RV10-Archive.digest.vol-na
November 20, 2017 - December 24, 2017
I agree with Tim. I installed key locks on my doors, but never locked them. Id
rather have them steal something than break my door.
I do get separation anxiety sometimes, worrying about the plane when its sitting
alone at some airports tie-down, so I've have been playing with the idea of
a 4G/LTE connected security camera. Have the hardware figured out and I just need
to make it all work. That should be better than any door lock.
Lenny
> On Nov 20, 2017, at 12:26 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Bill, your point about damage is what I thought too. The stuff inside is expensive
but insured. Damage to the plane could ground me for a long time and Im
not in the mood to rebuild doors and windows. To me, locks will only serve to
cause more damage if someone really wants your avionics, and only will stop
the casual small time thief.
>
> I installed a car alarm in the door pin circuit. My doors are never locked but
if I arm the alarm with the key fob I get the chirp chirp and if someone opens
the doors they get a loud wailing horn. That should be plenty to drive away
the casual thief, and maybe even the guy who really wants my avionics. In
fact, if someone can break into your locked or unlocked plane in silence, I think
youre more at risk than any other situation.
> But at least I dont HAVE to have damage done to the plane just because someone
attempted the theft.
> Easy and cheap, too.
> Tim
>
> On Nov 20, 2017, at 10:21 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
>
>> It's messages like this that make me remember-that-I-forgot... to install any
type of locking mechanism when assembling the doors. Standard factory latch
and handles with the Plane-Around aftermarket safety latch kit.
>>
>> I don't think I want to run a bike cable lock under the belly around both handles.
Wondering: do I even care about locking the plane (easy enough to break
into even if locked, and they'd damage less if the doors simply opened...),
and if I do care, are there options installable from the outside - which it the
only side not yet finished and painted.
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 8:42 AM, whodja wrote:
>>
>> Any suggestions for doors with Sid handle. Id like to install locks on both
doors.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475304#475304
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door lock for cabin doors |
Tim, I bet such alarms are dime-a-dozen nowadays, but do you recall the
type/brand you had success with? This sounds like the way I'd prefer to
go, and I'm at the point in my build where this would be on my
soon-and-coming list.
Thanks!
On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 12:26 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> Bill, your point about damage is what I thought too. The stuff inside is
> expensive but insured. Damage to the plane could ground me for a long tim
e
> and I=99m not in the mood to rebuild doors and windows. To me, loc
ks will
> only serve to cause more damage if someone really wants your avionics, an
d
> only will stop the casual small time thief.
>
> I installed a car alarm in the door pin circuit. My doors are never
> locked but if I arm the alarm with the key fob I get the =9Cchirp c
hirp=9D and
> if someone opens the doors they get a loud wailing horn. That should be
> plenty to drive away the casual thief, and maybe even the guy who really
> wants my avionics. In fact, if someone can break into your locked or
> unlocked plane in silence, I think you=99re more at risk than any o
ther
> situation.
> But at least I don=99t HAVE to have damage done to the plane just b
ecause
> someone attempted the theft.
> Easy and cheap, too.
> Tim
>
> On Nov 20, 2017, at 10:21 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
>
> It's messages like this that make me remember-that-I-forgot... to install
> any type of locking mechanism when assembling the doors. Standard factor
y
> latch and handles with the Plane-Around aftermarket safety latch kit.
>
> I don't think I want to run a bike cable lock under the belly around both
> handles. Wondering: do I even care about locking the plane (easy enough
to
> break into even if locked, and they'd damage less if the doors simply
> opened...), and if I do care, are there options installable from the
> outside - which it the only side not yet finished and painted.
>
> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 8:42 AM, whodja wrote:
>
>>
>> Any suggestions for doors with Sid handle. I=99d like to install l
ocks on
>> both doors.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475304#475304
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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===========
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on
>> ========================
===========
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>>
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>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door lock for cabin doors |
Bill,
You should see my last email that I sent before I read yours...that has the
model. As I mentioned, I tied it in with the door pin switches, so it
works as part of my door latch system. I have a special switch that turns
on power to the alarm. I won't say where. :) So when I get out I just
flip that switch, then close the doors within so many seconds, and then
after they're closed I click the remote button and hear the chirps. It's a
really loud piezo alarm that I used. I think it was about a 1.5" puck
maybe .5" thick, but it's been a LONG time since I looked at it, and it's
hidden way up on the forward side of the subpanel, so it's hard to get to.
When it goes off, it's really loud in the plane. I think if I were a
thief, I'd have a hard time working on pulling the radios with it that
loud. At least they'll hurt a lot if they get away with a radio.
Tim
On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 3:35 PM, Bill Boyd wrote:
> Tim, I bet such alarms are dime-a-dozen nowadays, but do you recall the
> type/brand you had success with? This sounds like the way I'd prefer to
> go, and I'm at the point in my build where this would be on my
> soon-and-coming list.
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 12:26 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> Bill, your point about damage is what I thought too. The stuff inside i
s
>> expensive but insured. Damage to the plane could ground me for a long ti
me
>> and I=99m not in the mood to rebuild doors and windows. To me, lo
cks will
>> only serve to cause more damage if someone really wants your avionics, a
nd
>> only will stop the casual small time thief.
>>
>> I installed a car alarm in the door pin circuit. My doors are never
>> locked but if I arm the alarm with the key fob I get the =9Cchirp
chirp=9D and
>> if someone opens the doors they get a loud wailing horn. That should be
>> plenty to drive away the casual thief, and maybe even the guy who really
>> wants my avionics. In fact, if someone can break into your locked or
>> unlocked plane in silence, I think you=99re more at risk than any
other
>> situation.
>> But at least I don=99t HAVE to have damage done to the plane just
because
>> someone attempted the theft.
>> Easy and cheap, too.
>> Tim
>>
>> On Nov 20, 2017, at 10:21 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
>>
>> It's messages like this that make me remember-that-I-forgot... to instal
l
>> any type of locking mechanism when assembling the doors. Standard facto
ry
>> latch and handles with the Plane-Around aftermarket safety latch kit.
>>
>> I don't think I want to run a bike cable lock under the belly around bot
h
>> handles. Wondering: do I even care about locking the plane (easy enough
to
>> break into even if locked, and they'd damage less if the doors simply
>> opened...), and if I do care, are there options installable from the
>> outside - which it the only side not yet finished and painted.
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 8:42 AM, whodja wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Any suggestions for doors with Sid handle. I=99d like to install
locks on
>>> both doors.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475304#475304
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/
>>> Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Orre" <s51flyer(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Pushrod Priming? |
Thanks, guys. Appreciate the feedback. Good ideas on priming. Next
step, prime the tube.
Bob O.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Pushrod Priming?
Fair enough. I just flushed it and flushed it and flushed it.
Thinking about it more, I even alodined the thing too. I had a couple
of 6-8 ft sections of PVC pipe. One end was opened up, the other had a
fitting where I mounted a hose bibb. I could fill one pvc tube with
acid etch. The other with alodine. Then I'd drop the long pieces
inside the pvc tube. When done, I'd open the hose bibb and recapture
each solution back in it's original container. Worked pretty well and I
think they're still out in my garage.
On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
I would argue against using acid etch/alodine in any area that you can't
access afterwards. I think the risk of not fully removing the acid
exceeds any risk of poor bonding of the paint. The area will never be
subject to any abrasion or scratching that tests paint adhesion.
The primer itself contains sacrificial material to react with any
oxidizing moisture. Of course I don't base in a corrosive atmosphere of
coastal areas, so I'm certainly biased. If we aren't careful, we could
re-ignite primer wars. ;-))
On 11/20/2017 5:33 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
Yep. Capped off one end and filled the tube with acid etch. Dumped
it. Rinsed it. Allowed to dry.
Then recalled it. mixed about a cup of primer, poured it in, and rolled
the tube around.
Looking inside with a flashlight, you can see where primer is and
isn=99t. Kept moving it around until it was all coated.
Pretty easy and nothing to fret.
Phil
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| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Pushrod Priming? |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Ive always heard that linseed oil does a good job protecting metal from rusting
when put on properly, that is wiping off the excess . Dousing a rag and pushing
and pulling it through the pushrod worked well for me .
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475434#475434
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doc <docclv(at)windstream.net> |
Guys: I used the extra lock that comes with the kit to make a keyed
lock for the left door. It basically turns the bolt (like the baggage
door) so that the end of the bolt is in line with the top geared slide
bar in the door latch preventing the top geared bar from moving forward
letting the door locking tubes release the door. You can find the
details of how I mounted the lock in Matronics archives or Vans Airforce
archives as I have listed the instructions on each web site. You can
also make a very simple slide in the handle of the right door which
prevents one from pushing the door handle button in from the out side so
the handle can not be turned. This too is in both archives. If you
can't find them, send me a self addressed envelope and I will send you
copies of the instructions and drawings of how to do it. The left door
lock will not mess up the paint if you have it painted already. Carroll
Verhage 1202 Road 12, Geneva, NE 68361 #41087 N123CV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Hi everyone.
I'm about to do my first annual on the RV-10 and during the past year of flying,
I've come up with a few slight changes/improvements I'm thinking of doing while
I'm at it.
One thing I'm wondering about is the potential for icing on the fuel air vent.
Not that I have any intention whatsoever of ever coming close to known icing
conditions, but it's those unexpected conditions that sometimes get you. Van's
suggests (and I implemented) the alternate air door in the air box for that
reason. But in looking closely at the two fuel vents, it seems that they would
be very prone to ice buildup if ever in conditions conducive to it.. and especially
since the vent 45 cut is angled forwards into the airstream. It seems
to me that if those vents were to plug with even a small amount of ice, the clock
would start ticking down quickly to fuel starvation. And I could see ice
building plugging up those vents far before it would the air filter.
I've heard/read of a few things people have done to their fuel vents to mitigate
this - a check valve in the wing root that opens if a bit of suction appears
in the vent, a small "bypass hole" drilled in the vent line on the trailing edge
of the line or possibly in the wing root, or a little "shroud" in front of
the vent line externally to have ice build up on that instead of the vent. I'm
here to see if anyone has opinions on what might be the best way to deal with
this (or if I'm worrying about nothing).
I do have to wonder exactly why the vent is external to the wing root in the first
place - if it were in the wing root, it would be mostly protected from ice
buildup, and surely enough air would get into the root area through the various
cracks around the fairings. Though I suspect that the positive pressure it
sees external to the wing oriented as it is does help with fuel flow..
Suggestions?
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
If you put the vent in the wing root, then after you top off the tank and park
in the sun, the gas will expand - and pour gas into the wing root, if thats where
the vent is.
I used Tim Olsens method - check valve to aux vent in the wing root, only opens
if theres negative pressure.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475441#475441
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wtb: RV10 project |
| From: | Steve Farner <farnersteve(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Bill- Did you find a project yet? I have a 10 tailcone kit in
Omaha. I have not quite accepted this yet, but I don't think I'm a
builder! I have the feathers mostly done, and the cone is ready to
break down and dimple. I have not made a firm decision to sell at this
point, but since I have not really worked on it in over a year, it might
be time to free up the garage space.
Steve Farner
On 9/18/2017 3:36 PM, William Davis wrote:
>
>
> William Davis wrote:
>> I built a RV6A and need 4 seats now. Looking for a rv10 project. Please let
me know what you have. Flyhigh77777(at)gmail.com
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill[/list]
>
>
> I'm still looking for a RV10 project. Please email me if you've got a project
you're looking to sell or trade for a mint RV6A.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=472995#472995
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2267_298.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Ive been looking for a check valve where can you get one with low psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=690
3
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with low
psi?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry escre
veu:
> Here you go Dave..
>
> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=6
903
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>
>>
>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with lo
w psi?
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 for sale
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>
>>
>> <========================
==========================
==sp; --> htt====================
======; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
=bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt Dralle, Li
st Admin.
>> <========================
==========================
=====
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
That was too easy Phil, looks just right.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475458#475458
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Baer <jbaer(at)LititzPP.com> |
Happy Thanksgiving to the group.
Is there a data base of RV-10 builders addresses or rough geographic locati
on? Barring that, are any being built close to Lancaster Pennsylvania?
Thanks
John Baer
Lititz Precision Products LLC
Lititz PA USA
www.LititzPP.com
JBaer(at)LititzPP.com
Cell (EST USA) (717) 413-7931
Skype: John.Baer7712
From: <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Carlos Trigo <tr
igo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Date: Thursday, November 23, 2017 at 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry escreveu
:
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=6903
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with low psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<====================================================sp; --> htt===========
===============; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
==========================bsp; - List Contribution Web S;
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
<=======================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
I'm surprised that Tim O hasn't jumped in yet but he describes how to add a
one way valve into the ventilation system; he used a valve from McMaster-C
arr.
Fuel Vent Ice Protection
Best wishes to all,
Rodgerin NW Oz where icing will never be a problem!
|
| |
Fuel Vent Ice Protection
| |
|
On Thursday, 23 November 2017, 22:42, Carlos Trigo wrote:
And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
Carlos=C2-
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry escr
eveu:
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=69
03
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with low
psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<========================
===sp;=C2---> htt================
==========;=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-- MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
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Web S;=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
<========================
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Thank you Rodger
and Tim
Now to order the hardware...
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 15:27, Rodger Todd escreveu
:
> I'm surprised that Tim O hasn't jumped in yet but he describes how to add a
one way valve into the ventilation system; he used a valve from McMaster-Ca
rr.
>
> Fuel Vent Ice Protection
>
> Best wishes to all,
>
> Rodger
> in NW Oz where icing will never be a problem!
>
> Fuel Vent Ice Protection
>
>
>
> On Thursday, 23 November 2017, 22:42, Carlos Trigo
wrote:
>
>
> And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry esc
reveu:
>
>> Here you go Dave..
>>
>> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with l
ow psi?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Dave Ford
>>> RV6 for sale
>>> RV10 building
>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>>
>>>
>>> <========================
===sp; --> htt===================
=======; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt Dralle,
List Admin.
>>> <========================
======
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Carlos,
It's installed by putting a "T" fitting where there vent exits the tank.
One leg goes down as usual and pokes out the bottom fairing. The other
leg goes to the check valve and never exits the wing root.
The orientation of the valve has to be such that air can pass through the
valve in the direction of the tank (obviously).
The idea is that when the primary vent unknowingly becomes blocked (ice,
bugs, etc), the check valve will open and allow venting from the wing
root. As the fuel pump sucks the fuel out of the tank, the pressure drops
inside the tank, and that is what opens the vent without any intervention
on your part.
On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 8:23 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote
:
> And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry
> escreveu:
>
> Here you go Dave..
>
> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.
> php?clickkey=6903
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with lo
w psi?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>
>
> <========================
===sp; -->
> htt=======================
===; - MATRONI;
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>http://forums.matronics.com
> http://wiki.matronics.com
> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web
> S; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> <========================
======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
Not perfectly current, but this is pretty good
http://www.vansairforce.net/rvwp.htm
Bob
On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 8:59 AM John Baer wrote:
> Happy Thanksgiving to the group.
>
> Is there a data base of RV-10 builders addresses or rough geographic
> location? Barring that, are any being built close to Lancaster
> Pennsylvania?
>
> Thanks
>
> John Baer
> Lititz Precision Products LLC
> Lititz PA USA
> www.LititzPP.com
> JBaer(at)LititzPP.com
> Cell (EST USA) (717) 413-7931
> Skype: John.Baer7712
>
> From: <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Carlos Trigo <
> trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
> Reply-To:
> Date: Thursday, November 23, 2017 at 9:23 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
>
> And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry
> escreveu:
>
> Here you go Dave..
>
> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
>
> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with lo
w psi?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>
>
> <========================
===sp; --> htt==================
========; -
> MATRONI; <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://wiki.matronics.com
> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web
> S; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> <========================
======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Thank you Philip
CT
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Phillip Perry
Enviada: Thursday, November 23, 2017 3:52 PM
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
Carlos,
It's installed by putting a "T" fitting where there vent exits the tank.
One leg goes down as usual and pokes out the bottom fairing. The
other leg goes to the check valve and never exits the wing root.
The orientation of the valve has to be such that air can pass through
the valve in the direction of the tank (obviously).
The idea is that when the primary vent unknowingly becomes blocked (ice,
bugs, etc), the check valve will open and allow venting from the wing
root. As the fuel pump sucks the fuel out of the tank, the pressure
drops inside the tank, and that is what opens the vent without any
intervention on your part.
On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 8:23 AM, Carlos Trigo > wrote:
And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry > escreveu:
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave > wrote:
>
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with
low psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<========================
===sp; --> htt=; <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
- MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
=bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
<========================
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
My pleasure
On Friday, 24 November 2017, 0:28, Carlos Trigo
wrote:
Thank you Rodgerand Tim
Now to order the hardware...
ThanksCarlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 15:27, Rodger Todd escreve
u:
I'm surprised that Tim O hasn't jumped in yet but he describes how to add a
one way valve into the ventilation system; he used a valve from McMaster-C
arr.
Fuel Vent Ice Protection
Best wishes to all,
Rodgerin NW Oz where icing will never be a problem!
|
| |
Fuel Vent Ice Protection
| |
|
On Thursday, 23 November 2017, 22:42, Carlos Trigo wrote:
And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
Carlos=C2-
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry escr
eveu:
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=69
03
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with low
psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<========================
===sp;=C2---> htt================
==========;=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-- MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
=bsp;=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-- List Contribution
Web S;=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
<========================
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
John. I don=99t know of a current directory. However. My RV-10 i
s located at KXLL in Allentown, Pa. Not far at all from Lancaster.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
610-928-3420
> On Nov 23, 2017, at 9:49 AM, John Baer wrote:
>
> Happy Thanksgiving to the group.
>
> Is there a data base of RV-10 builders addresses or rough geographic locat
ion? Barring that, are any being built close to Lancaster Pennsylvania?
>
> Thanks
>
> John Baer
> Lititz Precision Products LLC
> Lititz PA USA
> www.LititzPP.com
> JBaer(at)LititzPP.com
> Cell (EST USA) (717) 413-7931
> Skype: John.Baer7712
>
> From: <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Carlos Trigo <tr
igo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
> Reply-To:
> Date: Thursday, November 23, 2017 at 9:23 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
>
> And where and how is this installed in the fuel vent?
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 23/11/2017, =C3-s 13:20, Phillip Perry esc
reveu:
>
>> Here you go Dave..
>>
>> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with l
ow psi?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Dave Ford
>>> RV6 for sale
>>> RV10 building
>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>>
>>>
>>> <========================
==========================
==sp; --> htt====================
======; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt Dralle,
List Admin.
>>> <========================
==========================
=====
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jess Meyers" <beltedair(at)aol.com> |
- This mail is in HTML. Some elements may be ommited in plain text. -
Good morning,I made a quick trip out of the country for a short Vacati
on, unfortunately i had my bag stolen from me with my phone on my way
back to my hotel room. I need your urgent help before my return flight.
Jess
Good morning,I made a quick trip out of the country for a short Vac
ation, unfortunately i had my bag stolen from me with my phone on my w
ay back to my hotel room. I need your urgent help before my return fli
ght.
Jess
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wiring and going on a diet |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
On my build I decided to use CCA (Copper Clad Aluminium) wire from perihelion designs.
Info and specs on it can be found at:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm
I am quite surprised at how much lighter it is. Apparently it is used by the big
guys (ie AirBus etc) due to the weight savings.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475481#475481
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring and going on a diet |
I=99ve been flying with this wire since 2007. 1700 hours and not a s
ingle
issue. And yes, significantly lighter.
=94Dave
On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 2:48 PM kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> On my build I decided to use CCA (Copper Clad Aluminium) wire from
> perihelion designs.
>
> Info and specs on it can be found at:
>
> http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm
>
> I am quite surprised at how much lighter it is. Apparently it is used by
> the big guys (ie AirBus etc) due to the weight savings.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475481#475481
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring and going on a diet |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
What do you estimate the weight savings? Perhaps we would do better to
reduce weight of the front seat occupants by say 5 lbs?
