RV10-Archive.digest.vol-mr
June 23, 2017 - August 11, 2017
>>>> where you closed the gap?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
>> ator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
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>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Bruce, if you will recall the Z channel that is used for stringers in
the tail cone. I used that, cut one curve off, to have thin, 1/2 right
angles. I cut to width of the louvers. then used Gorilla brand duct tape
to tape them in place, just as a temporary trial. I noticed about 20-30
degree drop in CHT.
On 6/23/2017 3:37 PM, Bruce Hoppe wrote:
>
> Kelly,
> I have looked at the Anti-Splat cowl flap. What caught my interest is your comment
about "putting 1/2" deflector in front of the louvers". Please describe
this deflector in a little more detail. If you have a photo, that would be
very helpful.
>
> My main concern has been high CHTs, especially on cylinder #6 on initial climb
out. It will usually go above 400F especially in the summer in TN, then drops
under 400. At cruise, all CHTs typically are 350-380F or lower depending how
far LOP, with #6 still being the hottest. I normally have a 30F CHT range
between the hottest land coolest cylinders. One theory is that the air for the
oil cooler is diverting cooling air from #6.
>
> I recently reinstalled the air deflector in front of cyl#2 and put RTV between
the cylinders. That helped the temperature spread only a little, but every
little bit helps.
>
> It helped to balance my injectors, including on climb out. Now, all EGTs peak
within 0.1GPH. Typically, no problems with oil temp. I have an adjustable
damper on the oil cooler, but it only lowers #6 CHT 1 or 2 degrees when I partially
close it to raise oil temp by 20 degrees.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bruce Hoppe
> RV-10 N720JH
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
> Bruce Hoppe
>
> Sent from my iPad
>> On Jun 23, 2017, at 3:39 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Very interesting. I replaced my louvers in front of the exhaust pipes with the
Anti-Splat cowl flaps. This was first supported by putting 1/2" deflector in
front of the louvers, which made a noticeable improvement.
>> with the cowl flaps, temps are a bit lower, maybe as good as with the deflector
in front of louvers(which would have been a lot cheaper and easier to stick
with). However, where my oil temps had been fine, now mine are like yours. I
did the flashing removal, but haven't tried the RTV yet. I just need to get my
cockpit flow back to where it was flying the Mooney....cowl flaps open for takeoff
and climb. Level off, and then close cowl flaps. Open them up as come into
pattern to keep CHTs from climbing again. I may eventually decide to install
one of the louvers I removed, right under the oil cooler.
>> Your IO-390 cylinders should be perfect...they should be perfect. I don't know
if you have priced them, but they are almost double the price of regular 360
angle valve cylinders.
>>
>>> On 6/23/2017 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>> I didn't really have a good way to tell, sorry. The problem is, when I attacked
the
>>> CHT issue, I did everything at once, so I can't say that one thing was
>>> far better than any other. The Cylinder flashing issue was a definite
>>> problem though...you could just see it. Funny that my IO-390 cylinders
>>> from Lycoming didn't need any work at all. Maybe these days they
>>> do a better job, or maybe they do a better job than ECI did.
>>> My real remaining thing I'd some day like to improve is Oil temps.
>>> Interestingly, it used to be my CHT's that were the issue, not oil temps.
>>> Then after fixing the CHT's, now if there is anything that limits me
>>> from climbs on hot days it's oil temps. I set my alarm at 216F to come
>>> on and get me to do something. I don't ever let it get over 225F
>>> without great reason. I may have seen 235F one or two times in
>>> 1250 hours. By keeping speeds of 125kts in climb I can almost
>>> do whatever I want, but I would prefer to be able to have my oil
>>> temps stay under 210F even in 115kt climbs...and always be
>>> in the 190's when straight and level.
>>> I may just have to get into a small cowl mod to add an extra exit
>>> scoop or something under that oil cooler. It's not a highly pressing
>>> issue, but would be nice to deal with for any flights out West in
>>> the warm months, mainly.
>>> Tim
>>>> On 6/23/2017 3:13 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I had good luck with one of my 3/32 (#40) drill bits, 6" long. Just made multiple
passes and then worked it back and forth somewhat. I can't say I have
seen significant difference, but with OAT around 100 for 9 am takeoff, and 80
at 6500 and 70 at 9500..I'll have to wait for some more normal temps to compare.
>>>> Tim, did you notice much benefit from the RTV between the cylinders, where
you closed the gap?
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
I was concerned about high CHT & Oil temps in local RV10s here so I was very lucky
to get some details from Deems about his mod when I was fitting my engine,
I took his idea a bit further and I'm pleased to say that it has worked out
extremely well. I can keep CHT under 350 and oil at 180. (we have mid 30 to 40*C
conditions at times) As the pics show I added an intake for the oil cooler
to the bottom cowl, a manifold then takes the air to the left of the front wheel
slot (1/2" below the fab) and then via a 4" scat to the vertically mounted
standard oil filter. Air is regulated by a push/pull butterfly valve at the oil
cooler (Not visible) and exhausts out of the oil cooler couple inches from
the side of the cowl. No air is bled off the top of the engine so all is available
for CHT cooling. CHTs are even on all cylinders. I didn't fit the flimsy
louvres or cowl flaps but installed letterbox vents on both sides. I did fit
a "cowl flap" on the side of the cowl next to the oil cooler because I didn't
know if the air flow through the cooler would be enough, but this hasn't been
needed so I've now permently fixed it shut. One downside to the mod is that
the scat hose must be removed before taking the bottom cowl off, not a big deal,
the scat is a push fit into the manifold and is secured by hand with a -3
bolt into a nut plate. Anyway, not really about CHT flashing but related to the
cooling discussion. Cheers from Western Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470436#470436
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1215_208.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1212_397.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear leg fairing - tip |
I've got 7.5 hours on the plane and about 2 weeks ago I decided to take it down
for a bit to put the pants and fairings on.
That nose leg fairing was a bear for me. The pin just didn't want to slide into
the hinge halves. And when I did get it sliding, keeping the two halves nested
wasn't easy..... especially the further down it went.
Then it dawned on me.... I could take another hinge pin and slide it up from
the bottom as far as I could get it to align that bottom half. While at the
same time inserting the pin front the top.
I couldn't push the alignment pin out with the top pin, but I could pull the alignment
pin out and inch or two at a time and then chase it with the top pin.
It's still not super slick to slide in, but it sure did take away the frustration
and that's 99% of the battle IMO.
Just sharing so others might use it later on to fit their fairings. Nose wheel
pant has to be removed to do it.
Worked well.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Home <bdgillespie215(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing - tip |
I use Boelube (solid) on my pins for the same reason. One of my cowl pins is tight
and the lube helps with the effort. Just another option to help.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 24, 2017, at 1:23 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>
> I've got 7.5 hours on the plane and about 2 weeks ago I decided to take it down
for a bit to put the pants and fairings on.
>
> That nose leg fairing was a bear for me. The pin just didn't want to slide into
the hinge halves. And when I did get it sliding, keeping the two halves nested
wasn't easy..... especially the further down it went.
>
> Then it dawned on me.... I could take another hinge pin and slide it up from
the bottom as far as I could get it to align that bottom half. While at the
same time inserting the pin front the top.
>
> I couldn't push the alignment pin out with the top pin, but I could pull the
alignment pin out and inch or two at a time and then chase it with the top pin.
>
> It's still not super slick to slide in, but it sure did take away the frustration
and that's 99% of the battle IMO.
>
> Just sharing so others might use it later on to fit their fairings. Nose wheel
pant has to be removed to do it.
>
> Worked well.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
Thanks for all of the advice on the flashing! This list is a great
resource.
David
On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 11:53 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I found a small thin file at our local farm store that fits nicely if the
> gap isn't completely closed.
> I song have the info but it was maybe 6-8" long and maybe at most 1/2"
> wide and about 1/16" thick or so. That worked well.
> Tim
>
> > On Jun 23, 2017, at 11:38 AM, David Carr wrote:
> >
> > Hi list,
> >
> > What are your favorite techniques/tools for removing the cylinder head
> flashing (near the top spark plug)?
> >
> > So far I've discovered Tim's approach using an extension drill like an
> end mill and also a suggestion to try modifying a hacksaw rod blade into
> long rotary burr.
> >
> > Thanks for your input,
> > David
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AOG in Florida--Need an assist |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
Folks the Display Unit for my Vertical Power VP-200 has died, at least partially.
If I cycle the power I can see the very very faint VP-200 startup logo and
the startup systems check annunciations (they are so faint as to be illegible
but I know what they are) but then a blank screen with the Soft Key label boxes
barely visible but the labels themselves are illegible. The DU seems to still
be controlling power pins and the control unit and the switch panel all seem
to be functioning fine although it's impossible know 100% for sure without
a full-up display.
Does anyone have a Display unit I could borrow/rent/buy, at least to get me home?
I'll be here at Pompano Beach until July 1st and across the state over in
Fort Myers until July 9th (so I'd like to get it fixed by then) I'll pay for
overnight shipping. Email me at tsts4us AT gmail dot com or text/call me 703-595-5453.
Thanks!
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470466#470466
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenard Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOG in Florida--Need an assist |
Hey Todd,
I don't have a VP-200 screen but I live close by at 64FA. I'll be home on the 28th
or so. I have a bunch of tools, if you need anything let me know.
Sounds like the backlight in your screen is out. If you can source the lcd screen
or even just the backlight I can repair it for you.
Lenny
> On Jun 25, 2017, at 4:17 PM, tsts4 wrote:
>
>
> Folks the Display Unit for my Vertical Power VP-200 has died, at least partially.
If I cycle the power I can see the very very faint VP-200 startup logo and
the startup systems check annunciations (they are so faint as to be illegible
but I know what they are) but then a blank screen with the Soft Key label boxes
barely visible but the labels themselves are illegible. The DU seems to
still be controlling power pins and the control unit and the switch panel all
seem to be functioning fine although it's impossible know 100% for sure without
a full-up display.
>
> Does anyone have a Display unit I could borrow/rent/buy, at least to get me home?
I'll be here at Pompano Beach until July 1st and across the state over in
Fort Myers until July 9th (so I'd like to get it fixed by then) I'll pay for
overnight shipping. Email me at tsts4us AT gmail dot com or text/call me 703-595-5453.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
> RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470466#470466
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOG in Florida--Need an assist |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Lenny -- if I can't a new DU or backlight I might need some help with some
tools and 14-20 ga wire as I'm already working a worst case back-up plan to
bypass the CU and get power to all of the necessary systems required to safely
get home.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470471#470471
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOG in Florida--Need an assist |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
Lenny,
If I open the DU's case, is the backlight or screen part numbers something I could
identify without an electronic's background?
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470474#470474
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenard Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOG in Florida--Need an assist |
The backlight is usually inside the lcd frame, on the side. Try to get the part
number from the LCD then you can see the size of the backlight, and order an
aftermarket replacement.
There's a remote possibility of the inverter being bad, which is the driver of
the backlight. Usually the backlight burns out though.
Lenny
> On Jun 25, 2017, at 7:03 PM, tsts4 wrote:
>
>
> Lenny,
> If I open the DU's case, is the backlight or screen part numbers something I
could identify without an electronic's background?
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
> RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470474#470474
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VP-200 Export Software Settings |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
Can someone tell me on a VP-200 from the SETUP Menu, after you scroll and select
"Software and Settings", which soft-key is the one labeled" "EXPORT"?
Mark Olson is sending me his backup DU but it will save me a bunch of time if I
can use a thumb drive to configure his DU to my system. Unfortunately, I don't
have my settings file with me (just the manuals and my LPW). So I'm going
to basically attempt an export in the blind but I need to know which SK is the
one for the export as the manuals don't have a screen shot for he Software and
settings page.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470490#470490
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Export Software Settings |
Plug in the new DU and go through the menus on it then plug your old unit in and
follow the same process.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 26, 2017, at 6:37 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
>
> Can someone tell me on a VP-200 from the SETUP Menu, after you scroll and select
"Software and Settings", which soft-key is the one labeled" "EXPORT"?
>
> Mark Olson is sending me his backup DU but it will save me a bunch of time if
I can use a thumb drive to configure his DU to my system. Unfortunately, I don't
have my settings file with me (just the manuals and my LPW). So I'm going
to basically attempt an export in the blind but I need to know which SK is the
one for the export as the manuals don't have a screen shot for he Software
and settings page.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
> RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470490#470490
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Export Software Settings |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote:
> Plug in the new DU and go through the menus on it then plug your old unit in
and follow the same process.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> > On Jun 26, 2017, at 6:37 AM, tsts4 wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Can someone tell me on a VP-200 from the SETUP Menu, after you scroll and
select "Software and Settings", which soft-key is the one labeled" "EXPORT"?
> >
> > Mark Olson is sending me his backup DU but it will save me a bunch of time
if I can use a thumb drive to configure his DU to my system. Unfortunately,
I don't have my settings file with me (just the manuals and my LPW). So I'm going
to basically attempt an export in the blind but I need to know which SK is
the one for the export as the manuals don't have a screen shot for he Software
and settings page.
> >
> > --------
> > Todd Stovall
> > aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
> > RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470490#470490
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Yes that will work but I was hoping to do this while I've got time to kill before
the spare DU arrives.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470493#470493
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Export Software Settings |
Todd,
Try holding a flashlight up close to the screen. You might be able to read
it.
David
On Mon, Jun 26, 2017 at 8:10 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
>
> jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote:
> > Plug in the new DU and go through the menus on it then plug your old
> unit in and follow the same process.
> >
> > Jesse Saint
> > Saint Aviation, Inc.
> > 352-427-0285
> > jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >
> > > On Jun 26, 2017, at 6:37 AM, tsts4 wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Can someone tell me on a VP-200 from the SETUP Menu, after you scroll
> and select "Software and Settings", which soft-key is the one labeled"
> "EXPORT"?
> > >
> > > Mark Olson is sending me his backup DU but it will save me a bunch of
> time if I can use a thumb drive to configure his DU to my system.
> Unfortunately, I don't have my settings file with me (just the manuals and
> my LPW). So I'm going to basically attempt an export in the blind but I
> need to know which SK is the one for the export as the manuals don't have a
> screen shot for he Software and settings page.
> > >
> > > --------
> > > Todd Stovall
> > > aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
> > > RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470490#470490
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> Yes that will work but I was hoping to do this while I've got time to kill
> before the spare DU arrives.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
> RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470493#470493
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Eclipse travel |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Update to my post, above. Grant County airport (John Day, OR) has sold out all
its parking spaces. The airport will be closed around the eclipse to all but those
with a reserved tie down spot.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470529#470529
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Halmos <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Auto Response: RV10-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/27/17 |
Thank you for your email! Unfortunately, I will checking email VERY sporadically
but I will get back to you when I am able. Thanks, David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)u.washington.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Eclipse travel |
Yet another reason that some of us who live within an hour or so of RV-10 flying
time from the path of totality are planning to lift off about 1.5 hrs before
the event and loiter on the totality centerline at 13.5k or 15.5k for the event.
Unless there is one of those pesky 25,000 ft. overcasts in which case we
save the fuel bucks and watch it on TV.
Good to have ADS-B out and in installed; expecting a lot of traffic on the display
that day, but hopefully not too much in the mid-teen altitudes.
-Dan Masys
Sequim, WA
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Eclipse travel
> From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
>
>
> Update to my post, above. Grant County airport (John Day, OR) has sold out all
> its parking spaces. The airport will be closed around the eclipse to all but
those
> with a reserved tie down spot.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOG in Florida--Need an assist |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
We're back in business thanks to Mark Olson. Not only did he graciously ship me
his backup screen and provided me with instructions to assist me in exporting
my config file, he's extending me the loan of his DU through Oshkosh if I can't
get mine repaired in time. I can't thank him enough!!!!!
This is a beautiful sight:
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470584#470584
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Export Software Settings |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
digidocs wrote:
> Todd,
>
> Try holding a flashlight up close to the screen. You might be able to read it.
>
>
> David
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 26, 2017 at 8:10 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > jesse(at)saintaviation.co (http://saintaviation.co) wrote:
> > > Plug in the new DU and go through the menus on it then plug your old unit
in and follow the same process.
> > >
> > > Jesse Saint
> > > Saint Aviation, Inc.
> > > 352-427-0285 (tel:352-427-0285)
> > > jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPad
> > >
> > >
> > > > On Jun 26, 2017, at 6:37 AM, tsts4 wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Can someone tell me on a VP-200 from the SETUP Menu, after you scroll
and select "Software and Settings", which soft-key is the one labeled" "EXPORT"?
> > > >
> > > > Mark Olson is sending me his backup DU but it will save me a bunch of
time if I can use a thumb drive to configure his DU to my system. Unfortunately,
I don't have my settings file with me (just the manuals and my LPW). So I'm
going to basically attempt an export in the blind but I need to know which SK
is the one for the export as the manuals don't have a screen shot for he Software
and settings page.
> > > >
> > > > --------
> > > > Todd Stovall
> > > > aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
> > > > RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Read this topic online here:
> > > >
> > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470490#470490 (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470490#470490)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Yes that will work but I was hoping to do this while I've got time to kill
before the spare DU arrives.
> >
> > --------
> > Todd Stovall
> > aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
> > RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470493#470493 (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470493#470493)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ===================================
> > -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> > ===================================
> > FORUMS -
> > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> > ===================================
> > WIKI -
> > errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> > ===================================
> > b Site -
> > -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> > ===================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Thanks David -- the flashlight trick worked, at least enough for me to feel my
way through the menu options and get what I needed.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470585#470585
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Ever since Dynon came out with the Y/D option for the Rv10, i have been interested.
As I have investigated the prospect, however, there is something a bit odd
about the issue that I would like to clarify before I commit.
Dynon openly markets their part of the package for both the 10 and the 14.
Dynon sells the servo and the control arm kit for the package and tells you that
you have to get the "bracket kit" from Van's.
This is the part where it seems a little strange. When you contact Van's about
a bracket kit for the yaw damper, they will tell you that they have a kit and
that it sells for $160. That in its own right seems high by Van's standards for
a servo bracket when their other servo brackets sell for $118, but that's not
the primary issue. What seems odd to me is that Van's will tell you that the
bracket kit they sell is for the RV14. Hmmm. They will tell you that the bracket
"should" be able to be used for a 10 "with some modification". If you ask
if the are instructions included for the 10 modification they emphatically say
no.
This doesn't seem right to me. There are at least 10 times the rv10's out there
than 14's. Because of the whole theory of yaw dampening anyway, it seems like
the bulk of the benefit would be for the rear pax in the 10. Even as the most
expensive model in the fleet, it stands to reason that the market potential for
the 10 is greater for the product.
It seems to me that if extensive design and testing work were done to create this
for the 14, there must be some artificial reason that it isn't being openly
marketed "openly" for the 10.
The whole process just seems outside of Van's usual superb way of design and marketing.
Like there is something holding them back but they can't say what it
is. Hopefully it is something innocuous, but I would like to know before taking
the plunge.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470592#470592
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I installed it anyway
after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying with ti for
over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy to report everything
worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10 is apparently the
same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works great, but I do have to
admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon tiller arm (150.00), and new
servo. It added about four pounds to the plane which was not a huge deal for me.
Bottom line every thing install pretty easy....the Vans bracket kit essentially
bolts onto existing bell crank brackets and you will have to run new ground
and power to new servo but can share serial and data lines with elevator servo
and then you are good to go and a short calibration procedure.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
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PT09PQoKCgo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Thanks Mhealy.
Nice to know that it's an easy adaptation. Still seems odd that they can't remove
the (useless to 10 owners) electrical connection stuff, reduce the price accordingly,
and create a bona fide 10 kit. I would hate to think that they see
selling unnecessary material as a revenue generator.
Hope your tail is less swishy in the bumps.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470610#470610
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
Historically on the the RV-10 the consensus is that it isn't needed.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Linn Walters
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2017 11:21:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
Interesting discussion. Does anyone really need it?
I plan on using a RC servo hooked to trim hinge on rudder (because I can) .
.... and had not heard of yaw damper .....
Linn
Sent from Samsung tablet cruising on the Allure Of The Seas.
-------- Original message --------
>From mhealydds <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: 06/30/2017 7:42 AM (GMT-05:00)
To rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I installed it
anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying with
ti for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy to re
port everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10 is a
pparently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works great,
but I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon tiller arm
(150.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the plane which was
not a huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install pretty easy....the
Vans bracket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell crank brackets and y
ou will have to run new ground and power to new servo but can share serial
and data lines with elevator servo and then you are good to go and a short
calibration procedure.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
Needed? No.
Awesome? Heck yes!
I decided to install a yaw dampener, because I feared cutting my
beautifully straight rudder to accommodate an electric trim tab. It was
relatively inexpensive ($800) compared to the rest of the gizmos on the
plane and has been amazing in use.
Last week we encountered some really bad turbulence coming into Houston and
the ball stayed centered no matter how much we we're getting tossed around.
In the end, this falls into the personal preference realm.
If I were to build another -10 I would do the yaw dampener hands down.
Shannon
On Jun 30, 2017 12:08 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
> Historically on the the RV-10 the consensus is that it isn't needed.
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com matronics.com> on behalf of Linn Walters
> *Sent:* Friday, June 30, 2017 11:21:54 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>
> Interesting discussion. Does anyone really need it?
> I plan on using a RC servo hooked to trim hinge on rudder (because I can)
> ..... and had not heard of yaw damper .....
> Linn
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet cruising on the Allure Of The Seas.
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> >From mhealydds <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
> Date: 06/30/2017 7:42 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>
>
> I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I installed
> it anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying
> with ti for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy
> to report everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10
> is apparently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works
> great, but I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon
> tiller arm (150.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the plane
> which was not a huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install pretty
> easy....the Vans bracket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell crank
> brackets and you will have to run new ground and power to new servo but can
> share serial and data lines with elevator servo and then you are good to go
> and a short calibration procedure.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
>
>
> ==========
> Email Forum -
> ==========
> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> ==========
> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> ==========
> p; - List Contribution Web Site -
> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
Does the yaw damper take care of rudder trim without the automatic trim box?
On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 12:53 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
> Needed? No.
>
> Awesome? Heck yes!
>
> I decided to install a yaw dampener, because I feared cutting my
> beautifully straight rudder to accommodate an electric trim tab. It was
> relatively inexpensive ($800) compared to the rest of the gizmos on the
> plane and has been amazing in use.
>
> Last week we encountered some really bad turbulence coming into Houston
> and the ball stayed centered no matter how much we we're getting tossed
> around.
>
> In the end, this falls into the personal preference realm.
>
> If I were to build another -10 I would do the yaw dampener hands down.
>
> Shannon
>
> On Jun 30, 2017 12:08 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>
>> Historically on the the RV-10 the consensus is that it isn't needed.
>>
>> Get Outlook for iOS
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <
>> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Linn Walters <
>> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 30, 2017 11:21:54 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>
>> Interesting discussion. Does anyone really need it?
>> I plan on using a RC servo hooked to trim hinge on rudder (because I can)
>> ..... and had not heard of yaw damper .....
>> Linn
>>
>> Sent from Samsung tablet cruising on the Allure Of The Seas.
>>
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> >From mhealydds <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
>> Date: 06/30/2017 7:42 AM (GMT-05:00)
>> To rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>
>>
>>
>> I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I installed
>> it anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying
>> with ti for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy
>> to report everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10
>> is apparently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works
>> great, but I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon
>> tiller arm (150.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the plane
>> which was not a huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install pretty
>> easy....the Vans bracket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell crank
>> brackets and you will have to run new ground and power to new servo but can
>> share serial and data lines with elevator servo and then you are good to go
>> and a short calibration procedure.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> Email Forum -
>> ==========
>> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>> ==========
>> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
>> ==========
>> p; - List Contribution Web Site -
>> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
--
Thanks,
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
It works independently of the roll auto trim. At least I'd does on the
trutrak system.
Shannon
On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 1:47 PM Kevin Belue wrote:
> Does the yaw damper take care of rudder trim without the automatic trim
> box?
>
> On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 12:53 PM, Shannon Hicks
> wrote:
>
>> Needed? No.
>>
>> Awesome? Heck yes!
>>
>> I decided to install a yaw dampener, because I feared cutting my
>> beautifully straight rudder to accommodate an electric trim tab. It was
>> relatively inexpensive ($800) compared to the rest of the gizmos on the
>> plane and has been amazing in use.
>>
>> Last week we encountered some really bad turbulence coming into Houston
>> and the ball stayed centered no matter how much we we're getting tossed
>> around.
>>
>> In the end, this falls into the personal preference realm.
>>
>> If I were to build another -10 I would do the yaw dampener hands down.
>>
>> Shannon
>>
>> On Jun 30, 2017 12:08 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>>
>>> Historically on the the RV-10 the consensus is that it isn't needed.
