On 10/25/2016 1:22 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> Myron, anybody know where we can access this service bulliten/letter?
>
> Deems
>
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 9:14 AM, woxofswa > wrote:
>
> >
>
> According to my propeller shop the makers of the PCU5000 prop
> governors just issued a service letter for replacement of their
> balance weight assemblies exactly the same as MT.
>
> AT 2016-1
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Flew May 10 2014
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461607#461607
> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461607#461607>
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P Reid <rv10flyer(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | PCU5000 Prop Gov recall |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PCU5000 Prop Gov recall |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Aero Technologies, LLC
SERVICE LETTER AT2016-1
October 20, 2016
SUBJECT: Flyweight design change.
MODEL AFFECTED: All PCU5000 and PCU5000X
SERVICE MANUAL AFFECTED: Maintenance/Overhaul Manual AT1431299 Rev. 2
This service information is to be added to the appropriate Aero Technologies Maintenance
Manual until the next manual revision is released.
NEW FLYWEIGHT DESIGN TO REPLACE CURRENT DESIGN REQUIREMENTS
1) Current Flyweight assembly part number AT1438426 is still able to be overhauled
until the supply of Safety Spring part number AT1430591 is exhausted.
2) New Flyweight Assembly part number AT1438504 (drawing page 2).
a) AT1430685, Flyweight head
b) AT1430522, Flyweight (requires 2)
c) AT4420170, Needle (requires 2)
d) AT4402020, pin (requires 4)
AT1438504 is a direct replacement for the AT1438426 Flyweight assembly and does
not change fit, form, or function of the PCU5000 governor.
APPROVAL: FAA approval has been obtained on technical data in this publication
that affects product type design.
To obtain satisfactory results, procedures specified in this service information
must be accomplished in accordance with accepted methods and prevailing government
regulations. Aero Technologies cannot be responsible for the quality of
work performed in accomplishing this service information.
Aero Technologies, LLC
595 Telser Road
Lake Zurich, IL 60047
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461617#461617
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PCU5000 Prop Gov recall |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
The way I read it, it's just for overhaul shops working on PCU5000s, if they get
one. It's not a recall.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461633#461633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PCU5000 Prop Gov recall |
MT governors were not a recall either, just a service bulletin with some
misleading information as to what governors needed upgrade.
BTW my MT governor is noticeably more responsive and a little more
sensitive since the upgrade, as the new flyweights are a little heavier.
Kelly
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Wed, Oct 26, 2016 at 7:03 AM, johngoodman
wrote:
>
> The way I read it, it's just for overhaul shops working on PCU5000s, if
> they get one. It's not a recall.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461633#461633
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PCU500/x Service Letter |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I just spoke to Aerotechnical about this service letter. Here are the facts as
given to me:
1. The MT prop flyweights and PCU500O flyweights are made by different manufacturers
2. This service letter has been in the works for a year - it is not the result
of technical issues
3. The service letter is a result of the company standardizing parts between their
turbine and reciprocating engine design / parts.
4. This does not affect the PCU overhaul requirements (7 years TIS or TBO whichever
occurs first).
I suggested that they post a note on VAF as peiople seem to be inferring that this
letter is related to the MT recall (which it is not).
In short, nothing to see here....
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461641#461641
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List 2016 Fund Raiser During |
November!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
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Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
We are getting ready to hang our engine, and I'm wondering about the control cable
pass throughs on the plans for the F1007K Recess. They seem to be off to the
side, because it would otherwise hit something.
You folks that have already completed one, what's the story - can another pass
through be located on the recess, and where? Any caveats? We are not doing anything
funky, such as relocating the IO-540 oil filter.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461991#461991
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
I've never tried a different location. Part of the issue is the length of the cables
and how they attach to the bracket that goes between the fuel servo and
the engine sump. If you locate them differently, you need to make sure your lengths
will work fine and that the cables can enter the bracket at the correct
angle.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 3, 2016, at 7:30 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>
> We are getting ready to hang our engine, and I'm wondering about the control
cable pass throughs on the plans for the F1007K Recess. They seem to be off to
the side, because it would otherwise hit something.
> You folks that have already completed one, what's the story - can another pass
through be located on the recess, and where? Any caveats? We are not doing anything
funky, such as relocating the IO-540 oil filter.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461991#461991
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
I used the provided holes. They worked.
Note, while the Van's recommended mixture and prop cables worked, the recommended
throttle cable was too short. I sent it back to Van's and exchanged it for
the 50.5" cable the list for the RV-7. That one fits well.
Carl
> On Nov 3, 2016, at 7:30 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>
> We are getting ready to hang our engine, and I'm wondering about the control
cable pass throughs on the plans for the F1007K Recess. They seem to be off to
the side, because it would otherwise hit something.
> You folks that have already completed one, what's the story - can another pass
through be located on the recess, and where? Any caveats? We are not doing anything
funky, such as relocating the IO-540 oil filter.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461991#461991
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
I found that all 3 passing through the factory holes was too close and severely
disfigured the small sliver of stainless between each of the holes. I instead
covered those holes and made 3 new holes, where I wanted them, in the recess.
They're finished out with eyeball pass throughs.
I wish I had never drilled the original holes to size. I had to build a stainless
plate to rivet over them with pro-seal to seal it. It would have been easier
and better just to drop a rivet in the holes and move in with real holes
where they worked better with the material.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 3, 2016, at 6:30 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>
> We are getting ready to hang our engine, and I'm wondering about the control
cable pass throughs on the plans for the F1007K Recess. They seem to be off to
the side, because it would otherwise hit something.
> You folks that have already completed one, what's the story - can another pass
through be located on the recess, and where? Any caveats? We are not doing anything
funky, such as relocating the IO-540 oil filter.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461991#461991
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
Perhaps you drilled the holes too big. I remember needing to strip the control
cables of all hardware and rubber fairings to fit through the grommets.
Carl
> On Nov 3, 2016, at 8:07 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>
> I found that all 3 passing through the factory holes was too close and severely
disfigured the small sliver of stainless between each of the holes. I instead
covered those holes and made 3 new holes, where I wanted them, in the recess.
They're finished out with eyeball pass throughs.
>
> I wish I had never drilled the original holes to size. I had to build a stainless
plate to rivet over them with pro-seal to seal it. It would have been
easier and better just to drop a rivet in the holes and move in with real holes
where they worked better with the material.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 3, 2016, at 6:30 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>>
>>
>> We are getting ready to hang our engine, and I'm wondering about the control
cable pass throughs on the plans for the F1007K Recess. They seem to be off to
the side, because it would otherwise hit something.
>> You folks that have already completed one, what's the story - can another pass
through be located on the recess, and where? Any caveats? We are not doing
anything funky, such as relocating the IO-540 oil filter.
>>
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461991#461991
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
That's what I did too, but didn't have much success with my
Installation.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 3, 2016, at 7:46 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
>
> Perhaps you drilled the holes too big. I remember needing to strip the control
cables of all hardware and rubber fairings to fit through the grommets.
>
> Carl
>
>> On Nov 3, 2016, at 8:07 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>>
>> I found that all 3 passing through the factory holes was too close and severely
disfigured the small sliver of stainless between each of the holes. I instead
covered those holes and made 3 new holes, where I wanted them, in the recess.
They're finished out with eyeball pass throughs.
>>
>> I wish I had never drilled the original holes to size. I had to build a stainless
plate to rivet over them with pro-seal to seal it. It would have been
easier and better just to drop a rivet in the holes and move in with real holes
where they worked better with the material.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Nov 3, 2016, at 6:30 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> We are getting ready to hang our engine, and I'm wondering about the control
cable pass throughs on the plans for the F1007K Recess. They seem to be off
to the side, because it would otherwise hit something.
>>> You folks that have already completed one, what's the story - can another pass
through be located on the recess, and where? Any caveats? We are not doing
anything funky, such as relocating the IO-540 oil filter.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> --------
>>> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461991#461991
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I really appreciate the replies, but I was wondering about the fourth cable to
the alternate air. If we use a cable pass through instead of the specified grommets,
is there a good place for the fourth one?
Also, IF we use Actuators (instead of cables) for the heat, could a pass through
for electrical wires work in the recess? We are actually thinking of a single
actuator for the rear seat heat control.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462000#462000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
John, as Carl and Phil mentioned, I too used the original holes. I made
custom SS fittings for my firewall/cables and wished I had spread the
fittings out a bit. If you're using fire sleeve etc, getting a gear clamp
secured is a bit more difficult. Why not spread them out a bit? Of course
you may end up with cables that are too short. I replaced my throttle
cable with the RV7 length, and bought a McFarlane cable for the mixture.
All in all, it worked out well.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 7:50 AM, johngoodman
wrote:
>
> I really appreciate the replies, but I was wondering about the fourth
> cable to the alternate air. If we use a cable pass through instead of the
> specified grommets, is there a good place for the fourth one?
