RV10-Archive.digest.vol-mt

October 14, 2017 - Present



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Subject: Re: Aerosport Overhead Consol
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Oct 14, 2017
Hi Dave I'd be interested in pix. I am not sure I can put a WAAS antenna in the console due to depth issues. It may be tight mounting with a 90 degree BNC connector. Cheers Les C-GCWZ Flying C-GROK Some assembly required Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473558#473558 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 14, 2017
Subject: Re: Aerosport Overhead Consol
Les, My concern is that the overhead is carbon fiber, which is not transparent to GPS, and the WAAS certified antennas are supposed to see some single digit angle to the horizon, and the fact that Cirrus, Cessna/Columbia and such aircraft put the antennas outside. Also, the depth of the overhead is such that you will likely need right angle TNC connectors. Check pricing on them. What you definitely do NOT want to do is hog out some of the foam core of the canopy. The canopy is structural and you and I don't know the design parameters of that structure. I don't know details, but I do know that one of the -10 fatalities was due to a collapsed canopy. I felt more comfortable about just making the hole for coax and attachment screws than something big enough to contain the antenna. Sealing the antenna to the canopy top is rather simple with aircraft RTV. -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 5:39 PM, kearney wrote: > > Hi Kelly > > If the fiberglass and non-metallic paint don't interfere with the GPS > signal, why not keep them safe and dry in the interior - and get a .00005kt > speed boost at no extra cost! > > Cheers > > Les > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473557#473557 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aerosport Overhead Consol
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 15, 2017
kearney wrote: > Hi Dave > > I'd be interested in pix. I am not sure I can put a WAAS antenna in the console due to depth issues. It may be tight mounting with a 90 degree BNC connector. > Here are some photos I have, hope they help. -------- Dave Ford RV6 for sale RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473573#473573 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aerosport Overhead Consol
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 15, 2017
I installed my 420W antenna externally, because of a (irrational?) fear that some over-zealous faa inspector (either initial a/w, or a ramp check) might complain that I had not followed the installation instructions, which are part of the TSO. I did put it back on the tailcone because Vans seemed so opposed to any holes in the cabin top. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473591#473591 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 16, 2017
Subject: Re: Aerosport Overhead Consol
I also put the GPS antennas on the tailcone directly aft of the fiberglass cabin top for two reasons. First reason was that I wanted to make sure I had a good ground plane, and I didn't want to mess with fabbing something up to fit in the overhead. Second, in IFR flight, I want EVERY possible advantage towards not having equipment failures or signal degradation. As unlikely as it may be, sticking the GPS antenna on the top was one less variable towards that goal. GPS pucks for non-ifr? I'd put those anywhere they get signal! On Sun, Oct 15, 2017 at 5:07 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > I installed my 420W antenna externally, because of a (irrational?) fear > that some over-zealous faa inspector (either initial a/w, or a ramp check) > might complain that I had not followed the installation instructions, which > are part of the TSO. I did put it back on the tailcone because Vans seemed > so opposed to any holes in the cabin top. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473591#473591 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aerosport Overhead Consol
From: "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2017
kearney wrote: > Hi Dave > > I'd be interested in pix. I am not sure I can put a WAAS antenna in the console due to depth issues. It may be tight mounting with a 90 degree BNC connector. > Les, The antenna ends up nearly touching the underside of the cabin top and is essentially as high as you can get without being outside of the aircraft but did require the 90 deg fitting. -------- Dave Ford RV6 for sale RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473639#473639 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org>
Date: Oct 17, 2017
Subject: Pitot mast tie down clearance
Hi guys, Has anyone had tie down rope clearance issues when mounting the pitot mast on the inboard side of the rib just outboard of the aileron bellcrank? That's a bit of a tongue twister, so here's a picture that shows what I'm talking about (pitot is outboard side of bellcrank): https://tinyurl.com/y76l4cq3 Thanks, David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2017
Subject: Re: Pitot mast tie down clearance
I=99ve only got a few hours on mine and noticed it in a recent trip. I t really depends on the width of the tie down points. If they=99re n arrow, then yeah. If they=99re wide, then no. But if I moved the mast outboard I=99d still have problems at those pl aces too. So it=99s as broad as it is long. I don=99t think it=99s worth the trouble to reinvent a location a nd move it from the standard location. Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 17, 2017, at 5:25 PM, David Carr wrote: > > Hi guys, > > Has anyone had tie down rope clearance issues when mounting the pitot mast on the inboard side of the rib just outboard of the aileron bellcrank? > > That's a bit of a tongue twister, so here's a picture that shows what I'm t alking about (pitot is outboard side of bellcrank): > https://tinyurl.com/y76l4cq3 > > Thanks, > David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2017
Subject: Re: Pitot mast tie down clearance
I did the same....pitot is one bay further out. Tim > On Oct 17, 2017, at 5:57 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I=99ve only got a few hours on mine and noticed it in a recent trip. It really depends on the width of the tie down points. If they=99 re narrow, then yeah. If they=99re wide, then no. > > But if I moved the mast outboard I=99d still have problems at those p laces too. So it=99s as broad as it is long. > > I don=99t think it=99s worth the trouble to reinvent a locatio n and move it from the standard location. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Oct 17, 2017, at 5:25 PM, David Carr wrote: >> >> Hi guys, >> >> Has anyone had tie down rope clearance issues when mounting the pitot mas t on the inboard side of the rib just outboard of the aileron bellcrank? >> >> That's a bit of a tongue twister, so here's a picture that shows what I'm talking about (pitot is outboard side of bellcrank): >> https://tinyurl.com/y76l4cq3 >> >> Thanks, >> David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot mast tie down clearance
Date: Oct 17, 2017
Mine are in the standard location and I=99ve never had any tie down clearance issues in 9 years and nearly 1000 hours. Narrow or wide doesn=99t seem to make a difference. I figured Van=99s had flight tested the prototype with the pitot in that location, so the odds of having pitot/static accuracy issues would be minimized if I followed the plans on that particular issue. David Maib 40559 985 hours On Oct 17, 2017, at 6:57 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: I=99ve only got a few hours on mine and noticed it in a recent trip. It really depends on the width of the tie down points. If they=99re narrow, then yeah. If they=99re wide, then no. But if I moved the mast outboard I=99d still have problems at those places too. So it=99s as broad as it is long. I don=99t think it=99s worth the trouble to reinvent a location and move it from the standard location. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 17, 2017, at 5:25 PM, David Carr > wrote: > Hi guys, > > Has anyone had tie down rope clearance issues when mounting the pitot mast on the inboard side of the rib just outboard of the aileron bellcrank? > > That's a bit of a tongue twister, so here's a picture that shows what I'm talking about (pitot is outboard side of bellcrank): > https://tinyurl.com/y76l4cq3 > > Thanks, > David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2017
Subject: Re: Pitot mast tie down clearance
It=99s not an accuracy issue. It=99s the rope running into the p itot tube of the tie down points on the ground are narrow.... Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 17, 2017, at 8:00 PM, David Maib wrote: > > Mine are in the standard location and I=99ve never had any tie down c learance issues in 9 years and nearly 1000 hours. Narrow or wide doesn =99t seem to make a difference. I figured Van=99s had flight tested th e prototype with the pitot in that location, so the odds of having pitot/sta tic accuracy issues would be minimized if I followed the plans on that parti cular issue. > > David Maib > 40559 > 985 hours > > On Oct 17, 2017, at 6:57 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I=99ve only got a few hours on mine and noticed it in a recent trip. It really depends on the width of the tie down points. If they=99 re narrow, then yeah. If they=99re wide, then no. > > But if I moved the mast outboard I=99d still have problems at those p laces too. So it=99s as broad as it is long. > > I don=99t think it=99s worth the trouble to reinvent a locatio n and move it from the standard location. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Oct 17, 2017, at 5:25 PM, David Carr wrote: >> >> Hi guys, >> >> Has anyone had tie down rope clearance issues when mounting the pitot mas t on the inboard side of the rib just outboard of the aileron bellcrank? >> >> That's a bit of a tongue twister, so here's a picture that shows what I'm talking about (pitot is outboard side of bellcrank): >> https://tinyurl.com/y76l4cq3 >> >> Thanks, >> David > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot mast tie down clearance
Date: Oct 17, 2017
I understand the issue. Just putting in my $.02 worth and stating why I made the decision at the time. David Maib On Oct 17, 2017, at 9:08 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: It=99s not an accuracy issue. It=99s the rope running into the pitot tube of the tie down points on the ground are narrow.... Sent from my iPhone On Oct 17, 2017, at 8:00 PM, David Maib > wrote: > Mine are in the standard location and I=99ve never had any tie down clearance issues in 9 years and nearly 1000 hours. Narrow or wide doesn=99t seem to make a difference. I figured Van=99s had flight tested the prototype with the pitot in that location, so the odds of having pitot/static accuracy issues would be minimized if I followed the plans on that particular issue. > > David Maib > 40559 > 985 hours > > On Oct 17, 2017, at 6:57 PM, Phillip Perry > wrote: > > I=99ve only got a few hours on mine and noticed it in a recent trip. It really depends on the width of the tie down points. If they=99re narrow, then yeah. If they=99re wide, then no. > > But if I moved the mast outboard I=99d still have problems at those places too. So it=99s as broad as it is long. > > I don=99t think it=99s worth the trouble to reinvent a location and move it from the standard location. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 17, 2017, at 5:25 PM, David Carr > wrote: > >> Hi guys, >> >> Has anyone had tie down rope clearance issues when mounting the pitot mast on the inboard side of the rib just outboard of the aileron bellcrank? >> >> That's a bit of a tongue twister, so here's a picture that shows what I'm talking about (pitot is outboard side of bellcrank): >> https://tinyurl.com/y76l4cq3 >> >> Thanks, >> David > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2017
From: "Kent Ogden" <ogdenk(at)upstate.edu>
Subject: Grounding question
All, I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the battery. I have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel 2 part primer, which is awesome stuff though it's a smelly pain to work with. All skin overlaps have been primed on both sides of the overlap, and this stuff is not conductive at all so the only electrical path is through the rivets and the small area of the rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. On the outside of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with the unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is minimal area in electrical contact. I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the battery may not provide an excellent ground path, especially for the large currents needed for engine cranking. I would really rather not have to run another heavy wire to the front of the airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) using the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people connected the battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a piece of brass or copper buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or something like that? Thanks for any suggestions! Kent Ogden #40710 ultra slow-build :) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Bose Headsets Available
If anyone's interested in a couple Bose headsets (for the backseaters maybe?) I have an ad on Barnstormers. --Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
I used a forest of tabs mounted to my firewall with a #2 (I think) cable run from there all the way back to the battery ground in the tailcone. I'm not sure if it was overkill, but I have had zero issues so far. I think the plans ground path is through the skin to the battery tray where you ground the battery. http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx Shannon On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Kent Ogden wrote: > All, > > I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the battery. I > have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel 2 part primer, which > is awesome stuff though it's a smelly pain to work with. All skin overlaps > have been primed on both sides of the overlap, and this stuff is not > conductive at all so the only electrical path is through the rivets and the > small area of the rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. > On the outside of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with the > unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is minimal area in > electrical contact. > > I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the battery may > not provide an excellent ground path, especially for the large currents > needed for engine cranking. I would really rather not have to run another > heavy wire to the front of the airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. > > Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) using > the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people connected the > battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a piece of brass or copper > buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or something like that? > > Thanks for any suggestions! > > Kent Ogden > #40710 ultra slow-build :) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Ditto Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote: > > I used a forest of tabs mounted to my firewall with a #2 (I think) cable r un from there all the way back to the battery ground in the tailcone. I'm n ot sure if it was overkill, but I have had zero issues so far. > > I think the plans ground path is through the skin to the battery tray wher e you ground the battery. > > http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx > > Shannon > >> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Kent Ogden wrote: >> All, >> >> I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the battery. I ha ve primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel 2 part primer, which is awesome stuff though it's a smelly pain to work with. All skin overlaps ha ve been primed on both sides of the overlap, and this stuff is not conductiv e at all so the only electrical path is through the rivets and the small are a of the rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. On the out side of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with the unprimed sk in so it's really the inside skin where there is minimal area in electrical c ontact. >> >> I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the battery may n ot provide an excellent ground path, especially for the large currents neede d for engine cranking. I would really rather not have to run another heavy w ire to the front of the airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. >> >> Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) using t he skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people connected the batte ry ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a piece of brass or copper buss b ar riveted to the bottom skin or something like that? >> >> Thanks for any suggestions! >> >> Kent Ogden >> #40710 ultra slow-build :) >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Kent, There are so many rivets making metal-on-metal contact that I can't imagine there'd be any problem, even with primed skins. If you want a more of a one-piece conductor, you could use one of the long stringers as a return with a flexible conductor on each end. I like braided ground straps <http://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-EGS8-Professional-Engine-Ground/dp/B0016HPX4O/ref=sr_1_1?srs=16926415011&ie=UTF8&qid=1508427886&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+strap#Ask>. Mine is bolted to a vertical member of the baggage floor just forward of the battery. --Dave On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 8:27 AM, Kent Ogden wrote: > All, > > I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the battery. I > have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel 2 part primer, which > is awesome stuff though it's a smelly pain to work with. All skin overlaps > have been primed on both sides of the overlap, and this stuff is not > conductive at all so the only electrical path is through the rivets and the > small area of the rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. > On the outside of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with the > unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is minimal area in > electrical contact. > > I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the battery may > not provide an excellent ground path, especially for the large currents > needed for engine cranking. I would really rather not have to run another > heavy wire to the front of the airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. > > Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) using > the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people connected the > battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a piece of brass or copper > buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or something like that? > > Thanks for any suggestions! > > Kent Ogden > #40710 ultra slow-build :) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding question
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
+1. I ran an independent #2 ground. That said, with the number of rivets in the airframe I'm sure you'll be fine as long as you ground to something with a lot of rivets in it. I just wanted as low a resistance path to my forest of tabs as possible. Tim On 10/19/2017 10:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: > Ditto > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Shannon Hicks > wrote: > >> I used a forest of tabs mounted to my firewall with a #2 (I think) >> cable run from there all the way back to the battery ground in the >> tailcone. I'm not sure if it was overkill, but I have had zero issues >> so far. >> >> I think the plans ground path is through the skin to the battery tray >> where you ground the battery. >> >> http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx >> >> Shannon >> >> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Kent Ogden > > wrote: >> >> All, >> >> I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the >> battery. I have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel >> 2 part primer, which is awesome stuff though it's a smellypain to >> work with. All skin overlaps have been primed on both sides of >> the overlap, and this stuff is not conductive at all so the only >> electrical path is through the rivets and the small area of the >> rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. On the >> outside of the planethe rivet heads have contact directly with >> the unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is >> minimal area in electrical contact. >> >> I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the >> battery may not provide an excellent ground path, especially for >> the large currents needed for engine cranking. I would really >> rather not have to run another heavy wire to the front of the >> airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. >> >> Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) >> using the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people >> connected the battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a >> piece of brass or copper buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or >> something like that? >> >> Thanks for any suggestions! >> >> Kent Ogden >> #40710 ultra slow-build :) >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Date: Oct 19, 2017
I originally ran a #2 wire to the firewall forest of tabs, then realized how much it weighs, promptly ripped it all out and grounded the battery to the battery tray/bellcrank mount (F-1035). It worked out great. I think its more important that you ground everything else to a single point like the forest of tabs on the firewall. I have my tail strobe locally grounded at the end of the tail and it's making a slight audible noise. Everything else is quiet. Lenny > On Oct 19, 2017, at 11:58 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > > +1. I ran an independent #2 ground. > > That said, with the number of rivets in the airframe I'm sure you'll be fine as long as you ground to something with a lot of rivets in it. > I just wanted as low a resistance path to my forest of tabs as > possible. > > Tim > > > On 10/19/2017 10:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: >> Ditto >> Sent from my iPhone >> On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Shannon Hicks > wrote: >>> I used a forest of tabs mounted to my firewall with a #2 (I think) cable run from there all the way back to the battery ground in the tailcone. I'm not sure if it was overkill, but I have had zero issues so far. >>> >>> I think the plans ground path is through the skin to the battery tray where you ground the battery. >>> >>> http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx >>> >>> Shannon >>> >>> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Kent Ogden > wrote: >>> >>> All, >>> >>> I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the >>> battery. I have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel >>> 2 part primer, which is awesome stuff though it's a smelly pain to >>> work with. All skin overlaps have been primed on both sides of >>> the overlap, and this stuff is not conductive at all so the only >>> electrical path is through the rivets and the small area of the >>> rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. On the >>> outside of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with >>> the unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is >>> minimal area in electrical contact. >>> >>> I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the >>> battery may not provide an excellent ground path, especially for >>> the large currents needed for engine cranking. I would really >>> rather not have to run another heavy wire to the front of the >>> airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. >>> >>> Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) >>> using the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people >>> connected the battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a >>> piece of brass or copper buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or >>> something like that? >>> >>> Thanks for any suggestions! >>> >>> Kent Ogden >>> #40710 ultra slow-build :) >>> >>> >>> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
I used the same Akzo Noble primer on my RV-10, all skins are primed including both sides of all lap joints. ( This primer is amazing stuff, does stink like all heck, but really tough and protective. Weve used this on the eight airplanes we have built now over more than 20 years now, and can say it has held up extremely well.) I did not run a separate #2 wire up to the front. All ground current for the starter, alternator and engine sensors flows back through the airframe. I do have a #8 ground wire running from the battery to a ground bus up under the instrument panel solely for the avionics. I have absolutely no electrical issues or noise problems in this airplane. Bob Newman TCW Technologies, LLC 610-928-3420 > On Oct 19, 2017, at 11:58 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > > +1. I ran an independent #2 ground. > > That said, with the number of rivets in the airframe I'm sure you'll be fine as long as you ground to something with a lot of rivets in it. > I just wanted as low a resistance path to my forest of tabs as > possible. > > Tim > > >> On 10/19/2017 10:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: >> Ditto >> Sent from my iPhone >>> On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Shannon Hicks > wrote: >>> I used a forest of tabs mounted to my firewall with a #2 (I think) cable run from there all the way back to the battery ground in the tailcone. I'm not sure if it was overkill, but I have had zero issues so far. >>> >>> I think the plans ground path is through the skin to the battery tray where you ground the battery. >>> >>> http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx >>> >>> Shannon >>> >>> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Kent Ogden > wrote: >>> >>> All, >>> >>> I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the >>> battery. I have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel >>> 2 part primer, which is awesome stuff though it's a smelly pain to >>> work with. All skin overlaps have been primed on both sides of >>> the overlap, and this stuff is not conductive at all so the only >>> electrical path is through the rivets and the small area of the >>> rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. On the >>> outside of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with >>> the unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is >>> minimal area in electrical contact. >>> >>> I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the >>> battery may not provide an excellent ground path, especially for >>> the large currents needed for engine cranking. I would really >>> rather not have to run another heavy wire to the front of the >>> airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. >>> >>> Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) >>> using the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people >>> connected the battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a >>> piece of brass or copper buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or >>> something like that? >>> >>> Thanks for any suggestions! >>> >>> Kent Ogden >>> #40710 ultra slow-build :) >>> >>> >>> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Navworx
I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice that they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again. Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Navworx
I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice that they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again. Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Navworx