>>>
>>> Get Outlook for iOS
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <
>>> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Linn Walters <
>>> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
>>> *Sent:* Friday, June 30, 2017 11:21:54 AM
>>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>>
>>> Interesting discussion. Does anyone really need it?
>>> I plan on using a RC servo hooked to trim hinge on rudder (because I
>>> can) ..... and had not heard of yaw damper .....
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> Sent from Samsung tablet cruising on the Allure Of The Seas.
>>>
>>>
>>> -------- Original message --------
>>> >From mhealydds <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
>>> Date: 06/30/2017 7:42 AM (GMT-05:00)
>>> To rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I installed
>>> it anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying
>>> with ti for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy
>>> to report everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10
>>> is apparently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works
>>> great, but I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon
>>> tiller arm (150.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the plane
>>> which was not a huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install pretty
>>> easy....the Vans bracket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell crank
>>> brackets and you will have to run new ground and power to new servo but can
>>> share serial and data lines with elevator servo and then you are good to go
>>> and a short calibration procedure.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> Email Forum -
>>> ==========
>>> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>> ==========
>>> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
>>> ==========
>>> p; - List Contribution Web Site -
>>> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
Does the AP have to be engaged? Or can it be enabled without engaging the A
P?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 30, 2017, at 1:49 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
> It works independently of the roll auto trim. At least I'd does on the tru
trak system.
>
>
> Shannon
>
>> On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 1:47 PM Kevin Belue wrote:
>> Does the yaw damper take care of rudder trim without the automatic trim b
ox?
>>
>>> On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 12:53 PM, Shannon Hicks wr
ote:
>>> Needed? No.
>>>
>>> Awesome? Heck yes!
>>>
>>> I decided to install a yaw dampener, because I feared cutting my beautif
ully straight rudder to accommodate an electric trim tab. It was relatively i
nexpensive ($800) compared to the rest of the gizmos on the plane and has be
en amazing in use.
>>>
>>> Last week we encountered some really bad turbulence coming into Houston a
nd the ball stayed centered no matter how much we we're getting tossed aroun
d.
>>>
>>> In the end, this falls into the personal preference realm.
>>>
>>> If I were to build another -10 I would do the yaw dampener hands down.
>>>
>>> Shannon
>>>
>>>> On Jun 30, 2017 12:08 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>>>> Historically on the the RV-10 the consensus is that it isn't needed.
>>>>
>>>> Get Outlook for iOS
>>>>
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of Linn Walters
>>>> Sent: Friday, June 30, 2017 11:21:54 AM
>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>>>
>>>> Interesting discussion. Does anyone really need it?
>>>> I plan on using a RC servo hooked to trim hinge on rudder (because I ca
n) ..... and had not heard of yaw damper .....
>>>> Linn
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Samsung tablet cruising on the Allure Of The Seas.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>> >=46rom mhealydds
>>>> Date: 06/30/2017 7:42 AM (GMT-05:00)
>>>> To rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Subject RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I installe
d it anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying wi
th ti for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy to r
eport everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10 is a
pparently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works great, b
ut I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon tiller arm (1
50.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the plane which was not
a huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install pretty easy....the Vans
bracket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell crank brackets and you wil
l have to run new ground and power to new servo but can share serial and dat
a lines with elevator servo and then you are good to go and a short calibrat
ion procedure.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> Email Forum -
>>>> ==========
>>>> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>>> ==========
>>>> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
>>>> ==========
>>>> p; - List Contribution Web Site -
>>>> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
There is another way that's even cheaper. I didn't want to cut my rudder
either so I used the stock elevator spring bias system to make a rudder
spring bias system.
2 pieces of cable are attached to the rudder at the horn. One goes
directly to the spring but the other goes to a pulley and then to the
other spring. I mounted the pulley on a bracket bolted to the back of
the battery tray/elevator bellcrank box.
The stock elevator spring bias assy is not modified and bolts to the
bottom skin straddling a stringer.
In practice right rudder is not normally needed but long, fast descents
need some left.
(Another builder uses a spring bias system attached to the rudder
pedals.)
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Shannon Hicks
I decided to install a yaw dampener, because I feared cutting my
beautifully straight rudder to accommodate an electric trim tab. It was
relatively inexpensive ($800) compared to the rest of the gizmos on the
plane and has been amazing in use.
Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV10(at)TEXASRV10.COM" <rv10(at)texasrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
On Garmin, there is a yaw button to engage the yaw system. The yaw system tr
ims to release pressure to appropriate required hands off trim. Works fantas
tic.
Gaylon Koenning
> On Jun 30, 2017, at 13:58, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Does the AP have to be engaged? Or can it be enabled without engaging th
e AP?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 30, 2017, at 1:49 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>>
>> It works independently of the roll auto trim. At least I'd does on the tr
utrak system.
>>
>>
>> Shannon
>>
>>> On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 1:47 PM Kevin Belue wrote:
>>> Does the yaw damper take care of rudder trim without the automatic trim b
ox?
>>>
>>>> On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 12:53 PM, Shannon Hicks w
rote:
>>>> Needed? No.
>>>>
>>>> Awesome? Heck yes!
>>>>
>>>> I decided to install a yaw dampener, because I feared cutting my beauti
fully straight rudder to accommodate an electric trim tab. It was relatively
inexpensive ($800) compared to the rest of the gizmos on the plane and has b
een amazing in use.
>>>>
>>>> Last week we encountered some really bad turbulence coming into Houston
and the ball stayed centered no matter how much we we're getting tossed aro
und.
>>>>
>>>> In the end, this falls into the personal preference realm.
>>>>
>>>> If I were to build another -10 I would do the yaw dampener hands down.
>>>>
>>>> Shannon
>>>>
>>>>> On Jun 30, 2017 12:08 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>>>>> Historically on the the RV-10 the consensus is that it isn't needed.
>>>>>
>>>>> Get Outlook for iOS
>>>>>
>>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@mat
ronics.com> on behalf of Linn Walters
>>>>> Sent: Friday, June 30, 2017 11:21:54 AM
>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>>>>
>>>>> Interesting discussion. Does anyone really need it?
>>>>> I plan on using a RC servo hooked to trim hinge on rudder (because I c
an) ..... and had not heard of yaw damper .....
>>>>> Linn
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from Samsung tablet cruising on the Allure Of The Seas.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>>> >=46rom mhealydds
>>>>> Date: 06/30/2017 7:42 AM (GMT-05:00)
>>>>> To rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>> Subject RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I install
ed it anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying w
ith ti for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy to
report everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10 is
apparently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works great
, but I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon tiller arm
(150.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the plane which was n
ot a huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install pretty easy....the Va
ns bracket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell crank brackets and you w
ill have to run new ground and power to new servo but can share serial and d
ata lines with elevator servo and then you are good to go and a short calibr
ation procedure.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> Email Forum -
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> p; - List Contribution Web Site -
>>>>> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>>> ==========
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Thanks,
>>> Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
Phil,
My set up requires the AP do be engaged for the YD to function. I believe
Garmin and TruTrak have a button to engage the YD independently. IN
prctice, I fly with AP on 90% of the time, so it works for me. I flew
almost my entire phase 1 (40) with it disconnected and the only time, It
bothered me was long straight flights where I would have the AP on anyway.
OH, that reminds me, My roll servo failed leaving Sun-n-fun this year, so I
had to hand fly all the way back to Houston with 45kt headwinds. THAT
SUCKED!!!!
On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 1:58 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Does the AP have to be engaged? Or can it be enabled without engaging
> the AP?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 30, 2017, at 1:49 PM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
> It works independently of the roll auto trim. At least I'd does on the
> trutrak system.
>
>
> Shannon
>
> On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 1:47 PM Kevin Belue wrote:
>
>> Does the yaw damper take care of rudder trim without the automatic trim
>> box?
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 12:53 PM, Shannon Hicks
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Needed? No.
>>>
>>> Awesome? Heck yes!
>>>
>>> I decided to install a yaw dampener, because I feared cutting my
>>> beautifully straight rudder to accommodate an electric trim tab. It was
>>> relatively inexpensive ($800) compared to the rest of the gizmos on the
>>> plane and has been amazing in use.
>>>
>>> Last week we encountered some really bad turbulence coming into Houston
>>> and the ball stayed centered no matter how much we we're getting tossed
>>> around.
>>>
>>> In the end, this falls into the personal preference realm.
>>>
>>> If I were to build another -10 I would do the yaw dampener hands down.
>>>
>>> Shannon
>>>
>>> On Jun 30, 2017 12:08 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>>>
>>>> Historically on the the RV-10 the consensus is that it isn't needed.
>>>>
>>>> Get Outlook for iOS
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> matronics.com> on behalf of Linn Walters
>>>> *Sent:* Friday, June 30, 2017 11:21:54 AM
>>>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>>>
>>>> Interesting discussion. Does anyone really need it?
>>>> I plan on using a RC servo hooked to trim hinge on rudder (because I
>>>> can) ..... and had not heard of yaw damper .....
>>>> Linn
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Samsung tablet cruising on the Allure Of The Seas.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>> >From mhealydds <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
>>>> Date: 06/30/2017 7:42 AM (GMT-05:00)
>>>> To rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Subject RV10-List: Re: Rv10 yaw damper
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I
>>>> installed it anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been
>>>> flying with ti for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am
>>>> happy to report everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and
>>>> the -10 is apparently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper
>>>> works great, but I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit,
>>>> Dynon tiller arm (150.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the
>>>> plane which was not a huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install
>>>> pretty easy....the Vans bracket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell
>>>> crank brackets and you will have to run new ground and power to new servo
>>>> but can share serial and data lines with elevator servo and then you are
>>>> good to go and a short calibration procedure.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> Email Forum -
>>>> ==========
>>>> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>>> ==========
>>>> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
>>>> ==========
>>>> p; - List Contribution Web Site -
>>>> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
On dynon/AFS system AP has to be engaged for yaw damper to work...at least with
the update I have on my AFS. I had a spring based system before installing yaw
damper which I kept in place for when not flying with autopilot but MUCH prefer
the yaw damper that I recently put it. A necessity no, a bit pricey maybe,
but would not go back at this point
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470627#470627
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
Any reason the YD servo couldn't use same power and ground as the elevator
servo?
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 4:42 AM, mhealydds wrote:
>
> I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I installed
> it anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying
> with ti for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy
> to report everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10
> is apparently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works
> great, but I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon
> tiller arm (150.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the plane
> which was not a huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install pretty
> easy....the Vans bracket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell crank
> brackets and you will have to run new ground and power to new servo but can
> share serial and data lines with elevator servo and then you are good to go
> and a short calibration procedure.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
No reason at all. For the Dynon servo, you would just need to run an extra w
ire for the yellow, so the YD can be turned on/off separately.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 1, 2017, at 9:10 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Any reason the YD servo couldn't use same power and ground as the elevator
servo?
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
>> On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 4:42 AM, mhealydds wrote:
>>
>> I had the same initial thoughts as you but, two weekends ago I installed i
t anyway after assurance from Vans and Rob at AFS (who has been flying with t
i for over a year he said) that the Vans kits would work. I am happy to repo
rt everything worked out well. The bulk head for the -14 and the -10 is appa
rently the same in that area so it fits OK. The yaw damper works great, but
I do have to admit it is a bit pricey after Vans kit, Dynon tiller arm (150
.00), and new servo. It added about four pounds to the plane which was not a
huge deal for me. Bottom line every thing install pretty easy....the Vans b
racket kit essentially bolts onto existing bell crank brackets and you will h
ave to run new ground and power to new servo but can share serial and data l
ines with elevator servo and then you are good to go and a short calibration
procedure.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470607#470607
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john dalmas <jdalmas(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Quick Build Kit for sale, finish and fly in less than |
a year ! Save $$$$
Hi,
I have decided to sell my RV-10 project:
Quick build fuselage with doors and cowling nicely mounted
Dynon D-100 and D-180 EFIS and EMSrebuilt Hartzell CS PropLycoming IO-540-C
4B5 with 700 hours.=C2-=C2- 6 rebuilt cylinders 0 STOHMuch more, you ca
n see it on craigslist:
Allentown (Lehigh Valley) PA craigslist:=C2-=C2- general for sale, unde
r the title:
"Single Engine Aircraft Vans RV-10"
Thanks for looking !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes |
I lined up the F-1046L longeron with the gusset as described on page 29-9,
with the longeron flush with the skin. Then, I drilled the holes. The edge
distance is terrible, but I can't see what I did wrong. I've searched and
found others with the same problem, but no resolutions turn up. The diagram
on 29-9 sure acts like these holes will wind up in the middle of the
longeron, but I don't see how.
Waiting to drill the other side until I can figure out how to avoid the
same problem. Looks to me like I should replace the longeron, but I don't
know how to do it any differently and still have the longeron flush with
the skin.
https://goo.gl/photos/J8s8gheQ1GBmUUi1A
https://goo.gl/photos/z11vaX6PZt3Zc1w69
Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes |
I don't think you need to rebuild the longeron. Give Vans a call tomorrow a
nd send them the photos too. I believe they have developed a repair for th
is. IIRC, it involves a gusset. But give them a shout and I'm pretty su
re they'll be able to take care of you.
At least you noticed it now. Some folks have built on and had to correct i
t later after the tail is assembled. Only to have to tear it back apart to f
ix it.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2017, at 4:16 PM, Berck E. Nash wrote:
>
> I lined up the F-1046L longeron with the gusset as described on page 29-9,
with the longeron flush with the skin. Then, I drilled the holes. The edge d
istance is terrible, but I can't see what I did wrong. I've searched and fou
nd others with the same problem, but no resolutions turn up. The diagram on 2
9-9 sure acts like these holes will wind up in the middle of the longeron, b
ut I don't see how.
>
> Waiting to drill the other side until I can figure out how to avoid the sa
me problem. Looks to me like I should replace the longeron, but I don't know
how to do it any differently and still have the longeron flush with the ski
n.
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/J8s8gheQ1GBmUUi1A
> https://goo.gl/photos/z11vaX6PZt3Zc1w69
>
> Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes |
Thanks, I've got an e-mail out to them with the photos, I'll let you know
what they send back.
Rebuilding the longeron isn't a big deal. Heck, I can probably bend this
one in under half an hour after all the practice with the first four. The
bigger deal is that after I build it, I'm not sure what to do to fix the
problem. I can line the longeron up so that the holes in the gusset are in
the middle, but that's going to create quite a gap to the skins. It looks
like a similar situation on the other side.
On Tue, Jul 4, 2017 at 8:25 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> I don't think you need to rebuild the longeron. Give Vans a call
> tomorrow and send them the photos too. I believe they have developed a
> repair for this. IIRC, it involves a gusset. But give them a shout and
> I'm pretty sure they'll be able to take care of you.
>
> At least you noticed it now. Some folks have built on and had to correct
> it later after the tail is assembled. Only to have to tear it back apart
> to fix it.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 4, 2017, at 4:16 PM, Berck E. Nash wrote:
>
> I lined up the F-1046L longeron with the gusset as described on page 29-9,
> with the longeron flush with the skin. Then, I drilled the holes. The edge
> distance is terrible, but I can't see what I did wrong. I've searched and
> found others with the same problem, but no resolutions turn up. The diagram
> on 29-9 sure acts like these holes will wind up in the middle of the
> longeron, but I don't see how.
>
> Waiting to drill the other side until I can figure out how to avoid the
> same problem. Looks to me like I should replace the longeron, but I don't
> know how to do it any differently and still have the longeron flush with
> the skin.
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/J8s8gheQ1GBmUUi1A
> https://goo.gl/photos/z11vaX6PZt3Zc1w69
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel filter/gascolator screen advice |
Many thanks Les.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 12 Jun 2017, at 06:34, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> FWIW I put my fuel filters n the wing roots. I did at one point have them under
the seats. Under the seats is just a little less inconvenient than the tunnel.
Even though I put an access panel in the tunnel, I wanted to be able to inspect
the filters quickly and easily. All I need do now is to remove the top
root cover and the filters are out in a couple of minutes.
>
> I also wanted to minimize connections inside the cockpit and near the exhaust.
>
> I used Earls Performance fuel filters which have worked out quite well. The filters
screens are easily removed and cleaned.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> C-GCWZ flying
> C-GROK some assembly required
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469979#469979
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tire / Brake Life |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I was checking my tire pressure today and started thinking about when I should
be replacing my tires / brake pads.
Am I correct in assuming that brake pad should be replaced when they are 2/3 worn.
The new RAPCO pad I purchased a while ago have a small divot on the end which
I assume is a wear indicator. Is this correct?
How long should tires last? Is there a good way to tell when they need replacement?
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470781#470781
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tire / Brake Life |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
2/3 wear on the pads is about right. You can go as thin as you like as long as
you don't start rubbing the disk with the rivets that hold the pads.
Tires are your call, as long as the cord isn't showing.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470783#470783
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Trim Servo |
Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, final
typically has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need
some back pressure ... but that's not the story.
Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realized
it was taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined
that it was not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up
(tab down) position.
Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not
jammed, it still gets power - when activated, the unit does some
"whirring" - but the jack screw does not move. It appears something
INTERNAL to the unit has failed.
In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in
this manner. Anyone ?
Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
--Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
We just replaced one on a -10 on our field. Exactly the same failure after some
T&G's in the evening. There was noise but no movement as a gear broke inside
the unit.
It was ~10 years old, FYI.
I suspect this servo gets more use (and high pressures on the mechanisms) than
any other servo (Aileron and rudder for those who have rudder trim).
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
>
> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, final typically
has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need some back pressure
... but that's not the story.
>
> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realized it was
taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined that it was
not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab down) position.
>
> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not jammed, it
still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - but the jack
screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit has failed.
>
> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in this manner.
Anyone ?
>
> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
>
> --Ron
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
Last message send too early.
So I have been disabling auto-trim on my auto pilot. Just to keep it from working
up a down until I can learn more about how much input it's putting into the
system. I really don't want to go on a 3 hour flight and have the auto-trim
running the tab the whole time when the trim is close enough that servo is close
enough to handle the loads.
So I've been using auto trim to get level and then shutting it down until it's
needed.
I don't know if it helps much, but I'm just hoping to extend the life of the servo
by running it when it really doesn't need to be running.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
>
> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, final typically
has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need some back pressure
... but that's not the story.
>
> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realized it was
taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined that it was
not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab down) position.
>
> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not jammed, it
still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - but the jack
screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit has failed.
>
> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in this manner.
Anyone ?
>
> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
>
> --Ron
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I was reading this thread with some interest as I was about to do this step as
well.
Prior to drilling I marked where the holes would be using a sharpie through the
gusset holes. The edge distance was not good for the aft most holes.
The source of the problem was that the flange of the gusset was not parallel to
the skin / longeron.
I was think of using a shim to move the longeron inboard but then realized there
was a much simpler solution.
If you rotate the F-1005C you can get the gusset flange to line up parallel to
the skin. This will give good edge distance. You will need to rotate the F1005
beyond where you want it a sit will spring back a little.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470800#470800
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tire / Brake Life |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Bob
Thanks for the info. It will be most useful, I don't know much about tires.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470801#470801
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Question for the IO-540 Engine Mavens |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Today I got a line on an IO-540 AE1A5 engine that was in a helicopter. It has 500
TSNew. It has had a the helicopter equivalent of a prop strike and so needs
to be inspected etc.
Can anyone tell me if it possible to use this engine as a core for use in a -10.
I would plan on having the engine inspected / overhauled / converted for use
on my project if it makes economic sense.
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les
C-GCWZ flying
C-GROK some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470805#470805
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Question for the IO-540 Engine Mavens |
Hi Les,
I don't thing this engine will be a good fit unfortunately. The IO-540
TCDS describes it as follows:
-AE1A5 - Similar to O-540-F1B5 with IO-540-K angle valve cylinders, pistons,
piston squirts and fuel injection and induction system.
It will have angle valve cylinders which are too wide for the RV-10 cowl.
It also weighs 416 lbs vs. the 379lbs of the stock D4A5. I'm not sure, but
it's also likely that the sump and/or case geometry may cause issues.
David
On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 8:51 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Today I got a line on an IO-540 AE1A5 engine that was in a helicopter. It
> has 500 TSNew. It has had a the helicopter equivalent of a prop strike and
> so needs to be inspected etc.
>
> Can anyone tell me if it possible to use this engine as a core for use in
> a -10. I would plan on having the engine inspected / overhauled /
> converted for use on my project if it makes economic sense.
>
> Inquiring minds need to know...
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ flying
> C-GROK some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470805#470805
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
I spent the better part of an hr this morning removing the servo. I hope
re-install goes as smoothly.
I removed the servo cover and got a look at the innards. One of the
drive gears had a few teeth missing. In this "dead spot", the shaft will
not move. Culprit identified.
Pricey little gizmo, too.
--Ron
On 07/08/2017 08:28 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> We just replaced one on a -10 on our field. Exactly the same failure after some
T&G's in the evening. There was noise but no movement as a gear broke inside
the unit.
>
> It was ~10 years old, FYI.
>
> I suspect this servo gets more use (and high pressures on the mechanisms) than
any other servo (Aileron and rudder for those who have rudder trim).
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>>
>>
>> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, final typically
has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need some back
pressure ... but that's not the story.
>>
>> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realized it was
taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined that it was
not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab down) position.
>>
>> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not jammed, it
still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - but the jack
screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit has failed.
>>
>> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in this manner.
Anyone ?
>>
>> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
>>
>> --Ron
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
Curious how old it was? The one we replaced had the same failure at 10 years.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 9, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
>
> I spent the better part of an hr this morning removing the servo. I hope re-install
goes as smoothly.
>
> I removed the servo cover and got a look at the innards. One of the drive gears
had a few teeth missing. In this "dead spot", the shaft will not move. Culprit
identified.
>
> Pricey little gizmo, too.
>
> --Ron
>
>> On 07/08/2017 08:28 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>> We just replaced one on a -10 on our field. Exactly the same failure after
some T&G's in the evening. There was noise but no movement as a gear broke inside
the unit.
>> It was ~10 years old, FYI.
>> I suspect this servo gets more use (and high pressures on the mechanisms) than
any other servo (Aileron and rudder for those who have rudder trim).
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, final typically
has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need some back
pressure ... but that's not the story.
>>>
>>> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realized it was
taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined that it was
not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab down) position.
>>>
>>> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not jammed, it
still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - but the jack
screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit has failed.
>>>
>>> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in this manner.
Anyone ?
>>>
>>> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
>>>
>>> --Ron
>>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
I bought the emp kit in 2005, so I would guess at least 12 yrs old.
However, it's only been flying since Oct 2016 (9 mths). Perhaps it just
went brittle while sitting idle all those years.
--Ron
On 07/09/2017 11:28 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Curious how old it was? The one we replaced had the same failure at 10 years.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 9, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Ron Walker wrote:
>>
>>
>> I spent the better part of an hr this morning removing the servo. I hope re-install
goes as smoothly.
>>
>> I removed the servo cover and got a look at the innards. One of the drive gears
had a few teeth missing. In this "dead spot", the shaft will not move. Culprit
identified.
>>
>> Pricey little gizmo, too.
>>
>> --Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes |
Thanks, I eventually came to the same conclusion. Vans wrote back and said
they didn't know what caused the problem, but that I could just add a
doubler. That didn't seem like a reasonable solution to me. Sure, I could
add a doubler and put new holes in the longeron, but the new holes through
the doubler would have bad edge distance in the gusset. I could add more
holes way out in the gusset, but this wasn't satisfying to me, either.
After spending a lot of time playing with the parts and a sharpie, I
realized what you did, that I could pivot the gusset outboard and fix the
edge distance. For the right side (which I hadn't drilled yet), I went
ahead and drilled through the side skin in the forward-most hole into the
longeron so I could cleco to the skin and be sure that alignment was
correct. Then, I simply squeezed the gusset inboard with my hands and
drilled the aft-most hole first. Put a cleco in it, and drilled the rest.
I think they came out just fine.
So, I rebuilt the left longeron with the bad holes (probably took me about
the same amount of time as making a doubler from scratch, figuring out
rivet lengths, etc, would have taken). Drilled the new longeron with my
new technique and I think it too is now fine.
https://goo.gl/photos/t63mDsvT4a5nmDFu5
https://goo.gl/photos/bgZw1QuKYaSiWZLS8
So, a note to anyone else who hasn't yet done this: check your edge
distance before drilling these holes (particularly on the aft-most hole),
and note that you can pull the gusset outboard as necessary to get the
right edge distance.
On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 5:35 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I was reading this thread with some interest as I was about to do this
> step as well.
>
> Prior to drilling I marked where the holes would be using a sharpie
> through the gusset holes. The edge distance was not good for the aft most
> holes.