On 11/23/2017 4:59 PM, David Saylor wrote:
> Ive been flying with this wire since 2007. 1700 hours and not a single
> issue. And yes, significantly lighter.
>
> Dave
>
> On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 2:48 PM kearney > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Hi
>
> On my build I decided to use CCA (Copper Clad Aluminium) wire from
> perihelion designs.
>
> Info and specs on it can be found at:
>
> http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm
>
> I am quite surprised at how much lighter it is. Apparently it is
> used by the big guys (ie AirBus etc) due to the weight savings.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Some assembly required
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475481#475481
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring and going on a diet |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Kelly
What a great idea. Go on a diet and also save weight on the battery cable.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475489#475489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven DeFord <riveteddragon(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring and going on a diet |
I thought the aluminum wires were more susceptible to work hardening and cracking
than he copper ones.
Steve
> On Nov 23, 2017, at 20:40, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi Kelly
>
> What a great idea. Go on a diet and also save weight on the battery cable.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475489#475489
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on
this
Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure
(vacuum, actually).
If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your
tank will
have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just
caution to
make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
collapse.
Tim
On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
> Here you go Dave..
>
> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=6903
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave > wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> Ive been looking for a check valve where can you get one with low psi?
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 for sale
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>
>>
>> <====================================================sp;-->
>> htt==========================;- MATRONI;
>> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========================bsp;- List Contribution Web
>> S;-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> <=======================================================
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring and going on a diet |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Like others, Im curious as to how many pounds were saved.
Also, since this wire is fatter, did you have to oversize any bushings to get the
wire(s) thru?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475492#475492
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Is there any reason you can just use a free flow check valve? If the vent ic
ed over it freely sucks air through the check valve. If the fuel expands and
starts coming out the vent, there would not be ice there to start with beca
use of the temperature.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 24, 2017, at 12:12 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on t
his
> Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
>
> I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure (vacuum, a
ctually).
> If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your tank
will
> have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
> return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
>
> I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
>
> I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just caution t
o
> make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
> Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
> collapse.
>
> Tim
>
>
>> On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>> Here you go Dave..
>>
>> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with l
ow psi?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Dave Ford
>>> RV6 for sale
>>> RV10 building
>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>>
>>>
>>> <========================
==========================
==sp; --> htt====================
======; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt Dralle,
List Admin.
>>> <========================
==========================
=====
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring and going on a diet |
If you replace 2AWG with "Super 2 CCA" (what I used) from the battery to
the firewall, you save about 2 lbs.
I ran the wire up the right side of the fuse, under the door sill, across
the panel structure to my GPU plug in front of the left door. I did have
to accommodate the larger size. I don't recall any specific adverse issues
but like any mod it took more effort.
Perihelion lists specs and discusses work hardening, corrosion, etc. Like
I said, my installation has been trouble free for some time.
--Dave
On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 9:22 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Like others, I=99m curious as to how many pounds were saved.
> Also, since this wire is fatter, did you have to oversize any bushings to
> get the wire(s) thru?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475492#475492
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Tim
In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says that t
his valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
Will this work for this application?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson escreveu:
> Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on t
his
> Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
>
> I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure (vacuum, a
ctually).
> If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your tank
will
> have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
> return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
>
> I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
>
> I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just ca
ution to
> make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
> Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
> collapse.
>
> Tim
>
>
>> On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>> Here you go Dave..
>>
>> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with l
ow psi?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Dave Ford
>>> RV6 for sale
>>> RV10 building
>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>>
>>>
>>> <========================
==========================
==sp; --> htt====================
======; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt Dralle,
List Admin.
>>> <========================
==========================
=====
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
If it says 0 psi I would say that is excellent and should be great.
Tim
> On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Tim
>
> In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says tha
t this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
> Will this work for this application?
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson escreveu:
>
>> Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on t
his
>> Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
>>
>> I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure (vacuum,
actually).
>> If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your tan
k will
>> have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
>> return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
>>
>> I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
>>
>> I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just caution
to
>> make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
>> Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
>> collapse.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>> On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>> Here you go Dave..
>>>
>>> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with l
ow psi?
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Dave Ford
>>>> RV6 for sale
>>>> RV10 building
>>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <========================
==========================
==sp; --> htt====================
======; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt Dralle,
List Admin.
>>>> <========================
==========================
=====
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
I should have read again before replying... darn.
That check valve will work fine, as would any free flow valve, but, the othe
r down side is your fuel vents are 1/4=9D tubing and that particular v
alve uses 3/8=9D fittings, so you will need to buy additional adapters
to fit it in, which may require a little more creativity in mounting. At $
27.50 it isn=99t super cheap either but looks like good quality. I don
=99t remember what I paid, but it would be worth checking out what oth
er valves you can find because if you can find one that is 1/8=9D NPT i
t may be easier to adapt. That said, mine is brass and is probably heavier t
han this one is too.
Tim
> On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Tim
>
> In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says tha
t this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
> Will this work for this application?
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson escreveu:
>
>> Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on t
his
>> Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
>>
>> I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure (vacuum,
actually).
>> If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your tan
k will
>> have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
>> return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
>>
>> I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
>>
>> I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just caution
to
>> make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
>> Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
>> collapse.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>> On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>> Here you go Dave..
>>>
>>> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with l
ow psi?
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Dave Ford
>>>> RV6 for sale
>>>> RV10 building
>>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <========================
==========================
==sp; --> htt====================
======; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt Dralle,
List Admin.
>>>> <========================
==========================
=====
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Yes. 0 psi on the valve to break it out.
I have a pair sitting in a box that I haven=99t installed yet and can p
lay with them to see how they behave. But 0 psi is what they claim for brea
kout and 20 psi max pressure.
It also mentions that the valve can be installed in any orientation.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Tim
>
> In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says tha
t this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
> Will this work for this application?
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson escreveu:
>
>> Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on t
his
>> Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
>>
>> I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure (vacuum,
actually).
>> If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your tan
k will
>> have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
>> return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
>>
>> I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
>>
>> I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just caution
to
>> make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
>> Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
>> collapse.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>> On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>> Here you go Dave..
>>>
>>> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with l
ow psi?
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Dave Ford
>>>> RV6 for sale
>>>> RV10 building
>>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <========================
==========================
==sp; --> htt====================
======; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ========================
==bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt Dralle,
List Admin.
>>>> <========================
==========================
=====
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
| From: | John Baer <jbaer(at)LititzPP.com> |
Keep in mind that a 1 PSI pressure (or vacuum) over a 12=9D X 12=9D surface
area produces 144 pounds of force. Would you stand on your tank? Be carefu
l which check valve you use.
J
John Baer
Lititz Precision Products LLC
Lititz PA USA
www.LititzPP.com
Cell (EST USA) (717) 413-7931
Skype: John.Baer7712
From: <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Tim Olson <Tim@M
yRV10.com>
Date: Friday, November 24, 2017 at 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
If it says 0 psi I would say that is excellent and should be great.
Tim
On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
Tim
In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says that
this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
Will this work for this application?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson escreveu:
Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on th
is
Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure (vacuum,
actually).
If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your tank
will
have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just caution
to
make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
collapse.
Tim
On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=6903
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with low psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<====================================================sp; --> htt===========
===============; - MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
==========================bsp; - List Contribution Web S;
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
<=======================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some
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Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get a well-managed media
source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to think of it, you do...
:-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
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I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during
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Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
1. I went with the micro hole in the tube. Yes, loose a little positive
pressure, maybe, but KISS applies.
2. I do not know how to calculate the pressure left in the tank during
fuel burn with a clogged tube, but I know it is based on total air
volume and a perfect seal with the gas cap. So how long would it take
to get to .5 or .3 PSI? If someone knows and likes doing that type of
thing it would be interesting to calculate and build a graph. Is
pressure (vacuum) directly proportional to volume? E.g. as the fuel is
pump the air fills in the volume. So the last gallon has a lesser
affect than the first gallon. It could be interesting to see. Also,
how big would the check valve or micro hole really need to be. When
would the mechanical fuel pump begin having problems pulling the fuel
out of the tanketc all questions that come to mind.
I went KISS. And after 10 years (almost) of flying my -10 I have
learned that a little bit of completely has a long term cost. I mod my
airplane every year it seems and I like doing it..but I hate
HAVING to do maintenance before the next flight.
(KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid)
Now, back to work so I can take tomorrow off and fix my Navworx problem.
Thank you to all the guys who did the work on the AMOCs. Ralph Capen
and Bob Leffler in particular in my case.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Baer
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
Keep in mind that a 1 PSI pressure (or vacuum) over a 12=9D X
12=9D surface area produces 144 pounds of force. Would you stand
on your tank? Be careful which check valve you use.
J
John Baer
Lititz Precision Products LLC
Lititz PA USA
<http://www.LititzPP.com> www.LititzPP.com
Cell (EST USA) (717) 413-7931
Skype: John.Baer7712
From: < <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Tim Olson <
Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Friday, November 24, 2017 at 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
If it says 0 psi I would say that is excellent and should be great.
Tim
On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo <
trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
Tim
In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says
that this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
Will this work for this application?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson <
Tim(at)MyRV10.com> escreveu:
Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on
this
Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure
(vacuum, actually).
If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your
tank will
have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html>
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just
caution to
make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
collapse.
Tim
On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
Here you go Dave..
<http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903>
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave <
rv610dave(at)gmail.com> wrote:
rv610dave(at)gmail.com>
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with
low psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<========================
===sp; --> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
htt========================
==; - MATRONI; <http://forums.matronics.com>
http://forums.matronics.com
<http://wiki.matronics.com> http://wiki.matronics.com
=bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
<========================
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
By the way, Tim and all the experts in this forum
If the conditions create ice in the tip of the tube (which is in the air
stream), why does it nor create ice inside the wing cavity as well?
Is it because the ice is created not only by the air temperature, but
also by the positive dynamic pressure in the vent tube tip?
Wondering minds want to know
Thanks
Carlos
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Tim Olson
Enviada: Friday, November 24, 2017 1:02 PM
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
I should have read again before replying... darn.
That check valve will work fine, as would any free flow valve, but, the
other down side is your fuel vents are 1/4=9D tubing and that
particular valve uses 3/8=9D fittings, so you will need to buy
additional adapters to fit it in, which may require a little more
creativity in mounting. At $27.50 it isn=99t super cheap either
but looks like good quality. I don=99t remember what I paid, but
it would be worth checking out what other valves you can find because if
you can find one that is 1/8=9D NPT it may be easier to adapt.
That said, mine is brass and is probably heavier than this one is too.
Tim
On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo > wrote:
Tim
In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says
that this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
Will this work for this application?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson > escreveu:
Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on
this
Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure
(vacuum, actually).
If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your
tank will
have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just
caution to
make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
collapse.
Tim
On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave > wrote:
>
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with
low psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<========================
===sp; -->
htt========================
==; <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> -
MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
=bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
<========================
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
No expert here.if you do encounter icing check out the fuel
tank drain when you get on the ground. I do not remember seeing any on
the vent tube, was not looking, just noted a large chunk on the fuel
drain.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
By the way, Tim and all the experts in this forum
If the conditions create ice in the tip of the tube (which is in the air
stream), why does it nor create ice inside the wing cavity as well?
Is it because the ice is created not only by the air temperature, but
also by the positive dynamic pressure in the vent tube tip?
Wondering minds want to know
Thanks
Carlos
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Tim Olson
Enviada: Friday, November 24, 2017 1:02 PM
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
I should have read again before replying... darn.
That check valve will work fine, as would any free flow valve, but, the
other down side is your fuel vents are 1/4=9D tubing and that
particular valve uses 3/8=9D fittings, so you will need to buy
additional adapters to fit it in, which may require a little more
creativity in mounting. At $27.50 it isn=99t super cheap either
but looks like good quality. I don=99t remember what I paid, but
it would be worth checking out what other valves you can find because if
you can find one that is 1/8=9D NPT it may be easier to adapt.
That said, mine is brass and is probably heavier than this one is too.
Tim
On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo > wrote:
Tim
In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says
that this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
Will this work for this application?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson > escreveu:
Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on
this
Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure
(vacuum, actually).
If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your
tank will
have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just
caution to
make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
collapse.
Tim
On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave > wrote:
>
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with
low psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<========================
===sp; -->
htt========================
==; <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> -
MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
=bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
<========================
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
That's an easy one. The ice comes from direct contact with the
moisture in the air, not just because it's cold out. There
may be bits of liquid that DO get in the wing cavity during
flight, if you're in actual liquid rain, and those could freeze,
but it's unlikely that anything significant would get thru the
cracks if you're just talking cloud vapor.
With supercooled water, it will freeze on contact and my guess
is that even if you hit that while flying, it would freeze before it
would get significantly far into the wing cavity, maybe even
sealing the cracks it flows into.
But, all of the icing is from moisture, not air temp.
Tim
On 11/24/2017 10:28 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
> By the way, Tim and all the experts in this forum
>
> If the conditions create ice in the tip of the tube (which is in the air
> stream), why does it nor create ice inside the wing cavity as well?
>
> Is it because the ice is created not only by the air temperature, but
> also by the positive dynamic pressure in the vent tube tip?
>
> Wondering minds want to know
>
> Thanks
>
> Carlos
>
> *De:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *Em nome de *Tim Olson
> *Enviada:* Friday, November 24, 2017 1:02 PM
> *Para:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Assunto:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
>
> I should have read again before replying... darn.
>
> That check valve will work fine, as would any free flow valve, but, the
> other down side is your fuel vents are 1/4 tubing and that particular
> valve uses 3/8 fittings, so you will need to buy additional adapters to
> fit it in, which may require a little more creativity in mounting. At
> $27.50 it isnt super cheap either but looks like good quality. I dont
> remember what I paid, but it would be worth checking out what other
> valves you can find because if you can find one that is 1/8 NPT it may
> be easier to adapt. That said, mine is brass and is probably heavier
> than this one is too.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo > wrote:
>
> Tim
>
> In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it
> says that this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
>
> Will this work for this application?
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
> No dia 24/11/2017, s 05:12, Tim Olson > escreveu:
>
> Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the
> link on this
> Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
>
> I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure
> (vacuum, actually).
> If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve,
> your tank will
> have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for
> fuel flow
> return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
>
> I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of
> .3 psi.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
>
> I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would
> just caution to
> make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
> Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
> collapse.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Here you go Dave..
>
> http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=6903
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Ive been looking for a check valve where can you get
> one with low psi?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
>
>
> <===========================sp;-->
> htt==========================;- MATRONI;
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>http://forums.matronics.com
> http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========================bsp;- List
> Contribution Web S;-Matt Dralle, List
> Admin.
> <==============================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I got two of these from amazon - McMaster Carr is difficult to use in Canada.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A63WB70/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Specs say cracking pressure is about 1/2 PSIG
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475594#475594
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
In addition to the Van=99s recommended small hole drilled on the
back side of the line just above the end of the vent line, why not drill
the same diameter hole in the tubing underneath the wing fairing, giving
a second possible relief should the vent tube opening get plugged??
grumpy
> On Nov 24, 2017, at 7:02 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I should have read again before replying... darn.
> That check valve will work fine, as would any free flow valve, but,
the other down side is your fuel vents are 1/4=9D tubing and that
particular valve uses 3/8=9D fittings, so you will need to buy
additional adapters to fit it in, which may require a little more
creativity in mounting. At $27.50 it isn=99t super cheap either
but looks like good quality. I don=99t remember what I paid, but
it would be worth checking out what other valves you can find because if
you can find one that is 1/8=9D NPT it may be easier to adapt.
That said, mine is brass and is probably heavier than this one is too.
> Tim
>
> On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo > wrote:
>
>> Tim
>>
>> In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it
says that this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
>> Will this work for this application?
>>
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>> No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson > escreveu:
>>
>>> Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the
link on this
>>> Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
>>>
>>> I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure
(vacuum, actually).
>>> If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve,
your tank will
>>> have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel
flow
>>> return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
>>>
>>> I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3
psi.
>>>
>>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html>
>>>
>>> I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just
caution to
>>> make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
>>> Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
>>> collapse.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>> On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>>> Here you go Dave..
>>>>
>>>>
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=6
903
<http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave > wrote:
>>>>
>
>>>>>
>>>>> I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one
with low psi?
>>>>>
>>>>> --------
>>>>> Dave Ford
>>>>> RV6 for sale
>>>>> RV10 building
>>>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <=======================
====sp; -->
htt========================
==;=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2--
MATRONI;
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>http://forums.matronics.com
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
>>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>>> =======================
===bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
>>>>> <=======================
=======
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Parish Moffitt" <parish(at)parishmoffitt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent |
Anything sticking out into the airflow will accumulate ice when in
=9Cicing conditions=9D and =9Cicing
conditions=9D can occur at a temperature higher than you would
think. On airplanes that fly in the ice all the time, one of the common
ways we evaluate the severity is to look for something small sticking
out into the airstream (like the safety wire on the windshield wipers).
Parish
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 11:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
No expert here.if you do encounter icing check out the fuel
tank drain when you get on the ground. I do not remember seeing any on
the vent tube, was not looking, just noted a large chunk on the fuel
drain.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
By the way, Tim and all the experts in this forum
If the conditions create ice in the tip of the tube (which is in the air
stream), why does it nor create ice inside the wing cavity as well?
Is it because the ice is created not only by the air temperature, but
also by the positive dynamic pressure in the vent tube tip?
Wondering minds want to know
Thanks
Carlos
De: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Tim Olson
Enviada: Friday, November 24, 2017 1:02 PM
Para: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice prevention on fuel vent
I should have read again before replying... darn.
That check valve will work fine, as would any free flow valve, but, the
other down side is your fuel vents are 1/4=9D tubing and that
particular valve uses 3/8=9D fittings, so you will need to buy
additional adapters to fit it in, which may require a little more
creativity in mounting. At $27.50 it isn=99t super cheap either
but looks like good quality. I don=99t remember what I paid, but
it would be worth checking out what other valves you can find because if
you can find one that is 1/8=9D NPT it may be easier to adapt.
That said, mine is brass and is probably heavier than this one is too.
Tim
On Nov 24, 2017, at 3:53 AM, Carlos Trigo > wrote:
Tim
In the Q+A for this ACS valve, at the Aircraft Spruce website, it says
that this valve breakout pressure is 0 psi.
Will this work for this application?
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 24/11/2017, =C3-s 05:12, Tim Olson > escreveu:
Regarding that check valve...I just got around to looking at the link on
this
Aircraft Spruce one, Phil.
I know you want one with a very very very low operating pressure
(vacuum, actually).
If you get even a couple of psi that it takes to open the valve, your
tank will
have probably imploded by then. This valve appears to be for fuel flow
return lines. It doesn't seem to give a spec.
I got a valve from McMaster Carr that had a cracking pressure of .3 psi.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20090525/index.html
I can't say that the valve you linked to is bad, but I would just
caution to
make sure that it's probably no more than 1psi of cracking pressure.
Any valve that takes more than that to operate may risk tank
collapse.
Tim
On 11/23/2017 7:20 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
Here you go Dave..
http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acscheckvalve.php?clickkey=
6903
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2017, at 3:57 AM, rvdave > wrote:
>
I=99ve been looking for a check valve where can you get one with
low psi?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475455#475455
<========================
===sp; -->
htt========================
==; <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> -
MATRONI; http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
=bsp; - List Contribution Web S; -Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
<========================
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Towbars and FBOs |
Do FBO's usually have a towbar that will fit on an RV-10? I thought I
remember reading that the answer is usually not and have a hazy memory of a
modification to enable standard towbars to fit. What says the list?
I know a number of folks simply ask the FBO not to move the airplane, but
at least with FBOs I've encountered that may be a bit much to ask.
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John MacCallum" <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Towbars and FBOs |
Hi Guys,
Being downunder I am not familiar with the Acronym FBO.
I know they must be the people that help marshal aircraft but can
someone fill me in?
