RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ne
August 20, 2018 - March 04, 2019
altitude run up through NJ in order to clear all the airline traffic
into Newark, LaGuardia and GA into Teterboro. And while it is busy
overhead it can even be busier down below with all the airports along
that NJ corridor. It can be a very uncomfortable flight VFR or IFR with
rising terrain and low under the Class B shelf traffic. Turned out KFRG
was the right choice and managed to get a perfect little RNAV 01 'T'
approach in actual logged.
Leaving KFRG (or KHPN) back to the south can be a breeze as well with
routing directly over KJFK. Flying that route VFR is always fun with
great views of the City and big heavy overseas flights getting a turn
towards Europe right after they spot the "RV at 6,000". It's just cool!
However, the next leg ended up being NYC to Pittsburgh and that
generally requires a northeast turn to Bridgeport before a wide
circumvention of NYC as you turn west. I got the clearance from the
tower and spent almost 15 minutes getting it all into FF so it could
decipher the Victor airways and then into the G430. Though previous
experience suggested I wouldn't hit many of the waypoints, traffic and
weather were such that I didn't want to add any in the air workload. I
just added the new Sentry product to the cockpit so I now had Nexrad
displayed on my panel GRTs and the FF iPad. Seems redundant but I
really like having both now. Anyway there was a broken line of rainy
build-ups but my cleared route was very doable.... then it suddenly wasn't.
I was cleared to taxi to the 01 but to hold for release from NY ATC.
Overhead a storm appeared in what was clear blue air 15 minutes ago. It
started to rain and the tower said it might be awhile, "there just isn't
anywhere to squeeze you in according to NY". I wasn't going to launch
into what quickly turned into a gusty driving rain. My wife had
fortunately lingered after dropping me off and I joined her in the car
after shutting down. I still didn't believe that the storm appeared out
of no where but playing it back on the iPad showed that it was exactly
what happened, and it happened in 4 to 6 minutes. Just amazing.
After 30 minutes or so the storm moved on a bit and I restarted and
taxied out to the opposite runway only to hold for release once again.
I could easily see that all NYC traffic was now being funneled through
just a few gaps in the storm line and they did not want to add me to the
mix.
With darkness approaching and the chance that my departure be weather
blocked again, I told the tower I was considering departing VFR and
picking up my IFR in the air over Carmel. They advised against it and
warned me that they may not give it to me. I studied the weather and a
VFR plan B and considered it doable. So I asked for a VFR departure and
was cleared for takeoff squawking 1200.
"Well, NY Approach for some reason just released you, do you still have
the original clearance?" Oh yeah, I was 300' in the air still over the
runway but with a wink and a nod the tower let me know that my decision
to depart motivated NY approach to let me in despite the jam.
I love NY ATC! They are fast talking and attitude rich but I lived
there for a dozen years and know that they will respond to a nudge or a
beep of the horn better than a "please, no, after you". Thanks for
letting me win one!
(And if you want to hear NYC Approach doing it's thing so to speak,
check this gem out from July Not angry NY ATC works Aer Lingus Flight
)
Bill "back home with 2 more approaches in actual and a scud run to
homeplate" Watson
N215TG
On 8/10/2018 6:58 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Just one of those days when nothing lined up properly!
>
> No need to overreact though. I know I will continue to pickup
> clearances in the air in my uncongested piece of the country but I
> won't hesitate to do it elsewhere when needed. Experience has
> suggested that it's not the best strategy say in the NYC area where
> you might get (quickly) scolded before (quickly) getting the
> clearance. And it can be a handful around Miami where there's bound
> to be a dozen VFR targets orbiting your climb corridor while ATC tries
> to locate your plane and your plan.
>
> I would suggest that if you include "IFR" somewhere in your initial
> call-up, you won't be ignored, even in the busiest airspace. And if
> you eliminate any mention of a opening an IFR flight plan you'll avoid
> much of what happened on that not so fateful day.
>
> Thanks for sharing the experience, I definitely learned some stuff.
>
> On 8/9/2018 5:33 PM, Dan Masys wrote:
>>
>> Thanks all for the educational input. I definitely have an IFR
>> departure
>> strategy now for this (and any) uncontrolled airport, particularly in
>> NorCal's jurisdiction: get a clearance plus void time release via phone
>> while on the ground, even if it is blue skies everywhere. It
>> eliminates the
>> issue of getting ignored during initial call-up, and saves any
>> misunderstanding caused by nonstandard radio phraseology.
>>
>> A few additional details on my long story:
>>
>> 1. When the female controller issued my clearance and I read it back
>> correctly, the last thing she said was 'Maintain VFR.', which led me to
>> believe the IFR clearance was not yet active.
>>
>> 2. This was further reinforced when approximately ten minutes later I
>> called
>> Oakland Center and their initial response was 'We don't have anything
>> in the
>> system for you.' After a pause the Center controller remarked, "Oh,
>> here it
>> is", followed by "cleared direct TTE."
>>
>> 3. I also was concerned that initially I had been given a VFR squawk,
>> and
>> asked the Center controller about it. He confirmed that the initial
>> code
>> given was an IFR code, which made the "maintain VFR" remark of the
>> previous
>> controller even more curious.
>>
>> But all of that notwithstanding, I know forevermore not to attempt to
>> 'open
>> an IFR flight plan' even though that phraseology had worked without
>> incident
>> literally for decades.
>>
>> Tailwinds to all,
>> -Dan Masys
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Parish Moffitt" <parish(at)parishmoffitt.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Getting beat up by NorCal ATC |
Great story Bill.
I have heard some of the funniest things from NY controllers and I call
two of them friends!
I fly into LGA and JFK for work rather than fun at least once a month
and I did it multiple times per day for a about a year at one point. I
have heard this gentle nudging that you refer to on the ground frequency
at LGA more than once!
Parish =9Cglad to not be based in the North East anymore=9D
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Getting beat up by NorCal ATC
Funny that I mentioned clearance strategies in the NYC area. I just
returned from a trip that included flying in and out of KFRG Republic
Farmingdale LI. My experience doesn't add anything to this discussion
(Robert Jones laid out the best approach), but I'll share it as a
slightly off-topic point of interest.
I suddenly had to fly into NYC on short notice. Though my destination
was in the Bronx making KHPN Westchester Co the closest satellite AP, I
chose to fly into KFRG because of IFR conditions. I know from
experience that coming from the south to KHPN will result in a minimum
altitude run up through NJ in order to clear all the airline traffic
into Newark, LaGuardia and GA into Teterboro. And while it is busy
overhead it can even be busier down below with all the airports along
that NJ corridor. It can be a very uncomfortable flight VFR or IFR with
rising terrain and low under the Class B shelf traffic. Turned out KFRG
was the right choice and managed to get a perfect little RNAV 01 'T'
approach in actual logged.
Leaving KFRG (or KHPN) back to the south can be a breeze as well with
routing directly over KJFK. Flying that route VFR is always fun with
great views of the City and big heavy overseas flights getting a turn
towards Europe right after they spot the "RV at 6,000". It's just cool!
However, the next leg ended up being NYC to Pittsburgh and that
generally requires a northeast turn to Bridgeport before a wide
circumvention of NYC as you turn west. I got the clearance from the
tower and spent almost 15 minutes getting it all into FF so it could
decipher the Victor airways and then into the G430. Though previous
experience suggested I wouldn't hit many of the waypoints, traffic and
weather were such that I didn't want to add any in the air workload. I
just added the new Sentry product to the cockpit so I now had Nexrad
displayed on my panel GRTs and the FF iPad. Seems redundant but I
really like having both now. Anyway there was a broken line of rainy
build-ups but my cleared route was very doable.... then it suddenly
wasn't.
I was cleared to taxi to the 01 but to hold for release from NY ATC.
Overhead a storm appeared in what was clear blue air 15 minutes ago. It
started to rain and the tower said it might be awhile, "there just isn't
anywhere to squeeze you in according to NY". I wasn't going to launch
into what quickly turned into a gusty driving rain. My wife had
fortunately lingered after dropping me off and I joined her in the car
after shutting down. I still didn't believe that the storm appeared out
of no where but playing it back on the iPad showed that it was exactly
what happened, and it happened in 4 to 6 minutes. Just amazing.
After 30 minutes or so the storm moved on a bit and I restarted and
taxied out to the opposite runway only to hold for release once again.
I could easily see that all NYC traffic was now being funneled through
just a few gaps in the storm line and they did not want to add me to the
mix.
With darkness approaching and the chance that my departure be weather
blocked again, I told the tower I was considering departing VFR and
picking up my IFR in the air over Carmel. They advised against it and
warned me that they may not give it to me. I studied the weather and a
VFR plan B and considered it doable. So I asked for a VFR departure and
was cleared for takeoff squawking 1200.
"Well, NY Approach for some reason just released you, do you still have
the original clearance?" Oh yeah, I was 300' in the air still over the
runway but with a wink and a nod the tower let me know that my decision
to depart motivated NY approach to let me in despite the jam.
I love NY ATC! They are fast talking and attitude rich but I lived
there for a dozen years and know that they will respond to a nudge or a
beep of the horn better than a "please, no, after you". Thanks for
letting me win one!
(And if you want to hear NYC Approach doing it's thing so to speak,
check this gem out from July Not angry NY ATC works Aer Lingus Flight
)
Bill "back home with 2 more approaches in actual and a scud run to
homeplate" Watson
N215TG
On 8/10/2018 6:58 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
Just one of those days when nothing lined up properly!
No need to overreact though. I know I will continue to pickup
clearances in the air in my uncongested piece of the country but I won't
hesitate to do it elsewhere when needed. Experience has suggested that
it's not the best strategy say in the NYC area where you might get
(quickly) scolded before (quickly) getting the clearance. And it can be
a handful around Miami where there's bound to be a dozen VFR targets
orbiting your climb corridor while ATC tries to locate your plane and
your plan.
I would suggest that if you include "IFR" somewhere in your initial
call-up, you won't be ignored, even in the busiest airspace. And if you
eliminate any mention of a opening an IFR flight plan you'll avoid much
of what happened on that not so fateful day.
Thanks for sharing the experience, I definitely learned some stuff.
On 8/9/2018 5:33 PM, Dan Masys wrote:
Thanks all for the educational input. I definitely have an IFR
departure
strategy now for this (and any) uncontrolled airport, particularly in
NorCal's jurisdiction: get a clearance plus void time release via phone
while on the ground, even if it is blue skies everywhere. It eliminates
the
issue of getting ignored during initial call-up, and saves any
misunderstanding caused by nonstandard radio phraseology.
A few additional details on my long story:
1. When the female controller issued my clearance and I read it back
correctly, the last thing she said was 'Maintain VFR.', which led me to
believe the IFR clearance was not yet active.
2. This was further reinforced when approximately ten minutes later I
called
Oakland Center and their initial response was 'We don't have anything in
the
system for you.' After a pause the Center controller remarked, "Oh,
here it
is", followed by "cleared direct TTE."
3. I also was concerned that initially I had been given a VFR squawk,
and
asked the Center controller about it. He confirmed that the initial
code
given was an IFR code, which made the "maintain VFR" remark of the
previous
controller even more curious.
But all of that notwithstanding, I know forevermore not to attempt to
'open
an IFR flight plan' even though that phraseology had worked without
incident
literally for decades.
Tailwinds to all,
-Dan Masys
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
_____
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www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Getting beat up by NorCal ATC |
I=99ve had similar experiences when flying around busy airspace. They o
ften want to dive you to a low altitude for arrivals, but I hate dropping 5
000 feet in cruise. If the weather allows, I say I=99ll just go VFR an
d climb 500=99. Usually they either say that=99s fine but keep y
our current squawk. Often enough they say they can keep me at my current alt
itude or give me a slight deviation and keep me high. They would much rather
have you in the system and know who and where you are than have you squawki
ng 1200 and doing whatever you feel like.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 20, 2018, at 4:31 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Funny that I mentioned clearance strategies in the NYC area. I just retur
ned from a trip that included flying in and out of KFRG Republic Farmingdale
LI. My experience doesn't add anything to this discussion (Robert Jones la
id out the best approach), but I'll share it as a slightly off-topic point o
f interest.
>
> I suddenly had to fly into NYC on short notice. Though my destination was
in the Bronx making KHPN Westchester Co the closest satellite AP, I chose t
o fly into KFRG because of IFR conditions. I know from experience that comi
ng from the south to KHPN will result in a minimum altitude run up through N
J in order to clear all the airline traffic into Newark, LaGuardia and GA i
nto Teterboro. And while it is busy overhead it can even be busier down bel
ow with all the airports along that NJ corridor. It can be a very uncomfort
able flight VFR or IFR with rising terrain and low under the Class B shelf t
raffic. Turned out KFRG was the right choice and managed to get a perfect l
ittle RNAV 01 'T' approach in actual logged.
>
> Leaving KFRG (or KHPN) back to the south can be a breeze as well with rout
ing directly over KJFK. Flying that route VFR is always fun with great view
s of the City and big heavy overseas flights getting a turn towards Europe r
ight after they spot the "RV at 6,000". It's just cool!
>
> However, the next leg ended up being NYC to Pittsburgh and that generally r
equires a northeast turn to Bridgeport before a wide circumvention of NYC a
s you turn west. I got the clearance from the tower and spent almost 15 min
utes getting it all into FF so it could decipher the Victor airways and then
into the G430. Though previous experience suggested I wouldn't hit many of t
he waypoints, traffic and weather were such that I didn't want to add any in
the air workload. I just added the new Sentry product to the cockpit so I
now had Nexrad displayed on my panel GRTs and the FF iPad. Seems redundant
but I really like having both now. Anyway there was a broken line of rainy
build-ups but my cleared route was very doable.... then it suddenly wasn't.
>
> I was cleared to taxi to the 01 but to hold for release from NY ATC. Over
head a storm appeared in what was clear blue air 15 minutes ago. It started
to rain and the tower said it might be awhile, "there just isn't anywhere t
o squeeze you in according to NY". I wasn't going to launch into what quick
ly turned into a gusty driving rain. My wife had fortunately lingered after
dropping me off and I joined her in the car after shutting down. I still d
idn't believe that the storm appeared out of no where but playing it back on
the iPad showed that it was exactly what happened, and it happened in 4 to 6
minutes. Just amazing.
>
> After 30 minutes or so the storm moved on a bit and I restarted and taxied
out to the opposite runway only to hold for release once again. I could ea
sily see that all NYC traffic was now being funneled through just a few gaps
in the storm line and they did not want to add me to the mix.
>
> With darkness approaching and the chance that my departure be weather bloc
ked again, I told the tower I was considering departing VFR and picking up m
y IFR in the air over Carmel. They advised against it and warned me that th
ey may not give it to me. I studied the weather and a VFR plan B and consid
ered it doable. So I asked for a VFR departure and was cleared for takeoff s
quawking 1200.
>
> "Well, NY Approach for some reason just released you, do you still have th
e original clearance?" Oh yeah, I was 300' in the air still over the runway
but with a wink and a nod the tower let me know that my decision to depart
motivated NY approach to let me in despite the jam.
>
> I love NY ATC! They are fast talking and attitude rich but I lived there f
or a dozen years and know that they will respond to a nudge or a beep of the
horn better than a "please, no, after you". Thanks for letting me win one!
>
> (And if you want to hear NYC Approach doing it's thing so to speak, check t
his gem out from July Not angry NY ATC works Aer Lingus Flight )
>
> Bill "back home with 2 more approaches in actual and a scud run to homepla
te" Watson
> N215TG
>
>> On 8/10/2018 6:58 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Just one of those days when nothing lined up properly!
>>
>> No need to overreact though. I know I will continue to pickup clearances
in the air in my uncongested piece of the country but I won't hesitate to d
o it elsewhere when needed. Experience has suggested that it's not the best
strategy say in the NYC area where you might get (quickly) scolded before (
quickly) getting the clearance. And it can be a handful around Miami where t
here's bound to be a dozen VFR targets orbiting your climb corridor while AT
C tries to locate your plane and your plan.
>>
>> I would suggest that if you include "IFR" somewhere in your initial call
-up, you won't be ignored, even in the busiest airspace. And if you elimina
te any mention of a opening an IFR flight plan you'll avoid much of what hap
pened on that not so fateful day.
>>
>> Thanks for sharing the experience, I definitely learned some stuff.
>>
>>> On 8/9/2018 5:33 PM, Dan Masys wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks all for the educational input. I definitely have an IFR departur
e
>>> strategy now for this (and any) uncontrolled airport, particularly in
>>> NorCal's jurisdiction: get a clearance plus void time release via phone
>>> while on the ground, even if it is blue skies everywhere. It eliminates
the
>>> issue of getting ignored during initial call-up, and saves any
>>> misunderstanding caused by nonstandard radio phraseology.
>>>
>>> A few additional details on my long story:
>>>
>>> 1. When the female controller issued my clearance and I read it back
>>> correctly, the last thing she said was 'Maintain VFR.', which led me to
>>> believe the IFR clearance was not yet active.
>>>
>>> 2. This was further reinforced when approximately ten minutes later I ca
lled
>>> Oakland Center and their initial response was 'We don't have anything in
the
>>> system for you.' After a pause the Center controller remarked, "Oh, her
e it
>>> is", followed by "cleared direct TTE."
>>>
>>> 3. I also was concerned that initially I had been given a VFR squawk, an
d
>>> asked the Center controller about it. He confirmed that the initial cod
e
>>> given was an IFR code, which made the "maintain VFR" remark of the previ
ous
>>> controller even more curious.
>>>
>>> But all of that notwithstanding, I know forevermore not to attempt to 'o
pen
>>> an IFR flight plan' even though that phraseology had worked without inci
dent
>>> literally for decades.
>>>
>>> Tailwinds to all,
>>> -Dan Masys
>>
>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>
>>
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>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun Visor user reports and comparison |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I installed the Rosen 310 sunvisor. It has the outside corner beveled to allow
the sunvisor to go up to the windshield. They also slide and can be positioned
anyway you like. I attached mine to the upper corner of the door frame.
If you have an overhead console, they should clear.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=482659#482659
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/sun_visor_126.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | 2.25" Backup Instruments |
I just realized that while I did a write-up on this, and a youtube
video, I haven't actually told anyone on the lists about it yet.
The write-up here, has all the history behind this, but the short
story is this: I've always wanted a better backup instrument, but
the panel space and the fact that I had cut 2.25" holes and didn't
have room for square instruments was limiting. I was finally going
to just give up and by 2 of the RC Allen 2600-2 instruments this
year, but *really* was not feeling good about that decision.
But a little google searching led me to a perfect option that
I hadn't found before. And, although it wasn't being sold in the
U.S., I decided to take the risk and try it and bought 2 for both
my RV10 and RV14.
Here's the write-up link:
https://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20180815/index.html
And a quick photo:
https://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20180815/RV20180718-200605-1668.jpg
I'm not affiliate with them in any way, and have received nothing
from them for showing them off, but needless to say, at the
price point (under $1000), I've become a fan of theirs and want
to share the info about it. Hopefully they'll be distributed in
the U.S. soon enough, and it'll be an easier (although it was
truly easy already) purchase for us U.S. Builders.
Anyway, the video gives some info, as does the write-up, so I won't
bore you here, but, after testing this in both planes and while
doing aerobatics, I can say that if you're looking for something
better to fill a 2.25" hole with, this would make an awesome
retrofit.
Hopefully it helps some of you who are currently dealing with
poor backups.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2.25" Backup Instruments |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Thanks Tim! This may be a home run for me. I've been looking to
upgrade my '3 pack' backup panel with a 1 hole attitude indicator/do all
and this looks like the ticket at a good price point. I would
desparately like to reconfigure my pilot panel with a larger GRT unit
and a single backup unit. I'm not totally comfortable with a solution
that requires electrons to work.
There are some very fine instruments available in Europe that are often
aimed at the glider/powered glider/LSA type market. That's been the
case for many years. Only a few get US distribution and some never do.
Bill
On 8/31/2018 12:08 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I just realized that while I did a write-up on this, and a youtube
> video, I haven't actually told anyone on the lists about it yet.
>
> The write-up here, has all the history behind this, but the short
> story is this: I've always wanted a better backup instrument, but
> the panel space and the fact that I had cut 2.25" holes and didn't
> have room for square instruments was limiting. I was finally going
> to just give up and by 2 of the RC Allen 2600-2 instruments this
> year, but *really* was not feeling good about that decision.
> But a little google searching led me to a perfect option that
> I hadn't found before. And, although it wasn't being sold in the
> U.S., I decided to take the risk and try it and bought 2 for both
> my RV10 and RV14.
>
> Here's the write-up link:
> https://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20180815/index.html
>
> And a quick photo:
> https://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20180815/RV20180718-200605-1668.jpg
>
>
> I'm not affiliate with them in any way, and have received nothing
> from them for showing them off, but needless to say, at the
> price point (under $1000), I've become a fan of theirs and want
> to share the info about it. Hopefully they'll be distributed in
> the U.S. soon enough, and it'll be an easier (although it was
> truly easy already) purchase for us U.S. Builders.
>
> Anyway, the video gives some info, as does the write-up, so I won't
> bore you here, but, after testing this in both planes and while
> doing aerobatics, I can say that if you're looking for something
> better to fill a 2.25" hole with, this would make an awesome
> retrofit.
>
> Hopefully it helps some of you who are currently dealing with
> poor backups.
>
> Tim
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2.25" Backup Instruments |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Bill,
That's exactly where this came from...it was by a company that was
really into the
glider market in Europe. I was talking to them though and they really would
love to be in the experimental market here too. I'm hoping maybe Stein
picks up their 2.25" unit at least, so that it's something that everyone can
easily get who has old gauges to upgrade. It's kind of a special niche
market
in that regards, as most U.S. people wouldn't probably want their other EFIS
products, and many who would get 3.5" gauges would go with a garmin G5 or
something. But, I am betting there are just tons of people out there
with 2.25"
holes to fill.
Regarding the electrons: I forgot to mention that really the only downsides
to this gauge that I've found are that: A) it's not as bright if you
view it
at way far off angles. 45 degrees is good, but if it's way on the other
side
of your panel, in certain conditions it may be tough. It's useable that way
for me on mine though. And B) it doesn't have a built-in battery backup
system. But, for that I think it would be real easy to either add your own
(especially something like a small IBBS (maybe a mini version)) or, maybe
not even worry about it.
You described your 2 battery system in a different email...once you get so
much redundancy, I'm not sure it's valid to worry about so many
simultaneous things going wrong. Is your alternator going to do?
Well, you've
got 2 batteries, which equals quite a bit of time to get on the ground
somewhere.
Is your battery dead? Well, you've got an alternator and another battery.
I mean, in my plane, I have 2 batteries but one alternator. If that
alternator
dies, I'm STILL going to be on the ground within an hour, no matter
what, and
hey, if I had a standby alternator, I would still do the same. You'd be
crazy to
continue while IFR on a standby alt, if there are good airports below.
And, at
160kts or more, you are never more than 30 minutes from an airport in
most areas of the U.S....especially the ones with the worst weather.
I'm still at least considering doing a D-I-Y independent power source, but,
it may be as simple as a small lithium battery pack that I keep charged up,
and if my primary systems die, I flip a switch and start drawing power
for this gauge from that. Would be pretty simple to do.
If you check out the specs on the unit, they say the draw is <2W at 12V.
It doesn't take much power to keep this thing running.
https://www.kanardia.eu/product/horis/
Tim
On 8/31/2018 11:48 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Thanks Tim! This may be a home run for me. I've been looking to
> upgrade my '3 pack' backup panel with a 1 hole attitude indicator/do
> all and this looks like the ticket at a good price point. I would
> desparately like to reconfigure my pilot panel with a larger GRT unit
> and a single backup unit. I'm not totally comfortable with a solution
> that requires electrons to work.
>
> There are some very fine instruments available in Europe that are
> often aimed at the glider/powered glider/LSA type market. That's been
> the case for many years. Only a few get US distribution and some
> never do.
>
> Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2.25" Backup Instruments |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Regarding power backup; with 2 alternators and 2 batteries I now
consider any additional backup batteries as an extra maintenance burden
with no foreseeable payoff. Batteries rarely fail(internal short), they
just slowly go bad. A simple maintenance check of the no-load voltage
on the Odyssey's can see that point coming on from quite a distance. If
I lose an alternator, I'm fine in VMC and will land immediately under
IMC conditions but with no unnecessary urgency. On a trip, a remote
failure of an alternator means that I just need a VFR day to take it
home and DIY the replacement. Very cost effective options if needed.