> The source of the problem was that the flange of the gusset was not
> parallel to the skin / longeron.
>
> I was think of using a shim to move the longeron inboard but then realized
> there was a much simpler solution.
>
> If you rotate the F-1005C you can get the gusset flange to line up
> parallel to the skin. This will give good edge distance. You will need to
> rotate the F1005 beyond where you want it a sit will spring back a little.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470800#470800
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
I've read numerous posts regarding different options when installing the engine.
Does anyone know of a list of recommendations for items to delete from the Van's
FWF kit. I'm installing the IO-540 from Lycoming with 1 slick and 1 pmag.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470938#470938
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
I've read numerous posts regarding different options when installing the engine.
Does anyone know of a list of recommendations for items to delete from the Van's
FWF kit. I'm installing the IO-540 from Lycoming with 1 slick and 1 pmag.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470939#470939
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's FWF kit |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
Its been awhile but IIRC I deleted most of the hoses (which I replaced with ones
from Tom at TS Flightlnes), the alternator, and the oil cooler mount/bracket
(which I had bought earlier so I could install it during firewall construction).
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470957#470957
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XGkzgT9ONmZDAFB33
Unless I just have an anomaly, I may have discovered the mysterious reason that
"slight modification" must be done to use the 14 designated Y/D bracket kit on
a -10.
The Y/D bracket is supposed to sandwich in-between the pitch servo bracket and
the flange of the bulkhead which are already mated up. The two aft holes, however,
are about 1/16 of an inch wider on the Y/D bracket forcing you to elongate
the hole inward to match up.
Considering the absolute deadnuts accuracy there has been in everything else, I
have to imagine that they know this. It is too far off to fit but close enough
for the screw to barely catch a thread or two. A simple note in the instructions
could save some tailcone imbedded frustration and perhaps, a stripped nutplate
that would be a bugger to replace.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470959#470959
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's FWF kit |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I'd delete the Pmag and move on to something that's actually available. :)
It was ready to ship within the next two weeks at least 7 years ago.
If you are going with the stock Lycoming, Van's cowling, Hartzell prop then the
fwf kit is adequate. I upgraded all the hoses to integral firesleeve from Stratoflex.
If I were to do it again I'd get the fuel hoses with the red external
firesleeve on it. It may keep the fuel inside the hose a bit cooler.
Also, delete the hose that's connecting the fuel injection servo and the spider
and get two shorter ones to connect the fuel flow sender in between there.
Lenny
whodja wrote:
> I've read numerous posts regarding different options when installing the engine.
Does anyone know of a list of recommendations for items to delete from the
Van's FWF kit. I'm installing the IO-540 from Lycoming with 1 slick and 1 pmag.
--------
Lenny Iszak
Palm City, FL
2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470964#470964
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's FWF kit |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
It's been awhile but assuming that the kit includes the black baffle
material, I'd delete and replace with a sheet of silicon material. Easy
to work with, virtually like new after 900 hours, the orange/red looks
good too.
On 7/12/2017 11:20 AM, whodja wrote:
>
> I've read numerous posts regarding different options when installing the engine.
Does anyone know of a list of recommendations for items to delete from the
Van's FWF kit. I'm installing the IO-540 from Lycoming with 1 slick and 1 pmag.
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john dalmas <jdalmas(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon D100 EFIS and D120 EMS for sale |
Hi,
I posted my RV-10 project and sold it in a week.=C2-=C2- Thanks Matroni
cs and RV-10 builders.
The buyer wanted to put his own panel in and did not need the Dynon D-100 a
nd D-120 EFIS and EMS.
Since I am not building the RV-10 I am selling them with some other items.
They are in Excellent condition.=C2- I just powered them up for the first
time today so you could see them.
=C2-you can see it on craigslist:
Allentown (Lehigh Valley) PA craigslist:=C2-=C2- general for sale, unde
r the title:
"
Dynon D100 EFIS and D120 EMS - $4000
"
Thanks for looking !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Is there going to be a dinner on Sunday night again this year? Where do we sign
up?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Dinner? |
Jesse,
Dinner is the Sunday before show start at 5:30. Pretty sure you already
confirmed attendance for 5... we're between 51st & 52nd, just south of
Lindbergh.
Bob
On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 8:00 AM Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Is there going to be a dinner on Sunday night again this year? Where do we
> sign up?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Dinner? |
Bob,
I'm glad this came up. We suddenly have a rare chance to get to attend Os
hkosh this year, first time for our RV-10 in 11 years. Is it too late to sig
n up for the dinner? We plan to arrive Sunday afternoon.
Thanks,
Marcus
> On Jul 16, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Bob Condrey wrote:
>
> Jesse,
>
> Dinner is the Sunday before show start at 5:30. Pretty sure you already c
onfirmed attendance for 5... we're between 51st & 52nd, just south of Lindb
ergh.
>
> Bob
>
>> On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 8:00 AM Jesse Saint wro
te:
>>
>> Is there going to be a dinner on Sunday night again this year? Where do w
e sign up?
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> 352-427-0285
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
==========================
==========================
==========================
==========================
==========================
==========================
==========================
=============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Langley" <klangley1(at)mygrande.net> |
Bob,
I also plan to attend. I came along with Phil Perry last year shortly
after purchasing my RV 10. No, I wasn=99t the builder, but the
info you guys provide here has been extremely helpful in greatly
improving the condition and reliability of my RV 10. Anyway, Phil and I
plan to attend again this year, and will be arriving (from Texas) as
early as possible on Sunday afternoon.
Kenneth Langley
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oshkosh Dinner?
Jesse,
Dinner is the Sunday before show start at 5:30. Pretty sure you already
confirmed attendance for 5... we're between 51st & 52nd, just south of
Lindbergh.
Bob
On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 8:00 AM Jesse Saint
wrote:
Is there going to be a dinner on Sunday night again this year? Where do
we sign up?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
Newish RV-10 (70 hours). So far I have had no problems since ending build with
flight but during run up on today's flight rpm was normal at idle but with power
quickly shot up to over 2000 (at lower than normal throttle setting) and rapidly
dropped off during single mag use. Prop cycle gave no real change in pitch
(no audible change). Tried high speed down taxiway and rpm went into red again.
Took off cowl and linkage to govenor was fine and no other obvious problems
other than engine maybe hot (or it just seemed that way as 95 outside). I have
hartzell govenor from vans. Does that mean bad governor you think?
Thanks
Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471079#471079
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Right now all you said is that the RPM went up to 2000. Without having actual RPM
numbers, I'm not sure what to say. You said the RPM went into the red, but
are you saying that there is a red on the low-end or the high-end? It's not clear
if you mean that it actually went over 2700 RPM.
Tim
> On Jul 16, 2017, at 6:43 PM, mhealydds wrote:
>
>
> Newish RV-10 (70 hours). So far I have had no problems since ending build with
flight but during run up on today's flight rpm was normal at idle but with power
quickly shot up to over 2000 (at lower than normal throttle setting) and
rapidly dropped off during single mag use. Prop cycle gave no real change in pitch
(no audible change). Tried high speed down taxiway and rpm went into red
again. Took off cowl and linkage to govenor was fine and no other obvious problems
other than engine maybe hot (or it just seemed that way as 95 outside). I
have hartzell govenor from vans. Does that mean bad governor you think?
>
> Thanks
> Matt
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471079#471079
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
Sorry typing in heat and sun. Yes redline over 2700 skips from 1100 to over 2700
(maxed 2850 before reduce throttle)with increase in throttle.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471083#471083
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Make sure it's not just a displayed rpm problem. How are you getting the RPM signal?
Did your brakes start dragging? It's not easy to hold the plane in place at 2700rpm.
Below around 1400rpm the Hartzell governor will not change pitch.
If it's real RPMs, I'd call Hartzell, their tech support is awesome.
--------
Lenny Iszak
Palm City, FL
2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471085#471085
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Add the resistor & you'll be good to go.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 16, 2017, at 8:36 PM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
>
> Make sure it's not just a displayed rpm problem. How are you getting the RPM
signal?
> Did your brakes start dragging? It's not easy to hold the plane in place at 2700rpm.
>
> Below around 1400rpm the Hartzell governor will not change pitch.
>
> If it's real RPMs, I'd call Hartzell, their tech support is awesome.
>
> --------
> Lenny Iszak
> Palm City, FL
> 2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471085#471085
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If the RPMs are real, that you really got 2850...which I kind of doubt or
your high speed taxi would have been an airborne event...
You need to get the Lycoming service bulletin for engine overspeeds. IIRC
5% or 2835 is the threshold for inspecting and possibly replacement of some
items.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 5:36 PM, Lenny Iszak
wrote:
>
> Make sure it's not just a displayed rpm problem. How are you getting the
> RPM signal?
> Did your brakes start dragging? It's not easy to hold the plane in place
> at 2700rpm.
>
> Below around 1400rpm the Hartzell governor will not change pitch.
>
> If it's real RPMs, I'd call Hartzell, their tech support is awesome.
>
> --------
> Lenny Iszak
> Palm City, FL
> 2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471085#471085
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Our planes are listening, and I believe have detected some OSH anxiety. In
the past week I have suffered brake failure and my autopilot roll servo
sheared its shear pin.
All fixable, but departure time is getting close. I would be pissed if
something else fails.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
My autopilot failed, the compass sprang a leak, and I don't get back from a family
vacation until sometime Tuesday to begin repairs, play catch-up on house related
chores, and begin Oshkosh preparations (including seam sealing the new
tent).
Got a lot of stuff to do before I depart on Saturday....
> On Jul 16, 2017, at 10:26 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Our planes are listening, and I believe have detected some OSH anxiety. In the
past week I have suffered brake failure and my autopilot roll servo sheared
its shear pin.
> All fixable, but departure time is getting close. I would be pissed if something
else fails.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Agree with others - check your tach. At rest or taxi speeds the mechanical prop
stop should not allow 2800 RPM.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471093#471093
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I am looking at the Van's FWF kit and am wondering about the supplied alternator.
Does anyone know the make / model of the alternator.
My plan is to use an alternator that is easily replaced so that a failure doesn't
mean a long delay on the ground.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471103#471103
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Villani <Jim(at)sold702.com> |
Use a 1 wire GM alternator
About $60 at auto zone lifetime warrantee
Thanks,
Jim Villani
Broker / Salesman
Great Real Estate
Jim(at)Sold702.com
Mammoth Creek Excavation
WeDig435.com
702 379 5524 cell
-------- Original message --------
From: kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: 07/17/2017 7:54 AM (GMT-07:00)
Subject: RV10-List: Alternator
Hi
I am looking at the Van's FWF kit and am wondering about the supplied alter
nator. Does anyone know the make / model of the alternator.
My plan is to use an alternator that is easily replaced so that a failure d
oesn't mean a long delay on the ground.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471103#471103
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The alternator supplied with the FWF kit in 2010 was a Plane Power 60 amp unit
with an internal regulator.
I don't know if that has changed or not since then.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471111#471111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Hmm, when I ordered in early 2010 it was still shown as Nippondenso, so I
deleted and bought Plane Power on my own.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 11:48 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> The alternator supplied with the FWF kit in 2010 was a Plane Power 60 amp
> unit with an internal regulator.
> I don't know if that has changed or not since then.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471111#471111
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doc <docclv(at)windstream.net> |
I'd recommend using a GM or Ford alternator. About $80 new at any auto
parts store and available any where on the spurge of the moment. You
will have to put on a larger alternator pulley (3 in or so) in order to
not over speed the alternator (check the diameter of the car engine
drive pulley, RPM at cruise-about 2000 at 70 mph, the diameter of the
Lycoming V-belt pulley, etc. and match things up). Much cheaper than an
aircraft alternator and more reliable.
Doc 123CV #41087
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for all your help. It definitely a sensor problem after some further checking.
Working on a fix. Thanks for getting my head straight.
Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471124#471124
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Dinner? |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
There isn't a "sign up" for the dinner, we're just trying to get a head count to
make sure we've got a good estimate for food.
The social/dinner was initially posted a while back on VAF and here. I'll bump
the original post so everybody will see it. We're already on-site and the event
will be I very close to where we've been in prior years; in Camp Scholler
between 51st & 52nd streets, immediately south of Lindbergh.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471125#471125
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Bump for those that missed the original post
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471126#471126
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
| From: | "bcondrey" <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Just to have all info in the same thread...
Location is between 51st & 52nd streets, just south of Lindbergh in Camp Scholler.
Start time still 5:30. As in years past, RV-10 builders/flyers/dreamers
are welcome to use the common area we've set up for socializing before during
the week of the show. We're on site now and have tables and shade ready to go.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help facilitate
our gathering and there will be a free will donation box available. There
isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, just whatever you feel
like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit venture, any funds remaining
after dinner expenses are covered are rolled over into the next year as "seed
funds".
We started putting this together in the very early RV-10 years as a way for us
early builders to meet and exchange ideas. We've kept it going because there
is a constant stream of new builders that can benefit. It's also RV-10 related
chatter every night, a chance to reconnect with people and a chance to meet
new builders.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help facilitate
our gathering and there will be a free will donation box available. There
isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, just whatever you feel
like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit venture, any funds remaining
after expenses are covered are just rolled over into the next year.
Bob (and Gary)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471127#471127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Dinner? |
Bob, please add three to the tally, and thanks for your annual hospitality!
--Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Josh Tinkham <unitink72(at)gmail.com> |
I've done a lot of research on the subject. The best option I've found is
the Autozone 14118 from a 1976 Chevy Luv. 60 Amp, turns the right way, and
externally regulated. I'm not sure why its not more popular unless there's
something I'm missing.
-Josh
On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 8:47 AM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking at the Van's FWF kit and am wondering about the supplied
> alternator. Does anyone know the make / model of the alternator.
>
> My plan is to use an alternator that is easily replaced so that a failure
> doesn't mean a long delay on the ground.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471103#471103
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Just want to mention this so it doesn't get overlooked in the enthusiasm of getting
a more easily replaceable alternator.
If you are using an automotive alternator make sure you add overvoltage protection
to your charging system. B & C has a crowbar module or there's a more modern
option from Perihelion Designs. If you don't have one of these and your voltage
regulator fails it can kill a bunch of your expensive avionics.
Couple that with a lithium battery that has OV protection built in, in an overvoltage
situation it disconnects itself from the circuit, there's nothing to absorb
the high voltage and then all of your avionics are done before you even think
about hitting your master switch.
--------
Lenny Iszak
Palm City, FL
2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471135#471135
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
DO NOT USE THE DEFAULT SETTINGS.
In the absence of further guidance, I tried my Y/D out this morning with the default
settings. Holy Crap I thought the tail was going to come off it was oscillating
back and forth so forcefully. I was grateful for the additional disconnect
switch. On the ground, I called support and left a message. In the meantime
I found a thread by "GaryK" on the Dynon forum. I tried his settings and
it worked great. Much different than the default settings.
As an example, his AY gain is .005 and the default was 1.0!
the sensitivity was also 10 compared to his 4. Below are his settings which I
highly recommend as a starting point. I mentioned same to Dynon when they returned
my call.
Settings are:
Torque. 90
Sensitivity 4
Rudder Gain .2
Rudder Rate 0.020
AY Gain 0.005
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471140#471140
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
Do you have sky view or AFS EFIS. I have AFS and default setting seem to be fine.
I wondered if yours was skyview or I better check mine closer.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471147#471147
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I have SkyView. They just posted new default parameters on the Dynon forum. They
said there was an update glitch causing the defaults to get askew.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471148#471148
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
Update for those of you that it may apply to. Turns out with latest AFS update
they added the ability to customize to separate ignition setting in the RPM control
menu in those with AFS and SV-EMS. This new ignition section was set to
default of two pulses per 2 revolution but for six cylinder should be three pulses.
One quick change and all reads OK. One of those ah ha moments I guess
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471149#471149
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv10 yaw damper |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Myron has the Skyview EFIS.
On 7/18/2017 7:34 PM, mhealydds wrote:
>
> Do you have sky view or AFS EFIS. I have AFS and default setting seem to be fine.
I wondered if yours was skyview or I better check mine closer.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471147#471147
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
| From: | "Barry" <blmarzaa(at)gmail.com> |
Amy and Barry Marz are planning to come, WX permitting. Thanks much
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471157#471157
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Leaning and Learning |
I am about 19.5 hours into Phase 1 and am still learning all the little
nuances of the engine. For the first few hours I kept the mixture and
power pushed close to the firewall for break-in. Recently, now that the
engine looks like the new has worn off, I have started to lean the engine
more and more aggressively.
Mine might be behaving like others, but I'd like to confirm it or talk
through some possibilities.
Yesterday I was at 5,500 msl (roughly 7,000 DA), activated the leaning
function on my G3X, and started leaning. Power: 24 In / 2500 RPM. As I
began to approach peak EGT, the engine started to cough a bit. That was
in the neighborhood of 12.5 GPH.
I hadn't reached peak yet, so I continued with the leaning just to see. I
was able to get the first cylinder to peak at 11.9ish and once I found peak
for that cylinder I richened it back up to 75=C2=BA ROP. The engine smoot
hed
right out and was happy. That was around 14 GPH.
Is this a behavior that you see in your engine, or have I missed something
along the way?
- The engine is an Aersport IO-540-D4A5 and pistons are 9:1.
- The Ignition is Light Speed on one side and a Slick (Impluse) on the
other. The slick is timed at 20=C2=BA per Aerosport's engraving on the da
ta
plate.
- Fuel/Induction is from Airflow Performance.
I'm just curious to know if your engine exhibits the same behavior of
running rough before it reaches peak. I'm not attempting to run it LOP
because the injectors haven't been balanced yet, but I really don't see how
it would be possible to run LOP smoothly when there's even less fuel
entering the nozzle.
Sometimes too much data out of the EMS leads to re-learning a lot of
things. In the past, I didn't have this much EGT/FF information and would
just lean until it got rough and then twist the mixture in a few times.
My assumption always was that the mixture was on the LOP side when the
roughness started. In this case, with all this fancy equipment, I can see
the roughness starts on the ROP side.
Anyway, I'm just curious if this behavior is normal and something I
shouldn't worry about or if there's something really going on that I need
to stop and investigate.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
Phil,
You need to balance your injectors. You have the exact same engine as I do
and it took about three iterations with Don at airflow performance to get
mine dialed into where I am today. Give him a call and he will send you a
lean test sheet. Send it to him and he will send you a new set of injector
nozzles. Replace the existing ones with the ones he sends you, then repeat
the test.
After a couple of tries you will be able to fly LOP just fine.
Shannon
On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 8:19 AM Phillip Perry wrote:
> I am about 19.5 hours into Phase 1 and am still learning all the little
> nuances of the engine. For the first few hours I kept the mixture and
> power pushed close to the firewall for break-in. Recently, now that the
> engine looks like the new has worn off, I have started to lean the engine
> more and more aggressively.
>
> Mine might be behaving like others, but I'd like to confirm it or talk
> through some possibilities.
>
> Yesterday I was at 5,500 msl (roughly 7,000 DA), activated the leaning
> function on my G3X, and started leaning. Power: 24 In / 2500 RPM. As
I
> began to approach peak EGT, the engine started to cough a bit. That was
> in the neighborhood of 12.5 GPH.
>
> I hadn't reached peak yet, so I continued with the leaning just to see.
> I was able to get the first cylinder to peak at 11.9ish and once I found
> peak for that cylinder I richened it back up to 75=C2=BA ROP. The engin
e
> smoothed right out and was happy. That was around 14 GPH.
>
> Is this a behavior that you see in your engine, or have I missed somethin
g
> along the way?
>
> - The engine is an Aersport IO-540-D4A5 and pistons are 9:1.
> - The Ignition is Light Speed on one side and a Slick (Impluse) on the
> other. The slick is timed at 20=C2=BA per Aerosport's engraving on the
data
> plate.
> - Fuel/Induction is from Airflow Performance.
>
> I'm just curious to know if your engine exhibits the same behavior of
> running rough before it reaches peak. I'm not attempting to run it LOP
> because the injectors haven't been balanced yet, but I really don't see h
ow
> it would be possible to run LOP smoothly when there's even less fuel
> entering the nozzle.
>
> Sometimes too much data out of the EMS leads to re-learning a lot of
> things. In the past, I didn't have this much EGT/FF information and wou
ld
> just lean until it got rough and then twist the mixture in a few times.
> My assumption always was that the mixture was on the LOP side when the
> roughness started. In this case, with all this fancy equipment, I can se
e
> the roughness starts on the ROP side.
>
> Anyway, I'm just curious if this behavior is normal and something I
> shouldn't worry about or if there's something really going on that I need
> to stop and investigate.
>
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Hi Phil,
It probably is a factor in injector balance. I can basically lean from
full rich
all the way to 75 LOP or more and it doesn't stumble. So my guess is
that you will find the injectors need a bit of balancing. Personally I'd
wait until you get 25 hours on it before backing off on the hard running,
and then get it up to 9500 msl where you are well into the range where
you can't exceed any high power setting going LOP and then do a very very
slow full mixture pull all the way to 50 LOP. Do this 3 or 4 times,
and upload it all to Savvy or use some software to look at the peak curves.
You'll see if they match up or not. And then get right to balancing
the injectors. People procrastinate...I know I do, and wait far too
long to
balance the injectors on their engines. Why suffer rough running longer
than normal? On my RV-14 I haven't yet done a balance, but, that's
because after running the test early on, it was so close I wasn't sure if
I could even improve it. I'm going to have to go back now and see if it's
changed at all. I am happy it's pretty good right out of the box, and I've
been flying it LOP a bunch. Stumbling is just something you shouldn't
experience
if everything is set up right on an IO engine.
If I am cruising LOP and I richen it up, all I get is a little
acceleration, and a little
more "thump" to the power stroke as the cylinder pressures get higher.
Other than that it's just smooth.
You're definitely right about the "too much data". People fixate on
numbers when
using digital data, but in this particular case, you'll want that data.
Hopefully
you can capture it at 1 second resolution, and if so, you'll be able to
tune it in
very quickly.
Oh, and when you do the LOP, one benefit of being high (not Colorado
high), is
that you can do it at WOT. Your doing it at 24" and 2500rpm is higher than
I would do it it at. That's above 75% power I believe, no? (This is
off the
cuff so 'scuse me if I'm wrong on that) Anyway, do the test at an altitude
where you can get 21-22" and 2360rpm and see how that goes.
I really don't fly LOP under 7500msl unless I power back, and I prefer not
to power back. :)
Tim
On 7/20/2017 8:15 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> I am about 19.5 hours into Phase 1 and am still learning all the
> little nuances of the engine. For the first few hours I kept the
> mixture and power pushed close to the firewall for break-in.
> Recently, now that the engine looks like the new has worn off, I have
> started to lean the engine more and more aggressively.
>
> Mine might be behaving like others, but I'd like to confirm it or talk
> through some possibilities.
>
> Yesterday I was at 5,500 msl (roughly 7,000 DA), activated the leaning
> function on my G3X, and started leaning. Power: 24 In / 2500 RPM.
> As I began to approach peak EGT, the engine started to cough a bit.
> That was in the neighborhood of 12.5 GPH.
>
> I hadn't reached peak yet, so I continued with the leaning just to
> see. I was able to get the first cylinder to peak at 11.9ish and
> once I found peak for that cylinder I richened it back up to 75 ROP.
> The engine smoothed right out and was happy. That was around 14 GPH.
>
> Is this a behavior that you see in your engine, or have I missed
> something along the way?
>
> - The engine is an Aersport IO-540-D4A5 and pistons are 9:1.
> - The Ignition is Light Speed on one side and a Slick (Impluse) on the
> other. The slick is timed at 20 per Aerosport's engraving on the
> data plate.
> - Fuel/Induction is from Airflow Performance.
>
> I'm just curious to know if your engine exhibits the same behavior of
> running rough before it reaches peak. I'm not attempting to run it
> LOP because the injectors haven't been balanced yet, but I really
> don't see how it would be possible to run LOP smoothly when there's
> even less fuel entering the nozzle.
>
> Sometimes too much data out of the EMS leads to re-learning a lot of
> things. In the past, I didn't have this much EGT/FF information and
> would just lean until it got rough and then twist the mixture in a few
> times. My assumption always was that the mixture was on the LOP side
> when the roughness started. In this case, with all this fancy
> equipment, I can see the roughness starts on the ROP side.
>
> Anyway, I'm just curious if this behavior is normal and something I
> shouldn't worry about or if there's something really going on that I
> need to stop and investigate.
