RV10-Archive.digest.vol-nb
December 24, 2017 - April 09, 2018
>>> ========================
=======================
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>> RV10-List Digest Archive
>>> ---
>>> Total Messages Posted Sat 12/23/17: 2
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>> Today's Message Index:
>>> ----------------------
>>>
>>> 1. 07:54 PM - Alternator will not put out current (John Miller)
>>> 2. 09:11 PM - Re: Alternator will not put out current (Bob Turner)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________ Message 1 ___________________________
__________
>>>
>>>
>>> From: John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Alternator will not put out current
>>>
>>> Fellow RV10 guys.
>>>
>>> I am ready to fly the RV8 I have been building for the past 5 years, but
>>> I have an alternator issue maybe one of you can help with.
>>>
>>> The alternator I have installed is an Ultima (with internal voltage
>>> regulator) from O=99Reilly=99s auto parts store. My next
>>> door hangar mate has an RV7 with the same alternator setup.
>>>
>>> When I did my first ground engine run on Thursday, all worked fine
>>> except the alternator would not put out voltage.
>>>
>>> I double checked my connector plug wiring against my hangar mate's, and
>>> and made my connector wiring exactly the same as his is. Then I
>>> confirmed that I had 12v (with alt field switch on) to each of the 2
>>> connectors in the plug, plugged it into the alternator, and ran engine
>>> again but no voltage increase with the alt field switch on.
>>>
>>> With the alt field switch, there is no voltage to the connector, but
>>> there is batt voltage showing at the alternator output wire with the
>>> batt switch on.
>>>
>>> Friday, I pulled the alternator off and took it back to O=99Reilly
>>> =99s. It bench checked ok on their alternator tester. I also
>>> confirmed on their tester that the 2 connectors had 12v to them - it
>>> did. Then I had them order a new alternator anyway and it bench checked
>>> ok before I left the store..
>>>
>>> Put the new alternator on this am. Ops checked it this afternoon with
>>> an engine run and also ran a temp lead from the alternator output
>>> connector to a voltmeter. The alternator output never went above the
>>> battery voltage of 12.7v with the alt field switch on.
>>>
>>> Thinking it might be the connector plug that plugs into the back of the
>>> alternator, I changed out that plug for an older one I had with the
>>> original Denso alternator I had on my RV10. I confirmed that I had 12v
>>> to the 2 connectors with alt field switch on and ran the engine again -
>>> no voltage increase again!
>>>
>>> I am at wits end trying to get the alternator to put out voltage when
>>> the engine is runningany of you have suggestions?
>>>
>>> Thanks - Grumpy
>>> N184JM
>>>
>>> ________________________________ Message 2 ___________________________
__________
>>>
>>>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Alternator will not put out current
>>> From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
>>>
>>>
>>> My first suggestion is to get a real schematic for this alternator, not j
ust try
>>> to copy your neighbors plug.
>>> There are many different Ultima models.
>>> Do you have a good ground connection?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Bob Turner
>>> RV-10 QB
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476728#476728
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ========================
===========
>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List
>>> ========================
===========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ========================
===========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ========================
===========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
>>> ========================
===========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator will not put out current |
I had an alternator put out too much volts last year. Fried the LED trim
indicators and cost $500 each to repair the 2 Dynon screens. Autopilot
never worked quite right afterward and finally had to send it in for a
fix. There are 2 external ways to prevent overvoltage. One is a crowbar
device across the field circuit breaker to short it and make it pop on
overvoltage. The other is a circuit that looks at voltage and opens a
contactor in the alternator output on overvoltage. I put in both.
Albert (belt and suspenders) Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John MacCallum" <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator will not put out current |
I am not familiar with that Alternator. You say you have two wires
running to the connector both with 12 volts? Can you upload a photo of
the wiring diagram for the Alternator?
Also you will always have Battery Volts on the B + terminal whenever the
Master is on unless you have a big Diode in line with the Battery.
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV 10 # 41016
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: Sunday, 24 December 2017 2:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternator will not put out current
Fellow RV10 guys.
I am ready to fly the RV8 I have been building for the past 5 years, but
I have an alternator issue maybe one of you can help with.
The alternator I have installed is an Ultima (with internal voltage
regulator) from O=99Reilly=99s auto parts store. My next
door hangar mate has an RV7 with the same alternator setup.
When I did my first ground engine run on Thursday, all worked fine
except the alternator would not put out voltage.
I double checked my connector plug wiring against my hangar mate's, and
and made my connector wiring exactly the same as his is. Then I
confirmed that I had 12v (with alt field switch on) to each of the 2
connectors in the plug, plugged it into the alternator, and ran engine
again but no voltage increase with the alt field switch on.
With the alt field switch, there is no voltage to the connector, but
there is batt voltage showing at the alternator output wire with the
batt switch on.
Friday, I pulled the alternator off and took it back to
O=99Reilly=99s. It bench checked ok on their alternator
tester. I also confirmed on their tester that the 2 connectors had 12v
to them - it did. Then I had them order a new alternator anyway and it
bench checked ok before I left the store..
Put the new alternator on this am. Ops checked it this afternoon with
an engine run and also ran a temp lead from the alternator output
connector to a voltmeter. The alternator output never went above the
battery voltage of 12.7v with the alt field switch on.
Thinking it might be the connector plug that plugs into the back of the
alternator, I changed out that plug for an older one I had with the
original Denso alternator I had on my RV10. I confirmed that I had 12v
to the 2 connectors with alt field switch on and ran the engine again -
no voltage increase again!
I am at wits end trying to get the alternator to put out voltage when
the engine is runningany of you have suggestions?
Thanks - Grumpy
N184JM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator will not put out current |
Fellow RV10ers - thanks all for the tips. Found the issue and will post
for all to see.
On suggestion from one of the avionics dealers at Osh, they convinced my
partner last summer that we needed to have over-voltage protection on
the alternator to protect avionics.
So we bought one of the small crow-bar types from PlanePower and
installed per their instructions between the circuit breaker and the alt
field switch.
I chased ghosts for several days. Could always get 12v on the field
wire to the rear of the alternator.but that was not telling the
whole story. I needed to see if it was supplying enough amps to excite
the alt field. With the help of a local A&P, we jumped the alt field
wire to the connector prong on the rear of the alternator, then measured
volts at the alternator.should have been 12v..less
than 1v!
That led me back to something in the wiring must be allowing 12v voltage
to pass, but no amps to flow. Then I remembered the over-voltage
protection module I installed, and removed it from the wiring. Bingo!
Got a good 12v at the alternator connection followed by a good engine
run with alternator putting out 14.5v into the system!
I then checked with Christer at SteinAir (who built an RV8 a couple of
years back). He told me this:
1. He does not have such a device on his main alternator
2. He does have one on his little backup alternator mounted on the
vacuum pad
3. All the Garmin products are rated for up to 30v, so he doesn=99t
see a need for one if you are using Garmin stuff (did not discuss Dynon
stuff)
4. Set the voltage warning to 15v to warn you if the alternator starts
to run away (I also set my amp warning flags as well)
So, now all is ready for first flight - hopefully tomorrow when the cold
and winds let up some here in TN.
grumpy
N184JM
> On Dec 27, 2017, at 2:54 AM, John MacCallum
wrote:
>
> I am not familiar with that Alternator. You say you have two wires
running to the connector both with 12 volts? Can you upload a photo of
the wiring diagram for the Alternator?
> Also you will always have Battery Volts on the B + terminal whenever
the Master is on unless you have a big Diode in line with the Battery.
>
>
> Cheers
>
> John MacCallum
> VH-DUU
> RV 10 # 41016
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
] On Behalf Of John Miller
> Sent: Sunday, 24 December 2017 2:53 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Alternator will not put out current
>
> Fellow RV10 guys.
>
> I am ready to fly the RV8 I have been building for the past 5 years,
but I have an alternator issue maybe one of you can help with.
>
> The alternator I have installed is an Ultima (with internal voltage
regulator) from O=99Reilly=99s auto parts store. My next
door hangar mate has an RV7 with the same alternator setup.
>
> When I did my first ground engine run on Thursday, all worked fine
except the alternator would not put out voltage.
>
> I double checked my connector plug wiring against my hangar mate's,
and and made my connector wiring exactly the same as his is. Then I
confirmed that I had 12v (with alt field switch on) to each of the 2
connectors in the plug, plugged it into the alternator, and ran engine
again but no voltage increase with the alt field switch on.
>
> With the alt field switch, there is no voltage to the connector, but
there is batt voltage showing at the alternator output wire with the
batt switch on.
>
> Friday, I pulled the alternator off and took it back to
O=99Reilly=99s. It bench checked ok on their alternator
tester. I also confirmed on their tester that the 2 connectors had 12v
to them - it did. Then I had them order a new alternator anyway and it
bench checked ok before I left the store..
>
> Put the new alternator on this am. Ops checked it this afternoon with
an engine run and also ran a temp lead from the alternator output
connector to a voltmeter. The alternator output never went above the
battery voltage of 12.7v with the alt field switch on.
>
> Thinking it might be the connector plug that plugs into the back of
the alternator, I changed out that plug for an older one I had with the
original Denso alternator I had on my RV10. I confirmed that I had 12v
to the 2 connectors with alt field switch on and ran the engine again -
no voltage increase again!
>
> I am at wits end trying to get the alternator to put out voltage when
the engine is runningany of you have suggestions?
>
> Thanks - Grumpy
> N184JM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console |
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
Why not build your own ? 023 Ally is good to go with. Just make up side template
out of cardboard/mdf ply etc for full length, windscreen to baggage, then make
the whole thing from three pieces, sides and vent/lights etc surface. Small
lugs bent and pop rivets will hold it altogether and attach, then a sealing/strengthening
glass tape can be used on the joins. Your choice of headlining makes
it your own. Happy to give more info if needed. grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com
Cheers from Western Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476825#476825
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
Follow-up I am making sloooow progress on the nose gear shimmy issue. I
tightened the belleville nut to around 28 lbs, drilled new cotter pin hole,
added washer to the donut stack, went out and tried again.
Performed test, and got results so many reported....much better, but shimmy
still there at 12-16 kts. Borrowed a wheel balancer (Desser used to sell,
stand with axle, cones,external bearings) and sure enough, nose wheel
required the same 1.5 oz of wt. Some report lead wts hard to find. I used
steel wts, but likely will replace with lead later to better concentrate
the wt. Available lead weights:
http://www.matcomfg.com/WEIGHTLEADBALANCE-idv-3682-44.html
I note that with research, nose wheel shimmy is common, which may trigger
main gear shimmy. Many nose wheels require balancing, and almost all need
1.5 oz directly opposite the valve stem.
When I am satisfied that I have the balance as good as can get, will test
again. After reading reports that go back at least 8 years, the problem and
solutions are pretty uniform...belleville nut force, donut compression and
balancing of the wheel, with almost identical weight needed in same place.
I do have the correct Matco wheel and axle, and a Desser recap nose tire
with the tube that Tim recommends.
I will balance the mains after I rotate the tires for outside wear.
Kelly
P.S. From frigid Aridzona with 36 right now, going to 71 this afternoon.
No, I don't miss the -20 in MN and WI, nor the -50 from Fairbanks. 8^)
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 8:04 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Thanks Tim. Yes, I had 3 friends observe my taxi in from last flight and
> comment on how much the nose wheel was shimmying.
> Yes, I have had main gear shimmy in the past. Nose is at lower speed and
> higher frequency shimmy.
> I'll check with the fish scale, get somewhere around 25-30 lb pull and
> then drill new hole.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 7:54 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> I have 2 holes in my gear leg to provide for a little more
>> adjustment precision. No big deal on that.
>>
>> Are you 100% sure that the shimmy is nosewheel? I really doubt
>> it is. Almost everyone who has a shimmy, has it in the
>> mains, although it FEELS like a nosewheel shimmy. I really
>> don't find much for issue with the nosewheel at all, other
>> than making sure you have a good breakout force on the
>> rotation. And, of course, there is that need to take out the
>> play of the donuts occasionally. I can't remember how many
>> I have in there, but at least 2.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 12/18/2017 08:40 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>> Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something about. Of course
>>> I reviewed my archives and Tim's website as refresher.
>>> Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I could not
>>> tighten the big nut to the next flat, so the amount of pull is irrelevant
>>> at the moment.
>>> Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
>>> Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose gear leg,
>>> which I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am at about 130 hours).
>>> Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I have done
>>> the service bulletin upgrade, and there was no play at the time.
>>> I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and balance the
>>> nose wheel. Then do the mains at annual condition inspection.
>>> Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an intermediate
>>> cotter pin position for the pivot nut?
>>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Sounds good on the progress Kelly. Wish I was in your
frigid location...our high yesterday was -1F, and today it's
a bit warmer but it comes with crappy weather. We won't be seeing
20F for any time in the 7 day forecast.
Regarding the recap tires, I've used recaps from Desser for the
mains, and also started using the 5" recaps for the RV-14 mains
as well, but I've never used them for the nosewheel yet. I've
always used the standard Van's Aero Classic on the nose. I've only
had to replace one, just one time, in 11 years on the RV-10, and
I did that when I swapped wheels to the proper wheel, so I
still have my original wheel and tire in the hangar as a spare
for either plane.
I do like the recaps on the mains. Saves money and seem to last
longer with the extra thickness. I think I used Monster 5"
on the RV-14 mains...did require opening up the fairings a bit
for their size. On the -10 I've used the 15-6.00 "High Performance
Retread" that they sell, not the monster.
Tim
On 12/28/2017 7:37 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Follow-up I am making sloooow progress on the nose gear shimmy issue. I
> tightened the belleville nut to around 28 lbs, drilled new cotter pin
> hole, added washer to the donut stack, went out and tried again.
> Performed test, and got results so many reported....much better, but
> shimmy still there at 12-16 kts. Borrowed a wheel balancer (Desser used
> to sell, stand with axle, cones,external bearings) and sure enough, nose
> wheel required the same 1.5 oz of wt. Some report lead wts hard to
> find. I used steel wts, but likely will replace with lead later to
> better concentrate the wt. Available lead weights:
> http://www.matcomfg.com/WEIGHTLEADBALANCE-idv-3682-44.html
> I note that with research, nose wheel shimmy is common, which may
> trigger main gear shimmy. Many nose wheels require balancing, and almost
> all need 1.5 oz directly opposite the valve stem.
> When I am satisfied that I have the balance as good as can get, will
> test again. After reading reports that go back at least 8 years, the
> problem and solutions are pretty uniform...belleville nut force, donut
> compression and balancing of the wheel, with almost identical weight
> needed in same place. I do have the correct Matco wheel and axle, and a
> Desser recap nose tire with the tube that Tim recommends.
> I will balance the mains after I rotate the tires for outside wear.
> Kelly
>
> P.S. From frigid Aridzona with 36 right now, going to 71 this afternoon.
> No, I don't miss the -20 in MN and WI, nor the -50 from Fairbanks. 8^)
>
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 8:04 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
> Thanks Tim. Yes, I had 3 friends observe my taxi in from last flight
> and comment on how much the nose wheel was shimmying.
> Yes, I have had main gear shimmy in the past. Nose is at lower speed
> and higher frequency shimmy.
> I'll check with the fish scale, get somewhere around 25-30 lb pull
> and then drill new hole.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 7:54 AM, Tim Olson > wrote:
>
>
> I have 2 holes in my gear leg to provide for a little more
> adjustment precision. No big deal on that.
>
> Are you 100% sure that the shimmy is nosewheel? I really doubt
> it is. Almost everyone who has a shimmy, has it in the
> mains, although it FEELS like a nosewheel shimmy. I really
> don't find much for issue with the nosewheel at all, other
> than making sure you have a good breakout force on the
> rotation. And, of course, there is that need to take out the
> play of the donuts occasionally. I can't remember how many
> I have in there, but at least 2.
> Tim
>
>
>
>
> On 12/18/2017 08:40 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Well, mine has gotten noticeable enough to do something
> about. Of course I reviewed my archives and Tim's website as
> refresher.
> Taking the cowling off and checking things I found that I
> could not tighten the big nut to the next flat, so the
> amount of pull is irrelevant at the moment.
> Has anyone tried new Belleville washers?
> Secondly, I noticed about a 1/4" of up/down play on the nose
> gear leg, which I assume is compression of the donuts. (I am
> at about 130 hours).
> Will check today to see if another washer is needed. Yes, I
> have done the service bulletin upgrade, and there was no
> play at the time.
> I guess the next step will be to get a wheel balancer and
> balance the nose wheel. Then do the mains at annual
> condition inspection.
> Has anyone drilled the bottom of the gear leg to get an
> intermediate cotter pin position for the pivot nut?
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I thought I wrote Minus 20.
I remember walking to grade school in EauClaire uphill both ways through
3' of snow at -30f. (wink, wink)
Kelly
You could be in AZ in 8 hours with that magic 10 or 14.
On 12/28/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Sounds good on the progress Kelly. Wish I was in your
> frigid location...our high yesterday was -1F, and today it's
> a bit warmer but it comes with crappy weather. We won't be seeing
> 20F for any time in the 7 day forecast.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Yeah, it isn't so bad right now. It's when it's lower than -20
that it gets more painful. I'm thinking of going for a swim
in the Chippewa today. :)
That really is the beauty of the RV-10, folks. I tell people
all the time that from where I live, I can be anywhere in the
lower 48 in 12 hours or less. There's no excuse not to travel
by RV with the capabilities these planes have.
(although today I'd need known icing to get out of here I think)
Tim
On 12/28/2017 8:28 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I thought I wrote Minus 20.
> I remember walking to grade school in EauClaire uphill both ways through
> 3' of snow at -30f. (wink, wink)
> Kelly
> You could be in AZ in 8 hours with that magic 10 or 14.
>
> On 12/28/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Sounds good on the progress Kelly. Wish I was in your
>> frigid location...our high yesterday was -1F, and today it's
>> a bit warmer but it comes with crappy weather. We won't be seeing
>> 20F for any time in the 7 day forecast.
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The old nose wheel shimmy issue |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Yeah, at about -20 the Chippewa starts emitting fog.
Talk of small world, the A&P I borrowed the wheel balancer from grew up
less than 3 blocks from the house I grew up in, in EauClaire, went to
same grade school, about 4 yrs behind me, now works as mechanic at
Chandler Airport.
On 12/28/2017 7:38 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Yeah, it isn't so bad right now. It's when it's lower than -20
> that it gets more painful. I'm thinking of going for a swim
> in the Chippewa today. :)
>
> That really is the beauty of the RV-10, folks. I tell people
> all the time that from where I live, I can be anywhere in the
> lower 48 in 12 hours or less. There's no excuse not to travel
> by RV with the capabilities these planes have.
> (although today I'd need known icing to get out of here I think)
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 12/28/2017 8:28 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> I thought I wrote Minus 20.
>> I remember walking to grade school in EauClaire uphill both ways
>> through 3' of snow at -30f. (wink, wink)
>> Kelly
>> You could be in AZ in 8 hours with that magic 10 or 14.
>>
>> On 12/28/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> Sounds good on the progress Kelly. Wish I was in your
>>> frigid location...our high yesterday was -1F, and today it's
>>> a bit warmer but it comes with crappy weather. We won't be seeing
>>> 20F for any time in the 7 day forecast.
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Configuration |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
This can be tricky and is dependent on a lot of other things, like autopilot, comms,
GPS, ADS-B, and sensors, just to name a few. It is also dependent on your
wiring, since there is some flexibility in where things attach.
Contact me offline at flymoore(at)charter.net
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477028#477028
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Configuration |
Not to mention that figuring out how to configure the EFIS is one of the
major ways to become familiar with the system,
so that by first flight the EFIS isn't one of the new items you are testing.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Tue, Jan 2, 2018 at 5:38 PM, nukeflyboy wrote:
>
> This can be tricky and is dependent on a lot of other things, like
> autopilot, comms, GPS, ADS-B, and sensors, just to name a few. It is also
> dependent on your wiring, since there is some flexibility in where things
> attach.
>
> Contact me offline at flymoore(at)charter.net
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 built and sold
> RV-10 built and flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477028#477028
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Configuration |
Kelly
I know that, and I already have done several steps of the configuration, but
my idea is to compare data and check if I=99ve done something wrong (
for example I=99m not getting the Nav/Comm radio to comunica-te with t
he GDU) or if I should configurate things differently (better).
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 03/01/2018, =C3-s 01:57, Kelly McMullen escreve
u:
> Not to mention that figuring out how to configure the EFIS is one of the m
ajor ways to become familiar with the system,
> so that by first flight the EFIS isn't one of the new items you are testin
g.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
>> On Tue, Jan 2, 2018 at 5:38 PM, nukeflyboy wrote:
>>
>> This can be tricky and is dependent on a lot of other things, like autopi
lot, comms, GPS, ADS-B, and sensors, just to name a few. It is also depende
nt on your wiring, since there is some flexibility in where things attach.
>>
>> Contact me offline at flymoore(at)charter.net
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Moore
>> RV-6 built and sold
>> RV-10 built and flying
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477028#477028
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
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>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
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>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fritzsche" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
What tool are people using to cut the window openings? The curves are
too tight for a cutoff wheel and an oscillating tool works great for
straight cuts but does not want to cut the curves either.
David Fritzsche
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I used a combination of the cutoff wheel and small (1") sanding drum on my high
speed drill. For smaller holes I used the same types of tools with my Dremel.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David J. Fritzsche
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 3:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Canopy Trimming
-->
What tool are people using to cut the window openings? The curves are too tight
for a cutoff wheel and an oscillating tool works great for straight cuts but
does not want to cut the curves either.
David Fritzsche
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Trimming |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Yes, you can get 1 or 2" cut off wheels for the Dremel. The sanding
drums are good for the final 1/8-1/16" you need to smooth out.
On 1/3/2018 4:09 PM, Rene wrote:
>
> I used a combination of the cutoff wheel and small (1") sanding drum on my high
speed drill. For smaller holes I used the same types of tools with my Dremel.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Trimming |
The best thing I found was the cutoff wheel, then substituting a jigsaw with
a fiberglass cutting blade for the curves.
-----Original Message-----
From: David J. Fritzsche
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 5:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Canopy Trimming
What tool are people using to cut the window openings? The curves are
too tight for a cutoff wheel and an oscillating tool works great for
straight cuts but does not want to cut the curves either.
David Fritzsche
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Trimming |
I used the half moon vibrating cutter to do most of the cuts. Just the corner of
it like a blade. Then I used a power file in the tight radius bends.
Cheers John MacCallum
RV10
VH DUU
> On 4 Jan 2018, at 10:09, Rene wrote:
>
>
> I used a combination of the cutoff wheel and small (1") sanding drum on my high
speed drill. For smaller holes I used the same types of tools with my Dremel.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David J. Fritzsche
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 3:53 PM
> To: RV-10 Matronics
> Subject: RV10-List: Canopy Trimming
>
> -->
>
> What tool are people using to cut the window openings? The curves are too tight
for a cutoff wheel and an oscillating tool works great for straight cuts but
does not want to cut the curves either.
>
> David Fritzsche
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Trimming |
| From: | "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com> |
I used a PermaGrit jigsaw blade. Cuts through the fiberglass like butter and has
none of the dust of a cutoff wheel.
All of the PermaGrit tools are highly recommended...they make working on the fiberglass
MUCH easier...
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/Perma-Grit_Jig_Saw_Blades/Supplies_Tools_Laminate_Cutting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477241#477241
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Step modification |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Previously I read posts about an aluminum insert to reinforce the step. Any know
where I find that modification?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477345#477345
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Step modification |
http://www.tcwtech.com/rv-10_construction_project.html
On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 10:04 AM whodja wrote:
>
> Previously I read posts about an aluminum insert to reinforce the step.
> Any know where I find that modification?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477345#477345
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Step modification |
We sell the insert on our web site.
Www.tcwtech.com.
Rv-10 step bushings.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
610-928-3420
> On Jan 16, 2018, at 10:58 AM, whodja wrote:
>
>
> Previously I read posts about an aluminum insert to reinforce the step. Any know
where I find that modification?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477345#477345
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Step modification |
I got mine from Bob Newman.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Bob Condrey
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 11:08:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Step modification
http://www.tcwtech.com/rv-10_construction_project.html
On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 10:04 AM whodja > wrote:
mail.com>>
Previously I read posts about an aluminum insert to reinforce the step. Any
know where I find that modification?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477345#477345
-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RV10-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Step modification |
I made mine from a short length of steel pipe radiused on the ends and
epoxied in place with JB -Weld. Use a notched stick with a strap around
the end to slide it into place inside the step tube.
On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 11:39 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> I got mine from Bob Newman.
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com matronics.com> on behalf of Bob Condrey
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 16, 2018 11:08:52 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Step modification
>
> http://www.tcwtech.com/rv-10_construction_project.html
>
> On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 10:04 AM whodja wrote:
>
>>
>> Previously I read posts about an aluminum insert to reinforce the step.
>> Any know where I find that modification?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477345#477345
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.
>> matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Step modification |
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
As well as the various inserts, going up a size from the -3 bolt is a good idea
considering the loads that can be imposed on the step.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477363#477363
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Jennings <tjennings07(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
Just received my -10 empennage kit and got started building the VS. I am
wondering what is the best cat whisker antenna/model number to mount in the
top of the tail that others have had success with and also wondering if
static wicks are necessary or overkill?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
None. Put an Archer antenna in a wingtip. Almost as good as a cat whisker, gain
1/4 knot speed, wont poke your eye out.
Most builders seem to go without static wicks. I havent heard of any static problems,
but, never say never.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477393#477393
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
I have a standard "V" antenna on top of the vertical stabilizer, and a Bob Archer
antenna in a wingtip (two NAV radios and I didn't want to reduce signal with
a splitter). They both work well, though the traditional antenna on the tail
does pick up stations further away.
I don't have static wicks on my aircraft - at least so far, I haven't experienced
any problems that might be attributable to static buildup.
Dan
> On 2018-Jan-17, at 8:11 PM, Tim Jennings wrote:
>
> Just received my -10 empennage kit and got started building the VS. I am wondering
what is the best cat whisker antenna/model number to mount in the top of
the tail that others have had success with and also wondering if static wicks
are necessary or overkill?
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I went with 2 Archer antennas, one in each wingtip so I wouldn't need a
splitter. There was a time when having 120 nm range at 10,000 ft was
important for victor airways in the west, but in today's GPS environment
more than 50 nm range is unlikely to be used. Both antennas work equally
well for ILS, but put centerline about 15 ft one side or the other. ;>)
Static wicks might make sense if you plan on doing a lot of flying
inside snow or very dry clouds. With the 10's capabilities, I want to
either be on top of clouds or well underneath. Slogging along for long
periods below 10K in clouds and precip is to be avoided to my way of
thinking. Sure, there can be times that other factors might give that
result, but the -10 climbs so well that you should be able to get on top
unless there is significant vertical activity, and I want to stay away
from those convective conditions.
Even pilots flying actively for business are unlikely to spend much more
than 10% of flight time in actual IMC. Static wicks are magnets for
damage and maintenance expense. And you have to adjust the balance of
control surfaces to account for their weight. JMHO
On 1/17/2018 11:06 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> I have a standard "V" antenna on top of the vertical stabilizer, and a Bob Archer
antenna in a wingtip (two NAV radios and I didn't want to reduce signal with
a splitter). They both work well, though the traditional antenna on the tail
does pick up stations further away.
>
> I don't have static wicks on my aircraft - at least so far, I haven't experienced
any problems that might be attributable to static buildup.
>
> Dan
>
>> On 2018-Jan-17, at 8:11 PM, Tim Jennings wrote:
>>
>> Just received my -10 empennage kit and got started building the VS. I am wondering
what is the best cat whisker antenna/model number to mount in the top
of the tail that others have had success with and also wondering if static wicks
are necessary or overkill?