Having flown with the old vacuum pump setup, not being subject to a
slowly failing gyro instrument really keeps you ahead of things if there
is a failure. And a dual bus/batt/alt takes care of major electrical
component failures. 3 identical EFIS units provides triple redundancy
in the air and a welcome ability to send a unit back to the manufacturer
while swapping units around so I still have 2 units in front of the pilot.
Bill "wants to swap out the backup ADI, ASI, and ALT as well" Watson
*Going down to the hangar to see what an updated half a panel might look
like*
On 8/31/2018 1:23 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> That's exactly where this came from...it was by a company that was
> really into the
> glider market in Europe. I was talking to them though and they really
> would
> love to be in the experimental market here too. I'm hoping maybe Stein
> picks up their 2.25" unit at least, so that it's something that
> everyone can
> easily get who has old gauges to upgrade. It's kind of a special
> niche market
> in that regards, as most U.S. people wouldn't probably want their
> other EFIS
> products, and many who would get 3.5" gauges would go with a garmin G5 or
> something. But, I am betting there are just tons of people out there
> with 2.25"
> holes to fill.
>
> Regarding the electrons: I forgot to mention that really the only
> downsides
> to this gauge that I've found are that: A) it's not as bright if you
> view it
> at way far off angles. 45 degrees is good, but if it's way on the
> other side
> of your panel, in certain conditions it may be tough. It's useable
> that way
> for me on mine though. And B) it doesn't have a built-in battery backup
> system. But, for that I think it would be real easy to either add
> your own
> (especially something like a small IBBS (maybe a mini version)) or, maybe
> not even worry about it.
>
> You described your 2 battery system in a different email...once you
> get so
> much redundancy, I'm not sure it's valid to worry about so many
> simultaneous things going wrong. Is your alternator going to do?
> Well, you've
> got 2 batteries, which equals quite a bit of time to get on the ground
> somewhere.
> Is your battery dead? Well, you've got an alternator and another
> battery.
> I mean, in my plane, I have 2 batteries but one alternator. If that
> alternator
> dies, I'm STILL going to be on the ground within an hour, no matter
> what, and
> hey, if I had a standby alternator, I would still do the same. You'd
> be crazy to
> continue while IFR on a standby alt, if there are good airports
> below. And, at
> 160kts or more, you are never more than 30 minutes from an airport in
> most areas of the U.S....especially the ones with the worst weather.
> I'm still at least considering doing a D-I-Y independent power source,
> but,
> it may be as simple as a small lithium battery pack that I keep
> charged up,
> and if my primary systems die, I flip a switch and start drawing power
> for this gauge from that. Would be pretty simple to do.
>
> If you check out the specs on the unit, they say the draw is <2W at 12V.
> It doesn't take much power to keep this thing running.
> https://www.kanardia.eu/product/horis/
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 8/31/2018 11:48 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Tim! This may be a home run for me. I've been looking to
>> upgrade my '3 pack' backup panel with a 1 hole attitude indicator/do
>> all and this looks like the ticket at a good price point. I would
>> desparately like to reconfigure my pilot panel with a larger GRT unit
>> and a single backup unit. I'm not totally comfortable with a
>> solution that requires electrons to work.
>>
>> There are some very fine instruments available in Europe that are
>> often aimed at the glider/powered glider/LSA type market. That's been
>> the case for many years. Only a few get US distribution and some
>> never do.
>>
>> Bill
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2.25" Backup Instruments |
| From: | Michael Smith <jmsmithcpa(at)yahoo.com> |
Tim,
New to the matronics RV10 List and appreciate the write up and video you di
d. I just started my RV10 build and need great planning ideas like this whe
n I get to the panel.
Best,
Michael Smith
https://rv10airplaneadventures.com/
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 31, 2018, at 11:08 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I just realized that while I did a write-up on this, and a youtube
> video, I haven't actually told anyone on the lists about it yet.
>
> The write-up here, has all the history behind this, but the short
> story is this: I've always wanted a better backup instrument, but
> the panel space and the fact that I had cut 2.25" holes and didn't
> have room for square instruments was limiting. I was finally going
> to just give up and by 2 of the RC Allen 2600-2 instruments this
> year, but *really* was not feeling good about that decision.
> But a little google searching led me to a perfect option that
> I hadn't found before. And, although it wasn't being sold in the
> U.S., I decided to take the risk and try it and bought 2 for both
> my RV10 and RV14.
>
> Here's the write-up link:
> https://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20180815/index.html
>
> And a quick photo:
> https://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20180815/RV20180718-200605-1668.jpg
>
> I'm not affiliate with them in any way, and have received nothing
> from them for showing them off, but needless to say, at the
> price point (under $1000), I've become a fan of theirs and want
> to share the info about it. Hopefully they'll be distributed in
> the U.S. soon enough, and it'll be an easier (although it was
> truly easy already) purchase for us U.S. Builders.
>
> Anyway, the video gives some info, as does the write-up, so I won't
> bore you here, but, after testing this in both planes and while
> doing aerobatics, I can say that if you're looking for something
> better to fill a 2.25" hole with, this would make an awesome
> retrofit.
>
> Hopefully it helps some of you who are currently dealing with
> poor backups.
>
> Tim
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2.25" Backup Instruments |
Thanks for this info. I too am in the same boat and walked by the rc allen unit
for many years, but not able to justify the price. In your research did you consider
the MGL Vega color series. They said at Oshkosh they would have an all
in one available in several months.
http://www.mglavionics.com/html/vega_color_singles.html
-Chris
N919AR
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2.25" Backup Instruments
Bill,
That's exactly where this came from...it was by a company that was
really into the
glider market in Europe. I was talking to them though and they really would
love to be in the experimental market here too. I'm hoping maybe Stein
picks up their 2.25" unit at least, so that it's something that everyone can
easily get who has old gauges to upgrade. It's kind of a special niche
market
in that regards, as most U.S. people wouldn't probably want their other EFIS
products, and many who would get 3.5" gauges would go with a garmin G5 or
something. But, I am betting there are just tons of people out there
with 2.25"
holes to fill.
Regarding the electrons: I forgot to mention that really the only downsides
to this gauge that I've found are that: A) it's not as bright if you
view it
at way far off angles. 45 degrees is good, but if it's way on the other
side
of your panel, in certain conditions it may be tough. It's useable that way
for me on mine though. And B) it doesn't have a built-in battery backup
system. But, for that I think it would be real easy to either add your own
(especially something like a small IBBS (maybe a mini version)) or, maybe
not even worry about it.
You described your 2 battery system in a different email...once you get so
much redundancy, I'm not sure it's valid to worry about so many
simultaneous things going wrong. Is your alternator going to do?
Well, you've
got 2 batteries, which equals quite a bit of time to get on the ground
somewhere.
Is your battery dead? Well, you've got an alternator and another battery.
I mean, in my plane, I have 2 batteries but one alternator. If that
alternator
dies, I'm STILL going to be on the ground within an hour, no matter
what, and
hey, if I had a standby alternator, I would still do the same. You'd be
crazy to
continue while IFR on a standby alt, if there are good airports below.
And, at
160kts or more, you are never more than 30 minutes from an airport in
most areas of the U.S....especially the ones with the worst weather.
I'm still at least considering doing a D-I-Y independent power source, but,
it may be as simple as a small lithium battery pack that I keep charged up,
and if my primary systems die, I flip a switch and start drawing power
for this gauge from that. Would be pretty simple to do.
If you check out the specs on the unit, they say the draw is <2W at 12V.
It doesn't take much power to keep this thing running.
https://www.kanardia.eu/product/horis/
Tim
On 8/31/2018 11:48 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Thanks Tim! This may be a home run for me. I've been looking to
> upgrade my '3 pack' backup panel with a 1 hole attitude indicator/do
> all and this looks like the ticket at a good price point. I would
> desparately like to reconfigure my pilot panel with a larger GRT unit
> and a single backup unit. I'm not totally comfortable with a solution
> that requires electrons to work.
>
> There are some very fine instruments available in Europe that are
> often aimed at the glider/powered glider/LSA type market. That's been
> the case for many years. Only a few get US distribution and some
> never do.
>
> Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2.25" Backup Instruments |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Hi Chris,
No, I hadn't found that one before, actually. I saw it for the first
time maybe a couple weeks
ago. I haven't really been a fan of most of the MGL stuff in the past,
(years ago, that is)
so I didn't really look too hard at them when searching. It does look
like a decent gauge,
and looks like they've come a ways with it. The actual display looks to
be a little smaller,
and it would be nice if they put a better photo on the page. Notice how the
Kanardia fills most of the circle except for top and bottom, whereas the
MGL is smaller
and does not use the sides of the circle either. That knob placement in
the middle
probably gives up some screen real estate I suppose.
Anyway, it does look nice.
BTW: For people looking for a more analog look for round gauges,
Kanardia does
have the Indu series:
https://www.kanardia.eu/product/indu-round-indicators/
When I was trying to find the EFIS, I talked to the US distributor for
the Indu,
and he says they are sold thru Aircraft Spruce. I'd consider replacing my
2.25" 0 to 20,000' altimeter to get something more accurate, but
with the EFIS already displaying altitude, it would be a waste and just
for looks.
I just wish all this stuff we have today would have been available
back in 2005 when I was buying items for my panel. Especially
at the prices they are today.
Tim
On 9/1/2018 12:03 AM, Chris wrote:
>
> Thanks for this info. I too am in the same boat and walked by the rc allen unit
for many years, but not able to justify the price. In your research did you
consider the MGL Vega color series. They said at Oshkosh they would have an all
in one available in several months.
>
> http://www.mglavionics.com/html/vega_color_singles.html
>
> -Chris
>
> N919AR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Seat slide adjustment |
My RV-10 is pushing 12 years old and the right seat has always been difficult to
slide but not an issue until my wife had wanted to learn to fly. Ive tried various
lubricants but sense the real issue is a slight misalignment of the seat
rails. Has anyone found a way to tweak these or any other solutions?
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Seat slide adjustment |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I seem to recall the same issue - right seat hard to move, especially when fully
aft. I loosened the rail fasteners in the aft end, and the seat motion was much
better. I shimmed as needed, re-tightened the bolts. I cannot recall exactly
where I put the shims, but it may have been the supporting structure that extends
aft and looks like an inverted L.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=482846#482846
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dlm <dlm34077(at)gmail.com> |
For anyone using the Matco dual (four pads per wheel) pad internal rotor
brakes, anyone have some experience with these brakes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco brakes |
Yes, I have them installed.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic
s.com> on behalf of dlm
Sent: Sunday, September 2, 2018 8:41:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Matco brakes
For anyone using the Matco dual (four pads per wheel) pad internal rotor b
rakes, anyone have some experience with these brakes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun Visor user reports and comparison |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel900(at)gmail.com> |
I had Rosens in my RV10 and they were great. One sore point though is that they
scratched the windscreen when one of my bozo buddys slapped them around roughly.
To preclude that happening again, I put a dab of pro-seal along the edge that
could hit the window - no more problem. Highly recommend the Rosens, but hit
them with the dab of pro-seal when you install them. It looks ugly on the new
units, but it works.
--------
See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=482919#482919
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Auto Response: RV10-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/08/18 |
Thank you for the email. Please know that Howard has passed away. If you are NOT
a solicitor, please contact his wife Judy at tudulu2(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pop Rivet Dimple Die Question |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I dont remember ever pulling out that die for the 10.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483099#483099
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Philips" <jack(at)bedfordlandings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pop Rivet Dimple Die Question |
I've used it a lot. Great for when you forgot to dimple something before assembly,
or you make a change to the design. I used it when installing the Van's
kit for the landing lights because I didn't have a deep enough yoke for a squeezer
to reach.
Jack Phillips
Finishing Kit (Fiberglass Hell)
#40610
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia, where we are quietly awaiting the arrival of Florence
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 10:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pop Rivet Dimple Die Question
I dont remember ever pulling out that die for the 10.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483099#483099
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lester <brian.lester(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pop Rivet Dimple Die Question |
Yea, not required but can be useful in a few cases.
On Tue, Sep 11, 2018 at 10:51 AM Jack Philips
wrote:
>
>
> I've used it a lot. Great for when you forgot to dimple something before
> assembly, or you make a change to the design. I used it when installing
> the Van's kit for the landing lights because I didn't have a deep enough
> yoke for a squeezer to reach.
>
> Jack Phillips
> Finishing Kit (Fiberglass Hell)
> #40610
> Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia, where we are quietly awaiting the arrival
> of Florence
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 10:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pop Rivet Dimple Die Question
>
>
> I don=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t remember ever pulling out that die for the
10.
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 built and sold
> RV-10 built and flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483099#483099
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pop Rivet Dimple Die Question |
| From: | "Brantel" <brianchesteen(at)gmail.com> |
Specifically the 1/8 version?
I already bought a replacement 3/32 one that I know I will need.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483115#483115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vicki Jones <VickiAJones(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | GDL 82 Installation |
Has anyone installed the GDL 82 in their RV10? If so, where did you mount t
he unit? I'm trying to determine the best place.
Thanks in advance,
Vicki
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Abel <mikeabel900(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GDL 82 Installation |
Logical place is behind the wall in the baggage compartment. Maybe get a
kit from Vans like you use for mounting the AHARS or strobes back there.
> On Sep 15, 2018, at 8:35 AM, Vicki Jones
wrote:
>
> Has anyone installed the GDL 82 in their RV10? If so, where did you
mount the unit? I'm trying to determine the best place.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Vicki
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Conforma Wing Tips |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Is anyone out there using the Aveo Conforma Wing Tips.
I have a pair and have an install question. The W-1016 wing tip rib has a bit
of a bend on the top side that follows the bend in the standard wing tips. The
Conforma tips do not have this bend.
I am wondering if other builders forced this bend into the tip or modified the
W-1016 rib.
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ - Sold
C-GROK - Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483224#483224
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Blizzard" <cd.stone(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Have made the decision to build an RV-10 starting late fall or winter. Looking
for some guidance on getting tooled up to begin. Laundry list of tools needed,
suppliers, and particularly the best quality pneumatic tools that most are
using. Rivet gun, drill, squeezer, dimpler, hoses, swivels, etc. Thanks.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483374#483374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lester <brian.lester(at)gmail.com> |
Look at planetools.com or cleavelandtool. They both have good kits that
cover most of what you need.
Do a few searches regarding the drdt-2 to see if you want that or the
standard c-frame.
Highly recommend a pneumatic squeezer but you can get through without it.
Welcome to the club and good luck on the project!
On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 12:36 PM Blizzard wrote:
>
> Have made the decision to build an RV-10 starting late fall or winter.
> Looking for some guidance on getting tooled up to begin. Laundry list of
> tools needed, suppliers, and particularly the best quality pneumatic tools
> that most are using. Rivet gun, drill, squeezer, dimpler, hoses, swivels,
> etc. Thanks.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483374#483374
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
You'll get some good advice here.
Two general things I'd say:
1. I bought one of the 'kits' offered by several vendors. I found it
to be a real good starting point, especially for the many small bits
of hardware required. Saves a lot of time and they sent generally
good stuff. (I'd be specific but I forgot who and don't know if
they are still around)
2. I wrote this on another blog and think its a great thing if able to do:
"Generally speaking, one of the most informative events during my
build was attending a builder class where they had 3 or 4 different
brands or styles of each tool, including squeezers, guns,
countersinks, cleco pliers, etc. we were encouraged to try each of them.
It was a real eye opener in the sense that each student had strong
preferences for one flavor or a another and those preferences were
all over the map. Some of us even decided that certain tools werent
needed at all. Difficult to replicate but something tothinkabout."
In other words, there are few 'best tools', but a lot of good ones.
Personal preference is a big deal in some categories like hand
squeezers, pnuematic tools in general, and some optional tools like
pneumatic cleco guns.
Enjoy the build!
On 9/26/2018 12:29 PM, Blizzard wrote:
>
> Have made the decision to build an RV-10 starting late fall or winter. Looking
for some guidance on getting tooled up to begin. Laundry list of tools needed,
suppliers, and particularly the best quality pneumatic tools that most are
using. Rivet gun, drill, squeezer, dimpler, hoses, swivels, etc. Thanks.
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <parish(at)parishmoffitt.com> |
In retrospect, I think the decision on C-frame vs DRDT2 comes down to
help. If you plan to be solo most of the time, the DRDT is the way to
go. If you have a helper you can save yourself a few hundred dollars and
go with the C-Frame.and save the gym membership fee too.
I use ATS- Aircraft tool and supply for many of my tools as well as
cleaveland and brown for some.
Get the plans on the flash drive from Van=99s read what tools you
will need and start making a list. Then you can compare the various tool
dealers and keep the info in a spreadsheet. The kits are great; I just
think they have tools that you may not need for 2 years or more in them.
We all know you will need the basic stuff, airtank, lines, connections,
drill, squeezer of some kind.
Airtank----spend a few dollars here. I am getting ready to upgrade yet
once again and could have saved myself the time and money had I done it
right the first time. Get a 2 stage, 25 or more gallon, oiled air pump
and tankeither that or build a building way away from your
workspace for the cheepo tank we can get at Harbor Freight.
Airlines and fittings---I got these on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q759T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_
s02?ie=UTF8
&psc=1 I love this hose!
Get plenty of the #40, #30 drill bits.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Brian Lester
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2018 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tooling up
Look at planetools.com <http://planetools.com> or cleavelandtool. They
both have good kits that cover most of what you need.
Do a few searches regarding the drdt-2 to see if you want that or the
standard c-frame.
Highly recommend a pneumatic squeezer but you can get through without
it.
Welcome to the club and good luck on the project!
On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 12:36 PM Blizzard > wrote:
>
Have made the decision to build an RV-10 starting late fall or winter.
Looking for some guidance on getting tooled up to begin. Laundry list
of tools needed, suppliers, and particularly the best quality pneumatic
tools that most are using. Rivet gun, drill, squeezer, dimpler, hoses,
swivels, etc. Thanks.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483374#483374
-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BrBreck" <BBreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
John Jessen bought a DRDT-2 when it first came out and I promptly put it in my
hangar. Best move I ever made. Soon, I'm sure he'll want it back. It's a fantastic
tool. Build a carpet covered table around it and you won't regret it.
No banging noises and you can do it without an assistant.
Pneumatic squeezer with multiple "heads". I miss AVERY tools, but, I'm sure someone
has stepped up with an RV builder's kits that's more than adequate.
RV-10 Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483378#483378
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Philips" <jack(at)bedfordlandings.com> |
I agree with everything that has been said here, and will add just a
bit.
It is really helpful to have a good woodcutting bandsaw with the finest
toothed metal cutting blade you can get. There are a lot of cuts in
aluminum to be made and this will help immensely.
Also, although pricey, I found the tungsten bucking bars (I have two) to
be literally worth their weight in gold. They are small and able to fit
places where steel bars simply can=99t work. I would not consider
building an RV without them.
Jack Phillips
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
#40610 - Finishing
Having escaped Fiberglass Hell, I now find myself in Plexiglas Hell
=93 trimming windows and windshield
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
parish(at)parishmoffitt.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2018 1:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tooling up
In retrospect, I think the decision on C-frame vs DRDT2 comes down to
help. If you plan to be solo most of the time, the DRDT is the way to
go. If you have a helper you can save yourself a few hundred dollars and
go with the C-Frame.and save the gym membership fee too.
I use ATS- Aircraft tool and supply for many of my tools as well as
cleaveland and brown for some.
Get the plans on the flash drive from Van=99s read what tools you
will need and start making a list. Then you can compare the various tool
dealers and keep the info in a spreadsheet. The kits are great; I just
think they have tools that you may not need for 2 years or more in them.
We all know you will need the basic stuff, airtank, lines, connections,
drill, squeezer of some kind.
Airtank----spend a few dollars here. I am getting ready to upgrade yet
once again and could have saved myself the time and money had I done it
right the first time. Get a 2 stage, 25 or more gallon, oiled air pump
and tankeither that or build a building way away from your
workspace for the cheepo tank we can get at Harbor Freight.
Airlines and fittings---I got these on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q759T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_
s02?ie=UTF8
&psc=1 I love this hose!
Get plenty of the #40, #30 drill bits.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> On Behalf Of Brian
Lester
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2018 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tooling up
Look at planetools.com <http://planetools.com> or cleavelandtool. They
both have good kits that cover most of what you need.
Do a few searches regarding the drdt-2 to see if you want that or the
standard c-frame.
Highly recommend a pneumatic squeezer but you can get through without
it.
Welcome to the club and good luck on the project!
On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 12:36 PM Blizzard > wrote:
>
Have made the decision to build an RV-10 starting late fall or winter.
Looking for some guidance on getting tooled up to begin. Laundry list
of tools needed, suppliers, and particularly the best quality pneumatic
tools that most are using. Rivet gun, drill, squeezer, dimpler, hoses,
swivels, etc. Thanks.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483374#483374
-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doc <docclv(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 building tools |
I am building my second RV10 ii 8 years. First one took 18mo. Second
one about done in 9mo. Good places to get tools is Cleveland, Avery
Tools and the Yard Store in Wichita. I invested about $5,000 in tools.
One thing for sure is that Vans list is very, very deficient. You will
be ordering hard ware a lot as you go along also. You can google supply
stores for hard ware and non aircraft parts. Harbor Freight has
compressors, pop riveters, 2-foot hydraulic jacks, air hoses, right
angle grinders, wrench sets, sockets, etc., etc. I composed a list of
everything I could think of and then added more to the list as I talked
to builders and found out what I needed while building. You can't
imagine some of the tools you will need until you get going. Good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter <peter(at)peteraringer.de> |
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L3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbg0KPT09PT09PT09PT0NCg0KDQoNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I did my entire build with a pneumatic squeezer and occasionally
borrowed a hand squeezer. In retrospect, I would spend less on the
pneumatic by getting a used or rebuilt one from Brown or others, and get
a good hand squeezer that uses the same yokes. A hand squeezer has much
better control and finesse, while the pneumatic is better for multiple
rivets. The DRDT-2 is a fantastic tool, especially if building at home
and not wanting the noise of hammering on a C-frame.
On 9/26/2018 10:57 AM, BrBreck wrote:
>
> John Jessen bought a DRDT-2 when it first came out and I promptly put it in my
hangar. Best move I ever made. Soon, I'm sure he'll want it back. It's a
fantastic tool. Build a carpet covered table around it and you won't regret it.
No banging noises and you can do it without an assistant.
>
> Pneumatic squeezer with multiple "heads". I miss AVERY tools, but, I'm sure
someone has stepped up with an RV builder's kits that's more than adequate.
>
> RV-10 Fuselage
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483378#483378
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I should second the recommendation of a tungsten bucking bar. Very rarely
used any other bucking bar. Some form of metal cutting bandsaw is very
helpful, as is the combination belt/circular sander Harbor Freight offers.
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 6:43 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I did my entire build with a pneumatic squeezer and occasionally
> borrowed a hand squeezer. In retrospect, I would spend less on the
> pneumatic by getting a used or rebuilt one from Brown or others, and get
> a good hand squeezer that uses the same yokes. A hand squeezer has much
> better control and finesse, while the pneumatic is better for multiple
> rivets. The DRDT-2 is a fantastic tool, especially if building at home
> and not wanting the noise of hammering on a C-frame.
>
> On 9/26/2018 10:57 AM, BrBreck wrote:
> >
> > John Jessen bought a DRDT-2 when it first came out and I promptly put it
> in my hangar. Best move I ever made. Soon, I'm sure he'll want it back.
> It's a fantastic tool. Build a carpet covered table around it and you
> won't regret it. No banging noises and you can do it without an assistant.
> >
> > Pneumatic squeezer with multiple "heads". I miss AVERY tools, but, I'm
> sure someone has stepped up with an RV builder's kits that's more than
> adequate.