> Also, IF we use Actuators (instead of cables) for the heat, could a pass
> through for electrical wires work in the recess? We are actually thinking
> of a single actuator for the rear seat heat control.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462000#462000
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
John,
I did not like having the other controls mixed in with the engine and prop
controls. I moved the Engine Alt Air to the left side of the panel apron,
next to the Oil Cooler Air butterfly valve control. The two cabin heat
controls on mid way on the right side of the apron. I replaced the provided
piece of angle for the engine controls with a new piece of aluminum (I bent
a piece of 0.050). In the attached photo the far left red control is for
Engine Alt Air. The black control next to it is for oil cooler air.
One other thing I did was to add a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" .063 aluminum
between the apron (near the engine controls) and the firewall. I did not
link the apron flex when moving the controls - the angle provides a much
more solid feel.
Note - this is the second panel in the RV-10. The first one lasted about 18
months. Since this photo the panel has again been twice modified to add the
Dynon Knob Panel (I don't know how I lived without it) and breakers and
light for a B&C aux alternator. My point being make sure you plan on panel
changes and modifications. You will not know what you want until after you
have some hours in the plane. For me replacing a panel is a new $27 panel
blank from Van's, cutting some holes and paint. If you get one of the really
nice custom panels your may find a modification harder to perform.
Carl
RV-8A (sold 2012)
RV-10 (sold 2016)
RV-8 (waiting for all the kits to arrive next month)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2016 7:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Quick Question
-->
I really appreciate the replies, but I was wondering about the fourth cable
to the alternate air. If we use a cable pass through instead of the
specified grommets, is there a good place for the fourth one?
Also, IF we use Actuators (instead of cables) for the heat, could a pass
through for electrical wires work in the recess? We are actually thinking of
a single actuator for the rear seat heat control.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462000#462000
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lord -20 vs -28 vibration mounts |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I recently balanced my prop, and it's down to 0.01 IPS now but i still get some
vibration that makes the sun visors shake more than I like.
Turns out my VIP mounts have compressed some and there's a gap between the vibration
mount and the engine mount. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture but it
looks similar to this:
http://i60.tinypic.com/2vkxq2u.jpg
Has anyone had this issue before?
I was looking into getting new Lord mounts. Van's sells them for around $125 a
piece, they are J-3804-20.
Lord also has a J-3804-28 model with silicone filled spacers that supposedly help
startup and shutdown engine shaking. Sounds great, but the price is $246.95
at AircraftSpruce.
Is anyone using these 28s, and are they worth double the money?
Thanks,
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462015#462015
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lord -20 vs -28 vibration mounts |
We have a -8 with a 540 on it in the hangar now for annual. The mounts on it were
in need of replacement too.
We talked to Lord about this same question and they initially gave us replacement
part numbers with the updated elastomer and isn't realize it. We were confused
because the parts we had in hand were a different part number.
After placing another call to Lord, we realized that we had the old elastomer part
(and numbers). He said that, when they could, they're directing people
to the new elastomer because of longevity.
Apparently it doesn't break down as quickly with heat and chemicals; where the
rubber apparently does.
I have no real world experience with it beyond that. But did find the exercise
enlightening. Whether it plays out in the long run or not remains to be seen....
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 5, 2016, at 11:22 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
>
> I recently balanced my prop, and it's down to 0.01 IPS now but i still get some
vibration that makes the sun visors shake more than I like.
> Turns out my VIP mounts have compressed some and there's a gap between the vibration
mount and the engine mount. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture but
it looks similar to this:
>
> http://i60.tinypic.com/2vkxq2u.jpg
>
> Has anyone had this issue before?
> I was looking into getting new Lord mounts. Van's sells them for around $125
a piece, they are J-3804-20.
> Lord also has a J-3804-28 model with silicone filled spacers that supposedly
help startup and shutdown engine shaking. Sounds great, but the price is $246.95
at AircraftSpruce.
>
> Is anyone using these 28s, and are they worth double the money?
>
> Thanks,
> Lenny
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462015#462015
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
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Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
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Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another Source - Heavy duty gas struts |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
My hanger mate finally shamed me into replacing my door gas struts that would auto
close when open.
When googling suppliers I came across a Canadian company who made drop in replacements
for the Van struts. The cost was $30CDN ($22.50 USD) each plus shipping.
I had them in 3 days from order. The company is LS Technologies (www.lstechnologies.ca) and can be reached at (306) 683-5000. I was speaking with Nolan Fehr who was most helpful.
Below is the part # label showing what I ordered. They are 600N struts that hold
my heavy door door up quite nicely - the end of stroke dampening is excellent.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462114#462114
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_5931_844.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doc <docclv(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) |
Slick 6300 Mags ohm Lycoming D4A5 IO-540 engines are driven by a
pair of dogs 180 degrees apart. The dogs fit into (2) slots in the
engine magneto drive shaft. The mag will fit on the engine magneto
mount only one of two ways, 180 degrees apart.
Before removing the mag(s) take a center punch or felt marker and
mark adjoining places on the mag and its mounting bracket. This will
give you a nice reference when you put the mag back on the engine. Make
note of what position the distributor cap is on the back of the mag.
Remove it with a T20 Torx tip and 1/4" wrench. It has to be put back on
the mag in the same relative position (It will fit in any of (3) 120
degree positions).
Make sure the ignition switch is off. Remove the number one
cylinder plug and turn the prop in its normal direction placing your
thumb over the spark plug hole until air comes out. The piston is on
the compression stroke approaching TDC. Timing marks are on the back
side of the starter ring gear plate and or on the front side of the ring
gear plate. The back side marks align with the top split in the crank
case and the front side marks align with a hole in the starter (see
Lycoming's service manual).
Turn the prop until 25 degrees BTC aligns with either reference.
To tell what 180 degree position the mag shaft needs to be in when
putting the mag back on the engine, poke a timing pin (a number 12 ga
copper wire works well) in the "L" hole in the distributor block. You
will note that the "L" hole and "R" holes are 180 degrees apart. There
is an
"X" hole between the "L" and "R" holes for a laser setting of the timing.
Turn the mag clockwise (looking at the engine side of the
mag--opposite to the left hand rotation of the mag) while gently pushing
the timing pin in the hole. The timing pin will drop down into a hole
in the distributor gear preventing the mag shaft from turning further.
Be careful not to damage the gear by turning the mag shaft too hard
against the stop. This places the mag shaft in the right 180 degree
position for timing the mag. The marks (center punch or felt marker)
will let you put the mag back on the engine close to its original timed
position. You can finish timing the mag with a timing light, buzz box,
ohm meter, etc.
Remove the timing pin. Put the mag back on the engine taking care
not to turn the mag shaft so much that it would be 180 degrees out of
the timing pin position you determined. Make sure the black hard rubber
blocks in the engine mag gear slots didn't come out when the mag was
removed. You can put them back in with a little grease to hold them in
place.
Gently snug up the mounting blocks and nuts on the mag to hold it
from turning while you check the timing. The points open at 25 degrees
BTC. Set the timing by gently turning the mag. Turning the mag into
its left hand rotation (counter clockwise looking at the back) advances
the time. Clockwise reduces the time.
Check the timing by removing the ignition wire from the P-lead and
connecting your timing device to the P-terminal of the mag. Make sure
the ignition switch is in the "off" position so you can't have a hot
mag. You can time the mag with an ohm meter. The meter will read a few
ohms and then increase an ohm or two when the points "open". It will
not go to infinity, etc. as one might expect. Check the timing either
side of 25 degrees BTC by bumping the propeller back and forth while
watching your ohm meter, buzz box, timing light, etc. Once you think it
is timed, rotate the prop two full revolutions and check the timing
again. If the timing is right, tighten the mag mounting nuts and check
the timing one last time. Reassemble the mag, distributor cap, ignition
wire, spark plug, etc.
If the engine will not start or will not run on either mag, the
mag(s) are 180 degrees out of time.
You can get specific mag repairs and internal mag adjustment
information from the Slick Overhaul Manual.
Doc RV10 #41087 N123CV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) |
I agree with most of this except "It has to be put back on the mag in the same
relative position (It will fit in any of (3) 120 degree positions)." All the mags
I have installed the harness cap can only fit in one position.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 6, 2016, at 6:46 PM, Doc wrote:
>
> It has to be put back on the mag in the same relative position (It will fit in
any of (3) 120 degree positions).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) |
The RV-10 is the first airplane I've owned with mags - and reading stuff like this
I pray it will be the last. Just turned 400 hrs on the from the factory Slick
Mags and keeping my fingers crossed that Brad at pMag sends me the new six
cylinder ignitions before I need to do the 500 hour check.
