RV7-Archive.digest.vol-ag
October 02, 2004 - December 07, 2004
while you build & it ain't gonna be maintenance friendly, so it meets
traditional aircraft standards. ;-)
Email me off list if you want details.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Tip tanks by Jon Johanson? |
At the recent RV Forum in Fulton, NY, there were RVs there with extended
range tanks. One had them in the leading edge, like Van's, one bay
outboard for the stock tanks, and the other had (I believe) 12 gallons in
the baggage compartment. I have pics of both, if people want to see.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tip tanks by Jon Johanson?
Allen Fulmer wrote:
>
>Anyone installed the tip tanks by Jon Johanson?
>
>If so, comments pro and/or con?
>
>Expensive but a reported extra 12 gallons per side!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Allen Fulmer
>RV7 Wings
>N808AF reserved
>
I'm about midway through adding 12 gal/side to the wing leading edges on
my -7 wings. It's not approved by Van's (the last time I checked they
wouldn't recommend the tip tank mod either), but it's already been done
by at least 2 RV-9 guys. It's a lot more work than bolting on the tip
tanks, but only costs about $200-$300 total to do. It's got to be done
while you build & it ain't gonna be maintenance friendly, so it meets
traditional aircraft standards. ;-)
Email me off list if you want details.
Charlie
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Souther Arizona RV builders? |
Fellow Southern Arizona RV builders.
I am building a RV-7A in Tucson Arizona (wings 80% complete) and I am trying to
get a list of RV builders (not owners) here in Southern Arizona. Please chime
in with the type and status of your project. You can contact me directly at
merems(at)cox.net or post directly to the newsgroup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis(at)defence.gov.au> |
| Subject: | Tip Tanks by Johanson |
Allen,
I have installed two sets of Johanson tip tanks, and have also observed
their construction during some maintenance training I managed to organise in
Adelaide, South Australia.
The fuel capacity is 12.5 USG. Each fibreglass tanks should weigh in at 11.5
lbs each. The fibreglass tanks are over-built in order to withstand hangar
rash. There is around 70 or more manhours in the construction of each set of
tanks, and that drives the price.
They are now a very mature product.
Naturally the inboard rim of each tank has to be built slightly oversize to
allow for individual variation on wing tip profile and that generates a lot
of trimming with a cut-off disk, and some sanding down with a coarse flap
wheel. Then you get to instal a lot of nutplates. Allow 4 days work to
install a pair of tanks if you have seen the process before, more if you
havent.
What else do you need to know?
Email me direct if you would like more info, of which I have plenty.
Regards,
David Francis, Canberra, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen Fulmer [mailto:afulmer(at)charter.net]
Subject: POSSIBLE SPAM-DEFGRAM178/04 [dkn01] RV7-List: Tip Tanks by
Johanson
Anyone installed the tip tanks by Jon Johanson?
If so, comments pro and/or con?
Expensive but a reported extra 12 gallons per side!
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings
N808AF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Bell <wmlbell(at)comcast.net> |
I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
what you are using for a builders log. Anyone have suggestions on the
best way to track time and progress. I have an Apple iMac so I can
create my own database if necessary. I know there is a Kitpro Log Plus
for Windows computers, but I don't think it is available for Apple.
Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.
Larry Bell, RV-7A
Waiting for Wings and Fuselage
Empennage Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> |
Larry
I am using a web site to track progress and time which seems to be what a
lot of people are doing, mine is simple but some of them are excellent
(www.whiskeybravo.com is good and has many links to others). Kind of fun to
do and provides some feedback to other builders at similar stages in the
process.
Dave Figgins RV-7A empennage (wings on order)
Dbfiggins.home.comcast.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Bell
Subject: RV7-List: Builders Log
I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and what you
are using for a builders log. Anyone have suggestions on the best way to
track time and progress. I have an Apple iMac so I can create my own
database if necessary. I know there is a Kitpro Log Plus for Windows
computers, but I don't think it is available for Apple.
Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.
Larry Bell, RV-7A
Waiting for Wings and Fuselage
Empennage Complete
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Log |
I am making entries in my builder's instruction (step by step) book that
Vans supplied us. As I complete each step, I date and ok it as done. If
there is any issue that still needs attention, I notate that for later
review and completion. I also take some pictures but not that many. I am
more concerned about building a quality plane rather than documenting it.
Others such as Day Checkaway and Sam Buchanon and many others have great web
sites that shows they devoted a larger part of their life to documenting
their work. I use them when ever needed. I particularly take pictures of
my project when someone that has considerable experience comes over and look
at my project. That is evidence that I am not just doing this without some
oversight. The construction book with my log notes along with pics and
receipts of extra things needed to complete the plane are plenty of evidence
of meeting the 51% rule.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" About 96% complete and 14% yet to go.
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Bell" <wmlbell(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV7-List: Builders Log
>
> I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
> what you are using for a builders log. Anyone have suggestions on the
> best way to track time and progress. I have an Apple iMac so I can
> create my own database if necessary. I know there is a Kitpro Log Plus
> for Windows computers, but I don't think it is available for Apple.
> Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.
>
> Larry Bell, RV-7A
> Waiting for Wings and Fuselage
> Empennage Complete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed clegg" <edwclg(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Log |
I bought kitlog and discontinued using it. It is not user friendly.
I NOW KEEP TRACK IN A WRITTEN BOOK AND TAKE DIGITAL PICS THAT I PRINT AND
ADD TO THE APPROPRIATE COMMENTS.
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Bell" <wmlbell(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV7-List: Builders Log
>
> I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
> what you are using for a builders log. Anyone have suggestions on the
> best way to track time and progress. I have an Apple iMac so I can
> create my own database if necessary. I know there is a Kitpro Log Plus
> for Windows computers, but I don't think it is available for Apple.
> Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.
>
> Larry Bell, RV-7A
> Waiting for Wings and Fuselage
> Empennage Complete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Air Compressor & Tools |
Greetings everyone,
I am forgoing building a Cozy MK-IV (maybe 2% done) for an RV-7A for too
many reasons to list and I have a few questions for those willing to answer.
1) Which tool kit would you recommend? (i.e. Avery, Cleveland, etc.)
2) Would a 21 Gallon air compressor be adequate for the building process?
Thanks in advance for your guidance.
Scott Shook
RV-7A (Order Form ready to fax to Vans.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor & Tools |
Scot,
With a 21 gallon air compressor you can easily accomplish any task that you
will run into building an RV. I used a 1 1/2 gallon all last week end and it
kept up with an airdrill and a rivet gun with hardly ever running. Where you
might have some problems is with airtools that require constant running like
die grinders.
There is tons of info in the archives about air compressors, you could spend
a day or so just reading it all. Lets start a thread about bigger vs.
quieter.
Avery and Cleaveland both make good tools. I have had good service from
both.
Mike Ice
RV-9
Anchorage, Alaska
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV7-List: Air Compressor & Tools
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
> I am forgoing building a Cozy MK-IV (maybe 2% done) for an RV-7A for too
> many reasons to list and I have a few questions for those willing to
answer.
>
> 1) Which tool kit would you recommend? (i.e. Avery, Cleveland, etc.)
>
> 2) Would a 21 Gallon air compressor be adequate for the building process?
>
> Thanks in advance for your guidance.
>
> Scott Shook
> RV-7A (Order Form ready to fax to Vans.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor & Tools |
I am at a mid empennage stage. Bought Avery kit with 3x and pneumatic
squeezer. Around $2100. Get a compressor that requires oil. Quieter and will last
longer. I have a Dewalt EMGLO with a little tank. Probably would not be happy
spraying or running pneumatic drills but for squeezing etc its great and does not
run all the time. I am on a 7a too.
Regards
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Air Compressor & Tools |
1. I have repeatedly found Avery's customer service and responsiveness to be
VASTLY better than Cleaveland's.
2. yes, but avoid the oilless type - they are EXTREMELY noisy
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook
Subject: RV7-List: Air Compressor & Tools
Greetings everyone,
I am forgoing building a Cozy MK-IV (maybe 2% done) for an RV-7A for too
many reasons to list and I have a few questions for those willing to answer.
1) Which tool kit would you recommend? (i.e. Avery, Cleveland, etc.)
2) Would a 21 Gallon air compressor be adequate for the building process?
Thanks in advance for your guidance.
Scott Shook
RV-7A (Order Form ready to fax to Vans.)
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor & Tools |
Scott,
I'm using 30 gal compressor. It runs often and is loud but is getting the job
done. I have been using the Avery tool kit. Great tools and excellent customer
service. Good luck on your 7!
Bill Lull
>
> From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2004/10/11 Mon PM 09:40:20 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RV7-List: Air Compressor & Tools
>
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
> I am forgoing building a Cozy MK-IV (maybe 2% done) for an RV-7A for too
> many reasons to list and I have a few questions for those willing to answer.
>
> 1) Which tool kit would you recommend? (i.e. Avery, Cleveland, etc.)
>
> 2) Would a 21 Gallon air compressor be adequate for the building process?
>
> Thanks in advance for your guidance.
>
> Scott Shook
> RV-7A (Order Form ready to fax to Vans.)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor & Tools |
Scott
I didn't have a lot of money to spend so I bought the empennage toolkit from
cleveland and I like it. The only other thing you need with it is a squeezer
so I bought the Main Squeeze from Cleveland and it has also performed well.
I've never had any problems with their customer service.
You may want to purchase more clecos than the kit has.
I also bought the Avery Deburring tool.
(http://www.kane-king.com/rv7aproject/20040927.htm) <- this one. I highly
recommend it!
I just got a cheap Sears air compressor. It works just fine. I don't have
any tools that require a lot of air so it doesn't run that much.
Bill King
www.kane-king.com
>
> From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2004/10/11 Mon PM 09:40:20 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RV7-List: Air Compressor & Tools
>
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
> I am forgoing building a Cozy MK-IV (maybe 2% done) for an RV-7A for too
> many reasons to list and I have a few questions for those willing to
> answer.
>
> 1) Which tool kit would you recommend? (i.e. Avery, Cleveland, etc.)
>
> 2) Would a 21 Gallon air compressor be adequate for the building process?
>
> Thanks in advance for your guidance.
>
> Scott Shook
> RV-7A (Order Form ready to fax to Vans.)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron(at)aerojet.com> |
| Subject: | Air Compressor & Tools |
A 21-gallon tank should do nicely - it's more a matter of how quickly the
compressor will recharge the tank and how long you're willing to wait for
that to happen. No problem for rivet guns and drills, might slow you down a
bit with a die grinder or paint gun.
I'd stick with your current compressor and save the money for other items
(like panel goodies). However, if you ever feel like you need a bigger
compressor, I bought a 60-gallon/5 HP Husky from Home Depot for about $400
and have been extremely pleased with it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook
Subject: RV7-List: Air Compressor & Tools
Greetings everyone,
I am forgoing building a Cozy MK-IV (maybe 2% done) for an RV-7A for too
many reasons to list and I have a few questions for those willing to answer.
1) Which tool kit would you recommend? (i.e. Avery, Cleveland, etc.)
2) Would a 21 Gallon air compressor be adequate for the building process?
Thanks in advance for your guidance.
Scott Shook
RV-7A (Order Form ready to fax to Vans.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my progress
(and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not smart enough to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty. In
the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around, called
tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and web sites
looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I called had a
110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I mounted it and a
switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
________________________________________________________________________________
My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I track
time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there is no
reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour increments.
Now, if I could just find more time....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my progress
(and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not smart enough to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty. In
the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around, called
tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and web sites
looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I called had a
110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I mounted it and a
switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Log |
I also just use a web site as my log (www.openweave.org/RV7). It is a bit of
homebrew code that I put together to serve it all up ... as opposed to any
sort of commercial or freeware package. One of my requirements was that I put
my log in a format that allowed me to easily generate a formatted and printed
version, and I can do that *fairly* easily with what I have put together.
I also just round .. but to the nearest 15 minutes. I agree that there is no
way to track it to the minute. As to the "if I could just find more time"
part of Kathleen's comments ... I couldn't agree more!
-- Dwight
On Tue Oct 12 13:13:32 2004, Kathleen(at)rv7.us wrote :
>
>
>My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I track
>time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there is no
>reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour increments.
>Now, if I could just find more time....
>
>Kathleen Evans
>www.rv7.us
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
>AU/PC
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
>
>
>
>I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my progress
>(and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not smart enough to
>make it better. And it's paid for.
>
>For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty. In
>the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around, called
>tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and web sites
>looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I called had a
>110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I mounted it and a
>switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
>
>Neal George
>RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>
>>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>>what you are using for a builders log.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Left hand vs right hand |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Hi all,
I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been done in my current
zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two interconnected
throttles, on the left for me and on the right for my PX.
I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while trying to land from
the right seat with about 70 hours of experience right after getting my
ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right now, believe me you
wouldn't be the first.
Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed hands.
So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick in left...i.e
opposite to what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s concept is coming into
view again.
So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going for the throttle in
the left and RH on the stick. I note that grand website master Dan
Checkoway did it but the quadrant is a bit on the ugly side for me. With
three levers though I'm not sure what else to do.
The other issue is that I like to at least give my Wife a fighting
chance to walk away from the wreckage should any of my vital bodily
functions decide to fail...Apparently we only have on heart....What a
crappy design that is....:)
So that would mean at least a dual interconnected throttle, not easy
unless you have a solid rod rather than cable throttles.
Any thoughts?
Frank
P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn so could you please
update your website?....:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kathleen(at)rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I
track time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there
is no reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour
increments. Now, if I could just find more time....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my
progress (and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not
smart enough to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty.
In the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around,
called tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and
web sites looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I
called had a 110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I
mounted it and a switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cary rhodes <rhodeseng(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand vs right hand |
frank
flying with the left hoof is really not much of a
transition.
you'll get comfortable with it in a hurry.
Personally I would go to all the complications of a
dual system.
Keep it simple, you'll be glad you did.
cary rhodes
--- "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
wrote:
> (Corvallis)"
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been
> done in my current
> zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two
> interconnected
> throttles, on the left for me and on the right for
> my PX.
>
> I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while
> trying to land from
> the right seat with about 70 hours of experience
> right after getting my
> ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right
> now, believe me you
> wouldn't be the first.
>
> Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed
> hands.
>
> So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick
> in left...i.e
> opposite to what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s
> concept is coming into
> view again.
>
> So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going
> for the throttle in
> the left and RH on the stick. I note that grand
> website master Dan
> Checkoway did it but the quadrant is a bit on the
> ugly side for me. With
> three levers though I'm not sure what else to do.
>
> The other issue is that I like to at least give my
> Wife a fighting
> chance to walk away from the wreckage should any of
> my vital bodily
> functions decide to fail...Apparently we only have
> on heart....What a
> crappy design that is....:)
>
> So that would mean at least a dual interconnected
> throttle, not easy
> unless you have a solid rod rather than cable
> throttles.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Frank
>
> P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn
> so could you please
> update your website?....:)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of
> Kathleen(at)rv7.us
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
>
>
>
> My website and a few other notes are all I do for a
> builder's log. I
> track time in the workshop as time on the project.
> Feeling that there
> is no reasonable way to track it to the minute, I
> round to half hour
> increments. Now, if I could just find more time....
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of George Neal E
> Capt AU/PC
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
>
> AU/PC
>
>
> I use KitLog to manage the written record and
> relevant photos of my
> progress (and mistakes). I don't particularly like
> it, but I'm not
> smart enough to
> make it better. And it's paid for.
>
> For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to
> add a little novelty.
> In the months leading up to my first sub-kit order,
> I looked around,
> called tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed
> through catalogues and
> web sites looking for an inexpensive unit. One of
> the boat shops that I
> called had a 110v unit that was intended for a
> generator - $10. I
> mounted it and a switch in a 4" galvanized
> electrical box.
>
> Neal George
> RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>
> >I would like to find out how most of you are
> tracking your time and
> >what you are using for a builders log.
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV7-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Left hand vs right hand |
Frank,
What you may not know is that Dan is a southpaw so he is naturally
handicapped and can't fly using his left hand. He sure can build
airplanes and websites. Don BTW Dan if you caught my last web entry you
will see that I am even more handicapped!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
Hi all,
I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been done in my current
zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two interconnected
throttles, on the left for me and on the right for my PX.
I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while trying to land from
the right seat with about 70 hours of experience right after getting my
ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right now, believe me you
wouldn't be the first.
Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed hands.
So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick in left...i.e
opposite to what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s concept is coming into
view again.
So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going for the throttle in
the left and RH on the stick. I note that grand website master Dan
Checkoway did it but the quadrant is a bit on the ugly side for me. With
three levers though I'm not sure what else to do.
The other issue is that I like to at least give my Wife a fighting
chance to walk away from the wreckage should any of my vital bodily
functions decide to fail...Apparently we only have on heart....What a
crappy design that is....:)
So that would mean at least a dual interconnected throttle, not easy
unless you have a solid rod rather than cable throttles.
Any thoughts?
Frank
P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn so could you please
update your website?....:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kathleen(at)rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I
track time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there
is no reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour
increments. Now, if I could just find more time....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my
progress (and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not
smart enough to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty.
In the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around,
called tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and
web sites looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I
called had a 110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I
mounted it and a switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Left hand vs right hand |
Frank,
I have given this a lot of thought and don't think there is a right (:-)
correct) answer. I like the left-on-the-stick and right hand for throttle
work and radios arrangement. My husband likes to fly from the right seat
most of the time. When he flies solo, he uses the right seat except in the
Mooney which has no brakes on the right. In our situation, the normal
configuration works well.
Mostly, I believe that whatever you do, you should allow for flight from
either seat. 1) You never know what your future flight circumstance will be
and, 2) You may want to sell your plane some day.
I don't find any difference in flying left seat or right, but I like the
left seat with left hand on a stick or yoke, so that's going to be my
primary flight position. You really have to sit in an airplane and think
about what works for you. It's your airplane, YOU have to be comfortable.
No one can tell you which is best for you....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
Hi all,
I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been done in my current
zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two interconnected
throttles, on the left for me and on the right for my PX.
I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while trying to land from
the right seat with about 70 hours of experience right after getting my
ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right now, believe me you
wouldn't be the first.
Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed hands.
So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick in left...i.e
opposite to what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s concept is coming into
view again.
So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going for the throttle in
the left and RH on the stick. I note that grand website master Dan
Checkoway did it but the quadrant is a bit on the ugly side for me. With
three levers though I'm not sure what else to do.
The other issue is that I like to at least give my Wife a fighting
chance to walk away from the wreckage should any of my vital bodily
functions decide to fail...Apparently we only have on heart....What a
crappy design that is....:)
So that would mean at least a dual interconnected throttle, not easy
unless you have a solid rod rather than cable throttles.
Any thoughts?
Frank
P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn so could you please
update your website?....:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kathleen(at)rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I
track time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there
is no reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour
increments. Now, if I could just find more time....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my
progress (and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not
smart enough to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty.
In the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around,
called tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and
web sites looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I
called had a 110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I
mounted it and a switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Left hand vs right hand |
I've heard both sides of this discussion several times, too. I'm right
handed and I prefer to fly the plane with the left hand so I can use my
RIGHT hand to adjust throttle, change radio frequencies, write clearances,
etc. Seems the same as a C-150 to me. When I flare in a C-150, I'm flying
the plane with my left hand and have the right hand at the ready on
throttle, flaps, etc. For me, flying from the right seat is awkward, NOT
from the left hand vs. right hand debate, but rather from the visual
appearance over the cowling. If I ever become an instructor, I'm told I
will get used to it.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Kathleen(at)rv7.us [mailto:Kathleen(at)rv7.us]
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
Frank,
I have given this a lot of thought and don't think there is a right (:-)
correct) answer. I like the left-on-the-stick and right hand for throttle
work and radios arrangement. My husband likes to fly from the right seat
most of the time. When he flies solo, he uses the right seat except in the
Mooney which has no brakes on the right. In our situation, the normal
configuration works well.
Mostly, I believe that whatever you do, you should allow for flight from
either seat. 1) You never know what your future flight circumstance will be
and, 2) You may want to sell your plane some day.
I don't find any difference in flying left seat or right, but I like the
left seat with left hand on a stick or yoke, so that's going to be my
primary flight position. You really have to sit in an airplane and think
about what works for you. It's your airplane, YOU have to be comfortable.
No one can tell you which is best for you....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
Hi all,
I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been done in my current
zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two interconnected
throttles, on the left for me and on the right for my PX.
I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while trying to land from the
right seat with about 70 hours of experience right after getting my
ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right now, believe me you
wouldn't be the first.
Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed hands.
So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick in left...i.e opposite to
what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s concept is coming into view again.
So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going for the throttle in the
left and RH on the stick. I note that grand website master Dan Checkoway did
it but the quadrant is a bit on the ugly side for me. With three levers
though I'm not sure what else to do.
The other issue is that I like to at least give my Wife a fighting chance to
walk away from the wreckage should any of my vital bodily functions decide
to fail...Apparently we only have on heart....What a crappy design that
is....:)
So that would mean at least a dual interconnected throttle, not easy unless
you have a solid rod rather than cable throttles.
Any thoughts?
Frank
P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn so could you please
update your website?....:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen(at)rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I track
time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there is no
reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour increments.
Now, if I could just find more time....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my progress
(and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not smart enough to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty. In
the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around, called
tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and web sites
looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I called had a
110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I mounted it and a
switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brunke" <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net> |
I'm doing my first tire change on an RV-6 that I bought last year. (starting -7
tail kit this winter). I have one of Vans axle jacks that you slide the tire
onto to remove it.
Since the aircraft has wheel pants the hub nut is solid so I had to remove that
before I could install the jack.
My question: Can you intall the wheel, let the jack down and still get the correct
tork on the hub nut while the wheel is resting on the ground? Thanks in
advance.
John Brunke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Yikes! Be careful -- wheel halves have been known to separate and kill
people. Or at least take out a chunk of skull. NEVER handle a wheel with
the tire inflated. Only inflate it once the wheel halves are captured with
the axle nut.
Now to answer your question...
You're supposed to hollow out the end of the axle nut and use a little steel
screw-on bracket for the wheel pant attach nutplate. Photos here:
http://www.rvproject.com/20030411.html (bottom of the page)
That way, the order is like this:
1) Remove the wheel pant
2) Remove the inner brake pad
3) Remove the attach bracket from the axle nut
4) Remove the cotter pin
5) Insert the jack stand
6) Jack it up
7) Deflate the tire (I completely remove the valve from the valve stem)
8) Remove the axle nut
9) Slide the wheel & nut off the axle
Installation is the reverse -- don't inflate the tire until the wheel halves
are captured by the axle nut!!!
Be careful,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Brunke" <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: RV7-List: Tire Change
>
> I'm doing my first tire change on an RV-6 that I bought last year.
(starting -7 tail kit this winter). I have one of Vans axle jacks that you
slide the tire onto to remove it.
>
> Since the aircraft has wheel pants the hub nut is solid so I had to remove
that before I could install the jack.
>
> My question: Can you intall the wheel, let the jack down and still get
the correct tork on the hub nut while the wheel is resting on the ground?
Thanks in advance.