> >
> > RV-10 Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483378#483378
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Smith <jmsmithcpa(at)yahoo.com> |
I purchased all my tools from Cleaveland Tools and harbor freight. The tungs
ten bucking bar is worth the price. The fabrication of spar caps and others a
re easily accomplished with a band saw, belt and rotary sander, scotchbrite w
heel, and drill press. You can see the tools I use at
Https:/www.rv10airplaneadventures.com
Finishing the rudder tomorrow. Good luck with your build!
Michael Smith
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 26, 2018, at 9:09 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I should second the recommendation of a tungsten bucking bar. Very rarely u
sed any other bucking bar. Some form of metal cutting bandsaw is very helpfu
l, as is the combination belt/circular sander Harbor Freight offers.
> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>
>
>> On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 6:43 PM Kelly McMullen wrot
e:
>>
>> I did my entire build with a pneumatic squeezer and occasionally
>> borrowed a hand squeezer. In retrospect, I would spend less on the
>> pneumatic by getting a used or rebuilt one from Brown or others, and get
>> a good hand squeezer that uses the same yokes. A hand squeezer has much
>> better control and finesse, while the pneumatic is better for multiple
>> rivets. The DRDT-2 is a fantastic tool, especially if building at home
>> and not wanting the noise of hammering on a C-frame.
>>
>> On 9/26/2018 10:57 AM, BrBreck wrote:
>> >
>> > John Jessen bought a DRDT-2 when it first came out and I promptly put i
t in my hangar. Best move I ever made. Soon, I'm sure he'll want it back.
It's a fantastic tool. Build a carpet covered table around it and you won'
t regret it. No banging noises and you can do it without an assistant.
>> >
>> > Pneumatic squeezer with multiple "heads". I miss AVERY tools, but, I'm
sure someone has stepped up with an RV builder's kits that's more than adeq
uate.
>> >
>> > RV-10 Fuselage
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483378#483378
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I suggest a belt sander be added to the tool mix. It is very handy when cleaning
up straight cuts on parts.
Cheers
Les
C-GCWZ - Sold
C-GROK - Some assembly required
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483395#483395
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ceramic coating of exhaust |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I was chatting with my painter today and he suggested I look at getting my exhaust
tubes ceramic coated.
Has anyone tried this on an IO-540 and if so what was the result.
Comments / opinions appreciated.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483396#483396
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ceramic coating of exhaust |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I would check with Vetterman. IIRC he is opposed to a coating, with it
retaining more heat in the pipes.
On 9/26/2018 8:17 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I was chatting with my painter today and he suggested I look at getting my exhaust
tubes ceramic coated.
>
> Has anyone tried this on an IO-540 and if so what was the result.
>
> Comments / opinions appreciated.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483396#483396
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceramic coating of exhaust |
Ceramic coating is too often improperly applied externally and the result
is premature exhaust tube failure. Heat transfer is a normal process of
combustion. Tread cautiously.
John Cox
On Wed, Sep 26, 2018, 20:27 Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I would check with Vetterman. IIRC he is opposed to a coating, with it
> retaining more heat in the pipes.
>
> On 9/26/2018 8:17 PM, kearney wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > I was chatting with my painter today and he suggested I look at getting
> my exhaust tubes ceramic coated.
> >
> > Has anyone tried this on an IO-540 and if so what was the result.
> >
> > Comments / opinions appreciated.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Les
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483396#483396
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com> |
I'd recommend the cleveland kit as a good starting point. Mine came with a
#10 countersink bit which isn't needed, but you will need a #12, which
isn't included.
I've used the avery squeezer and the cleveland main squeeze--I think the
cleveland main squeeze is worth the extra money.
I would not recommend the sioux rivet gun. I bought the 3x and while it
hasn't stopped working, it leaks and is very inconsistent. I also have an
ingersoll-rand AVC 12 (roughly a 2x gun), and I love it.
The 1/4" sioux air drill, on the other hand, is fantastic. I know some
people just use a cordless, but I think my arm would have fallen off by now.
Get a real angle drill, I don't know how people were able to do the build
with one of the adapters.
In addition to the kit: Get a giant box of the maroon scotch brite. I also
got an entire set of numbered drill bits because every now and again the
plans call for a random size that's not in the RV kits. Two microstop
countersink cages are better than one because you're always switching
between #30 and #40. I've also wound up with a large selection of rivet
sets because I found that the kit supplied ones only work for 98% of the
rivets.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Blizzard" <cd.stone(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Lot of good information. Thanks to everyone who took the time to post. The more
info the better.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483413#483413
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <ogdenk(at)upstate.edu> |
I'm curious where people run their main cable from the battery to the
front of the plane. Through the tunnel? That seems like a pain and I
would have to drill some holes in the spar carrythrough or risk interferen
ce with the pitch push tube, plus route around the other things in there
like fuel and brake lines etc. I have some conduits run from the back up
the sides of the fuselage but I have a lot of stuff to run through them
and that is a fat cable coming from the battery.
Kent
#40710 ultra-slow build
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Byron Gillespie <bdgillespie215(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery cable |
I ran mine up the left sidewall where it would penetrate the firewall
near the relay. Most of the =9Csensitive=9D wires are on the
right side wall.
Byron
> On Sep 28, 2018, at 10:53 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
>
> I'm curious where people run their main cable from the battery to the
front of the plane. Through the tunnel? That seems like a pain and I
would have to drill some holes in the spar carrythrough or risk
interference with the pitch push tube, plus route around the other
things in there like fuel and brake lines etc. I have some conduits run
from the back up the sides of the fuselage but I have a lot of stuff to
run through them and that is a fat cable coming from the battery.
>
> Kent
> #40710 ultra-slow build
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery cable |
As you point out, the tunnel gets busy. The wires I have in the tunnel are limited
to the few things that make such runs convenient:
- Three antennas (comm #1 & #2 and transponder). The comm antennas are mounted
on the bottom of the tunnel, one on each side. This provides plenty of clearance
to the push tube and allows easy access. Transponder is under the passenger
seat. (Side note: ADS-B antenna is mounted aft of the baggage compartment
along with the ADS-B receiver, connecting wire is in a side conduit. VOR/ILS
antenna is in the right wingtip).
- Fuel pump.
- Audio lines to all four headsets.
- Flap wires.
- Both stick grip wires.
- Red cube wires.
Everything else is in conduit, three on each side of the plane. I ended up filling
up five of the six conduit runs. If memory serves the #2 welding cable going
from the two Master Solenoids mounded at the batteries go up to the starter
solenoid on the left side. Both battery ground wires go up the right side.
As most of us end up with a lot of stuff aft, more conduit is better than not
enough.
Carl
> On Sep 28, 2018, at 10:53 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
>
> I'm curious where people run their main cable from the battery to the front of
the plane. Through the tunnel? That seems like a pain and I would have to
drill some holes in the spar carrythrough or risk interference with the pitch
push tube, plus route around the other things in there like fuel and brake lines
etc. I have some conduits run from the back up the sides of the fuselage
but I have a lot of stuff to run through them and that is a fat cable coming from
the battery.
>
> Kent
> #40710 ultra-slow build
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery cable |
I would keep wires not called for by the plans out of the tunnel as much as
possible. I only have transponder (near front of tunnel), fuel pump wires
in the tunnel. This is a metal airframe. Absolutely zero need for a ground
wire from batteries to panel. The only ground wires needed for noise
reduction are those between panel mount items, audio panel and central
grounding tabs on firewall. Any item that draws more than a couple amps is
better grounded through the airframe. You don't have to believe me, that is
summary of discussions on the Aero-Electric forum.
You have enough wires fore and aft for positive power, com antennas, ADS-B,
autopilot servo(s), nav lights, strobes, etc.
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Fri, Sep 28, 2018 at 8:31 AM Carl Froehlich
wrote:
> carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
>
> As you point out, the tunnel gets busy. The wires I have in the tunnel
> are limited to the few things that make such runs convenient:
> - Three antennas (comm #1 & #2 and transponder). The comm antennas are
> mounted on the bottom of the tunnel, one on each side. This provides
> plenty of clearance to the push tube and allows easy access. Transponder
> is under the passenger seat. (Side note: ADS-B antenna is mounted aft of
> the baggage compartment along with the ADS-B receiver, connecting wire is
> in a side conduit. VOR/ILS antenna is in the right wingtip).
> - Fuel pump.
> - Audio lines to all four headsets.
> - Flap wires.
> - Both stick grip wires.
> - Red cube wires.
>
> Everything else is in conduit, three on each side of the plane. I ended
> up filling up five of the six conduit runs. If memory serves the #2
> welding cable going from the two Master Solenoids mounded at the batteries
> go up to the starter solenoid on the left side. Both battery ground wires
> go up the right side. As most of us end up with a lot of stuff aft, more
> conduit is better than not enough.
>
> Carl
>
> > On Sep 28, 2018, at 10:53 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
> >
> > I'm curious where people run their main cable from the battery to the
> front of the plane. Through the tunnel? That seems like a pain and I
> would have to drill some holes in the spar carrythrough or risk
> interference with the pitch push tube, plus route around the other things
> in there like fuel and brake lines etc. I have some conduits run from the
> back up the sides of the fuselage but I have a lot of stuff to run through
> them and that is a fat cable coming from the battery.
> >
> > Kent
> > #40710 ultra-slow build
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery cable |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
On 9/28/2018 10:53 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
> I'm curious where people run their main cable from the battery to the
> front of the plane. Through the tunnel? That seems like a pain and I
> would have to drill some holes in thespar carrythrough or risk
> interference with thepitchpush tube, plus route around the other
> things in there like fuel and brake lines etc. I have some conduits
> run from the back up the sides of the fuselage but I have a lot of
> stuff to run through them and that is a fat cablecoming from the battery.
>
> Kent
> #40710 ultra-slow build
Up the left side per the Electrical Kit plans.
I didn't buy the Electrical kit (most don't) but the plans for it are
very useful in terms of wire routing and discovering some parts (custom
cable supports and such) that are available from Vans. My electrical
system looks nothing like that supported by the kit but some of the
parts and particularly the fat cable route to the firewall are very
useful in many designs.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil in air filter box |
| From: | "Gordon Anderson" <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
Hi all, I am just in the last stages of ground testing before first flight. I have
a new IO-540 from Vans and have run it somewhere between 1 and 2 hours for
run-ups and taxi tests.
After each engine run I have found a little oil inside the throttle body, some
on the alternate air door, and some which appears to have been blown out the gap
between the filter box and its support plate. That implies the oil finds its
way into the filter box during running or priming.
Has anyone else seen this and know if it is normal during the first hours of break-in?
I have called Lycoming and they dont have a magic explanation, other than
preservation oil still making its way out of the engine. That seems unlikely
to me, so Im looking for altrenative explanations.
Cheers
Gordon Anderson
Switzreland 41015
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483422#483422
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil in air filter box |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I am guessing they're right on with it just being preservative oil.
I'd think it should end after a couple flights.
Tim
On 9/28/2018 11:16 AM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
>
> Hi all, I am just in the last stages of ground testing before first flight. I
have a new IO-540 from Vans and have run it somewhere between 1 and 2 hours for
run-ups and taxi tests.
> After each engine run I have found a little oil inside the throttle body, some
on the alternate air door, and some which appears to have been blown out the
gap between the filter box and its support plate. That implies the oil finds
its way into the filter box during running or priming.
> Has anyone else seen this and know if it is normal during the first hours of
break-in? I have called Lycoming and they dont have a magic explanation, other
than preservation oil still making its way out of the engine. That seems unlikely
to me, so Im looking for altrenative explanations.
>
> Cheers
>
> Gordon Anderson
> Switzreland 41015
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483422#483422
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Jones <rjones560xl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery cable |
I put my EarthX ETX 900 on the engine side of the firewall. I have a 43 poun
d prop with spinner so weight and balance will likely work out fine. I did t
he computations using Vans factory aircraft as a starting point and it was c
lose to a wash. I ran my starter cable back down the left side of the BPE oi
l pan and up and over the engine mount using adel clamps on the engine mount
. The battery weighs about 5 pounds and the battery cable will be about 18
=9D long. The starter cable is the longest. The Battery is on the lower r
ight side of the firewall. Yes it is more expensive, but it is a lot lighter
and I saved several pounds of #2 cable. They also last much longer and the d
ischarge rate while parked is close to insignificant.
Robert Jones
> On Sep 28, 2018, at 09:16, Bill Watson wrote:
>
>> On 9/28/2018 10:53 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
>> I'm curious where people run their main cable from the battery to the fro
nt of the plane. Through the tunnel? That seems like a pain and I would ha
ve to drill some holes in the spar carrythrough or risk interference with t
he pitch push tube, plus route around the other things in there like fuel an
d brake lines etc. I have some conduits run from the back up the s
ides of the fuselage but I have a lot of stuff to run through them and that i
s a fat cable coming from the battery.
>>
>> Kent
>> #40710 ultra-slow build
> Up the left side per the Electrical Kit plans.
>
> I didn't buy the Electrical kit (most don't) but the plans for it are very
useful in terms of wire routing and discovering some parts (custom cable su
pports and such) that are available from Vans. My electrical system looks n
othing like that supported by the kit but some of the parts and particularly
the fat cable route to the firewall are very useful in many designs.
>
>
>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
On my second condition inspection and came up with brake issue I thought I would
throw out to experts before I call Grove tomorrow. I was inspecting my right
brake and noticed excessive wear on the break pad on inboard/piston side...much
more than opposite pad or pads on left brakes. I then noticed that the piston
on the brake is in a extended position which accounts for uneven wear. Replacing
pads no big deal, but I need to figure out why piston stays out (it won't
push back in). I have pulled brake pedals all the way aft and doesn't seem to
help. This does not happen on left brake (piston and wear are normal). Don't
see any leaks. It was braking fine on all flights since last condition inspection
and I didn't notice this at last condition inspection. I was hoping for suggestions
or thoughts on the issue...hoping to not have to drain fluid. I have
attached photo. Thanks. Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483474#483474
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hs97czxpqw2zzxzrvvpfg_126.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Miller <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Try pulling the piston out and use a little scotch brite on the piston and the
cylinder. Sounds like a bit of grit is keeping it from moving freely.
grumpy
N184JM
> On Sep 30, 2018, at 11:50 AM, mhealydds wrote:
>
>
> On my second condition inspection and came up with brake issue I thought I would
throw out to experts before I call Grove tomorrow. I was inspecting my right
brake and noticed excessive wear on the break pad on inboard/piston side...much
more than opposite pad or pads on left brakes. I then noticed that the piston
on the brake is in a extended position which accounts for uneven wear. Replacing
pads no big deal, but I need to figure out why piston stays out (it won't
push back in). I have pulled brake pedals all the way aft and doesn't seem
to help. This does not happen on left brake (piston and wear are normal). Don't
see any leaks. It was braking fine on all flights since last condition inspection
and I didn't notice this at last condition inspection. I was hoping for
suggestions or thoughts on the issue...hoping to not have to drain fluid. I have
attached photo. Thanks. Matt
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483474#483474
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hs97czxpqw2zzxzrvvpfg_126.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Its common to have to disassemble the caliper and replace the oring on the piston
when the brake linings get low. I would pull it off and replace the oring and
look for any problems in working the piston in the caliper.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 30, 2018, at 12:50 PM, mhealydds wrote:
>
>
> On my second condition inspection and came up with brake issue I thought I would
throw out to experts before I call Grove tomorrow. I was inspecting my right
brake and noticed excessive wear on the break pad on inboard/piston side...much
more than opposite pad or pads on left brakes. I then noticed that the piston
on the brake is in a extended position which accounts for uneven wear. Replacing
pads no big deal, but I need to figure out why piston stays out (it won't
push back in). I have pulled brake pedals all the way aft and doesn't seem
to help. This does not happen on left brake (piston and wear are normal). Don't
see any leaks. It was braking fine on all flights since last condition inspection
and I didn't notice this at last condition inspection. I was hoping for
suggestions or thoughts on the issue...hoping to not have to drain fluid. I have
attached photo. Thanks. Matt
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483474#483474
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hs97czxpqw2zzxzrvvpfg_126.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Odds are you rolled the O ring on the puck - so the puck no longer moves freely.
Replace it, fill and bleed. I had this happen on one side at about the 100
hour point. First indication was a very worn tire after I noticed one brake
dragging.
These puck O rings are good to have in your airplane stuff I carry with me box,
along with a set of brake pads.
Carl
> On Sep 30, 2018, at 12:50 PM, mhealydds wrote:
>
>
> On my second condition inspection and came up with brake issue I thought I would
throw out to experts before I call Grove tomorrow. I was inspecting my right
brake and noticed excessive wear on the break pad on inboard/piston side...much
more than opposite pad or pads on left brakes. I then noticed that the piston
on the brake is in a extended position which accounts for uneven wear. Replacing
pads no big deal, but I need to figure out why piston stays out (it won't
push back in). I have pulled brake pedals all the way aft and doesn't seem
to help. This does not happen on left brake (piston and wear are normal). Don't
see any leaks. It was braking fine on all flights since last condition inspection
and I didn't notice this at last condition inspection. I was hoping for
suggestions or thoughts on the issue...hoping to not have to drain fluid. I have
attached photo. Thanks. Matt
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483474#483474
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hs97czxpqw2zzxzrvvpfg_126.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
What others have said. I don't know with the Grove calipers, but the
Cleveland calipers used on the RV-10 are somewhat prone to having the
piston cock a little to one side, and you can see it on wear. It also
results in brake fluid leaking well before the pad is worn out. I've not
had that problem with Clevelands on other aircraft, but this particular
caliper seems a little deficient in that regard.
New O-ring, new brake pad, and a good dry lube (silicone or similar) on
the pins the caliper floats on. If it isn't floating freely that will
cause wear on one pad.
On 9/30/2018 10:14 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> Odds are you rolled the O ring on the puck - so the puck no longer moves freely.
Replace it, fill and bleed. I had this happen on one side at about the
100 hour point. First indication was a very worn tire after I noticed one brake
dragging.
>
> These puck O rings are good to have in your airplane stuff I carry with me box,
along with a set of brake pads.
>
> Carl
>
>> On Sep 30, 2018, at 12:50 PM, mhealydds wrote:
>>
>>
>> On my second condition inspection and came up with brake issue I thought I would
throw out to experts before I call Grove tomorrow. I was inspecting my right
brake and noticed excessive wear on the break pad on inboard/piston side...much
more than opposite pad or pads on left brakes. I then noticed that the piston
on the brake is in a extended position which accounts for uneven wear. Replacing
pads no big deal, but I need to figure out why piston stays out (it won't
push back in). I have pulled brake pedals all the way aft and doesn't seem
to help. This does not happen on left brake (piston and wear are normal). Don't
see any leaks. It was braking fine on all flights since last condition inspection
and I didn't notice this at last condition inspection. I was hoping for
suggestions or thoughts on the issue...hoping to not have to drain fluid. I
have attached photo. Thanks. Matt
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483474#483474
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hs97czxpqw2zzxzrvvpfg_126.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe McKervey" <mckervey(at)charter.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2018 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake Issue
Try pulling the piston out and use a little scotch brite on the piston and
the cylinder. Sounds like a bit of grit is keeping it from moving freely.
grumpy
N184JM
> On Sep 30, 2018, at 11:50 AM, mhealydds wrote:
>
>
> On my second condition inspection and came up with brake issue I thought I
would throw out to experts before I call Grove tomorrow. I was inspecting my
right brake and noticed excessive wear on the break pad on inboard/piston
side...much more than opposite pad or pads on left brakes. I then noticed
that the piston on the brake is in a extended position which accounts for
uneven wear. Replacing pads no big deal, but I need to figure out why piston
stays out (it won't push back in). I have pulled brake pedals all the way
aft and doesn't seem to help. This does not happen on left brake (piston and
wear are normal). Don't see any leaks. It was braking fine on all flights
since last condition inspection and I didn't notice this at last condition
inspection. I was hoping for suggestions or thoughts on the issue...hoping
to not have to drain fluid. I have attached photo. Thanks. Matt
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483474#483474
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hs97czxpqw2zzxzrvvpfg_126.jpg
>
>
> John,
You should check to see if your piston is reversed.
It's not that difficult to bleed the brakes.
Joe>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks all I will work on that today. Luckily local shop had those o-rings in stock.
Thanks again.
Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483502#483502
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dlm <dlm34077(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 Matco brakes |
I have the following spare parts available for the Matco heavy duty brakes
for the RV10'
2 wheels including bearings, spacers and washers $75 each
2 sets of two brake shoes with new pads $75 each
1 bag misc. shoe spacers and bolts $50
I was an original prototype user of these brakes; since I fly from paved,
lengthy strips I find I do not need the extra stopping power. Anyone using
the Matco brakes may call concerning these serviceable parts. 480-626-4048
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dlm <dlm34077(at)gmail.com> |
A long time ago (2006) in a land far way, my buddy and I developed a
procedure to anchor inertial seat belts in the RV10 "lid". One of the users
of that procedure kept a copy of that website; I believe his location was
in UT or possibly Canada. Please contact me if you a copy of same as
another new builder is considering it. Thanks. 480-626-4048
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mhealydds" <mhealydds(at)gmail.com> |
After adjusting timing (off 3 degrees) and doing a leak check after second annual
condition inspection I have an oil leak under right mag on stock IO-540 engine.
I assume that means I need new gasket. I see two part numbers. Which gasket
do I need?
Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483645#483645
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto gasket |
For the C4B5 and D4A5 I only see one gasket for the mag and adapter: 62224.
What other part number do you see? Do you have an engine other than the
most common 250/260hp IO-540?
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Sat, Oct 6, 2018 at 10:33 AM mhealydds wrote:
>
> After adjusting timing (off 3 degrees) and doing a leak check after second
> annual condition inspection I have an oil leak under right mag on stock
> IO-540 engine. I assume that means I need new gasket. I see two part
> numbers. Which gasket do I need?
>
> Matt
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483645#483645
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Actuator Motor |
Had an issue with my flaps not moving on occasion. Was going to replace
the unit (approx $450) but found a paper on Vans site
(Support|Contstruction FAQ|Flap Motor Maintenance) called Flaky Flap
Motors. It said that in 2002 they switched suppliers and the new units
used a motor made by Pittman. It said the problem appeared to be in the
previous units using a Motion Systems motor.
Mine was the newer unit (Pittman) but the reported problem apparently
was caused by grease from the gearbox getting into the motor causing
failure. Even though mine was the newer motor I followed the procedure
and it seems to have solved the problem. Since this was a little hard to
find I'll copy the procedure below. The original has several highly
useful pictures.
Note: there some washers on the end shaft. Keep track of the order in
which they were installed. also a couple of small o rings.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ (Home of the Arizona Territorial Prison) (Not a current or
former inmate)
FLAKY FLAP MOTORS Over the years, we=99ve received the occasional
report of intermittent flap motor operation. We never found a consistent
problem. Sometimes it was poor wiring or a bad ground, a couple times it
was a switch giving up, occasionally the problem would be with the motor
itself. But problems were rare, and the flap motors in our demonstrator
airplanes worked day in, day out, for years. In 2002, we switched
suppliers, replacing the units we=99d received from Motion Systems
with a custom made unit powered by a Pittman brand motor. The new units
can identified by the Van=99s logo incised on the aluminum gear
box housing. Not long after the change was made we got a significant
number of complaints about motors failing after just a few hours.
Naturally, we suspected the new motorsbut as it turns out, the
newer =9CVan=99s=9D units were not the culprit.