>
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I don't think it is particularly normal. You should not be getting more
than a hint of roughness as you approach peak. I would not do your
testing at the power setting you had. Reduce to 65% power first, until
you determine where the roughness is coming from. You won't hurt
anything at 65%, while you can cause problems leaning slowly while at or
above 75%. Also, for your power setting, 11.9 is too lean for first cyl
to peak. Either you don't have FF calibrated yet, or your power is
dropping significantly while you are leaning. Once you have injectors
balanced and any ignition issues dealt with, you can then just lean
directly to a FF value LOP and know what power you are getting and that
you are at a setting that treats the engine well.
I have two Bendix S-1200 mags, with stock Bendix RSA fuel injection, and
stock 8.5:1 compression. While I will feel a hint of vibration as I go
LOP, the engine doesn't get rough until leaner than 50 LOP. The
vibration is significantly less than 1 fouled plug would cause, more a
feeling than hearing anything. I have not balanced injectors yet.
I use the formula of 14.9 times your fuel flow while LOP equals power.
For 195 hp, (75%) that is 13.0 gph. For 70% it is 12. For 65% it is
11.3, for 60% 10.5 and so on. That is with the LOP definition of degrees
lean from the LAST cyl to peak. For your higher compression you might
need to bump the calculation factor to 15.0
At your starting power, you were near 75%, and I would guess your power
dropped off around 10% as you approached peak on first cylinder.
Have you run either GAMI test or AFP leaning test?
Another measure of mixture distribution is to glance at your EGTs
shortly after lift-off, full power. Ideally they all will be at or 1300
or less, preferably centered on 1250, plus or minus 50. That will have
you approximately 200 ROP, where you want during full power operations.
You can also check your ignition at cruise altitude by setting the
mixture you want, then doing a routine mag check....with the caveat that
if engine quits for any reason, you go to near lean cutoff before
turning mag back on...that is to protect your mufflers, and to prevent a
prop surge.
On 7/20/2017 6:15 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> I am about 19.5 hours into Phase 1 and am still learning all the little
> nuances of the engine. For the first few hours I kept the mixture and
> power pushed close to the firewall for break-in. Recently, now that
> the engine looks like the new has worn off, I have started to lean the
> engine more and more aggressively.
>
> Mine might be behaving like others, but I'd like to confirm it or talk
> through some possibilities.
>
> Yesterday I was at 5,500 msl (roughly 7,000 DA), activated the leaning
> function on my G3X, and started leaning. Power: 24 In / 2500 RPM.
> As I began to approach peak EGT, the engine started to cough a bit.
> That was in the neighborhood of 12.5 GPH.
>
> I hadn't reached peak yet, so I continued with the leaning just to see.
> I was able to get the first cylinder to peak at 11.9ish and once I
> found peak for that cylinder I richened it back up to 75 ROP. The
> engine smoothed right out and was happy. That was around 14 GPH.
>
> Is this a behavior that you see in your engine, or have I missed
> something along the way?
>
> - The engine is an Aersport IO-540-D4A5 and pistons are 9:1.
> - The Ignition is Light Speed on one side and a Slick (Impluse) on the
> other. The slick is timed at 20 per Aerosport's engraving on the data
> plate.
> - Fuel/Induction is from Airflow Performance.
>
> I'm just curious to know if your engine exhibits the same behavior of
> running rough before it reaches peak. I'm not attempting to run it LOP
> because the injectors haven't been balanced yet, but I really don't see
> how it would be possible to run LOP smoothly when there's even less fuel
> entering the nozzle.
>
> Sometimes too much data out of the EMS leads to re-learning a lot of
> things. In the past, I didn't have this much EGT/FF information and
> would just lean until it got rough and then twist the mixture in a few
> times. My assumption always was that the mixture was on the LOP side
> when the roughness started. In this case, with all this fancy
> equipment, I can see the roughness starts on the ROP side.
>
> Anyway, I'm just curious if this behavior is normal and something I
> shouldn't worry about or if there's something really going on that I
> need to stop and investigate.
>
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
A little more data...
Since my engine has 9:1 pistons, Aerosport power suggested that it 285 was
closer to the baseline for calculating percentage of HP. So, using that
math in the G3X setup, it was about 68% of power. I can't say the FF is
100% correct yet, but it's close. I've been making a number of power
changes in my flights and haven't had a chance to get a constant enough run
to feel like it's calibrated. But it's always been fairly close.
Good info so far.. Thanks for the continued discussion.
Phil
On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote
:
>
> I don't think it is particularly normal. You should not be getting more
> than a hint of roughness as you approach peak. I would not do your testi
ng
> at the power setting you had. Reduce to 65% power first, until you
> determine where the roughness is coming from. You won't hurt anything at
> 65%, while you can cause problems leaning slowly while at or above 75%.
> Also, for your power setting, 11.9 is too lean for first cyl to peak.
> Either you don't have FF calibrated yet, or your power is dropping
> significantly while you are leaning. Once you have injectors balanced and
> any ignition issues dealt with, you can then just lean directly to a FF
> value LOP and know what power you are getting and that you are at a setti
ng
> that treats the engine well.
> I have two Bendix S-1200 mags, with stock Bendix RSA fuel injection, and
> stock 8.5:1 compression. While I will feel a hint of vibration as I go LO
P,
> the engine doesn't get rough until leaner than 50 LOP. The vibration is
> significantly less than 1 fouled plug would cause, more a feeling than
> hearing anything. I have not balanced injectors yet.
> I use the formula of 14.9 times your fuel flow while LOP equals power. Fo
r
> 195 hp, (75%) that is 13.0 gph. For 70% it is 12. For 65% it is 11.3, fo
r
> 60% 10.5 and so on. That is with the LOP definition of degrees lean from
> the LAST cyl to peak. For your higher compression you might need to bump
> the calculation factor to 15.0
> At your starting power, you were near 75%, and I would guess your power
> dropped off around 10% as you approached peak on first cylinder.
> Have you run either GAMI test or AFP leaning test?
> Another measure of mixture distribution is to glance at your EGTs shortly
> after lift-off, full power. Ideally they all will be at or 1300 or less,
> preferably centered on 1250, plus or minus 50. That will have you
> approximately 200 ROP, where you want during full power operations.
> You can also check your ignition at cruise altitude by setting the mixtur
e
> you want, then doing a routine mag check....with the caveat that if engin
e
> quits for any reason, you go to near lean cutoff before turning mag back
> on...that is to protect your mufflers, and to prevent a prop surge.
>
>
> On 7/20/2017 6:15 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>> I am about 19.5 hours into Phase 1 and am still learning all the little
>> nuances of the engine. For the first few hours I kept the mixture and
>> power pushed close to the firewall for break-in. Recently, now that th
e
>> engine looks like the new has worn off, I have started to lean the engin
e
>> more and more aggressively.
>>
>> Mine might be behaving like others, but I'd like to confirm it or talk
>> through some possibilities.
>>
>> Yesterday I was at 5,500 msl (roughly 7,000 DA), activated the leaning
>> function on my G3X, and started leaning. Power: 24 In / 2500 RPM.
As
>> I began to approach peak EGT, the engine started to cough a bit. That
was
>> in the neighborhood of 12.5 GPH.
>>
>> I hadn't reached peak yet, so I continued with the leaning just to see.
>> I was able to get the first cylinder to peak at 11.9ish and once I fou
nd
>> peak for that cylinder I richened it back up to 75=C2=BA ROP. The engi
ne
>> smoothed right out and was happy. That was around 14 GPH.
>>
>> Is this a behavior that you see in your engine, or have I missed
>> something along the way?
>>
>> - The engine is an Aersport IO-540-D4A5 and pistons are 9:1.
>> - The Ignition is Light Speed on one side and a Slick (Impluse) on the
>> other. The slick is timed at 20=C2=BA per Aerosport's engraving on the
data
>> plate.
>> - Fuel/Induction is from Airflow Performance.
>>
>> I'm just curious to know if your engine exhibits the same behavior of
>> running rough before it reaches peak. I'm not attempting to run it LOP
>> because the injectors haven't been balanced yet, but I really don't see
how
>> it would be possible to run LOP smoothly when there's even less fuel
>> entering the nozzle.
>>
>> Sometimes too much data out of the EMS leads to re-learning a lot of
>> things. In the past, I didn't have this much EGT/FF information and wo
uld
>> just lean until it got rough and then twist the mixture in a few times.
>> My assumption always was that the mixture was on the LOP side when the
>> roughness started. In this case, with all this fancy equipment, I can s
ee
>> the roughness starts on the ROP side.
>>
>> Anyway, I'm just curious if this behavior is normal and something I
>> shouldn't worry about or if there's something really going on that I nee
d
>> to stop and investigate.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I suggest you not use whatever power the engine made on the dyno, but
rather 260 hp for calculating performance. My reasoning is that you then
can get consistent numbers with other users. Using the stock numbers
with higher compression should get you better fuel economy.
Also, higher compression pistons generate more heat, the cylinders tend
to run hotter, which accelerates wear. A more extreme example...I know
of an aircraft that had an STC to run 10:1 pistons in a 200 hp IO-360.
It might have had a MP restriction around 28" so that the engine didn't
make more power than the airframe was certified for. However the
aircraft did not have a full engine monitor, only single pt EGT,CHT and
oil temp. Before 1000 hours the engine had self-destructed at least one
piston, on takeoff from MSN for OSH. A terrible way to not make OSH. A
lot of engines that had that STC did not make more than 800 hours before
needing top overhauls.
It is nice to have the power when you need it, or to run say something
over 170 hp to higher altitudes, but I would not make a practice of
running it over 195 hp in cruise, especially rich of peak. I wouldn't
climb it at over 260 hp unless you had an obstacle clearance issue.
These engines have very good longevity at the 250-260 hp they were
originally rated, durability at higher power is not well documented.
Lycoming made significant changes to the engine to run at 300 hp, such
as oil nozzles spraying on the bottom of pistons, better breathing and
cooling fins, bigger heads, etc.
On 7/20/2017 7:08 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> A little more data...
>
> Since my engine has 9:1 pistons, Aerosport power suggested that it 285
> was closer to the baseline for calculating percentage of HP. So, using
> that math in the G3X setup, it was about 68% of power. I can't say the
> FF is 100% correct yet, but it's close. I've been making a number of
> power changes in my flights and haven't had a chance to get a constant
> enough run to feel like it's calibrated. But it's always been fairly close.
>
> Good info so far.. Thanks for the continued discussion.
>
> Phil
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I don't think it is particularly normal. You should not be getting
> more than a hint of roughness as you approach peak. I would not do
> your testing at the power setting you had. Reduce to 65% power
> first, until you determine where the roughness is coming from. You
> won't hurt anything at 65%, while you can cause problems leaning
> slowly while at or above 75%. Also, for your power setting, 11.9 is
> too lean for first cyl to peak. Either you don't have FF calibrated
> yet, or your power is dropping significantly while you are leaning.
> Once you have injectors balanced and any ignition issues dealt with,
> you can then just lean directly to a FF value LOP and know what
> power you are getting and that you are at a setting that treats the
> engine well.
> I have two Bendix S-1200 mags, with stock Bendix RSA fuel injection,
> and stock 8.5:1 compression. While I will feel a hint of vibration
> as I go LOP, the engine doesn't get rough until leaner than 50 LOP.
> The vibration is significantly less than 1 fouled plug would cause,
> more a feeling than hearing anything. I have not balanced injectors yet.
> I use the formula of 14.9 times your fuel flow while LOP equals
> power. For 195 hp, (75%) that is 13.0 gph. For 70% it is 12. For
> 65% it is 11.3, for 60% 10.5 and so on. That is with the LOP
> definition of degrees lean from the LAST cyl to peak. For your
> higher compression you might need to bump the calculation factor to 15.0
> At your starting power, you were near 75%, and I would guess your
> power dropped off around 10% as you approached peak on first cylinder.
> Have you run either GAMI test or AFP leaning test?
> Another measure of mixture distribution is to glance at your EGTs
> shortly after lift-off, full power. Ideally they all will be at or
> 1300 or less, preferably centered on 1250, plus or minus 50. That
> will have you approximately 200 ROP, where you want during full
> power operations.
> You can also check your ignition at cruise altitude by setting the
> mixture you want, then doing a routine mag check....with the caveat
> that if engine quits for any reason, you go to near lean cutoff
> before turning mag back on...that is to protect your mufflers, and
> to prevent a prop surge.
>
>
> On 7/20/2017 6:15 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I am about 19.5 hours into Phase 1 and am still learning all the
> little nuances of the engine. For the first few hours I kept
> the mixture and power pushed close to the firewall for
> break-in. Recently, now that the engine looks like the new has
> worn off, I have started to lean the engine more and more
> aggressively.
>
> Mine might be behaving like others, but I'd like to confirm it
> or talk through some possibilities.
>
> Yesterday I was at 5,500 msl (roughly 7,000 DA), activated the
> leaning function on my G3X, and started leaning. Power: 24 In
> / 2500 RPM. As I began to approach peak EGT, the engine
> started to cough a bit. That was in the neighborhood of 12.5 GPH.
>
> I hadn't reached peak yet, so I continued with the leaning just
> to see. I was able to get the first cylinder to peak at
> 11.9ish and once I found peak for that cylinder I richened it
> back up to 75 ROP. The engine smoothed right out and was
> happy. That was around 14 GPH.
>
> Is this a behavior that you see in your engine, or have I missed
> something along the way?
>
> - The engine is an Aersport IO-540-D4A5 and pistons are 9:1.
> - The Ignition is Light Speed on one side and a Slick (Impluse)
> on the other. The slick is timed at 20 per Aerosport's
> engraving on the data plate.
> - Fuel/Induction is from Airflow Performance.
>
> I'm just curious to know if your engine exhibits the same
> behavior of running rough before it reaches peak. I'm not
> attempting to run it LOP because the injectors haven't been
> balanced yet, but I really don't see how it would be possible to
> run LOP smoothly when there's even less fuel entering the nozzle.
>
> Sometimes too much data out of the EMS leads to re-learning a
> lot of things. In the past, I didn't have this much EGT/FF
> information and would just lean until it got rough and then
> twist the mixture in a few times. My assumption always was
> that the mixture was on the LOP side when the roughness
> started. In this case, with all this fancy equipment, I can see
> the roughness starts on the ROP side.
>
> Anyway, I'm just curious if this behavior is normal and
> something I shouldn't worry about or if there's something really
> going on that I need to stop and investigate.
>
> Phil
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
Good points... I can adjust it down and use that as the reference...
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 20, 2017, at 9:27 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> G3X
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
| From: | "LarryRosen" <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
Bob,
Fortunately we are leaving for OSH earlier than planned. After a long long building
pause I am back at it and looking forward to seeing a lot of new faces.
We are a group of 5.
Larry Rosen
#356 and still building
Slow Slow Quickbuild
--------
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471202#471202
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Do you really have a Slick mag with impulse coupling? I'm a little hazy on the
details, but Lycoming stopped shipping them that way, and put in retard mags with
Slick start instead. I think there's a repetitive A/D on the impulse coupling
in this engine?
And, as someone with a relatively new engine, I assume you've heard about the wide-reaching
"mandatory SB" on the connecting rod journals?
But this is all independent of balancing your injectors. It's easy and relatively
inexpensive. After balancing, I can slowly back the mixture way out, and the
engine continues to run smoothly - just makes less and less power as I go further
and further lean of peak. Running LOP gives reasonable range with the standard
60 gallon tanks. (160 KTAS on 10 gal/hr).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471203#471203
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Phil, I've been running LOP for 900 hours and 6 years now. Everything
I'd have to offer is captured in Tim's post - every single word.
After you have it all set up and get comfortable (I don't need no
stinking gauges, I just move the mixture next to about there), you'll
even be able to lean in the climb up to 8-11k where the '10 really
becomes a sweet traveling machine. But leaning in the climb in not LOP,
it's just maintaining a reasonable ROP setting.
Bill "LOP is great but you have to go thru a couple of tuning cycles
first" Watson
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and Learning |
Lycoming will ship with most any Slick mag you want. The problem with
impulse couplings dates back awhile..current ones I don't believe have
the AD..different attach method. Some vintage Bendix also had impulse
coupler problems, IIRC. None of them come with Slick Start, AFAIK. You
have to add that to retard breaker mags.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Do you really have a Slick mag with impulse coupling? I'm a little hazy on the
details, but Lycoming stopped shipping them that way, and put in retard mags
with Slick start instead. I think there's a repetitive A/D on the impulse coupling
in this engine?
> And, as someone with a relatively new engine, I assume you've heard about the
wide-reaching "mandatory SB" on the connecting rod journals?
> But this is all independent of balancing your injectors. It's easy and relatively
inexpensive. After balancing, I can slowly back the mixture way out, and
the engine continues to run smoothly - just makes less and less power as I go
further and further lean of peak. Running LOP gives reasonable range with the
standard 60 gallon tanks. (160 KTAS on 10 gal/hr).
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471203#471203
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
On 7/4/2017 6:16 PM, Berck E. Nash wrote:
On related note; I would recommend that builders apply corrosion
protection (primer, alodine) to the longeron, particularly where it
joins to the skin.
Vans is very conservative with specifying areas where they recommend
priming and I don't recall if this is one of those areas. Many builders
are obsessive about priming and will certainly prime/alodine it. I
missed this one and had to take some action to stop some filiform
corrosion developing at that joint.
Bill "in no way, shape or form is trying to restart any version of the
primer wars" Watson
> I lined up the F-1046L longeron with the gusset as described on page
> 29-9, with the longeron flush with the skin. Then, I drilled the
> holes. The edge distance is terrible, but I can't see what I did
> wrong. I've searched and found others with the same problem, but no
> resolutions turn up. The diagram on 29-9 sure acts like these holes
> will wind up in the middle of the longeron, but I don't see how.
>
> Waiting to drill the other side until I can figure out how to avoid
> the same problem. Looks to me like I should replace the longeron, but
> I don't know how to do it any differently and still have the longeron
> flush with the skin.
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/J8s8gheQ1GBmUUi1A
> https://goo.gl/photos/z11vaX6PZt3Zc1w69
>
> Any suggestions?
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Lenny
I agree on the OV protection. If you are using a VP-X, it will kill the field in
an OV situation.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Lenny Iszak wrote:
> Just want to mention this so it doesn't get overlooked in the enthusiasm of getting
a more easily replaceable alternator.
> If you are using an automotive alternator make sure you add overvoltage protection
to your charging system. B & C has a crowbar module or there's a more modern
option from Perihelion Designs. If you don't have one of these and your voltage
regulator fails it can kill a bunch of your expensive avionics.
>
> Couple that with a lithium battery that has OV protection built in, in an overvoltage
situation it disconnects itself from the circuit, there's nothing to
absorb the high voltage and then all of your avionics are done before you even
think about hitting your master switch.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471210#471210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes |
Thanks, good call. Vans does specifically call out priming the longerons.
First, in section 5, they specifically say to prime all angle, as it's not
alclad. Then, in section 29, it specifically says to prime the longerons,
then other parts as desired.
I'm not priming anything Van's doesn't say to prime, but I did miss the
aluminum angle in the tail cone, so I'm going to go back and do it.
Berck (feeling like he missed out, since he started building too late to
join the primer wars)
On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 4:09 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> On 7/4/2017 6:16 PM, Berck E. Nash wrote:
> On related note; I would recommend that builders apply corrosion
> protection (primer, alodine) to the longeron, particularly where it joins
> to the skin.
>
> Vans is very conservative with specifying areas where they recommend
> priming and I don't recall if this is one of those areas. Many builders
> are obsessive about priming and will certainly prime/alodine it. I missed
> this one and had to take some action to stop some filiform corrosion
> developing at that joint.
>
> Bill "in no way, shape or form is trying to restart any version of the
> primer wars" Watson
>
> I lined up the F-1046L longeron with the gusset as described on page 29-9,
>> with the longeron flush with the skin. Then, I drilled the holes. The edge
>> distance is terrible, but I can't see what I did wrong. I've searched and
>> found others with the same problem, but no resolutions turn up. The diagram
>> on 29-9 sure acts like these holes will wind up in the middle of the
>> longeron, but I don't see how.
>>
>> Waiting to drill the other side until I can figure out how to avoid the
>> same problem. Looks to me like I should replace the longeron, but I don't
>> know how to do it any differently and still have the longeron flush with
>> the skin.
>>
>> https://goo.gl/photos/J8s8gheQ1GBmUUi1A
>> https://goo.gl/photos/z11vaX6PZt3Zc1w69
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Halmos <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Auto Response: RV10-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 07/20/17 |
Thank you for your email! Unfortunately, I will checking email VERY sporadically
but I will get back to you when I am able. Thanks, David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dlm <dlm34077(at)gmail.com> |
I use 2250 RPM as that is the IO540 best torque point. I also use about
22.5 MP or FT. This provides about 60% and LOP fuel flows about 9 gph and
150KTAS. I have had the aircraft to 17000 MSL over the four corners area
and showing about 50%, KTAS 150 and flow of slightly under 9 gph. Try best
torque RPM to achieve 150 KTAS and flows of about 9 gph. The running is
smooth and saves 1-3 gph by giving up about 10 KTAS.
Don't know the top speed having never been there. When I see 25 gph flow
for FT takeoff; I begin to think about leaning; With two people it will
climb faster than a spam can even at 55-60%.
David McNeill
N46007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I run about the same; 2200-2300 RPM and FT. I can get 9.2 gph and
150KTAS at 9,000 and above but I now aim for 155KTAS which takes the
fuel flow to 10.0 to 10.6. Nice know that the best torque point is
around 2250 because I've arrived at that figure by 'feel' (?).
Generally if I have a headwind I'll run more fuel thru it to get 155
-160KTAS and if a strong tailwind I roll the fuel back to do 150-155KTAS.
What I do on the climb is FT with a roll back from 2700 to 2600 once the
climb is established. Then at 1500 to 2000MSL I hit the leaning
function on my GRT. Once all cylinders' EGT falls to -10F I start
leaning to keep it there.
dAs I understand it, the thinking behind that is that the engine is
setup so that full rich and FT at sea level is safe in terms of cylinder
cooling and detonation. Then as you climb the engine at full rich is
progressively too rich. Waiting until 2000MSL then letting the EGTs
fall 10F keeps things conservatively rich (ROP) at which point I begin
leaning to stay there. I get some significant fuel flow savings on the
climb with flows dropping below 20gph before climbing thru 9k.
On 7/21/2017 8:54 AM, dlm wrote:
> I use 2250 RPM as that is the IO540 best torque point. I also use
> about 22.5 MP or FT. This provides about 60% and LOP fuel flows about
> 9 gph and 150KTAS. I have had the aircraft to 17000 MSL over the four
> corners area and showing about 50%, KTAS 150 and flow of slightly
> under 9 gph. Try best torque RPM to achieve 150 KTAS and flows of
> about 9 gph. The running is smooth and saves 1-3 gph by giving up
> about 10 KTAS.
>
> Don't know the top speed having never been there. When I see 25 gph
> flow for FT takeoff; I begin to think about leaning; With two people
> it will climb faster than a spam can even at 55-60%.
>
> David McNeill
> N46007
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
Bob and any others in the know,
I have an odd question, but since we are going to be arriving Sunday afternoon
and camping with our airplane in the homebuilt section and nothing is really
open yet on Sunday, is there any benefit to getting show tickets for Sunday?
Looks like we can just walk over to the camping area where you are setup
for the dinner. I dont want to be too cheap, but dont see the need to spend $19
each just to cut through either.
Thanks,
Marcus
On Jul 17, 2017, at 11:59 PM, bcondrey wrote:
Just to have all info in the same thread...
Location is between 51st & 52nd streets, just south of Lindbergh in Camp Scholler.
Start time still 5:30. As in years past, RV-10 builders/flyers/dreamers
are welcome to use the common area we've set up for socializing before during
the week of the show. We're on site now and have tables and shade ready to go.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help facilitate
our gathering and there will be a free will donation box available. There
isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, just whatever you feel
like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit venture, any funds remaining
after dinner expenses are covered are rolled over into the next year as "seed
funds".
We started putting this together in the very early RV-10 years as a way for us
early builders to meet and exchange ideas. We've kept it going because there
is a constant stream of new builders that can benefit. It's also RV-10 related
chatter every night, a chance to reconnect with people and a chance to meet
new builders.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help facilitate
our gathering and there will be a free will donation box available. There
isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, just whatever you feel
like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit venture, any funds remaining
after expenses are covered are just rolled over into the next year.
Bob (and Gary)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471127#471127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
There is plenty to see on Sunday.
Things changed a couple years ago. Most of the food places are now open on
the weekend.
You use your Monday band to gain access on Sunday. Nothing to purchase for
Sunday.
I'll be arriving HBC Saturday morning, weather permitting.