>
> John Brunke
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand vs right hand |
Aerobatics -- do your maneuvers to the left. Stick in right.
Formation -- throttle lever/quadrant, not friction control (DEFINITELY not
vernier).
Shoulder room.
Who cares about the passenger? He's lucky he has a stick (when I leave it
in) and some pedals, let alone brakes and a throttle. If somebody wants to
land your plane, pull the throttle on 'em. If they can't land without
power, they aren't landing my plane.
Handicap? I flew stick-in-left at first with Alex (training), and I hated
it. Fingers on a chalkboard comes to mind. After the first landing I got
out and flew from the right instead. It's not like I couldn't fly that way,
it's just unnatural for me. Southpaw or not, it went against a pattern that
had become very comfortable. My right arm is stronger, and I much prefer to
use that arm on the stick. When I do aerobatics, I'm happy that rolling to
the left is a push, not a pull.
Do it your way.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
>
> I've heard both sides of this discussion several times, too. I'm right
> handed and I prefer to fly the plane with the left hand so I can use my
> RIGHT hand to adjust throttle, change radio frequencies, write clearances,
> etc. Seems the same as a C-150 to me. When I flare in a C-150, I'm
flying
> the plane with my left hand and have the right hand at the ready on
> throttle, flaps, etc. For me, flying from the right seat is awkward, NOT
> from the left hand vs. right hand debate, but rather from the visual
> appearance over the cowling. If I ever become an instructor, I'm told I
> will get used to it.
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kathleen(at)rv7.us [mailto:Kathleen(at)rv7.us]
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
>
>
> Frank,
> I have given this a lot of thought and don't think there is a right (:-)
> correct) answer. I like the left-on-the-stick and right hand for throttle
> work and radios arrangement. My husband likes to fly from the right seat
> most of the time. When he flies solo, he uses the right seat except in
the
> Mooney which has no brakes on the right. In our situation, the normal
> configuration works well.
>
> Mostly, I believe that whatever you do, you should allow for flight from
> either seat. 1) You never know what your future flight circumstance will
be
> and, 2) You may want to sell your plane some day.
>
> I don't find any difference in flying left seat or right, but I like the
> left seat with left hand on a stick or yoke, so that's going to be my
> primary flight position. You really have to sit in an airplane and think
> about what works for you. It's your airplane, YOU have to be comfortable.
> No one can tell you which is best for you....
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
> George (Corvallis)
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been done in my current
> zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two interconnected
> throttles, on the left for me and on the right for my PX.
>
> I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while trying to land from
the
> right seat with about 70 hours of experience right after getting my
> ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right now, believe me you
> wouldn't be the first.
>
> Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed hands.
>
> So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick in left...i.e opposite
to
> what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s concept is coming into view again.
>
> So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going for the throttle in the
> left and RH on the stick. I note that grand website master Dan Checkoway
did
> it but the quadrant is a bit on the ugly side for me. With three levers
> though I'm not sure what else to do.
>
> The other issue is that I like to at least give my Wife a fighting chance
to
> walk away from the wreckage should any of my vital bodily functions decide
> to fail...Apparently we only have on heart....What a crappy design that
> is....:)
>
> So that would mean at least a dual interconnected throttle, not easy
unless
> you have a solid rod rather than cable throttles.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Frank
>
> P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn so could you please
> update your website?....:)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen(at)rv7.us
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
>
>
> My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I
track
> time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there is no
> reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour increments.
> Now, if I could just find more time....
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt
> AU/PC
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
>
>
>
> I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my
progress
> (and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not smart enough to
> make it better. And it's paid for.
>
> For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty. In
> the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around, called
> tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and web sites
> looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I called had
a
> 110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I mounted it and a
> switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
>
> Neal George
> RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>
> >I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
> >what you are using for a builders log.
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck aka Charlie Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor & Tools |
Scott,
I gave up on a Cozy MK-IV for a 7A also. After flying RV's a few times, I
now realize it was one of the best decisions I ever made. I got my tool kit
from Avery. It is enough to get you started but then buying a band saw
later from Harbor Freight might help make small parts faster than a hacksaw.
A 21 gal air compressor is adequate. Mine is a 17 gal. It still works and
my airframe is complete. When cutting the Plexiglas for the canopy, I did
have to wait a few times between cuts to let the pressure rebuild....but no
real problem though.
Chuck Imken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV7-List: Air Compressor & Tools
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
> I am forgoing building a Cozy MK-IV (maybe 2% done) for an RV-7A for too
> many reasons to list and I have a few questions for those willing to
answer.
>
> 1) Which tool kit would you recommend? (i.e. Avery, Cleveland, etc.)
>
> 2) Would a 21 Gallon air compressor be adequate for the building process?
>
> Thanks in advance for your guidance.
>
> Scott Shook
> RV-7A (Order Form ready to fax to Vans.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis(at)defence.gov.au> |
| Subject: | Left hand vs right hand |
Flying with stick in left or right hand is purely a matter of personal
preference. The joy of homebuilding is that you can customise your creation.
My choice is right handed sticks and two left handed throttles. Here is how
it will be done:
Throttle quadrant on left hand of P1. The ideal position for a hand control
is 3 inches aft of the knee, at thigh height. So my quadrant will be cut
into the armrest. The quadrant will be a 3 lever deal.
To keep the dual throttle arrangement simple the centre throttle will be a
simple push/pull deal. Both throttle cables will join at the carby, again to
keep it simple and minimise friction.
Have fun arguing about it, just remember that every home builder is right.
David Francis, Canberra, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Reese" <waynereese(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Left hand vs right hand |
A year or so ago a passed the email address of John Hafen (Major
General) along to someone here because he installed two throttle
controls. It is unnerving to be in the right seat and watch the
throttle move without seeing any hand on it.
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hull, Don
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
I've heard both sides of this discussion several times, too. I'm right
handed and I prefer to fly the plane with the left hand so I can use my
RIGHT hand to adjust throttle, change radio frequencies, write
clearances,
etc. Seems the same as a C-150 to me. When I flare in a C-150, I'm
flying
the plane with my left hand and have the right hand at the ready on
throttle, flaps, etc. For me, flying from the right seat is awkward,
NOT
from the left hand vs. right hand debate, but rather from the visual
appearance over the cowling. If I ever become an instructor, I'm told I
will get used to it.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Kathleen(at)rv7.us [mailto:Kathleen(at)rv7.us]
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
Frank,
I have given this a lot of thought and don't think there is a right (:-)
correct) answer. I like the left-on-the-stick and right hand for
throttle
work and radios arrangement. My husband likes to fly from the right
seat
most of the time. When he flies solo, he uses the right seat except in
the
Mooney which has no brakes on the right. In our situation, the normal
configuration works well.
Mostly, I believe that whatever you do, you should allow for flight from
either seat. 1) You never know what your future flight circumstance
will be
and, 2) You may want to sell your plane some day.
I don't find any difference in flying left seat or right, but I like the
left seat with left hand on a stick or yoke, so that's going to be my
primary flight position. You really have to sit in an airplane and
think
about what works for you. It's your airplane, YOU have to be
comfortable.
No one can tell you which is best for you....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
Hi all,
I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been done in my current
zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two interconnected
throttles, on the left for me and on the right for my PX.
I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while trying to land from
the
right seat with about 70 hours of experience right after getting my
ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right now, believe me you
wouldn't be the first.
Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed hands.
So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick in left...i.e
opposite to
what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s concept is coming into view again.
So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going for the throttle in
the
left and RH on the stick. I note that grand website master Dan Checkoway
did
it but the quadrant is a bit on the ugly side for me. With three levers
though I'm not sure what else to do.
The other issue is that I like to at least give my Wife a fighting
chance to
walk away from the wreckage should any of my vital bodily functions
decide
to fail...Apparently we only have on heart....What a crappy design that
is....:)
So that would mean at least a dual interconnected throttle, not easy
unless
you have a solid rod rather than cable throttles.
Any thoughts?
Frank
P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn so could you please
update your website?....:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kathleen(at)rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I
track
time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there is no
reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour
increments.
Now, if I could just find more time....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt
AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my
progress
(and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not smart enough
to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty.
In
the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around, called
tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and web sites
looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I called
had a
110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I mounted it and a
switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
==
==
==
==
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cary rhodes <rhodeseng(at)yahoo.com> |
john
torque is probably not going to be an issue.
The axle is drilled with the nut to accept a cotter
pin.
You will have to hunt the hole to line up with the
matching hole in the cap nut.
certified planes ususlly have multiple locations to
place the cotter pin, ie castle nut or threaded ring,
but the rv is custom drilled only in one position.
keep the left and right nut separate so they go back
on the same axle.
cary rhodes
--- John Brunke wrote:
>
>
> I'm doing my first tire change on an RV-6 that I
> bought last year. (starting -7 tail kit this
> winter). I have one of Vans axle jacks that you
> slide the tire onto to remove it.
>
> Since the aircraft has wheel pants the hub nut is
> solid so I had to remove that before I could install
> the jack.
>
> My question: Can you intall the wheel, let the jack
> down and still get the correct tork on the hub nut
> while the wheel is resting on the ground? Thanks in
> advance.
>
> John Brunke
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV7-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Wiley" <geowiley(at)ussonet.net> |
| Subject: | Left hand vs right hand |
Please remove me from the RV7 mailing list.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kathleen(at)rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
Frank,
I have given this a lot of thought and don't think there is a right (:-)
correct) answer. I like the left-on-the-stick and right hand for
throttle
work and radios arrangement. My husband likes to fly from the right
seat
most of the time. When he flies solo, he uses the right seat except in
the
Mooney which has no brakes on the right. In our situation, the normal
configuration works well.
Mostly, I believe that whatever you do, you should allow for flight from
either seat. 1) You never know what your future flight circumstance
will be
and, 2) You may want to sell your plane some day.
I don't find any difference in flying left seat or right, but I like the
left seat with left hand on a stick or yoke, so that's going to be my
primary flight position. You really have to sit in an airplane and
think
about what works for you. It's your airplane, YOU have to be
comfortable.
No one can tell you which is best for you....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RV7-List: Left hand vs right hand
Hi all,
I have about 450 hours TT and most of that has been done in my current
zenair zodiac with a center stick. Hence it has two interconnected
throttles, on the left for me and on the right for my PX.
I had rather nasty incident (crash) in a C152 while trying to land from
the right seat with about 70 hours of experience right after getting my
ticket.....If your saying dumba*s in your head right now, believe me you
wouldn't be the first.
Most of the crash was caused by the fact I changed hands.
So of course, the RV7a is throttle in RH and stick in left...i.e
opposite to what I fly now.....hmm... The dumba*s concept is coming into
view again.
So I wondered what you all thought of maybe going for the throttle in
the left and RH on the stick. I note that grand website master Dan
Checkoway did it but the quadrant is a bit on the ugly side for me. With
three levers though I'm not sure what else to do.
The other issue is that I like to at least give my Wife a fighting
chance to walk away from the wreckage should any of my vital bodily
functions decide to fail...Apparently we only have on heart....What a
crappy design that is....:)
So that would mean at least a dual interconnected throttle, not easy
unless you have a solid rod rather than cable throttles.
Any thoughts?
Frank
P.s, Dan my lunchtime reading has taken a downturn so could you please
update your website?....:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Kathleen(at)rv7.us
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
My website and a few other notes are all I do for a builder's log. I
track time in the workshop as time on the project. Feeling that there
is no reasonable way to track it to the minute, I round to half hour
increments. Now, if I could just find more time....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Builders Log
I use KitLog to manage the written record and relevant photos of my
progress (and mistakes). I don't particularly like it, but I'm not
smart enough to
make it better. And it's paid for.
For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty.
In the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around,
called tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and
web sites looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I
called had a 110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I
mounted it and a switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG, wings
>I would like to find out how most of you are tracking your time and
>what you are using for a builders log.
==
==
==
==
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bellwa77(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
Hello everyone,
I just ordered the tail kit, all the Avery tools, air compressor, a bunch of
stuff from harbour freight and signed up for the RV Assembly Sport Air
workshop. I have been overseas in the Middle East for the past 12 years following
this email list and watching everyones progress on the web, especially Dan
Chekoway's fantastic and detailed site. I pretty much went to his tools section
and
oordered everything he had described there. The last decision to make before
beginning is primer.
At the risk of irritating eveyone with my first email, I am going to ask a
primer question. Before everybody flames me, I will tell you that I have done an
extensive search of the matronics list and read as much as I could find about
priming all over the web. Doing that actually confused me more. What I would
like is to gather is as much opinion as possible on AFS waterborne
primer/sealer. There was very little information in the list and almost none on
the web
with the exception of the AFS website itself and Andy Karmy's RV9 website and
an article he wrote for EAA. So flame me if you must but opinions would be
appreciated.
Andy Bell
RV7 or 7A
bellwa77(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
I have used the AFS primer on my RV9A (not flying yet). It goes on
quite nicely and bonds tenaciously to the aluminum. I frequently paint
the parts first and then dimple - the paint takes the dimpling without a
whimper. I can't vouch for its long term performance - you will have to
look at their website for that information, although the parts I painted
almost two years ago look just like they did when first painted. The
really nice thing about it is that it is water based so the cleanup is
easy and there is no bad smell or dangerous fumes.
Dick Tasker
Bellwa77(at)AOL.com wrote:
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>I just ordered the tail kit, all the Avery tools, air compressor, a bunch of
>stuff from harbour freight and signed up for the RV Assembly Sport Air
>workshop. I have been overseas in the Middle East for the past 12 years following
>this email list and watching everyones progress on the web, especially Dan
>Chekoway's fantastic and detailed site. I pretty much went to his tools section
and
>oordered everything he had described there. The last decision to make before
>beginning is primer.
>
>At the risk of irritating eveyone with my first email, I am going to ask a
>primer question. Before everybody flames me, I will tell you that I have done
an
>extensive search of the matronics list and read as much as I could find about
>priming all over the web. Doing that actually confused me more. What I would
>like is to gather is as much opinion as possible on AFS waterborne
>primer/sealer. There was very little information in the list and almost none on
the web
>with the exception of the AFS website itself and Andy Karmy's RV9 website and
>an article he wrote for EAA. So flame me if you must but opinions would be
>appreciated.
>
>Andy Bell
>RV7 or 7A
>bellwa77(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com> |
| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
15:05:15,
Serialize by Router on slcnot1/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at 10/13/2004
15:05:17,
Serialize complete at 10/13/2004 15:05:17,
Itemize by SMTP Server on sctmnot9/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at
10/13/2004
17:05:17,
Serialize by Router on sctmnot9/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at 10/13/2004
17:05:17,
Serialize complete at 10/13/2004 17:05:17
I'm using AFS primer on my empennage kit and have been quite happy with it.
I don't think it is quite as tough as 2-part epoxy, but it is wonderful to
use. Water clean-up and no noxious fumes. It sprays quite well - I've been
using a Harbor Freight HPLV touch-up gun, and use it straight out of the
jar. No complaints.
Bob Smith
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Bellwa77(at)AOL.com
Subject: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
Hello everyone,
I just ordered the tail kit, all the Avery tools, air compressor, a bunch of
stuff from harbour freight and signed up for the RV Assembly Sport Air
workshop. I have been overseas in the Middle East for the past 12 years
following
this email list and watching everyones progress on the web, especially Dan
Chekoway's fantastic and detailed site. I pretty much went to his tools
section and
oordered everything he had described there. The last decision to make before
beginning is primer.
At the risk of irritating eveyone with my first email, I am going to ask a
primer question. Before everybody flames me, I will tell you that I have
done an
extensive search of the matronics list and read as much as I could find
about
priming all over the web. Doing that actually confused me more. What I would
like is to gather is as much opinion as possible on AFS waterborne
primer/sealer. There was very little information in the list and almost none
on the web
with the exception of the AFS website itself and Andy Karmy's RV9 website
and
an article he wrote for EAA. So flame me if you must but opinions would be
appreciated.
Andy Bell
RV7 or 7A
bellwa77(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
Welcome Andy
My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what was
I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of it
as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't like
the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
Wings - and short on clecos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
AU/PC
Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
Welcome Andy
My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what was
I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of it
as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't like
the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG
Wings - and short on clecos
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
Brian Meyette wrote:
>
> What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
Aircraft Finishing Systems:
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com
They manufacture and sell water based polyurethane
paints.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
#90338 - Finishing!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/
Dick Tasker
Brian Meyette wrote:
>
>What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
>brian
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
>AU/PC
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
>
>
>
>Welcome Andy
>
>My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what was
>I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
>
>Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
>dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of it
>as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
>respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
>reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
>Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
>moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
>
>I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't like
>the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
>with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
>
>Neal
>RV-7 N8ZG
>Wings - and short on clecos
>
>
>---
>
>---
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | RV7 primer primer |
Thanks, Dick! I believe you were working on an alternative electrical
system for the Eggenfellner engines. How is that coming along?
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard E. Tasker
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/
Dick Tasker
Brian Meyette wrote:
>
>What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
>brian
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
>AU/PC
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
>
>
>
>Welcome Andy
>
>My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what
was
>I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
>
>Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
>dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of
it
>as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
>respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
>reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
>Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
>moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
>
>I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't
like
>the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
>with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
>
>Neal
>RV-7 N8ZG
>Wings - and short on clecos
>
>
>---
>
>---
>
>
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
Well, the one I originally designed for my plane is basically done
except for final testing. However, the one I volunteered to design for
the Subaru group didn't go anywhere because everyone had different
opinions on what they wanted it to do - many of them conflicting. So I
ended up doing nothing more on it.
Dick Tasker
Brian Meyette wrote:
>
>Thanks, Dick! I believe you were working on an alternative electrical
>system for the Eggenfellner engines. How is that coming along?
>brian
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard E. Tasker
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com.Gecko/20040803
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
>
>
>http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/
>
>Dick Tasker
>
>Brian Meyette wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>What exactly is the AFS the last 3 messages referred to?
>>brian
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E Capt
>>AU/PC
>>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7 primer primer
>>
>>
>>
>>Welcome Andy
>>
>>My tail has an assortment of SW-988 (expensive garbage), Rustoleum (what
>>
>>
>was
>
>
>>I thinking) and VeriPrime (good stuff, but needs a topcoat).
>>
>>Were I to start over, I'd use AFS to prime the contact points where
>>dissimilar metals meet and alodine the extruded parts. Leave the rest of
>>
>>
>it
>
>
>>as-is. The other primers are all great as an integral part of their
>>respective finishing systems, but according to all the literature and sales
>>reps, offer no moisture barrier - they are intended to be top-coated.
>>Without a top-coat they are porous and would actually attract and wick
>>moisture and the stuff dissolved in it.
>>
>>I used screws and nutplates to mount my fiberglass tips. I still don't
>>
>>
>like
>
>
>>the idea of using pop rivets. After the plane is painted I will treat it
>>with Corrosion-X. Can't do that with the tips on.
>>
>>Neal
>>RV-7 N8ZG
>>Wings - and short on clecos
>>
>>
>>---
>>
>>---
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>---
>
>---
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Slobovia Outernational BBQ 2 day warning |
We hope to see you here at Slobovia Outernational Saturday morning to
eat BBQ & talk airplanes. We expect to have a good turnout of homebuilts
& classics, with some alternative engines in the mix.
Info on Slobovia (MS71) can be found at
http://www.airnav.com/airport/MS71 or you can email me direct for
driving directions.
Charlie
flying RV-4; RV-7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bellwa77(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
Thanks for all the responses on the AFS primer and primer in general. Based
on your responses and Dan's new outlook on priming, I will probably go with AFS
on non Alclad parts and Alclad that has been scratched up. I am not sure
about priming the Alcad parts in general because I wonder if the AFS ectching
stuff destroys the Alclad protection.
I have four kids and a dog running around here and just don't want to mess
with that nasty stuff. I wonder if alot of us have been obsessing over priming
these things anyway. This plane probably outlive me without primer.
Frank, I'll give you a call if (when?) I get stuck. I am really going to put
Van's claim to the test that someone with average skills can build one of
these. I had trouble getting the wheels on my compressor! HA
Dan, I'll be placing an order for your DVD website in the near furture.
Thanks again
RV7? or RV7A?, Tip Up? or Slider?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
Bellwa77(at)AOL.com wrote:
>
>Thanks for all the responses on the AFS primer and primer in general. Based
>on your responses and Dan's new outlook on priming, I will probably go with AFS
>on non Alclad parts and Alclad that has been scratched up. I am not sure
>about priming the Alcad parts in general because I wonder if the AFS ectching
>stuff destroys the Alclad protection.
>
>
Unless you get really violent with the abrasive pads, the etching
cleaner only etches the oxide off of the surface of the alclad and
roughs up the surface microscopically so if you want to prime the alclad
do it without worries. On the other hand, depending where you live and
will keep your plane, painting the alclad may be entirely unnecessary
and a waste of time. I did prime mine with AFS since I may end up
living near the coast (salt air and all) when I retire in a few years.
Whether it will really make any difference my grandchildren will have to
find out (and my sons are still in college).
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Log |
In a message dated 10/12/04 10:41:42 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil writes:
>
> For keeping track of time, I use a Hobbs meter to add a little novelty. In
> the months leading up to my first sub-kit order, I looked around, called
> tractor dealers, marine dealers, leafed through catalogues and web sites
> looking for an inexpensive unit. One of the boat shops that I called had a
> 110v unit that was intended for a generator - $10. I mounted it and a
> switch in a 4" galvanized electrical box.
>
> Neal George
> RV-7 N8ZG, wings
Neal,
That's a great idea. I'm going to do that on my next project. As soon as I
recuperate from building my first airplane.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying about 60 hours.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Douglas <adouglas(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder question |
Dave;
According to Van's you don't actually need Proseal in the rudder. Go to the
FAQ page on the Van's website and download the PDF called "materials used
in Van's aircraft." It's 24 pages of very useful stuff, including this:
==========
Before doing the final riveting, put
a dab of RTV or tank sealant at the inside of the skin where the two
stiffeners overlap. This will tie the stiffeners
together. A dab about the size of some chewing gum will do the job and
prevent the skins from cracking at this
point due to vibration.
===========
So, all you need is some sort of goop in there....doesn't need to be
Proseal.
Andrew Douglas
Bridgeport, CT
RV wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Douglas <adouglas(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
I was just at the AFS website looking at the page for the primer/sealer, and
saw this:
=====
Spraying - reduce with distilled water to 20-25 seconds Dupont M50.
=====
Which I assume means to thin it to a certain point. Dupont M50 is obviously
a measure of viscosity...possibly measured by pouring a liquid through a
calibrated funnel and timing it???
Is anyone who's using the AFS primer doing this? Is there some sort of tool
used to measure it?
Andrew Douglas
Bridgeport, CT
RV wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Stringham <fstringham7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer - Dupont M50 |
Andrew
I use AFS and found my viscocity cup (Dupont M50) at a local Auto paint store.