Carl
> On Nov 6, 2016, at 6:46 PM, Doc wrote:
>
>
> Slick 6300 Mags ohm Lycoming D4A5 IO-540 engines are driven by a pair of
dogs 180 degrees apart. The dogs fit into (2) slots in the engine magneto drive
shaft. The mag will fit on the engine magneto mount only one of two ways,
180 degrees apart.
>
> Before removing the mag(s) take a center punch or felt marker and mark adjoining
places on the mag and its mounting bracket. This will give you a nice
reference when you put the mag back on the engine. Make note of what position
the distributor cap is on the back of the mag. Remove it with a T20 Torx tip
and 1/4" wrench. It has to be put back on the mag in the same relative position
(It will fit in any of (3) 120 degree positions).
>
> Make sure the ignition switch is off. Remove the number one cylinder plug
and turn the prop in its normal direction placing your thumb over the spark
plug hole until air comes out. The piston is on the compression stroke approaching
TDC. Timing marks are on the back side of the starter ring gear plate and
or on the front side of the ring gear plate. The back side marks align with
the top split in the crank case and the front side marks align with a hole in
the starter (see Lycoming's service manual).
>
> Turn the prop until 25 degrees BTC aligns with either reference.
>
> To tell what 180 degree position the mag shaft needs to be in when putting
the mag back on the engine, poke a timing pin (a number 12 ga copper wire works
well) in the "L" hole in the distributor block. You will note that the "L"
hole and "R" holes are 180 degrees apart. There is an
> "X" hole between the "L" and "R" holes for a laser setting of the timing.
>
> Turn the mag clockwise (looking at the engine side of the mag--opposite to
the left hand rotation of the mag) while gently pushing the timing pin in the
hole. The timing pin will drop down into a hole in the distributor gear preventing
the mag shaft from turning further. Be careful not to damage the gear
by turning the mag shaft too hard against the stop. This places the mag shaft
in the right 180 degree position for timing the mag. The marks (center punch
or felt marker) will let you put the mag back on the engine close to its original
timed position. You can finish timing the mag with a timing light, buzz
box, ohm meter, etc.
>
> Remove the timing pin. Put the mag back on the engine taking care not to
turn the mag shaft so much that it would be 180 degrees out of the timing pin
position you determined. Make sure the black hard rubber blocks in the engine
mag gear slots didn't come out when the mag was removed. You can put them back
in with a little grease to hold them in place.
>
> Gently snug up the mounting blocks and nuts on the mag to hold it from turning
while you check the timing. The points open at 25 degrees BTC. Set the
timing by gently turning the mag. Turning the mag into its left hand rotation
(counter clockwise looking at the back) advances the time. Clockwise reduces
the time.
>
> Check the timing by removing the ignition wire from the P-lead and connecting
your timing device to the P-terminal of the mag. Make sure the ignition switch
is in the "off" position so you can't have a hot mag. You can time the
mag with an ohm meter. The meter will read a few ohms and then increase an ohm
or two when the points "open". It will not go to infinity, etc. as one might
expect. Check the timing either side of 25 degrees BTC by bumping the propeller
back and forth while watching your ohm meter, buzz box, timing light, etc.
Once you think it is timed, rotate the prop two full revolutions and check the
timing again. If the timing is right, tighten the mag mounting nuts and check
the timing one last time. Reassemble the mag, distributor cap, ignition wire,
spark plug, etc.
>
> If the engine will not start or will not run on either mag, the mag(s) are
180 degrees out of time.
>
> You can get specific mag repairs and internal mag adjustment information
from the Slick Overhaul Manual.
>
> Doc RV10 #41087 N123CV
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Source - Heavy duty gas struts |
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
I got similarly priced gas struts from a local company here in Australia.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 7 Nov 2016, at 09:35, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> My hanger mate finally shamed me into replacing my door gas struts that would
auto close when open.
>
> When googling suppliers I came across a Canadian company who made drop in replacements
for the Van struts. The cost was $30CDN ($22.50 USD) each plus shipping.
>
> I had them in 3 days from order. The company is LS Technologies (www.lstechnologies.ca) and can be reached at (306) 683-5000. I was speaking with Nolan Fehr who was most helpful.
>
> Below is the part # label showing what I ordered. They are 600N struts that hold
my heavy door door up quite nicely - the end of stroke dampening is excellent.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462114#462114
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_5931_844.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Source - Heavy duty gas struts |
| From: | Andrew Long <along(at)aanet.com.au> |
Hi Patrick,
What was the name of the company and the part number of the gas struts.
I literally broke on on the weekend. :-(
Regards,
Andrew.
On 08-Nov-16 9:18 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> I got similarly priced gas struts from a local company here in Australia.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
>> On 7 Nov 2016, at 09:35, kearney wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> My hanger mate finally shamed me into replacing my door gas struts that would
auto close when open.
>>
>> When googling suppliers I came across a Canadian company who made drop in replacements
for the Van struts. The cost was $30CDN ($22.50 USD) each plus shipping.
>>
>> I had them in 3 days from order. The company is LS Technologies (www.lstechnologies.ca) and can be reached at (306) 683-5000. I was speaking with Nolan Fehr who was most helpful.
>>
>> Below is the part # label showing what I ordered. They are 600N struts that
hold my heavy door door up quite nicely - the end of stroke dampening is excellent.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462114#462114
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_5931_844.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Caulk around windows? |
Have any of you ran a bead of caulk around the interior side of the windows to
make a fillet that transitions the glass to the cabin top?
I'm staring at a mixed pot of pro-seal (my current plan) but really don't want
to string that oooey gooey stuff all rebound the inside of the windscreen. So
before I did, I thought I'd ask the caulk question first.
My specific concern about caulk is crazing after long-term application.
So if you have used caulk, what type did you use and how long has it been applied
to the glass?
Otherwise I'll just continue down the proseal path....
Thanks,
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Caulk around windows? |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal Trombley" <neal(at)gulfatl.net> |
| Subject: | Caulk around windows? |
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PT09PT09PT0NCg0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Caulk around windows? |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I used SikaFlex 295UV, without primer. Most of the stuff is on fiberglass and it
sticks to that without primer. I used 1/4" 3M blue vinyl tape to mask it, and
pulled the tape immediately after applying the Sika.
Practice pulling the tape on a test piece first. You can clean up with mineral
spirits.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462231#462231
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Caulk around windows? |
I filled with micro and glass taped over the edge of the window
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Nov 8, 2016, at 11:53 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Have any of you ran a bead of caulk around the interior side of the
windows to make a fillet that transitions the glass to the cabin top?
>
> I'm staring at a mixed pot of pro-seal (my current plan) but really
don't want to string that oooey gooey stuff all rebound the inside of
the windscreen. So before I did, I thought I'd ask the caulk question
first.
>
> My specific concern about caulk is crazing after long-term
application.
>
> So if you have used caulk, what type did you use and how long has it
been applied to the glass?
>
> Otherwise I'll just continue down the proseal path....
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
Westcott Press
1121 Isabel Street
Burbank, CA 91506
jeff(at)westcottpress.com
818-861-7300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Caulk around windows? |
Thanks. I'm talking about the interior side specifically. The outside is a
lready completed.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 8, 2016, at 4:10 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I filled with micro and glass taped over the edge of the window
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
>> On Nov 8, 2016, at 11:53 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>>
>> Have any of you ran a bead of caulk around the interior side of the windo
ws to make a fillet that transitions the glass to the cabin top?
>>
>> I'm staring at a mixed pot of pro-seal (my current plan) but really don't
want to string that oooey gooey stuff all rebound the inside of the windscr
een. So before I did, I thought I'd ask the caulk question first.
>>
>> My specific concern about caulk is crazing after long-term application.
>>
>> So if you have used caulk, what type did you use and how long has it been
applied to the glass?
>>
>> Otherwise I'll just continue down the proseal path....
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my -- Please Support Your Lists This (And Get A
eroElectric http://www.matronics.com/co -Matt Dr
alle, List - The RV10-List --> http://www.matronics=====
===================http://www.matronic
s.com/co================
>>
>>
>>
>
> Westcott Press
> 1121 Isabel Street
> Burbank, CA 91506
> jeff(at)westcottpress.com
> 818-861-7300
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button... |
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages.
Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through
the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added
to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund
Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes
to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric
bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered
on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which
allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in
reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined
with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site
up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics
Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are
so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have
it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous
public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in |
December!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that ilk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning,
maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser
each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email
every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the
operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory.
Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT P860-3 Prop Gov fail. |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
According to my insurance adjuster they just received a brand new claim for another
PG failure.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462541#462541
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
A quick reminder that November is the annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists
are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are covered solely
through your Contributions during this time of the year.
*Your* personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics
Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running for another
great year!