Get Outlook for iOS
_____________________________
From: Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com<mailto:cooprv7(at)yahoo.com>>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social
oprv7(at)yahoo.com>>
Bob and any others in the know,
I have an odd question, but since we are going to be arriving Sunday aftern
oon and camping with our airplane in the homebuilt section and nothing is r
eally open yet on Sunday, is there any benefit to getting show tickets for
Sunday? Looks like we can just walk over to the camping area where you are
setup for the dinner. I don=92t want to be too cheap, but don=92t see the n
eed to spend $19 each just to cut through either.
Thanks,
Marcus
On Jul 17, 2017, at 11:59 PM, bcondrey > wrote:
reyb(at)gmail.com>>
Just to have all info in the same thread...
Location is between 51st & 52nd streets, just south of Lindbergh in Camp Sc
holler. Start time still 5:30. As in years past, RV-10 builders/flyers/drea
mers are welcome to use the common area we've set up for socializing before
during the week of the show. We're on site now and have tables and shade r
eady to go.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help fac
ilitate our gathering and there will be a free will donation box available.
There isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, just whatever
you feel like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit venture, any f
unds remaining after dinner expenses are covered are rolled over into the n
ext year as "seed funds".
We started putting this together in the very early RV-10 years as a way for
us early builders to meet and exchange ideas. We've kept it going because
there is a constant stream of new builders that can benefit. It's also RV-1
0 related chatter every night, a chance to reconnect with people and a chan
ce to meet new builders.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help fac
ilitate our gathering and there will be a free will donation box available.
There isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, just whatever
you feel like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit venture, any f
unds remaining after expenses are covered are just rolled over into the nex
t year.
Bob (and Gary)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471127#471127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
Thanks, I had called EAA headquarters and they said nothing about the
Monday band working on Sunday. We will be there just in time for the
RV-10 dinner so I doubt we will need any more food. I had the
impression the only thing to see was airplanes arriving which we can do
from our airplane. Thanks for the heads up about the Monday bands
working.
Marcus
On Jul 21, 2017, at 2:10 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
There is plenty to see on Sunday.
Things changed a couple years ago. Most of the food places are now open
on the weekend.
You use your Monday band to gain access on Sunday. Nothing to purchase
for Sunday.
I'll be arriving HBC Saturday morning, weather permitting.
Get Outlook for iOS
_____________________________
From: Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com <mailto:cooprv7(at)yahoo.com>>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social
>
Bob and any others in the know,
I have an odd question, but since we are going to be arriving Sunday
afternoon and camping with our airplane in the homebuilt section and
nothing is really open yet on Sunday, is there any benefit to getting
show tickets for Sunday? Looks like we can just walk over to the camping
area where you are setup for the dinner. I don=92t want to be too cheap,
but don=92t see the need to spend $19 each just to cut through either.
Thanks,
Marcus
On Jul 17, 2017, at 11:59 PM, bcondrey > wrote:
>
Just to have all info in the same thread...
Location is between 51st & 52nd streets, just south of Lindbergh in Camp
Scholler. Start time still 5:30. As in years past, RV-10
builders/flyers/dreamers are welcome to use the common area we've set up
for socializing before during the week of the show. We're on site now
and have tables and shade ready to go.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help
facilitate our gathering and there will be a free will donation box
available. There isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score,
just whatever you feel like contributing. This is absolutely a zero
profit venture, any funds remaining after dinner expenses are covered
are rolled over into the next year as "seed funds".
We started putting this together in the very early RV-10 years as a way
for us early builders to meet and exchange ideas. We've kept it going
because there is a constant stream of new builders that can benefit.
It's also RV-10 related chatter every night, a chance to reconnect with
people and a chance to meet new builders.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help
facilitate our gathering and there will be a free will donation box
available. There isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score,
just whatever you feel like contributing. This is absolutely a zero
profit venture, any funds remaining after expenses are covered are just
rolled over into the next year.
Bob (and Gary)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471127#471127
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471127#471127>
-List" x-apple-data-detectors="true"
x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-detectors-result="6">
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
ta-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
x-apple-data-detectors-result="7"> http://forums.matronics.com
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
x-apple-data-detectors-result="8"> http://wiki.matronics.com
<http://wiki.matronics.com/>
x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
x-apple-data-detectors-result="9">
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
The bands actually say sun/mon too. See you Sunday!
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 2:29:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social
Thanks, I had called EAA headquarters and they said nothing about the Monda
y band working on Sunday. We will be there just in time for the RV-10 dinn
er so I doubt we will need any more food. I had the impression the only th
ing to see was airplanes arriving which we can do from our airplane. Thank
s for the heads up about the Monday bands working.
Marcus
On Jul 21, 2017, at 2:10 PM, Bob Leffler > wrote:
There is plenty to see on Sunday.
Things changed a couple years ago. Most of the food places are now open on
the weekend.
You use your Monday band to gain access on Sunday. Nothing to purchase for
Sunday.
I'll be arriving HBC Saturday morning, weather permitting.
Get Outlook for iOS
_____________________________
From: Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com<mailto:cooprv7(at)yahoo.com>>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social
oprv7(at)yahoo.com>>
Bob and any others in the know,
I have an odd question, but since we are going to be arriving Sunday aftern
oon and camping with our airplane in the homebuilt section and nothing is r
eally open yet on Sunday, is there any benefit to getting show tickets for
Sunday? Looks like we can just walk over to the camping area where you are
setup for the dinner. I don=92t want to be too cheap, but don=92t see the n
eed to spend $19 each just to cut through either.
Thanks,
Marcus
On Jul 17, 2017, at 11:59 PM, bcondrey > wrote:
reyb(at)gmail.com>>
Just to have all info in the same thread...
Location is between 51st & 52nd streets, just south of Lindbergh in Camp Sc
holler. Start time still 5:30. As in years past, RV-10 builders/flyers/drea
mers are welcome to use the common area we've set up for socializing before
during the week of the show. We're on site now and have tables and shade r
eady to go.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help fac
ilitate our gathering and there will be a free will donation box available.
There isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, just whatever
you feel like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit venture, any f
unds remaining after dinner expenses are covered are rolled over into the n
ext year as "seed funds".
We started putting this together in the very early RV-10 years as a way for
us early builders to meet and exchange ideas. We've kept it going because
there is a constant stream of new builders that can benefit. It's also RV-1
0 related chatter every night, a chance to reconnect with people and a chan
ce to meet new builders.
A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help fac
ilitate our gathering and there will be a free will donation box available.
There isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, just whatever
you feel like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit venture, any f
unds remaining after expenses are covered are just rolled over into the nex
t year.
Bob (and Gary)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471127#471127
-List" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
x-apple-data-detectors-result="6"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV
10-List
ta-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-det
ectors-result="7"> http://forums.matronics.com
m/>
-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-detec
tors-result="8"> http://wiki.matronics.com>
x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-appl
e-data-detectors-result="9"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social |
Just confirming what others have said - beginning Sunday wristbands are
required for access to the grounds. There isn't actually a Sunday
wristband though, as others have said, it's really just the Monday band.
The break even for the weekly wristband is 4 days I believe. Bottom line:
just get your Monday wristband when you do your camping reservation and
you're good to go with no extra cost.
Bob
On Fri, Jul 21, 2017 at 2:25 PM Bob Leffler wrote:
> The bands actually say sun/mon too. See you Sunday!
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Marcus Cooper <
> cooprv7(at)yahoo.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, July 21, 2017 2:29:07 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social
>
> Thanks, I had called EAA headquarters and they said nothing about the
> Monday band working on Sunday. We will be there just in time for the RV-
10
> dinner so I doubt we will need any more food. I had the impression the
> only thing to see was airplanes arriving which we can do from our
> airplane. Thanks for the heads up about the Monday bands working.
>
> Marcus
>
>
> On Jul 21, 2017, at 2:10 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> There is plenty to see on Sunday.
>
> Things changed a couple years ago. Most of the food places are now open
> on the weekend.
>
> You use your Monday band to gain access on Sunday. Nothing to purchase
> for Sunday.
>
> I'll be arriving HBC Saturday morning, weather permitting.
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> _____________________________
> From: Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 1:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 2017 AirVenture RV-10 Dinner/Social
> To:
>
>
> Bob and any others in the know,
>
> I have an odd question, but since we are going to be arriving Sunday
> afternoon and camping with our airplane in the homebuilt section and
> nothing is really open yet on Sunday, is there any benefit to getting sho
w
> tickets for Sunday? Looks like we can just walk over to the camping area
> where you are setup for the dinner. I don=99t want to be too cheap,
but don=99t
> see the need to spend $19 each just to cut through either.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
>
> On Jul 17, 2017, at 11:59 PM, bcondrey wrote:
>
>
> Just to have all info in the same thread...
>
> Location is between 51st & 52nd streets, just south of Lindbergh in Camp
> Scholler. Start time still 5:30. As in years past, RV-10
> builders/flyers/dreamers are welcome to use the common area we've set up
> for socializing before during the week of the show. We're on site now and
> have tables and shade ready to go.
>
> A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help
> facilitate our gathering and there will be a free will donation box
> available. There isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, ju
st
> whatever you feel like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit
> venture, any funds remaining after dinner expenses are covered are rolled
> over into the next year as "seed funds".
>
> We started putting this together in the very early RV-10 years as a way
> for us early builders to meet and exchange ideas. We've kept it going
> because there is a constant stream of new builders that can benefit. It's
> also RV-10 related chatter every night, a chance to reconnect with people
> and a chance to meet new builders.
>
> A few have asked about cost - A few generous vendors contribute to help
> facilitate our gathering and there will be a free will donation box
> available. There isn't a "recommended" amount and we don't keep score, ju
st
> whatever you feel like contributing. This is absolutely a zero profit
> venture, any funds remaining after expenses are covered are just rolled
> over into the next year.
>
>
> Bob (and Gary)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471127#471127
>
>
> ==========
> -List" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="lin
k"
> x-apple-data-detectors-result="6">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> ta-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
> x-apple-data-detectors-result="7"> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> -detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
> x-apple-data-detectors-result="8"> http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========
> x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
> x-apple-data-detectors-result="9"> http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Hoppe <bruce.hoppe(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Dinner? |
Bob,
I was not sure if we would make it today or not. There were 4 of us in my RV-10.
Counting a friend who is driving in today, please add 6 to your headcount including
3 same kids.
Bruce Hoppe
N720JH
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 17, 2017, at 10:37 PM, bcondrey wrote:
>
>
> There isn't a "sign up" for the dinner, we're just trying to get a head count
to make sure we've got a good estimate for food.
>
> The social/dinner was initially posted a while back on VAF and here. I'll bump
the original post so everybody will see it. We're already on-site and the
event will be I very close to where we've been in prior years; in Camp Scholler
between 51st & 52nd streets, immediately south of Lindbergh.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471125#471125
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh Sunday or Monday Ride East Needed |
| From: | "fdombroski" <frankdombroski(at)gmail.com> |
I made an audible, and will be flying to OSH with a friend from AZ Friday. Is
anyone headed East with an open seat Sunday or Monday? I am going to NJ, but
anywhere from ATL to Boston could work.
Thanks
Frank 908 five seven 7 one six 2 5
--------
Frank Dombroski
Multiple Offender RV-8, 7A, 10 x 2
RV-10 2.0 N46VT 2015
KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471267#471267
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRosen" <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
Josh, Where did you get the mounting hardware for the LUV alternator. Did the
Van's BRACKET KIT FOR GENERIC NIPPON DENSO ALT work?
unitink72(at)gmail.com wrote:
> I've done a lot of research on the subject. The best option I've found is the
Autozone 14118 from a 1976 Chevy Luv. 60 Amp, turns the right way, and externally
regulated. I'm not sure why its not more popular unless there's something
I'm missing.
>
> -Josh
>
>
>
--------
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471269#471269
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Any Minimax tug comments? |
Can anyone give a pirep on Minimax's tug for the -10?
(www.minimaxtug.com)
Looks like a pretty good product. I'm a little concerned about how well it
attaches to the nose wheel since if it came off it'd make a big mess. Any
input would be much appreciated!
--Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Minimax tug comments? |
Sorry, make that www.minimaxtugs.com
On Mon, Jul 24, 2017 at 22:33 David Saylor wrote:
> Can anyone give a pirep on Minimax's tug for the -10?
>
> (www.minimaxtug.com)
>
> Looks like a pretty good product. I'm a little concerned about how well it
> attaches to the nose wheel since if it came off it'd make a big mess. Any
> input would be much appreciated!
>
> --Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any Minimax tug comments? |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I had one of the drill motor versions for my 10. I reviewed it on VAF, but can't
find the post. It was back in 2013. In a nutshell, it just did not have enough
power and had a difficult time getting traction. It required significant
down pressure on the arm to keep the wheels from spinning. I returned it....
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471273#471273
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Minimax tug comments? |
Thanks Bill, that's great input. Did yours have the Milwaukee motor, or the
Dewalt? They have a pretty big honkin Milwaukee on it now, but some still
use the smaller Dewalt. Not that it would fix the downforce issue. -Dave
On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 9:28 AM bill.peyton wrote:
>
> I had one of the drill motor versions for my 10. I reviewed it on VAF,
> but can't find the post. It was back in 2013. In a nutshell, it just did
> not have enough power and had a difficult time getting traction. It
> required significant down pressure on the arm to keep the wheels from
> spinning. I returned it....
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471273#471273
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi All
I am back from KOSH and am wondering if anyone has installed the Aveo Conforma
Zip Tips. They look like a very cool product. For that reason I'd be interested
in any comments regarding performance / install etc.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some Assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471328#471328
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I'd like to give a shout out to Bob Condrey and others who organized the Sunday
RV10 dinner at KOSH. As in previous years it was great to meet old friends, meet
new ones and chat face to face.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some Assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471329#471329
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
I'd be interested to hear of your experience with them Les, they look great.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 28 Jul 2017, at 23:54, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi All
>
> I am back from KOSH and am wondering if anyone has installed the Aveo Conforma
Zip Tips. They look like a very cool product. For that reason I'd be interested
in any comments regarding performance / install etc.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Some Assembly required
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471328#471328
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
| From: | "jeffwhip" <jeffwhip(at)me.com> |
I don't have them installed but I bought them after seeing them in Oshkosh.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471340#471340
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Getting the logbook up to date and came up with a few stats.
This last OSH trip from Mesa AZ KFFZ
Tallied the following. I have a Barrett IO540 with 9.1 pistons, bendix FI, and
bendix 1200 mags. I have A/C which was on at least 80% of the time. I had a brief
divert into DBQ when OSH dropped to IFR and I didn't have a reservation.
18.4 Hobbs
16.8 Air
183.6 gallons burned
10.92 gallons per flight hour. I always run ROP.
No squawks for the trip. These are amazing machines.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471343#471343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Yes they are. What altitudes did you use? Is your a/c electric or engine driven?
Glad you had a safe trip.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
---- woxofswa wrote:
>
> Getting the logbook up to date and came up with a few stats.
> This last OSH trip from Mesa AZ KFFZ
> Tallied the following. I have a Barrett IO540 with 9.1 pistons, bendix FI, and
bendix 1200 mags. I have A/C which was on at least 80% of the time. I had a
brief divert into DBQ when OSH dropped to IFR and I didn't have a reservation.
>
> 18.4 Hobbs
>
> 16.8 Air
>
> 183.6 gallons burned
>
> 10.92 gallons per flight hour. I always run ROP.
>
> No squawks for the trip. These are amazing machines.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Flew May 10 2014
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471343#471343
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Altitudes really varied do to the weather. Anywhere from 4500 over the plains to
14500 over the Rockies. Probably averaged 7-8k for the trip. A/C is Airflow
Systems engine driven.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471345#471345
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I agree. I arrived late do to a simultaneous event, but it was great to be there
and I really appreciate the amount of work it takes to put that on.
Well done. Thanks.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471348#471348
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
What are they worth if you don't mind me asking please?
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 29 Jul 2017, at 15:25, jeffwhip wrote:
>
>
> I don't have them installed but I bought them after seeing them in Oshkosh.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471340#471340
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Can't tell you what they may or may not be worth to the individual
buyer. The asking price is $2200. I didn't ask if that was one wing or
both. They look great, the lights are bright...but not going to do
another set of wing tips and pay for another full set of lights, whether
it is $2200 or $4400. By the time you factor in labor getting the fit
just right with both the wing and aileron alignment, get all the nut
plates done, and in my case installing Archer antennas...it would be
easier to rework the glass where the lights are installed.
On 7/29/2017 9:51 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> What are they worth if you don't mind me asking please?
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick
>
>> On 29 Jul 2017, at 15:25, jeffwhip wrote:
>>
>>
>> I don't have them installed but I bought them after seeing them in Oshkosh.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471340#471340
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | PlanePower - won't repair their own alternators. B&C will. |
At about 800 hours tach time, 950 hrs hobbs time, my Planepower
alternator dropped to 1/2 output (26-28 Amp) maximum output enroute to
OSH last week. I spoke to PlanePower's reps at OSH last week (including
the alternator product line lead). Here's the summary:
- PlanePower suggests it's either a diode failure, or (more likely) a
failure of part of the stator (due to a known issue with PlanePower
alternators manufactured in the past).
- PlanePower won't repair this alternator.
- PlanePower won't repair the new version that they currently sell for
RV's. "It's not worth our time."
- PlanePower won't offer any consideration or discount for those who
purchased an alternator that failed.
This is consistent with other reports I've heard regarding Hartzell
Engine Technology (PlanePower owner) customer service.
So I spoke to B & C about their alternator. Yes, they offer repair
service. Yes, they'll overhaul or IRAN their alternator.
I bought a B&C alternator and external controller at OSH. I'd be better
off right now if I'd just spent the extra money on a B&C in the first place.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 960 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | MT prop governor failure - results of discussion with MT rep |
at OSH
As some have noted, MT's service bulletin 31
(http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/sbs/sb31.pdf) says the MT governor
flyweight failure problem applies to engines "modified with electronic
ignitions or higher compression pistons." At least one of the RVs that
had an MT governor fail had dual magnetos and stock pistons. It's been
reported on VAF that this has been brought to MT's attention. MT has not
changed the service bulletin in the intervening months.
Based on MT's unwillingness to honestly describe the failure condition
in their service bulletin, I lost confidence in MT and pulled the MT
governor from my plane in January. I replaced it with a PCU 5000, which
has noticeably better performance than the MT governor (the PCU doesn't
have the rpm hunting that the MT had).
At OSH this year, I spoke with MT about the fact that their SB is
misleading, in that there have been failures in engines without either
electronic ignition or high compression pistons. It was amazing to hear
the blamestorming from the German-accented MT rep at OSH. "What about
McCauley governor failures" "What about Whirlwind propeller failures." I
pointed out that the issue at hand was MT's failure to publish an
honest, complete service bulletin. The MT rep continued to attack other
products, rather than address MT's Service Bulletin shortcomings.
I'm glad I got rid of the MT governor on my plane several months ago.
Based on the behavior of MT on this issue, I'll advise all prospective
builders I meet not to use MT products.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 960 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Jones <d.j.goneflyin(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PlanePower - won't repair their own alternators. B&C will. |
I have 1100 hours on my B&C alternators and no problem. This alternator is used
by many companies flight schools.
Get the Best,
David
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 31, 2017, at 6:15 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> At about 800 hours tach time, 950 hrs hobbs time, my Planepower alternator dropped
to 1/2 output (26-28 Amp) maximum output enroute to OSH last week. I spoke
to PlanePower's reps at OSH last week (including the alternator product line
lead). Here's the summary:
>
> - PlanePower suggests it's either a diode failure, or (more likely) a failure
of part of the stator (due to a known issue with PlanePower alternators manufactured
in the past).
> - PlanePower won't repair this alternator.
> - PlanePower won't repair the new version that they currently sell for RV's.
"It's not worth our time."
> - PlanePower won't offer any consideration or discount for those who purchased
an alternator that failed.
>
> This is consistent with other reports I've heard regarding Hartzell Engine Technology
(PlanePower owner) customer service.
>
> So I spoke to B & C about their alternator. Yes, they offer repair service. Yes,
they'll overhaul or IRAN their alternator.
>
> I bought a B&C alternator and external controller at OSH. I'd be better off right
now if I'd just spent the extra money on a B&C in the first place.
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> A&P
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 960 hrs
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop governor failure - results of discussion with |
MT rep at OSH
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I agree that the service bulletin is misleading. However, while my
engine is pure stock, with 8.5:1 pistons and Bendix S1200 mags, MT both
acknowledged my MT governor was in the group subject to failure, even
though it is an 860-5, not an 860-3; and they performed the service
bulletin on it for me. My cost was only shipping. The revised governor
does have crisper control of rpm. Note that a significant portion of
both brands are manufactured at the same place, by the same company.
Kelly
On 7/31/2017 3:17 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> As some have noted, MT's service bulletin 31
> (http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/sbs/sb31.pdf) says the MT governor
> flyweight failure problem applies to engines "modified with electronic
> ignitions or higher compression pistons." At least one of the RVs that
> had an MT governor fail had dual magnetos and stock pistons. It's been
> reported on VAF that this has been brought to MT's attention. MT has not
> changed the service bulletin in the intervening months.
>
> Based on MT's unwillingness to honestly describe the failure condition
> in their service bulletin, I lost confidence in MT and pulled the MT
> governor from my plane in January. I replaced it with a PCU 5000, which
> has noticeably better performance than the MT governor (the PCU doesn't
> have the rpm hunting that the MT had).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop governor failure - results of discussion with MT |
re
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Kelley
When this debacle started I spoke to APS and confirmed that the PCU5000x and MT
governors have no parts in common. They are different designs. If I recall the
conversation correctly, when MT started with their own design, they also started
their own manufacturing.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471381#471381
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT prop governor failure - results of discussion with |
MT re
Talk to Myron, he gained much expertise from his debacle with governor
failure. MT originally did not make their own governor. My
understanding is that when they started making their own, that they
still purchase some of the parts from the Czech supplier that had been
producing them.
If you physically compare to PCU, they are extremely similar.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 6:59 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Kelley
>
> When this debacle started I spoke to APS and confirmed that the PCU5000x and
MT governors have no parts in common. They are different designs. If I recall
the conversation correctly, when MT started with their own design, they also started
their own manufacturing.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471381#471381
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Yes - mucho kurdos. It was a most enjoyable event with great attendance.
Hope to see you all next year. Even picked up a maintenance tip!
--------
See you OSH '17
Q/B - flying 7 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471396#471396
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I have a 8 year old RV10 (400hrs) set up for VFR with one Advanced Flight Systems
early (3500) EFIS. I arrived home from OSH to find a tax bill valuing my plane
at $180,000. I feel that the value is closer to $140K or $150K. Does anyone
out there have info on REAL sale prices that I can present to the assessor to
reflect the real value of my plane. (PS- I am insured for $150K)
--------
See you OSH '17
Q/B - flying 7 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471397#471397
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0148_992.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
Contact me off list and I should be able to help. I will need a lot more details,
of course, but I should be able to provide an appraisal.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:53 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> I have a 8 year old RV10 (400hrs) set up for VFR with one Advanced Flight Systems
early (3500) EFIS. I arrived home from OSH to find a tax bill valuing my
plane at $180,000. I feel that the value is closer to $140K or $150K. Does anyone
out there have info on REAL sale prices that I can present to the assessor
to reflect the real value of my plane. (PS- I am insured for $150K)
>
> --------
> See you OSH '17
> Q/B - flying 7 yrs.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471397#471397
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0148_992.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I would suggest contacting the EAA for assistance in arguments to use,
such as there are no two identical homebuilt aircraft, making it
impossible to have comparables. Sounds like someone took the current
quick build price, added new engine price and a typical modern avionics
price, plus a bunch for labor. I have an unpainted quick build, with
very full complement of IFR avionics, and I don't think I have much over
$150K in it. Depreciation on manufactured aircraft the first few years
is very steep. Compare the price of a 2005 Cirrus with a new one, for
example.
On 8/1/2017 11:17 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Contact me off list and I should be able to help. I will need a lot more details,
of course, but I should be able to provide an appraisal.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:53 AM, AirMike wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have a 8 year old RV10 (400hrs) set up for VFR with one Advanced Flight Systems
early (3500) EFIS. I arrived home from OSH to find a tax bill valuing my
plane at $180,000. I feel that the value is closer to $140K or $150K. Does anyone
out there have info on REAL sale prices that I can present to the assessor
to reflect the real value of my plane. (PS- I am insured for $150K)
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '17
>> Q/B - flying 7 yrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471397#471397
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0148_992.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
I have advised other builders to be proactive in filing their sales tax
relating to the recent FAA registration of their 'flivver'. Not an RV-10
or Cessna 172 but 'flivver'.