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV 10 # 41016 Flying
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Carr
Sent: Sunday, 26 November 2017 1:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Towbars and FBOs
Do FBO's usually have a towbar that will fit on an RV-10? I thought I
remember reading that the answer is usually not and have a hazy memory
of a modification to enable standard towbars to fit. What says the
list?
I know a number of folks simply ask the FBO not to move the airplane,
but at least with FBOs I've encountered that may be a bit much to ask.
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Towbars and FBOs |
> On 2017-Nov-25, at 7:43 PM, David Carr wrote:
>
> Do FBO's usually have a towbar that will fit on an RV-10? I thought I remember
reading that the answer is usually not and have a hazy memory of a modification
to enable standard towbars to fit. What says the list?
I've been to around 15-20 FBOs last year (US and Canada) and though I brought my
tow bar with me the first few flights, I soon started leaving it at home, since
all the FBOs that needed to move my plane had a way of doing so. Most have
tow bars with interchangeable ends... I know that at one FBO, they commented
that they had to change out the ends for what they used for some model of light
jet (can't remember which one), but so far (knock on wood), they've all had
a way of fitting.
I do have slightly enlarged access holes to the bolts on the nose gear.. I can't
remember by how much, but they are a bit larger than called for on the plans.
Maybe that helps.
I plan on modifying the tow bar bolts shortly to sit flush with the wheel fairings
instead of recessed inside so that in case a tow bar slips off it doesn't
destroy the fairing, so when that's done it should be even easier for generic
tow bars to fit. But regardless, I haven't had any problem with Van's stock design
(albeit with slightly enlarged access holes as I said).
Dan
>
> I know a number of folks simply ask the FBO not to move the airplane, but at
least with FBOs I've encountered that may be a bit much to ask.
>
> Thanks,
> David
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Towbars and FBOs |
Fixed base operator, your assumption is correct.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of John MacCallum
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2017 3:24:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Towbars and FBOs
Hi Guys,
Being downunder I am not familiar with the Acronym FBO.
I know they must be the people that help marshal aircraft but can someone f
ill me in?
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV 10 # 41016 Flying
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of David Carr
Sent: Sunday, 26 November 2017 1:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Towbars and FBOs
Do FBO's usually have a towbar that will fit on an RV-10? I thought I reme
mber reading that the answer is usually not and have a hazy memory of a mod
ification to enable standard towbars to fit. What says the list?
I know a number of folks simply ask the FBO not to move the airplane, but a
t least with FBOs I've encountered that may be a bit much to ask.
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Towbars and FBOs |
FBO=Fixed Base Operator. The company that provides fuel, parking, possibly
maintenance at an airport.
May also be associated with or run a flight school, rent aircraft, etc.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Sun, Nov 26, 2017 at 1:24 AM, John MacCallum
wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> Being downunder I am not familiar with the Acronym FBO.
>
> I know they must be the people that help marshal aircraft but can someone
> fill me in?
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> John MacCallum
>
> VH-DUU
>
> RV 10 # 41016 Flying
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David Carr
> *Sent:* Sunday, 26 November 2017 1:43 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Towbars and FBOs
>
>
> Do FBO's usually have a towbar that will fit on an RV-10? I thought I
> remember reading that the answer is usually not and have a hazy memory of a
> modification to enable standard towbars to fit. What says the list?
>
>
> I know a number of folks simply ask the FBO not to move the airplane, but
> at least with FBOs I've encountered that may be a bit much to ask.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> David
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Towbars and FBOs |
As others have noted, a business that provides fuel, hangars, tie-downs,
perhaps maintenance, flight training, etc. I believe the origin of the
term =9CFixed Base Operator=9D goes back to the very early
days of aviation in this country. =9CBarnstormers=9D flew
around the country selling airplane rides, performing at county fairs,
maybe providing a charter service, or whatever else they could do to
make a $ and had no =9Cfixed base=9D of operations. The term
FBO differentiated the barnstormer from the operator that had a fixed
place of business.
David Maib
N380DM
RV-10 #40559 (will go over 1000 hours next week!)
On Nov 26, 2017, at 3:24 AM, John MacCallum
wrote:
Hi Guys,
Being downunder I am not familiar with the Acronym FBO.
I know they must be the people that help marshal aircraft but can
someone fill me in?
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV 10 # 41016 Flying
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
] On Behalf Of David Carr
Sent: Sunday, 26 November 2017 1:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Towbars and FBOs
Do FBO's usually have a towbar that will fit on an RV-10? I thought I
remember reading that the answer is usually not and have a hazy memory
of a modification to enable standard towbars to fit. What says the
list?
I know a number of folks simply ask the FBO not to move the airplane,
but at least with FBOs I've encountered that may be a bit much to ask.
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists!
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 door locks |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel900(at)gmail.com> |
I have a very sophisticated door lock on the right (co-pilot) side. I stick a
popsicle stick or tongue depressor in the free space under the aluminum
lock release.
--------
See you OSH '18
Q/B - flying 8 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475705#475705
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 door locks |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
AirMike wrote:
> I have a very sophisticated door lock on the right (co-pilot) side. I stick a
> popsicle stick or tongue depressor in the free space under the aluminum
> lock release.
I use a small piece of pine for the same purpose. Passengers are less likely to
stick it into their mouth. -:)
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475707#475707
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists!
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine
subscription!
Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the
Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your
Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have
helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Overhead Air Retro Fit |
We are thinking about installing the overhead air panel on an existing
RV-10 here on the field. Has anyone retrofitted the panel on an flying
airframe?
I installed mine when my cabin top was off. But I'm curious what your
experience was on the retro fit and issues you encountered?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again
- 54! :-) But it also means that it's that last official day of the Matronics
Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about picking up one of those
really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in
support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running
and I don't ever forget it.
The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Overhead Air Retro Fit |
Phil
We have had a couple people over the years install the overhead console
after the plane was completed. It is possible
Just awkward because you are working upside down. One person said if was
very easy. Never heard from the other
FWIW
Geoff
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal, Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2017 11:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Air Retro Fit
We are thinking about installing the overhead air panel on an existing
RV-10 here on the field. Has anyone retrofitted the panel on an flying
airframe?
I installed mine when my cabin top was off. But I'm curious what your
experience was on the retro fit and issues you encountered?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Air Retro Fit |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
It may be more do-able if you purchase an inverted fuel
and oil system for your RV-10. That way you can
get a helper or two and do it in-flight. If you can
hold it inverted long enough for the quick set
epoxy, it wouldn't be such a tough job.
Tim
On 11/30/2017 1:31 PM, Geoff Combs wrote:
> Phil
>
> We have had a couple people over the years install the overhead console
> after the plane was completed. It is possible
>
> Just awkward because you are working upside down. One person said if was
> very easy. Never heard from the other
>
> FWIW
>
> Geoff
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> Aerosport Modeling & Design
>
> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
>
> Canal, Winchester, Ohio 43110
>
> 614-834-5227
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Phillip Perry
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 29, 2017 11:55 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Overhead Air Retro Fit
>
> We are thinking about installing the overhead air panel on an existing
> RV-10 here on the field. Has anyone retrofitted the panel on an flying
> airframe?
>
> I installed mine when my cabin top was off. But I'm curious what your
> experience was on the retro fit and issues you encountered?
>
> Phil
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Air Retro Fit |
Hes wanting a clear coat over the carbon fiber finish. Whats the process to finish
off the carbon surface to get that nice finish?
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 30, 2017, at 1:55 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> It may be more do-able if you purchase an inverted fuel
> and oil system for your RV-10. That way you can
> get a helper or two and do it in-flight. If you can
> hold it inverted long enough for the quick set
> epoxy, it wouldn't be such a tough job.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>> On 11/30/2017 1:31 PM, Geoff Combs wrote:
>> Phil
>> We have had a couple people over the years install the overhead console after
the plane was completed. It is possible
>> Just awkward because you are working upside down. One person said if was very
easy. Never heard from the other
>> FWIW
>> Geoff
>> Geoff Combs
>> Aerosport Modeling & Design
>> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
>> Canal, Winchester, Ohio 43110
>> 614-834-5227
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Phillip Perry
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 29, 2017 11:55 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Overhead Air Retro Fit
>> We are thinking about installing the overhead air panel on an existing RV-10
here on the field. Has anyone retrofitted the panel on an flying airframe?
>> I installed mine when my cabin top was off. But I'm curious what your experience
was on the retro fit and issues you encountered?
>> Phil
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Air Retro Fit |
In my case, it was to use 5 minute epoxy to fill big voids, sand smooth (600 grit),
scuff the whole thing with grey scotchbrite, then shoot two coats of finish.
> On Nov 30, 2017, at 3:51 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
>
> Hes wanting a clear coat over the carbon fiber finish. Whats the process to
finish off the carbon surface to get that nice finish?
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 30, 2017, at 1:55 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> It may be more do-able if you purchase an inverted fuel
>> and oil system for your RV-10. That way you can
>> get a helper or two and do it in-flight. If you can
>> hold it inverted long enough for the quick set
>> epoxy, it wouldn't be such a tough job.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 11/30/2017 1:31 PM, Geoff Combs wrote:
>>> Phil
>>> We have had a couple people over the years install the overhead console after
the plane was completed. It is possible
>>> Just awkward because you are working upside down. One person said if was very
easy. Never heard from the other
>>> FWIW
>>> Geoff
>>> Geoff Combs
>>> Aerosport Modeling & Design
>>> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
>>> Canal, Winchester, Ohio 43110
>>> 614-834-5227
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Phillip Perry
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 29, 2017 11:55 AM
>>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Overhead Air Retro Fit
>>> We are thinking about installing the overhead air panel on an existing RV-10
here on the field. Has anyone retrofitted the panel on an flying airframe?
>>> I installed mine when my cabin top was off. But I'm curious what your experience
was on the retro fit and issues you encountered?
>>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Slick magneto maintenance |
Hi everyone.
When I got my Lycoming IO-540, the Slick magnetos it came with (66LR37SCNN and
66LP-0SCNN) were already bolted on, timing set, etc., so I've been treating them
as something of a black box that I haven't wanted to fiddle with as they work
well. But that's hardly the right attitude to have for an experimental aircraft
:-) In particular, from what I understand, the magneto breaker points should
be checked periodically (perhaps more should be inspected too), as well
as engine timing, etc. And precious little (ie: no) documentation came with them.
Is there a document or information somewhere that describes exactly how to do this?
Hopefully some (or most) can be done without actually removing the magnetos
themselves. Though eventually, I know they're going to have to be pulled,
and when that happens I'd rather have in my pocket the right way to put them
back.
Thanks!
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick magneto maintenance |
https://www.amazon.com/Magneto-Ignition-System-John-Schwaner/dp/B0006P6ZLW
This book can be hard to find, but it appears that Amazon has hard copies.
There is also an electronic version on google play.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Dan Charrois
Sent: Tuesday, December 5, 2017 1:23:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick magneto maintenance
Hi everyone.
When I got my Lycoming IO-540, the Slick magnetos it came with (66LR37SCNN
and 66LP-0SCNN) were already bolted on, timing set, etc., so I've been trea
ting them as something of a black box that I haven't wanted to fiddle with
as they work well. But that's hardly the right attitude to have for an exp
erimental aircraft :-) In particular, from what I understand, the magneto
breaker points should be checked periodically (perhaps more should be inspe
cted too), as well as engine timing, etc. And precious little (ie: no) doc
umentation came with them.
Is there a document or information somewhere that describes exactly how to
do this? Hopefully some (or most) can be done without actually removing th
e magnetos themselves. Though eventually, I know they're going to have to
be pulled, and when that happens I'd rather have in my pocket the right way
to put them back.
Thanks!
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick magneto maintenance |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
For what it is worth, common practice for Slicks has been to have a
competent magneto shop do an inspect and repair as necessary at 500
hours, and to buy new mags at 1000 hours. Main reason is cost of by the
book overhaul can exceed price of new. Typically the 500 hour will
replace points and maybe a few other items, and the mags will be
reliable for the 2nd 500 hours. There are some service bulletins that
call for 500 hour inspection, which you don't have to do, but it is
generally a good idea, and is required on some certified engines used in
commercial operations.
On 12/4/2017 11:23 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> When I got my Lycoming IO-540, the Slick magnetos it came with (66LR37SCNN and
66LP-0SCNN) were already bolted on, timing set, etc., so I've been treating
them as something of a black box that I haven't wanted to fiddle with as they
work well. But that's hardly the right attitude to have for an experimental aircraft
:-) In particular, from what I understand, the magneto breaker points
should be checked periodically (perhaps more should be inspected too), as well
as engine timing, etc. And precious little (ie: no) documentation came with
them.
>
> Is there a document or information somewhere that describes exactly how to do
this? Hopefully some (or most) can be done without actually removing the magnetos
themselves. Though eventually, I know they're going to have to be pulled,
and when that happens I'd rather have in my pocket the right way to put them
back.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick magneto maintenance |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I don't know if you just meant physical copies rather than hard
cover....I don't think I have ever seen it in anything but paperback.
I have a copy. It is informative and useful, but not exactly a
maintenance or overhaul manual.
Kelly
Unfortunately when Sacramento Skyranch closed its business, John
Schwaner's publishing of the magneto book, engine book and Mechanics
Toolbox CD seemed to also disappear. I have and use all three.
On 12/5/2017 2:43 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> https://www.amazon.com/Magneto-Ignition-System-John-Schwaner/dp/B0006P6ZLW
>
> This book can be hard to find, but it appears that Amazon has hard
> copies. There is also an electronic version on google play.
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> on behalf of Dan Charrois
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 5, 2017 1:23:20 AM
> *To:* RV10-List Digest Server
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Slick magneto maintenance
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> When I got my Lycoming IO-540, the Slick magnetos it came with
> (66LR37SCNN and 66LP-0SCNN) were already bolted on, timing set, etc., so
> I've been treating them as something of a black box that I haven't
> wanted to fiddle with as they work well. But that's hardly the right
> attitude to have for an experimental aircraft :-) In particular, from
> what I understand, the magneto breaker points should be checked
> periodically (perhaps more should be inspected too), as well as engine
> timing, etc. And precious little (ie: no) documentation came with them.
>
> Is there a document or information somewhere that describes exactly how
> to do this? Hopefully some (or most) can be done without actually
> removing the magnetos themselves. Though eventually, I know they're
> going to have to be pulled, and when that happens I'd rather have in my
> pocket the right way to put them back.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
> ==========
> Email Forum -
> -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> ums.matronics.com
> ==========
> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> matronics.com
> ==========
> p; - List Contribution Web Site -
> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenard Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick magneto maintenance |
Tim did an excellent writeup on mag timing based on the Sac Skyranch instruc
tions, adding his comments explaining it further.
Here=99s a link:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Mag_Timing/tims_slick_timing_info.htm
l
Lenny
> On Dec 5, 2017, at 1:23 AM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> When I got my Lycoming IO-540, the Slick magnetos it came with (66LR37SCNN
and 66LP-0SCNN) were already bolted on, timing set, etc., so I've been trea
ting them as something of a black box that I haven't wanted to fiddle with a
s they work well. But that's hardly the right attitude to have for an exper
imental aircraft :-) In particular, from what I understand, the magneto bre
aker points should be checked periodically (perhaps more should be inspected
too), as well as engine timing, etc. And precious little (ie: no) document
ation came with them.
>
> Is there a document or information somewhere that describes exactly how to
do this? Hopefully some (or most) can be done without actually removing th
e magnetos themselves. Though eventually, I know they're going to have to b
e pulled, and when that happens I'd rather have in my pocket the right way t
o put them back.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slick magneto maintenance |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Super, thanks a million!
I tried a whole pile of google hits and they all either wanted me to
sign up for something or they were fishy.
I skimmed this. I found it funny that the whole revision
from D to E was just to change the company name from Unison to
Champion. So if you have D, you're pretty close to F.
Tim
On 12/05/2017 11:21 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Found it here:
>
> http://veteranflyg.se/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Slick-4300_6300-Overhaul-Manual-L-1363F.pdf
>
> Lenny
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help Keep Airport Courtesy Cars Running |
| From: | "gbrasch" <airportcars101(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks to those of you who donated this past month and year to help keep Airport
Courtesy Cars website up and running. Your names are posted on the donor page.
This month ACCs will transform to a fully web based platform that will work on
any device, bug and permission free. Just bookmark the website on your home screen.
Continued donations are greatly appreciated, along with new listings or corrections.
See you next November. Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Owner, "Airport Courtesy Cars" Website www.airportcourtesycars.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476169#476169
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Battery charger/minder/tender |
I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the
Walmart one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my
Odyssey PC-925 battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A
model any longer. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a
suitable replacement? Thanks.
Ed Godfrey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
I have since switched to the BatteryMinder Odyssey specific charger.
http://www.batteryminders.com/batteryminder-model-128cec1-aa-s3-12v-8-amp-ha
wker-odyssey-gill-lt-7000-series-aviation-battery-charger-maintainer-desulfa
tor/
I wanted to make sure to use a real recommended odyssey charger.
I'm sure the other ones can do the job. I just felt better with this one kno
wing it was actually made for that type of battery, and it would be set to t
he right mode automatically if the power went out and came back on.
Tim
> On Dec 6, 2017, at 9:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
>
> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the Walma
rt one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my Odyssey PC
-925 battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A model any long
er. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a suitable replacem
ent? Thanks.
>
> Ed Godfrey
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do
not need a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery
whenever it has been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM
switch will do...as long as you only charge things when you are present.
AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was no
leakage of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
or
https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
There are several unnecessary risks.
On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the
> Walmart one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my
> Odyssey PC-925 battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A
> model any longer. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a
> suitable replacement? Thanks.
>
> Ed Godfrey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
I have been using a Battery Minder for Odyssey batteries for years and, based on
several articles in Consumer Aviation and Light Plane Mechanic, I leave mine
plugged in all the time. These chargers are designed to stay connected all the
time and have extended the life of my Odysseys by years - plus I always have
a fully charged (deep cycle charge) battery when I fly.
I used to leave a Battery Tender on them, but switched based on the articles above.
grumpy
N184JM
> On Dec 6, 2017, at 9:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do not need
a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery whenever it has
been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM switch will do...as long
as you only charge things when you are present.
> AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was no leakage
of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
> If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
> or
> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
> Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
> Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
> There are several unnecessary risks.
>
>
>
> On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the Walmart
one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my Odyssey PC-925
battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A model any longer. Does
anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a suitable replacement? Thanks.
>> Ed Godfrey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I hear the claims, I see no data to support the claims, just anecdotes.
How would one know if you have extended the life of the battery? I read
the same publications. While the device made some sense for wet acid
batteries that will self discharge fairly rapidly, especially in hot
weather; I've not seen any hard data that they do anything meaningful
for AGM batteries. I'm close to 3 years on my Odyssey right now. That is
the average life of wet acid batteries in Aridzona, give or take 6
months. My Odyssey is going strong without a BatteryMinder.
The self discharge rate is one tenth that of wet acid for starters.
Then there is the issue of fire safety. What protects that charger from
catching on fire if an internal component fails. I'm sure the battery
minder is well built, however there is a lot of evidence that battery
chargers have been the cause of fires when something in the charger
failed or overheated.
I also note their operating temperature range is only +33 to 130
degrees. Both those temps are easily exceeded here in Aridzona.
I don't see BatteryMinder offering any warranty coverage against
resultant damage if it fails while unattended.
They only warrant to repair the unit for 5 years, nothing more.
I see 90% marketing hype and 10% useful technology. Another way to
reduce your budget for avgas.
JMHO having lived with wet acid batteries for 30 years, 25 of which were
on ramp with no power available and temps down to -60.
On 12/7/2017 5:24 AM, John Miller wrote:
>
> I have been using a Battery Minder for Odyssey batteries for years and, based
on several articles in Consumer Aviation and Light Plane Mechanic, I leave mine
plugged in all the time. These chargers are designed to stay connected all
the time and have extended the life of my Odysseys by years - plus I always have
a fully charged (deep cycle charge) battery when I fly.
>
> I used to leave a Battery Tender on them, but switched based on the articles
above.