Frank @SGU & SLC
---------------------------------
vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 primer primer |
10:18:37,
Serialize by Router on slcnot1/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at 10/18/2004
10:18:39,
Serialize complete at 10/18/2004 10:18:39,
Itemize by SMTP Server on sctmnot9/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at
10/18/2004
12:18:39,
Serialize by Router on sctmnot9/SCT(Release 6.0.4|June 01, 2004) at 10/18/2004
12:18:41,
Serialize complete at 10/18/2004 12:18:41
You can order the viscosity cup with the paint from AFS. I actually have
not thinned mine at all - the primer seems about right straight out of the
bottle, and sprays fine with my touch-up gun. But you can use the cup and
thin if you so desire to make sure it is "perfect."
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andrew Douglas
Subject: RV7-List: Re: RV7 primer primer
I was just at the AFS website looking at the page for the primer/sealer, and
saw this:
=====
Spraying - reduce with distilled water to 20-25 seconds Dupont M50.
=====
Which I assume means to thin it to a certain point. Dupont M50 is obviously
a measure of viscosity...possibly measured by pouring a liquid through a
calibrated funnel and timing it???
Is anyone who's using the AFS primer doing this? Is there some sort of tool
used to measure it?
Andrew Douglas
Bridgeport, CT
RV wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Figgins <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> |
Does anyone have a manual for the 214 squeezer?
Thanks
Dave Figgins empennage (wing kit in December)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Neal George
Subject: 110v Hobbs Meter
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL.10.23.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Olech" <olechap(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Squeezing out bad rivets |
I'm a beginning riveter, and I've just started trying to rivet the Vertical
stabilizer main spar to the doubler plate with some 470AD4-6's (RV7). I'm
somewhat new to this and slightly frustrated with the results I've been
getting so far. The rivets all seem to begin to 'glance' off toward the
C-shape portion of the yoke and then fall to one side and look ugly or
sometimes I end up shearing a portion of the shop head. I've tried
different techniques including the latest: squeezing ever-so-slightly and
re-aligning the squeezer to attempt to straighten it out; but having no luck
most of the time. I probably have <30-40% acceptance rate, far from zero
non-conformance =) I have the Tatco squeezer, and have helped a friend
squeeze these rivets on her RV-9, with the same type of squeezer and sets
with no problem and not nearly as much fuss. Has anyone else had issues
with these damn AD4's? Here's my current troubleshooting list:
1. Correct length? As far as I can tell, yes. The print calls for -6
rivets, and in measuring the combined metal thickness of 0.161 and the 1/8"
diameter x1.5 brings me to ~0.349 which is just too long for a -5.5 rivet
(.3125). The -6 is .375. I also am convinced that .026 too long will not
cause such a toppling over of the rivet.
2. Rivet quality/age? The bag is dated 08/27/2004 for the -6's and 4/21/04
for the -5's, don't think there should be any material composition/structure
change that rapidly unless they were in a big container sitting on a shelf
for a while before bagging... I have similar problems with -4 -5 -6
and -7's, both in and out of metal
3. Squeezer. Is the yoke slightly off at one end? I know these are high
quality squeezers, but does anyone think that a slight misalignment might
push the rivets toward the inside of the C? Kind of wishing I had someone
else's squeezer to try for a while... this seems to be the most plausable
reason so far.
4. Sets. Does having a slightly convexed flush set have any bearing on this
problem? I put two flush sets in the squeezer for grins and brought them
together to find them only touching in the center - they aren't perfectly
flat. Should I try to sand one flat? I really don't think this is the
problem either.
What am I missing? Any thoughts would be extremely helpful!
Thanks,
Andy Olech
Ellington, CT
RV-7 Tail section on hold until my inability to set rivets disappears
magically.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing out bad rivets |
In a message dated 10/25/04 9:15:15 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
olechap(at)comcast.net writes:
> 4. Sets. Does having a slightly convexed flush set have any bearing on
> this
> problem? I put two flush sets in the squeezer for grins and brought them
> together to find them only touching in the center - they aren't perfectly
> flat. Should I try to sand one flat? I really don't think this is the
> problem either.
>
> What am I missing? Any thoughts would be extremely helpful!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andy Olech
> Ellington, CT
>
Andy,
It is necessary to be really well centered on the rivet. Put a rivet in your
squeezer (no sheet metal, just the rivet) and center it up real well. When
you squeeze it, it should only get fatter, not bend over. Maybe your yoke is
not strong enough for the -4 rivets. It sounds like it may be deflecting, and
bending the rivets for that reason. A yoke with less reach will be stiffer,
and may fix your problem.
Hang in there. You'll be an expert in a few weeks.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing out bad rivets |
I don't have a hand squeezer, but all squeezers work basically the same,
so comments below...
Andrew Olech wrote:
>1. Correct length? As far as I can tell, yes. The print calls for -6
>rivets, and in measuring the combined metal thickness of 0.161 and the 1/8"
>diameter x1.5 brings me to ~0.349 which is just too long for a -5.5 rivet
>(.3125). The -6 is .375. I also am convinced that .026 too long will not
>cause such a toppling over of the rivet.
>
>
Unless the rivets are a lot too long, they will work. Being 0.026 too
long in definitely no problem. If it was, we wouldn't be able to build
the plane without cutting a lot of rivets.. By the way, -5.5 should be
0.3438, not 0.3125 (that is -5).
>2. Rivet quality/age? The bag is dated 08/27/2004 for the -6's and 4/21/04
>for the -5's, don't think there should be any material composition/structure
>change that rapidly unless they were in a big container sitting on a shelf
>for a while before bagging... I have similar problems with -4 -5 -6
>and -7's, both in and out of metal
>
>
Shouldn't be a problem with the rivets from Van's. In fact, the rivets
used are not really susceptible to change in characteristics due to
aging in any reasonable timeframe (years).
>3. Squeezer. Is the yoke slightly off at one end? I know these are high
>quality squeezers, but does anyone think that a slight misalignment might
>push the rivets toward the inside of the C? Kind of wishing I had someone
>else's squeezer to try for a while... this seems to be the most plausable
>reason so far.
>
>
I would bet on this if you have been able to squeeze rivets correctly
with someone else's squeezer (that you indicated earlier in the email).
Especially so if the rivet always bends in the one direction that you
seem to indicate. Any way to borrow hers for a day?
>4. Sets. Does having a slightly convexed flush set have any bearing on this
>problem? I put two flush sets in the squeezer for grins and brought them
>together to find them only touching in the center - they aren't perfectly
>flat. Should I try to sand one flat? I really don't think this is the
>problem either.
>
>
This is the normal shape for the flush sets. If they were flat, they
would mar the aluminum unless you kept them EXACTLY perpendicular to the
rivet/aluminum being set.
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis(at)defence.gov.au> |
| Subject: | Squeezing out bad rivets |
Andrew,
I am going to be adventurous and attempt coaching across 10,000 miles.
My first observation is that unless you are a weight lifter or gorilla hand
squeezing AD4 rivets is very difficult. I hand squeeze AD3 only, AD4 are
just beyond me and I either rivet them or use a pneumatic squeezer. So my
advice is avoid the problem altogether and use a different tool, preferably
powered.
A personal view, but I don't like the Tatco squeezers, and prefer the much
more substantial Avery squeezer. I would only use a Tatco where I have a
confined space that the smaller Tatco will go where the Avery wont.
If you choose to stick to a hand squeezer push hard on the manufactured head
while squeezing the handle, and keeping the squeezer straight. You will need
heaps of strength to do this with an AD4 rivet.
Email me offline if you need elaboration.
Regards, David Francis, VH-ZEE, Canberra, Australia.
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Olech [mailto:olechap(at)comcast.net]
Subject: RV7-List: Squeezing out bad rivets
I'm a beginning riveter, and I've just started trying to rivet the Vertical
stabilizer main spar to the doubler plate with some 470AD4-6's (RV7). I'm
somewhat new to this and slightly frustrated with the results I've been
getting so far.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Percy" <jimpercy(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing out bad rivets |
I may be stating the obvious here, but be sure to hold the squeezer handle that
is in line with the rivet shank stationary and move the other handle toward it-
if you move both handles toward each other the shop head will almost certainly
bend over. I don't own a pneumatic squeezer. The 1/8" rivets take a little
oomph but are certainly do-able by hand. Good luck!
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing out bad rivets |
Unless I am missing something in your writing you should be using a cupped
set of rivet sets, I ordered 2 of them from the yardstore.com. One side of the
rivet set is flat (obvious) the other for setting 470 or universal rivets is
convex. The rivet when held to the set should sit inside with only a small
amount of the rivet head showing. Second I put the cupped set in the top of the
squeezer and the flat set in the movable or bottom of the tool. I then pull
the rivet down to ensure a tight contact with the metal and squeeze. You
could alternate the sets in the tool as well. When finished the domed head should
look as good as a new one if you are applying pressure to hold the squeezer
tight to the head of the rivet.
I hope this helps.
T.S. 7A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Pitot tubing question |
I am completing my left wing (RV-7) and getting ready to install the pitot tubing.
The plans are a bit unclear in this area. I know the tubing passes through
the snap bushing to the wing root, however how have most of you terminated
the tubing. Did you leave a short length (at the root), flare it and bend it
90 degrees. Did you install a 90 degree bulkhead fitting in the root rib? If
so what was your procedure for flaring the end?
Any help would be appreciated.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Pitot tubing question |
Paul
I used nylo seal tubing and no fittings from about a foot from the pitot to
the inside of the cabin. It is basically the same method that Dan C used.
There are pictures on my web site. Don VS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Merems
rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV-9A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: Pitot tubing question
I am completing my left wing (RV-7) and getting ready to install the pitot
tubing. The plans are a bit unclear in this area. I know the tubing passes
through the snap bushing to the wing root, however how have most of you
terminated the tubing. Did you leave a short length (at the root), flare it
and bend it 90 degrees. Did you install a 90 degree bulkhead fitting in the
root rib? If so what was your procedure for flaring the end?
Any help would be appreciated.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tubing question |
Paul,
Be sure to check the latest construction FAQ on Van's site about pitot
tubing routing. If I recall they recommend that the tubing come inboard of
the root rib below and aft of the largest (forward-most) lightening hole. I
wish I knew this up front -- it's where I ended up routing mine in the long
run.
The fuselage has stuff in the way that you can't really penetrate if you try
to run the pitot tubing along the spar web. You gotta go aft and low. I
recommend a similar location for wiring run/conduit. I put mine up and
forward and that's FAR from ideal.
Hope this helps...keep it in mind when you decide how you want the tubing to
exit the wing and enter the fuselage.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Wiring.pdf
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Pitot tubing question
>
> Paul
> I used nylo seal tubing and no fittings from about a foot from the pitot
to
> the inside of the cabin. It is basically the same method that Dan C used.
> There are pictures on my web site. Don VS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Merems
> To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com; RV10 Group; RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com;
> rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV-9A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Pitot tubing question
>
>
> I am completing my left wing (RV-7) and getting ready to install the pitot
> tubing. The plans are a bit unclear in this area. I know the tubing
passes
> through the snap bushing to the wing root, however how have most of you
> terminated the tubing. Did you leave a short length (at the root), flare
it
> and bend it 90 degrees. Did you install a 90 degree bulkhead fitting in
the
> root rib? If so what was your procedure for flaring the end?
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Squeezing out bad rivets |
Andrew - a slightly different perspective to most of the other replies. I
have just squeezed the last rivet on an RV9a (though not flown it yet) and I
have done it all with a Tatco squeezer and a 2X gun. I am no expert but most
of my rivets are OK and I always preferred squeezing to gunning. It is
tiring on the hands though and if building a second I might get a bit more
oomph to save my hands. Perhaps a main squeeze.
My thought is that you are probably not getting the rivets quite in the
center of the dies since early on when I had them off centre I had similar
problems. In view of the fact that the dies are as you say convex this
appears to matter. Hope this helps, you will win! Also make sure there is no
crap UNDER the die where it slots in, and check them for symetry.
By the way do keep an eye on the rivet call out for accuracy. I am sure,
thinking back, some of the required lengths were too long when calculated.
This is true of bolts also.
Good luck, Steve.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Williams <Tramsootru(at)direcway.com> |
Hey guys-
When filing a flight plan with an RV6 on a 160 horse, what airspeed do you
file for? :)
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
Hey guys-
When filing a flight plan with an RV6 on a 160 horse, what airspeed do you
file for? :)
Jeff
-----------------------------------------------------
RV6-A 160 HP F/P (79") Sensenich @ 60-65% power = 145Kts and 7.95 US/GPH
average burn coast to coast & return.
George in Langley BC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Williams <Tramsootru(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 160 horse.. |
Thanks.. that solves a mild argument between myself and a friend.
----- Original Message -----
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV6 160 horse..
>
>
> Hey guys-
>
> When filing a flight plan with an RV6 on a 160 horse, what airspeed do you
> file for? :)
>
> Jeff
>
> -----------------------------------------------------
>
> RV6-A 160 HP F/P (79") Sensenich @ 60-65% power = 145Kts and 7.95 US/GPH
> average burn coast to coast & return.
>
> George in Langley BC.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Reed" <dreed(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | RV Newbie Question |
Hi All-
I just completed my RV-7 HS from an early kit that required building the
jig. While I was looking over my work (and a few minor mistakes).I noticed
something that has me concerned.
On the top left hand skin closest to the root and furthest aft I have a very
slight amount of "oil canning". The skin feels like it should be a little
tighter in this area. If I press down lightly on the trailing edge of the HS
it feels a bit better, but still just a little less taught than the opposite
side.
I was wondering if anyone had ever experienced this. And if so what they did
to rectify it. I am only about 30 min from Vans and am considering picking
up a new HS to complete while I await the arrival of my QB in February. The
second one always comes out better right?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks-
Dan
Dan Reed
Qualcomm Wireless Business Solutions
Office 800-544-4977 ext 86694
Mobile 503-260-2499
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis(at)defence.gov.au> |
| Subject: | sec: unclassified - Newbie Question: OIL CANNING |
Dan,
There is an unwritten convention among RV builders at fly-ins - never look
too hard at, or offer criticism of, a fellow builders empenage - that is
where the learning curve is. So please show me the empennage that does no
have some oil canning.
By all means seek advice from Vans, but I am pretty sure that the advice
will be - ignore it. It is unlikely to be an airworthiness problem. If you
have ever flown in an aluminium glider (L13 Blanik)in turbulence or aeros
you will hear a symphony of oil can bongs boings and bangs.
The only sure fire way to avoid oil canning is to get a hot air blower as
used on heat shrink and warm the area you are riveting. It will cool after
riveting to a lovely taught finish.
Once you have built in oil canning it will be there for you to admire
forever.
Keep on building - you can look forward to much bigger mistakes to solve -
trust me, but dont ask me how I know.
Regards, VH-ZEE, Canberra, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <nltiiii(at)bellsouth.net> |
Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir position/landing lights?
Nelson Tower
RV7 wings
fuse on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <richardglick(at)charter.net> |
Nelson,
I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door today. I
will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy in his
other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to get it
shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I am
looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
Richard Glick
----- Original Message -----
From: <nltiiii(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV7-List: lights
>
> Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
> position/landing lights?
>
> Nelson Tower
> RV7 wings
> fuse on order
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV Newbie Question |
| From: | "Neff, Mike" <NEFFM(at)tc.gc.ca> |
Hi Dan. As far as I know, the RV-7 does not require a jig (as opposed to a building
platform) to build the HS, or any of the other major components. As a matter
of fact, I understand that Vans discourages the use of a jig. Part of
the concept of the pre-punched holes is that no jig is needed and if you force
the part into a jig you might actually build it out of alignment. Your "oil-canning"
problem might be a symptom of this.
Mike Neff (RV-7 builder)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Reed
Subject: RV7-List: RV Newbie Question
Hi All-
I just completed my RV-7 HS from an early kit that required building the
jig. While I was looking over my work (and a few minor mistakes).I noticed
something that has me concerned.
On the top left hand skin closest to the root and furthest aft I have a very
slight amount of "oil canning". The skin feels like it should be a little
tighter in this area. If I press down lightly on the trailing edge of the HS
it feels a bit better, but still just a little less taught than the opposite
side.
I was wondering if anyone had ever experienced this. And if so what they did
to rectify it. I am only about 30 min from Vans and am considering picking
up a new HS to complete while I await the arrival of my QB in February. The
second one always comes out better right?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks-
Dan
Dan Reed
Qualcomm Wireless Business Solutions
Office 800-544-4977 ext 86694
Mobile 503-260-2499
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Newbie Question |
Neff, Mike wrote:
> As far as I know, the RV-7 does not require a jig (as opposed to a
> building platform) to build the HS, or any of the other major
> components. As a matter of fact, I understand that Vans discourages
> the use of a jig. Part of the concept of the pre-punched holes is
> that no jig is needed and if you force the part into a jig you might
> actually build it out of alignment. Your "oil-canning" problem might
> be a symptom of this.
You must have one of the later -7 kits if that was the case. Early -7
tail kits weren't fully pre-punched, the ribs and front spar came
un-punched and you have to align them with the (pre-punched) skins to
mark the holes. I wouldn't want to do that without a jig.
Later (and current) -7 tail kits come fully punched, so completely that
you can assemble the entire HS with clecos straight out of the box. I
can see where that would remove the need for a jig, but if your jig is
true I doubt it would hurt.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Lake <oai(at)direcway.com> |
Gentlemen:
I am building a RV-7 QB and am at the point where I am thinking about the wingtip
landing lights/position lights and the general wiring of the aircraft.
This is where I need help.
I don't know what gauge or type of wire goes where. Should I get one of those
wiring harnesses from Van's (I've heard that they are too much for what you
get) or build my own wire by wire?
Bob in Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
My Suggestions
1) Start by going to http://www.aeroelectric.com/ and ordering Bob's
book
2) Try to attend one of his seminars
3) Subscribe to the AeroElectric-List to ask electrical questions
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
4) Have your radios, intercom and navigational equipment pre-wired if
you can
5) Wire the rest of the airplane yourself
Ross Mickey
N9PT
-----Original Message-----
Gentlemen:
I am building a RV-7 QB and am at the point where I am thinking about
the wingtip landing lights/position lights and the general wiring of the
aircraft.
This is where I need help.
I don't know what gauge or type of wire goes where. Should I get one
of those wiring harnesses from Van's (I've heard that they are too much
for what you get) or build my own wire by wire?
Bob in Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)AOL.com |
Bob,
One place to start is to obtain Van's documentation and wiring diagrams
before you decide to order the kit. If you know of anyone close to you, maybe
you
can look over their diagrams. The individual circuits are very simple, but
there a lot of little decisions to make. The wire sizes, etc., are called out
in Van's plans.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH -- Flying since 7/7/04 -- 60+ hours
In a message dated 10/29/04 11:05:52 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
oai(at)direcway.com writes:
>
> Gentlemen:
> I am building a RV-7 QB and am at the point where I am thinking about the
> wingtip landing lights/position lights and the general wiring of the aircraft.
> This is where I need help.
> I don't know what gauge or type of wire goes where. Should I get one of
> those wiring harnesses from Van's (I've heard that they are too much for what
> you get) or build my own wire by wire?
> Bob in Austin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan & Aylene Bahrns" <bahrns(at)effingham.net> |
Bob,
Attached is a jpeg of my cad drawing of what I am using to wire my RV7-A.
The wire numbers are mostly the same as van's wiring diagram numbers & I
also have most of the guage wire that is to be used on each wire & have also
labeled each wire under clear shrink tubing as to where it goes. Hope it is
of some assistance.
Stan
Bob,
One place to start is to obtain Van's documentation and wiring diagrams
before you decide to order the kit. If you know of anyone close to you,
maybe you
can look over their diagrams. The individual circuits are very simple, but
there a lot of little decisions to make. The wire sizes, etc., are called
out
in Van's plans.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, , ,
| Subject: | Pitot Tubing routing-continued |
1.27 SUBJ_HAS_UNIQ_ID Subject contains a unique ID
Fellow RV builders,
I am finishing my RV-7 wings and installing the standard pitot tube system. I
emailed the group and received some very good information. Most builders are
using nylon tubing and transitioning from the aluminum tube somewhere in the wing.
However if you follow Van's instructions and use the "center" hole in the
main ribs, the aluminum tubing will block access to the center fuel tank "Z"
bracket bolt, not a good thing. So it appears to me that if you are going to
run the tubing down the "center" hole, you better transition to nylon tubing
before it blocks the bolt. This means you really need to transition to nylon
tubing right behind the AN bulkhead fitting for the pitot tube.
Am I off base?
If I knew of this before I skinned (top skin) my wings, I might have drilled a
tube routing hole further aft in the main rib to accommodate the aluminum tubing.
Paul (RV-4/RV-7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pitot Tubing routing-continued |
I drilled new routing holes and ran aluminum all the way in to the wing root
where I installed an AN fitting. That way there is no splice transition
point in the line to cause future trouble, I could route it where it was out
of the way and I don't have to worry about it in the future. It's not
really any heavier and it's simple to do.
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Merems
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV7-List: Pitot Tubing routing-continued
Fellow RV builders,
I am finishing my RV-7 wings and installing the standard pitot tube system.
I emailed the group and received some very good information. Most builders
are using nylon tubing and transitioning from the aluminum tube somewhere in
the wing. However if you follow Van's instructions and use the "center"
hole in the main ribs, the aluminum tubing will block access to the center
fuel tank "Z" bracket bolt, not a good thing. So it appears to me that if
you are going to run the tubing down the "center" hole, you better
transition to nylon tubing before it blocks the bolt. This means you really
need to transition to nylon tubing right behind the AN bulkhead fitting for
the pitot tube.
Am I off base?
If I knew of this before I skinned (top skin) my wings, I might have drilled
a tube routing hole further aft in the main rib to accommodate the aluminum
tubing.
Paul (RV-4/RV-7A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Newcomer" <snewco(at)comcast.net> |
So far I have installed three sets in customers RVs and they have no
complaints. The light they project is better then the wing mounted from the
kit manufacturer. I am about to install the LED setup next and looking
forward to it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <richardglick(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
> Nelson,
>
> I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door today. I
> will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy in his
> other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to get it
> shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I am
> looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
>
> Richard Glick
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <nltiiii(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV7-List: lights
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
> > position/landing lights?
> >
> > Nelson Tower
> > RV7 wings
> > fuse on order
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> |
I think I may have run into a problem and need some advice, I have the wing
kit on order with the QB tanks (due in December), and in reading the
drawings and instruction this past couple of days I noticed a tank mod is
required for inverted flight that adds a flop tube in the standard vent line
area and moves the sender outboard one station. I am assuming the QB tanks
are in the standard configuration. Questions therefore are 1) can the tank
be modified for this mod after it is complete (i.e. can you get access and
keep inside clean) and 2) is this mod for sustained inverted flight and
regular rolls, loops etc are OK with the standard tanks.
Thanks for any input
Dave RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sjevans" <sjevans(at)cox.net> |
Steve,
Whose Landing lights are you referring to? I need to settle on a
landing / position light setup (without cutting into the wing leading
edge).
I'm interested in how the LED's perform.
Thanks for any info.
Sam
(7A builder)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Newcomer
Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
So far I have installed three sets in customers RVs and they have no
complaints. The light they project is better then the wing mounted from
the
kit manufacturer. I am about to install the LED setup next and looking
forward to it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <richardglick(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
> Nelson,
>
> I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door today.
