RV7-Archive.digest.vol-al
February 09, 2006 - September 12, 2006
Bets regards Alf Olav Frog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap attachment? |
Go with the split pin, installed from the center. You'll thank me later.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (812 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alf Olav Frog" <alfolavf(at)online.no>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 8:11 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Flap attachment?
>
> Hi fellow builders!
>
> We've just started working on QB-wings now, and I saw in the manual that
> there were two metods of mounting the flap hinge.
> One was drilling a hole in the inboard aileron bracket, the other one was
> cutting the hinge in half.
>
> Is there a metod that is preferred over the other by you people out there?
>
> By the way; thank you for all the inputs regarding my question about
> heated pitot tube!
> I've gotten alot of ideas and thougts!
>
>
> Bets regards Alf Olav Frog
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap attachment? |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
I drilled the hole but decided I didn't like it so went with the center
eyelet removed method...It will be a lot easier to remove a flep if you
ever had to this way.
Frank
RV7a, final engine connections...then paint!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alf Olav Frog
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 8:12 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Flap attachment?
Hi fellow builders!
We've just started working on QB-wings now, and I saw in the manual that
there were two metods of mounting the flap hinge.
One was drilling a hole in the inboard aileron bracket, the other one
was cutting the hinge in half.
Is there a metod that is preferred over the other by you people out
there?
By the way; thank you for all the inputs regarding my question about
heated pitot tube!
I've gotten alot of ideas and thougts!
Bets regards Alf Olav Frog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Gould <brad20j(at)yahoo.com> |
Remember that your airspeed is one of the most important instruments in unusual
attitude recovery. It's even more critical if you're iced up, since your stall
speeds will go up by an undetermined amount, Vy and Vx will change too, as
will your power required to stay level/climb/etc., so your normal power/attitude/configuration
settings won't be very reliable. Also, you certainly don't want
to mess around too much with flaps if iced up, lest you tempt a tail stall.
Re GPS as a substitute for airspeed, icing is most likely when you have vertical
air currents. Windy, turbulent days, when they're IMC, can have a bunch of
fast accumulating ice. These are the days in which ground speed is at its poorest
as a substitute for airspeed. In a Mooney, on a winter's day with strong
mountain waves, I was cruising at an average of 160 KTAS, but having to "climb"
and "descend" through the waves to maintain altitude. The ground speed upwind
varied from 120 kts to 70 kts. When I turned around, I saw 235 kts ground
speed in the rising air. While I wouldn't have been up there had it been IMC
due to the very high potential for icing that would have been present, there's
no way that the GPS ground speed would have helped me get a feel for airspeed.
If I'm going to be flying anywhere near potential icing, an airspeed indicator
is not something I'd want to sacrifice. This is even if you have an obvious
out, like clear air below, because ATC in some parts of the country is often
fairly inflexible in allowing you to change routes or altitudes, like in the northeast
corridor.
I presently fly an icing certified plane. It's amazing how efficient sharp protrusions
are at collecting ice. The thermometer probe is an excellent ice catcher.
I would imagine that a cold pitot tube would be even better.
>> But I don't get the fascination with a heated pitot tube in an RV if
one is
>> going to have an IFR GPS on board. At altitude, if you lose your pitot
>> intput from ice, your GPS will be plenty accurate to keep you safe. I'd
>> worry more about ice on wings and prop and get myself out of there as
>> quickly as possible. If you're blind and at altitude and neither you nor
>> your FAA weather helpers can find some clear air for you to head for, then
>> as far as I'm concerned, that's a flight you should have made in a fully
>> booted aircraft anyway.
>> For landing, using GPS airspeed and your usual power and flap settings
for
>> putting the wheels on the runway will get you down albeit a little fast
if
>> you want to be on the safe side. If you get to 100 feet off the ground
on
>> approach and can't see the ground during your actual landing, you got a
lot
>> more problems than an AWOL pitot tube.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | PVC-tube in the wings? |
Hi builders!
Thanks for the inputs on the flap hinge! I'll go for the split-pin metod then!
Another one:
I'm thinking towards intstalling wires in the wings also, and saw a builder on
the net who'd installed a small PVC-tube in the wings.
It made room for several wires (landing light, posn light, antenna etc)
Anyone else have done this?
It seems to me like a good idea??
Specially if I also put a light line in there so I can replace or add thing later.
Thoughts anyone??
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | PVC-tube in the wings? |
Hi Alf,
I did this on mine. I used lawn irrigatoin tubing, which is very light, is
thin walled and should last a long time. It was cheap too. The other thing
to look out for is that the OD matches a hole cutter size you have. The
irrigation tubing was exactly 3/4" OD. I'm not sure how that will work out
for you in Norway though, everything being metric there, and I'm not so sure
about the availability of such tubing there either. Here, it's readily
available at any hardware store. See it at www.4sierratango.com/wings2.htm
Regards,
Mark
RV-7 Finishing & Firewall FWD.
www.4sierratango.com
>From: Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no>
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV7-List: PVC-tube in the wings?
>Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 15:06:14 +0100 (CET)
>
>Hi builders!
>
>Thanks for the inputs on the flap hinge! I'll go for the split-pin metod
>then!
>
>Another one:
>I'm thinking towards intstalling wires in the wings also, and saw a builder
>on the net who'd installed a small PVC-tube in the wings.
>It made room for several wires (landing light, posn light, antenna etc)
>
>Anyone else have done this?
>It seems to me like a good idea??
>Specially if I also put a light line in there so I can replace or add thing
>later.
>
>Thoughts anyone??
>
>Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Leadweights too light? |
Hi!
Thanks for the inputs regarding PVC-tube in the wings!
We're done with the empennage now and both elevators are AFT heavy.
On the right one, we adjusted it per plans, but we had to bolt the removed leadpiece
back onto the counterweight to get the elevator closer to neutral.
On the left one, we didn't do anything to the counterweight.
I guess we can solve the problem by adding lead in the forward part of the fiberglass
tips before installing them.
Have anyone else encountered this?
The only reason I can think of is that we maybe put too much tanksealer in the
aft part of the stiffners?? (But I don't think we overdid it....)
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim too sesitive? |
Hi!
I've heard some rumours that the electric elevator trim is very sensitive?
A way to solve it is to slow down the trim motor maybe?
We've installed the combined trimtab-horn on my left elevator, the one that followed
with the emp kit. (The one that can be used both for manual and elec trim.
One just trim off the part one's not using)
My plan is to fly a few rides with the trim rod attached to both the attachment
points in turn and THEN trim off the one I like the least.
What does all of you aviators with flying RV's think? Is the trim too sensitive?
Best regards Alf Olav Frog
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Leadweights too light? |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Yeah I got the same thing. Not sure how much of an issue a slightly aft
heavy elavator is and I was going to paint it first and see if I can add
lead afterwards...Haven't thought how to do this though.
Frank
RV7a Final engine connections and then PAINT!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alf Olav Frog
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:44 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Leadweights too light?
Hi!
Thanks for the inputs regarding PVC-tube in the wings!
We're done with the empennage now and both elevators are AFT heavy.
On the right one, we adjusted it per plans, but we had to bolt the
removed leadpiece back onto the counterweight to get the elevator closer
to neutral.
On the left one, we didn't do anything to the counterweight.
I guess we can solve the problem by adding lead in the forward part of
the fiberglass tips before installing them.
Have anyone else encountered this?
The only reason I can think of is that we maybe put too much tanksealer
in the aft part of the stiffners?? (But I don't think we overdid it....)
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim too sesitive? |
Using the tab for the manual trim isn't going to resolve a potentially fast
running trim motor. The matronic governor will. Theses governors can also be
used if you wish to operate two seperate bottons for the electric trim, as
in one on each stick for example. The governor is ground adjustable by means
of a screw. It is not recommended to do this in flight.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alf Olav Frog" <alfolavf(at)online.no>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim too sesitive?
> Hi!
>
> I've heard some rumours that the electric elevator trim is very sensitive?
>
> A way to solve it is to slow down the trim motor maybe?
>
> We've installed the combined trimtab-horn on my left elevator, the one
> that followed with the emp kit. (The one that can be used both for manual
> and elec trim. One just trim off the part one's not using)
>
> My plan is to fly a few rides with the trim rod attached to both the
> attachment points in turn and THEN trim off the one I like the least.
>
> What does all of you aviators with flying RV's think? Is the trim too
> sensitive?
>
> Best regards Alf Olav Frog
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim too sesitive? |
imho: Much ado about nothing. The problem is not the trim, it's the pilot.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alf Olav Frog" <alfolavf(at)online.no>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim too sesitive?
> Hi!
>
> I've heard some rumours that the electric elevator trim is very sensitive?
>
> A way to solve it is to slow down the trim motor maybe?
>
> We've installed the combined trimtab-horn on my left elevator, the one
> that followed with the emp kit. (The one that can be used both for manual
> and elec trim. One just trim off the part one's not using)
>
> My plan is to fly a few rides with the trim rod attached to both the
> attachment points in turn and THEN trim off the one I like the least.
>
> What does all of you aviators with flying RV's think? Is the trim too
> sensitive?
>
> Best regards Alf Olav Frog
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leadweights too light? |
Make sure you've got the elevator rigged in final position before coming to
this conclusion. Maybe you did that already. But the point is -- if you
pull the elevator in closer to the HS, the weight distribution changes
relative to the hinge point.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 11:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Leadweights too light?
>
>
> Yeah I got the same thing. Not sure how much of an issue a slightly aft
> heavy elavator is and I was going to paint it first and see if I can add
> lead afterwards...Haven't thought how to do this though.
>
> Frank
> RV7a Final engine connections and then PAINT!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alf Olav Frog
> Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:44 AM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Leadweights too light?
>
> Hi!
>
> Thanks for the inputs regarding PVC-tube in the wings!
>
> We're done with the empennage now and both elevators are AFT heavy.
>
> On the right one, we adjusted it per plans, but we had to bolt the
> removed leadpiece back onto the counterweight to get the elevator closer
> to neutral.
>
> On the left one, we didn't do anything to the counterweight.
>
> I guess we can solve the problem by adding lead in the forward part of
> the fiberglass tips before installing them.
>
> Have anyone else encountered this?
>
> The only reason I can think of is that we maybe put too much tanksealer
> in the aft part of the stiffners?? (But I don't think we overdid it....)
>
> Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim too sesitive? |
Use the hole called out for the electric trim. I don't use a gov. on
mine and it it just fine.
Cheers
Norman
Alf Olav Frog wrote:
>Hi!
>
>I've heard some rumours that the electric elevator trim is very sensitive?
>
>A way to solve it is to slow down the trim motor maybe?
>
>We've installed the combined trimtab-horn on my left elevator, the one that followed
with the emp kit. (The one that can be used both for manual and elec trim.
One just trim off the part one's not using)
>
>My plan is to fly a few rides with the trim rod attached to both the attachment
points in turn and THEN trim off the one I like the least.
>
>What does all of you aviators with flying RV's think? Is the trim too sensitive?
>
>Best regards Alf Olav Frog
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim too sesitive? |
I think the issue is too sensitive at what airspeed? Some have said it's
too slow with the flaps out (low airspeed) and too fast/sensitive at cruise.
Rocket Boy products and Matronics both make two speed relays to allow you to
cover both ends of the spectrum. High speed when flaps are deployed and
lower speed at cruise. They also cover, Pilot Co-Pilot override and runaway
trim issues.
http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/tcm.html
Bill S
7a Wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alf Olav Frog
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 12:56 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim too sesitive?
Hi!
I've heard some rumours that the electric elevator trim is very sensitive?
A way to solve it is to slow down the trim motor maybe?
We've installed the combined trimtab-horn on my left elevator, the one that
followed with the emp kit. (The one that can be used both for manual and
elec trim. One just trim off the part one's not using)
My plan is to fly a few rides with the trim rod attached to both the
attachment points in turn and THEN trim off the one I like the least.
What does all of you aviators with flying RV's think? Is the trim too
sensitive?
Best regards Alf Olav Frog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim too sesitive? |
Just build your plane and forget whether it will be too slow or to fast.
Fly it first and then decided for yourself.after you have a few hours on it.
Cheers
Norman
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>
>I think the issue is too sensitive at what airspeed? Some have said it's
>too slow with the flaps out (low airspeed) and too fast/sensitive at cruise.
>Rocket Boy products and Matronics both make two speed relays to allow you to
>cover both ends of the spectrum. High speed when flaps are deployed and
>lower speed at cruise. They also cover, Pilot Co-Pilot override and runaway
>trim issues.
>
>http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/tcm.html
>
>
>Bill S
>7a Wiring
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alf Olav Frog
>Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 12:56 PM
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim too sesitive?
>
>Hi!
>
>I've heard some rumours that the electric elevator trim is very sensitive?
>
>A way to solve it is to slow down the trim motor maybe?
>
>We've installed the combined trimtab-horn on my left elevator, the one that
>followed with the emp kit. (The one that can be used both for manual and
>elec trim. One just trim off the part one's not using)
>
>My plan is to fly a few rides with the trim rod attached to both the
>attachment points in turn and THEN trim off the one I like the least.
>
>What does all of you aviators with flying RV's think? Is the trim too
>sensitive?
>
>Best regards Alf Olav Frog
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deb and Bernard Weiss" <weissmntc(at)earthlink.net> |
Dan,
I am getting ready to start my panel design and I am hearing conflicting
reports about the grand rapids EFIS. Do you know of people who are flying
this system, could you forward me their names so that I could get their
opinions. The alternative is Chelton, but I think that is just tooooo
expensive for an RV7. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Schaefer <dwschaefer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS question |
I've been flying three screens for over a year and have owned the units
almost 18 months. Please email me off-line for any information you might
want.
Regards,
On 2/13/06, Deb and Bernard Weiss wrote:
>
> weissmntc(at)earthlink.net>
>
> Dan,
> I am getting ready to start my panel design and I am hearing conflicting
> reports about the grand rapids EFIS. Do you know of people who are flying
> this system, could you forward me their names so that I could get their
> opinions. The alternative is Chelton, but I think that is just tooooo
> expensive for an RV7. Thanks
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
--
David Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Geek One"
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
David,
Could you CC your comments/advice to me as well please? I'm going GRT as I
think it suits me better than the others.
Bevan
RV7A
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Schaefer
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: EFIS question
I've been flying three screens for over a year and have owned the units
almost 18 months. Please email me off-line for any information you might
want.
Regards,
On 2/13/06, Deb and Bernard Weiss wrote:
weissmntc(at)earthlink.net>
Dan,
I am getting ready to start my panel design and I am hearing conflicting
reports about the grand rapids EFIS. Do you know of people who are flying
this system, could you forward me their names so that I could get their
opinions. The alternative is Chelton, but I think that is just tooooo
expensive for an RV7. Thanks
========================= - The RV7-List Email Forum - h more:
==================================================sp; - List Contribution
Web Site - bsp;
&nhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
o=======================================
--
David Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Geek One"
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt HQ AU/XPRR <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
Gentlemen -
I have a Matco PV-1 Parking Brake Valve from Van's that I have decided not
to use.
New, in the box, never been mounted.
$110 delivered.
Neal (at) appaero (dot) com
Neal (dot) george (at) Maxwell (do) af (dot) mil
244 Andrews Street
Maxwell AFB, AL 36113
Home - 334-262-8993
Cell - 334-546-2033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
I got the idea to use PVC from other builders. It's easy to push wires
through PVC.
Here's where I cut the hole.
http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=spars
<http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=spars&id=DSC04746>
&id=DSC04746
The location works out great as it will put the PVC just below the aft edge
of the wing access panels. The access panel is not obstructed, and the
conduit is right there to pluck wires from for pitot or autopilot.
Here's a shot of the PVC in the wing.
http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rightwing
<http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rightwing&id=DSC04843
> &id=DSC04843
other notes:
- I put the conduit in place before riveting the skins and it posed no added
measure of difficulty while riveting.
- I put some blue RTV at all the PVC+Rib intersections to avoid any
potential vibration or movement issues.
----------------------------------------
Date: Feb 12, 2006
From: Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no>
Subject: PVC-tube in the wings?
Hi builders!
Thanks for the inputs on the flap hinge! I'll go for the split-pin
metod then!
Another one:
I'm thinking towards intstalling wires in the wings also, and saw a
builder on
the net who'd installed a small PVC-tube in the wings.
It made room for several wires (landing light, posn light, antenna
etc)
Anyone else have done this?
It seems to me like a good idea??
Specially if I also put a light line in there so I can replace or add
thing later.
Thoughts anyone??
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 empennage
http:\\donka.net\rv7project.html <http://donka.net/rv7project.html>
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Leadweights too light? |
I too found the lead weight to be too light after installing the pitch
trim servo. To correct, I clamped a piece of sheet metal around the
weight as a form and used a small propane torch to get the center of the
weight molten to within about a 1/4" of the edge, then added lead using
large fishing weights. The weight is just a little heavier than
necessary and will trim as required after painting. Attached are three
pictures comparing the "as is" right elevator weight to the modified
right elevator weight.
Have a great day,
Bill
RV-7 finish
Lee's Summit, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alf Olav Frog
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 12:44 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Leadweights too light?
Hi!
Thanks for the inputs regarding PVC-tube in the wings!
We're done with the empennage now and both elevators are AFT heavy.
On the right one, we adjusted it per plans, but we had to bolt the
removed leadpiece back onto the counterweight to get the elevator closer
to neutral.
On the left one, we didn't do anything to the counterweight.
I guess we can solve the problem by adding lead in the forward part of
the fiberglass tips before installing them.
Have anyone else encountered this?
The only reason I can think of is that we maybe put too much tanksealer
in the aft part of the stiffners?? (But I don't think we overdid it....)
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS question |
David,
Please copy me too. I'm just about ready to order avionics and I was
leaning towards GRT.
Thanks,
Greg
>From: David Schaefer <dwschaefer(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: EFIS question
>Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 21:57:17 -0600
>
>I've been flying three screens for over a year and have owned the units
>almost 18 months. Please email me off-line for any information you might
>want.
>
>Regards,
>
>
>On 2/13/06, Deb and Bernard Weiss wrote:
> >
> > weissmntc(at)earthlink.net>
> >
> > Dan,
> > I am getting ready to start my panel design and I am hearing conflicting
> > reports about the grand rapids EFIS. Do you know of people who are
>flying
> > this system, could you forward me their names so that I could get their
> > opinions. The alternative is Chelton, but I think that is just tooooo
> > expensive for an RV7. Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>=====================================
>=====================================
>=====================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>--
>David Schaefer
>RV-6A N142DS "Geek One"
>www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
On the Rudder, does the 913 counter balance skin go over or under the 901 rudder
skin. The plan makes it hard to tell. It would seem logical to have it over
so the join running is with the air flow - I am just not sure.
Paul Walter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davcor(at)comcast.net |
Paul,
look closely at drawing 7 grid f/g | 5/4 dashed lines are hidden. Not that over
looked this or anything...
squeeze 'em too don't buck...
Dave
RV7 - N898DC (rsvd)
emp done, wings done finally, fuse firewall... de-burring and dimpling and countersinking
when you get to your tanks, find (on ebay) an Orndorf video showing the tank build
process (RV6 works), realize the stories aren't as bad... dive in. Don't forget
to visit rvproject.com
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
On the Rudder, does the 913 counter balance skin go over or under the 901 rudder
skin. The plan makes it hard to tell. It would seem logical to have it over
so the join running is with the air flow - I am just not sure.
Paul Walter
Paul,
look closely at drawing 7 grid f/g | 5/4 dashed lines are hidden. Not that over
looked this or anything...
squeeze 'em too don't buck...
Dave
RV7 - N898DC (rsvd)
emp done, wings done finally, fuse firewall... de-burring and dimpling and countersinking
when you get to your tanks, find (on ebay) an Orndorf video showing the tank build
process (RV6 works), realize the stories aren't as bad... dive in. Don't forget
tovisit rvproject.com
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Paul Walter" pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au
On the Rudder, does the 913 counter balance skin go over or under the 901 rudder
skin. The plan makes it hard to tell. It would seem logical to have it over
so the join running is with the air flow - I am just not sure.
Paul Walter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leadweights too light? |
hi,
if you don't trim the weights, the two combined are heavy enough to
compensate for trim motor and paint.
marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Leadweights too light?
>I too found the lead weight to be too light after installing the pitch
> trim servo. To correct, I clamped a piece of sheet metal around the
> weight as a form and used a small propane torch to get the center of the
> weight molten to within about a 1/4" of the edge, then added lead using
> large fishing weights. The weight is just a little heavier than
> necessary and will trim as required after painting. Attached are three
> pictures comparing the "as is" right elevator weight to the modified
> right elevator weight.
>
> Have a great day,
>
> Bill
> RV-7 finish
> Lee's Summit, MO
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alf Olav Frog
> Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 12:44 PM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Leadweights too light?
>
> Hi!
>
> Thanks for the inputs regarding PVC-tube in the wings!
>
> We're done with the empennage now and both elevators are AFT heavy.
>
> On the right one, we adjusted it per plans, but we had to bolt the
> removed leadpiece back onto the counterweight to get the elevator closer
> to neutral.
>
> On the left one, we didn't do anything to the counterweight.
>
> I guess we can solve the problem by adding lead in the forward part of
> the fiberglass tips before installing them.
>
> Have anyone else encountered this?
>
> The only reason I can think of is that we maybe put too much tanksealer
> in the aft part of the stiffners?? (But I don't think we overdid it....)
>
> Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
I had the same question.the plans are correct. If memory serves me
correctly, the dashed line has the skin edge into the wind.
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:54 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Rudder
On the Rudder, does the 913 counter balance skin go over or under the 901
rudder skin. The plan makes it hard to tell. It would seem logical to have
it over so the join running is with the air flow - I am just not sure.
Paul Walter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net> |
Paul,
If you look in the archives there was a discussion on this about a year ago.
John Brunke
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R. Shook
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 12:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Rudder
I had the same question.the plans are correct. If memory serves me correctly,
the dashed line has the skin edge into the wind.
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:54 PM
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: Rudder
On the Rudder, does the 913 counter balance skin go over or under the 901 rudder
skin. The plan makes it hard to tell. It would seem logical to have it over
so the join running is with the air flow - I am just not sure.
Paul Walter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
When setting the trailing double flush joint on the rudder I have noticed that
the AEX wedge impedes when fitting the top fibre glass tip. If it were to cut
1/2 inch shorter the tip would slide neatly on top of AEX. What have others done
cut a section out of AEX wedge or simply cut a section from the fibre glass
fairing tip ?
Thank you
Paul Walter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg C <mk325ef(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Paul,
The counterbalance skin goes over the left and right skins. I edge rolled the
counterbalance skin to put a slight angle on it so it sits nicely flat on all
edges against the skins.
Greg
"J. Brunke" wrote:
v\:* { BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML) } o\:* { BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML)
} w\:* { BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML) } .shape { BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML)
} st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Paul,
If you look in the archives there was a discussion on this about a year ago.
John Brunke
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R. Shook
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 12:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Rudder
I had the same questionthe plans are correct. If memory serves me correctly,
the dashed line has the skin edge into the wind.
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:54 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Rudder
On the Rudder, does the 913 counter balance skin go over or under the 901 rudder
skin. The plan makes it hard to tell. It would seem logical to have it over
so the join running is with the air flow - I am just not sure.
Paul Walter
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
Hooboy, I hope it works for you, because I think you
are incorrect in putting the counterbalance skin on
top. The plans show two areas each side that require
you to taper the edges of the CB skin, not unlike
honing a razor blade. This provides a gentle ramp for
the rudder skins to lay onto, reducing any possibility
of kinking the skin near the joint of the CB and
rudder skin. Reference Drawing 7, section G 10, and G
5
--- Greg C wrote:
> Hi Paul,
>
> The counterbalance skin goes over the left and
> right skins. I edge rolled the counterbalance skin
> to put a slight angle on it so it sits nicely flat
> on all edges against the skins.
>
> Greg
>
> "J. Brunke" wrote:
> v\:* { BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML) } o\:*
> { BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML) } w\:* {
> BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML) } .shape { BEHAVIOR:
> url(#default#VML) }
> st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }
> Paul,
>
> If you look in the archives there was a discussion
> on this about a year ago.
>
> John Brunke
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott R. Shook
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 12:28 PM
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Rudder
>
>
> I had the same questionthe plans are correct.
> If memory serves me correctly, the dashed line has
> the skin edge into the wind.
>
> ---------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Paul Walter
> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:54 PM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Rudder
>
>
> On the Rudder, does the 913 counter balance skin
> go over or under the 901 rudder skin. The plan makes
> it hard to tell. It would seem logical to have it
> over so the join running is with the air flow - I am
> just not sure.
>
>
>
> Paul Walter
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying
attachments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <k9hxt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Does anyone know who makes a tow bar for the RV-7A ?? I bought one about 5 years
ago for a RV-6A but don't remember who the guy was? It was real simple and worked
fine etc. Had a spring loaded pin that secured it into the socket heads
of the screws that hold on the nose wheel pant.
Larry, RV-7A about ready to fly!!