In FL (where I live) the FL department of revenue gets new registration
information from the FAA. Then they check to see if you paid sales tax
related to the airplane (which you should retain a copy of) whether it's
a homebuilt or certified airplane. If they don't find payment of sales
tax, they open their recent copy of Trade-a-plane and look up the model
(RV-10) that is on the FAA registration and send a bill for the 'asking
price' it finds .... and I bet if there are two listings, they pick the
higher dollar one. They'll never find a 'flivver' in TAP. Then you get
the 'nastygram' requesting your payment of tax, interest, and penalties.
So, what's a person to do if you're not proactive? You can collect
copies bills of sale for the kit , engine, avionics and submit some % of
that total to your sales tax people with a check for your share of the
tax and that will usually be the end of it. You can usually under-pay
some but those guys aren't stupid and you may get a second letter
because you shaved too much off. If they can't find a value for the
'flivver' you registered then you'll have a lot of leeway ..... but you
might have to substantiate that value or get an appraisal from your A&P.
When I register my plane (hopefully next year) it'll have a nebulous
model such as 'LINN model X' or some sort, and I'll be proactive in
paying some sales tax. Also, remember that Van doesn't support your
bird being registered as an RV-(X) if you made some major mods.
Linn
On 8/1/2017 11:53 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I have a 8 year old RV10 (400hrs) set up for VFR with one Advanced Flight Systems
early (3500) EFIS. I arrived home from OSH to find a tax bill valuing my
plane at $180,000. I feel that the value is closer to $140K or $150K. Does anyone
out there have info on REAL sale prices that I can present to the assessor
to reflect the real value of my plane. (PS- I am insured for $150K)
>
> --------
> See you OSH '17
> Q/B - flying 7 yrs.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471397#471397
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0148_992.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I don't know about NV, but typical property taxes are around 1%, so ask yourself
how much effort and pain you want to put in for $300 a year. You don't say what
or if you paid last year - you certainly don't want to open up a can of worms.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471411#471411
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: Vertical Power VP-200 Control Unit and Switch Panel |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
FEDEX lost my display unit after a repair so I'm replacing the entire VP-200 system.
CU - $1035
SP - $250
shipping included to US locations.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471429#471429
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop governor failure - results of discussion with MT |
re
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
So if anyone is interested, I'm selling a brand new MT P860-3 prop gov for $950.
It was never installed so has 0 hours and was built in 2016 so is unaffected
by SB 31.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471439#471439
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2017_01_08_090710_1928481_869.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Langley <klangley1(at)mygrande.net> |
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
Sorry Bob,
I realized I sent to you instead of Mike. I'll send to him.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 1, 2017, at 5:57 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> I don't know about NV, but typical property taxes are around 1%, so ask yourself
how much effort and pain you want to put in for $300 a year. You don't say
what or if you paid last year - you certainly don't want to open up a can of
worms.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471411#471411
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
That's okay. I thought you were him and sent you the reply I meant for him, if
the email had been from him!
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471455#471455
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Cost is $3k for lights and tips.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471456#471456
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Is that the north of the border price? I was quoted 2200.
On 8/2/2017 6:39 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Cost is $3k for lights and tips.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471456#471456
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Cost is $3k for lights and tips.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471457#471457
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Aveo Conforma Zip Tips |
Yikes, that's up there, but they do look great.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 3 Aug 2017, at 11:16, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Cost is $3k for lights and tips.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471457#471457
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
A chap on the local field is wrapping his RV with vinyl rather using paint
Has anyone done this with a -10. If so was the result as expected? I'd be interested
in knowing how long it took and what the cost was.
I have tried contacting Aircraft Wraps in Florida but haven't been able to get
them to return a call.
Also, recommendations on a shop to see would be useful.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471509#471509
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint vs Wrap |
I have seen one and wasn't impressed. It looked great online and in person it
was a different story. Kinda like online dating........so I've been told. :)
I don't know what the weight difference between the two would be, but I saw enough
of the wrapped plane to know it's not anywhere close to a good (or even bad)
paint job. And I can't imagine its any lighter than paint.
I suppose they'd be fine for accents and stripes, etc. But a full wrap leaves
a whole lot to be desired....... unless you're just looking to attract attention
online and not really let people see it in person. :)
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 5, 2017, at 1:35 AM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> A chap on the local field is wrapping his RV with vinyl rather using paint
>
> Has anyone done this with a -10. If so was the result as expected? I'd be interested
in knowing how long it took and what the cost was.
>
> I have tried contacting Aircraft Wraps in Florida but haven't been able to get
them to return a call.
>
> Also, recommendations on a shop to see would be useful.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471509#471509
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint vs Wrap |
I'd have to agree wholeheartedly. The ones that I've seen don't rival even a poor
paint job. For accent stripes, great, but anytime you plan to wrap it around
something like the Cowl inlets, it's going to look like crap. The most I would
do with vinyl is paint the airplane a single solid color, and then throw on
vinyl striping. For that, it could be pretty nice. Especially for the N number,
if you are like a buddy of mine who would really love to change his and number.
Wink wink L.
Tim
> On Aug 5, 2017, at 10:00 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>
> I have seen one and wasn't impressed. It looked great online and in person
it was a different story. Kinda like online dating........so I've been told.
:)
>
> I don't know what the weight difference between the two would be, but I saw enough
of the wrapped plane to know it's not anywhere close to a good (or even
bad) paint job. And I can't imagine its any lighter than paint.
>
> I suppose they'd be fine for accents and stripes, etc. But a full wrap leaves
a whole lot to be desired....... unless you're just looking to attract attention
online and not really let people see it in person. :)
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 5, 2017, at 1:35 AM, kearney wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> A chap on the local field is wrapping his RV with vinyl rather using paint
>>
>> Has anyone done this with a -10. If so was the result as expected? I'd be interested
in knowing how long it took and what the cost was.
>>
>> I have tried contacting Aircraft Wraps in Florida but haven't been able to get
them to return a call.
>>
>> Also, recommendations on a shop to see would be useful.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471509#471509
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Hanaway <tomhanaway1(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint vs Wrap |
Yeah L.
;)
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 5, 2017, at 12:14 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I'd have to agree wholeheartedly. The ones that I've seen don't rival even a
poor paint job. For accent stripes, great, but anytime you plan to wrap it around
something like the Cowl inlets, it's going to look like crap. The most I
would do with vinyl is paint the airplane a single solid color, and then throw
on vinyl striping. For that, it could be pretty nice. Especially for the N number,
if you are like a buddy of mine who would really love to change his and
number. Wink wink L.
>
> Tim
>
>> On Aug 5, 2017, at 10:00 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have seen one and wasn't impressed. It looked great online and in person
it was a different story. Kinda like online dating........so I've been told.
:)
>>
>> I don't know what the weight difference between the two would be, but I saw
enough of the wrapped plane to know it's not anywhere close to a good (or even
bad) paint job. And I can't imagine its any lighter than paint.
>>
>> I suppose they'd be fine for accents and stripes, etc. But a full wrap leaves
a whole lot to be desired....... unless you're just looking to attract attention
online and not really let people see it in person. :)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Aug 5, 2017, at 1:35 AM, kearney wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> A chap on the local field is wrapping his RV with vinyl rather using paint
>>>
>>> Has anyone done this with a -10. If so was the result as expected? I'd be
interested in knowing how long it took and what the cost was.
>>>
>>> I have tried contacting Aircraft Wraps in Florida but haven't been able to
get them to return a call.
>>>
>>> Also, recommendations on a shop to see would be useful.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Les
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471509#471509
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint vs Wrap |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I wasn't impressed by the wraps either. Looks great on pictures. Still have to
paint it or at least prime it and every unevenness in that shows through the vinyl.
And yeah N numbers are easier to change if they are not painted on with one color
and two different shadows. But who changes N numbers anyway :)
And who is this L. guy? :)
tomhanaway wrote:
>
> Yeah L.
> ;)
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> > On Aug 5, 2017, at 12:14 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > I'd have to agree wholeheartedly. The ones that I've seen don't rival even
a poor paint job. For accent stripes, great, but anytime you plan to wrap it
around something like the Cowl inlets, it's going to look like crap. The most
I would do with vinyl is paint the airplane a single solid color, and then throw
on vinyl striping. For that, it could be pretty nice. Especially for the
N number, if you are like a buddy of mine who would really love to change his
and number. Wink wink L.
> >
> > Tim
> >
>
>
--------
Lenny Iszak
Palm City, FL
2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471523#471523
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint vs Wrap |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hmmm,
I don't know how we got to online dating from a thread on aircraft wrapping but
I supposed that is a topic for another thread.
I appreciate the comments. I may try to check out examples that have been done
by an aircraft wrap shop. I need to find a paint alternative as there are no paint
shops near where I am..
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471525#471525
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint vs Wrap |
So what do you prime it with?? 8^))
Do you do a prime and base coat, or a two step epoxy primer without a base coat?
Or can you just polish the bare aluminum and wrap that.
Which brand and type of primer? It has to be at least 10 years since
the last primer wars. ;-)
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 12:32 PM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> I wasn't impressed by the wraps either. Looks great on pictures. Still have to
paint it or at least prime it and every unevenness in that shows through the
vinyl.
> And yeah N numbers are easier to change if they are not painted on with one color
and two different shadows. But who changes N numbers anyway :)
> And who is this L. guy? :)
>
>
> tomhanaway wrote:
>>
>> Yeah L.
>> ;)
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>> > On Aug 5, 2017, at 12:14 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I'd have to agree wholeheartedly. The ones that I've seen don't rival even
a poor paint job. For accent stripes, great, but anytime you plan to wrap it
around something like the Cowl inlets, it's going to look like crap. The most
I would do with vinyl is paint the airplane a single solid color, and then throw
on vinyl striping. For that, it could be pretty nice. Especially for the
N number, if you are like a buddy of mine who would really love to change his
and number. Wink wink L.
>> >
>> > Tim
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --------
> Lenny Iszak
> Palm City, FL
> 2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
>
> _-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint vs Wrap |
I maintain a -10 that is wrapped. It is not as nice as paint, probably, although
I have not seen it after being washed, which would make a difference. The compound
curves would be really hard, and the one I'm talking about has a painted
cowl. I think you would be happier with paint.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 5, 2017, at 1:35 AM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> A chap on the local field is wrapping his RV with vinyl rather using paint
>
> Has anyone done this with a -10. If so was the result as expected? I'd be interested
in knowing how long it took and what the cost was.
>
> I have tried contacting Aircraft Wraps in Florida but haven't been able to get
them to return a call.
>
> Also, recommendations on a shop to see would be useful.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471509#471509
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | GPS antenna mounting |
I would like to ask, of those who mounted your GPS antenna on the
cabin top, are you getting the performance from it that you expected?
Did you install a ground plane? Also, what screws did you use to mount
it. I have been looking for some MS24693-C286 screws and am not coming
up with anything. Thanks.
Ed Godfrey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
I have been very happy with my performance so far. The only thing I wish I had
considered was installing them under the glass cabin top and inside my overhead
air console. It would have been nice to not ouch a hole in the top of the
plane and also protect the antenna from the WX and UV; hopefully extending the
life of the antenna and rescuing another leak point to seal up.
But the top has served me well to this point. Others might be able to comment
on the performance inside the overhead air (if you have it). Just something
to consider.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 6, 2017, at 11:42 AM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
>
> I would like to ask, of those who mounted your GPS antenna on the cabin top,
are you getting the performance from it that you expected? Did you install
a ground plane? Also, what screws did you use to mount it. I have been looking
for some MS24693-C286 screws and am not coming up with anything. Thanks.
>
> Ed Godfrey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I look at GPS antenna location based on the purpose and approval basis
of the antenna. For my GTN650 to meet IFR performance standards, I
mounted on cabin top with the recommended ground plane (partly sheet
metal, partly aluminum foil) per Garmin instructions. For the GPS that
drives my EFIS display, I mounted it in front of the firewall, perhaps
10", underneath the cowling. If mounting GPS antenna to drive ADS-B
out, I would try to follow manufacturer's recommendations.
The Garmin needs a better view of the sky and takes longer to lock on
than my Dynon, but it has more required validation to perform.
On 8/6/2017 9:42 AM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
> I would like to ask, of those who mounted your GPS antenna on the
> cabin top, are you getting the performance from it that you expected?
> Did you install a ground plane? Also, what screws did you use to mount
> it. I have been looking for some MS24693-C286 screws and am not coming
> up with anything. Thanks.
>
> Ed Godfrey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I mounted mine on top of the skin, a foot behind the baggage bulkhead:
1. This area has metal skin so the ground plane is there. I did use a doubler.
2. My 420W required a certain MINIMUM coax run, so there was no "extra" coax involved
in this location.
3. My guess was that there was slightly less drag in this location (top of the
cabin is convex which will speed up the airflow a bit).
Works fine.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471558#471558
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
I did exactly the same thing Bob Turner did. Works great.
David Maib
> On Aug 6, 2017, at 7:43 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> I mounted mine on top of the skin, a foot behind the baggage bulkhead:
> 1. This area has metal skin so the ground plane is there. I did use a doubler.
> 2. My 420W required a certain MINIMUM coax run, so there was no "extra" coax
involved in this location.
> 3. My guess was that there was slightly less drag in this location (top of the
cabin is convex which will speed up the airflow a bit).
>
> Works fine.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471558#471558
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
Bob and David,
I was considering putting it back there, but I ran into issues
with the separation of the GPS antenna, a comm antenna and the ELT antenna.
Ed
On 8/6/2017 7:09 PM, David Maib wrote:
>
> I did exactly the same thing Bob Turner did. Works great.
>
> David Maib
>
>
>> On Aug 6, 2017, at 7:43 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>>
>> I mounted mine on top of the skin, a foot behind the baggage bulkhead:
>> 1. This area has metal skin so the ground plane is there. I did use a doubler.
>> 2. My 420W required a certain MINIMUM coax run, so there was no "extra" coax
involved in this location.
>> 3. My guess was that there was slightly less drag in this location (top of the
cabin is convex which will speed up the airflow a bit).
>>
>> Works fine.
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471558#471558
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
A few weeks ago, I discovered that I had a small brake fluid leak on the left brake
of the pilot's side. It was on the upper (low pressure) port of the cylinder,
and very small - probably less than a drop a day. I tightened the nut on
the hose going to the elbow and that didn't seem to help, so I rotated the elbow
another 360 degrees clockwise and that seemed to do the trick (though NPT
threads mean I can't just tighten indiscriminately - I have to be careful not
to over tighten, though it has to end up pointing upwards).
In any event, I thought the problem was solved, but about a week ago I saw there
was still some slight seepage. It hasn't been enough to cause a noticeable
drip (at least not yet), but if I run my finger along the bottom lip of the cylinder,
it comes away with a bit of brake fluid residue. And I noticed something
similar on the copilot's side brakes too just recently, though they seemed
dry before. Maybe the higher temperatures of summer caused a few things to resize
a bit.
In any case, I'm hesitant to just tighten all the fittings another 360 turn since
I don't want to over tighten them and have the master cylinders crack. The
seepage isn't when the brakes are used - at least, I can't detect any leaks specifically
caused by putting pressure on the pedals. It's just that when the
plane sits in the hangar for a few days, I can see residue building up. The
current rate of seepage is so small (probably several days for one drop of brake
fluid) that I don't really worry about having the reservoir run out between
annuals or oil changes (I'm checking it every time I change oil and remove the
top cowl and it doesn't seem to noticeably decrease).
Is this something that anyone else has seen? I can live with it by just wiping
down the cylinders every week or two. But in the effort to make things perfect,
does anyone have any suggestions? I know Van's recommends strongly to not
use Teflon tape on the fittings. I'm pretty sure I used Boelube at the time,
though that was several years ago. Does its effectivity diminish over time?
I can easily remove all the fittings and put more Boelube on the NPT threads
if that likely help fix the problem, though the necessity of my having to re-bleed
the brake lines after that disassembly gives me pause, especially since I
think I used Boelube in the first place so I'm not sure it would help in the
long term anyway.
Everything is built exactly according to Van's plans, using the hoses, etc. they
provided with the kit. I know lots of people use stainless braided hoses everywhere,
but the problem seems to stem from the elbow fitting, not the hoses.
Any suggestions?
Thanks! Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
Use the liquid teflon sealants...that will do the trick. I think I use loctite
567 but the stuff you can buy at the auto parts store or farm and barn will do
just fine.
It's NOT the same as using teflon tape.
Tim
> On Aug 6, 2017, at 8:16 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
>
> A few weeks ago, I discovered that I had a small brake fluid leak on the left
brake of the pilot's side. It was on the upper (low pressure) port of the cylinder,
and very small - probably less than a drop a day. I tightened the nut
on the hose going to the elbow and that didn't seem to help, so I rotated the
elbow another 360 degrees clockwise and that seemed to do the trick (though NPT
threads mean I can't just tighten indiscriminately - I have to be careful not
to over tighten, though it has to end up pointing upwards).
>
> In any event, I thought the problem was solved, but about a week ago I saw there
was still some slight seepage. It hasn't been enough to cause a noticeable
drip (at least not yet), but if I run my finger along the bottom lip of the
cylinder, it comes away with a bit of brake fluid residue. And I noticed something
similar on the copilot's side brakes too just recently, though they seemed
dry before. Maybe the higher temperatures of summer caused a few things to
resize a bit.
>
> In any case, I'm hesitant to just tighten all the fittings another 360 turn since
I don't want to over tighten them and have the master cylinders crack. The
seepage isn't when the brakes are used - at least, I can't detect any leaks
specifically caused by putting pressure on the pedals. It's just that when
the plane sits in the hangar for a few days, I can see residue building up. The
current rate of seepage is so small (probably several days for one drop of
brake fluid) that I don't really worry about having the reservoir run out between
annuals or oil changes (I'm checking it every time I change oil and remove
the top cowl and it doesn't seem to noticeably decrease).
>
> Is this something that anyone else has seen? I can live with it by just wiping
down the cylinders every week or two. But in the effort to make things perfect,
does anyone have any suggestions? I know Van's recommends strongly to not
use Teflon tape on the fittings. I'm pretty sure I used Boelube at the time,
though that was several years ago. Does its effectivity diminish over time?
I can easily remove all the fittings and put more Boelube on the NPT threads
if that likely help fix the problem, though the necessity of my having to re-bleed
the brake lines after that disassembly gives me pause, especially since
I think I used Boelube in the first place so I'm not sure it would help in the
long term anyway.
>
> Everything is built exactly according to Van's plans, using the hoses, etc. they
provided with the kit. I know lots of people use stainless braided hoses
everywhere, but the problem seems to stem from the elbow fitting, not the hoses.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks! Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Dan
I used this with great success.
https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-80632-Thread-Sealant-PTFE/dp/B000HBNTGY/ref=sr_1_7/136-4197055-7816439?ie=UTF8&qid=1502073596&sr=8-7&keywords=permatex+thread+sealant
I had a similar issue where *apparently* I had a leak on the lower fitting of a
cylinder in the starboard side. I did everything I could to fix it. As it turns
out the leak was on the reservoir fitting that was spritzing small amounts
of fluid onto the fitting. Talk about looking in the wrong place!
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ flying
C-GROK some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471574#471574
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
As others said: Boelube is a lubricant. You want a pipe thread sealant. Apply sparingly,
not on the first thread. You should have used a thread sealant on all
your pipe threads (not teflon tape).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471577#471577
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My ELT is 4 or 5 feet further aft, and I have no com antennas on top, so separation
from com antennas may be a concern.
Ed Godfrey wrote:
> Bob and David,
> I was considering putting it back there, but I ran into issues
> with the separation of the GPS antenna, a comm antenna and the ELT antenna.
>
> Ed
>
> On 8/6/2017 7:09 PM, David Maib wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I did exactly the same thing Bob Turner did. Works great.
> >
> > David Maib
> >
> >
> > > On Aug 6, 2017, at 7:43 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I mounted mine on top of the skin, a foot behind the baggage bulkhead:
> > > 1. This area has metal skin so the ground plane is there. I did use a doubler.
> > > 2. My 420W required a certain MINIMUM coax run, so there was no "extra" coax
involved in this location.
> > > 3. My guess was that there was slightly less drag in this location (top of
the cabin is convex which will speed up the airflow a bit).
> > >
> > > Works fine.
> > >
> > > --------
> > > Bob Turner
> > > RV-10 QB
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471558#471558
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471578#471578
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
Whoops - I misspoke. It wasn't Boelube I used on my pipe threads. I had the name
on the brain because I'd recently used it to lubricate the piano hinge pins
that go into the cowling.
I can't recall exactly, but I think the stuff I used was EZ Turn Fuel lube (described
as a lubricant/sealant).. it's in a tube and *very* gooey and sticky
:-) ... not the Boelube that's blue, in a little jar, and oily.
But with that said, it may not be the best product for the job. A thread sealant
paste like Loctite 567 or Permatex 80632 as suggested here probably would be
better suited. Just so long as it can handle brake fluid properly.
Thanks, everyone!
Dan
> On 2017-Aug-06, at 10:10 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> As others said: Boelube is a lubricant. You want a pipe thread sealant. Apply
sparingly, not on the first thread. You should have used a thread sealant on
all your pipe threads (not teflon tape).
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471577#471577
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
Fuel lube is almost as bad. It's not a question of when it will leak, but
more like when. It's a ticketing time bomb if you are using it as a thr
ead sealant.
I use a permatex thread sealant and haven't had any issues.
Get Outlook for iOS
_____________________________
From: Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com<mailto:dan(at)syz.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 1:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders
om>>
Whoops - I misspoke. It wasn't Boelube I used on my pipe threads. I had the
name on the brain because I'd recently used it to lubricate the piano hing
e pins that go into the cowling.
I can't recall exactly, but I think the stuff I used was EZ Turn Fuel lube
(described as a lubricant/sealant).. it's in a tube and *very* gooey and st
icky :-) ... not the Boelube that's blue, in a little jar, and oily.
But with that said, it may not be the best product for the job. A thread se
alant paste like Loctite 567 or Permatex 80632 as suggested here probably w
ould be better suited. Just so long as it can handle brake fluid properly.
Thanks, everyone!
Dan
> On 2017-Aug-06, at 10:10 PM, Bob Turner > wrote:
>
lto:bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>>
>
> As others said: Boelube is a lubricant. You want a pipe thread sealant. A
pply sparingly, not on the first thread. You should have used a thread seal
ant on all your pipe threads (not teflon tape).
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471577#471577
>
>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
I started getting air in my lines that I couldn't keep out recently. I'd bleed
the brakes but very soon there was some air in the lines. I removed the pilot
sides master cylinders and put the copilot ones in their place. Seems to have
fixed the problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
My comm antennas are on the belly. My ELT antenna is closer to the GPS antenna
than recommended. I've not had any discernible issues at all.
David Maib
> On Aug 7, 2017, at 12:22 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> My ELT is 4 or 5 feet further aft, and I have no com antennas on top, so separation
from com antennas may be a concern.
>
>
>
> Ed Godfrey wrote:
>> Bob and David,
>> I was considering putting it back there, but I ran into issues
>> with the separation of the GPS antenna, a comm antenna and the ELT antenna.
>>
>> Ed
>>
>>> On 8/6/2017 7:09 PM, David Maib wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I did exactly the same thing Bob Turner did. Works great.
>>>
>>> David Maib
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Aug 6, 2017, at 7:43 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I mounted mine on top of the skin, a foot behind the baggage bulkhead:
>>>> 1. This area has metal skin so the ground plane is there. I did use a doubler.
>>>> 2. My 420W required a certain MINIMUM coax run, so there was no "extra" coax
involved in this location.
>>>> 3. My guess was that there was slightly less drag in this location (top of
the cabin is convex which will speed up the airflow a bit).
>>>>
>>>> Works fine.
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Bob Turner
>>>> RV-10 QB
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471558#471558
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471578#471578
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
| From: | "fdombroski" <frankdombroski(at)gmail.com> |
I buried my GTN antenna in the cabin top above the access plate in the overhead
console. Works flawlessly, no cutting of the outside skin necessary.
Cheers,
Frank
--------
Frank Dombroski
Multiple Offender RV-8, 7A, 10 x 2
RV-10 2.0 N46VT 2015
KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471587#471587
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
ELT interference complaints are normally with com radios not GPS. 1st
generation ELTs (designed circa 1973-75) were especially bad about being
plagued by responding to strong broadcast signals, such as being near
TV, radio stations, which would actually excite the oscillator in the
ELT, rebroadcasting just enough signal to break squelch and interfere
with reception and squelch on VHF com frequencies. My previous plane had
this when all rod antennas (com, ELT and Loran) were on top of fuselage.
Once Loran was eliminated and one com was moved to belly, almost all of
problem went away. I do not know how much improvement has been designed
into 2nd generation 121.5 or 406 ELTs.
On 8/7/2017 6:31 AM, David Maib wrote:
>
> My comm antennas are on the belly. My ELT antenna is closer to the GPS antenna
than recommended. I've not had any discernible issues at all.