I
> will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy in
his
> other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to get
it
> shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I am
> looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
>
> Richard Glick
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <nltiiii(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV7-List: lights
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
> > position/landing lights?
> >
> > Nelson Tower
> > RV7 wings
> > fuse on order
> >
> >
> >
>
>
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
I have been researching this for a while, the best bet is Bill
Vondane (might be misspelled) at www.creativeair.com, hands down because I
refuse to cut into the leading edge when it looks so good..
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: "sjevans" <sjevans(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: lights
>
> Steve,
> Whose Landing lights are you referring to? I need to settle on a
> landing / position light setup (without cutting into the wing leading
> edge).
> I'm interested in how the LED's perform.
> Thanks for any info.
> Sam
> (7A builder)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Newcomer
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
>
> So far I have installed three sets in customers RVs and they have no
> complaints. The light they project is better then the wing mounted from
> the
> kit manufacturer. I am about to install the LED setup next and looking
> forward to it.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick" <richardglick(at)charter.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
>
>>
>> Nelson,
>>
>> I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door today.
> I
>> will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy in
> his
>> other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to get
> it
>> shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I am
>> looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
>>
>> Richard Glick
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <nltiiii(at)bellsouth.net>
>> To:
>> Subject: RV7-List: lights
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
>> > position/landing lights?
>> >
>> > Nelson Tower
>> > RV7 wings
>> > fuse on order
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I believe the correct website is www.creativair.com.
The positives of Bill's halogen landing lights are that they are reasonably
bright and very light weight. They do draw a fair amount of amperage and
make a lot of heat, but what bright lights don't? I have installed a pair
of them....
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sportpilot
Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
I have been researching this for a while, the best bet is Bill
Vondane (might be misspelled) at www.creativeair.com, hands down because I
refuse to cut into the leading edge when it looks so good..
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: "sjevans" <sjevans(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: lights
>
> Steve,
> Whose Landing lights are you referring to? I need to settle on a
> landing / position light setup (without cutting into the wing leading
> edge).
> I'm interested in how the LED's perform.
> Thanks for any info.
> Sam
> (7A builder)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Newcomer
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
>
> So far I have installed three sets in customers RVs and they have no
> complaints. The light they project is better then the wing mounted from
> the
> kit manufacturer. I am about to install the LED setup next and looking
> forward to it.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick" <richardglick(at)charter.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
>
>>
>> Nelson,
>>
>> I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door today.
> I
>> will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy in
> his
>> other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to get
> it
>> shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I am
>> looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
>>
>> Richard Glick
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <nltiiii(at)bellsouth.net>
>> To:
>> Subject: RV7-List: lights
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
>> > position/landing lights?
>> >
>> > Nelson Tower
>> > RV7 wings
>> > fuse on order
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
I've been through this question myself
1. it can be done, but not easy - it looked to me to be a real bitch to do
2. it's mainly for sustained inverted flight and other negative G maneuvers;
positive G maneuvers don't need it
for details & pics from someone who did it, see here:
http://www.bobbrown.com/n112b_wings_9.html
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Figgins
rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: RV7 QB tanks
I think I may have run into a problem and need some advice, I have the wing
kit on order with the QB tanks (due in December), and in reading the
drawings and instruction this past couple of days I noticed a tank mod is
required for inverted flight that adds a flop tube in the standard vent line
area and moves the sender outboard one station. I am assuming the QB tanks
are in the standard configuration. Questions therefore are 1) can the tank
be modified for this mod after it is complete (i.e. can you get access and
keep inside clean) and 2) is this mod for sustained inverted flight and
regular rolls, loops etc are OK with the standard tanks.
Thanks for any input
Dave RV7A
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck aka Charlie Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
I can understand quickbuild folks being nervous about cutting a hole in the
leading edge of a completed wing. But if you are building your wing from
scratch, it costs only about 65 or 70 dollars for a new skin and ribs for
the leading edge should you screw it up. Don't ask me how I know this.
Don't archive.
Chuck Imken
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kathleen(at)rv7.us>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: lights
>
> I believe the correct website is www.creativair.com.
>
> The positives of Bill's halogen landing lights are that they are
reasonably
> bright and very light weight. They do draw a fair amount of amperage and
> make a lot of heat, but what bright lights don't? I have installed a pair
> of them....
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sportpilot
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
>
> I have been researching this for a while, the best bet is Bill
> Vondane (might be misspelled) at www.creativeair.com, hands down because I
> refuse to cut into the leading edge when it looks so good..
>
> Danny..
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "sjevans" <sjevans(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: lights
>
>
> >
> > Steve,
> > Whose Landing lights are you referring to? I need to settle on a
> > landing / position light setup (without cutting into the wing leading
> > edge).
> > I'm interested in how the LED's perform.
> > Thanks for any info.
> > Sam
> > (7A builder)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Newcomer
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
> >
> >
> > So far I have installed three sets in customers RVs and they have no
> > complaints. The light they project is better then the wing mounted from
> > the
> > kit manufacturer. I am about to install the LED setup next and looking
> > forward to it.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rick" <richardglick(at)charter.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Nelson,
> >>
> >> I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door today.
> > I
> >> will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy in
> > his
> >> other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to get
> > it
> >> shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I am
> >> looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
> >>
> >> Richard Glick
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: <nltiiii(at)bellsouth.net>
> >> To:
> >> Subject: RV7-List: lights
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
> >> > position/landing lights?
> >> >
> >> > Nelson Tower
> >> > RV7 wings
> >> > fuse on order
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ==
> > ==
> > ==
> > ==
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
HID's are brighter and generate little heat. They also produce a better
colour temperature light and draw less than an amp once ignited. They
generate less heat because they work like a flourescent tube in that xenon
gas is excited rather than heating up a filament.
Advantages in an aircraft are that you should never have to change a bulb,
lighter gauge wiring and no relays, and better visibilty. Downside is of
course cost, but to me the advantages are worth the extra cash.
Mark Taylor
http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/
>From: Kathleen(at)rv7.us
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV7-List: lights
>Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 20:44:04 -0800
>
>
>I believe the correct website is www.creativair.com.
>
>The positives of Bill's halogen landing lights are that they are reasonably
>bright and very light weight. They do draw a fair amount of amperage and
>make a lot of heat, but what bright lights don't? I have installed a pair
>of them....
>
> Kathleen Evans
>www.rv7.us
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sportpilot
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
>
> I have been researching this for a while, the best bet is Bill
>Vondane (might be misspelled) at www.creativeair.com, hands down because I
>refuse to cut into the leading edge when it looks so good..
>
>Danny..
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "sjevans" <sjevans(at)cox.net>
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV7-List: lights
>
>
> >
> > Steve,
> > Whose Landing lights are you referring to? I need to settle on a
> > landing / position light setup (without cutting into the wing leading
> > edge).
> > I'm interested in how the LED's perform.
> > Thanks for any info.
> > Sam
> > (7A builder)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Newcomer
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
> >
> >
> > So far I have installed three sets in customers RVs and they have no
> > complaints. The light they project is better then the wing mounted from
> > the
> > kit manufacturer. I am about to install the LED setup next and looking
> > forward to it.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rick" <richardglick(at)charter.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Nelson,
> >>
> >> I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door today.
> > I
> >> will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy in
> > his
> >> other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to get
> > it
> >> shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I am
> >> looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
> >>
> >> Richard Glick
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: <nltiiii(at)bellsouth.net>
> >> To:
> >> Subject: RV7-List: lights
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
> >> > position/landing lights?
> >> >
> >> > Nelson Tower
> >> > RV7 wings
> >> > fuse on order
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ==
> > ==
> > ==
> > ==
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
I think everyone is concerned about cutting any hole in a perfectly good
wing, quick build or slowwwww. For that reason, I recommend you do NOT as I
did it with Duckworks. If I were doing it again, I would install all my
lights in the wing tip and leave the perfectly good leading edge of my wing
in perfect condition. For a very good low cost example, you could look at
the pictures provided by Vince Fraizer. By the way, Vince's Rocket is now
flying.
((... scroll clear to the bottom and look at the wingtip lights section.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20Notes%20for%20the%20tail%20and%20wings.htm
you may need to paste the long link back
together in your browser. If that won't work click on the URL below and
then go to the Wings and Tail section.
Vince Frazier
812-985-7309 home
812-464-1839 work
Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
F-1H Rocket, N540VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html ))
Larry
> I can understand quickbuild folks being nervous about cutting a hole in
the
> leading edge of a completed wing. But if you are building your wing from
> scratch, it costs only about 65 or 70 dollars for a new skin and ribs for
> the leading edge should you screw it up. Don't ask me how I know this.
>
> > I believe the correct website is www.creativair.com.
> >
> > The positives of Bill's halogen landing lights are that they are
> reasonably
> > bright and very light weight. They do draw a fair amount of amperage
and
> > make a lot of heat, but what bright lights don't? I have installed a
pair
> > of them....
> >
> >
> > I have been researching this for a while, the best bet is Bill
> > Vondane (might be misspelled) at www.creativeair.com, hands down because
I
> > refuse to cut into the leading edge when it looks so good..
> >
> > > Whose Landing lights are you referring to? I need to settle on a
> > > landing / position light setup (without cutting into the wing leading
> > > edge).
> > > So far I have installed three sets in customers RVs and they have no
> > > complaints. The light they project is better then the wing mounted
from
> > > the
> > > kit manufacturer. I am about to install the LED setup next and looking
> > > forward to it.
> > >
> > >>
> > >> I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door today.
> > > I
> > >> will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy in
> > > his
> > >> other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to get
> > > it
> > >> shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I
am
> > >> looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
> > >>
> > >> > Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
> > >> > position/landing lights?
> > >> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck aka Charlie Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
Duckworks lights are great and were a breeze to install on my slow build.
I did not wait until the wings were finished to cut the holes. I did it as
soon as I had each leading edge skin riveted to the ribs--very easy to cut
and install at that point. Those can be focused easier and better than wing
tip lights and have no heat problems.
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: lights
>
> I think everyone is concerned about cutting any hole in a perfectly good
> wing, quick build or slowwwww. For that reason, I recommend you do NOT as
I
> did it with Duckworks. If I were doing it again, I would install all my
> lights in the wing tip and leave the perfectly good leading edge of my
wing
> in perfect condition. For a very good low cost example, you could look at
> the pictures provided by Vince Fraizer. By the way, Vince's Rocket is now
> flying.
>
> ((... scroll clear to the bottom and look at the wingtip lights section.
>
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Construction%20Notes%20for%20the%20tail%20and%20wings.htm
> you may need to paste the long link back
> together in your browser. If that won't work click on the URL below and
> then go to the Wings and Tail section.
>
> Vince Frazier
> 812-985-7309 home
> 812-464-1839 work
> Stinson 108, NC97535 flying
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF reserved
> http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html ))
>
> Larry
>
> > I can understand quickbuild folks being nervous about cutting a hole in
> the
> > leading edge of a completed wing. But if you are building your wing
from
> > scratch, it costs only about 65 or 70 dollars for a new skin and ribs
for
> > the leading edge should you screw it up. Don't ask me how I know this.
> >
> > > I believe the correct website is www.creativair.com.
> > >
> > > The positives of Bill's halogen landing lights are that they are
> > reasonably
> > > bright and very light weight. They do draw a fair amount of amperage
> and
> > > make a lot of heat, but what bright lights don't? I have installed a
> pair
> > > of them....
> > >
> > >
> > > I have been researching this for a while, the best bet is
Bill
> > > Vondane (might be misspelled) at www.creativeair.com, hands down
because
> I
> > > refuse to cut into the leading edge when it looks so good..
> > >
> > > > Whose Landing lights are you referring to? I need to settle on a
> > > > landing / position light setup (without cutting into the wing
leading
> > > > edge).
> > > > So far I have installed three sets in customers RVs and they have no
> > > > complaints. The light they project is better then the wing mounted
> from
> > > > the
> > > > kit manufacturer. I am about to install the LED setup next and
looking
> > > > forward to it.
> > > >
> > > >>
> > > >> I ordered the two kits and they are due to show up at my door
today.
> > > > I
> > > >> will let you know how look. The owner (Bill Vondane has been busy
in
> > > > his
> > > >> other profession (Like all of us) and it took a couple emails to
get
> > > > it
> > > >> shipped, but he seems like a very nice and accommodating person. I
> am
> > > >> looking forward to receiving and installing the kits.
> > > >>
> > > >> > Does anyone have any comments (pro or con) on the CreativAir
> > > >> > position/landing lights?
> > > >> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV7-No jig for the tail!!! |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Very good news from Van's. I asked them about the need for the extensive
jig that builders have been using for the tail kits.
Probably 15 hours saved right there!
--Original Message-----
From: Bruce Reynolds [mailto:brucer(at)vansaircraft.com]
Subject: Re: 71965..First question, RV 7
Frank,
You are the recipient of modern technology. The prepunched tail
kits need no jigs. Just follow the instructions in the manual.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer(at)vansaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck aka Charlie Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV7-No jig for the tail!!! |
Frank,........more very good news. You won't need jigs for the wings or
fuselage either even if you build the slow-build kits.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Subject: RV7-List: RE: RV7-No jig for the tail!!!
>
>
> Very good news from Van's. I asked them about the need for the extensive
> jig that builders have been using for the tail kits.
>
> Probably 15 hours saved right there!
>
>
> --Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Reynolds [mailto:brucer(at)vansaircraft.com]
> To: Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)
> Subject: Re: 71965..First question, RV 7
>
>
> Frank,
>
> You are the recipient of modern technology. The prepunched tail
> kits need no jigs. Just follow the instructions in the manual.
>
>
> Bruce Reynolds
> brucer(at)vansaircraft.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | RE: RV7-No jig for the tail!!! |
While a jig is not needed, it is highly recommended that the various
empennage structures (HS, VS, Rudder, Elevators) be secured in some type of
cradle(s) for some of the operations. I learned the hard way while drilling
a hole in the Horizontal Stabilizer assembly one night. The assembly
slipped and the resulting hole was oval instead of round. I promptly made
two cradles of particle board in TEE configuration with some pipe insulation
added for padding.
The cradles also help to save worktable space.
Just my opinion...
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) [mailto:frank.hinde(at)hp.com]
Subject: RV7-List: RE: RV7-No jig for the tail!!!
-->
Very good news from Van's. I asked them about the need for the extensive jig
that builders have been using for the tail kits.
Probably 15 hours saved right there!
--Original Message-----
From: Bruce Reynolds [mailto:brucer(at)vansaircraft.com]
Subject: Re: 71965..First question, RV 7
Frank,
You are the recipient of modern technology. The prepunched tail
kits need no jigs. Just follow the instructions in the manual.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer(at)vansaircraft.com
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank leading edge skin match |
Slow build RV7 wing.
Left wing aligned perfectly.
However, when I set the right fuel tank on the spar (using Dan C's
methodology for Z bracket drilling) after setting the leading edge, drilling
the W-408-1R Leading Edge rib and W-423 Joint plate, the tank skin lacks
about 1/32" meeting the top skin when I pull down as hard as I can (bottom
of tank skin already clecoed to spar and lines up fine with bottom of
leading edge skin).
Match is perfect when tank is set not quite on the joint plate (thus Z
brackets/baffle interface seems correct), but as soon as I set it on the
joint plate I get the little 1/32" "lifting" of the tank. I know the
Orndorf tapes show using straps to pull (force!) the tank into position for
drilling. (Didn't have to do this on left tank.) It just seems the tank will
always have to be "forced" into position for attachment.
I have removed the joint plate and alignment is perfect so the problem seems
to be the joint plate but I have studied it and cannot see what is holding
the tank skin up!
Am I obsessing? Should I just use straps to force it and go on? Or
persevere until I find the problem and get it to sit correctly in an
unforced state like the left one did?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings
N808AF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leading edge skin match |
Allan, this is not uncommon. The fix is in the nose of your tank ribs.
they need to be flatten, recessed further rounded or whatever needs to happen to
effectively shorten the overall length of each rib untill the tank skin fits
correctly or has zero gap.
There is no need for straps this will cure it. Good luck
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leading edge skin match |
Hi Allen,
Ran into a similar situation with a small gap at the LE of the tank. I also
used Dan's method. I ended up using a strap and then drilled the joint plate
holes to full size. Now, come final assembly, the dimpled holes _should_ help
pull the tank in and line it up nicely. Test fits have shown good fit,
however.
Another thing to consider: When you attach the tank baffle and tank brackets,
don't use too much proseal as that will cause the tank to move forward.
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
On Sun, 7 Nov 2004, Allen Fulmer wrote:
>
> Slow build RV7 wing.
>
> Left wing aligned perfectly.
>
> However, when I set the right fuel tank on the spar (using Dan C's
> methodology for Z bracket drilling) after setting the leading edge, drilling
> the W-408-1R Leading Edge rib and W-423 Joint plate, the tank skin lacks
> about 1/32" meeting the top skin when I pull down as hard as I can (bottom of
> tank skin already clecoed to spar and lines up fine with bottom of leading
> edge skin).
>
> Match is perfect when tank is set not quite on the joint plate (thus Z
> brackets/baffle interface seems correct), but as soon as I set it on the
> joint plate I get the little 1/32" "lifting" of the tank. I know the Orndorf
> tapes show using straps to pull (force!) the tank into position for drilling.
> (Didn't have to do this on left tank.) It just seems the tank will always
> have to be "forced" into position for attachment.
>
> I have removed the joint plate and alignment is perfect so the problem seems
> to be the joint plate but I have studied it and cannot see what is holding
> the tank skin up!
>
> Am I obsessing? Should I just use straps to force it and go on? Or
> persevere until I find the problem and get it to sit correctly in an unforced
> state like the left one did?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 Wings
> N808AF reserved
>
>
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another flying RV-7 with Dynon and Grand Rapids EFIS |
| From: | Keith T Uhls <keithuhls(at)juno.com> |
Jeff Bordelon took these pics and posted them to his web site. Here is
the link http://www.jeffsrv7a.com/KeithsRV7.htm
As you can see I have both the Grand Rapids and Dynon EFIS systems. I
really like both of them, they both have there place in the panel and
they keep getting better with each software update. If you have any
questions about either one let me know.
Keith Uhls
keithuhls(at)juno.com
RV-7 N7KU
now flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday (Tuesday),
I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
removing the access cover.
So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
access cover.
Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along the
seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized that
this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access cover
off again.
The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO way,
the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off in
the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
What say you?
Bob
St. Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robbie Attaway" <robbie(at)attawayair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak blues |
Hi Bob, I always pro-seal both sides of the cork and install it being
careful not to over tighten the screws. I have not had a leak (2 RVs of my
own and several other I have helped with) yet. Remember, it may take a
couple weeks for the pro-seal to cure depending on the ambient temp so don't
put pressure on it too soon.
Good Luck, Robbie www.attawayair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
>
> I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
> plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday
> (Tuesday),
> I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
> pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
> actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
> problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
> the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
> removing the access cover.
>
> So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
> prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
> scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
> access cover.
>
> Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along
> the
> seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
>
> Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized
> that
> this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
> to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
> thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
>
> Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
> possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
> use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
> leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access
> cover
> off again.
>
> The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
> gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
> gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
> trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO
> way,
> the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
> seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off
> in
> the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
>
> What say you?
>
> Bob
> St. Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robbie Attaway" <robbie(at)attawayair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak blues |
Bob, This is a web site that has info on pro-seal.
http://corporate.ppg.com/ppg/aerospace/default.htm
Robbie www.attawayair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
>
> I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
> plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday
> (Tuesday),
> I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
> pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
> actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
> problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
> the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
> removing the access cover.
>
> So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
> prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
> scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
> access cover.
>
> Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along
> the
> seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
>
> Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized
> that
> this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
> to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
> thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
>
> Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
> possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
> use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
> leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access
> cover
> off again.
>
> The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
> gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
> gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
> trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO
> way,
> the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
> seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off
> in
> the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
>
> What say you?
>
> Bob
> St. Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak blues |
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday (Tuesday),
>I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
>pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
>actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
>problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
>the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
>removing the access cover.
>
>So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
>prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
>scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
>access cover.
>
>Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along the
>seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
>
>Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized that
>this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
>to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
>thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
>
>Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
>possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
>use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
>leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access cover
>off again.
>
>The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
>gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
>gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
>trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO way,
>the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
>seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off in
>the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
>
>What say you?
>
>Bob
>St. Paul
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV -7 with GRT EFIS and Dynon |
| From: | Keith T Uhls <keithuhls(at)juno.com> |
Q:IIncidentallywhat do you use to drive the VOR and glideslope?
A: I purchased my GRT EFIS before they where selling them off the shelf.
So some things were not available at that time. For me I wanted to be
able to fly GPS approaches and in order to do that I had to have an OBS.
So I purchased the one from Garmin. I do not know if the one on the
EFIS would be legal and did not want to go through that battle in case I
lost. I do not have the interface yet but it is wired so I can drive the
OBS with the EFIS.
Q: Where did you get the switches for your panel?
A: A good question... I had a couple of guys here in Lockhart get their
switches from Gulf Coast Avionics. They paid $40 plus $10 for engraving.
I have 13 of these suckers.....and that is a lot of money. I looked for
Honeywell AML switches from Allied electronics and Newarkinone. I
purchased them from Newarkinone because they were the cheapest. However
I found out that they were low amperage (3amps). There are higher
amperages available from GCA (10 amps) At least that is what I was told
when I called them. One of my switches went bad and that made me
research the amperage. I ended up purchasing a few from them for my high
amperage items. Landing lights, strobes etc. We are putting them in
this week and I will let you know how that goes.
I had mine engraved by a guy in Las Vegas, Andy's Engraving and he
charged me $7.00 each. He did them in a matter of days and I was really
happy with them.
Q:I am not trying to nitpick anything but when flying the American
Flag on the tail of an aircraft the stars are into the wind.
A: Thanks for letting me know, especially before I got paint on it. I
will change it.
Jeff Bordelon took these pics and posted them to his web site. Here is
the link http://www.jeffsrv7a.com/KeithsRV7.htm
As you can see I have both the Grand Rapids and Dynon EFIS systems. I
really like both of them, they both have there place in the panel and
they keep getting better with each software update. If you have any
questions about either one let me know.
Keith Uhls
keithuhls(at)juno.com
RV-7 N7KU
now flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis(at)defence.gov.au> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
Bob,
Just to add to the squillion tank gasket sealing options. If you do want to
add sealer to the cork gasket but dont like fighting with cured proseal,
look for Loctite No3, its billed as an aviation gasket sealant that does not
set. It looks and smells like a variation of proseal that sets but stays
tacky like fresh chewing gum.
As a minimum it will be good to seal the threads of the screws on the tank
access hatch, I will be able to undo the screws with out destroying the
heads in the proces.
Keep bubbling along, David Francis, Canberra, Australia, waiting for the
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Younie [mailto:rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net]
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
Bob,
I pro sealed everything that did not move and some things that did.....did
not use cork gaskets but did use #8 Allen head screws in lieu of Phillips
head screws-easier to tighten or remove. ......so far, no leaks. A friend
just replaced a Phillips head screw with an Allen head screw because of a
leak in his RV just over a year old (he did not Proseal the cork gaskets
when tanks were built).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Francis, David CMDR
Subject: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Bob,
Just to add to the squillion tank gasket sealing options. If you do want to
add sealer to the cork gasket but dont like fighting with cured proseal,
look for Loctite No3, its billed as an aviation gasket sealant that does not
set. It looks and smells like a variation of proseal that sets but stays
tacky like fresh chewing gum.