"LIMA TANGO SENDS"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | New landing light for the RV-7 and -8 |
HI!
I just saw that Vans has a new landing light system in their online-store.
It's designed for installation in the wing tips (2 in each), gives a total of 300W
(4 x 75W)
It can only be installed in the new wingtips with the straight TE. (W-715-1)
Has anyone experience with this product?
Is it better than the Duckworks 100W for example? Easy to install?
It appeals to me that I don't have to cut in the nice LE of my QB-wings... and
more light ofcourse.
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tyler Bryant <tylerii(at)infoave.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New landing light for the RV-7 and -8 |
Ordered these, and when they came in I hooked them up to measure "in
rush current" as I noticed that they are the high wattage minature
halogen. In rush current was greater than 20 amps for about 8 seconds
until they came up to full bright. I then measured the in rush current
for the Duckworth and found that the current barely exceeded 10 amps for
less than a second. Also the heat generation in the confined space in
the wing tip and the fact that the composite laminate of the wing tip
was barely adequate for the loads, I felt that I should just go with the
Duck lights in the wings. Sent the other lights back.
That's just my opinion
Tyler RV7A N442MN
Alf Olav Frog wrote:
>HI!
>
>I just saw that Vans has a new landing light system in their online-store.
>It's designed for installation in the wing tips (2 in each), gives a total of
300W (4 x 75W)
>
>It can only be installed in the new wingtips with the straight TE. (W-715-1)
>
>Has anyone experience with this product?
>Is it better than the Duckworks 100W for example? Easy to install?
>It appeals to me that I don't have to cut in the nice LE of my QB-wings... and
more light ofcourse.
>
>Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net> |
Larry,
I did some searching and finally ordered a Bogert towbar from ACS (their #
13-01811 for $74.00). Short story was it didn't work properly so I called
Richard Bogert, the owner, and he sent me modified parts at no charge which
solved the problem after I re-drilled the pivot hole to fit my wheel pant.
I also clamped on a simple stop per his suggestion to hold the bar in closed
position so it won't pop off when steering the nosewheel. I think he may be
adding a stop/latch in the future. If he does, it will be one trick unit.
Lightweight, good quality, and collapsible for stowing in the baggage
compartment. I would give him a call. He is super nice. info@bogert-av.com
or 509-736-1513.
Regards,
Scott Diffenbaugh
RV-7A N814SD FAA inspection today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Munz" <182ppl(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New landing light for the RV-7 and -8 |
I do not have any experience with the product that Vans sells but the
Creativair.com landing lights look very similar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alf Olav Frog" <alfolavf(at)online.no>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 2:54 AM
Subject: RV7-List: New landing light for the RV-7 and -8
> HI!
>
> I just saw that Vans has a new landing light system in their online-store.
> It's designed for installation in the wing tips (2 in each), gives a total
> of 300W (4 x 75W)
>
> It can only be installed in the new wingtips with the straight TE.
> (W-715-1)
>
> Has anyone experience with this product?
> Is it better than the Duckworks 100W for example? Easy to install?
> It appeals to me that I don't have to cut in the nice LE of my QB-wings...
> and more light ofcourse.
>
> Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
cc: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Dave is correct... the rudder skin goes OVER the counterbalance skin.
This has been brought up several times in several places, all with the
same conclusion... the dashed lines on the plans indicate the rudder
skin is on top of counterbalance skin.
If you do as Dave says and taper the counterbalance skin, as the plans
indicate, you will be surprised at how flat the rudder skin sits on top
of the counterbalance.
But hey, don't take our word for it... call Van's if you need
verification.
Good luck!
Brad Oliver
RV-7 Livermore, CA
www.rv7factory.com
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Rudder
> From: Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com>
> Date: Wed, February 15, 2006 8:07 pm
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Hooboy, I hope it works for you, because I think you
> are incorrect in putting the counterbalance skin on
> top. The plans show two areas each side that require
> you to taper the edges of the CB skin, not unlike
> honing a razor blade. This provides a gentle ramp for
> the rudder skins to lay onto, reducing any possibility
> of kinking the skin near the joint of the CB and
> rudder skin. Reference Drawing 7, section G 10, and G
> 5
>
> --- Greg C wrote:
>
> > Hi Paul,
> >
> > The counterbalance skin goes over the left and
> > right skins. I edge rolled the counterbalance skin
> > to put a slight angle on it so it sits nicely flat
> > on all edges against the skins.
> >
> > Greg
> >
> > "J. Brunke" wrote:
> > v\:* { BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML) } o\:*
> > { BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML) } w\:* {
> > BEHAVIOR: url(#default#VML) } .shape { BEHAVIOR:
> > url(#default#VML) }
> > st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }
> > Paul,
> >
> > If you look in the archives there was a discussion
> > on this about a year ago.
> >
> > John Brunke
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Scott R. Shook
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 12:28 PM
> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Rudder
> >
> >
> > I had the same questionthe plans are correct.
> > If memory serves me correctly, the dashed line has
> > the skin edge into the wind.
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Paul Walter
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:54 PM
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV7-List: Rudder
> >
> >
> > On the Rudder, does the 913 counter balance skin
> > go over or under the 901 rudder skin. The plan makes
> > it hard to tell. It would seem logical to have it
> > over so the join running is with the air flow - I am
> > just not sure.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul Walter
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Use Photomail to share photos without annoying
> attachments.
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | New landing light for the RV-7 and -8 |
A friend has wing tip landing lights. They don't really light up front and
center all that well because the notched tip introduces its own obstruction.
It's not unusable for that flaw, and they are nifty otherwise. I wanted to
be sure of plenty of forward light, so I went with duckworks HID in the
leading edge. Mine are only lighting up my shop at this point...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alf Olav Frog
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 6:09 AM
Subject: RV7-List: New landing light for the RV-7 and -8
HI!
I just saw that Vans has a new landing light system in their online-store.
It's designed for installation in the wing tips (2 in each), gives a total
of 300W (4 x 75W)
It can only be installed in the new wingtips with the straight TE. (W-715-1)
Has anyone experience with this product?
Is it better than the Duckworks 100W for example? Easy to install?
It appeals to me that I don't have to cut in the nice LE of my QB-wings...
and more light ofcourse.
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New landing light for the RV-7 and -8 |
Just a point about the amount of light that projects with the Duckworks LE
lights. I have found that they work just fine at lighting the runway and
taxi way for my tailwheeler. I adjusted the lights so they shine down as
much as possible with the provided kit. The lack of watts is not a problem.
Indiana Larry, RV7 SunSeeker 85+ hours flying
"Please use the information and opinions I express with responsibility, and
at your own risk."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 11:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: New landing light for the RV-7 and -8
>
> A friend has wing tip landing lights. They don't really light up front
> and
> center all that well because the notched tip introduces its own
> obstruction.
> It's not unusable for that flaw, and they are nifty otherwise. I wanted
> to
> be sure of plenty of forward light, so I went with duckworks HID in the
> leading edge. Mine are only lighting up my shop at this point...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy(at)navy.mil> |
Cleveland Tool Co. sells a tow bar made specifically for tri-gear RVs for about
$50. You can order it online from their catalog. It also collapses for easy
storage in the baggage compartment. I have two of them... one for the hangar
and one kept in the plane.
They work perfectly!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 140 hrs
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skykingjfg(at)aol.com |
I'm trying to install the FAB on my 7A. I have an XP 360 Carburetor engine.
There doesn't seem to be enough clearance between the air box and the landing
gear leg. In fact, if I just hold the filter element against the bottom plate
there is only 1/2" gap between the element and the gear leg. This leg has got
to flex a little when landing. I concerned that it will flex and hit the
airbox. Anyone run into this and have a solution?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
Heat it up with a heat gun a press into it with a pipe. It'll form a "dent" (intentionally)
that will provide clearance. I don't have a nosedragger, but that's
what I'd try first.
If that doesn't work, chop a hole into it where the nosegear leg interferes, and
re-glass it so it won't! Get out the tools and make it work!!!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Skykingjfg(at)aol.com
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 7:22 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Filter Air Box
I'm trying to install the FAB on my 7A. I have an XP 360 Carburetor engine. There
doesn't seem to be enough clearance between the air box and the landing gear
leg. In fact, if I just hold the filter element against the bottom plate there
is only 1/2" gap between the element and the gear leg. This leg has got to
flex a little when landing. I concerned that it will flex and hit the airbox.
Anyone run into this and have a solution?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Defroster-system? |
Hi all!
Thanks for the inputs on the new wing tip landing lights! I'll go for the LE landing
lights then.
I've another one for you:
In addition to the cabin heat, I also need a way to send warm air to the windshield,
in other words a defrost system.
I was thinking that maybe I could mount an "Y" coupling on the hose supplying cabin
heat and route warm air from the "Y" intersection to the windshield, if I
cut out some long slots in the area just below the windshield. (almost like a
car)
How has other builders living in cold areas solved this?
While I'm at it:
I saw that there's some "hatches" for extra fresh air that can be installed in
the forward portion of the fuselage which can be used on warm days.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Is the fresh air intakes which comes with the kit inadequate?
Here I'm asking RV-operaters who's flying in weather conditions like Norway: summer
temps mostly around 20-25 degrees celcius (approx 65-75 fahrenheit)
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Defroster-system? |
I used a small computer type fan mounted to the louvered cabin heat panel.
Not flying yet so I don't know how well it will work. I used round aluminum
flanges at both ends of the SCAT duct.
See: http://users.aol.com/n67bt/defrostfan.htm
Bob Trumpfheller
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shaun Smith <shaun-s(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Defroster-system? |
i wish to opt out
N67BT@aol.com wrote: I used a small computer type fan mounted to the louvered cabin heat panel. Not flying yet so I don't know how well it will work. I used round aluminum flanges at both ends of the SCAT duct. See: http://users.aol.com/n67bt/defrostfan.htm
Bob Trumpfheller
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Defroster-system? |
I live in Canada and have no problems with heat or need for a defroster.
The coldest that I have flown in has only been -23c.
Cheers
Norman
Shaun Smith wrote:
> i wish to opt out
>
> */N67BT(at)aol.com/* wrote:
>
> I used a small computer type fan mounted to the louvered cabin
> heat panel. Not flying yet so I don't know how well it will
> work. I used round aluminum flanges at both ends of the SCAT
> duct.
>
> See: http://users.aol.com/n67bt/defrostfan.htm
>
> Bob Trumpfheller
>
> < In addition to the cabin heat, I also need a way to send warm
> air to the windshield, in other words a defrost system.
>
> I was thinking that maybe I could mount an "Y" coupling on the
> hose supplying cabin heat and route warm air from the "Y"
> intersection to the windshield, if I cut out some long slots
> in the area just below the windshield. (almost like a car)
>
> How has other builders living in cold areas solved this?>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Extra fueltanks? |
Hi!
I just heard that there's a company who's making extra fueltanks for the RV-7 and
-8.
I thinks it's a kind of "tubes" which is installed along the main spar in each
wing, giving approx 10-12 gls extra fuel total.
I thinks it's a complete kit ready to install.
Anyone heard about this or know a web adr where I can find some more info?
Or better still: have any experience with installation and/or use?
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Extra fueltanks? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
http://www.safeair1.com/HWA/HWA_top.htm
g
>
>
>
> Hi!
>
> I just heard that there's a company who's making extra
> fueltanks for the RV-7 and -8.
> I thinks it's a kind of "tubes" which is installed along the
> main spar in each wing, giving approx 10-12 gls extra fuel total.
>
> I thinks it's a complete kit ready to install.
>
> Anyone heard about this or know a web adr where I can find some
> more info?
> Or better still: have any experience with installation and/or use?
>
> Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Glare Shield Coating |
Hi All,
I'm looking for recomendations for covering the top of the glare shield on
my RV-7A slider. I'm looking for something that will keep reflections on
the windscreen to a minimum. I've heard of using textured black vinyl, but
I'm leaning more towards flat black paint to keep weight down. Probably a
PPG product since it matches the primer I have and it's what I used on my
interior. Any recommendations on what worked (or didn't work) for you would
be much appreciated.
Greg
Raleigh, NC
RV-7A Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare Shield Coating |
I have used flat black paint in a rattle can in all the planes that I
have built and it works just fine. Paint the deck before installing the
plexi, it's a whole lot easier.
Cheers
Norman
Greg Vouga wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm looking for recomendations for covering the top of the glare
> shield on my RV-7A slider. I'm looking for something that will keep
> reflections on the windscreen to a minimum. I've heard of using
> textured black vinyl, but I'm leaning more towards flat black paint to
> keep weight down. Probably a PPG product since it matches the primer I
> have and it's what I used on my interior. Any recommendations on what
> worked (or didn't work) for you would be much appreciated.
>
> Greg
> Raleigh, NC
> RV-7A Canopy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Imken" <skikrazi(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Glare Shield Coating |
I agree with Norman.
Cheers,
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman Younie
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Glare Shield Coating
I have used flat black paint in a rattle can in all the planes that I
have built and it works just fine. Paint the deck before installing the
plexi, it's a whole lot easier.
Cheers
Norman
Greg Vouga wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm looking for recomendations for covering the top of the glare
> shield on my RV-7A slider. I'm looking for something that will keep
> reflections on the windscreen to a minimum. I've heard of using
> textured black vinyl, but I'm leaning more towards flat black paint to
> keep weight down. Probably a PPG product since it matches the primer I
> have and it's what I used on my interior. Any recommendations on what
> worked (or didn't work) for you would be much appreciated.
>
> Greg
> Raleigh, NC
> RV-7A Canopy
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra fueltanks? |
http://www.safeair1.com/HWA/HWA_top.htm
--- Alf Olav Frog wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi!
>
> I just heard that there's a company who's making
> extra fueltanks for the RV-7 and -8.
> I thinks it's a kind of "tubes" which is installed
> along the main spar in each wing, giving approx
> 10-12 gls extra fuel total.
>
> I thinks it's a complete kit ready to install.
>
> Anyone heard about this or know a web adr where I
> can find some more info?
> Or better still: have any experience with
> installation and/or use?
>
> Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Dangerous ER fuel tanks? |
Hi!
Thank you builders for the web adr to the Safe Air1 company who sells ER-fueltanks
for RV's. Those tanks looked GREAT!
However; I got an interesting thought from a builder who wrote that these tanks
were potentially dangerous.
He said that during spin, the fuel would be sloshed to the outboard end of the
fueltank thus making it difficult or impossible to revover from a spin.
OK; so intentionally spins in a RV with partially full ER-tanks isn't something
you would do, but some sunny day one maybe could get into an UN-intentionally
spin.... and THEN what??
Have anyone some info regarding this?
It would also be nice to hear from someone who has installed the ER-tanks! Was
it complicated etc
Not to mention if anyone has done spintesting with those tanks....
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous ER fuel tanks? |
Alf,
The ER tanks are not made for everyday flying. You have to be a serious cross
country RV driver to consider them anyway. Most of your flying time they will
be EMPTY. Has your friend performed test on these tanks to prove his theory?
;-)
Darrell
Alf Olav Frog wrote:
Hi!
Thank you builders for the web adr to the Safe Air1 company who sells ER-fueltanks
for RV's. Those tanks looked GREAT!
However; I got an interesting thought from a builder who wrote that these tanks
were potentially dangerous.
He said that during spin, the fuel would be sloshed to the outboard end of the
fueltank thus making it difficult or impossible to revover from a spin.
OK; so intentionally spins in a RV with partially full ER-tanks isn't something
you would do, but some sunny day one maybe could get into an UN-intentionally
spin.... and THEN what??
Have anyone some info regarding this?
It would also be nice to hear from someone who has installed the ER-tanks! Was
it complicated etc
Not to mention if anyone has done spintesting with those tanks....
Best regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Storer" <dstorer(at)okwifi.com> |
| Subject: | Mandatory Service Bulletin |
Did everyone see the fuel tank SB on Vans web site? Sure would make for a
bad day at the office.
Dan Storer
RV7A
Waiting finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Mandatory Service Bulletin |
Saw the SB, my only question would be how does one drill the nut and install
the safety wire? To drill the nut and install the wire that would interfere
with the threads would it not?
Considering I am working on the wings now.I would like to know.
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Storer
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Mandatory Service Bulletin
Did everyone see the fuel tank SB on Vans web site? Sure would make for a
bad day at the office.
Dan Storer
RV7A
Waiting finishing kit
<http://www.incredimail.com/index.asp?id=96767> Add FUN to your email -
CLICK HERE!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Mandatory Service Bulletin |
A properly torqued flare nut will not come loose. Lock it down and be done. There
are some good instructions on this Thread on the Vansairforce.net if you wish
to punish yourself.
Darrell
"Scott R. Shook" wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Saw the SB, my only
question would be how does one drill the nut and install the safety wire? To
drill the nut and install the wire that would interfere with the threads would
it not?
Considering I am working on the wings nowI would like to know.
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Storer
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Mandatory Service Bulletin
Did everyone see the fuel tank SB on Vans web site? Sure would make
for a bad day at the office.
Dan Storer
RV7A
Waiting finishing kit
---------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skyking135 <skyking135(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mandatory Service Bulletin |
Daniel Storer wrote:
> Did everyone see the fuel tank SB on Vans web site? Sure would make
> for a bad day at the office.
>
> Dan Storer
> RV7A
> Waiting finishing kit
>
>
>
>
> Add FUN to your email - CLICK HERE!
> <http://www.incredimail.com/index.asp?id=96767>
No. I just checked and didn't see a thing. What are you talking about?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Gawronski <six_rabbits(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE Dangerous ER fuel tanks |
The two-place Grumman American AA-1 uses its
full-length tubular main spar as the fuel tank.
Because of this, it is placarded against spins, and
has been involved in numerous spin accidents. NASA
has used it as a spin research plane (with a
spin-recovery chute mounted at the tail!)
My advice would be to avoid spins unless the ER
tanks
are empty. Or wear a parachute and be prepared to
use
it.
Brian Gawronski
RV-7A
Empennage #1, Rudder #2
> >However; I got an interesting thought from a
> builder
> >who wrote that these tanks
> >were potentially dangerous.
> >He said that during spin, the fuel would be sloshed
> to >the outboard end of the
> >fueltank thus making it difficult or impossible to
> >revover from a spin.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnCClarkVA(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE Dangerous ER fuel tanks |
I would not characterize ER tanks as dangerous. I would suggest that the
tanks, and many other factors, may adversly affect the spin characteristics of
your airplane. The spin characteristics of many airplanes are less than ideal,
some airplanes have spin or recovery characteristics that are not consistent
from one spin to the next. Slight modifications can significantly affect spin
charactistics. The problem is that most of us are ill-equipped and
ill-prepared to explore those characteristics.
If I wanted the tanks, I would put them on. The most likely place that I
would inadvertly stall and start a spin is in the pattern. It probably does not
make much difference if it takes 1/2 turn or 4 turns to recover. If I wanted
protection, an AOA/stall warning device would buy the most protection (now
don't pick on me about how we should be well trained pilots who whould never
stall or spin - those devices are on many (most) certified airplanes (from the
smallest to the largest) for a reason).
Take a look at an SAIB for Piper Cherokees. I would suggest that most of the
concepts apply to us, recognizing that each specific instruction may not
apply to any individual RV.
http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/alerts/saib/media/ACE-97-02.htm
Regards, John.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous ER fuel tanks? |
I think the ER tanks are very safe, and like any increase in system complication
the responsibility is on the pilot for proper operation and use.
As far as spins with weight at the extremities, such as full tanks in the wing
tip two comments:
On any given day I go fly I am 100% sure I can keep my plane from stalling and
thus entering a spin. If I had fuel in ER tanks, I would not do Acro, right?
(see my first paragraph.)
Last, any weight further from the CG of the plane WILL make spin RECOVERY more
difficult. Its like a bar bell with weight on the end. YES it may take more
to get the bar-bell started to twirl like a cheerleader baton, but once you get
it going, it will want to keep going, being hard to stop it spinning, so it
could be possible that IF you had fuel in the ER tanks, IF you forced the plane
to spin, you could compromise the ability of the aircraft to recover (ie not
enough rudder to over come the spin inertia).
This is called MOMENT of INERTIA. Needless to say don't spin with fuel in the
ER tanks and observe Van's arco weight and CG limits and use common sense (see
above paragraphs). The plane is not dangerous the pilot is. There are LOTS of
planes with wing tip fuel tanks certified by the FAA, but not certified to spin.
To claim that the ER tanks are dangerous is ridiculous. There are certified
planes who's spin recovery modes are NIL, even with out wing tip tanks. Most
light twins are not SAFE to spin nor are they approved, so they are also dangerous?
Not spinning is easy if you know how to fly a plane. Planes just don't
spin.
In fact a RV might spin and recover fine even with the ER tank fuel, but can't
say for sure, and no one else can say either, unless its flight tested; I am
not going to do it and will observe the obvious LIMITATION, "Don't spin with
fuel in ER tanks". To say they are dangerous with out some FACTS, is just silliness.
When I do Acro, I am toast after 20-30 minutes max, so I don't think I need extra
fuel to do acro. :-o hahahah.
Rant and rave over :-)
George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Mandatory Service Bulletin |
One of the catalog places ACS or Spruce has a jig for
drilling these holes.
Dave
--- "Scott R. Shook" wrote:
>
>
> Saw the SB, my only question would be how does one
> drill the nut and install
> the safety wire? To drill the nut and install the
> wire that would interfere
> with the threads would it not?
>
> Considering I am working on the wings now.I would
> like to know.
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Daniel Storer
> Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 4:53 PM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Mandatory Service Bulletin
>
>
>
>
> Did everyone see the fuel tank SB on Vans web site?
> Sure would make for a
> bad day at the office.
>
>
>
> Dan Storer
>
> RV7A
>
> Waiting finishing kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.incredimail.com/index.asp?id=96767> Add
> FUN to your email -
> CLICK HERE!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "llsbiii3(at)netzero.net" <llsbiii3(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 02/25/06 |
I believe the Grummans suffer from a small tail volume. When ventral and dorsal
fins are added the spin charastices improve.
Sherman Butler
From: Brian Gawronski <six_rabbits(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV7-List: RE Dangerous ER fuel tanks
The two-place Grumman American AA-1 uses its
full-length tubular main spar as the fuel tank.
Because of this, it is placarded against spins, and
has been involved in numerous spin accidents. NASA
has used it as a spin research plane (with a
spin-recovery chute mounted at the tail!)
> >were potentially dangerous.
> >He said that during spin, the fuel would be sloshed
> to >the outboard end of the
> >fueltank thus making it difficult or impossible to
> >revover from a spin.
>
I believe the Grummans suffer from a small tail volume. When ventral and dorsal
fins are added the spin charastices improve.
Sherman Butler
From: Brian Gawronski <A class=3Dm1 onclick=3D"top.checkNewBrowser('26?To=3Dsix_rabbits(at)yahoo.comcount=3D1140964291')"
#">six_rabbits(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV7-List: RE Dangerous ER fuel tanks
The two-place Grumman American AA-1 uses its
full-length tubular main spar as the fuel tank.
Because of this, it is placarded against spins, and
has been involved in numerous spin accidents. NASA
has used it as a spin research plane (with a
spin-recovery chute mounted at the tail!)
were potentially dangerous.
He said that during spin, the fuel would be sloshed
to the outboard end of the
fueltank thus making it difficult or impossible to
revover from a spin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RE Dangerous ER fuel tanks |
It is because of the TINY vertical stabilizer and rudder. Also the wing blankets
the tail. The fuel may have something to do with it, but that is only incidental
I believe. I did not read the report on the AA-1 many years ago, but I am
aware of it. George
From: Brian Gawronski <six_rabbits(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV7-List: RE Dangerous ER fuel tanks
The two-place Grumman American AA-1 uses its
full-length tubular main spar as the fuel tank.
Because of this, it is placarded against spins, and
has been involved in numerous spin accidents. NASA
has used it as a spin research plane (with a
spin-recovery chute mounted at the tail!)
My advice would be to avoid spins unless the ER
tanks are empty. Or wear a parachute and be prepared to
use it.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Defroster-system? |
> I've another one for you:
> In addition to the cabin heat, I also need a way to send warm air to the
> windshield, in other words a defrost system.
>
> I was thinking that maybe I could mount an "Y" coupling on the hose
> supplying cabin heat and route warm air from the "Y" intersection to the
> windshield, if I cut out some long slots in the area just below the
> windshield. (almost like a car)
>
> How has other builders living in cold areas solved this?
I regularly fly in cold temps with my RV-6. I have the dual muffin fan
defroster setup with no hot air feed. I run the fans at anything below 10C
0C and above - canopy and windshield stay relativly clear at all times.
0C to -10C - canopy will fog up during startup and taxi but fans keep the
windshield clear. Once in the air the rest of the canopy will quickly clear
and stay that way until on the ground
-10 to -20C - canopy and windshield will fog up during startup but usually
the fans will keep a small viewing area clear. I need to rub the frost off
the side windows to see adequately during taxi and takeoff. Once in the air
the canopy gradually clears.
-30C and below - the heating/defrost system has a hard time coping but with
cruise power the windshield will become mostly clear. The side windows
require constant manual clearing.