>
> David Maib
>
>
>> On Aug 7, 2017, at 12:22 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>>
>> My ELT is 4 or 5 feet further aft, and I have no com antennas on top, so separation
from com antennas may be a concern.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
Frank
It sounds a good idea but in that case the antenna cable will be hanging from the
ceiling, or better said, from the access plate. Isn't that so?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 07/08/2017, s 14:35, fdombroski escreveu:
>
> I buried my GTN antenna in the cabin top above the access plate in the overhead
console. Works flawlessly, no cutting of the outside skin necessary.
> Cheers,
> Frank
>
> --------
> Frank Dombroski
> Multiple Offender RV-8, 7A, 10 x 2
> RV-10 2.0 N46VT 2015
> KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471587#471587
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: Vertical Power VP-200 Control Unit and Switch Panel |
| From: | "Mike Whisky" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi Todd
I sent you a PM I'm interested
Regards
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471599#471599
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Meeting with the assessor tomorrow. Can anyone tell me what their tax assessment
is? ??? (assessed valuation) plus a short summary of their equipment and interior/exterior.
120K
130K
160K
Any info would me helpful
--------
See you OSH '17
Q/B - flying 7 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471604#471604
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John MacCallum" <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
I have had trouble with leaks in my Brake lines as well. The Co-Pilots Master Cylinders
were leaking from the nipple joints.
I followed the recommended practise of using a torque wrench set to the appropriate
torque in conjunction with some Loctite thread sealant.
Either I didn't put enough loctite on or the stuff that I used was old?
I ended up re-installing the nipples on both sides with Permatex 56521. I might
add that it also solved the fuel leak problems that
I had with the Fuel pressure Sender and the fuel drain plugs in the wings.
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV 10 # 41016
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ibspud(at)roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, 7 August 2017 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders
I started getting air in my lines that I couldn't keep out recently. I'd bleed
the brakes but very soon there was some air in the lines. I removed the pilot
sides master cylinders and put the copilot ones in their place. Seems to have
fixed the problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
| From: | "fdombroski" <frankdombroski(at)gmail.com> |
The antenna is flush with the inside surface, and the TNC is a 90 degree fitting.
there is no clearance issue. The antenna and filler consume the void tightly,
and a ground plate covers the inside skin cut out.
Here is a photo prior to the ground/mount plate installation.
Best,
Frank
--------
Frank Dombroski
Multiple Offender RV-8, 7A, 10 x 2
RV-10 2.0 N46VT 2015
KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471613#471613
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1461681089840_139.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
Frank,
That's a clever use of what seems like wasted volume, but please consider
that the thickness of the cabin top provides a structural function. Are
you taking some measures to reinforce the compromised area, like a cover
plate that acts as a doubler, or additional plies below the antenna? Of
course we can do what we want, but it sure seems to me like that mod gives
up some crash worthiness.
--Dave
On Tue, Aug 8, 2017 at 5:50 AM, fdombroski wrote:
>
> The antenna is flush with the inside surface, and the TNC is a 90 degree
> fitting. there is no clearance issue. The antenna and filler consume the
> void tightly, and a ground plate covers the inside skin cut out.
>
> Here is a photo prior to the ground/mount plate installation.
>
> Best,
> Frank
>
> --------
> Frank Dombroski
> Multiple Offender RV-8, 7A, 10 x 2
> RV-10 2.0 N46VT 2015
> KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471613#471613
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/1461681089840_139.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My -10:
A/W certificate in May 2011. All new (avionics, engine) at that time.
Current assessed value (CA) $155K. I think that's about right.
Exterior paint: do-it-yourself, quality is poor if you get within 20 feet
Interior: basic/bare, spray painted ceilings, no insulation, no window trim.
(These two items tend to drive used prices)
Avionics: Full IFR but last generation (e.g., GPS is 420W, not 650). GRT HX, HS;
Dynon D6 backup; GArmin 420W, SL30; Trio Pro autopilot; Trig TT22 transponder;
home made audio panel. Skyradar D2 for ADSB-in.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471630#471630
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)MSN.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: If anyone can help - Aircraft value |
Sounds about right. I had $150k on mine but should have had $180k because I greatly
upgraded the radios. Insure it for what you have in it and then pray you
never have to collect like I did.
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 8, 2017, at 2:48 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> My -10:
> A/W certificate in May 2011. All new (avionics, engine) at that time.
> Current assessed value (CA) $155K. I think that's about right.
> Exterior paint: do-it-yourself, quality is poor if you get within 20 feet
> Interior: basic/bare, spray painted ceilings, no insulation, no window trim.
> (These two items tend to drive used prices)
> Avionics: Full IFR but last generation (e.g., GPS is 420W, not 650). GRT HX,
HS; Dynon D6 backup; GArmin 420W, SL30; Trio Pro autopilot; Trig TT22 transponder;
home made audio panel. Skyradar D2 for ADSB-in.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471630#471630
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I mounted the antenna for my G430w on the top - no ground plane was
specified. Works perfectly at all times. It also seals up easily with
a bit of silicon sealant used as a gasket. Very unobtrusive.
I chose not to try and get fancy with the WAAS antenna since it is
critical to IFR operations. A talk by a local radio shop convinced me
further on that point.
I have a lot of extra cable for the short run but understand that the
whole system is tuned and no cable should be removed. So there is a big
coil of cable under my hood.
On 8/6/2017 12:42 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
> I would like to ask, of those who mounted your GPS antenna on the
> cabin top, are you getting the performance from it that you expected?
> Did you install a ground plane? Also, what screws did you use to mount
> it. I have been looking for some MS24693-C286 screws and am not coming
> up with anything. Thanks.
>
> Ed Godfrey
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Gust Lock Reviews |
Does anyone have any feedback on the Anti-Splat gust lock for the RV-10?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/gustlocks05-12368.php?clickkey=4469
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5NvoygYcc8
Most specifically, any feedback on how it works/fits with the infinity
grips where the sticks had to be cut down to minimum length to fit under
the panel...
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4us(at)gmail.com> |
I have it with Infinity grips and if works as advertised. I didn't make any mods
to the stick or panel.
--------
Todd Stovall
aka Auburntsts on EAA, AOPA, and VAF
RV-10 N728TT -- Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471682#471682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
Phil,
Tim Olson has pretty good instructions on his web site to make your
own. I mostly followed his instructions, although I had to make a few
parts differently as I have Paul Grimstead's Rudder pedal system. I
have AntiSplat cowl flaps, and all his products are a bit spendy for
what they are.
Kelly
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 12:11 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Does anyone have any feedback on the Anti-Splat gust lock for the RV-10?
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/gustlocks05-12368.php?clickkey=4469
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5NvoygYcc8
>
> Most specifically, any feedback on how it works/fits with the infinity grips
> where the sticks had to be cut down to minimum length to fit under the
> panel...
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I use the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar as a control (all 3 axes) gust
lock. Works fine, no extra weight since I take the tow bar everywhere anyway.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471686#471686
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna mounting |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Not sure I'd use the word "tuned". The extra coax is there just for its loss, since
at these frequencies no coax is perfect.
Seems Garmin bought an OEM antenna and put their name on it, but the antenna has
too much gain for the receiver, hence the need for some attenuation or loss
in the coax.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471687#471687
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Hoppe <bruce.hoppe(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
I have the Antisplat Aero gust lock. It is easy to install and works well.
Connects to control stick several inches below the stick grip. A gage is i
ncluded, which tells you where to mount the attachment bracket on the curved
part of the stick. I do not see how it could interfere with any stick grip
.
Bruce Hoppe
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 2:11 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any feedback on the Anti-Splat gust lock for the RV-10?
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/gustlocks05-12368.php?clickk
ey=4469
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5NvoygYcc8
>
> Most specifically, any feedback on how it works/fits with the infinity gri
ps where the sticks had to be cut down to minimum length to fit under the pa
nel...
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
Bill,
That's very similar to what I was thinking of making. Does it hold the stick
well in roll also?
My cargo strap around the taillight for a rudder lock isn't very professional looking,
but it works great.
Thanks,
Marcus
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 10:05 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
>
> I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Yes, it holds the stick and the rudder pedals. I have a #8 screw with a castellated
nut that protrudes through the front web that secures the end of the gust
lock from lateral movement. You can see it in the photos. Total cost under
$10.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471701#471701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
Sorry no picture. I have a PVC model that is an "H". One of my first locks
tied in the stick and it failed when I needed it the most and I got rudder
damage. So I use the "H" pvc for the rudder and seat belt for the Stick.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 7:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
| From: | "civengpe" <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
I built the PVC gust lock and have been happy with the results as well. Mine looks
exactly like the one above, except it doesn't lock the stick. It just goes
straight back and wedges on the back wall of the foot well. I use the seat
belt for the stick.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471709#471709
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
I 'll second Bill's comments wrt the gust lick.
Works very well
Rick
C-GDMH
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 11:02 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it holds the stick and the rudder pedals. I have a #8 screw with a castellated
nut that protrudes through the front web that secures the end of the gust
lock from lateral movement. You can see it in the photos. Total cost under
$10.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471701#471701
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I'm using the Bogey Bar as well. It's a mandatory item for moving the
plane around and just happens to work perfectly as a gust lock. It
seems almost 'tuned' to the RV10 in the sense that it jams down in front
of the seat cushion and fits into the rudder pedals without modification.
I used it for a while as is, then added two welded tabs to insure that
is stays jammed in the rudder pedals. Here's some more info:
Bogi Tow Bar as Control Lock
<http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2223&log 0875&row=1>
On 8/9/2017 8:04 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> I use the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar as a control (all 3 axes) gust
lock. Works fine, no extra weight since I take the tow bar everywhere anyway.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471686#471686
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
I made my gust lock similar to all the ones shown out of PVC and an extendab
le paint roller pole. The ends fit into the top of the break pedals and wor
k as a parking break when installed. A small Velcro strap holds the stick t
ight against the assembly. The whole thing holds the breaks, rudder, elevat
or and ailerons when installed.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 2:48 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> I'm using the Bogey Bar as well. It's a mandatory item for moving the pla
ne around and just happens to work perfectly as a gust lock. It seems almos
t 'tuned' to the RV10 in the sense that it jams down in front of the seat cu
shion and fits into the rudder pedals without modification.
>
> I used it for a while as is, then added two welded tabs to insure that is s
tays jammed in the rudder pedals. Here's some more info:
> Bogi Tow Bar as Control Lock
>
>
>> On 8/9/2017 8:04 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>> I use the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar as a control (all 3 axes)
gust lock. Works fine, no extra weight since I take the tow bar everywhere a
nyway.
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471686#471686
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pump - replacement |
I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow.
Has anyone replaced theirs?
What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap it
out?
How much cussing does it require?
It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and
getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like
to not fit with it for days.
Thanks,
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump - replacement |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Phil,
My RV14 came with a pump that ended up having an SB on it so I replaced
it under warranty.
http://www.myrv14.com/N14YT/maintenance/20170408/index.html
There are some tips there for you. It's both a real pain in the butt,
and also
not too bad, all at the same time. You won't need to drain the oil, but
you should have a new gasket or two on hand. It does require at least
10 minutes of cussing, or it isn't a project. More than 2 hours worth
gets you extra points.
Check out that link. That may be all you need. The safety wire trick was
invaluable.
Tim
On 8/10/2017 9:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow.
Has anyone replaced theirs?
>
> What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap
it out?
>
> How much cussing does it require?
>
> It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and
getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like
to not fit with it for days.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump - replacement |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
You want clear access to the area, which may mean removing scat tubing
around the oil cooler and the mufflers. You will need to hold the
plunger up while you insert the new pump. Then hold pump in place while
getting the first allen screw in place. Oh, yeah, you also need all the
fuel lines clear of the area. No, you do not need to drain oil.
Degree of difficulty depends on how clear your access is. I've done the
swap on back of IO-360 in a Mooney. Same pump, tighter firewall clearance.
On 8/10/2017 7:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow.
Has anyone replaced theirs?
>
> What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap
it out?
>
> How much cussing does it require?
>
> It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and
getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like
to not fit with it for days.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump - replacement |
The safety wire trick to put the plunger in a bind and hold it in place is
the way to go. I replaced my (O-320) pump a year or two ago, and it was very
easy. Probably a 30 minute job once I had all of the parts and tools on
hand...
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel pump - replacement
Phil,
My RV14 came with a pump that ended up having an SB on it so I replaced
it under warranty.
http://www.myrv14.com/N14YT/maintenance/20170408/index.html
There are some tips there for you. It's both a real pain in the butt,
and also
not too bad, all at the same time. You won't need to drain the oil, but
you should have a new gasket or two on hand. It does require at least
10 minutes of cussing, or it isn't a project. More than 2 hours worth
gets you extra points.
Check out that link. That may be all you need. The safety wire trick was
invaluable.
Tim
On 8/10/2017 9:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump
> tomorrow. Has anyone replaced theirs?
>
> What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to
> swap it out?
>
> How much cussing does it require?
>
> It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the
> plunger and getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would
> help. I'd like to not fit with it for days.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump - replacement |
| From: | Dilson <dilsonfrota(at)gmail.com> |
Hi
It would be fantastic if I knew the safety wire trick. Despite that I
was very, very careful being sure I had the lever under the pushrod.
I had a low fuel pressure while flying to Oshkosh this year. Had to
change the pump a field.
The Emergency Repair Shop located at the south near the ultralite area,
was invaluable helping me with tools and other amenities.
Dilson
Em 11/08/2017 00:35, kboatright1(at)comcast.net escreveu:
>
> The safety wire trick to put the plunger in a bind and hold it in
> place is the way to go. I replaced my (O-320) pump a year or two ago,
> and it was very easy. Probably a 30 minute job once I had all of the
> parts and tools on hand...
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 10:56 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel pump - replacement
>
>
> Phil,
>
> My RV14 came with a pump that ended up having an SB on it so I replaced
> it under warranty.
>
> http://www.myrv14.com/N14YT/maintenance/20170408/index.html
>
> There are some tips there for you. It's both a real pain in the butt,
> and also
> not too bad, all at the same time. You won't need to drain the oil, but
> you should have a new gasket or two on hand. It does require at least
> 10 minutes of cussing, or it isn't a project. More than 2 hours worth
> gets you extra points.
>
> Check out that link. That may be all you need. The safety wire trick was
> invaluable.
> Tim
>
>
> On 8/10/2017 9:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>> I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump
>> tomorrow. Has anyone replaced theirs?
>>
>> What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil
>> to swap it out?
>>
>> How much cussing does it require?
>>
>> It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the
>> plunger and getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips
>> would help. I'd like to not fit with it for days.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Phil
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid seeping from master cylinders |
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
The 2017 update to Van's chapter 5 instructions gives a good treatment
of NPT fitting sealing:
"Because we cannot always fully tighten tapered thread fittings, and
because even after fully tightening the fitting a small spiral leak path
remains along the full length of threads, a thread sealant must be used
during assembly. Sealants appropriate for use on aircraft NPT fittings
areTite-seal, Permatex #2 and Locktite 565. Do not use RTV, Teflon tape
or Fuel Lube on NPT fittings .
When installing the fitting, be sure the threads on both parts are clean
and dry since most sealants will not tolerate any oil contamination.
First determine the clocking position by installing it finger tight and
marking the desired clocking. Remove the fitting and apply a small
amount of sealant to 2 - 3 threads of the male fitting. Leave the first
2 bare to prevent contamination inside the fluid path. Remember, this is
an interference fit so not much sealant is required.
Thread the fitting in with your fingers until you just begin to feel
resistance and then an additional 1.5 - 2 turns. This is general
guidance... you must still use judgement to not over tighten and damage
the threads, but a properly insalled fitting is quite tight. If the
installation requires a specific clocking, when approaching the correct
position you must determine whether you will be able to make another
full rotation and still be within the 1.5 - 2 turns stopping range. You
must avoid turning the fitting backwards in the loosening direction
because it will have a high probability of leaking. If you must do this,
it is best to completely remove the fitting, clean up the threads on
both parts, and try again."
Source: http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-ALL_05.pdf
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 960 hrs
Dan Charrois wrote on 8/7/2017 1:40 AM:
>
> Whoops - I misspoke. It wasn't Boelube I used on my pipe threads. I had the
name on the brain because I'd recently used it to lubricate the piano hinge pins
that go into the cowling.
>
> I can't recall exactly, but I think the stuff I used was EZ Turn Fuel lube (described
as a lubricant/sealant).. it's in a tube and *very* gooey and sticky
:-) ... not the Boelube that's blue, in a little jar, and oily.
>
> But with that said, it may not be the best product for the job. A thread sealant
paste like Loctite 567 or Permatex 80632 as suggested here probably would
be better suited. Just so long as it can handle brake fluid properly.
>
> Thanks, everyone!
>
> Dan
>
>> On 2017-Aug-06, at 10:10 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>>
>> As others said: Boelube is a lubricant. You want a pipe thread sealant. Apply
sparingly, not on the first thread. You should have used a thread sealant on
all your pipe threads (not teflon tape).
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471577#471577
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pump - replacement |
I should add that this works best if you don't use the .032 safety wire, but instead
use the very fine stuff used to safety wire smaller screws and bolts.
You want something very fine. I have 3 sizes of safety wire in the hangar.
Just nice things to have when you do your own maintenance. You could probably
easily use telephone hookup wire or even a strand out of a network cable very
easily too.
Tim
> On Aug 11, 2017, at 7:16 AM, Dilson wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> It would be fantastic if I knew the safety wire trick. Despite that I was very,
very careful being sure I had the lever under the pushrod.
>
> I had a low fuel pressure while flying to Oshkosh this year. Had to change the
pump a field.
>
> The Emergency Repair Shop located at the south near the ultralite area, was invaluable
helping me with tools and other amenities.
>
> Dilson
>
>
> Em 11/08/2017 00:35, kboatright1(at)comcast.net escreveu:
>>
>> The safety wire trick to put the plunger in a bind and hold it in place is the
way to go. I replaced my (O-320) pump a year or two ago, and it was very easy.
Probably a 30 minute job once I had all of the parts and tools on hand...
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Tim Olson
>> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 10:56 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel pump - replacement
>>
>>
>> Phil,
>>
>> My RV14 came with a pump that ended up having an SB on it so I replaced
>> it under warranty.
>>
>> http://www.myrv14.com/N14YT/maintenance/20170408/index.html
>>
>> There are some tips there for you. It's both a real pain in the butt,
>> and also
>> not too bad, all at the same time. You won't need to drain the oil, but
>> you should have a new gasket or two on hand. It does require at least
>> 10 minutes of cussing, or it isn't a project. More than 2 hours worth
>> gets you extra points.
>>
>> Check out that link. That may be all you need. The safety wire trick was
>> invaluable.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 8/10/2017 9:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>>
>>> I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow.
Has anyone replaced theirs?
>>>
>>> What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap
it out?
>>>
>>> How much cussing does it require?
>>>
>>> It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger
and getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like
to not fit with it for days.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Phil
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
UPS should be here with the new pump (going w/a Tempest brand) here in a
few hours.
Before I commit to putting it on the engine and buying it outright, I
thought I'd run this by the gallery.
Earlier I was having a stumble when leaning rich of peak. Come to find
out, that was a heat related issue. Re-routing a fuel line moved the line
to a cooler part of the cowling and the engine has been running like a
sewing machine ever since.
However, I continue to have fluctuating fuel pressures in flight. Never
enough to put the PSI in the yellow, but it's certainly not consistent and
(In my amateur-built opinion) it's fluctuating more than it should.
1) I don't believe I have a sensor problem. Because I can kick on my
Andair pump and it stabilizes at 26.9 to 27.0 PSI and holds steady. Shut
it off and the fluctuation restarts.
2) I suspected an air leak on the suction side of the pump. But I
tightened every fitting from the tank to the boost pump. Then pressure
tested the fuel lines forward of the boost pump. No leaks found forward
of the pump and likely not any air leaks behind it after tightening.
3) I suspected heat was an issue. So I installed a blast tube on the
engine driven pump. (Cooling shroud is on order - BTW: Don't order one in
the summer time or the lead time is around 2 months because of demand.) It
didn't make a difference.
So I'm starting to run out of options aside from replacing the pump itself.
Last night I was zipping along through the sky and I decided to grab my
phone and shoot this video showing the pace and range of the fluctuation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weSIiM96Vv4
Before I commit to replacing the pump, I wanted to see if anyone else has
experienced a similar symptom.
Why might it be the pump? Well the engine did sit for 4-5 years before I
ever got the project to the point where I could start it. So it's
possible that one of the rubber check valves dried out inside the pump
allowing some fuel to leak by.
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Hey Phil,
That's interesting you had a change with re-routing the
line. I'm interested in how close it was to hot stuff.
The amount of fluctuation you have is pretty high.
If it doesn't end up being the pump, I'd be saying
it could be the sensor. I'd think that unless
there were a huge air leak you wouldn't see anything
that drastic.
I also bought a blast tube shroud at one point but
it's still in the box, never installed it. I think
the fuel pump swap would be a lot harder with adding
that.
I know that doesn't help, but just interested in what you
find. If the pump swap doesn't do it, I'd try a new
sensor. Or, stick a mechanical gauge on it I suppose.
Tim
On 8/11/2017 8:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> UPS should be here with the new pump (going w/a Tempest brand) here in a
> few hours.
>
> Before I commit to putting it on the engine and buying it outright, I
> thought I'd run this by the gallery.
>
> Earlier I was having a stumble when leaning rich of peak. Come to find
> out, that was a heat related issue. Re-routing a fuel line moved the
> line to a cooler part of the cowling and the engine has been running
> like a sewing machine ever since.
>
> However, I continue to have fluctuating fuel pressures in flight. Never
> enough to put the PSI in the yellow, but it's certainly not consistent
> and (In my amateur-built opinion) it's fluctuating more than it should.
>
> 1) I don't believe I have a sensor problem. Because I can kick on my
> Andair pump and it stabilizes at 26.9 to 27.0 PSI and holds steady.
> Shut it off and the fluctuation restarts.
>
> 2) I suspected an air leak on the suction side of the pump. But I
> tightened every fitting from the tank to the boost pump. Then pressure
> tested the fuel lines forward of the boost pump. No leaks found
> forward of the pump and likely not any air leaks behind it after tightening.
>
> 3) I suspected heat was an issue. So I installed a blast tube on the
> engine driven pump. (Cooling shroud is on order - BTW: Don't order one
> in the summer time or the lead time is around 2 months because of
> demand.) It didn't make a difference.
>
> So I'm starting to run out of options aside from replacing the pump itself.
>
> Last night I was zipping along through the sky and I decided to grab my
> phone and shoot this video showing the pace and range of the fluctuation.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weSIiM96Vv4
>
> Before I commit to replacing the pump, I wanted to see if anyone else
> has experienced a similar symptom.
>
> Why might it be the pump? Well the engine did sit for 4-5 years before
> I ever got the project to the point where I could start it. So it's
> possible that one of the rubber check valves dried out inside the pump
> allowing some fuel to leak by.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Variations with flight attitude are not uncommon. Fluctuations during
cruise are not normal. Hard to evaluate "in the yellow" as the actual
Lycoming specified numbers(from Operating Manual) are, for IO-540-A
series engines, 20 min. and 26 max. While the engine will run down to
around 14 psi, I'd rather not go there. I normally see 1-2 psi increase
with boost pump.
On 8/11/2017 6:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> UPS should be here with the new pump (going w/a Tempest brand) here in a
> few hours.
>
> Before I commit to putting it on the engine and buying it outright, I
> thought I'd run this by the gallery.
>
> Earlier I was having a stumble when leaning rich of peak. Come to find
> out, that was a heat related issue. Re-routing a fuel line moved the
> line to a cooler part of the cowling and the engine has been running
> like a sewing machine ever since.
>
> However, I continue to have fluctuating fuel pressures in flight. Never
> enough to put the PSI in the yellow, but it's certainly not consistent
> and (In my amateur-built opinion) it's fluctuating more than it should.
> 2) I suspected an air leak on the suction side of the pump. But I
> tightened every fitting from the tank to the boost pump. Then pressure
> tested the fuel lines forward of the boost pump. No leaks found
> forward of the pump and likely not any air leaks behind it after tightening.
>
> 3) I suspected heat was an issue. So I installed a blast tube on the
> engine driven pump. (Cooling shroud is on order - BTW: Don't order one
> in the summer time or the lead time is around 2 months because of
> demand.) It didn't make a difference.
>
> So I'm starting to run out of options aside from replacing the pump itself.
>
> Last night I was zipping along through the sky and I decided to grab my
> phone and shoot this video showing the pace and range of the fluctuation.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weSIiM96Vv4
>
> Before I commit to replacing the pump, I wanted to see if anyone else
> has experienced a similar symptom.