>
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
You'll want to first decide how much IFR flying you really plan to do
with the plane. If you aren't going to be flying IFR, I'd just throw
an Archer antenna in. If you're going to be real interested in doing
IFR flying, I'd really consider the whiskers.
I mounted one of these CI-157P antennas (I think that's the one I
used but it's been a while) underneath the tail.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/comant157p.php
It gives me at minimum 25% better range of reception with no
less worry about being shaded by the airframe depending on where
the station is. The archer has the disadvantage of only truly
having the best positioning for reception when the station is on
the same side of the airplane as the antenna. Position the
station on the opposite side and reception will get much worse.
I've compared mine in flight many times over the years and
it's definite that the range will be better with whiskers.
If you're going to mount them on the bottom, you won't need to worry
about removable elements.
If you want it on the top, you may want to consider the
CI-158C or CI-158C-2 or similar, where you can remove the elements.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/comant158c.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/comantci158c.php
I know people who have cut the holes in the top of the VS to mount the
antenna. The slots if you use slots would go through the upper rib
though, which could weaken it, so I'd get one with removable
elements so you can just put holes in for the elements to attach through.
Regarding static wicks, I've always wanted to have them on my
plane but haven't installed any yet. I've paid the price a few
times, having p-static build up while in the clouds and ended up
with radios that got fuzzed up or snap and pop and odd things
like that. But it's only happened a few times that I've been
sure that's what was happening. So while think it's a good
idea, I'm not ready to call it a "must do". If you do it, there
is a document out there that someone worked out that shows a
possible placement on the RV-10. I don't know anyone yet who's
installed them all like that though.
Hope that helps,
Tim
On 01/17/2018 09:11 PM, Tim Jennings wrote:
> Just received my -10 empennage kit and got started building the VS. I
> am wondering what is the best cat whisker antenna/model number to mount
> in the top of the tail that others have had success with and also
> wondering if static wicks are necessary or overkill?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I used to have Archer antennas in each wing tip, one for each radio. After loosing
the glide slope signal several times during the turn to final, I decided
to add a cat wisker antenna on the belly, which cured the issue. The Archer antenna
is directional, and while it performed just fine for VOR reception, it was
not as solid as I would like it for the ILS approaches.
IRT static wicks. I installed mine from day 1 and I have never had any P-static
issues. I have heard now of three instances of airframe static on the RV-10,
which was cured with the installation of static wicks. If you do a search on
VAF you should be able to find the posts.
You won't find a production certified IFR aircraft without them, and if you are
serious about flying IMC, then IMHO they should be installed. Dayton-Grainger
has a drawing with recommended locations for the RV-10, posted below.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477404#477404
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dayton_granger_rv10_146.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Tim,
I'm curious as to what benefits you see from additional range on your
VOR. If flying an airway, I just select that on my GTN 650 and fly it. I
guess if using a GNS430/530 I would just plug in the fixes that defined
the entry and exit of the airway. While I monitor the VOR with my SL30,
can't say that I have noticed a situation where I was out of range with
either VOR, but I only use the VOR as primary nav when flying a VOR
approach these days. Can't say that I have seen airframe blocking
either, but haven't really looked for it.
Gone are the days when I flew IFR with 1 nav/comm and 1 ADF as my total
nav capability.
On 1/18/2018 7:44 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> You'll want to first decide how much IFR flying you really plan to do
> with the plane. If you aren't going to be flying IFR, I'd just throw
> an Archer antenna in. If you're going to be real interested in doing
> IFR flying, I'd really consider the whiskers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Not true re production built, type certified aircraft. I flew a 1965
Mooney M20E, for 18 years, which uses the same speeds except about 10
kts slower in cruise, IFR whenever needed. It was factory IFR approved.
I know there are plenty of others. In the time few the Mooney I might
have experience a little static once. I see the need when cruise starts
approaching 200 kts, but otherwise consider it a nice to have that I
would put near the bottom of my wish list.
On 1/18/2018 7:56 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
> You won't find a production certified IFR aircraft without them, and if you are
serious about flying IMC, then IMHO they should be installed. Dayton-Grainger
has a drawing with recommended locations for the RV-10, posted below.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Kelly,
In my case it was a matter of losing the GS signal during approach that caused
me to re-think the Archer antenna solution. The Archer antennas are somewhat
directional, and apparently at a specific bank and turn angle were causing lose
of signal for me. As for VOR reception it worked great.
Bill
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477407#477407
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I guess, just haven't seen it with my radios, so far. I can't imagine
making enough bank while on approach that would blank line of sight to
either wing tip. As I said, I have nav antenna in each wing tip, each
connected to a single nav-com with ILS. But I pretty much have to leave
AZ to fly IFR for real.....
Kelly
On 1/18/2018 8:11 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
> Kelly,
> In my case it was a matter of losing the GS signal during approach that caused
me to re-think the Archer antenna solution. The Archer antennas are somewhat
directional, and apparently at a specific bank and turn angle were causing lose
of signal for me. As for VOR reception it worked great.
> Bill
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477407#477407
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
For me it all comes down to one thing, basically that echos what
Bill Peyton brought up right after your reply.
IFR is serious business. Sure, we're allowed, as experimental builders,
to do some things with our equipment that is not up to part 23
standards, but we do ourselves no favors by doing anything that
hurts performance. For me, it makes me cringe when I hear about
someone being so concerned about aesthetics that they would rather
hide every antenna than have the best performance available. They'll
hide a GPS antenna under the engine cowl, for their WASS Beta 3
capable LPV Approach GPS, rather than mount it as level as possible
with a full view of the sky, on the highest point of the aircraft.
I personally feel that when people do such things, with their
higher end IFR equipment, that they are being irresponsible.
On the same note, I view comments by people who are so 100% trusting
of their GPS, that they would say things like "Why even bother
installing a NAV radio", and just as short sighted and uninformed.
The fact is, once you are up inside a cloud with your airplane, the
lives of you and your passengers while flying IFR are largely in
control of the quality of the technology you installed, and the
methods you installed it with, with a huge additional factor of
your own personal skill and experience. In todays world, if GPS
is not functioning, such as the very recent GPS jamming that
was going to happen in the South East Coast area, the impact
on your ability to continue safely and successfully a flight is
hindered. You need to be fully willing, if you fly in IMC, to
be ready to use whatever alternate nav means necessary to provide
a safe ending to your flight. If that means tuning in a VOR
(or two, when off airway, to triangulate your position and find
where you are) and then flying an ILS to minimums, so be it.
So short and simple, I think it's taking short cuts and
being a little irresponsible and goes against a philosophy of
safety to make performance compromises on your navigational
equipment, if that equipment could be used for instrument approaches.
95% of the time, it won't matter if you have an archer
or whiskers antennas, but philosophically I can't see cutting
corners on a 4-seat RV-10. I did make that compromise on
my RV-14, but the number of lives in those seats is
smaller, and to be honest, I still feel uneasy with the
compromise. And for me, if it's an IFR day, I'd be taking the
RV-10 in most cases anyway.
With the Feds cutting the number of VOR stations over time,
the impact will be absolutely unmanageable in the event of a widespread
GPS issue. Every airliner and airplane in the sky will be looking
for the the handful of fallback airports, and the controllers would
likely not be able to handle the quantities of traffic to those
airports. So I'm not much of a fan of getting rid of all of the
VORs either.
Anyway, with GPS available, it's awesome to use, but if someone
is serious about flying IFR, take it seriously and build your
aircraft to FAR 23 specs or better, and install for best performance,
not best cosmetics.
Tim
On 01/18/2018 08:55 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Tim,
> I'm curious as to what benefits you see from additional range on your
> VOR. If flying an airway, I just select that on my GTN 650 and fly it. I
> guess if using a GNS430/530 I would just plug in the fixes that defined
> the entry and exit of the airway. While I monitor the VOR with my SL30,
> can't say that I have noticed a situation where I was out of range with
> either VOR, but I only use the VOR as primary nav when flying a VOR
> approach these days. Can't say that I have seen airframe blocking
> either, but haven't really looked for it.
> Gone are the days when I flew IFR with 1 nav/comm and 1 ADF as my total
> nav capability.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
Just my 2 centsstatic discharge is more art than
science. I considered it because of static problems I had in our
club=99s 182=99s which had static wicks. After looking at
what needed to be done, static wicks and bonding straps, and the long
term maintenance requirements I choose not to do it. I have had limited
IFR time in my airplane, but have not experienced any problems. Flying
since 2008.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Jennings
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2018 8:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks
Just received my -10 empennage kit and got started building the VS. I
am wondering what is the best cat whisker antenna/model number to mount
in the top of the tail that others have had success with and also
wondering if static wicks are necessary or overkill?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Well stated Tim. My sentiments exactly!
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477412#477412
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
And one more variable... the Archer Nav antenna is very finicky about how
it=99s installed. I=99ve seen a LOT that weren=99t done
very well and had
resulting degraded performance. Most issues I=99ve seen were routing
of
wiring (not along the antenna leading edge) and the antenna not as far
forward as possible. For those with heat shielding for halogen wingtip
landing lights, the antenna should be as close as possible to the shielding
material without actually touching (that info direct from Bob Archer
himself several years ago). Finally, I=99ve seen creative installs w
here the
strip along the wing edge wasn=99t fully electrically connected to th
e wing
(either under the nutplates or direct to the outboard rib).
Bob
On Thu, Jan 18, 2018 at 9:38 AM bill.peyton wrote:
>
> Well stated Tim. My sentiments exactly!
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477412#477412
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Parish Moffitt" <parish(at)parishmoffitt.com> |
| Subject: | VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
To echo Tim, and add on a little here. I think one must realistically look at their
abilities and their mission profile for the airplane. Not only is there a
difference between VFR and IFR but there is a difference between IFR and IFR
to 200 and a half on both ends where the total time for the flight is the amount
you put in your logbook as actual IFR. I tell people all the time I am building
my airplane to practically CAT II standards as I shoot approaches to 600ft
RVR on a regular basis and feel comfortable doing so. Someone who flies through
a 2000 ft overcast layer a few times a year might not have the same comfort
level. I think you also need to look at where you live as well. Do you live
in AZ, then a less capable IFR setup is not that big of a deal. Do you live in
Seattle? Can we install auto land in this thing, LOL? I live in the Carolinas
and know we can get socked in from time to time for 2 or 3 days straight.
To add one more point for the original poster and this goes to the VOR antennae
discussion. Where do you plan to fly your airplane? If you plan to do any flying
outside the USA and in particular to some of the remote Caribbean locations,
having a good VOR antennae is paramount as that may be your only means of listening
to flight service. Also some airports here in the states still use VORs
to transmit the ATIS, Scranton PA for instance. I used to love it when I was
flying at the regional airline and watching my FO try to figure out how to get
the com radio to go to 108 or 110 point something.
My airplane will have a whisker up top. I placed a doubler plate on the top rib
and installed nut plates for the RAMI ant.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/ramiav525.php?recfer=11262
I have also installed the static wicks per Mouser/ Dayton Grangers instructions.
I have chosen to reduce my cost a little and gone with non-cert wicks at 26$
each rather than 47$. Just don't forget the bonding straps between the control
surfaces and the fixed surfaces.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/esd3staticwick.php?clickkey=6974
http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/staticwicks.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2018 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks
For me it all comes down to one thing, basically that echos what Bill Peyton brought
up right after your reply.
IFR is serious business. Sure, we're allowed, as experimental builders, to do
some things with our equipment that is not up to part 23 standards, but we do
ourselves no favors by doing anything that hurts performance. For me, it makes
me cringe when I hear about someone being so concerned about aesthetics that
they would rather hide every antenna than have the best performance available.
They'll hide a GPS antenna under the engine cowl, for their WASS Beta 3 capable
LPV Approach GPS, rather than mount it as level as possible with a full view
of the sky, on the highest point of the aircraft.
I personally feel that when people do such things, with their higher end IFR equipment,
that they are being irresponsible.
On the same note, I view comments by people who are so 100% trusting of their GPS,
that they would say things like "Why even bother installing a NAV radio",
and just as short sighted and uninformed.
The fact is, once you are up inside a cloud with your airplane, the lives of you
and your passengers while flying IFR are largely in control of the quality of
the technology you installed, and the methods you installed it with, with a
huge additional factor of your own personal skill and experience. In todays world,
if GPS is not functioning, such as the very recent GPS jamming that was
going to happen in the South East Coast area, the impact on your ability to continue
safely and successfully a flight is hindered. You need to be fully willing,
if you fly in IMC, to be ready to use whatever alternate nav means necessary
to provide a safe ending to your flight. If that means tuning in a VOR (or
two, when off airway, to triangulate your position and find where you are) and
then flying an ILS to minimums, so be it.
So short and simple, I think it's taking short cuts and being a little irresponsible
and goes against a philosophy of safety to make performance compromises
on your navigational equipment, if that equipment could be used for instrument
approaches.
95% of the time, it won't matter if you have an archer or whiskers antennas, but
philosophically I can't see cutting corners on a 4-seat RV-10. I did make that
compromise on my RV-14, but the number of lives in those seats is smaller,
and to be honest, I still feel uneasy with the compromise. And for me, if it's
an IFR day, I'd be taking the
RV-10 in most cases anyway.
With the Feds cutting the number of VOR stations over time, the impact will be
absolutely unmanageable in the event of a widespread GPS issue. Every airliner
and airplane in the sky will be looking for the the handful of fallback airports,
and the controllers would likely not be able to handle the quantities of
traffic to those airports. So I'm not much of a fan of getting rid of all of
the VORs either.
Anyway, with GPS available, it's awesome to use, but if someone is serious about
flying IFR, take it seriously and build your aircraft to FAR 23 specs or better,
and install for best performance, not best cosmetics.
Tim
On 01/18/2018 08:55 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Tim,
> I'm curious as to what benefits you see from additional range on your
> VOR. If flying an airway, I just select that on my GTN 650 and fly it.
> I guess if using a GNS430/530 I would just plug in the fixes that
> defined the entry and exit of the airway. While I monitor the VOR with
> my SL30, can't say that I have noticed a situation where I was out of
> range with either VOR, but I only use the VOR as primary nav when
> flying a VOR approach these days. Can't say that I have seen airframe
> blocking either, but haven't really looked for it.
> Gone are the days when I flew IFR with 1 nav/comm and 1 ADF as my
> total nav capability.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
bcondrey wrote:
> And one more variable... the Archer Nav antenna is very finicky about how its
installed. Ive seen a LOT that werent done very well and had resulting degraded
performance. Most issues Ive seen were routing of wiring (not along the antenna
leading edge) and the antenna not as far forward as possible. For those with
heat shielding for halogen wingtip landing lights, the antenna should be as
close as possible to the shielding material without actually touching (that
info direct from Bob Archer himself several years ago). Finally, Ive seen creative
installs where the strip along the wing edge wasnt fully electrically connected
to the wing (either under the nutplates or direct to the outboard rib).
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> > -->
> >
> >
>
I agree 100% with Bobs post, above. I have personally seen installations where
the ground leg was 8 away from the rib, and connected to it by a piece of wire.
Ive also seen one that was backwards, with the ground leg out in the wing tip,
and the radiating leg attached to the rib! Little wonder some report poor performance.
Ideally these need to be installed with proper test equipment; lacking
that, at least a working knowledge of what is important and what is not.
As an aside, I have my backup com on an Archer. Due to the difficulty getting
vertical polarization out in the wing tip, it is not as good as my external whip.
However, it is nowhere near as bad as many others report. I believe this is
100% installation related.
Tim: I agree with much of what you wrote. IFR is serious business. I would never
install my primary nav antenna (gps) contrary to the manufacturers instructions,
even if it wasnt technically illegal to do so. I would not accept my Archer
nav antenna if my GS dropped out on a turn to final (it doesnt). I wouldnt
accept it if I couldnt pick up a VOR 50 nm away (I can). But I am willing to accept
that 50 nm range is about the limit in the 3 oclock direction (antenna is
in the left wingtip). At the same time, there are some downsides to cats whiskers.
They need matching networks, which seem to attract moisture over time.
A walk around my home field will probably turn up one with a missing element.
Theyre ice magnets. And people washing airplanes really do poke themselves on
them! As the saying goes, engineering is the art of compromise. Everyone flying
in IMC needs to carefully consider the consequences of their choices.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477425#477425
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
Bob T
I agree that many amongst us dont install the Archer antennae right, but that is
also due to the poor instructions which come with them...
That is why I looked thoroughly for pictures of well installed Archer antennae.
Once again: one picture worths more than a thousand words
Cheers
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 18/01/2018, s 20:34, Bob Turner escreveu:
>
>
> bcondrey wrote:
>> And one more variable... the Archer Nav antenna is very finicky about how its
installed. Ive seen a LOT that werent done very well and had resulting degraded
performance. Most issues Ive seen were routing of wiring (not along the
antenna leading edge) and the antenna not as far forward as possible. For those
with heat shielding for halogen wingtip landing lights, the antenna should
be as close as possible to the shielding material without actually touching (that
info direct from Bob Archer himself several years ago). Finally, Ive seen
creative installs where the strip along the wing edge wasnt fully electrically
connected to the wing (either under the nutplates or direct to the outboard
rib).
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>> -->
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> I agree 100% with Bobs post, above. I have personally seen installations where
the ground leg was 8 away from the rib, and connected to it by a piece of wire.
Ive also seen one that was backwards, with the ground leg out in the wing
tip, and the radiating leg attached to the rib! Little wonder some report poor
performance. Ideally these need to be installed with proper test equipment; lacking
that, at least a working knowledge of what is important and what is not.
As an aside, I have my backup com on an Archer. Due to the difficulty getting
vertical polarization out in the wing tip, it is not as good as my external
whip. However, it is nowhere near as bad as many others report. I believe this
is 100% installation related.
> Tim: I agree with much of what you wrote. IFR is serious business. I would never
install my primary nav antenna (gps) contrary to the manufacturers instructions,
even if it wasnt technically illegal to do so. I would not accept my Archer
nav antenna if my GS dropped out on a turn to final (it doesnt). I wouldnt
accept it if I couldnt pick up a VOR 50 nm away (I can). But I am willing to
accept that 50 nm range is about the limit in the 3 oclock direction (antenna
is in the left wingtip). At the same time, there are some downsides to cats whiskers.
They need matching networks, which seem to attract moisture over time.
A walk around my home field will probably turn up one with a missing element.
Theyre ice magnets. And people washing airplanes really do poke themselves on
them! As the saying goes, engineering is the art of compromise. Everyone flying
in IMC needs to carefully consider the consequences of their choices.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477425#477425
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
Bob I agree a lot with what you said. I contacted Bob Archer when I wasn't
clear on the instructions and wanted to know what was critical. My point
was as you say, 50 nm range is generally acceptable for VOR in the lower
48. (I routinely flew IFR a non-radar route in Alaska that had the midpoint
cross-over 110 nm from each VOR and cat whiskers were needed and GPS didn't
exist).
I have seen the Archer antenna performance degrade more than 50% when the
wing tip was painted with metallic paint. I see no drop out of ILS, even
where my localizer intercept is about 12 nm out and GS intercept around 8
nm out. To some degree this is also the same argument of whether to use
RG58 for VHF radios or RG-400. (totally different requirements than
transponder and GPS that operate at and above 978 Mhz.) Sure, I'd like to
have radar altimeter and Cat III approved autopilot...but I don't need
either one, and have no problem planning legs that have forecast above Cat
I minimums and alternates that at least meet alternate requirements or
better. Yes, my IFR GPS antenna install is strictly in accordance with
TSO/manufacturer's requirements, on top of the canopy, not under anything.
Kelly
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Thu, Jan 18, 2018 at 1:34 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> bcondrey wrote:
> > And one more variable... the Archer Nav antenna is very finicky about
> how it=99s installed. I=99ve seen a LOT that weren=99t
done very well and had
> resulting degraded performance. Most issues I=99ve seen were routi
ng of
> wiring (not along the antenna leading edge) and the antenna not as far
> forward as possible. For those with heat shielding for halogen wingtip
> landing lights, the antenna should be as close as possible to the shieldi
ng
> material without actually touching (that info direct from Bob Archer
> himself several years ago). Finally, I=99ve seen creative installs
where the
> strip along the wing edge wasn=99t fully electrically connected to
the wing
> (either under the nutplates or direct to the outboard rib).
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > > -->
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> I agree 100% with Bob=99s post, above. I have personally seen insta
llations
> where the ground leg was 8=9D away from the rib, and connected to i
t by a
> piece of wire. I=99ve also seen one that was backwards, with the gr
ound leg
> out in the wing tip, and the radiating leg attached to the rib! Little
> wonder some report poor performance. Ideally these need to be installed
> with proper test equipment; lacking that, at least a working knowledge of
> what is important and what is not. As an aside, I have my backup com on a
n
> Archer. Due to the difficulty getting vertical polarization out in the wi
ng
> tip, it is not as good as my external whip. However, it is nowhere near a
s
> bad as many others report. I believe this is 100% installation related.
> Tim: I agree with much of what you wrote. IFR is serious business. I woul
d
> never install my primary nav antenna (gps) contrary to the manufacturer
=99s
> instructions, even if it wasn=99t technically illegal to do so. I w
ould not
> accept my Archer nav antenna if my GS dropped out on a turn to final (it
> doesn=99t). I wouldn=99t accept it if I couldn=99t pick
up a VOR 50 nm away (I
> can). But I am willing to accept that 50 nm range is about the limit in t
he
> 3 o=99clock direction (antenna is in the left wingtip). At the same
time,
> there are some downsides to cat=99s whiskers. They need matching ne
tworks,
> which seem to attract moisture over time. A walk around my home field wil
l
> probably turn up one with a missing element. They=99re ice magnets.
And
> people washing airplanes really do poke themselves on them! As the saying
> goes, engineering is the art of compromise. Everyone flying in IMC needs
to
> carefully consider the consequences of their choices.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477425#477425
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shannon Hicks <civeng123(at)gmail.com> |
I just ordered an EarthX battery and was wondering if anyone had photos of
how they mounted it in the standard battery box?
Thanks,
Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Okay, this is a very valuable thread that is helping me figure out a few
things that I should have figured out sometime ago. I'll share my
experiences in the hope it helps others and I'll ask some questions
looking for more insight.
First, my GPS setup is 100% by the book and works flawlessly.
I originally installed 2 Archers - a Nav and a Comm. The Archer Nav is
my sole Nav antenna but I had a whip or whisker for my other Comm. I
long ago got rid of the Archer Comm but I'll come back to that. I've
made a good number of ILS approaches to various airports in IMC. I fly
into a good number of larger airports and the ILS is assigned by
default. Generally no problem but I've consistently had problems with
the KAGC's ILS for 28.
I've been flying into KAGC a lot over the last few years and I often get
vectors for the ILS to 28. I noticed that my AP generally missed the
left turn for the intercept and the GS was jumpy. I would just have to
disconnect it to hand fly it. I gave up on the AP and still found it
difficult to get the intercept precisely so I just got in the habit of
requesting the RNAV and have no problems. Recently I decided to try a
few in VMC and found that the needles were simply unuseable**. I did a
few more tests at other airports and had no problems with needles -
steady as a rock. But not at KAGC 28. I've wanted to blame the ILS but
based on this thread, I'm convinced it's the Archer (my Archer is split
to feed two NAVs). At this point after 6 years, I'm planning to put
some whiskers on. It's not that I fly a lot of IMC or a lot of hard and
low IMC, it's just that I file every flight, I work to stay current,
most of it is east of the Mississippi and sometimes, not always
predictably, I do an approach to minimums. It all has to work.
I don't really understand exactly what static wicks do, when they are
most needed and why I might consider them. Based on this thread, I
think I encountered a single situation where I needed them. I'd
appreciate your comments and any pointers to more information. What
happened was this: About 5 years ago I flew from NC to Phoenix. Coming
into Phoenix from Santa Fe I was up over 10K and was slam dunked into
Phoenix's airspace. As I started a high speed descent I ran through
some snow virga (!!) and simultaneously lost the Nav radio I was using.
I swear there was lightening in my peripheral vision. I slowed down,
changed radios, declared 'unable', got some vectors, and finally put it
down in sunny Scottsdale.
The radio had been using a whisker antenna but was now dead. Got some
help from someone here on the list (it's been awhile but thanks again)
to try and trouble shoot it since I didn't want to fly across the
country with a single Comm. It stayed dead but during the course of
flying around Phoenix I discovered that the Archer Comm antenna just
wasn't performing well enough to be my sole antenna for such a cross
country trip. So I spent some time swapping antenna's on my working
radio to get home.
Was this possibly caused by some kind of static discharge? Is that what
might have killed my radio? Is that what static wicks are designed to
prevent?
Anyway, I continued to fly with the Archer Comm and actually used it as
my 'primary' radio. It worked fine most of the time. But occasionally
I'd have a comm problem and would have to switch to get maximum range.
Conversely my belly mounted whisker would have problems when on the
ground and I'd use the Archer. Finally I removed the Archer and mounted
a 2nd belly whisker. Now when I have problems on the ground (KCLT
ground at Wilson Air for example) I switch to the other radio on the
other whisker and I'm able to communicate. It's clear to me now that
the whiskers far outperform the Archer Comm, but that's pretty well
understood by Archer users. It's a sleek backup solution on the Comm side.
At this point I'm starting to shop for some Nav whiskers and the easiest
way to add them to my 7 yo plane. I'm thinking that I will not be
installing static wicks but think I need to recognize that as a
limitation though I'm not sure how to mitigate the risks in that area.
I need to learn more there.
Bill "haven't scared myself in the '10 yet and would like to keep it
that way" Watson
** so how can a successful ILS be completed in the soup with unuseable
needles? Jumpy needles overlaying a synthethic vision display with a
flight path marker can let you convince yourself that you just did an
outstanding job handflying thru some nasty turbulence, as long as you
turn off the flight director.... is that too much technology?
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
IIRC Bill, I think it was your plane that I assisted with some crimpers
and/or connectors for your RG400 modifications.
I think if you replaced that Archer com antenna with a second nav antenna
so that each of your nav units had an antenna without a splitter, your
problem on the ILS would go away.
My previous plane had two navs, one with remote GS and the other with
built-in GS, all running off one cat whisker antenna, with two splitters to
get signal to all units.
On some approaches one of the ILSs would be weak and flakey (technical
term). I have to Archer Nav antennas, one each to individual nav coms with
GS. So far I haven't seen any problems.
Kelly
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Mon, Jan 22, 2018 at 8:06 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Okay, this is a very valuable thread that is helping me figure out a few
> things that I should have figured out sometime ago. I'll share my
> experiences in the hope it helps others and I'll ask some questions looking
> for more insight.
>
> First, my GPS setup is 100% by the book and works flawlessly.
>
> I originally installed 2 Archers - a Nav and a Comm. The Archer Nav is my
> sole Nav antenna but I had a whip or whisker for my other Comm. I long ago
> got rid of the Archer Comm but I'll come back to that. I've made a good
> number of ILS approaches to various airports in IMC. I fly into a good
> number of larger airports and the ILS is assigned by default. Generally no
> problem but I've consistently had problems with the KAGC's ILS for 28.
>
> I've been flying into KAGC a lot over the last few years and I often get
> vectors for the ILS to 28. I noticed that my AP generally missed the left
> turn for the intercept and the GS was jumpy. I would just have to
> disconnect it to hand fly it. I gave up on the AP and still found it
> difficult to get the intercept precisely so I just got in the habit of
> requesting the RNAV and have no problems. Recently I decided to try a few
> in VMC and found that the needles were simply unuseable**. I did a few
> more tests at other airports and had no problems with needles - steady as a
> rock. But not at KAGC 28. I've wanted to blame the ILS but based on this
> thread, I'm convinced it's the Archer (my Archer is split to feed two
> NAVs). At this point after 6 years, I'm planning to put some whiskers on.