Instead, the problem seems to appear in one of the last batches of
Motion Systems units. These we received about three years ago and they
are now starting to appear in finished airplanes. The problem is usually
caused by an excess of grease in the gearbox (that=99s the almost
cubical casting where the flap actuator tube and the motor meet at right
angles). As the unit spins, hydraulic pressure pushes grease back into
the motor unit and coats the windings, commutator and brushes. Grease is
an insulator, and when the brushes are insulated from the commutator,
yo=99 motor don=99 motate no mo=99. Cleanliness is
next towell, it makes your flap motor work better too. You can
remove the cap on the end of the motor and wipe the commutator shaft
clean and your motor will work for a while. But to really solve the
problem, all the grease must be removed from the flap motor or the whole
cycle will just repeat. Remove the actuator unit from the aircraft and
take it a clean, well-lighted bench. Assemble a small jar of clean
lacquer thinner, some cotton swabs, a Phillips screwdriver, an allen key
set, tweezers and some of those very thin wire ties that come on loaves
of bread. If you=99re of an age and have a magnifying visor, bring
it. Remove the Phillips screws from the motor assembly and gently,
carefully, remove the steel cap from the end of the motor. Inside is a
black plastic horseshoe wrapped around a shaft. Notice the three small
holes in the heel of the horseshoe. Turn over the cap and look inside
=93 see the little index pin? See where it goes =93 that
hole in the horseshoe? Remember that. There are several washers on the
shaft. These must be reinstalled in the order they came out, so
carefully note and preserve their orientation as you remove them. Slide
the horseshoe gently off the motor shaft. A couple of little copper
colored things are going to jump out (those are the brushes). They are
retained by very thin wire springs. Now use the allen key to remove the
bolts holding the motor to the gear box. Pull the motor winding/shaft
assembly out of the cylindrical housing (the magnets will resist, but it
will come out) and inspect it for grease and corruption. Clean the motor
and brush assembly with lacquer thinner or some other clean solvent.
Scoop any excess grease out of the gearbox. There should be enough to
lubricate the gears, but the whole cavity does not need to be full of
grease. Be careful not to disturb the tiny o-ring in the recess of the
gearbox. Clean the commutator (the shiny part of the shaft that the
brushes ride on) with the cotton swabs or even a bit of scotchbrite.
Reassembling the motor can be more difficult than getting it apart.
Begin by teasing the little springs that go behind the brushes back into
their recess and tie them back with the wire ties. This may take some
patience When the springs are held back, use the tweezers to
re-insert the brushes, taking care that curve worn on their contact
surface matches the curve of the motor shaft. Tie the brushes back.
Insert the gear end of the motor shaft back into the gearbox and check
to see the baseplate is down tight. Put the cylinder/magnet back around
the motor =93 the little notch in the rim should be on end away
from the gearbox. Gently, carefully put the horseshoe back around the
shaft and slide the wire ties out. The springs should force the brushes
up against the commutator. Reinstall the washers. Reinstall the cap with
the long Phillips screws. Find a 12-v battery and test the motor by
holding the wires against the posts. Reversing the wires should make the
motor run the other direction. The motor unit and screws securing the
housing to the gearbox. The long phillips-head and short allen-head
screws have been removed or backed off and the motor separated from the
gear box. The motor cap and the horseshoe shaped brush housing have been
removed. The brushes have popped out of the housing, and if you look
closely, you can see the tiny spring that must be behind the brush when
it is re-inserted. The springs keep the brushes up against the motor
armature. The motor armature has been removed from within the motor
housing and the washers removed from the motor shaft. Tucking the
springs and brushes back into their cubbyholes is the toughest part of
the exercise. Be careful not to bend the springs. A small spacer made of
any non-magnetic scrap, that keeps the brushes pushed back will help get
the =9Chorseshoe=9D back on the shaft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
I just wonder, if anyone has the 6 cyl P200 emagair ignition in use and
what the experience is so far.
Cheers Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lyn Robertson <lyn.robertson(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: emagair P200 |
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IF8tPQ0KPiBfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
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IC0NCj4gXy09IFNhbWUgZ3JlYXQgY29udGVudCBhbHNvIGF2YWlsYWJsZSB2aWEgdGhlIFdlYiBG
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IF8tPQ0KPiBfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQo+DQo+DQo+DQo+DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: emagair P200 |
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
Hi Lyn,
you could be registered on a preseries with a depot and got a better
price and this once are delivered as far as I heard since summer so I
thought I ask if someone is already using one :)
Did you ask for pricing as well?
Thanks anyway
Cheers
Werner
On 30.10.2018 07:26, Lyn Robertson wrote:
> Hi Werner,
> I contacted Brad at EMag today and if I understood his reply correctly,
> the P200 isnt available yet.
>
> SafT switch is a feature of our new Series 200T (soon to release as a
> six cylinder model).
>
> FWIW,
> Lyn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: emagair P200 |
Here are some websites to check out.=C2- These units have been installed
on quite a few planes for quite a while now.=C2- They are almost complet
e with FAA testing (which has been a total pain in the ass) to be instlled
as a direct mag replacement on various certified planes.=C2- Same group t
hat started Skytec starters and Plane Power alternators.=C2-
Matronics Email Lists :: View topic - SureFly Electronic Ignition
|
|
| |
Matronics Email Lists :: View topic - SureFly Electronic Ignition
|
|
|
https://backcountrypilot.org/forum/new-electronic-ignition-system-coming-19
698
http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?do=main.ajTextPost&id=442b456a-4f61-
4c62-b0fa-c7e31435fb30
son(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Werner,I contacted Brad at EMag today and if I understood his reply cor
rectly, the P200 isn=99t available yet.=C2-
=9CSafT switch is a feature of our new Series 200T (soon to release a
s a six cylinder model).=9C
FWIW,Lyn
On Sat, Oct 27, 2018 at 14:03 Werner Schneider wrote:
I just wonder, if anyone has the 6 cyl P200 emagair ignition in use and
what the experience is so far.
Cheers Werner
-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RV10-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lyn Robertson <lyn.robertson(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: emagair P200 |
Hi Werner,
I am just doing preliminary investigations into which electronic ignition
to use so I haven't asked for pricing yet. I am building an RV-14A and so
far have only the empennage and wings completed so I have some time before
making a decision about my ignition system.
I will be interested to see if anyone replies to your original post. The
P200T seems like a big improvement over previous models. While I really
like the PMag conceptually, there are several reports out there of "loss of
timing" which concern me. People have said that the loss of timing can
occur in such a way as to prevent the engine from running even if there is
still a function mag available. E-Mag's solution (for models prior to
P200T) is to simply "turn off" the offending mag but it takes time to
determine which one has failed and the failure might occur during a phase
of flight when extra time just isn't available. If I understand the
intent, the "tandem" approach in the model P200T means that, in the event
of a loss of timing, one could simply switch both mags to "fixed" (without
knowing specifically which one failed) and have the equivalent of
traditional mags. Switching the mags is more or less instantaneous so no
time is lost troubleshooting.
Anyway, this new model seems to address the only real concern I had about
using PMags. I have heard really great things about them, otherwise.
Best regards,
Lyn
On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 2:07 AM Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Hi Lyn,
>
> you could be registered on a preseries with a depot and got a better
> price and this once are delivered as far as I heard since summer so I
> thought I ask if someone is already using one :)
>
> Did you ask for pricing as well?
>
> Thanks anyway
>
> Cheers
>
> Werner
>
> On 30.10.2018 07:26, Lyn Robertson wrote:
> > Hi Werner,
> > I contacted Brad at EMag today and if I understood his reply correctly,
> > the P200 isn=99t available yet.
> >
> > =9CSafT switch is a feature of our new Series 200T (soon to relea
se as a
> > six cylinder model).=9C
> >
> > FWIW,
> > Lyn
> >
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List 2018 Fund Raiser During |
November!
Dear Listers,
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I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
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Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
RV-4/RV-6/RV-8 Builder/Rebuilder/Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on the -10.
Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake caliper model
number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the label on the caliper. I
did not take a picture of it at install.
I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
Thanks, Jim C
40192 - N312F
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Hi Jim,
I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
And a page I saved once for myself:
https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cleveland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
Tim
PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
yesterday.
Because:
A) I like you guys, and
B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
> Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on the
> -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
> caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the label on
> the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
>
> I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
>
> Thanks, Jim C
>
> 40192 - N312F
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
Great! - Thanks
On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 2:46 PM Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
>
> https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
>
> Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
> https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
>
> And a page I saved once for myself:
>
>
> https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cleveland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
>
> Tim
>
>
> PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
> yesterday.
>
> Because:
> A) I like you guys, and
>
> B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
>
>
> On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
> > Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on the
> > -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
> > caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the label on
> > the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
> >
> > I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
> >
> > Thanks, Jim C
> >
> > 40192 - N312F
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
All you need to "overhaul" caliper is the correct O-ring, unless there are
damaged parts. I suppose brake pads as well.
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:32 PM Jim Combs wrote:
> Great! - Thanks
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 2:46 PM Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Jim,
>>
>> I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
>>
>> https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
>>
>> Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
>> https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
>>
>> And a page I saved once for myself:
>>
>>
>> https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cleveland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
>> yesterday.
>>
>> Because:
>> A) I like you guys, and
>>
>> B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>> > Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on the
>> > -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
>> > caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the label
>> on
>> > the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
>> >
>> > I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
>> >
>> > Thanks, Jim C
>> >
>> > 40192 - N312F
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
Where can I get a correct o-ring made from a material that is compatible
with the fluid and will work at the brake temperatures?
Jim C
On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
> All you need to "overhaul" caliper is the correct O-ring, unless there are
> damaged parts. I suppose brake pads as well.
>
> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:32 PM Jim Combs wrote:
>
>> Great! - Thanks
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 2:46 PM Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Jim,
>>>
>>> I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
>>>
>>> https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
>>>
>>> Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
>>> https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
>>>
>>> And a page I saved once for myself:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cleveland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>> PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
>>> yesterday.
>>>
>>> Because:
>>> A) I like you guys, and
>>>
>>> B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>>> > Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on the
>>> > -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
>>> > caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the label
>>> on
>>> > the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
>>> >
>>> > I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
>>> >
>>> > Thanks, Jim C
>>> >
>>> > 40192 - N312F
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> br> fts!)
>>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
So I did find on Aircraft Spruce web page a Cleveland Brake Applications
PDF that listed Vans RV series aircraft including the -10. It has a part
breakdown of the 30-59E and listed the correct O-Ring. The cleveland part
is 101-05200 also known as a MS28775-224 military spec part. Got them
ordered.
Great list and support from fellow RV-10 people.
Thanks, Jim Combs
N312F
On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
> All you need to "overhaul" caliper is the correct O-ring, unless there are
> damaged parts. I suppose brake pads as well.
>
> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:32 PM Jim Combs wrote:
>
>> Great! - Thanks
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 2:46 PM Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Jim,
>>>
>>> I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
>>>
>>> https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
>>>
>>> Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
>>> https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
>>>
>>> And a page I saved once for myself:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cleveland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>> PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
>>> yesterday.
>>>
>>> Because:
>>> A) I like you guys, and
>>>
>>> B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>>> > Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on the
>>> > -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
>>> > caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the label
>>> on
>>> > the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
>>> >
>>> > I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
>>> >
>>> > Thanks, Jim C
>>> >
>>> > 40192 - N312F
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> br> fts!)
>>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
I think I got some from a friend in a split order from McMaster Carr. We sw
itched to Viton for I think higher temp resistance. It=99s been a loo
ooong time now. I use the synthetic version of aviation brake fluid.
Tim
> On Nov 2, 2018, at 5:41 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>
> Where can I get a correct o-ring made from a material that is compatible w
ith the fluid and will work at the brake temperatures?
>
> Jim C
>
>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> All you need to "overhaul" caliper is the correct O-ring, unless there ar
e damaged parts. I suppose brake pads as well.
>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>
>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:32 PM Jim Combs wrote:
>>> Great! - Thanks
>>>
>>>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 2:46 PM Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Jim,
>>>>
>>>> I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
>>>>
>>>> Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
>>>> https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
>>>>
>>>> And a page I saved once for myself:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cle
veland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
>>>> yesterday.
>>>>
>>>> Because:
>>>> A) I like you guys, and
>>>>
>>>> B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>>>> > Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on the
>>>> > -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
>>>> > caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the label
on
>>>> > the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
>>>> >
>>>> > I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
>>>> >
>>>> > Thanks, Jim C
>>>> >
>>>> > 40192 - N312F
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> br> fts!)
>>>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> ==========
>>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Na
vigator?RV10-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> FORUMS -
>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> WIKI -
>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> b Site -
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
Jim
I think I have some that you could have. I can check tomorrow. These are the
Viton that Tim is talking about. Also I used the Royco 756, Higher flash po
int.
I did get them at McMaster
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling & Design
> On Nov 2, 2018, at 9:28 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I think I got some from a friend in a split order from McMaster Carr. We s
witched to Viton for I think higher temp resistance. It=99s been a lo
oooong time now. I use the synthetic version of aviation brake fluid.
> Tim
>
>> On Nov 2, 2018, at 5:41 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>>
>> Where can I get a correct o-ring made from a material that is compatible w
ith the fluid and will work at the brake temperatures?
>>
>> Jim C
>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>> All you need to "overhaul" caliper is the correct O-ring, unless there a
re damaged parts. I suppose brake pads as well.
>>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:32 PM Jim Combs wrote:
>>>> Great! - Thanks
>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 2:46 PM Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi Jim,
>>>>>
>>>>> I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
>>>>>
>>>>> Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
>>>>> https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
>>>>>
>>>>> And a page I saved once for myself:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cl
eveland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
>>>>> yesterday.
>>>>>
>>>>> Because:
>>>>> A) I like you guys, and
>>>>>
>>>>> B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>>>>> > Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on th
e
>>>>> > -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
>>>>> > caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the labe
l on
>>>>> > the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Thanks, Jim C
>>>>> >
>>>>> > 40192 - N312F
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>>
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> br> fts!)
>>>>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
>>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV10-List
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> FORUMS -
>>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> WIKI -
>>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> b Site -
>>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
>>>>> ==========
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
I have several people that I know with -10s and i ordered extras as well.
I have spares now too.
Thanks, Jim C
On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 9:33 PM Tim Olson wrote:
> I think I got some from a friend in a split order from McMaster Carr. We
> switched to Viton for I think higher temp resistance. It=99s been
a looooong
> time now. I use the synthetic version of aviation brake fluid.
> Tim
>
> On Nov 2, 2018, at 5:41 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>
> Where can I get a correct o-ring made from a material that is compatible
> with the fluid and will work at the brake temperatures?
>
> Jim C
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>> All you need to "overhaul" caliper is the correct O-ring, unless there
>> are damaged parts. I suppose brake pads as well.
>>
>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:32 PM Jim Combs wrote:
>>
>>> Great! - Thanks
>>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 2:46 PM Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Jim,
>>>>
>>>> I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
>>>>
>>>> Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
>>>> https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
>>>>
>>>> And a page I saved once for myself:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cl
eveland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
>>>> yesterday.
>>>>
>>>> Because:
>>>> A) I like you guys, and
>>>>
>>>> B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>>>> > Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on th
e
>>>> > -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
>>>> > caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the labe
l
>>>> on
>>>> > the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
>>>> >
>>>> > I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
>>>> >
>>>> > Thanks, Jim C
>>>> >
>>>> > 40192 - N312F
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> br> fts!)
>>>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> ==========
>>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> FORUMS -
>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> WIKI -
>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> b Site -
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Brake Caliper Model Number |
Thanks,
I have already ordered the parts. I did have to buy 25 (Min Qnty) but I
want spares and I have two other -10 owners that asked me to order some for
them too. So we will share as well.
Thanks, Jim C
On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 9:47 PM g.combs
wrote:
> Jim
> I think I have some that you could have. I can check tomorrow. These are
> the Viton that Tim is talking about. Also I used the Royco 756, Higher
> flash point.
> I did get them at McMaster
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Geoff Combs
> Aerosport Modeling & Design
>
>
> On Nov 2, 2018, at 9:28 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I think I got some from a friend in a split order from McMaster Carr. We
> switched to Viton for I think higher temp resistance. It=99s been
a looooong
> time now. I use the synthetic version of aviation brake fluid.
> Tim
>
> On Nov 2, 2018, at 5:41 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>
> Where can I get a correct o-ring made from a material that is compatible
> with the fluid and will work at the brake temperatures?
>
> Jim C
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>> All you need to "overhaul" caliper is the correct O-ring, unless there
>> are damaged parts. I suppose brake pads as well.
>>
>> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:32 PM Jim Combs wrote:
>>
>>> Great! - Thanks
>>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 2:46 PM Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Jim,
>>>>
>>>> I think it's a 30-59E. At least that's what my maintenance notes say:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.skygeek.com/cleveland-30-59e-brake-assembly.html
>>>>
>>>> Here's a whole Cleveland pdf on it:
>>>> https://www.parker.com/literature/WBtech.PDF
>>>>
>>>> And a page I saved once for myself:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.myrv10.com/tips/maintenance/Cleveland_Wheels_and_Brakes/Cl
eveland_RV10_Brakes.pdf
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> PS: You're reminding me why I sent in my 2018 Donation to Matronics
>>>> yesterday.
>>>>
>>>> Because:
>>>> A) I like you guys, and
>>>>
>>>> B) This is the fastest method to get this kind of information.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 11/2/18 1:26 PM, Jim Combs wrote:
>>>> > Does anyone have the Cleveland brake caliper model number used on th
e
>>>> > -10. Vans delivered this a wheel set and does not have the brake
>>>> > caliper model number. I need a rebuild kit and cannot read the labe
l
>>>> on
>>>> > the caliper. I did not take a picture of it at install.
>>>> >
>>>> > I believe it is a 30-59 but not sure.
>>>> >
>>>> > Thanks, Jim C
>>>> >
>>>> > 40192 - N312F
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> br> fts!)
>>>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> ==========
>>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> FORUMS -
>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> WIKI -
>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> b Site -
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine
subscription!
Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the
Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your
Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that ilk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, Commercial-greade
Internet Connection, air conditioning, maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc.
I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser each year during the month of November
where I simply send out a short email every other day asking the members to make
a small contribution to support the operation. That being said, that contribution
is completely voluntary and non-compulsory. Many members choose not
to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | FS: Aerosport landing light kit |
Hi list,
I have an unused Aerosport cowl landing light kit for the RV-10:
https://www.aerosportproducts.com/landinglight.htm
This is the universal version where you supply your own light. Aerosport
can provide mounting plates for MR-16, Kuntzelman, and Baja Designs LED
lights or a precut blank for a "custom" installation.
$170 shipped in the US.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Aerosport landing light kit |
David, I'm like this if it is still available.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Carr
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2018 5:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FS: Aerosport landing light kit
Hi list,
I have an unused Aerosport cowl landing light kit for the RV-10:
https://www.aerosportproducts.com/landinglight.htm
This is the universal version where you supply your own light. Aerosport
can provide mounting plates for MR-16, Kuntzelman, and Baja Designs LED
lights or a precut blank for a "custom" installation.
$170 shipped in the US.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Re: FS: Aerosport landing light kit |
Hi Albert,
I sent you a direct email reply---just wanted to make sure it went through.
David
On Wed, Nov 7, 2018 at 10:29 PM, Albert wrote:
> David, I'm like this if it is still available.
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> N991RV
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David Carr
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 07, 2018 5:11 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: FS: Aerosport landing light kit
>
>
> Hi list,
>
>
> I have an unused Aerosport cowl landing light kit for the RV-10:
>
> https://www.aerosportproducts.com/landinglight.htm
>
>
> This is the universal version where you supply your own light. Aerosport
> can provide mounting plates for MR-16, Kuntzelman, and Baja Designs LED
> lights or a precut blank for a "custom" installation.
>
>
> $170 shipped in the US.
>
>
> David
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Contribution - Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least
that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get
a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to
think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during
this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through
YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Went out flying this morning and when I got back it looks like someone
is parked in my spot!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dick Gurley <rngurley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 VS Osprey |
I bet the Osprey has a shorter takeoff roll
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 10, 2018, at 4:19 PM, Albert wrote:
>
> Went out flying this morning and when I got back it looks like someone is
parked in my spot!
>
> <20181110_092911 (6) (Small).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 VS Osprey |
The damn nerve of some people !!!
Robert E Brunkenhoefer
> On Nov 10, 2018, at 3:27 PM, Dick Gurley wrote:
>
> I bet the Osprey has a shorter takeoff roll
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 10, 2018, at 4:19 PM, Albert wrote:
>>
>> Went out flying this morning and when I got back it looks like someone i
s parked in my spot!
>>
>> <20181110_092911 (6) (Small).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 VS Osprey |
Maybe your plane.... you think an Osprey can get off the ground in under 3
00'?
tt.net> wrote:
I bet the Osprey has a shorter takeoff roll
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 10, 2018, at 4:19 PM, Albert wrote:
Went out flying this morning and when I=C2- got back it looks like someon
e is parked in my spot!
=C2-
<20181110_092911 (6) (Small).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 VS Osprey |
The Osprey can do a vertical takeoff, but they seldom do. We had one come vi
sit us. They planned a training mission to come see and test fly an RV-10 at
KGNV. Pretty cool machine.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 10, 2018, at 6:41 PM, Don McDonald wro
te:
>
> Maybe your plane.... you think an Osprey can get off the ground in under 3
00'?
>
net> wrote:
>
>
> I bet the Osprey has a shorter takeoff roll
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 10, 2018, at 4:19 PM, Albert wrote:
>>
>
> Went out flying this morning and when I got back it looks like someone is
parked in my spot!
>
>
>
>> <20181110_092911 (6) (Small).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Hi,
I'm wondering if anyone has installed a WX-500 in their RV-10 and if so if
they know where the preferred mounting location is for the antenna?=C2- T
he obvious place to put it is under the tailcone near the leading edge of t
he tailplane but that might not be the quietest.=C2- The L3 installation
manual says the plane should be surveyed to find the best location but I wo
nder if there might be a generic position that others have found?
Many thanks in anticipation
Rodger (40437)It's 43C today and just warming up!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 VS Osprey |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
I hope that you left them a Birthday card!
Happy Birthday 243! Semper Fi
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=484775#484775
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button... |
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages.
Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through
the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added
to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund
Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes
to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric
bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered
on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which
allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in
reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined
with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site
up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics
Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are
so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have
it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous
public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser.
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming Soon! |
Dear Listers,
There's just two more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means
the List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
A quick reminder that November is the annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists
are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are covered solely
through your Contributions during this time of the year.
*Your* personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics
Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running for another
great year!
Use a credit card or your PayPal account here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by sending a personal check to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort
of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have
helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Ive seen a few photos of doors with a fabric interior lining. Can anyone provide
a source to have them made or anyone have any patterns. Abby at Flightline no
longer makes them.
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485330#485330
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Mine are fabric covered, but it isn't anything that is special. Abby
did sell me the fabric, but all I did was glue it on and trim it.
You could buy suitable fabric anywhere and just glue and stretch it in
place and do what I did.
Tim
On 11/19/2018 8:29 PM, whodja wrote:
>
> Ive seen a few photos of doors with a fabric interior lining. Can anyone provide
a source to have them made or anyone have any patterns. Abby at Flightline
no longer makes them.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485330#485330
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
Did you just use spray on contact like 3M?
Cheers
John MacCallum
VHDUU
Sent from my iPhone
> On 20 Nov 2018, at 1:45 pm, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Mine are fabric covered, but it isn't anything that is special. Abby
> did sell me the fabric, but all I did was glue it on and trim it.
> You could buy suitable fabric anywhere and just glue and stretch it in
> place and do what I did.
> Tim
>
>
>> On 11/19/2018 8:29 PM, whodja wrote:
>> Ive seen a few photos of doors with a fabric interior lining. Can anyone provide
a source to have them made or anyone have any patterns. Abby at Flightline
no longer makes them.
>> Thanks
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485330#485330
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I may have it on my website, I'm not sure. It's been 12 years now. ;)
But, I think it was this stuff: 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive.
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-18767/Aerosols/3M-Super-77-Spray-Adhesive-Low-VOC?pricode=WB1191&gadtype=pla&id=S-18767&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_s7fBRDrARIsAGEvF8TA3pVgSr2ak_N8E0-rq0Anfi_eQPeywRLPkYodmdy17YR79MXFy6AaAnLTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Tim
On 11/20/18 12:11 AM, John MacCallum wrote:
>
> Did you just use spray on contact like 3M?
>
> Cheers
> John MacCallum
> VHDUU
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
FWIW, I installed Abbey's interior and have been pretty happy with it.
However, after having covered the doors and flown it for a few years, I
decided to remove the fabric and just paint the doors in conjunction
with a door latch upgrade.
I prefer the doors painted. I have the fabric headliner in.
The thing I never could get to work well is the window trim. A more
careful and patient person could do a better job I'm sure. But the
fabric covered rubber round (or double round) they supplied is subject
to heat expansion and contraction which I found makes it impossible to
glue and have it stay in place while sitting on the ramp in say, Phoenix.
Just FYI.