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Battery charger/minder/tender |
Just to add to the discussion. I have used a battery tender on and off. If I
power the airplane on the ground, I put it on and leave it on until the next time
I am at the airport. My 925 is over 10 years old, I have been flying 9 years
and 8 months. Battery still going strong. I had it tested two years ago
and it tested great. I may test it again this cycle, it is getting old.
I have a backup 680 in the airplane, so it is not as critical to me. I can operate
off the 680 if need be.
So, my experience has been great with the 925. I would say I have had it on the
tender 25% of the time. But, I do not think I have ever let the battery sit
discharged.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2017 5:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery charger/minder/tender
I have been using a Battery Minder for Odyssey batteries for years and, based on
several articles in Consumer Aviation and Light Plane Mechanic, I leave mine
plugged in all the time. These chargers are designed to stay connected all the
time and have extended the life of my Odysseys by years - plus I always have
a fully charged (deep cycle charge) battery when I fly.
I used to leave a Battery Tender on them, but switched based on the articles above.
grumpy
N184JM
> On Dec 6, 2017, at 9:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do not need
a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery whenever it has
been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM switch will do...as long
as you only charge things when you are present.
> AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was no leakage
of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
> If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
> or
> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
> Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
> Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
> There are several unnecessary risks.
>
>
>
> On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the Walmart
one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my Odyssey PC-925
battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A model any longer. Does
anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a suitable replacement? Thanks.
>> Ed Godfrey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
Similar to Rene', I don't generally use mine all time time, but if I
have been using power on the ground, like when I do database updates
and things like that, I will plug it in. Sometimes I do before a long
trip as well. I probably use mine a dozen times a year.
(The BatteryMinder) Prior to reading Aviation Consumer I was
using that Schumacher charger. The chargers that Kelly
linked to I believe are probably built by Schumacher, because they
look just like my original 2500. Really I think the difference
in some that are odyssey specific vs a cheaper charger that
has an AGM option, is that the Odyssey ones will only charge
at AGM levels. I didn't want to lose power and have the charger
reset its settings. My schumachers default to lead acid settings.
The charge curve on an Odyssey specific charger would probably
be more in tune with what Odyssey recommends, also. To me, if
a product is $125, or $1750, it's really doesn't matter...once
you reach a certain threshold I just figure you may as well
spend the money on one that will do a good job. I don't know
why the Minders are $239-ish now...I think I paid more like $170.
Kelly's point is valid though. If you don't have any load on
the battery (i.e. no parasitics) there's no reason that the
Odyssey will self discharge fast enough to worry about it.
If you aren't going to fly for a year, just go and charge
it maybe before you fly.
Also, I know my alternator doesn't put out a high enough voltage
(14.5-7?) to charge the Odyssey to 100%, so I do like to hook
it up a couple times in the winter and after doing database
updates. I leave it plugged in a day or three until I come back
to the hangar. Other than that, I don't leave it plugged
in all the time.
I still change my battery out within 5 years. I could
test it and not swap it, but I generally have found a use
for the battery anyway. Last time I needed one for a
tug, so I used that opportunity to buy a new one for
the plane. I'm probably due for one next year, if I want
to stay on a 5-6 year plan.
Tim
On 12/7/2017 9:22 AM, Rene wrote:
>
> Just to add to the discussion. I have used a battery tender on and off. If
I power the airplane on the ground, I put it on and leave it on until the next
time I am at the airport. My 925 is over 10 years old, I have been flying 9
years and 8 months. Battery still going strong. I had it tested two years ago
and it tested great. I may test it again this cycle, it is getting old.
>
> I have a backup 680 in the airplane, so it is not as critical to me. I can operate
off the 680 if need be.
>
> So, my experience has been great with the 925. I would say I have had it on
the tender 25% of the time. But, I do not think I have ever let the battery sit
discharged.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Miller
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2017 5:24 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery charger/minder/tender
>
>
> I have been using a Battery Minder for Odyssey batteries for years and, based
on several articles in Consumer Aviation and Light Plane Mechanic, I leave mine
plugged in all the time. These chargers are designed to stay connected all
the time and have extended the life of my Odysseys by years - plus I always have
a fully charged (deep cycle charge) battery when I fly.
>
> I used to leave a Battery Tender on them, but switched based on the articles
above.
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Rear seats seatbacks |
Guys
As you know, the rear seats seat backs have reinforcement angles in all 4 ed
ges, 2 vertically (thicker) and 2 horizontally (thinner), and it is clear th
at these 4 angles are the seat backs structure.
But in the upper horizontal edge, the corrugated aluminium sheet also has a t
ab that goes backwards (pointing to the baggage compartment), with a tip sli
ghtly bend, and this tab goes over the upper angle.
I don=99t understand what is this tab for.
The problem is that I am now beginning to upholster the seat backs, and it l
ooks convenient to eliminate this tab.
Does anybody know what is this tab for?
Is there any problem to eliminate this tab?
Thanks
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seats seatbacks |
A darned good question I've had since i built my -6A twenty years ago.
It's done the exact same way.
My hunch is it's to finish the edge which would otherwise be wavy between
the rivets, and to add a tiny bit of shear web in addition to the angle
stock, to make it less flimsy. I bet it's a complete non-issue, for the
loads the seat backs see in use.
On Fri, Dec 8, 2017 at 7:40 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
> Guys
>
> As you know, the rear seats seat backs have reinforcement angles in all 4
> edges, 2 vertically (thicker) and 2 horizontally (thinner), and it is cle
ar
> that these 4 angles are the seat backs structure.
>
> But in the upper horizontal edge, the corrugated aluminium sheet also has
> a tab that goes backwards (pointing to the baggage compartment), with a t
ip
> slightly bend, and this tab goes over the upper angle.
> I don=99t understand what is this tab for.
>
>
> The problem is that I am now beginning to upholster the seat backs, and i
t
> looks convenient to eliminate this tab.
>
> Does anybody know what is this tab for?
> Is there any problem to eliminate this tab?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear seats seatbacks |
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
Some of the after market seat makers use that angled overhang to secure the seat
cover, a flap of material goes over the top and is usually secured underneath
by self adhesive valcro. Gives a nice finished look to the seat back cause it
carries the fabric or whatever right over the back and out of sight. Also on
the RV6 and maybe others there was a strip the slot would fit into and stop the
seat backs flopping forward, most builders ( that I know) not saying its the
right thing to do, didnt fit that strip cause sometimes its handy to be able
to pull the seat back forward a bit to gain access to the baggage compartment.
Probably the seat back design has continued cause its just a standard part
interchangable through the models . Cheers from Western Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476265#476265
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heavy duty door struts |
| From: | "amekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Looking for advice on heavy door struts for an upholstered door
The normal vans struts dont hold it up
Alan
N668g
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476283#476283
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Heavy duty door struts |
I have the heavy duty struts purchased through Van's. Since I've purchased mine,
there are places you can purchase them for less cost. However, since I already
had mine, I've kept up with those places.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of amekler
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 5:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heavy duty door struts
Looking for advice on heavy door struts for an upholstered door The normal vans
struts dont hold it up Alan N668g
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476283#476283
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty door struts |
Thanks
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 10, 2017, at 5:52 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I have the heavy duty struts purchased through Van's. Since I've purchased mine,
there are places you can purchase them for less cost. However, since I already
had mine, I've kept up with those places.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of amekler
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 5:40 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Heavy duty door struts
>
>
> Looking for advice on heavy door struts for an upholstered door The normal vans
struts dont hold it up Alan N668g
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476283#476283
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty door struts |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
You wrote 8/1/16 :I replaced originals with Lift-o-Mat 2218LP made by
Stabiles 2 years ago and have been very happy with them.
Alan
Further back in archives Nov.24, 2015 part of a lengthy thread:
I recently bought replacement struts from Bansbach as well. The
original Vans struts still worked but one door started coming down if
the wind hit it wrong. I have a flush latch, aftermarket center cam,
lock, upholstery, etc - not light.
On 3/9/15 I purchased (2) A1A1F50-100-287/600N 10017y1 struts for
$51.89 plus $19.27 S&H.
They installed easily (i.e. throw seemed to exactly fit what was needed
- no compression required.
They now work just right in all respects.
Just another data point.
Bill "on a TG family visitation mission" Watson
On 12/10/2017 5:03 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> Thanks
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 10, 2017, at 5:52 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have the heavy duty struts purchased through Van's. Since I've purchased
mine, there are places you can purchase them for less cost. However, since I
already had mine, I've kept up with those places.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of amekler
>> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 5:40 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Heavy duty door struts
>>
>>
>> Looking for advice on heavy door struts for an upholstered door The normal vans
struts dont hold it up Alan N668g
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476283#476283
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seats seatbacks |
Bill
In my -9A, the seats backs have a similar tab, also with a bend tip, but tha
t tab has a clear function, which is to fit in a female slit and hold the se
at back.
But in the -10 there is no slit where this tab goes in, i. e, the tab is fre
e in the air, so I don=99t see any mechanical or structural mission fo
r it.
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 09/12/2017, =C3-s 01:32, Bill Boyd escreveu:
> A darned good question I've had since i built my -6A twenty years ago. It
's done the exact same way.
>
> My hunch is it's to finish the edge which would otherwise be wavy between t
he rivets, and to add a tiny bit of shear web in addition to the angle stock
, to make it less flimsy. I bet it's a complete non-issue, for the loads th
e seat backs see in use.
>
>> On Fri, Dec 8, 2017 at 7:40 PM, Carlos Trigo wrot
e:
>> Guys
>>
>> As you know, the rear seats seat backs have reinforcement angles in all 4
edges, 2 vertically (thicker) and 2 horizontally (thinner), and it is clear
that these 4 angles are the seat backs structure.
>>
>> But in the upper horizontal edge, the corrugated aluminium sheet also has
a tab that goes backwards (pointing to the baggage compartment), with a tip
slightly bend, and this tab goes over the upper angle.
>> I don=99t understand what is this tab for.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The problem is that I am now beginning to upholster the seat backs, and i
t looks convenient to eliminate this tab.
>>
>> Does anybody know what is this tab for?
>> Is there any problem to eliminate this tab?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Carlos
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seats seatbacks |
Thank you Greg (in Western Australia)
for your explanations
I agree with your last assumption (that its probably a lazy continued design from
the 2-seat models).
But to secure the seat cover, it would suffice the upper structural angle, it would
not be necessary this thin aluminium sheet tab... I would say
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 09/12/2017, s 09:50, Greg McFarlane escreveu:
>
> Some of the after market seat makers use that angled overhang to secure the seat
cover, a flap of material goes over the top and is usually secured underneath
by self adhesive valcro. Gives a nice finished look to the seat back cause
it carries the fabric or whatever right over the back and out of sight. Also
on the RV6 and maybe others there was a strip the slot would fit into and stop
the seat backs flopping forward, most builders ( that I know) not saying its
the right thing to do, didnt fit that strip cause sometimes its handy to be able
to pull the seat back forward a bit to gain access to the baggage compartment.
Probably the seat back design has continued cause its just a standard part
interchangable through the models . Cheers from Western Australia
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476265#476265
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy duty door struts |
Kelly,
Yes I couldnt find what I used
I have a friend who just bought a 10 and it is a heavy door
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 10, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> You wrote 8/1/16 :I replaced originals with Lift-o-Mat 2218LP made by Stabiles
2 years ago and have been very happy with them.
>
> Alan
>
> Further back in archives Nov.24, 2015 part of a lengthy thread:
> I recently bought replacement struts from Bansbach as well. The original Vans
struts still worked but one door started coming down if the wind hit it wrong.
I have a flush latch, aftermarket center cam, lock, upholstery, etc - not
light.
>
> On 3/9/15 I purchased (2) A1A1F50-100-287/600N 10017y1 struts for $51.89 plus
$19.27 S&H.
>
> They installed easily (i.e. throw seemed to exactly fit what was needed - no
compression required.
>
> They now work just right in all respects.
>
> Just another data point.
>
> Bill "on a TG family visitation mission" Watson
>
>> On 12/10/2017 5:03 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>> Thanks
>> Alan
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> On Dec 10, 2017, at 5:52 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have the heavy duty struts purchased through Van's. Since I've purchased
mine, there are places you can purchase them for less cost. However, since I
already had mine, I've kept up with those places.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of amekler
>>> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 5:40 AM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Heavy duty door struts
>>>
>>>
>>> Looking for advice on heavy door struts for an upholstered door The normal
vans struts dont hold it up Alan N668g
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476283#476283
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seats seatbacks |
Carlos, I've never inspected a -9 that closely, but in the -6 models, the
tab that fits into either of a pair of slots on the seat back cross-brace
is attached to the seat back by hinge material several inches below the top
of the seat, and is used to set the seat back recline angle. The fold at
the top of the seat back serves no apparent purpose. Velcro could be
attached to the angle stock about as readily as to the bent flange we're
talking about. And if you sew an inverted pocket into the top of the seat
back cushion, there'd be no need for Velcro attachment to hold it.
I'd say cut it off if you wish. I might very well do the same except I
don't want to complicate life for Abby or whoever supplies my upholstery
one day.
On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 7:25 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote
:
> Bill
>
> In my -9A, the seats backs have a similar tab, also with a bend tip, but
> that tab has a clear function, which is to fit in a female slit and hold
> the seat back.
> But in the -10 there is no slit where this tab goes in, i. e, the tab is
> free in the air, so I don=99t see any mechanical or structural miss
ion for it.
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 09/12/2017, =C3-s 01:32, Bill Boyd escreve
u:
>
> A darned good question I've had since i built my -6A twenty years ago.
> It's done the exact same way.
>
> My hunch is it's to finish the edge which would otherwise be wavy between
> the rivets, and to add a tiny bit of shear web in addition to the angle
> stock, to make it less flimsy. I bet it's a complete non-issue, for the
> loads the seat backs see in use.
>
> On Fri, Dec 8, 2017 at 7:40 PM, Carlos Trigo
> wrote:
>
>> Guys
>>
>> As you know, the rear seats seat backs have reinforcement angles in all
4
>> edges, 2 vertically (thicker) and 2 horizontally (thinner), and it is cl
ear
>> that these 4 angles are the seat backs structure.
>>
>> But in the upper horizontal edge, the corrugated aluminium sheet also ha
s
>> a tab that goes backwards (pointing to the baggage compartment), with a
tip
>> slightly bend, and this tab goes over the upper angle.
>> I don=99t understand what is this tab for.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The problem is that I am now beginning to upholster the seat backs, and
>> it looks convenient to eliminate this tab.
>>
>> Does anybody know what is this tab for?
>> Is there any problem to eliminate this tab?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Carlos
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seats seatbacks |
This is what I did
I didn=99t cut the tab, but I bent it around the angle.
Afterwards, I covered it with the leather I glued over the front of the bac
krest
Carlos
No dia 10/12/2017, =C3-s 16:01, Bill Boyd escreveu:
> Carlos, I've never inspected a -9 that closely, but in the -6 models, the t
ab that fits into either of a pair of slots on the seat back cross-brace is a
ttached to the seat back by hinge material several inches below the top of t
he seat, and is used to set the seat back recline angle. The fold at the to
p of the seat back serves no apparent purpose. Velcro could be attached to t
he angle stock about as readily as to the bent flange we're talking about. A
nd if you sew an inverted pocket into the top of the seat back cushion, ther
e'd be no need for Velcro attachment to hold it.
>
> I'd say cut it off if you wish. I might very well do the same except I do
n't want to complicate life for Abby or whoever supplies my upholstery one d
ay.
>
>> On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 7:25 AM, Carlos Trigo wro
te:
>> Bill
>>
>> In my -9A, the seats backs have a similar tab, also with a bend tip, but t
hat tab has a clear function, which is to fit in a female slit and hold the s
eat back.
>> But in the -10 there is no slit where this tab goes in, i. e, the tab is f
ree in the air, so I don=99t see any mechanical or structural mission f
or it.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>> No dia 09/12/2017, =C3-s 01:32, Bill Boyd escreve
u:
>>
>>> A darned good question I've had since i built my -6A twenty years ago. I
t's done the exact same way.
>>>
>>> My hunch is it's to finish the edge which would otherwise be wavy betwee
n the rivets, and to add a tiny bit of shear web in addition to the angle st
ock, to make it less flimsy. I bet it's a complete non-issue, for the loads
the seat backs see in use.
>>>
>>>> On Fri, Dec 8, 2017 at 7:40 PM, Carlos Trigo wr
ote:
>>>> Guys
>>>>
>>>> As you know, the rear seats seat backs have reinforcement angles in all
4 edges, 2 vertically (thicker) and 2 horizontally (thinner), and it is cle
ar that these 4 angles are the seat backs structure.
>>>>
>>>> But in the upper horizontal edge, the corrugated aluminium sheet also h
as a tab that goes backwards (pointing to the baggage compartment), with a t
ip slightly bend, and this tab goes over the upper angle.
>>>> I don=99t understand what is this tab for.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The problem is that I am now beginning to upholster the seat backs, and
it looks convenient to eliminate this tab.
>>>>
>>>> Does anybody know what is this tab for?
>>>> Is there any problem to eliminate this tab?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Carlos
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Cylinders Question |
I purchased a used Lycoming IO-540-C4B5 narrow deck engine used from a
Piper Aztec that was being parted out for use on my RV-10.
It had 982 hours on it and had chrome cylinders. Early on in my flight
testing I replaced five of the six cylinders with new cylinders.
So now I have five chrome cylinders in the hanger and am wondering what to
do with them. I think they may have value for being overhauled? Any ideas
on what or where I should look for getting them out of the hanger?
On a separate note, I also have a set of the larger hole engine mounts for
this engine as well. Don't need them at this point either. What to do
with them?
Jim Combs
N312F - 1000+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Cylinders Question |
With a little ingenuity you could make lamps out of them.
Chromed cylinders had enough hours of operation to not meet standard
dimensions. Then they were chromed back to standard.
So they have several thousand hours on them, and the head and cylinder have
been demated at least once. While this was standard practice 30 years ago,
it has been at least 20 years since chroming was common, especially after
Superior and ECI got PMA for new cylinders, which forced Lycoming to
compete on price.
I would not be interested in a chrome cylinder, unless I needed it to ferry
a broken engine from Timbuckerootwo to where parts were available.
A friend had chrome cylinders on IO-360 in RV-8 that the chrome started
flaking off, and CHT went very quickly to 500. His 50 hour since overhaul
engine is getting a fresh teardown.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 11:50 AM, Jim Combs wrote:
> I purchased a used Lycoming IO-540-C4B5 narrow deck engine used from a
> Piper Aztec that was being parted out for use on my RV-10.
>
> It had 982 hours on it and had chrome cylinders. Early on in my flight
> testing I replaced five of the six cylinders with new cylinders.
>
> So now I have five chrome cylinders in the hanger and am wondering what to
> do with them. I think they may have value for being overhauled? Any ideas
> on what or where I should look for getting them out of the hanger?
>
> On a separate note, I also have a set of the larger hole engine mounts for
> this engine as well. Don't need them at this point either. What to do
> with them?
>
> Jim Combs
> N312F - 1000+ hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Matco Brake Pad OEM |
Does anyone know the OEM manufacturer of the Matco brakes pads used on thei
r RV-10 wheels?
I'm trying to locate another source of the pads. The ones I got from Matco
are wearing way too quickly. I may give Rapco a call and see if they hav
e an offering.
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Pad OEM |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I presume the pads were conditioned? Extremely light use may result in a need to
repeat the procedure.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476318#476318
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Pad OEM |
Yes they were conditioned per the instructions.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Bob Turner
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 4:43:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Matco Brake Pad OEM
I presume the pads were =98conditioned=99? Extremely light use
may result in a need to repeat the procedure.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476318#476318
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Source - Heavy duty gas struts |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Here is what I used.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476320#476320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I insulated under my front floor pans using fire break foam. I am considering doing
the same think under the rear floor pans for insulation / sound proofing
purposes.