I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice that they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again. Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phil Yoder <phil(at)philyoder.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Navworx
You don=99t have to have 5.0 software. You can use my AMOC to be tot ally legal. Phil On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 1:15 PM Sheldon Olesen wrote: > > I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice > that they have ceased operations. > > I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was > waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable > again. Does anyone have the required software? > > Sheldon Olesen > N475PV 888hrs > > Sent from my iPad > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > -- Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthatcomplex.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Navworx
Date: Oct 19, 2017
You can use the 480 AMOC that I worked on with Phil Yoder. That will make you legal using the current software release with the 480. The three AMOCs that we created cover the entire certified Garmin GPS famil y. The AMOCS can downloaded from AOPA. The gotcha are bugs, like not being able to send traffic on both display po rts. That was supposed to be fixed in 5.0. I've the AMOCs as a stop gap to buy some time and to afford the replacement solution. Get Outlook for iOS ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic s.com> on behalf of Sheldon Olesen Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2017 1:08:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Navworx I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice th at they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was w aiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again . Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Navworx
I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice that they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again. Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Navworx
I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice that they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again. Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Navworx
I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice that they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again. Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Navworx
I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice that they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again. Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding question
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
The airframe has plenty of surface area to carry any amount of current you will use. Running a separate cable from the battery to firewall central grounding point is a totally wasted effort. Strobes are a bit different animal if you are talking the old capacitive discharge into a flash tube variety. They do generate noise that is hard to totally suppress. LED strobes don't seem to do that. I have electrical system from battery to VPX system built to plans, with grounding cable to frame , in front of battery box. I have LED nav lights and strobes, all grounded locally, along with Vans landing lights grounded locally. The central grounding is essential for electronics that amplify noises such as intercoms, nav coms etc. It is unnecessary for resistive electrical loads, as they don't generate RF noise. My previous aircraft was a Mooney that was built with full zinc chromate primer, mostly non-structural skin, and chrome-moly tube frame, with battery behind baggage compartment. It was just fine with ground wire to airframe at battery. Cessna does the same. On 10/19/2017 9:35 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote: > > I originally ran a #2 wire to the firewall forest of tabs, then realized how much it weighs, promptly ripped it all out and grounded the battery to the battery tray/bellcrank mount (F-1035). It worked out great. > R > I think its more important that you ground everything else to a single point like the forest of tabs on the firewall. I have my tail strobe locally grounded at the end of the tail and it's making a slight audible noise. Everything else is quiet. > > Lenny > >> On Oct 19, 2017, at 11:58 AM, Tim Olson wrote: >> >> >> +1. I ran an independent #2 ground. >> >> That said, with the number of rivets in the airframe I'm sure you'll be fine as long as you ground to something with a lot of rivets in it. >> I just wanted as low a resistance path to my forest of tabs as >> possible. >> >> Tim >> >> >> On 10/19/2017 10:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: >>> Ditto >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Shannon Hicks > wrote: >>>> I used a forest of tabs mounted to my firewall with a #2 (I think) cable run from there all the way back to the battery ground in the tailcone. I'm not sure if it was overkill, but I have had zero issues so far. >>>> >>>> I think the plans ground path is through the skin to the battery tray where you ground the battery. >>>> >>>> http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx >>>> >>>> Shannon >>>> >>>> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Kent Ogden > wrote: >>>> >>>> All, >>>> >>>> I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the >>>> battery. I have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel >>>> 2 part primer, which is awesome stuff though it's a smelly pain to >>>> work with. All skin overlaps have been primed on both sides of >>>> the overlap, and this stuff is not conductive at all so the only >>>> electrical path is through the rivets and the small area of the >>>> rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. On the >>>> outside of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with >>>> the unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is >>>> minimal area in electrical contact. >>>> >>>> I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the >>>> battery may not provide an excellent ground path, especially for >>>> the large currents needed for engine cranking. I would really >>>> rather not have to run another heavy wire to the front of the >>>> airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. >>>> >>>> Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) >>>> using the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people >>>> connected the battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a >>>> piece of brass or copper buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or >>>> something like that? >>>> >>>> Thanks for any suggestions! >>>> >>>> Kent Ogden >>>> #40710 ultra slow-build :) >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Navworx
I checked the Navworx website this morning and they have posted a notice that they have ceased operations. I have a GNS 480 that I was planning to use for a position source and was waiting for the 5.0 software to update the the 600B and make it usable again. Does anyone have the required software? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 888hrs Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding question
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
As others have said, there should be lots of good metal to metal contact with the rivets - when driven properly, they expand radially against the sides of the holes. But if it worries you, its easy to measure. Ground the starter locally, and the same with the negative battery terminal. Run a pair of temporary wires from these locations to a good milli-volt voltmeter in the cockpit. Clear the prop area, and engage the starter. What does the voltmeter read? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473693#473693 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Along that line, its important to remember that the conductivity you get today may not be e conductivity you see 3, 5, or 10 years down the road. As corrosion sets in over time, resistance will increase and circuit performance is degrade. If youre in a highly corrosive environment like those of us along the gulf coast, its probably a wise investment to run a dedicated grounding wire. We spend way too much time in this area chasing down grounding problems that are frequently caused by corrosion. Often times, they get fixed by running a dedicated ground to whatever device is having problems. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 19, 2017, at 4:39 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > > As others have said, there should be lots of good metal to metal contact with the rivets - when driven properly, they expand radially against the sides of the holes. But if it worries you, its easy to measure. Ground the starter locally, and the same with the negative battery terminal. Run a pair of temporary wires from these locations to a good milli-volt voltmeter in the cockpit. Clear the prop area, and engage the starter. What does the voltmeter read? > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473693#473693 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2017
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Same boat here. No run from forest on firewall back to batt. LED nav and strobe lights locally grounded. No issues with those. But... I do have crazy noise when my locally grounded HID landing light ballasts heat up at first. It subsides once the draw rush is over. Thinking of swapping out for LED landing lights anyways, but have been unable to make them quiet. -Sean #40303 > Kelly McMullen > October 19, 2017 at 4:08 PM > > The airframe has plenty of surface area to carry any amount of current > you will use. > Running a separate cable from the battery to firewall central > grounding point is a totally wasted effort. > Strobes are a bit different animal if you are talking the old > capacitive discharge into a flash tube variety. They do generate noise > that is hard to totally suppress. > LED strobes don't seem to do that. > I have electrical system from battery to VPX system built to plans, > with grounding cable to frame , in front of battery box. > I have LED nav lights and strobes, all grounded locally, along with > Vans landing lights grounded locally. > The central grounding is essential for electronics that amplify noises > such as intercoms, nav coms etc. It is unnecessary for resistive > electrical loads, as they don't generate RF noise. > My previous aircraft was a Mooney that was built with full zinc > chromate primer, mostly non-structural skin, and chrome-moly tube > frame, with battery behind baggage compartment. It was just fine with > ground wire to airframe at battery. Cessna does the same. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Just a data point, even with a dedicated ground, my LED nav/strobes did have considerable noise. So much that it required a wholesale replacement of the lights. I didnt discover it until taxiing our for flight #1, so it became the first item I discovered before I ever left the ground. Come to find out, it wasnt a grounding or wiring problem, it was a design problem within the LED. The LEDs I had more pulled current when they were on and less when they were off. This created a surge that also broke the auto-squelch on my GTN750. So every time they fired, the squelch in my headset broke too. This required a new LED design that had a more linear current flow. So the current would remain constant even in the off cycles. This addressed the auto-squelch on the GTN. The newer Garmin Nav/Coms dont have a squelch knob. They sense the noise floor and then automatically adjust the squelch to match the floor. With a constant current draw the floor became constant again and the squelch became functional again. Just a word of caution as you go shop LEDs that flash. My were from a very reputable Certified and Experimental lighting provider and not cheapos from Napa. Its good to ask questions about the current flow patterns and not just be current flow; especially if your using newer radios with auto squelch. Fortunately the provider I used worked with me to make a swap to a newer LED version relatively painless and simple. Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 19, 2017, at 6:23 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > > Same boat here. No run from forest on firewall back to batt. LED nav and strobe lights locally grounded. No issues with those. But... I do have crazy noise when my locally grounded HID landing light ballasts heat up at first. It subsides once the draw rush is over. Thinking of swapping out for LED landing lights anyways, but have been unable to make them quiet. > > -Sean #40303 > >> Kelly McMullen >> October 19, 2017 at 4:08 PM >> >> The airframe has plenty of surface area to carry any amount of current you will use. >> Running a separate cable from the battery to firewall central grounding point is a totally wasted effort. >> Strobes are a bit different animal if you are talking the old capacitive discharge into a flash tube variety. They do generate noise that is hard to totally suppress. >> LED strobes don't seem to do that. >> I have electrical system from battery to VPX system built to plans, with grounding cable to frame , in front of battery box. >> I have LED nav lights and strobes, all grounded locally, along with Vans landing lights grounded locally. >> The central grounding is essential for electronics that amplify noises such as intercoms, nav coms etc. It is unnecessary for resistive electrical loads, as they don't generate RF noise. >> My previous aircraft was a Mooney that was built with full zinc chromate primer, mostly non-structural skin, and chrome-moly tube frame, with battery behind baggage compartment. It was just fine with ground wire to airframe at battery. Cessna does the same. >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding question
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
If the conductivity of the airframe deteriorates, it means that a *lot* of rivets were not driven properly and are going to start smoking soon, if they aren't already. I grant you corrosive environments are difficult. I sure would want to have a hangar in those locations. On 10/19/2017 3:08 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > Along that line, its important to remember that the conductivity you get today may not be e conductivity you see 3, 5, or 10 years down the road. As corrosion sets in over time, resistance will increase and circuit performance is degrade. > > If youre in a highly corrosive environment like those of us along the gulf coast, its probably a wise investment to run a dedicated grounding wire. > > We spend way too much time in this area chasing down grounding problems that are frequently caused by corrosion. Often times, they get fixed by running a dedicated ground to whatever device is having problems. > > Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Thats why our gulf coast planes tend to be heavier. We soak them in primer! :) Its better here in Waco than when I was in Houston. I dont miss the rust and corrosion on everything. My hand tools look like trash after years of working down there. You could use a new tool in the morning and by the next morning it would have rust forming on it. When we move to Waco, being able to keep bread on the counter more than 4 Days was awesome! :) Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 19, 2017, at 6:52 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > > If the conductivity of the airframe deteriorates, it means that a *lot* of rivets were not driven properly and are going to start smoking soon, if they aren't already. I grant you corrosive environments are difficult. I sure would want to have a hangar in those locations. > >> On 10/19/2017 3:08 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: >> Along that line, its important to remember that the conductivity you get today may not be e conductivity you see 3, 5, or 10 years down the road. As corrosion sets in over time, resistance will increase and circuit performance is degrade. >> If youre in a highly corrosive environment like those of us along the gulf coast, its probably a wise investment to run a dedicated grounding wire. >> We spend way too much time in this area chasing down grounding problems that are frequently caused by corrosion. Often times, they get fixed by running a dedicated ground to whatever device is having problems. >> Phil > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Date: Oct 20, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Philip Can you share the brand and supplier of your new LED lights? Thanks Carlos Enviado do meu iPhone No dia 20/10/2017, s 00:52, Phillip Perry escreveu: > > Just a data point, even with a dedicated ground, my LED nav/strobes did have considerable noise. So much that it required a wholesale replacement of the lights. I didnt discover it until taxiing our for flight #1, so it became the first item I discovered before I ever left the ground. > > Come to find out, it wasnt a grounding or wiring problem, it was a design problem within the LED. The LEDs I had more pulled current when they were on and less when they were off. This created a surge that also broke the auto-squelch on my GTN750. So every time they fired, the squelch in my headset broke too. > > This required a new LED design that had a more linear current flow. So the current would remain constant even in the off cycles. This addressed the auto-squelch on the GTN. > > The newer Garmin Nav/Coms dont have a squelch knob. They sense the noise floor and then automatically adjust the squelch to match the floor. With a constant current draw the floor became constant again and the squelch became functional again. > > Just a word of caution as you go shop LEDs that flash. My were from a very reputable Certified and Experimental lighting provider and not cheapos from Napa. Its good to ask questions about the current flow patterns and not just be current flow; especially if your using newer radios with auto squelch. > > Fortunately the provider I used worked with me to make a swap to a newer LED version relatively painless and simple. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Oct 19, 2017, at 6:23 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: >> >> >> Same boat here. No run from forest on firewall back to batt. LED nav and strobe lights locally grounded. No issues with those. But... I do have crazy noise when my locally grounded HID landing light ballasts heat up at first. It subsides once the draw rush is over. Thinking of swapping out for LED landing lights anyways, but have been unable to make them quiet. >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >>> Kelly McMullen >>> October 19, 2017 at 4:08 PM >>> >>> The airframe has plenty of surface area to carry any amount of current you will use. >>> Running a separate cable from the battery to firewall central grounding point is a totally wasted effort. >>> Strobes are a bit different animal if you are talking the old capacitive discharge into a flash tube variety. They do generate noise that is hard to totally suppress. >>> LED strobes don't seem to do that. >>> I have electrical system from battery to VPX system built to plans, with grounding cable to frame , in front of battery box. >>> I have LED nav lights and strobes, all grounded locally, along with Vans landing lights grounded locally. >>> The central grounding is essential for electronics that amplify noises such as intercoms, nav coms etc. It is unnecessary for resistive electrical loads, as they don't generate RF noise. >>> My previous aircraft was a Mooney that was built with full zinc chromate primer, mostly non-structural skin, and chrome-moly tube frame, with battery behind baggage compartment. It was just fine with ground wire to airframe at battery. Cessna does the same. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 20, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
Learn something every day - what kind of LED lighting device pulls the same current when off as it does when on, and why would we want it to do so? Please explain. On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 3:59 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote : > > Philip > > Can you share the brand and supplier of your new LED lights? > > Thanks > Carlos > > Enviado do meu iPhone > > No dia 20/10/2017, =C3-s 00:52, Phillip Perry > escreveu: > > > > > Just a data point, even with a dedicated ground, my LED nav/strobes did > have considerable noise. So much that it required a wholesale replacemen t > of the lights. I didn=99t discover it until taxiing our for flight #1, so it > became the first item I discovered before I ever left the ground. > > > > Come to find out, it wasn=99t a grounding or wiring problem, it w as a > design problem within the LED. The LED=99s I had more pulled curr ent when > they were on and less when they were off. This created a surge that also > broke the auto-squelch on my GTN750. So every time they fired, the > squelch in my headset broke too. > > > > This required a new LED design that had a more linear current flow. S o > the current would remain constant even in the off cycles. This address ed > the auto-squelch on the GTN. > > > > The newer Garmin Nav/Com=99s don=99t have a squelch knob. They sense the > noise floor and then automatically adjust the squelch to match the floor. > With a constant current draw the floor became constant again and the > squelch became functional again. > > > > Just a word of caution as you go shop LED=99s that flash. My we re from a > very reputable Certified and Experimental lighting provider and not > cheapo=99s from Napa. It=99s good to ask questions about the current flow > patterns and not just be current flow; especially if your using newer > radios with auto squelch. > > > > Fortunately the provider I used worked with me to make a swap to a newe r > LED version relatively painless and simple. > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Oct 19, 2017, at 6:23 PM, Sean Stephens > wrote: > >> > > >> > >> Same boat here. No run from forest on firewall back to batt. LED nav > and strobe lights locally grounded. No issues with those. But... I do > have crazy noise when my locally grounded HID landing light ballasts heat > up at first. It subsides once the draw rush is over. Thinking of swappi ng > out for LED landing lights anyways, but have been unable to make them qui et. > >> > >> -Sean #40303 > >> > >>> Kelly McMullen > >>> October 19, 2017 at 4:08 PM > >>> > >>> The airframe has plenty of surface area to carry any amount of curren t > you will use. > >>> Running a separate cable from the battery to firewall central > grounding point is a totally wasted effort. > >>> Strobes are a bit different animal if you are talking the old > capacitive discharge into a flash tube variety. They do generate noise th at > is hard to totally suppress. > >>> LED strobes don't seem to do that. > >>> I have electrical system from battery to VPX system built to plans, > with grounding cable to frame , in front of battery box. > >>> I have LED nav lights and strobes, all grounded locally, along with > Vans landing lights grounded locally. > >>> The central grounding is essential for electronics that amplify noise s > such as intercoms, nav coms etc. It is unnecessary for resistive electric al > loads, as they don't generate RF noise. > >>> My previous aircraft was a Mooney that was built with full zinc > chromate primer, mostly non-structural skin, and chrome-moly tube frame, > with battery behind baggage compartment. It was just fine with ground wir e > to airframe at battery. Cessna does the same. > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 20, 2017
Subject: Re: Grounding question
When I went through it, it they referred to it is a linear current flow. Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 20, 2017, at 10:54 AM, Bill Boyd wrote: > > Learn something every day - what kind of LED lighting device pulls the sam e current when off as it does when on, and why would we want it to do so? P lease explain. > >> On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 3:59 AM, Carlos Trigo wro te: >> >> Philip >> >> Can you share the brand and supplier of your new LED lights? >> >> Thanks >> Carlos >> >> Enviado do meu iPhone >> >> No dia 20/10/2017, =C3-s 00:52, Phillip Perry es creveu: >> >> > >> > Just a data point, even with a dedicated ground, my LED nav/strobes did have considerable noise. So much that it required a wholesale replacement o f the lights. I didn=99t discover it until taxiing our for flight #1, so it became the first item I discovered before I ever left the ground. >> > >> > Come to find out, it wasn=99t a grounding or wiring problem, it w as a design problem within the LED. The LED=99s I had more pulled cu rrent when they were on and less when they were off. This created a surge t hat also broke the auto-squelch on my GTN750. So every time they fired, th e squelch in my headset broke too. >> > >> > This required a new LED design that had a more linear current flow. S o the current would remain constant even in the off cycles. This addresse d the auto-squelch on the GTN. >> > >> > The newer Garmin Nav/Com=99s don=99t have a squelch knob. They sense the noise floor and then automatically adjust the squelch to mat ch the floor. With a constant current draw the floor became constant agai n and the squelch became functional again. >> > >> > Just a word of caution as you go shop LED=99s that flash. My we re from a very reputable Certified and Experimental lighting provider and no t cheapo=99s from Napa. It=99s good to ask questions about the c urrent flow patterns and not just be current flow; especially if your using n ewer radios with auto squelch. >> > >> > Fortunately the provider I used worked with me to make a swap to a newe r LED version relatively painless and simple. >> > >> > >> > >> > Sent from my iPhone >> > >> >> On Oct 19, 2017, at 6:23 PM, Sean Stephens wr ote: >> >> > >> >> >> >> Same boat here. No run from forest on firewall back to batt. LED nav and strobe lights locally grounded. No issues with those. But... I do hav e crazy noise when my locally grounded HID landing light ballasts heat up at first. It subsides once the draw rush is over. Thinking of swapping out f or LED landing lights anyways, but have been unable to make them quiet. >> >> >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> >> >>> Kelly McMullen >> >>> October 19, 2017 at 4:08 PM >> >>> >> >>> The airframe has plenty of surface area to carry any amount of curren t you will use. >> >>> Running a separate cable from the battery to firewall central groundi ng point is a totally wasted effort. >> >>> Strobes are a bit different animal if you are talking the old capacit ive discharge into a flash tube variety. They do generate noise that is hard to totally suppress. >> >>> LED strobes don't seem to do that. >> >>> I have electrical system from battery to VPX system built to plans, w ith grounding cable to frame , in front of battery box. >> >>> I have LED nav lights and strobes, all grounded locally, along with V ans landing lights grounded locally. >> >>> The central grounding is essential for electronics that amplify noise s such as intercoms, nav coms etc. It is unnecessary for resistive electrica l loads, as they don't generate RF noise. >> >>> My previous aircraft was a Mooney that was built with full zinc chrom ate primer, mostly non-structural skin, and chrome-moly tube frame, with bat tery behind baggage compartment. It was just fine with ground wire to airfra me at battery. Cessna does the same. >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> ========================= >> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List >> ========================= >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========================= >> WIKI - >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> ========================= >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio n >> ========================= >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding question
From: Dilson <dilsonfrota(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 20, 2017