Bill "finishing up a panel upgrade where the new large screen EFIS isn't
working and won't be in time for the trip to Mom and TG day GD!" Watson
....time to punt.
On 11/19/2018 9:29 PM, whodja wrote:
>
> Ive seen a few photos of doors with a fabric interior lining. Can anyone provide
a source to have them made or anyone have any patterns. Abby at Flightline
no longer makes them.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485330#485330
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I used 3m Super 77 on some of the stuff. But there is also a
purpose-made spray on glue for headliners available at auto supply
places. Works perfectly for headliners and doors - a bit easier to work
with than Super 77.
On 11/20/2018 9:29 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I may have it on my website, I'm not sure. It's been 12 years now. ;)
> But, I think it was this stuff: 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive.
>
> https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-18767/Aerosols/3M-Super-77-Spray-Adhesive-Low-VOC?pricode=WB1191&gadtype=pla&id=S-18767&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_s7fBRDrARIsAGEvF8TA3pVgSr2ak_N8E0-rq0Anfi_eQPeywRLPkYodmdy17YR79MXFy6AaAnLTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
>
> Tim
>
> On 11/20/18 12:11 AM, John MacCallum wrote:
>>
>>
>> Did you just use spray on contact like 3M?
>>
>> Cheers
>> John MacCallum
>> VHDUU
>>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
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Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | "bill.peyton" <billpeyton9(at)gmail.com> |
I painted the interior of my doors. I used an epoxy based single stage paint with
a flattening agent. To add texture to the surface I came back and spayed
with a 1-3psi setting on the paint gun. This "spattered" liquid paint on to
the surface. When it dries it looks slightly textured. I did this for all the
interior surfaces that show. I also have the Aerosport headliner and interior
panels. I matched the paint to the kydex interior panels. It is very difficult
to put the material on the door surface and get a nice looking finish around
the edges and windows. In addition, it adds weight to the door, which will
cause you to use the higher pressure gas struts.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485473#485473
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Ditto on the weight and higher pressure gas cylinder.
On 11/21/2018 9:27 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
> I painted the interior of my doors. I used an epoxy based single stage paint
with a flattening agent. To add texture to the surface I came back and spayed
with a 1-3psi setting on the paint gun. This "spattered" liquid paint on
to the surface. When it dries it looks slightly textured. I did this for all
the interior surfaces that show. I also have the Aerosport headliner and interior
panels. I matched the paint to the kydex interior panels. It is very difficult
to put the material on the door surface and get a nice looking finish
around the edges and windows. In addition, it adds weight to the door, which
will cause you to use the higher pressure gas struts.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485473#485473
>
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I wouldn't say it's a guaranteed problem. I'm still
running my original 2005 gas cylinders, with fabric covered
doors, and it hasn't been a problem yet. The doors are
fully resting open right now, in fact.
I also think that having at least some sort of covering
will help a little to deaden sound. That said, a painted
door will look just fine too. I wouldn't hesitate to put
light fabric on again, myself.
Tim
On 11/21/2018 12:21 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Ditto on the weight and higher pressure gas cylinder.
>
> On 11/21/2018 9:27 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>>
>> I painted the interior of my doors. I used an epoxy based single
>> stage paint with a flattening agent. To add texture to the surface I
>> came back and spayed with a 1-3psi setting on the paint gun. This
>> "spattered" liquid paint on to the surface. When it dries it looks
>> slightly textured. I did this for all the interior surfaces that
>> show. I also have the Aerosport headliner and interior panels. I
>> matched the paint to the kydex interior panels. It is very difficult
>> to put the material on the door surface and get a nice looking finish
>> around the edges and windows. In addition, it adds weight to the
>> door, which will cause you to use the higher pressure gas struts.
>>
>> --------
>> Bill
>> WA0SYV
>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485473#485473
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
Im still on regular cylinders with the same light fabric from Abby that Tim describes.
I also have the flush door handles. No problems.
David Maib
> On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I wouldn't say it's a guaranteed problem. I'm still
> running my original 2005 gas cylinders, with fabric covered
> doors, and it hasn't been a problem yet. The doors are
> fully resting open right now, in fact.
>
> I also think that having at least some sort of covering
> will help a little to deaden sound. That said, a painted
> door will look just fine too. I wouldn't hesitate to put
> light fabric on again, myself.
> Tim
>
>> On 11/21/2018 12:21 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>> Ditto on the weight and higher pressure gas cylinder.
>>> On 11/21/2018 9:27 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>>>
>>> I painted the interior of my doors. I used an epoxy based single stage paint
with a flattening agent. To add texture to the surface I came back and spayed
with a 1-3psi setting on the paint gun. This "spattered" liquid paint on
to the surface. When it dries it looks slightly textured. I did this for all
the interior surfaces that show. I also have the Aerosport headliner and interior
panels. I matched the paint to the kydex interior panels. It is very
difficult to put the material on the door surface and get a nice looking finish
around the edges and windows. In addition, it adds weight to the door, which
will cause you to use the higher pressure gas struts.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Bill
>>> WA0SYV
>>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485473#485473
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | "David J. Fritzsche" <dfritz(at)bpgsim.com> |
This discussion is very interesting. I have been kicking around what to
do with my interior, doors, inside, maybe overhead console, maybe not,
headliner, etc. It is about decision time if I am ever going to finish
the plane. I need to change some personal priorities. I appreciate the
help some of you have provided when I had specific questions I directed
at a few members. Always enjoy advice from those who have gone before.
David
On 11/21/2018 11:41 AM, David Maib wrote:
>
> Im still on regular cylinders with the same light fabric from Abby that Tim describes.
I also have the flush door handles. No problems.
>
> David Maib
>
>
>> On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> I wouldn't say it's a guaranteed problem. I'm still
>> running my original 2005 gas cylinders, with fabric covered
>> doors, and it hasn't been a problem yet. The doors are
>> fully resting open right now, in fact.
>>
>> I also think that having at least some sort of covering
>> will help a little to deaden sound. That said, a painted
>> door will look just fine too. I wouldn't hesitate to put
>> light fabric on again, myself.
>> Tim
>>
>>> On 11/21/2018 12:21 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>> Ditto on the weight and higher pressure gas cylinder.
>>>> On 11/21/2018 9:27 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I painted the interior of my doors. I used an epoxy based single stage paint
with a flattening agent. To add texture to the surface I came back and spayed
with a 1-3psi setting on the paint gun. This "spattered" liquid paint
on to the surface. When it dries it looks slightly textured. I did this for
all the interior surfaces that show. I also have the Aerosport headliner and
interior panels. I matched the paint to the kydex interior panels. It is very
difficult to put the material on the door surface and get a nice looking finish
around the edges and windows. In addition, it adds weight to the door, which
will cause you to use the higher pressure gas struts.
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Bill
>>>> WA0SYV
>>>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485473#485473
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> ---
>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
I appreciate all the ideas. Ill paint the interior as planned and continue to look
for a source to cover the inside.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485501#485501
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists!
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
Hi David,
I installed a Overhead Console in my 10. I did so because I thought if I ever
wanted to put Air Conditioning in it would be handy to have it there already.
I havent done so as yet but I did put Map Lights where the Vents would go if I
had have. In hind sight the Overhead console looks good and it does give you
somewhere for your Head Sets to hang off and also have the Cabin Lights installed
there on. It really wasnt hard to install and maybe took me about 8 or 10
hours including putting the lights in.
Its your plane in the final analysis so you do what you would like.
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
> On 22 Nov 2018, at 4:07 pm, David J. Fritzsche wrote:
>
>
> This discussion is very interesting. I have been kicking around what to do with
my interior, doors, inside, maybe overhead console, maybe not, headliner,
etc. It is about decision time if I am ever going to finish the plane. I need
to change some personal priorities. I appreciate the help some of you have
provided when I had specific questions I directed at a few members. Always enjoy
advice from those who have gone before.
>
> David
>
>> On 11/21/2018 11:41 AM, David Maib wrote:
>>
>> Im still on regular cylinders with the same light fabric from Abby that Tim
describes. I also have the flush door handles. No problems.
>>
>> David Maib
>>
>>
>>> On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I wouldn't say it's a guaranteed problem. I'm still
>>> running my original 2005 gas cylinders, with fabric covered
>>> doors, and it hasn't been a problem yet. The doors are
>>> fully resting open right now, in fact.
>>>
>>> I also think that having at least some sort of covering
>>> will help a little to deaden sound. That said, a painted
>>> door will look just fine too. I wouldn't hesitate to put
>>> light fabric on again, myself.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>> On 11/21/2018 12:21 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>>> Ditto on the weight and higher pressure gas cylinder.
>>>>> On 11/21/2018 9:27 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I painted the interior of my doors. I used an epoxy based single stage paint
with a flattening agent. To add texture to the surface I came back and spayed
with a 1-3psi setting on the paint gun. This "spattered" liquid paint
on to the surface. When it dries it looks slightly textured. I did this for
all the interior surfaces that show. I also have the Aerosport headliner and
interior panels. I matched the paint to the kydex interior panels. It is very
difficult to put the material on the door surface and get a nice looking finish
around the edges and windows. In addition, it adds weight to the door, which
will cause you to use the higher pressure gas struts.
>>>>>
>>>>> --------
>>>>> Bill
>>>>> WA0SYV
>>>>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485473#485473
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> ---
>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
I think you will find a fair number of -10 builders combined the overhead
console with two NACA scoops behind the baggage compartment to feed air
vents overhead. It makes a big difference for me in Aridzona. I also
installed map lights next to the vents.
Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
On Sat, Nov 24, 2018 at 3:25 AM John MacCallum
wrote:
> john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com>
>
> Hi David,
> I installed a Overhead Console in my 10. I did so because I thought if I
> ever wanted to put Air Conditioning in it would be handy to have it there
> already. I haven=99t done so as yet but I did put Map Lights where
the Vents
> would go if I had have. In hind sight the Overhead console looks good and
> it does give you somewhere for your Head Sets to hang off and also have t
he
> Cabin Lights installed there on. It really wasn=99t hard to instal
l and
> maybe took me about 8 or 10 hours including putting the lights in.
> It=99s your plane in the final analysis so you do what you would li
ke.
>
> Cheers
> John MacCallum
> VH-DUU
>
> > On 22 Nov 2018, at 4:07 pm, David J. Fritzsche
> wrote:
> >
m
> >
> >
> > This discussion is very interesting. I have been kicking around what t
o
> do with my interior, doors, inside, maybe overhead console, maybe not,
> headliner, etc. It is about decision time if I am ever going to finish t
he
> plane. I need to change some personal priorities. I appreciate the help
> some of you have provided when I had specific questions I directed at a f
ew
> members. Always enjoy advice from those who have gone before.
> >
> > David
> >
> >> On 11/21/2018 11:41 AM, David Maib wrote:
> >>
> >> I=99m still on regular cylinders with the same light fabric from
Abby
> that Tim describes. I also have the flush door handles. No problems.
> >>
> >> David Maib
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I wouldn't say it's a guaranteed problem. I'm still
> >>> running my original 2005 gas cylinders, with fabric covered
> >>> doors, and it hasn't been a problem yet. The doors are
> >>> fully resting open right now, in fact.
> >>>
> >>> I also think that having at least some sort of covering
> >>> will help a little to deaden sound. That said, a painted
> >>> door will look just fine too. I wouldn't hesitate to put
> >>> light fabric on again, myself.
> >>> Tim
> >>>
> >>>> On 11/21/2018 12:21 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> >>>> Ditto on the weight and higher pressure gas cylinder.
> >>>>> On 11/21/2018 9:27 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
> billpeyton9(at)gmail.com>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I painted the interior of my doors. I used an epoxy based single
> stage paint with a flattening agent. To add texture to the surface I cam
e
> back and spayed with a 1-3psi setting on the paint gun. This "spattere
d"
> liquid paint on to the surface. When it dries it looks slightly textured
.
> I did this for all the interior surfaces that show. I also have the
> Aerosport headliner and interior panels. I matched the paint to the kyde
x
> interior panels. It is very difficult to put the material on the door
> surface and get a nice looking finish around the edges and windows. In
> addition, it adds weight to the door, which will cause you to use the
> higher pressure gas struts.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> --------
> >>>>> Bill
> >>>>> WA0SYV
> >>>>> Aviation Partners, LLC
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Read this topic online here:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485473#485473
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>> ---
> >>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> >>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John MacCallum <john.maccallum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
Yes I have seen that done a few times. It gets well over 40 deg C here in Na
rromine, NSW in Summer so it would be a good feature!
It=99s always a race always to get to 7 or 8 thousand feet to cool off
!
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV10 41016
> On 25 Nov 2018, at 12:54 am, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I think you will find a fair number of -10 builders combined the overhead c
onsole with two NACA scoops behind the baggage compartment to feed air vents
overhead. It makes a big difference for me in Aridzona. I also installed ma
p lights next to the vents.
> Sent from my IBM-360 main frame
>
>
>> On Sat, Nov 24, 2018 at 3:25 AM John MacCallum wrote:
om>
>>
>> Hi David,
>> I installed a Overhead Console in my 10. I did so because I thought if I
ever wanted to put Air Conditioning in it would be handy to have it there a
lready. I haven=99t done so as yet but I did put Map Lights where the V
ents would go if I had have. In hind sight the Overhead console looks good a
nd it does give you somewhere for your Head Sets to hang off and also have t
he Cabin Lights installed there on. It really wasn=99t hard to instal
l and maybe took me about 8 or 10 hours including putting the lights in.
>> It=99s your plane in the final analysis so you do what you would li
ke.
>>
>> Cheers
>> John MacCallum
>> VH-DUU
>>
>> > On 22 Nov 2018, at 4:07 pm, David J. Fritzsche wrot
e:
>> >
m>
>> >
>> > This discussion is very interesting. I have been kicking around what t
o do with my interior, doors, inside, maybe overhead console, maybe not, hea
dliner, etc. It is about decision time if I am ever going to finish the pla
ne. I need to change some personal priorities. I appreciate the help some o
f you have provided when I had specific questions I directed at a few member
s. Always enjoy advice from those who have gone before.
>> >
>> > David
>> >
>> >> On 11/21/2018 11:41 AM, David Maib wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I=99m still on regular cylinders with the same light fabric from
Abby that Tim describes. I also have the flush door handles. No problems.
>> >>
>> >> David Maib
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:07 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> I wouldn't say it's a guaranteed problem. I'm still
>> >>> running my original 2005 gas cylinders, with fabric covered
>> >>> doors, and it hasn't been a problem yet. The doors are
>> >>> fully resting open right now, in fact.
>> >>>
>> >>> I also think that having at least some sort of covering
>> >>> will help a little to deaden sound. That said, a painted
>> >>> door will look just fine too. I wouldn't hesitate to put
>> >>> light fabric on again, myself.
>> >>> Tim
>> >>>
>> >>>> On 11/21/2018 12:21 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>> >>>> Ditto on the weight and higher pressure gas cylinder.
>> >>>>> On 11/21/2018 9:27 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
om>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> I painted the interior of my doors. I used an epoxy based single s
tage paint with a flattening agent. To add texture to the surface I came ba
ck and spayed with a 1-3psi setting on the paint gun. This "spattered" li
quid paint on to the surface. When it dries it looks slightly textured. I d
id this for all the interior surfaces that show. I also have the Aerosport h
eadliner and interior panels. I matched the paint to the kydex interior pan
els. It is very difficult to put the material on the door surface and get a
nice looking finish around the edges and windows. In addition, it adds wei
ght to the door, which will cause you to use the higher pressure gas struts.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> --------
>> >>>>> Bill
>> >>>>> WA0SYV
>> >>>>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Read this topic online here:
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485473#485473
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>> ---
>> >>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> >>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <n205en(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Seat Tee Handle Location |
Every RV-10 that I have seen has the front seat tee handle next to the
door. It seams that it would be much easier to access and operate if it
was inboard near the tunnel. What am I missing?
Larry Rosen
N205EN
Just installed the seats
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <n205en(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door interior |
Abby will still make RV-10 seat covers and carpet sets. The door and
headliner is just fabric, that Abby can supply, that you cut to fit and
use spray adhesive (like others have said) to put it on. She no longer
makes the upper interior panels.
Fabric covered doors with McMaster door seals is not quite as easy as
the Vans seals. You would need to hold the fabric off the perimeter
edge so seals to the painted fiberglass. Then you have to provide some
sort of finished edge on the fabric.
On 11/19/2018 9:29 PM, whodja wrote:
>
> Ive seen a few photos of doors with a fabric interior lining. Can anyone provide
a source to have them made or anyone have any patterns. Abby at Flightline
no longer makes them.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485330#485330
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil Corella <neilekins(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Tee Handle Location |
Aero sport make a extension that places the seat lever handle in the front. Makes
it easy to get to. I have one in my 10. There is another company that makes
one very similar cant think of their name. Thanks Neil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 25, 2018, at 12:08 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
>
>
> Every RV-10 that I have seen has the front seat tee handle next to the door.
It seams that it would be much easier to access and operate if it was inboard
near the tunnel. What am I missing?
>
> Larry Rosen
> N205EN
> Just installed the seats
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Tee Handle Location |
Larry,
I feel the same way and haven't seen any issues with -10s set up like that.
David
On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 11:14 AM Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> Every RV-10 that I have seen has the front seat tee handle next to the
> door. It seams that it would be much easier to access and operate if it
> was inboard near the tunnel. What am I missing?
>
> Larry Rosen
> N205EN
> Just installed the seats
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists. Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List
of Contributors (LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years,
the List seems at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your
typical magazine subscription!
Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the
Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your
Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have
helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Seat Tee Handle Location |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
The Aerosport handles work well. Easy to reach in front of the seat.
You will have difficulty if you reverse the seats to put the handle next
to the tunnel, because the lever to tilt the seat back is also on the
outside and nearly impossible to get to if it were next to the tunnel.
On 11/25/2018 10:19 AM, Neil Corella wrote:
>
> Aero sport make a extension that places the seat lever handle in the front. Makes
it easy to get to. I have one in my 10. There is another company that makes
one very similar cant think of their name. Thanks Neil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 25, 2018, at 12:08 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Every RV-10 that I have seen has the front seat tee handle next to the door.
It seams that it would be much easier to access and operate if it was inboard
near the tunnel. What am I missing?
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> N205EN
>> Just installed the seats
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Seat Tee Handle Location |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I know a guy that has built several -10's and he always swaps the seats and puts
the T handles next to the tunnel. If you do not have a center console, it works
just fine and they're easier to get to. I started out (2007) with the very
early levers similar to the Aerosport levers. They worked great, but were made
out of lighter metal than needed and eventually broke. I was going to replace
them with similar ones from IflyRV10.com, but the mounting holes were in a different
location and I did not want to drill more holes in the seat. They also
offered a T-Handle extension that simply raises the T-Handle about 2 or 3 inches
higher, so I opted for that. Works great. If I was building today, I'd definitely
install the Aerosport levers.
Bottom line, no problems and easier access with the T-Handle next to the tunnel,
as long as you don't have a center console mounted on the tunnel.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485717#485717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
I would recommend just finishing/paint the doors. Dont use a flat paint for this.
Flat paint will hold the dirt and stain more then a semi-gloss. Use a nice
2 part paint if possible. Let the finish coat dry about 90% and then if using
a spray gun and air compressor turn the air way down 2-5lbs and put a nice spatter/speckle
finish coat on. This makes a real nice, very light texture finish
and will also clean up very easy.
I have had many people ask what I put on my doors, thinking it was fabric, plastic
or a vinyl/leather.
FWIW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: November 25, 2018 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door interior
Abby will still make RV-10 seat covers and carpet sets. The door and headliner
is just fabric, that Abby can supply, that you cut to fit and use spray adhesive
(like others have said) to put it on. She no longer makes the upper interior
panels.
Fabric covered doors with McMaster door seals is not quite as easy as the Vans
seals. You would need to hold the fabric off the perimeter edge so seals to the
painted fiberglass. Then you have to provide some sort of finished edge on
the fabric.
On 11/19/2018 9:29 PM, whodja wrote:
>
> Ive seen a few photos of doors with a fabric interior lining. Can anyone provide
a source to have them made or anyone have any patterns. Abby at Flightline
no longer makes them.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=485330#485330
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Tee Handle Location |
I grab the center metal support with my inboard hand and work the t-handle
with the outboard hand. Moving the T-Handle to the inside does not allow
the use of the support to pull forward.
Jim C
On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 2:26 PM David Carr wrote:
> Larry,
>
> I feel the same way and haven't seen any issues with -10s set up like that.
>
> David
>
> On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 11:14 AM Larry Rosen wrote:
>
>>
>> Every RV-10 that I have seen has the front seat tee handle next to the
>> door. It seams that it would be much easier to access and operate if it
>> was inboard near the tunnel. What am I missing?
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> N205EN
>> Just installed the seats
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Tee Handle Location |
That=99s how I do it too, Jim. The hand =9Cgrab=9D opening
on each side of the glare shield worked fine on the airplanes I flew with t
he T-handles moved inboard.
David Maib
> On Nov 26, 2018, at 9:34 AM, Jim Combs wrote:
>
> I grab the center metal support with my inboard hand and work the t-handle
with the outboard hand. Moving the T-Handle to the inside does not allow t
he use of the support to pull forward.
>
> Jim C
>
>
>> On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 2:26 PM David Carr wrote:
>> Larry,
>>
>> I feel the same way and haven't seen any issues with -10s set up like tha
t.
>>
>> David
>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 11:14 AM Larry Rosen wrote:
>>>
>>> Every RV-10 that I have seen has the front seat tee handle next to the
>>> door. It seams that it would be much easier to access and operate if it
>>> was inboard near the tunnel. What am I missing?
>>>
>>> Larry Rosen
>>> N205EN
>>> Just installed the seats
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> br> fts!)
>>> r> > e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's My Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
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the custom applications that power this List Service such as the List
Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
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List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
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581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a Two days left for this year's List Fund Raiser! If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
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Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
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Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
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581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again
- 55! :-) But it also means that it's that last official day of the Matronics
Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about picking up one of those
really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in
support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running
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The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
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Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin heat valve |
Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there was some discussion
of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted hot air from the
muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly wade the heat problem
less. Anyone remember the unit?
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will not
change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert wrote:
>
>
> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there
was some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted
hot air from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly
wade the heat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wheel fairing build up |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
The fairings from S Africa are exceptional! Perfect fit! Did you add the additional
2 layers as called for in the plans for the Vans fairing? The quality appears
to be good enough but any feedback is appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486166#486166
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or stainles
s doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow is allowed t
o flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are closed at the f
irewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
What do the stainless doors do?
1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than aluminum.
So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as quickly.
2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like a baffl
e to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat savings comes i
n. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door, it=99s redir
ected away from the cracked opening and most of it goes out the bottom of th
e tunnel.
Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that have ex
perienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One could have turn
ed out very badly but fortunately didn=99t. Installing the doors made
a dramatic difference on both of those airplanes.
It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front of the f
irewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer taxi=99
s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the heat problems in
side the tunnel.
When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick bead of f
irewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down about 3/4 of t
he way so they=99re not tight against the firewall. Then wait for th
e sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors down the rest of the wa
y. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot doors and the firewall and b
reaks up the thermal bridge between the doors and firewall. Thus your fire
wall doesn=99t act like a heatsink for your hot doors.
Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from ThermoTec o
n the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive backed, easy to cut
to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the surface clean. I used it to
line my lower cowling too. I=99m sure there are other good products o
ut there, but it=99s just what I used because the local Auto Zones car
ried it.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
>
> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will not c
hange anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>
>
>
>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert wrote:
>>
>>
>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there was s
ome discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted hot air f
rom the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly wade the hea
t problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>> Albert Gardner
>> RV-10 N991RV
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
Phil,
Can you give a link to =9CSS doors=9D? Plane Innovation
website shows a tribox similar to Van=99s
Thanks.
Rob
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:38 AM, Phillip Perry
wrote:
>
> Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or
stainless doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow
is allowed to flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are
closed at the firewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
>
> What do the stainless doors do?
> 1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than
aluminum. So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as
quickly.
>
> 2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like a
baffle to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat
savings comes in. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door,
it=99s redirected away from the cracked opening and most of it
goes out the bottom of the tunnel.
>
> Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
>
> I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that
have experienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One
could have turned out very badly but fortunately didn=99t.