This is all with one person on board as I don't carry a lot of passengers in
winter.
One critical thing is not to overheat yourself and start sweating before
entering the cockpit. If I need to clear snow from the hangar or anything
physical, I'll cool down for awhile before getting in. I usually keep the
canopy cracked until the engine is running, then I open the air vents to
keep the air flowing until I'm ready for takeoff. You dont get any engine
heat at idle anyway.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
375 hours
Winnipeg, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Murillo" <bertrv6(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare Shield Coating |
On 2/23/06, Greg Vouga wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm looking for recomendations for covering the top of the glare shield on
> my RV-7A slider. I'm looking for something that will keep reflections on
> the windscreen to a minimum. I've heard of using textured black vinyl, but
> I'm leaning more towards flat black paint to keep weight down. Probably a
> PPG product since it matches the primer I have and it's what I used on my
> interior. Any recommendations on what worked (or didn't work) for you would
> be much appreciated.
>
> Greg
> Raleigh, NC
> RV-7A Canopy
>
Greg:
I just bought from a local fabric store, a piece of black, felt like
material.
Cutted to fit, and spray can of adhesive, to install..
looks nice, feels nice and no reflexion..
Some people use, black vinyl,, that is good too...
Much better than paint....
Bert
rv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare Shield Coating |
_*Don't use black vinyl!*_ The sun will heat it up and the vinyl esters
will come out of it and eventually cause your plexi glass to craze.
Paint it flat back. Cloth will hold a lot of dirt and dust and make more
work for you keeping it clean.
Cheers
Norman
Bert Murillo wrote:
>
>On 2/23/06, Greg Vouga wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>I'm looking for recomendations for covering the top of the glare shield on
>>my RV-7A slider. I'm looking for something that will keep reflections on
>>the windscreen to a minimum. I've heard of using textured black vinyl, but
>>I'm leaning more towards flat black paint to keep weight down. Probably a
>>PPG product since it matches the primer I have and it's what I used on my
>>interior. Any recommendations on what worked (or didn't work) for you would
>>be much appreciated.
>>
>>Greg
>>Raleigh, NC
>>RV-7A Canopy
>>
>>
>>
> Greg:
>
>I just bought from a local fabric store, a piece of black, felt like
>material.
>Cutted to fit, and spray can of adhesive, to install..
>looks nice, feels nice and no reflexion..
>
>Some people use, black vinyl,, that is good too...
>
>Much better than paint....
>
>Bert
>rv6a
>_________________________________________________________________
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mslev100(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | hot/cool air vent & painting question |
Two questions:
1. has anyone used the hot/cool air selector offered by Van's and, if so,
how well does it work and where are you getting the cool air from?
2. what are people using for a stand for painting wings and /or fuselage?
Thanks for any info.
Mary Beth
RV-7A - working on canopy for fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare Shield Coating |
Bert,
Have you had the felt stuff on for long? Felt seems like it would snag and
or nub up from sliding stuff on the dash. I tend to put things like my
headset or kneeboard on the dash at the beginning and end of the flight. Or
at least I do in rental planes. Have you had any troubles like this?
Greg
>From: "Bert Murillo" <bertrv6(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: Glare Shield Coating
>Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 08:35:51 -0600
>
>
>On 2/23/06, Greg Vouga wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I'm looking for recomendations for covering the top of the glare shield
>on
> > my RV-7A slider. I'm looking for something that will keep reflections
>on
> > the windscreen to a minimum. I've heard of using textured black vinyl,
>but
> > I'm leaning more towards flat black paint to keep weight down. Probably
>a
> > PPG product since it matches the primer I have and it's what I used on
>my
> > interior. Any recommendations on what worked (or didn't work) for you
>would
> > be much appreciated.
> >
> > Greg
> > Raleigh, NC
> > RV-7A Canopy
> >
> Greg:
>
>I just bought from a local fabric store, a piece of black, felt like
>material.
>Cutted to fit, and spray can of adhesive, to install..
>looks nice, feels nice and no reflexion..
>
>Some people use, black vinyl,, that is good too...
>
>Much better than paint....
>
>Bert
>rv6a
>_________________________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | fuel tank removal with pitot line in the way. |
This seems like it should be a common problem, so I'm curious to hear what
other have done.
I'm about to close up my left wing, and I'm testing just how difficult it
will be to remove the tank once the wing is closed. The access holes make
it possible, but it's certainly not an enjoyable task, even in the most
optimum circumstance of the wing still sitting in the wing stand.
Now on the left wing, the pitot line runs straight through the center of the
spar, about an +-inch aft from the center bolt on every tank attach bracket.
You can still get the bolt in there, but gimme a freakin' break. You can't
use a socket wrench over the bolt with the pitot line in the way, so you'd
be stuck using a simple wrench inside that confined space to tighten\loosen
that center bolt. Since my installation is fairly standard, I'm wondering
what others have done to make this easier.
I'm thinking of re-running the pitot line about an inch off-center toward
the top surface of the wing. That way I can still get a socket over all 3
bolts on each bracket.
Comments appreciated.
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 wings
http:\\donka.net\rv7project.html <http://donka.net/rv7project.html>
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Franz Fux" <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com> |
Re: RV7-List: Tow BarI contacted Cleveland Tools and they did not know
anything about tow bars,
Franz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lockamy, Jack L
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 7:34 AM
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tow Bar
Cleveland Tool Co. sells a tow bar made specifically for tri-gear RVs for
about $50. You can order it online from their catalog. It also collapses
for easy storage in the baggage compartment. I have two of them... one for
the hangar and one kept in the plane.
They work perfectly!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 140 hrs
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
Re: RV7-List: Tow BarM-340-026 This is the item number from WagAero.com where
I purchased mine. It works great and its $44.00.
Regards,
Tad
----- Original essage -----
From: Franz Fux
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 12:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Tow Bar
I contacted Cleveland Tools and they did not know anything about tow bars,
Franz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lockamy, Jack L
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 7:34 AM
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tow Bar
Cleveland Tool Co. sells a tow bar made specifically for tri-gear RVs for about
$50. You can order it online from their catalog. It also collapses for
easy storage in the baggage compartment. I have two of them... one for the hangar
and one kept in the plane.
They work perfectly!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 140 hrs
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel tank removal with pitot line in the way. |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Arrrgghhhh...I just seen the safefy notice....OH man I would hate to
have to do this job...Not as much as I would hate to crash the plane
though....And yes I did proseal my inspection plates directly to the
tank...Awww crap!
I know my nuts are on really tight on both my flop tubes.
Bummer!
At least My wings are not on yet.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven
Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 7:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: fuel tank removal with pitot line in the way.
Dan,
I was curious to ask you about the AD issued by Van's regarding the nut
that holds the fuel tube in place inside the tanks. What are your plans
to crack open your tanks and put a safety wire on the nut that holds the
fuel tube in place. As I remember you have a flop tube but the Ad is for
both types of fuel tube configurations.
Thanks
Steve Anderson
RV 7A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Storer" <dstorer(at)okwifi.com> |
| Subject: | Need a contact number |
Does anyone know Ross Schlotthauer of Experimental Air, Post Falls, ID
http://www.experimentalair.com/index.html , or have you done business with
him? I ordered and paid for two aluminum vents for my RV7A almost a month
ago, and have not been able to make contact with him. I hope nothing bad
has happened.
Regards,
Dan Storer
Finishing kit scheduled to ship 3/13...Oh boy!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Need a contact number |
Dan, I bought a couple of vents from him about a year ago and it seems like
it took a while but they came with no problem. The vents are the best of
the bunch. Keep checking.
Bill S
7a wiring
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Storer
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Need a contact number
Does anyone know Ross Schlotthauer of Experimental Air, Post Falls, ID
http://www.experimentalair.com/index.html , or have you done business with
him? I ordered and paid for two aluminum vents for my RV7A almost a month
ago, and have not been able to make contact with him. I hope nothing bad
has happened.
Regards,
Dan Storer
Finishing kit scheduled to ship 3/13...Oh boy!!!
<http://www.incredimail.com/index.asp?id=96767> Add FUN to your email -
CLICK HERE!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Blakey" <gblakey(at)vic.australis.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Need a contact number |
Hi Daniel,
Yes I purchased two vents, and a blank throttle bracket of him last year and like
you I waited some three months prior to receiving the items. They did arrive
however and the only reassurance I can offer you is that if you purchased it
through the online payment system, you still have an option through them. I
suggest however that you will eventually get them.
Regards, Greg Blakey (RV7-A finishing)
----- Original Message -----
From: Daniel Storer
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 12:22 PM
Subject: [S] RV7-List: Need a contact number
Does anyone know Ross Schlotthauer of Experimental Air, Post Falls, ID http://www.experimentalair.com/index.html , or have you done business with him? I ordered and paid for two aluminum vents for my RV7A almost a month ago, and have not been able to make contact with him. I hope nothing bad has happened.
Regards,
Dan Storer
Finishing kit scheduled to ship 3/13...Oh boy!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | fuel tank removal with pitot line in the way. |
Mike built both a -6A and -8: On average, I think that comes out as two
-7's. :>
Thanks for the advice.
Don
>>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV7-List: fuel tank removal with pitot line in the way.
>>Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 23:12:25 -0800
>>
>>
>>And take RV-8 builders' advice with a huge grain of salt...their wing
>>root is more accommodating.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | sorted/searchable parts list for the -7? |
Hi guys,
I have a vague memory of someone offering a parts list in an orderly
format (excel?) but all I can find in the archives back through 2000 is
mention of one for an -8.
Has anyone loaded one for the -7 into a searchable/sortable list?
Thanks,
Charlie
(fuselage inventory commencing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sorted/searchable parts list for the -7? |
Charlie try either the Vans website or Doug Reeves Vansairforce.net
Tad
>
> From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
> Date: 2006/03/10 Fri PM 10:48:38 EST
> To: RV list ,
> "rv7-list(at)matronics.com"
> Subject: RV7-List: sorted/searchable parts list for the -7?
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I have a vague memory of someone offering a parts list in an orderly
> format (excel?) but all I can find in the archives back through 2000 is
> mention of one for an -8.
>
> Has anyone loaded one for the -7 into a searchable/sortable list?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
> (fuselage inventory commencing)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Question - Countersinking Wing Spar |
I have come to the point where its time to CS the main spar and the #30
Countersink that is recommended by the plans seems to run out of blade
before it makes the CS hole deep enough for the #8 screw. My test piece
that I am using is dimpled correctly. I have the 3-blade CS set from
Cleaveland.
PS) I already have made myself a pilot out of a scrap 1/8 aluminum stock.
That part works great
Any help would be appreciated.
Scott
N696JS - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar |
Question - Countersinking Wing SparFollow the instructions. Rivet the nutplates
first they will serve to center the pilot.
When I built mine I didn't trust that. I could have. I wasted all sorts of time
using a backup strip with a pilot centering hole. Worked fine but took too
long. Could have done it in less than half the time -- by (a) following the
plans, and (b) using a ball bearing microstop cage rather than the cheap bushing
version that came with my Avery kit (I upgraded to a ball bearing cage from
Avery eventually).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (833 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R. Shook
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 7:14 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar
I have come to the point where its time to CS the main spar and the #30 Countersink
that is recommended by the plans seems to run out of blade before it makes
the CS hole deep enough for the #8 screw. My test piece that I am using is
dimpled correctly. I have the 3-blade CS set from Cleaveland.
PS) I already have made myself a pilot out of a scrap 1/8 aluminum stock. That
part works great
Any help would be appreciated.
Scott
N696JS - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar |
Question - Countersinking Wing SparOh, also, get yourself a c-sink cutter with
a larger diameter. Sorry, I misread your question at first. A larger diam cutter
will fix the problem.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Checkoway
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar
Follow the instructions. Rivet the nutplates first they will serve to center
the pilot.
When I built mine I didn't trust that. I could have. I wasted all sorts of
time using a backup strip with a pilot centering hole. Worked fine but took too
long. Could have done it in less than half the time -- by (a) following the
plans, and (b) using a ball bearing microstop cage rather than the cheap bushing
version that came with my Avery kit (I upgraded to a ball bearing cage from
Avery eventually).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (833 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R. Shook
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 7:14 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar
I have come to the point where its time to CS the main spar and the #30 Countersink
that is recommended by the plans seems to run out of blade before it
makes the CS hole deep enough for the #8 screw. My test piece that I am using
is dimpled correctly. I have the 3-blade CS set from Cleaveland.
PS) I already have made myself a pilot out of a scrap 1/8 aluminum stock.
That part works great
Any help would be appreciated.
Scott
N696JS - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Near" <bnjn(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sorted/searchable parts list for the -7? |
I have an annoying habit of not deleting any e-mails I think there is the
vaguest possibility of me needing. One of those is the parts list. Hope it
helps.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7A/files/rv7partslist.xls
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: RV7-List: sorted/searchable parts list for the -7?
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I have a vague memory of someone offering a parts list in an orderly
> format (excel?) but all I can find in the archives back through 2000 is
> mention of one for an -8.
>
> Has anyone loaded one for the -7 into a searchable/sortable list?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
> (fuselage inventory commencing)
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Question - Countersinking Wing Spar |
I have a 3/8 #40 pilot, 3/8 #30 pilot, a 7/16 #27 pilot and a 7/16 #19
pilot. I moved up to the 7/16 #27 pilot but did not try it with the
nutplate installed. I just enlarged my homemade "tool" a bit to accommodate
the pilot.
Scott
N696JS - Wings
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar
Oh, also, get yourself a c-sink cutter with a larger diameter. Sorry, I
misread your question at first. A larger diam cutter will fix the problem.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Checkoway <mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar
Follow the instructions. Rivet the nutplates first they will serve to
center the pilot.
When I built mine I didn't trust that. I could have. I wasted all sorts of
time using a backup strip with a pilot centering hole. Worked fine but took
too long. Could have done it in less than half the time -- by (a) following
the plans, and (b) using a ball bearing microstop cage rather than the cheap
bushing version that came with my Avery kit (I upgraded to a ball bearing
cage from Avery eventually).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (833 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R. Shook <mailto:sshook(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 7:14 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar
I have come to the point where its time to CS the main spar and the #30
Countersink that is recommended by the plans seems to run out of blade
before it makes the CS hole deep enough for the #8 screw. My test piece
that I am using is dimpled correctly. I have the 3-blade CS set from
Cleaveland.
PS) I already have made myself a pilot out of a scrap 1/8 aluminum stock.
That part works great
Any help would be appreciated.
Scott
N696JS - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Question - Countersinking Wing Spar |
Thanks for the follow-up Dan. Worked perfect!! I rechecked my test dimple
and the skin was slightly off. I was able to complete both spars'
countersinks yesterday.
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar
Follow the instructions. Rivet the nutplates first they will serve to
center the pilot.
When I built mine I didn't trust that. I could have. I wasted all sorts of
time using a backup strip with a pilot centering hole. Worked fine but took
too long. Could have done it in less than half the time -- by (a) following
the plans, and (b) using a ball bearing microstop cage rather than the cheap
bushing version that came with my Avery kit (I upgraded to a ball bearing
cage from Avery eventually).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (833 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R. Shook <mailto:sshook(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 7:14 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Question - Countersinking Wing Spar
I have come to the point where its time to CS the main spar and the #30
Countersink that is recommended by the plans seems to run out of blade
before it makes the CS hole deep enough for the #8 screw. My test piece
that I am using is dimpled correctly. I have the 3-blade CS set from
Cleaveland.
PS) I already have made myself a pilot out of a scrap 1/8 aluminum stock.
That part works great
Any help would be appreciated.
Scott
N696JS - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Storer" <dstorer(at)okwifi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need a contact number |
Finally got my vents today after using PayPal for assistance. They're great
quality vents and well worth the price, my opinion, and I would recommend
them. BUT, customer service is a big issue with me, so I give Experiential
Air low makes in this area.
Dan S.
P.S. Call Vans today and I could hear them in the background making the
crate for my finishing kit ....its going to be a great spring!
-------Original Message-------
From: Greg Blakey
Date: 03/08/06 15:34:27
Subject: Re: [S] RV7-List: Need a contact number
Hi Daniel,
Yes I purchased two vents, and a blank throttle bracket of him last year and
like you I waited some three months prior to receiving the items. They did
arrive however and the only reassurance I can offer you is that if you
purchased it through the online payment system, you still have an option
through them. I suggest however that you will eventually get them.
Regards, Greg Blakey (RV7-A finishing)
----- Original Message -----
From: Daniel Storer
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 12:22 PM
Subject: [S] RV7-List: Need a contact number
Does anyone know Ross Schlotthauer of Experimental Air, Post Falls, ID
http://www.experimentalair.com/index.html , or have you done business with
him? I ordered and paid for two aluminum vents for my RV7A almost a month
ago, and have not been able to make contact with him. I hope nothing bad
has happened.
Regards,
Dan Storer
Finishing kit scheduled to ship 3/13...Oh boy!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | What brand Epoxy |
I am getting together an order from spruce and I figured I would pick up an
epoxy/hardener kit from them while I was ordering.
Would the West System epoxy kit be OK for blending and finishing my
fiberglass tips, etc.?
Thanks,
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What brand Epoxy |
What brand EpoxyYeah, it's perfect. And easy. Get the West System pumps as well
(like 10 bucks), which make it trivial to ratio out the right amount.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R. Shook
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: RV7-List: What brand Epoxy
I am getting together an order from spruce and I figured I would pick up an epoxy/hardener
kit from them while I was ordering.
Would the West System epoxy kit be OK for blending and finishing my fiberglass
tips, etc.?
Thanks,
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Return Lines |
I plan on plumbing =BC inch fuel return lines into my tanks and would like
some advice on running the lines, in particular the best place to exit the
tanks. I know there was some discussion on this subject recently, but can=92t
remember if it addressed the location of vent lines or return lines. Any
advice will be appreciated.
Ken Howell
Glenwood Maryland
RV7 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Return Lines |
Ken
I just ran my return lines a few weeks ago. I ran the 1/4 inch tubing from
the mid high point of the outboard tank rib baffle. It was attached to a 90
degree fitting that I prosealed and traveled aft where a 90 degree bend was
made. It then traveled in board through 1/4 inch bushings placed in the
holes through the z brackets. Another 90 degree bend was made to travel back
to a fitting that exsited the fuse.
I know some have run there line directly from the fuse into the tank making
sure that the line travels into the second bay of the tank. I really don't
know the science as to which is best. Mine, that will enter at the highest
point of the tank where fuel will hardly ever be or the ones that will
enter in board where there will usually always be fuel. I would check with
the engine / fuel injection folks to get their suggestions. I did mine per
Robbie Attaway's advice. He will be the individual that builds my ECi
engine.
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV7-List: Fuel Return Lines
>Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 17:07:20 -0500
>
>I plan on plumbing inch fuel return lines into my tanks and would like
>some advice on running the lines, in particular the best place to exit the
>tanks. I know there was some discussion on this subject recently, but cant
>remember if it addressed the location of vent lines or return lines. Any
>advice will be appreciated.
>
>
>Ken Howell
>
>Glenwood Maryland
>
>RV7 Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Return Lines |
Ken
I just ran my return lines a few weeks ago. I ran the 1/4 inch tubing from
the mid high point of the outboard tank rib baffle. It was attached to a 90
degree fitting that I prosealed and traveled aft where a 90 degree bend was
made. It then traveled in board through 1/4 inch bushings placed in the
holes through the z brackets. Another 90 degree bend was made to travel back
to a fitting that exsited the fuse.
I know some have run there line directly from the fuse into the tank making
sure that the line travels into the second bay of the tank. I really don't
know the science as to which is best. Mine, that will enter at the highest
point of the tank where fuel will hardly ever be or the ones that will
enter in board where there will usually always be fuel. I would check with
the engine / fuel injection folks to get their suggestions. I did mine per
Robbie Attaway's advice. He will be the individual that builds my ECi
engine.
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV7-List: Fuel Return Lines
>Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 17:07:20 -0500
>
>I plan on plumbing inch fuel return lines into my tanks and would like
>some advice on running the lines, in particular the best place to exit the
>tanks. I know there was some discussion on this subject recently, but cant
>remember if it addressed the location of vent lines or return lines. Any
>advice will be appreciated.
>
>
>Ken Howell
>
>Glenwood Maryland
>
>RV7 Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Dead Stick Aerobatics - Sort of RV related |
On 3:42:14 2006-03-17 "Dana Overall" wrote:
> Bill, just a side. I watched Hoover perform deadstick at the Dayton
> Airshow one year when he performed the following...
For fans of energy-management-aerobatics, look for an act by Kent Peach at
your local airshows. Kent flies an Interstate Cadet, which is a high-wing,
two-place, side-by-side airplane somewhat like a Fleet Canuck. He starts
off high, shuts the engine off, and performs loops, rolls, spins, down to
ground level, does a "high-speed" pass, pulls up into a 180, and lands on
the closest runway or taxiway. Then he rolls up towards the crowd where
his assistant is standing with his hand up, and rolls the airplane right up
to the assistant, placing the spinner in his hand. The claim is that it's
done without using the brakes, but who knows really.
The two best crowd-approach manouevers i've seen so far are Bob Granley's
(he turns the harvard tail-first to the crowd, and backs it up to the
fence, while looking over his shoulder like he's backing up a car) and
Delmar Benjamin's (he does a pirouette in front of the crowd, when the side
of the Gee-bee with the door gets out of sight, he unlatches it and
positions himself in the doorway, then when it comes around again he pops
out and bows to the crowd as the plane stops turning.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Return Lines |
Frank,
Thanks for the info. I'm also thinking about bringing them straight out
slightly aft of the vent line. I'm trying to find out the best place to exit
the end rib so it doesn't interfere with anything in the wing root.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frank Stringham
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 11:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Fuel Return Lines
Ken
I just ran my return lines a few weeks ago. I ran the 1/4 inch tubing from
the mid high point of the outboard tank rib baffle. It was attached to a 90
degree fitting that I prosealed and traveled aft where a 90 degree bend was
made. It then traveled in board through 1/4 inch bushings placed in the
holes through the z brackets. Another 90 degree bend was made to travel back
to a fitting that exsited the fuse.
I know some have run there line directly from the fuse into the tank making
sure that the line travels into the second bay of the tank. I really don't
know the science as to which is best. Mine, that will enter at the highest
point of the tank where fuel will hardly ever be or the ones that will
enter in board where there will usually always be fuel. I would check with
the engine / fuel injection folks to get their suggestions. I did mine per
Robbie Attaway's advice. He will be the individual that builds my ECi
engine.
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV7-List: Fuel Return Lines
>Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 17:07:20 -0500
>
>I plan on plumbing inch fuel return lines into my tanks and would like
>some advice on running the lines, in particular the best place to exit the
>tanks. I know there was some discussion on this subject recently, but cant
>remember if it addressed the location of vent lines or return lines. Any
>advice will be appreciated.
>
>
>Ken Howell
>
>Glenwood Maryland
>
>RV7 Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cory Emberson <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Feedback Request (Alternative Engines) Kitplanes Magazine |
Hello all,
I would like to hear from you if you're a builder who has successfully
installed and flown an alternative engine in your plane. I'm compiling a
builder's roundup for Kitplanes magazine, and am looking for an
installation that's flown for a minimum of 300 hours, and is currently
flying.
For the builders that we profile, the magazine will also be able to pay
you $100 for the write-up. I'll be at Sun 'n Fun until late morning on
Friday (April 7), so if you fly in, I'd be happy to take the photos
there. If not, we would also need at least 2-3 good photos, including a
close-up of the engine and an overall shot of the aircraft. Additional
photos would be great, and all photos will be returned. If you have
digital photos, it is very important that they be high-resolution, at
least 300 dpi. I have a list of specific areas to address if you'd like
to participate, but we can handle that off-line. Please feel free to
contact me off-line at: bootless (at) earthlink (dot) net (my despammed
email address).
Thank you so much!
best,
Cory Emberson
Contributing Editor
Kitplanes Magazine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV9 Construction Manual |
| From: | "Streiker, Stephen D." <steve(at)streiker.com> |
Good Morning
I have an RV-9A Constuction Manual (perfect shape). I am planning to
build an RV7 so I'll need to get one of those. I'd either trade or sell
this 9A manual.
Steve
Stephen D. Streiker
stephen.streiker(at)bt.infonet.com
Mobile: 323 252 0277
Personal email: steve(at)streiker.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV9 Construction Manual |
| From: | "Streiker, Stephen D." <steve(at)streiker.com> |
Good Morning
I have an RV-9A Constuction Manual (perfect shape). I am planning to
build an RV7 so I'll need to get one of those. I'd either trade or sell
this 9A manual.