Use a credit card or your PayPal account here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by sending a personal check to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT P860-3 Prop Gov fail. |
| From: | "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> |
Where can I access the SB on this? The Van's website directs to MT website but
the list of MT SBs doesn't seem to include this one.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462641#462641
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Rufi <craigr60(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT P860-3 Prop Gov fail. |
If I understand what you posted, if your serial number is not on the
service bulletin then you are good to go...
Good Luck
On Wed, Nov 16, 2016 at 6:40 AM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Where can I access the SB on this? The Van's website directs to MT website
> but the list of MT SBs doesn't seem to include this one.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462641#462641
>
>
--
Thank You,
Craig Rufi
Email craigr60(at)gmail.com
Cell 805 402-6480
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandra & Rick" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT P860-3 Prop Gov fail. |
Bob88 try this link http://www.mt-propeller.com/en/entw/serviced.htm or
google MT prop service bulletins. I just tried it and they are there.
Rick
C-GDMH
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: November 16, 2016 9:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: MT P860-3 Prop Gov fail.
Where can I access the SB on this? The Van's website directs to MT website
but the list of MT SBs doesn't seem to include this one.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462641#462641
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT P860-3 Prop Gov fail. |
Note: Ignore the languag about higher compression and electronic ignition.
IIRC none of the failures had either feature. If your serial number is
there, regardless of model, contact MT-USA. Even if your serial number is
anywhere close, talk to them. My model was not included, but my serial
number was. they said send it in. It cost me shipping both directions, but
no charge to modify to latest design parts. It was worth it for peace of
mind.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Wed, Nov 16, 2016 at 4:56 PM, Sandra & Rick wrote:
>
> Bob88 try this link http://www.mt-propeller.com/en/entw/serviced.htm or
> google MT prop service bulletins. I just tried it and they are there.
>
> Rick
> C-GDMH
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> Sent: November 16, 2016 9:40 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: MT P860-3 Prop Gov fail.
>
>
> Where can I access the SB on this? The Van's website directs to MT website
> but the list of MT SBs doesn't seem to include this one.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462641#462641
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's Your Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
You might have wondered at some point, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here
are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides
for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List.
It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest
performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine,
List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for the over 23 years of on-line
archive data always available for instant search and access. And, it offsets
the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications
that power these List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums,
and Wiki.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses.
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables all these aspects of Matronics List
services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of
the best investments you can make in your Sport!
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution
too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fatal RV-10 accident |
Anyone know anything about this crash?
https://www.aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=191188
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fatal RV-10 accident |
Read about it the they day. =46rom what I've collected.
It was in Phase 1, about 4 hrs in.
On departure a door opened and the pilot was seen wrestling with the door d
uring the takeoff roll, rotation, and climb out.
I think I recall a pilot witness saying it got to around 30 AGL before it de
scended back into the ground.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 19, 2016, at 5:58 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Anyone know anything about this crash?
> https://www.aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=191188
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fatal RV-10 accident |
That's what I heard secondhand too. "Fly the airplane" sounds like the prim
ary thing that was not done.
Additionally it doesn't sound like the door was latched all the way....with t
he handle still pointing up. But this is all second info hand for me. I hav
e no knowledge of it directly.
Tim
> On Nov 19, 2016, at 6:22 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Read about it the they day. =46rom what I've collected.
>
> It was in Phase 1, about 4 hrs in.
>
> On departure a door opened and the pilot was seen wrestling with the door
during the takeoff roll, rotation, and climb out.
>
> I think I recall a pilot witness saying it got to around 30 AGL before it d
escended back into the ground.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 19, 2016, at 5:58 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> Anyone know anything about this crash?
>> https://www.aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=191188
>>
>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fatal RV-10 accident |
It was Bruce Stamper, from Dubois, WY (and summers in Alaska as a salmon
fisher). He was on VAF quite a bit (as "Stamper"), but I don't recall
seeing him on Matronics.
Sad deal...
The NTSB Prelim is out:
http://www.ntsb.gov/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/brief.aspx?ev_id 161105X23019&key=1
NTSB Identification: CEN17FA035
14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
Accident occurred Saturday, November 05, 2016 in Dubois, WY
Aircraft: STAMPER RV-10, registration: N924WY
Injuries: 1 Fatal.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors.
Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been
completed. NTSB investigators either traveled in support of this
investigation or conducted a significant amount of investigative work
without any travel, and used data obtained from various sources to prepare
this aircraft accident report.
On November 5, 2016, about 0756 mountain daylight time, an experimental
amateur-built Stamper model RV-10 single-engine airplane, N924WY, was
destroyed during a postimpact fire following a loss of control shortly
after takeoff from Dubois Municipal Airport (DUB), Dubois, Wyoming. The
private pilot, the sole occupant, was fatally injured. The airplane was
registered to and operated by the pilot under the provisions of 14 Code of
Federal Regulations Part 91 as a test flight. Day visual meteorological
conditions prevailed for the presumed local flight.
A witness, who was also a pilot, reported that he saw the accident airplane
takeoff from runway 28 (6,100 feet by 60 feet, asphalt). He stated that he
saw the right-side gull-wing door open immediately after liftoff. After the
door opened, he saw the pilot reach for the fully open door with his right
hand and heard a momentary reduction of engine power. He saw the airplane
descend momentarily before he heard an increase in engine power and saw the
airplane level off over the runway. He reported that the pilot continued to
reach for the open cabin door as the airplane overflew the remaining runway
about 35 feet above ground level (agl). The witness then observed the
airplane's left wing and nose drop suddenly. He surmised that the airplane
had entered an aerodynamic stall/spin. The airplane descended below his
line-of-sight before he observed a large explosion.
The accident airplane was an experimental amateur-built Stamper model RV-10
single-engine airplane, serial number 40146. An experimental 260-horsepower
Aero Sport Power model IO-540-D4A5 reciprocating engine, serial number
1542, powered the airplane through a constant-speed, three blade, Whirl
Wind Aviation model 375RV composite propeller, serial number 375-106. The
airplane had a fixed tricycle landing gear, was capable of seating four
individuals, and had a certified maximum gross weight of 2,700 pounds. The
airplane was equipped with two composite gull-wing cabin doors. The
airplane was issued a special airworthiness certificate on April 23, 2016.
According to available information, the airplane likely had accumulated
10-12 hours since receiving the airworthiness certificate. The last
condition inspection of the airplane was completed on April 23, 2016, in
conjunction with the issuance of the airworthiness certificate. A
postaccident review of available maintenance records found no history of
unresolved airworthiness issues. The airplane had a total fuel capacity of
60 gallons distributed between two wing fuel tanks. A review of fueling
records established that the airplane fuel tanks were topped-off before the
accident flight.
According to FAA records, the pilot, age 44, held a private pilot
certificate with airplane single engine land, airplane single engine sea,
and instrument airplane ratings. His last aviation medical examination was
completed on September 17, 2015, when he was issued a second-class medical
certificate with no limitations or restrictions. A pilot logbook was not
recovered during the on-scene investigation. According to recent insurance
documentation, provided during October 2016, the pilot reported having a
total flight experience of 1,500 hours, of which 40 hours were completed in
Vans Aircraft RV-6 airplanes, 4 hours in Vans Aircraft model RV-10
airplanes, and 2 hours in the accident airplane.
At 0755, the DUB automated surface observing system reported the following
weather conditions: wind 270 degrees true at 6 knots, visibility 10 miles,
sky clear, temperature 0 degrees Celsius, dew point -8 degrees Celsius, and
an altimeter setting 30.29 inches of mercury.
The initial point-of-impact was in an open field about 1,675 feet past the
runway 28 departure threshold and 183 feet left of the extended runway
centerline. A 67-foot-long debris path, oriented on a 210-degree magnetic
heading, was observed between the initial point-of-impact and the main
wreckage. A ground impact crater, containing propeller fragments, was
observed about 44 feet from the initial point-of-impact. The main wreckage
consisted of the fuselage, wings, and empennage. The cabin, including the
cockpit instrument panel, was destroyed during the postimpact fire. Both
wings exhibited damage consistent with ground impact. The empennage was
relatively undamaged. A flight control continuity check was not possible
due to the extent of damage; however, all observed flight control
separations were consistent with fire and impact related damage.
The right-side gull-wing door was located in a ravine about 600 feet
northeast of the main wreckage. The door was located about 1,500 feet past
the runway 28 departure threshold and 200 feet right of the extended runway
centerline. The door had separated from the fuselage hinges. There was no
evidence that the door had struck any portion of the airplane after it had
separated. The door was equipped with forward and aft door latch pins and a
center latch mechanism. The center latch consisted of a rotating
semicircular cam that worked in conjunction with the two door latch pins.