I am wondering what others have done in this spot. Is there any real benefit to
insulating / soundproofing here?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476321#476321
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Pad OEM |
Why do you think that is, Bob? I plan on upgrading to the Matco
wheel/brake assy's from the get-go for more stopping power here on the
2100' grass strip. Berringers seem too pricey and I'm not sure how I feel
about the tubelessness and possible repairs in the field. Concerned to
hear the pad wear is not up to expectations.
On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 3:32 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> Does anyone know the OEM manufacturer of the Matco brakes pads used on
> their RV-10 wheels?
>
>
> I=99m trying to locate another source of the pads. The ones I got
from
> Matco are wearing way too quickly. I may give Rapco a call and see if
> they have an offering.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear floor pans |
No measured benefit, but I did it because I had the foam.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 3:36 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I insulated under my front floor pans using fire break foam. I am
> considering doing the same think under the rear floor pans for insulation /
> sound proofing purposes.
>
> I am wondering what others have done in this spot. Is there any real
> benefit to insulating / soundproofing here?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476321#476321
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Pad OEM |
Unless that grass is really dry, you aren't going to get much braking on
it, regardless of which brakes you have.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 6:44 PM, Bill Boyd wrote:
> Why do you think that is, Bob? I plan on upgrading to the Matco
> wheel/brake assy's from the get-go for more stopping power here on the
> 2100' grass strip. Berringers seem too pricey and I'm not sure how I fee
l
> about the tubelessness and possible repairs in the field. Concerned to
> hear the pad wear is not up to expectations.
>
> On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 3:32 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know the OEM manufacturer of the Matco brakes pads used on
>> their RV-10 wheels?
>>
>>
>>
>> I=99m trying to locate another source of the pads. The ones I got
from
>> Matco are wearing way too quickly. I may give Rapco a call and see if
>> they have an offering.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brake Pad OEM |
Ill provide more feedback after I talk with Matco tomorrow.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Bill Boyd
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 8:44:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco Brake Pad OEM
Why do you think that is, Bob? I plan on upgrading to the Matco wheel/brak
e assy's from the get-go for more stopping power here on the 2100' grass st
rip. Berringers seem too pricey and I'm not sure how I feel about the tube
lessness and possible repairs in the field. Concerned to hear the pad wear
is not up to expectations.
On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 3:32 PM, Bob Leffler > wrote:
Does anyone know the OEM manufacturer of the Matco brakes pads used on thei
r RV-10 wheels?
I=92m trying to locate another source of the pads. The ones I got from Mat
co are wearing way too quickly. I may give Rapco a call and see if they h
ave an offering.
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear floor pans |
| From: | "Gordon Anderson" <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
Hi Les, Kelly, it has been suggested that using foam under the front floor pans
can help reduce external noise caused by exhaust resonating on the underside
of the fuselage. I bet no-one has done a before/after test to prove it though
:-)
Good choice to use fireproof foam - do you have specifics?
Gordon
41015 Switzerland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476344#476344
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear floor pans |
I don't believe there is such a thing as fireproof foam. All the test
results I have seen of material designed for the firewall have failed the
official FAA test, 2000 degrees for a time I don't remember. Either smoke,
fall apart or transfer too much heat.
I don't think you need any better than what is needed for interior not
against the firewall. Aircraft Spruce sells such a foam, although it
doesn't pass with adhesive backing, you can get it without the adhesive,
which isn't needed for the floor. The exhaust pipes are angled down and
most of the exhaust stays off the bottom of fuselage.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 12:55 PM, Gordon Anderson
wrote:
>
> Hi Les, Kelly, it has been suggested that using foam under the front floor
> pans can help reduce external noise caused by exhaust resonating on the
> underside of the fuselage. I bet no-one has done a before/after test to
> prove it though :-)
> Good choice to use fireproof foam - do you have specifics?
>
> Gordon
> 41015 Switzerland
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476344#476344
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear floor pans |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Gordon
I used Abesco FP200 fire rated foam.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476352#476352
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear floor pans |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
kearney wrote:
> Hi Gordon
>
> I used Abesco FP200 fire rated foam.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
So did I....
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476354#476354
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SureFly Electronic Ignition |
| From: | "SureFly" <jason(at)surefly.aero> |
We have 6 Cylinder Ignition units available. Give your 10 something nice for Christmas.
:D 817-373-5161
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476379#476379
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Having ruined a number of 680s during my 10 year odyssey, I've come to
the same conclusions as Kelly has below. I'm a bit late to this
discussion but here one thing I have empirical evidence for;
undercharging these batteries will slowly kill them, slowly but inevitably.
Three things I KNOW will do this is
1. Inadequate voltage in aircraft charging circuit (read the spec
sheet and obey it). This seems straight forward but do check that
the voltage you are displaying is the voltage the battery sees. I
was measuring the voltage for my two charging circuits in two
different places (EIS and EFIS). Turned out one was accurate and
one was not.
2. Old battery tenders/minders not intended for AGM batteries.
During my build, I had a few left over from my gel cell days in
gliders. They will not adequately charge a discharged 680 but it
takes about 1.2 years to discover that. I'm not sure, but using an
old one to just maintain is worse than throwing the old thing away.
If there are tenders/minders on the market now that are unsuitable
for AGM batteries, I wouldn't know, but see Kelly's points below -
you just don't need one, you need an AGM capable charger.
3. Parasitic loads when not in use. My load was fully documented; the
clocks in my (3) GRT EFISs (this has since been eliminated thru an
enlightened SW upgrade). It was a very small load but it was 3X a
small load. I have 2 batteries but the load was connected to only
one, which made diagnosis easier but more expensive. Why is such a
small load in a frequently flown plane such a problem? Didn't
grandpa drive cars with electric clocks? That didn't seem to be a
problem. Well it was occasionally a problem. And with AGMs, a
parasitic load seems to be equivalent to undercharging it; the
battery is sits in a slowly declining state then is undercharged the
next time it gets hit with the starter load. I don't know whether
that is actually the mechnism but I KNOW a parasitic load will
slowly, inevitably, kill a 680 or 2. I guess you could keep it on
an AGM certified minder/tender but I'd suggest hunting down the load
and killing it.
Things will work just fine with any 3 of these conditions for 1-2 years
then they won't. It's a slow death that may mystify you for $awhile$.
I have a boat but 680s make lousy anchors.
Speaking of boats, my little jon boat is parked next to my '10. The
Walmart/Schumacher charger with settings for AGM, Lead and Gel Cell(?)
batteries worked fine until I apparently wore it out charging the lead
acid trolling motor battery every other day. I'm going to separate
chargers as a result.
Regarding 'empirical evidence'; label, log and track your batteries,
especially if you have 2 of the same installed like I do in my Z-14
scheme. That data is the key to figuring out whether you have slow
death problems or not and what might be causing them. Problems are
easily mitigated with a dual batt/alt/bus Z-14 which is good and bad.
It can delay diagnosis of electrical system problems because they aren't
so critical. Which means that you can kill 2 batteries with one problem
before you decide to act.
Bill "I KNOW is shorthand for 'ask me how I know and how much it cost me
to figure it out' " Watson
On 12/6/2017 10:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do
> not need a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery
> whenever it has been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM
> switch will do...as long as you only charge things when you are present.
> AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was no
> leakage of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
> If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
> or
> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
> Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
> Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
> There are several unnecessary risks.
>
>
> On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>
>> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the
>> Walmart one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge
>> my Odyssey PC-925 battery. It seems that they no longer carry the
>> WM-2500A model any longer. Does anyone have any suggestions as to
>> what would be a suitable replacement? Thanks.
>>
>> Ed Godfrey
>>
>>
>>
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Advice on cabin top filler |
I seem to have a situation where the surface of the doors are above the
surface of the cabin top, between the windshield and the doors. I plan
on filling it in, but am wondering which may be the best way to proceed.
Am looking at resin with micro balloons, resin with flox or resin with a
narrow strip of layers of glass cloth. I would appreciate what advice
you can provide. Thanks.
Ed Godfrey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on cabin top filler |
We use resin with micro.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 16, 2017, at 4:57 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>
>
> I seem to have a situation where the surface of the doors are above the surface
of the cabin top, between the windshield and the doors. I plan on filling it
in, but am wondering which may be the best way to proceed. Am looking at resin
with micro balloons, resin with flox or resin with a narrow strip of layers
of glass cloth. I would appreciate what advice you can provide. Thanks.
>
> Ed Godfrey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Jones <d.j.goneflyin(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on cabin top filler |
Hi Jesse,
You have seen my RV-10. My plane has been flying for 10 years and I used the
narrow
Strip of glass cloth and to date there are NO CRACKS.
Take Care and Merry Christmas,
David Jones
N331DJ
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 16, 2017, at 5:20 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
> We use resin with micro.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 16, 2017, at 4:57 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>
>>
>> I seem to have a situation where the surface of the doors are above the surface
of the cabin top, between the windshield and the doors. I plan on filling
it in, but am wondering which may be the best way to proceed. Am looking at resin
with micro balloons, resin with flox or resin with a narrow strip of layers
of glass cloth. I would appreciate what advice you can provide. Thanks.
>>
>> Ed Godfrey
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2017 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
The 2017 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of
weeks ago and it's time that I published this year's List of Contributors (LOC).
It is the people on this list that directly make these Email Lists and Forums
possible! Their generous
Contributions keep the servers and Internet connection up and running!
You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same
time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
And finally, I'm proud to present The 2017 Fund Raiser List of Contributors:
http://www.matronics.com/loc
Thank you again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List & Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course I
reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.
Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I could not tighten
the big nut to the next flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant at the
moment.
Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose gear leg,
which I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at about 130 hours).
Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I have done the
service bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the nose
wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.
Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate cotter
pin position for the pivot nut?
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I have 2 holes in my gear leg to provide for a little more
adjustment precision. No big deal on that.
Are you 100% sure that the shimmy is nosewheel? I really doubt
it is. Almost everyone who has a shimmy, has it in the
mains, although it FEELS like a nosewheel shimmy. I really
don't find much for issue with the nosewheel at all, other
than making sure you have a good breakout force on the
rotation. And, of course, there is that need to take out the
play of the donuts occasionally. I can't remember how many
I have in there, but at least 2.
Tim
On 12/18/2017 08:40 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course
> I reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.
> Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I could not
> tighten the big nut to the next flat, so the amount of pull is
> irrelevant at the moment.
> Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
> Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose gear leg,
> which I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at about 130 hours).
> Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I have done
> the service bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
> I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the
> nose wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.
> Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate
> cotter pin position for the pivot nut?
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
I had the same 1/4 vertical play and found the bushing to be the culprit. A little
bit of play in that bushing easily makes a 1/4 out at the wheel.
Vans sells over sized bushings, so I purchased one and found to was too over sized.
My cousin is a machinist, so be sent me a set of snap gauges and I measured it.
Then we turned the oversized bushing down to match the hole with .002 gap.
Its currently sitting in the center console of my truck so I dont have a report
yet. Hopefully in the next few weeks I can have it installed and see if they
addressed the play.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 18, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course I reviewed
my archives and Tim's website as refresher.
> Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I could not tighten the
big nut to the next flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant at the moment.
> Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
> Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose gear leg, which
I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at about 130 hours).
> Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I have done the service
bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
> I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the nose wheel.
Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.
> Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate cotter pin
position for the pivot nut?
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
Yes, I have suggested that everyone drill a 2nd hole 30 degrees off from t
he first hole.=C2- This will give you the ability to make the correct adj
ustment without leaving it too loose or too tight.Don McDonald1,000 hours n
ow.
mail.com> wrote:
Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course I
reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.Taking the cowling off
and checking things I found that I could not tighten the big nut to the ne
xt flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant at the moment.Has anyone tried
new Belleville washers?Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on
the nose gear leg, which I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at a
bout 130 hours).Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I
have done the service bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the nose
wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.Has anyone drilled
the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate cotter pin position for t
he pivot nut?
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
Thanks Tim. Yes, I had 3 friends observe my taxi in from last flight and
comment on how much the nose wheel was shimmying.
Yes, I have had main gear shimmy in the past. Nose is at lower speed and
higher frequency shimmy.
I'll check with the fish scale, get somewhere around 25-30 lb pull and then
drill new hole.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 7:54 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I have 2 holes in my gear leg to provide for a little more
> adjustment precision. No big deal on that.
>
> Are you 100% sure that the shimmy is nosewheel? I really doubt
> it is. Almost everyone who has a shimmy, has it in the
> mains, although it FEELS like a nosewheel shimmy. I really
> don't find much for issue with the nosewheel at all, other
> than making sure you have a good breakout force on the
> rotation. And, of course, there is that need to take out the
> play of the donuts occasionally. I can't remember how many
> I have in there, but at least 2.
> Tim
>
>
> On 12/18/2017 08:40 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>> Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course
>> I reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.
>> Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I could not
>> tighten the big nut to the next flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant
>> at the moment.
>> Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
>> Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose gear leg,
>> which I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at about 130 hours).
>> Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I have done the
>> service bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
>> I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the
>> nose wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.
>> Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate
>> cotter pin position for the pivot nut?
>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Interesting. This is the first time I can actually remember anyone
actually having the shimmy be nosewheel related. I guess I'd
do a tire balance then. And while you have it on the balancer,
make sure it's still round perhaps.
Tim
On 12/18/2017 09:04 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Thanks Tim. Yes, I had 3 friends observe my taxi in from last flight and
> comment on how much the nose wheel was shimmying.
> Yes, I have had main gear shimmy in the past. Nose is at lower speed and
> higher frequency shimmy.
> I'll check with the fish scale, get somewhere around 25-30 lb pull and
> then drill new hole.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I know nosewheel shimmy is common on the two place RV's as AntiSplat
Aero offers a machining to replace wheel bearings with sealed, precision
bearings, Shaving of tread to ensure tire roundness and then spin balancing.
Obviously our design is a bit different with the donuts.
Will try the obvious things and see if that gets rid of it. I think it
was Les commented that his went away after balancing all three wheels.
Hard to tell how much shimmy might transfer between the gear legs.
On 12/18/2017 8:13 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Interesting. This is the first time I can actually remember anyone
> actually having the shimmy be nosewheel related. I guess I'd
> do a tire balance then. And while you have it on the balancer,
> make sure it's still round perhaps.
> Tim
>
>
>
> On 12/18/2017 09:04 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> Thanks Tim. Yes, I had 3 friends observe my taxi in from last flight
>> and comment on how much the nose wheel was shimmying.
>> Yes, I have had main gear shimmy in the past. Nose is at lower speed
>> and higher frequency shimmy.
>> I'll check with the fish scale, get somewhere around 25-30 lb pull and
>> then drill new hole.
>>
>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
As Kelley noted, I used a motorcycle wheel balanced on all three wheels. It worked
quite well. Of Kate I have noticed that I am getting a shimmy again. WheN
I last had my pants off (wheel!!!) I noticed a lot of crud on the wheels.
I wonder if that has caused an imbalance.
Anyway, I will be doing my annual after Christmas and plan to replace my main tyres
and rebalance everything along with setting nosewheel breakout pressure.
Ill report back after I do this - this will be in lat Jan as I will be away till
then.
Cheers
Les
PS. Merry Christmas to all my RV10 brethren!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476565#476565
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
At around 300 hours I noticed that my nosewheel tire was way out of round. It was
still the crappy AeroClassic tire that came from Vans. It wasnt worn, but it
was deformed. Something to check.
> On Dec 18, 2017, at 11:06 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> I know nosewheel shimmy is common on the two place RV's as AntiSplat Aero offers
a machining to replace wheel bearings with sealed, precision bearings, Shaving
of tread to ensure tire roundness and then spin balancing.
> Obviously our design is a bit different with the donuts.
> Will try the obvious things and see if that gets rid of it. I think it was Les
commented that his went away after balancing all three wheels. Hard to tell
how much shimmy might transfer between the gear legs.
>
> On 12/18/2017 8:13 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>> Interesting. This is the first time I can actually remember anyone
>> actually having the shimmy be nosewheel related. I guess I'd
>> do a tire balance then. And while you have it on the balancer,
>> make sure it's still round perhaps.
>> Tim
>> On 12/18/2017 09:04 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>> Thanks Tim. Yes, I had 3 friends observe my taxi in from last flight and comment
on how much the nose wheel was shimmying.
>>> Yes, I have had main gear shimmy in the past. Nose is at lower speed and higher
frequency shimmy.
>>> I'll check with the fish scale, get somewhere around 25-30 lb pull and then
drill new hole.
>>>
>>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
Les and fellow builders/flyers
I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Warm regards from downunder.
Patrick
> On 19 Dec 2017, at 03:34, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> As Kelley noted, I used a motorcycle wheel balanced on all three wheels. It worked
quite well. Of Kate I have noticed that I am getting a shimmy again. WheN
I last had my pants off (wheel!!!) I noticed a lot of crud on the wheels.
I wonder if that has caused an imbalance.
>
> Anyway, I will be doing my annual after Christmas and plan to replace my main
tyres and rebalance everything along with setting nosewheel breakout pressure.
Ill report back after I do this - this will be in lat Jan as I will be away
till then.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> PS. Merry Christmas to all my RV10 brethren!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476565#476565
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Well, a morning of work yielded front nose fork pull was around 15-18
lbs. Adjusted that up to about 28-29 lbs, and drilled new cotter pin
hole. Shock disk tower needed the second spacer. Installed that. There
still is a little play at the firewall bushings, but the play at the
wheel is noticeably better with the extra spacer. Now to finish putting
it back together and try it out. Still have wheel balancing if needed.
On 12/18/2017 10:04 AM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> As Kelly noted, I used a motorcycle wheel balanced on all three wheels. It worked
quite well. Of Kate I have noticed that I am getting a shimmy again. WheN
I last had my pants off (wheel!!!) I noticed a lot of crud on the wheels.
I wonder if that has caused an imbalance.
>
> Anyway, I will be doing my annual after Christmas and plan to replace my main
tyres and rebalance everything along with setting nosewheel breakout pressure.
Ill report back after I do this - this will be in lat Jan as I will be away
till then.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> PS. Merry Christmas to all my RV10 brethren!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476565#476565
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
I will check mine, but I never got the AeroClassic. I started off with
Desser recaps, as I have had good luck and wear with them.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 11:14 AM, Lenny Iszak
wrote:
>
> At around 300 hours I noticed that my nosewheel tire was way out of round
.
> It was still the crappy AeroClassic tire that came from Van=99s. It
wasn=99t
> worn, but it was deformed. Something to check.
>
>
> > On Dec 18, 2017, at 11:06 AM, Kelly McMullen
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I know nosewheel shimmy is common on the two place RV's as AntiSplat
> Aero offers a machining to replace wheel bearings with sealed, precision
> bearings, Shaving of tread to ensure tire roundness and then spin balanci
ng.
> > Obviously our design is a bit different with the donuts.
> > Will try the obvious things and see if that gets rid of it. I think it
> was Les commented that his went away after balancing all three wheels. Ha
rd
> to tell how much shimmy might transfer between the gear legs.
> >
> > On 12/18/2017 8:13 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> >> Interesting. This is the first time I can actually remember anyone
> >> actually having the shimmy be nosewheel related. I guess I'd
> >> do a tire balance then. And while you have it on the balancer,
> >> make sure it's still round perhaps.
> >> Tim
> >> On 12/18/2017 09:04 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> >>> Thanks Tim. Yes, I had 3 friends observe my taxi in from last flight
> and comment on how much the nose wheel was shimmying.
> >>> Yes, I have had main gear shimmy in the past. Nose is at lower speed
> and higher frequency shimmy.
> >>> I'll check with the fish scale, get somewhere around 25-30 lb pull an
d
> then drill new hole.
> >>>
> >>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How now to get lost .... |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I understand that ELTs have a less than stellar success rate in real world accidents.
That being the case, I am considering the installation of a secondary system
such as a SPIDERTRACKS.