Steve
Stephen D. Streiker
stephen.streiker(at)bt.infonet.com
Mobile: 323 252 0277
Personal email: steve(at)streiker.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Email List Wiki! |
Dear Listers,
I have added a new feature to the Email List Forums at Matronics called a Wiki. What's "Wiki" you ask? A Wiki is a website. You go to it and browse just like you would any other web site. The difference is, you can change it. You can put anything you want on this web site without having to be a web designer or even being the owner. You can write a new page just like writing an email message on the BBS. You don't need to send it off to anyone to install on the site. It is kind of like a Blog (weblog) in which anyone can post. Here is a great page on where the term Wiki came from and what it means in the context of a website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki
So on to the new Matronics Email List Wiki... I've created this site for anyone
from any of the Email Lists to use. I envision that there are a great many
things that can be added to this new Wiki since there are always new and interesting
tidbits of useful information traversing the Lists.
Off the main Matronics Email List Wiki page, you will find a link called "Community
Portal". Here you will find more links to stubs for all the various Lists
found at Matronics (and a few other links). Brian Lloyd and others from the
Yak-List have already begun adding content in a number of areas. Bob Nuckolls
of AeroElectric fame has added a great article on "Ageing Aircraft".
I have discussed the new Matronics Email List Wiki with Tedd McHenry and Dwight Frye of the RV Wiki Site and they have decided to merge their site over onto the new Matronics Wiki server giving everyone a single source for information on RV building and flying! This migration will begin today and you should be able to find all of the content currently found at www.rvwiki.org moved over to the Matronics Wiki within a few days.
To make edits to the Matronics Wiki, you will need to have a login account on the
Matronics Wiki and I have disabled anonymous edits. This protects the Wiki
site from automated spam engines and other nuisances that could compromise the
data at the site.
Signing up for an account is fast and easy and begins by clicking on the "create
an account or log in" link in the upper right hand corner of any page. Note
that you do not have to have a login or be logged in to view any of the content.
The Matronics Email List Wiki is YOUR Wiki! It is only as useful as the content
found within. The concept of the Wiki is that the people the use it and update
it. If you've got an interesting procedure for doing something, MAKE A WIKI
PAGE ON IT! You can even upload pictures. Saw something interesting at a
flyin? MAKE A WIKI PAGE ON IT! Don't be shy, this is YOUR site to share information
with others with similar interests.
Here is a users guide on using the Wiki implemented at Matronics: http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents This gives a lot of great information on how to get started editing pages.
And finally, here is the URL for the Matronics Email List Wiki:
http://wiki.matronics.com
Brian Lloyd has written an excellent introduction to Wikis on the front page.
I encourage you to read it over, then drill into the "Community Portal" and HAVE
FUN!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D,C,Jones" <cliffjones(at)look.ca> |
I'm at a point where I'm assembling a list of instruments that I will need and/or
like. I'm looking at the TruTrak ADI Basic. Could anyone with information,
positive or negative on its use and operation, please email me?
Thanks.
Cliff RV9A
fuse
cliffjones(at)look.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
The ADI works great. If you are not in a big hurry for I would wait a
bit before ordering it. The new version coming out will have AOA in it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sjevans" <sjevans(at)cox.net> |
Norman,
I've heard bits & pieces about the TruTrak AOA that's "coming".
I can't seem to locate any info about it on their website. What is the
source of this info?
I've ordered only the servos for my TruTrak AP...reasons being that I
needed to install the servos now, but could wait on the control unit and
if something better comes along as far as the control unit. If the info
is right about the AOA, then my "hunch" may have paid-off.
Sam
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Norman Younie
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: TruTrak ADI
The ADI works great. If you are not in a big hurry for I would wait a
bit before ordering it. The new version coming out will have AOA in it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
I think the RV Builder's Hotline was the source of that information, relayed
from Stein at Steinair during a meeting of the Minnesota Wing of Van's
Airforce on March 11 (cpy of issue here
http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/archives/03112006.htm). I saw the
flyers, they wwere Tru Trak ads...like you see in the magazine and we were
told the next round of advertising will hve those ads in there.
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sjevans
> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 4:41 PM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV7-List: TruTrak ADI
>
>
>
> Norman,
> I've heard bits & pieces about the TruTrak AOA that's
> "coming". I can't seem to locate any info about it on their
> website. What is the source of this info? I've ordered only
> the servos for my TruTrak AP...reasons being that I needed to
> install the servos now, but could wait on the control unit
> and if something better comes along as far as the control
> unit. If the info is right about the AOA, then my "hunch"
> may have paid-off. Sam
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Norman Younie
> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:27 PM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: TruTrak ADI
>
>
>
> The ADI works great. If you are not in a big hurry for I would wait a
> bit before ordering it. The new version coming out will have
> AOA in it.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Womack" <womack2005(at)hotmail.com> |
You could call Dick Martin. He does the TruTrack testing in his RV-8 in
Green Bay. I know he was/is at SnF but may be back now? I have his number
if you are interested.
Will Womack
>From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV7-List: TruTrak ADI
>Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 22:05:19 -0500
>
>
>I think the RV Builder's Hotline was the source of that information,
>relayed
>from Stein at Steinair during a meeting of the Minnesota Wing of Van's
>Airforce on March 11 (cpy of issue here
>http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/archives/03112006.htm). I saw the
>flyers, they wwere Tru Trak ads...like you see in the magazine and we were
>told the next round of advertising will hve those ads in there.
>
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sjevans
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 4:41 PM
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: TruTrak ADI
> >
> >
> >
> > Norman,
> > I've heard bits & pieces about the TruTrak AOA that's
> > "coming". I can't seem to locate any info about it on their
> > website. What is the source of this info? I've ordered only
> > the servos for my TruTrak AP...reasons being that I needed to
> > install the servos now, but could wait on the control unit
> > and if something better comes along as far as the control
> > unit. If the info is right about the AOA, then my "hunch"
> > may have paid-off. Sam
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> > Norman Younie
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 2:27 PM
> > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TruTrak ADI
> >
> >
> >
> > The ADI works great. If you are not in a big hurry for I would wait a
> > bit before ordering it. The new version coming out will have
> > AOA in it.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall penetrations |
| From: | "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com> |
Looking for some insights on installing a vertical sump IO-360 on a 7A. I ordered
a TMX-IO-360 and have my FWF kit. Vans had me get the O-360 FWF with several
adjustments. I installed my boost pump and filter per the Vans drawing but stopped
short of plumbing the feed line from the pump to the firewall because I
couldn't determine where to penetrate. The Vans drawing are for horizontal sump
IOs.
My first question was whether the gascolator was used with the IO installation.
A search of old threads indicates it is optional but recommended. So I guess
I'll be adding that.
Does the Vans gascolator work with the IO engines?
The next question is where do I penetrate the FW? The IO FWF shows the penetration
more to the center than does the O-360 drawing (lower right corner at the
gascolator). I'm sure many builders have crossed this bridge already so I would
appreciate some hints.
I'm thinking the gascolator and FW penetration should be per the O-360 drawing,
is that right?
Any other penetration peculiarities I should expect?
Jekyll
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27419#27419
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | tool recommendations? |
I want to buy a reasonably priced digital protractor\inclinometer and a
decent torque wrench that can handle inch-pounds.
My current wratcheting torque wrench is perhaps of questionable quality or
at the very least it is not idiot proof. It is designed to torque as low as
25 in-lbs, but it let me strip the heck out of a few bolts on the wings.
Don't trust the thing now.
Any recommendations?
Thanks!
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http:\\donka.net\rv7project.html
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul K" <greif8(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tool recommendations? |
Try Snap On for the torque wrench. I have the dial model works great.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 4:19 PM
Subject: RV7-List: tool recommendations?
>
>
> I want to buy a reasonably priced digital protractor\inclinometer and a
> decent torque wrench that can handle inch-pounds.
>
> My current wratcheting torque wrench is perhaps of questionable quality or
> at the very least it is not idiot proof. It is designed to torque as low
> as
> 25 in-lbs, but it let me strip the heck out of a few bolts on the wings.
> Don't trust the thing now.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks!
>
> ******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http:\\donka.net\rv7project.html
> ******************************************
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tool recommendations? |
Don,
I bought one from Sears (torque wrench) and then had it calibrated to insure it
was accurate. I had my Aircraft Maint shop send it in as they have theirs calibrated
every year. If they don't pass calibration they are junk. Sounds like
yours may be.
Bill
RV-7a Fuselage about to tip it.
>
> From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
> Date: 2006/04/18 Tue PM 05:19:21 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RV7-List: tool recommendations?
>
>
>
> I want to buy a reasonably priced digital protractor\inclinometer and a
> decent torque wrench that can handle inch-pounds.
>
> My current wratcheting torque wrench is perhaps of questionable quality or
> at the very least it is not idiot proof. It is designed to torque as low as
> 25 in-lbs, but it let me strip the heck out of a few bolts on the wings.
> Don't trust the thing now.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks!
>
> ******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http:\\donka.net\rv7project.html
> ******************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Hi guys,
Just finishing up the details on the RV7a and wondered what methods you
all used to fix the nut in the fiberglass rudder bottom to hold the
tail/strobe light on.
These are pretty small...like #4 screws (that look too short) is that
correct?
Thanks
frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
Before I cut the hole, I poured some epoxy resin in there to make the
back about 1/2" thick. Then simply cut the hole and drilled and tapped
for the screws. I'm pretty sure that I got some longer screws too. I
don't know what size but #4 sounds about right.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
>
>Just finishing up the details on the RV7a and wondered what methods you
>all used to fix the nut in the fiberglass rudder bottom to hold the
>tail/strobe light on.
>
>These are pretty small...like #4 screws (that look too short) is that
>correct?
>
>Thanks
>
>frank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
Why not just glue the nuts to the inside of the fairing?
Bevan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tail light
Before I cut the hole, I poured some epoxy resin in there to make the back
about 1/2" thick. Then simply cut the hole and drilled and tapped for the
screws. I'm pretty sure that I got some longer screws too. I don't know
what size but #4 sounds about right.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
>-->
>
> Hi guys,
>
>Just finishing up the details on the RV7a and wondered what methods you
>all used to fix the nut in the fiberglass rudder bottom to hold the
>tail/strobe light on.
>
>These are pretty small...like #4 screws (that look too short) is that
>correct?
>
>Thanks
>
>frank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Near" <bnjn(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
I actually saw this solution mentioned in the RVator but I don't remember
when. The solution they recommend is to drill out the hole for the light. I
think it is 1-1/8". Then insert the light with it's mounting bracket and
drill the hole above and below. Mix up a thick mixture of epoxy and cotton
flox. I use the West System so I use their micro-filler. I don't remember
the actual product number. I then put in a glop of the mixture behind each
of the small holes inside the rudder and let it harden overnight. The next
day (or next work session) drill through the holes you previously drilled,
insert the light and screw the small screws into the cured "glop". It fits
very snug and is the easiest way to do it. I tried to epoxy those little
nuts in the rudder bottom but they always stuck well to my finger and not to
the fiberglass. Also, the inside of my rudder bottom had some pieces of
fiberglass that had not bonded so it was like a thick hard shelf I couldn't
cut through.
Hope this helps. In my experience, it is the easiest way to do it. E-mail
back if I didn't explain it well.
Bill Near
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Tail light
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Just finishing up the details on the RV7a and wondered what methods you
> all used to fix the nut in the fiberglass rudder bottom to hold the
> tail/strobe light on.
>
> These are pretty small...like #4 screws (that look too short) is that
> correct?
>
> Thanks
>
> frank
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SMITHBKN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Firewall Fuel Line Penetration |
Group,
I'm looking at drawing OP-32 and trying to figure out if the firewall
doubler used in conjunction with AN833-6D fuel line elbow fitting is on the engine
side of the firewall or the cabin side of the firewall? Can anyone help with
this?
Jeff
RV-7A
Knoxville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Fuel Line Penetration |
I put mine on the cabin side.
Dave
RV7A, engine mounted,
on gear, working on panel
and canopy
On Apr 28, 2006, at 7:14 PM, SMITHBKN(at)aol.com wrote:
> Group,
>
> I'm looking at drawing OP-32 and trying to figure out if the
> firewall doubler used in conjunction with AN833-6D fuel line elbow
> fitting is on the engine side of the firewall or the cabin side of
> the firewall? Can anyone help with this?
>
> Jeff
> RV-7A
> Knoxville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
Frank I went the east route. I replaced the nuts and bolts with stainless
screws. Just screw them in and fly.
Tad
N130TS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Tail light
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Just finishing up the details on the RV7a and wondered what methods you
> all used to fix the nut in the fiberglass rudder bottom to hold the
> tail/strobe light on.
>
> These are pretty small...like #4 screws (that look too short) is that
> correct?
>
> Thanks
>
> frank
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Replacement Screws for Phillips |
| From: | "macrafic" <macrafic(at)charter.net> |
I agree with those who are looking for alternative screws to the AN-509 Phillip
screws. However, a bit of caution is in order, so that you know the difference
between a structural and a non-structural application. Van's plans do not
point this out. Here is the reply I got from MicroFasteners when I asked about
their screws. Microfasteners is the brand that has shown up quite a bit on
various RV forums:
"Our stainless steel 100 degree flat head torx drive screws are all intended
to replace the cross recessed screws of NASM24693 (which has superseded AN507)
covering non-structural screws. Their tensile strength is 85,000 psi minimum,
same as the requirement for structural screws of NASM24694 (which has superseded
AN509,) so the tensile strength for 8-32 screws is 1190 lbs, minimum. However
their intended use is nonstructural and the grip length requirement of the
structural screw spec is not met.
We emphasize that these are not mil spec screws; first no testing has been done
to verify that, apart from the different drive, they meet the
requirements of either of the specs listed above, and second there is no mil spec
covering these screws, to the best of our knowledge.
We don't have the AN509 spec, but the superseding NASM spec lists parts of three
different compositions and hence strengths: low alloy steel at 125,000 psi,
aluminum alloy at 62,000 psi and corrosion resistant (stainless) steel at 85,000
psi. Our parts are the latter. Please don't use them where the 125,000 psi
parts are specified."
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32048#32048
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacement Screws for Phillips |
While I agree that caution is always in order when you are more than
about 10 ft in the air, we can carry it to extremes sometimes. Let's
consider this discussion. On the RV9A (what I am building) there are 32
screws on the top and 32 screws on the bottom of the wing tanks. Each
#8 screw can withstand 1190 lbs of tensile force before it breaks - as
noted below and confirmed by my calculations. The wing tank holds 18
gallons of gas for a weight of 108 lbs. plus the weight of the tank of
(conservative SWAG) 50 lbs for a total weight of 158 lbs. There is some
leverage on the screws since the tank sticks out the front of the wing,
but not a whole lot since the brackets will act as the fulcrum and they
are several inches below the wing skins. Furthermore, true shear (which
this really isn't) results in a strength of 50-75% the value of the
tensile strength. So if we take the 32 screws times the tensile
strength of 1190 lbs time 0.5 (being conservative) we get a total yield
strength of 19,000 lbs. At ten Gs the 158 lbs of the tank will be 1580
lbs. This is still more than ten times below the ultimate yield
strength of the screws. Let's assume that we have a leverage factor of
2-3 times the actual weight - probably not true but let's be
conservative. Even this still gives a safety factor of four times - at
a stress level where the wings will probably be falling off. In
addition to all this, it is a well known fact that the dimpled joints
add considerably to the shear strength of a rivet or screw joint and we
have completely ignored this fact. We have also ignored the additional
screws on the end of the tank and the front wing support as well.
So... I plan to use the #8 MicroFastener torx screws on my wing tanks
and sleep very well at night.
Dick Tasker
macrafic wrote:
>
>I agree with those who are looking for alternative screws to the AN-509 Phillip
screws. However, a bit of caution is in order, so that you know the difference
between a structural and a non-structural application. Van's plans do not
point this out. Here is the reply I got from MicroFasteners when I asked about
their screws. Microfasteners is the brand that has shown up quite a bit on
various RV forums:
>
>"Our stainless steel 100 degree flat head torx drive screws are all intended
>to replace the cross recessed screws of NASM24693 (which has superseded AN507)
covering non-structural screws. Their tensile strength is 85,000 psi minimum,
same as the requirement for structural screws of NASM24694 (which has superseded
AN509,) so the tensile strength for 8-32 screws is 1190 lbs, minimum. However
their intended use is nonstructural and the grip length requirement of the
structural screw spec is not met.
>
>We emphasize that these are not mil spec screws; first no testing has been done
to verify that, apart from the different drive, they meet the
>requirements of either of the specs listed above, and second there is no mil spec
covering these screws, to the best of our knowledge.
>
>We don't have the AN509 spec, but the superseding NASM spec lists parts of three
different compositions and hence strengths: low alloy steel at 125,000 psi,
aluminum alloy at 62,000 psi and corrosion resistant (stainless) steel at 85,000
psi. Our parts are the latter. Please don't use them where the 125,000 psi
parts are specified."
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32048#32048
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr> |
| Subject: | Replacement Screws for Phillips |
Makes a lot of sense - there appears to be a huge amount of safety factor
built into the arrangement which attaches the tanks onto the spars. Consider
it another way. If Vans had put only the screws necessary to do the job with
a safety factor of 2, we would en up with a lot fewer screws - probably 3
out of every 4 would be eliminated. I figure that if I were to look at my
tanks and see only one screw every 4 inches or so, I'd not want to fly the
thing: Psychology 101.
Michele - RV8 fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard E. Tasker
Sent: mardi 2 mai 2006 05:11
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Replacement Screws for Phillips
Importance: High
While I agree that caution is always in order when you are more than
about 10 ft in the air, we can carry it to extremes sometimes. Let's
consider this discussion. On the RV9A (what I am building) there are 32
screws on the top and 32 screws on the bottom of the wing tanks. Each
#8 screw can withstand 1190 lbs of tensile force before it breaks - as
noted below and confirmed by my calculations. The wing tank holds 18
gallons of gas for a weight of 108 lbs. plus the weight of the tank of
(conservative SWAG) 50 lbs for a total weight of 158 lbs. There is some
leverage on the screws since the tank sticks out the front of the wing,
but not a whole lot since the brackets will act as the fulcrum and they
are several inches below the wing skins. Furthermore, true shear (which
this really isn't) results in a strength of 50-75% the value of the
tensile strength. So if we take the 32 screws times the tensile
strength of 1190 lbs time 0.5 (being conservative) we get a total yield
strength of 19,000 lbs. At ten Gs the 158 lbs of the tank will be 1580
lbs. This is still more than ten times below the ultimate yield
strength of the screws. Let's assume that we have a leverage factor of
2-3 times the actual weight - probably not true but let's be
conservative. Even this still gives a safety factor of four times - at
a stress level where the wings will probably be falling off. In
addition to all this, it is a well known fact that the dimpled joints
add considerably to the shear strength of a rivet or screw joint and we
have completely ignored this fact. We have also ignored the additional
screws on the end of the tank and the front wing support as well.
So... I plan to use the #8 MicroFastener torx screws on my wing tanks
and sleep very well at night.
Dick Tasker
macrafic wrote:
>
>I agree with those who are looking for alternative screws to the AN-509
Phillip screws. However, a bit of caution is in order, so that you know the
difference between a structural and a non-structural application. Van's
plans do not point this out. Here is the reply I got from MicroFasteners
when I asked about their screws. Microfasteners is the brand that has shown
up quite a bit on various RV forums:
>
>"Our stainless steel 100 degree flat head torx drive screws are all
intended
>to replace the cross recessed screws of NASM24693 (which has superseded
AN507) covering non-structural screws. Their tensile strength is 85,000 psi
minimum, same as the requirement for structural screws of NASM24694 (which
has superseded AN509,) so the tensile strength for 8-32 screws is 1190 lbs,
minimum. However their intended use is nonstructural and the grip length
requirement of the structural screw spec is not met.
>
>We emphasize that these are not mil spec screws; first no testing has been
done to verify that, apart from the different drive, they meet the
>requirements of either of the specs listed above, and second there is no
mil spec covering these screws, to the best of our knowledge.
>
>We don't have the AN509 spec, but the superseding NASM spec lists parts of
three different compositions and hence strengths: low alloy steel at 125,000
psi, aluminum alloy at 62,000 psi and corrosion resistant (stainless) steel
at 85,000 psi. Our parts are the latter. Please don't use them where the
125,000 psi parts are specified."
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32048#32048
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Replacement Screws for Phillips |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
I totally agree with Dick. I posted a similar analysis - based on shear
strength - on the RV list a while back. If the tanks fall off, you will
see torn aluminum, not failed fasteners!
I used to design aircraft structures, and already have the Microfastener
Torx screws on my wing tanks. I'm not flying yet, but also sleep
soundly with that decision.
Dennis Glaeser
7A - Fuselage
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Replacement Screws for Phillips
While I agree that caution is always in order when you are more than
about 10 ft in the air, we can carry it to extremes sometimes. Let's
consider this discussion. On the RV9A (what I am building) there are 32
screws on the top and 32 screws on the bottom of the wing tanks. Each
#8 screw can withstand 1190 lbs of tensile force before it breaks - as
noted below and confirmed by my calculations. The wing tank holds 18
gallons of gas for a weight of 108 lbs. plus the weight of the tank of
(conservative SWAG) 50 lbs for a total weight of 158 lbs. There is some
leverage on the screws since the tank sticks out the front of the wing,
but not a whole lot since the brackets will act as the fulcrum and they
are several inches below the wing skins. Furthermore, true shear (which
this really isn't) results in a strength of 50-75% the value of the
tensile strength. So if we take the 32 screws times the tensile
strength of 1190 lbs time 0.5 (being conservative) we get a total yield
strength of 19,000 lbs. At ten Gs the 158 lbs of the tank will be 1580
lbs. This is still more than ten times below the ultimate yield
strength of the screws. Let's assume that we have a leverage factor of
2-3 times the actual weight - probably not true but let's be
conservative. Even this still gives a safety factor of four times - at
a stress level where the wings will probably be falling off. In
addition to all this, it is a well known fact that the dimpled joints
add considerably to the shear strength of a rivet or screw joint and we
have completely ignored this fact. We have also ignored the additional
screws on the end of the tank and the front wing support as well.
So... I plan to use the #8 MicroFastener torx screws on my wing tanks
and sleep very well at night.
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List Digest: Silicon dab in elevators - how important |
is it?
Help!
I'm slowly working my way thru my elevator only to realize i did the final
riviting before I put a dab of silicone or sealant between the stiffeners.
How important is this? Should I drill out all the rivits and do it again?
Thanks
jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List Digest: Silicon dab in elevators - how important |
is it?
Jon,
Don't drill out the elevator, you will likely do more damage than the lack of silicon
will cause. If your elevator does crack, and that is only a maybe, then
you can fix it later. Build on.
Mike Ice RV-9 fuselage, installing tail wheel
Anchorage, Alaska
----- Original Message -----
From: Dog67(at)aol.com
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 12:33 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Re: RV7-List Digest: Silicon dab in elevators - how important
is it?
Help!
I'm slowly working my way thru my elevator only to realize i did the final riviting
before I put a dab of silicone or sealant between the stiffeners. How
important is this? Should I drill out all the rivits and do it again?
Thanks
jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dsvs(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List Digest: Silicon dab in elevators - how important |
is it?
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Dog67(at)aol.com
> Help!
> I'm slowly working my way thru my elevator only to realize i did the final
> riviting before I put a dab of silicone or sealant between the stiffeners.
> How important is this? Should I drill out all the rivits and do it again?
> Thanks
> jon
Jon,
I did the same thing on my first set of elevators. I talked to the tech guys at
Van's and they said not to worry. The elevator skins are now thicker than in
the older kits and the cracking has not been a problem as a result. Don
From: Dog67(at)aol.com
Subject: RV7-List: Re: RV7-List Digest: Silicon dab in elevators - how important
is it?
Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 08:42:00 +0000
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_12834_1146664286_1
Help!
I'm slowly working my way thru my elevator only to realize i did the fi=
nal
riviting before I put a dab of silicone or sealant between the stiffeners.&n=
bsp;
How important is this? Should I drill out all the rivits and do it
again?
Thanks
jon
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_12834_1146664286_1--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List Digest: Silicon dab in elevators - how important |
...
Thanks :)
Saved me lots of work
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List Digest: Silicon dab in elevators - how important |
i...
Thanks :)
Saved me a lot of work
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List Digest: Silicon dab in elevators - how important |
is it?
Dog67(at)aol.com wrote:
>Help!
>I'm slowly working my way thru my elevator only to realize i did the final
>riviting before I put a dab of silicone or sealant between the stiffeners.
>How important is this? Should I drill out all the rivits and do it again?
>Thanks
>jon
>
>
>
If you're still worried after the previous posts, try running some of
that 1/4" translucent semi-rigid tubing from the building supply into
the trailing edge from the end. On my elevators, I could slip it in past
the stiffeners. If it will fit in yours, you can force the silicone into
the tubing a couple of inches, insert the tube along the trailing edge a
measured distance to the innermost stiffener, & force the silicone out
with a little compressed air.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Want a head start on an RV7A |
| From: | bryan hooks <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net> |
Due to personal reasons, I must sell my pride and joy. I have 4 slow,
careful years invested in this kit - it is much more complete than a
quick-build kit. Its on the gear and ready for engine and avionics.