Hi Kent and everyone. In my opinion you don't need to rum a ground cable to your battery, I read very good advices regarding that to your answer. If you allow me; OUT of your question but INSIDE the ground subject For your instruments and every other equipment that needs power. Run three ground wires (all of them direct from battery) not from the point you grounded your battery. MASTER GROUND - This ground should be used to every electrically "dirt" instruments or lights - IF you have real noisy and pulsing strobos I'd consider to have an extra "REALY DIRT MASTER GROUND" also tied directly to battery. AUDIO INSTRUMENT GROUND - It's only for those instruments related to audio signals (a transponder should not be tied here, the same for the glasses instruments - such as PFDs, MFDs and Skyview screens) AUDIO GROUND - Used only and only, to ground audio signals and its shields. When running ground connections it's highly recommended to run these connections instrument to instrument. I mean, run a wire from the radio ground up to the audio panel, the same for every other ground signal. if he audio panel connector doesn't have have enough pins tie all those grounds to a common wire and that wire to the audio unit. Also insulate from the air frame the ground of the headsets connector. The general idea is always lay down your wiring as a star. Regarding to ground your battery is the center of you galaxy :-) I'm ware that seems to be to much, but it isn't, doing that you will listen only the sounds that mater. Best Regards Dilson Em 19/10/2017 19:08, Kelly McMullen escreveu: > > The airframe has plenty of surface area to carry any amount of current > you will use. > Running a separate cable from the battery to firewall central > grounding point is a totally wasted effort. > Strobes are a bit different animal if you are talking the old > capacitive discharge into a flash tube variety. They do generate noise > that is hard to totally suppress. > LED strobes don't seem to do that. > I have electrical system from battery to VPX system built to plans, > with grounding cable to frame , in front of battery box. > I have LED nav lights and strobes, all grounded locally, along with > Vans landing lights grounded locally. > The central grounding is essential for electronics that amplify noises > such as intercoms, nav coms etc. It is unnecessary for resistive > electrical loads, as they don't generate RF noise. > My previous aircraft was a Mooney that was built with full zinc > chromate primer, mostly non-structural skin, and chrome-moly tube > frame, with battery behind baggage compartment. It was just fine with > ground wire to airframe at battery. Cessna does the same. > > On 10/19/2017 9:35 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote: >> >> I originally ran a #2 wire to the firewall forest of tabs, then >> realized how much it weighs, promptly ripped it all out and grounded >> the battery to the battery tray/bellcrank mount (F-1035). It worked >> out great. >> R >> I think its more important that you ground everything else to a >> single point like the forest of tabs on the firewall. I have my tail >> strobe locally grounded at the end of the tail and it's making a >> slight audible noise. Everything else is quiet. >> >> Lenny >> >>> On Oct 19, 2017, at 11:58 AM, Tim Olson wrote: >>> >>> >>> +1. I ran an independent #2 ground. >>> >>> That said, with the number of rivets in the airframe I'm sure you'll >>> be fine as long as you ground to something with a lot of rivets in it. >>> I just wanted as low a resistance path to my forest of tabs as >>> possible. >>> >>> Tim >>> >>> >>> On 10/19/2017 10:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: >>>> Ditto >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Shannon Hicks >>> > wrote: >>>>> I used a forest of tabs mounted to my firewall with a #2 (I think) >>>>> cable run from there all the way back to the battery ground in the >>>>> tailcone. I'm not sure if it was overkill, but I have had zero >>>>> issues so far. >>>>> >>>>> I think the plans ground path is through the skin to the battery >>>>> tray where you ground the battery. >>>>> >>>>> http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx >>>>> >>>>> Shannon >>>>> >>>>> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Kent Ogden >>>> > wrote: >>>>> >>>>> All, >>>>> >>>>> I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the >>>>> battery. I have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo >>>>> Nobel >>>>> 2 part primer, which is awesome stuff though it's a smelly >>>>> pain to >>>>> work with. All skin overlaps have been primed on both sides of >>>>> the overlap, and this stuff is not conductive at all so the only >>>>> electrical path is through the rivets and the small area of the >>>>> rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. On the >>>>> outside of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with >>>>> the unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is >>>>> minimal area in electrical contact. >>>>> >>>>> I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the >>>>> battery may not provide an excellent ground path, especially for >>>>> the large currents needed for engine cranking. I would really >>>>> rather not have to run another heavy wire to the front of the >>>>> airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. >>>>> >>>>> Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no >>>>> problem) >>>>> using the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people >>>>> connected the battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a >>>>> piece of brass or copper buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or >>>>> something like that? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks for any suggestions! >>>>> >>>>> Kent Ogden >>>>> #40710 ultra slow-build :) >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Grounding question
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 20, 2017
sportav8r(at)gmail.com wrote: > Learn something every day - what kind of LED lighting device pulls the same current when off as it does when on, and why would we want it to do so? Please explain. > > [/quote] You cannot just hook an LED up to 12 volts; it will pull a huge current and quickly overheat and fail. For low power lights (like panel) a dropping resistor is used. Very simple and easy, but 90% of the energy ends up in the resistor. Okay for low power lights, but not for position or landing lights. There, something more sophisticated is needed. The usual solution is to pulse the lights on/off, faster than your eye can see, to limit the power and heat build up. Those pulses can radiate RF and cause interference to other electronics. Some circuits add "smoothing" downstream to limit the RF, and provide a lower average current to the LED. So the LED has some average current thru it, while the power supply is pulsed. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473714#473714 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Starter upgrade
From: "tshort" <tmshort(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2017
I've got the old LS starter that used to ship way back when with the IO540, and am planning to upgrade during the panel upgrade this winter. Anyone have feedback on the B&C lightweight starter vs the Skytec -NL model? Performance, weight, fit issues, etc? Thanks in advance. Thomas Short Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473750#473750 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Starter upgrade
Date: Oct 22, 2017
I have the NL on my RV-6 and have been very pleased. Most people who use the NL seem to have been satisfied. On the -10, I'm going with the B&C, just because I got a good deal on it. I don't think you'll go wrong with either one. KB -----Original Message----- From: tshort Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2017 3:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Starter upgrade I've got the old LS starter that used to ship way back when with the IO540, and am planning to upgrade during the panel upgrade this winter. Anyone have feedback on the B&C lightweight starter vs the Skytec -NL model? Performance, weight, fit issues, etc? Thanks in advance. Thomas Short Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473750#473750 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2017
Subject: Re: Starter upgrade
I'd agree...between the two you will be happy either way. I just got 2 of the NL's last year. They both work better than the LS and PM. Tim > On Oct 22, 2017, at 9:17 AM, wrote: > > > I have the NL on my RV-6 and have been very pleased. Most people who use the NL seem to have been satisfied. > > On the -10, I'm going with the B&C, just because I got a good deal on it. > > I don't think you'll go wrong with either one. > > KB > > -----Original Message----- From: tshort > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2017 3:53 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Starter upgrade > > > I've got the old LS starter that used to ship way back when with the IO540, and am planning to upgrade during the panel upgrade this winter. > > Anyone have feedback on the B&C lightweight starter vs the Skytec -NL model? > > Performance, weight, fit issues, etc? > > Thanks in advance. > > Thomas Short > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473750#473750 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Starter upgrade
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2017
IF you go with the NL, be sure to get the latest version that has improved kickback protection. The original used a shear pin, which could not be replaced without removal of the starter. On 10/22/2017 7:17 AM, kboatright1(at)comcast.net wrote: > > I have the NL on my RV-6 and have been very pleased. Most people who use > the NL seem to have been satisfied. > > On the -10, I'm going with the B&C, just because I got a good deal on it. > > I don't think you'll go wrong with either one. > > KB > > -----Original Message----- From: tshort > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2017 3:53 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Starter upgrade > > > I've got the old LS starter that used to ship way back when with the > IO540, and am planning to upgrade during the panel upgrade this winter. > > Anyone have feedback on the B&C lightweight starter vs the Skytec -NL > model? > > Performance, weight, fit issues, etc? > > Thanks in advance. > > Thomas Short > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473750#473750 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Starter upgrade
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2017
How new are you talking, by "latest"? Mine were from 2017, and I've unboxed 3 of them this year, and every one of them came with a shear pin glued to the top under the boss mount. I do know that they advertise a new Kickback Protection System, but I do believe it's still a shear pin and since it's glued to the boss mount, I can't see it being replaced without removal of the starter. It does say: "Kickback Protection System (KPS) with field-replaceable shear pin" ... on their website. Perhaps we are supposed to cut out the pin and keep it in the plane? If that were the case though, why would they just not attach it to the starter in a ziploc bag like they do the star washers? So, I think even the current one requires a shear pin. That said, I've never had a kickback issue with any of the starters over all of these years, so I'm not sure I'd worry too much about it, if you have a well configured ignition system. Tim On 10/22/2017 5:50 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > IF you go with the NL, be sure to get the latest version that has > improved kickback protection. The original used a shear pin, which > could not be replaced without removal of the starter. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2017
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Starter upgrade
Just an FYI.=C2- The starters and alternators are no longer being provide d and serviced by the same group as before.=C2- It's now Hartzell.=C2- Big company, big company service, NOT.Don McDonald From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2017 6:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Starter upgrade How new are you talking, by "latest"? Mine were from 2017, and I've unboxed 3 of them this year, and every one o f them came with a shear pin glued to the top under the boss mount. I do know that they advertise a new Kickback Protection System, but I do believe it's still a shear pin and since it's glued to the boss m ount, I can't see it being replaced without removal of the starter.=C2- It does say: "Kickback Protection System (KPS) with field-replaceable shear pin" ... on their website.=C2- Perhaps we are supposed to cut out the pin and keep it in the plane?=C2- If that were the case though, why would they j ust not attach it to the starter in a ziploc bag like they do the star washers ? So, I think even the current one requires a shear pin. That said, I've never had a kickback issue with any of the starters over all of these years, so I'm not sure I'd worry too much about it, if you have a well configured ignition system. Tim On 10/22/2017 5:50 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: IF you go with the NL, be sure to get the latest version that has improved kickback protection. The original used a shear pin, which could not be rep laced without removal of the starter. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2017
Subject: Breakable ties
Guys, I bought a 500-yr supply of these little breakable ties for $5. [image: Inline image 4][image: Inline image 5] I use them on my alternate air knob, and I pull it once a year to make sure it works. If anybody wants some, just send me a PM with an address and I'll send you an envelope full. The McMaster no. is 7189K31 if you want to look up all the gory details. --Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2017
Subject: Re: Starter upgrade
I have had good service from them, myself. I almost didn=99t once, bu t it ended up being done right. So I=99m not of the opinion that from a service/support perspective they are bad. Maybe some people have other e xperiences. My worst experience was that if you simply call and hope someon e will answer, chances are they won=99t....but if you leave a voice me ssage, you get a prompt response. I don=99t usually leave VM=99 s so it took me a few calls to actually get connected once Tim > On Oct 22, 2017, at 8:25 PM, Don McDonald wrot e: > > Just an FYI. The starters and alternators are no longer being provided an d serviced by the same group as before. It's now Hartzell. Big company, bi g company service, NOT. > Don McDonald > > From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2017 6:20 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Starter upgrade > > How new are you talking, by "latest"? > > Mine were from 2017, and I've unboxed 3 of them this year, and every one o f them came > with a shear pin glued to the top under the boss mount. > I do know that they advertise a new Kickback Protection System, > but I do believe it's still a shear pin and since it's glued to the boss m ount, I can't see it being > replaced without removal of the starter. It does say: > > "Kickback Protection System (KPS) with field-replaceable shear pin" > ... on their website. Perhaps we are supposed to cut out the pin and > keep it in the plane? If that were the case though, why would they just > not attach it to the starter in a ziploc bag like they do the star washers ? > > So, I think even the current one requires a shear pin. > That said, I've never had a kickback issue with any of the starters > over all of these years, so I'm not sure I'd worry too much about it, > if you have a well configured ignition system. > > Tim > >> On 10/22/2017 5:50 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: >> >> IF you go with the NL, be sure to get the latest version that has improve d kickback protection. The original used a shear pin, which could not be rep laced without removal of the starter. >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Subject: Re: Starter upgrade
Your not wrong about no service Don. The Field wire broke off on my Plane Po wer 60Amp in my RV10. The Alternator was brand new and had about 10 hours on it. They were not interested and wouldn't even tell me what type of plug is used so that I could buy another and fix it myself. Which is of course what I ended up doing. Cheers John MacCallum VH-DUU #41016 > On 23 Oct 2017, at 12:25, Don McDonald wrote: > > Just an FYI. The starters and alternators are no longer being provided an d serviced by the same group as before. It's now Hartzell. Big company, bi g company service, NOT. > Don McDonald > > From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2017 6:20 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Starter upgrade > > How new are you talking, by "latest"? > > Mine were from 2017, and I've unboxed 3 of them this year, and every one o f them came > with a shear pin glued to the top under the boss mount. > I do know that they advertise a new Kickback Protection System, > but I do believe it's still a shear pin and since it's glued to the boss m ount, I can't see it being > replaced without removal of the starter. It does say: > > "Kickback Protection System (KPS) with field-replaceable shear pin" > ... on their website. Perhaps we are supposed to cut out the pin and > keep it in the plane? If that were the case though, why would they just > not attach it to the starter in a ziploc bag like they do the star washers ? > > So, I think even the current one requires a shear pin. > That said, I've never had a kickback issue with any of the starters > over all of these years, so I'm not sure I'd worry too much about it, > if you have a well configured ignition system. > > Tim > >> On 10/22/2017 5:50 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: >> >> IF you go with the NL, be sure to get the latest version that has improve d kickback protection. The original used a shear pin, which could not be rep laced without removal of the starter. >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternator Issue
From: "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Trouble shooting question for you all...I am having some alternator issues. I have the 60 amp PP alternator that comes with FF kit form Vans. I have about 75 hours on plane. My alternator works fine on ground and charges in 13.4 to 13.6 range, but when I am in the air in stays around 12.5 charge rate. It has has been doing that for about last 20 hours. It had a whine with RPM increase. I did some looking with multi meter and reading seemed to consistent throughout system and on both EFIS screen (AF-5000). Out of pure laziness more than anything I swapped for a brand new alternator - same result. Works fine on ground but low charge rate in flight and sometimes with go down to 12.0 volts. I recycle field switch and will sometimes get back up into 13s but doesn't stay. On side note I have a back-up PP 30 amp alternator on vacuum pad that works as it should. Any thoughts? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473795#473795 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternator Issue
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Send your question to the aeroelectric-list. Many experts there. aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com I have same alternator, and I normally get 14.3-14.4 in flight once the battery has recovered from starter current draw. On 10/23/2017 6:25 AM, mhealydds wrote: > > Trouble shooting question for you all...I am having some alternator issues. I have the 60 amp PP alternator that comes with FF kit form Vans. I have about 75 hours on plane. My alternator works fine on ground and charges in 13.4 to 13.6 range, but when I am in the air in stays around 12.5 charge rate. It has has been doing that for about last 20 hours. It had a whine with RPM increase. I did some looking with multi meter and reading seemed to consistent throughout system and on both EFIS screen (AF-5000). Out of pure laziness more than anything I swapped for a brand new alternator - same result. Works fine on ground but low charge rate in flight and sometimes with go down to 12.0 volts. I recycle field switch and will sometimes get back up into 13s but doesn't stay. On side note I have a back-up PP 30 amp alternator on vacuum pad that works as it should. Any thoughts? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473795#473795 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Schneider <lschneider39(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Issue
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Be sure the belt is tight > On Oct 23, 2017, at 6:25 AM, mhealydds wrote: > > > Trouble shooting question for you all...I am having some alternator issues. I have the 60 amp PP alternator that comes with FF kit form Vans. I have about 75 hours on plane. My alternator works fine on ground and charges in 13.4 to 13.6 range, but when I am in the air in stays around 12.5 charge rate. It has has been doing that for about last 20 hours. It had a whine with RPM increase. I did some looking with multi meter and reading seemed to consistent throughout system and on both EFIS screen (AF-5000). Out of pure laziness more than anything I swapped for a brand new alternator - same result. Works fine on ground but low charge rate in flight and sometimes with go down to 12.0 volts. I recycle field switch and will sometimes get back up into 13s but doesn't stay. On side note I have a back-up PP 30 amp alternator on vacuum pad that works as it should. Any thoughts? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473795#473795 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Subject: Re: Alternator Issue
On the topic of belt slipping, here's the spec and procedure to test. Mine loosened greatly after the first 8-10 hours and required some attention. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/SI1129D%20Alternator%20Belt%20Tension%2C%20Methods%20of%20Checking.pdf Phil On Mon, Oct 23, 2017 at 9:48 AM, Larry Schneider wrote: > > Be sure the belt is tight > > > On Oct 23, 2017, at 6:25 AM, mhealydds wrote: > > > > > > Trouble shooting question for you all...I am having some alternator > issues. I have the 60 amp PP alternator that comes with FF kit form Vans. I > have about 75 hours on plane. My alternator works fine on ground and > charges in 13.4 to 13.6 range, but when I am in the air in stays around > 12.5 charge rate. It has has been doing that for about last 20 hours. It > had a whine with RPM increase. I did some looking with multi meter and > reading seemed to consistent throughout system and on both EFIS screen > (AF-5000). Out of pure laziness more than anything I swapped for a brand > new alternator - same result. Works fine on ground but low charge rate in > flight and sometimes with go down to 12.0 volts. I recycle field switch and > will sometimes get back up into 13s but doesn't stay. On side note I have a > back-up PP 30 amp alternator on vacuum pad that works as it should. Any > thoughts? > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473795#473795 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator Issue
Date: Oct 23, 2017
It might be an AFS issue. I have two 5800s and one of them was giving me low voltage alarms, getting down to 11.5 or so, the other stayed rock solid displaying 14.1. It only did it once on a longer flight, and it didnt happen again. So, it may not be alternator related. Check the logs on both Efis screens. PP alternators have a whine especially at a higher load, because they have switching regulators. If I knew that before I would have installed a B&C which has an external linear voltage regulator, producing much less noise. Interestingly I dont hear the noise with the Halo headset, but I do with the Bose A20. Lenny > On Oct 23, 2017, at 9:25 AM, mhealydds wrote: > > > Trouble shooting question for you all...I am having some alternator issues. I have the 60 amp PP alternator that comes with FF kit form Vans. I have about 75 hours on plane. My alternator works fine on ground and charges in 13.4 to 13.6 range, but when I am in the air in stays around 12.5 charge rate. It has has been doing that for about last 20 hours. It had a whine with RPM increase. I did some looking with multi meter and reading seemed to consistent throughout system and on both EFIS screen (AF-5000). Out of pure laziness more than anything I swapped for a brand new alternator - same result. Works fine on ground but low charge rate in flight and sometimes with go down to 12.0 volts. I recycle field switch and will sometimes get back up into 13s but doesn't stay. On side note I have a back-up PP 30 amp alternator on vacuum pad that works as it should. Any thoughts? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473795#473795 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Subject: Engine timing
Does anyone know of a website or YouTube video that discusses the effects of engine timing with piston changes. IE: My lycoming (aerosport really) has 9:1 pistons and the data plate still shows stock 20 timing. I have one LSE and one mag. Im considering tweaking my mag timing for the 9:1 pistons and see if I can smooth out the engine a bit more. But before I do, Id like to educate myself with reputable information. Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternator Issue
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Id start by looking at the field circuit. Any chance that switch is failing in flight? Or another connection? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473820#473820 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John MacCallum" <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Alternator Issue
Date: Oct 24, 2017
Hi everyone, If the Bus Voltage is falling to 12.5 Volts in Flight then the Battery is not being charged at all! These Batteries require more than 13.2 Volts to reach a full charge. The usual output voltage is 14.1 to 14.2 volts so as to overcome the internal resistance of the battery and to push some current through the battery to allow charging to take place. Yes check the belt tension as has been suggested. Check the Field connection and the connections on the output side. As for the Voltage regulator the voltage regulator is a linear regulator that is integral to the Brush Assembly. If there is noticeable whine it could be being caused by blown diodes in the rectifier pack. That will also affect the output voltage. You mention you have the PP 30 back up. If you normally leave the field breaker/switch on that Alternator will provide output when the bus voltage falls below 13 volts. So you might only be looking at what is being supplied by the PP30. I have the same setup on my RV10 and when I first start up, I don't turn Alt 1 on until I have checked that Alt 2 (PP30) is supplying current on the Alternator 2 input on my AFS4500 MFD. It will usually show around 6 to 8 amps of Charging current right after starting. Once that is checked, I turn Alt 1 on and the charging rate will then jump up To around 20 amps on the Alt 1 sensor and Alt 2 will show zero. Cheers John MacCallum VH-DUU RV 10 # 41016 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mhealydds Sent: Tuesday, 24 October 2017 12:26 AM Subject: RV10-List: Alternator Issue Trouble shooting question for you all...I am having some alternator issues. I have the 60 amp PP alternator that comes with FF kit form Vans. I have about 75 hours on plane. My alternator works fine on ground and charges in 13.4 to 13.6 range, but when I am in the air in stays around 12.5 charge rate. It has has been doing that for about last 20 hours. It had a whine with RPM increase. I did some looking with multi meter and reading seemed to consistent throughout system and on both EFIS screen (AF-5000). Out of pure laziness more than anything I swapped for a brand new alternator - same result. Works fine on ground but low charge rate in flight and sometimes with go down to 12.0 volts. I recycle field switch and will sometimes get back up into 13s but doesn't stay. On side note I have a back-up PP 30 amp alternator on vacuum pad that works as it should. Any thoughts? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473795#473795 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine timing