The door was not equipped with the safety latch mechanism that was provided
by the airframe kit manufacturer. Before the door was recovered from the
ravine, the door latch handle was observed to be about 20 degrees from a
vertical position or about 110 degrees from the fully latched position. The
forward and aft door latch pins were found extended about 1/8 inch outside
the door. The curved portion of the semicircular center latch was found
facing aft. A functional test of the door latch mechanism did not reveal
any anomalies. The door latch handle rotated 180-degrees between the open
and latched positions. When the handle was in the latched position, the
forward and aft door latch pins extended 1-1/4 inches outside the door and
the curved portion of the semicircular center latch faced down. The latch
pins were equipped with embedded magnets that interfaced with position
switches installed in the fuselage door frames. These position switches,
which were destroyed during the postimpact fire, were part of a door latch
annunciator circuit. A functional test of the door latch annunciator system
was not possible due to fire damage sustained after the accident to the
fuselage and instrument panel.
The engine remained partially attached to the firewall by its mounts.
Internal engine and valve train continuity was confirmed as the engine
crankshaft was rotated. Compression and suction were noted on cylinder Nos.
1, 2, 3, and 5 in conjunction with crankshaft rotation. No compression was
noted on cylinder Nos. 4 and 6 due to thermal damage to the valve springs.
The engine was equipped with a traditional magneto and an electronic
ignition system. The traditional magneto exhibited extensive thermal damage
and could not be tested. The electronic ignition was not recovered and
likely was destroyed during the postimpact fire. The upper spark plugs were
removed and exhibited features consistent with normal engine operation. A
borescope inspection revealed no anomalies with the cylinders, valves, or
pistons. The propeller hub remained attached to the engine crankshaft
flange. Two of the three composite blades were destroyed during the impact
sequence. The remaining composite blade exhibited thermal damage from the
postimpact fire.
On Sat, Nov 19, 2016 at 6:32 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> That's what I heard secondhand too. "Fly the airplane" sounds like the
> primary thing that was not done.
> Additionally it doesn't sound like the door was latched all the
> way....with the handle still pointing up. But this is all second info hand
> for me. I have no knowledge of it directly.
> Tim
>
> On Nov 19, 2016, at 6:22 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Read about it the they day. From what I've collected.
>
> It was in Phase 1, about 4 hrs in.
>
> On departure a door opened and the pilot was seen wrestling with the door
> during the takeoff roll, rotation, and climb out.
>
> I think I recall a pilot witness saying it got to around 30 AGL before it
> descended back into the ground.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 19, 2016, at 5:58 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Anyone know anything about this crash?
> https://www.aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=191188
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fatal RV-10 accident |
| From: | paul <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John MacCallum" <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Fatal RV-10 accident |
I would think that 30ft AGL wouldn=99t result in a loss of the
Aircraft if it was a controlled or semi controlled descent.
Anyway it is very sad and sobering to read about a fellow builder
passing. Let us learn from the incident and say Vale=99 Bruce
Stamper.
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV 10 # 41016
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, 20 November 2016 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fatal RV-10 accident
That's what I heard secondhand too. "Fly the airplane" sounds like the
primary thing that was not done.
Additionally it doesn't sound like the door was latched all the
way....with the handle still pointing up. But this is all second info
hand for me. I have no knowledge of it directly.
Tim
On Nov 19, 2016, at 6:22 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
Read about it the they day. From what I've collected.
It was in Phase 1, about 4 hrs in.
On departure a door opened and the pilot was seen wrestling with the
door during the takeoff roll, rotation, and climb out.
I think I recall a pilot witness saying it got to around 30 AGL before
it descended back into the ground.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 19, 2016, at 5:58 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
Anyone know anything about this crash?
https://www.aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=191188
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fritzsche" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Valve Mounting Bracket |
My quick build fuselage came with the mounting bracket F1048C-1
installed facing down. There was a tag attached saying that it should
be reinstalled face up (the U facing up). They also sent me a new
bracket in case I messed up the installed one removing it. I am now in
the process of installing the fuel valve, an Andair unit. I have made a
mounting plate to rivet to the F1048C-1 so that mounting holes will
match the Andair valve. I am ready to flip the mounting bracket but
find the flush rivets on the aft end of the bracket are 1/4 inch from
the vertical panel of the seat mounting structure. I do not have a
drill that will fit in that close of an area and my rivet gun is too
wide to drive a rivet in that space. How have others made this change?
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Mounting Bracket |
I cut the sides off the bracket and riveted two pieces of angle aluminum to
get the width I need, got the Andair extension, mounted valve as low as
possible, then cut the extension to required length. I did not want the
valve up near the top of the tunnel, as that creates potential for vapor or
air lock. I got the right angle fitting from Van's catalog to make the
connection at the bottom of the valve.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 10:52 AM, David J. Fritzsche
wrote:
>
>
> My quick build fuselage came with the mounting bracket F1048C-1 installed
> facing down. There was a tag attached saying that it should be reinstalled
> face up (the U facing up). They also sent me a new bracket in case I
> messed up the installed one removing it. I am now in the process of
> installing the fuel valve, an Andair unit. I have made a mounting plate to
> rivet to the F1048C-1 so that mounting holes will match the Andair valve.
> I am ready to flip the mounting bracket but find the flush rivets on the
> aft end of the bracket are 1/4 inch from the vertical panel of the seat
> mounting structure. I do not have a drill that will fit in that close of
> an area and my rivet gun is too wide to drive a rivet in that space. How
> have others made this change?
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Mounting Bracket |
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Mounting Bracket |
| From: | "David J. Fritzsche" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
Kelly,
The only right angle fittings I can find in Van's catalog are
tube/pipe. Both my valve and filter have male tubing connections. I
would need a right angle with female tube connections on both ends.
Dave
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
David J. Fritzsche
Professor, Retired
Penn State
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
On 11/21/2016 12:51 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I cut the sides off the bracket and riveted two pieces of angle
> aluminum to get the width I need, got the Andair extension, mounted
> valve as low as possible, then cut the extension to required length. I
> did not want the valve up near the top of the tunnel, as that creates
> potential for vapor or air lock. I got the right angle fitting from
> Van's catalog to make the connection at the bottom of the valve.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 10:52 AM, David J. Fritzsche
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
>
> My quick build fuselage came with the mounting bracket F1048C-1
> installed facing down. There was a tag attached saying that it
> should be reinstalled face up (the U facing up). They also sent
> me a new bracket in case I messed up the installed one removing
> it. I am now in the process of installing the fuel valve, an
> Andair unit. I have made a mounting plate to rivet to the F1048C-1
> so that mounting holes will match the Andair valve. I am ready to
> flip the mounting bracket but find the flush rivets on the aft end
> of the bracket are 1/4 inch from the vertical panel of the seat
> mounting structure. I do not have a drill that will fit in that
> close of an area and my rivet gun is too wide to drive a rivet in
> that space. How have others made this change?
>
> Dave
> ===================================
> br> fts!)
> r> > /www.aeroelectric.com" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> p.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
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> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
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> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Mounting Bracket |
It is called the F Swivel Tee. There is only one female fitting, as the
other two are intended to have female flared fittings connected to them,
like virtually all of the fuel system connections.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 1:29 PM, David J. Fritzsche
wrote:
> Kelly,
>
> The only right angle fittings I can find in Van's catalog are tube/pipe.
> Both my valve and filter have male tubing connections. I would need a
> right angle with female tube connections on both ends.
>
> Dave
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> David J. Fritzsche
> Professor, Retired
> Penn State
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> On 11/21/2016 12:51 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I cut the sides off the bracket and riveted two pieces of angle aluminum
> to get the width I need, got the Andair extension, mounted valve as low as
> possible, then cut the extension to required length. I did not want the
> valve up near the top of the tunnel, as that creates potential for vapor or
> air lock. I got the right angle fitting from Van's catalog to make the
> connection at the bottom of the valve.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 10:52 AM, David J. Fritzsche
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> My quick build fuselage came with the mounting bracket F1048C-1 installed
>> facing down. There was a tag attached saying that it should be reinstalled
>> face up (the U facing up). They also sent me a new bracket in case I
>> messed up the installed one removing it. I am now in the process of
>> installing the fuel valve, an Andair unit. I have made a mounting plate to
>> rivet to the F1048C-1 so that mounting holes will match the Andair valve.
>> I am ready to flip the mounting bracket but find the flush rivets on the
>> aft end of the bracket are 1/4 inch from the vertical panel of the seat
>> mounting structure. I do not have a drill that will fit in that close of
>> an area and my rivet gun is too wide to drive a rivet in that space. How
>> have others made this change?
>>
>> Dave
>> ===================================
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > /www.aeroelectric.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.
>> aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.
>> buildersbooks.com
>> p.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
>> ator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least
that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get
a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to
think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during
this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through
YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB: Cleveland brake parts |
| From: | "Plummit" <marcwhis(at)gmail.com> |
All, I'm looking for the backing plate and pressure plates for my Cleveland 3059E
wheel brakes. I'd like to get 2 ea 063-03400 and 2 ea 064-02900.