Canopy is 95% complete (all plexi work is done) and aft-top fuselage skins
are still clecoed in place for easy access. Wings are complete, but not
attached. Included with this kit is $4000 worth of options and upgrades from
the basic kit, to include the leather interior/side walls, AOA system,
heated pitot, custom instrument panel, etc. If you know of someone
considering a quick-build kit, please let them know to contact me off-list.
Ill make someone a very good deal.
RV7A tip up
Electric aileron and elevator trim
Dual brakes
Dual steps
Capacitive fuel sending units in both tanks
Inverted fuel pickups in both tanks
Airflow performance high pressure fuel pump
Extended instrument panel to allow room for dual GRT EFIS
Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack system AOA Sport
Graetz GA1000 Heated Pitot tube and chrome mounting bracket
Leading Edge Landing Lights from Ductworks
Fairings-ETC gear leg/wheel pant intersection fairings
Engine mount, cowl, and spinner for 180hp IO360 Constant Speed from Superior
Super Sound Proofing for cockpit floor, sides, firewall, and aft fuselage.
Clasic Aero Deluxe Leather Seats, Stick Boots, and Side Panels (includes
baggage area sides). This is the best looking interior Ive found anywhere!
Thanks,
Bryan Hooks
RV7A slowbuild
Knoxville, TN
bryanhooks(at)comcast.net
865-806-4334
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gandjpappy(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Quick Build vs Custom Built |
Here is what I think is different twist to an old question.
I have investigated a couple of custom built kits that are at, or slightly
beyond the quick build stage. Would a kit put together by an inexperienced
builder be worth looking at if it included a couple thousand dollars worth of
extras and cost about the same as a factory quick build? I keep thinking that
I would be better off buying a new quick build kit with exactly what I
wanted even if it ended up costing a bit more.
Opinions?
Thanks,
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Richard Dudley ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Richard Dudley
Lists: AeroElectric-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List,RV-List
Subject: Groundpower jack
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rhdudley1@bellsouth.net.05.08.2006/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build vs Custom Built |
Cc: Gandjpappy(at)aol.com
Greg,
It would seem you have answered your own question, reference your last sentence.
It is a question of comfort. Having spent the last two plus years on a slow
build I know my eye is critical enough now to evaluate a slow build for my comfort
level. It seems in the ads I've seen that at least the seller sees additional
value in factory quick builds as the asking price is generally higher.
IMHO, if your new to building and in a hurry then the quick build is the way to
go. Just remember you still have a large portion to build yourself and you would
be one of those "inexperienced builders". If you are experienced in building
and just want a jump start on the next project I would look at slow build
projects, carefully of course, for a better return on your investment.
Good luck!!
Bill
RV 7A Canoe
---- Gandjpappy(at)aol.com wrote:
> Here is what I think is different twist to an old question.
>
> I have investigated a couple of custom built kits that are at, or slightly
> beyond the quick build stage. Would a kit put together by an inexperienced
> builder be worth looking at if it included a couple thousand dollars worth of
> extras and cost about the same as a factory quick build? I keep thinking that
> I would be better off buying a new quick build kit with exactly what I
> wanted even if it ended up costing a bit more.
>
> Opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/10/06 |
| From: | "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy(at)navy.mil> |
I think your statement would have been more correctly stated by saying...."you
would be one of those "SMART builders"... by going with a Quickbuild rather than
slow build...not an "inexperienced builder".
My RV-7A kit (#71103) was a quickbuild and was my third aircraft. I'm no expert
but I'm also not a novice. I realized (as many others do) that going with a
Quickbuild kit is the only way to go! The cost difference in the big scheme
of things (about $8K extra for my wings and fuselage) was actually well worth
the extra money, saved lots of time at about $8 p/hr for foreign labor by my calculations).
I live alone and would have to have a buddy/friend stop by and
help me shoot most of those rivets if going slow build. The workmanship of the
QB kits is amazing! I nor any of my RV buddies could find a single rivet not
driven properly (I can't say the same for those rivets I had to install :-).
I also agree with your statement that there is still a tremendous amount of
work the builder will still have to complete (51%?) and as we all know, finishing
is approx. 90% of the project.
Inexperienced builders go QB....no way! Smart builders...YES!!!
My two cents,
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A N174JL 180 hrs and FLYING!
www.jacklockamy.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV7-List Digest
Server
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 23:58
Subject: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/10/06
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-05-10.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-05-10.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
RV7-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Wed 05/10/06: 1
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:00 AM - Re: Quick Build vs Custom Built ()
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
From: <wlull(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Quick Build vs Custom Built
Cc: Gandjpappy(at)aol.com
Greg,
It would seem you have answered your own question, reference your last sentence.
It is a question of comfort. Having spent the last two plus years on a slow
build I know my eye is critical enough now to evaluate a slow build for my comfort
level. It seems in the ads I've seen that at least the seller sees additional
value in factory quick builds as the asking price is generally higher.
IMHO, if your new to building and in a hurry then the quick build is the way to
go. Just remember you still have a large portion to build yourself and you would
be one of those "inexperienced builders". If you are experienced in building
and just want a jump start on the next project I would look at slow build
projects, carefully of course, for a better return on your investment.
Good luck!!
Bill
RV 7A Canoe
---- Gandjpappy(at)aol.com wrote:
> Here is what I think is different twist to an old question.
>
> I have investigated a couple of custom built kits that are at, or slightly
> beyond the quick build stage. Would a kit put together by an inexperienced
> builder be worth looking at if it included a couple thousand dollars worth of
> extras and cost about the same as a factory quick build? I keep thinking that
> I would be better off buying a new quick build kit with exactly what I
> wanted even if it ended up costing a bit more.
>
> Opinions?
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/10/06 |
Cc: "Lockamy, Jack L"
Yup, can't disagree. I did slow build for the 'educational opportunity' but didn't
realize it was going to be a doctorate degree! My point was that even with
a quick build we will have plenty of opportunity to make lots and lots of mistakes.
I really really enjoy the building process, but, wings are so borrrring. I would
probably do a quick build too if I build another one. Although those RV3s are
really cute!
Bill
---- "Lockamy wrote:
>
> I think your statement would have been more correctly stated by saying...."you
would be one of those "SMART builders"... by going with a Quickbuild rather
than slow build...not an "inexperienced builder".
>
> My RV-7A kit (#71103) was a quickbuild and was my third aircraft. I'm no expert
but I'm also not a novice. I realized (as many others do) that going with
a Quickbuild kit is the only way to go! The cost difference in the big scheme
of things (about $8K extra for my wings and fuselage) was actually well worth
the extra money, saved lots of time at about $8 p/hr for foreign labor by my
calculations). I live alone and would have to have a buddy/friend stop by and
help me shoot most of those rivets if going slow build. The workmanship of
the QB kits is amazing! I nor any of my RV buddies could find a single rivet
not driven properly (I can't say the same for those rivets I had to install :-).
I also agree with your statement that there is still a tremendous amount of
work the builder will still have to complete (51%?) and as we all know, finishing
is approx. 90% of the project.
>
> Inexperienced builders go QB....no way! Smart builders...YES!!!
>
> My two cents,
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A N174JL 180 hrs and FLYING!
> www.jacklockamy.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV7-List Digest
> Server
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 23:58
> To: RV7-List Digest List
> Subject: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/10/06
>
>
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-05-10.html
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-05-10.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV7-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 05/10/06: 1
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 08:00 AM - Re: Quick Build vs Custom Built ()
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: <wlull(at)cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Quick Build vs Custom Built
> Cc: Gandjpappy(at)aol.com
>
>
> Greg,
>
> It would seem you have answered your own question, reference your last sentence.
> It is a question of comfort. Having spent the last two plus years on a slow
> build I know my eye is critical enough now to evaluate a slow build for my comfort
> level. It seems in the ads I've seen that at least the seller sees additional
> value in factory quick builds as the asking price is generally higher.
>
>
> IMHO, if your new to building and in a hurry then the quick build is the way
to
> go. Just remember you still have a large portion to build yourself and you would
> be one of those "inexperienced builders". If you are experienced in building
> and just want a jump start on the next project I would look at slow build
> projects, carefully of course, for a better return on your investment.
>
> Good luck!!
>
> Bill
>
> RV 7A Canoe
> ---- Gandjpappy(at)aol.com wrote:
> > Here is what I think is different twist to an old question.
> >
> > I have investigated a couple of custom built kits that are at, or slightly
> > beyond the quick build stage. Would a kit put together by an inexperienced
>
> > builder be worth looking at if it included a couple thousand dollars worth
of
>
> > extras and cost about the same as a factory quick build? I keep thinking
that
>
> > I would be better off buying a new quick build kit with exactly what I
> > wanted even if it ended up costing a bit more.
> >
> > Opinions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Greg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rv7 project for sale |
| From: | flutewitch <flutewitch(at)cox.net> |
I have a real nice quick build RV-7 with tip up canopy project for sale.
Many extras ready for engine and avionics. I have been meticulous at
building what I have and it is real nice. It is also A & P built. I hate to
sell it but finances forces sale. If you would like to get in touch with me
drop me an e-mail at ncormier(at)cox.net and I will send you the particulars.
You can also check out my business web site at www.wildbirdxing.com and
click on the airplane to see a dozen pictures or so to give you an idea.
Bill Massachusetts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
Cc: "'Lockamy, Jack L'"
| Subject: | RE: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/10/06 |
I'm an inexperienced builder doing a slow build. I am on the fuse and for
me I know I'm glad I'm doing this versus the quickbuild. I feel I will be
much more qualified to inspect and maintain this airplane through my
experience. When I'm at the airport looking at flying RV's, I know I look
at every rivet now much differently than I did just 1 year ago. I *do* have
much appreciation for how much work that QB does for you, but for me, I'm
glad I will know what to do when my fuel tank leaks. I'm glad I will have
100% familiarity with every drawing in the plans.
Now if I should build another plane, I would likley do a quickbuild. There
would be less to learn on a second effort.
All this started because of cost discussions. I'd expect a real deal buying
an unfinished project like mine versus a QB, but I think this will be less
important for flying aircraft. At that point, I think flying hours, finish,
and equipment would start to be more impactful to price. (And I'll have
8-10K more in my pocket from which to negotiate.) In general, I try to
avoid money logic when it comes to airplanes. I'd rather keep my head in
the sand on that topic.
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http:\\donka.net\rv7project.html
******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wlull(at)cox.net
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 1:56 AM
Cc: Lockamy, Jack L
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RE: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/10/06
Yup, can't disagree. I did slow build for the 'educational opportunity' but
didn't realize it was going to be a doctorate degree! My point was that
even with a quick build we will have plenty of opportunity to make lots and
lots of mistakes.
I really really enjoy the building process, but, wings are so borrrring. I
would probably do a quick build too if I build another one. Although those
RV3s are really cute!
Bill
---- "Lockamy wrote:
> -->
>
> I think your statement would have been more correctly stated by
saying...."you would be one of those "SMART builders"... by going with a
Quickbuild rather than slow build...not an "inexperienced builder".
>
> My RV-7A kit (#71103) was a quickbuild and was my third aircraft. I'm no
expert but I'm also not a novice. I realized (as many others do) that going
with a Quickbuild kit is the only way to go! The cost difference in the big
scheme of things (about $8K extra for my wings and fuselage) was actually
well worth the extra money, saved lots of time at about $8 p/hr for foreign
labor by my calculations). I live alone and would have to have a
buddy/friend stop by and help me shoot most of those rivets if going slow
build. The workmanship of the QB kits is amazing! I nor any of my RV
buddies could find a single rivet not driven properly (I can't say the same
for those rivets I had to install :-). I also agree with your statement
that there is still a tremendous amount of work the builder will still have
to complete (51%?) and as we all know, finishing is approx. 90% of the
project.
>
> Inexperienced builders go QB....no way! Smart builders...YES!!!
>
> My two cents,
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A N174JL 180 hrs and FLYING!
> www.jacklockamy.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV7-List
> Digest Server
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 23:58
> To: RV7-List Digest List
> Subject: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/10/06
>
>
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
> Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes
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>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-05-10.ht
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> t
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV7-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 05/10/06: 1
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 08:00 AM - Re: Quick Build vs Custom Built ()
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: <wlull(at)cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Quick Build vs Custom Built
> Cc: Gandjpappy(at)aol.com
>
>
> Greg,
>
> It would seem you have answered your own question, reference your last
sentence.
> It is a question of comfort. Having spent the last two plus years on
> a slow build I know my eye is critical enough now to evaluate a slow
> build for my comfort level. It seems in the ads I've seen that at
> least the seller sees additional value in factory quick builds as the
asking price is generally higher.
>
>
> IMHO, if your new to building and in a hurry then the quick build is
> the way to go. Just remember you still have a large portion to build
> yourself and you would be one of those "inexperienced builders". If
> you are experienced in building and just want a jump start on the next
> project I would look at slow build projects, carefully of course, for a
better return on your investment.
>
> Good luck!!
>
> Bill
>
> RV 7A Canoe
> ---- Gandjpappy(at)aol.com wrote:
> > Here is what I think is different twist to an old question.
> >
> > I have investigated a couple of custom built kits that are at, or
> > slightly beyond the quick build stage. Would a kit put together by
> > an inexperienced
>
> > builder be worth looking at if it included a couple thousand dollars
> > worth of
>
> > extras and cost about the same as a factory quick build? I keep
> > thinking that
>
> > I would be better off buying a new quick build kit with exactly
> > what I wanted even if it ended up costing a bit more.
> >
> > Opinions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Greg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net> |
Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
good replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
part of the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually
used in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
together. The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie
flat on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
rivet. I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the rivet.
It was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
well where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet removal |
What ever works for you is the process you should use.
Press on.
Tad
N130TS RV7A
95 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: J. Brunke
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 8:16 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Rivet removal
Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
good replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
part of the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually
used in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
together. The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie
flat on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
rivet. I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the
rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
well where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
My brother-in-law (worked at Lockheed) showed me a trick that works pretty
well most of the time for flush rivets. You drill down deep enough that
you've probably drilled out most of the dimpled area, then you can stick a
spare drill bit into the cavity and pop the top of the rivet off. Then it's
easier to drill more accurately straight through the remaining shank without
enlarging the hole too much.
I also recently bought some oops rivets but I haven't used them yet. There
were a few spots on the tail where they would have been used...
Don
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 8:26 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Rivet removal
Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some good
replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes part of
the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually used
in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put together.
The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie flat
on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a rivet.
I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the rivet. It
was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work well
where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empanage fairings |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Hey all,
The little alu fairings that go under the empanage that are screwed to
the fuse upper angle.
The plans imply that you countersink through the fairing into the skin
and angle. As the fairing is only 25thou thick, the C/S will open up the
hole quite a bit. My tempatation is to dimple the holes for the #6
screws and then C/S the fuse underneath.
The probem is that the C/S would then have to be deeper and I'm a little
nervous of cutting a c/s too far into the angles as these are structural
elements.
What did others do?
Thanks
Frank
RV7a almost at the paint!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empanage fairings |
Tinnerman washers.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (907 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 1:30 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Empanage fairings
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> The little alu fairings that go under the empanage that are screwed to
> the fuse upper angle.
>
> The plans imply that you countersink through the fairing into the skin
> and angle. As the fairing is only 25thou thick, the C/S will open up the
> hole quite a bit. My tempatation is to dimple the holes for the #6
> screws and then C/S the fuse underneath.
>
> The probem is that the C/S would then have to be deeper and I'm a little
> nervous of cutting a c/s too far into the angles as these are structural
> elements.
>
> What did others do?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
> RV7a almost at the paint!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <flyer01(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Empanage fairings |
Cc: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
I used a #40 drill and dimpled the fairing and countersunk the skin/angle and riveted
it on.
---- "Hinde wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> The little alu fairings that go under the empanage that are screwed to
> the fuse upper angle.
>
> The plans imply that you countersink through the fairing into the skin
> and angle. As the fairing is only 25thou thick, the C/S will open up the
> hole quite a bit. My tempatation is to dimple the holes for the #6
> screws and then C/S the fuse underneath.
>
> The probem is that the C/S would then have to be deeper and I'm a little
> nervous of cutting a c/s too far into the angles as these are structural
> elements.
>
> What did others do?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
> RV7a almost at the paint!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empanage fairings |
My bad! I thought you meant the empennage fairing, the fiberglass one.
Pretty sure I dimpled the gap cover and c-sunk the fuselage. I'd be very
tempted to rivet it on, but then you can't change the rubber seal easily.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Empanage fairings
>
> Tinnerman washers.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (907 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 1:30 PM
> Subject: RV7-List: Empanage fairings
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> The little alu fairings that go under the empanage that are screwed to
>> the fuse upper angle.
>>
>> The plans imply that you countersink through the fairing into the skin
>> and angle. As the fairing is only 25thou thick, the C/S will open up the
>> hole quite a bit. My tempatation is to dimple the holes for the #6
>> screws and then C/S the fuse underneath.
>>
>> The probem is that the C/S would then have to be deeper and I'm a little
>> nervous of cutting a c/s too far into the angles as these are structural
>> elements.
>>
>> What did others do?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Frank
>>
>> RV7a almost at the paint!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowles" <schybolt(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Empanage fairings |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 3:30 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Empanage fairings
> --> RV7-List
I DID WHAT YOU DESCRIBE YESTERDAY. TAPPING LONGERONS TODAY. CAN'T SAY IT'S
RIGHT OR WRONG BUT I ALMOST THUNK IT TO DEATH. FINALLY HAD TO DO SOMETHING.
LARRY B.
7A, BUDA, TEXAS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empanage fairings |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Acually I did rivet it on and kinda forgot the rubber seal.
Thanks all the same...:)
Frank
Almost painting
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Empanage fairings
My bad! I thought you meant the empennage fairing, the fiberglass one.
Pretty sure I dimpled the gap cover and c-sunk the fuselage. I'd be
very tempted to rivet it on, but then you can't change the rubber seal
easily.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Empanage fairings
>
> Tinnerman washers.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (907 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 1:30 PM
> Subject: RV7-List: Empanage fairings
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> The little alu fairings that go under the empanage that are screwed
to
>> the fuse upper angle.
>>
>> The plans imply that you countersink through the fairing into the
skin
>> and angle. As the fairing is only 25thou thick, the C/S will open up
the
>> hole quite a bit. My tempatation is to dimple the holes for the #6
>> screws and then C/S the fuse underneath.
>>
>> The probem is that the C/S would then have to be deeper and I'm a
little
>> nervous of cutting a c/s too far into the angles as these are
structural
>> elements.
>>
>> What did others do?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Frank
>>
>> RV7a almost at the paint!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott" <scott(at)randolphs.net> |
| Subject: | KMA-24 audio panel installation |
Does anybody have the pinouts and/or installation manual for a Bendix/King
KMA-24 audio panel?
I need to figure out how to interface it with my intercom and radios. I've
heard it might need a speaker load as well, but that seems questionable to
me.
Thanks!
Scott.
N30DD
scott@randolphs net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts, so if I want 5pt system, when I
should be worrying about installing the brackets for 5pt? I'm working on
fuse bulkheads now...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness |
Don,
Your life will be a lot easier if you have the actual belts in hand when
fitting the brackets. I found that following Van's instructions with
their crotch strap kit did not properly fit the Hooker harnesses I
purchased. Re-working this installation is a bear and can be avoided by
having everything at the start......
Regards,
Joe
Don Hall wrote:
>
>I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts, so if I want 5pt system, when I
>should be worrying about installing the brackets for 5pt? I'm working on
>fuse bulkheads now...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness |
Yes, the 5-point bracket is much easier to install before you get everything
else finished. Wiring comes to mind here. I almost did not install the
5-point bracket due to my wiring had to be moved to make room. Also,
standing almost on your head while putting it in with the cockpit already
done makes you want to go on diet. And age could be a factor too. At 63 I
am not as flexible as once was. But I got it done just the same. My friend
installed his early on and it was a much simpler task.
Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
>
> I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts, so if I want 5pt system, when
> I
> should be worrying about installing the brackets for 5pt? I'm working
> on
> fuse bulkheads now...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 5 point harness.NOW |
Don
Now!
Once the fuse is flipped I insatlled the brackets.
I am sure it could have been done during the mid fuse fabrication.
Frank @ SGU and SLC finish / canopy work underway
>From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV7-List: 5 point harness
>Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 00:29:43 -0400
>
>
>I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts, so if I want 5pt system, when I
>should be worrying about installing the brackets for 5pt? I'm working
>on
>fuse bulkheads now...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness |
Just my experience, I too use the Hooker harness with my 5-point and did
just a bit of filing on the harness to get an easier slip in fit. I did not
have to rework anything with the Van's bracket installation. But, it is a
tight fit and I guess that is better than one that is loose. I installed
mine about 2 years ago and maybe something has changed with the bracket or
the belt since then. Having the belts beforehand could help ensure a
trouble free install. You just need pick the color and come up with the
money sooner.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
> Don,
>
> Your life will be a lot easier if you have the actual belts in hand when
> fitting the brackets. I found that following Van's instructions with
> their crotch strap kit did not properly fit the Hooker harnesses I
> purchased. Re-working this installation is a bear and can be avoided by
> having everything at the start......
>
> Regards,
>
> Joe
>
> Don Hall wrote:
>
>>
>>I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts, so if I want 5pt system, when
>>I
>>should be worrying about installing the brackets for 5pt? I'm working
>>on
>>fuse bulkheads now...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness |
If you go with the Hooker Harness, don't just blindly follow Vans
plans. I believe that Vans calls for an AN5 bolt but the HH takes
an AN4 sized bolt. If memory works.
And the earlier you can get this in, the better.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Hey Walter....After I had all my cushions upholstered I realised that
you need to cut a hole in the seat cushion for the ball crusher strap to
pass through...I.e it does not go thru the stick slot, you need to cut
another hole is that correct?
Thanks
Frank
RV7a...So close to painting I can smell the cyanide!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: 5 point harness
If you go with the Hooker Harness, don't just blindly follow Vans plans.
I believe that Vans calls for an AN5 bolt but the HH takes an AN4 sized
bolt. If memory works.
And the earlier you can get this in, the better.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness |
On 05/22 7:42, Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote:
> Hey Walter....After I had all my cushions upholstered I realised that
> you need to cut a hole in the seat cushion for the ball crusher strap to
> pass through...I.e it does not go thru the stick slot, you need to cut
> another hole is that correct?
That's correct. A slot needs to be cut in the seat bottom for the
ball crusher.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics BBS Forums |
Hello Listers,
I just wanted to send out a reminder to all of the Listers regarding the new-ish
BBS (Bulletin Board System) Forums that are available at Matronics for the Email
Lists. The BBS Forums give you Web-based access into the same email content
that is generated by the Email Lists. When an email message is posted to
any of the email lists, a copy of the message is also copied to the respective
List forum section on in the BBS Forums. By the same token, when a message is
posted within the BBS Forum interface context, it will also be posted to the
respective email list.
Basically, the BBS Forums give you yet another method of accessing the Matronics
Email List content. Some people prefer email, some prefer web forums; now you
can have it either way or both with the Matronics Lists!
You'll have to register for a login/password on the BBS Forum to _post_ from the
BBS, but you can view message content without registering for an account. To
Register for an account, look for the link at the top of the main BBS Forum
page entitled "Register". Click on it and follow the instructions. Site Administrator
approval will be required (to keep spammers out), but I will try to
get these approved in less than 24 hours.
If you haven't yet taken a look at the Matronics Email List content over on the
BBS Forum, surf on over and take a peek. Its pretty cool. The URL is:
http://forums.matronics.com
I want to stress that the BBS Forums are simply an adjunct to the existing Matronics
Email Lists; another way of viewing and interacting with the Matronics List
content. If you like Email, great. If you like Web Forums, great. If you
like both, great. Its up to you how you view and create your content.
You will also find a URL link at the bottom of this email called Matronics List
Features Navigator. You can click on this link at any time to find URL links
to all of the other great features available on the Matronics site like the Archive
Search Engine, List Browse, List Download, FAQs, Wiki, and lots more.
There is a specific Navigator for each Email List and the link for this specific
List is shown below.
Thanks for all the great list participation and support; it is greatly appreciated!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness |
Can someone scan a copy of Van's Crotch Strap Instructions for an RV7A (pdf) to
me to review?
Darrell
"Joseph F. Giallo, II" wrote:
Don,
Your life will be a lot easier if you have the actual belts in hand when
fitting the brackets. I found that following Van's instructions with
their crotch strap kit did not properly fit the Hooker harnesses I
purchased. Re-working this installation is a bear and can be avoided by
having everything at the start......
Regards,
Joe
Don Hall wrote:
>
>I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts, so if I want 5pt system, when I
>should be worrying about installing the brackets for 5pt? I'm working on
>fuse bulkheads now...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
begin:vcard
fn:Joseph Giallo
n:Giallo;Joseph
org:North Carolina State University and the University of North Carolina at Chapel
Hill;Joint Department of Biomedical Engineering
email;internet:jgiallo(at)mindspring.com
title:Graduate Research Assistant
tel;cell:919-608-1975
=0A
Joe Giallo=0A
Graduate Research Assistant=0A
Joint Department of Biomedical Engineering at North Carolina State Univer
sity and the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill=0A
mobile: 919-608-1975=0A
version:2.1
end:vcard
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davcor(at)comcast.net |
Cc: Darrell Reiley
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness |
Hi, this is very timely, please copy me too as I've just about finished the rear
(706-712) and start on the center section when I get home Friday.
