RV7-Archive.digest.vol-am
September 12, 2006 - February 13, 2007
>I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible
>through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin
>and
>623 rib.
>
>In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it
>should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will
>look a little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement.
>I might plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
>
>Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note
>that I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that
>intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
>(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
>
>http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id
>DSC06
>382
>
>
>******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http://rv7.donka.net
>******************************************
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie
>England
>Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV list
>Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor'
>question
>
>-->
>
>Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
>
>I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid
>section belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770
>side skins & cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a
>'pucker' in the bottom edge of the skin between the rear spar
>carry-through & the change in angle of the bottom skin where the F-770
>curved portion starts. This is where the 770 would (I assume) get
>riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies flat in the belly skin on
each side.
>
>Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to
>fit the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
>F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear
>spar & the point at which the curved transistion begins.
>
>Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the
>other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
>
>Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't
>install the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to
>actually install them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is
>an instruction to install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
Subject: | RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
forgot new pic link.
http://rv7.donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id=D
SC06543
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Hall
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 7:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
OK, I uploaded another couple pics. Y'all have me second guessing. :> Do you
have a picture of your pucker?
The directions have you fit and drill the 623 rib so that the outside of the
flanges line up with the bottom skin. If you do that, then would not the
side skins abut the bottom skin and the 623 flange snugly? When I put it
all together, it looks like my pics, partially riveted. I didn't have to
force anything uncomfortably... Now seeing a hole\gap at the intersection
seemed initially un-vans-like, but I reasoned this as sensible because of
the nature of the transition from the boxy part of the fuselage to the curvy
aft section. And, as you said, the flap has a built-in gap seal with the
fuse.
Anyway, it's pretty nice to know there are a couple other people so close to
where I'm at in construction.
I'm curious to know when you plan to order the finish kit, or whether you
already have. I just kinda decided I would order the finishing kit when I
tip the canoe, which is just around the corner. My general goal is that I
hope to rcv the finishing kit maybe 2-4 weeks after finishing the fuse kit.
(break for family life) And I'm also curious to know when y'all plan to
order engine and instruments relative to these stages of construction. The
cost curve is starting to get to the hockey stick.
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 fuselage
http://rv7.donka.net
******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
-->
Thanks for the pics.
My side skin actually bulges out about 1/4" at the midpoint between that #30
hole (where you start the curve) & the rear-spar carry-through. The rivet
line extending from tail forward along the forward side skins at the top
longerons are straight, with all clecos in place, so I'm pretty confident in
my construction technique, so far.
When I didn't hear anything from the lists over the weekend, I called Van's
yesterday & talked to Tom. He says that the side skin isn't supposed to meet
the belly skin in that area; that the F623 should fill the gap (of at least
1/8") & the flap will hide it when everything is assembled. He advised me to
remove the clecos tying the mid belly skin to the tailcone belly skin & see
if the gap would close (yes, it does, at the expense of all those 'matched'
holes misaligning by about almost their full diameters).
Note: my instructions say to drill the F623 ribs to the belly skin (not
rivet) early in the midsection assembly process, with no reference to
fitting them to the side skins. Since they aren't prepunched, the only
reference points to do that are the edges of the belly skin & the F705
bulkhead. After that was pointed out, he said he'd make a note of it.
He offered to send new F623's, no charge (thanks Tom), that & said to
reposition them outboard to (hopefully) take up the slack in the side skins.
After getting off the phone, I played with one of the F623's & tried to
re-contour the flange & move it outboard slightly but the gap is just too
big. I also clecoed in the vertical stiffener (724??) that ends at the bend
start point & that also takes out a bit of the bulge, but not enough to cure
the problem.
Charlie
Don Hall wrote:
>
>The directions get more vague with every step eh?
>
>I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins
>into place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're
>referring to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's
>essentially about a partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely
>to
discourage cracking.
>I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible
>through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin
>and
>623 rib.
>
>In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it
>should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will
>look a little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement.
>I might plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
>
>Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note
>that I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that
>intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
>(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
>
>http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id
>DSC06
>382
>
>
>******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http://rv7.donka.net
>******************************************
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie
>England
>Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV list
>Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor'
>question
>
>-->
>
>Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
>
>I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid
>section belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770
>side skins & cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a
>'pucker' in the bottom edge of the skin between the rear spar
>carry-through & the change in angle of the bottom skin where the F-770
>curved portion starts. This is where the 770 would (I assume) get
>riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies flat in the belly skin
>on
each side.
>
>Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to
>fit the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
>F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear
>spar & the point at which the curved transistion begins.
>
>Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the
>other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
>
>Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't
>install the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to
>actually install them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is
>an instruction to install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question |
Don,
I added your email address, just in case the images don't make it to the
list.
1192 is rt side. Corner is rolled & clecoed, 623 is unmodified, side
skin clecoed to all 3 bulkheads & bottom skins clecoed to each other,
baggage area horizontal & vertical stiffeners clecoed into the side skin
(vertical stiffener installation removed about 1/2 the pucker, but still
unacceptable; riveting must start at rear spar, pushing excess to the
roll transition, creating high stress at the #30 hole intended to be the
stress reliever.)
1193 is left side. Corner is unrolled, 623 has had flange rebent
slightly in an attempt to fill the gap, side skin clecoed to all 3
bulkheads & bottom skins clecoed together, no horizontal or vertical
stiffeners installed.
Just out of curiosity: when you tucked the roll inside the bottom skin,
did your 'pucker' get better or worse?