> It's not that I fly a lot of IMC or a lot of hard and low IMC, it's just
> that I file every flight, I work to stay current, most of it is east of the
> Mississippi and sometimes, not always predictably, I do an approach to
> minimums. It all has to work.
>
> I don't really understand exactly what static wicks do, when they are most
> needed and why I might consider them. Based on this thread, I think I
> encountered a single situation where I needed them. I'd appreciate your
> comments and any pointers to more information. What happened was this:
> About 5 years ago I flew from NC to Phoenix. Coming into Phoenix from
> Santa Fe I was up over 10K and was slam dunked into Phoenix's airspace. As
> I started a high speed descent I ran through some snow virga (!!) and
> simultaneously lost the Nav radio I was using. I swear there was
> lightening in my peripheral vision. I slowed down, changed radios,
> declared 'unable', got some vectors, and finally put it down in sunny
> Scottsdale.
>
> The radio had been using a whisker antenna but was now dead. Got some
> help from someone here on the list (it's been awhile but thanks again) to
> try and trouble shoot it since I didn't want to fly across the country with
> a single Comm. It stayed dead but during the course of flying around
> Phoenix I discovered that the Archer Comm antenna just wasn't performing
> well enough to be my sole antenna for such a cross country trip. So I
> spent some time swapping antenna's on my working radio to get home.
>
> Was this possibly caused by some kind of static discharge? Is that what
> might have killed my radio? Is that what static wicks are designed to
> prevent?
>
> Anyway, I continued to fly with the Archer Comm and actually used it as my
> 'primary' radio. It worked fine most of the time. But occasionally I'd
> have a comm problem and would have to switch to get maximum range.
> Conversely my belly mounted whisker would have problems when on the ground
> and I'd use the Archer. Finally I removed the Archer and mounted a 2nd
> belly whisker. Now when I have problems on the ground (KCLT ground at
> Wilson Air for example) I switch to the other radio on the other whisker
> and I'm able to communicate. It's clear to me now that the whiskers far
> outperform the Archer Comm, but that's pretty well understood by Archer
> users. It's a sleek backup solution on the Comm side.
>
> At this point I'm starting to shop for some Nav whiskers and the easiest
> way to add them to my 7 yo plane. I'm thinking that I will not be
> installing static wicks but think I need to recognize that as a limitation
> though I'm not sure how to mitigate the risks in that area. I need to
> learn more there.
>
> Bill "haven't scared myself in the '10 yet and would like to keep it that
> way" Watson
>
> ** so how can a successful ILS be completed in the soup with unuseable
> needles? Jumpy needles overlaying a synthethic vision display with a
> flight path marker can let you convince yourself that you just did an
> outstanding job handflying thru some nasty turbulence, as long as you turn
> off the flight director.... is that too much technology?
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Bill,
Your GS issue is the same issue I had with the archer antennas. So I replaced them
with a tail mounted dipole (cat whisker). Problem solved!
The archer antennas worked great for VOR and LOC reception, just not the GS, which
is not surprising since the GS frequency is in an entirely different band
(330mhz) for which the antenna is not matched. Resulting signal strength is low
and coupled with the directivity caused by the airframe and antenna mounting
location, does not make it an ideal candidate for a GS antenna.
The issue you had with P-static I also experienced, but not on the -10, on a slow
130kt Piper Archer. Total comm failure in IMC. I installed wicks on the archer
and never had the issue again. It's interesting to note that the Piper
had a storm scope installed and that prior to installing the static wicks I would
see numerous false targets. After the wicks the false targets disappeared.
It was fortuitous that Piper actually had an option for the wicks, so it was
easy to add them on.
As far as the -10 is concerned, I built it knowing I would install wicks. I fly
in IMC quite often and have never had static issues.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477509#477509
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Kelly, I thought I remembered it was you but wasn't sure. Thanks
again! You know if you ever get out east you have a friend at 8NC8 -
anything. And I'm always looking to play it forward.
I was hoping someone would suggest a 2nd Archer because that would be
the simplest thing for me to do at this point. The funny thing is that
everyone mentions the GS being the problem but I clearly have a LOC
problem at KAGC 28, in addition to the GS. Otherwise my GS works
fine. I really haven't done much testing with my second NAV - only
practice approaches and it seems to work fine. Having each NAV hooked up
to it's own antenna would not only boost signal strength but would be a
better backup configuration. Hmmm.
On 1/22/2018 10:27 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> IIRC Bill, I think it was your plane that I assisted with some
> crimpers and/or connectors for your RG400 modifications.
> I think if you replaced that Archer com antenna with a second nav
> antenna so that each of your nav units had an antenna without a
> splitter, your problem on the ILS would go away.
> My previous plane had two navs, one with remote GS and the other with
> built-in GS, all running off one cat whisker antenna, with two
> splitters to get signal to all units.
> On some approaches one of the ILSs would be weak and flakey (technical
> term). I have to Archer Nav antennas, one each to individual nav coms
> with GS. So far I haven't seen any problems.
> Kelly
>
>
> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>
> On Mon, Jan 22, 2018 at 8:06 PM, Bill Watson > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Okay, this is a very valuable thread that is helping me figure out
> a few things that I should have figured out sometime ago. I'll
> share my experiences in the hope it helps others and I'll ask some
> questions looking for more insight.
>
> First, my GPS setup is 100% by the book and works flawlessly.
>
> I originally installed 2 Archers - a Nav and a Comm. The Archer
> Nav is my sole Nav antenna but I had a whip or whisker for my
> other Comm. I long ago got rid of the Archer Comm but I'll come
> back to that. I've made a good number of ILS approaches to
> various airports in IMC. I fly into a good number of larger
> airports and the ILS is assigned by default. Generally no problem
> but I've consistently had problems with the KAGC's ILS for 28.
>
> I've been flying into KAGC a lot over the last few years and I
> often get vectors for the ILS to 28. I noticed that my AP
> generally missed the left turn for the intercept and the GS was
> jumpy. I would just have to disconnect it to hand fly it. I
> gave up on the AP and still found it difficult to get the
> intercept precisely so I just got in the habit of requesting the
> RNAV and have no problems. Recently I decided to try a few in
> VMC and found that the needles were simply unuseable**. I did a
> few more tests at other airports and had no problems with needles
> - steady as a rock. But not at KAGC 28. I've wanted to blame the
> ILS but based on this thread, I'm convinced it's the Archer (my
> Archer is split to feed two NAVs). At this point after 6 years,
> I'm planning to put some whiskers on. It's not that I fly a lot
> of IMC or a lot of hard and low IMC, it's just that I file every
> flight, I work to stay current, most of it is east of the
> Mississippi and sometimes, not always predictably, I do an
> approach to minimums. It all has to work.
>
> I don't really understand exactly what static wicks do, when they
> are most needed and why I might consider them. Based on this
> thread, I think I encountered a single situation where I needed
> them. I'd appreciate your comments and any pointers to more
> information. What happened was this: About 5 years ago I flew
> from NC to Phoenix. Coming into Phoenix from Santa Fe I was up
> over 10K and was slam dunked into Phoenix's airspace. As I
> started a high speed descent I ran through some snow virga (!!)
> and simultaneously lost the Nav radio I was using. I swear there
> was lightening in my peripheral vision. I slowed down, changed
> radios, declared 'unable', got some vectors, and finally put it
> down in sunny Scottsdale.
>
> The radio had been using a whisker antenna but was now dead. Got
> some help from someone here on the list (it's been awhile but
> thanks again) to try and trouble shoot it since I didn't want to
> fly across the country with a single Comm. It stayed dead but
> during the course of flying around Phoenix I discovered that the
> Archer Comm antenna just wasn't performing well enough to be my
> sole antenna for such a cross country trip. So I spent some time
> swapping antenna's on my working radio to get home.
>
> Was this possibly caused by some kind of static discharge? Is that
> what might have killed my radio? Is that what static wicks are
> designed to prevent?
>
> Anyway, I continued to fly with the Archer Comm and actually used
> it as my 'primary' radio. It worked fine most of the time. But
> occasionally I'd have a comm problem and would have to switch to
> get maximum range. Conversely my belly mounted whisker would have
> problems when on the ground and I'd use the Archer. Finally I
> removed the Archer and mounted a 2nd belly whisker. Now when I
> have problems on the ground (KCLT ground at Wilson Air for
> example) I switch to the other radio on the other whisker and I'm
> able to communicate. It's clear to me now that the whiskers far
> outperform the Archer Comm, but that's pretty well understood by
> Archer users. It's a sleek backup solution on the Comm side.
>
> At this point I'm starting to shop for some Nav whiskers and the
> easiest way to add them to my 7 yo plane. I'm thinking that I
> will not be installing static wicks but think I need to recognize
> that as a limitation though I'm not sure how to mitigate the risks
> in that area. I need to learn more there.
>
> Bill "haven't scared myself in the '10 yet and would like to keep
> it that way" Watson
>
> ** so how can a successful ILS be completed in the soup with
> unuseable needles? Jumpy needles overlaying a synthethic vision
> display with a flight path marker can let you convince yourself
> that you just did an outstanding job handflying thru some nasty
> turbulence, as long as you turn off the flight director.... is
> that too much technology?
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Yes. I am puzzled by the suggestion that the Archer might not be tuned
for GS. Cat Whiskers and towel bar and blade antennas are all tuned for
108 to 117 Mhz. GS is roughly a 3 times multiple of that, and you should
not be using a GS beyond about 10 nm for approaches, where most
intercepts are between 7 and 4 nm. Signal strength should only be an
issue if using one or more splitters. I figure that having antenna on
each wing tip if there is any airframe blanking that you can just swap
to your other nav for that approach.
Kelly
On 1/23/2018 11:15 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Kelly, I thought I remembered it was you but wasn't sure. Thanks
> again! You know if you ever get out east you have a friend at 8NC8 -
> anything. And I'm always looking to play it forward.
>
> I was hoping someone would suggest a 2nd Archer because that would be
> the simplest thing for me to do at this point. The funny thing is that
> everyone mentions the GS being the problem but I clearly have a LOC
> problem at KAGC 28, in addition to the GS. Otherwise my GS works
> fine. I really haven't done much testing with my second NAV - only
> practice approaches and it seems to work fine. Having each NAV hooked up
> to it's own antenna would not only boost signal strength but would be a
> better backup configuration. Hmmm.
>
> On 1/22/2018 10:27 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> IIRC Bill, I think it was your plane that I assisted with some
>> crimpers and/or connectors for your RG400 modifications.
>> I think if you replaced that Archer com antenna with a second nav
>> antenna so that each of your nav units had an antenna without a
>> splitter, your problem on the ILS would go away.
>> My previous plane had two navs, one with remote GS and the other with
>> built-in GS, all running off one cat whisker antenna, with two
>> splitters to get signal to all units.
>> On some approaches one of the ILSs would be weak and flakey (technical
>> term). I have to Archer Nav antennas, one each to individual nav coms
>> with GS. So far I haven't seen any problems.
>> Kelly
>>
>>
>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 22, 2018 at 8:06 PM, Bill Watson > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Okay, this is a very valuable thread that is helping me figure out
>> a few things that I should have figured out sometime ago. I'll
>> share my experiences in the hope it helps others and I'll ask some
>> questions looking for more insight.
>>
>> First, my GPS setup is 100% by the book and works flawlessly.
>>
>> I originally installed 2 Archers - a Nav and a Comm. The Archer
>> Nav is my sole Nav antenna but I had a whip or whisker for my
>> other Comm. I long ago got rid of the Archer Comm but I'll come
>> back to that. I've made a good number of ILS approaches to
>> various airports in IMC. I fly into a good number of larger
>> airports and the ILS is assigned by default. Generally no problem
>> but I've consistently had problems with the KAGC's ILS for 28.
>>
>> I've been flying into KAGC a lot over the last few years and I
>> often get vectors for the ILS to 28. I noticed that my AP
>> generally missed the left turn for the intercept and the GS was
>> jumpy. I would just have to disconnect it to hand fly it. I
>> gave up on the AP and still found it difficult to get the
>> intercept precisely so I just got in the habit of requesting the
>> RNAV and have no problems. Recently I decided to try a few in
>> VMC and found that the needles were simply unuseable**. I did a
>> few more tests at other airports and had no problems with needles
>> - steady as a rock. But not at KAGC 28. I've wanted to blame the
>> ILS but based on this thread, I'm convinced it's the Archer (my
>> Archer is split to feed two NAVs). At this point after 6 years,
>> I'm planning to put some whiskers on. It's not that I fly a lot
>> of IMC or a lot of hard and low IMC, it's just that I file every
>> flight, I work to stay current, most of it is east of the
>> Mississippi and sometimes, not always predictably, I do an
>> approach to minimums. It all has to work.
>>
>> I don't really understand exactly what static wicks do, when they
>> are most needed and why I might consider them. Based on this
>> thread, I think I encountered a single situation where I needed
>> them. I'd appreciate your comments and any pointers to more
>> information. What happened was this: About 5 years ago I flew
>> from NC to Phoenix. Coming into Phoenix from Santa Fe I was up
>> over 10K and was slam dunked into Phoenix's airspace. As I
>> started a high speed descent I ran through some snow virga (!!)
>> and simultaneously lost the Nav radio I was using. I swear there
>> was lightening in my peripheral vision. I slowed down, changed
>> radios, declared 'unable', got some vectors, and finally put it
>> down in sunny Scottsdale.
>>
>> The radio had been using a whisker antenna but was now dead. Got
>> some help from someone here on the list (it's been awhile but
>> thanks again) to try and trouble shoot it since I didn't want to
>> fly across the country with a single Comm. It stayed dead but
>> during the course of flying around Phoenix I discovered that the
>> Archer Comm antenna just wasn't performing well enough to be my
>> sole antenna for such a cross country trip. So I spent some time
>> swapping antenna's on my working radio to get home.
>>
>> Was this possibly caused by some kind of static discharge? Is that
>> what might have killed my radio? Is that what static wicks are
>> designed to prevent?
>>
>> Anyway, I continued to fly with the Archer Comm and actually used
>> it as my 'primary' radio. It worked fine most of the time. But
>> occasionally I'd have a comm problem and would have to switch to
>> get maximum range. Conversely my belly mounted whisker would have
>> problems when on the ground and I'd use the Archer. Finally I
>> removed the Archer and mounted a 2nd belly whisker. Now when I
>> have problems on the ground (KCLT ground at Wilson Air for
>> example) I switch to the other radio on the other whisker and I'm
>> able to communicate. It's clear to me now that the whiskers far
>> outperform the Archer Comm, but that's pretty well understood by
>> Archer users. It's a sleek backup solution on the Comm side.
>>
>> At this point I'm starting to shop for some Nav whiskers and the
>> easiest way to add them to my 7 yo plane. I'm thinking that I
>> will not be installing static wicks but think I need to recognize
>> that as a limitation though I'm not sure how to mitigate the risks
>> in that area. I need to learn more there.
>>
>> Bill "haven't scared myself in the '10 yet and would like to keep
>> it that way" Watson
>>
>> ** so how can a successful ILS be completed in the soup with
>> unuseable needles? Jumpy needles overlaying a synthethic vision
>> display with a flight path marker can let you convince yourself
>> that you just did an outstanding job handflying thru some nasty
>> turbulence, as long as you turn off the flight director.... is
>> that too much technology?
>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Second thought. IF GS were the problem, there are GS antennas that are
typically mounted near the top of the windshield that would also be
easier than installing the cat whisker. And are tuned for GS freqs only,
so rather short.
On 1/23/2018 11:15 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Kelly, I thought I remembered it was you but wasn't sure. Thanks
> again! You know if you ever get out east you have a friend at 8NC8 -
> anything. And I'm always looking to play it forward.
>
> I was hoping someone would suggest a 2nd Archer because that would be
> the simplest thing for me to do at this point. The funny thing is that
> everyone mentions the GS being the problem but I clearly have a LOC
> problem at KAGC 28, in addition to the GS. Otherwise my GS works
> fine. I really haven't done much testing with my second NAV - only
> practice approaches and it seems to work fine. Having each NAV hooked up
> to it's own antenna would not only boost signal strength but would be a
> better backup configuration. Hmmm.
>
> On 1/22/2018 10:27 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> IIRC Bill, I think it was your plane that I assisted with some
>> crimpers and/or connectors for your RG400 modifications.
>> I think if you replaced that Archer com antenna with a second nav
>> antenna so that each of your nav units had an antenna without a
>> splitter, your problem on the ILS would go away.
>> My previous plane had two navs, one with remote GS and the other with
>> built-in GS, all running off one cat whisker antenna, with two
>> splitters to get signal to all units.
>> On some approaches one of the ILSs would be weak and flakey (technical
>> term). I have to Archer Nav antennas, one each to individual nav coms
>> with GS. So far I haven't seen any problems.
>> Kelly
>>
>>
>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 22, 2018 at 8:06 PM, Bill Watson > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Okay, this is a very valuable thread that is helping me figure out
>> a few things that I should have figured out sometime ago. I'll
>> share my experiences in the hope it helps others and I'll ask some
>> questions looking for more insight.
>>
>> First, my GPS setup is 100% by the book and works flawlessly.
>>
>> I originally installed 2 Archers - a Nav and a Comm. The Archer
>> Nav is my sole Nav antenna but I had a whip or whisker for my
>> other Comm. I long ago got rid of the Archer Comm but I'll come
>> back to that. I've made a good number of ILS approaches to
>> various airports in IMC. I fly into a good number of larger
>> airports and the ILS is assigned by default. Generally no problem
>> but I've consistently had problems with the KAGC's ILS for 28.
>>
>> I've been flying into KAGC a lot over the last few years and I
>> often get vectors for the ILS to 28. I noticed that my AP
>> generally missed the left turn for the intercept and the GS was
>> jumpy. I would just have to disconnect it to hand fly it. I
>> gave up on the AP and still found it difficult to get the
>> intercept precisely so I just got in the habit of requesting the
>> RNAV and have no problems. Recently I decided to try a few in
>> VMC and found that the needles were simply unuseable**. I did a
>> few more tests at other airports and had no problems with needles
>> - steady as a rock. But not at KAGC 28. I've wanted to blame the
>> ILS but based on this thread, I'm convinced it's the Archer (my
>> Archer is split to feed two NAVs). At this point after 6 years,
>> I'm planning to put some whiskers on. It's not that I fly a lot
>> of IMC or a lot of hard and low IMC, it's just that I file every
>> flight, I work to stay current, most of it is east of the
>> Mississippi and sometimes, not always predictably, I do an
>> approach to minimums. It all has to work.
>>
>> I don't really understand exactly what static wicks do, when they
>> are most needed and why I might consider them. Based on this
>> thread, I think I encountered a single situation where I needed
>> them. I'd appreciate your comments and any pointers to more
>> information. What happened was this: About 5 years ago I flew
>> from NC to Phoenix. Coming into Phoenix from Santa Fe I was up
>> over 10K and was slam dunked into Phoenix's airspace. As I
>> started a high speed descent I ran through some snow virga (!!)
>> and simultaneously lost the Nav radio I was using. I swear there
>> was lightening in my peripheral vision. I slowed down, changed
>> radios, declared 'unable', got some vectors, and finally put it
>> down in sunny Scottsdale.
>>
>> The radio had been using a whisker antenna but was now dead. Got
>> some help from someone here on the list (it's been awhile but
>> thanks again) to try and trouble shoot it since I didn't want to
>> fly across the country with a single Comm. It stayed dead but
>> during the course of flying around Phoenix I discovered that the
>> Archer Comm antenna just wasn't performing well enough to be my
>> sole antenna for such a cross country trip. So I spent some time
>> swapping antenna's on my working radio to get home.
>>
>> Was this possibly caused by some kind of static discharge? Is that
>> what might have killed my radio? Is that what static wicks are
>> designed to prevent?
>>
>> Anyway, I continued to fly with the Archer Comm and actually used
>> it as my 'primary' radio. It worked fine most of the time. But
>> occasionally I'd have a comm problem and would have to switch to
>> get maximum range. Conversely my belly mounted whisker would have
>> problems when on the ground and I'd use the Archer. Finally I
>> removed the Archer and mounted a 2nd belly whisker. Now when I
>> have problems on the ground (KCLT ground at Wilson Air for
>> example) I switch to the other radio on the other whisker and I'm
>> able to communicate. It's clear to me now that the whiskers far
>> outperform the Archer Comm, but that's pretty well understood by
>> Archer users. It's a sleek backup solution on the Comm side.
>>
>> At this point I'm starting to shop for some Nav whiskers and the
>> easiest way to add them to my 7 yo plane. I'm thinking that I
>> will not be installing static wicks but think I need to recognize
>> that as a limitation though I'm not sure how to mitigate the risks
>> in that area. I need to learn more there.
>>
>> Bill "haven't scared myself in the '10 yet and would like to keep
>> it that way" Watson
>>
>> ** so how can a successful ILS be completed in the soup with
>> unuseable needles? Jumpy needles overlaying a synthethic vision
>> display with a flight path marker can let you convince yourself
>> that you just did an outstanding job handflying thru some nasty
>> turbulence, as long as you turn off the flight director.... is
>> that too much technology?
>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC Antenna and Static Wicks |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The antenna itself should be resonant at GS frequencies; just that you have a 3/2
wavelength standing wave instead of a 1/2. The issue is with the gamma match
feed point. Its designed so the ratio of voltage to current at that point is
50 ohms, to provide a good match to the coax. But when you have 3/2 wavelengths
(remember the voltage and current standing waves are 90 deg out of phase) that
same feed point will not be 50 ohms. So there will be some mismatch at the
GS frequency, leading to some signal loss.
One thing I notice in this discussion is that most posters dont mention what
nav receiver theyre using. The key parameter is the noise generated in the receivers
front end (first stage). If that noise was zero a coat hangar would work
for an antenna. I wonder if varying reports are partially due to different
receivers, some with less noise than others?
Another common thing: people seem to have interpreted the instructions to read,
you must run the nav light wires along the leading edge. I believe the interpretation
should be, If you must run wires across the antenna, do it like this.
Both Carl F over on vaf and myself simply moved the antenna back a bit, and
ran the nav/strobe wires straight across, well in front of the antenna. Were
both happy with the performance.
If you decide to go with a simple GS dipole on the windscreen (common on 1976
Cessnas) remember that the GS will likely drop out anytime youre on a vector
90 degrees off final - if thats a concern.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477518#477518
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ADS-B - is the time now |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel900(at)gmail.com> |
I see that Garmin is shipping the all new GDL-82 ADS-B out solution. At $1795 this
seems like an excellent and cost effective solution to meet the ADS-B mandate.
It also works with my old panel mounted Garmin transponder.
Since I already have a scout and and a panel mounted full sized I-Pad, this seem
to fit the bill in a cost effective way.
While I understand that Garmin is back ordered on the item, I am considering getting
in the que. Has anyone pulled cord and installed this item? Inquiring minds
want to know the community's collective opinion.
--------
See you OSH '18
Q/B - flying 8 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477524#477524
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
There are now lots of options. The uAvionics Echo plus their gps or the grt gps
is a few hundred dollars less, and includes ADSB-in.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477526#477526
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "msausen" <michael(at)sausen.net> |
Hey all, been a while. As seems to happen to many of us, I am way overdue on my
-10 completion due to life, kids, career, etc and I'm looking to see if I can
get some experienced help from another builder or former builder in the Appleton/Green
Bay area. Specifically with the firewall forward aspects while I work
on wrapping up the rest of the aircraft. I already have the engine hung,
a lot of the plumbing and wiring completed, along with the baffles started. So
it's basically tying up loose ends, cowling, prop, etc.
Thanks,
Michael Sausen -10 #352
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477541#477541
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
Did you move back up north? Or just never moved the project?
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of msausen
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:33:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: WI Help Wanted
Hey all, been a while. As seems to happen to many of us, I am way overdue
on my -10 completion due to life, kids, career, etc and I'm looking to see
if I can get some experienced help from another builder or former builder i
n the Appleton/Green Bay area. Specifically with the firewall forward aspe
cts while I work on wrapping up the rest of the aircraft. I already have t
he engine hung, a lot of the plumbing and wiring completed, along with the
baffles started. So it's basically tying up loose ends, cowling, prop, etc
.
Thanks,
Michael Sausen -10 #352
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477541#477541
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
| From: | "msausen" <michael(at)sausen.net> |
Yep, moved back about a year ago again.
rleffler wrote:
> Did you move back up north? Or just never moved the project?
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> ________________________________
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of msausen
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:33:18 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: WI Help Wanted
>
>
>
> Hey all, been a while. As seems to happen to many of us, I am way overdue on
my -10 completion due to life, kids, career, etc and I'm looking to see if I
can get some experienced help from another builder or former builder in the Appleton/Green
Bay area. Specifically with the firewall forward aspects while I
work on wrapping up the rest of the aircraft. I already have the engine hung,
a lot of the plumbing and wiring completed, along with the baffles started.
So it's basically tying up loose ends, cowling, prop, etc
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477545#477545
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
Good to see you back, Michael. Keep plugging.
We welcomed 2 kids, moved 3 times, and I spent 1.5 years driving one way to work
on it back at the old location. Id go for 4 days straight and leftism and the
kids behind. I finally got it flying over the summer.
Most every project has a story to tell. Just keep on plugging and Im glad youre
getting back in the fold. See you at OSH!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 24, 2018, at 2:10 PM, msausen wrote:
>
>
> Yep, moved back about a year ago again.
>
>
> rleffler wrote:
>> Did you move back up north? Or just never moved the project?
>>
>> Get Outlook for iOS
>> ________________________________
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of msausen
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:33:18 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: WI Help Wanted
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey all, been a while. As seems to happen to many of us, I am way overdue on
my -10 completion due to life, kids, career, etc and I'm looking to see if I
can get some experienced help from another builder or former builder in the Appleton/Green
Bay area. Specifically with the firewall forward aspects while
I work on wrapping up the rest of the aircraft. I already have the engine hung,
a lot of the plumbing and wiring completed, along with the baffles started.
So it's basically tying up loose ends, cowling, prop, etc
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477545#477545
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
Welcome back. To echo Phil, I wish I were closer so I could help. I took 8
years to get mine done (well flying, not necessarily done) and it is worth
all the effort.
Kelly
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 2:04 PM, Phillip Perry wrote
:
>
> Good to see you back, Michael. Keep plugging.
>
> We welcomed 2 kids, moved 3 times, and I spent 1.5 years driving one way
> to work on it back at the old location. I=99d go for 4 days straigh
t and
> leftism and the kids behind. I finally got it flying over the summer.
>
> Most every project has a story to tell. Just keep on plugging and I
=99m glad
> you=99re getting back in the fold. See you at OSH!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jan 24, 2018, at 2:10 PM, msausen wrote:
> >
> >
> > Yep, moved back about a year ago again.
> >
> >
> > rleffler wrote:
> >> Did you move back up north? Or just never moved the project?
> >>
> >> Get Outlook for iOS
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of msausen
> >> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:33:18 PM
> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: WI Help Wanted
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Hey all, been a while. As seems to happen to many of us, I am way
> overdue on my -10 completion due to life, kids, career, etc and I'm looki
ng
> to see if I can get some experienced help from another builder or former
> builder in the Appleton/Green Bay area. Specifically with the firewall
> forward aspects while I work on wrapping up the rest of the aircraft. I
> already have the engine hung, a lot of the plumbing and wiring completed,
> along with the baffles started. So it's basically tying up loose ends,
> cowling, prop, etc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477545#477545
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
| From: | "msausen" <michael(at)sausen.net> |
Thanks Kelly. I know that this can take time but I'm approaching 15 years since
i started so it's time to be done. At least that's what my wife keeps saying.