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Phil, higher compression generally means faster burning of the fuel. Thus later timing and higher octane. I have stock 8.5:1 pistons and 25 degree timing. The highest compression Lycoming used for non-helicopter applications was 8.7:1 and they had 20 degree timing, which is why I suspect Aerosport recommended that value. A phone call to Aerosport should verify. Once you are above a certain rpm the LSE will begin advancing timing, depending on manifold pressure, rpm and CHT. I would suspect either plugs or fuel injectors if engine isn't as smooth as you think it should be. You should be able to verify by doing in flight mag check to see if EGT rise on single mag is greater on any one cylinder. On 10/23/2017 12:50 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > Does anyone know of a website or YouTube video that discusses the effects of engine timing with piston changes. > > IE: My lycoming (aerosport really) has 9:1 pistons and the data plate still shows stock 20 timing. I have one LSE and one mag. Im considering tweaking my mag timing for the 9:1 pistons and see if I can smooth out the engine a bit more. > > But before I do, Id like to educate myself with reputable information. > > Thanks, > Phil > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2017
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine timing
Although 9:1 isn't really that much higher compression, what I can tell you is that with an increase in timing, 25 degrees, you will have higher cht's .Don McDonald From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 23, 2017 3:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: Engine timing Does anyone know of a website or YouTube video that discusses the effects o f engine timing with piston changes.=C2- IE: My lycoming (aerosport really) has 9:1 pistons and the data plate still shows stock 20=C2=B0 timing.=C2- I have one LSE and one mag.=C2- I =99m considering tweaking my mag timing for the 9:1 pistons and see if I can smooth out the engine a bit more. But before I do, I=99d like to educate myself with reputable informat ion. Thanks, Phil S - WIKI - - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine timing
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Yes, advancing timing would be the wrong way to go. Would run hotter and have less detonation margin. If anything, it might take backing off to perhaps 18 degrees. On 10/23/2017 2:20 PM, Don McDonald wrote: > Although 9:1 isn't really that much higher compression, what I can tell > you is that with an increase in timing, 25 degrees, you will have higher > cht's. > Don McDonald > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Phillip Perry > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Monday, October 23, 2017 3:02 PM > *Subject:* RV10-List: Engine timing > > > > > Does anyone know of a website or YouTube video that discusses the > effects of engine timing with piston changes. > > IE: My lycoming (aerosport really) has 9:1 pistons and the data plate > still shows stock 20 timing. I have one LSE and one mag. Im > considering tweaking my mag timing for the 9:1 pistons and see if I can > smooth out the engine a bit more. > > But before I do, Id like to educate myself with reputable information. > > Thanks, > Phil > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > http://wiki.matronics.com > http://www.matron== > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine timing
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
If you want to learn about how to properly run your engine (ROP, LOP, TIming, the Red Box, etc) check out the people at GAMI and their Advanced Pilot seminars. They have a weekend class that is amazing but most of the information is covered in their on-line seminar. AdvancedPilot.com It's well worth the price of admission if you truly want to know the facts (and fallacies) about managing EGT, CHT, timing, and electronic ignitions. Highly recommended. Nick -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473830#473830 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Jones <rjones560xl(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2017
Subject: Re: Engine timing
I am no expert on this issue, but the people that built my engine are and have been producing reliable high performance engines for years. Barrett Precision Engines built my engine with their own cold air induction system, 9-1 pistons, Airflow Performance FM300 throttle body, Superior bearings and cylinders. and Bendix mags. They dataplate they put on it specifies timing at 25 degrees before top dead center. It came in at 288hp on the dyno. I have no idea what the Lycoming Manual says about this, but then it is no longer a stock Lycoming Robert Jones > On Oct 23, 2017, at 17:06, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > > Yes, advancing timing would be the wrong way to go. Would run hotter and have less detonation margin. If anything, it might take backing off to perhaps 18 degrees. > >> On 10/23/2017 2:20 PM, Don McDonald wrote: >> Although 9:1 isn't really that much higher compression, what I can tell you is that with an increase in timing, 25 degrees, you will have higher cht's. >> Don McDonald >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* Phillip Perry >> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> *Sent:* Monday, October 23, 2017 3:02 PM >> *Subject:* RV10-List: Engine timing >> Does anyone know of a website or YouTube video that discusses the effects of engine timing with piston changes. >> IE: My lycoming (aerosport really) has 9:1 pistons and the data plate still shows stock 20 timing. I have one LSE and one mag. Im considering tweaking my mag timing for the 9:1 pistons and see if I can smooth out the engine a bit more. >> But before I do, Id like to educate myself with reputable information. >> Thanks, >> Phil >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> http://forums.matronics.com >> http://wiki.matronics.com >> http://www.matron== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Starter upgrade
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 25, 2017
I removed the Skytec PM which didnt have enough power to turn over my IO540 with high compression pistons. I replaced it with the BandC starter, which works fine. Im mainly posting because the link between the starter and Plane Power alternator did not fit the BandC. Neither did either of the links BandC provided. I was able to drill a new 5/16 hole in the old link after bending it slightly; worked fine. I had called Plane Power and they strongly advised against leaving the link off. I believe the P/N for the link is 1002. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=473870#473870 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List 2017 Fund Raiser During
November! Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the Email List and Fourm Services at Matronics. It's solely through the Contributions of List members (you) that these Matronics Lists are possible. You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site http://forums.matronics.com , Wiki site http://wiki.matronics.com , or other related pages such as the List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search , List Browse http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse , etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. YOUR personal Contribution counts! This year we have a really HUGE and TERRIFIC line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. In fact, there are 9 great gifts to choose from! There's something for everyone, to be sure. Please make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including using a Credit Card, PayPal, or by Personal Check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure web site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator RV-4/RV-6/RV-8 Builder/Rebuilder/Pilot ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: ipad gps
Date: Nov 01, 2017
I installed a Garmin 496 and a AirGizmo mount in my panel to provide a GPS signal to my TruTrak autopilot and it worked very well until recently when it seems to have failed. New battery didn't help. Since I had recently started using an ipad on a RAM mount I'm think I would not replace the Garmin but use the ipad instead. Question is though-how do I get a GPS steering signal out of the ipad to the TruTrak? Albert Gardner RV-10 N991RV Yuma, Arizona ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: ipad gps
Date: Nov 01, 2017
Looking on ebay for info about the price of Garmin gps units I ran across a listing for a repair service (out of Russia of all places). https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Service-for-Garmin-GPSmap-296-396-496-495-Co lor-Chartplotter-GPS-Fix/263072741620?hash=item3d405b78f4:g:mrUAAOSwgv5ZXJgb Anybody ever had one repaired or used a Russian repair service before? Albert? --> I installed a Garmin 496 and a AirGizmo mount in my panel to provide a GPS signal --> to my TruTrak autopilot and it worked very well until recently when it seems to --> have failed. New battery didn't help. Since I had recently started using an ipad --> on a RAM mount I'm think I would not replace the Garmin but use the ipad instead. --> Question is though-how do I get a GPS steering signal out of the ipad to the --> TruTrak? --> Albert Gardner --> RV-10 N991RV --> Yuma, Arizona ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
If you are just looking to get GPS to your TruTrak, I would look at just a simple GPS puck If you dont have another suitable GPS in the plane already.. You can buy something like the Garman GPS 18 for very cheap. The TruTrak is pretty easy to integrate with a GPS, even a simple sirf GPS. Tim > On Nov 1, 2017, at 11:58 AM, Albert wrote: > > > Looking on ebay for info about the price of Garmin gps units I ran across a > listing for a repair service (out of Russia of all places). > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Service-for-Garmin-GPSmap-296-396-496-495-Co > lor-Chartplotter-GPS-Fix/263072741620?hash=item3d405b78f4:g:mrUAAOSwgv5ZXJgb > > Anybody ever had one repaired or used a Russian repair service before? > Albert? > > > > --> I installed a Garmin 496 and a AirGizmo mount in my panel to provide a > GPS signal --> to my TruTrak autopilot and it worked very well until > recently when it seems to --> have failed. New battery didn't help. Since I > had recently started using an ipad --> on a RAM mount I'm think I would not > replace the Garmin but use the ipad instead. --> Question is though-how do I > get a GPS steering signal out of the ipad to the --> TruTrak? > --> Albert Gardner > --> RV-10 N991RV > --> Yuma, Arizona > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
I have been using one of these with no issues: GlobalSat BR-355 Serial GPS Receiver On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 1:34 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > If you are just looking to get GPS to your TruTrak, I would look at just a > simple GPS puck If you don=99t have another suitable GPS in the pla ne > already.. You can buy something like the Garman GPS 18 for very cheap. T he > TruTrak is pretty easy to integrate with a GPS, even a simple sirf GPS. > Tim > > > On Nov 1, 2017, at 11:58 AM, Albert wrote: > > > > > > Looking on ebay for info about the price of Garmin gps units I ran > across a > > listing for a repair service (out of Russia of all places). > > > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Service-for-Garmin- > GPSmap-296-396-496-495-Co > > lor-Chartplotter-GPS-Fix/263072741620?hash=item3d405b78f4:g: > mrUAAOSwgv5ZXJgb > > > > Anybody ever had one repaired or used a Russian repair service before? > > Albert? > > > > > > > > --> I installed a Garmin 496 and a AirGizmo mount in my panel to provid e > a > > GPS signal --> to my TruTrak autopilot and it worked very well until > > recently when it seems to --> have failed. New battery didn't help. > Since I > > had recently started using an ipad --> on a RAM mount I'm think I would > not > > replace the Garmin but use the ipad instead. --> Question is though-how > do I > > get a GPS steering signal out of the ipad to the --> TruTrak? > > --> Albert Gardner > > --> RV-10 N991RV > > --> Yuma, Arizona > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ipad gps
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2017
I have 2 of the BR-355's as well. I only mentioned the GPS18 because it's one that may be more familiar to some people, and can do 9600 baud. That said, my advice for you is this if you go the BR-355 route: Contact GlobalSat...they will sell you a 9600 baud version of the BR-355. I bought 2 of them from them last year. I have one of them in my RV-14, in fact, set up with a switch to be the backup GPS for my TruTrak. They're a good little GPS that you can buy for under $50. I don't think you NEED 9600 baud for the TruTrak, but I'd go that route if at all possible. Tim On 11/1/2017 2:12 PM, Jim Combs wrote: > I have been using one of these with no issues: > > > GlobalSat BR-355 Serial GPS Receiver > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phil Yoder <phil(at)philyoder.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
I may be dense - but what does tru-track do with a raw GPS signal? I can see a 496 putting out desired track, waypoint and course info - but ??? Phil On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 3:51 PM Tim Olson wrote: > > I have 2 of the BR-355's as well. > I only mentioned the GPS18 because it's one that may be > more familiar to some people, and can do 9600 baud. > > That said, my advice for you is this if you go the BR-355 route: > > Contact GlobalSat...they will sell you a 9600 baud version of > the BR-355. I bought 2 of them from them last year. I have one > of them in my RV-14, in fact, set up with a switch to be the backup > GPS for my TruTrak. They're a good little GPS that you can > buy for under $50. I don't think you NEED 9600 baud for the > TruTrak, but I'd go that route if at all possible. > > Tim > > On 11/1/2017 2:12 PM, Jim Combs wrote: > > I have been using one of these with no issues: > > > > > > GlobalSat BR-355 Serial GPS Receiver > > > > > > > -- Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthatcomplex.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: ipad gps
Date: Nov 01, 2017
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From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
It keeps track of ground track and position. The ARINC lines do the steering. Tim > On Nov 1, 2017, at 3:30 PM, Phil Yoder wrote: > > I may be dense - but what does tru-track do with a raw GPS signal? I can s ee a 496 putting out desired track, waypoint and course info - but ??? > Phil > > >> On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 3:51 PM Tim Olson wrote: >> >> I have 2 of the BR-355's as well. >> I only mentioned the GPS18 because it's one that may be >> more familiar to some people, and can do 9600 baud. >> >> That said, my advice for you is this if you go the BR-355 route: >> >> Contact GlobalSat...they will sell you a 9600 baud version of >> the BR-355. I bought 2 of them from them last year. I have one >> of them in my RV-14, in fact, set up with a switch to be the backup >> GPS for my TruTrak. They're a good little GPS that you can >> buy for under $50. I don't think you NEED 9600 baud for the >> TruTrak, but I'd go that route if at all possible. >> >> Tim >> >> On 11/1/2017 2:12 PM, Jim Combs wrote: >> > I have been using one of these with no issues: >> > >> > >> > GlobalSat BR-355 Serial GPS Receiver >> > >> > >> ========== >> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> WIKI - >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio n >> ========== >> >> >> > > -- > Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthat complex.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
When in stand alone mode, it provides the GPS Ground track for the heading information, plus it provides altitude information for standalone altitude hold. On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 4:50 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > It keeps track of ground track and position. > The ARINC lines do the steering. > Tim > > On Nov 1, 2017, at 3:30 PM, Phil Yoder wrote: > > I may be dense - but what does tru-track do with a raw GPS signal? I can > see a 496 putting out desired track, waypoint and course info - but ??? > Phil > > > On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 3:51 PM Tim Olson wrote: > >> >> I have 2 of the BR-355's as well. >> I only mentioned the GPS18 because it's one that may be >> more familiar to some people, and can do 9600 baud. >> >> That said, my advice for you is this if you go the BR-355 route: >> >> Contact GlobalSat...they will sell you a 9600 baud version of >> the BR-355. I bought 2 of them from them last year. I have one >> of them in my RV-14, in fact, set up with a switch to be the backup >> GPS for my TruTrak. They're a good little GPS that you can >> buy for under $50. I don't think you NEED 9600 baud for the >> TruTrak, but I'd go that route if at all possible. >> >> Tim >> >> On 11/1/2017 2:12 PM, Jim Combs wrote: >> > I have been using one of these with no issues: >> > >> > >> > GlobalSat BR-355 Serial GPS Receiver >> > >> > >> ========== >> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www. >> matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> WIKI - >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> -- > Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ > www.itsnotthatcomplex.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: ipad gps
Date: Nov 01, 2017
This from TruTraks Installation Information: The Garmin 496 was wired to Pin 7. Pin 7 is Primary Serial Input. Baud rate selectable 1200, 2400, 4800 or 9600 baud. Automatically decodes NMEA-0183, Garmin Aviation Format, or Apollo/UPSAT MovingMap or GPSS format. Provides directional reference to the autopilot. How does the Global Sat BR-355 get power and how does the GPS signal come out of it? The picture looks like it has a USB connector. Does it have a serial connector also? I'm very interested because it looks like that might be all that I need. Albert Gardner From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2017 1:50 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: ipad gps It keeps track of ground track and position. The ARINC lines do the steering. Tim On Nov 1, 2017, at 3:30 PM, Phil Yoder wrote: I may be dense - but what does tru-track do with a raw GPS signal? I can see a 496 putting out desired track, waypoint and course info - but ??? Phil On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 3:51 PM Tim Olson wrote: I have 2 of the BR-355's as well. I only mentioned the GPS18 because it's one that may be more familiar to some people, and can do 9600 baud. That said, my advice for you is this if you go the BR-355 route: Contact GlobalSat...they will sell you a 9600 baud version of the BR-355. I bought 2 of them from them last year. I have one of them in my RV-14, in fact, set up with a switch to be the backup GPS for my TruTrak. They're a good little GPS that you can buy for under $50. I don't think you NEED 9600 baud for the TruTrak, but I'd go that route if at all possible. Tim On 11/1/2017 2:12 PM, Jim Combs wrote: > I have been using one of these with no issues: > > > GlobalSat BR-355 Serial GPS Receiver > > -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List FORUMS - eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com WIKI - errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com b Site - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution -- Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthatcomplex.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
I found this on the internet doing a search for BR-355 pin-out. You can get the connector at digikey or mouser electronics. This DIN connector is the same as that used on the OLD PS-2 Mouse / Keyboard (Pre - USB) Jim C On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 6:44 PM, Albert wrote: > This from TruTraks Installation Information: The Garmin 496 was wired to > Pin 7. > > > Pin 7 is Primary Serial Input. Baud rate selectable 1200, 2400, 4800 or > 9600 baud. Automatically decodes NMEA-0183, Garmin Aviation Format, or > Apollo/UPSAT MovingMap or GPSS format. Provides directional reference to > the autopilot. > > > How does the Global Sat BR-355 get power and how does the GPS signal come > out of it? The picture looks like it has a USB connector. Does it have a > serial connector also? I'm very interested because it looks like that might > be all that I need. > > Albert Gardner > > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Olson > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 01, 2017 1:50 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: ipad gps > > > It keeps track of ground track and position. > > The ARINC lines do the steering. > > Tim > > > On Nov 1, 2017, at 3:30 PM, Phil Yoder wrote: > > I may be dense - but what does tru-track do with a raw GPS signal? I can > see a 496 putting out desired track, waypoint and course info - but ??? > > Phil > > > On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 3:51 PM Tim Olson wrote: > > > I have 2 of the BR-355's as well. > I only mentioned the GPS18 because it's one that may be > more familiar to some people, and can do 9600 baud. > > That said, my advice for you is this if you go the BR-355 route: > > Contact GlobalSat...they will sell you a 9600 baud version of > the BR-355. I bought 2 of them from them last year. I have one > of them in my RV-14, in fact, set up with a switch to be the backup > GPS for my TruTrak. They're a good little GPS that you can > buy for under $50. I don't think you NEED 9600 baud for the > TruTrak, but I'd go that route if at all possible. > > Tim > > On 11/1/2017 2:12 PM, Jim Combs wrote: > > I have been using one of these with no issues: > > > > > > GlobalSat BR-355 Serial GPS Receiver > > > > > ========== > -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www. > matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > FORUMS - > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > WIKI - > errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com > ========== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > -- > > Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ > www.itsnotthatcomplex.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
The baud rate is just setting the transfer rate from the GPS to the Truetrac. Regardless of the baud rate used, you will still only get GPS updates once per second. The sentence is short so no reason to get crazy with high baud rates. Jim C On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 6:44 PM, Albert wrote: > This from TruTraks Installation Information: The Garmin 496 was wired to > Pin 7. > > > Pin 7 is Primary Serial Input. Baud rate selectable 1200, 2400, 4800 or > 9600 baud. Automatically decodes NMEA-0183, Garmin Aviation Format, or > Apollo/UPSAT MovingMap or GPSS format. Provides directional reference to > the autopilot. > > > How does the Global Sat BR-355 get power and how does the GPS signal come > out of it? The picture looks like it has a USB connector. Does it have a > serial connector also? I'm very interested because it looks like that might > be all that I need. > > Albert Gardner > > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Olson > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 01, 2017 1:50 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: ipad gps > > > It keeps track of ground track and position. > > The ARINC lines do the steering. > > Tim > > > On Nov 1, 2017, at 3:30 PM, Phil Yoder wrote: > > I may be dense - but what does tru-track do with a raw GPS signal? I can > see a 496 putting out desired track, waypoint and course info - but ??? > > Phil > > > On Wed, Nov 1, 2017 at 3:51 PM Tim Olson wrote: > > > I have 2 of the BR-355's as well. > I only mentioned the GPS18 because it's one that may be > more familiar to some people, and can do 9600 baud. > > That said, my advice for you is this if you go the BR-355 route: > > Contact GlobalSat...they will sell you a 9600 baud version of > the BR-355. I bought 2 of them from them last year. I have one > of them in my RV-14, in fact, set up with a switch to be the backup > GPS for my TruTrak. They're a good little GPS that you can > buy for under $50. I don't think you NEED 9600 baud for the > TruTrak, but I'd go that route if at all possible. > > Tim > > On 11/1/2017 2:12 PM, Jim Combs wrote: > > I have been using one of these with no issues: > > > > > > GlobalSat BR-355 Serial GPS Receiver > > > > > ========== > -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www. > matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > FORUMS - > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > WIKI - > errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com > ========== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > -- > > Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ > www.itsnotthatcomplex.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Date: Nov 02, 2017
I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, looking for help. I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to open. Anyone have experience with this? A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or otherwise advise? Thanks. (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watson --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ipad gps
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 02, 2017
Power may be the hardest part about the BR-355. I can't remember for sure but I think it runs on 5V. So I had to throw together a simple 5V regulator that I mounted nearby and ran 12V into that. That's one thing about the Garmin GPS 18...I'm not sure if it reduces the 12V in the lighter plug, or if it's 12V all the way to the puck, but it may eliminate one step of getting something that works. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/27594 For the BR-355, I cut the connector right off, wired it to a DB9, and hooked up my own power module to power it. Tim On 11/01/2017 05:44 PM, Albert wrote: > This from TruTraks Installation Information: The Garmin 496 was wired to > Pin 7. > > Pin 7 is Primary Serial Input. Baud rate selectable 1200, 2400, 4800 or > 9600 baud. Automatically decodes NMEA-0183, Garmin Aviation Format, or > Apollo/UPSAT MovingMap or GPSS format. Provides directional reference to > the autopilot. > > How does the Global Sat BR-355 get power and how does the GPS signal > come out of it? The picture looks like it has a USB connector. Does it > have a serial connector also? I'm very interested because it looks like > that might be all that I need. > > Albert Gardner ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 02, 2017
I have version 4.1.0 if you need. You're right that if you run the app, it will upgrade your firmware. Mine is far newer than 2012, but not the 5.0 that Bob talks about. I have seen one person who couldn't get it to load on their system, due to an issue with the system, but I was able to load it on 3 of them. Tim On 11/02/2017 10:01 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > > I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified > GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, > looking for help. > > I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get > an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to > open. Anyone have experience with this? > > A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a > version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box > (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). > > Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or > otherwise advise? Thanks. > > (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) > > Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watson > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Subject: Re: ipad gps
Date: Nov 02, 2017