As a minimum it will be good to seal the threads of the screws on the tank
access hatch, I will be able to undo the screws with out destroying the
heads in the proces.
Keep bubbling along, David Francis, Canberra, Australia, waiting for the
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Younie [mailto:rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net]
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak blues |
>> I think I want to use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF
I didn't stop the
leak, I really don't want to repeat the process of getting that access cover
off again. <<
Vans put a warning and advice out in this or last year's RVator on this
topic. They suggest now that the plates should not utilize the cork seals
because they will eventually leak. It might take years but their experience
shows they do deteriorate and leak with time. They now recommend to proseal
them. I removed my perfectly good cork seals that had been pressure tested
( I waited a full 6 months before testing them however) and redid them using
only proseal. I figure it is a lot less work now than later after they are
mounted on the fuselage. Check with Vans on this first to make sure they
have not changed their mind on this again. If you find what I am saying is
not currently true, post your results for all to see.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
>
> I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
> plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday
(Tuesday),
> I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
> pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
> actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
> problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
> the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
> removing the access cover.
>
> So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
> prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
> scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
> access cover.
>
> Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along
the
> seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
>
> Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized
that
> this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days old,
> to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
> thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
>
> Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
> possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
> use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
> leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access
cover
> off again.
>
> The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
> gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
> gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm just
> trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO
way,
> the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it also
> seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off
in
> the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
>
> What say you?
>
> Bob
> St. Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV -7 with GRT EFIS and Dynon |
I have been looking for nice rocker switches also..............here is what i
am going with on our 7A. Haven't found much selection.
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/Categories.aspx?Category=38940ec0-b260-4e9f-a23c
-b80ff8e89c67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron(at)aerojet.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
Maybe a little off subject, but "amen" to the Allen head screws. Especially
as your aircraft ages, the Phillips get to be a real pain, used to struggle
with them all the time on my 40-year old Cessna. I'm using Torx fasteners
on my RV wherever possible, #8 stainless are avialable from
http://www.microfasteners.com/. Either Allen or Torx are a big improvement
because you don't have to apply "down" force to keep the driver engaged with
the fastener head.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Imken
Subject: RE: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Bob,
I pro sealed everything that did not move and some things that did.....did
not use cork gaskets but did use #8 Allen head screws in lieu of Phillips
head screws-easier to tighten or remove. ......so far, no leaks. A friend
just replaced a Phillips head screw with an Allen head screw because of a
leak in his RV just over a year old (he did not Proseal the cork gaskets
when tanks were built).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Francis, David CMDR
Subject: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Bob,
Just to add to the squillion tank gasket sealing options. If you do want to
add sealer to the cork gasket but dont like fighting with cured proseal,
look for Loctite No3, its billed as an aviation gasket sealant that does not
set. It looks and smells like a variation of proseal that sets but stays
tacky like fresh chewing gum.
As a minimum it will be good to seal the threads of the screws on the tank
access hatch, I will be able to undo the screws with out destroying the
heads in the proces.
Keep bubbling along, David Francis, Canberra, Australia, waiting for the
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Younie [mailto:rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net]
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
Someone said the difference between the stainless Torx version of a #8 and
the AN version is the shoulder on the AN whereas the threads go right up to
the head on the stainless Torx. I have both and can see this. Does anyone
know which one is actually stronger as one is stainless and the other AN
spec'd steel? Or does it not really matter in the case of fuel tank and
access plate attachment?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herron, Al
Subject: RE: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Maybe a little off subject, but "amen" to the Allen head screws. Especially
as your aircraft ages, the Phillips get to be a real pain, used to struggle
with them all the time on my 40-year old Cessna. I'm using Torx fasteners
on my RV wherever possible, #8 stainless are avialable from
http://www.microfasteners.com/. Either Allen or Torx are a big improvement
because you don't have to apply "down" force to keep the driver engaged with
the fastener head.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Imken
Subject: RE: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Bob,
I pro sealed everything that did not move and some things that did.....did
not use cork gaskets but did use #8 Allen head screws in lieu of Phillips
head screws-easier to tighten or remove. ......so far, no leaks. A friend
just replaced a Phillips head screw with an Allen head screw because of a
leak in his RV just over a year old (he did not Proseal the cork gaskets
when tanks were built).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Francis, David CMDR
Subject: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Bob,
Just to add to the squillion tank gasket sealing options. If you do want to
add sealer to the cork gasket but dont like fighting with cured proseal,
look for Loctite No3, its billed as an aviation gasket sealant that does not
set. It looks and smells like a variation of proseal that sets but stays
tacky like fresh chewing gum.
As a minimum it will be good to seal the threads of the screws on the tank
access hatch, I will be able to undo the screws with out destroying the
heads in the proces.
Keep bubbling along, David Francis, Canberra, Australia, waiting for the
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Younie [mailto:rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net]
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron(at)aerojet.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
I've been told never use stainless in a structural application where the
strength of the fastener has been calculated to take a load. But for most
access panels, trim, etc., they should be fine, and those are the items you
take apart the most. Definitely check with Van's if you are in doubt about
whether the fastener is in a critical load path.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Allen Fulmer
Subject: RE: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Someone said the difference between the stainless Torx version of a #8 and
the AN version is the shoulder on the AN whereas the threads go right up to
the head on the stainless Torx. I have both and can see this. Does anyone
know which one is actually stronger as one is stainless and the other AN
spec'd steel? Or does it not really matter in the case of fuel tank and
access plate attachment?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herron, Al
Subject: RE: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Maybe a little off subject, but "amen" to the Allen head screws. Especially
as your aircraft ages, the Phillips get to be a real pain, used to struggle
with them all the time on my 40-year old Cessna. I'm using Torx fasteners
on my RV wherever possible, #8 stainless are avialable from
http://www.microfasteners.com/. Either Allen or Torx are a big improvement
because you don't have to apply "down" force to keep the driver engaged with
the fastener head.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Imken
Subject: RE: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Bob,
I pro sealed everything that did not move and some things that did.....did
not use cork gaskets but did use #8 Allen head screws in lieu of Phillips
head screws-easier to tighten or remove. ......so far, no leaks. A friend
just replaced a Phillips head screw with an Allen head screw because of a
leak in his RV just over a year old (he did not Proseal the cork gaskets
when tanks were built).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Francis, David CMDR
Subject: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Bob,
Just to add to the squillion tank gasket sealing options. If you do want to
add sealer to the cork gasket but dont like fighting with cured proseal,
look for Loctite No3, its billed as an aviation gasket sealant that does not
set. It looks and smells like a variation of proseal that sets but stays
tacky like fresh chewing gum.
As a minimum it will be good to seal the threads of the screws on the tank
access hatch, I will be able to undo the screws with out destroying the
heads in the proces.
Keep bubbling along, David Francis, Canberra, Australia, waiting for the
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Younie [mailto:rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net]
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
Don't proseal the cork. You will never get it off. I have built 3 RV's
now and they don't leak just using the cork.
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
>plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | B Tomm <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak blues |
For those that have opened the sealed coveres, can you offer any tips that
made the removal job easier? I've heard that heating the proseal with a
heat gun softens it a bit making it easier to remove. What have others
found?
Bevan
RV7A with corked and prosealed covers
-----Original Message-----
From: LarryRobertHelming [SMTP:lhelming(at)sigecom.net]
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
>> I think I want to use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF
I didn't stop the
leak, I really don't want to repeat the process of getting that access
cover
off again. <<
Vans put a warning and advice out in this or last year's RVator on this
topic. They suggest now that the plates should not utilize the cork seals
because they will eventually leak. It might take years but their
experience
shows they do deteriorate and leak with time. They now recommend to
proseal
them. I removed my perfectly good cork seals that had been pressure tested
( I waited a full 6 months before testing them however) and redid them
using
only proseal. I figure it is a lot less work now than later after they are
mounted on the fuselage. Check with Vans on this first to make sure they
have not changed their mind on this again. If you find what I am saying is
not currently true, post your results for all to see.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Fuel tank leak blues
>
> I finished up the right (and final) tank Sunday by prosealing the access
> plate and fuel tank sender directly onto the rib. Then yesterday
(Tuesday),
> I built up enough nerve to test it out. Before I even got the manometer
> pumped to 2.6 psi, I could feel the breeze. Adding the soapy bubbles, I
> actually got the leak to blow a bubble about as big as a football. No
> problem finding the leak; it was along the bottom baffle-to-skin seam in
> the most inboard bay. Well, at least it was an area I could get to by
> removing the access cover.
>
> So I did. Man, proseal can really set up in two days. It was a rough trip
> prying that sucker off. But eventually I did and it took two hours of
> scraping and wiping with MEK to remove all the ProSeal from the rib and
> access cover.
>
> Then I filled a syringe with sealant and layed a huge glob inside along
the
> seam and just ont he other side of the rib.
>
> Now, here's the deal. As I was taking off the access cover, I realized
that
> this would really be a risky job if the sealant were more than 3 days
old,
> to the point where it seemed perfectly possible to damage the rib. I
> thought, 'man, I'm not prosealing this directly onto the rib again.
>
> Now I know there's a zillion messages in the archive about other
> possibilities and I've reviewed half-a-zillion of them. I think I want to
> use the cork gasket when I put this back on because IF I didn't stop the
> leak, I really don't want to repeat theprocess of getting that access
cover
> off again.
>
> The question is on technique. Should I pro-seal both sides of the cork
> gasket and then put the access cover back on? Should I just Proseal the
> gasket to the rib? Should I just ProSeal the gasket to the cover? I'm
just
> trying to figure out the best way to seal this thing (there was NOOOOO
way,
> the cover was going to leak the way I had prosealed it before; but it
also
> seemed like there was no way that access cover was ever going to come off
in
> the future, which kinda takes away the point of having an access cover.
>
> What say you?
>
> Bob
> St. Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | CH Products Control Stick Switches Electrical Specifications |
There has been discussions about the CH Products control sticks (http://www.chproducts.com/retail/aircraft.html) on the newsgroups lately. I have two of them, but there was a question about what the switch ratings were. I contacted Kevin Williamson of CH
Products and he was kind enough to supply me with a set of sample switches (from
Omron) and the part numbers thereof.
I downloaded the complete data sheet from the web, reviewed the specifications
and then called the Omron factory representative. There are a few minor errors
in the datasheet available on the web, so the rep emailed me the revised (corrected)
sheets. I
also discussed with him the specifications listed and got clarification, although
it turned out that when I received the revised data sheets, the specification
is very clear now.
The bottom line is that the electrical rating for all three different switches
is: 1-50mA, at 5-24V.
The explanation for the ratings is:
1. The lower values (1 mA at 5V) are to make sure that the switch sees enough energy
when switching to keep the contacts clean. Any lower values would not guarantee
that the contacts will always make proper contact over the life of the
switch. If for
some reason the load being switched is too low, a resistor could be added in parallel
with the load to increase the current to at least 1 mA.
2. The higher values (50 mA at 24V) are the maximum values that should be switched
that will not damage the switch. Switching any higher loads will risk damaging
the contacts - either welding them shut or warping them or causing excessive
arc damage - and
will certainly shorten the life of the switch.
3. These ratings are for a resistive load, so if they are to be used with a relay
or motor the contacts MUST be protected with a diode or other type of snubber
network!
Of course, the manufacturer always has a margin in the design so if one chooses
to switch 55mA at 14V (for instance), the switch will probably still have a reasonable
life. However, pushing them to 100 mA or more will definitely shorten
the life and may
result in a catastrophic failure at some point.
These switches are rated for a lot of actuations so their use in an airplane should
be no problem. The hat switches are rated for 300,000 operations (minimum),
the switches on the top face of the stick are rated for 100,000 operations
(minimum) and the
trigger (typically used for push-to-talk) is rated for 1,000,000 operations (minimum).
To put these numbers in perspective, let's assume you make one flight every day
for ten years. For each flight you could use the hat switch to trim the airplane
82 times in each direction, you could actuate the flaps (assuming that is
what you use the two
gray switches on the top of the stick for) 27 times each up and down and you could
push-to-talk 274 times.
I am satisfied that the switches used are as robust as you will find and the ratings
are adequate for the task. Just don't go overboard on what you connect
direct to the switches and your CH Products control stick will have a long and
happy life!
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Orndorff videos index |
Hi All,
Has anyone indexed the Orndoff videos. Specifically the finish kit set?
John McDonnell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Orndorff videos index |
Yeah - I have it - number refers to the minute that it starts on
TAPE 1
0 = tipup
0:15 = slider
1:13 = engine mount
1:19 = nose gear mount
1:24 = wheels & tires
1:31 = main gear
1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
TAPE 2
0 = finish slider fiberglass
0:17 = brakes
0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
0:28 = mount H-stab
0:35 = V-stab
0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
0:43 = mount engine
1:00 = spinner & prop
1:16 = top cowl
1:29 = bottom cowl
1:40 = air scoop
1:46 = air box
TAPE 3
0 = finish air box
0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
0:10 = lower cowl hinges
0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
0:18 = nose wheel fairing
0:24 = nose gear fairing
0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
HTH,
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.com
Subject: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Hi All,
Has anyone indexed the Orndoff videos. Specifically the finish kit set?
John McDonnell
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Orndorff videos index |
Whoops - Ieft out part of TAPE 3. Here's the full list:
TAPE 1
0 = tipup
0:15 = slider
1:13 = engine mount
1:19 = nose gear mount
1:24 = wheels & tires
1:31 = main gear
1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
TAPE 2
0 = finish slider fiberglass
0:17 = brakes
0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
0:28 = mount H-stab
0:35 = V-stab
0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
0:43 = mount engine
1:00 = spinner & prop
1:16 = top cowl
1:29 = bottom cowl
1:40 = air scoop
1:46 = air box
TAPE 3
0 = finish air box
0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
0:10 = lower cowl hinges
0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
0:18 = nose wheel fairing
0:24 = nose gear fairing
0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
0:42 = fiberglass bottom cowl/air scoop
0:47 = main wheel pants
0:56 = main gear ALUMINUM fairings
1:06 = spinner
1:13 = tail fairing
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic(at)starband.net]
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Yeah - I have it - number refers to the minute that it starts on
TAPE 1
0 = tipup
0:15 = slider
1:13 = engine mount
1:19 = nose gear mount
1:24 = wheels & tires
1:31 = main gear
1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
TAPE 2
0 = finish slider fiberglass
0:17 = brakes
0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
0:28 = mount H-stab
0:35 = V-stab
0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
0:43 = mount engine
1:00 = spinner & prop
1:16 = top cowl
1:29 = bottom cowl
1:40 = air scoop
1:46 = air box
TAPE 3
0 = finish air box
0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
0:10 = lower cowl hinges
0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
0:18 = nose wheel fairing
0:24 = nose gear fairing
0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
HTH,
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.com
Subject: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Hi All,
Has anyone indexed the Orndoff videos. Specifically the finish kit set?
John McDonnell
---
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Orndorff videos index |
And while we're at it, here's the list for the "Aircraft Systems" tapes:
TAPE 1
0 = intro
0:5 = engine acc, cowl baffles
0:27 = instrument panel, throttle/prop cables
0:35 = fuel pump & fuel plumbing
0:38-0:43 = making hoses
0:48 = oil system
0:54 = hot air
1:02 = brake lines
1:06 = instrument panel
1:22 = soundproofing
1:26 = antennas
1:36 = wiring
TAPE 2
0 = wiring
0:18 = cabin air & heat
0:21 = more wiring
0:23 = pre-oiling
0:26 = flight instruments
0:31 = showing us his house
0:35 = starting engine
0:37 = painting
0:44 = pre-flight prep & first flight
0:52 = trim & correcting heavy wing
I have the Quick Build tapes, too, but they are so out of date George oughta
be ashamed of himself for continuing to sell them.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic(at)starband.net]
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Whoops - Ieft out part of TAPE 3. Here's the full list:
TAPE 1
0 = tipup
0:15 = slider
1:13 = engine mount
1:19 = nose gear mount
1:24 = wheels & tires
1:31 = main gear
1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
TAPE 2
0 = finish slider fiberglass
0:17 = brakes
0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
0:28 = mount H-stab
0:35 = V-stab
0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
0:43 = mount engine
1:00 = spinner & prop
1:16 = top cowl
1:29 = bottom cowl
1:40 = air scoop
1:46 = air box
TAPE 3
0 = finish air box
0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
0:10 = lower cowl hinges
0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
0:18 = nose wheel fairing
0:24 = nose gear fairing
0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
0:42 = fiberglass bottom cowl/air scoop
0:47 = main wheel pants
0:56 = main gear ALUMINUM fairings
1:06 = spinner
1:13 = tail fairing
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic(at)starband.net]
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Yeah - I have it - number refers to the minute that it starts on
TAPE 1
0 = tipup
0:15 = slider
1:13 = engine mount
1:19 = nose gear mount
1:24 = wheels & tires
1:31 = main gear
1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
TAPE 2
0 = finish slider fiberglass
0:17 = brakes
0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
0:28 = mount H-stab
0:35 = V-stab
0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
0:43 = mount engine
1:00 = spinner & prop
1:16 = top cowl
1:29 = bottom cowl
1:40 = air scoop
1:46 = air box
TAPE 3
0 = finish air box
0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
0:10 = lower cowl hinges
0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
0:18 = nose wheel fairing
0:24 = nose gear fairing
0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
HTH,
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.com
Subject: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Hi All,
Has anyone indexed the Orndoff videos. Specifically the finish kit set?
John McDonnell
---
---
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Orndorff videos index |
God Bless you Brian
John McDonnell (dreading the canopy)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Orndorff videos index |
God Double Bless Brian
John
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Franz Fux" <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com> |
| Subject: | Orndorff videos index |
Hi ,
would anybody have a set for sale, contact me directly.
Franz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Whoops - Ieft out part of TAPE 3. Here's the full list:
TAPE 1
0 = tipup
0:15 = slider
1:13 = engine mount
1:19 = nose gear mount
1:24 = wheels & tires
1:31 = main gear
1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
TAPE 2
0 = finish slider fiberglass
0:17 = brakes
0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
0:28 = mount H-stab
0:35 = V-stab
0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
0:43 = mount engine
1:00 = spinner & prop
1:16 = top cowl
1:29 = bottom cowl
1:40 = air scoop
1:46 = air box
TAPE 3
0 = finish air box
0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
0:10 = lower cowl hinges
0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
0:18 = nose wheel fairing
0:24 = nose gear fairing
0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
0:42 = fiberglass bottom cowl/air scoop
0:47 = main wheel pants
0:56 = main gear ALUMINUM fairings
1:06 = spinner
1:13 = tail fairing
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic(at)starband.net]
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Yeah - I have it - number refers to the minute that it starts on
TAPE 1
0 = tipup
0:15 = slider
1:13 = engine mount
1:19 = nose gear mount
1:24 = wheels & tires
1:31 = main gear
1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
TAPE 2
0 = finish slider fiberglass
0:17 = brakes
0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
0:28 = mount H-stab
0:35 = V-stab
0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
0:43 = mount engine
1:00 = spinner & prop
1:16 = top cowl
1:29 = bottom cowl
1:40 = air scoop
1:46 = air box
TAPE 3
0 = finish air box
0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
0:10 = lower cowl hinges
0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
0:18 = nose wheel fairing
0:24 = nose gear fairing
0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
HTH,
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.com
Subject: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
Hi All,
Has anyone indexed the Orndoff videos. Specifically the finish kit set?
John McDonnell
---
---
---
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Orndorff videos index |
Hey John, I am finishing up the canopy fit now. It really isn't that bad;
see details on my site, Dan Checkoway's, and Walter Tondu's. See my site
for links. The BIG CUT, which I think everyone dreads, was rather
anti-climatic. The frame takes a bunch of tinkering. At first it doesn't
fit, then as you tweak here & there, it comes into place.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.com
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
God Bless you Brian
John McDonnell (dreading the canopy)
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Bell <wmlbell(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Orndorff videos index |
Where can I get a set? I should be getting the wings and fuselage next
month and the tapes would help.
On Nov 12, 2004, at 3:04 PM, Franz Fux wrote:
>
>
> Hi ,
> would anybody have a set for sale, contact me directly.
> Franz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
>
>
>
>
> Whoops - Ieft out part of TAPE 3. Here's the full list:
>
> TAPE 1
> 0 = tipup
> 0:15 = slider
> 1:13 = engine mount
> 1:19 = nose gear mount
> 1:24 = wheels & tires
> 1:31 = main gear
> 1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
>
> TAPE 2
> 0 = finish slider fiberglass
> 0:17 = brakes
> 0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
> 0:28 = mount H-stab
> 0:35 = V-stab
> 0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
> 0:43 = mount engine
> 1:00 = spinner & prop
> 1:16 = top cowl
> 1:29 = bottom cowl
> 1:40 = air scoop
> 1:46 = air box
>
> TAPE 3
> 0 = finish air box
> 0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
> 0:10 = lower cowl hinges
> 0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
> 0:18 = nose wheel fairing
> 0:24 = nose gear fairing
> 0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
> 0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
> 0:42 = fiberglass bottom cowl/air scoop
> 0:47 = main wheel pants
> 0:56 = main gear ALUMINUM fairings
> 1:06 = spinner
> 1:13 = tail fairing
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic(at)starband.net]
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
>
> Yeah - I have it - number refers to the minute that it starts on
>
> TAPE 1
> 0 = tipup
> 0:15 = slider
> 1:13 = engine mount
> 1:19 = nose gear mount
> 1:24 = wheels & tires
> 1:31 = main gear
> 1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
>
> TAPE 2
> 0 = finish slider fiberglass
> 0:17 = brakes
> 0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
> 0:28 = mount H-stab
> 0:35 = V-stab
> 0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
> 0:43 = mount engine
> 1:00 = spinner & prop
> 1:16 = top cowl
> 1:29 = bottom cowl
> 1:40 = air scoop
> 1:46 = air box
>
>
> TAPE 3
> 0 = finish air box
> 0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
> 0:10 = lower cowl hinges
> 0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
> 0:18 = nose wheel fairing
> 0:24 = nose gear fairing
> 0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
> 0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
>
> HTH,
> brian
> http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.com
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Has anyone indexed the Orndoff videos. Specifically the finish kit
> set?
>
> John McDonnell
>
>
> ---
>
> ---
>
> ---
>
>
> ---
>
> ---
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Keith T Uhls ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Keith T Uhls
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV9-List
Subject: RV-7 with GRT EFIS and Dynon
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/keithuhls@juno.com.11.14.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Proseal quantity? |
Gents,
I am planning on using cartridges of Proseal to finish off my RV-7 tanks. I am
purchasing my sealant from Aircraft Spruce. Does anyone know how many cartridges
it will take to complete both tanks? What cartridge sizes ?