Short of that, if you upgraded your RV0-10 brakes and have the old brakes for sale
as a complete kit I may be interested in that.
Let me know
~Marc
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463101#463101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists!
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying
Contribution too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
Guys
Since it is not in the Van's RV-10 manual, does anybody have a drawing that shows
the hardware used to install the 4 engine mount bosses to the Lyco 540 engine?
I suppose that I have to use 16 nuts + 16 flat washers + 16 star washers, but I
want to be sure which, and in what order.
On the other hand, what is to tool to use to tighten the 2 inner nuts of each of
the 4 mount bosses?
Specially the ones on the engine bottom?
Best
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Behind By 28% - Please Contribute Today! |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of members making a Contribution to support the Lists this year
is currently behind last year by at this time by roughly 28%. Please take this
opportunity to show your support for the Matronics Lists and Forums!
Please remember that it is *solely* your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
and Forums up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members
don't want to support the Lists directly, then I might have to add advertisements
to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I don't want to have to do
that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and I think that a lot
of the members appreciate that too.
Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
operation of all these Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I finally got frustrated enough this weekend to ask a question of
anyone who has a good answer.
For grease guns, I went to the local farm and barn type store
and got a couple of what looked like pretty good guns.
But, while I've had good luck with the grease gun that I use
for my wheel bearings and nose swivel area, which I use a
different grease for, I have HORRIBLE luck with my grease
gun that I use with Aeroshell 6.
The gun that is giving me issues is basically this one:
http://www.mastertectools.net/image_atus/31004.jpg
It's got the loader fitting on top that I never use, and a bleed
pushbutton to purge air.
I tore it all apart this weekend again and it appears that
just a spring pushes the plunger up to force grease up to the top
section where if it enters a hole, squeezing the handle will
push a piston forward and inject the grease.
Stupid simple.
The issue mainly seems to be that Aeroshell 6 is just so
thick that it doesn't flow up into that cavity.
I was able to work around it this weekend by repeatedly
unscrewing the top a few threads, which would help
allow the spring to push grease up, then crank the top
back down on the gun. The added pressure on the grease
made it flow into the orifice and then it would pump.
But, I had to repeat this every pumping.
I'm about to throw this thing out the window. Is there
something I'm missing? (The seal on the plunger does
also seem to seal into the grease tube BTW...it's a
rubber sealed plunger head.)
Or does everyone have a problem with this thick
Aeroshell 6?
If someone has a great grease gun that works real well,
send me a link to it...I'd be happy to just buy one
if it will give me a much more enjoyable greasing
experience.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
You need to get all the air out of the upper chamber. Take the hose
off, squeeze the handle and hold it while you put your finger over the
outlet so air doesn't go back in. Repeat as often as necessary. Make
sure there isn't any air space in the hose, put it back on and it should
be OK.
Linn .... lots of foul language at grease guns.
>
> I finally got frustrated enough this weekend to ask a question of
> anyone who has a good answer.
>
> For grease guns, I went to the local farm and barn type store
> and got a couple of what looked like pretty good guns.
> But, while I've had good luck with the grease gun that I use
> for my wheel bearings and nose swivel area, which I use a
> different grease for, I have HORRIBLE luck with my grease
> gun that I use with Aeroshell 6.
>
> The gun that is giving me issues is basically this one:
> http://www.mastertectools.net/image_atus/31004.jpg
>
> It's got the loader fitting on top that I never use, and a bleed
> pushbutton to purge air.
>
> I tore it all apart this weekend again and it appears that
> just a spring pushes the plunger up to force grease up to the top
> section where if it enters a hole, squeezing the handle will
> push a piston forward and inject the grease.
> Stupid simple.
> The issue mainly seems to be that Aeroshell 6 is just so
> thick that it doesn't flow up into that cavity.
>
> I was able to work around it this weekend by repeatedly
> unscrewing the top a few threads, which would help
> allow the spring to push grease up, then crank the top
> back down on the gun. The added pressure on the grease
> made it flow into the orifice and then it would pump.
> But, I had to repeat this every pumping.
>
> I'm about to throw this thing out the window. Is there
> something I'm missing? (The seal on the plunger does
> also seem to seal into the grease tube BTW...it's a
> rubber sealed plunger head.)
> Or does everyone have a problem with this thick
> Aeroshell 6?
>
> If someone has a great grease gun that works real well,
> send me a link to it...I'd be happy to just buy one
> if it will give me a much more enjoyable greasing
> experience.
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
Are you talking about the fittings on the engine? Those would be in the
engine overhaul manual.
If you are talking about bolting the engine to the engine mount with the
shock disks between the two, that is in the plans.
Firewall forward section 1 page 5.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 10:26 AM, Carlos Trigo
wrote:
>
> Guys
>
> Since it is not in the Van's RV-10 manual, does anybody have a drawing
> that shows the hardware used to install the 4 engine mount bosses to the
> Lyco 540 engine?
> I suppose that I have to use 16 nuts + 16 flat washers + 16 star washers,
> but I want to be sure which, and in what order.
>
> On the other hand, what is to tool to use to tighten the 2 inner nuts of
> each of the 4 mount bosses?
> Specially the ones on the engine bottom?
>
> Best
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
Hi Kelly
I am talking about the fittings on the engine, each with 4 nuts, and I don't
have the engine overhaul manual...
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 28/11/2016, =C3-s 22:48, Kelly McMullen escreve
u:
> Are you talking about the fittings on the engine? Those would be in the en
gine overhaul manual.
> If you are talking about bolting the engine to the engine mount with the s
hock disks between the two, that is in the plans.
> Firewall forward section 1 page 5.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
>> On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 10:26 AM, Carlos Trigo wr
ote:
>>
>> Guys
>>
>> Since it is not in the Van's RV-10 manual, does anybody have a drawing th
at shows the hardware used to install the 4 engine mount bosses to the Lyco 5
40 engine?
>> I suppose that I have to use 16 nuts + 16 flat washers + 16 star washers,
but I want to be sure which, and in what order.
>>
>> On the other hand, what is to tool to use to tighten the 2 inner nuts of e
ach of the 4 mount bosses?
>> Specially the ones on the engine bottom?
>>
>> Best
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>> =========================
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.buildersboo
ks.com
>> p.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I'm guessing there's a problem in translation .....
Sounds like his question is about the ears that the isolation mounts
attach to.
I forget whether there are studs or bolts there.
Linn
On 11/28/2016 6:37 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
> Hi Kelly
>
> I am talking about the fittings on the engine, each with 4 nuts, and I
> don't have the engine overhaul manual...
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 28/11/2016, s 22:48, Kelly McMullen > escreveu:
>
>> Are you talking about the fittings on the engine? Those would be in
>> the engine overhaul manual.
>> If you are talking about bolting the engine to the engine mount with
>> the shock disks between the two, that is in the plans.
>> Firewall forward section 1 page 5.
>>
>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 10:26 AM, Carlos Trigo > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Guys
>>
>> Since it is not in the Van's RV-10 manual, does anybody have a
>> drawing that shows the hardware used to install the 4 engine
>> mount bosses to the Lyco 540 engine?
>> I suppose that I have to use 16 nuts + 16 flat washers + 16 star
>> washers, but I want to be sure which, and in what order.
>>
>> On the other hand, what is to tool to use to tighten the 2 inner
>> nuts of each of the 4 mount bosses?
>> Specially the ones on the engine bottom?
>>
>> Best
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>> ===================================
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>> w.buildersbooks.com <http://w.buildersbooks.com>"
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
>> p.com <http://p.com>" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
>> e.com <http://e.com>" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
>> " rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> <http://www.mrrace.com>
>> rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
That=99s right, I am talking about the =9Cears=9D that
the isolation rubber mounts attach to.
Each of these 4 =9Cears=9D are attached to the engine (which
has 4 studs) with 4 nuts and washers, and that=99s what I
don=99t know the order.
I suppose it=99s first the flat washer, then the star washer, then
the nut . Right?
Carlos
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Linn Walters
Enviada: Monday, November 28, 2016 11:47 PM
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine
I'm guessing there's a problem in translation .....
Sounds like his question is about the ears that the isolation mounts
attach to.
I forget whether there are studs or bolts there.
Linn
On 11/28/2016 6:37 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
Hi Kelly
I am talking about the fittings on the engine, each with 4 nuts, and I
don't have the engine overhaul manual...
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 28/11/2016, =C3-s 22:48, Kelly McMullen > escreveu:
Are you talking about the fittings on the engine? Those would be in the
engine overhaul manual.
If you are talking about bolting the engine to the engine mount with the
shock disks between the two, that is in the plans.
Firewall forward section 1 page 5.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 10:26 AM, Carlos Trigo > wrote:
>
Guys
Since it is not in the Van's RV-10 manual, does anybody have a drawing
that shows the hardware used to install the 4 engine mount bosses to the
Lyco 540 engine?