:D
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477574#477574
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
That puts you very near the original announcement and shipping of the
early kits. I know how hard it is to do, but it may help to try putting
the work on your daily schedule for set time periods. I know when I work
at the airport, it is very easy to kill a lot of time socializing with
friends, etc.
On 1/25/2018 11:18 AM, msausen wrote:
>
> Thanks Kelly. I know that this can take time but I'm approaching 15 years since
i started so it's time to be done. At least that's what my wife keeps saying.
:D
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477574#477574
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
That got me thinking so I looked up when I ordered the tail kit. Looks lik
e it was end of Jan 2005. 13 years really fly=92s by. Funny how I was abl
e to get more done on it in the first two years than in the last 11.
From: Kelly McMullen<mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
That puts you very near the original announcement and shipping of the
early kits. I know how hard it is to do, but it may help to try putting
the work on your daily schedule for set time periods. I know when I work
at the airport, it is very easy to kill a lot of time socializing with
friends, etc.
On 1/25/2018 11:18 AM, msausen wrote:
>
> Thanks Kelly. I know that this can take time but I'm approaching 15 year
s since i started so it's time to be done. At least that's what my wife ke
eps saying. :D
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477574#477574
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
If I remember correctly you have an all AFS panel. There have been three
generations of newer adahrs technology since this original crossbow magneto
meters. I got tired of the bells and whistles I wanted were being addd dai
ly on the 5000 series, but not on the 4500s. I finally upgraded to 5500s
just before OSH last year.
If you have room in the budget you may want to take a look at the current g
eneral gear.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Michael Sausen
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 4:41:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
That got me thinking so I looked up when I ordered the tail kit. Looks lik
e it was end of Jan 2005. 13 years really fly=92s by. Funny how I was abl
e to get more done on it in the first two years than in the last 11.
From: Kelly McMullen<mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
That puts you very near the original announcement and shipping of the
early kits. I know how hard it is to do, but it may help to try putting
the work on your daily schedule for set time periods. I know when I work
at the airport, it is very easy to kill a lot of time socializing with
friends, etc.
On 1/25/2018 11:18 AM, msausen wrote:
>
> Thanks Kelly. I know that this can take time but I'm approaching 15 year
s since i started so it's time to be done. At least that's what my wife ke
eps saying. :D
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477574#477574
>
>
Email Forum -
-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
ums.matronics.com
p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
matronics.com
p; - List Contribution Web Site -
p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <n205en(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
I am kit #356, only 4 kits after yours and we both seem to be on the same s
chedule. This summer I got the plane on gear and mounted the engin. Now wo
rking on fwf. Life has a way of changing priorities. Nice to see you are
back building.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Michael Sausen
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 4:41:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
That got me thinking so I looked up when I ordered the tail kit. Looks lik
e it was end of Jan 2005. 13 years really fly=92s by. Funny how I was abl
e to get more done on it in the first two years than in the last 11.
From: Kelly McMullen<mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
That puts you very near the original announcement and shipping of the
early kits. I know how hard it is to do, but it may help to try putting
the work on your daily schedule for set time periods. I know when I work
at the airport, it is very easy to kill a lot of time socializing with
friends, etc.
On 1/25/2018 11:18 AM, msausen wrote:
>
> Thanks Kelly. I know that this can take time but I'm approaching 15 year
s since i started so it's time to be done. At least that's what my wife ke
eps saying. :D
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477574#477574
>
>
Email Forum -
-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
ums.matronics.com
p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
matronics.com
p; - List Contribution Web Site -
p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
| From: | "BrBreck" <BBreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
Oh boy, oh no ..., builder's numbers. I wonder how many of the first 20 or so
are still under construction.
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
Fuselage gets picked up Monday!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477584#477584
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
I think weve just found a winner!
Keep grinding....
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2018, at 8:24 PM, BrBreck wrote:
>
>
> Oh boy, oh no ..., builder's numbers. I wonder how many of the first 20 or so
are still under construction.
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018
> Fuselage gets picked up Monday!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477584#477584
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
Ha!
From: Phillip Perry<mailto:philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
I think we=92ve just found a winner!
Keep grinding....
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2018, at 8:24 PM, BrBreck wrote:
>
>
> Oh boy, oh no ..., builder's numbers. I wonder how many of the first 20
or so are still under construction.
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018
> Fuselage gets picked up Monday!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477584#477584
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
Thanks Larry, glad to see a lot of the old group still around! Brings back
memories of the early days of the list and the stand against the =93other
=94 forum when the Yahoo list was abruptly closed down. :D
From: Larry Rosen<mailto:n205en(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
I am kit #356, only 4 kits after yours and we both seem to be on the same s
chedule. This summer I got the plane on gear and mounted the engin. Now wo
rking on fwf. Life has a way of changing priorities. Nice to see you are
back building.
Get Outlook for iOS
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Michael Sausen
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 4:41:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
That got me thinking so I looked up when I ordered the tail kit. Looks lik
e it was end of Jan 2005. 13 years really fly=92s by. Funny how I was abl
e to get more done on it in the first two years than in the last 11.
From: Kelly McMullen<mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
That puts you very near the original announcement and shipping of the
early kits. I know how hard it is to do, but it may help to try putting
the work on your daily schedule for set time periods. I know when I work
at the airport, it is very easy to kill a lot of time socializing with
friends, etc.
On 1/25/2018 11:18 AM, msausen wrote:
>
> Thanks Kelly. I know that this can take time but I'm approaching 15 year
s since i started so it's time to be done. At least that's what my wife ke
eps saying. :D
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477574#477574
>
>
Email Forum -
-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
ums.matronics.com
p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
matronics.com
p; - List Contribution Web Site -
p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
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PT09PT09PT09PQ0KDQoNCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | taganster(at)gmail.com |
| Subject: | Re: WI Help Wanted |
Hey Michael,
Still have the shaping lumber you gave to me for building my fuselage. Any
time you would like to stop by CLI, your than welcome in my hanger to have a
look at the 10 if it might help. It=99s been awhile since the build b
ut if I can help let me know.
Tom Ganster
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 26, 2018, at 8:00 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I would take a look at AFS new act box. Rob should have the solid state v
ersion out this summer.
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matroni
cs.com> on behalf of Michael Sausen
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2018 8:25:40 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
>
> Thanks for reminding me. =F0=9F=98=83 My bigger concern is the VP200 wit
h a dodgy rotary knob. At least the AFS stuff is all still better than anyt
hing you will find in the rental market today so I think I can live with it f
or a while yet.
>
> From: Bob Leffler
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 4:19 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com; rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
>
> If I remember correctly you have an all AFS panel. There have been three
generations of newer adahrs technology since this original crossbow magneto
meters. I got tired of the bells and whistles I wanted were being addd dail
y on the 5000 series, but not on the 4500s. I finally upgraded to 5500s ju
st before OSH last year.
>
> If you have room in the budget you may want to take a look at the current g
eneral gear.
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matroni
cs.com> on behalf of Michael Sausen
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 4:41:47 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
>
> That got me thinking so I looked up when I ordered the tail kit. Looks li
ke it was end of Jan 2005. 13 years really fly=99s by. Funny how I w
as able to get more done on it in the first two years than in the last 11.
>
> From: Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 2:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: WI Help Wanted
>
>
> That puts you very near the original announcement and shipping of the
> early kits. I know how hard it is to do, but it may help to try putting
> the work on your daily schedule for set time periods. I know when I work
> at the airport, it is very easy to kill a lot of time socializing with
> friends, etc.
>
> On 1/25/2018 11:18 AM, msausen wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Kelly. I know that this can take time but I'm approaching 15 yea
rs since i started so it's time to be done. At least that's what my wife ke
eps saying. :D
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477574#477574
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ==========
> Email Forum -
> -List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> ums.matronics.com
> ==========
> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> matronics.com
> ==========
> p; - List Contribution Web Site -
> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: SureFly Electronic Ignition |
Has anyone installed the SureFly electronic ignition system on their RV-10?
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 13 Dec 2017, at 23:43, SureFly wrote:
>
>
> We have 6 Cylinder Ignition units available. Give your 10 something nice for
Christmas. :D 817-373-5161
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=476379#476379
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SureFly Electronic Ignition |
| From: | "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com> |
Yes, good results and superior support.
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477626#477626
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)u.washington.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: SureFly Electronic Ignition |
Second that. Have about 100 hrs. on the Surefly replacing the right mag. I removed
the jumper on ignition switch that grounds the right mag at startup, so
both the left mag with SlickStart and the right Surefly unit are firing at TDC
during cranking. Totally solved my decade-long hot start problem on the IO-540.
CHTs have been normal in all phases of flight, and the bird is about 2 kts
faster in cruise. Effect most noticeable when running above 9K density altitude
with MP settings below 22". Good stuff.
-Dan Masys
N104LD 1100 hrs.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: SureFly Electronic Ignition
> From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
>
>
> Yes, good results and superior support.
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DennisSpender <dspender(at)charter.net> |
Would you take my email off from the list. I no longer wish to receive emails.
Also include my alternate email
dspender(at)charter.net
For cancellation.
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cancellation |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
This is a self help email forum. Take yourself off the list at:
http://www.matronics.com/subscription/
On 1/29/2018 7:06 AM, DennisSpender wrote:
>
> Would you take my email off from the list. I no longer wish to receive emails.
Also include my alternate email
> dspender(at)charter.net
> For cancellation.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-540 alternator-starter bracket |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Does anyone know who sells the bracket for a boss mount from alternator
to starter bracket? I have a B and C alternator and OEM Lycoming/Skytec starter.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477689#477689
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <n205en(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 alternator-starter bracket |
Did you try B&C?
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of whodja
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 7:13:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 alternator-starter bracket
Does anyone know who sells the bracket for a boss mount from alternator
to starter bracket? I have a B and C alternator and OEM Lycoming/Skytec sta
rter.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477689#477689
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel900(at)gmail.com> |
Nobody out there is posting - I would appreciate hearing from you.
--------
See you OSH '18
Q/B - flying 8 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477714#477714
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
I think only you can really answer that for yourself. I think most of us who have
ADS-B are happy we did it. There are plenty who got hurt through the NavWorx
situation, and that could happen to other companies, but it is less likely as
time passes.
Personally, the benefits of ADS-B out are great. I have an ES transponder, so every
time my plane is in the air I can track it, or if I am flying, my family
or the people I am going to meet can track me, even when I am VFR. I live in Florida,
in a very heavy traffic area, and I see all of the traffic because I am
broadcasting and waking up the ground stations to send traffic information.
I am installing ADS-B out in probably an average of 2+ planes per week in my shop.
It is expensive, but I dont know a single customer who wishes they hadnt
installed, except possibly those who installed NavWorx, but those customers are
all planning to replace it soon, and some already have, because they see the
benefits of it.
There may be cheaper solutions that come out in the next 2 years, but the demand
is increasing as the deadline approaches, and I think that makes it less likely
that prices will be going down significantly. There are enough solutions available
that anybody doing serious undercutting on price could easily increase
their price and still sell equipment.
I hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 30, 2018, at 10:52 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> Nobody out there is posting - I would appreciate hearing from you.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '18
> Q/B - flying 8 yrs.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477714#477714
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 alternator-starter bracket |
| From: | "tshort" <tmshort(at)gmail.com> |
So far as I know no one makes one.
I have a plane power 60A alternator and a B&C starter.
The install instructions for the starter state that no bracket is needed if a B&C
alternator (or any alternator that is perfectly balanced) is installed. [My
summary, I don't have the instructions in front of me]
I'm still in the process of installing things, but am seriously considering not
installing a bracket. I called B&C, and was told that the bracket would provide
extra support / vibration dampening and might extend the life of the PP alternator.
Seeing as how it's not installed with the B&C alt/starter combo, I may just go
without...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477716#477716
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
My comments mirror those of Jesse. I put in the NavWorx box early on and found
the traffic display and alerts to be outstanding. Mine was not connected to
a certified GPS, so I had to find a replacement.and installed the Uavionix Echo
with the Fly GPS. It is now working with a small issue with baro altitude that
they are working to resolve. The traffic display and alerts are as good as
the NavWorx unit was, and I do not want to be without it anymore. The weather
display is good, but you have to understand what radar picture is output over
the ADS-B link. I also have a Garmin 396 with subscription XM weather on it
which works on the ground when you cannot see any ADS-B towers. The combination
of the 2 wx inputs gives me a really good weather picture.
If anyone wants the NavWorx box, Ill be happy to make you a great deal on it.
All it needs is a certified GPS input to be legal.
grumpy
N184JM - flying since 2006
N82WW (RV8) - flying since Dec 29, 2016
> On Jan 30, 2018, at 9:52 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> Nobody out there is posting - I would appreciate hearing from you.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '18
> Q/B - flying 8 yrs.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477714#477714
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 alternator-starter bracket |
Have you talked to Plane Power? This is what is normally in their
experimental kit:
http://planepower.aero/images/AL12-EI60-B.jpg
They offer both case mount and boss mount kits with all brackets. Is the
bracket you need of differing dimensions than a stock
alternator and starter combo? I used the stock PP kit with a Kelly (now
Hartzell) EZ Drive starter with no problem.
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 5:13 AM, whodja wrote:
>
> Does anyone know who sells the bracket for a boss mount from alternator
> to starter bracket? I have a B and C alternator and OEM Lycoming/Skytec
> starter.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477689#477689
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I agree with Jesse, the time isn't now, the time was a while ago.
I've been flying with ADS-B since 2009, and wouldn't be without
it now. There are so many options to choose from, but only
you can determine what's right for you, based on price point,
and work involved. The cheapest method likely isn't the best
method, but only you can determine what you're looking for
out of it. If all you want is compliance, then it's one thing,
but if you want all the benefits that go with it, you'll likely
want more than the simplest of solutions. And some of it is
driven by what's in your panel.
If you just want to no think too hard about what you're
going to do, then get the Garmin 345 or Stratus ESG, and
once you're installed you'll have most of the options you
could be looking for.
Tim
On 01/30/2018 09:52 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> Nobody out there is posting - I would appreciate hearing from you.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '18
> Q/B - flying 8 yrs.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477714#477714
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I agree, the decision is driven by wallet, receive capability and what
you already have. The UAT option unfortunately comes saddled with
unnecessary complexity..you have to keep, maintain, and certify a Mode C
transponder/encoder on top of the UAT add-on. The 1090ES option costs
more initially, but is only one unit to maintain and certify every 2
years, and lets you go anywhere outside US borders. It also lets you go
into the flight levels if that gets you over some weather.
Then you have to consider whether you are going to take advantage of the
ability to receive traffic and weather, and if you want that on your
PFD/MFD or something portable, or both. Those of us that have the
traffic and weather on our panel mount displays probably would only use
the portable as a backup..but that is decided as much by budget and
how/where we fly more than anything. When you add cost of iPad and
software for that, plus a means to get the data to the iPad, whether
portable receiver or something built-in, those numbers are significant,
though perhaps less than getting it into our panel displays. However,
having an independent, battery powered display has a lot of merit.
On 1/31/2018 7:33 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I agree with Jesse, the time isn't now, the time was a while ago.
> I've been flying with ADS-B since 2009, and wouldn't be without
> it now. There are so many options to choose from, but only
> you can determine what's right for you, based on price point,
> and work involved. The cheapest method likely isn't the best
> method, but only you can determine what you're looking for
> out of it. If all you want is compliance, then it's one thing,
> but if you want all the benefits that go with it, you'll likely
> want more than the simplest of solutions. And some of it is
> driven by what's in your panel.
>
> If you just want to no think too hard about what you're
> going to do, then get the Garmin 345 or Stratus ESG, and
> once you're installed you'll have most of the options you
> could be looking for.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 01/30/2018 09:52 PM, AirMike wrote:
>>
>> Nobody out there is posting - I would appreciate hearing from you.
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '18
>> Q/B - flying 8 yrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477714#477714
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
For OUT I went with the ES upgrade last year on my 330 transponder. It
was just a convenient option for me. Note that it also required a
software upgrade for the 430W GPS and another wire between the two.
For IN I built myself a Stratux (http://stratux.me) and currently get
traffic/weather from that in ForeFlight on the iPad. The Stratux can
now do serial out so I could send it to my AFS 4500s if/when I get the
desire to do that.
I also still have my Sirrux XM subscription, but that will most likely
be turned off as the Stratux IN box has proven itself.
Many options indeed and it all just depends.
-Sean #40303
> Kelly McMullen
> January 31, 2018 at 8:51 AM
>
> I agree, the decision is driven by wallet, receive capability and what
> you already have. The UAT option unfortunately comes saddled with
> unnecessary complexity..you have to keep, maintain, and certify a Mode
> C transponder/encoder on top of the UAT add-on. The 1090ES option
> costs more initially, but is only one unit to maintain and certify
> every 2 years, and lets you go anywhere outside US borders. It also
> lets you go into the flight levels if that gets you over some weather.
> Then you have to consider whether you are going to take advantage of
> the ability to receive traffic and weather, and if you want that on
> your PFD/MFD or something portable, or both. Those of us that have the
> traffic and weather on our panel mount displays probably would only
> use the portable as a backup..but that is decided as much by budget
> and how/where we fly more than anything. When you add cost of iPad and
> software for that, plus a means to get the data to the iPad, whether
> portable receiver or something built-in, those numbers are
> significant, though perhaps less than getting it into our panel
> displays. However, having an independent, battery powered display has
> a lot of merit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Sean,
I'd like to learn something on this. The ES upgrade, I've heard that
when you get the transponder back, it's physically longer. Is that true?
If not, it's more attractive.
Tim
On 01/31/2018 09:13 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> For OUT I went with the ES upgrade last year on my 330 transponder. It
> was just a convenient option for me. Note that it also required a
> software upgrade for the 430W GPS and another wire between the two.
>
> For IN I built myself a Stratux (http://stratux.me) and currently get
> traffic/weather from that in ForeFlight on the iPad. The Stratux can
> now do serial out so I could send it to my AFS 4500s if/when I get the
> desire to do that.
>
> I also still have my Sirrux XM subscription, but that will most likely
> be turned off as the Stratux IN box has proven itself.
>
> Many options indeed and it all just depends.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>> Kelly McMullen
>> January 31, 2018 at 8:51 AM
>>
>> I agree, the decision is driven by wallet, receive capability and what
>> you already have. The UAT option unfortunately comes saddled with
>> unnecessary complexity..you have to keep, maintain, and certify a Mode
>> C transponder/encoder on top of the UAT add-on. The 1090ES option
>> costs more initially, but is only one unit to maintain and certify
>> every 2 years, and lets you go anywhere outside US borders. It also
>> lets you go into the flight levels if that gets you over some weather.
>> Then you have to consider whether you are going to take advantage of
>> the ability to receive traffic and weather, and if you want that on
>> your PFD/MFD or something portable, or both. Those of us that have the
>> traffic and weather on our panel mount displays probably would only
>> use the portable as a backup..but that is decided as much by budget
>> and how/where we fly more than anything. When you add cost of iPad and
>> software for that, plus a means to get the data to the iPad, whether
>> portable receiver or something built-in, those numbers are
>> significant, though perhaps less than getting it into our panel
>> displays. However, having an independent, battery powered display has
>> a lot of merit.
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 01/31/2018 09:33 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> I agree with Jesse, the time isn't now, the time was a while ago.
> I've been flying with ADS-B since 2009, and wouldn't be without
> it now.
Ditto. I installed full ADS-B In/Out about 3 years ago, and would not
want to be without it. You don't realize how valuable a tool it really
is until you fly with it, so if you know someone with an installed
system, ask them to take you up and demo it.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
The 330ES is physically identical to the 330. There is updated software and hardware
inside, but its the same tray and connector.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
> On Jan 31, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Sean,
>
> I'd like to learn something on this. The ES upgrade, I've heard that
> when you get the transponder back, it's physically longer. Is that true?
> If not, it's more attractive.
> Tim
>
>
> On 01/31/2018 09:13 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>> For OUT I went with the ES upgrade last year on my 330 transponder. It was
just a convenient option for me. Note that it also required a software upgrade
for the 430W GPS and another wire between the two.
>> For IN I built myself a Stratux (http://stratux.me) and currently get traffic/weather from that in ForeFlight on the iPad. The Stratux can now do serial out so I could send it to my AFS 4500s if/when I get the desire to do that.
>> I also still have my Sirrux XM subscription, but that will most likely be turned
off as the Stratux IN box has proven itself.
>> Many options indeed and it all just depends.
>> -Sean #40303
>>> Kelly McMullen
>>> January 31, 2018 at 8:51 AM
>>>
>>> I agree, the decision is driven by wallet, receive capability and what you
already have. The UAT option unfortunately comes saddled with unnecessary complexity..you
have to keep, maintain, and certify a Mode C transponder/encoder on
top of the UAT add-on. The 1090ES option costs more initially, but is only one
unit to maintain and certify every 2 years, and lets you go anywhere outside
US borders. It also lets you go into the flight levels if that gets you over
some weather.
>>> Then you have to consider whether you are going to take advantage of the ability
to receive traffic and weather, and if you want that on your PFD/MFD or
something portable, or both. Those of us that have the traffic and weather on
our panel mount displays probably would only use the portable as a backup..but
that is decided as much by budget and how/where we fly more than anything. When
you add cost of iPad and software for that, plus a means to get the data to
the iPad, whether portable receiver or something built-in, those numbers are
significant, though perhaps less than getting it into our panel displays. However,
having an independent, battery powered display has a lot of merit.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
The 330ES upgrade does not physically change the dimensions of the transponder
at all. Remove the transponder unit only from the panel, get it upgraded, the
re-install (into the same tray you had before).
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: ADS-B - is the time now
Sean,
I'd like to learn something on this. The ES upgrade, I've heard that
when you get the transponder back, it's physically longer. Is that true?
If not, it's more attractive.
Tim
On 01/31/2018 09:13 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
> -->
>
> For OUT I went with the ES upgrade last year on my 330 transponder.
> It was just a convenient option for me. Note that it also required a
> software upgrade for the 430W GPS and another wire between the two.
>
> For IN I built myself a Stratux (http://stratux.me) and currently get
> traffic/weather from that in ForeFlight on the iPad. The Stratux can
> now do serial out so I could send it to my AFS 4500s if/when I get the
> desire to do that.
>
> I also still have my Sirrux XM subscription, but that will most likely
> be turned off as the Stratux IN box has proven itself.
>
> Many options indeed and it all just depends.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>> Kelly McMullen January 31, 2018 at 8:51
>> AM
>>
>> I agree, the decision is driven by wallet, receive capability and
>> what you already have. The UAT option unfortunately comes saddled
>> with unnecessary complexity..you have to keep, maintain, and certify
>> a Mode C transponder/encoder on top of the UAT add-on. The 1090ES
>> option costs more initially, but is only one unit to maintain and
>> certify every 2 years, and lets you go anywhere outside US borders.
>> It also lets you go into the flight levels if that gets you over some weather.
>> Then you have to consider whether you are going to take advantage of
>> the ability to receive traffic and weather, and if you want that on
>> your PFD/MFD or something portable, or both. Those of us that have
>> the traffic and weather on our panel mount displays probably would
>> only use the portable as a backup..but that is decided as much by
>> budget and how/where we fly more than anything. When you add cost of
>> iPad and software for that, plus a means to get the data to the iPad,
>> whether portable receiver or something built-in, those numbers are
>> significant, though perhaps less than getting it into our panel
>> displays. However, having an independent, battery powered display has
>> a lot of merit.
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
Yep. Just plop it back in the tray when you get it back. Well, and add
the extra wire for the GPS position source.
Stein handled my upgrade. Smooth process going through them as they
handle the Garmin details.
-Sean #40303
> Stein Bruch
> January 31, 2018 at 10:07 AM
>
> The 330ES upgrade does not physically change the dimensions of the
> transponder at all. Remove the transponder unit only from the panel,
> get it upgraded, the re-install (into the same tray you had before).
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 9:47 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: ADS-B - is the time now
>
>
> Sean,
>
> I'd like to learn something on this. The ES upgrade, I've heard that
> when you get the transponder back, it's physically longer. Is that true?
> If not, it's more attractive.
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B - is the time now |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Sounds great. Glad it's that easy.
Thanks guys,
Tim
On 01/31/2018 10:30 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Yep. Just plop it back in the tray when you get it back. Well, and add
> the extra wire for the GPS position source.
>
> Stein handled my upgrade. Smooth process going through them as they
> handle the Garmin details.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>> Stein Bruch
>> January 31, 2018 at 10:07 AM
>>
>> The 330ES upgrade does not physically change the dimensions of the
>> transponder at all. Remove the transponder unit only from the panel,
>> get it upgraded, the re-install (into the same tray you had before).
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Stein
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 9:47 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: ADS-B - is the time now
>>
>>
>> Sean,
>>
>> I'd like to learn something on this. The ES upgrade, I've heard that
>> when you get the transponder back, it's physically longer. Is that true?
>> If not, it's more attractive.
>> Tim
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for =?ISO-8859-1?Q?2=9D?= alum butterfly valve |
| From: | "LarryRosen" <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
You may want to try AVIACOMP International. http://www.aviacompinternational.com/connectors.html. Looks like they are the manufacture of the valve you are looking for. They may be able to help you out.
Larry
--------
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477732#477732
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gautier, Thomas N (3262)" <thomas.n.gautier(at)jpl.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | N363TG first flight |
QWxsLA0KDQpOMzYzVEcgbWFkZSBpdHMgZmlyc3QgZmxpZ2h0IGxhc3QgVHVlc2RheSwgdHdvIGRh
eXMgYWdvLiBJIHNwZW50IGEgbG90IG9mIHRpbWUgbHVya2luZyBhbmQgbm90IG11Y2ggdGltZSB0
YWxraW5nIHRvIHRoZSBsaXN0IGJ1dCBhbGwgeW91IHBlb3BsZSB3ZXJlIGEgZ3JlYXQgaGVscC4g
VGhhbmtzLg0KDQpNeSBzZXJpYWwgbnVtYmVyIGlzIDQwMzYzIHNvLCBhcyB5b3UgY2FuIHRlbGws
IHRoZSBhaXJwbGFuZSB3YXMgMTIuNyB5ZWFycyBpbiB0aGUgY29taW5nLiBTbywgaGFuZyBpbiB0
aGVyZSBhbGwgeW91IGxvdyBTTiBndXlzIHdobyBoYXZlbuKAmXQgZmxvd24geWV0LiBJdCBjYW4g
YmUgZG9uZS4NCg0KUmVnYXJkcywNCg0KTmljayBHYXV0aWVyDQoNCkRvIG5vdCBhcmNoaXZlDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Keller <dennis(at)bullamanka.com> |
| Subject: | FS (Free) RV-10 Empennage Kit (SF Bay Area) |
Hi Folks -
Started building my RV-10 empennage kit in early 2008, got through the VS
and rudder and then had a second child. The kit has been hibernating since
and I don't think I'll pick it up again anytime soon. I need it to
disappear from my garage, so I'm offering it to anyone who is willing to
come pick it up.
Unfortunately I was keeping the build log in a database that I appear to
have lost. So I have some photographs, but no other details to go along
with the VS an rudder.
If you're interested, shoot me an email: dennis(at)bullamanka.com
Dennis Keller
RV-10 40825
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FS (Free) RV-10 Empennage Kit (SF Bay Area) |
Not that I=99m in the market, but where are you located, Dennis?
From: Dennis Keller
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2018 9:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FS (Free) RV-10 Empennage Kit (SF Bay Area)
Hi Folks -
Started building my RV-10 empennage kit in early 2008, got through the
VS and rudder and then had a second child. The kit has been hibernating
since and I don't think I'll pick it up again anytime soon. I need it to
disappear from my garage, so I'm offering it to anyone who is willing to
come pick it up.