I have a Garmin puck feeding my ELT running off of a 5V DC-DC converter: Recom Power R-78W5.0-0.5 Mouser has it for under $8.40. The puck comes with a cigarette lighter adapter, but the 5V converter is much smaller. Lenny > On Nov 2, 2017, at 11:09 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > > Power may be the hardest part about the BR-355. I can't remember for > sure but I think it runs on 5V. So I had to throw together a simple > 5V regulator that I mounted nearby and ran 12V into that. > > That's one thing about the Garmin GPS 18...I'm not sure if it reduces > the 12V in the lighter plug, or if it's 12V all the way to the puck, > but it may eliminate one step of getting something that works. > > https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/27594 > > For the BR-355, I cut the connector right off, wired it to a DB9, > and hooked up my own power module to power it. > Tim > > > > > > On 11/01/2017 05:44 PM, Albert wrote: >> This from TruTraks Installation Information: The Garmin 496 was wired to Pin 7. >> Pin 7 is Primary Serial Input. Baud rate selectable 1200, 2400, 4800 or 9600 baud. Automatically decodes NMEA-0183, Garmin Aviation Format, or Apollo/UPSAT MovingMap or GPSS format. Provides directional reference to the autopilot. >> How does the Global Sat BR-355 get power and how does the GPS signal come out of it? The picture looks like it has a USB connector. Does it have a serial connector also? I'm very interested because it looks like that might be all that I need. >> Albert Gardner > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Date: Nov 02, 2017
If you need 4.1.0 and the manual, let me know. I haven't been able to locate anyone that has 5.0 yet. Get Outlook for iOS ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic s.com> on behalf of Bill Watson Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:01:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, looking for help. I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to open. Anyone have experience with this? A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or otherwise advise? Thanks. (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watson --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 02, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
Exactly. If you get a puck, plan to just chop the cable up anyway. In the end you can make it smaller and lighter and not have to deal with anyones special plug. Tim > On Nov 2, 2017, at 10:28 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote: > > > I have a Garmin puck feeding my ELT running off of a 5V DC-DC converter: Recom Power R-78W5.0-0.5 > Mouser has it for under $8.40. > The puck comes with a cigarette lighter adapter, but the 5V converter is much smaller. > > Lenny > > >> On Nov 2, 2017, at 11:09 AM, Tim Olson wrote: >> >> >> Power may be the hardest part about the BR-355. I can't remember for >> sure but I think it runs on 5V. So I had to throw together a simple >> 5V regulator that I mounted nearby and ran 12V into that. >> >> That's one thing about the Garmin GPS 18...I'm not sure if it reduces >> the 12V in the lighter plug, or if it's 12V all the way to the puck, >> but it may eliminate one step of getting something that works. >> >> https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/27594 >> >> For the BR-355, I cut the connector right off, wired it to a DB9, >> and hooked up my own power module to power it. >> Tim >> >> >> >> >> >>> On 11/01/2017 05:44 PM, Albert wrote: >>> This from TruTraks Installation Information: The Garmin 496 was wired to Pin 7. >>> Pin 7 is Primary Serial Input. Baud rate selectable 1200, 2400, 4800 or 9600 baud. Automatically decodes NMEA-0183, Garmin Aviation Format, or Apollo/UPSAT MovingMap or GPSS format. Provides directional reference to the autopilot. >>> How does the Global Sat BR-355 get power and how does the GPS signal come out of it? The picture looks like it has a USB connector. Does it have a serial connector also? I'm very interested because it looks like that might be all that I need. >>> Albert Gardner >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Nov 02, 2017
The Mauledriver email is just for posting. My email is BillisinDurham - gmail (without the 'is'). I have the current manual from the Dallas folks. Thanks all! On 11/2/2017 11:01 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > > I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified > GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, > looking for help. > > I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but > get an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if > fails to open. Anyone have experience with this? > > A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a > version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box > (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). > > Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or > otherwise advise? Thanks. > > (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) > > Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" > Watson > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: ipad gps
Date: Nov 02, 2017
OK, I found a 5V power supply on ebay for $8+ but looking at the listings for the BR-355 shows also a BR-355S4 which is much cheaper. What is the difference between the units? Listing for the BR-355 are over $200. (I did find a listing for a BR-355 from China for $15 + $13 shipping!!!). Albert Gardner RV-10 N991RV Yuma, Arizona ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ipad gps
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 02, 2017
I don't know with 100% certainty but I think the biggest difference is likely that the S4 model uses the SiRF IV chipset whereas the regular BR355 may use an older or different chipset. They are both cheap: BR-355-S4 for $27.00 https://www.amazon.com/GlobalSat-BR-355S4-GPS-Receiver-Black/dp/B00AMAJFUO BR-355 for $33.95 https://www.amazon.com/GlobalSat-BR-355-Serial-GPS-Receiver/dp/B000VUFGF8 I don't see the ability on their website to directly compare the BR-355 with no suffix, but when I compare the -W with the -S4, the difference is SiRF III vs SiRF IV, and SiRF III does 20 channels wheras the SiRF IV does 48, and boots up a little quicker. I can tell you that when I had them sell me the ones that defaulted to 9600 baud, I got the BR-355-S4 version. I paid around $50 for that. If I didn't have the baud rate fixed, it would lose it's baud setting on power-off. I bought mine for APRS tracking and wanted to be able to use 9600 baud for that. I also feed my TruTrak as a secondary GPS. Hot tip: There's a magnet in the case that you can pull the sticker off and then use a screwdriver to pry the magnet out of it. I didn't want a magnet anywhere near my plane. Once the magnet is out, the puck weighs almost nothing and you can secure it with velcro somewhere. I have one in a wingtip and one under the VS fairing and both work perfectly. Something like that DC-DC converter you found will work well. I think I have that on one of them, and on the other I used an LM7805 5V regulator similar to this, along with a couple other components: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/107 cheap to do either way. Lenny's DC-DC converter I think is this one: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RECOM/R-78W50-05/?qs=T0XSgvH75d6ym%2FmhBy%252boCA%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwhOvPBRBxEiwAx2nhLm6kZTNFsk-7LUrrI2uK_jNuTKkH5mIPGaB6Xfr_sIi4wxc-4RUORRoClb4QAvD_BwE It's also cheap and simple. You don't need a lot of wattage to drive this GPS. His can use source voltages of 6.5 to 32V, so may be a real nice option. Your GPS would be one of the last things in the panel to die if you lose power, and would be one of the better power-spike survivors at 32V. Tim On 11/2/2017 11:46 AM, Albert wrote: > > OK, I found a 5V power supply on ebay for $8+ but looking at the listings for the BR-355 shows also a BR-355S4 which is much cheaper. What is the difference between the units? Listing for the BR-355 are over $200. (I did find a listing for a BR-355 from China for $15 + $13 shipping!!!). > Albert Gardner > RV-10 N991RV > Yuma, Arizona > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 02, 2017
Subject: Re: ipad gps
Yes the BR-355 5 V. On the Advanced Flight system, I used the sensor +5 output to drive the BR-355. There are also three terminal TO-220 case regulators that are ideal for powering this. They will take up to 35V input and are current and temperature regulated. Jim C On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 11:09 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Power may be the hardest part about the BR-355. I can't remember for > sure but I think it runs on 5V. So I had to throw together a simple > 5V regulator that I mounted nearby and ran 12V into that. > > That's one thing about the Garmin GPS 18...I'm not sure if it reduces > the 12V in the lighter plug, or if it's 12V all the way to the puck, > but it may eliminate one step of getting something that works. > > https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/27594 > > For the BR-355, I cut the connector right off, wired it to a DB9, > and hooked up my own power module to power it. > Tim > > > On 11/01/2017 05:44 PM, Albert wrote: > >> This from TruTraks Installation Information: The Garmin 496 was wired to >> Pin 7. >> >> Pin 7 is Primary Serial Input. Baud rate selectable 1200, 2400, 4800 or >> 9600 baud. Automatically decodes NMEA-0183, Garmin Aviation Format, or >> Apollo/UPSAT MovingMap or GPSS format. Provides directional reference to >> the autopilot. >> >> How does the Global Sat BR-355 get power and how does the GPS signal come >> out of it? The picture looks like it has a USB connector. Does it have a >> serial connector also? I'm very interested because it looks like that might >> be all that I need. >> >> Albert Gardner >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Dear Listers, There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums. The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November Fund Raiser. Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution too! You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Help Keep Airport Courtesy Cars Running
From: "gbrasch" <airportcars101(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 04, 2017
Last November, a few people (out of thousands) complained to me that my fundraising efforts for the Airport Courtesy Cars site were too often. In response, I will only ask for donations once a year, in November. In the past few months I have transferred all the data to a web based platform. As a result, the site will work on ANY device with no bugs, crashes, or Android and Apple permissions required. Please refer to website for more details. The site now lists over 1,830 courtesy cars across the U.S. I receive a very small percent of my operating costs from advertisers. Most of my expenses are covered from small donations from pilots like you. I take no salary. Please consider any donation to keep the site up and running in the coming year. Donations can be made via the secure PayPal tab on the site (you don not need a PayPal account), or by mailing your donation to: Airport Courtesy Cars. P.O. Box 85762, Tucson, Arizona 85754. All donors will be listed on the donor page (unless you request not to be). Any donation is greatly appreciated. Please share this post with a fellow pilot who might benefit from A.C.C.s You can continue to email me your updates and suggestions to: airportcars101(at)gmail.com Thank you, Glenn www.airportcourtesycars.com -------- Glenn Brasch RV-9A Flying Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret) Owner, "Airport Courtesy Cars" Website www.airportcourtesycars.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474311#474311 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution
Today! Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tunnel Leak
From: "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2017
Doing my first condition inspection and everything going great until removed tunnel cover and saw some blue staining on floor and all over boost pump.....obviously a leak so I began trouble shooting. After pressurization I noticed pool of fuel coming from under pump near front and felt fuel there. I had no leak during phase one I know because I flew with cover off. Initial thought was poor connection between pump and firewall (my FF senor is not in tunnel). I re-torqued line and still leak. I removed and inspected line - looked good so cleaned and replaced and still leak. Then I remade entire line replaced and still leak. My suspicion now is that pump itself is leaking because the stain is mostly on pump and floor but pump is raised off floor (so couldn't get stain form other part of system not directly connected to pump) and none of those other fixes worked. Have any of you seen this before and if so how would you test to see if pump is bad? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474431#474431 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Tunnel Leak
Date: Nov 05, 2017
Assuming you have an afp pump, give don Rivera a call on Monday. Either d on or Kyle can answer your questions. They=92re pretty good folks to work with. Get Outlook for iOS ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic s.com> on behalf of mhealydds Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2017 10:57:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: Tunnel Leak Doing my first condition inspection and everything going great until remove d tunnel cover and saw some blue staining on floor and all over boost pump. ....obviously a leak so I began trouble shooting. After pressurization I no ticed pool of fuel coming from under pump near front and felt fuel there. I had no leak during phase one I know because I flew with cover off. Initial thought was poor connection between pump and firewall (my FF senor is not in tunnel). I re-torqued line and still leak. I removed and inspected line - looked good so cleaned and replaced and still leak. Then I remade entire line replaced and still leak. My suspicion now is that pump itself is leaki ng because the stain is mostly on pump and floor but pump is raised off flo or (so couldn't get stain form other part of system not directly connected to pump) and none of those other fixes worked. Have any of you seen this be fore and if so how would you test to see if pump is bad? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474431#474431 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Nov 05, 2017
Hi I am close to making a decision on whether or not to use vernier control knobs or quadrant controls for Prop / Throttle / Mixture. With the Aerosport interior, I can put the quadrant on the panel or on the center console. For those who have already made this decision, I'd be interested in opinions etc. Cheers Les C-GROK (some assembly required) C-GCWZ (Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474445#474445 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2017
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
Les, I have the throttle quadrant and would not do it again. I love the look of it, but I really miss out on being able to fine adjust my mixture. Shannon On Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 4:25 PM kearney wrote: > > Hi > > I am close to making a decision on whether or not to use vernier control > knobs or quadrant controls for Prop / Throttle / Mixture. With the > Aerosport interior, I can put the quadrant on the panel or on the center > console. > > For those who have already made this decision, I'd be interested in > opinions etc. > > Cheers > > Les > > C-GROK (some assembly required) > C-GCWZ (Flying) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474445#474445 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2017
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
Hi Les, If you can get a chance to fly an airplane with the quadrant, it would really help you. This is one of those things that is strictly personal preference. Ive flown both and found I prefer the stock controls. Back when I bought mine, stock from Vans was a straight push-pull throttle and vernier prop and mixture. I had owned a Bonanza prior to the -10 and it had vernier on all three. I definitely prefer no vernier on the throttle, but love it on prop and mixture for fine tuning. I know youll hear from others that love their quadrants. For what its worth, I rarely fly formation these days but I am pretty sure most serious formation organizations dont allow, or really frown on, vernier throttles. David Maib > On Nov 5, 2017, at 5:21 PM, kearney wrote: > > > Hi > > I am close to making a decision on whether or not to use vernier control knobs or quadrant controls for Prop / Throttle / Mixture. With the Aerosport interior, I can put the quadrant on the panel or on the center console. > > For those who have already made this decision, I'd be interested in opinions etc. > > Cheers > > Les > > C-GROK (some assembly required) > C-GCWZ (Flying) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474445#474445 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2017
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
I have the traditional push/pulls and really like them. All of my cables come from McFarlane and they sell a non-locking Vernier throttle. (IE: A normal-looking throttle cable that you can push/pull like a normal throttle cable without having to push down a lock, but that you can fine tune by twisting too.) I dont regret the non-locking vernier at all, but Im not really sure how much extra functionality it brings (and I dont remember the cost difference to add that functionality either). But most of the time, it takes quite a few twists to change .1 of MP. Its really just as easy, and probably faster, to push the knob in and hunt for the right spot. For the RV-10, it really likes to perform up high and that means the black knob is pushed forward all the way anyway..... so there isnt much fine tuning in a typical cruise. Like I said, I dont regret the non-locking vernier throttle, but I am not sure if its really worth the money. If we are talking under $100 then, yeah maybe its worth it. But beyond that Id question if Id really need it again. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 5, 2017, at 5:16 PM, David Maib wrote: > > > Hi Les, > If you can get a chance to fly an airplane with the quadrant, it would really help you. This is one of those things that is strictly personal preference. Ive flown both and found I prefer the stock controls. Back when I bought mine, stock from Vans was a straight push-pull throttle and vernier prop and mixture. I had owned a Bonanza prior to the -10 and it had vernier on all three. I definitely prefer no vernier on the throttle, but love it on prop and mixture for fine tuning. I know youll hear from others that love their quadrants. For what its worth, I rarely fly formation these days but I am pretty sure most serious formation organizations dont allow, or really frown on, vernier throttles. > > David Maib > > >> On Nov 5, 2017, at 5:21 PM, kearney wrote: >> >> >> Hi >> >> I am close to making a decision on whether or not to use vernier control knobs or quadrant controls for Prop / Throttle / Mixture. With the Aerosport interior, I can put the quadrant on the panel or on the center console. >> >> For those who have already made this decision, I'd be interested in opinions etc. >> >> Cheers >> >> Les >> >> C-GROK (some assembly required) >> C-GCWZ (Flying) >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474445#474445 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
Date: Nov 06, 2017
I had a Diamond Katana with center console mounted controls and wanted my -10 to have the throttle quadrant in the same place. Had to make a custom center console to do that. It worked out well. Glad to see that Geoff now offers that configuration. With the throttle quadrant in the center console you can just slide your arm forward on the armrest and you are on the controls. Pretty convenient. For fine control you can anchor your fingers on the right side of the console and move the knobs with your thumb. The lining in the original (green) cables melts after a while and it becomes hard to fine tune the mixture and even the prop. Ever since I switched to the black cables from Push-pull.com all the controls have been smooth and adjusting the mixture accurately is never an issue. Here=99s a picture of an early 3D rendering of my panel/console. Lenny > On Nov 5, 2017, at 5:21 PM, kearney wrote: > > > Hi > > I am close to making a decision on whether or not to use vernier control knobs or quadrant controls for Prop / Throttle / Mixture. With the Aerosport interior, I can put the quadrant on the panel or on the center console. > > For those who have already made this decision, I'd be interested in opinions etc. > > Cheers > > Les > > C-GROK (some assembly required) > C-GCWZ (Flying) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474445#474445 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2017
I have the same McFarlane vernier push pull. IIRC the ratio on the throttle varies with how snug the friction lock is set. It is useful when seeking precise power settings to gather data, whether it is speeds, mixture, temps, etc. I'm happy with a quadrant in a multi-engine aircraft. but prefer push pull for single engine. On 11/5/2017 4:50 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I have the traditional push/pulls and really like them. All of my cables come from McFarlane and they sell a non-locking Vernier throttle. 'm h (IE: A normal-looking throttle cable that you can push/pull like a normal throttle cable without having to push down a lock, but that you can fine tune by twisting too.) > > I dont regret the non-locking vernier at all, but Im not really sure how much extra functionality it brings (and I dont remember the cost difference to add that functionality either). > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com>
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
Date: Nov 05, 2017
Hey Les. My config is the quadrant under the panel on the Aerosport centre console. It's pretty much in the same position as http://www.aerosportproducts.com/rv10quadrant.htm though it looks a bit different (they've probably changed the design a couple of times since I bought it). I do like it there - really comfortable to have my hand on the controls while resting my arm on the armrest. I suppose a person would get used to whatever they have, but I can't imagine mine being somewhere different :-) Dan > On 2017-Nov-05, at 3:21 PM, kearney wrote: > > > Hi > > I am close to making a decision on whether or not to use vernier control knobs or quadrant controls for Prop / Throttle / Mixture. With the Aerosport interior, I can put the quadrant on the panel or on the center console. > > For those who have already made this decision, I'd be interested in opinions etc. > > Cheers > > Les > > C-GROK (some assembly required) > C-GCWZ (Flying) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474445#474445 > > > > > > > > > --- Dan Charrois President, Syzygy Research & Technology Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2017
Kellym wrote: > > I'm happy with a quadrant in a multi-engine aircraft. but prefer push > pull for single engine. > > [/quote] Definitely agree. Quadrant with a multi-engine airplane works best. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 New Smyrna Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474460#474460 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Doc <docclv(at)windstream.net>
Subject: engine controls on RV10
Date: Nov 06, 2017
Les: Another advantage to putting your engine controls on the panel (vernier controls vs quadrant controls) is the convenient space above the center channel to mount a map box for POH, check list, glasses, etc. Doc 123CV #41087 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
Date: Nov 06, 2017
Happy with a quadrant except when I'm upside down with my head under the panel! Albert Gardner RV-10 N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David J. Fritzsche" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com>
Subject: Flap motor safety wire hole
Date: Nov 06, 2017
Does anyone have a good tip for drilling the safety wire hole in the barrel of the flap motor. The instructions say do not remove the end as it is factory set. However I would think keeping track of the number of turns it is unscrewed should be easy to do. Drilling with a 1/16" drill into steel seems like a good way to buy drill bits. Am I stressing over a mole hill? David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Flap motor safety wire hole
Date: Nov 06, 2017
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Subject: Re: Flap motor safety wire hole
From: "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 07, 2017
To Comply with SB 07-4-12 ....... I drilled straight in (parallel to jackscrew) just to clear the rod end safety jam nut about 5/16 then vertically down to capture the previous hole. That minimised the chance of bursting out trying to drill an angled hole. As well as the safety wire, most over here are also making a small ally fitting of appropriate gauge to lay alongside the jackscrew and the rod end, with a hole large enough to allow the normal tightening of flap bolt on the rod end ball, then at the jackscrew end, bent to go around the jackscrew and secured with a clamp. Might be overkill but thats what is being done. Cheers from Western Australia Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474492#474492 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap motor safety wire hole
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Date: Nov 07, 2017
Greg, any picture :) On 07.11.2017 11:33, Greg McFarlane wrote: > > To Comply with SB 07-4-12 ....... I drilled straight in (parallel to jackscrew) just to clear the rod end safety jam nut about 5/16 then vertically down to capture the previous hole. That minimised the chance of bursting out trying to drill an angled hole. As well as the safety wire, most over here are also making a small ally fitting of appropriate gauge to lay alongside the jackscrew and the rod end, with a hole large enough to allow the normal tightening of flap bolt on the rod end ball, then at the jackscrew end, bent to go around the jackscrew and secured with a clamp. Might be overkill but thats what is being done. Cheers from Western Australia > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Dear Listers, There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums. The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November Fund Raiser. Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution too! You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 07, 2017
Subject: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken nose bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is running about $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is coming up short. Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the Cleveland number? Thanks, --Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Don Orrick <don.orrick(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 07, 2017
Subject: Re: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
Local auto parts store can order them or a local bearing supply co can get them Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2017, at 6:26 PM, David Saylor wrote: > > Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken nose bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is running about $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is coming up short. > > Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the Cleveland number? > > Thanks, > > --Dave > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
Date: Nov 07, 2017
I'll second the possible auto parts angle the following is my order from a few years ago after hurricane high water got on my wheels and I couldn't get them apart in time to prevent corrosion. These aren't the FAA/PMA flavor but they have been running fine for 300 hours and 4 conditional inspections. Double check the numbers and my research. -Chris N919AR > Motion Industries > Release No: Date: 10/13/2011 > F.O.B: FOB ORG,FRT PP&ADD > Terms: . CASH > Delivery: STOCK UNLESS NOTED > Qty Description Requested Date > > 4.0 TIMKEN LM29749 CONE 10/19/2011 > Item No..........: 00658750 > Cust Stk No .....: > Price............: 15.120 60.48 > > > > 4.0 TIMKEN LM29710 CUP 10/19/2011 > Item No..........: 00658736 > Cust Stk No .....: > Price............: 9.360 37.44 > > > > > SUBTOTAL 97.92 > FREIGHT* 9.89 > TAX 7.28 > TOTAL** 115.09 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Saylor Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2017 7:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Cleveland Wheel Bearings Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken nose bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is running about $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is coming up short. Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the Cleveland number? Thanks, --Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 07, 2017