Thanks
Dave Cordner
N898DC - (rsvd)
Fuse
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Can someone scan a copy of Van's Crotch Strap Instructions for an RV7A (pdf) to
me to review?
Darrell
"Joseph F. Giallo, II" wrote:
Don,
Your life will be a lot easier if you have the actual belts in hand when
fitting the brackets. I found that following Van's instructions with
their crotch strap kit did not properly fit the Hooker harnesses I
purchased. Re-working this installation is a bear and can be avoided by
having everything at the start......
Regards,
Joe
Don Hall wrote:
>
>I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts, so if I want 5pt system, when I
>should be worrying about installing the brackets for 5pt? I'm working on
>fuse bulkheads now...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
begin:vcard
fn:Joseph Giallo
n:Giallo;Joseph
org:North Carolina State University and the University of North Carolina at Chapel
Hill;Joint Department of Biomedical Engineering
email;internet:jgiallo(at)mindspring.com
title:Graduate Research Assistant
tel;cell:919-608-1975
=0A
Joe Giallo=0A
Graduate Research Assistant=0A
Joint Department of Biomedical Engineering at North Carolina State Univer
sity and the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill=0A
mobile: 919-608-1975=0A
version:2.1
end:vcard
Hi, this is very timely, please copy me too as I've just about finished the
rear (706-712) and start on the center section when I get home Friday.
Thanks
Dave Cordner
N898DC - (rsvd)
Fuse
Can someone scan a copy of Van's Crotch Strap Instructions for an RV7A (pdf)
to me to review?
Darrell
"Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
wrote:
Don,
Your life will be a lot easier if you have the
actual belts in hand when
fitting the brackets. I found that following
Van's instructions with
their crotch strap kit did not properly fit the Hooker
harnesses I
purchased. Re-working this installation is a bear and can
be avoided by
having everything at the start......
Regards,
Joe
Don
Hall wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Don
Hall"
>
>I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts,
so if I want 5pt system, when I
>should be worrying about installing
the brackets for 5pt? I'm working on
>fuse bulkheads now...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
begin:vcard
fn:Joseph
Giallo
n:Giallo;Joseph
org:North Car
olina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness |
Dave,
Due to no replies regarding an Instruction Sheet from Van's on the Crotch Strap
installation I'm starting to think there are no such instructions offered from
Van's.
If I come up with something it will be forwarded to you.
Darrell
davcor(at)comcast.net wrote:
Hi, this is very timely, please copy me too as I've just about finished the
rear (706-712) and start on the center section when I get home Friday.
Thanks
Dave Cordner
N898DC - (rsvd)
Fuse
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Can someone scan a copy of Van's Crotch Strap Instructions for an RV7A (pdf)
to me to review?
Darrell
"Joseph F. Giallo, II" wrote:
Don,
Your life will be a lot easier if you have the actual belts in hand when
fitting the brackets. I found that following Van's instructions with
their crotch strap kit did not properly fit the Hooker harnesses I
purchased. Re-working this installation is a bear and can be avoided by
having everything at the start......
Regards,
Joe
Don Hall wrote:
>
>I think Van's only pushes 4pt safety belts, so if I want 5pt system, when I
>should be worrying about installing the brackets for 5pt? I'm working on
>fuse bulkheads now...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
begin:vcard
fn:Joseph Giallo
n:Giallo;Joseph
org:North Car olina State University and the University of North Carolina at Chapel
Hill;Joint Department of Biomedical Engineering
email;internet:jgiallo(at)mindspring.com
title:Graduate Research Assistant
tel;cell:919-608-1975
=0A
Joe Giallo=0A
Graduate Research Assistant=0A
Joint Department of Biomedical Engineering at North Carolina State Univer
sity and the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill=0A
mobile: 919-608-1975=0A
version:2.1
end:vcard
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Two New Email Lists at Matronics and Wiki Reminder! |
Dear Listers,
I have added two new email Lists to the Matronics Line up today. These include
a Continental engine List and a Lightning aircraft List:
===========
continental-list(at)matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Continental-List
Everything related to the Continental aircraft engine. Sky's the limit on discussions
here.
===========
===========
lightning-list(at)matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Lightning-List
This is an exciting new design from Arion Aircraft LLC in Shelbyville Tennessee. Pete Krotje has a very nice web site on the aircraft that can be found here: http://www.arionaircraft.com/
===========
Also, if you haven't checked out the new Matronics Aircraft Wiki, swing by and
have a look. Remember, a Wiki is only as good as the content that the members
put into it. Have a look over some of the sections, and if you've got some interesting
or useful, please add it to the Wiki! Its all about YOU! :-) The
URL for the Matronics Wiki is:
http://wiki.matronics.com
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed clegg" <edwclg(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | heat box control |
Dose anyone remember a fella who controlled his heat box with a model
airplane servo.
I would like to pursue this a little if he could be found
Thanks,
Ed Clegg
edwclg(at)adelphia.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <i.perry(at)lipogen.co.il> |
Hi All!
If anyone use IE385 FUEL SENDER for Vans fuel gage and Dynon EMS -D10,
working together?
Thanks Ilan Perry.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
Lots of choices for engines these days. For those of you who went with
180/200hp IO-360 or 160hp IO-320, would you be swayed by these choices?
Superior has IO-400, 210hp. Based on angle-valve 360. Hmmm. 200hp was
tempting, but maybe 210 really softens the extra weight/hp argument?
ECI now offers an IOX-340, 185hp, based on 320 block. Hmmm. About same
power as the venerable IO-360, but lighter and less thirsty...
Yeah, prices might not favor either choice versus the common 360 or 320.
But when your trying to catch your buddies, do you still think about that?
My wallet and my machismo will battle for a while on that one.
Hope this isn't a war-starting subject. I respect the wisdom on this list.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
Please recommend a source for customizable RV patches (for a flight suit)...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Options |
Don't forget the IO-390-X, which is an angle valve 210hp variant produced by
Lycoming. Brand new, it's cheaper than its IO-360-A1* 200hp descendant.
I personally would like to see more fleet time on some of these new designs
before I would hang one on my plane. But that's just me. I'm also
skeptical of roller tappets that everybody is going ga-ga over. I won't
argue against the theoretical benefit, but I want to see more fleet time on
'em before I buy into it in practice. Call me conservative.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (924 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 5:05 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Engine Options
>
> Lots of choices for engines these days. For those of you who went with
> 180/200hp IO-360 or 160hp IO-320, would you be swayed by these choices?
>
> Superior has IO-400, 210hp. Based on angle-valve 360. Hmmm. 200hp was
> tempting, but maybe 210 really softens the extra weight/hp argument?
> ECI now offers an IOX-340, 185hp, based on 320 block. Hmmm. About same
> power as the venerable IO-360, but lighter and less thirsty...
>
> Yeah, prices might not favor either choice versus the common 360 or 320.
> But when your trying to catch your buddies, do you still think about that?
> My wallet and my machismo will battle for a while on that one.
>
> Hope this isn't a war-starting subject. I respect the wisdom on this
> list.
>
> Don
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Farner" <sfarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Options |
One additional thing to think about with the newer engines like the IO-390
and probably the IOX-340 is the greater amount of tinkering required with
the firewall forward setup over the I/O-360 and -320. There's not a whole
lot of documentation out there yet on these engines. I've spent quite a bit
of time scratching my head trying to figure out how to get things to fit
(baffles, prop gov. cable, alternator bracket, etc.), plus the added time of
fabricating new or modifying existing parts. Is it worth it? I'll see in a
few months.
Scott
IO-390 RV-7A - Thinking about the big move to the airport.
www.scottfarner.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Enclosure Support |
Dear Listers,
Over the years, I have resisted the urge to enable enclosure support on the Matronics
Lists for a number of reasons relating to performance, capacity, capability,
and security. However, its now 2006 and most everyone using email these
days is on an email client that, at some level, supports the viewing and handling
of enclosures. I get a fair amount of email each month from people on the
various Lists asking why their posts of this or that picture didn't go through.
Back quite a while ago by popular request, I enabled enclosure support for a few
Lists such as the RV10-List, Kolb-List, and the Tailwind-List. Contrary to
my fears, there really hasn't been any significant issues on these Lists relating
to the advent of enclosure support and for the most part, members have policed
themselves well with respect to the size of things they have posted.
Having enclosures enabled on some Lists and not others has given me a fair amount
of headaches with respect to filtering messages and content since the formats
are often quite different between a typical MIME encoded message and a generic
plain-text message. The spammers are getting more cleaver all the time and
are constantly trying to thwart my best efforts at keeping them from posting
to the Lists.
So, for these reasons, I've have decided to go ahead and enable limited enclosure
posting on all of the email Lists at Matronics. This will not only increase
the utility of the Lists, but will afford me a better opportunity to filter
out the chaff.
Here are some of the features and limits of enclosures on the Matronics Lists:
1) Enclosures will only be posted to the Real Time version of the
Lists.
2) Enclosures will NOT be included in the Daily Digest version of
the Lists.
3) Enclosures WILL BE forwarded on to the BBS Forum Web site.
4) Enclosures will NOT be appended to the Archives.
5) Enclosures will NOT be available in the List Browse feature.
6) Only the following file types and extensions will be allowed:
jpg, bmp, gif, txt, xls, pdf, and doc
All other enclosures types will be rejected and email returned to
sender. The enclosure types listed above are relatively safe from
a virus standpoint and don't pose a particularly large security risk.
7) !! All incoming enclosures will be scanned for viruses prior to posting
to the List. This is done in real time and will not slow down
the process of posting the message !!
Here are some rules for posting enclosures. Failure to abide by these rules could
result in the removal of a subscriber's email address from the Lists.
1) Pay attention to what you are posting!! Make sure that the files
you are enclosing aren't HUGE (greater that 1MB). Remember that there
are still people checking they're email via dial up modem. If you post
30MB worth of pictures, you are placing an unnecessary burden on these
folks and the rest of us, for that matter.
2) SCALE YOUR PICTURES DOWN!!! I don't want to see huge 3000 x 2000
pictures getting posted that are 3 or 4MB each. This is just
unacceptable. Use a program such as Photoshop to scale the picture
down to something on the order of 800 x 600 and try to keep the
file size to less-than 200KB, preferably much less.
Microsoft has a really awesome utility available for free that allows
you to Right-Click on a picture in Explorer and automatically
scale it down and resave it. This is a great utility - get it, use it!
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
Look for the link "Image Resizer"
3) !! This would seem to go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Do not
post anything that would be considered offensive by your grandmother.
And you know what I'm saying; I don't want to see anything even
questionable. !!
4) REMEMBER THIS: If you post a 1MB enclosure to a List with 1000 members
subscribed, your 1MB enclosure must be resent 1000 times amounting
to 1MB X 1000 = 1 Gigabyte of network traffic!! BE CAREFUL and BE COURTEOUS!
I hope everyone will enjoy the added functionality of enclosures. Please police
yourself and use good judgement when posting messages with enclosures using
the guidelines I've outlined above.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eli and Yaffa <eliandyaffa(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/04/06 |
Please take me off this listing
Thank you
Eli Liebermann
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV7-List Digest
Server
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 2:58 AM
Subject: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/04/06
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-06-04.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-06-04.txt
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV7-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sun 06/04/06: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting...A novice paints! |
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
Want to hear what I did to start painting the RV...I have now finished
the tail feathers complete with trim paint. See below.
Frank
>From one rookie painter to another...it is a lot easier than I thought
it would be.
Buy two 20 ounce HF guns...1) gravity feed gun (it is NOT an HVLP gun
and is sometimes on sale for $15...Piece of crap but works great for
primer. Under no circumstances use this for top coat.
2) HVLP HF gun (looks the same but it is a true HVLP and is sometimes on
sale for $40).
If it was on sale I would also buy the touch up gun regular prce around
$60...So sweet for little jobs. Right now I still have my friend's touch
up gun.
Its hard to describe the difference between these guns until you use
each one...Needless to say the primer gun will absolutly ruin your paint
job if you use it for top coat. You will spend close to $1000 on
paint...Needless to say the guns are dirt cheap in comparison.
Primer...piece of cake.
Top coat...Thin the paint a little more than it says on the can. Buy a
pint of cheap (er) white paint...Tell the guy you want to practice.
Put 50psi on the gun while the trigger is pulled...i.e the running
pressure, even thoguh HF say use like 28psi...You'll thank me later!
Setup the gun to make the classic cigar shape...you point the gun at the
wall and and pull and let go of the trigger without moviing the
gun...You should get the classic ciger shape...You can adjust the width
of the fan and how much paint is sprayed. The site www.hotrodders.com
will show you the correct pattern.
Hold the gun pfectly perpenduclar to the surface...never swing the gun.
Start with the paint spraying before you get to the panel...and keeep
the gun at 6 to 8" from the surface. The speed of travel will be
surprisingly slow.
Now to practice, get an old metal shelf, propane cylinder, neighbour's
car...anything you don't care about and can prop up vertically.
Here's the deal...If you travel the gun too fast you will get a dry
spray that will sit on the surface, i.e it won't flow...This is called
orange peel.
If you go too slow it will run...Actually its hard to make it run
unless....You can't see it porperly..This is where you need a LOT of
light at an angle to the surface...best light is outside but you need to
make a tent with a filtered supply and extract system....If its not a
windy day I guess you could build one outside with clear visqueen...Good
luck!
I got runs on my wheelpants in a couple of places because at the last
minute I moved the fuse out of the shop and the remaining area (where I
painted the pants) was dimly lit....Home Depot and Shop lights! Are two
terms that should be used in the same sentence!...Have one overhead and
one screwed to the wall to shine at the same horizontal surface.
Avoid the temptation to try to "dust in the paint"...it won't work. It
has to be put on as a full wet coat...You probably have half a minute
where you could add to the run where maybe it got a bit thin but nore
longer as it will sit on top of the old paint. This is why doing very
deliberate runs with proper overlap on a large surface is paramount to
avoid orangepeel.
Always rig your control surfaces horizontally...This is an absolute pain
in the a..! It took me about 3 hours to rig the flaps, ailerons,
elevators and empanage this way...And you want to be able to flip them
over and both sides at the same time..."Why?" you ask?...Remember how
the paint won't flow together unless its wet?...thats why both sides
need to be wet or you will get a seam where the two paint sessions join
together....Remember you can't touch the surface when its painted...:).
Put one coat on the top surface, flip over botoom surface and flip back
to the top for the second coat...Should leave about 10 minutes for the
second coat...So might want to do two elavators...I.e one coat on each
and then your 10 mins will be up....Flip so that bottom side is UP...You
will get some dust, best to be where no one will see it.
The obvious question is...well I have to paint the fuse vertically so
why go to the trouble of rigging the control surfaces as above...good
point and it comes down to risk...I.e it is impossible to get a run on a
horizontal surface (except at the edges). If you get a run you
can(apparently...i did it once) have a paper towel and laquer thinner
and real wet slop the run off and repaint.
Little scary but it did work when I tried it...Otherwise you got to wait
till it dries and wet sand it out and polish. Remember you can't dust in
a little paint and the hard paint is like bomb proof!...A hell of a lot
of work to sand and buff runs out!...So the work of rigging horizontally
is worth it to reduce the risk of runs.
When painting vertically spray a tack coat and wait 10 minutes....just a
light skim...move gun fast. This will enable the wet coat to stick much
better...When you practice on the propane tank don't apply a tack coat
and see how hard it is to make it run.
Runs really only happen when you put multiple wet coats on...like on a
wheel pant facing nose down...it tapers going to the top...So, if you
can't see well, you do it in vertical stripes...but it gets narrower
going towards the top so guess what happens, you keep going over and
over the narrow part...DOH!
Anyway, there it is FWIW.
Compressor...Mine is oil free...You will get fish eyes if there is ANY
oil in your air supply...Speaking of which I made my own fresh air
breathing system....put these terms together...Respirator (WITH
pesticide filter, which is organic vapour and particulate), OIL
FREE!!!!!!!! air compressor,...Tee in a air hose...Works great and saves
$400 for a Hobby air.
Sounds like a lot to take in but I picked it up pretty quickly with no
one looking over my shoulder.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Does anyone have the specs for this engine? If this
engine is built on a Lycoming 320 platform I would
like to review the specs. Mahlon, please chime in...
What makes this engine rated at 390 cubes?
Darrell
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Options |
Dear Listers,
When constructing the rudder halves together, it is advised to use Proseal
or the tank sealant to initially join the aft part of both skins.
Could you also use West's systems epoxy to do the job? Seems like you just
want something that will provide some initial holding power.
Would appreciate some advise.
Thanks in advance,
John Brunke
"slowly but surely"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Options |
You want to use a product that remains flexible. Expoxy is quite brittle
and will probably crack and may cause problems down the road. Use what
Van's recommends they have the best know-how.
J. Brunke wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> When constructing the rudder halves together, it is advised to use
> Proseal or the tank sealant to initially join the aft part of both skins.
>
> Could you also use West's systems epoxy to do the job? Seems like you
> just want something that will provide some initial holding power.
>
> Would appreciate some advise.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Brunke
> "slowly but surely"
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Options |
I used West Epoxy system to glue the halves together. I asked Van's and it
does not matter what you use. Use nothing if you like it just makes it
easier to create a bond along the length of the rudder. All of those rivets
will hold together just fine. As for cracking down the road, not an issue.
TS 7A 110hours
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2006 11:27 PM
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> When constructing the rudder halves together, it is advised to use Proseal
> or the tank sealant to initially join the aft part of both skins.
>
> Could you also use West's systems epoxy to do the job? Seems like you
just
> want something that will provide some initial holding power.
>
> Would appreciate some advise.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Brunke
> "slowly but surely"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
THIS IS NOT "SPAM", but comes from 600+ hours of
research I did while building my RV-8A.
------------------------------------------------------------
SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time that
can be better spent "building your project", by using
the comprehensive
"Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum and
Composite Aircraft" (In 3rd printing)
Contains 66 pages of the latest, practical information
- summarized and gathered from MIL Standards, Paint
Shops, Builders like you (what worked or didn't),
Airframe Mfgs, etc. Covers products from - PP&G,
Dupont, Sherwin W'ms, Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft,
Randolph Paints, PRC De Soto, US Paints, Aircraft
Finishing Systems, 3M, etc.
Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
* Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints
* Corrosion Control
* Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
* Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
Aluminum and Steel
* Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL & Commercial,
Solvent & Water
Reducible
* Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
* Other Primers - Zinc Chromate, Zinc Oxide,
Enamel
* Paint Types : MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes,
Enamel
* Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
* Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using &
painting problems
* Brushes / Rollers used with Primers & Paints
* Selecting a Paint Shop
* 3M Cleaning Pads & Cleaners
* Paint Booths and their Construction
* References - MIL Standard & Tech Orders
* Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distributors
- phone numbers, E-
Mail addresses, Application Notes
YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's "Paint Job", so have
the latest "Information" in order to make good
decisions. Contains "Do's" and "Don'ts" that save you
time, $$$ and frustration.
Send check for $26 (includes postage within US) to:
Garey Wittich
58 Village Pkwy
Santa Monica, CA. 90405
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joelrhaynes(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: N557XW Flies |
I have the standard Positech cooler and Van's standard firewall forward kit setup.
This morning I re-examined my baffles and found a number of little gaps where
additional high temp RTV sealant would likely be useful so I plugged them
up. I will also cover over my cabin heat take-off with duct tape for the second
flight to see what that will do. Calibrating the oil temp probe with boiling
water is a great idea as suggested by another lister. I do have a little room
to raise the position of my oil cooler if that is necessary later on. Also,
I've learned that opening the lower cowl exit some more might be useful. Second
flight will be Friday morning after the RTV cures. Thanks to everyone for
all the online and offline congrats and advice.
Joel Haynes
7A 0.5 hours
> Congratulations, Joel - isn't it a great feeling?! Regarding the cooling -
I have
> an 0-360 in my recently completed RV6 - operating in the warmth of Western
> Australia. I'm not having any oil cooling problems at the moment - rather the
> opposite! I installed a larger oil cooler than standard because I expected
to
> be operating in high temps. Now that winter is here I've had to tape over about
> a third of the cooler to keep temps in the green. What size oil cooler have
> you installed?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | RE: N557XW Flies |
I concur on the calibration of the oil probe. i did this and discoverd
that Dynon had calibrated their engine monitors to a different range. It
may be that the spec sheet for the probe was different to the actual
sensors who knows?
All the Dynon's now have a software fix for this. Maybe that other EFI
manufacturers made the same assumption.
My temp probe read 20deg F too high....Glad I found this.
Congrats...I'm about 2/3rds thru painting and I'll be into fianl
assembly at the hangar
Frak
RV7a...My Zodiac sold last week...Just in time...:)
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
joelrhaynes(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 11:14 AM
I have the standard Positech cooler and Van's standard firewall forward
kit setup. This morning I re-examined my baffles and found a number of
little gaps where additional high temp RTV sealant would likely be
useful so I plugged them up. I will also cover over my cabin heat
take-off with duct tape for the second flight to see what that will do.
Calibrating the oil temp probe with boiling water is a great idea as
suggested by another lister. I do have a little room to raise the
position of my oil cooler if that is necessary later on. Also, I've
learned that opening the lower cowl exit some more might be useful.
Second flight will be Friday morning after the RTV cures. Thanks to
everyone for all the online and offline congrats and advice.
Joel Haynes
7A 0.5 hours
> Congratulations, Joel - isn't it a great feeling?! Regarding the
cooling - I have
> an 0-360 in my recently completed RV6 - operating in the warmth of
Western
> Australia. I'm not having any oil cooling problems at the moment -
rather the
> opposite! I installed a larger oil cooler than standard because I
expected to
> be operating in high temps. Now that winter is here I've had to tape
over about
> a third of the cooler to keep temps in the green. What size oil
cooler have
> you installed?
________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: N557XW Flies |
Congrats on the flight. I would pay attention to the temps but not
make large changes till 25-30 hours or your confident the break-in has
occurred. Normal CHT s may not happen till 50 or more hours even though
the oil usage may subside. If you oil temps are high calibrate the
probes is warm oil not water. Cruise flight oil temps for me are 190
and the cooler is on the back of the #4
Tad Sargent
N130TS
----- Original Message -----
From: joelrhaynes(at)aol.com
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 2:13 PM
Subject: RV7-List: RE: N557XW Flies
I have the standard Positech cooler and Van's standard firewall
forward kit setup. This morning I re-examined my baffles and found a
number of little gaps where additional high temp RTV sealant would
likely be useful so I plugged them up. I will also cover over my cabin
heat take-off with duct tape for the second flight to see what that will
do. Calibrating the oil temp probe with boiling water is a great idea as
suggested by another lister. I do have a little room to raise the
position of my oil cooler if that is necessary later on. Also, I've
learned that opening the lower cowl exit some more might be useful.
Second flight will be Friday morning after the RTV cures. Thanks to
everyone for all the online and offline congrats and advice.
Joel Haynes
7A 0.5 hours
> Congratulations, Joel - isn't it a great feeling?! Regarding the
cooling - I have
> an 0-360 in my recently completed RV6 - operating in the warmth of
Western
> Australia. I'm not having any oil cooling problems at the moment -
rather the
> opposite! I installed a larger oil cooler than standard because I
expected to
> be operating in high temps. Now that winter is here I've had to
tape over about
> a third of the cooler to keep temps in the green. What size oil
cooler have
> you installed?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joelrhaynes(at)aol.com |
Thanks again to all who responded on and off-line with congrats and advice regarding
my first flight and somewhat higher temps than hoped for. I got out the
high temp RTV and plugged a few small gaps here and there in my baffles and opened
the lower cowl exit area a bit more as others have done. Second flight
was this morning after the RTV cured. Full power CHTs at 6500 feet (field elevation
is 5000 ft) were 380-390 which was a nice improvement over yesterday. Also,
oil temp was 217. This is still likely an overestimate since I need to update
the firmware in my Dynon engine monitor to fix a bug causing artificially
high oil temps. Thanks again to whoever it was that pointed that out to me.
Without wheel pants and fairings I could only get 2550 rpm at 6500 feet with my
85 inch pitch Sensenich cruise prop. I am assuming that pants and fairings
will allow for greater rpms as the speed increases. I certainly cannot complain
about takeoff performance, even from our high alti
tude airport. Now onto fixing the slightly heavy left wing.
WHAT A RIDE!!!
Joel Haynes
7A 1.5 hours
Bozeman
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | fuselage center, f-623 rib question |
Greetings, those who have gone before,
I'm clecoing the mid section bottom skin to the seat & baggage ribs,
trying to interpret the drawings on dwg22 (view C-C).