Unfortunately I was keeping the build log in a database that I appear to
have lost. So I have some photographs, but no other details to go along
with the VS an rudder.
If you're interested, shoot me an email: dennis(at)bullamanka.com
Dennis Keller
RV-10 40825
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Keller <dennis(at)bullamanka.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS (Free) RV-10 Empennage Kit (SF Bay Area) |
Quick update to close this out. As of 11AMPT, the kit should be on its way
to a builder who will be able to complete it.
Safe flying -- Dennis
On Sat, Feb 3, 2018 at 6:09 PM, Dennis Keller wrote:
> Hi Folks -
>
> Started building my RV-10 empennage kit in early 2008, got through the VS
> and rudder and then had a second child. The kit has been hibernating since
> and I don't think I'll pick it up again anytime soon. I need it to
> disappear from my garage, so I'm offering it to anyone who is willing to
> come pick it up.
>
> Unfortunately I was keeping the build log in a database that I appear to
> have lost. So I have some photographs, but no other details to go along
> with the VS an rudder.
>
> If you're interested, shoot me an email: dennis(at)bullamanka.com
>
> Dennis Keller
> RV-10 40825
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N363TG first flight |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel900(at)gmail.com> |
Yippeeeeee. Safe flying, Give us some meat to chew on and inspire the others out
there. Pics., stories, equipment..............Nice accomplishment
--------
See you OSH '18
Q/B - flying 8 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477870#477870
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B compliance question |
> On 2018-Feb-08, at 5:23 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> A couple questions........
>
> What EFIS do you have? Is it a Skyview or AFS? Your EFIS should be providing
the 261 pressure altitude. GPS altitude is only used as a backup. I believe
that both are transmitted as part of the ADSB out.
It's an AFS system I have.
>
> I can't tell you how to debug the Skyview, but on the AFS there is the ability
to dump data from the serial ports to an ascii file. It may be tedious, but
you can look through this output and see if there is any issues with the EFIS
transmitting pressure altitude to the 261. I'm sure that you can do something
similar on the Skyview. Unfortunately I don't have that experience.
I'll try to do a serial port dump the next time I go flying to see if there are
any inconsistencies. Thanks for the suggestion!
>
> How close was the nearest ADSB tower? Sometimes there are errors during initial
climb out and on descent. Especially if the ADSB tower is nearby or on the
field. I know that some folks were advised for the ADSB rebates to leave everything
turned off until they hit 3K agl to minimize these errors.
I'm not sure - and likely throughout the flight hopped between several towers.
The report didn't give me much info other than just saying that there were some
errors with Geo Alt. For all I know, it might have just been on the ground
when the GPS was still getting a lock on the satellites and didn't know altitude
yet. But in any case, I can't figure out why a total outage of 21 seconds
worth of data came to a reported 3.7% fail rate, when in reality the failure
rate should have been 15 times less by my calculations.
>
> Have you had the 261 certified yet? They should be able to see if there are
any issues with the transponder and its data feeds. Although many shops have
older test rigs.
The "traditional Mode C" side of the transponder was certified a bit less than
a year ago. Though the equipment used didn't have the ability to dig deep into
the ADS-B data other than to just see that it was generally sending valid packets.
>
> If these weren't failed as red, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Generate
another PAPR the next time you're In the US.
The Geo Alt. section (under missing elements) was flagged as red. But none of
the "exceptions" section (NIC, NACp, NACv, SIL, SDA) or anything else. Just the
Geo Alt.
Others have suggested potentially inputting an altitude offset to ensure barometric
altitude matches closely with GPS altitude (unless the reference is to adjust
the GPS altitude, though I've already set my antenna height above the wheel
base accurately). But I thought the "Missing Elements" Geo Alt failures were
"standalone" where the GPS didn't provide altitude data. I didn't think it
was flagging that it didn't compare favourably against barometric altitude. My
Baro Alt, Baro Alt Delta, Geo Alt, and Geo Alt Delta under the Kinematics section
all read 0 errors and 0% failure rate.
In any case, how could they actually compare the two, since baro alt for the transponder
is standardized at 29.92 and geo alt isn't affected by the local air
pressure. Plus, even if they recorded nearest station altimeter readings to
make the appropriate corrections, even then comparing the two assumes an ISA atmosphere,
which is rarely the case. From my understanding, that's why, for example,
even if altimeters are set perfectly, if the weather is cold, cold temperature
corrections are necessary to find true height above sea level otherwise
you're flying lower than you think. The GPS altitude wouldn't reflect any
of this.
I'll double check the firmware for the transponder and GTN as well, to make sure
they're all up to date.
Regardless, I'll try doing a serial dump the next time I fly, though since I don't
fly in the US that often, it might be some time before I can compare it against
another PAPR.
Thanks again for the suggestion!
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Advice for gascolator quick drains |
Hi everyone.
I have gascolators located in the wing roots of my RV-10 (here in Canada, we require
them, whether they make logical sense or not).
They're at the lowest point in the fuel system I can get them (also required),
though the true lowest point in the fuel system is the drains in the bottom of
the tanks, since fuel has to flow uphill to get into the gascolator (from either
direction). So I don't expect there to be much water ever get trapped in
the gascolator. And in reality, though I had a bit of water I drained once from
the bottom of the tanks (the result of a not-perfectly-sealed fuel cap when
the plane was left outside in the rain once), I've never seen any in the gascolators.
Nonetheless, I should have a quick drain, if for no other reason than
to be able to check them periodically - though water won't naturally flow into
them when the plane is at rest, when the fuel is flowing, I imagine small droplets
in suspension with the fuel may get trapped in the bowl and slowly build
up.
The trouble is that these gascolators aren't under positive pressure as gascolators
would normally be - they'd be under a slight negative pressure as fuel is
sucked from the tanks. I worry that if I used just a standard quick drain there
might be the possibility of air leaking into the fuel line (I've seen those
quick drains leak fuel on more than one occasion when the seal starts to degrade
a bit - they seem to be notorious for that - so I'm reasonably certain they'd
just as happily leak air in as well if they're under suction as they are).
And I'm not too sure that having air bubbles in the fuel is altogether preferable
to water droplets.
Does anyone have any good suggestions on how to handle this? I definitely don't
expect to have to check for water after every flight as most would be drained
from the tank drains anyway. Screwing in just a simple plug works reliably
enough to keep the air out, but is a bit problematic to periodically check and
drain (fuel tends to get everywhere when you try to thread the plug back into
place). Is there a quick-drain suited for this sort of specific purpose? I'm
thinking of maybe something that screws in to have a positive seal to prevent
leakage, but unscrews slightly to let a bit of fuel drain out? Something better
than just a spring pushing against an O-ring, or having a plug that has to
be completely removed, in any event.
Thanks for any help or advice you might have!
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Advice for gascolator quick drains (extra info) |
I just realized a better way of describing the type of fuel drain that I imagine
might work perfectly for the gascolators under slight suction as I mentioned.
I'm thinking of something along a similar design to how the bleeder valves for
the brake lines work. The valve is held closed by screwing the mechanism shut,
but when the mechanism is unscrewed, fluid can flow through and out the centre
of the valve. Really, not all that dissimilar to how a regular tap works either.
Does such a thing exist with a relatively low profile and 1/4" NPT threads
that wouldn't protrude too far into the gascolator? Or does someone see
a problem with this type of approach?
But of course I'm open to any and all suggestions too!
Thanks!
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Getting wing lined up and pinned |
Hi list,
How difficult is it to get the wing lined up and pinned to the fuselage?
I had this idea that two people could lift the root while a third slips the
first pin in. Then we could lift the tip/pivot the wing around the pin
until the upper holes line up.
Or is this more complex than I'm thinking?
Thanks for the help,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice for gascolator quick drains |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Dan
I would use solid bungs with thread sealant. When I had gascolators located in
the wing roots I was very concerned about getting air into the fuel system.
I would not use quick drains.
Cheers
Les
PS: MDRA no longer "requires" gascolators provided functionality is met. Perhaps
you could remove yours arguing that they are no longer required.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478014#478014
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Getting wing lined up and pinned |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
David
I have had to do his twice. Each time it was remarkably easy. First off, I put
my bolts into dry ice overnight to shrink them slightly.
Then I used two of these lifts (https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/300-lb-dirt-bike-motorcycle-lift/A-p8667792e) that a friend had on hand. One at the wing tip and one at the root so I could tweak the wing angle.
As you suggest, I got one bolt in and the rest soon followed. I think it will be
awkward to do it manually as it may be tricky to keep things steady.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478016#478016
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting wing lined up and pinned |
Ideally, if you can round up three others to help, I'd put one each at the
leading and trailing edge of the root, one at the tip, and one to slip in
the bolts. They won't need a lot of force. Using a round-nosed "bullet"
helps line things up. As Les said, the first one is trickiest, then they
get easier.
--Dave
On Tue, Feb 13, 2018 at 9:46 AM, David Carr wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> How difficult is it to get the wing lined up and pinned to the fuselage?
>
> I had this idea that two people could lift the root while a third slips
> the first pin in. Then we could lift the tip/pivot the wing around the pin
> until the upper holes line up.
>
> Or is this more complex than I'm thinking?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> David
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting wing lined up and pinned |
Its easiest with 4 people, it you could do it with 3. Have one at the wingtip
and two at the wing root, one in front and one behind the wing. The one at the
back will need a screwdriver or something to spread the rear spar carry-through
so the rear space can fit into the slot. While holding the front of the wing,
the person in front or behind can sight through a bolt hole to verify alignment,
then the other person can put the bolt in place and tap it in. The person
at the wingtip will adjust his position to help alignment. Once one bolt is
in place on top, then the person at the wingtip will move up or down as necessary
to get a hole at the bottom to line up, then tap another bolt in place. Make
sure to grease the bolt before inserting. It will help them go in and come
back out when necessary. You can clean any grease from the threads for final installation.
Once 2 bolts are in place the rest will be much easier. I like to
use a 2x2 long enough to hit with a mallet in front of the front tank baffle
so I dont risk hitting the wing or the fuselage. Make sure any fittings in the
tank area dont get in the way of the bolts. It can happen easily.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 13, 2018, at 12:46 PM, David Carr wrote:
>
> Hi list,
>
> How difficult is it to get the wing lined up and pinned to the fuselage?
>
> I had this idea that two people could lift the root while a third slips the first
pin in. Then we could lift the tip/pivot the wing around the pin until the
upper holes line up.
>
> Or is this more complex than I'm thinking?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Someone told me they couldnt post to the list so Im testing it.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Must have been something going on...that took over 24 hours to show up.
Tim
> On Feb 13, 2018, at 9:17 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Someone told me they couldnt post to the list so Im testing it.
> Tim
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
I think the 24 hour delay occurs because of the international date line. If somebody
east of the line posts something on say Tuesday, it would show up on Monday
west of the line making people wonder about time travel and such. The 24 hour
delay removes the problem. People are comfortable with hours and days of delay
but don't want messages from the future in their inbox.
AG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2018 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Test
Must have been something going on...that took over 24 hours to show up.
Tim
> On Feb 13, 2018, at 9:17 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Someone told me they couldnt post to the list so Im testing it.
> Tim
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Getting wing lined up and pinned |
I used my rivet gun to tap them in.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Getting wing lined up and pinned
Its easiest with 4 people, it you could do it with 3. Have one at the wingtip
and two at the wing root, one in front and one behind the wing. The one at the
back will need a screwdriver or something to spread the rear spar carry-through
so the rear space can fit into the slot. While holding the front of the wing,
the person in front or behind can sight through a bolt hole to verify alignment,
then the other person can put the bolt in place and tap it in. The person
at the wingtip will adjust his position to help alignment. Once one bolt is
in place on top, then the person at the wingtip will move up or down as necessary
to get a hole at the bottom to line up, then tap another bolt in place. Make
sure to grease the bolt before inserting. It will help them go in and come
back out when necessary. You can clean any grease from the threads for final installation.
Once 2 bolts are in place the rest will be much easier. I like to
use a 2x2 long enough to hit with a mallet in fr!
ont of the front tank baffle so I dont risk hitting the wing or the fuselage.
Make sure any fittings in the tank area dont get in the way of the bolts. It can
happen easily.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 13, 2018, at 12:46 PM, David Carr wrote:
>
> Hi list,
>
> How difficult is it to get the wing lined up and pinned to the fuselage?
>
> I had this idea that two people could lift the root while a third slips the first
pin in. Then we could lift the tip/pivot the wing around the pin until the
upper holes line up.
>
> Or is this more complex than I'm thinking?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting wing lined up and pinned |
I found with pilot bolts that my spar web holes did not line up on left
wing with the holes in the square spar caps. (IOW the bolts wouldn't go
through wing spar by itself without the carry through. Vans advised me to
carefully use Dremel on back side of the web to enlarge web holes only to
match, and even though I had the right size reamer to NOT use the reamer
from the front side as it might remove material from the spar caps.
Used dry ice, LPS1 and drift pins with dead blow rubber mallet to get mine
in.
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 8:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> I used my rivet gun to tap them in.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Getting wing lined up and pinned
>
>
> It=99s easiest with 4 people, it you could do it with 3. Have one
at the
> wingtip and two at the wing root, one in front and one behind the wing. T
he
> one at the back will need a screwdriver or something to spread the rear
> spar carry-through so the rear space can fit into the slot. While holding
> the front of the wing, the person in front or behind can sight through a
> bolt hole to verify alignment, then the other person can put the bolt in
> place and tap it in. The person at the wingtip will adjust his position t
o
> help alignment. Once one bolt is in place on top, then the person at the
> wingtip will move up or down as necessary to get a hole at the bottom to
> line up, then tap another bolt in place. Make sure to grease the bolt
> before inserting. It will help them go in and come back out when necessar
y.
> You can clean any grease from the threads for final installation. Once 2
> bolts are in place the rest will be much easier. I like to use a 2x2 long
> enough to hit with a mallet in fr!
> ont of the front tank baffle so I don=99t risk hitting the wing or
the
> fuselage. Make sure any fittings in the tank area don=99t get in th
e way of
> the bolts. It can happen easily.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Feb 13, 2018, at 12:46 PM, David Carr wrote:
> >
> > Hi list,
> >
> > How difficult is it to get the wing lined up and pinned to the fuselage
?
> >
> > I had this idea that two people could lift the root while a third slips
> the first pin in. Then we could lift the tip/pivot the wing around the p
in
> until the upper holes line up.
> >
> > Or is this more complex than I'm thinking?
> >
> > Thanks for the help,
> > David
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
As I move forward with my -10 project, I am starting to give thought to selling
my flying -10 in the late summer.
I am interested in opinions as to what a -10 would sell for. My -10 has:
350 hrs, NDH
BPE engine dyno'd at 287 HP (9:1 compression / Cold Air Induction)
Showplanes cowl
MT 3 bladed prop
Dual AFS 4500's, GNS 430WAAS / SL30 / GTX325
TruTrak A/P with pitch trim
Built in O2
Leather interior
OH console
Center console
Nice paint
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ flying
C-GROK Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478090#478090
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Can you predict what the Looney will be worth then?
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 1:36 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> As I move forward with my -10 project, I am starting to give thought to
> selling my flying -10 in the late summer.
>
> I am interested in opinions as to what a -10 would sell for. My -10 has:
>
> 350 hrs, NDH
> BPE engine dyno'd at 287 HP (9:1 compression / Cold Air Induction)
> Showplanes cowl
> MT 3 bladed prop
> Dual AFS 4500's, GNS 430WAAS / SL30 / GTX325
> TruTrak A/P with pitch trim
> Built in O2
> Leather interior
> OH console
> Center console
> Nice paint
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ flying
> C-GROK Some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478090#478090
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
What=99s the Looney?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 18, 2018, at 9:38 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Can you predict what the Looney will be worth then?
>
> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>
>> On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 1:36 PM, kearney wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> As I move forward with my -10 project, I am starting to give thought to s
elling my flying -10 in the late summer.
>>
>> I am interested in opinions as to what a -10 would sell for. My -10 has:
>>
>> 350 hrs, NDH
>> BPE engine dyno'd at 287 HP (9:1 compression / Cold Air Induction)
>> Showplanes cowl
>> MT 3 bladed prop
>> Dual AFS 4500's, GNS 430WAAS / SL30 / GTX325
>> TruTrak A/P with pitch trim
>> Built in O2
>> Leather interior
>> OH console
>> Center console
>> Nice paint
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> C-GCWZ flying
>> C-GROK Some assembly required
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478090#478090
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I mispelled...Loonie, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loonie
On 2/18/2018 8:03 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> Whats the Looney?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 18, 2018, at 9:38 PM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
>> Can you predict what the Looney will be worth then?
>>
>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 1:36 PM, kearney > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> As I move forward with my -10 project, I am starting to give
>> thought to selling my flying -10 in the late summer.
>>
>> I am interested in opinions as to what a -10 would sell for. My
>> -10 has:
>>
>> 350 hrs, NDH
>> BPE engine dyno'd at 287 HP (9:1 compression / Cold Air Induction)
>> Showplanes cowl
>> MT 3 bladed prop
>> Dual AFS 4500's, GNS 430WAAS / SL30 / GTX325
>> TruTrak A/P with pitch trim
>> Built in O2
>> Leather interior
>> OH console
>> Center console
>> Nice paint
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> C-GCWZ flying
>> C-GROK Some assembly required
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478090#478090
>> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478090#478090>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Price it was n USD. No Exchange issue then.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 18, 2018, at 7:38 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Can you predict what the Looney will be worth then?
>
> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>
>> On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 1:36 PM, kearney wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> As I move forward with my -10 project, I am starting to give thought to s
elling my flying -10 in the late summer.
>>
>> I am interested in opinions as to what a -10 would sell for. My -10 has:
>>
>> 350 hrs, NDH
>> BPE engine dyno'd at 287 HP (9:1 compression / Cold Air Induction)
>> Showplanes cowl
>> MT 3 bladed prop
>> Dual AFS 4500's, GNS 430WAAS / SL30 / GTX325
>> TruTrak A/P with pitch trim
>> Built in O2
>> Leather interior
>> OH console
>> Center console
>> Nice paint
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> C-GCWZ flying
>> C-GROK Some assembly required
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478090#478090
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
It is a $1.00 Canadian that haze a Loon on the one side. Hence the name
=9CLoonie=9D. We obviously call the $2.00 coin a Toonie.
Speaking of which the US would do well to get rid of $1.00 bills as we did.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 18, 2018, at 8:03 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> What=99s the Looney?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Feb 18, 2018, at 9:38 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> Can you predict what the Looney will be worth then?
>>
>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>
>>> On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 1:36 PM, kearney wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> As I move forward with my -10 project, I am starting to give thought to s
elling my flying -10 in the late summer.
>>>
>>> I am interested in opinions as to what a -10 would sell for. My -10 has:
>>>
>>> 350 hrs, NDH
>>> BPE engine dyno'd at 287 HP (9:1 compression / Cold Air Induction)
>>> Showplanes cowl
>>> MT 3 bladed prop
>>> Dual AFS 4500's, GNS 430WAAS / SL30 / GTX325
>>> TruTrak A/P with pitch trim
>>> Built in O2
>>> Leather interior
>>> OH console
>>> Center console
>>> Nice paint
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Les
>>>
>>> C-GCWZ flying
>>> C-GROK Some assembly required
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478090#478090
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ========================
===========
>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List
>>> ========================
===========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ========================
===========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ========================
===========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
>>> ========================
===========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I can=99t speak to the value in the Canadian market, and I don=99
t know the exchange rate right now anyway. As for the $1 bill, you=99l
l have to talk to the Federal Reserve about that. They still mint pennies, s
o I doubt the $1 bill is going anywhere any time soon.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 18, 2018, at 11:06 PM, Kearney wrote:
>
> It is a $1.00 Canadian that haze a Loon on the one side. Hence the name
=9CLoonie=9D. We obviously call the $2.00 coin a Toonie.
>
> Speaking of which the US would do well to get rid of $1.00 bills as we did
.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Feb 18, 2018, at 8:03 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>> What=99s the Looney?
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Feb 18, 2018, at 9:38 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>> Can you predict what the Looney will be worth then?
>>>
>>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>>
>>>> On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 1:36 PM, kearney wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi
>>>>
>>>> As I move forward with my -10 project, I am starting to give thought to
selling my flying -10 in the late summer.
>>>>
>>>> I am interested in opinions as to what a -10 would sell for. My -10 has
:
>>>>
>>>> 350 hrs, NDH
>>>> BPE engine dyno'd at 287 HP (9:1 compression / Cold Air Induction)
>>>> Showplanes cowl
>>>> MT 3 bladed prop
>>>> Dual AFS 4500's, GNS 430WAAS / SL30 / GTX325
>>>> TruTrak A/P with pitch trim
>>>> Built in O2
>>>> Leather interior
>>>> OH console
>>>> Center console
>>>> Nice paint
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>>
>>>> Les
>>>>
>>>> C-GCWZ flying
>>>> C-GROK Some assembly required
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478090#478090
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ========================
===========
>>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Na
vigator?RV10-List
>>>> ========================
===========
>>>> FORUMS -
>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ========================
===========
>>>> WIKI -
>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ========================
===========
>>>> b Site -
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
>>>> ========================
===========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SureFly Electronic Ignition |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I have over 180 hours on the SureFly electronic ignitions and they have performed
well. So well, I installed 2. (I have 2 independent electrical systems with
2 alternators and 2 batteries.)
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478109#478109
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Mara <mara(at)leasenet.net> |
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477970#477970
--
------------------------------
The information contained in this email and all attachments are the
property of LeaseNet Services, LLC. If you have received this email in
error, please delete it from all devices.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: SureFly Electronic Ignition |
Any pictures of the ignition system installations please Dave?
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 20 Feb 2018, at 01:30, nukeflyboy wrote:
>
>
> I have over 180 hours on the SureFly electronic ignitions and they have performed
well. So well, I installed 2. (I have 2 independent electrical systems
with 2 alternators and 2 batteries.)
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 built and sold
> RV-10 built and flying
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478109#478109
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SureFly Electronic Ignition |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Sorry, no photos. The installation is easy. Swap your mag for the unit and add
a power source. Used same harness as the mag. Can use fine wire Tempest plugs
or keep the heavy ones.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478171#478171
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Im not in the market so I dont have a finger on its pulse, but just from casual
observation, I would say (hope) that a solidly built, decently equipped, RV10
should command north of 200k USD. It competes (well) against a lot more mission
types and certified offerings and therefore enjoys a broader market than the
average home built sportplane IMO.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478177#478177
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kitlog Data Base |
| From: | "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com> |
A computer crash doesn't necessarily corrupt your backup files. Even if the hard
drive failed, the data should still be there...at least most of it. Have you
tried reinstalling kit log and then trying the backup?
I'm not sure if you can get the data from the website...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478228#478228
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kitlog Data Base |
| From: | "leok" <leo.s.knowlden(at)gm.com> |
Been there, done that.
I was able to recover my database file, but could not get the new computer to recognize
and use it. I asked if the online web data could be downloaded and was
told no. In the end, i used the web version and the most recent report I had
done to rebuild my log. It took a few hours, but wasn't hard with two screens
hooked up to my computer.
It also seems to work best sending emails to get support. Matt has answered most
questions multiple times and can quickly send you instructions.
--------
Leok
"Make no small plans, for small plans have no magic to inspire the minds of
men"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478233#478233
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Standby Alternator |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I am planning to use a B&C alternator as a backup mounted on the vacuum pad of
my engine.
Has anyone used a B&C BC462-3H alternator. I am interested in confirming that it
will fit on the back of the engine. As I will be using a 90 degree oil filter
adapter I will also be using the required spacer.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ Flying
C-GROK Somewhat less assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478239#478239
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Condrey <condreyb(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standby Alternator |
Les,
Call them or email B&C direct to check. Using their Oil Filter Adapter
(needs a spacer to clear the engine mount) with either their old SD-20 or
their current BC410H there was a requirement for a spacer on the alternator
also.
Bob
On Sat, Feb 24, 2018 at 9:16 PM kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am planning to use a B&C alternator as a backup mounted on the vacuum
> pad of my engine.
>
> Has anyone used a B&C BC462-3H alternator. I am interested in confirming
> that it will fit on the back of the engine. As I will be using a 90 degree
> oil filter adapter I will also be using the required spacer.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Somewhat less assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478239#478239
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Standby Alternator |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Bob
I did speak to TJ at B&C yesterday. He was most helpful in deciding which alternator
would be best for my application. He also spoke about the spacers.
I just wanted to see if anyone else has done this and find out what, if any, issues
they ran into.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478242#478242
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Jones <rjones560xl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standby Alternator |
Are you using the Lycoming horizontal adapter? If so that alternator wont fit.
However it will work with the B&C 90 degree adapter. Just check there sight or
call them. They are very knowledgeable and helpful. I have the BC-410H on my
540 and it fits fine with the B&C 90 degree oil filter adapter.
Robert Jones
> On Feb 24, 2018, at 20:12, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I am planning to use a B&C alternator as a backup mounted on the vacuum pad of
my engine.
>
> Has anyone used a B&C BC462-3H alternator. I am interested in confirming that
it will fit on the back of the engine. As I will be using a 90 degree oil filter
adapter I will also be using the required spacer.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK Somewhat less assembly required
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478239#478239
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Standby Alternator |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
I had a 2.5 inch spacer for my oil filter adapter thinking that would clear space
for the alternator but after getting the alternator spacing kit found out I
neeeded to shorten the oil adaptor by half so had a machinist cut it down to
fit.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478303#478303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Standby Alternator |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I spoke to B &C again after conforming which oil filter adapter my engine builder
would be using - it is from B&C . Here is what I received from B&C via email:
If memory serves, your IO-540 will be going in an RV-10; and with that in mind,
here is what would be needed:
BC700-H Oil Filter Adapter
FK502-1.4 OFA Spacer Kit (1.4)
BC462-3H Alternator
FK710-1.25 Alternator Drive Extension/Spacer Kit (1.25)
Regarding your questions: yes, there are indeed two spacers involved a 1.4 spacer
for the BC700-H Oil Filter Adapter, so that it clears the RV-10 engine mount,
and a 1.25 drive extension/spacer for the BC462-3H Alternator, so that it
clears the Oil Filter Adapter. As I might have mentioned on the phone, the above
makes for a tight installation but it should space everything out so that
the interferences are negotiated.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478304#478304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Standby Alternator |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Sounds like youre getting exactly what you need.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478305#478305
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standby Alternator |
Back in 2008, when I was trying to figure out how to fit the SD-20 alternator and
the oil filter, I tried every combination I could find and could not make it
work. I had more than one conversation with B&C. They were very helpful and
even suggested I look at competitors oil filter spacers when we could not get
the B&C to fit. I suspect that the alternator drive extension was not available
back in those days. I ended up putting my oil filter on the firewall with the
Airwolf system and have always been grateful that things worked out as they
did. Oil changes are a breeze with the Airwolf remote oil filter.
David Maib
40559
On Feb 27, 2018, at 9:23 PM, kearney wrote:
Hi
I spoke to B &C again after conforming which oil filter adapter my engine builder
would be using - it is from B&C . Here is what I received from B&C via email:
If memory serves, your IO-540 will be going in an RV-10; and with that in mind,
here is what would be needed:
BC700-H Oil Filter Adapter
FK502-1.4 OFA Spacer Kit (1.4)
BC462-3H Alternator
FK710-1.25 Alternator Drive Extension/Spacer Kit (1.25)
Regarding your questions: yes, there are indeed two spacers involved a 1.4 spacer
for the BC700-H Oil Filter Adapter, so that it clears the RV-10 engine mount,
and a 1.25 drive extension/spacer for the BC462-3H Alternator, so that it
clears the Oil Filter Adapter. As I might have mentioned on the phone, the above
makes for a tight installation but it should space everything out so that
the interferences are negotiated.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478304#478304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Just curious for those flying with an iPad Mini
Where do you mount it
and what mount do you use?