Yeah I've taken them in to a local place in town before called "Bearing Headquarters" and they can get just about anything. Tim On 11/7/2017 7:17 PM, Don Orrick wrote: > > Local auto parts store can order them or a local bearing supply co can get them > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 7, 2017, at 6:26 PM, David Saylor wrote: >> >> Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken nose bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is running about $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is coming up short. >> >> Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the Cleveland number? >> >> Thanks, >> >> --Dave >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Nov 07, 2017
Once you get replacements, be aware that Cleveland has changed their grease recommendations. Aeroshell #5 is no longer 1st choice. First choice is Mobil SHC 100, which is a red synthetic grease. Skygeek carries an appropriate sized tube. The rest of suppliers, last I looked only carry 5 lbs and up. I do not know reason Cleveland changed their recommendation. Kelly On 11/7/2017 7:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Yeah I've taken them in to a local place in town before > called "Bearing Headquarters" and they can get just > about anything. > Tim > > On 11/7/2017 7:17 PM, Don Orrick wrote: >> >> Local auto parts store can order them or a local bearing supply co can >> get them >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 7, 2017, at 6:26 PM, David Saylor wrote: >>> >>> Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken >>> nose bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is >>> running about $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it >>> doesn't have to be this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is >>> coming up short. >>> >>> Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the >>> Cleveland number? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> --Dave >>> >>> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 07, 2017
Subject: Re: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
Thank you Chris, that's just what I needed. --Dave On Tue, Nov 7, 2017 at 6:00 PM, Chris wrote: > I'll second the possible auto parts angle the following is my order from a > few years ago after hurricane high water got on my wheels and I couldn't > get them apart in time to prevent corrosion. > > These aren't the FAA/PMA flavor but they have been running fine for 300 > hours and 4 conditional inspections. Double check the numbers and my > research. > > -Chris > > N919AR > > > > Motion Industries > > > Release No: Date: 10/13/2011 > > > F.O.B: FOB ORG,FRT PP&ADD > > > Terms: . CASH > > > Delivery: STOCK UNLESS NOTED > > > Qty Description Requested > Date > > > > > > 4.0 TIMKEN LM29749 CONE > 10/19/2011 > > > Item No..........: 00658750 > > > Cust Stk No .....: > > > Price............: 15.120 60.48 > > > > > > > > > > > > 4.0 TIMKEN LM29710 CUP > 10/19/2011 > > > Item No..........: 00658736 > > > Cust Stk No .....: > > > Price............: 9.360 37.44 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > SUBTOTAL 97.92 > > > FREIGHT* 9.89 > > > TAX 7.28 > > > TOTAL** 115.09 > > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David Saylor > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2017 7:27 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Cleveland Wheel Bearings > > > Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken nose > bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is running about > $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be > this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is coming up short. > > > Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the Cleveland > number? > > > Thanks, > > > --Dave > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap motor safety wire hole
From: "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 07, 2017
Unfortunately no picture, and a bit hard to get into the tunnel area to get one quickly [Rolling Eyes] However Ally fitting in length is about inch and half along jackscrew and long enough to allow a approx3/8 hole (hole, large enough fit over the spacer) in rod end-end.............Width, wide enough to allow for the 3/8 hole at one end, and cut wider back at the jackscrew end to allow tabs to be bent/wrapped around the shaft for extra grip, then secured with a clamp, adele or hose. Same effect as safety wire in that if the rod end jam nut was to come loose then the jackscrew would be restrained from turning because the fitting is secured by the standard mounting bolt. Just needs to fit snug along rod end and jackscrew and not interfere with the normal flap operation, especially the normal tightening of the rod end bolt. Greg Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474610#474610 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Date: Nov 08, 2017
Does anyone know if AMCO applies to Avidyne ID-540? Thanks. > On Nov 2, 2017, at 9:38 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > If you need 4.1.0 and the manual, let me know. > > I haven=99t been able to locate anyone that has 5.0 yet. > > Get Outlook for iOS > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > on behalf of Bill Watson > > Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:01:53 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console > > > > I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified > GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, > looking for help. > > I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get > an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to > open. Anyone have experience with this? > > A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a > version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box > (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). > > Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or > otherwise advise? Thanks. > > (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) > > Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watson > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > ========== > Email Forum - > -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> > ========== > p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > ums.matronics.com <http://ums.matronics.com/> > ========== > p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - > matronics.com <http://matronics.com/> > ========== > p; - List Contribution Web Site - > p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> > ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2017
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Rob, The three AMOCS that have been approved are all for Garmin products. That having been said, the most recent responses from the FAA indicate that they may be open to approving other data sources that output the "ADS-B OUT+" protocol as it contains the necessary data elements required for position reporting. In my updated AMOC, they specifically reference the ADS-B OUT+ protocol. If the Avidyne outputs it, you should be able to get approval... I would suggest putting the AMOC together like we did - we can provide you with what we submitted as a sample if you want... Ralph -----Original Message----- From: Rob Kermanj Sent: Nov 8, 2017 8:52 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console Does anyone know if AMCO applies to Avidyne ID-540? Thanks. On Nov 2, 2017, at 9:38 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: If you need 4.1.0 and the manual, let me know. I havent been able to locate anyone that has 5.0 yet. Get Outlook for iOSFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Bill Watson Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:01:53 AM I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, looking for help. I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to open. Anyone have experience with this? A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or otherwise advise? Thanks. (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watson --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ========== Email Forum - -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - ums.matronics.com ========== p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - matronics.com ========== p; - List Contribution Web Site - p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 08, 2017
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Ralph, thanks for the quick reply. Please send me the package you provided to the FAA. I spoke to Avidyne and they researching it on their end. I will forward your email (if OK with you) to Avidyne and a copy of my proposal to FAA so they also remain in the loop. Thanks again Rob. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 8, 2017, at 7:31 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > > Rob, > > The three AMOCS that have been approved are all for Garmin products. > That having been said, the most recent responses from the FAA indicate that they may be open to approving other data sources that output the "ADS-B OUT+" protocol as it contains the necessary data elements required for position reporting. In my updated AMOC, they specifically reference the ADS-B OUT+ protocol. If the Avidyne outputs it, you should be able to get approval... > > I would suggest putting the AMOC together like we did - we can provide you with what we submitted as a sample if you want... > > Ralph > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rob Kermanj > > Sent: Nov 8, 2017 8:52 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console > > > > Does anyone know if AMCO applies to Avidyne ID-540? > Thanks. > On Nov 2, 2017, at 9:38 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > If you need 4.1.0 and the manual, let me know. > I havent been able to locate anyone that has 5.0 yet. > Get Outlook for iOSFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Bill Watson > Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:01:53 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified > GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, > looking for help. > > I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get > an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to > open. Anyone have experience with this? > > A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a > version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box > (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). > > Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or > otherwise advise? Thanks. > > (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) > > Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watson > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > ========== > Email Forum - > -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > ums.matronics.com > ========== > p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - > matronics.com > ========== > p; - List Contribution Web Site - > p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Nov 08, 2017
Request for background: What kind off experience have people had with failing/damaged/rusting wheel bearings vis-a-vis maintenance of wheel bearing? I operate off a sometimes wet and mushy field where my wheels get quite a dousing. Each condition inspection, I've been repacking the bearings. So far I have seen any signs of rusting - is there something else I should be looking for? Bill "6 years and 900+ hours on same bearings, color me curious" Watson On 11/7/2017 7:26 PM, David Saylor wrote: > Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken nose > bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is running > about $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it doesn't > have to be this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is coming up > short. > > Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the > Cleveland number? > > Thanks, > > --Dave > > --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Date: Nov 08, 2017
The avidyne does indeed support adsb+ I can assist with writing the AMOC. It will literally take 5-10 minutes to create the doc to send to the FAA Email me if you want to go down that path. Get Outlook for iOS ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic s.com> on behalf of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 9:31:07 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console Rob, The three AMOCS that have been approved are all for Garmin products. That having been said, the most recent responses from the FAA indicate that they may be open to approving other data sources that output the "ADS-B OU T+" protocol as it contains the necessary data elements required for positi on reporting. In my updated AMOC, they specifically reference the ADS-B OU T+ protocol. If the Avidyne outputs it, you should be able to get approval ... I would suggest putting the AMOC together like we did - we can provide you with what we submitted as a sample if you want... Ralph -----Original Message----- From: Rob Kermanj Sent: Nov 8, 2017 8:52 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console Does anyone know if AMCO applies to Avidyne ID-540? Thanks. On Nov 2, 2017, at 9:38 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: If you need 4.1.0 and the manual, let me know. I haven=92t been able to locate anyone that has 5.0 yet. Get Outlook for iOSFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-l ist-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Bill Watson Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:01:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console --> RV10-List message p osted by: Bill Watson I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, looking for help. I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to open. Anyone have experience with this? A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or otherwise advise? Thanks. (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watson --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Email Forum - -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - ums.matronics.com p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - matronics.com p; - List Contribution Web Site - p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 08, 2017
Subject: Re: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
Right, SHC 100 looks a lot like Mobil 28 but it's lighter red IIRC. I used it last year. --Dave On Tue, Nov 7, 2017 at 7:09 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Once you get replacements, be aware that Cleveland has changed their > grease recommendations. Aeroshell #5 is no longer 1st choice. > First choice is Mobil SHC 100, which is a red synthetic grease. > Skygeek carries an appropriate sized tube. The rest of suppliers, last I > looked only carry 5 lbs and up. > I do not know reason Cleveland changed their recommendation. > Kelly > > On 11/7/2017 7:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > >> >> Yeah I've taken them in to a local place in town before >> called "Bearing Headquarters" and they can get just >> about anything. >> Tim >> >> On 11/7/2017 7:17 PM, Don Orrick wrote: >> >>> >>> Local auto parts store can order them or a local bearing supply co can >>> get them >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 7, 2017, at 6:26 PM, David Saylor wrote: >>>> >>>> Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken nose >>>> bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is running about >>>> $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be >>>> this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is coming up short. >>>> >>>> Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the >>>> Cleveland number? >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> --Dave >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 08, 2017
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Thanks Bob. Yes ...please, please. What do you need from me? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 8, 2017, at 8:05 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > The avidyne does indeed support adsb+ > > I can assist with writing the AMOC. It will literally take 5-10 minutes t o create the doc to send to the FAA > > Email me if you want to go down that path. > > Get Outlook for iOS > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matroni cs.com> on behalf of Ralph E. Capen > Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 9:31:07 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console > > > Rob, > > The three AMOCS that have been approved are all for Garmin products. > That having been said, the most recent responses from the FAA indicate tha t they may be open to approving other data sources that output the "ADS-B OU T+" protocol as it contains the necessary data elements required for positio n reporting. In my updated AMOC, they specifically reference the ADS-B OUT+ protocol. If the Avidyne outputs it, you should be able to get approval... > > I would suggest putting the AMOC together like we did - we can provide you with what we submitted as a sample if you want... > > Ralph > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rob Kermanj > > Sent: Nov 8, 2017 8:52 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console > > > > Does anyone know if AMCO applies to Avidyne ID-540? > Thanks. > On Nov 2, 2017, at 9:38 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > If you need 4.1.0 and the manual, let me know. > I haven=99t been able to locate anyone that has 5.0 yet. > Get Outlook for iOSFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10- list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Bill Watson > Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:01:53 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console --> RV10-List message p osted by: Bill Watson > > I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified > GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, > looking for help. > > I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get > an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to > open. Anyone have experience with this? > > A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a > version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box > (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). > > Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or > otherwise advise? Thanks. > > (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) > > Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watso n > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > ========== > Email Forum - > -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > ums.matronics.com > ========== > p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - > matronics.com > ========== > p; - List Contribution Web Site - > p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > > ========== > Email Forum - > -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > ums.matronics.com > ========== > p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - > matronics.com > ========== > p; - List Contribution Web Site - > p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Date: Nov 08, 2017
Wire the Avidyne to the ads600-b using the adsb+ protocol. I don=92t recall if there is an Avidyne example in the Navworx manual. Use the gtn650/gns430w as an example. The gps pins will be different, but the NavWorxs side will be the same. Disconnect the internal gps antenna Change the Navworx configuration to use the external gps Validate that you have three green status indicators Fly and get a copy of the public performance report from the FAA. If there is an Avidyne schematic in the Navworx manual, we can cut and past e that, if not you=92ll have to create an installation schematic. Again, use the Garmin schematics as an example. Then let me know. It=92s a simple cut and paste job using my application as a template. Get Outlook for iOS ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic s.com> on behalf of Rob Kermanj Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 11:02:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console Thanks Bob. Yes ...please, please. What do you need from me? Sent from my iPhone On Nov 8, 2017, at 8:05 AM, Bob Leffler > wrote: The avidyne does indeed support adsb+ I can assist with writing the AMOC. It will literally take 5-10 minutes to create the doc to send to the FAA Email me if you want to go down that path. Get Outlook for iOS ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma tronics.com> > on behalf of Ralph E. Capen > Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 9:31:07 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console ilto:recapen(at)earthlink.net>> Rob, The three AMOCS that have been approved are all for Garmin products. That having been said, the most recent responses from the FAA indicate that they may be open to approving other data sources that output the "ADS-B OU T+" protocol as it contains the necessary data elements required for positi on reporting. In my updated AMOC, they specifically reference the ADS-B OU T+ protocol. If the Avidyne outputs it, you should be able to get approval ... I would suggest putting the AMOC together like we did - we can provide you with what we submitted as a sample if you want... Ralph -----Original Message----- From: Rob Kermanj Sent: Nov 8, 2017 8:52 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console Does anyone know if AMCO applies to Avidyne ID-540? Thanks. On Nov 2, 2017, at 9:38 AM, Bob Leffler > wrote: If you need 4.1.0 and the manual, let me know. I haven=92t been able to locate anyone that has 5.0 yet. Get Outlook for iOSFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner- rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> > on behalf of Bill Watson > Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:01:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console --> RV10-List message p osted by: Bill Watson > I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, looking for help. I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to open. Anyone have experience with this? A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or otherwise advise? Thanks. (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Watson --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Email Forum - -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - ums.matronics.com<http://ums.matronics.com> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - matronics.com<http://matronics.com> p; - List Contribution Web Site - p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. http://www.matronics.com/contribution Email Forum - -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - ums.matronics.com<http://ums.matronics.com> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - matronics.com<http://matronics.com> p; - List Contribution Web Site - p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 08, 2017
Subject: Re: Need latest Navworx UAT Console
Thanks Bob. Will do. Will let you how it turns out. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 8, 2017, at 2:52 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > Wire the Avidyne to the ads600-b using the adsb+ protocol. > > I don=99t recall if there is an Avidyne example in the Navworx manua l. > > Use the gtn650/gns430w as an example. The gps pins will be different, bu t the NavWorxs side will be the same. > > Disconnect the internal gps antenna > > Change the Navworx configuration to use the external gps > > Validate that you have three green status indicators > > Fly and get a copy of the public performance report from the FAA. > > If there is an Avidyne schematic in the Navworx manual, we can cut and pas te that, if not you=99ll have to create an installation schematic. A gain, use the Garmin schematics as an example. > > Then let me know. It=99s a simple cut and paste job using my appli cation as a template. > > Get Outlook for iOS > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matroni cs.com> on behalf of Rob Kermanj > Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 11:02:27 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console > > Thanks Bob. Yes ...please, please. What do you need from me? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 8, 2017, at 8:05 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > >> The avidyne does indeed support adsb+ >> >> I can assist with writing the AMOC. It will literally take 5-10 minutes t o create the doc to send to the FAA >> >> Email me if you want to go down that path. >> >> Get Outlook for iOS >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matron ics.com> on behalf of Ralph E. Capen >> Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 9:31:07 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console >> >> >> Rob, >> >> The three AMOCS that have been approved are all for Garmin products. >> That having been said, the most recent responses from the FAA indicate th at they may be open to approving other data sources that output the "ADS-B O UT+" protocol as it contains the necessary data elements required for positi on reporting. In my updated AMOC, they specifically reference the ADS-B OUT + protocol. If the Avidyne outputs it, you should be able to get approval.. . >> >> I would suggest putting the AMOC together like we did - we can provide yo u with what we submitted as a sample if you want... >> >> Ralph >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: Rob Kermanj >> >> Sent: Nov 8, 2017 8:52 AM >> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console >> >> >> >> Does anyone know if AMCO applies to Avidyne ID-540? >> Thanks. >> On Nov 2, 2017, at 9:38 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> If you need 4.1.0 and the manual, let me know. >> I haven=99t been able to locate anyone that has 5.0 yet. >> Get Outlook for iOSFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10 -list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Bill Watson >> Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 11:01:53 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Need latest Navworx UAT Console --> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson >> >> I have the Navworx unit that will work with the AMOC given a certified >> GPS source. But I don't have a copy of the UAT console that will run, >> looking for help. >> >> I tried running the UAT console software I obtained back in 2012 but get >> an error on loading, "Nonshared DATA segment required", then if fails to >> open. Anyone have experience with this? >> >> A secondary concern I have is that I recall the UAT console loads a >> version of the Navworx software. If so, this is backlevel for my box >> (my box had been sent in since then for a maintenance upgrade). >> >> Does anyone have a copy of the UAT console that they can share or >> otherwise advise? Thanks. >> >> (I'll be posting on the VAF board as well) >> >> Bill "wired up G430w to the deadend box with all appendages crossed" Wats on >> >> >> --- >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> https://www.avast.com/antivirus >> >> ========== >> Email Forum - >> -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >> ums.matronics.com >> ========== >> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - >> matronics.com >> ========== >> p; - List Contribution Web Site - >> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> ========== >> Email Forum - >> -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >> ums.matronics.com >> ========== >> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - >> matronics.com >> ========== >> p; - List Contribution Web Site - >> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button...