Has anyone had experience with this or a similar locator system?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Merry Christmas
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476583#476583
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How now to get lost .... |
Les,
Is Canada going to invest in ADS-B at all? with sufficient ground stations,
it works very well for getting track of missing aircraft, down to 1-200 ft
if there is enough coverage. We have achieved significantly better coverage
than we have with radar.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 3:10 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I understand that ELTs have a less than stellar success rate in real world
> accidents. That being the case, I am considering the installation of a
> secondary system such as a SPIDERTRACKS.
>
> Has anyone had experience with this or a similar locator system?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Merry Christmas
>
> Les
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476583#476583
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How now to get lost .... |
I'm a big fan of ADS-B.. not only for radar services, but for SAR.
Canada's investment in ADS-B doesn't seem to be likely in the form of ground stations, at least in the near future. Instead, NavCanada is in a joint venture called Aireon to ultimately use ADS-B receivers on satellites to pick up position information anywhere on the globe (http://www.navcanada.ca/en/products-and-services/pages/on-board-operational-initiatives-ads-b.aspx).
If this ever actually happens, it would be great for finding ADS-B equipped planes
that go missing. A pilot wouldn't have to worry about whether their ELT survives
an accident - SAR could just start searching at the last broadcast ADS-B
position and the plane shouldn't be far from there.
In the meantime, web sites like FlightAware help organize amateur ADS-B "feeder
sites" to their data. A friend of mine operates several such sites as a "hobby"
for a very minimal cost. Over time, coverage is getting better and better
as more amateurs throughout the world join on board. Check their current coverage
map at https://flightaware.com/adsb/coverage There's still lots of gaps
in mountainous regions with low population, but it's pretty good in most areas
with more people. And if Canada ever finalizes the details for global coverage
via satellite it will be a game changer.
Though in a perfect world I'd love it if Canada were to follow the US initiative
to provide traffic and weather via ADS-B In, beggars can't be choosers. I've
had ADS-B out on my plane since the beginning (going to need it soon for flights
into US transponder airspace anyway), and I've always been amazed at how
well my flights have been tracked on FlightAware. I also just installed ADS-B
In a week or so ago.. in Canada, until more and more aircraft support ADS-B
out, it's only a partial solution for traffic since I only see ADS-B Out equipped
aircraft. But something is better than nothing, and in the US I should be
able to receive traffic targets for most aircraft in controlled airspace and
free inflight weather to boot... I'm looking forward to a flight I'm hoping to
do to the US in a week or two to test it out further.
Dan
> On 2017-Dec-18, at 7:31 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Les,
> Is Canada going to invest in ADS-B at all? with sufficient ground stations, it
works very well for getting track of missing aircraft, down to 1-200 ft
> if there is enough coverage. We have achieved significantly better coverage than
we have with radar.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 3:10 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I understand that ELTs have a less than stellar success rate in real world accidents.
That being the case, I am considering the installation of a secondary
system such as a SPIDERTRACKS.
>
> Has anyone had experience with this or a similar locator system?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Merry Christmas
>
> Les
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Some assembly required
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476583#476583
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
>
>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
Don
For someone who is still building, and never heard of this, can you tell me w
here is that 2nd hole to be drilled?
Or better, a picture of that
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 18/12/2017, =C3-s 14:56, Don McDonald e
screveu:
> Yes, I have suggested that everyone drill a 2nd hole 30 degrees off from t
he first hole. This will give you the ability to make the correct adjustmen
t without leaving it too loose or too tight.
> Don McDonald
> 1,000 hours now.
>
l.com> wrote:
>
>
> Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course I
reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.
> Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I could not tighte
n the big nut to the next flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant at the m
oment.
> Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
> Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose gear leg, whi
ch I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at about 130 hours).
> Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I have done the s
ervice bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
> I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the nose
wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.
> Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate cotte
r pin position for the pivot nut?
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How now to get lost .... |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Dan
What tech did you use for ADSB In/Out?
I was thinking of using Navworx when the time came but they seem to have gone sideways.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476601#476601
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How now to get lost .... |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I too am a big fan of ADS-B, in spite of the cost.
No, I don't like the ability of anyone to track my tail number, but I
think that could be resolved.
I learned of a crash that occurred near Flagstaff AZ at night, where
ADS-B allowed the controller involved to know within seconds that the
plane track dropped an altitude readout, and the plane was located
within 600 ft of the end of the ADS-B track. It was an IFR departure,
and the plane was seen by ADS-B within a few seconds of liftoff.
Radar coverage in that area only goes down to about 2000 ft AGL and the
plane was never seen on radar. The wreckage was found within a couple
hours because of the good location info. Unfortunately the pilot and
sole occupant had apparently suffered a medical event and did not
survive. Final NTSB report will not come out for another 6 months or so.
I talked to the controller that worked the flight, and he was very
enthusiastic that the better coverage lets him handle traffic much
better than he ever could with just radar.
I have the Dynon 261 out unit and 470 In receiver that is fully
integrated on my Dynon Skyview PFD/MFD.
On 12/19/2017 12:23 AM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> I'm a big fan of ADS-B.. not only for radar services, but for SAR.
>
> Canada's investment in ADS-B doesn't seem to be likely in the form of ground stations, at least in the near future. Instead, NavCanada is in a joint venture called Aireon to ultimately use ADS-B receivers on satellites to pick up position information anywhere on the globe (http://www.navcanada.ca/en/products-and-services/pages/on-board-operational-initiatives-ads-b.aspx).
>
> If this ever actually happens, it would be great for finding ADS-B equipped planes
that go missing. A pilot wouldn't have to worry about whether their ELT
survives an accident - SAR could just start searching at the last broadcast ADS-B
position and the plane shouldn't be far from there.
>
> In the meantime, web sites like FlightAware help organize amateur ADS-B "feeder
sites" to their data. A friend of mine operates several such sites as a "hobby"
for a very minimal cost. Over time, coverage is getting better and better
as more amateurs throughout the world join on board. Check their current coverage
map at https://flightaware.com/adsb/coverage There's still lots of gaps
in mountainous regions with low population, but it's pretty good in most areas
with more people. And if Canada ever finalizes the details for global coverage
via satellite it will be a game changer.
>
> Though in a perfect world I'd love it if Canada were to follow the US initiative
to provide traffic and weather via ADS-B In, beggars can't be choosers. I've
had ADS-B out on my plane since the beginning (going to need it soon for flights
into US transponder airspace anyway), and I've always been amazed at how
well my flights have been tracked on FlightAware. I also just installed ADS-B
In a week or so ago.. in Canada, until more and more aircraft support ADS-B
out, it's only a partial solution for traffic since I only see ADS-B Out equipped
aircraft. But something is better than nothing, and in the US I should
be able to receive traffic targets for most aircraft in controlled airspace and
free inflight weather to boot... I'm looking forward to a flight I'm hoping
to do to the US in a week or two to test it out further.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>> On 2017-Dec-18, at 7:31 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> Les,
>> Is Canada going to invest in ADS-B at all? with sufficient ground stations,
it works very well for getting track of missing aircraft, down to 1-200 ft
>> if there is enough coverage. We have achieved significantly better coverage
than we have with radar.
>>
>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 3:10 PM, kearney wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> I understand that ELTs have a less than stellar success rate in real world accidents.
That being the case, I am considering the installation of a secondary
system such as a SPIDERTRACKS.
>>
>> Has anyone had experience with this or a similar locator system?
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know.
>>
>> Merry Christmas
>>
>> Les
>> C-GCWZ Flying
>> C-GROK Some assembly required
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476583#476583
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
Any of the available holes in the nut. Many are finding that they have to
tighten the nut after the original installation, which caused the original
hole not to be in alignment with the holes on the nut. Just ensure that you
don't get it close to the original hole.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2017 8:31:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: The old nose wheel shimmy issue
Don
For someone who is still building, and never heard of this, can you tell me
where is that 2nd hole to be drilled?
Or better, a picture of that
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 18/12/2017, =E0s 14:56, Don McDonald > escreveu:
Yes, I have suggested that everyone drill a 2nd hole 30 degrees off from th
e first hole. This will give you the ability to make the correct adjustmen
t without leaving it too loose or too tight.
Don McDonald
1,000 hours now.
.com> wrote:
Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course I
reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.
Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I could not tighten
the big nut to the next flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant at the m
oment.
Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose gear leg, whic
h I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at about 130 hours).
Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I have done the s
ervice bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the nose
wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.
Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate cotter
pin position for the pivot nut?
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
There is no right or wrong way to drill one or two extra holes. What I did
yesterday was to tighten the nut to a couple pounds force above
specification (knowing it will decrease), then considered which slots in
the nut would be furthest from the existing cotter pin holes. I did not
want to drill using the same slots the pin was previously, because they
would be only 20-25 degrees off the original holes. So I picked slots that
gave best chance of getting cotter pin in or out without removing the tire,
used the slots as my guide (putting a vertical marker at the back slot to
better aim the drill bit. I did remove the tire to allow drilling the side
toward the tire, to not risk the new hole not being aligned with the slot.
I used my #27 drill bit, but in retrospect I think a brand new #30 would
have been better, and I could have enlarged to #27 if necessary. My main
concern was to not weaken the shaft by having pairs of holes too close to
each other.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Tue, Dec 19, 2017 at 6:31 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote
:
> Don
>
> For someone who is still building, and never heard of this, can you tell
> me where is that 2nd hole to be drilled?
> Or better, a picture of that
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 18/12/2017, =C3-s 14:56, Don McDonald
> escreveu:
>
> Yes, I have suggested that everyone drill a 2nd hole 30 degrees off from
> the first hole. This will give you the ability to make the correct
> adjustment without leaving it too loose or too tight.
> Don McDonald
> 1,000 hours now.
>
> apilot2(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course
I
> reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.
> Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I could not
> tighten the big nut to the next flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant
> at the moment.
> Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
> Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose gear leg,
> which I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at about 130 hours).
> Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I have done the
> service bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
> I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the nos
e
> wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.
> Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate
> cotter pin position for the pivot nut?
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
The first hole will be lined up on one of the spaces on the nut.=C2- Mark
on the tubing where it currently lines up, and mark where it lines up on t
he next space.=C2- Then loosen or tighten the nut half way between those
two marks.=C2- The drill through the near side.=C2- Then drill the far
side from the other side, making sure you're 180 degrees.If you have a punc
h and a center drill, do that first on both sides, then remove the nut and
use the drill to finish.
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Tue, Dec 19, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Carlos Trigo wrot
e: Don
For someone who is still building, and never heard of this, can you tell me
where is that 2nd hole to be drilled?Or better, a picture of that
ThanksCarlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 18/12/2017, =C3-s 14:56, Don McDonald
escreveu:
Yes, I have suggested that everyone drill a 2nd hole 30 degrees off from t
he first hole.=C2- This will give you the ability to make the correct adj
ustment without leaving it too loose or too tight.Don McDonald1,000 hours n
ow.
mail.com> wrote:
Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course I
reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.Taking the cowling off
and checking things I found that I could not tighten the big nut to the ne
xt flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant at the moment.Has anyone tried
new Belleville washers?Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on
the nose gear leg, which I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at a
bout 130 hours).Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I
have done the service bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the nose
wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.Has anyone drilled
the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate cotter pin position for t
he pivot nut?
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How now to get lost .... |
I have Navworx, but you are correct....the company went bye-bye.
I changed my GPS source to my 430 and all is good for me. I think there
will be some "old" units floating around that could be used and I am sure
you could pick them up cheap and continue the experiment.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kearney
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2017 6:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: How now to get lost ....
Hi Dan
What tech did you use for ADSB In/Out?
I was thinking of using Navworx when the time came but they seem to have
gone sideways.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476601#476601
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
30 degrees from the original hole.
wrote:
You assemble that setup and then drill a hole through the threated part of WD-1017
to secure the nut with the cotter pin just drill another one 30 deg to that
one onto the tighter side
On 19.12.2017 14:31, Carlos Trigo wrote:
Don
For someone who is still building, and never heard of this, can you tell me where
is that 2nd hole to be drilled? Or better, a picture of that
Thanks Carlos
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
Ah ok, thank you all
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 19/12/2017, =C3-s 16:43, Don McDonald e
screveu:
> 30 degrees from the original hole.
>
gmx.net> wrote:
>
>
> You assemble that setup and then drill a hole through the threated part of
WD-1017 to secure the nut with the cotter pin just drill another one 30 deg
to that one onto the tighter side
>
>
>
>> On 19.12.2017 14:31, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>> Don
>>
>> For someone who is still building, and never heard of this, can you tell m
e where is that 2nd hole to be drilled?
>> Or better, a picture of that
>>
>> Thanks
>> Carlos
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How now to get lost .... |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
kearney wrote:
> Hi Dan
>
> What tech did you use for ADSB In/Out?
>
> I was thinking of using Navworx when the time came but they seem to have gone
sideways.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
I would have guessed that, based in Canada, your best bet for future coverage in
Canada would be with a 1090 MHz system. No one else in the world seems inclined
to follow the US with a UAT based system.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476615#476615
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How now to get lost .... |
For ADS-B out, It's done by my transponder (Dynon SV-XPNDR-261 which provides ADS-B
out on 1090 ES when connected to an approved GPS like my GTN 650).
For ADS-B In, I've done that with a Stratux (stratux.me), a DIY dual frequency
(1090 & 978 Mhz) receiver that decodes aircraft transmissions as well as FIS-B
and TIS-B broadcasts (though the latter only exists in the US). It's connected
by serial port to my AFS EFIS, and seems to work quite well actually... certainly
a lot better than no traffic at all :-)
Though UAT (978 Mhz) is sufficient in the US, I decided on the 1090 ES transponder
since if anywhere else in the world mandates ADS-B Out, they likely will be
doing it at 1090 Mhz instead of 978. And 1090 is accepted in the US at all
altitudes, and is required in class A (above 18000' MSL).
And yep - as of October 19th, Navworx is no more.
Dan
> On 2017-Dec-19, at 6:55 AM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi Dan
>
> What tech did you use for ADSB In/Out?
>
> I was thinking of using Navworx when the time came but they seem to have gone
sideways.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476601#476601
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fritzsche" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
| Subject: | Overhead Console |
What overhead consoles are currently available for the RV-10?
David
40813 Still building slowly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console |
I believe that the Aerosport Products overhead is the only one that is stil
l commercially available.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of David J. Fritzsche
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 12:26:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console
What overhead consoles are currently available for the RV-10?
David
40813 Still building slowly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender - redux |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
* warning - slightly off topic*
I left several cars idle for a month and was rather upset when my wife's
new Miata's battery was 'dead'. Clearly a parasitic load was involved
and that would seem to be a defect. Then after considering all the
electrical tricks this particular car plays (e.g. the electric windows
are slightly nudged each time a door is opened or closed in order to get
a good seal with the retractable roof) I thought, "of course there are
parasitic loads, and they may be a bit more than the electric clock in
my Dad's old DeSoto".
I'm thinking that just about any modern car has some parasitic loads. I
have a mid-90s Caravan for occasional junk hauling that has weathered a
few parasitic load problems like a trailer brake. Even with all those
cleared I know that the transmission can be reset by disconnecting the
battery, so there must be some very small loads designed in.
So while I know I don't need a minder for my 680s, I think I'm getting
one for the Miata since there is a tendency to not put many miles on it
in the winter.
And I guess it's okay to use my Schumacher SC3 for an occasional charge
of my 680s. Even though the charger doesn't have settings for AGM
versus Lead Acid, versus Gel, it does specifically state it is good for
AGMs.
On 12/14/2017 9:53 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Having ruined a number of 680s during my 10 year odyssey, I've come to
> the same conclusions as Kelly has below. I'm a bit late to this
> discussion but here one thing I have empirical evidence for;
> undercharging these batteries will slowly kill them, slowly but
> inevitably.
>
> Three things I KNOW will do this is
>
> 1. Inadequate voltage in aircraft charging circuit (read the spec
> sheet and obey it). This seems straight forward but do check that
> the voltage you are displaying is the voltage the battery sees. I
> was measuring the voltage for my two charging circuits in two
> different places (EIS and EFIS). Turned out one was accurate and
> one was not.
> 2. Old battery tenders/minders not intended for AGM batteries.
> During my build, I had a few left over from my gel cell days in
> gliders. They will not adequately charge a discharged 680 but it
> takes about 1.2 years to discover that. I'm not sure, but using
> an old one to just maintain is worse than throwing the old thing
> away. If there are tenders/minders on the market now that are
> unsuitable for AGM batteries, I wouldn't know, but see Kelly's
> points below - you just don't need one, you need an AGM capable
> charger.
> 3. Parasitic loads when not in use. My load was fully documented;
> the clocks in my (3) GRT EFISs (this has since been eliminated
> thru an enlightened SW upgrade). It was a very small load but it
> was 3X a small load. I have 2 batteries but the load was connected
> to only one, which made diagnosis easier but more expensive. Why
> is such a small load in a frequently flown plane such a problem?
> Didn't grandpa drive cars with electric clocks? That didn't seem
> to be a problem. Well it was occasionally a problem. And with
> AGMs, a parasitic load seems to be equivalent to undercharging it;
> the battery is sits in a slowly declining state then is
> undercharged the next time it gets hit with the starter load. I
> don't know whether that is actually the mechnism but I KNOW a
> parasitic load will slowly, inevitably, kill a 680 or 2. I guess
> you could keep it on an AGM certified minder/tender but I'd
> suggest hunting down the load and killing it.
>
> Things will work just fine with any 3 of these conditions for 1-2
> years then they won't. It's a slow death that may mystify you for
> $awhile$. I have a boat but 680s make lousy anchors.
>
> Speaking of boats, my little jon boat is parked next to my '10. The
> Walmart/Schumacher charger with settings for AGM, Lead and Gel Cell(?)
> batteries worked fine until I apparently wore it out charging the lead
> acid trolling motor battery every other day. I'm going to separate
> chargers as a result.
>
> Regarding 'empirical evidence'; label, log and track your batteries,
> especially if you have 2 of the same installed like I do in my Z-14
> scheme. That data is the key to figuring out whether you have slow
> death problems or not and what might be causing them. Problems are
> easily mitigated with a dual batt/alt/bus Z-14 which is good and bad.
> It can delay diagnosis of electrical system problems because they
> aren't so critical. Which means that you can kill 2 batteries with one
> problem before you decide to act.
>
> Bill "I KNOW is shorthand for 'ask me how I know and how much it cost
> me to figure it out' " Watson
> On 12/6/2017 10:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do
>> not need a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery
>> whenever it has been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM
>> switch will do...as long as you only charge things when you are present.
>> AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was
>> no leakage of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
>> If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>> or
>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>> Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
>> Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
>> There are several unnecessary risks.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>>
>>> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the
>>> Walmart one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge
>>> my Odyssey PC-925 battery. It seems that they no longer carry the
>>> WM-2500A model any longer. Does anyone have any suggestions as to
>>> what would be a suitable replacement? Thanks.
>>>
>>> Ed Godfrey
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender - redux |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
If you're ok with having parasitic loads, I did find a device that I
bought for my truck, that can at least let you monitor your battery.
https://www.batterymart.com/p-081-0172-wireless-battery-monitor.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAsejRBRB3EiwAZft7sAXMPY8TZL8cCg4x-nF9y54EYPvNo9rtg2E94_p_apCDfMq6SUP9JBoCnzgQAvD_BwE
It's the Battery Tender wireless battery monitor.
I put a lighter pigtail on it, and plug it into my trucks always-on
accessory socket.
Warning: It was THE BIGGEST PAIN I've ever experienced, ever, in
configuring a wireless device, but, it does work. For my truck
that I don't drive much in the winter, I left the Ctek charger on it,
with this plugged into the truck, so any time I want I can check
the voltage of my battery. If the charger turns off, in theory
I will get an alert if the battery drains too low.
Better than not knowing, I guess. But questionable if you need it
if you're going to leave a charger on it anyway.
It turns itself off and every 10 minutes turns on, uploads the
battery voltage, and then sleeps again.