Installing the doors made a dramatic difference on both of those
airplanes.
>
> It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front
of the firewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer
taxi=99s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the
heat problems inside the tunnel.
>
> When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick
bead of firewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down
about 3/4 of the way so they=99re not tight against the firewall.
Then wait for the sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors
down the rest of the way. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot
doors and the firewall and breaks up the thermal bridge between the
doors and firewall. Thus your firewall doesn=99t act like a
heatsink for your hot doors.
>
> Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from
ThermoTec on the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive
backed, easy to cut to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the
surface clean. I used it to line my lower cowling too. I=99m
sure there are other good products out there, but it=99s just what
I used because the local Auto Zones carried it.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj > wrote:
>
>>
>> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will
not change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert > wrote:
>>>
>
>>>
>>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there
was some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted
hot air from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly
wade the heat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>>> Albert Gardner
>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
That=99s it. It looks similar but is made of stainless.
http://www.planeinnovations.com/store/p1/Heater_Bypass_Valve.html
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 7:51 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
> Phil,
>
> Can you give a link to =9CSS doors=9D? Plane Innovation websi
te shows a tribox similar to Van=99s
>
> Thanks.
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:38 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>> Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or stain
less doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow is allowe
d to flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are closed at th
e firewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
>>
>> What do the stainless doors do?
>> 1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than alumin
um. So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as quickly.
>>
>> 2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like a ba
ffle to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat savings come
s in. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door, it=99s re
directed away from the cracked opening and most of it goes out the bottom of
the tunnel.
>>
>> Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
>>
>> I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that have
experienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One could have t
urned out very badly but fortunately didn=99t. Installing the doors m
ade a dramatic difference on both of those airplanes.
>>
>> It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front of t
he firewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer taxi
=99s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the heat problems
inside the tunnel.
>>
>> When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick bead o
f firewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down about 3/4 o
f the way so they=99re not tight against the firewall. Then wait for
the sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors down the rest of the
way. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot doors and the firewall a
nd breaks up the thermal bridge between the doors and firewall. Thus your f
irewall doesn=99t act like a heatsink for your hot doors.
>>
>> Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from ThermoTe
c on the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive backed, easy to c
ut to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the surface clean. I used it t
o line my lower cowling too. I=99m sure there are other good products
out there, but it=99s just what I used because the local Auto Zones c
arried it.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will not
change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there was
some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted hot air
from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly wade the h
eat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>>>> Albert Gardner
>>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
What I did.
I installed a piece Koolmat between the cabin heat boxes and the firewall (h
oles cut out for the boxes): https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appag
es/koolmat.php. I extended the mat over the top of the boxes, then down and o
ver the front of the boxes. My thinking:
- No matter what box you use, if you hard mount it to the firewall you will p
rovide a very good heat transfer path to the tunnel (flapper open or shut).
The mat between the box and the firewall mitigates this problem.
- During the summer you are still pumping huge amounts of heated air toward t
he cabin boxes. The hot air bounces off the closed flapper and right back a
t the engine (in the area of the mechanical fuel pump). The Koolmat draped o
ver the front of the boxes redirects this heated air down to the cowl exit.
One other mod was to put a 3/4=9D orifice in each heat muff SCAT hose b
affle flange. On the coldest day I was only using a fraction of the heat th
at the system provides, so why have all that air taken away from engine cool
ing if not needed? I still only crack open the aft heat on cold days.
Never had a tunnel heat problem.
Carl
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
> Phil,
>
> Can you give a link to =9CSS doors=9D? Plane Innovation websi
te shows a tribox similar to Van=99s
>
> Thanks.
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:38 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>>
>> Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or stain
less doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow is allowe
d to flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are closed at th
e firewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
>>
>> What do the stainless doors do?
>> 1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than alumin
um. So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as quickly.
>>
>> 2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like a ba
ffle to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat savings come
s in. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door, it=99s re
directed away from the cracked opening and most of it goes out the bottom of
the tunnel.
>>
>> Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
>>
>> I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that have
experienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One could have t
urned out very badly but fortunately didn=99t. Installing the doors m
ade a dramatic difference on both of those airplanes.
>>
>> It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front of t
he firewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer taxi
=99s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the heat problems
inside the tunnel.
>>
>> When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick bead o
f firewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down about 3/4 o
f the way so they=99re not tight against the firewall. Then wait for
the sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors down the rest of the
way. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot doors and the firewall a
nd breaks up the thermal bridge between the doors and firewall. Thus your f
irewall doesn=99t act like a heatsink for your hot doors.
>>
>> Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from ThermoTe
c on the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive backed, easy to c
ut to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the surface clean. I used it t
o line my lower cowling too. I=99m sure there are other good products
out there, but it=99s just what I used because the local Auto Zones c
arried it.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will not
change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there was
some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted hot air
from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly wade the h
eat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>>>> Albert Gardner
>>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doc <docclv(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Hot center channel |
Our center channel would get so hot you didn't want to leave your hand
on it. I read a report of vapor locking in the fuel lines in the center
channel when we were building so, we put a piece of fire wall insulation
over the fuel lines and sealed the heat boxes with RTV silicone also to
try to keep any air flow out. Center channel was still "hot". Put fire
wall insulation from Wicks on fire wall. Center channel is only "warm"
now even in 90 plus degree weather. I am convinced the fire wall
insulation is the major thing to do to keep the center channel cool.
However, I would also recommend insulating the center channel, etc. You
also have to put insulation "mats" on each side of the engine cowling or
the eghaust heat will warp the cowling.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Hot center channel |
After reading the comments I'm wondering about making a removable
restrictor/air dam in front on the scat tube. Normally need very little heat
in Arizona although last winter in Missouri max heat was needed on very cold
days. I guess one could make a shutter like dam that could be operated from
the cockpit as opposed to having to remove the top cowl. I installed a
sliding restrictor to block heat on my side in the cabin since my wife
usually wants a lot more heat than I do.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hot center channel |
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
In mild climates really only heat is required to the front and not at all to the
rear. One heat muff to supply the front only cuts the heat to the firewall and
so the tunnel by half. (the firewall vent for the rear can be permanently sealed
off and the air out of the unused heat muff can be dumped down, or that
heat muff can be removed) For the front Using a T fitting incorporating a butterfly
valve (available from Spruce) the heater air from the heat muff can be diverted
via a scat down toward the bottom cowl instead of blasting away at the
firewall all the time the heater is not required. (which of course includes Summer)
Only two push pull controls are still required, one to control the T fitting
and one at the firewall valve. Using this solution the firewall valve really
only needs to be full open, heater on, or fully closed heater off, this
reduces the likely introduction of unwanted fumes entering the cabin with a partly
opened firewall valve, heat is regulated via the T fitting out of the heat
muff, the heated air is still full flowing through the heat muff so no abnormal
build up of heat by restriction. Just my solution which has kept the tunnel
cool. Cheeers from Western Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486190#486190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hot center channel |
Here is a possibility.
> On Dec 9, 2018, at 12:53 AM, Albert wrote:
>
>
> After reading the comments I'm wondering about making a removable
> restrictor/air dam in front on the scat tube. Normally need very
little heat
> in Arizona although last winter in Missouri max heat was needed on
very cold
> days. I guess one could make a shutter like dam that could be operated
from
> the cockpit as opposed to having to remove the top cowl. I installed a
> sliding restrictor to block heat on my side in the cabin since my wife
> usually wants a lot more heat than I do.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hot center channel |
I just use aluminum tape and cover about 1/3 of the inlet in the baffle.
Its easy to remove when you want full flow.
Tim
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 11:53 PM, Albert wrote:
>
>
> After reading the comments I'm wondering about making a removable
> restrictor/air dam in front on the scat tube. Normally need very little heat
> in Arizona although last winter in Missouri max heat was needed on very cold
> days. I guess one could make a shutter like dam that could be operated from
> the cockpit as opposed to having to remove the top cowl. I installed a
> sliding restrictor to block heat on my side in the cabin since my wife
> usually wants a lot more heat than I do.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Philips" <jack(at)bedfordlandings.com> |
After 12 years of off-and-on work on my RV-10 project, I've reached the
point where it is time to think about a paint scheme. It seems I recall
that there are some software packages around that will let you experiment
with various paint schemes on an RV-10 3-view. Can anyone recommend such a
program?
Jack Phillips
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
Fuselage Done, Wings Done, Engine Installed, finishing up the cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2018 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
The 2018 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of
weeks ago and it's time that I published this year's List of Contributors.
It is the people on this list that directly make these Email Lists and Forums
possible! Their generous Contributions keep the servers and Internet connection
up and running!
You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same
time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
And finally, I'm proud to present The 2018 Fund Raiser List of Contributors:
http://www.matronics.com/loc
Thank you again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List & Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curtis Groote <cgroote1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Salt Lake City airports |
This next month Ill be flying into Salt Lake City, arriving from and departing
to the east. Purpose is to eat at In-N-Out as well as go downtown. Any suggestions
on an airport to use?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Salt Lake City airports |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I don't recall the locations of the IN and Out burger shops. While SLC
is closest to downtown, Bountiful (BTF) is much more GA friendly, has
both self serve 100LL and 91 octane Mogas, as well as they can get Hertz
car for you on field. U42 is a distance from downtown.
For either SLC or BTF you will need Class B clearance. They are pretty
good about working you in. Rwy 17/35 is normal GA at SLC. I believe
there are still a couple RV-10s based at BTF.
On 1/15/2019 8:56 AM, Curtis Groote wrote:
>
> This next month Ill be flying into Salt Lake City, arriving from and departing
to the east. Purpose is to eat at In-N-Out as well as go downtown. Any suggestions
on an airport to use?
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salt Lake City airports |
Sean Strasburg and Scott Schmidt should be able to help with all the local knowledge
you could ask for.
Theyre both local and flying in and out of there regularly.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 15, 2019, at 2:12 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> I don't recall the locations of the IN and Out burger shops. While SLC is closest
to downtown, Bountiful (BTF) is much more GA friendly, has both self serve
100LL and 91 octane Mogas, as well as they can get Hertz car for you on field.
U42 is a distance from downtown.
> For either SLC or BTF you will need Class B clearance. They are pretty good about
working you in. Rwy 17/35 is normal GA at SLC. I believe there are still
a couple RV-10s based at BTF.
>
>> On 1/15/2019 8:56 AM, Curtis Groote wrote:
>> This next month Ill be flying into Salt Lake City, arriving from and departing
to the east. Purpose is to eat at In-N-Out as well as go downtown. Any suggestions
on an airport to use?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Salt Lake City airports |
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
I've used South Valley Regional; U42; in the past. Nothing but good
words about them. There's an In-n-Out right at the south end of the
field. Rental and crew cars were readily available. About 13ish mile
drive to downtown SLC.
Make SURE you hit R&R BBQ in downtown SLC ... best BBQ west of Texas.
--Ron
On 1/15/19 2:12 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I don't recall the locations of the IN and Out burger shops. While SLC
> is closest to downtown, Bountiful (BTF) is much more GA friendly, has
> both self serve 100LL and 91 octane Mogas, as well as they can get Hertz
> car for you on field. U42 is a distance from downtown.
> For either SLC or BTF you will need Class B clearance. They are pretty
> good about working you in. Rwy 17/35 is normal GA at SLC. I believe
> there are still a couple RV-10s based at BTF.
>
> On 1/15/2019 8:56 AM, Curtis Groote wrote:
>>
>> This next month Ill be flying into Salt Lake City, arriving from and
>> departing to the east. Purpose is to eat at In-N-Out as well as go
>> downtown. Any suggestions on an airport to use?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salt Lake City airports |
I've flown directly into SLC a couple of times, and found them perfectly accommodating
for GA. Never been refused entry into Class B, but I always do those
flights with a VFR flight plan specifying a destination airport in the class B
so maybe that helps since they're ready and expecting you...
> On 2019-Jan-15, at 8:56 AM, Curtis Groote wrote:
>
>
> This next month Ill be flying into Salt Lake City, arriving from and departing
to the east. Purpose is to eat at In-N-Out as well as go downtown. Any suggestions
on an airport to use?
>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isaac Schantz <isaac.schantz(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salt Lake City airports |
I'm 10 minutes from South Valley Regioinal (U42) and have been flying out
of there as a student pilot for 1 1/2 years and I echo Ron Walker's
comments. If you have an RV-10, would love to see it.
Isaac Schantz
RV-10 Builder 41847
60% complete (building for just less than 1 year)
On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 2:36 PM Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> I've flown directly into SLC a couple of times, and found them perfectly
> accommodating for GA. Never been refused entry into Class B, but I alway
s
> do those flights with a VFR flight plan specifying a destination airport
in
> the class B so maybe that helps since they're ready and expecting you...
>
>
> > On 2019-Jan-15, at 8:56 AM, Curtis Groote wrote:
> >
> >
> > This next month I=99ll be flying into Salt Lake City, arriving fr
om and
> departing to the east. Purpose is to eat at In-N-Out as well as go
> downtown. Any suggestions on an airport to use?
> >
>
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carr <junk(at)dcarr.org> |
| Subject: | Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
Hi all,
Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for making
the installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I can
find very little online about it.
FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
| From: | Ron Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
I installed the stock valve as per the plans - not a single change. It
does the job, never saw a need to modify it.
It's a bit of a nuisance to have to remove the handle every time you
want the tunnel cover removed, but what can ya do, it's only once a year.
--Ron
On 1/15/19 7:13 PM, David Carr wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for
> making the installation look more polished or operate as well as
> possible? I can find very little online about it.
>
> FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
>
> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
Great question. I installed the Andair Valve in another plane, and, it
works sweetly. I was hoping to go "stock" on the -10 project. Hoping more
than just Mr. Walker speaketh up.
Bruce
40018
On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 5:30 PM David Carr wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for making
> the installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I can
> find very little online about it.
>
> FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
>
> Thanks!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <bob(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
Just about every RV-10 that I=92m aware of, including mine has gone with an
Andair valve. Mine has been flying for over six years, so I haven=92t re
ally bothered to keep up with all the factory parts quality control issues.
Hopefully, that vendor has fixed their issues over the years. I don=92
t have any data, pro or con.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Bruce Breckenridge
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2019 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Anybody use stock fuel valve?
Great question. I installed the Andair Valve in another plane, and, it wor
ks sweetly. I was hoping to go "stock" on the -10 project. Hoping more th
an just Mr. Walker speaketh up.
Bruce
40018
On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 5:30 PM David Carr > wrote:
Hi all,
Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for making t
he installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I can f
ind very little online about it.
FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
I have the stock valve in my RV-6, and it is doing fine after 18 maintenance
free years.
I installed the stock valve in the RV-10 I'm finishing and have no qualms
about it. The installation is very simple - just follow the plans.
Kyle Boatright
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Walker
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2019 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Anybody use stock fuel valve?
I installed the stock valve as per the plans - not a single change. It
does the job, never saw a need to modify it.
It's a bit of a nuisance to have to remove the handle every time you
want the tunnel cover removed, but what can ya do, it's only once a year.
--Ron
On 1/15/19 7:13 PM, David Carr wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for making
> the installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I can
> find very little online about it.
>
> FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
>
> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Stock valve in mine. Kit purchase circa 2008, just in time to get the slightly
modified valve with the new handle (aluminum pointer, lift-to-turn). The older
brass handle was just plain ugly IMHO. No problems to date.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487010#487010
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Salt Lake City airports |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
If you try a Big H burger from Hires up on 7th east in SLC, youll throw rocks at
In and put.
Been into all three airports in the SLC valley with my RV and theyre all nicely
accommodating. BOuntiful definitely has the cheapest gas.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487011#487011
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Salt Lake City airports |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
If you try a Big H burger from Hires up on 7th east in SLC, youll throw rocks at
In and put.
Been into all three airports in the SLC valley with my RV and theyre all nicely
accommodating. BOuntiful definitely has the cheapest gas.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487012#487012
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Specketer <gspecketer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
I installed the stock valve 11 years ago and have had no problems. If you
push down on the valve during loading it can make it move hard. Just pull
up on the handle and release and your good to go.
Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David Carr <junk@dc
arr.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2019 8:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Anybody use stock fuel valve?
Hi all,
Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for making t
he installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I can f
ind very little online about it.
FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe arvai <arvaijw(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
I use the stock valve in my RV-10. 2.5 yrs and no issues.
Joe
On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 8:31 PM David Carr wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for making
> the installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I can
> find very little online about it.
>
> FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
>
> Thanks!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DejaVu <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
No issues in 10 years.
Anh
> On Jan 16, 2019, at 10:27 AM, Joe arvai wrote:
>
> I use the stock valve in my RV-10. 2.5 yrs and no issues.
>
> Joe
>
>> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 8:31 PM David Carr wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for making
the installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I can f
ind very little online about it.
>>
>> FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
>>
>> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
8 years, 1150 hrs, no issues. Stock valve, unpainted, per plans. I lightly
coat the nylon w/ fuel lube every few years if it gets hard to turn.
Same experience with my RV-6A for 1100 hrs.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 16, 2019, at 4:31 PM, DejaVu wrote:
>
> No issues in 10 years.
> Anh
>
>
>
>> On Jan 16, 2019, at 10:27 AM, Joe arvai wrote:
>>
>> I use the stock valve in my RV-10. 2.5 yrs and no issues.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 8:31 PM David Carr wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for makin
g the installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I can
find very little online about it.
>>>
>>> FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
I used the stock fuel selector valve. First flight in 2010, 1000+ hours no
issues.
Jim C (N312F)
On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 11:52 PM Bob Leffler wrote:
> Just about every RV-10 that I=99m aware of, including mine has gone
with an
> Andair valve. Mine has been flying for over six years, so I haven
=99t
> really bothered to keep up with all the factory parts quality control
> issues. Hopefully, that vendor has fixed their issues over the years.
I
> don=99t have any data, pro or con.
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Bruce
> Breckenridge
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 15, 2019 11:06 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Anybody use stock fuel valve?
>
> Great question. I installed the Andair Valve in another plane, and, it
> works sweetly. I was hoping to go "stock" on the -10 project. Hoping mo
re
> than just Mr. Walker speaketh up.
>
> Bruce
> 40018
>
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 5:30 PM David Carr wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for makin
g
>> the installation look more polished or operate as well as possible? I c
an
>> find very little online about it.
>>
>> FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
My kit came with the Andair. Much nicer than the stock valve in my 6A. I
have a stock -10 valve for sale :-)
On Wed, Jan 16, 2019 at 6:52 PM Jim Combs wrote:
> I used the stock fuel selector valve. First flight in 2010, 1000+ hours
> no issues.
>
> Jim C (N312F)
>
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 11:52 PM Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>> Just about every RV-10 that I=99m aware of, including mine has gon
e with an
>> Andair valve. Mine has been flying for over six years, so I haven
=99t
>> really bothered to keep up with all the factory parts quality control
>> issues. Hopefully, that vendor has fixed their issues over the years.
I
>> don=99t have any data, pro or con.
>>
>> Get Outlook for iOS
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Bruce
>> Breckenridge
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 15, 2019 11:06 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Anybody use stock fuel valve?
>>
>> Great question. I installed the Andair Valve in another plane, and, it
>> works sweetly. I was hoping to go "stock" on the -10 project. Hoping m
ore
>> than just Mr. Walker speaketh up.
>>
>> Bruce
>> 40018
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 5:30 PM David Carr wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Has anyone on this list fitted the stock fuel valve? Any tips for
>>> making the installation look more polished or operate as well as possib
le?
>>> I can find very little online about it.
>>>
>>> FYI---not really interested in going the Andair valve option.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Relocating red cube |
Hi everyone.
I've had ongoing fuel pressure fluctuation issues from time to time and am trying
to improve every piece of the puzzle to see if I can make them go away.
One of the things I'm doing is relocating my red cube fuel flow transducer from
the tunnel (as per plans) to the positive pressure side of the fuel pump (which
a lot of people do). According to the FT-60 red cube documentation which I
recently stumbled across (https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/FT-60-Info-Rev-F.pdf)
they come right out and say "If the aircraft has a fuel pump(s),
the flow transducer MUST be installed downstream of the last fuel pump. Installing
the transducer upstream of the fuel pump(s) can cause vapor lock and
jumpy/inaccurate readings." That sentence definitely conflicts with the plans
for putting it in the tunnel, and makes me hopeful that this will make a difference
in taming my pressure fluctuations (not to mention should also help the
erroneous readings it gives when the electric boost pump is on).
But I'm struggling a bit with where exactly to put it. The two options for the
positive pressure side of the fuel pump mean either between the engine pump and
servo, or between the servo and spider. Most people I've heard who have moved
it have placed it between the servo and spider.
However, in the installation instructions for Electronics International's FP-5
(https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/FP-5L-II.pdf) which uses the red cube,
they suggest mounting locations. Applicable to my fuel injected engine without
a fuel return line from the servo, they say to refer to the drawings on page
17 or 18, both of which place the red cube between the fuel pump and servo.
Their drawings placing the cube between the servo and spider are marked as being
only applicable on aircraft with a fuel return line from the fuel servo.
Has this been noticed before and I'm just late to the party? Or do most people
who have been relocating the cube also have a fuel return line, which is why
it's been common to mount between the servo and spider? Does anyone know what
the reason might be to not install the red cube between the servo and spider
on an installation without a fuel return line from the servo?
Thanks!
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Dan,
I used the location between the mechanical pump and the servo on a
Mooney I had before the RV, because that was where the STC instructions
said to put it. On my RV-10, I put it between the servo and the spider,
near the right front corner of the oil sump, before the line goes up to
the spider. Both locations delivered stable readings. I'd say
convenience to get relatively straight hose runs in and out of the cube
is the main point.
Kelly
On 1/20/2019 2:54 AM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> I've had ongoing fuel pressure fluctuation issues from time to time and am trying
to improve every piece of the puzzle to see if I can make them go away.
>
> One of the things I'm doing is relocating my red cube fuel flow transducer from
the tunnel (as per plans) to the positive pressure side of the fuel pump (which
a lot of people do). According to the FT-60 red cube documentation which
I recently stumbled across (https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/FT-60-Info-Rev-F.pdf)
they come right out and say "If the aircraft has a fuel pump(s),
the flow transducer MUST be installed downstream of the last fuel pump.
Installing the transducer upstream of the fuel pump(s) can cause vapor lock and
jumpy/inaccurate readings." That sentence definitely conflicts with the plans
for putting it in the tunnel, and makes me hopeful that this will make a difference
in taming my pressure fluctuations (not to mention should also help
the erroneous readings it gives when the electric boost pump is on).
>
> But I'm struggling a bit with where exactly to put it. The two options for the
positive pressure side of the fuel pump mean either between the engine pump
and servo, or between the servo and spider. Most people I've heard who have
moved it have placed it between the servo and spider.
>
> However, in the installation instructions for Electronics International's FP-5
(https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/FP-5L-II.pdf) which uses the red cube,
they suggest mounting locations. Applicable to my fuel injected engine without
a fuel return line from the servo, they say to refer to the drawings on page
17 or 18, both of which place the red cube between the fuel pump and servo.
Their drawings placing the cube between the servo and spider are marked as being
only applicable on aircraft with a fuel return line from the fuel servo.
>
> Has this been noticed before and I'm just late to the party? Or do most people
who have been relocating the cube also have a fuel return line, which is why
it's been common to mount between the servo and spider? Does anyone know what
the reason might be to not install the red cube between the servo and spider
on an installation without a fuel return line from the servo?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Jones <rjones560xl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
I have an Airflow Performance FM300 on the front of a Barrett Cold Air Induc
tion manifold. Putting the Red Cube after the fuel Servo was a non starter f
or me because there was not enough room after the Servo to mount it without t
ight turns before and after the Red Cube. I finally mounted it the left side
on the fuel line run from the engine driven fuel pump to the Servo. This ga
ve me a fairly straight run before and after. I used Axel clamps to support t
he fuel lines at the front and back of the oil pan. The fuel lines were fire
sleeved of course and a got about 12 inches of fire sleeve to go over the R
ed Cube. I punched a hole in the sleeve for the wires and used hose clamps t
o secure the ends after everything was tightened down. You can see that I ha
d to fold it up to secure it.
I can=99t say how well this works because I am still working on wiring
avionics.