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-) I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites. If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!! http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator [Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages, when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum. The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 09, 2017
Subject: Re: Cleveland Wheel Bearings
Bill, I'll send some pictures of the bearings I'm replacing. The rollers and cones are pitted. If what you're doing is keeping the bearings in good shape, just keep doing it. It's pretty obvious when they fail. In my experience, once the cup or a roller shows even the tiniest pit/mark/dent/chip, it only takes a few hours of operation to go from "I could probably live with that" to "get that thing off my plane". --Dave On Wed, Nov 8, 2017 at 6:59 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > > Request for background: What kind off experience have people had with > failing/damaged/rusting wheel bearings vis-a-vis maintenance of wheel > bearing? > > I operate off a sometimes wet and mushy field where my wheels get quite a > dousing. Each condition inspection, I've been repacking the bearings. So > far I have seen any signs of rusting - is there something else I should be > looking for? > > Bill "6 years and 900+ hours on same bearings, color me curious" Watson > > On 11/7/2017 7:26 PM, David Saylor wrote: > >> Does anyone have a good source for wheel bearings? I found Timken nose >> bearings for about $40 but the my shopping cart at Vans is running about >> $650 for all 8 pcs for the mains. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be >> this way. But my search for LM274949-2-629 is coming up short. >> >> Has someone had success with an alternate number? Besides the Cleveland >> number? >> >> Thanks, >> >> --Dave >> >> >> > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Wanted: Garmin 496
Date: Nov 10, 2017
My Garmin 496 has died. The simplest solution is for me to simply replace it and avoid having to make other changes to incorporate a different source for GPS data. If anyone has a used unit (in good working order) I'm in the market for it. Don't need any accessories just a 496 with a battery. Albert Gardner RV-10 N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2017
Subject: Re: Wanted: Garmin 496
From: paul <paul(at)controlapproach.com>
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Date: Nov 11, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in
December! Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 11, 2017
Subject: Unservicable bearing cups
Here's a picture of some of the cups I just changed. I change them when they have even just one of the marks on the inner surface. So obviously these are toast. My plane sat in 2016 from April to October. I suspect that may have something to do with these marks. I'll be paying closer attention next year. All the bearings in both MLGs and one side of NLG were replaced. The rollers had corresponding marks. PNs for future reference: MLG Timken LM29749 Cone (the part with the rollers) Timken LM29710 Cup (the part pressed into the wheel) Add "20629" or "2-629" the end of the PN for FAA approved parts NLG Timken LM67000LA Cone Timken LM67010 Cup (as listed on the MATCO drawing) --Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Unservicable bearing cups
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 11, 2017
Thanks for posting the pics and part number recap for the people who want to save this for future reference! Those marks almost have to not be from USAGE wear, but from sitting wear. Notice how they are only on 1/2 of the race...that seems to indicate, in my non-expert opinion, that either that is the side that all the weight was on, or that was the side that had not much weight and therefore had enough of a gap that moisture got in. I would think that these went bad strictly from sitting too long with moisture around. Was this still somewhat near the ocean? I bet if you had flown regularly you wouldn't have seen this. The unevenness of the marks also make me wonder if maybe the bearings were just slightly loose. That's just thinking out loud...not that I'd advise you to do anything different. Anyway, very interesting. If you scotchbrite those marks, do they polish off? I wonder how deep they go. Tim On 11/11/2017 12:21 PM, David Saylor wrote: > Here's a picture of some of the cups I just changed. I change them > when they have even just one of the marks on the inner surface. So > obviously these are toast. > > My plane sat in 2016 from April to October. I suspect that may have > something to do with these marks. I'll be paying closer attention > next year. All the bearings in both MLGs and one side of NLG were > replaced. > > The rollers had corresponding marks. > > PNs for future reference: > > MLG > Timken LM29749 Cone (the part with the rollers) > Timken LM29710 Cup (the part pressed into the wheel) > Add "20629" or "2-629" the end of the PN for FAA approved parts > > NLG > Timken LM67000LA Cone > Timken LM67010 Cup > (as listed on the MATCO drawing) > > > --Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 12, 2017
Subject: Re: Unservicable bearing cups
Ya l think ya got it narrowed down there ;-). It was parked for engine work for spring/summer 2016. It sat in a hangar in San Jose, so probably less salt air than Watsonville but still maybe some. I=99ve heard the rule of thumb is within 30 miles of salt water. But then it=99s lived at WVI since 2007 without any real corrosion anywhere to speak of. The marks aren=99t gonna polish out. They=99re significant. =94Dave On Sat, Nov 11, 2017 at 3:21 PM Tim Olson wrote: > > Thanks for posting the pics and part number recap for the people who want > to > save this for future reference! > > Those marks almost have to not be from USAGE wear, but from sitting wear. > Notice how they are only on 1/2 of the race...that seems to indicate, > in my non-expert opinion, that either that is the side that all the weigh t > was on, or that was the side that had not much weight and therefore > had enough of a gap that moisture got in. > > I would think that these went bad strictly from sitting too long with > moisture around. Was this still somewhat near the ocean? > I bet if you had flown regularly you wouldn't have seen this. > > The unevenness of the marks also make me wonder if maybe the > bearings were just slightly loose. That's just thinking out loud...not > that I'd advise you to do anything different. > > Anyway, very interesting. If you scotchbrite those marks, do they polish > off? I wonder how deep they go. > Tim > > On 11/11/2017 12:21 PM, David Saylor wrote: > > Here's a picture of some of the cups I just changed. I change them > > when they have even just one of the marks on the inner surface. So > > obviously these are toast. > > > > My plane sat in 2016 from April to October. I suspect that may have > > something to do with these marks. I'll be paying closer attention > > next year. All the bearings in both MLGs and one side of NLG were > > replaced. > > > > The rollers had corresponding marks. > > > > PNs for future reference: > > > > MLG > > Timken LM29749 Cone (the part with the rollers) > > Timken LM29710 Cup (the part pressed into the wheel) > > Add "20629" or "2-629" the end of the PN for FAA approved parts > > > > NLG > > Timken LM67000LA Cone > > Timken LM67010 Cup > > (as listed on the MATCO drawing) > > > > > > --Dave > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: CofG Question (Sort of)
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Nov 12, 2017
Hi I have my -10 project on a dolly and am planning to get it up on its wheels in the next couple of weeks. I have the tail cone (but not the feathers) attached and am wondering how tippy it will be if there is no engine attached. Any comments? If I need to add ballast to the nose till I get an engine, is there any preferred way to do this? Cheers Les C-GROK (now officially in fiberglass hell) C-GCWZ flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474863#474863 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Nov 12, 2017
Subject: Re: CofG Question (Sort of)
It=99s not tippy side to side at all. You need to prop the tail up unt il you get the engine on. You would need several hundred pounds on the nose t o hold the tail up in a stable way. I would just put a stand on the tail lik e in he attached picture. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Nov 12, 2017, at 7:27 PM, kearney wrote: > > > Hi > > I have my -10 project on a dolly and am planning to get it up on its wheel s in the next couple of weeks. > > I have the tail cone (but not the feathers) attached and am wondering how t ippy it will be if there is no engine attached. > > Any comments? If I need to add ballast to the nose till I get an engine, i s there any preferred way to do this? > > Cheers > > Les > > C-GROK (now officially in fiberglass hell) > C-GCWZ flying > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474863#474863 > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: CofG Question (Sort of)
Date: Nov 12, 2017
Hey Les, I needed to maneuver the plane w/out wings or tail feathers in and out of the shop during painting and w/out the engine. So I lashed two 5 gal. jugs of water onto the engine mount to counter the tail. It was just enough so that I could push down on the tail to raise the front wheel ... easily steered it from the tail. Used a small prop under the tail tie down so that I could temporarily install the vert and rudder to tape off stripes matching the fuse. Later, - Lew -----Original Message----- From: kearney Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2017 7:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: CofG Question (Sort of) Hi I have my -10 project on a dolly and am planning to get it up on its wheels in the next couple of weeks. I have the tail cone (but not the feathers) attached and am wondering how tippy it will be if there is no engine attached. Any comments? If I need to add ballast to the nose till I get an engine, is there any preferred way to do this? Cheers Les ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: CofG Question (Sort of)
From: Gary Specketer <gspecketer(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2017
It is tail heavy about 15 lbs GARY Specketer > On Nov 12, 2017, at 7:27 PM, kearney wrote: > > > Hi > > I have my -10 project on a dolly and am planning to get it up on its wheels in the next couple of weeks. > > I have the tail cone (but not the feathers) attached and am wondering how tippy it will be if there is no engine attached. > > Any comments? If I need to add ballast to the nose till I get an engine, is there any preferred way to do this? > > Cheers > > Les > > C-GROK (now officially in fiberglass hell) > C-GCWZ flying > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474863#474863 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser...
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't want. Yahoo, Google and that ilk are not "free". The user must constantly endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb to that. That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning, maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory. Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine. However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way. Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these Lists? http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: CofG Question (Sort of)
From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Nov 13, 2017
Guys Thanks for the info. I'll likely install bump bar in tail but use the water in pail trick as well. Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474945#474945 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: CofG Question (Sort of)
Date: Nov 13, 2017
Well, if it isn't one thing it's another. Last week my Garmin 496 GPS died, this week it's my HID landing lights. So I'm going to replace them with LEDs. Vans sells a Sunspot LED wing tip kit for the RV10/14 kits. From the picture I can't tell if they are a exact replacement for the original RV-10 wing tip landing light or not. Vans picture doesn't show the position lights that the original installation has in the wing tip. Maybe there is a better LED light available. Wouldn't mind installing them inboard from the tips for better center line coverage. I've considered an additional light under the prop for center line coverage. Tried mounting one on the front wheel pant but too much vibration for a filament type lamp. LED should be ok with vibration though. Any landing light suggestions? Albert Gardner RV-10 N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: CofG Question (Sort of)
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2017
I can't comment on most of the things in the email, but I can tell you that a bit over a year ago I bought a set of HID's on ebay, brand new, and the pair of them with ballasts was about $110. So, if you do end up wanting to replace your HID with another HID, the cost is probably much less than your original purchase. I think I paid $400 each back in 2005, and now they're more like $110/pr if you find them right. I'm assuming your HID is mounted in a wing cutout. You should be able to find an LED that will fit into that spot too, but you'll spend a bunch more...but you can get a real good light too. Tim On 11/13/2017 12:45 PM, Albert wrote: > > Well, if it isn't one thing it's another. Last week my Garmin 496 GPS died, > this week it's my HID landing lights. So I'm going to replace them with > LEDs. Vans sells a Sunspot LED wing tip kit for the RV10/14 kits. From the > picture I can't tell if they are a exact replacement for the original RV-10 > wing tip landing light or not. Vans picture doesn't show the position lights > that the original installation has in the wing tip. Maybe there is a better > LED light available. Wouldn't mind installing them inboard from the tips for > better center line coverage. I've considered an additional light under the > prop for center line coverage. Tried mounting one on the front wheel pant > but too much vibration for a filament type lamp. LED should be ok with > vibration though. Any landing light suggestions? > Albert Gardner > RV-10 N991RV > Yuma, AZ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2017
Subject: Re: CofG Question (Sort of)
Just leave the pail of water outside overnight and you will have a solid weight. ;-( -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 9:28 AM, kearney wrote: > > Guys > > Thanks for the info. I'll likely install bump bar in tail but use the > water in pail trick as well. > > Cheers > > Les > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474945#474945 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dlm <dlm34077(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2017
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 11/13/17
Try Grainger if the HID situation involves a bulb only. I had a bulb go bad but ballast worked fine; a GE HID bulb with the old ballast works with the old holder. The LED stuff I found required a complete rework of the LL fixture and tip area. N46007 On Tue, Nov 14, 2017 at 1:05 AM, RV10-List Digest Server < rv10-list(at)matronics.com> wrote: > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style > 82701&View=html&Chapter 17-11-13&Archive=RV10 > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style > 82701&View=txt&Chapter 17-11-13&Archive=RV10 > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV10-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon 11/13/17: 6 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 0. 08:17 AM - [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... (Matt > Dralle) > 1. 06:27 AM - Re: CofG Question (Sort of) (Gary Specketer) > 2. 08:29 AM - Re: CofG Question (Sort of) (kearney) > 3. 10:47 AM - Re: Re: CofG Question (Sort of) (Albert) > 4. 11:07 AM - Re: Re: CofG Question (Sort of) (Tim Olson) > 5. 12:26 PM - Re: Re: CofG Question (Sort of) (Kelly McMullen) > > > ________________________________ Message 0 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RV10-List: [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... > > > Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free > from > advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to > tap > into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, > but have > always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a > user > is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they > don't > want. Yahoo, Google and that ilk are not "free". The user must constantly > endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever > increasing > rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb > to that. > > That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a > lot > of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air > conditioning, > maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund > raiser > each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short > email > every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support > the > operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and > non-compulsory. > Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine. > > However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a > contribution > and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's > it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining > the > Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single > advertisement > or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum > that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way. > > Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support > these > Lists? > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: > > Matt Dralle / Matronics > 581 Jeannie Way > Livermore CA 94550 > USA > > Thank you for your support! > > Matt Dralle > Email List Admin. > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: CofG Question (Sort of) > From: Gary Specketer <gspecketer(at)gmail.com> > > > It is tail heavy about 15 lbs > > GARY Specketer > > > On Nov 12, 2017, at 7:27 PM, kearney wrote: > > > > > > Hi > > > > I have my -10 project on a dolly and am planning to get it up on its > wheels in > the next couple of weeks. > > > > I have the tail cone (but not the feathers) attached and am wondering > how tippy > it will be if there is no engine attached. > > > > Any comments? If I need to add ballast to the nose till I get an engine, > is there > any preferred way to do this? > > > > Cheers > > > > Les > > > > C-GROK (now officially in fiberglass hell) > > C-GCWZ flying > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474863#474863 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > Subject: RV10-List: Re: CofG Question (Sort of) > From: "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> > > > Guys > > Thanks for the info. I'll likely install bump bar in tail but use the > water in > pail trick as well. > > Cheers > > Les > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474945#474945 > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: CofG Question (Sort of) > > > Well, if it isn't one thing it's another. Last week my Garmin 496 GPS died, > this week it's my HID landing lights. So I'm going to replace them with > LEDs. Vans sells a Sunspot LED wing tip kit for the RV10/14 kits. From the > picture I can't tell if they are a exact replacement for the original RV-10 > wing tip landing light or not. Vans picture doesn't show the position > lights > that the original installation has in the wing tip. Maybe there is a better > LED light available. Wouldn't mind installing them inboard from the tips > for > better center line coverage. I've considered an additional light under the > prop for center line coverage. Tried mounting one on the front wheel pant > but too much vibration for a filament type lamp. LED should be ok with > vibration though. Any landing light suggestions? > Albert Gardner > RV-10 N991RV > Yuma, AZ > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: CofG Question (Sort of) > From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > > > I can't comment on most of the things in the email, but > I can tell you that a bit over a year ago I bought a set > of HID's on ebay, brand new, and the pair of them with > ballasts was about $110. So, if you do end up wanting > to replace your HID with another HID, the cost is > probably much less than your original purchase. I think > I paid $400 each back in 2005, and now they're more like > $110/pr if you find them right. > I'm assuming your HID is mounted in a wing cutout. > > You should be able to find an LED that will fit into > that spot too, but you'll spend a bunch more...but you > can get a real good light too. > > Tim > > > On 11/13/2017 12:45 PM, Albert wrote: > > > > Well, if it isn't one thing it's another. Last week my Garmin 496 GPS > died, > > this week it's my HID landing lights. So I'm going to replace them with > > LEDs. Vans sells a Sunspot LED wing tip kit for the RV10/14 kits. From > the > > picture I can't tell if they are a exact replacement for the original > RV-10 > > wing tip landing light or not. Vans picture doesn't show the position > lights > > that the original installation has in the wing tip. Maybe there is a > better > > LED light available. Wouldn't mind installing them inboard from the tips > for > > better center line coverage. I've considered an additional light under > the > > prop for center line coverage. Tried mounting one on the front wheel pant > > but too much vibration for a filament type lamp. LED should be ok with > > vibration though. Any landing light suggestions? > > Albert Gardner > > RV-10 N991RV > > Yuma, AZ > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: CofG Question (Sort of) > > Just leave the pail of water outside overnight and you will have a solid > weight. ;-( > > -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm > > On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 9:28 AM, kearney wrote: > > > > > Guys > > > > Thanks for the info. I'll likely install bump bar in tail but use the > > water in pail trick as well. > > > > Cheers > > > > Les > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474945#474945 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: B&C Starter with Plane Power alternator - need bracket
From: "tshort" <tmshort(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2017
Anyone know if there is an off the shelf bracket that fits between the B&C lightweight starter and the 60A PP alternator? I'm installing the B&C starter during the upgrade to the panel, and the original steel bracket is nowhere close to fitting. Thanks in advance Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474969#474969 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Date: Nov 15, 2017
Subject: Re: Prop / Throttle / Mixture Quadrant
Hi Les I prefer a quadrant as you can have simultaneous access to all the controls easier without having to take your hand off one control to the next as in a vernier setup. I have my quadrant on the panel with the Aerosport interior as that was the only option at the time. I would prefer the controls to be on the tunnel in the center console just like in the Cirrus, as that is a more natural position for your hand and also gives you more real estate on the panel for other purposes. Warm regards Patrick > On 6 Nov 2017, at 08:51, kearney wrote: > > > Hi > > I am close to making a decision on whether or not to use vernier control knobs or quadrant controls for Prop / Throttle / Mixture. With the Aerosport interior, I can put the quadrant on the panel or on the center console. > > For those who have already made this decision, I'd be interested in opinions etc. > > Cheers > > Les > > C-GROK (some assembly required) > C-GCWZ (Flying) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474445#474445 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C Starter with Plane Power alternator - need bracket
From: "bob88" <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Nov 14, 2017
I had the same problem. Neither of the links B&C provides will work. I ended up bending the Plane Power link (only slightly) and drilling a new 5/16 hole effectively shortening the link. I inserted the long bolt from behind with some wet torque seal on the end to mark the place to drill the new hole. Hope this helps. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474971#474971 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2017
Subject: Re: B&C Starter with Plane Power alternator - need bracket
I had to fabricate a new bracket from 4130 to fit my B&C/ Plane Power alternator. Very simple wrt my installation. Rick #40956 C-GDMH Sent from my iPad > On Nov 14, 2017, at 2:02 PM, tshort wrote: > > > Anyone know if there is an off the shelf bracket that fits between the B&C lightweight starter and the 60A PP alternator? > > I'm installing the B&C starter during the upgrade to the panel, and the original steel bracket is nowhere close to fitting. > > Thanks in advance > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=474969#474969 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Reminder
Dear Listers, A quick reminder that November is the annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are covered solely through your Contributions during this time of the year. *Your* personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free. Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running for another great year! Use a credit card or your PayPal account here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by sending a personal check to: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 16, 2017
Subject: Re: Unservicable bearing cups