>
> Why might it be the pump? Well the engine did sit for 4-5 years before
> I ever got the project to the point where I could start it. So it's
> possible that one of the rubber check valves dried out inside the pump
> allowing some fuel to leak by.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
I agree with Tim. I don't think you have an air leak. I'm not
convinced you don't have a sensor problem. It looks worse than it
probably is because of the digital numbers at more precision than
needed. You really should have it stay around 23-25. The dips below 20
absent a nose up prolonged climb are a bit of a concern.
Kelly
On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Hey Phil,
>
> That's interesting you had a change with re-routing the
> line. I'm interested in how close it was to hot stuff.
> The amount of fluctuation you have is pretty high.
> If it doesn't end up being the pump, I'd be saying
> it could be the sensor. I'd think that unless
> there were a huge air leak you wouldn't see anything
> that drastic.
>
> On 8/11/2017 8:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>> UPS should be here with the new pump (going w/a Tempest brand) here in a
>> few hours.
>>
>> Before I commit to putting it on the engine and buying it outright, I
>> thought I'd run this by the gallery.
>>
>> Earlier I was having a stumble when leaning rich of peak. Come to find
>> out, that was a heat related issue. Re-routing a fuel line moved the line
>> to a cooler part of the cowling and the engine has been running like a
>> sewing machine ever since.
>>
>> However, I continue to have fluctuating fuel pressures in flight. Never
>> enough to put the PSI in the yellow, but it's certainly not consistent and
>> (In my amateur-built opinion) it's fluctuating more than it should.
>>
>> 1) I don't believe I have a sensor problem. Because I can kick on my
>> Andair pump and it stabilizes at 26.9 to 27.0 PSI and holds steady. Shut
>> it off and the fluctuation restarts.
>>mp? Well the engine did sit for 4-5 years before I
>> ever got the project to the point where I could start it. So it's possible
>> that one of the rubber check valves dried out inside the pump allowing some
>> fuel to leak by.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Phil
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
| From: | Dilson <dilsonfrota(at)gmail.com> |
Phil
Before changing my fuel pump I was experiencing about the same reading
you are having and the same kind of variation.
After the replacement, the pressure went up to around 30 PSI. But, the
fluctuating fuel pressure persist
I flew more than 40 hours now without a issue. My previous fuel pump had
just 200 hours on it
Rds
Dilson
Em 11/08/2017 10:42, Phillip Perry escreveu:
> UPS should be here with the new pump (going w/a Tempest brand) here in
> a few hours.
>
> Before I commit to putting it on the engine and buying it outright, I
> thought I'd run this by the gallery.
>
> Earlier I was having a stumble when leaning rich of peak. Come to find
> out, that was a heat related issue. Re-routing a fuel line moved the
> line to a cooler part of the cowling and the engine has been running
> like a sewing machine ever since.
>
> However, I continue to have fluctuating fuel pressures in flight.
> Never enough to put the PSI in the yellow, but it's certainly not
> consistent and (In my amateur-built opinion) it's fluctuating more
> than it should.
>
> 1) I don't believe I have a sensor problem. Because I can kick on my
> Andair pump and it stabilizes at 26.9 to 27.0 PSI and holds steady.
> Shut it off and the fluctuation restarts.
>
> 2) I suspected an air leak on the suction side of the pump. But I
> tightened every fitting from the tank to the boost pump. Then
> pressure tested the fuel lines forward of the boost pump. No leaks
> found forward of the pump and likely not any air leaks behind it after
> tightening.
>
> 3) I suspected heat was an issue. So I installed a blast tube on the
> engine driven pump. (Cooling shroud is on order - BTW: Don't order
> one in the summer time or the lead time is around 2 months because of
> demand.) It didn't make a difference.
>
> So I'm starting to run out of options aside from replacing the pump
> itself.
>
> Last night I was zipping along through the sky and I decided to grab
> my phone and shoot this video showing the pace and range of the
> fluctuation.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weSIiM96Vv4
>
> Before I commit to replacing the pump, I wanted to see if anyone else
> has experienced a similar symptom.
>
> Why might it be the pump? Well the engine did sit for 4-5 years
> before I ever got the project to the point where I could start it.
> So it's possible that one of the rubber check valves dried out inside
> the pump allowing some fuel to leak by.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Do you have a flow restrictor in your fuel pressure sensor fitting? The engine
driven pump puts out "heavier" pressure pulses than that electric one. The restrictor
helps dampen those. Some EFISs average out the fluctuations, some don't.
--------
Lenny Iszak
Palm City, FL
2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471748#471748
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
Yes. Restrictor installed at the pump.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 11, 2017, at 10:00 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
>
> Do you have a flow restrictor in your fuel pressure sensor fitting? The engine
driven pump puts out "heavier" pressure pulses than that electric one. The restrictor
helps dampen those. Some EFISs average out the fluctuations, some don't.
>
> --------
> Lenny Iszak
> Palm City, FL
> 2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471748#471748
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
I'm having some fluctuations when I turn on my electric pump. In talking w
ith Don Rivera, it's because the o-ring is sticking a bit, it builds up pre
ssure then releases. I'm seeing a single high spike, then drops to normal
almost instantaneously. It was tripping an audio alert, which became quick
ly annoying.
I didn't see these before I upgraded my efis using the same sensor. So the
new efis is more responsive in measuring sensor output than the old one.
Don recommended using a flow restrictor smaller than the one Vans provided
us in the kit to dampen the spike better. I haven't found a source yet.
I don't have the size handy, but could look it up if anyone is interested.
I'm not implying this has anything to do with Phil's issue. I'm just addin
g on to Lenny's comment about flow restrictors.
Bob
Get Outlook for iOS
_____________________________
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com<mailto:lenard(at)rapiddecision.com
>>
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2017 11:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question
ilto:lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>>
Do you have a flow restrictor in your fuel pressure sensor fitting? The eng
ine driven pump puts out "heavier" pressure pulses than that electric one.
The restrictor helps dampen those. Some EFISs average out the fluctuations,
some don't.
--------
Lenny Iszak
Palm City, FL
2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471748#471748
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
Quick Update....
UPS dropped the pump off at 10AM. By noon I had removed the old one and
put the new one on (mostly - minus safety wire and a couple of scat tubes
that need to be replaced). The safety wire tip was a great one and
worked like a champ. The only thing I'd add is to wait to put your
fittings on the pump after the pump is in position. It just gives you a
few more inches and angles to work with. I wish I had done that, but
didn't.
I wanted to do a ground run before I took the time to safety wire it and
replace the scat tubes. Mission accomplished.
The run-up initially showed lower fuel pressures, a stumbling engine, and a
desire to idle at an RPM much lower than normal (~500 RPM). It would have
died if I let it. I tried to purge the lines as best I could with the
purge valve, but it didn't get everything apparently. After a few minutes
of rough running though, the engine was ticking right along as expected.
Most of that was air in the lines I suspect since I had an empty pump, and
lines.
As far as noticeable changes, fuel pressure has taken a 25% leap forward;
increasing from 25 PSI on the old pump (at taxi) to 33 PSI on the new pump.
Now that it appears to work, I'll head back up there in a few hours and put
the rest of it back together and hopefully fly it this evening. Then I can
report in on cruise changes. But the indicators, at this point, show a
step in the right direction.
I did all this with a 7 year old boy and a 5 year old little girl in the
hangar. I bet I heard, "Daddy I want to buy a kitten" 150 times. In
combination with, "I'm ready for our dogs to die so we can get a kitten"
another 82.
I'm glad she was there to bug me as it eclipsed my frustration with the
pump replacement. If you're going to be replacing one of these, I'd
suggest bringing a 5 year old little girl to the hangar with you. If you
have one that is determined to get a kitten, then even better.
Hopefully I can report some in-flight observations later tonight.
Phil
On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 10:31 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> I'm having some fluctuations when I turn on my electric pump. In talking
> with Don Rivera, it's because the o-ring is sticking a bit, it builds up
> pressure then releases. I'm seeing a single high spike, then drops to
> normal almost instantaneously. It was tripping an audio alert, which
> became quickly annoying.
>
> I didn't see these before I upgraded my efis using the same sensor. So
> the new efis is more responsive in measuring sensor output than the old
> one.
>
> Don recommended using a flow restrictor smaller than the one Vans provided
> us in the kit to dampen the spike better. I haven't found a source yet.
> I don't have the size handy, but could look it up if anyone is interested.
>
> I'm not implying this has anything to do with Phil's issue. I'm just
> adding on to Lenny's comment about flow restrictors.
>
> Bob
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> _____________________________
> From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2017 11:13 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question
> To:
>
>
> Do you have a flow restrictor in your fuel pressure sensor fitting? The
> engine driven pump puts out "heavier" pressure pulses than that electric
> one. The restrictor helps dampen those. Some EFISs average out the
> fluctuations, some don't.
>
> --------
> Lenny Iszak
> Palm City, FL
> 2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471748#471748
>
>
> ==========
> -List" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
> x-apple-data-detectors-result="4"> http://www.matronics.com/
> Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> ta-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
> x-apple-data-detectors-result="5"> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> -detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
> x-apple-data-detectors-result="6"> http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========
> x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link"
> x-apple-data-detectors-result="7"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Well that's positive news. Surprised it actually makes that much
pressure. If they weren't so expensive I'd buy a Tempest just
to have on hand. I like spare parts. :)
The stuff on the kids is priceless. Hopefully you won't have to
have any dead dogs to get the kitten. That said, as a former
Cat owner and later Dog owner, I think she's going the wrong
direction. I'm sure half the list will want to beat me for this
but, Dogs rule. Try taking your cat on a flight sometime...
Looking forward to "The rest of the story". (Old Paul Harvey
reference). Geez, that dates me, doesn't it? Am I that old?
Tim
On 08/11/2017 01:19 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Quick Update....
>
> UPS dropped the pump off at 10AM. By noon I had removed the old one
> and put the new one on (mostly - minus safety wire and a couple of scat
> tubes that need to be replaced). The safety wire tip was a great one
> and worked like a champ. The only thing I'd add is to wait to put your
> fittings on the pump after the pump is in position. It just gives you
> a few more inches and angles to work with. I wish I had done that, but
> didn't.
>
> I wanted to do a ground run before I took the time to safety wire it and
> replace the scat tubes. Mission accomplished.
>
> The run-up initially showed lower fuel pressures, a stumbling engine,
> and a desire to idle at an RPM much lower than normal (~500 RPM). It
> would have died if I let it. I tried to purge the lines as best I
> could with the purge valve, but it didn't get everything apparently.
> After a few minutes of rough running though, the engine was ticking
> right along as expected. Most of that was air in the lines I suspect
> since I had an empty pump, and lines.
>
> As far as noticeable changes, fuel pressure has taken a 25% leap
> forward; increasing from 25 PSI on the old pump (at taxi) to 33 PSI on
> the new pump.
>
> Now that it appears to work, I'll head back up there in a few hours and
> put the rest of it back together and hopefully fly it this evening.
> Then I can report in on cruise changes. But the indicators, at this
> point, show a step in the right direction.
>
> I did all this with a 7 year old boy and a 5 year old little girl in the
> hangar. I bet I heard, "Daddy I want to buy a kitten" 150 times. In
> combination with, "I'm ready for our dogs to die so we can get a kitten"
> another 82.
>
> I'm glad she was there to bug me as it eclipsed my frustration with the
> pump replacement. If you're going to be replacing one of these, I'd
> suggest bringing a 5 year old little girl to the hangar with you. If
> you have one that is determined to get a kitten, then even better.
>
> Hopefully I can report some in-flight observations later tonight.
>
> Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
I didn't get a Tempest after all.
I put this Tempest pump in my basket several times: Model (LW15473)
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/TEMPESTfuelpumpLYC2.php?clickkey=57512
When I did it kept changing my order to this pump (LW15473)
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/contlycfuelpump.php
I just suspected it had something to do with ACS's ordering system. When
it came in, it was in a Lycoming box....
But it's working.... (apparently) Headed back to the airport in a bit to
put it together.
On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 1:52 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Well that's positive news. Surprised it actually makes that much
> pressure. If they weren't so expensive I'd buy a Tempest just
> to have on hand. I like spare parts. :)
>
> The stuff on the kids is priceless. Hopefully you won't have to
> have any dead dogs to get the kitten. That said, as a former
> Cat owner and later Dog owner, I think she's going the wrong
> direction. I'm sure half the list will want to beat me for this
> but, Dogs rule. Try taking your cat on a flight sometime...
> Looking forward to "The rest of the story". (Old Paul Harvey
> reference). Geez, that dates me, doesn't it? Am I that old?
> Tim
>
>
> On 08/11/2017 01:19 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>> Quick Update....
>>
>> UPS dropped the pump off at 10AM. By noon I had removed the old one and
>> put the new one on (mostly - minus safety wire and a couple of scat tubes
>> that need to be replaced). The safety wire tip was a great one and
>> worked like a champ. The only thing I'd add is to wait to put your
>> fittings on the pump after the pump is in position. It just gives you a
>> few more inches and angles to work with. I wish I had done that, but
>> didn't.
>>
>> I wanted to do a ground run before I took the time to safety wire it and
>> replace the scat tubes. Mission accomplished.
>>
>> The run-up initially showed lower fuel pressures, a stumbling engine, and
>> a desire to idle at an RPM much lower than normal (~500 RPM). It would
>> have died if I let it. I tried to purge the lines as best I could with
>> the purge valve, but it didn't get everything apparently. After a few
>> minutes of rough running though, the engine was ticking right along as
>> expected. Most of that was air in the lines I suspect since I had an empty
>> pump, and lines.
>>
>> As far as noticeable changes, fuel pressure has taken a 25% leap forward;
>> increasing from 25 PSI on the old pump (at taxi) to 33 PSI on the new pump.
>>
>> Now that it appears to work, I'll head back up there in a few hours and
>> put the rest of it back together and hopefully fly it this evening. Then I
>> can report in on cruise changes. But the indicators, at this point, show a
>> step in the right direction.
>>
>> I did all this with a 7 year old boy and a 5 year old little girl in the
>> hangar. I bet I heard, "Daddy I want to buy a kitten" 150 times. In
>> combination with, "I'm ready for our dogs to die so we can get a kitten"
>> another 82.
>>
>> I'm glad she was there to bug me as it eclipsed my frustration with the
>> pump replacement. If you're going to be replacing one of these, I'd
>> suggest bringing a 5 year old little girl to the hangar with you. If you
>> have one that is determined to get a kitten, then even better.
>>
>> Hopefully I can report some in-flight observations later tonight.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Hmm, restrictor's purpose is to prevent large flow if line fails, and
fuel pressure line is usually connected to the fuel servo, on opposite
side to the inlet screen. So the restrictor should be in between the
fuel pressure line connection on the engine end of the line going to the
fuel pressure sending unit. Is your fuel pressure line connected to a
fitting on the pump? You really want to know how much pressure is
internal in the fuel servo, not at the pump.
On 8/11/2017 8:12 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Yes. Restrictor installed at the pump.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 11, 2017, at 10:00 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>>
>>
>> Do you have a flow restrictor in your fuel pressure sensor fitting? The engine
driven pump puts out "heavier" pressure pulses than that electric one. The
restrictor helps dampen those. Some EFISs average out the fluctuations, some don't.
>>
>> --------
>> Lenny Iszak
>> Palm City, FL
>> 2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471748#471748
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
You got the Lycoming OEM pump at $387. The Tempest is P/N AF15473 at
$309, while Lycoming is LW15473. The page is misleading in that it shows
both Lycoming and Tempest in the same table under the Tempest label.
PMA parts always have a modification of the OEM part number, like
Superior parts will have an S in front of the Lycoming part number.
They can't sell PMA part under identical part number as OEM.
On 8/11/2017 1:35 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> I didn't get a Tempest after all.
>
> I put this Tempest pump in my basket several times: Model (LW15473)
> https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/TEMPESTfuelpumpLYC2.php?clickkey=57512
>
> When I did it kept changing my order to this pump (LW15473)
> https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/contlycfuelpump.php
>
> I just suspected it had something to do with ACS's ordering system.
> When it came in, it was in a Lycoming box....
>
> But it's working.... (apparently) Headed back to the airport in a bit
> to put it together.
>
> On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 1:52 PM, Tim Olson > wrote:
>
>
> Well that's positive news. Surprised it actually makes that much
> pressure. If they weren't so expensive I'd buy a Tempest just
> to have on hand. I like spare parts. :)
>
> The stuff on the kids is priceless. Hopefully you won't have to
> have any dead dogs to get the kitten. That said, as a former
> Cat owner and later Dog owner, I think she's going the wrong
> direction. I'm sure half the list will want to beat me for this
> but, Dogs rule. Try taking your cat on a flight sometime...
> Looking forward to "The rest of the story". (Old Paul Harvey
> reference). Geez, that dates me, doesn't it? Am I that old?
> Tim
>
>
>
>
> On 08/11/2017 01:19 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Quick Update....
>
> UPS dropped the pump off at 10AM. By noon I had removed the
> old one and put the new one on (mostly - minus safety wire and a
> couple of scat tubes that need to be replaced). The safety
> wire tip was a great one and worked like a champ. The only
> thing I'd add is to wait to put your fittings on the pump after
> the pump is in position. It just gives you a few more inches
> and angles to work with. I wish I had done that, but didn't.
>
> I wanted to do a ground run before I took the time to safety
> wire it and replace the scat tubes. Mission accomplished.
>
> The run-up initially showed lower fuel pressures, a stumbling
> engine, and a desire to idle at an RPM much lower than normal
> (~500 RPM). It would have died if I let it. I tried to purge
> the lines as best I could with the purge valve, but it didn't
> get everything apparently. After a few minutes of rough
> running though, the engine was ticking right along as expected.
> Most of that was air in the lines I suspect since I had an empty
> pump, and lines.
>
> As far as noticeable changes, fuel pressure has taken a 25% leap
> forward; increasing from 25 PSI on the old pump (at taxi) to 33
> PSI on the new pump.
>
> Now that it appears to work, I'll head back up there in a few
> hours and put the rest of it back together and hopefully fly it
> this evening. Then I can report in on cruise changes. But the
> indicators, at this point, show a step in the right direction.
>
> I did all this with a 7 year old boy and a 5 year old little
> girl in the hangar. I bet I heard, "Daddy I want to buy a
> kitten" 150 times. In combination with, "I'm ready for our dogs
> to die so we can get a kitten" another 82.
>
> I'm glad she was there to bug me as it eclipsed my frustration
> with the pump replacement. If you're going to be replacing one
> of these, I'd suggest bringing a 5 year old little girl to the
> hangar with you. If you have one that is determined to get a
> kitten, then even better.
>
> Hopefully I can report some in-flight observations later tonight.
>
> Phil
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
In that case, it's probably worth checking real quick to make sure that the L
ycoming pump is not covered by that service bulletin that caused me to repla
ce mine. They had some non-conforming parts. Lycoming was not very aggressiv
e at getting them replaced. I had to ask. I highly doubt that yours will be a
ffected,but it maybe worth looking up the serial number quick. The service b
ulletins old enough that I bet that aircraft Spruce would have checked them a
ll already.
Tim
> On Aug 11, 2017, at 3:35 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I didn't get a Tempest after all.
>
> I put this Tempest pump in my basket several times: Model (LW15473)
> https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/TEMPESTfuelpumpLYC2.php?cli
ckkey=57512
>
> When I did it kept changing my order to this pump (LW15473)
> https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/contlycfuelpump.php
>
> I just suspected it had something to do with ACS's ordering system. Whe
n it came in, it was in a Lycoming box....
>
> But it's working.... (apparently) Headed back to the airport in a bit to p
ut it together.
>
>> On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 1:52 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Well that's positive news. Surprised it actually makes that much
>> pressure. If they weren't so expensive I'd buy a Tempest just
>> to have on hand. I like spare parts. :)
>>
>> The stuff on the kids is priceless. Hopefully you won't have to
>> have any dead dogs to get the kitten. That said, as a former
>> Cat owner and later Dog owner, I think she's going the wrong
>> direction. I'm sure half the list will want to beat me for this
>> but, Dogs rule. Try taking your cat on a flight sometime...
>> Looking forward to "The rest of the story". (Old Paul Harvey
>> reference). Geez, that dates me, doesn't it? Am I that old?
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 08/11/2017 01:19 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>> Quick Update....
>>>
>>> UPS dropped the pump off at 10AM. By noon I had removed the old one an
d put the new one on (mostly - minus safety wire and a couple of scat tubes t
hat need to be replaced). The safety wire tip was a great one and worked l
ike a champ. The only thing I'd add is to wait to put your fittings on the p
ump after the pump is in position. It just gives you a few more inches and
angles to work with. I wish I had done that, but didn't.
>>>
>>> I wanted to do a ground run before I took the time to safety wire it and
replace the scat tubes. Mission accomplished.
>>>
>>> The run-up initially showed lower fuel pressures, a stumbling engine, an
d a desire to idle at an RPM much lower than normal (~500 RPM). It would ha
ve died if I let it. I tried to purge the lines as best I could with the p
urge valve, but it didn't get everything apparently. After a few minutes o
f rough running though, the engine was ticking right along as expected. Mos
t of that was air in the lines I suspect since I had an empty pump, and line
s.
>>>
>>> As far as noticeable changes, fuel pressure has taken a 25% leap forward
; increasing from 25 PSI on the old pump (at taxi) to 33 PSI on the new pump
.
>>>
>>> Now that it appears to work, I'll head back up there in a few hours and p
ut the rest of it back together and hopefully fly it this evening. Then I c
an report in on cruise changes. But the indicators, at this point, show a s
tep in the right direction.
>>>
>>> I did all this with a 7 year old boy and a 5 year old little girl in the
hangar. I bet I heard, "Daddy I want to buy a kitten" 150 times. In combi
nation with, "I'm ready for our dogs to die so we can get a kitten" another 8
2.
>>>
>>> I'm glad she was there to bug me as it eclipsed my frustration with the p
ump replacement. If you're going to be replacing one of these, I'd suggest
bringing a 5 year old little girl to the hangar with you. If you have one t
hat is determined to get a kitten, then even better.
>>>
>>> Hopefully I can report some in-flight observations later tonight.
>>>
>>> Phil
>>>
>>>
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
Mine is installed like Vans plans suggest. Photo attached.
Coming out of the pump there is a T. One leg goes forward to the servo.
The other leg has a restrictor fitting and the hose goes on up to the firewa
ll manifold where the pressure sensor is located.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 11, 2017, at 3:42 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> Hmm, restrictor's purpose is to prevent large flow if line fails, and fuel
pressure line is usually connected to the fuel servo, on opposite side to t
he inlet screen. So the restrictor should be in between the fuel pressure li
ne connection on the engine end of the line going to the fuel pressure sendi
ng unit. Is your fuel pressure line connected to a fitting on the pump? You r
eally want to know how much pressure is internal in the fuel servo, not at t
he pump.
>
>> On 8/11/2017 8:12 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>> Yes. Restrictor installed at the pump.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> On Aug 11, 2017, at 10:00 AM, Lenny Iszak wro
te:
>>>
>
>>>
>>> Do you have a flow restrictor in your fuel pressure sensor fitting? The e
ngine driven pump puts out "heavier" pressure pulses than that electric one.
The restrictor helps dampen those. Some EFISs average out the fluctuations,
some don't.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Lenny Iszak
>>> Palm City, FL
>>> 2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 300 hrs
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471748#471748
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Before the fuel pump exchange - one last question |
That could account for some of the fluctuation. Production planes
connect at the servo. I have to keep switching mind between factory
planes I've worked on and Van's somewhat different way of doing
things.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 2:21 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Mine is installed like Vans plans suggest. Photo attached.
>
> Coming out of the pump there is a T. One leg goes forward to the servo.
>
> The other leg has a restrictor fitting and the hose goes on up to the firewall
manifold where the pressure sensor is located.
>
> Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 11, 2017, at 3:42 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hmm, restrictor's purpose is to prevent large flow if line fails, and fuel pressure
line is usually connected to the fuel servo, on opposite side to the inlet
screen. So the restrictor should be in between the fuel pressure line connection
on the engine end of the line going to the fuel pressure sending unit.
Is your fuel pressure line connected to a fitting on the pump? You really want
to know how much pressure is internal in the fuel servo, not at the pump.
>>
>>> On 8/11/2017 8:12 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>> Yes. Restrictor installed at the pump.
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> On Aug 11, 2017, at 10:00 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Do you have a flow restrictor in your fuel pressure sensor fitting? The engine
driven pump puts out "heavier" pressure pulses than that electric one. The
restrictor helps dampen those. Some EFISs average out the fluctuations, some
don't.
>>>>
June 23, 2017 - August 11, 2017
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-mr