Robert Jones
> On Jan 20, 2019, at 01:54, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> I've had ongoing fuel pressure fluctuation issues from time to time and am
trying to improve every piece of the puzzle to see if I can make them go aw
ay.
>
> One of the things I'm doing is relocating my red cube fuel flow transducer
from the tunnel (as per plans) to the positive pressure side of the fuel pu
mp (which a lot of people do). According to the FT-60 red cube documentatio
n which I recently stumbled across (https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/20
18/03/FT-60-Info-Rev-F.pdf) they come right out and say "If the aircraft has
a fuel pump(s), the flow transducer MUST be installed downstream of the las
t fuel pump. Installing the transducer upstream of the fuel pump(s) can cau
se vapor lock and jumpy/inaccurate readings." That sentence definitely conf
licts with the plans for putting it in the tunnel, and makes me hopeful that
this will make a difference in taming my pressure fluctuations (not to ment
ion should also help the erroneous readings it gives when the electric boost
pump is on).
>
> But I'm struggling a bit with where exactly to put it. The two options fo
r the positive pressure side of the fuel pump mean either between the engine
pump and servo, or between the servo and spider. Most people I've heard wh
o have moved it have placed it between the servo and spider.
>
> However, in the installation instructions for Electronics International's
FP-5 (https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/FP-5L-II.pdf) which uses the red
cube, they suggest mounting locations. Applicable to my fuel injected engi
ne without a fuel return line from the servo, they say to refer to the drawi
ngs on page 17 or 18, both of which place the red cube between the fuel pump
and servo. Their drawings placing the cube between the servo and spider ar
e marked as being only applicable on aircraft with a fuel return line from t
he fuel servo.
>
> Has this been noticed before and I'm just late to the party? Or do most p
eople who have been relocating the cube also have a fuel return line, which i
s why it's been common to mount between the servo and spider? Does anyone k
now what the reason might be to not install the red cube between the servo a
nd spider on an installation without a fuel return line from the servo?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
| From: | Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net> |
I suspended my FP-5 in the line between the fuel servo and flow divider
IAW the drawing on page 20 of the FT-5 manual. I wrapped the transducer
with fire sleeve per the instructions. It has worked well in this
location for 4 years and over four hundred hours. Several other RV's
have done the same thing. I believe Airflow Performance recommended
this location to me.
This location eliminated the surging fuel flow readings I used to see.
My setup: RV-10, IO-540 C4B5, standard installation with stock Van's
fuel selector, stock RV-10 airflow performance boost pump in the tunnel,
mechanical fuel pump on the engine. Bendix fuel injection system. No
fuel return line.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
CFI, A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 1000 hrs
Dan Charrois wrote on 1/20/2019 4:54 AM:
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> I've had ongoing fuel pressure fluctuation issues from time to time and am trying
to improve every piece of the puzzle to see if I can make them go away.
>
> One of the things I'm doing is relocating my red cube fuel flow transducer from
the tunnel (as per plans) to the positive pressure side of the fuel pump (which
a lot of people do). According to the FT-60 red cube documentation which
I recently stumbled across (https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/FT-60-Info-Rev-F.pdf)
they come right out and say "If the aircraft has a fuel pump(s),
the flow transducer MUST be installed downstream of the last fuel pump.
Installing the transducer upstream of the fuel pump(s) can cause vapor lock and
jumpy/inaccurate readings." That sentence definitely conflicts with the plans
for putting it in the tunnel, and makes me hopeful that this will make a difference
in taming my pressure fluctuations (not to mention should also help
the erroneous readings it gives when the electric boost pump is on).
>
> But I'm struggling a bit with where exactly to put it. The two options for the
positive pressure side of the fuel pump mean either between the engine pump
and servo, or between the servo and spider. Most people I've heard who have
moved it have placed it between the servo and spider.
>
> However, in the installation instructions for Electronics International's FP-5
(https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/FP-5L-II.pdf) which uses the red cube,
they suggest mounting locations. Applicable to my fuel injected engine without
a fuel return line from the servo, they say to refer to the drawings on page
17 or 18, both of which place the red cube between the fuel pump and servo.
Their drawings placing the cube between the servo and spider are marked as being
only applicable on aircraft with a fuel return line from the fuel servo.
>
> Has this been noticed before and I'm just late to the party? Or do most people
who have been relocating the cube also have a fuel return line, which is why
it's been common to mount between the servo and spider? Does anyone know what
the reason might be to not install the red cube between the servo and spider
on an installation without a fuel return line from the servo?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
Whatever you do, use flexible fire sleeve hose after transducer. DO NOT use ridged
aluminum fuel line after the transducer or before the spider like under
the fuel selector.
Suspend the transducer with minimal support for maximum flexibility
At least one -10 had engine failure due to cracked fuel line because of this.
It ended ok with emergency landing at an airport out of IFR. Lots of vibration
down there.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
> On Jan 20, 2019, at 7:53 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> I suspended my FP-5 in the line between the fuel servo and flow divider IAW the
drawing on page 20 of the FT-5 manual. I wrapped the transducer with fire
sleeve per the instructions. It has worked well in this location for 4 years
and over four hundred hours. Several other RV's have done the same thing. I believe
Airflow Performance recommended this location to me.
>
> This location eliminated the surging fuel flow readings I used to see.
>
> My setup: RV-10, IO-540 C4B5, standard installation with stock Van's fuel selector,
stock RV-10 airflow performance boost pump in the tunnel, mechanical fuel
pump on the engine. Bendix fuel injection system. No fuel return line.
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> CFI, A&P
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 1000 hrs
>
> Dan Charrois wrote on 1/20/2019 4:54 AM:
>>
>> Hi everyone.
>>
>> I've had ongoing fuel pressure fluctuation issues from time to time and am trying
to improve every piece of the puzzle to see if I can make them go away.
>>
>> One of the things I'm doing is relocating my red cube fuel flow transducer from
the tunnel (as per plans) to the positive pressure side of the fuel pump (which
a lot of people do). According to the FT-60 red cube documentation which
I recently stumbled across (https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/FT-60-Info-Rev-F.pdf)
they come right out and say "If the aircraft has a fuel pump(s),
the flow transducer MUST be installed downstream of the last fuel pump.
Installing the transducer upstream of the fuel pump(s) can cause vapor lock
and jumpy/inaccurate readings." That sentence definitely conflicts with the plans
for putting it in the tunnel, and makes me hopeful that this will make a
difference in taming my pressure fluctuations (not to mention should also help
the erroneous readings it gives when the electric boost pump is on).
>>
>> But I'm struggling a bit with where exactly to put it. The two options for
the positive pressure side of the fuel pump mean either between the engine pump
and servo, or between the servo and spider. Most people I've heard who have
moved it have placed it between the servo and spider.
>>
>> However, in the installation instructions for Electronics International's FP-5
(https://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/FP-5L-II.pdf) which uses the red cube,
they suggest mounting locations. Applicable to my fuel injected engine without
a fuel return line from the servo, they say to refer to the drawings on page
17 or 18, both of which place the red cube between the fuel pump and servo.
Their drawings placing the cube between the servo and spider are marked as
being only applicable on aircraft with a fuel return line from the fuel servo.
>>
>> Has this been noticed before and I'm just late to the party? Or do most people
who have been relocating the cube also have a fuel return line, which is why
it's been common to mount between the servo and spider? Does anyone know what
the reason might be to not install the red cube between the servo and spider
on an installation without a fuel return line from the servo?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Dan
>> ---
>> Dan Charrois
>> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
>> Phone: 780-961-2213
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
What you say is correct, but should be clarified. If the line is on or
connects to the engine it must be hose due to the vibration. If in the
tunnel, rigid line is okay.
There are two types of hose that can be used. Standard fuel line with
external fire sleeve is okay. When I got my kit, Vans supplied standard
hose without fire sleeve. It needed to have fire sleeve added. Integral
fire sleeve hose with teflon core is nicer and longer lasting. It is
more flexible, smaller external diameter and does not deteriorate from
heat or age. Fuel lines are best fabricated by professional hose shops.
It may cost you 50 or 100 more, but will eliminate one source of
substantial hazard. While as an A&P I have experience fabricating hoses,
given the time it takes, the need for tooling and proper pressure
testing, I buy my fuel lines from professional aviation hose shop. Just
one more choice to make for each builder.
Kelly
On 1/20/2019 9:03 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> Whatever you do, use flexible fire sleeve hose after transducer. DO NOT use
ridged aluminum fuel line after the transducer or before the spider like under
the fuel selector.
> Suspend the transducer with minimal support for maximum flexibility
> At least one -10 had engine failure due to cracked fuel line because of this.
It ended ok with emergency landing at an airport out of IFR. Lots of vibration
down there.
>
> Dave Leikam
> N89DA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
arplnplt(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Whatever you do, use flexible fire sleeve hose after transducer. DO NOT use
ridged aluminum fuel line after the transducer or before the spider like under
the fuel selector.
> Suspend the transducer with minimal support for maximum flexibility
> At least one -10 had engine failure due to cracked fuel line because of this.
It ended ok with emergency landing at an airport out of IFR. Lots of vibration
down there.
>
> Dave Leikam
> N89DA
Keeping in mind comments of those with greater experience (Hi Kelley), I would
disagree with with Dave's minimal support comment. I would think that vibration
is only a problem if the transducer does not move in sync with the engine. If
the transducer is securely mounted to the engine, then it will move with the
engine and so there would be no vibration issue. There are soft aluminium tubes
used on the engine and these are not a problem as they are attached to the
engine at both ends.
It is when things vibrate differently from what it is attached to that things get
sporty!
I didn't find it hard to make my own braided steel fuel hoses using hose ends and
hose tubing from a lo cal speed shop. I used Aeroquip hoses / ends as I wanted
to know the provenance of the parts.
Use of a Koul Tool (also available at a speed shop) made making up the hoses fast
and simple.
Cheers
Les
RV10: C-GCWZ Sold
RV10: C-GROK Nearing completion
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487123#487123
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Les,
I haven't found it a problem to mount the cube to the engine, but EI
recommends against doing that. As for making hoses, true, not difficult,
but there are easy ways to screw it up and not know that it isn't right
if you don't have the experience to inspect the finished hose. Most
shops don't charge that much to do it for you, and properly pressure
test the hose.
On 1/21/2019 7:11 AM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> arplnplt(at)gmail.com wrote:
>> Whatever you do, use flexible fire sleeve hose after transducer. DO NOT use
ridged aluminum fuel line after the transducer or before the spider like under
the fuel selector.
>> Suspend the transducer with minimal support for maximum flexibility
>> At least one -10 had engine failure due to cracked fuel line because of this.
It ended ok with emergency landing at an airport out of IFR. Lots of vibration
down there.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> N89DA
>
>
> Keeping in mind comments of those with greater experience (Hi Kelley), I would
disagree with with Dave's minimal support comment. I would think that vibration
is only a problem if the transducer does not move in sync with the engine.
If the transducer is securely mounted to the engine, then it will move with the
engine and so there would be no vibration issue. There are soft aluminium
tubes used on the engine and these are not a problem as they are attached to the
engine at both ends.
>
> It is when things vibrate differently from what it is attached to that things
get sporty!
>
> I didn't find it hard to make my own braided steel fuel hoses using hose ends
and hose tubing from a lo cal speed shop. I used Aeroquip hoses / ends as I wanted
to know the provenance of the parts.
>
> Use of a Koul Tool (also available at a speed shop) made making up the hoses
fast and simple.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> RV10: C-GCWZ Sold
> RV10: C-GROK Nearing completion
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487123#487123
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Leikam <arplnplt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
I have 600+ hours on my -10. My transducer is mounted just in front of the servo
with flex hose in and out. I made a tab from aluminum stock connected to the
air cleaner below and clamped to the hose above that allows the whole thing
to move slightly forward and aft. 600 hours, no cracks no problem.
I do not have Red Cube. I have the one that comes with Garmin 900x from 2010.
Cant remember the manufacturer. Talked directly to them and was told absolutely
do not mount directly to the engine for a number of reasons. Also instructed
to place after the servo before the spider.
My fuel totals are and have always been within .1 gal of of actual burn.
Extremely accurate.
My 2 cents.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
> On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:19 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> Les,
> I haven't found it a problem to mount the cube to the engine, but EI recommends
against doing that. As for making hoses, true, not difficult, but there are
easy ways to screw it up and not know that it isn't right if you don't have the
experience to inspect the finished hose. Most shops don't charge that much
to do it for you, and properly pressure test the hose.
>
>> On 1/21/2019 7:11 AM, kearney wrote:
>> arplnplt(at)gmail.com wrote:
>>> Whatever you do, use flexible fire sleeve hose after transducer. DO NOT use
ridged aluminum fuel line after the transducer or before the spider like under
the fuel selector.
>>> Suspend the transducer with minimal support for maximum flexibility
>>> At least one -10 had engine failure due to cracked fuel line because of this.
It ended ok with emergency landing at an airport out of IFR. Lots of vibration
down there.
>>>
>>> Dave Leikam
>>> N89DA
>> Keeping in mind comments of those with greater experience (Hi Kelley), I would
disagree with with Dave's minimal support comment. I would think that vibration
is only a problem if the transducer does not move in sync with the engine.
If the transducer is securely mounted to the engine, then it will move with
the engine and so there would be no vibration issue. There are soft aluminium
tubes used on the engine and these are not a problem as they are attached to
the engine at both ends.
>> It is when things vibrate differently from what it is attached to that things
get sporty!
>> I didn't find it hard to make my own braided steel fuel hoses using hose ends
and hose tubing from a lo cal speed shop. I used Aeroquip hoses / ends as I
wanted to know the provenance of the parts.
>> Use of a Koul Tool (also available at a speed shop) made making up the hoses
fast and simple.
>> Cheers
>> Les
>> RV10: C-GCWZ Sold
>> RV10: C-GROK Nearing completion
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487123#487123
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Jones <rjones560xl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
Kelly is correct. Any rigid lines in the engine compartment are going to crack.
Flexible lines are a must. I used the braided line with Teflon core and fire
sleeve for everything. I am fortunate that I have a hose shop (All Hose) close
by. They have also been very helpful with any standard or unusual fitting that
I needed. I used stainless steel fittings for all the fuel system, firewall
forward. I did not bother with Stainless Steel for the oil lines. After all my
oil cooler is aluminum and will melt with a fuel fire anyway. The main thing
is to make sure that never happens.
Robert Jones
> On Jan 21, 2019, at 04:48, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> What you say is correct, but should be clarified. If the line is on or connects
to the engine it must be hose due to the vibration. If in the tunnel, rigid
line is okay.
> There are two types of hose that can be used. Standard fuel line with external
fire sleeve is okay. When I got my kit, Vans supplied standard hose without
fire sleeve. It needed to have fire sleeve added. Integral fire sleeve hose with
teflon core is nicer and longer lasting. It is more flexible, smaller external
diameter and does not deteriorate from heat or age. Fuel lines are best fabricated
by professional hose shops. It may cost you 50 or 100 more, but will
eliminate one source of substantial hazard. While as an A&P I have experience
fabricating hoses, given the time it takes, the need for tooling and proper pressure
testing, I buy my fuel lines from professional aviation hose shop. Just
one more choice to make for each builder.
> Kelly
>
>> On 1/20/2019 9:03 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>> Whatever you do, use flexible fire sleeve hose after transducer. DO NOT use
ridged aluminum fuel line after the transducer or before the spider like under
the fuel selector.
>> Suspend the transducer with minimal support for maximum flexibility
>> At least one -10 had engine failure due to cracked fuel line because of this.
It ended ok with emergency landing at an airport out of IFR. Lots of vibration
down there.
>> Dave Leikam
>> N89DA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter <peter(at)peteraringer.de> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Jones <rjones560xl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
Airflow Performance makes a bypass valve and fittings to mount just before t
he fuel distributor. It can=99t be used in flight because all fuel is b
ypassed back to a Wing tank. Fuel vapors forming after the engine driven fue
l pump are very unlikely because of the higher pressure. Vapors forming befo
re the electric fuel pump are the most likely because the pump is sucking in
stead of pushing, lowering the pressure. I find it hard to believe that pilo
ts are experiencing vapors forming after the engine driven fuel pump. If the
re are vapors forward they were formed earlier, or after shutdown because of
residual heat. The Airflow Performance calve solves the last problem by pur
ging hot fuel and vapors back to a fuel tank before start.
Robert Jones
> On Jan 21, 2019, at 07:45, Peter wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> regarding the vapor lock problem:
> What about a return line into one wing with a valve you can open and close
in flight??
> Before hot starts you could open the valve and remove the air in the fuel l
ines with the electric fuel pump flushing with cold fuel from the wing tank.
After takeoff you close the valve to have correct fuel flow readings...
>
> Greetings from Germany
>
>
> Peter Aringer
>
>> Am 21.01.2019 um 14:03 schrieb Kelly McMullen :
>>
>>
>> What you say is correct, but should be clarified. If the line is on or
>> connects to the engine it must be hose due to the vibration. If in the
>> tunnel, rigid line is okay.
>> There are two types of hose that can be used. Standard fuel line with
>> external fire sleeve is okay. When I got my kit, Vans supplied standard
>> hose without fire sleeve. It needed to have fire sleeve added. Integral
>> fire sleeve hose with teflon core is nicer and longer lasting. It is
>> more flexible, smaller external diameter and does not deteriorate from
>> heat or age. Fuel lines are best fabricated by professional hose shops.
>> It may cost you 50 or 100 more, but will eliminate one source of
>> substantial hazard. While as an A&P I have experience fabricating hoses,
>> given the time it takes, the need for tooling and proper pressure
>> testing, I buy my fuel lines from professional aviation hose shop. Just
>> one more choice to make for each builder.
>> Kelly
>>
>>> On 1/20/2019 9:03 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>>>
>>> Whatever you do, use flexible fire sleeve hose after transducer. DO NO
T use ridged aluminum fuel line after the transducer or before the spider li
ke under the fuel selector.
>>> Suspend the transducer with minimal support for maximum flexibility
>>> At least one -10 had engine failure due to cracked fuel line because of t
his. It ended ok with emergency landing at an airport out of IFR. Lots of v
ibration down there.
>>>
>>> Dave Leikam
>>> N89DA
>>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
Hi again everyone.
To add some more info to the discussion, I just heard back from a tech at Electronics
International (the makers of the red cube) to get their take on placement.
Obviously, they disagree with the placement in the tunnel between the electric
and mechanical pump. In addition to the "water hammer" effect of placing it in
that location that causes erratically high readings, they said their transducers
were designed for fuel to be pushed through, not sucked through.
As far as the discussion of where specifically to locate it past both pumps (between
pump to servo or servo to spider), they suggested that in a case without
a return line from the servo they suggest their diagram on page 18 (between the
pump and servo). They said their rationale for not placing it between servo
to spider in that situation is based on maintaining the calibrated pressure
on the outlet from the servo (based on the number of orifices/volume it's serving).
Apparently, the cube in that position has the potential of changing this
pressure provided by the servo slightly, and as such their STC for installation
without a return line disallows that. With that said, they know that many
homebuilt owners have installed it between the servo and divider, without return
lines, and obviously it's working for them.
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
There is not a vapor lock problem. Some engines will run a bit rough at
taxi power after a hot start, but that is uneven fuel delivery, and maybe
some vapor, but it isn't a lock. Hot starting is the challenge of getting
the right mixture during cranking, not vapor lock. I have been flying with
a Bendix RSA-5 system for 20 years now. On the 200 hp 4 cyl Lycoming in
the Mooney preceding my RV-10, it was easy to flood the engine when hot.
With the 6 cyl 540 engine, it isn't as prone to flooding, it is just
getting the right mixture. The mechanical pump doesn't necessarily generate
enough pressure at cranking speeds. I get better hot start reliability with
the boost pump on, and then bring in the mixture slowly. When right, the
engine fires and keeps running. Without the boost pump it often fires and
then quits. W'ith the RSA system it is just a matter of finding what
procedure is most reliable. If the approach from the mixture cutoff isn't
working, and adding throttle doesn't help, you can perhaps go to full rich
and flood engine, then lean out until it fires.
Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100
On Mon, Jan 21, 2019 at 8:54 AM Peter wrote:
> Hi,
>
> regarding the vapor lock problem:
> What about a return line into one wing with a valve you can open and close
> in flight??
> Before hot starts you could open the valve and remove the air in the fuel
> lines with the electric fuel pump flushing with cold fuel from the wing
> tank. After takeoff you close the valve to have correct fuel flow
> readings...
>
> Greetings from Germany
>
>
> Peter Aringer
>
> Am 21.01.2019 um 14:03 schrieb Kelly McMullen :
>
>
> What you say is correct, but should be clarified. If the line is on or
> connects to the engine it must be hose due to the vibration. If in the
> tunnel, rigid line is okay.
> There are two types of hose that can be used. Standard fuel line with
> external fire sleeve is okay. When I got my kit, Vans supplied standard
> hose without fire sleeve. It needed to have fire sleeve added. Integral
> fire sleeve hose with teflon core is nicer and longer lasting. It is
> more flexible, smaller external diameter and does not deteriorate from
> heat or age. Fuel lines are best fabricated by professional hose shops.
> It may cost you 50 or 100 more, but will eliminate one source of
> substantial hazard. While as an A&P I have experience fabricating hoses,
> given the time it takes, the need for tooling and proper pressure
> testing, I buy my fuel lines from professional aviation hose shop. Just
> one more choice to make for each builder.
> Kelly
>
> On 1/20/2019 9:03 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>
>
> Whatever you do, use flexible fire sleeve hose after transducer. DO NOT
> use ridged aluminum fuel line after the transducer or before the spider
> like under the fuel selector.
>
> Suspend the transducer with minimal support for maximum flexibility
>
> At least one -10 had engine failure due to cracked fuel line because of
> this. It ended ok with emergency landing at an airport out of IFR. Lots
> of vibration down there.
>
>
> Dave Leikam
>
> N89DA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Relocating red cube |
| From: | Terry Moushon <tmoushon(at)gmail.com> |
Data point
My -10 started flying in May2016. Since then, I have acquired 370 hours and an
instrument rating in it. I have G3x touch and review my data after each flight
(retired). I copied another builders red cube location and my pressure and
flow has been rock solid. My YIO-540-D4A5 had two threaded holes in the sump
where I installed a piece of angle. I installed the cube there using black
baffle material to isolate it from vibration. Tom Swarengen (TS FlightLine) made
all my fire sleeved lines. No issues to date.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Ive used the stock valve in my 6, it got stiff on me once but disassembled and
lubed, no problem since. Using the stock valve on my 10 and no problems, using
the red pointer knob.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487204#487204
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anybody use stock fuel valve? |
| From: | "rvdave" <rv610dave(at)gmail.com> |
Ive used the stock valve in my 6, it got stiff on me once but disassembled and
lubed, no problem since. Using the stock valve on my 10 and no problems, using
the red pointer knob.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487207#487207
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHN MILLER <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
After 12 years, I need to replace one of my Vans supplied door seals.
Has anyone found a better door seal than what you can get from Vans?
Thanks,
grumpy
N184JM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Section 38 Page 38-8 |
With regard to Step 4, and Figure 1.
It appears that the cable exiting the left side of the fuselage is
supposed to cross over the cable exiting the right side of the fuselage.
It seems to me that this could use more clarity. It also seems like it
would have been prudent to have a guide to prevent the cables from ever
rubbing in that area. I suspect there are some flying examples that have
this wrong. I welcome your comments.
Kelly
80466, flying for almost 3 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Section 38 Page 38-8 |
Though the diagram appears to have the cables rubbing against each other, in 3
dimensions they don't come close enough to one another to worry about them chafing.
It's one of those situations where the "real world" example makes more
sense than the diagram.
There wouldn't be flying examples of anyone getting this wrong, since if you didn't
have the crossover of cables, the rudder would operate backwards.
Dan
> On 2019-Feb-14, at 8:12 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> With regard to Step 4, and Figure 1.
> It appears that the cable exiting the left side of the fuselage is supposed to
cross over the cable exiting the right side of the fuselage.
> It seems to me that this could use more clarity. It also seems like it would
have been prudent to have a guide to prevent the cables from ever rubbing in that
area. I suspect there are some flying examples that have this wrong. I welcome
your comments.