I suppose that I have to use 16 nuts + 16 flat washers + 16 star
washers, but I want to be sure which, and in what order.
On the other hand, what is to tool to use to tighten the 2 inner nuts of
each of the 4 mount bosses?
Specially the ones on the engine bottom?
Best
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
br> fts!)
r> > com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
w.buildersbooks.com <http://w.buildersbooks.com> " rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
p.com <http://p.com> " rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
e.com <http://e.com> " rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
<http://www.mrrace.com>
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Carlos,
I've searched the manual, no pictures of the "ear mounts", but basically "yes"
always install lock washers next to the nut. The purpose of the lock washer is
to grab the nut to keep it from backing off. Hope that addresses your issue.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463407#463407
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
I just took mine off today to attach a better ground path to the block. Mi
ne only had 2 studs per ear.
I need to check the torque in the manual to confirm it's 100% correct, but I
torqued the nuts to 15.5 lbs per Vans Section 5 torque specs.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 28, 2016, at 6:02 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> That=99s right, I am talking about the =9Cears=9D that t
he isolation rubber mounts attach to.
> Each of these 4 =9Cears=9D are attached to the engine (which h
as 4 studs) with 4 nuts and washers, and that=99s what I don=99t
know the order.
> I suppose it=99s first the flat washer, then the star washer, then t
he nut . Right?
>
> Carlos
>
> De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com] Em nome de Linn Walters
> Enviada: Monday, November 28, 2016 11:47 PM
> Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine
>
> I'm guessing there's a problem in translation .....
> Sounds like his question is about the ears that the isolation mounts attac
h to.
> I forget whether there are studs or bolts there.
> Linn
>
> On 11/28/2016 6:37 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
> Hi Kelly
>
> I am talking about the fittings on the engine, each with 4 nuts, and I don
't have the engine overhaul manual...
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 28/11/2016, =C3-s 22:48, Kelly McMullen escre
veu:
>
> Are you talking about the fittings on the engine? Those would be in the en
gine overhaul manual.
> If you are talking about bolting the engine to the engine mount with the s
hock disks between the two, that is in the plans.
> Firewall forward section 1 page 5.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 10:26 AM, Carlos Trigo wro
te:
>
> Guys
>
> Since it is not in the Van's RV-10 manual, does anybody have a drawing tha
t shows the hardware used to install the 4 engine mount bosses to the Lyco 5
40 engine?
> I suppose that I have to use 16 nuts + 16 flat washers + 16 star washers, b
ut I want to be sure which, and in what order.
>
> On the other hand, what is to tool to use to tighten the 2 inner nuts of e
ach of the 4 mount bosses?
> Specially the ones on the engine bottom?
>
> Best
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> =========================
> br> fts!)
> r> > com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.buildersbook
s.com
> p.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> =========================
> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
> =========================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> =========================
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 28, 2016, at 7:20 PM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
>
> Hey Carlos,
>
> I've searched the manual, no pictures of the "ear mounts", but basically "
yes" always install lock washers next to the nut. The purpose of the lock w
asher is to grab the nut to keep it from backing off. Hope that addresses y
our issue. Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Fly off completed !
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463407#463407
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Carlos,
Jesse's diagram is boss! Here's a picture from Tim's build. Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463410#463410
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv200510270006_175.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine |
I got back to the house tonight where I can see the Lycoming overhaul
manual. The correct torque for the 3/8" bolt is 300 in/lb.
My 'ears' only have 2 studs to put nuts on and they're 3/8. If you've got
4 studs, then I'm not sure what yours are. So here's the entire torque
limit chart in the manual if yours are different.
Phil
[image: Inline image 1]
On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 6:53 PM, Phillip Perry wrote
:
> I just took mine off today to attach a better ground path to the block.
> Mine only had 2 studs per ear.
>
> I need to check the torque in the manual to confirm it's 100% correct, bu
t
> I torqued the nuts to 15.5 lbs per Vans Section 5 torque specs.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 28, 2016, at 6:02 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> That=99s right, I am talking about the =9Cears=9D that
the isolation rubber
> mounts attach to.
>
> Each of these 4 =9Cears=9D are attached to the engine (which
has 4 studs) with
> 4 nuts and washers, and that=99s what I don=99t know the orde
r.
>
> I suppose it=99s first the flat washer, then the star washer, then
the nut
> . Right?
>
>
> Carlos
>
>
> *De:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com ] *Em nome de
*Linn
> Walters
> *Enviada:* Monday, November 28, 2016 11:47 PM
> *Para:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Assunto:* Re: RV10-List: Installing engine mount bosses to the engine
>
>
> I'm guessing there's a problem in translation .....
> Sounds like his question is about the ears that the isolation mounts
> attach to.
> I forget whether there are studs or bolts there.
> Linn
>
> On 11/28/2016 6:37 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Hi Kelly
>
>
> I am talking about the fittings on the engine, each with 4 nuts, and I
> don't have the engine overhaul manual...
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
> No dia 28/11/2016, =C3-s 22:48, Kelly McMullen escr
eveu:
>
> Are you talking about the fittings on the engine? Those would be in the
> engine overhaul manual.
>
> If you are talking about bolting the engine to the engine mount with the
> shock disks between the two, that is in the plans.
>
> Firewall forward section 1 page 5.
>
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 10:26 AM, Carlos Trigo
> wrote:
>
>
> Guys
>
> Since it is not in the Van's RV-10 manual, does anybody have a drawing
> that shows the hardware used to install the 4 engine mount bosses to the
> Lyco 540 engine?
> I suppose that I have to use 16 nuts + 16 flat washers + 16 star washers,
> but I want to be sure which, and in what order.
>
> On the other hand, what is to tool to use to tighten the 2 inner nuts of
> each of the 4 mount bosses?
> Specially the ones on the engine bottom?
>
> Best
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> ========================
===========
> br> fts!)
> r> > com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
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n
> ========================
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
Tim,
I fought the same problem for years - couldn't reliably burp all the air
out of the gun, so it would stop pumping.
Then somebody showed me that it is possible (at least on my gun, I
understand this is a common feature) to turn the plunger handle to just
the right location so it will engage with the grease puck, allowing the
operator to push on the end of the plunger handle and apply extra force
to the grease column. Then you can operate the lever (or use the air
burp fitting, if so equipped) to get a nice air-free column of grease
flowing.
In practice: rotate the plunger handle a little, push on it, see if
there is resistance. If not, turn more and try again. Repeat until the
plunger handle is locked to the grease puck.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 740 hrs
Tim Olson wrote on 11/28/2016 10:01 AM:
>
> I finally got frustrated enough this weekend to ask a question of
> anyone who has a good answer.
>
> For grease guns, I went to the local farm and barn type store
> and got a couple of what looked like pretty good guns.
> But, while I've had good luck with the grease gun that I use
> for my wheel bearings and nose swivel area, which I use a
> different grease for, I have HORRIBLE luck with my grease
> gun that I use with Aeroshell 6.
>
> The gun that is giving me issues is basically this one:
> http://www.mastertectools.net/image_atus/31004.jpg
>
> It's got the loader fitting on top that I never use, and a bleed
> pushbutton to purge air.
>
> I tore it all apart this weekend again and it appears that
> just a spring pushes the plunger up to force grease up to the top
> section where if it enters a hole, squeezing the handle will
> push a piston forward and inject the grease.
> Stupid simple.
> The issue mainly seems to be that Aeroshell 6 is just so
> thick that it doesn't flow up into that cavity.
>
> I was able to work around it this weekend by repeatedly
> unscrewing the top a few threads, which would help
> allow the spring to push grease up, then crank the top
> back down on the gun. The added pressure on the grease
> made it flow into the orifice and then it would pump.
> But, I had to repeat this every pumping.
>
> I'm about to throw this thing out the window. Is there
> something I'm missing? (The seal on the plunger does
> also seem to seal into the grease tube BTW...it's a
> rubber sealed plunger head.)
> Or does everyone have a problem with this thick
> Aeroshell 6?
>
> If someone has a great grease gun that works real well,
> send me a link to it...I'd be happy to just buy one
> if it will give me a much more enjoyable greasing
> experience.
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just Two Days Left! - Still Behind... |
Dear Listers,
There are just two more days left in this years List Fund Raiser. We are still
way behind last year in terms of the number of contributions and
total contribution amount. I really want to keep providing these services to the
homebuilt community, but it take resources. Since there's no
advertising budget or deep pockets to keep the operation a float, its solely your
generosity during the Fund Raiser that keeps things going. Please
make a Contribution today.
If you've been putting off showing your support for the Lists, now is the time
to do it!
Make a contribution with a Credit Card or though PayPal at that Matronics Contribution
web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a check in the mail:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you in advance for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Thanks to you guys who replied on my grease gun question.