My F623L & R ribs have a joggle on the outside vertical flange where it
meets the F705 bulkhead. The joggle seems intended to allow a rivet to
tie the side skin, f705 bulkhead & the outside flange of the F623
together. However, view C-C (side view of this point) seems to show the
F623 rib being cut off just short of the F705 bulkhead flange. If I cut
nothing, I'll have a joggle in the bottom skin (obviously wrong). If I
cut as shown in view C-C, I'm cutting off a joggle in the flange that
Van's went to the trouble of adding to the rib.
My 1st thought is to cut the inside flange & horizontal surface of the
F623 & leave the joggled tab for riveting to F705. Should I do something
different?
Bonus question1: The instructions say to cut a 1 1/2" hole in one of the
baggage ribs if you intend to add a step. Is there any harm in cutting
this hole if no step is planned? (grams add up to ounces add up to
pounds....)
Bonus question2: Any harm in enlarging the back tooling holes in the
seat ribs to 5/8", like the front ones? (possible future wiring path, if
needed)
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuselage center, f-623 rib question |
Charlie I can answer Bonus question 1. No step installed, no holed be
drilled. Weight is not that big of a deal if you install a 360CID Lycoming.
Bonus question 2. Yes enlarge the holes. It is amazing how much wiring
space is needed. Add this up. Manual trim cable, Tail strobe and Nav
light. Then if you put the ELT or Altitude hold.
As for the flange recheck the instruction or call Van's for help before you
cut anything off.
RV7A
TS "Stripes"
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 3:21 PM
>
> Greetings, those who have gone before,
>
> I'm clecoing the mid section bottom skin to the seat & baggage ribs,
> trying to interpret the drawings on dwg22 (view C-C).
>
> My F623L & R ribs have a joggle on the outside vertical flange where it
> meets the F705 bulkhead. The joggle seems intended to allow a rivet to
> tie the side skin, f705 bulkhead & the outside flange of the F623
> together. However, view C-C (side view of this point) seems to show the
> F623 rib being cut off just short of the F705 bulkhead flange. If I cut
> nothing, I'll have a joggle in the bottom skin (obviously wrong). If I
> cut as shown in view C-C, I'm cutting off a joggle in the flange that
> Van's went to the trouble of adding to the rib.
>
> My 1st thought is to cut the inside flange & horizontal surface of the
> F623 & leave the joggled tab for riveting to F705. Should I do something
> different?
>
> Bonus question1: The instructions say to cut a 1 1/2" hole in one of the
> baggage ribs if you intend to add a step. Is there any harm in cutting
> this hole if no step is planned? (grams add up to ounces add up to
> pounds....)
>
> Bonus question2: Any harm in enlarging the back tooling holes in the
> seat ribs to 5/8", like the front ones? (possible future wiring path, if
> needed)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Turtle deck painting color |
Are these lists still working? No messages for over seven days??? And
essentially nothing for over two weeks???
Dick Tasker
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Turtle deck painting color |
Dick I have sparsley had a day without at least one email. Do you have any
pictures of your project you could share?
N130TS
Tad Sargent "Stripes"
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 11:35 PM
>
> Are these lists still working? No messages for over seven days??? And
> essentially nothing for over two weeks???
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> --
> Please Note:
> No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede,
however,
> that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily
inconvenienced.
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
My wife and I are working on the Wings on the RV-7A right now and the wife
would really like a ride in an RV. Anyone with a 7 or 7A at OSH willing to
accommodate a ride for me then for the wife at OSH? Weather and show
permitting of course.
Fuel costs will be covered
Scott R. Shook - P6254
Deputy Commander
Maricopa County Sheriff's Office
Enforcement Support Posse
602/740-0785
sshook@mcso-esp.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | R Y <cvn_21(at)yahoo.com> |
WHAT A SHNOOK
Where the hell is Maricopa County? Ain't that around here somewhere?
lron
"Scott R. Shook" wrote:
My wife and I are working on the Wings on the RV-7A right now and the wife
would really like a ride in an RV. Anyone with a 7 or 7A at OSH willing to
accommodate a ride for me then for the wife at OSH? Weather and show permitting
of course.
Fuel costs will be covered
Scott R. Shook - P6254
Deputy Commander
Maricopa County Sheriff's Office
Enforcement Support Posse
602/740-0785
sshook@mcso-esp.org
---------------------------------
See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com. Check it out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
My bad, I left my signature block on my question to the group
FWIW - Maricopa County is in Phoenix, Arizona
Scott & Jenni
RV-7A N696JS
Working on the Wings
_____
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R Y
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 14:01
WHAT A SHNOOK
Where the hell is Maricopa County? Ain't that around here somewhere?
lron
"Scott R. Shook" wrote:
My wife and I are working on the Wings on the RV-7A right now and the wife
would really like a ride in an RV. Anyone with a 7 or 7A at OSH willing to
accommodate a ride for me then for the wife at OSH? Weather and show
permitting of course.
Fuel costs will be covered
Scott R. Shook - P6254
Deputy Commander
Maricopa County Sheriff's Office
Enforcement Support Posse
602/740-0785
sshook@mcso-esp.org
_____
See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com. Check it
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=40762/*http:/www.yahoo.com/preview> out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv(at)amsat.org> |
Wouldn't it be more accurate to say that Phoenix is in Maricopa
county?
Jack Sargeant
Former Deputy Sheriff - Williamson County. TX
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 5:38 PM
My bad, I left my signature block on my question to the group
FWIW - Maricopa County is in Phoenix, Arizona
Scott & Jenni
RV-7A N696JS
Working on the Wings
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R Y
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 14:01
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV's at OSH
WHAT A SHNOOK
Where the hell is Maricopa County? Ain't that around here somewhere?
lron
"Scott R. Shook" wrote:
My wife and I are working on the Wings on the RV-7A right now and the
wife would really like a ride in an RV. Anyone with a 7 or 7A at OSH
willing to accommodate a ride for me then for the wife at OSH? Weather and
show permitting of course.
Fuel costs will be covered
Scott R. Shook - P6254
Deputy Commander
Maricopa County Sheriff's Office
Enforcement Support Posse
602/740-0785
sshook@mcso-esp.org
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com. Check it out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Hosking <mavaj2001(at)yahoo.com> |
Scott you work for one hell of a great man. I always wanted to move and join the
Posse, will they take 41 year olds?
Bill Hosking
R Y wrote:
WHAT A SHNOOK
Where the hell is Maricopa County? Ain't that around here somewhere?
lron
"Scott R. Shook" wrote:
My wife and I are working on the Wings on the RV-7A right now and the wife
would really like a ride in an RV. Anyone with a 7 or 7A at OSH willing to
accommodate a ride for me then for the wife at OSH? Weather and show permitting
of course.
Fuel costs will be covered
Scott R. Shook - P6254
Deputy Commander
Maricopa County Sheriff's Office
Enforcement Support Posse
602/740-0785
sshook@mcso-esp.org
---------------------------------
See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com. Check it out.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
I apologize to the list for my signature block. It is not normally left on
personal emails. I was not trying to represent the SO in any way but rather
just very busy when I sent out this email.
Scott & Jenni
RV-7A N696JS
Working on Wings
_____
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hosking
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 01:26
Scott you work for one hell of a great man. I always wanted to move and join
the Posse, will they take 41 year olds?
Bill Hosking
R Y wrote:
WHAT A SHNOOK
Where the hell is Maricopa County? Ain't that around here somewhere?
lron
"Scott R. Shook" wrote:
My wife and I are working on the Wings on the RV-7A right now and the wife
would really like a ride in an RV. Anyone with a 7 or 7A at OSH willing to
accommodate a ride for me then for the wife at OSH? Weather and show
permitting of course.
Fuel costs will be covered
_____
See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com. Check it
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=40762/*http:/www.yahoo.com/preview> out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack [Jockpilot] in Green Bay" <skyking_concorde(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | please add my email to this list: skyking_concorde(at)hotmail.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | finishing kit timing and options. |
I'm now drilling the longerons on my upside down fuse.
I'm thinking it's about time to order that finishing kit.
Also, are there better canopy choices (tint/thickness)?
And for the RV7, any feedback on the Sam James cowl?
other mod suggestions that might effect kit ordering?
thanks
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: finishing kit timing and options. |
Don,
Check out the Carbon fiber canopy from Gamut Services. I have one on order and
it should be here soon. The company is run by Charles Wilhite and he is located
at the Fort Worth Airport, the same airport as Jay Pratt, lots of RV's in that
area. I will post any and all experiences with the canopy, good or bad, so
if your interested drop me an email.
www.gamutservices.biz/products.html
or:
www.missionmedia.org/canopy.html
Mike Ice
RV-9 (no A)
Anchorage, Alaska
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Hall
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 9:11 AM
Subject: RV7-List: finishing kit timing and options.
I'm now drilling the longerons on my upside down fuse.
I'm thinking it's about time to order that finishing kit.
Also, are there better canopy choices (tint/thickness)?
And for the RV7, any feedback on the Sam James cowl?
other mod suggestions that might effect kit ordering?
thanks
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 5pt harness kit for sale |
Don,
I will take the kit, if it is still available. I understand that they can be
modified to fit a 6A with little trouble. My wife can pay for it with
PayPal, if that is acceptable.
George Stanley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | finishing kit timing and options. |
I have not flown yet but the cowl looks awesome. it will take you
moretime to fit. About the worst combination to make it fit is the
Airflow Performance fuel injection servo, FF sump...I have a 2.25
(slightly shorter than listed) and there was no way I could fit the
James alternate air setup...Its debatable that you need it anyway (with
FI) but I am running without alternate air for the first flights at
least.
I can fit a buterfly valve and make a non return valve for the alternate
air if desired but it will take time and head scratching.
You would be much better off with the Bendix servo if going with FF sump
or go for Verticle induction and live with the pig's snout that you bond
on the bottom of the cowl.
See my Yahoo group on the James cowl.
Frank
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Hall
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 10:11 AM
I'm now drilling the longerons on my upside down fuse.
I'm thinking it's about time to order that finishing kit.
Also, are there better canopy choices (tint/thickness)?
And for the RV7, any feedback on the Sam James cowl?
other mod suggestions that might effect kit ordering?
thanks
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | 5pt harness kit for sale |
It's yours. Send me an address and I'll mail it. If you want some pics of
mine during installation:
http://donka.net/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=rv7fusecentersection
<http://donka.net/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=rv7fusecentersection&
page=2> &page=2
paypal will be fine. I'll check with my wife to get her paypal acct.
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
_____
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 6:43 AM
Don,
I will take the kit, if it is still available. I understand that they can
be modified to fit a 6A with little trouble. My wife can pay for it with
PayPal, if that is acceptable.
George Stanley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Email List Web Server Upgrade Tonight... |
Dear Listers,
This evening I will be upgrading the Matronics Web Server hardware to a new Quad-processor
2.8Ghz Xeon system (yes, 4-physical CPUs!) with an Ultra 320 SCSI
Raid 5 disk system and 5GB of DDR2 RAM.
As with the older system, the new system will be running the latest version of
Redhat Linux. Most of the software configuration work is already done for the
migration, but I still have to sync all of the archive and forum data from the
old system to the new system. I am anticipating about 2 to 3 hours of downtime
for me to fully make the transition, although it could be considerable less
if everything goes according to plan.
The Matronics Webserver will be *UNavailable* from the Internet during the work,
and you will receive a time-out if you try to connect during the upgrade.
Email List Distribution will be *available* during the upgrade of the Web Server,
and List message distribution will function as normal.
This represents a significant performance upgrade for the Matronics Web Server
and you should notice nicely improved searching and surfing performance following
the upgrade!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 5pt harness kit for sale |
Don,
Thanks for the response! My address is as follows:
George Stanley
5136 Antelope Dr.
Fort Mohave, AZ.
86426
Let me know what the total is and I will take care of the bill.
Great pics, by the way. They will help since the RV-6A was not included in
the original 5pt harness design.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | 5pt harness kit for sale |
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
_____
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 8:49 PM
Don,
Thanks for the response! My address is as follows:
George Stanley
5136 Antelope Dr.
Fort Mohave, AZ.
86426
Let me know what the total is and I will take care of the bill.
Great pics, by the way. They will help since the RV-6A was not included in
the original 5pt harness design.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
I'm building a tip-up, so for me this is not a debate about that option.
I just have a question for the tip up crowd with experience in IMC...
Does it leak when you're flying through occasional weather? Any pointers
from folks who have faced or addressed this problem?
I would like low odds that my planned glass panel goes zzzzzt should I end
up in some showery conditions...
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Mine doesn't leak in flight. It leaks a bit through the front gap when
sitting out in the rain uncovered. So I cover it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1021 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Hall
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: RV7-List: tip up
I'm building a tip-up, so for me this is not a debate about that
option.
I just have a question for the tip up crowd with experience in IMC...
Does it leak when you're flying through occasional weather? Any
pointers from folks who have faced or addressed this problem?
I would like low odds that my planned glass panel goes zzzzzt should I
end up in some showery conditions...
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "travelair" <travelair(at)comcast.net> |
Dear Don;
We have just picked up our new RV7a(w/tiltup) from Florida and
did infact get into some rain coming home to the west coast, and yes
our feet did get wet. Once home and in the hangar, I found that there
was
no rubber insulation in the tilt up hinge area, thus I believe that we
have
found our problem ?
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Hall
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: RV7-List: tip up
I'm building a tip-up, so for me this is not a debate about that
option.
I just have a question for the tip up crowd with experience in IMC...
Does it leak when you're flying through occasional weather? Any
pointers from folks who have faced or addressed this problem?
I would like low odds that my planned glass panel goes zzzzzt should I
end up in some showery conditions...
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com> |
Mine doesn't leak in flight or on the ground. The water will enter if
you open it in the rain. So to prevent the water from getting into the
avionics I made a small eves trough to catch the run off and drain it to
the side of the aircraft.
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> Mine doesn't leak in flight. It leaks a bit through the front gap
> when sitting out in the rain uncovered. So I cover it.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (1021 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Don Hall
> *To:* rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 02, 2006 9:17 PM
> *Subject:* RV7-List: tip up
>
> I'm building a tip-up, so for me this is not a debate about that
> option.
> I just have a question for the tip up crowd with experience in IMC...
>
> Does it leak when you're flying through occasional weather? Any
> pointers from folks who have faced or addressed this problem?
>
> I would like low odds that my planned glass panel goes zzzzzt
> should I end up in some showery conditions...
>
>
> ******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http://rv7.donka.net
> ******************************************
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Peters <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net> |
After seeing many past threads on this problem and noting some builders
at Osh who taped the front seam while their planes sat outside, has
anyone done a redesign where the canopy does not use a pin hinge and
expose the interior? For example, Lancair has the fuse sealed, with the
canopy frame laying on this, and tilting up via two C arms in the comb
similar to many car trunk designs. Thoughts?
Carl Peters
RV-9A empennage, debating tip-up vs. slider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
For the curious, I heard a story about a tip-up guy whose radio went out
passing through some rain. He supposedly poured the water out of the radio
after the flight.
>:O
You can bet I'll be trying to think like a clever water drop when I get to
finishing. :)
If you solve your problem, do tell. Thanks!
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
_____
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of travelair
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 1:18 AM
Dear Don;
We have just picked up our new RV7a(w/tiltup) from Florida and
did infact get into some rain coming home to the west coast, and yes
our feet did get wet. Once home and in the hangar, I found that there was
no rubber insulation in the tilt up hinge area, thus I believe that we have
found our problem ?
Don
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 9:17 PM
I'm building a tip-up, so for me this is not a debate about that option.
I just have a question for the tip up crowd with experience in IMC...
Does it leak when you're flying through occasional weather? Any pointers
from folks who have faced or addressed this problem?
I would like low odds that my planned glass panel goes zzzzzt should I end
up in some showery conditions...
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott" <scott(at)randolphs.net> |
My tip up did leak in flight, and did cost me a radio repair as a result. I
spent a bit of time working on it and it's been dry for a year now, though
it's probably only a matter of time before it leaks again.
There are several areas of concern:
The front edge of the canopy needs a good rubber seal that fills the whole
gap tightly. This can be tricky to accomplish, especially at the lower
front corners which have to "slide" over the side of the fuselage. This is
a less critcal area, though, as it's not likely water will get from there to
something expensive. When I finally got my installed correctly and tightly
enough to avoid leakage I then had to deal with whistles from air flow
sneaking past, though I eventually whittled them away by gluing in little
bits of foam here and there to fill gaps and damp vibrations in the seal.
The bigger problem is the hinges. I've not looked at the details on the -7
but I _think_ they're very similar to what's on my -6 and it's really tricky
to get it sealed up over the top of the hinges as they extend so close to
the forward skin and need to come up and forward as the canopy opens. If
you're careful triming the skin in this area to leave yourself enough
backing for the seal you'll probably be okay. I had to rely on stuffing it
full of profressional grade caulk and then carving out enough room for the
hinge to travel. Ugly but it did finally work.
The third thing to watch out for are rivets and seams where the skin
attached to the bulkhead and makes the seat for the front of the canopy. In
my plane there are a few small holes where the bulkhead was notched to
folder over in the curve and aren't _quite_ covered by the forward skin.
These have also been filled with caulk. (thankfully they're not visible
with the canopy down)
Finally, I have some pop rivets in my canopy assembly that needed to be
filled with caulk where the stem "popped" out and left a hole in the middle
of the rivet.
I've definitly heard folks compaining about leaks in their sliders too. For
what little it's worth, though, if I had it to do again, I think I'd go
slider and sacrafice the uninterrupted view (which IS spectacular) so that
if water got in it landed on my head and upolstry instead of my panel.
There is also the issue of rain on the ramp and getting wet behind the panel
just getting into the aircraft (which also happened to me).
I've not done it yet, but some kind of removable "splash shield" over the
top of the avionics to protect them has been lurking in the back of my mind
for a while.
Scott
RV6a
550 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Phy" <thomphy(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 08/03/06 |
RV7-List message posted by: "Scott"
>
> My tip up did leak in flight, and did cost me a radio repair as a result.
I
> spent a bit of time working on it and it's been dry for a year now, though
> it's probably only a matter of time before it leaks again.
> I've not done it yet, but some kind of removable "splash shield" over the
> top of the avionics to protect them has been lurking in the back of my
mind
> for a while.
As for raining on your avionics, In the 1980's, while working as an A/P on
De Havilland, Dash 7's, the pilots would put their coffee cups on the center
console and you guessed it, the radios were right under the coffee cups.
They came out with an aluminum tent, (that must have cost them a small
fortune) and the shorted out radio problem ended.
Thomas Phy
RV-7 T/U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
Hi fellow builders.
I saw a builder who had solved the problem with rain entering behind the panel
when you open the canopy:
He had used waterproof lightweight fabric (almost like the fabric a spinaker for
a sailboat is made of) and he had mounted this with velcro across and over the
avionics bay, i.e over the backside of the panel.
The avionis bay was completely protected underneath the cover and the water poured
off to the sides, flowing along the top of fabric and down to the ground.
I'll post a couple of pics on the photoshare-section, but I think it'll take a
few days before it's published.
Best regards Alf Olav Frog /Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com> |
I put a small eves trough along the top of the sub-panel and that cured
the problem of water on the avionics.
Alf Olav Frog wrote:
>
> Hi fellow builders.
>
> I saw a builder who had solved the problem with rain entering behind the panel
when you open the canopy:
> He had used waterproof lightweight fabric (almost like the fabric a spinaker
for a sailboat is made of) and he had mounted this with velcro across and over
the avionics bay, i.e over the backside of the panel.
>
> The avionis bay was completely protected underneath the cover and the water poured
off to the sides, flowing along the top of fabric and down to the ground.
>
> I'll post a couple of pics on the photoshare-section, but I think it'll take
a few days before it's published.
>
> Best regards Alf Olav Frog /Norway
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New Incoming Message Size Limit Implemented... |
Dear Listers,
Due to a number of requests to limit the size of incoming posts to the Lists because
of the recently added enclosure feature, I have add a new filter that will
limit the total size of any given message posted to the List. I have initially
set the limit to 2MB
and we'll see how everyone likes that.
If a member attempts to post a message that is greater than the set limit, they
will receive an email back indicating that their message wasn't posted to the
List and why. Also included in the message will be the current size limit and
how large their message
was.
Some might say that 2MB is still too large, but its a place to start...
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> |
| Subject: | RV6(A) with manual flaps |
I am investigating the degree of difficulty installing manual flaps on
an RV-7.
Van's Tech Support (Tom Green) advised that I should locate a -6(A) with
manual flaps to assess the degree of difficulty using -6 manual flap
components instead of the -7 kit supplied electric flap kit.
With all due respect, I am NOT interested in starting a debate about the
relative merits of electric vs. manual flaps. I already understand that
there are passionate views on both sides.
If you are or know of a -6(A) builder with manual flaps in the
Portland/Vancouver area, I would appreciate a response. I am in the
last stages of wing building and the fuselage is next.
Thank you,
Larry Tompkins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
This thread was very helpful. Thanks to all.
Only thing missing is pics showing some of the things mentioned.
If you have them, can you forward links or attachments?
Thanks!
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 12:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: tip up
My tip up did leak in flight, and did cost me a radio repair as a result. I
spent a bit of time working on it and it's been dry for a year now, though
it's probably only a matter of time before it leaks again.
There are several areas of concern:
The front edge of the canopy needs a good rubber seal that fills the whole
gap tightly. This can be tricky to accomplish, especially at the lower
front corners which have to "slide" over the side of the fuselage. This is
a less critcal area, though, as it's not likely water will get from there to
something expensive. When I finally got my installed correctly and tightly
enough to avoid leakage I then had to deal with whistles from air flow
sneaking past, though I eventually whittled them away by gluing in little
bits of foam here and there to fill gaps and damp vibrations in the seal.
The bigger problem is the hinges. I've not looked at the details on the -7
but I _think_ they're very similar to what's on my -6 and it's really tricky
to get it sealed up over the top of the hinges as they extend so close to
the forward skin and need to come up and forward as the canopy opens. If
you're careful triming the skin in this area to leave yourself enough
backing for the seal you'll probably be okay. I had to rely on stuffing it
full of profressional grade caulk and then carving out enough room for the
hinge to travel. Ugly but it did finally work.
The third thing to watch out for are rivets and seams where the skin
attached to the bulkhead and makes the seat for the front of the canopy. In
my plane there are a few small holes where the bulkhead was notched to
folder over in the curve and aren't _quite_ covered by the forward skin.
These have also been filled with caulk. (thankfully they're not visible
with the canopy down)
Finally, I have some pop rivets in my canopy assembly that needed to be
filled with caulk where the stem "popped" out and left a hole in the middle
of the rivet.
I've definitly heard folks compaining about leaks in their sliders too. For
what little it's worth, though, if I had it to do again, I think I'd go
slider and sacrafice the uninterrupted view (which IS spectacular) so that
if water got in it landed on my head and upolstry instead of my panel.
There is also the issue of rain on the ramp and getting wet behind the panel
just getting into the aircraft (which also happened to me).
I've not done it yet, but some kind of removable "splash shield" over the
top of the avionics to protect them has been lurking in the back of my mind
for a while.
Scott
RV6a
550 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
Since I have been informed that I cannot pass my medical, I am forced to
abandon my RV 7 project and have an engine for sale. It is a Lycoming 0-320 (no
suffix - this is apparently one of the earliest) complete with mags, carb,
alternator, & starter (no flywheel/starter ring). It has a hollow crankshaft
to allow the use of a constant-speed prop. I have the logs for the engine. In
the log book, the designation TC #274 follows the model number. The serial
no. is 3876-27. It is the 150 HP version and can run on auto gas. The first
log entry was 5/14/56. The engine was removed from a Piper-20-150 on 6/1/93
for replacement by a larger engine and has been in storage ever since. At the
time of its removal it had 1995 hours SMOH and 4399 total hours. It is
located at Ellington Airport (LUG) near Lewisburg, TN.
Based on similar engines I have seen advertised, I am asking $6500 and will
provide free shipping at this price, but will consider reasonable offers.
Jim Hasper
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 wing kit for sale - Medical |
Sincere thanks to all who wrote to give me advice about my medical. I
really do appreciate your concern, but will explain further why I've decided to
give up the RV 7.
I was already flying under a special issuance medical due to having a pace
maker and stents in 2 arteries. Under the SIM I was required to periodically
submit full medical data (stress test, EKG, pacemaker test and log, etc) even
before the medical was due for reexamination. I sent in the last submittal
a couple of months before the medical was due to expire, but didn't hear
anything back until after it had expired. I then received a letter from the FFA
stating that they had reviewed my records and found that I was not eligible
for any class license. They further stated "if you reapply, we will have no
choice to deny you".
>From this, and AOPA agrees, I infer that they have not actually denied my
medical, and I am therefore still eligible for Sport Pilot. I considered
contesting their ruling, since my cardiologist says there has been no change in
my
condition since my previous submittal, but I decided that I would then be
playing Russian roulette. That is, they could deny me at any time, and then my
flying options would be even more limited - ultralight, glider, or motor
glider.