> Kelly
> 80466, flying for almost 3 years
>
>
>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Section 38 Page 38-8 |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Well, they may have been "flown" examples for one flight.
After that they would probably be salvage examples. ;)
I agree. If someone follows the plans, they seem to be
just fine. I'd worry more about wearing through the
snap bushings, especially in places where the cable is
always rubbing in the same spot. That's something
to check ever condition inspection.
Tim
On 2/14/2019 9:47 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> There wouldn't be flying examples of anyone getting this wrong, since if you
didn't have the crossover of cables, the rudder would operate backwards.
>
> Dan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Section 38 Page 38-8 |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I have seen an example of where the cable cross-over existed, but was
"wrong" as the wrong cable on top, so that the cables in fact did rub.
I wasn't suggesting one might not crossover the cables, that is clearly
shown on the plans. What is not so clear is which one needs to be on
top. Until tension is applies it is not so obvious.
Kelly
On 2/14/2019 8:47 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Though the diagram appears to have the cables rubbing against each other, in
3 dimensions they don't come close enough to one another to worry about them chafing.
It's one of those situations where the "real world" example makes more
sense than the diagram.
>
> There wouldn't be flying examples of anyone getting this wrong, since if you
didn't have the crossover of cables, the rudder would operate backwards.
>
> Dan
>
>> On 2019-Feb-14, at 8:12 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>> With regard to Step 4, and Figure 1.
>> It appears that the cable exiting the left side of the fuselage is supposed
to cross over the cable exiting the right side of the fuselage.
>> It seems to me that this could use more clarity. It also seems like it would
have been prudent to have a guide to prevent the cables from ever rubbing in
that area. I suspect there are some flying examples that have this wrong. I welcome
your comments.
>> Kelly
>> 80466, flying for almost 3 years
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg McFarlane" <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com> |
Can anyone give me an idea of build times in hours that have been put in to build
the Elevators and also the wings (not QB) ? Know I could probably trawl through
some of the excellent build logs that are around to get an idea, but hopefully
this will be an easier way to get the info [Rolling Eyes] [Rolling
Eyes]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487609#487609
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | parish <parish(at)parishmoffitt.com> |
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YXJlLCBhbmQgbXVjaCBtdWNoIG1vcmU6Xy09Xy09wqDCoCAtLT4gaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25p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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isaac Schantz <isaac.schantz(at)gmail.com> |
I spent 547.5 on both wings (non-QB), not priming except where Van's
required, this included pressure testing on the wing tanks. Used the Aveo
Engineering ZipTips as opposed to Vans wing tips and lights. Also included
the Dynon autopilot servo for the ailerons and Dynon heated pitot with
mast. Don't get bogged down in the tank build. Just slog through it until
done. It's not as bad as everyone out there says it is. Although more
expensive, found the pro-seal in the tubes worked really well. I was
really liberal with it and ended up using 18 tubes on both tanks. Leak
test only showed one rivet with a leak. Easily fixed. Frustration with
leaking tanks was kept to a minimum. As they say, build on!!
On Fri, Feb 15, 2019 at 4:38 AM parish wrote:
> I spent 71.5 hours on my elevators. That includes optional/ discretionary
> time for priming, proseal for the trailing edge, and making modification
> for static wicks.
>
> As for the wing, I am 224 hours into it so far. Main wing body is complete
> through the top skin attached and gap fairings attached. Flaps are complete
> and working on the fuel tanks, probably about 60% complete but I haven't
> leak testing anything yet, LOL!
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Greg McFarlane <grbcmcfarlane(at)gmail.com>
> Date: 2/15/19 04:25 (GMT-05:00)
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Build Time
>
> >
>
> Can anyone give me an idea of build times in hours that have been put in
> to build the Elevators and also the wings (not QB) ? Know I could
> probably trawl through some of the excellent build logs that are around to
> get an idea, but hopefully this will be an easier way to get the info
> [Rolling Eyes] [Rolling Eyes]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487609#487609
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | MAC 3 LED Trim Indicator... |
Hello,
A fellow homebuilder friend of mine has a old-style three-LED (Red|Green|Red) MAC
Trim Position Indicator. The Green LED was burned out, and the wires were
cut off too short.
I told him I would try to replace the LED and lead wires. I got it apart without
completely destroying it. But the internal wiring and polarity of the LEDs
isn't that clear to me, nor is the actuation of it through a servo electronically.
I'm not sure how to activate three LEDs with only three wires? (Or did there
used to be four wires?)
Does anyone have a PDF schematic of the 3-LED MAC Trim Indicator that you could
email to me?
Or better yet, does anyone have a spare or unused one of these they would like
to sell me?
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | MAC 3 LED Trim Indicator... |
Hello,
A fellow homebuilder friend of mine has a old-style three-LED (Red|Green|Red) MAC
Trim Position Indicator. The Green LED was burned out, and the wires were
cut off too short.
I told him I would try to replace the LED and lead wires. I got it apart without
completely destroying it. But the internal wiring and polarity of the LEDs
isn't that clear to me, nor is the actuation of it through a servo electronically.
I'm not sure how to activate three LEDs with only three wires? (Or did there
used to be four wires?)
Does anyone have a PDF schematic of the 3-LED MAC Trim Indicator that you could
email to me?
Or better yet, does anyone have a spare or unused one of these they would like
to sell me?
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MAC 3 LED Trim Indicator... |
| From: | John Baer <jbaer(at)LititzPP.com> |
Hi Matt,
The obvious (but probably incorrect) answer is that the chassis is the 4th wire.
Is the housing metal?
J
John Baer
Lititz Precision Products LLC
Lititz PA USA
www.LititzPP.com
Cell (EST USA) (717) 413-7931
Skype: John.Baer7712
From: <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Saturday, February 16, 2019 at 7:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: MAC 3 LED Trim Indicator...
Hello,
A fellow homebuilder friend of mine has a old-style three-LED (Red|Green|Red) MAC
Trim Position Indicator. The Green LED was burned out, and the wires were
cut off too short.
I told him I would try to replace the LED and lead wires. I got it apart without
completely destroying it. But the internal wiring and polarity of the LEDs
isn't that clear to me, nor is the actuation of it through a servo electronically.
I'm not sure how to activate three LEDs with only three wires? (Or did there
used to be four wires?)
Does anyone have a PDF schematic of the 3-LED MAC Trim Indicator that you could
email to me?
Or better yet, does anyone have a spare or unused one of these they would like
to sell me?
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Any recommendations for wing walk material? I have searched the archives and a
few recommended the clear from ACS. Hows the durability of the
clear? Any other recommendations?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487669#487669
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I think they're all durable, but I've had people buy the clear who've
not been completely happy in the long run, mainly because it can
yellow and it gets dirty and looks bad then. So it's more common to
go black.
But, if someone else has a different reply, please add it. Mine is
not first hand but second hand.
Tim
On 2/18/19 8:22 AM, whodja wrote:
>
> Any recommendations for wing walk material? I have searched the archives and
a few recommended the clear from ACS. Hows the durability of the
> clear? Any other recommendations?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marcus Cooper <cooprv7(at)yahoo.com> |
I like the black because in addition to not yellowing it gives people a clear image
of where it is okay to step.
Marcus
> On Feb 18, 2019, at 9:41 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I think they're all durable, but I've had people buy the clear who've
> not been completely happy in the long run, mainly because it can
> yellow and it gets dirty and looks bad then. So it's more common to
> go black.
> But, if someone else has a different reply, please add it. Mine is
> not first hand but second hand.
>
> Tim
>
>
>> On 2/18/19 8:22 AM, whodja wrote:
>> Any recommendations for wing walk material? I have searched the archives and
a few recommended the clear from ACS. Hows the durability of the
>> clear? Any other recommendations?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill.peyton" <billpeyton9(at)gmail.com> |
I have the vans black wing walk installed. Its been 6 years and still looks new.
It comes with the cutouts for the screws
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487680#487680
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
I totally agree with Tim and Marcus.
FWIW
Sent from my iPhone
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling & Design
> On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:18 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>
> I like the black because in addition to not yellowing it gives people a clear
image of where it is okay to step.
>
> Marcus
>
>
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 9:41 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> I think they're all durable, but I've had people buy the clear who've
>> not been completely happy in the long run, mainly because it can
>> yellow and it gets dirty and looks bad then. So it's more common to
>> go black.
>> But, if someone else has a different reply, please add it. Mine is
>> not first hand but second hand.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>> On 2/18/19 8:22 AM, whodja wrote:
>>> Any recommendations for wing walk material? I have searched the archives and
a few recommended the clear from ACS. Hows the durability of the
>>> clear? Any other recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks guys!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487687#487687
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I did the test - black on one side, clear on the other! They both work, have been
durable, but, as Tim said, the clear is near impossible to clean. Id suggest
the black.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487691#487691
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tshort" <tmshort(at)gmail.com> |
This is relevant to me as I need to replace the wing walk during the inspection
this year. Mine is peeling off (maybe because my airplane is so fast?!? ha)
Any experience with the paint on kind?
What is the best solvent to remove the old wing walk / adhesive without paint damage?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487706#487706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I removed some in the fall and just used a heat gun to heat it gently,
and then it peeled up without any paint issues. But it would be
easily possible to pull paint off rivet heads if they're covered.
That said, as long as you're reapplying, you can always paint
the rivet heads and they should stay buried. Peel towards
the center from all edges first, and that should help ensure
no paint issues.
Tim
On 2/20/2019 1:59 AM, tshort wrote:
>
> This is relevant to me as I need to replace the wing walk during the inspection
this year. Mine is peeling off (maybe because my airplane is so fast?!? ha)
>
> Any experience with the paint on kind?
>
> What is the best solvent to remove the old wing walk / adhesive without paint
damage?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487706#487706
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If it is the self-adhesive variety, I would recommend gentle use of a heat
gun....as I see Tim just suggested.
I would recommend against the brushed-on variety. I've never seen any
hand-applied wing walk that looked right.
I'm not sure how paint shops put it on, but they generally do a good job.
Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100
On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 1:05 AM tshort wrote:
>
> This is relevant to me as I need to replace the wing walk during the
> inspection this year. Mine is peeling off (maybe because my airplane is so
> fast?!? ha)
>
> Any experience with the paint on kind?
>
> What is the best solvent to remove the old wing walk / adhesive without
> paint damage?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487706#487706
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <germanwalas(at)globalworldusa.com> |
Germn Walas
www.globalworld.com.ar
>From USA (+01) 786-207-4816
Desde Arg. (+54) 11 5-984-1301
Skype: gwalas
www.linkedin.com/in/germanwalas/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of RV10-List Digest Server
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2019 2:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 02/22/19
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
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Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML
for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message
Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV10-List
Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with
a web browser.
HTML Version:
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----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Does anyone have a recommendation for paint stencils? My designer was
not Scheme Designers but it should have been.
I have a great painter and stencils would be a big help.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487841#487841
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenard Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint stencils |
I used these guys, they were awesome and delivered good quality work:
http://moodyaero.com/
Lenny
> On Feb 27, 2019, at 5:55 PM, whodja wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation for paint stencils? My designer was
> not Scheme Designers but it should have been.
>
> I have a great painter and stencils would be a big help.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487841#487841
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint stencils |
| From: | "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Lenny
Did they do your 10?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487848#487848
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Philips" <jack(at)bedfordlandings.com> |
I used Denny Demeter at AvGrafix. http://www.avgrafix.com/ .They did all
the graphics in vinyl for my Pietenpol Air Camper that I built 15 years ago
(you can see a picture of it on their web page at the top right corner of
their photo gallery). The graphics were done in vinyl, but the 30" numbers
on the wings were a vinyl stencil and the numbers were painted on using
their stencils. All has lasted well for 15 years of flying all over the
country, even in rain (not something you want to do in an open cockpit
airplane). They are very good people to work with.
Jack Phillips
Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP, "Icarus Plummet"
RV-10 # 40610, N142KW, almost (finishing wheel fairings before bolting the
wings on)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of whodja
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 8:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint stencils
Does anyone have a recommendation for paint stencils? My designer was not
Scheme Designers but it should have been.
I have a great painter and stencils would be a big help.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487841#487841
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lenard Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint stencils |
Yes, it was for the -10.
Lenny
> On Feb 28, 2019, at 3:48 AM, whodja wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Lenny
>
> Did they do your 10?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487848#487848
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Kitlog seems to be down - is it still supposed to be operational? |
Was recently checking my build pages and it seems the site has been down
for at least a few days.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kitlog seems to be down - is it still supposed to be operational? |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Nevermind - it's up an running again.
On 2/28/2019 4:47 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Was recently checking my build pages and it seems the site has been
> down for at least a few days.
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Loose Control Stick |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I have noticed that there is more forward/backward movement in the control stick
than I would like. It appears is the due to the control stick OD being somewhat
smaller than the WD-1011 ID. Has anyone else encountered this and if so what
was the solution.
Cheers
Les
RV10 - C-GCWZ sold
RV10 - C-GROK almost complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487899#487899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose Control Stick |
I saw something similar, many of us have. It was the brass bushing further down
on the assembly. (sorry, dont have the part numbers now)
I turned down a new bushing to a custom fit out of delrin, and its got zero slop
now.
Phil
> On Mar 3, 2019, at 7:16 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I have noticed that there is more forward/backward movement in the control stick
than I would like. It appears is the due to the control stick OD being somewhat
smaller than the WD-1011 ID. Has anyone else encountered this and if so
what was the solution.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> RV10 - C-GCWZ sold
> RV10 - C-GROK almost complete
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487899#487899
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose Control Stick |
Les
Mine are an interference fit on both sticks. Something has changed.
Warm regards
PATRICK
=9CSafety Never Sleeps=9D
> On 4 Mar 2019, at 11:46, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I have noticed that there is more forward/backward movement in the control
stick than I would like. It appears is the due to the control stick OD bein
g somewhat smaller than the WD-1011 ID. Has anyone else encountered this and
if so what was the solution.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> RV10 - C-GCWZ sold
> RV10 - C-GROK almost complete
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487899#487899
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Loose Control Stick |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Patrick
I don't recall this being a problem on my first -10. In any event,the sticks are
*not* an interference fit now. I think I'll call Vans in the am.
Thanks
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487902#487902
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose Control Stick |
Very common. Some are worse than others
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 3, 2019, at 8:57 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>
> Hi Patrick
>
> I don't recall this being a problem on my first -10. In any event,the sticks
are *not* an interference fit now. I think I'll call Vans in the am.
>
> Thanks
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487902#487902
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Loose Control Stick |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
David
That is not a comforting thought! Controls are not something that should be "sloppy".
I'll post whatever info I get from Vans.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487905#487905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose Control Stick |
Ever flown a Cessna? ;)
-----Original Message-----
David
That is not a comforting thought! Controls are not something that should be
"sloppy". I'll post whatever info I get from Vans.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487905#487905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose Control Stick |
Ben
Yes I have. The rehab was extensive.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 4, 2019, at 8:50 AM, Ben Westfall wrote:
>
>
> Ever flown a Cessna? ;)
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> David
>
> That is not a comforting thought! Controls are not something that should be
> "sloppy". I'll post whatever info I get from Vans.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487905#487905
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <ogdenk(at)upstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Plumbing in some extra fuel capacity |
All,
I would like to build in some fuel plumbing to allow for optional extra
capacity, perhaps using tanks like these:
https://www.turtlepac.com/products/collapsible-aircraft-ferry-tanks/
A 25 or 33 gallon tank would add significant range for the occasional long
distance flight or allow for improved range at high speed cruise.
I am trying to not design in a weak point in my fuel system though, as it
is so critical and there have been some accidents related to fuel system
issues.
One idea is to add a 'T' AN fitting to the fuel line under the copilot
seat, that would then have an aluminum line run along the right side of
the cockpit to the right rear seat, and would normally hide under the side
cover next to that seat. I would put a shutoff valve there that would
normally be closed, and on the other side of the valve put an appropriate
fitting that could attach to the ferry tank that could be strapped to the
seat. To use, take the side cover off, connect the ferry tank, bleed the
air out of the system, then during flight fuel could be pumped into the
right tank while running the engine on the left tank (or maybe the right
tank, might not matter). When the ferry tank is nearly empty, shut off
the pump and close the valve.
One concern is that the extension plumbing would have air in it until it
is used, and air bubbles could conceivably find their way into the main
line. The extension line could be filled with fuel too, but that would
sit there stagnant for possibly long periods of time (is that an issue?).
I had also considered adding a check valve to prevent fuel from flowing
from the main tank side back into the extension plumbing (in case of a
leak in the extension), but that would be generally uphill so gravity
would be on your side there.
Another possibility is to plumb directly to the tank, but the tank is
finished and I'm not sure I'd like to poke any more holes in it, which
would probably leave some aluminum bits inside to boot. I can't just
plumb into the vent line since there is no way to let the displaced air
out of the tank when pumping in fuel through that line.
I don't want to start a debate about the RV-10 range etc, just want to
hear thoughts on what's likely to work without adding too much extra
complexity and risk.
Thanks for your thoughts!
Kent Ogden
#40710
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing in some extra fuel capacity |
Interesting timing, I just discussed this with another RV-10 builder earlier
today. Some thoughts:
- There are commercial wingtip tanks that add 15 gallons or so of fuel, but I
ruled this option out as it added a lot of complexity, weight and has a hug
e price tag. Add to that the obvious =9CVan=99s did not conside
r this in the wing design=9D aspect.
- My neighbor at Dogwood is the guy that flew his specialty build Lancair IV
over both the North and South Poles. He had a total of seven fuel tanks ad
ded to the plane (380 or so gallons). Five of the tanks he custom made usin
g carbon fiber board to fit all the contours of the plane, the aft large one
strong enough to support the one large and one small badder tanks like that
you reference. He had a very straightforward approach to fuel plumbing to m
itigate risk of something going wrong - yielding a forced landing in the Arc
tic or Antarctic. He had a single, simple 90 degree isolation valve for eac
h tank going to a Facet pump. The transferred fuel only goes to the 10 gall
on header tank that has a clear sight glass for fuel level. He transferred f
uel every hour or so like Limburg did in the Sprit of St. Louis.
Stealing from the above and ruling out the header tank or extra wing tanks l
eads to a 20+ gallon ferry tank that gets mounted in place of one or both re
ar seats. The ferry tank being one of many composite racing tank options (I
would not consider the badder tank for this application). I have this set u
p for my new RV-8 project, the tank being fed into a T on the right tank fue
l line before it goes to the fuel valve. The T will be normally capped when
not being used for this connection. Ferry tank vent will go to the wing ro
ot area or aft to exit the bottom of the fuselage. Operation will be to bur
n 20 or so gallons out of the right tank, fly on the left tank, open the fer
ry tank isolation valve and turn on the Facet pump (with check valve) to tra
nsfer fuel to the right tank. My Lancair buddy tells me the change in noise
from the Facet pump when the ferry tank is dry is obvious - but you will al
so get the right tank fuel sender increasing as a positive indication.
My thinking is that 99+% of the time having more than the five hours of gas w
ill not be needed, so the ferry tank will spend most of it=99s life on
the shelf in the hangar. Make it easy to get in and out of the plane.
If you want to get fancy you can build a couple of tanks out of carbon that e
xactly fits the rear seat floor area, moving the ferry tank weigh a little m
ore forward toward the center of gravity.
No other changes to the standard fuel system other than this T is done. Whi
le I did build the right tank with an extra fuel fitting for this purpose I d
ecided a T on the inside of the fuselage line was more practical.
For the RV-10 you lose one or both back seats depending on ferry tank size, b
ut the added weight of the fuel translates to not carrying four people.
Carl
> On Mar 4, 2019, at 4:03 PM, Kent Ogden wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I would like to build in some fuel plumbing to allow for optional extra ca
pacity, perhaps using tanks like these:
>
> https://www.turtlepac.com/products/collapsible-aircraft-ferry-tanks/
>
> A 25 or 33 gallon tank would add significant range for the occasional long
distance flight or allow for improved range at high speed cruise.
>
> I am trying to not design in a weak point in my fuel system though, as it i
s so critical and there have been some accidents related to fuel system issu
es.
>
> One idea is to add a 'T' AN fitting to the fuel line under the copilot sea
t, that would then have an aluminum line run along the right side of the coc
kpit to the right rear seat, and would normally hide under the side cover ne
xt to that seat. I would put a shutoff valve there that would normally be c
losed, and on the other side of the valve put an appropriate fitting that co
uld attach to the ferry tank that could be strapped to the seat. To use, ta
ke the side cover off, connect the ferry tank, bleed the air out of the syst
em, then during flight fuel could be pumped into the right tank while runnin
g the engine on the left tank (or maybe the right tank, might not matter). W
hen the ferry tank is nearly empty, shut off the pump and close the valve.
>
> One concern is that the extension plumbing would have air in it until it i
s used, and air bubbles could conceivably find their way into the main line.
The extension line could be filled with fuel too, but that would sit there
stagnant for possibly long periods of time (is that an issue?). I had also
considered adding a check valve to prevent fuel from flowing from the main t
ank side back into the extension plumbing (in case of a leak in the extensio
n), but that would be generally uphill so gravity would be on your side ther
e.
>
> Another possibility is to plumb directly to the tank, but the tank is fini
shed and I'm not sure I'd like to poke any more holes in it, which would pro
bably leave some aluminum bits inside to boot. I can't just plumb into the v
ent line since there is no way to let the displaced air out of the tank when
pumping in fuel through that line.
>
> I don't want to start a debate about the RV-10 range etc, just want to hea
r thoughts on what's likely to work without adding too much extra complexity
and risk.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts!
>
> Kent Ogden
> #40710
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing in some extra fuel capacity |
Interesting timing, I just discussed this with another RV-10 builder earlier
today. Some thoughts:
- There are commercial wingtip tanks that add 15 gallons or so of fuel, but I
ruled this option out as it added a lot of complexity, weight and has a hug
e price tag. Add to that the obvious =9CVan=99s did not conside
r this in the wing design=9D aspect.
- My neighbor at Dogwood is the guy that flew his specialty build Lancair IV
over both the North and South Poles. He had a total of seven fuel tanks ad
ded to the plane (380 or so gallons). Five of the tanks he custom made usin
g carbon fiber board to fit all the contours of the plane, the aft large one
strong enough to support the one large and one small badder tanks like that
you reference. He had a very straightforward approach to fuel plumbing to m
itigate risk of something going wrong - yielding a forced landing in the Arc
tic or Antarctic. He had a single, simple 90 degree isolation valve for eac
h tank going to a Facet pump. The transferred fuel only goes to the 10 gall
on header tank that has a clear sight glass for fuel level. He transferred f
uel every hour or so like Limburg did in the Sprit of St. Louis.
Stealing from the above and ruling out the header tank or extra wing tanks l
eads to a 20+ gallon ferry tank that gets mounted in place of one or both re
ar seats. The ferry tank being one of many composite racing tank options (I
would not consider the badder tank for this application). I have this set u
p for my new RV-8 project, the tank being fed into a T on the right tank fue
l line before it goes to the fuel valve. The T will be normally capped when
not being used for this connection. Ferry tank vent will go to the wing ro
ot area or aft to exit the bottom of the fuselage. Operation will be to bur
n 20 or so gallons out of the right tank, fly on the left tank, open the fer
ry tank isolation valve and turn on the Facet pump (with check valve) to tra
nsfer fuel to the right tank. My Lancair buddy tells me the change in noise
from the Facet pump when the ferry tank is dry is obvious - but you will al
so get the right tank fuel sender increasing as a positive indication.
My thinking is that 99+% of the time having more than the five hours of gas w
ill not be needed, so the ferry tank will spend most of it=99s life on
the shelf in the hangar. Make it easy to get in and out of the plane.
If you want to get fancy you can build a couple of tanks out of carbon that e
xactly fits the rear seat floor area, moving the ferry tank weigh a little m
ore forward toward the center of gravity.
No other changes to the standard fuel system other than this T is done. Whi
le I did build the right tank with an extra fuel fitting for this purpose I d
ecided a T on the inside of the fuselage line was more practical.
For the RV-10 you lose one or both back seats depending on ferry tank size, b
ut the added weight of the fuel translates to not carrying four people.
Carl
August 20, 2018 - March 04, 2019
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ne