Regards,
Alan
N668G
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
Mine sits on the back seat most of the time.
For a little while I mounted in on a the cabin cover support bar above the glareshield.
It was on a short adapter that positioned it just above the intercom.
In my case, it's a third backup for maps and charts. As such, I almost never
use it in the air.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD
Sent: Sunday, March 4, 2018 3:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: iPad mini
Just curious for those flying with an iPad Mini Where do you mount it and what
mount do you use?
Regards,
Alan
N668G
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Im using it with the Avidyne ifd100 app with my Avidyne 440
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 4, 2018, at 4:05 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> Mine sits on the back seat most of the time.
>
> For a little while I mounted in on a the cabin cover support bar above the glareshield.
It was on a short adapter that positioned it just above the intercom.
>
> In my case, it's a third backup for maps and charts. As such, I almost never
use it in the air.
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD
> Sent: Sunday, March 4, 2018 3:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: iPad mini
>
>
> Just curious for those flying with an iPad Mini Where do you mount it and what
mount do you use?
> Regards,
> Alan
> N668G
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com> |
This is an old picture; th e 696 in the center was replaced by a mini some
time ago.
When the 696 was there, I used the mount you see on the left side wall for
the mini. That ball is still there and I could just as easily use it but I
never do. It=99s much handier in the center, especially when I fly w
ith
someone else who wants to use it.
The center mount is a combo of a 6=9D arm and a 2=9D arm. It ha
s a knuckle
between them called a ball adapter. The iPad mounts in an X-Naut tray that
has cooling fans, which is a necessity.
=94Dave
[image: JPEG image]
Glass Panel.jpg
On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 13:53 Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> Just curious for those flying with an iPad Mini
> Where do you mount it
> and what mount do you use?
> Regards,
> Alan
> N668G
>
> Sent from my iPhone
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com> |
Done =9C=85
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 4, 2018, at 7:54 PM, David Saylor wrote:
>
> This is an old picture; th e 696 in the center was replaced by a mini som
e time ago.
>
> When the 696 was there, I used the mount you see on the left side wall for
the mini. That ball is still there and I could just as easily use it but I
never do. It=99s much handier in the center, especially when I fly w
ith someone else who wants to use it.
>
> The center mount is a combo of a 6=9D arm and a 2=9D arm. It h
as a knuckle between them called a ball adapter. The iPad mounts in an X-Nau
t tray that has cooling fans, which is a necessity.
>
> =94Dave
> Glass Panel.jpg
>
>> On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 13:53 Alan Mekler MD wrote
:
>>
>> Just curious for those flying with an iPad Mini
>> Where do you mount it
>> and what mount do you use?
>> Regards,
>> Alan
>> N668G
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
I've got a kneeboard holder for my iPad mini, and can't imagine it anywhere else.
Especially since I sometimes use it to jot down notes within Foreflight, or
even as a hard back for writing notes on paper if I have to. And even with
3 EFIS screens in the cockpit, I've come to rely on it being there.
Dan
> On 2018-Mar-04, at 1:48 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
>
> Just curious for those flying with an iPad Mini
> Where do you mount it
> and what mount do you use?
> Regards,
> Alan
> N668G
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
dan,
thats what i do now just don=99t like all the head down movement
to see it while imc.
alan
> On Mar 4, 2018, at 9:08 PM, Robert Brunkenhoefer
wrote:
>
> Done =9C=85
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 4, 2018, at 7:54 PM, David Saylor > wrote:
>
>> This is an old picture; th e 696 in the center was replaced by a
mini some time ago.
>>
>> When the 696 was there, I used the mount you see on the left side
wall for the mini. That ball is still there and I could just as easily
use it but I never do. It=99s much handier in the center,
especially when I fly with someone else who wants to use it.
>>
>> The center mount is a combo of a 6=9D arm and a 2=9D arm.
It has a knuckle between them called a ball adapter. The iPad mounts in
an X-Naut tray that has cooling fans, which is a necessity.
>>
>> =94Dave
>> Glass Panel.jpg
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 13:53 Alan Mekler MD > wrote:
>
>>
>> Just curious for those flying with an iPad Mini
>> Where do you mount it
>> and what mount do you use?
>> Regards,
>> Alan
>> N668G
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
<http://wiki.matronics.com/>
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tshort" <tmshort(at)gmail.com> |
Before the panel upgrade I mounted mine to the lower left of the windshield using
a suction mount and the mygoflight suction mount:
http://mgfproducts.com/sport-mount-flex-suction/
The flex arm is very well made, locks in position with a single twist lock. Super
solid for 100hr or so of flying.
After the upgrade (3 screen G3X) I'm not sure I'll mount it or use it, I suspect
it will be relegated to the back seat / flight bag as a backup.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478390#478390
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Thanks
Will take a look
Being right handed it is
Inconvenient to have it on the left side
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 5, 2018, at 6:57 AM, tshort wrote:
>
>
> Before the panel upgrade I mounted mine to the lower left of the windshield using
a suction mount and the mygoflight suction mount:
>
> http://mgfproducts.com/sport-mount-flex-suction/
>
> The flex arm is very well made, locks in position with a single twist lock.
Super solid for 100hr or so of flying.
>
> After the upgrade (3 screen G3X) I'm not sure I'll mount it or use it, I suspect
it will be relegated to the back seat / flight bag as a backup.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478390#478390
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
My reason for using a mini instead of a full size is that I can just lay it on
my lap. When I want to look at it, I pick it up and hold it close to my line of
sight to the EFIS. When vfr I usually just lay it on the center tunnel.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478406#478406
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Everyone knows that VANS makes a great kit. That being said, some of the kit components
do seem like that they are ex the iron works of Mordor.
IMHO, the rudder pedals and brake lines supplied as part of the VANS kit really
don't do the -10 justice. In my flying -10, I installed Paul Grimstad's after
market pedals.. I have been very happy with them. They really look like they
"belong'".
For my current project I went back to Paul and got his current pedal iteration.
It is lighter and equally appropriate in a -10 fuse.
For those interested, here is a link to his website: http://controlapproach.com/products/experimental-aircraft-products/rv10-rudder-pedal-system
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478432#478432
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0144_108.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
I am most happy with my Control Approach pedals.
Sure grip for feet.
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Tue, Mar 6, 2018 at 7:28 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Everyone knows that VANS makes a great kit. That being said, some of the
> kit components do seem like that they are ex the iron works of Mordor.
>
> IMHO, the rudder pedals and brake lines supplied as part of the VANS kit
> really don't do the -10 justice. In my flying -10, I installed Paul
> Grimstad's after market pedals.. I have been very happy with them. They
> really look like they "belong'".
>
> For my current project I went back to Paul and got his current pedal
> iteration. It is lighter and equally appropriate in a -10 fuse.
>
> For those interested, here is a link to his website:
> http://controlapproach.com/products/experimental-
> aircraft-products/rv10-rudder-pedal-system
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478432#478432
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0144_108.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I'd agree. I've never found them aesthetically unpleasing and they work
just fine. In my case I don't even have the extension and don't have a
problem
keeping off the brakes. Plus they do make those aftermarket rubber pedals
with upper and lower push areas, if someone really has to have that.
There are plenty of ways to spend extra thousands of dollars...but
having just
signed on to SiriusXM today, I'd rather spend it on 4 years of satellite wx.
To each his own I guess.
To those who ask why XM when ADS-B is free....ADS-B coverage sucks
at low altitudes and you don't have it when you need it most.
Tim
On 3/7/2018 8:39 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
> I find the stock rudder pedal setup works just fine - after I added a simple
> extension to keep my toes off the brakes. I buddy of mine made these on his
> milling machine. He still has the pattern if anyone is interested.
>
> $2000 will buy a lot of avgas.
>
> Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Re ADSB coverage: Tim, is that primarily a 'midwest' issue in your
experience? I was previously a XM subscriber and definitely preferred
their wx products but I'm getting ADSB coverage everywhere I'm looking
for it on the east coast and the price remains right. Just wondering....
I painted my Vans pedals (the pads with the holes) in silver and they
really look spiffy - like stainless. Didn't see that coming. Those
aftermarkets look pretty spiffy as well.
Bill "wondering if 1,000 hours marks the beginning of some kind of a
'things fail and wear-out' mode" Watson
On 3/7/2018 10:00 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I'd agree. I've never found them aesthetically unpleasing and they work
> just fine. In my case I don't even have the extension and don't have
> a problem
> keeping off the brakes. Plus they do make those aftermarket rubber
> pedals
> with upper and lower push areas, if someone really has to have that.
> There are plenty of ways to spend extra thousands of dollars...but
> having just
> signed on to SiriusXM today, I'd rather spend it on 4 years of
> satellite wx.
> To each his own I guess.
>
> To those who ask why XM when ADS-B is free....ADS-B coverage sucks
> at low altitudes and you don't have it when you need it most.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 3/7/2018 8:39 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>> I find the stock rudder pedal setup works just fine - after I added a
>> simple
>> extension to keep my toes off the brakes. I buddy of mine made these
>> on his
>> milling machine. He still has the pattern if anyone is interested.
>>
>> $2000 will buy a lot of avgas.
>>
>> Carl
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
I have these pedals (photo attached). They work great, but still don
=99t fix the sticking master cylinder issue. Just recently had some
badly warped rotors because of dragging brakes.
Saw someone put plastic Heyco bushings in the lightning holes of their
stock pedals. It make it look really cool, and probably saves the
powdercoating from wearing off.
Lenny
> On Mar 7, 2018, at 10:00 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I'd agree. I've never found them aesthetically unpleasing and they
work
> just fine. In my case I don't even have the extension and don't have
a problem
> keeping off the brakes. Plus they do make those aftermarket rubber
pedals
> with upper and lower push areas, if someone really has to have that.
> There are plenty of ways to spend extra thousands of dollars...but
having just
> signed on to SiriusXM today, I'd rather spend it on 4 years of
satellite wx.
> To each his own I guess.
>
> To those who ask why XM when ADS-B is free....ADS-B coverage sucks
> at low altitudes and you don't have it when you need it most.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 3/7/2018 8:39 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>> I find the stock rudder pedal setup works just fine - after I added a
simple
>> extension to keep my toes off the brakes. I buddy of mine made these
on his
>> milling machine. He still has the pattern if anyone is interested.
>>
>> $2000 will buy a lot of avgas.
>>
>> Carl
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I would say if you live on the East coast, you'll probably have it
better than most people in the country.
Certainly the coverage is better and the terrain is flatter. Where it
really falls apart is
in the center of the country and heading west, and in the mountains in
areas too.
It depends on what you're flight altitude is, and the season, especially.
Like for instance, one spring trip around here, we had cold temps with
icing conditions
all over, but VFR underneath. The ceilings being 1200' or so. Well,
that's fine if
you have good viz underneath...no reason to cancel a trip to the
tropics, or to not
be able to get home. But, you will find that under 3000-3500' of
altitude the
coverage is horrible in much of the country. Maybe it's summertime and
there
are thunderstorms and clouds...I never want to fly instruments when
there are
lots of thunderstorms all in my path, so I'll duck under where I can
stay VFR and
make decisions on the conditions and do lots of deviations. That
doesn't play
well always either with the altitude restrictions of ADS-B. Even by my
own airport
and flying to the local town that is 80,000+ people and one of the only
bigger
cities in our part of the state, we have to be at 3,000-3500' before we
get any
weather info. In the rainy periods of the year, this makes it again
impossible to
have the data you need to avoid storm cells and make decisions that may give
you a good route to your destination. When I took the plane to idaho
with ADS-B
only, we had <2000' ceilings just east of the rockies in Wyoming....with
great
clear skies under the overcast. No weather info to be had, which means no
current wind info for your possible fuel stops.
So what I find is, if you are flying something heavier that you are
always going to
fly high, and cruise at maybe 8,000-16,000', sure, FIS-B will probably
work for you
if you don't care about the weather picture when you're on the ground.
But for any serious x/c travel, if you are NOT interested in getting
into icing,
and NOT interested in flying inside clouds with embeded thunderstorms
anywhere nearby, or you need to fly at 1,000-3,000' for avoiding turbulence
or weather, you will be lacking all of the data you need to do it safely.
I distinctly remember a flight home from OSH in the Sundowner years ago,
started at 7,000 IFR, but with big black clouds to the North, ended
cancelling
and going lower to get home VFR. I had no weather data, and no fuel
totalizer,
and had an extended taxi at OSH. I felt completely at a loss for
information and
had to divert and stop and sit on the ground until I could get good weather
data. As it turned out, if I'd have had a fuel totalizer, and any kind
of in-cockpit
weather, I would have known my fuel situation was "plenty" and a 10 minute
diversion could have put me on the back side in completely clear skies,
where
I'd have been able to get home. In fact, by phone, people at home told me
there wasn't a cloud in the sky...I just needed to take the right route.
FIS-B is a big letdown of coverage. If the feds DOUBLED the number of
uplinks, I'd say it may finally just be good enough. The way it is now,
I think they should have skipped FIS-B altogether and just given a free
base package of satellite weather to every pilot, with Nexrad, metars,
and TAF's and TFR's. Then let them buy additional.
At least in my past 1500 hours in the RV's now, I can say that satellite wx
was one of the biggest things that enabled successful trips, and is
probably the
last piece of technology I'd want to remove from the plane, even as
far as the EFIS goes. I'll fly a six-pack if I have to, but you have to pry
the weather data from my hands.
Tim
On 3/7/2018 10:02 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Re ADSB coverage: Tim, is that primarily a 'midwest' issue in your
> experience? I was previously a XM subscriber and definitely
> preferred their wx products but I'm getting ADSB coverage everywhere
> I'm looking for it on the east coast and the price remains right.
> Just wondering....
>
> I painted my Vans pedals (the pads with the holes) in silver and they
> really look spiffy - like stainless. Didn't see that coming. Those
> aftermarkets look pretty spiffy as well.
>
> Bill "wondering if 1,000 hours marks the beginning of some kind of
> a 'things fail and wear-out' mode" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I'm curious, how are those pedals balanced as far as a tendency to tip
forward or aft?
Not being critical at all, just wondering. I know that when I added the
pedal blocks
to mine for the girls, I set them up and they actually are weighted so
that they would
help to retract the pedal. I also remember people in the past adding
return springs
to the master cylinder. (is that what I see by the hose on the picture?)
Is it possible that the weighting of the pedal maybe assisted in adding
to the
brake drag? Just thinking out loud. If that were true, maybe a slight
change in the
position of the lower pad could make a difference.
I've not run into problems with the stock setup, but I know people who have,
and I've always been curious as to what would be so different. I know that
a few people have gone to a singe long hinge bolt, and I know that over
tightening
the bolts can really be a big problem. But other that that I can't find any
serious flaws in the stock system. Van's did improve the pedal itself
in the
RV-14 kit, so for new builders, you may want to swap parts for the
actual metal pedal itself. from the -14. Everything else is the same.
Tim
On 3/7/2018 10:10 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
> I have these pedals (photo attached). They work great, but still dont
> fix the sticking master cylinder issue. Just recently had some badly
> warped rotors because of dragging brakes.
>
> Saw someone put plastic Heyco bushings in the lightning holes of their
> stock pedals. It make it look really cool, and probably saves the
> powdercoating from wearing off.
>
> Lenny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
The pedal geometry is exactly the same as stock. I havent checked their balance
but thats a good point.
I did add return springs and they seem to be helping, but Im going to switch them
out to clock springs, cause according to Matco the current ones are eventually
going to wear out the master cylinder shaft.
Lenny
> On Mar 7, 2018, at 11:34 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I'm curious, how are those pedals balanced as far as a tendency to tip forward
or aft?
> Not being critical at all, just wondering. I know that when I added the pedal
blocks
> to mine for the girls, I set them up and they actually are weighted so that they
would
> help to retract the pedal. I also remember people in the past adding return
springs
> to the master cylinder. (is that what I see by the hose on the picture?)
> Is it possible that the weighting of the pedal maybe assisted in adding to the
> brake drag? Just thinking out loud. If that were true, maybe a slight change
in the
> position of the lower pad could make a difference.
>
> I've not run into problems with the stock setup, but I know people who have,
> and I've always been curious as to what would be so different. I know that
> a few people have gone to a singe long hinge bolt, and I know that over tightening
> the bolts can really be a big problem. But other that that I can't find any
> serious flaws in the stock system. Van's did improve the pedal itself in the
> RV-14 kit, so for new builders, you may want to swap parts for the
> actual metal pedal itself. from the -14. Everything else is the same.
> Tim
>
>
>
>
> On 3/7/2018 10:10 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>> I have these pedals (photo attached). They work great, but still dont fix the
sticking master cylinder issue. Just recently had some badly warped rotors because
of dragging brakes.
>>
>> Saw someone put plastic Heyco bushings in the lightning holes of their stock
pedals. It make it look really cool, and probably saves the powdercoating from
wearing off.
>>
>> Lenny
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
I wholeheartedly agree with Tims assessment. XM WX on my 396 is a permanent fixture
in my 10 with the ADS-B WX the backup!
grumpy
> On Mar 7, 2018, at 10:26 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I would say if you live on the East coast, you'll probably have it better than
most people in the country.
> Certainly the coverage is better and the terrain is flatter. Where it really
falls apart is
> in the center of the country and heading west, and in the mountains in areas
too.
> It depends on what you're flight altitude is, and the season, especially.
> Like for instance, one spring trip around here, we had cold temps with icing
conditions
> all over, but VFR underneath. The ceilings being 1200' or so. Well, that's fine
if
> you have good viz underneath...no reason to cancel a trip to the tropics, or
to not
> be able to get home. But, you will find that under 3000-3500' of altitude the
> coverage is horrible in much of the country. Maybe it's summertime and there
> are thunderstorms and clouds...I never want to fly instruments when there are
> lots of thunderstorms all in my path, so I'll duck under where I can stay VFR
and
> make decisions on the conditions and do lots of deviations. That doesn't play
> well always either with the altitude restrictions of ADS-B. Even by my own airport
> and flying to the local town that is 80,000+ people and one of the only bigger
> cities in our part of the state, we have to be at 3,000-3500' before we get any
> weather info. In the rainy periods of the year, this makes it again impossible
to
> have the data you need to avoid storm cells and make decisions that may give
> you a good route to your destination. When I took the plane to idaho with ADS-B
> only, we had <2000' ceilings just east of the rockies in Wyoming....with great
> clear skies under the overcast. No weather info to be had, which means no
> current wind info for your possible fuel stops.
>
> So what I find is, if you are flying something heavier that you are always going
to
> fly high, and cruise at maybe 8,000-16,000', sure, FIS-B will probably work for
you
> if you don't care about the weather picture when you're on the ground.
> But for any serious x/c travel, if you are NOT interested in getting into icing,
> and NOT interested in flying inside clouds with embeded thunderstorms
> anywhere nearby, or you need to fly at 1,000-3,000' for avoiding turbulence
> or weather, you will be lacking all of the data you need to do it safely.
>
> I distinctly remember a flight home from OSH in the Sundowner years ago,
> started at 7,000 IFR, but with big black clouds to the North, ended cancelling
> and going lower to get home VFR. I had no weather data, and no fuel totalizer,
> and had an extended taxi at OSH. I felt completely at a loss for information
and
> had to divert and stop and sit on the ground until I could get good weather
> data. As it turned out, if I'd have had a fuel totalizer, and any kind of in-cockpit
> weather, I would have known my fuel situation was "plenty" and a 10 minute
> diversion could have put me on the back side in completely clear skies, where
> I'd have been able to get home. In fact, by phone, people at home told me
> there wasn't a cloud in the sky...I just needed to take the right route.
>
> FIS-B is a big letdown of coverage. If the feds DOUBLED the number of
> uplinks, I'd say it may finally just be good enough. The way it is now,
> I think they should have skipped FIS-B altogether and just given a free
> base package of satellite weather to every pilot, with Nexrad, metars,
> and TAF's and TFR's. Then let them buy additional.
>
> At least in my past 1500 hours in the RV's now, I can say that satellite wx
> was one of the biggest things that enabled successful trips, and is probably
the
> last piece of technology I'd want to remove from the plane, even as
> far as the EFIS goes. I'll fly a six-pack if I have to, but you have to pry
> the weather data from my hands.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 3/7/2018 10:02 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Re ADSB coverage: Tim, is that primarily a 'midwest' issue in your experience?
I was previously a XM subscriber and definitely preferred their wx products
but I'm getting ADSB coverage everywhere I'm looking for it on the east coast
and the price remains right. Just wondering....
>>
>> I painted my Vans pedals (the pads with the holes) in silver and they really
look spiffy - like stainless. Didn't see that coming. Those aftermarkets look
pretty spiffy as well.
>>
>> Bill "wondering if 1,000 hours marks the beginning of some kind of a 'things
fail and wear-out' mode" Watson
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Yes, that sounds different that what I normally encounter in the east
and southeast.
I can get ADSB weather practically down to the ground, or at least as
close to the ground as I normally find myself looking for wx info. A
couple of years ago I had an odd situation where I could take off from
my home field (8NC8) and fly to KTTA, passing by KRDU, and would not get
any ADSB data until very short final at KTTA. However, taking off from
KTTA and flying home, I would have ADSB data all the way back.
Sometimes rec'ng ADSB data on the ground at 8NC8. Power down and then
back up - no ADSB. Navworx worked with me (!!!) to try and fix it. We
concluded it was an ADSB 'network' problem and sure enough, full service
appeared magically a few months later. (Yes, I'm still runnning Navworx
with the AMOC successfully)
Otherwise, flying underneath a low ceiling to avoid ice is not common
solution in the SE, at least for me. But I do plenty of flying under
the icy overcast out of KAGC (Pittsburgh) and I consistently get ADSB at
1500' AGL when needed. Same with T-storms. Normally flying above
cloud base, which often between 4 and 6k, is enough to allow convective
storm avoidance via the requested deviation. Only rarely do I run into
situations where getting underneath is preferable. Surface 'bumpiness',
i.e. hills and antenna make me think twice about it anyway.
As a wise and experienced aviator said recently, "At least in my past
1500 hours in the RV's now, I can say that satellite wx was one of the
biggest things that enabled successful trips, and is probably the last
piece of technology I'd want to remove from the plane, even as far as
the EFIS goes. I'll fly a six-pack if I have to, but you have to pry
the weather data from my hands." Indeed.
It has been that way for me since I first laid eyes on Nexrad imagery in
the cockpit using CheapBastard software on the communicating Palm Pilot
(anyone else here ever use it?). Then the 396 came out with XM and my
little Maule with its 6-pack felt like a EA6 Prowler bristling with
antennas. In fact for that first year or so with the 396 it was great
fun to mix it up with jet traffic that would be holding outside say KJAX
because of a line of thunder-bumpers while I snaked my way in behind
it. They had radar, but I could see around corners.
Five minutes later it seemed like everyone had a 396 in the bag - radar
capable or not.
On 3/7/2018 11:26 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I would say if you live on the East coast, you'll probably have it
> better than most people in the country.
> Certainly the coverage is better and the terrain is flatter. Where it
> really falls apart is
> in the center of the country and heading west, and in the mountains in
> areas too.
> It depends on what you're flight altitude is, and the season, especially.
> Like for instance, one spring trip around here, we had cold temps with
> icing conditions
> all over, but VFR underneath. The ceilings being 1200' or so. Well,
> that's fine if
> you have good viz underneath...no reason to cancel a trip to the
> tropics, or to not
> be able to get home. But, you will find that under 3000-3500' of
> altitude the
> coverage is horrible in much of the country. Maybe it's summertime
> and there
> are thunderstorms and clouds...I never want to fly instruments when
> there are
> lots of thunderstorms all in my path, so I'll duck under where I can
> stay VFR and
> make decisions on the conditions and do lots of deviations. That
> doesn't play
> well always either with the altitude restrictions of ADS-B. Even by
> my own airport
> and flying to the local town that is 80,000+ people and one of the
> only bigger
> cities in our part of the state, we have to be at 3,000-3500' before
> we get any
> weather info. In the rainy periods of the year, this makes it again
> impossible to
> have the data you need to avoid storm cells and make decisions that
> may give
> you a good route to your destination. When I took the plane to idaho
> with ADS-B
> only, we had <2000' ceilings just east of the rockies in
> Wyoming....with great
> clear skies under the overcast. No weather info to be had, which
> means no
> current wind info for your possible fuel stops.
>
> So what I find is, if you are flying something heavier that you are
> always going to
> fly high, and cruise at maybe 8,000-16,000', sure, FIS-B will probably
> work for you
> if you don't care about the weather picture when you're on the ground.
> But for any serious x/c travel, if you are NOT interested in getting
> into icing,
> and NOT interested in flying inside clouds with embeded thunderstorms
> anywhere nearby, or you need to fly at 1,000-3,000' for avoiding
> turbulence
> or weather, you will be lacking all of the data you need to do it safely.
>
> I distinctly remember a flight home from OSH in the Sundowner years ago,
> started at 7,000 IFR, but with big black clouds to the North, ended
> cancelling
> and going lower to get home VFR. I had no weather data, and no fuel
> totalizer,
> and had an extended taxi at OSH. I felt completely at a loss for
> information and
> had to divert and stop and sit on the ground until I could get good
> weather
> data. As it turned out, if I'd have had a fuel totalizer, and any
> kind of in-cockpit
> weather, I would have known my fuel situation was "plenty" and a 10
> minute
> diversion could have put me on the back side in completely clear
> skies, where
> I'd have been able to get home. In fact, by phone, people at home
> told me
> there wasn't a cloud in the sky...I just needed to take the right route.
>
> FIS-B is a big letdown of coverage. If the feds DOUBLED the number of
> uplinks, I'd say it may finally just be good enough. The way it is now,
> I think they should have skipped FIS-B altogether and just given a free
> base package of satellite weather to every pilot, with Nexrad, metars,
> and TAF's and TFR's. Then let them buy additional.
>
> At least in my past 1500 hours in the RV's now, I can say that
> satellite wx
> was one of the biggest things that enabled successful trips, and is
> probably the
> last piece of technology I'd want to remove from the plane, even as
> far as the EFIS goes. I'll fly a six-pack if I have to, but you have
> to pry
> the weather data from my hands.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 3/7/2018 10:02 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Re ADSB coverage: Tim, is that primarily a 'midwest' issue in your
>> experience? I was previously a XM subscriber and definitely
>> preferred their wx products but I'm getting ADSB coverage everywhere
>> I'm looking for it on the east coast and the price remains right.
>> Just wondering....
>>
>> I painted my Vans pedals (the pads with the holes) in silver and
>> they really look spiffy - like stainless. Didn't see that coming.
>> Those aftermarkets look pretty spiffy as well.
>>
>> Bill "wondering if 1,000 hours marks the beginning of some kind of
>> a 'things fail and wear-out' mode" Watson
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
...and if you are low enough 4G LTE works too.
-Chris
N919AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals
Yes, that sounds different that what I normally encounter in the east and
southeast.