I agree that building is a great joy, but rather than finishing the RV 7 and
then selling it, I've decided to build a Sonex instead. The Sonex is the
closest thing to an RV 7 that I could find in the LSA class. (Sorry, but the
RV 12 just doesn't cut it - it's not aerobatic and it won't be available for
another year). After all, I'm now 70 years old and don't want to wait the
year or 2 to finish the RV 7 and then another year or 2 to build the Sonex, and
I can't afford a ready-built. I did fly gliders a bit and in fact soloed,
but it's a 2 hour drive to the nearest glider club. There is a commercial
glider operation about a 1 hour drive away, but they are VERY expensive,
especially in the learning stage where you are concentrating on a particular task
and
often get less than an hour flight per tow (maybe only a few minutes if you
are practicing recovery from tow line breaks).
Thanks again for the advice and concern. It's great to know such a caring,
helpful, bunch of guys.
Jim Hasper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | RV 7 wing kit for sale - Medical |
Holy Moly, I hope I'm demanding aerobatic rated pacemakers and stents at 70!
You are superman!.
Good luck with the Sonex. If you need a left seater, come on over to ATL,
and we'll drink some pre-aerobatic flight prune, er superman juice!
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J2j3h4(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV 7 wing kit for sale - Medical
Sincere thanks to all who wrote to give me advice about my medical. I
really do appreciate your concern, but will explain further why I've decided
to give up the RV 7.
I was already flying under a special issuance medical due to having a pace
maker and stents in 2 arteries. Under the SIM I was required to
periodically submit full medical data (stress test, EKG, pacemaker test and
log, etc) even before the medical was due for reexamination. I sent in the
last submittal a couple of months before the medical was due to expire, but
didn't hear anything back until after it had expired. I then received a
letter from the FFA stating that they had reviewed my records and found that
I was not eligible for any class license. They further stated "if you
reapply, we will have no choice to deny you".
>From this, and AOPA agrees, I infer that they have not actually denied my
medical, and I am therefore still eligible for Sport Pilot. I considered
contesting their ruling, since my cardiologist says there has been no change
in my condition since my previous submittal, but I decided that I would then
be playing Russian roulette. That is, they could deny me at any time, and
then my flying options would be even more limited - ultralight, glider, or
motor glider.
I agree that building is a great joy, but rather than finishing the RV 7 and
then selling it, I've decided to build a Sonex instead. The Sonex is the
closest thing to an RV 7 that I could find in the LSA class. (Sorry, but
the RV 12 just doesn't cut it - it's not aerobatic and it won't be available
for another year). After all, I'm now 70 years old and don't want to wait
the year or 2 to finish the RV 7 and then another year or 2 to build the
Sonex, and I can't afford a ready-built. I did fly gliders a bit and in
fact soloed, but it's a 2 hour drive to the nearest glider club. There is a
commercial glider operation about a 1 hour drive away, but they are VERY
expensive, especially in the learning stage where you are concentrating on a
particular task and often get less than an hour flight per tow (maybe only a
few minutes if you are practicing recovery from tow line breaks).
Thanks again for the advice and concern. It's great to know such a caring,
helpful, bunch of guys.
Jim Hasper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 wing kit for sale - Medical |
On 23:32:57 2006-08-17 J2j3h4(at)aol.com wrote:
> I agree that building is a great joy, but rather than finishing the
> RV 7 and then selling it, I've decided to build a Sonex instead. The
> Sonex is the closest thing to an RV 7 that I could find in the LSA
> class.
Good luck with the Sonex. I seriously considered it before starting my -7.
In hindsight, given how far i've come on my -7 so far, the Sonex may have
been a better choice. :) But it *is* a nice plane.
Just my opinion, but I would put the V-tail on it. Aerodynamically it
doesn't do anything extra for the design, but it does look pretty.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Alf Olav Frog ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Alf Olav Frog
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV9-List
Subject: Prevent Water Behind Panel
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/alfolavf@online.no.08.19.2006/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bobby Hargrave ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bobby Hargrave
Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Sticky Exhaust Valve
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bphargrave@worldnet.att.net.1.08.19.2006/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Rant, question, suggestion: errors in plans/drawings |
Rant mode on; drinkers of the 'Van's can do no wrong' koolaid, please
stop & delete now.
Several weeks (months?) ago I built up all the fuselage bulkheads
including the main spar carry-thru for my -7 kit. I carefully followed
all the directions/drawing indications I could find, especially on the
spar carrythru bulkhead. I noted & carefully followed the exploded views
on dwg 11 (rev 10-16-00) & later, dwg 22 (rev 10-27-00) showing the
bolts for the F633 L&R control brackets & all the F716 seat ribs with
the heads to the rear, threads forward.
I built up the tail cone. I completed the prep work for final assy of
the midsection. I began the riveting of the midsection several days ago
& today, neared completion of the riveting.
While studying dwg 22 section views to determine the orientation of the
bolts through the F715 seat ribs, I noticed that they show nuts on the
rib flange of all the F716 seat ribs where they bolt to the F704 spar
carry-thru. 'Curses; must have not been paying attention when I bolted
this stuff together.' (Bad medium term memory of earlier careful study
of plans.) Out came the wrenches, re-oriented all the F716 bolts,
retorqued. Happened to glance at the exploded view on the same dwg. All
rib bolts drawn with head on the rib flange. I checked dwg 11 exploded
view for the F633 bolts; it's inconsistent with the section view on dwg
22 also. Errors/inconsistencies #742 & 743 (guesstimate :-) ) noted in
the plans and/or instructions. By the way, this same section in the
instructions tells you to cleco in & drill the seat & baggage floors
without telling you to install the baggage ribs at all & before they
mention installing the F715 seat ribs, which must be curved by the
builder, have centerlines drawn on their bottom flanges (not
prepunched), & be match drilled to the belly skin. My revision of dwg
shows the control stick walking beam assy to the spar with bolts
oriented in a fashion that cannot be achieved under the current laws of
physics. When I called about that, the tech guy had different
orientation for some of the bolts, on his dwg with the same revision
date. Excuse: 'Well, sometimes minor changes are made without changing
the rev date/number.' His 1st suggested change also could not be
achieved under the current laws of physics. The final result was
basically, 'assemble it however you can to get it to work.'
I've lost count of the number of times I've called the tech guys at
Van's to politely question or point out this kind of stuff & asked
repeatedly why they don't offer a section of the website with
corrections & updates. They are usually courteous, but I invariably get
various lame excuses like 'you should read ahead', you should know how
it's done', 'well, when we built the prototype, we didn't have the
instructions', etc etc etc. Sometimes they say they will bring up the
issue 'at a staff meeting' but rarely if ever do they act like the
issues are any big deal. Never is there any feedback or encouragement to
continue reporting this stuff & with a single exception (defective AL
bar stock) never an admission that others have had the same issue.
Ok, rant mode off.
Question: should I care which way the F716 bolts are oriented (currently
head forward, nut/washer on rib) or the F633 bolts (currently head on
F633)? The belly skin rivets under the F716 bolts will be less
convenient to drive, but still 'doable'.
Suggestion:
We all take advantage of Matt's wiki to add a section for each model &
sub sections for each assy or part that we have problems understanding
or that are obvious errors/inconsistencies. The entries should document
the plan revision date and/or the instruction revision date. This should
help us all by consolidating records of problem areas, something Van's
is obviously unwilling to do.
Is this a worthwhile suggestion?
(Again, koolaid drinkers please don't reply.)
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in plans/drawings |
| From: | "Brian Gawronski" <six_rabbits(at)yahoo.com> |
I feel your pain. Ive wasted countless hours attempting to decipher Vans instructions.
I find them poorly organized, lacking necessary detail, and at times
ambiguous.
After designing a great airplane, the single best thing Van could do for his customers
would be to document the assembly process from the perspective of a first-time
builder. Really build a kit, start to finish, exactly according to the
instructions. This would allow them to find and fix errors and omissions.
I believe Vans thinks their plans are accurate and complete, but the authors
perhaps know too much about the assembly to realize how much they take for granted.
However, not maintaining rigorous revision control is inexcusable, and
indicates a lack of respect for their customers.
Id happily buy the documentation that would eliminate the hours spent staring at
the plans instead of building, or worse, having to disassemble and rebuild,
because I cant read minds or see into the future. Read ahead? Okay, but lets
please be reasonable.
This is supposed to be fun, right?
--------
Brian Gawronski
RV-7A Empennage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57743#57743
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cylinders: ECI vs Superior or Others |
I'm looking for decision support To all the Engine
Gurus and Roll your own engine builders out there,
which is the cylinder kit to by in todays market. So
many things are changing. It seems like everyday
products are being improved and or modified in some
way. I will not be going with standard compression
pistons and have not settled on the type of pistons or
the ratio yet. I would like to discuss overall
quality, casting, manufacturing methods etc... Which
will require a port clean up? Who's cleaned up their
fins from casing issues? Is anyone using a cryogenic
process on wear parts? Etc... Any information or
advice is appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
__________________
Darrell Reiley
RV7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR Reserved
CenTex_RV_Aircraft-owner(at)yahoogroups.com
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Okrent3209(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Drawing inconsistencies in Midsection of RV7 |
Charlie,
I agree with you on the wiki idea. I've come across similar problems over
the past 4 years of building very slowly. One thing that really bugs me is
that my manual says to cut a 1-5/8 hole in the F725 for the step (I'm building
a
7A) and the drawing shows a 1-1/2" hole. The step tube is 1-1/2". It also
shows that the F623 needs to be cut to avoid interference. But no indication
of what orientation the steps will have at that point? The fuselage curves
back right at that point where the step seems to attach.
In addition, F767 has no hole sizes. I called Vans and they said the
drawing was to scale so that was the size of the holes!
Mike Okrent
RV7A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 7 Wing Kit For Sale |
Would the person who called me sometime around August 20 about the RV 7 wing
kit I have for sale please call me again or email me? I've misplaced your
phone number.
Jim Hasper
615-595-4334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Leading Edge/Tank Attach Strips - Question |
Hey all,
I am looking for some help locating the leading edge/tank attach strips.
According to my instructions I am supposed to be looking for W-423 Attach
Joint Plate but I do not even see that in my parts manifest. The only thing
that references tank and join are 2 strips of AS3-032X 1 1/2 X 36 1/2 Tank
Joint Plate.
Are these strips what I am looking for?
Thanks for the help
Scott & Jenni
RV-7A N696JS
Left Wing drilled - ready to start on tanks (ugh!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Leading Edge/Tank Attach Strips - Question |
Leading Edge/Tank Attach Strips - Questionyep, start here:
http://www.rvproject.com/20020716.html Dan Checkoway's project web site
Dan has done a wonderfull job in documenting his project. I bought his CD
and refer to it all the time. You will want to review his approach to not
only the le/tank joint but
more importantly (and useful) read his sections on the tank Z brackets.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 2:15 PM
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: Leading Edge/Tank Attach Strips - Question
Hey all,
I am looking for some help locating the leading edge/tank attach strips.
According to my instructions I am supposed to be looking for W-423 Attach
Joint Plate but I do not even see that in my parts manifest. The only thing
that references tank and join are 2 strips of AS3-032X 1 1/2 X 36 1/2 Tank
Joint Plate.
Are these strips what I am looking for?
Thanks for the help
Scott & Jenni
RV-7A N696JS
Left Wing drilled - ready to start on tanks (ugh!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading Edge/Tank Attach Strips - Question |
Yes those are the strips to use and building the tanks is NOT an issue.
Quite listing to people about how bad they are to build, just put it in
your mind that the prop-seal can be a bit messy and get on with it. Then
it won't be so bad.
Scott R. Shook wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> I am looking for some help locating the leading edge/tank attach
> strips. According to my instructions I am supposed to be looking for
> W-423 Attach Joint Plate but I do not even see that in my parts
> manifest. The only thing that references tank and join are 2 strips
> of AS3-032X 1 1/2 X 36 1/2 Tank Joint Plate.
>
> Are these strips what I am looking for?
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Scott & Jenni
>
> RV-7A N696JS
>
> Left Wing drilled - ready to start on tanks (ugh!)
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leading Edge/Tank Attach Strips - Question |
| From: | "AltonD" <adeweese3(at)comcast.net> |
Drawing 12, Section F-F. Note on the left hand side of section F-F. It's buried
in there, but you have the right piece.
--------
AltonD
Waiting on the slow build fuselage to deliver
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60666#60666
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
| Subject: | Leading Edge/Tank Attach Strips - Question |
To those that are new to this,
When Norman said, "just put it in your mind that the prop-seal can be a bit
messy and get on with it." He actually meant "flamemaster" or "PRC" (among
other names) fuel tank sealant. Don't use prop-seal, whatever that is. And
I agree with Norman, that the tanks are not bad to do. I would do them
again if I ever build another plane . Two guys two sessions per tank.
Build on.
Bevan
RV7A Finishing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading Edge/Tank Attach Strips - Question |
Looks like I made a few spelling errors in the last note. I meant
Pro-Seal or PRC etc. like Van's supplies.
Thanks for the correction Bevan.
B Tomm wrote:
>
> To those that are new to this,
>
> When Norman said, "just put it in your mind that the prop-seal can be
> a bit messy and get on with it." He actually meant "flamemaster" or
> "PRC" (among other names) fuel tank sealant. Don't use prop-seal,
> whatever that is. And I agree with Norman, that the tanks are not bad
> to do. I would do them again if I ever build another plane . Two
> guys two sessions per tank. Build on.
>
> Bevan
> RV7A Finishing kit.
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AltonD" <adeweese3(at)comcast.net> |
re: test.
--------
AltonD
Waiting on the slow build fuselage to deliver
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60710#60710
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AltonD" <adeweese3(at)comcast.net> |
re: test.
--------
AltonD
Waiting on the slow build fuselage to deliver
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60711#60711
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid section
belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770 side
skins & cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a 'pucker' in
the bottom edge of the skin between the rear spar carry-through & the
change in angle of the bottom skin where the F-770 curved portion
starts. This is where the 770 would (I assume) get riveted to the flange
of the F-623 rib that lies flat in the belly skin on each side.
Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to
fit the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear
spar & the point at which the curved transistion begins.
Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the
other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't
install the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to actually
install them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is an
instruction to install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
The directions get more vague with every step eh?
I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins into
place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're referring
to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's essentially about a
partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely to discourage cracking.
I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible
through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin and
623 rib.
In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it
should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will look a
little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement. I might
plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note that
I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that
intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id=DSC06
382
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM
Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
-->
Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid section
belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770 side skins &
cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a 'pucker' in the bottom
edge of the skin between the rear spar carry-through & the change in angle
of the bottom skin where the F-770 curved portion starts. This is where the
770 would (I assume) get riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies
flat in the belly skin on each side.
Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to fit
the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear spar &
the point at which the curved transistion begins.
Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the
other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't install
the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to actually install
them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is an instruction to
install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
Don,
Pretty sure the bent side skin flap is supposed to lay beneath the belly
skin, not sit on top of it. See this photo:
http://rvimg.com/images/2002/20021101_bend_in_place.jpg
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 10:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
>
> The directions get more vague with every step eh?
>
> I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins into
> place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're referring
> to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's essentially about a
> partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely to discourage cracking.
> I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible
> through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin and
> 623 rib.
>
> In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it
> should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will look
> a
> little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement. I might
> plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
>
> Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note
> that
> I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that
> intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
> (Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
>
> http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id=DSC06
> 382
>
>
> ******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http://rv7.donka.net
> ******************************************
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV list
> Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
>
> -->
>
> Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
>
> I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid section
> belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770 side skins
> &
> cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a 'pucker' in the bottom
> edge of the skin between the rear spar carry-through & the change in angle
> of the bottom skin where the F-770 curved portion starts. This is where
> the
> 770 would (I assume) get riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies
> flat in the belly skin on each side.
>
> Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to
> fit
> the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
> F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear spar
> &
> the point at which the curved transistion begins.
>
> Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the
> other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
>
> Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't
> install
> the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to actually install
> them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is an instruction to
> install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
Thanks for the pics.
My side skin actually bulges out about 1/4" at the midpoint between that
#30 hole (where you start the curve) & the rear-spar carry-through. The
rivet line extending from tail forward along the forward side skins at
the top longerons are straight, with all clecos in place, so I'm pretty
confident in my construction technique, so far.
When I didn't hear anything from the lists over the weekend, I called
Van's yesterday & talked to Tom. He says that the side skin isn't
supposed to meet the belly skin in that area; that the F623 should fill
the gap (of at least 1/8") & the flap will hide it when everything is
assembled. He advised me to remove the clecos tying the mid belly skin
to the tailcone belly skin & see if the gap would close (yes, it does,
at the expense of all those 'matched' holes misaligning by about almost
their full diameters).
Note: my instructions say to drill the F623 ribs to the belly skin (not
rivet) early in the midsection assembly process, with no reference to
fitting them to the side skins. Since they aren't prepunched, the only
reference points to do that are the edges of the belly skin & the F705
bulkhead. After that was pointed out, he said he'd make a note of it.
He offered to send new F623's, no charge (thanks Tom), that & said to
reposition them outboard to (hopefully) take up the slack in the side
skins. After getting off the phone, I played with one of the F623's &
tried to re-contour the flange & move it outboard slightly but the gap
is just too big. I also clecoed in the vertical stiffener (724??) that
ends at the bend start point & that also takes out a bit of the bulge,
but not enough to cure the problem.
Charlie
Don Hall wrote:
>
>The directions get more vague with every step eh?
>
>I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins into
>place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're referring
>to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's essentially about a
>partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely to discourage cracking.
>I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible
>through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin and
>623 rib.
>
>In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it
>should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will look a
>little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement. I might
>plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
>
>Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note that
>I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that
>intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
>(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
>
>http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id=DSC06
>382
>
>
>******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http://rv7.donka.net
>******************************************
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
>Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV list
>Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
>
>-->
>
>Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
>
>I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid section
>belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770 side skins &
>cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a 'pucker' in the bottom
>edge of the skin between the rear spar carry-through & the change in angle
>of the bottom skin where the F-770 curved portion starts. This is where the
>770 would (I assume) get riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies
>flat in the belly skin on each side.
>
>Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to fit
>the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
>F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear spar &
>the point at which the curved transistion begins.
>
>Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the
>other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
>
>Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't install
>the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to actually install
>them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is an instruction to
>install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
Thanks for the discussion of this. It seems there are alot of us working on
the same area now.
I have been following this discussion and thought well I've got pucker on
both sides, but
maybe it'll work it self out as I move along.
Nope, toss the current 623's into the "spare aluminum" bucket,
Just got off the phone with Scott(@ VANs) new f-623- (l & r) are on the way
for me too
Thanks again!
Dave
RV7 - 70898 -fuse forward side skins...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor'
question
Thanks for the pics.
My side skin actually bulges out about 1/4" at the midpoint between that
#30 hole (where you start the curve) & the rear-spar carry-through. The
rivet line extending from tail forward along the forward side skins at
the top longerons are straight, with all clecos in place, so I'm pretty
confident in my construction technique, so far.
When I didn't hear anything from the lists over the weekend, I called
Van's yesterday & talked to Tom. He says that the side skin isn't
supposed to meet the belly skin in that area; that the F623 should fill
the gap (of at least 1/8") & the flap will hide it when everything is
assembled. He advised me to remove the clecos tying the mid belly skin
to the tailcone belly skin & see if the gap would close (yes, it does,
at the expense of all those 'matched' holes misaligning by about almost
their full diameters).
Note: my instructions say to drill the F623 ribs to the belly skin (not
rivet) early in the midsection assembly process, with no reference to
fitting them to the side skins. Since they aren't prepunched, the only
reference points to do that are the edges of the belly skin & the F705
bulkhead. After that was pointed out, he said he'd make a note of it.
He offered to send new F623's, no charge (thanks Tom), that & said to
reposition them outboard to (hopefully) take up the slack in the side
skins. After getting off the phone, I played with one of the F623's &
tried to re-contour the flange & move it outboard slightly but the gap
is just too big. I also clecoed in the vertical stiffener (724??) that
ends at the bend start point & that also takes out a bit of the bulge,
but not enough to cure the problem.
Charlie
Don Hall wrote:
>
>The directions get more vague with every step eh?
>
>I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins into
>place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're referring
>to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's essentially about a
>partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely to discourage cracking.
>I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible
>through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin and
>623 rib.
>
>In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it
>should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will look
a
>little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement. I might
>plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
>
>Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note
that
>I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that
>intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
>(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
>
>http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id=DSC0
6
>382
>
>
>******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http://rv7.donka.net
>******************************************
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
>Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV list
>Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
>
>-->
>
>Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
>
>I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid section
>belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770 side skins &
>cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a 'pucker' in the bottom
>edge of the skin between the rear spar carry-through & the change in angle
>of the bottom skin where the F-770 curved portion starts. This is where the
>770 would (I assume) get riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies
>flat in the belly skin on each side.
>
>Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to fit
>the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
>F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear spar &
>the point at which the curved transistion begins.
>
>Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the
>other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
>
>Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't
install
>the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to actually install
>them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is an instruction to
>install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
Thanks Dan, I'll have you know that you already corrected me about a week
ago. I browsed that section of your site before driving the first rivet and
noticed my faux pas before any harm was done. I'll add a note to that pic.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 1:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
Don,
Pretty sure the bent side skin flap is supposed to lay beneath the belly
skin, not sit on top of it. See this photo:
http://rvimg.com/images/2002/20021101_bend_in_place.jpg
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 10:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
>
> The directions get more vague with every step eh?
>
> I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins into
> place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're referring
> to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's essentially about a
> partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely to discourage cracking.
> I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible
> through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin and
> 623 rib.
>
> In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it
> should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will look
> a
> little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement. I might
> plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
>
> Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note
> that
> I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that
> intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
> (Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
>
>
http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id=DSC06
> 382
>
>
> ******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http://rv7.donka.net
> ******************************************
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV list
> Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
>
> -->
>
> Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
>
> I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid section
> belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770 side skins
> &
> cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a 'pucker' in the bottom
> edge of the skin between the rear spar carry-through & the change in angle
> of the bottom skin where the F-770 curved portion starts. This is where
> the
> 770 would (I assume) get riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies
> flat in the belly skin on each side.
>
> Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to
> fit
> the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
> F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear spar
> &
> the point at which the curved transistion begins.
>
> Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the
> other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
>
> Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't
> install
> the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to actually install
> them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is an instruction to
> install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
OK, I uploaded another couple pics. Y'all have me second guessing. :>
Do you have a picture of your pucker?
The directions have you fit and drill the 623 rib so that the outside of the
flanges line up with the bottom skin. If you do that, then would not the
side skins abut the bottom skin and the 623 flange snugly? When I put it
all together, it looks like my pics, partially riveted. I didn't have to
force anything uncomfortably... Now seeing a hole\gap at the intersection
seemed initially un-vans-like, but I reasoned this as sensible because of
the nature of the transition from the boxy part of the fuselage to the curvy
aft section. And, as you said, the flap has a built-in gap seal with the
fuse.
Anyway, it's pretty nice to know there are a couple other people so close to
where I'm at in construction.
I'm curious to know when you plan to order the finish kit, or whether you
already have. I just kinda decided I would order the finishing kit when I
tip the canoe, which is just around the corner. My general goal is that I
hope to rcv the finishing kit maybe 2-4 weeks after finishing the fuse kit.
(break for family life) And I'm also curious to know when y'all plan to
order engine and instruments relative to these stages of construction. The
cost curve is starting to get to the hockey stick.
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
-->
Thanks for the pics.
My side skin actually bulges out about 1/4" at the midpoint between that #30
hole (where you start the curve) & the rear-spar carry-through. The rivet
line extending from tail forward along the forward side skins at the top
longerons are straight, with all clecos in place, so I'm pretty confident in
my construction technique, so far.
When I didn't hear anything from the lists over the weekend, I called Van's
yesterday & talked to Tom. He says that the side skin isn't supposed to meet
the belly skin in that area; that the F623 should fill the gap (of at least
1/8") & the flap will hide it when everything is assembled. He advised me to
remove the clecos tying the mid belly skin to the tailcone belly skin & see
if the gap would close (yes, it does, at the expense of all those 'matched'
holes misaligning by about almost their full diameters).
Note: my instructions say to drill the F623 ribs to the belly skin (not
rivet) early in the midsection assembly process, with no reference to
fitting them to the side skins. Since they aren't prepunched, the only
reference points to do that are the edges of the belly skin & the F705
bulkhead. After that was pointed out, he said he'd make a note of it.
He offered to send new F623's, no charge (thanks Tom), that & said to
reposition them outboard to (hopefully) take up the slack in the side skins.
After getting off the phone, I played with one of the F623's & tried to
re-contour the flange & move it outboard slightly but the gap is just too
big. I also clecoed in the vertical stiffener (724??) that ends at the bend
start point & that also takes out a bit of the bulge, but not enough to cure
the problem.
Charlie
Don Hall wrote:
>
>The directions get more vague with every step eh?
>
>I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins
>into place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're
>referring to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's
>essentially about a partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely to
discourage cracking.
February 09, 2006 - September 12, 2006
RV7-Archive.digest.vol-al