What I did was this: I purchased a new Lincoln 1134 gun,
that runs about $40. It was reviewed and rated pretty
high and is supposed to have a pretty heavy duty spring.
I definitely could be not getting all the air out of it.
Given that there's a relief button on top, this SHOULD
be pretty easy to do. But I think the root cause of
the issue is that the Aeroshell 6 is just so thick that
the spring isn't enough to get it to flow up into the
gun, even to release air. Being in Wisconsin with
temps in the 30's doesn't help, although I did try
to warm the gun with my heater last week.
Also, I did read your thing, Tim, and after tearing
apart my gun, there definitely wasn't any handle
orientation that was possible on my existing gun.
It was a straight shaft that just slips thru 2
plunger items. One is a backing plate/stem for
the rubber plunger, which keeps the plunger
level, and the other is the rubber plunger itself.
Above that it's just a flat washer and cotter pin.
So nothing that you can twist to make any difference.
The grease isn't slipping past the plunger, either.
So really the only thing that would make the
grease not be burpable is if it were just too thick
for the plunger spring to force upwards. That's why
I just went for a new gun. With the new gun, I'll
burp it out well and see how it works, and report
back. I'll tear it apart first. Maybe I'll even
tear them both apart and show internal photos. If the
new gun works well, it may help others to document it.
My old gun I'll relegate to using a different, less
thick grease, for just doing wheel bearings and
chassis stuff at home.
More to come in a week or so.
Tim
On 11/28/2016 10:12 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> I fought the same problem for years - couldn't reliably burp all the air
> out of the gun, so it would stop pumping.
>
> Then somebody showed me that it is possible (at least on my gun, I
> understand this is a common feature) to turn the plunger handle to just
> the right location so it will engage with the grease puck, allowing the
> operator to push on the end of the plunger handle and apply extra force
> to the grease column. Then you can operate the lever (or use the air
> burp fitting, if so equipped) to get a nice air-free column of grease
> flowing.
>
> In practice: rotate the plunger handle a little, push on it, see if
> there is resistance. If not, turn more and try again. Repeat until the
> plunger handle is locked to the grease puck.
>
> Tim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again
- 53! :-) But it also means that it's that last official day of the Matronics
Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about picking up one of those
really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in
support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running
and I don't ever forget it.
The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Installing the "Red cube" |
Guys
Those of you who installed the fuel flow sensor (aka the "red cube") below the
engine, between the throttle body and the fuel distribution "spider", you had
to order a small fire sleeved fuel line, right?
Can you please tell me where did you order it, and the specifications (length,
diameter and type & size of the fittings) of that extra fuel line?
Thanks
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing the "Red cube" |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
You'll need two lines, one from the servo to redcube and the other from the redcube
to the spider. The dimensions depend on how and where you are mounting the
redcube. Some fuel line makers can chop your original fuel line in two and put
two new ends on them. If you already have your fuel line that might be a good
option.
I got integral firesleeved hoses from Stratoflex, but I think the ceramic fibers
in the red firesleeve keeps the hose a bit cooler than the brown integral silicone.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463602#463602
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing the "Red cube" |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I have lots of JIC fittings for the braided steel/teflon hose. So, I
cut the kit hose from the mechanical fuel pump to the fuel servo. Bad
move. The teflon liner wasn't the correct size for my fittings so I
made up two hoses and used the firesleeve from the kit hose. I mounted
my FF sender on a plate attached to the lower, fwd engine mount tube
with Adel clamps. I wanted as much straight in/out as I could get.
Different from the vertical hose you want, but the idea is the same.
You can get the braided/teflon hose with 37* fittings at most any
hydraulic shop ..... tell them it's for a race car or airboat .... they
don't like to hear 'airplane'.
Linn
On 11/30/2016 1:39 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Guys
>
> Those of you who installed the fuel flow sensor (aka the "red cube") below the
engine, between the throttle body and the fuel distribution "spider", you had
to order a small fire sleeved fuel line, right?
>
> Can you please tell me where did you order it, and the specifications (length,
diameter and type & size of the fittings) of that extra fuel line?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing the "Red cube" |
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
I made my own two hoses (servo to cube, cube to spider):
4 ea Eaton Hose Fitting F66000-4 (ACS part 05-01320)
Aeroquip clamps for hose ends, and to clamp firesleeve to red cube -
Aeroquip Clamp 900591B-2C, -1C, and -3C.
Aeroquip Firesleeve AE102-8 (5 feet)
Aeroquip Firesleeve AE102-24 (1 foot)
Aeroquip Hose #666-4 (6 feet).
Aeroquip publishes instructions on how to assemble.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 740 hrs
Carlos Trigo wrote on 11/30/2016 10:39 AM:
>
> Guys
>
> Those of you who installed the fuel flow sensor (aka the "red cube") below the
engine, between the throttle body and the fuel distribution "spider", you had
to order a small fire sleeved fuel line, right?
>
> Can you please tell me where did you order it, and the specifications (length,
diameter and type & size of the fittings) of that extra fuel line?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Installing the "Red cube" |
Thanks a lot Tim
That's exactly the information I needed!
Cheers
Carlos
-----Mensagem original-----
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Tim Lewis
Enviada: Friday, December 2, 2016 3:54 AM
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Installing the "Red cube"
I made my own two hoses (servo to cube, cube to spider):
4 ea Eaton Hose Fitting F66000-4 (ACS part 05-01320) Aeroquip clamps for
hose ends, and to clamp firesleeve to red cube - Aeroquip Clamp 900591B-2C,
-1C, and -3C.
Aeroquip Firesleeve AE102-8 (5 feet)
Aeroquip Firesleeve AE102-24 (1 foot)
Aeroquip Hose #666-4 (6 feet).
Aeroquip publishes instructions on how to assemble.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 740 hrs
Carlos Trigo wrote on 11/30/2016 10:39 AM:
>
> Guys
>
> Those of you who installed the fuel flow sensor (aka the "red cube") below
the engine, between the throttle body and the fuel distribution "spider",
you had to order a small fire sleeved fuel line, right?
>
> Can you please tell me where did you order it, and the specifications
(length, diameter and type & size of the fittings) of that extra fuel line?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Built-in Oxygen (Mountain High) |
For those of you who have installed the EDS-4ip system from Mountain High, have
any of you found a method to shove the tubing over the barbs fully?
I've never given birth to a child, personally, but I'm pretty sure this is what
it's like.
Hopefully there is a well-known lubricant out there that won't damage the electronics
inside the distribution units.
Or perhaps you can give me a tip to become more dilated. Either way, something
has to give.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built-in Oxygen (Mountain High) |
I don't have that system but I've always slightly warmed the tubing with a heat
gun....carefully. I bought some of that tubing type and I think that would help
a lot. Don't warm it too far back or it gets too flexible on the pushing
area.
Tim
> On Dec 2, 2016, at 10:35 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>
> For those of you who have installed the EDS-4ip system from Mountain High, have
any of you found a method to shove the tubing over the barbs fully?
>
> I've never given birth to a child, personally, but I'm pretty sure this is what
it's like.
>
> Hopefully there is a well-known lubricant out there that won't damage the electronics
inside the distribution units.
>
> Or perhaps you can give me a tip to become more dilated. Either way, something
has to give.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gautier, Thomas N (3262)" <thomas.n.gautier(at)jpl.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Loehle aircraft and airplane paint |
RV-10ers,
After some years of building and lurking on the list I am ready to pain
t my =9210. I have been using Loehle Aircraft primers for the fiberglass pa
rts and I would like to do the same for painting the metal. However I have
been unsuccessful in contacting Loehle Aircraft by telephone nor e-mail aft
er repeated attempts over the last two weeks. Does anyone know if something
has happened to Loehle Aircraft?
Also, do you listers have suggestions (of course you do) for a different
, easily usable paint system in case I can=92t get more Loehle material?
Regards,
Nick Gautier
N363TG reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built-in Oxygen (Mountain High) |
That's the secret. The heat worked.
We don't plan on having any more kids. But just in case we do, I'm going to keep
a spare heat gun behind the seat of the truck.
It's way cheaper and faster than medication....
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 2, 2016, at 10:58 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I don't have that system but I've always slightly warmed the tubing with a heat
gun....carefully. I bought some of that tubing type and I think that would
help a lot. Don't warm it too far back or it gets too flexible on the pushing
area.
> Tim
>
>> On Dec 2, 2016, at 10:35 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>>
>> For those of you who have installed the EDS-4ip system from Mountain High, have
any of you found a method to shove the tubing over the barbs fully?
>>
>> I've never given birth to a child, personally, but I'm pretty sure this is what
it's like.
>>
>> Hopefully there is a well-known lubricant out there that won't damage the electronics
inside the distribution units.
>>
>> Or perhaps you can give me a tip to become more dilated. Either way, something
has to give.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>
>
October 13, 2016 - December 02, 2016
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-mj