Thanks,
Paul
_-=====================================================================
_-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
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_-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Orndorff videos index |
william,
Try the Orndorff web site,
www.fly-gbi.com/main.htm
Mike Ice
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Bell" <wmlbell(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
>
> Where can I get a set? I should be getting the wings and fuselage next
> month and the tapes would help.
> On Nov 12, 2004, at 3:04 PM, Franz Fux wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi ,
> > would anybody have a set for sale, contact me directly.
> > Franz
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Whoops - Ieft out part of TAPE 3. Here's the full list:
> >
> > TAPE 1
> > 0 = tipup
> > 0:15 = slider
> > 1:13 = engine mount
> > 1:19 = nose gear mount
> > 1:24 = wheels & tires
> > 1:31 = main gear
> > 1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
> >
> > TAPE 2
> > 0 = finish slider fiberglass
> > 0:17 = brakes
> > 0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
> > 0:28 = mount H-stab
> > 0:35 = V-stab
> > 0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
> > 0:43 = mount engine
> > 1:00 = spinner & prop
> > 1:16 = top cowl
> > 1:29 = bottom cowl
> > 1:40 = air scoop
> > 1:46 = air box
> >
> > TAPE 3
> > 0 = finish air box
> > 0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
> > 0:10 = lower cowl hinges
> > 0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
> > 0:18 = nose wheel fairing
> > 0:24 = nose gear fairing
> > 0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
> > 0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
> > 0:42 = fiberglass bottom cowl/air scoop
> > 0:47 = main wheel pants
> > 0:56 = main gear ALUMINUM fairings
> > 1:06 = spinner
> > 1:13 = tail fairing
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic(at)starband.net]
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
> >
> > Yeah - I have it - number refers to the minute that it starts on
> >
> > TAPE 1
> > 0 = tipup
> > 0:15 = slider
> > 1:13 = engine mount
> > 1:19 = nose gear mount
> > 1:24 = wheels & tires
> > 1:31 = main gear
> > 1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
> >
> > TAPE 2
> > 0 = finish slider fiberglass
> > 0:17 = brakes
> > 0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
> > 0:28 = mount H-stab
> > 0:35 = V-stab
> > 0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
> > 0:43 = mount engine
> > 1:00 = spinner & prop
> > 1:16 = top cowl
> > 1:29 = bottom cowl
> > 1:40 = air scoop
> > 1:46 = air box
> >
> >
> > TAPE 3
> > 0 = finish air box
> > 0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
> > 0:10 = lower cowl hinges
> > 0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
> > 0:18 = nose wheel fairing
> > 0:24 = nose gear fairing
> > 0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
> > 0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
> >
> > HTH,
> > brian
> > http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)AOL.com
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
> >
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Has anyone indexed the Orndoff videos. Specifically the finish kit
> > set?
> >
> > John McDonnell
> >
> >
> > ---
> >
> > ---
> >
> > ---
> >
> >
> > ---
> >
> > ---
> >
> >
> > _-=====================================================================
> > _-> _-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
> > _-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> > _-> _-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
> > _-= Contribution link below to find out more about this
> > _-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
> > _-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com!
> > _-> _-= List Contribution Web Site
> > _-> _-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> > _-> _-= Thank you for your generous support!
> > _-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> > _->
_-=====================================================================
> > _-= - The RV7-List Email Forum -
> > _-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions
> > _-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other
> > _-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> > _-=====================================================================
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> >
> >
>
>
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> _-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com!
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_-= Contribution link below to find out more about this
_-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
_-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com!
_-_-= List Contribution Web Site
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_-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Newcomer" <snewco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal quantity? |
I used 12 cartridges For two tanks. Be sure to use the cartridge gun it
saves time and sealent.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV7-List: Proseal quantity?
>
> Gents,
>
> I am planning on using cartridges of Proseal to finish off my RV-7 tanks.
I am purchasing my sealant from Aircraft Spruce. Does anyone know how many
cartridges it will take to complete both tanks? What cartridge sizes ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Bell <wmlbell(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Orndorff videos index |
Thanks much.
On Nov 15, 2004, at 9:30 AM, Michael T. Ice wrote:
>
> william,
>
> Try the Orndorff web site,
>
> www.fly-gbi.com/main.htm
>
>
> Mike Ice
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Bell" <wmlbell(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
>
>
>>
>> Where can I get a set? I should be getting the wings and fuselage
>> next
>> month and the tapes would help.
>> On Nov 12, 2004, at 3:04 PM, Franz Fux wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi ,
>>> would anybody have a set for sale, contact me directly.
>>> Franz
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian
>>> Meyette
>>> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Whoops - Ieft out part of TAPE 3. Here's the full list:
>>>
>>> TAPE 1
>>> 0 = tipup
>>> 0:15 = slider
>>> 1:13 = engine mount
>>> 1:19 = nose gear mount
>>> 1:24 = wheels & tires
>>> 1:31 = main gear
>>> 1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
>>>
>>> TAPE 2
>>> 0 = finish slider fiberglass
>>> 0:17 = brakes
>>> 0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
>>> 0:28 = mount H-stab
>>> 0:35 = V-stab
>>> 0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
>>> 0:43 = mount engine
>>> 1:00 = spinner & prop
>>> 1:16 = top cowl
>>> 1:29 = bottom cowl
>>> 1:40 = air scoop
>>> 1:46 = air box
>>>
>>> TAPE 3
>>> 0 = finish air box
>>> 0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
>>> 0:10 = lower cowl hinges
>>> 0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
>>> 0:18 = nose wheel fairing
>>> 0:24 = nose gear fairing
>>> 0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
>>> 0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
>>> 0:42 = fiberglass bottom cowl/air scoop
>>> 0:47 = main wheel pants
>>> 0:56 = main gear ALUMINUM fairings
>>> 1:06 = spinner
>>> 1:13 = tail fairing
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic(at)starband.net]
>>> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
>>>
>>> Yeah - I have it - number refers to the minute that it starts on
>>>
>>> TAPE 1
>>> 0 = tipup
>>> 0:15 = slider
>>> 1:13 = engine mount
>>> 1:19 = nose gear mount
>>> 1:24 = wheels & tires
>>> 1:31 = main gear
>>> 1:40 = slider canopy, front fiberglass trim
>>>
>>> TAPE 2
>>> 0 = finish slider fiberglass
>>> 0:17 = brakes
>>> 0:27 = back to slider windshield fiberglass
>>> 0:28 = mount H-stab
>>> 0:35 = V-stab
>>> 0:42 = stabilizer tips fiberglass
>>> 0:43 = mount engine
>>> 1:00 = spinner & prop
>>> 1:16 = top cowl
>>> 1:29 = bottom cowl
>>> 1:40 = air scoop
>>> 1:46 = air box
>>>
>>>
>>> TAPE 3
>>> 0 = finish air box
>>> 0:4 = fiberglass scoop to cowl
>>> 0:10 = lower cowl hinges
>>> 0:15 = blend scoop to lower cowl
>>> 0:18 = nose wheel fairing
>>> 0:24 = nose gear fairing
>>> 0:30 = U620/621 cowl brackets
>>> 0:32 = fiberglass gear fairings
>>>
>>> HTH,
>>> brian
>>> http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>>> JTAnon(at)AOL.com
>>> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV7-List: Orndorff videos index
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> Has anyone indexed the Orndoff videos. Specifically the finish kit
>>> set?
>>>
>>> John McDonnell
>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>>
>>> ---
>>>
>>> ---
>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>>
>>> ---
>>>
>>>
>>> _-
>>> =====================================================================
>>> _->
>>> _-
>>> =====================================================================
>>> _-
>>> =====================================================================
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> _-
>> =====================================================================
>> _->
>> _-
>> =====================================================================
>> _-
>> =====================================================================
>> _-
>> =====================================================================
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sargentclt(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lead counter weights |
I used a rasp and then a fine file to get it the way I wanted. Hope that
helps.
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bellwa77(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | VS Rudder Faring Holes |
Hello Folks,
I am getting ready to rivet the rudder. Some of the skin to rib holes are
left open for the farings. Does anyone know if these are suppossed to be dimpled
along with all the others. Thanks
Andy
RV7 or 7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bellwa77(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: VS Rudder Faring Holes |
Sorry, I meant the faring holes for the Vertical Stabilizer.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VS Rudder Faring Holes |
Andy,
My 2 cents is not to bother thinking about where that fairing will attach
yet. It's just as easy to drill the screw hole(s) between rivets, rather
than trying to locate them on a rivet hole. My point is don't sweat it now.
If you do choose to co-locate screw holes on existing rivet holes, don't
dimple 'em.
For what it's worth, I dimpled & riveted every hole. When I mounted my
fairing I just drilled new holes for the screws & nutplates. It's not a big
deal.
The one area where it matters much more (imho) is on F-709. I had riveted
that entirely, and had to drill a couple of rivets out for the screw holes.
It's less trivial to drill new holes between rivets in that spot, and much
more straightforward to use existing rivet holes. You'll see what I mean.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bellwa77(at)AOL.com>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: VS Rudder Faring Holes
>
> Sorry, I meant the faring holes for the Vertical Stabilizer.
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=kZ7furyoIA3DDM6l74Z9Lwia31j316JMp9OYEC6q+Ux8tbykzj//WX2kadcR8DHM0ZXffEGeMCzQzVQuZhVbZYwsxcEv1bJZK/iAQmip1aFZgXRZVmYLZkJuzSjH4MiQ4HQNPWFiO8+l+z/ZzpkxWLieTXSDixduTg/6f6kP/fg;
| From: | Thomas Hadley <thomas_hadley(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | My rv7 Quick Build kit is for sale |
I have a RV7a QB kit for sale.
The empennage is complete (built under the supervision
of George Orendorff), and the autopilot has been
installed in the wing. The wings have all the control
surfaces installed. These were also installed under
the supervision of George. In addition, I have the
wing light kit, and the strobe light kit (Whelen)
still in the box. All purchased from Van's.
I have a dimpler, an air squeezer and many special
tools. Also, Dupont Vari-prime primer, and
fiberglassing tools and products. Also have a nice
workbench.
The workmanship on this kit is excellent. Everything
has been primed with vari-prime and all metal work is
excellent. I haven't done any fiberglassing
I'll sell it all for around $25,000.
I live in Euless, Texas. Telephone 817-685-2120.
Tom Hadley
=====
Tom Hadley
RV7a
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My rv7 Quick Build kit is for sale |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Damn...your a month too late for me...:(
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas Hadley
Subject: RV7-List: My rv7 Quick Build kit is for sale
I have a RV7a QB kit for sale.
The empennage is complete (built under the supervision
of George Orendorff), and the autopilot has been
installed in the wing. The wings have all the control
surfaces installed. These were also installed under
the supervision of George. In addition, I have the
wing light kit, and the strobe light kit (Whelen)
still in the box. All purchased from Van's.
I have a dimpler, an air squeezer and many special
tools. Also, Dupont Vari-prime primer, and
fiberglassing tools and products. Also have a nice
workbench.
The workmanship on this kit is excellent. Everything
has been primed with vari-prime and all metal work is excellent. I
haven't done any fiberglassing
I'll sell it all for around $25,000.
I live in Euless, Texas. Telephone 817-685-2120.
Tom Hadley
=====
Tom Hadley
RV7a
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <brown_rj(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | thinking about buying |
Hello all,
I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and why you
bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the distance
between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and that of a
Warrior..
Tks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis(at)defence.gov.au> |
| Subject: | thinking about buying |
Ron,
They are different aircraft to meet differing needs.
The RV7 is the typical RV family design - an aerobatic fun machine that has
a fairly good cross country performance. To get good sportplane style
performance, at the weight needed to provide a strong aerobatic airframe,
largish engines are required - 160-200hp.
To cater for those who do not need or desire aerobatic capability the RV9
was designed to be a cheap and very efficient non-arobatic cross country
cruiser.
Hence a modernised RV6 fuselage was married to a lightweight wing. Span was
increased to give good high altitude cruise performance, and as a side
effect good runway performance. Because it is light and non-aerobatic
smaller, cheaper engines are suitable in the 125-160hp range.
Take your choice, but they are very different planes for different missions
at very different total cost.
PS, they perform a lot better if you throw away the A.
Tail draggers forever.
David Francis, RV7 VH-ZEE, Canberra, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Brown [mailto:brown_rj(at)bellsouth.net]
Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
Hello all,
I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and
that of a Warrior..
Tks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
Eh...since you posted this to the rv7-list, you gotta expect some pretty
biased answers. Here's mine...
The cliche: If you wanted to fly a trainer, you'd keep dumping money into
your 172E. If you want to fly a 200+mph aerobatic efficient little speed
demon -- that is just as stable but more solid and defines "obedient" -- go
with the RV-7[A]. ;-)
But really, build any RV and you can't lose. If you do build a -9A, though,
try to make sure you won't outgrow it -- or be prepared to build a 2nd RV if
you do.
Personally, I like having the versatility. You can fly an RV-7 like an
RV-9, but NOT vice versa.
I've never heard anybody say, "Man, I wish I had less power," or "Man, if
only this plane was a few knots slower."
An O-360 equipped RV-7A versus an O-320 equipped RV-9A...what's the
difference in total cost to build? My guess is essentially nothing.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Brown" <brown_rj(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
>
> Hello all,
> I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and
that of a Warrior..
> Tks
> Ron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
Hi Ron,
I detect you being a bit nervous about the flying and landing qualities of
an RV. Yep, it is not like your 172, but what a challenge.
When you get to that magic day, and at last fly your creation, and another
member of the family, that it is feet on the rudder, one hand on the stick,
and the other on the power, you are in charge, and you fly it as pilot in
command.
I have heaps of time in production aircraft, but I am realy looking forward
to finishing my 7, and facing the challenge.
However, like you it, will be with a certain amount of apprehension.
Stan Jones
-------Original Message-------
From: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, November 22, 2004 15:51:47
Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
Hello all,
I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and
that of a Warrior..
Tks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
Here here David, biff the A
Tail draggers are the way to go.
Stan Jones.
Here we go again
-------Original Message-------
From: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, November 22, 2004 14:43:47
Subject: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED RE: RV7-List: thinking about buying
gov.au>
Ron,
They are different aircraft to meet differing needs.
The RV7 is the typical RV family design - an aerobatic fun machine that has
a fairly good cross country performance. To get good sportplane style
performance, at the weight needed to provide a strong aerobatic airframe,
largish engines are required - 160-200hp.
To cater for those who do not need or desire aerobatic capability the RV9
was designed to be a cheap and very efficient non-arobatic cross country
cruiser.
Hence a modernised RV6 fuselage was married to a lightweight wing. Span was
increased to give good high altitude cruise performance, and as a side
effect good runway performance. Because it is light and non-aerobatic
smaller, cheaper engines are suitable in the 125-160hp range.
Take your choice, but they are very different planes for different missions
at very different total cost.
PS, they perform a lot better if you throw away the A.
Tail draggers forever.
David Francis, RV7 VH-ZEE, Canberra, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Brown [mailto:brown_rj(at)bellsouth.net]
Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
Hello all,
I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and
that of a Warrior..
Tks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter DeCraene" <peterdecraene(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
Ron,
I have to agree with Dan's answer. I have flown both the 9A and 7A. The
biggest difference in they way that they handle in cruise is the stick
force. The 9 is solid where the 7 requires light force to put in in a turn.
I tested my auto pilot this weekend and it will make a long cross country
easy. In the patern both airplanes handle about the same. The 9 will float
a little more but nothing like the 172. I was apprehensive about doing my
first flight and even considered letting someone else do the honors until I
did transition training. After that I felt confident that I could handle
the airplane. Go with the the 7 if you think you might want to do a roll
every now and then, (once your flying it you will) and try to stay current
while you build.
Pete DeCraene
N526PD RV-7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Brown" <brown_rj(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
>
> Hello all,
> I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
> why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
> distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E.
> and that of a Warrior..
> Tks
> Ron
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron(at)aerojet.com> |
| Subject: | thinking about buying |
I went with the 7A for the "Walter Mitty" factor - I just thought it would
be cool to be able to do aerobatics occasionally, even though I don't really
know if I'll like it. After all, one reason I sold my 172 is I was getting
a little bored with straight-and-level. I also reasoned that the airplane
would have a little better performance and be a little stronger structurally
thant the -9. Don't let anyone talk you out of the nosewheel - it's nice to
be able to land in a crosswind.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
Hello all,
I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and
that of a Warrior..
Tks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
Why can't you land in a cross wind with a tail dragger?
Herron, Al wrote:
>
>I went with the 7A for the "Walter Mitty" factor - I just thought it would
>be cool to be able to do aerobatics occasionally, even though I don't really
>know if I'll like it. After all, one reason I sold my 172 is I was getting
>a little bored with straight-and-level. I also reasoned that the airplane
>would have a little better performance and be a little stronger structurally
>thant the -9. Don't let anyone talk you out of the nosewheel - it's nice to
>be able to land in a crosswind.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
>
>
>Hello all,
>I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
>why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
>distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and
>that of a Warrior..
>Tks
>Ron
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Franz Fux" <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com> |
| Subject: | thinking about buying |
Because he made a joke trying to bait some of you. Its always fun to watch.
Franz
RV7Eh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman Younie
Subject: Re: RV7-List: thinking about buying
Why can't you land in a cross wind with a tail dragger?
Herron, Al wrote:
>
>I went with the 7A for the "Walter Mitty" factor - I just thought it would
>be cool to be able to do aerobatics occasionally, even though I don't
really
>know if I'll like it. After all, one reason I sold my 172 is I was getting
>a little bored with straight-and-level. I also reasoned that the airplane
>would have a little better performance and be a little stronger
structurally
>thant the -9. Don't let anyone talk you out of the nosewheel - it's nice
to
>be able to land in a crosswind.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
>
>
>Hello all,
>I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
>why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
>distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and
>that of a Warrior..
>Tks
>Ron
>
>
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
Of course you can land in a crosswind with a tail dragger. That's what the
rudder pedals are for.
-------Original Message-------
From: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 07:53:14
Subject: Re: RV7-List: thinking about buying
Why can't you land in a cross wind with a tail dragger?
Herron, Al wrote:
>
>I went with the 7A for the "Walter Mitty" factor - I just thought it would
>be cool to be able to do aerobatics occasionally, even though I don't
really
>know if I'll like it. After all, one reason I sold my 172 is I was getting
>a little bored with straight-and-level. I also reasoned that the airplane
>would have a little better performance and be a little stronger
structurally
>thant the -9. Don't let anyone talk you out of the nosewheel - it's nice to
>be able to land in a crosswind.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
>
>
>Hello all,
>I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
>why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is the
>distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E. and
>that of a Warrior..
>Tks
>Ron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Williams <Tramsootru(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
Some people just don't want the "adventure" of the tailwheel. :)
Something's gotta seperate the men from the boys.. LOL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: thinking about buying
>
> Of course you can land in a crosswind with a tail dragger. That's what the
> rudder pedals are for.
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 07:53:14
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: thinking about buying
>
>
> Why can't you land in a cross wind with a tail dragger?
>
> Herron, Al wrote:
>
> >
> >I went with the 7A for the "Walter Mitty" factor - I just thought it
would
> >be cool to be able to do aerobatics occasionally, even though I don't
> really
> >know if I'll like it. After all, one reason I sold my 172 is I was
getting
> >a little bored with straight-and-level. I also reasoned that the airplane
> >would have a little better performance and be a little stronger
> structurally
> >thant the -9. Don't let anyone talk you out of the nosewheel - it's nice
to
> >be able to land in a crosswind.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
> >To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV7-List: thinking about buying
> >
> >
> >
> >Hello all,
> >I am pondering the 7A or the 9A..I'm sure you guys have some opinions and
> >why you bought the 7..If you have a minute help me out...Also, what is
the
> >distance between the landing gear, I'm trying to compare it to my 172E.
and
> >that of a Warrior..
> >Tks
> >Ron
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> |
I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at the
cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good as I could
not position the wood blocks properly due to the stiffeners, the net result
is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90 degrees to the trailing edge.
Not sure what I can do apart from buying new skin and stiffeners and
starting over. I thought about cutting this area out and making an end cap
rib and riveting it in position.
Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
Strikes me this would have been easier to do first before the stiffeners
were installed and the sharp skin bend made but I was following the
directions.
Dave (irritated on last elevator waiting for wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
> It flies like a much bigger
> airplane than it is.
Careful in reading into that comment. I know what Dan means and totally
agree with him, but it doesn't feel like anything "big" per se.
It's more responsive, and more obedient...which tends to highlight either
the pilot's skill or lack thereof...which in my opinion makes the RV an
*excellent* plane to fly. It makes just about any pilot better, because it
doesn't obscure bad habits like other planes do. Sloppy rudder work, you
(and your passengers) are gonna know about it. Over-controlling, you'll
know about it. It doesn't take more than about 20 minutes in flight or a
handful of takeoffs and landings to build your finesse up. It's all about a
light touch, just fingertip pressure in most phases of flight.
That said, the plane is not twitchy or unpredictable. It does what the
pilot commands it to do. Trim it up and take your hands & feet off the
controls. Very stable.
In bumps it's more susceptible to larger roll excursions being induced than,
say, a Mooney or a "bigger" plane. But like any other plane, it's usually
best not to over-control it, just let it ride the bumps and use fingertip
pressure to keep it in check (or click on the autopilot).
"Bigger" planes tend to have more control force. I use the example of the
Mooney again...at higher airspeeds, control force in a Mooney gets very
stiff. In the RV, it does stiffens up, but proportionately less -- control
break-out force is much lower than in most spam cans capable of indicating
150-160 knots in cruise. In your Cessna 172E, you probably never get fast
enough to feel the same type of effect.
"Bigger" planes also tend to feel heavier on approach and landing.
Sometimes, even when a bigger plane is trimmed, you feel like you have to
tug at the yoke -- specifically a Skylane, which produces a very heavy feel
in the flare. In some planes & conditions it's not unusual to use full
aileron inputs to counteract gusts, turbulence, what have you. In my RV,
the only time the stick has ever hit the stop in flight has been when doing
rolls or stalls (stick back). You have so much more control authority in an
RV than in a bigger plane. It gets "mushy" relatively speaking, but it
still takes less control movement than you might imagine if you've never
flown one before. Again, "obedient" is the word I use.
I tend to associate "bigger" with a heavier feel. The RV is anything but
heavy in feel.
Experience it firsthand. Go get a ride in an RV-7 and make sure the pilot
lets you do some flying! ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
In a message dated 11/23/04 10:53:48 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
>
> >It flies like a much bigger
> >airplane than it is.
>
> Careful in reading into that comment. I know what Dan means and totally
> agree with him, but it doesn't feel like anything "big" per se.
>
>
You're right Dan C. Very good explanation. What I meant to say was that it
doesn't fly like you might expect a plane its size to fly. That being twitchy
and unstable. I have only been flying about 6 years -- about 600 hours, and
found the RV7A to be very easy to learn how to fly. The 200 hp actually makes
it easier to handle, in my opinion. You don't have to wonder if you'll have
enough runway! If you rotate a little too early, let off the elevator a
little and up she goes, anyway. Now, don't flame me for flying sloppy, I'm only
speaking in relative terms here.
Dan H.