Tim
On 12/20/2017 02:09 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> * warning - slightly off topic*
> I left several cars idle for a month and was rather upset when my wife's
> new Miata's battery was 'dead'. Clearly a parasitic load was involved
> and that would seem to be a defect. Then after considering all the
> electrical tricks this particular car plays (e.g. the electric windows
> are slightly nudged each time a door is opened or closed in order to get
> a good seal with the retractable roof) I thought, "of course there are
> parasitic loads, and they may be a bit more than the electric clock in
> my Dad's old DeSoto".
>
> I'm thinking that just about any modern car has some parasitic loads. I
> have a mid-90s Caravan for occasional junk hauling that has weathered a
> few parasitic load problems like a trailer brake. Even with all those
> cleared I know that the transmission can be reset by disconnecting the
> battery, so there must be some very small loads designed in.
>
> So while I know I don't need a minder for my 680s, I think I'm getting
> one for the Miata since there is a tendency to not put many miles on it
> in the winter.
>
> And I guess it's okay to use my Schumacher SC3 for an occasional charge
> of my 680s. Even though the charger doesn't have settings for AGM
> versus Lead Acid, versus Gel, it does specifically state it is good for
> AGMs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
I thought I'd weigh in a bit with my own experience on parasitic loads on a PC680..
I have a dual battery configuration, with the idea being that I could power up
avionics, enter flight plans, do pre-start radio calls, etc. off the one battery
(the 680) and not have worry about draining the battery for engine start, as
my other battery takes care of that. Also, the 680 is also connected to the
"always on" pin for two of my EFISes (Advanced Flight Systems) which gives them
a better orderly shutdown, clock maintenance (I presume) and the ability to
run off the 680 as a backup battery if I have to turn my master off in flight
for some reason. It's also connected to the "trickle charge" pin of a TCW IBBS
Nimh battery pack (4mA max) used as a backup battery for other purposes.
Conceptually, it works well. And in practice it *did* work well for the first
little while - even in cases where I hadn't operated the aircraft for a month
and the 680 was under those small parasitic loads for a long time, the voltage
on the 680 measured fine and it ran my avionics for a reasonable amount of time.
But lately I've noticed that my 680 can't maintain a charge for long at all
if under any kind of load. I installed it around 3 years ago (only one of
those years flying, but for the other two, it was installed and under the same
electrical loads as now while I completed construction of the plane).
As long as only a couple of amps are flowing through, it can maintain its voltage
reasonably well before drooping. But if larger loads (ie: 7 or 8 amps) are
present, it drains extremely rapidly.
I'll have to replace the PC680 if I want any kind of reasonable backup operational
time from it. Maybe a 3 year lifespan for a 680 in that electrical environment
is to be expected, but I'm considering if other technologies might be more
appropriate. I don't need the cranking capacity of the 680 in regular use
- my other battery does that. But I am looking for something that can provide
a 10 or so amp draw for as long a period of time as possible while not being
so adverse to parasitic loads. Anyone found anything that meets that criteria?
Or I can just replace the 680 every 3 or so years - there are certainly more
expensive things I have to maintain in the plane :-)
Dan
> On 2017-Dec-14, at 7:53 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Having ruined a number of 680s during my 10 year odyssey, I've come to the same
conclusions as Kelly has below. I'm a bit late to this discussion but here
one thing I have empirical evidence for; undercharging these batteries will slowly
kill them, slowly but inevitably.
>
> Three things I KNOW will do this is
> Inadequate voltage in aircraft charging circuit (read the spec sheet and obey
it). This seems straight forward but do check that the voltage you are displaying
is the voltage the battery sees. I was measuring the voltage for my
two charging circuits in two different places (EIS and EFIS). Turned out one
was accurate and one was not.
> Old battery tenders/minders not intended for AGM batteries. During my build,
I had a few left over from my gel cell days in gliders. They will not adequately
charge a discharged 680 but it takes about 1.2 years to discover that.
I'm not sure, but using an old one to just maintain is worse than throwing
the old thing away. If there are tenders/minders on the market now that are
unsuitable for AGM batteries, I wouldn't know, but see Kelly's points below -
you just don't need one, you need an AGM capable charger.
> Parasitic loads when not in use. My load was fully documented; the clocks
in my (3) GRT EFISs (this has since been eliminated thru an enlightened SW upgrade).
It was a very small load but it was 3X a small load. I have 2 batteries
but the load was connected to only one, which made diagnosis easier but more
expensive. Why is such a small load in a frequently flown plane such a problem?
Didn't grandpa drive cars with electric clocks? That didn't seem to be a
problem. Well it was occasionally a problem. And with AGMs, a parasitic load
seems to be equivalent to undercharging it; the battery is sits in a slowly
declining state then is undercharged the next time it gets hit with the starter
load. I don't know whether that is actually the mechnism but I KNOW a parasitic
load will slowly, inevitably, kill a 680 or 2. I guess you could keep it
on an AGM certified minder/tender but I'd suggest hunting down the load and killing
it.
> Things will work just fine with any 3 of these conditions for 1-2 years then
they won't. It's a slow death that may mystify you for $awhile$. I have a boat
but 680s make lousy anchors.
>
> Speaking of boats, my little jon boat is parked next to my '10. The Walmart/Schumacher
charger with settings for AGM, Lead and Gel Cell(?) batteries worked
fine until I apparently wore it out charging the lead acid trolling motor battery
every other day. I'm going to separate chargers as a result.
>
> Regarding 'empirical evidence'; label, log and track your batteries, especially
if you have 2 of the same installed like I do in my Z-14 scheme. That data
is the key to figuring out whether you have slow death problems or not and what
might be causing them. Problems are easily mitigated with a dual batt/alt/bus
Z-14 which is good and bad. It can delay diagnosis of electrical system problems
because they aren't so critical. Which means that you can kill 2 batteries
with one problem before you decide to act.
>
> Bill "I KNOW is shorthand for 'ask me how I know and how much it cost me to figure
it out' " Watson
> On 12/6/2017 10:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do not need
a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery whenever it has
been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM switch will do...as long
as you only charge things when you are present.
>> AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was no leakage
of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
>> If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>> or
>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>> Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
>> Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
>> There are several unnecessary risks.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>>
>>> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the Walmart
one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my Odyssey PC-925
battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A model any longer. Does
anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a suitable replacement? Thanks.
>>>
>>> Ed Godfrey
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Dan,
I don't recall where I saw it, but the Odyssey batteries apparently
don't like being charged at too slow a rate or two low a voltage. You
might search for a document on restoring them. I do remember that
somebody came up with a procedure. Don't recall if it was to discharge a
fair amount and then use a constant current charger or something else.
Early failures of Odysseys are not uncommon, either from low use while
finishing a build or other uses that don't fit the normal start the
engine, fly for awhile with alternator set a bit higher than a wet acid
battery...maybe 14.4 volts. I have a charger that was sold specifically
for the Odyssey, (Ultimizer?) that cycles from about 13.3 to 14.6 when
maintaining a fully charged battery. I've got about 3 years on my
Odyssey, with first year finishing build and learning the avionics
before actually flying with it.
Kelly
On 12/20/2017 10:50 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> I thought I'd weigh in a bit with my own experience on parasitic loads on a PC680..
>
> I have a dual battery configuration, with the idea being that I could power up
avionics, enter flight plans, do pre-start radio calls, etc. off the one battery
(the 680) and not have worry about draining the battery for engine start,
as my other battery takes care of that. Also, the 680 is also connected to the
"always on" pin for two of my EFISes (Advanced Flight Systems) which gives
them a better orderly shutdown, clock maintenance (I presume) and the ability
to run off the 680 as a backup battery if I have to turn my master off in flight
for some reason. It's also connected to the "trickle charge" pin of a TCW
IBBS Nimh battery pack (4mA max) used as a backup battery for other purposes.
>
> Conceptually, it works well. And in practice it *did* work well for the first
little while - even in cases where I hadn't operated the aircraft for a month
and the 680 was under those small parasitic loads for a long time, the voltage
on the 680 measured fine and it ran my avionics for a reasonable amount of
time. But lately I've noticed that my 680 can't maintain a charge for long at
all if under any kind of load. I installed it around 3 years ago (only one of
those years flying, but for the other two, it was installed and under the same
electrical loads as now while I completed construction of the plane).
>
> As long as only a couple of amps are flowing through, it can maintain its voltage
reasonably well before drooping. But if larger loads (ie: 7 or 8 amps) are
present, it drains extremely rapidly.
>
> I'll have to replace the PC680 if I want any kind of reasonable backup operational
time from it. Maybe a 3 year lifespan for a 680 in that electrical environment
is to be expected, but I'm considering if other technologies might be
more appropriate. I don't need the cranking capacity of the 680 in regular use
- my other battery does that. But I am looking for something that can provide
a 10 or so amp draw for as long a period of time as possible while not being
so adverse to parasitic loads. Anyone found anything that meets that criteria?
Or I can just replace the 680 every 3 or so years - there are certainly more
expensive things I have to maintain in the plane :-)
>
> Dan
>
>> On 2017-Dec-14, at 7:53 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Having ruined a number of 680s during my 10 year odyssey, I've come to the same
conclusions as Kelly has below. I'm a bit late to this discussion but here
one thing I have empirical evidence for; undercharging these batteries will
slowly kill them, slowly but inevitably.
>>
>> Three things I KNOW will do this is
>> Inadequate voltage in aircraft charging circuit (read the spec sheet and
obey it). This seems straight forward but do check that the voltage you are displaying
is the voltage the battery sees. I was measuring the voltage for my
two charging circuits in two different places (EIS and EFIS). Turned out one
was accurate and one was not.
>> Old battery tenders/minders not intended for AGM batteries. During my build,
I had a few left over from my gel cell days in gliders. They will not adequately
charge a discharged 680 but it takes about 1.2 years to discover that.
I'm not sure, but using an old one to just maintain is worse than throwing
the old thing away. If there are tenders/minders on the market now that are
unsuitable for AGM batteries, I wouldn't know, but see Kelly's points below -
you just don't need one, you need an AGM capable charger.
>> Parasitic loads when not in use. My load was fully documented; the clocks
in my (3) GRT EFISs (this has since been eliminated thru an enlightened SW upgrade).
It was a very small load but it was 3X a small load. I have 2 batteries
but the load was connected to only one, which made diagnosis easier but more
expensive. Why is such a small load in a frequently flown plane such a problem?
Didn't grandpa drive cars with electric clocks? That didn't seem to be
a problem. Well it was occasionally a problem. And with AGMs, a parasitic load
seems to be equivalent to undercharging it; the battery is sits in a slowly
declining state then is undercharged the next time it gets hit with the starter
load. I don't know whether that is actually the mechnism but I KNOW a parasitic
load will slowly, inevitably, kill a 680 or 2. I guess you could keep it
on an AGM certified minder/tender but I'd suggest hunting down the load and
killing it.
>> Things will work just fine with any 3 of these conditions for 1-2 years then
they won't. It's a slow death that may mystify you for $awhile$. I have a boat
but 680s make lousy anchors.
>>
>> Speaking of boats, my little jon boat is parked next to my '10. The Walmart/Schumacher
charger with settings for AGM, Lead and Gel Cell(?) batteries worked
fine until I apparently wore it out charging the lead acid trolling motor battery
every other day. I'm going to separate chargers as a result.
>>
>> Regarding 'empirical evidence'; label, log and track your batteries, especially
if you have 2 of the same installed like I do in my Z-14 scheme. That data
is the key to figuring out whether you have slow death problems or not and what
might be causing them. Problems are easily mitigated with a dual batt/alt/bus
Z-14 which is good and bad. It can delay diagnosis of electrical system
problems because they aren't so critical. Which means that you can kill 2 batteries
with one problem before you decide to act.
>>
>> Bill "I KNOW is shorthand for 'ask me how I know and how much it cost me to
figure it out' " Watson
>> On 12/6/2017 10:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>> The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do not need
a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery whenever it has
been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM switch will do...as long
as you only charge things when you are present.
>>> AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was no leakage
of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
>>> If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
>>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>>> or
>>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>>> Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
>>> Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
>>> There are several unnecessary risks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the Walmart
one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my Odyssey PC-925
battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A model any longer.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a suitable replacement? Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Ed Godfrey
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
While risking the ire of the battery charger war .. several articles have been
written in the past in Light Plane Maintenance and Aviation Consumer that discuss
whether or not to keep a charger on your battery(ies). You should go back
and research those. Based on those, I purchased a Battery Minder designed specifically
for the 2 PC680s I have in my RV10. Since I dont fly my plane at least
an hour each week (the time required to fully replace the lost charge from
starting) I keep a single Battery Minder connected to my 2 batteries. My first
set of batteries were removed at the 6 year point, and were going strong.
I keep one around the hangar for odd use and 12years on, it is still providing
good amps.
About to fly my newly built RV8 and was debating whether to get the increased cost
Battery Minder when a friend turned me onto the Odyssey built chargers designed
specifically for the Odyssey batteries (they come in 3 different charging
amp versions). I just hooked up the 6amp version ($109 from AutoZone) and it
has all of the capabilities of the Battery Minder except for the temperature
sensor. My friend has been using one for his homebuilt for years and swears
by it.
Bottom line - unless you fly at least 1 hr (continuous flight time) once a week,
your batter(ies) are slowly losing capacity over time..and if you have parasitic
loads on them when in the hangar, a smart charger like the Odyssey or Battery
Minder plugged in while the plane sits in the hangar are an absolute must.
grumpy
RV10 flying 11+ years, RV8 about to fly
> On Dec 20, 2017, at 11:50 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
>
> I thought I'd weigh in a bit with my own experience on parasitic loads on a PC680..
>
> I have a dual battery configuration, with the idea being that I could power up
avionics, enter flight plans, do pre-start radio calls, etc. off the one battery
(the 680) and not have worry about draining the battery for engine start,
as my other battery takes care of that. Also, the 680 is also connected to the
"always on" pin for two of my EFISes (Advanced Flight Systems) which gives
them a better orderly shutdown, clock maintenance (I presume) and the ability
to run off the 680 as a backup battery if I have to turn my master off in flight
for some reason. It's also connected to the "trickle charge" pin of a TCW
IBBS Nimh battery pack (4mA max) used as a backup battery for other purposes.
>
> Conceptually, it works well. And in practice it *did* work well for the first
little while - even in cases where I hadn't operated the aircraft for a month
and the 680 was under those small parasitic loads for a long time, the voltage
on the 680 measured fine and it ran my avionics for a reasonable amount of
time. But lately I've noticed that my 680 can't maintain a charge for long at
all if under any kind of load. I installed it around 3 years ago (only one of
those years flying, but for the other two, it was installed and under the same
electrical loads as now while I completed construction of the plane).
>
> As long as only a couple of amps are flowing through, it can maintain its voltage
reasonably well before drooping. But if larger loads (ie: 7 or 8 amps) are
present, it drains extremely rapidly.
>
> I'll have to replace the PC680 if I want any kind of reasonable backup operational
time from it. Maybe a 3 year lifespan for a 680 in that electrical environment
is to be expected, but I'm considering if other technologies might be
more appropriate. I don't need the cranking capacity of the 680 in regular use
- my other battery does that. But I am looking for something that can provide
a 10 or so amp draw for as long a period of time as possible while not being
so adverse to parasitic loads. Anyone found anything that meets that criteria?
Or I can just replace the 680 every 3 or so years - there are certainly more
expensive things I have to maintain in the plane :-)
>
> Dan
>
>> On 2017-Dec-14, at 7:53 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Having ruined a number of 680s during my 10 year odyssey, I've come to the same
conclusions as Kelly has below. I'm a bit late to this discussion but here
one thing I have empirical evidence for; undercharging these batteries will
slowly kill them, slowly but inevitably.
>>
>> Three things I KNOW will do this is
>> Inadequate voltage in aircraft charging circuit (read the spec sheet and
obey it). This seems straight forward but do check that the voltage you are displaying
is the voltage the battery sees. I was measuring the voltage for my
two charging circuits in two different places (EIS and EFIS). Turned out one
was accurate and one was not.
>> Old battery tenders/minders not intended for AGM batteries. During my build,
I had a few left over from my gel cell days in gliders. They will not adequately
charge a discharged 680 but it takes about 1.2 years to discover that.
I'm not sure, but using an old one to just maintain is worse than throwing
the old thing away. If there are tenders/minders on the market now that are
unsuitable for AGM batteries, I wouldn't know, but see Kelly's points below -
you just don't need one, you need an AGM capable charger.
>> Parasitic loads when not in use. My load was fully documented; the clocks
in my (3) GRT EFISs (this has since been eliminated thru an enlightened SW upgrade).
It was a very small load but it was 3X a small load. I have 2 batteries
but the load was connected to only one, which made diagnosis easier but more
expensive. Why is such a small load in a frequently flown plane such a problem?
Didn't grandpa drive cars with electric clocks? That didn't seem to be
a problem. Well it was occasionally a problem. And with AGMs, a parasitic load
seems to be equivalent to undercharging it; the battery is sits in a slowly
declining state then is undercharged the next time it gets hit with the starter
load. I don't know whether that is actually the mechnism but I KNOW a parasitic
load will slowly, inevitably, kill a 680 or 2. I guess you could keep it
on an AGM certified minder/tender but I'd suggest hunting down the load and
killing it.
>> Things will work just fine with any 3 of these conditions for 1-2 years then
they won't. It's a slow death that may mystify you for $awhile$. I have a boat
but 680s make lousy anchors.
>>
>> Speaking of boats, my little jon boat is parked next to my '10. The Walmart/Schumacher
charger with settings for AGM, Lead and Gel Cell(?) batteries worked
fine until I apparently wore it out charging the lead acid trolling motor battery
every other day. I'm going to separate chargers as a result.
>>
>> Regarding 'empirical evidence'; label, log and track your batteries, especially
if you have 2 of the same installed like I do in my Z-14 scheme. That data
is the key to figuring out whether you have slow death problems or not and what
might be causing them. Problems are easily mitigated with a dual batt/alt/bus
Z-14 which is good and bad. It can delay diagnosis of electrical system
problems because they aren't so critical. Which means that you can kill 2 batteries
with one problem before you decide to act.
>>
>> Bill "I KNOW is shorthand for 'ask me how I know and how much it cost me to
figure it out' " Watson
>> On 12/6/2017 10:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>> The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do not need
a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery whenever it has
been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM switch will do...as long
as you only charge things when you are present.
>>> AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was no leakage
of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
>>> If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
>>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>>> or
>>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>>> Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
>>> Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
>>> There are several unnecessary risks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the Walmart
one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my Odyssey PC-925
battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A model any longer.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a suitable replacement? Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Ed Godfrey
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dual battery automatic charger |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
I would like to keep both Odyssey batteries on a trickle charger. I previously
saved a photo from a post but I cant identify the model # in this photo. Does
anyone have and idea of the model # in the photo?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476678#476678
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/152a9c0c_e823_4fe1_8f87_e83e3f437041_832.jpeg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery charger/minder/tender |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
No charger wars!
But I would challenge one conclusion; "unless you fly at least 1 hr
(continuous flight time) once a week, your batter(ies) are slowly losing
capacity over time". I think the point is that the Odysseys need to be
fully recharged after (most) starts and that it may take a full hour of
post-start flight to fully recharge them.
What I've found and read is that AGM batteries can be left untouched for
long periods of time (2 years) as long as they are stored in a fully
charged state. But anything that results in them sitting around in a
less than fully charged state will slowly but inevitably kill them. My
solution to this is 1) make sure my charging system is charging them at
a high enough voltage (14.1 - 14.7), 2) Get rid of all parasitic loads,
3) If I ever need to power-on the plane without flying it afterwards, I
hook it up to a charger to top it off.
The biggest discovery I made after 5+ years of expensive battery abuse
is that everything I needed to know was documented in the spec sheet
that ships with every Odyssey. I just had to read and obey.
On 12/21/2017 8:48 AM, John Miller wrote:
>
> While risking the ire of the battery charger war .. several articles have been
written in the past in Light Plane Maintenance and Aviation Consumer that discuss
whether or not to keep a charger on your battery(ies). You should go back
and research those. Based on those, I purchased a Battery Minder designed
specifically for the 2 PC680s I have in my RV10. Since I dont fly my plane at
least an hour each week (the time required to fully replace the lost charge from
starting) I keep a single Battery Minder connected to my 2 batteries. My
first set of batteries were removed at the 6 year point, and were going strong.