Dave, Do you recall which grease you were using while the airplane set? Just curi ous as I=99m getting ready to repack (hopefully not replace!) my beari ngs. I=99ve got Aeroshell 5 in them now. The supplied wheels and bearings f rom Cleveland had Mobil SHC 100 installed in them from the factory. I=99m wanting to look at the corrosion inhibitors in each available gr ease going forward. Thanks, Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 11, 2017, at 6:40 PM, David Saylor wrote: > > Ya l think ya got it narrowed down there ;-). > > It was parked for engine work for spring/summer 2016. It sat in a hangar i n San Jose, so probably less salt air than Watsonville but still maybe some. I=99ve heard the rule of thumb is within 30 miles of salt water. But then it=99s lived at WVI since 2007 without any real corrosion anywhe re to speak of. > > The marks aren=99t gonna polish out. They=99re significant. > > =94Dave > >> On Sat, Nov 11, 2017 at 3:21 PM Tim Olson wrote: >> >> Thanks for posting the pics and part number recap for the people who want to >> save this for future reference! >> >> Those marks almost have to not be from USAGE wear, but from sitting wear. >> Notice how they are only on 1/2 of the race...that seems to indicate, >> in my non-expert opinion, that either that is the side that all the weigh t >> was on, or that was the side that had not much weight and therefore >> had enough of a gap that moisture got in. >> >> I would think that these went bad strictly from sitting too long with >> moisture around. Was this still somewhat near the ocean? >> I bet if you had flown regularly you wouldn't have seen this. >> >> The unevenness of the marks also make me wonder if maybe the >> bearings were just slightly loose. That's just thinking out loud...not >> that I'd advise you to do anything different. >> >> Anyway, very interesting. If you scotchbrite those marks, do they polish >> off? I wonder how deep they go. >> Tim >> >> On 11/11/2017 12:21 PM, David Saylor wrote: >> > Here's a picture of some of the cups I just changed. I change them >> > when they have even just one of the marks on the inner surface. So >> > obviously these are toast. >> > >> > My plane sat in 2016 from April to October. I suspect that may have >> > something to do with these marks. I'll be paying closer attention >> > next year. All the bearings in both MLGs and one side of NLG were >> > replaced. >> > >> > The rollers had corresponding marks. >> > >> > PNs for future reference: >> > >> > MLG >> > Timken LM29749 Cone (the part with the rollers) >> > Timken LM29710 Cup (the part pressed into the wheel) >> > Add "20629" or "2-629" the end of the PN for FAA approved parts >> > >> > NLG >> > Timken LM67000LA Cone >> > Timken LM67010 Cup >> > (as listed on the MATCO drawing) >> > >> > >> > --Dave >> >> >> ========== >> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> WIKI - >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio n >> ========== >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 16, 2017
Subject: Re: Unservicable bearing cups
I had Shell 5 in the mains and SHC100 in the nose. The nose failed one of the two. All the mains failed. --Dave On Thu, Nov 16, 2017 at 10:38 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: > Dave, > > Do you recall which grease you were using while the airplane set? Just > curious as I=99m getting ready to repack (hopefully not replace!) m y bearings. > > I=99ve got Aeroshell 5 in them now. The supplied wheels and bearin gs from > Cleveland had Mobil SHC 100 installed in them from the factory. > > I=99m wanting to look at the corrosion inhibitors in each available grease > going forward. > > Thanks, > Phil > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 11, 2017, at 6:40 PM, David Saylor wrote: > > Ya l think ya got it narrowed down there ;-). > > It was parked for engine work for spring/summer 2016. It sat in a hangar > in San Jose, so probably less salt air than Watsonville but still maybe > some. I=99ve heard the rule of thumb is within 30 miles of salt wa ter. But > then it=99s lived at WVI since 2007 without any real corrosion anyw here to > speak of. > > The marks aren=99t gonna polish out. They=99re significant. > > =94Dave > > On Sat, Nov 11, 2017 at 3:21 PM Tim Olson wrote: > >> >> Thanks for posting the pics and part number recap for the people who wan t >> to >> save this for future reference! >> >> Those marks almost have to not be from USAGE wear, but from sitting wear . >> Notice how they are only on 1/2 of the race...that seems to indicate, >> in my non-expert opinion, that either that is the side that all the weig ht >> was on, or that was the side that had not much weight and therefore >> had enough of a gap that moisture got in. >> >> I would think that these went bad strictly from sitting too long with >> moisture around. Was this still somewhat near the ocean? >> I bet if you had flown regularly you wouldn't have seen this. >> >> The unevenness of the marks also make me wonder if maybe the >> bearings were just slightly loose. That's just thinking out loud...not >> that I'd advise you to do anything different. >> >> Anyway, very interesting. If you scotchbrite those marks, do they polis h >> off? I wonder how deep they go. >> Tim >> >> On 11/11/2017 12:21 PM, David Saylor wrote: >> > Here's a picture of some of the cups I just changed. I change them >> > when they have even just one of the marks on the inner surface. So >> > obviously these are toast. >> > >> > My plane sat in 2016 from April to October. I suspect that may have >> > something to do with these marks. I'll be paying closer attention >> > next year. All the bearings in both MLGs and one side of NLG were >> > replaced. >> > >> > The rollers had corresponding marks. >> > >> > PNs for future reference: >> > >> > MLG >> > Timken LM29749 Cone (the part with the rollers) >> > Timken LM29710 Cup (the part pressed into the wheel) >> > Add "20629" or "2-629" the end of the PN for FAA approved parts >> > >> > NLG >> > Timken LM67000LA Cone >> > Timken LM67010 Cup >> > (as listed on the MATCO drawing) >> > >> > >> > --Dave >> >> >> ========== >> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www. >> matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> WIKI - >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi on >> ========== >> >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's Your Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers, You might have wondered at some point, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine, List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for the over 23 years of on-line archive data always available for instant search and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power these List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki. But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables all these aspects of Matronics List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the best investments you can make in your Sport! List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2017
From: "Kent Ogden" <ogdenk(at)upstate.edu>
Subject: Re: Grounding question
I just wanted to get back to say thanks to all for their input on this issue. I've pondered this a bit and I'm going to do what Bob did and run a #8 wire for the ground to the panel, and let the airframe be the starter return path. This seems like a nice compromise between saving a little weight and having a good reliable ground for the avionics. Kent >>> Tcwtech 10/19/2017 12:46 PM >>> I used the same Akzo Noble primer on my RV-10, all skins are primed including both sides of all lap joints. ( This primer is amazing stuff, does stink like all heck, but really tough and protective. Weve used this on the eight airplanes we have built now over more than 20 years now, and can say it has held up extremely well.) I did not run a separate #2 wire up to the front. All ground current for the starter, alternator and engine sensors flows back through the airframe. I do have a #8 ground wire running from the battery to a ground bus up under the instrument panel solely for the avionics. I have absolutely no electrical issues or noise problems in this airplane. Bob Newman TCW Technologies, LLC 610-928-3420 > On Oct 19, 2017, at 11:58 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > > +1. I ran an independent #2 ground. > > That said, with the number of rivets in the airframe I'm sure you'll be fine as long as you ground to something with a lot of rivets in it. > I just wanted as low a resistance path to my forest of tabs as > possible. > > Tim > > >> On 10/19/2017 10:42 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: >> Ditto >> Sent from my iPhone >>> On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Shannon Hicks > wrote: >>> I used a forest of tabs mounted to my firewall with a #2 (I think) cable run from there all the way back to the battery ground in the tailcone. I'm not sure if it was overkill, but I have had zero issues so far. >>> >>> I think the plans ground path is through the skin to the battery tray where you ground the battery. >>> >>> http://www.bandc.aero/grounding-supplies-battery-cables.aspx >>> >>> Shannon >>> >>> On Thu, Oct 19, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Kent Ogden > wrote: >>> >>> All, >>> >>> I have a question/concern regarding a ground return to the >>> battery. I have primed all my parts and skins with the Akzo Nobel >>> 2 part primer, which is awesome stuff though it's a smelly pain to >>> work with. All skin overlaps have been primed on both sides of >>> the overlap, and this stuff is not conductive at all so the only >>> electrical path is through the rivets and the small area of the >>> rivet hole that doesn't always have primer covering it. On the >>> outside of the plane the rivet heads have contact directly with >>> the unprimed skin so it's really the inside skin where there is >>> minimal area in electrical contact. >>> >>> I am concerned that using the skin as a ground return to the >>> battery may not provide an excellent ground path, especially for >>> the large currents needed for engine cranking. I would really >>> rather not have to run another heavy wire to the front of the >>> airplane for ground, but I will if necessary. >>> >>> Has anyone else faced this issue and had a problem (or no problem) >>> using the skin as a ground return? Also, where/how have people >>> connected the battery ground to the tailcone skin, do you use a >>> piece of brass or copper buss bar riveted to the bottom skin or >>> something like that? >>> >>> Thanks for any suggestions! >>> >>> Kent Ogden >>> #40710 ultra slow-build :) >>> >>> >>> > > List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Intersection Fairings and Oil Cooler Valve
From: "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 17, 2017
Just finished my first condition inspection and want to do finish some items while plane open and though I might get some input.... 1. I still have yet to install upper main leg intersection fairings - for attachment to fuse bottom do you all you use the self tapping screws as in plans, rivnuts, or another clever solution? 2. I am installing an oil cooler valve - how did you all attached to oil mount? (clamps, screws, etc?) Thanks Matt Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475187#475187 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 17, 2017
Subject: Re: Intersection Fairings and Oil Cooler Valve
1) Self tapping screws. Will probably change to nut plates at some point if they strip out or begin working out with vibration. 2) Mine is mounted on top of the oil cooler plenum. Then the scat tube attached to it. The butterfly valve is secured with LP4-3s. It does need to be secured otherwise the push cable rotates the valve around instead of operating the valve. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 17, 2017, at 7:36 PM, mhealydds wrote: > > > Just finished my first condition inspection and want to do finish some items while plane open and though I might get some input.... > > 1. I still have yet to install upper main leg intersection fairings - for attachment to fuse bottom do you all you use the self tapping screws as in plans, rivnuts, or another clever solution? > > 2. I am installing an oil cooler valve - how did you all attached to oil mount? (clamps, screws, etc?) > > Thanks > Matt > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475187#475187 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Landing Lights
Date: Nov 18, 2017
What is the choice for landing/taxi lights in 10's these days? Has anyone installed Van's or others LED lamps? I had some HID lights but they were running hot and have failed so I need to try something else. The HID's I had in there were the MR16 configuration since they would fit in place of Van's original wingtip lights. I replaced Van's lights with the HID and they were really bright I think just too hot for long life. Also having trouble finding the lamp I need. There is an RV-12 here that has the LED cluster in the wing that seems OK. But I'm reluctant to cut open the wing.... I found some LED lights down at Lowes in the MR16 package and they will fit right in but they are not very bright. 50W and 700 Lumens is the brightest I could find. Looking for more light. Albert Gardner RV-10 N9914RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruce Breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Landing Lights
I pulled out all the HID brackets and put in a new homemade bracket for the Baja Designs Squadron PRO LED fixture. It used the same mounting holes as the previous bracket. VERY bright. Over 4000 lumens. Of course, I'm still in construction mode, so all I know is that it really lit up the hangar! A bit less weight as well. Bruce Breckenridge Wings... On Sat, Nov 18, 2017 at 8:24 PM, Albert wrote: > > What is the choice for landing/taxi lights in 10's these days? Has anyone > installed Van's or others LED lamps? I had some HID lights but they were > running hot and have failed so I need to try something else. The HID's I > had in there were the MR16 configuration since they would fit in place of > Van's original wingtip lights. I replaced Van's lights with the HID and > they were really bright I think just too hot for long life. Also having > trouble finding the lamp I need. There is an RV-12 here that has the LED > cluster in the wing that seems OK. But I'm reluctant to cut open the > wing.... > > I found some LED lights down at Lowes in the MR16 package and they will > fit right in but they are not very bright. 50W and 700 Lumens is the > brightest I could find. Looking for more light. > > Albert Gardner > RV-10 N9914RV > Yuma, AZ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Subject: Re: Landing Lights
Date: Nov 19, 2017
If you want insanely bright lights you can get a Duckworks kit and the Baja XL80 light. 9,500 lumens each. Its more expensive, slightly heavier than an HID setup, draws almost 6 amps, but its so awesome! The HID looks like a candle next to it. :) Lenny > On Sat, Nov 18, 2017 at 8:24 PM, Albert wrote: > > What is the choice for landing/taxi lights in 10's these days? Has anyone installed Van's or others LED lamps? I had some HID lights but they were running hot and have failed so I need to try something else. The HID's I had in there were the MR16 configuration since they would fit in place of Van's original wingtip lights. I replaced Van's lights with the HID and they were really bright I think just too hot for long life. Also having trouble finding the lamp I need. There is an RV-12 here that has the LED cluster in the wing that seems OK. But I'm reluctant to cut open the wing.... > > I found some LED lights down at Lowes in the MR16 package and they will fit right in but they are not very bright. 50W and 700 Lumens is the brightest I could find. Looking for more light. > > Albert Gardner > RV-10 N9914RV > Yuma, AZ > > > > > =================================== > -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > =================================== > FORUMS - > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > =================================== > WIKI - > errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com > =================================== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > =================================== > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2017
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Nov 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Intersection Fairings and Oil Cooler Valve
See below. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse(at)saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Nov 17, 2017, at 8:36 PM, mhealydds wrote: > > > Just finished my first condition inspection and want to do finish some items while plane open and though I might get some input.... > > 1. I still have yet to install upper main leg intersection fairings - for attachment to fuse bottom do you all you use the self tapping screws as in plans, rivnuts, or another clever solution? It varies. Pointy screws work fine. > > 2. I am installing an oil cooler valve - how did you all attached to oil mount? (clamps, screws, etc?)Pop rivets. > > Thanks > Matt > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475187#475187 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Orre" <s51flyer(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
Date: Nov 19, 2017
Has anyone primed the inside of their elevator pushrod per Van's recommendation? If so, any quick and easy methods anyone's discovered? I actually can't imagine why this is a recommendation unless you live in a salt water climate. Thanks in advance.. Bob O. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
I did. Using a string I pulled some pads back and forth through to scuff, did the same with some rags to clean, then soaked a rag with primer and pulled it through a couple of times. On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 8:49 PM, Bob Orre wrote: > Has anyone primed the inside of their elevator pushrod per Van=99s > recommendation? If so, any quick and easy methods anyone=99s disco vered? I > actually can=99t imagine why this is a recommendation unless you li ve in a > salt water climate. > > > Thanks in advance.. > > > Bob O. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 19, 2017
Subject: Re: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
I primed mine per the instructions. I don't think it's so much "salt water climate" as much as that no one is ever gonna look in there ever again. And if it somehow did fail, it would be really bad. So it should be as reliable as possible. --Dave On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 5:49 PM, Bob Orre wrote: > Has anyone primed the inside of their elevator pushrod per Van=99s > recommendation? If so, any quick and easy methods anyone=99s disco vered? I > actually can=99t imagine why this is a recommendation unless you li ve in a > salt water climate. > > > Thanks in advance.. > > > Bob O. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Nov 19, 2017
Keep in mind that the parts for the pushrod are not Alclad, and thus do not have the corrosion resistance of the exterior skins. I wouldn't be surprised if the tube and end caps are different Al alloys. Van's limits primer recommendations to a very small portion of the kit, to just those parts that have some risk of corrosion in damp air. On 11/19/2017 9:16 PM, David Saylor wrote: > I primed mine per the instructions. I don't think it's so much "salt > water climate" as much as that no one is ever gonna look in there ever > again. And if it somehow did fail, it would be really bad. So it > should be as reliable as possible. > > --Dave > > On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 5:49 PM, Bob Orre > wrote: > > Has anyone primed the inside of their elevator pushrod per Vans > recommendation? If so, any quick and easy methods anyones > discovered? I actually cant imagine why this is a recommendation > unless you live in a salt water climate.____ > > __ __ > > Thanks in advance..____ > > __ __ > > Bob O.____ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Nov 19, 2017
Dave Saylor wrote: > I primed mine per the instructions. I don't think it's so much "salt water climate" as much as that no one is ever gonna look in there ever again. And if it somehow did fail, it would be really bad. So it should be as reliable as possible. > > --Dave > u] +1 Same here. After primer had cured, just before inserting rod ends, I also sprayed LPS-2 in there, just for added measure. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475300#475300 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2017
Subject: Re: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
Yep. Capped off one end and filled the tube with acid etch. Dumped it. R insed it. Allowed to dry. Then recalled it. mixed about a cup of primer, poured it in, and rolled the t ube around. Looking inside with a flashlight, you can see where primer is and isn=99 t. Kept moving it around until it was all coated. Pretty easy and nothing to fret. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 19, 2017, at 7:49 PM, Bob Orre wrote: > > Has anyone primed the inside of their elevator pushrod per Van=99s r ecommendation? If so, any quick and easy methods anyone=99s discovere d? I actually can=99t imagine why this is a recommendation unless you live in a salt water climate. > > Thanks in advance.. > > Bob O. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2017
I would argue against using acid etch/alodine in any area that you can't access afterwards. I think the risk of not fully removing the acid exceeds any risk of poor bonding of the paint. The area will never be subject to any abrasion or scratching that tests paint adhesion. The primer itself contains sacrificial material to react with any oxidizing moisture. Of course I don't base in a corrosive atmosphere of coastal areas, so I'm certainly biased. If we aren't careful, we could re-ignite primer wars. ;-)) On 11/20/2017 5:33 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: > Yep. Capped off one end and filled the tube with acid etch. Dumped > it. Rinsed it. Allowed to dry. > > Then recalled it. mixed about a cup of primer, poured it in, and rolled > the tube around. > > Looking inside with a flashlight, you can see where primer is and isnt. > Kept moving it around until it was all coated. > > Pretty easy and nothing to fret. > > Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door lock for cabin doors
From: "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2017
Any suggestions for doors with Sid handle. Id like to install locks on both doors. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475304#475304 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2017
Subject: Re: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
Fair enough. I just flushed it and flushed it and flushed it. Thinking about it more, I even alodined the thing too. I had a couple of 6-8 ft sections of PVC pipe. One end was opened up, the other had a fitting where I mounted a hose bibb. I could fill one pvc tube with acid etch. The other with alodine. Then I'd drop the long pieces inside the pvc tube. When done, I'd open the hose bibb and recapture each solution back in it's original container. Worked pretty well and I think they're still out in my garage. On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote : > > I would argue against using acid etch/alodine in any area that you can't > access afterwards. I think the risk of not fully removing the acid exceed s > any risk of poor bonding of the paint. The area will never be subject to > any abrasion or scratching that tests paint adhesion. > The primer itself contains sacrificial material to react with any > oxidizing moisture. Of course I don't base in a corrosive atmosphere of > coastal areas, so I'm certainly biased. If we aren't careful, we could > re-ignite primer wars. ;-)) > > On 11/20/2017 5:33 AM, Phillip Perry wrote: > >> Yep. Capped off one end and filled the tube with acid etch. Dumped >> it. Rinsed it. Allowed to dry. >> >> Then recalled it. mixed about a cup of primer, poured it in, and rolled >> the tube around. >> >> Looking inside with a flashlight, you can see where primer is and isn =99t. >> Kept moving it around until it was all coated. >> >> Pretty easy and nothing to fret. >> >> Phil >> > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2017
Subject: Re: Door lock for cabin doors
It's messages like this that make me remember-that-I-forgot... to install any type of locking mechanism when assembling the doors. Standard factory latch and handles with the Plane-Around aftermarket safety latch kit. I don't think I want to run a bike cable lock under the belly around both handles. Wondering: do I even care about locking the plane (easy enough to break into even if locked, and they'd damage less if the doors simply opened...), and if I do care, are there options installable from the outside - which it the only side not yet finished and painted. On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 8:42 AM, whodja wrote: > > Any suggestions for doors with Sid handle. I=99d like to install lo cks on > both doors. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475304#475304 > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2017
Subject: Re: Door lock for cabin doors
Bill, your point about damage is what I thought too. The stuff inside is ex pensive but insured. Damage to the plane could ground me for a long time and I=99m not in the mood to rebuild doors and windows. To me, locks wil l only serve to cause more damage if someone really wants your avionics, and only will stop the casual small time thief. I installed a car alarm in the door pin circuit. My doors are never locked b ut if I arm the alarm with the key fob I get the =9Cchirp chirp=9D and if someone opens the doors they get a loud wailing horn. That should b e plenty to drive away the casual thief, and maybe even the guy who really w ants my avionics. In fact, if someone can break into your locked or unlocke d plane in silence, I think you=99re more at risk than any other situa tion. But at least I don=99t HAVE to have damage done to the plane just beca use someone attempted the theft. Easy and cheap, too. Tim > On Nov 20, 2017, at 10:21 AM, Bill Boyd wrote: > > It's messages like this that make me remember-that-I-forgot... to install a ny type of locking mechanism when assembling the doors. Standard factory la tch and handles with the Plane-Around aftermarket safety latch kit. > > I don't think I want to run a bike cable lock under the belly around both h andles. Wondering: do I even care about locking the plane (easy enough to b reak into even if locked, and they'd damage less if the doors simply opened. ..), and if I do care, are there options installable from the outside - whic h it the only side not yet finished and painted. > >> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 8:42 AM, whodja wrote: >> >> Any suggestions for doors with Sid handle. I=99d like to install lo cks on both doors. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475304#475304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ========================= >> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List >> ========================= >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========================= >> WIKI - >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> ========================= >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio n >> ========================= >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2017
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door lock for cabin doors
Very simple solution for at least one of the doors.... both, if in a pinch and you want to crawl thru the baggage door.=C2- I made the part out a te flon type material, but could be made out of anything.=C2- You just inser t the small end into the slot on the inside of the handle, and then slide i t so that it keeps the door release from moving.=C2- See pics. Don McDonald1,000 hours and still strong as ever! From: whodja <whodja @gmail.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 8:15 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door lock for cabin doors Any suggestions for doors with Sid handle. I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2d like to install locks on both doors. 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October 14, 2017 - Present

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-mt