I can get ADSB weather practically down to the ground, or at least as close
to the ground as I normally find myself looking for wx info. A couple of
years ago I had an odd situation where I could take off from my home field
(8NC8) and fly to KTTA, passing by KRDU, and would not get any ADSB data
until very short final at KTTA. However, taking off from KTTA and flying
home, I would have ADSB data all the way back. Sometimes rec'ng ADSB data on
the ground at 8NC8. Power down and then back up - no ADSB. Navworx worked
with me (!!!) to try and fix it. We concluded it was an ADSB 'network'
problem and sure enough, full service appeared magically a few months
later. (Yes, I'm still runnning Navworx with the AMOC successfully)
Otherwise, flying underneath a low ceiling to avoid ice is not common
solution in the SE, at least for me. But I do plenty of flying under the
icy overcast out of KAGC (Pittsburgh) and I consistently get ADSB at 1500'
AGL when needed. Same with T-storms. Normally flying above cloud base,
which often between 4 and 6k, is enough to allow convective storm avoidance
via the requested deviation. Only rarely do I run into situations where
getting underneath is preferable. Surface 'bumpiness', i.e. hills and
antenna make me think twice about it anyway.
As a wise and experienced aviator said recently, "At least in my past
1500 hours in the RV's now, I can say that satellite wx was one of the
biggest things that enabled successful trips, and is probably the last piece
of technology I'd want to remove from the plane, even as far as the EFIS
goes. I'll fly a six-pack if I have to, but you have to pry the weather
data from my hands." Indeed.
It has been that way for me since I first laid eyes on Nexrad imagery in the
cockpit using CheapBastard software on the communicating Palm Pilot (anyone
else here ever use it?). Then the 396 came out with XM and my little Maule
with its 6-pack felt like a EA6 Prowler bristling with antennas. In fact
for that first year or so with the 396 it was great fun to mix it up with
jet traffic that would be holding outside say KJAX because of a line of
thunder-bumpers while I snaked my way in behind it. They had radar, but I
could see around corners.
Five minutes later it seemed like everyone had a 396 in the bag - radar
capable or not.
On 3/7/2018 11:26 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I would say if you live on the East coast, you'll probably have it
> better than most people in the country.
> Certainly the coverage is better and the terrain is flatter. Where it
> really falls apart is in the center of the country and heading west,
> and in the mountains in areas too.
> It depends on what you're flight altitude is, and the season, especially.
> Like for instance, one spring trip around here, we had cold temps with
> icing conditions all over, but VFR underneath. The ceilings being
> 1200' or so. Well, that's fine if you have good viz underneath...no
> reason to cancel a trip to the tropics, or to not be able to get home.
> But, you will find that under 3000-3500' of altitude the coverage is
> horrible in much of the country. Maybe it's summertime and there are
> thunderstorms and clouds...I never want to fly instruments when there
> are lots of thunderstorms all in my path, so I'll duck under where I
> can stay VFR and make decisions on the conditions and do lots of
> deviations. That doesn't play well always either with the altitude
> restrictions of ADS-B. Even by my own airport and flying to the local
> town that is 80,000+ people and one of the only bigger cities in our
> part of the state, we have to be at 3,000-3500' before we get any
> weather info. In the rainy periods of the year, this makes it again
> impossible to have the data you need to avoid storm cells and make
> decisions that may give you a good route to your destination. When I
> took the plane to idaho with ADS-B only, we had <2000' ceilings just
> east of the rockies in Wyoming....with great clear skies under the
> overcast. No weather info to be had, which means no current wind info
> for your possible fuel stops.
>
> So what I find is, if you are flying something heavier that you are
> always going to fly high, and cruise at maybe 8,000-16,000', sure,
> FIS-B will probably work for you if you don't care about the weather
> picture when you're on the ground.
> But for any serious x/c travel, if you are NOT interested in getting
> into icing, and NOT interested in flying inside clouds with embeded
> thunderstorms anywhere nearby, or you need to fly at 1,000-3,000' for
> avoiding turbulence or weather, you will be lacking all of the data
> you need to do it safely.
>
> I distinctly remember a flight home from OSH in the Sundowner years
> ago, started at 7,000 IFR, but with big black clouds to the North,
> ended cancelling and going lower to get home VFR. I had no weather
> data, and no fuel totalizer, and had an extended taxi at OSH. I felt
> completely at a loss for information and had to divert and stop and
> sit on the ground until I could get good weather data. As it turned
> out, if I'd have had a fuel totalizer, and any kind of in-cockpit
> weather, I would have known my fuel situation was "plenty" and a 10
> minute diversion could have put me on the back side in completely
> clear skies, where I'd have been able to get home. In fact, by phone,
> people at home told me there wasn't a cloud in the sky...I just needed
> to take the right route.
>
> FIS-B is a big letdown of coverage. If the feds DOUBLED the number of
> uplinks, I'd say it may finally just be good enough. The way it is
> now, I think they should have skipped FIS-B altogether and just given
> a free base package of satellite weather to every pilot, with Nexrad,
> metars, and TAF's and TFR's. Then let them buy additional.
>
> At least in my past 1500 hours in the RV's now, I can say that
> satellite wx was one of the biggest things that enabled successful
> trips, and is probably the last piece of technology I'd want to remove
> from the plane, even as far as the EFIS goes. I'll fly a six-pack if
> I have to, but you have to pry the weather data from my hands.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 3/7/2018 10:02 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Re ADSB coverage: Tim, is that primarily a 'midwest' issue in your
>> experience? I was previously a XM subscriber and definitely
>> preferred their wx products but I'm getting ADSB coverage everywhere
>> I'm looking for it on the east coast and the price remains right.
>> Just wondering....
>>
>> I painted my Vans pedals (the pads with the holes) in silver and
>> they really look spiffy - like stainless. Didn't see that coming.
>> Those aftermarkets look pretty spiffy as well.
>>
>> Bill "wondering if 1,000 hours marks the beginning of some kind of
>> a 'things fail and wear-out' mode" Watson
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
Very true. I find to be reliable in my area thats 1000-1500 max, but I think when
the day come that we can all get in cockpit internet access cheaply, that
will finally negate the need for all of this other satellite and FIS-B stuff.
It cant come soon enough.
Tim
> On Mar 7, 2018, at 3:45 PM, Chris wrote:
>
>
> ...and if you are low enough 4G LTE works too.
> -Chris
> N919AR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 3:55 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals
>
>
> Yes, that sounds different that what I normally encounter in the east and
> southeast.
>
> I can get ADSB weather practically down to the ground, or at least as close
> to the ground as I normally find myself looking for wx info. A couple of
> years ago I had an odd situation where I could take off from my home field
> (8NC8) and fly to KTTA, passing by KRDU, and would not get any ADSB data
> until very short final at KTTA. However, taking off from KTTA and flying
> home, I would have ADSB data all the way back. Sometimes rec'ng ADSB data on
> the ground at 8NC8. Power down and then back up - no ADSB. Navworx worked
> with me (!!!) to try and fix it. We concluded it was an ADSB 'network'
> problem and sure enough, full service appeared magically a few months
> later. (Yes, I'm still runnning Navworx with the AMOC successfully)
>
> Otherwise, flying underneath a low ceiling to avoid ice is not common
> solution in the SE, at least for me. But I do plenty of flying under the
> icy overcast out of KAGC (Pittsburgh) and I consistently get ADSB at 1500'
> AGL when needed. Same with T-storms. Normally flying above cloud base,
> which often between 4 and 6k, is enough to allow convective storm avoidance
> via the requested deviation. Only rarely do I run into situations where
> getting underneath is preferable. Surface 'bumpiness', i.e. hills and
> antenna make me think twice about it anyway.
>
> As a wise and experienced aviator said recently, "At least in my past
> 1500 hours in the RV's now, I can say that satellite wx was one of the
> biggest things that enabled successful trips, and is probably the last piece
> of technology I'd want to remove from the plane, even as far as the EFIS
> goes. I'll fly a six-pack if I have to, but you have to pry the weather
> data from my hands." Indeed.
>
> It has been that way for me since I first laid eyes on Nexrad imagery in the
> cockpit using CheapBastard software on the communicating Palm Pilot (anyone
> else here ever use it?). Then the 396 came out with XM and my little Maule
> with its 6-pack felt like a EA6 Prowler bristling with antennas. In fact
> for that first year or so with the 396 it was great fun to mix it up with
> jet traffic that would be holding outside say KJAX because of a line of
> thunder-bumpers while I snaked my way in behind it. They had radar, but I
> could see around corners.
>
> Five minutes later it seemed like everyone had a 396 in the bag - radar
> capable or not.
>
>> On 3/7/2018 11:26 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> I would say if you live on the East coast, you'll probably have it
>> better than most people in the country.
>> Certainly the coverage is better and the terrain is flatter. Where it
>> really falls apart is in the center of the country and heading west,
>> and in the mountains in areas too.
>> It depends on what you're flight altitude is, and the season, especially.
>> Like for instance, one spring trip around here, we had cold temps with
>> icing conditions all over, but VFR underneath. The ceilings being
>> 1200' or so. Well, that's fine if you have good viz underneath...no
>> reason to cancel a trip to the tropics, or to not be able to get home.
>> But, you will find that under 3000-3500' of altitude the coverage is
>> horrible in much of the country. Maybe it's summertime and there are
>> thunderstorms and clouds...I never want to fly instruments when there
>> are lots of thunderstorms all in my path, so I'll duck under where I
>> can stay VFR and make decisions on the conditions and do lots of
>> deviations. That doesn't play well always either with the altitude
>> restrictions of ADS-B. Even by my own airport and flying to the local
>> town that is 80,000+ people and one of the only bigger cities in our
>> part of the state, we have to be at 3,000-3500' before we get any
>> weather info. In the rainy periods of the year, this makes it again
>> impossible to have the data you need to avoid storm cells and make
>> decisions that may give you a good route to your destination. When I
>> took the plane to idaho with ADS-B only, we had <2000' ceilings just
>> east of the rockies in Wyoming....with great clear skies under the
>> overcast. No weather info to be had, which means no current wind info
>> for your possible fuel stops.
>>
>> So what I find is, if you are flying something heavier that you are
>> always going to fly high, and cruise at maybe 8,000-16,000', sure,
>> FIS-B will probably work for you if you don't care about the weather
>> picture when you're on the ground.
>> But for any serious x/c travel, if you are NOT interested in getting
>> into icing, and NOT interested in flying inside clouds with embeded
>> thunderstorms anywhere nearby, or you need to fly at 1,000-3,000' for
>> avoiding turbulence or weather, you will be lacking all of the data
>> you need to do it safely.
>>
>> I distinctly remember a flight home from OSH in the Sundowner years
>> ago, started at 7,000 IFR, but with big black clouds to the North,
>> ended cancelling and going lower to get home VFR. I had no weather
>> data, and no fuel totalizer, and had an extended taxi at OSH. I felt
>> completely at a loss for information and had to divert and stop and
>> sit on the ground until I could get good weather data. As it turned
>> out, if I'd have had a fuel totalizer, and any kind of in-cockpit
>> weather, I would have known my fuel situation was "plenty" and a 10
>> minute diversion could have put me on the back side in completely
>> clear skies, where I'd have been able to get home. In fact, by phone,
>> people at home told me there wasn't a cloud in the sky...I just needed
>> to take the right route.
>>
>> FIS-B is a big letdown of coverage. If the feds DOUBLED the number of
>> uplinks, I'd say it may finally just be good enough. The way it is
>> now, I think they should have skipped FIS-B altogether and just given
>> a free base package of satellite weather to every pilot, with Nexrad,
>> metars, and TAF's and TFR's. Then let them buy additional.
>>
>> At least in my past 1500 hours in the RV's now, I can say that
>> satellite wx was one of the biggest things that enabled successful
>> trips, and is probably the last piece of technology I'd want to remove
>> from the plane, even as far as the EFIS goes. I'll fly a six-pack if
>> I have to, but you have to pry the weather data from my hands.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>> On 3/7/2018 10:02 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>>
>>> Re ADSB coverage: Tim, is that primarily a 'midwest' issue in your
>>> experience? I was previously a XM subscriber and definitely
>>> preferred their wx products but I'm getting ADSB coverage everywhere
>>> I'm looking for it on the east coast and the price remains right.
>>> Just wondering....
>>>
>>> I painted my Vans pedals (the pads with the holes) in silver and
>>> they really look spiffy - like stainless. Didn't see that coming.
>>> Those aftermarkets look pretty spiffy as well.
>>>
>>> Bill "wondering if 1,000 hours marks the beginning of some kind of
>>> a 'things fail and wear-out' mode" Watson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Sorry for the thread drift...
Am I the only one who has gotten the dreaded Refresh signal needed from XM? The
radio boots up on channel 1 with the message, and is otherwise useless until
you get XM to send the signal. We have XM in the airplane, cars, home. Different
model receivers. It has happened to all of them at one time or another. Happened
so often that I have the specific XM web site page bookmarked in the iPad.
And then, it happened to the XM wx receiver when I really wanted it - crossing
AZ VFR but with scattered lines of thunderstorms. I probably over reacted,
but I was so angry that when I got home I bought an ADSB-in box and cancelled
XM wx. So far, Im happy. Locally I seldom fly any distance under 3,000 (the terain
doesnt allow it) and ADSB-in coverage seems good. If I frequently flew in
the flatlands I might have a different opinion.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478510#478510
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Pedals |
| From: | "Rocketman1988" <Rocketman(at)etczone.com> |
I originally wanted Paul's setup; it looks really nice. Problem was, he stopped
making them. I kept in touch for as long a I could wait but finally ended up
with the stock system...not flying yet but they should work fine...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478554#478554
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Cowl heat protection |
Hi list,
What are you doing to protect the cowling from the exhaust heat? Is it
working well? Pictures would be very welcome.
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I just bought the sheets of aluminum foil self stick from Van's and
covered the bottom inside of the cowl with it.
It works well. I ended up with a cracked exhaust last week and it
protected the cowl even from that to some degree and I have no damage.
I know I have pictures on my RV10 page of when I did that plane,
but it's really nothing much. Just paint a layer of resin on
the inside of the cowl bottom to seal it, then peel the backing off
the aluminum foil and stick it on. Van's will have you put some on
where the exhaust is close, but it's best to just cover the entire
cowl bottom to within a couple inches of each edge.
Tim
On 03/19/2018 02:02 PM, David Carr wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> What are you doing to protect the cowling from the exhaust heat? Is it
> working well? Pictures would be very welcome.
>
> Thanks,
> David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
I glued this to most of the bottom cowling with RTV:
THERMO-TEC ALUMINIZED HEAT BARRIER 18"X20"
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/alumheatbarrierstops.php?clickkey=75929
Also used these clamp-on exhaust shields in a couple of places where the exhaust
pipes get closer to the cowling:
DOUBLE EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/exaustheatedshield.php?clickkey=7730
Lenny
> On Mar 19, 2018, at 3:02 PM, David Carr wrote:
>
> Hi list,
>
> What are you doing to protect the cowling from the exhaust heat? Is it working
well? Pictures would be very welcome.
>
> Thanks,
> David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
Anyone else getting double emails from all the matronics lists or is it
just me?
-Sean #40303
NO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Not me.......
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2018 7:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Double Emails?
Anyone else getting double emails from all the matronics lists or is it just
me?
-Sean #40303
NO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Double Emails? |
Not me.
Not me.
(Sorry, couldn't resist.)
Tim
> On Mar 19, 2018, at 8:53 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>
> Anyone else getting double emails from all the matronics lists or is it just
me?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> NO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Double Emails? |
LOL. Got that 8 times. :)
> Tim Olson
> Monday, March 19, 2018 9:11 PM
>
> Not me.
> Not me.
> (Sorry, couldn't resist.)
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Here's what I did after allowing heat to damage my cowling. The bad
news is that I had to repair the cowling's inside surface and structure
(scarfing, cloth, honeycomb). The good news is that I had a real good
indication of where the heat problem was. I have flown 2 years since
then with no additional damage or concern. I used red RTV to adhere
the pieces of foil faced insulation - probably the same stuff Tim used
but not sure.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dlm <dlm34077(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 03/20/18 |
Use red RTV on the edges of the aluminum foil; I had to grind /sand out all
of the RTV on the original heat protection from 10 years ago. Put the
sticky back aluminum in place and use 3M blue tape to create a seam of RTV
along its edges. Then pull the tape and find a nice bead of RTV holding
your heat protection in place. I will be removing the cowl of the aircraft
Friday so may be able to get a picture. If so , I will send
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 11:42 PM, RV10-List Digest Server <
rv10-list(at)matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style
> 82701&View=html&Chapter 18-03-20&Archive=RV10
>
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>
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>
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> ===============================================
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> ===============================================
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> ----------------------------------------------------------
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> ---
> Total Messages Posted Tue 03/20/18: 1
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 03:30 PM - Re: Cowl heat protection (Bill Watson)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowl heat protection
> From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>
> Here's what I did after allowing heat to damage my cowling. The bad
> news is that I had to repair the cowling's inside surface and structure
> (scarfing, cloth, honeycomb). The good news is that I had a real good
> indication of where the heat problem was. I have flown 2 years since
> then with no additional damage or concern. I used red RTV to adhere
> the pieces of foil faced insulation - probably the same stuff Tim used
> but not sure.
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <peyton.b(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Stick on reflective heat shield from acs
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478769#478769
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2646_182.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Not surprised. I used visible heat damage (from structural composite
damage to singed paint) to guide my coverage. There may be more going
on than simply proximity of exhaust system parts to cowling.
I guess the 'safer' but slightly heavier approach would be to cover it
all as Tim suggested.
On 3/20/2018 9:49 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
> I took a pencil and marked the areas that were fairly close to any
> exhaust pipe (with the bottom cowl on). It looks like your area
> covered is smaller than mine.... just sayin'.
>
> wrote:
>
>
> Here's what I did after allowing heat to damage my cowling. The bad
> news is that I had to repair the cowling's inside surface and structure
> (scarfing, cloth, honeycomb). The good news is that I had a real good
> indication of where the heat problem was. I have flown 2 years since
> then with no additional damage or concern. I used red RTV to adhere
> the pieces of foil faced insulation - probably the same stuff Tim used
> but not sure.
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
I want to say thanks for all of the heat protection advice. This is a
great group we have here.
David
On Fri, Mar 23, 2018 at 5:47 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Not surprised. I used visible heat damage (from structural composite
> damage to singed paint) to guide my coverage. There may be more going on
> than simply proximity of exhaust system parts to cowling.
>
> I guess the 'safer' but slightly heavier approach would be to cover it
> all as Tim suggested.
>
> On 3/20/2018 9:49 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
>
> I took a pencil and marked the areas that were fairly close to any exhaust
> pipe (with the bottom cowl on). It looks like your area covered is smaller
> than mine.... just sayin'.
>
> wrote:
>
>
> Here's what I did after allowing heat to damage my cowling. The bad
> news is that I had to repair the cowling's inside surface and structure
> (scarfing, cloth, honeycomb). The good news is that I had a real good
> indication of where the heat problem was. I have flown 2 years since
> then with no additional damage or concern. I used red RTV to adhere
> the pieces of foil faced insulation - probably the same stuff Tim used
> but not sure.
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
> ------------------------------
> [image: Avast logo]
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
>
> <#m_1620520410082091488_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Has any used or considered using an exhaust wrap such as this for additional heat protection; https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-exhaust-wrap
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478839#478839
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
I've thought about it, but so far I've only used it on my car. Works great
at keeping the heat in the pipe and out of the engine compartment. In my
car, it smelled bad for a couple of months but later it had no smell - I
don't know if you would smell it in an airplane. I've heard it makes an
airplane exhaust deteriorate due to the higher heat because it is kept in
the pipe. Also, may be danger of fire if oil leak is absorbed by wrap.
Kevin Belue
RV-6A
RV-10
On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 5:52 AM, whodja wrote:
>
> Has any used or considered using an exhaust wrap such as this for
> additional heat protection; https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-
> exhaust-wrap
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478839#478839
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
Also with those on you cant inspect the exhaust pipes for cracks
Lenny
> On Mar 24, 2018, at 1:17 PM, Kevin Belue wrote:
>
> I've thought about it, but so far I've only used it on my car. Works great at
keeping the heat in the pipe and out of the engine compartment. In my car, it
smelled bad for a couple of months but later it had no smell - I don't know if
you would smell it in an airplane. I've heard it makes an airplane exhaust deteriorate
due to the higher heat because it is kept in the pipe. Also, may be
danger of fire if oil leak is absorbed by wrap.
>
> Kevin Belue
> RV-6A
> RV-10
>
> On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 5:52 AM, whodja wrote:
>
> Has any used or considered using an exhaust wrap such as this for additional heat protection; https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-exhaust-wrap
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478839#478839
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl heat protection |
None of the exhaust manufacturers for Aircraft recommend wrapping the exhaust.
Vettermans Warned me even about having areas with a tight heat shield around them.
You want air to the outside of the pipe. What you will end up with is an
exhaust system that does not last as long or fails. The only thing that I have
heard that is sometimes done on aircraft exhaust is to ceramic coat them internally.
Tim
> On Mar 24, 2018, at 5:52 AM, whodja wrote:
>
>
> Has any used or considered using an exhaust wrap such as this for additional heat protection; https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/lava-exhaust-wrap
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478839#478839
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Halmos <dhmoose(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Auto Response: RV10-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/25/18 |
Thank you for your email! Unfortunately, I will checking email VERY sporadically
but I will get back to you when I am able. Thanks, David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Will be leaving early for sun n fun wondering about finding an airport near and
within walking distance of a golf course on my way down. Route will be say Indianapolis
to Atlanta to Lakeland. Any experiences out there?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478947#478947
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Man, I love my airplane! |
9 years 8 months and 23 days to the time I received my certificate. About another
month after that before I flew it. For those of you still building and
struggling to find time or to balance schedules, hang in there. THESE ARE AWESOME
AIRPLANES...
In the last 3 weeks Ive flown mine from home (in Waco, Tx) to Cape Girardeau, Mo
and back. To Big Bend near the Mexico border in far west Texas and back.
To Billings, MT and back. To Norman, OK and back. And every time I settle
into a cruise phase of the flight, Im just amazed at how awesome the RV-10 is.
Tons of room to spread out. Amazing useful loads. Predicable performance. Extremely
wide operating envelope. Couple all that with amazing avionics and its
easy to find yourself falling in love with the airplane flight after flight
after flight.
These are amazing airplanes. Mine is ugly as sin and Ive even been considering
a fake wood panel for OSH in an attempt to create the airborne version of the
Griswolds station wagon while Im unpainted. But the airplane is amazing...
If youre still building and youre struggling to find time or make progress, dont
stop. Once you get the bugs worked out and start using your plane, youre
going to fall in love with it flight after flight.
The reward is so satisfying that any words I write cant do it justice. Just get
it done and get ready to fall in love with an amazing machine.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Man, I love my airplane! |
We were flying some YE yesterday. One comment I get more than any other from those
who fly in an RV for the first time-"You can see everything from this airplane."
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
95 yesterday, summer must be here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Mathia" <ron(at)touchtronics.com> |
Hi Dave,
The only airport that I know of, in Indiana, with a golf course right next
to it is Plymouth, Indiana C65. It is about 100 miles north of Indy, just
south of SBN.
Gas is fairly cheap and several restaurants are a short walk from the
airport.
Regards,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2018 3:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fly in golfing
Will be leaving early for sun n fun wondering about finding an airport near
and within walking distance of a golf course on my way down. Route will be
say Indianapolis to Atlanta to Lakeland. Any experiences out there?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=478947#478947
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Man, I love my airplane! |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Coming up on four years and 440 hours.
Other than the prop governor fiasco which wasnt the airplanes fault, it has been
a remarkably reliable workhorse and the best overall GA aircraft I have ever
flown.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479014#479014
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Thought I would share my Panel Upgrade experience |
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
So after flying my RV-10 N829GW for 8 years 2 months, and 1 minor panel upgrade
I decided to do a major Panel update.
I removed the very first Aerosport RV-10 Standard panel and installed one of our
new RV310 panels with the new quad Center Console. I went from two 8.5" AFS
touch screens, to two 10" touch and one 12" touch AFS screens. I also changed
over to the ADVANCED QUICK PANEL system. The new Panel has a Remote Transponder,
audio panel and WXworx XM receiver. The glove box is a new product from Aerosport
for the RV310. Theses are Nylon PA12 and 3D printed.
When I decided to do the retrofit I knew it was going to be a huge task to remove
some systems in the airplane and dissect all the different wiring bundles.
This was needed so I could determine which wires and items to keep and which to
remove. Once I started disassembling, I thought, what have I done. My prior
panel was working perfect and very efficient. Another factor that pushed me to
do this upgrade was that I got caught up in the Navworx mess and had to replace
the ADSB unit with a new legal system. I had many options but felt this was
the best route to take.
After I started dissecting, I was amazed at how many wires and systems items I
was able to remove because the Advanced ACM quick panel has it all incorporated.
One other thing that made life easier was during my original build I had marked
all wires very good and I had a good schematic to follow. Just a suggestion
for all you current builders. As I started putting the new electrical system
in I became more amazed at how this simplifies everything. This system is an
awesome PLUG AND PLAY.
During this upgrade I decided to remove my push/pull heater cables and the Oil
cooler valve and install TCW TECH linear servo kits. I also upgraded all my interior
cockpit brake lines from the stock plastic ones which were getting a little
brittle but still working.
With this upgrade I had to replace my Magnetometer and ADAHRS with DYNON units
and 2 new 2 wire OAT sensors. All these items required new wire bundles run from
panel back behind the baggage area bulkhead. I also removed my 3 original 2.25
backups and installed a Garmin G5 with battery backup and Receiving data from
the GTN650. Another item removed was a Garmin 696. This was a great backup
GPS unit that also handled my XM weather and music. I will miss this one. Maybe
I will put it in my J3 Cub.
I started this project on 12-28-17 and finally finished 3-30-18. It was fun but
a lot more work then I imagined. I had around 150HRS in this upgrade but it
was well worth the effort.
Thanks to Rob Hickman, Jeffrey Hickman and everyone at AFS for putting up with
all my questions. Great customer service. I would highly recommend the Advanced
Quick panel systems. Also Bob Newman from TCW TECH. The documentation was all
very good and very easy to understand. One great thing is everything worked
great once I got all systems settings correct. The only issue I had was to swap
the white signal wire on the elevator and rudder trim. That was it. I have
about 4hrs now flying behind this panel and I got to say its Awesome. I am still
getting use to some items but feeling very comfortable so far.
These planes are great
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying 500 hrs
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479016#479016
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_6718_a_1_183.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4306_aa_101.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4462_164.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_6708_a_679.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_6709_496.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_6710_184.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_6711_172.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AirNav.com Now Linked to Airport Courtesy Cars |
| From: | "gbrasch" <airportcars101(at)gmail.com> |
Airport Courtesy Cars website has been updated to link to AirNav.com. Click on
any of the over 1,850 airport IDs within the site and you will be taken to the
AirNav.com page for that airport. Please note Airport Courtesy Cars is now
fully web based and works on any device. We have also added many locations with
MOGAS. Have a great flying season and please consider a small donation to
keep this site running and get your name added to the donor page. Thanks, Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Owner, "Airport Courtesy Cars" Website www.airportcourtesycars.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479077#479077
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from AMAZON for about
2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a quality risk buying
from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper on EBAY (from China).
Inquiring minds need to know.....
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Yoder <phil(at)philyoder.com> |
I=99ve purchased RG-400 on eBay a number of times - but always from d
omestic
vendors. Never had a problem or could I tell a difference from what B&C
sells.
Phil
On Sat, Apr 7, 2018 at 5:54 PM kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from AMAZON fo
r
> about 2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
>
> My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a quality risk
> buying from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper on EBAY (from China
).
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.....
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
> --
Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/
www.itsnotthatcomplex.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
Over the length of the cable runs likely on our Aircraft it will make no no
ticeable difference between RG400 or even RG58. The only benefit really will
be the Teflon Jacket and the double shield on RG400. If I was buying a reel
of cable I would buy a reputable brand like Belden or Times Microwave.