I keep one around the hangar for odd use and 12years on, it is still providing
good amps.
>
> About to fly my newly built RV8 and was debating whether to get the increased
cost Battery Minder when a friend turned me onto the Odyssey built chargers designed
specifically for the Odyssey batteries (they come in 3 different charging
amp versions). I just hooked up the 6amp version ($109 from AutoZone) and
it has all of the capabilities of the Battery Minder except for the temperature
sensor. My friend has been using one for his homebuilt for years and swears
by it.
>
> Bottom line - unless you fly at least 1 hr (continuous flight time) once a week,
your batter(ies) are slowly losing capacity over time..and if you have parasitic
loads on them when in the hangar, a smart charger like the Odyssey or Battery
Minder plugged in while the plane sits in the hangar are an absolute must.
>
> grumpy
> RV10 flying 11+ years, RV8 about to fly
>
>> On Dec 20, 2017, at 11:50 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>>
>>
>> I thought I'd weigh in a bit with my own experience on parasitic loads on a
PC680..
>>
>> I have a dual battery configuration, with the idea being that I could power
up avionics, enter flight plans, do pre-start radio calls, etc. off the one battery
(the 680) and not have worry about draining the battery for engine start,
as my other battery takes care of that. Also, the 680 is also connected to
the "always on" pin for two of my EFISes (Advanced Flight Systems) which gives
them a better orderly shutdown, clock maintenance (I presume) and the ability
to run off the 680 as a backup battery if I have to turn my master off in flight
for some reason. It's also connected to the "trickle charge" pin of a TCW
IBBS Nimh battery pack (4mA max) used as a backup battery for other purposes.
>>
>> Conceptually, it works well. And in practice it *did* work well for the first
little while - even in cases where I hadn't operated the aircraft for a month
and the 680 was under those small parasitic loads for a long time, the voltage
on the 680 measured fine and it ran my avionics for a reasonable amount of
time. But lately I've noticed that my 680 can't maintain a charge for long at
all if under any kind of load. I installed it around 3 years ago (only one
of those years flying, but for the other two, it was installed and under the same
electrical loads as now while I completed construction of the plane).
>>
>> As long as only a couple of amps are flowing through, it can maintain its voltage
reasonably well before drooping. But if larger loads (ie: 7 or 8 amps)
are present, it drains extremely rapidly.
>>
>> I'll have to replace the PC680 if I want any kind of reasonable backup operational
time from it. Maybe a 3 year lifespan for a 680 in that electrical environment
is to be expected, but I'm considering if other technologies might be
more appropriate. I don't need the cranking capacity of the 680 in regular use
- my other battery does that. But I am looking for something that can provide
a 10 or so amp draw for as long a period of time as possible while not being
so adverse to parasitic loads. Anyone found anything that meets that criteria?
Or I can just replace the 680 every 3 or so years - there are certainly
more expensive things I have to maintain in the plane :-)
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>> On 2017-Dec-14, at 7:53 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>>
>>> Having ruined a number of 680s during my 10 year odyssey, I've come to the
same conclusions as Kelly has below. I'm a bit late to this discussion but here
one thing I have empirical evidence for; undercharging these batteries will
slowly kill them, slowly but inevitably.
>>>
>>> Three things I KNOW will do this is
>>> Inadequate voltage in aircraft charging circuit (read the spec sheet and
obey it). This seems straight forward but do check that the voltage you are
displaying is the voltage the battery sees. I was measuring the voltage for my
two charging circuits in two different places (EIS and EFIS). Turned out one
was accurate and one was not.
>>> Old battery tenders/minders not intended for AGM batteries. During my build,
I had a few left over from my gel cell days in gliders. They will not adequately
charge a discharged 680 but it takes about 1.2 years to discover that.
I'm not sure, but using an old one to just maintain is worse than throwing
the old thing away. If there are tenders/minders on the market now that are
unsuitable for AGM batteries, I wouldn't know, but see Kelly's points below
- you just don't need one, you need an AGM capable charger.
>>> Parasitic loads when not in use. My load was fully documented; the clocks
in my (3) GRT EFISs (this has since been eliminated thru an enlightened SW upgrade).
It was a very small load but it was 3X a small load. I have 2 batteries
but the load was connected to only one, which made diagnosis easier but more
expensive. Why is such a small load in a frequently flown plane such a problem?
Didn't grandpa drive cars with electric clocks? That didn't seem to be
a problem. Well it was occasionally a problem. And with AGMs, a parasitic load
seems to be equivalent to undercharging it; the battery is sits in a slowly
declining state then is undercharged the next time it gets hit with the starter
load. I don't know whether that is actually the mechnism but I KNOW a parasitic
load will slowly, inevitably, kill a 680 or 2. I guess you could keep
it on an AGM certified minder/tender but I'd suggest hunting down the load and
killing it.
>>> Things will work just fine with any 3 of these conditions for 1-2 years then
they won't. It's a slow death that may mystify you for $awhile$. I have a
boat but 680s make lousy anchors.
>>>
>>> Speaking of boats, my little jon boat is parked next to my '10. The Walmart/Schumacher
charger with settings for AGM, Lead and Gel Cell(?) batteries worked
fine until I apparently wore it out charging the lead acid trolling motor
battery every other day. I'm going to separate chargers as a result.
>>>
>>> Regarding 'empirical evidence'; label, log and track your batteries, especially
if you have 2 of the same installed like I do in my Z-14 scheme. That data
is the key to figuring out whether you have slow death problems or not and
what might be causing them. Problems are easily mitigated with a dual batt/alt/bus
Z-14 which is good and bad. It can delay diagnosis of electrical system
problems because they aren't so critical. Which means that you can kill 2 batteries
with one problem before you decide to act.
>>>
>>> Bill "I KNOW is shorthand for 'ask me how I know and how much it cost me to
figure it out' " Watson
>>> On 12/6/2017 10:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that you do not
need a "tender". You need something that can recharge the battery whenever it
has been run down. Most any automatic charger with an AGM switch will do...as
long as you only charge things when you are present.
>>>> AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there was no leakage
of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of sitting.
>>>> If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with
>>>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>>>> or
>>>> https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html
>>>> Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models.
>>>> Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery unattended.
>>>> There are several unnecessary risks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking for the Walmart
one that Tim had suggested a number of years ago, to charge my Odyssey PC-925
battery. It seems that they no longer carry the WM-2500A model any longer.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a suitable replacement?
Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ed Godfrey
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>>
>>
>> ---
>> Dan Charrois
>> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
>> Phone: 780-961-2213
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator will not put out current |
Fellow RV10 guys.
I am ready to fly the RV8 I have been building for the past 5 years, but
I have an alternator issue maybe one of you can help with.
The alternator I have installed is an Ultima (with internal voltage
regulator) from O=99Reilly=99s auto parts store. My next
door hangar mate has an RV7 with the same alternator setup.
When I did my first ground engine run on Thursday, all worked fine
except the alternator would not put out voltage.
I double checked my connector plug wiring against my hangar mate's, and
and made my connector wiring exactly the same as his is. Then I
confirmed that I had 12v (with alt field switch on) to each of the 2
connectors in the plug, plugged it into the alternator, and ran engine
again but no voltage increase with the alt field switch on.
With the alt field switch, there is no voltage to the connector, but
there is batt voltage showing at the alternator output wire with the
batt switch on.
Friday, I pulled the alternator off and took it back to O=99Reilly
=99s. It bench checked ok on their alternator tester. I also
confirmed on their tester that the 2 connectors had 12v to them - it
did. Then I had them order a new alternator anyway and it bench checked
ok before I left the store..
Put the new alternator on this am. Ops checked it this afternoon with
an engine run and also ran a temp lead from the alternator output
connector to a voltmeter. The alternator output never went above the
battery voltage of 12.7v with the alt field switch on.
Thinking it might be the connector plug that plugs into the back of the
alternator, I changed out that plug for an older one I had with the
original Denso alternator I had on my RV10. I confirmed that I had 12v
to the 2 connectors with alt field switch on and ran the engine again -
no voltage increase again!
I am at wits end trying to get the alternator to put out voltage when
the engine is runningany of you have suggestions?
Thanks - Grumpy
N184JM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator will not put out current |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My first suggestion is to get a real schematic for this alternator, not just try
to copy your neighbors plug.
There are many different Ultima models.
Do you have a good ground connection?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476728#476728
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator will not put out current |
Are you increasing engine rpm above idle during the checks? Some alternators/ pulley
size combinations will not get above battery voltage until the engine speed
is higher.
Good luck and happy holidays to all!
Gordon Anderson
Switzerland 41015 just painted
Sent from my iPad
> On 24 Dec 2017, at 08:45, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 17-12-23&Archive=RV10
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 17-12-23&Archive=RV10
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV10-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 12/23/17: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 07:54 PM - Alternator will not put out current (John Miller)
> 2. 09:11 PM - Re: Alternator will not put out current (Bob Turner)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Alternator will not put out current
>
> Fellow RV10 guys.
>
> I am ready to fly the RV8 I have been building for the past 5 years, but
> I have an alternator issue maybe one of you can help with.
>
> The alternator I have installed is an Ultima (with internal voltage
> regulator) from O=99Reilly=99s auto parts store. My next
> door hangar mate has an RV7 with the same alternator setup.
>
> When I did my first ground engine run on Thursday, all worked fine
> except the alternator would not put out voltage.
>
> I double checked my connector plug wiring against my hangar mate's, and
> and made my connector wiring exactly the same as his is. Then I
> confirmed that I had 12v (with alt field switch on) to each of the 2
> connectors in the plug, plugged it into the alternator, and ran engine
> again but no voltage increase with the alt field switch on.
>
> With the alt field switch, there is no voltage to the connector, but
> there is batt voltage showing at the alternator output wire with the
> batt switch on.
>
> Friday, I pulled the alternator off and took it back to O=99Reilly
> =99s. It bench checked ok on their alternator tester. I also
> confirmed on their tester that the 2 connectors had 12v to them - it
> did. Then I had them order a new alternator anyway and it bench checked
> ok before I left the store..
>
> Put the new alternator on this am. Ops checked it this afternoon with
> an engine run and also ran a temp lead from the alternator output
> connector to a voltmeter. The alternator output never went above the
> battery voltage of 12.7v with the alt field switch on.
>
> Thinking it might be the connector plug that plugs into the back of the
> alternator, I changed out that plug for an older one I had with the
> original Denso alternator I had on my RV10. I confirmed that I had 12v
> to the 2 connectors with alt field switch on and ran the engine again -
> no voltage increase again!
>
> I am at wits end trying to get the alternator to put out voltage when
> the engine is runningany of you have suggestions?
>
> Thanks - Grumpy
> N184JM
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Alternator will not put out current
> From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
>
>
> My first suggestion is to get a real schematic for this alternator, not just
try
> to copy your neighbors plug.
> There are many different Ultima models.
> Do you have a good ground connection?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476728#476728
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | EFIS Configuration |
Merry Christmas to all
Its now the time to make the configuration of the G3X in my RV-10 with IO-540.
Can those who already did it, and tested it flying, please send me their configuration
data.
Thanks in advance
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator will not put out current |
There usually isn't much to those things, you need big wire/current from
it(#6 probably) and small wire/current to it(#18 probably).
Your alternator needs up to 5 amps on the field, you could test that you've
got sufficient current available by briefly putting a 50 watt halogen bulb
on the field at the alternator end and seeing if it lights up.
Bill Judge
RV-8 N84WJ
1240 hrs
http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
On Sat, Dec 23, 2017 at 11:45 PM, RV10-List Digest Server <
rv10-list(at)matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style
> 82701&View=html&Chapter 17-12-23&Archive=RV10
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style
> 82701&View=txt&Chapter 17-12-23&Archive=RV10
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV10-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 12/23/17: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 07:54 PM - Alternator will not put out current (John Miller)
> 2. 09:11 PM - Re: Alternator will not put out current (Bob Turner)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Alternator will not put out current
>
> Fellow RV10 guys.
>
> I am ready to fly the RV8 I have been building for the past 5 years, but
> I have an alternator issue maybe one of you can help with.
>
> The alternator I have installed is an Ultima (with internal voltage
> regulator) from O=99Reilly=99s auto parts store. My next
> door hangar mate has an RV7 with the same alternator setup.
>
> When I did my first ground engine run on Thursday, all worked fine
> except the alternator would not put out voltage.
>
> I double checked my connector plug wiring against my hangar mate's, and
> and made my connector wiring exactly the same as his is. Then I
> confirmed that I had 12v (with alt field switch on) to each of the 2
> connectors in the plug, plugged it into the alternator, and ran engine
> again but no voltage increase with the alt field switch on.
>
> With the alt field switch, there is no voltage to the connector, but
> there is batt voltage showing at the alternator output wire with the
> batt switch on.
>
> Friday, I pulled the alternator off and took it back to O=99Reilly
> =99s. It bench checked ok on their alternator tester. I also
> confirmed on their tester that the 2 connectors had 12v to them - it
> did. Then I had them order a new alternator anyway and it bench checked
> ok before I left the store..
>
> Put the new alternator on this am. Ops checked it this afternoon with
> an engine run and also ran a temp lead from the alternator output
> connector to a voltmeter. The alternator output never went above the
> battery voltage of 12.7v with the alt field switch on.
>
> Thinking it might be the connector plug that plugs into the back of the
> alternator, I changed out that plug for an older one I had with the
> original Denso alternator I had on my RV10. I confirmed that I had 12v
> to the 2 connectors with alt field switch on and ran the engine again -
> no voltage increase again!
>
> I am at wits end trying to get the alternator to put out voltage when
> the engine is runningany of you have suggestions?
>
> Thanks - Grumpy
> N184JM
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Alternator will not put out current
> From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
>
>
> My first suggestion is to get a real schematic for this alternator, not
> just try
> to copy your neighbors plug.
> There are many different Ultima models.
> Do you have a good ground connection?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476728#476728
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator will not put out current |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Grumpy
My suggestion would be to pull the alternator and have a rewind shop check it out.
They have the test kit that will remove any doubt as to its status.
Only then would I start troubleshooting other things - unless it is super obvious
like a broken field wire.
I would not take any chances on the alternator as it could lead to expensive repairs
- I had an IR alternator go south and and cause all kinds of havoc to my
avionics a couple of years ago.
In my opinion, it is not worth the risk to try and troubleshoot it while connected
to your electro magic gizmos.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476746#476746
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Merry Christmas / Happy Hannukah |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
To all on the list
A Merry Christmas to all (as well as a belated Happy Hanukah) and best wishes for
the New Year. May your projects be flying or completed in 2018 (or on track
for completion).
Happiness, health and blue skies to one and all.
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476747#476747
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator will not put out current |
Bill, I think you hit the nail on the head.
We traced down today that the 12v isn=99t carrying any amps to the
alternator, so have to look back at connections, etc, to see if I have a
bad crimp or a pinched wire (ugh!)
My ace A&P and an electrician friend helped me get to that point, and
you don=99t have to use the light bulb. Put the voltmeter on the
connector with it plugged into the alternator and see what the volts
do..went to less than 1v. Disconnect from the alternator and
reads a solid 12v.so I was getting voltage, no amps through the
wire.
Thanks - grumpy
> On Dec 24, 2017, at 11:09 AM, Bill Judge wrote:
>
> There usually isn't much to those things, you need big wire/current
from it(#6 probably) and small wire/current to it(#18 probably).
>
>
> Your alternator needs up to 5 amps on the field, you could test that
you've got sufficient current available by briefly putting a 50 watt
halogen bulb on the field at the alternator end and seeing if it lights
up.
>
> Bill Judge
> RV-8 N84WJ
> 1240 hrs
> http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 23, 2017 at 11:45 PM, RV10-List Digest Server
> wrote:
> *
>
> ========================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ========================
>
> Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version
> of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&C
hapter 17-12-23&Archive=RV10
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&
Chapter 17-12-23&Archive=RV10>
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Ch
apter 17-12-23&Archive=RV10
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&C
hapter 17-12-23&Archive=RV10>
>
>
> ========================
=======================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ========================
=======================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV10-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 12/23/17: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 07:54 PM - Alternator will not put out current (John Miller)
> 2. 09:11 PM - Re: Alternator will not put out current (Bob
Turner)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com <mailto:gengrumpy(at)aol.com>>
> Subject: RV10-List: Alternator will not put out current
>
> Fellow RV10 guys.
>
> I am ready to fly the RV8 I have been building for the past 5 years,
but
> I have an alternator issue maybe one of you can help with.
>
> The alternator I have installed is an Ultima (with internal voltage
> regulator) from O=99Reilly=99s auto parts store. My next
> door hangar mate has an RV7 with the same alternator setup.
>
> When I did my first ground engine run on Thursday, all worked fine
> except the alternator would not put out voltage.
>
> I double checked my connector plug wiring against my hangar mate's,
and
> and made my connector wiring exactly the same as his is. Then I
> confirmed that I had 12v (with alt field switch on) to each of the 2
> connectors in the plug, plugged it into the alternator, and ran engine
> again but no voltage increase with the alt field switch on.
>
> With the alt field switch, there is no voltage to the connector, but
> there is batt voltage showing at the alternator output wire with the
> batt switch on.
>
> Friday, I pulled the alternator off and took it back to O=99Reilly
> =99s. It bench checked ok on their alternator tester. I also
> confirmed on their tester that the 2 connectors had 12v to them - it
> did. Then I had them order a new alternator anyway and it bench
checked
> ok before I left the store..
>
> Put the new alternator on this am. Ops checked it this afternoon with
> an engine run and also ran a temp lead from the alternator output
> connector to a voltmeter. The alternator output never went above the
> battery voltage of 12.7v with the alt field switch on.
>
> Thinking it might be the connector plug that plugs into the back of
the
> alternator, I changed out that plug for an older one I had with the
> original Denso alternator I had on my RV10. I confirmed that I had
12v
> to the 2 connectors with alt field switch on and ran the engine again
-
> no voltage increase again!
>
> I am at wits end trying to get the alternator to put out voltage when
> the engine is runningany of you have suggestions?
>
> Thanks - Grumpy
> N184JM
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Alternator will not put out current
> From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu
>
>
>
> My first suggestion is to get a real schematic for this alternator,
not just try
> to copy your neighbors plug.
> There are many different Ultima models.
> Do you have a good ground connection?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476728#476728
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476728#476728>
>
>
>
>
> ========================
===========
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ========================
===========
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> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ========================
===========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator will not put out current |
I had a broken wire on my Field winding as well. Happened on the red wire cr
imp at the plug! When I enquired about a replacement plug Plane Power=99
s agent in Australia was not interested in helping with a new plug.
Cheers John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV10 41016
> On 25 Dec 2017, at 08:49, John Miller wrote:
>
> Bill, I think you hit the nail on the head.
>
> We traced down today that the 12v isn=99t carrying any amps to the a
lternator, so have to look back at connections, etc, to see if I have a bad c
rimp or a pinched wire (ugh!)
>
> My ace A&P and an electrician friend helped me get to that point, and you d
on=99t have to use the light bulb. Put the voltmeter on the connector
with it plugged into the alternator and see what the volts do..wen
t to less than 1v. Disconnect from the alternator and reads a solid 12v
.so I was getting voltage, no amps through the wire.
>
> Thanks - grumpy
>
>> On Dec 24, 2017, at 11:09 AM, Bill Judge wrote:
>>
>> There usually isn't much to those things, you need big wire/current from i
t(#6 probably) and small wire/current to it(#18 probably).
>>
>>
>> Your alternator needs up to 5 amps on the field, you could test that you'
ve got sufficient current available by briefly putting a 50 watt halogen bul
b on the field at the alternator end and seeing if it lights up.
>>
>> Bill Judge
>> RV-8 N84WJ
>> 1240 hrs
>> http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
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