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | thinking about buying |
I have flown the RV-6, the 6A, the 7 and the 9A. Every one is a dream to
fly after flying rented 172's, 182's, T-210's, V-tails, Bellanca's, Piper's
and Mooney's for years. Tail wheel vs. nose wheel? I prefer recent
technology. We've been to the moon and back since tail wheels were
invented.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV7-List: thinking about buying
> It flies like a much bigger
> airplane than it is.
Careful in reading into that comment. I know what Dan means and totally
agree with him, but it doesn't feel like anything "big" per se.
It's more responsive, and more obedient...which tends to highlight either
the pilot's skill or lack thereof...which in my opinion makes the RV an
*excellent* plane to fly. It makes just about any pilot better, because it
doesn't obscure bad habits like other planes do. Sloppy rudder work, you
(and your passengers) are gonna know about it. Over-controlling, you'll
know about it. It doesn't take more than about 20 minutes in flight or a
handful of takeoffs and landings to build your finesse up. It's all about a
light touch, just fingertip pressure in most phases of flight.
That said, the plane is not twitchy or unpredictable. It does what the
pilot commands it to do. Trim it up and take your hands & feet off the
controls. Very stable.
In bumps it's more susceptible to larger roll excursions being induced than,
say, a Mooney or a "bigger" plane. But like any other plane, it's usually
best not to over-control it, just let it ride the bumps and use fingertip
pressure to keep it in check (or click on the autopilot).
"Bigger" planes tend to have more control force. I use the example of the
Mooney again...at higher airspeeds, control force in a Mooney gets very
stiff. In the RV, it does stiffens up, but proportionately less -- control
break-out force is much lower than in most spam cans capable of indicating
150-160 knots in cruise. In your Cessna 172E, you probably never get fast
enough to feel the same type of effect.
"Bigger" planes also tend to feel heavier on approach and landing.
Sometimes, even when a bigger plane is trimmed, you feel like you have to
tug at the yoke -- specifically a Skylane, which produces a very heavy feel
in the flare. In some planes & conditions it's not unusual to use full
aileron inputs to counteract gusts, turbulence, what have you. In my RV,
the only time the stick has ever hit the stop in flight has been when doing
rolls or stalls (stick back). You have so much more control authority in an
RV than in a bigger plane. It gets "mushy" relatively speaking, but it
still takes less control movement than you might imagine if you've never
flown one before. Again, "obedient" is the word I use.
I tend to associate "bigger" with a heavier feel. The RV is anything but
heavy in feel.
Experience it firsthand. Go get a ride in an RV-7 and make sure the pilot
lets you do some flying! ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | RV7 List Thinking about Buying |
Prior to purchasing an RV I owned 4 different Cessnas including a 172, 2 - 182s,
and a 170B. A few years ago I became interested in RVs and finally purchased
an already built RV6 a few months ago. It is a very nice plane with a 180HP
Lyc and a constant speed prop. At purchase time I had never piloted a low
wing plane and had about 100 hours of Cessna 170 tail dragger time. I am having
the time of my life with this new RV6. I now have about 15 or 20 hours in
it (6 of which was dual time), and while I certainly respect the plane and am
not overconfident in it, it is comfortable for me at this point.
The RV6 is at least as easy to take-off and land as any plane I have flown....probably
easier.....and frankly tail draggers are more enjoyable for me, although
I fully understand that not everyone shares that enthusiasm for them. Additionally
I like the agility, speed, cross country worthiness, and short field
performance of the RVs.
My feeling is that no matter what model of RV you decide to purchase you will enjoy
it. My only counsel would be, since you will probably move up the RV learning
curve pretty quickly....think ahead and honestly evaluate the type of flying
you enjoy so you dont have to look back and wish you had purchased more engine
and prop than you did.
Mike Robertson, at Van's homecoming, kindly gave me a ride in his 9A and that is
one VERY nice plane (thanks Mike!)....but as Dan Checkoway (I think) aptly stated,
you can fly a 7 like a 9, but not the other way around....but then you
may not need the flying characteristics of a 7...Mike's 9A was a beauty, was very
agile, and flew very nicely.
To summarize....its all up to you....and generally speaking, you wont go wrong
with an RV.
Good luck.
Tony Marshall
www.lambros.com
P.O. Box 906
Polson, MT 59860
800-432-6828 Office
406-249-0835 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking about buying |
We've been to the moon & back since nose wheels were invented. too. Come
to think of it, we've been to the moon & back since Lycomings were
invented. Which recent technology is powering your plane? ;-)
Actually, a trike is likely more valuable on the market & will certainly
have a larger base of potential buyers if you need to sell.
Charlie
(lazy prefer tailwheel to keep me honest & alert
but have no problem with better pilots preferring nosewheels)
Imken wrote:
>
>I have flown the RV-6, the 6A, the 7 and the 9A. Every one is a dream to
>fly after flying rented 172's, 182's, T-210's, V-tails, Bellanca's, Piper's
>and Mooney's for years. Tail wheel vs. nose wheel? I prefer recent
>technology. We've been to the moon and back since tail wheels were
>invented.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: thinking about buying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian J. Decker" <bdecker(at)blueroofranch.com> |
I made a similar mistake on my RV-8 a couple of years ago. I wasn't happy
with the bends so I removed the "ears" and fabricated a small piece that I
could pro-seal in place. I think it looked better than the folds when I was
done.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Figgins
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV7-List: elevator
--> <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net>
I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at the
cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good as I could
not position the wood blocks properly due to the stiffeners, the net result
is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90 degrees to the trailing edge.
Not sure what I can do apart from buying new skin and stiffeners and
starting over. I thought about cutting this area out and making an end cap
rib and riveting it in position.
Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
Strikes me this would have been easier to do first before the stiffeners
were installed and the sharp skin bend made but I was following the
directions.
Dave (irritated on last elevator waiting for wings)
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: [VAF Mailing List] elevator |
Thanks everyone for the input (nice to know I am not alone 8>) ) I have
decided to go the cap rib route for the elevator and the tab
Dave
_____
From: David Brand [mailto:dbrandx(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] elevator
Dave,
I`ve always thought a separate little rib there, as you`ve mentioned,
is a good idea. I managed to finesse mine into a pretty fair rendition of
"per the plans", although for me the tricky part was trimming the bent
down flange so that the inner one didn`t bottom out on the skin surface.
It would be nice if Van provided a max dimension here. I don`t know, maybe
he does, now. Not when my plans were drawn in late `96. If you look at
enough RVs at the different fly-ins, you`ll eventually come across
examples of the rib method. I`ve seen a couple three over the years. In
fact, I think "Franklinstein" (the RV-8 prototype) is one example.
Dave
Brand 80254 N254LF
--- David Figgins
wrote:
>
> I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at
> the
> cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good as I
> could
> not position the wood blocks properly due to the stiffeners, the net
> result
> is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90 degrees to the trailing
> edge.
> Not sure what I can do apart from buying new skin and stiffeners and
> starting over. I thought about cutting this area out and making an end
> cap
> rib and riveting it in position.
> Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
> Strikes me this would have been easier to do first before the stiffeners
> were installed and the sharp skin bend made but I was following the
> directions.
>
> Dave (irritated on last elevator waiting for wings)
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | allenblck(at)netscape.net |
| Subject: | Removing protective plastic |
I think I read a few weeks back that someone was having trouble removing the plastic
that comes on the aluminum skins. Take your electric heatgun and heat it
just a little and it ususlly comes right off.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Lister Comments - Please Support The Lists |
Dear Listers,
Wow! People have been including some very nice comments along with their
Contributions lately! I've included another set of below and will send
another set in a couple of days.
Guys, I really appreciate your kind words and support. In the last few
days, the contributions have really started to come in and its looking like
support this year may slightly surpass last year's. There's still a few
days left in this year's Fund Raiser, so if you've been waiting until the
last minute to make your Contribution, now's the time!
Make Your Contribution Today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
----------------- More of What Listers Are Saying... --------------------
Every morning 5:30 am, coffee and the "List". It's how I start my day.
Robert G.
The list is still my favorite aviation magazine.
Roger H.
Great resource, without the distraction of pop ups and ads!
Douglas D.
I look forward to my daily list reading almost as much as my coffee!
Hal K.
Great service!
Aaron G.
I have made some great friends, because of it!
Bob D.
Great resource!!
Richard S.
I learn something of value every time I read the messages.
Stan S.
Great list!
Thomas E.
Now that I am close to completion of my [homebuilt], I look back
and wonder how I could ever have made it this far without [the Lists].
Jeff O.
Outstanding site and administration.
Anthony S.
Great forum for our projects.
Darrel M.
I have become a List Addict!
George M.
A very helpful resource for me.
Dennis K.
Great for staying up on the latest.
Forrest L.
Valuable benefit for the users.
George A.
Great tool for all [builders].
Tony M.
Can't tell you how much I appreciate the archives.
Ken B.
I really enjoy the sharing of information and the "discussions" that come up.
Ross S.
[The List] reminds us home builders that help is just a few clicks away.
Danny W.
A great resource!
Christopher S.
Always a pleasure to support this list!
Richard W.
Thanks for helping all of us build better aircraft.
John P.
Great list(s)for data, info and making friends.
John S.
[The] List has helped me much with my building process.
Raimo T.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting the aileron |
Folks:
I'm just about finished with the wings and am just tidying up before
slapping on the bottom skins. This afternoon, I figured I'd grease up the
bellcrank bolt and finish that whole scene. The ailerons and flaps lined up
very nicely. I did have to use the Dremel tool to enlarge the hole in the
rear spar (mostly topside) to keep the pushrod to the aileron from catching
any of the rear spar. Now, the one thing I did notice after completing that
is that at some point in the down travel (aileron down), that pushrod hits
the outboard edge of that hole in the rear spar....and that hole is right up
flush with the aileron bracket.
I'm just wondering if that's normal and is actually beyond the down limit
of the aileron (I figure there ARE aileron stops to be installed somewhere
but it doesn't seem to be on the wing plans that I can see) or whether this
is indicative of a problem.
Regards,
Bob
St. Paul, Minn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting the aileron |
Up travel on the other aileron is gonna limit down travel on that aileron.
But if, once all the controls are connected (in other words don't bother
now), you still have a clearance issue, just dremel the hole out. Or dremel
it out now that access is easy.
My point is that until it's all rigged you may not know what you need
range-wise. Or just use the specs Van's spells out in the book. If you can
hit the spec before the pushrod rubs the hole, you'll most likely be fine
(double check once it's all installed together).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Mounting the aileron
>
> Folks:
> I'm just about finished with the wings and am just tidying up before
> slapping on the bottom skins. This afternoon, I figured I'd grease up the
> bellcrank bolt and finish that whole scene. The ailerons and flaps lined
up
> very nicely. I did have to use the Dremel tool to enlarge the hole in the
> rear spar (mostly topside) to keep the pushrod to the aileron from
catching
> any of the rear spar. Now, the one thing I did notice after completing
that
> is that at some point in the down travel (aileron down), that pushrod hits
> the outboard edge of that hole in the rear spar....and that hole is right
up
> flush with the aileron bracket.
>
> I'm just wondering if that's normal and is actually beyond the down
limit
> of the aileron (I figure there ARE aileron stops to be installed somewhere
> but it doesn't seem to be on the wing plans that I can see) or whether
this
> is indicative of a problem.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob
> St. Paul, Minn.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bellwa77(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Edge Distance Problem |
Hi folks,
Working on the HS
I just finished drilling the HS-405 thru theHS-702 and then 714 and 710
reiforcement bars. That came out fine. When drilling the HS-405 thru the 702 and
the HS-404, one of the holes came out too close to the edge of the 404 flange.
Remeber the one that had to be cut to fit between the reinforcement bars? I
got about one rivet diameter from the edge, if that. What do you suggest? Should
I move toward the center 3 rivet diameters from the offending hole and put in
another hole. If so, should I fill the bad hole with a rivet too? Or should I
order another 404. Thanks for your help. Its a real Bummer
Andy Bell
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Edge Distance Problem |
Andy
Does it look like this?
http://www.kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/2F04-9-21(21-35).jpg
If it does, just go ahead and put a rivet in it. There are so many rivets in
this area holding the whole thing together, it's not going to matter. When I
did this I agonized over it for a long time. My tech counsellor came over
and looked at it and said it was fine.
Bill King
www.kane-king.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bellwa77(at)AOL.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Edge Distance Problem
>
> Hi folks,
> Working on the HS
> I just finished drilling the HS-405 thru theHS-702 and then 714 and 710
> reiforcement bars. That came out fine. When drilling the HS-405 thru the
> 702 and
> the HS-404, one of the holes came out too close to the edge of the 404
> flange.
> Remeber the one that had to be cut to fit between the reinforcement bars?
> I
> got about one rivet diameter from the edge, if that. What do you suggest?
> Should
> I move toward the center 3 rivet diameters from the offending hole and put
> in
> another hole. If so, should I fill the bad hole with a rivet too? Or
> should I
> order another 404. Thanks for your help. Its a real Bummer
>
> Andy Bell
> RV7A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: Edge Distance Problem |
In a message dated 11/27/04 11:42:15 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
Bellwa77(at)AOL.com writes:
> Should
> I move toward the center 3 rivet diameters from the offending hole and put
> in
> another hole. If so, should I fill the bad hole with a rivet too? Or should
> I
> order another 404. Thanks for your help. Its a real Bummer
>
> Andy Bell
> RV7A
>
Andy,
That seems like a perfectly reasonable thing to do. Put a rivet in the bad
hole too. Put the factory head in the side with the edge problem. Don't
overdo it when setting that one. Quit poutin' and git back to work!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying since July)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bellwa77(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: Edge Distance Problem |
Thanks folks for relieving me of that stress. Dan, I wanted to send a picture
to the list but didn't know how. I don't have a website yet. But mine looks
alot like Bill's. I will do as you all suggest. When your wheels first leave
the ground does your mind flash back to all the little things that weren't quite
right?? Thansk again
Andy Bell
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Edge Distance Problem |
> When your wheels first leave
> the ground does your mind flash back to all the little things that weren't
quite
> right??
Trust me, rivets in the HS were the LAST thing on my mind. All I cared
about was that the fan kept spinning. Engine, electrical, instrumentation,
and most importantly FEEL (rigging, control responsiveness, etc.) were the
things I was thinking about on the first several flights.
The only time I even bothered to think about rivets was when I was doing G
envelope expansion. Creak...squeak...groan...just kidding. Unlike other
non-RV planes I've flown, this thing doesn't make a friggin' sound when you
load it. Only the pilot groans over 4G. ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting the aileron |
Bob,
Don't forget your ailerons may/may not require stops for aileron travel.
The ailerons don't travel as much as the hinges may allow if the stops are not
in place.
You shouldn't have any interference problems once your travel is measured.
Hope this helps,
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | B Tomm <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
| Subject: | tinted canopy or not? |
When I opened my finish kit I realized that I had forgotten to make a
decision on the tint. Van's did it for me and sent it tinted grey. I was
(still am) contemplating ordeing the canopy with no tint. I fly with a
friend in a Q2 with no tint in his bubble and I really like the to see all
the colors in full especially the varying shades of grey in the clouds. I
think the greyness of the clouds helps to judge the weather associated with
them. Should I re-order or keep what I got? I'd like to hear from those
who are flying with and without grey tint.
Bevan
RV7A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis(at)defence.gov.au> |
| Subject: | tinted canopy or not? |
Bevan,
I consulted Jon Johanson on the subject of tint before placing my order,
particularly because I want to fly at night. He came back very clearly in
favour of the tint. Thats a lot of experience talking there.
These little planes fly high and fly far. Up at 10,000 there is not much
pollution to filter the sun, and if you fly out of the cloudy/smoggy areas
into one of the sunnier regions you will suffer under an unfiltered sun. You
get to appreciate it in sunny snowy conditions too.
According to Jon, the tint is no significant impediment to night flight and
helps filter the frizzling summer sun.
Regards, David Francis, just beginning to frizzle under the first hot spell
of the Australian summer.
-----Original Message-----
From: B Tomm [mailto:fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net]
Subject: RV7-List: tinted canopy or not?
When I opened my finish kit I realized that I had forgotten to make a
decision on the tint. Van's did it for me and sent it tinted grey. I was
(still am) contemplating ordeing the canopy with no tint. I fly with a
friend in a Q2 with no tint in his bubble and I really like the to see all
the colors in full especially the varying shades of grey in the clouds. I
think the greyness of the clouds helps to judge the weather associated with
them. Should I re-order or keep what I got? I'd like to hear from those
who are flying with and without grey tint.
Bevan
RV7A fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
Fellow builders,
I am sealing up my fuel tanks and wanted some information about curing time and
temperature.
When I began sealing (multiple day event) a cold front came in and the temperature
dropped in the 50's during the day (shop temp around 60). Shop temp dropped
during the night to low 50's I think. The next day it was a little warmer
heated the shop a little (small electric heater) shop temp around 65. Nighttime
temp mid 50's. Next day warmer still, nighttime temps mid 50's. Then rather
cold again with nighttime temps below freezing, shop time overnight high 40's
I think.
During the sealing process (using cartridges) I would dispense about half the cartridge
and refrigerate the remainder. About 2 to 3 hours later I would use
the remainder stored in the refrigerator.
As I mentioned I had several sealing sessions and am finding that the ProSeal is
curing at different rates. Some are rather slow, some are faster.
What have others experienced when it came to temperature and time? How long does
it take to cure when experiencing the temperature swings like I have.
I now am running the heater all night to keep the shop warmer.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Re-application of Proseal over Proseal |
Fellow builders,
I am in the process of sealing my tanks and am ready to install the rear baffle.
The inboard and outboard ribs when install/sealed a few days ago. After examining
some of the filleting on the inside of the inboard and outboard ribs,
I may want to add some additional sealant to increase the fillet in a few locations.
What preparation other then cleaning with MEK/Acetone is recommended?
Even though I worked in a open/ventilated shop, I inhaled way to many MEK and ProSeal
fumes during the sealing process over the last week. Know wonder my Thanksgiving
dinner tasted like ProSeal.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
Paul,
I had about the same temp swings as you only mine always were in the 55 to
85 range. It took about four days for the entire batch to fully cure. I
also put the cartridge in the refrigerator between uses and that allowed me
to get about 2 hours use out of them. Hope this helps.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Merems
rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV-9A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: ProSeal curing?
Fellow builders,
I am sealing up my fuel tanks and wanted some information about curing time
and temperature.
When I began sealing (multiple day event) a cold front came in and the
temperature dropped in the 50's during the day (shop temp around 60). Shop
temp dropped during the night to low 50's I think. The next day it was a
little warmer heated the shop a little (small electric heater) shop temp
around 65. Nighttime temp mid 50's. Next day warmer still, nighttime temps
mid 50's. Then rather cold again with nighttime temps below freezing, shop
time overnight high 40's I think.
During the sealing process (using cartridges) I would dispense about half
the cartridge and refrigerate the remainder. About 2 to 3 hours later I
would use the remainder stored in the refrigerator.
As I mentioned I had several sealing sessions and am finding that the
ProSeal is curing at different rates. Some are rather slow, some are
faster.
What have others experienced when it came to temperature and time? How long
does it take to cure when experiencing the temperature swings like I have.
I now am running the heater all night to keep the shop warmer.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primer debate (wars) |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Yes I checked the archives and read a bunch of interesting opinions on
what kind of primer to use. All of the opinions (I read) had a similar
opinion though and went something like "OF course one HAS to prime the
unprotected 6061T6 'cus it has no alclad on it."...Oh really?
As reformed Zenair Zodiac builder (my 7 QB is on the boat) I must say
I'm not so sure about the assumption that non alclad alu will dissappear
before my very eyes...Reason being is that zenairs are made ENITERLY of
6061T6 with no alclad whatsover. In fact it is rare to find such an
aircraft with completly primed inner surfaces because the factory
recommend only zinc cromating the mating surfaces between the 6061
parts. Clearly this is because the movement between the parts might
remove the protective corrosion layer.
5 years ago I finished my Zod and have not seen as much as a hint of
corrosion on my annuals. The prototype has been flying snce 1974 and
apparently is in similar shape.
So what do you all think about that?
Having said that, as EVERYONE else primes everything (except the alclad)
I will do the same, besides there is not that much left on a QB so the 8
cans of NAPA 7220 SEP will hopefully be adequate.
Cheers and see you all when I have the innevitable problems...:)
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
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b=oS3AVsMw/XWs3A4uYLJBXiGnfo+RDkA9V2nbKCUcqDxvp0nzIcFEDhbDS2xKjibhOf/+3jtx4Y/uCR+H4kasrjbOWEiBf0HIGyiuse8Qe0j1BkunnVeDySWxNRl6/8nnQ1Q5Gdture6Zxs0SCv/KkQaeqz2tT2x51pFEcQw87IE;
| From: | Bob Collins <bcollins747_1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal curing? |
I built my first tank in the dead of winter -- more or
less -- in the unheated garage. I worked in
temperatures of about 10 to anywhere near 30 or 40.
The tank sealant was stiff right from the start. But I
had no problems in curing. It cured...well... when it
cured...sometimes it took 5 days.
Then this summer I started building the tank in August
and it was 70 and 80 degrees. I was amazed how much
easier the sealant was to mix and apply. And of course
it cured fast. Then I ended up finishing the 2nd tank
last week...back in the 30s.
All in all...no big deal.
If you want it to cure faster....take a worklight,
stick it in the access hole or drape it over a rib
and into a bay and then put some plastic over it (I
just grab some paint drop cloths from Home Depot.
That'll keep the innards of the tank nice and warm
without costing you and arm and a leg to heat the
garage all night.
I use one of the little Mr. Heaters when I'm working
on the plane in the winter (like I did this morning).
Hey, after a half hour, your body adjusts to the
cooler temperatures although picking up a cold steel
bucking bar and rivet gun in those conditions quickly
teaches you to bring them inside at night.
I do the bottom skins of the wing by myself (leave the
wing in the jig, if you've got long arms, it's not
that big of a deal. But you can't wear any jacket when
doing it because you'll never get your hand inside the
wing to buck.
Bottom line? Don't fret about it.
Bob
St. Paul
--- Merems wrote:
> I am sealing up my fuel tanks and wanted some
> information about curing time and temperature.
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=GwH3g8549SqASDGZTzxo2i079FTCXxEErOM+cNy1IORbkYf9UWs4CaVQUWJIl8Z7s1NYKGlQ20qMlHa8gTXf2ck7ovDHfz+AU2DZNKHWJD6QHJ0TAu1clsxtIR+anuz8G7KvpIVl6Hyy4BKM8HVG2rUD8O7dVVVLe5HvdBaEx10;
| From: | Bob Collins <bcollins747_1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re-application of Proseal over Proseal |
--- Merems wrote:
>
> I am in the process of sealing my tanks and am ready
> to install the rear baffle. The inboard and
> outboard ribs when install/sealed a few days ago.
> After examining some of the filleting on the inside
> of the inboard and outboard ribs, I may want to add
> some additional sealant to increase the fillet in a
> few locations. What preparation other then cleaning
> with MEK/Acetone is recommended?
That's about all I did. BEfore putting the baffle on I
checked some of the fillets for signs of any pinholes
etc and just dabbed a little more ProSeal in there. No
extra work was required.