Cheers John Mac
> On 8 Apr 2018, at 09:16, Phil Yoder wrote:
>
> I=99ve purchased RG-400 on eBay a number of times - but always from d
omestic vendors. Never had a problem or could I tell a difference from what B
&C sells.
> Phil
>
>
>
>> On Sat, Apr 7, 2018 at 5:54 PM kearney wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from AMAZON fo
r about 2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
>>
>> My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a quality risk b
uying from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper on EBAY (from China).
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know.....
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
> --
> Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthat
complex.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bedford Landings <jack(at)bedfordlandings.com> |
I've bought a bunch of RG-400' on Amazon. As far as I can tell its identical to
that from As&S
Sent from Jack's iPad
> On Apr 7, 2018, at 6:48 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from AMAZON for about
2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
>
> My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a quality risk buying
from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper on EBAY (from China).
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.....
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Inquiring minds would want to know why you need that much RG-400.
Only you GPS antenna and your transponder and ADS-B out if you need to
do that in Canada, would need it.
No com or nav unit operates on a high enough frequency for it to be of
significant benefit. Yes, the double shielding is nice, theoretically,
but planes operated for over 50 years on RG-58 with more than adequate
performance for VHF. RG-58 is about 1/6th the price of RG-400.
On 4/7/2018 6:18 PM, John MacCallum wrote:
> Over the length of the cable runs likely on our Aircraft it will make
> no noticeable difference between RG400 or even RG58. The only benefit
> really will be the Teflon Jacket and the double shield on RG400. If I
> was buying a reel of cable I would buy a reputable brand like Belden or
> Times Microwave.
>
> Cheers John Mac
>
> On 8 Apr 2018, at 09:16, Phil Yoder > wrote:
>
>> Ive purchased RG-400 on eBay a number of times - but always from
>> domestic vendors. Never had a problem or could I tell a difference
>> from what B&C sells.
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 7, 2018 at 5:54 PM kearney > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from
>> AMAZON for about 2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
>>
>> My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a
>> quality risk buying from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper
>> on EBAY (from China).
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know.....
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com
>> \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthatcomplex.com
>> <http://www.itsnotthatcomplex.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I use RG400 for any new coax runs in any airplane I work on, and I know many others
do too. Its much easier to get a good crimp and good solid connectors on
RG400 than RG58. I buy RG400 1000 at a time. It is substantially cheaper in those
quantities. I always buy from Wiremaster.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 7, 2018, at 9:46 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> Inquiring minds would want to know why you need that much RG-400.
> Only you GPS antenna and your transponder and ADS-B out if you need to do that
in Canada, would need it.
> No com or nav unit operates on a high enough frequency for it to be of significant
benefit. Yes, the double shielding is nice, theoretically, but planes operated
for over 50 years on RG-58 with more than adequate performance for VHF.
RG-58 is about 1/6th the price of RG-400.
>
>> On 4/7/2018 6:18 PM, John MacCallum wrote:
>> Over the length of the cable runs likely on our Aircraft it will make no noticeable
difference between RG400 or even RG58. The only benefit really will be
the Teflon Jacket and the double shield on RG400. If I was buying a reel of
cable I would buy a reputable brand like Belden or Times Microwave.
>> Cheers John Mac
>>> On 8 Apr 2018, at 09:16, Phil Yoder > wrote:
>>> Ive purchased RG-400 on eBay a number of times - but always from domestic vendors.
Never had a problem or could I tell a difference from what B&C sells.
>>> Phil
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 7, 2018 at 5:54 PM kearney > wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from
>>> AMAZON for about 2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
>>>
>>> My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a
>>> quality risk buying from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper
>>> on EBAY (from China).
>>>
>>> Inquiring minds need to know.....
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Les
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Phil Yoder phil@philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthatcomplex.com <http://www.itsnotthatcomplex.com>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Kelley
It was my understanding that RG400 was preferred for a/c. Based on your comment
I will check into this with Stein before I order anything.
I have two comm runs to the tail along with a VOR/ILS antenna. That with the 2
GPS antennas and XM weather and it adds up quickly.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479159#479159
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)MSN.COM> |
I'm installing a Garmin GDL82 into a Cessna 150M. Tied in with the existing transponder
will give it a relative cheap way to obtain ADS-B 2020 out. The install
directions call for the use of RG400 because of the extra shielding affect.
Most electronic installs call for RG400 these days. I buy most all my coax from
Spruce as the cable pretty much comes from the same places no matter where
you buy lt.
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 7, 2018, at 9:14 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
> I use RG400 for any new coax runs in any airplane I work on, and I know many
others do too. Its much easier to get a good crimp and good solid connectors on
RG400 than RG58. I buy RG400 1000 at a time. It is substantially cheaper in
those quantities. I always buy from Wiremaster.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 7, 2018, at 9:46 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Inquiring minds would want to know why you need that much RG-400.
>> Only you GPS antenna and your transponder and ADS-B out if you need to do that
in Canada, would need it.
>> No com or nav unit operates on a high enough frequency for it to be of significant
benefit. Yes, the double shielding is nice, theoretically, but planes operated
for over 50 years on RG-58 with more than adequate performance for VHF.
RG-58 is about 1/6th the price of RG-400.
>>
>>> On 4/7/2018 6:18 PM, John MacCallum wrote:
>>> Over the length of the cable runs likely on our Aircraft it will make no noticeable
difference between RG400 or even RG58. The only benefit really will
be the Teflon Jacket and the double shield on RG400. If I was buying a reel of
cable I would buy a reputable brand like Belden or Times Microwave.
>>> Cheers John Mac
>>>> On 8 Apr 2018, at 09:16, Phil Yoder > wrote:
>>>> Ive purchased RG-400 on eBay a number of times - but always from domestic
vendors. Never had a problem or could I tell a difference from what B&C sells.
>>>> Phil
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Apr 7, 2018 at 5:54 PM kearney > wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> Hi
>>>>
>>>> I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from
>>>> AMAZON for about 2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
>>>>
>>>> My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a
>>>> quality risk buying from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper
>>>> on EBAY (from China).
>>>>
>>>> Inquiring minds need to know.....
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>>
>>>> Les
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> FORUMS -
>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> WIKI -
>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> b Site -
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Phil Yoder phil@philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthatcomplex.com <http://www.itsnotthatcomplex.com>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Of course the folks that sell the cable will recommend RG-400. It is the
default, whether needed or not. Kind of like whether you choose Goodyear
Flight Custom III tires or something at 1/2 the cost. Just like Lycoming
will tell you that you can cruise your engine at 425 degrees all day long.
All transponders, and ADS-B and GPS operate at or above 1000 Mhz, which
requires better cabling and lower loss. All com and VHF nav operate at
1/10th those frequencies. Yes, RG-400 may theoretically last longer, but
it is rare to see problems with RG-58 for VHF at 50 years or more,
unless the plane lives outside in a hot climate its whole life. Just my
experience with more than one aircraft I have owned that was
manufactured and avionics installed more than 50 years ago. Even
transponders installed in the 70s used RG-58, though they learned later
it was sub-optimal..my last aircraft before the RV was 53 years old and
got a transponder in the early 70's, it still had the same RG-58
transponder antenna cable when I sold it, and had no ATC issues, nor
passing 2 year checks. I have RG-58 for my VHF use in my RV-10, and have
no trouble talking to anyone at any altitude that you would expect to
have line of sight.
You can spend over $300 for cable if you want, or you can spend under
$100 and get 98% of the performance of the expensive stuff. It is
experimental and your choice, and nobody has to justify to anyone
else...you just want it.
Just like you can install a Garmin 500 or 600 panel if that is what you
want, or you can do a G3X, or Dynon, AFS, Grand Rapids or MGL...you get
to pick.
4/7/2018 7:24 PM, Danny Riggs wrote:
>
> I'm installing a Garmin GDL82 into a Cessna 150M. Tied in with the existing transponder
will give it a relative cheap way to obtain ADS-B 2020 out. The install
directions call for the use of RG400 because of the extra shielding affect.
Most electronic installs call for RG400 these days. I buy most all my coax
from Spruce as the cable pretty much comes from the same places no matter where
you buy lt.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 7, 2018, at 9:14 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>
>> I use RG400 for any new coax runs in any airplane I work on, and I know many
others do too. Its much easier to get a good crimp and good solid connectors
on RG400 than RG58. I buy RG400 1000 at a time. It is substantially cheaper in
those quantities. I always buy from Wiremaster.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> 352-427-0285
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Apr 7, 2018, at 9:46 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Inquiring minds would want to know why you need that much RG-400.
>>> Only you GPS antenna and your transponder and ADS-B out if you need to do that
in Canada, would need it.
>>> No com or nav unit operates on a high enough frequency for it to be of significant
benefit. Yes, the double shielding is nice, theoretically, but planes
operated for over 50 years on RG-58 with more than adequate performance for VHF.
RG-58 is about 1/6th the price of RG-400.
>>>
>>>> On 4/7/2018 6:18 PM, John MacCallum wrote:
>>>> Over the length of the cable runs likely on our Aircraft it will make no
noticeable difference between RG400 or even RG58. The only benefit really will
be the Teflon Jacket and the double shield on RG400. If I was buying a reel of
cable I would buy a reputable brand like Belden or Times Microwave.
>>>> Cheers John Mac
>>>>> On 8 Apr 2018, at 09:16, Phil Yoder > wrote:
>>>>> Ive purchased RG-400 on eBay a number of times - but always from domestic
vendors. Never had a problem or could I tell a difference from what B&C sells.
>>>>> Phil
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Apr 7, 2018 at 5:54 PM kearney > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi
>>>>>
>>>>> I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from
>>>>> AMAZON for about 2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
>>>>>
>>>>> My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a
>>>>> quality risk buying from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper
>>>>> on EBAY (from China).
>>>>>
>>>>> Inquiring minds need to know.....
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers
>>>>>
>>>>> Les
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>>>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> FORUMS -
>>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> WIKI -
>>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> b Site -
>>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>> ==========
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Phil Yoder phil@philyoder.com \__________o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthatcomplex.com <http://www.itsnotthatcomplex.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Interesting. Never had an issue installing crimp BNC on RG-58, nor did I
find crimps on RG-400 any easier, and the RG-58 is easier to trim the
insulation for the crimp. More like do you need iPhone 6,7 or X?
On 4/7/2018 6:59 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I use RG400 for any new coax runs in any airplane I work on, and I know many
others do too. Its much easier to get a good crimp and good solid connectors on
RG400 than RG58. I buy RG400 1000 at a time. It is substantially cheaper in
those quantities. I always buy from Wiremaster.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)MSN.COM> |
Hi Kelly=85=85=85=85=85..a turn if life events has changed my direction on
completing my RV10 project. The first thing that comes to focus is my new
IO540. I have a new (out of the box parts new) IO 540 Thunderbolt Lycoming
engine assembled by Aircraft Engine Specialists in Chandler, Arizona with
appropriate design to be a D4A5 for a RV10. Also included an upgraded elec
tronic mag on one side that will increase HP and we can provide that detail
. Please spread the word, I will be listing soon on Barnstormers and Vans
Air Force.
Sent from Mail for Window
s 10
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Saturday, April 7, 2018 7:49:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RG-400 Coax
Of course the folks that sell the cable will recommend RG-400. It is the
default, whether needed or not. Kind of like whether you choose Goodyear
Flight Custom III tires or something at 1/2 the cost. Just like Lycoming
will tell you that you can cruise your engine at 425 degrees all day long.
All transponders, and ADS-B and GPS operate at or above 1000 Mhz, which
requires better cabling and lower loss. All com and VHF nav operate at
1/10th those frequencies. Yes, RG-400 may theoretically last longer, but
it is rare to see problems with RG-58 for VHF at 50 years or more,
unless the plane lives outside in a hot climate its whole life. Just my
experience with more than one aircraft I have owned that was
manufactured and avionics installed more than 50 years ago. Even
transponders installed in the 70s used RG-58, though they learned later
it was sub-optimal..my last aircraft before the RV was 53 years old and
got a transponder in the early 70's, it still had the same RG-58
transponder antenna cable when I sold it, and had no ATC issues, nor
passing 2 year checks. I have RG-58 for my VHF use in my RV-10, and have
no trouble talking to anyone at any altitude that you would expect to
have line of sight.
You can spend over $300 for cable if you want, or you can spend under
$100 and get 98% of the performance of the expensive stuff. It is
experimental and your choice, and nobody has to justify to anyone
else...you just want it.
Just like you can install a Garmin 500 or 600 panel if that is what you
want, or you can do a G3X, or Dynon, AFS, Grand Rapids or MGL...you get
to pick.
4/7/2018 7:24 PM, Danny Riggs wrote:
>
> I'm installing a Garmin GDL82 into a Cessna 150M. Tied in with the existi
ng transponder will give it a relative cheap way to obtain ADS-B 2020 out.
The install directions call for the use of RG400 because of the extra shiel
ding affect. Most electronic installs call for RG400 these days. I buy most
all my coax from Spruce as the cable pretty much comes from the same place
s no matter where you buy lt.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 7, 2018, at 9:14 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>
>> I use RG400 for any new coax runs in any airplane I work on, and I know
many others do too. It=92s much easier to get a good crimp and good solid c
onnectors on RG400 than RG58. I buy RG400 1000=92 at a time. It is substant
ially cheaper in those quantities. I always buy from Wiremaster.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> 352-427-0285
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Apr 7, 2018, at 9:46 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Inquiring minds would want to know why you need that much RG-400.
>>> Only you GPS antenna and your transponder and ADS-B out if you need to
do that in Canada, would need it.
>>> No com or nav unit operates on a high enough frequency for it to be of
significant benefit. Yes, the double shielding is nice, theoretically, but
planes operated for over 50 years on RG-58 with more than adequate performa
nce for VHF. RG-58 is about 1/6th the price of RG-400.
>>>
>>>> On 4/7/2018 6:18 PM, John MacCallum wrote:
>>>> Over the length of the cable runs likely on our Aircraft it will make
no noticeable difference between RG400 or even RG58. The only benefit real
ly will be the Teflon Jacket and the double shield on RG400. If I was buyin
g a reel of cable I would buy a reputable brand like Belden or Times Microw
ave.
>>>> Cheers John Mac
>>>>> On 8 Apr 2018, at 09:16, Phil Yoder > wrote:
>>>>> I=92ve purchased RG-400 on eBay a number of times - but always from d
omestic vendors. Never had a problem or could I tell a difference from what
B&C sells.
>>>>> Phil
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Apr 7, 2018 at 5:54 PM kearney > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi
>>>>>
>>>>> I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from
>>>>> AMAZON for about 2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
>>>>>
>>>>> My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a
>>>>> quality risk buying from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper
>>>>> on EBAY (from China).
>>>>>
>>>>> Inquiring minds need to know.....
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers
>>>>>
>>>>> Les
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>>>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> FORUMS -
>>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> WIKI -
>>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> b Site -
>>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/cont
ribution
>>>>> ==========
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Phil Yoder phil(at)philyoder.com \__________
o-( )-o__________/ www.itsnotthatcomplex.com<http://www.itsnotthatcomplex.c
om> <http://www.itsnotthatcomplex.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
Your install manuals will specify the manufacturer=92s requirements for typ
e and length of cable.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of kearney
Sent: Saturday, April 7, 2018 10:06:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RG-400 Coax
Kelley
It was my understanding that RG400 was preferred for a/c. Based on your com
ment I will check into this with Stein before I order anything.
I have two comm runs to the tail along with a VOR/ILS antenna. That with th
e 2 GPS antennas and XM weather and it adds up quickly.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479159#479159
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
On 4/8/2018 1:24 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> Your install manuals will specify the manufacturers requirements for
> type and length of cable.
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
I looked through the manuals I have on hand. The KX-155/165 manual only
mentions RG-58. That includes its discussion of what is approved for
full TSO approval.
The GNS-400 series mentions 50 ohm shielded cable. I didn't find mention
of RG-400 (alternate RG-142) until I got to the GTN-600 series install
manual. In other words, even Garmin didn't start recommending RG-400
until about 10 years ago.
The Dynon Skyview manual asserts that double shielded cable will deliver
"more" transmit power and receive signal than single shielded, with no
definition or quantification of how much more.
It is funny that the SL-30 manual calls for RG-142, and Garmin shows it
as acceptable alternate. RG-142 has a solid core connector, not
stranded. It is double shielded like RG-400. There was a discussion on
VAF about the differences, and pointing out that it has only been
sometime after the turn of the century that RG-400 started being
recommended.
IF you anticipate a "noisy" RF environment in your cockpit, go for the
best cable you can get. If your aircraft will have typical noise (very
little) you can choose whether you want to save a couple hundred bucks
or not.
Note that nothing has changed in VHF electronic signal transmission
since the days of the coffee grinder and crystal controlled transmitters.
The internal electronics have been better shielded to avoid transmission
of the RF generated during amplification of signals, etc. so that we get
better quality audio. Apollo introduced digital signal processing..maybe
that influences the call for better shielding..who knows.
It is pretty much the same difference as whether you choose to operate
at 75% power for all cruise, or if you choose to go high enough to
operate at 60-65% power and save a lot of fuel while sacrificing about
5-8% speed. Your airplane and money, your choice.
I haven't seen any install manual yet that says RG-400 is mandatory for
com or VHF nav...only for GPS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I forgot to mention that we should discuss whether Les should prime his
antenna cables and with which type of primer. ;-)
On 4/8/2018 7:57 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> On 4/8/2018 1:24 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> > Your install manuals will specify the manufacturers requirements for
> > type and length of cable.
> >
> > Get Outlook for iOS
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> I looked through the manuals I have on hand. The KX-155/165 manual only
> mentions RG-58. That includes its discussion of what is approved for
> full TSO approval.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Kellym wrote:
> I forgot to mention that we should discuss whether Les should prime his
> antenna cables and with which type of primer. ;-)
>
>
Thats actually a good analogy. Nearly any primer will look good tomorrow. How will
it perform in 10 years? Same question about less expensive/more expensive
coax on VHF radios. Only the builder can decide if the cost difference is worth
the risk/benefit.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479180#479180
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
RG58 will work because the cable run is only short. The losses for a few metres
of Coax are not noticeable to us as users. There is an advantage though with
the double shielding and the Teflon outer Jacket of RG400. Less induced noise
and better abrasion resistance. Also it is better to use Multi Stand rather than
solid core cables because of vibration. For the money it costs to use RG400
compared to the over all costs involved with the building process, in my opinion,
RG400 is the way to go!
Cheers John MacCallum
RV10
VH-DUU
Flying
> On 9 Apr 2018, at 00:57, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> On 4/8/2018 1:24 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> > Your install manuals will specify the manufacturers requirements for
> > type and length of cable.
> >
> > Get Outlook for iOS
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> I looked through the manuals I have on hand. The KX-155/165 manual only mentions
RG-58. That includes its discussion of what is approved for full TSO approval.
> The GNS-400 series mentions 50 ohm shielded cable. I didn't find mention of RG-400
(alternate RG-142) until I got to the GTN-600 series install manual. In
other words, even Garmin didn't start recommending RG-400 until about 10 years
ago.
> The Dynon Skyview manual asserts that double shielded cable will deliver "more"
transmit power and receive signal than single shielded, with no definition
or quantification of how much more.
> It is funny that the SL-30 manual calls for RG-142, and Garmin shows it as acceptable
alternate. RG-142 has a solid core connector, not stranded. It is double
shielded like RG-400. There was a discussion on VAF about the differences,
and pointing out that it has only been sometime after the turn of the century
that RG-400 started being recommended.
> IF you anticipate a "noisy" RF environment in your cockpit, go for the best cable
you can get. If your aircraft will have typical noise (very little) you can
choose whether you want to save a couple hundred bucks or not.
> Note that nothing has changed in VHF electronic signal transmission since the
days of the coffee grinder and crystal controlled transmitters.
> The internal electronics have been better shielded to avoid transmission of the
RF generated during amplification of signals, etc. so that we get better quality
audio. Apollo introduced digital signal processing..maybe that influences
the call for better shielding..who knows.
> It is pretty much the same difference as whether you choose to operate at 75%
power for all cruise, or if you choose to go high enough to operate at 60-65%
power and save a lot of fuel while sacrificing about 5-8% speed. Your airplane
and money, your choice.
> I haven't seen any install manual yet that says RG-400 is mandatory for com or
VHF nav...only for GPS.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Kelley
If I use a silicone based primer on my COAX cable will the electrons flow faster?
Inquiring minds really, really need to know.
Les [Idea]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479194#479194
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
I primed the inside of my coax. No problems noted. Fairly tedious task but
worth the effort.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 9, 2018, at 9:43 AM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi Kelley
>
> If I use a silicone based primer on my COAX cable will the electrons flow faster?
>
> Inquiring minds really, really need to know.
>
> Les [Idea]
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479194#479194
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Without getting into the argument on technicalities or superiorities of one
over the other, I'll just provide my 2 cents on the import vs domestic.
I've seen quite a bit of domestic as well as import wire, and like many
things that get imported what you see (or is advertised) is not always what
you get. We've seen some copycat "RG" (various spec's and types) that is a
pretty good knockoff, until you realize the plating on the wire strands is
tin (or even less) vs. true silver plated copper for domestically produced
mil spec. Speaking of copper, some of the conductors I've seen are just some
version of aluminum or pot metal, cleverly disguised. I've seen some that
corrodes badly/quickly, some that was laughable and some that was passable.
I'm always amazed at how much work some of the import companies will go
through to copy something so closely, only to produce garbage (that looks
good).
Now I'm certainly not saying all import or surplus wire is that way - I've
seen some that is pretty good....but when you see it for ridiculously low
prices (below what someone could manufacture it for using the raw materials
that it's made out of) it's often true of the old mantra "if it sounds like
a duck and looks like a duck"...and speaking of surplus, I have seen quite a
bit of water/hurricane damaged wire with internal corrosion. Looks good on
the outside, not so much on the inside where the water has wicked up into
the wire. Again, not all surplus is a bad thing. Some is simply
surplus...but a good deal of it is someone passing of junk - literally.
This is true whether it be 400, 58, tefzel wire, and a lot of other things
(as we all know from experience).
In some (not all) cases, you may have just stepped over a dollar to pick up
a dime.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of kearney
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2018 5:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RG-400 Coax
Hi
I am about to but 100' of RG-400 and see that I can but it from AMAZON for
about 2/3 of what the Spruce cost would be.
My question is if all RG-400 is created equal of if I run a quality risk
buying from AMAZON versus ACS. RG-400 is even cheaper on EBAY (from China).
Inquiring minds need to know.....
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479149#479149
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mouttain High )2 System Distribution Head Location |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I need to find reasonable locations for the distribution heads for my Mountain
High O2 system.
I am thinking of installing them in my Aerosport overhead console. For the front
seat positions, the best location seems to be the large access panel - this
is easy. The rear positions also can fit in the overhead console but the best
spot is behind the rear access panel. In this location I can't figure out how
to do the install.
I am also using an Aerosport center console and have thought about putting the
controllers on the front and back. These locations would work except I plan to
put the headphone jacks etc in these locations.
Given all that I have two questions.
1. For those who have installed in the overhead console, are you happy with this
location and if not why not. Pix of how the install worked would be great.
2. For those who installed elsewhere, I'd be interested in seeing pix of the location
and comments on the location.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ - Flying
C-GROK - Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479197#479197
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mouttain High )2 System Distribution Head Location |
I put mine in the center console and I regret it every time I fly....
Finding another location is something I'd like to do at some point in the
future.
My thought process was to put the headsets, oxygen outlets, and misc cables
(USB, Cigarette lighter, etc) near the center point of the cabin. It would
serve as the distribution point to all 4 seats and the cables/hoses would
not be a factor when exiting the airplane.
What I can tell you is that it's a nightmare to pull the console to
inspect/service the tunnel. It's a nightmare to get the cables/hoses
re-installed in a consistent enough fashion where the interior bin will sit
down flush and where the rudder cables won't rub against them. I really
regret putting anything in my center console. I should have left it naked
and when on finding a different spot. I constantly have mess of
cables/hoses to fight through. I've also found that with that many
wires/hoses in the box, things (wires and hoses) get pressed into position
and it binds them. I currently have an electrical gremlin in my pilot
outlet that I need to trace. I am 100% sure it's a connector issue but
when you can't permanently mount the wires and forget about them, things
like connector problems happen. That area is just too dynamic from
maintenance period to maintenance period to expect everything to be
rock-solid all the time.
If you do decide to install in the center console, I've attached some
pictures. The factory backing plates on the outlets were too wide to allow
side-by-side installation of the outlets in the width of the console. So
I had to remove them and build a single backing plate that allowed me to
squeeze the two outlets closer together. Worked well.
The overhead air console is probably a good choice, but I know MH wants you
to mount them in a place that has static cabin pressure. I know the sensor
is on the face of the outlet, but I still think it would be a good idea to
build a receptacle box in the overhead to hold them, then seal that box
with proseal so it won't be subject to the positive pressures inside the
overhead console. That's something I'm still considering as I'm not real
happy with my center console setup. I just have too many wires and not
enough space. Good luck!
Phil
On Mon, Apr 9, 2018 at 10:03 AM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I need to find reasonable locations for the distribution heads for my
> Mountain High O2 system.
>
> I am thinking of installing them in my Aerosport overhead console. For the
> front seat positions, the best location seems to be the large access panel
> - this is easy. The rear positions also can fit in the overhead console
> but the best spot is behind the rear access panel. In this location I can't
> figure out how to do the install.
>
> I am also using an Aerosport center console and have thought about putting
> the controllers on the front and back. These locations would work except I
> plan to put the headphone jacks etc in these locations.
>
> Given all that I have two questions.
>
> 1. For those who have installed in the overhead console, are you happy
> with this location and if not why not. Pix of how the install worked would
> be great.
>
> 2. For those who installed elsewhere, I'd be interested in seeing pix of
> the location and comments on the location.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ - Flying
> C-GROK - Some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479197#479197
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mouttain High )2 System Distribution Head Location |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Phil
Thanks for the pix and insights. In my flying -10, I did much the same thing except
I have a flange mounted CPC on the tunnel cover under the consol. To remove
the consol, I simply unscrew the CPC and the whole thing comes off as a unit.
I do have O2 ports on the front of consol as well except these are strictly outlets
(no electronic heads) as they predate the new MHS system. I only have a single
quick disconnect on a supply line to break.
I plan to do the same thing again on the center consol using a single CPC. I don't
want to put O2 on the console this time due to the additional wiring and connections
associated with the distribution head. Also, I like the real estate
for jacks etc.
Based on you comments I'll find a different home for the O2 distribution heads.
Lastly, my airplane builder fluid looks equally dark but generally says Guinness
and comes in a can.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479202#479202
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mouttain High )2 System Distribution Head Location |
If you look closely, I used a CPC too. No way Id try it without the CPC. Just
too many wires to my use one.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 9, 2018, at 11:13 AM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi Phil
>
> Thanks for the pix and insights. In my flying -10, I did much the same thing
except I have a flange mounted CPC on the tunnel cover under the consol. To remove
the consol, I simply unscrew the CPC and the whole thing comes off as a unit.
>
> I do have O2 ports on the front of consol as well except these are strictly outlets
(no electronic heads) as they predate the new MHS system. I only have a
single quick disconnect on a supply line to break.
>
> I plan to do the same thing again on the center consol using a single CPC. I
don't want to put O2 on the console this time due to the additional wiring and
connections associated with the distribution head. Also, I like the real estate
for jacks etc.
>
> Based on you comments I'll find a different home for the O2 distribution heads.
>
> Lastly, my airplane builder fluid looks equally dark but generally says Guinness
and comes in a can.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479202#479202
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
December 24, 2017 - April 09, 2018
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-nb