By the way, I know you work in a ventilated shop, but
wear a respirator when you work with MEK. That stuff
will destroy your neurological system.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis(at)defence.gov.au> |
| Subject: | Primer debate (wars) |
Frank,
Well not EVERYONE primes. Look inside my RV7 and you will see a lovely gold
interior. Your RV7QB comes with a fetching silver interior. Alodine. No
overspray, no cleanup, no spray gun, no weight gain, just a chemically inert
conversion coating.
So the primer war is like most wars, unnecessary.
Glad to see you dont like nosewheels.
Regards, David Francis, Canberra, Australia.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) [mailto:frank.hinde(at)hp.com]
Subject: RV7-List: Primer debate (wars)
Yes I checked the archives and read a bunch of interesting opinions on
what kind of primer to use. All of the opinions (I read) had a similar
opinion though and went something like "OF course one HAS to prime the
unprotected 6061T6 'cus it has no alclad on it."...Oh really?
As reformed Zenair Zodiac builder (my 7 QB is on the boat) I must say
I'm not so sure about the assumption that non alclad alu will dissappear
before my very eyes...Reason being is that zenairs are made ENITERLY of
6061T6 with no alclad whatsover. In fact it is rare to find such an
aircraft with completly primed inner surfaces because the factory
recommend only zinc cromating the mating surfaces between the 6061
parts. Clearly this is because the movement between the parts might
remove the protective corrosion layer.
5 years ago I finished my Zod and have not seen as much as a hint of
corrosion on my annuals. The prototype has been flying snce 1974 and
apparently is in similar shape.
So what do you all think about that?
Having said that, as EVERYONE else primes everything (except the alclad)
I will do the same, besides there is not that much left on a QB so the 8
cans of NAPA 7220 SEP will hopefully be adequate.
Cheers and see you all when I have the innevitable problems...:)
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer debate (wars) |
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>
>Yes I checked the archives and read a bunch of interesting opinions on
>what kind of primer to use. All of the opinions (I read) had a similar
>opinion though and went something like "OF course one HAS to prime the
>unprotected 6061T6 'cus it has no alclad on it."...Oh really?
>
>As reformed Zenair Zodiac builder (my 7 QB is on the boat) I must say
>I'm not so sure about the assumption that non alclad alu will dissappear
>before my very eyes...Reason being is that zenairs are made ENITERLY of
>6061T6 with no alclad whatsover. In fact it is rare to find such an
>aircraft with completly primed inner surfaces because the factory
>recommend only zinc cromating the mating surfaces between the 6061
>parts. Clearly this is because the movement between the parts might
>remove the protective corrosion layer.
>
>5 years ago I finished my Zod and have not seen as much as a hint of
>corrosion on my annuals. The prototype has been flying snce 1974 and
>apparently is in similar shape.
>
>So what do you all think about that?
>
>Having said that, as EVERYONE else primes everything (except the alclad)
>I will do the same, besides there is not that much left on a QB so the 8
>cans of NAPA 7220 SEP will hopefully be adequate.
>
>Cheers and see you all when I have the innevitable problems...:)
>
>Frank
>
Interesting data point on the Zodiac. What do they weigh? I thought that
6061 was much weaker per pound than 2024 but not as corrosion prone
(hence the alclad on 2024). It would still be more corrosion prone than
the pure AL of the alclad coating on the skins, which is probably why
Van's recommends priming.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | removal from the list |
Please remove me from the RV 7 list. Thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net> |
I am to the point on my 7A fuse that I need to install my steps. The
hole diameter in the fuse skin called out in the plans (I think 1 =BD
inches) is perfect for the tube that goes through it. But is not big
enough to clear the weld fillet at intersection of the tube and the
square piece that rivets to the skin. If I make the hole large enough
to clear the filament, I believe that I will end up with an exposed hole
underneath the tube because the bottom of the tube is flush with the
bottom of the square piece. Did anyone else have this problem? Can I
sand down the weld on the bottom part of the tube?
I can=92t find anyone=92s website that shows good pictures or give any
explanation about how they approached this.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A, slow build
Knoxville, TN
bryanhooks(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net> |
| Subject: | Re: steps on RV-7A |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV7-List: steps on RV-7A
I'm at the same point on my slobuild 7-A and haven't found any plans for its
installation?
>
> I am to the point on my 7A fuse that I need to install my steps. The
> hole diameter in the fuse skin called out in the plans (I think 1 =BD
> inches) is perfect for the tube that goes through it. But is not big
> enough to clear the weld fillet at intersection of the tube and the
> square piece that rivets to the skin. If I make the hole large enough
> to clear the filament, I believe that I will end up with an exposed hole
> underneath the tube because the bottom of the tube is flush with the
> bottom of the square piece. Did anyone else have this problem? Can I
> sand down the weld on the bottom part of the tube?
>
>
> I can=92t find anyone=92s website that shows good pictures or give any
> explanation about how they approached this.
>
> Bryan Hooks
> RV-7A, slow build
> Knoxville, TN
> bryanhooks(at)comcast.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
The step kit includes the installation instructions.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Pflimlin
Subject: Re: RV7-List: steps on RV-7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV7-List: steps on RV-7A
I'm at the same point on my slobuild 7-A and haven't found any plans for its
installation?
>
> I am to the point on my 7A fuse that I need to install my steps. The
> hole diameter in the fuse skin called out in the plans (I think 1 =BD
> inches) is perfect for the tube that goes through it. But is not big
> enough to clear the weld fillet at intersection of the tube and the
> square piece that rivets to the skin. If I make the hole large enough
> to clear the filament, I believe that I will end up with an exposed hole
> underneath the tube because the bottom of the tube is flush with the
> bottom of the square piece. Did anyone else have this problem? Can I
> sand down the weld on the bottom part of the tube?
>
>
> I can=92t find anyone=92s website that shows good pictures or give any
> explanation about how they approached this.
>
> Bryan Hooks
> RV-7A, slow build
> Knoxville, TN
> bryanhooks(at)comcast.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
I had a gap beneath the tubes where they exit the fuselage. I reduced the
size of the gaps from the inside with some thin scrap aluminum sheet as best
I could. Then I pushed some pro seal into any remaining openings and
smoothed it off with a little MEK on the tip of my chemical-glove index
finger....now smooth as silk and no air holes.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bryan Hooks
Subject: RV7-List: steps on RV-7A
I am to the point on my 7A fuse that I need to install my steps. The
hole diameter in the fuse skin called out in the plans (I think 1 =BD
inches) is perfect for the tube that goes through it. But is not big
enough to clear the weld fillet at intersection of the tube and the
square piece that rivets to the skin. If I make the hole large enough
to clear the filament, I believe that I will end up with an exposed hole
underneath the tube because the bottom of the tube is flush with the
bottom of the square piece. Did anyone else have this problem? Can I
sand down the weld on the bottom part of the tube?
I can=92t find anyone=92s website that shows good pictures or give any
explanation about how they approached this.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A, slow build
Knoxville, TN
bryanhooks(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net> |
Thanks to all. I'm going to tear into it this weekend. Sounds like
just one more of those things that ya' just gotta make work. I do like
the idea of putting a shim on the backside of the skin. I'll give that
a shot.
-bryan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Imken
Subject: RE: RV7-List: steps on RV-7A
I had a gap beneath the tubes where they exit the fuselage. I reduced
the
size of the gaps from the inside with some thin scrap aluminum sheet as
best
I could. Then I pushed some pro seal into any remaining openings and
smoothed it off with a little MEK on the tip of my chemical-glove index
finger....now smooth as silk and no air holes.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bryan Hooks
Subject: RV7-List: steps on RV-7A
I am to the point on my 7A fuse that I need to install my steps. The
hole diameter in the fuse skin called out in the plans (I think 1 =BD
inches) is perfect for the tube that goes through it. But is not big
enough to clear the weld fillet at intersection of the tube and the
square piece that rivets to the skin. If I make the hole large enough
to clear the filament, I believe that I will end up with an exposed hole
underneath the tube because the bottom of the tube is flush with the
bottom of the square piece. Did anyone else have this problem? Can I
sand down the weld on the bottom part of the tube?
I can=92t find anyone=92s website that shows good pictures or give any
explanation about how they approached this.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A, slow build
Knoxville, TN
bryanhooks(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting Question |
Ok so I have the skins, ribs, and spars of the HS dimpled, primed, etc. and
I have a question.
If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and spars/ribs,
how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
There are spots where the skins appear to have a very slight gap between the
rib/spar to which they attach on spot I noticed this was on the outboard end
of the rear spar to the skin.
I thought about this while I was countersinking my 710/714 but really did
not revisit it until now. If you are dimpling the skin to account for a
flush AN426 on the skin and this same dimple die is used on your ribs/spars,
would there not be a clearance issue with the ribs/spars.
The rivets on the skins sit perfectly flush but I am wondering if this is
normal or if I did something wrong.
Thank You,
Scott
RV-7A
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting Question |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
I just finished my VS and it came out OK...I did have the same concern
but I did not notice and gaps when I rivited it all together.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook
Subject: RV7-List: Riveting Question
Ok so I have the skins, ribs, and spars of the HS dimpled, primed, etc.
and I have a question.
If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and
spars/ribs, how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
There are spots where the skins appear to have a very slight gap between
the rib/spar to which they attach on spot I noticed this was on the
outboard end of the rear spar to the skin.
I thought about this while I was countersinking my 710/714 but really
did not revisit it until now. If you are dimpling the skin to account
for a flush AN426 on the skin and this same dimple die is used on your
ribs/spars, would there not be a clearance issue with the ribs/spars.
The rivets on the skins sit perfectly flush but I am wondering if this
is normal or if I did something wrong.
Thank You,
Scott
RV-7A
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another riveting question |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
take out so presumably no big deal?
I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
Thanks
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
> If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and
> spars/ribs, how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
Use a bigger hammer. ;-)
Are you sure you're getting fully-formed dimples? In theory, the end result
after dimpling should be symmetrical on the top and bottom surface of the
skin. If the dies fit together, then skin dimples should fit into each
other.
Also, quality of dimple dies may play into the equation. I learned late in
the project that not all dimple dies are created equal. Some of the best
dimple dies, which form the cleanest, most properly deep dimples I've seen
are the ones my hangar-mate Linas has:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20041023_dimple_dies.jpg I'll be
getting (or stealing) a set of these before my next project begins.
Your mileage may vary -- at some rare times you may have to "touch up"
dimples using a countersink tool. Try to avoid that if possible, but
whatever works for you!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Franz Fux" <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com> |
| Subject: | Another riveting question |
Just put a piece of masking tape over the part of the gun that contacts the
rivet and it will slide less and will mark the skin less. Other than that
the marks are pretty normal and will come out during the prep for painting.
Franz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
take out so presumably no big deal?
I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
Thanks
Frank
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Another riveting question |
Frank -
You may be hitting too hard.
Try turning the air pressure down.
With my Taylor 2X gun I never use more than 30-psi on -3 rivets.
Use a *regulator* to control the pressure.
The cute little swivel-valve contraption that came with my Cleveland kit
makes a fair swivel and a horrible regulator.
Use the heaviest bucking bar that you can to reduce the number of hits
required.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (tanks closed!)
RV-8 N998GM (HS dimpled)
> except that the flush rivet set marks the skins when driving the 426's.
Frank <
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Listers -
I'm pondering the fuselage order (RV-7 Slider), and would appreciate some
guidance.
I plan to delete the chains (Rocket Steering Link) and boiler valve (Andair)
and add the firewall recess.
What other substitutions or changes would you make if you had it to do over?
Neal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Riveting Question |
Scott, Some builders use "Tank Skin Dimple Dies" from Cleaveland Tool. See
www.cleavelandtool.com
The item number is DIE4263T
When used on the ribs/spars, they provide a slightly deeper dimple for the
dimpled skin to set into. Notice they are only used on the underlying ribs
or spars. A standard 3/32" dimple die is used to dimple the skin. I've
been pleased with the results on my RV-7 empennage.
Don Hull
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott R. Shook [mailto:sshook(at)cox.net]
Subject: RV7-List: Riveting Question
Ok so I have the skins, ribs, and spars of the HS dimpled, primed, etc. and
I have a question.
If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and spars/ribs,
how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
There are spots where the skins appear to have a very slight gap between the
rib/spar to which they attach on spot I noticed this was on the outboard end
of the rear spar to the skin.
I thought about this while I was countersinking my 710/714 but really did
not revisit it until now. If you are dimpling the skin to account for a
flush AN426 on the skin and this same dimple die is used on your ribs/spars,
would there not be a clearance issue with the ribs/spars.
The rivets on the skins sit perfectly flush but I am wondering if this is
normal or if I did something wrong.
Thank You,
Scott
RV-7A
Empennage
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
You may have problems getting the rocket steering link. Repeated requests
for information and how to order have not been answered. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt AU/PC
Subject: RV7-List: Fuselage Parts
Listers -
I'm pondering the fuselage order (RV-7 Slider), and would appreciate some
guidance.
I plan to delete the chains (Rocket Steering Link) and boiler valve (Andair)
and add the firewall recess.
What other substitutions or changes would you make if you had it to do over?
Neal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
On 12/06 11:01, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> > If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and
> > spars/ribs, how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
>
> Use a bigger hammer. ;-)
>
> Are you sure you're getting fully-formed dimples? In theory, the end result
> after dimpling should be symmetrical on the top and bottom surface of the
> skin. If the dies fit together, then skin dimples should fit into each
> other.
>
> Also, quality of dimple dies may play into the equation. I learned late in
> the project that not all dimple dies are created equal. Some of the best
> dimple dies, which form the cleanest, most properly deep dimples I've seen
> are the ones my hangar-mate Linas has:
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20041023_dimple_dies.jpg I'll be
> getting (or stealing) a set of these before my next project begins.
I concur. These dies are fantastic. Plus PART sells a great
pneumatic squeezer for a very good price. And the dimple dies
come with the squeezer, or at least they did when I bought them.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron(at)aerojet.com> |
| Subject: | Another riveting question |
The marks won't hurt anything as long as they're not actual dents in the
skin - you're probably going to paint your plane anyway, right? Even if you
don't the surface marks will polish out. One tip: the mushroom-style sets
(slightly concave surface) are a lot more forgiving of slight misalignments
than the flat set with a "square shoulder". Found this out the hard way
(nothing a little Bondo won't fix!) :
{
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
take out so presumably no big deal?
I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
Thanks
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=IyRzjyt+bVaVaV3Bf2N472rrmn5ZsejI/TfXeWoXDzANCUCVQzstRy/k6wbdrwG8tLghN4knJCPuyhKNeLYEVGcl/F3jgZIrrhSog78FBPUiu4lXTYwkSNdUGLqdyhN3gAYHfUqRKJ30VgEz9S/YTxUXAq+XcGNEOUpIrfQD5WE;
| From: | Frank Stringham <fstringham7a(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi to all
Don't you just love the smell of MEK and Proseal in the morning. Kind of reminds
of Robert Duvall in Apocalyse Now when he said, " don't you just love the smell
of napalm in the morining".....
Had my baptism to the gouuuuuuuuuuuuie stuff this AM. Got all the tools, towels,
Mek, Rubber gloves covered with through away surgical gloves, paint respiriator.............and
went to it. Mixed a cartridge of Proseal: very thick, hard
to mix, and really hard to expel from the cartridge. Used a popcicle stick to
glob the stuff on the aft stiffener of the rudder. Smoothed out.....got some
on the gloves...get new gloves...........the old gloves now stuck to my shoes...........new
gloves now stuck to the rubber gloves ...................get new
rubber gloves covered again with new surgical gloves...................paper
towel moved and now the stuff is on the work table..................back to the
stiffener after clean up of table. Put stiffener in the aft rudder ...tight
fit..........change surgical gloves.......slowly open aft edge of rudder and
push siffener in.....................cleco Aluminum angle to aft edge of rudder.
Boy that baby is as straight as an
arrow..........................................DONE.....Crap I still have to clean
up.................again don';t you just love the smell of Proseal in the
morning.
Now the ?????????How long will the excess proseal keep that is in the cartridge
Thanks for you listening ear and help
Frank @SGU and SLC Ready to start the wing this week!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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| From: | Bob Collins <bcollins747_1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Another riveting question |
Expanding on this a bit more, I've done almost all of
my riveting solo, and that includes the bottom skins
on both wings without any help. I finished the right
wing this weekend and I'm amazed at how nice they came
out.
First, on the subject of marks, don't worry about it.
When you first pull off the blue plastic, it's so nice
and pretty and shiney you just want it to be that way
forever. Then a fingerprint here, a fingerprint there
and all of a sudden they're not shiny anymore. Bummer.
But unless we're talking dings, it doesn't matter.
It's true you can put some masking tape on the rivet
set and that helps. But you really have to monitor the
condition of that tape because as it wears away (and
it'll wear away relatively quickly), it's possible
that as you drive a rivet and the gun slides a little
bit, a little sliver of that adhesive will get under
the rivet. And you'll have a crappy rivet.
I use the swivel head set with the rubber guard (the
one that Cleaveland use to put in their catalog with
the notation, "recommended by others, but not by us."
I never understood why because I think it's great.
Your riveting will improve over time but there are
some principles available to you know which become
clear only through experience and, more important,
bucking by yourself in tight spots.
The most important thing is to prevent the rivet set
from sliding AND to make sure the bucking bar is flat.
If you make sure the gun is centered on the flush
head, and the bucking bar is flat on the shop head
side, you'll be less likely to skid.
How can you check this? Simple. And this works great
when you're bucking blind (that is, you can't see the
bucking bar). Just before you shoot. Push on the
bucking bar. It'll lift the rivet set off the skin. As
it does, does the set, or the gun lean one way or the
other? If it does, it's not centered. So move the gun
up or down slightly.
The other mistake that some people make is putting too
much pressure on the bucking bar when shooting... as
if the harder you push, the better the shop head. It
won't work that way because what you end up doing is
pushing back on the gun, via the rivet, which will
lift the gun off the skin ever so slightly and away
you go.
Just place that bucking bar on the rivet and hold
enough pressure there to keep it there. It'll do all
the work.
Also, check the psi for the gun if it's really
skidding around. It might be possible to lower the
setting to something less likely to make it bounce,
and get better rivets in the process.
Flush rivets are fun to shoot because when you first
start, yeah, they're flush....but you can almost feel
the depression. Eventually, you'll run your finger
over the surface, and you'll have a hard time telling
where the skin ends and the rivet begins.
And finally, the BEST part of the technique you can
learn? Don't take the bucking bar off or the gun off
the material until it's stopped. This sounds like a
real "duh," but I found that counting "one thousand
one, one thousand two" after you let go of the trigger
teaches you a technique that eventually becomes
reflexive.
But, especially on universal heads, you'll be amazed
at how easy is to put a smiley on these things and
much of it is avoidable through just two things:
everything straight and perpendicular....and don't
lift anything off the surface until you're sure you've
stopped.
Bob
St. Paul
--- Franz Fux wrote:
>
>
> Just put a piece of masking tape over the part of
> the gun that contacts the
> rivet and it will slide less and will mark the skin
> less. Other than that
> the marks are pretty normal and will come out during
> the prep for painting.
> Franz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
> George (Corvallis)
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Another riveting question
>
>
> (Corvallis)"
>
>
> Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven
> a solid rivet
> before. They all came out OK except that the flush
> rivet set marks the
> skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a
> scotchbite pad won't
> take out so presumably no big deal?
>
> I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which
> is a little
> trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around
> but as the rivets are
> flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the
> skins?
>
> Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of
> life?
>
> Thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Parts |
When I got my fuselage kit, they did not ship the fairing that fits the wing
to the fuselage. I would ask that it be sent with the fuselage kit and not
the finish kit.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RV7-List: Fuselage Parts
>
> Listers -
>
> I'm pondering the fuselage order (RV-7 Slider), and would appreciate some
> guidance.
>
> I plan to delete the chains (Rocket Steering Link) and boiler valve
(Andair)
> and add the firewall recess.
>
> What other substitutions or changes would you make if you had it to do
over?
>
> Neal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another riveting question |
Frank,
Two things.
One: using Van's riveting tape will help in several ways. Use a piece of
tape only about 2 inches long. Put it across the line of rivets. This will act
not only to hold the rivet in the hole, which I don't even consider to be much
of a benefit, but will act as a target to center up the flush rivet tool.
Where the line of rivets crosses the tape is the exact position of the rivet.
It also acts to protect the skin and the flush rivet tool. It does this by
keeping the tool from picking up soft aluminum from the surface of the skin and
galling the skin. Now, for the next rivet just use the same piece of tape
moving it about 1/8 inch as you place it over the next rivet. You can do about
10
or even 20 rivets with one 2 inch length of tape! You'll save hundreds of
dollars in tape alone! Whoops, I'm getting too excited!
Two: if you are more interested in getting a nice job than in getting done in
a hurry, try pre-squeezing the rivets up to the size that the hole is after
it is dimpled. After dimpling, the holes are about .100 inch. You can set up
your squeezer and do as many rivets as you'll need for a while. I would do
about 50 at a time. This helps in two ways. The skin takes less beating since
the rivets fatten up before the shop head starts to form anyway, and the
rivets are less likely to bend over (even a little) since they are now shorter
when
you start driving them.
The pros on the list will probably flame away at me, but when I started doing
these two things my riveting improved greatly. Yeah, maybe I'm too
particular, but when I'm up at 8500 feet or pulling 4 g's in a steep turn, I'm
glad I
took a little extra time putting it together.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since July -- about 80 hours)
In a message dated 12/6/04 1:51:11 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
frank.hinde(at)hp.com writes:
> Ok so I built my VS this W/E and I have never driven a solid rivet
> before. They all came out OK except that the flush rivet set marks the
> skins when driving the 426's. Nothing a rub with a scotchbite pad won't
> take out so presumably no big deal?
>
> I was doing the riveting and bucking by myself which is a little
> trickier because the 2x gun tends to slide around but as the rivets are
> flush I can't see how you can aviod marking the skins?
>
> Am I doing something wrong or is this just a fact of life?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting Question |
What's the source of these PART dimple dies you guys are referring to?
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Riveting Question
On 12/06 11:01, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> > If you are using the same dimple die for dimpling the skins and
> > spars/ribs, how does one account for the thickness of the skin?
>
> Use a bigger hammer. ;-)
>
> Are you sure you're getting fully-formed dimples? In theory, the end
result
> after dimpling should be symmetrical on the top and bottom surface of the
> skin. If the dies fit together, then skin dimples should fit into each
> other.
>
> Also, quality of dimple dies may play into the equation. I learned late
in
> the project that not all dimple dies are created equal. Some of the best
> dimple dies, which form the cleanest, most properly deep dimples I've
seen
> are the ones my hangar-mate Linas has:
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20041023_dimple_dies.jpg I'll be
> getting (or stealing) a set of these before my next project begins.
I concur. These dies are fantastic. Plus PART sells a great
pneumatic squeezer for a very good price. And the dimple dies
come with the squeezer, or at least they did when I bought them.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
---
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October 02, 2004 - December 07, 2004
RV7-Archive.digest.vol-ag