Charlie
Don Hall wrote:
>
>OK, I uploaded another couple pics. Y'all have me second guessing. :>
>Do you have a picture of your pucker?
>
>The directions have you fit and drill the 623 rib so that the outside of the
>flanges line up with the bottom skin. If you do that, then would not the
>side skins abut the bottom skin and the 623 flange snugly? When I put it
>all together, it looks like my pics, partially riveted. I didn't have to
>force anything uncomfortably... Now seeing a hole\gap at the intersection
>seemed initially un-vans-like, but I reasoned this as sensible because of
>the nature of the transition from the boxy part of the fuselage to the curvy
>aft section. And, as you said, the flap has a built-in gap seal with the
>fuse.
>
>Anyway, it's pretty nice to know there are a couple other people so close to
>where I'm at in construction.
>
>I'm curious to know when you plan to order the finish kit, or whether you
>already have. I just kinda decided I would order the finishing kit when I
>tip the canoe, which is just around the corner. My general goal is that I
>hope to rcv the finishing kit maybe 2-4 weeks after finishing the fuse kit.
>(break for family life) And I'm also curious to know when y'all plan to
>order engine and instruments relative to these stages of construction. The
>cost curve is starting to get to the hockey stick.
>
>
>******************************************
> Don Hall
> N517DG (registered)
> rv7 fuselage
> http://rv7.donka.net
>******************************************
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
>Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 3:12 PM
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
>
>-->
>
>Thanks for the pics.
>
>My side skin actually bulges out about 1/4" at the midpoint between that #30
>hole (where you start the curve) & the rear-spar carry-through. The rivet
>line extending from tail forward along the forward side skins at the top
>longerons are straight, with all clecos in place, so I'm pretty confident in
>my construction technique, so far.
>
>When I didn't hear anything from the lists over the weekend, I called Van's
>yesterday & talked to Tom. He says that the side skin isn't supposed to meet
>the belly skin in that area; that the F623 should fill the gap (of at least
>1/8") & the flap will hide it when everything is assembled. He advised me to
>remove the clecos tying the mid belly skin to the tailcone belly skin & see
>if the gap would close (yes, it does, at the expense of all those 'matched'
>holes misaligning by about almost their full diameters).
>
>Note: my instructions say to drill the F623 ribs to the belly skin (not
>rivet) early in the midsection assembly process, with no reference to
>fitting them to the side skins. Since they aren't prepunched, the only
>reference points to do that are the edges of the belly skin & the F705
>bulkhead. After that was pointed out, he said he'd make a note of it.
>
>He offered to send new F623's, no charge (thanks Tom), that & said to
>reposition them outboard to (hopefully) take up the slack in the side skins.
>After getting off the phone, I played with one of the F623's & tried to
>re-contour the flange & move it outboard slightly but the gap is just too
>big. I also clecoed in the vertical stiffener (724??) that ends at the bend
>start point & that also takes out a bit of the bulge, but not enough to cure
>the problem.
>
>Charlie
>
>Don Hall wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>The directions get more vague with every step eh?
>>
>>I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins
>>into place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're
>>referring to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's
>>essentially about a partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely to
>>
>>
>discourage cracking.
>
>
>>I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible
>>through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin
>>and
>>623 rib.
>>
>>In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it
>>should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will
>>look a little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement.
>>I might plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
>>
>>Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note
>>that I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that
>>intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
>>(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
>>
>>http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id
>>DSC06
>>382
>>
>>
>>******************************************
>>Don Hall
>>N517DG (registered)
>>rv7 fuselage
>>http://rv7.donka.net
>>
1192 is rt side. corner is rolled & clecoed, 623 is unmodified, side
skin clecoed to all 3 bulkheads & bottom skins clecoed to each other,
baggage area horizontal & vertical stiffeners clecoed into the side skin
(vertical stiffener installation removed about 1/2 the pucker, but still
unacceptable; riveting must start at rear spar, pushing excess to the
roll transition, creating high stress at the #30 hole intended to be the
stress reliever.)
1193 is left side. corner is unrolled, 623 has had flange rebent
slightly in an attempt to fill the gap, side skin clecoed to all 3
bulkheads & bottom skins clecoed together, no horizontal or vertical
stiffeners installed.
Just out of curiosity: when you tucked the roll inside the bottom skin,
did your 'pucker' get any worse?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Oanoonmeeting(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Empennage fairing |
Does anyone have a recommendation for an empennage fairing that will be
easier to fit and/or look better than Van's?
John Lester
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
Subject: | Empennage fairing |
Take a look at fairings-etc.com. I haven't used them myself but I've heard
good things on one of these lists.
Bevan
RV7A finish kit
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Oanoonmeeting(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 6:41 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Empennage fairing
Does anyone have a recommendation for an empennage fairing that will be
easier to fit and/or look better than Van's?
John Lester
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com> |
Subject: | Re: Empennage fairing |
Van's looks ok. Just trim the forward section to make a nice pleasing
line to your eyes. Most of them need minor/ major mods to make them fit
well. When all is done you won't see the cuts and patches.
Oanoonmeeting(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation for an empennage fairing that
> will be easier to fit and/or look better than Van's?
>
> John Lester
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Franz Fux" <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com> |
Subject: | Empennage fairing |
My fairing from Vans fit very well after some minor adjustments, which you
will have to do on any of them,
Franz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of B Tomm
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 7:02 PM
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Empennage fairing
Take a look at fairings-etc.com. I haven't used them myself but I've
heard good things on one of these lists.
Bevan
RV7A finish kit
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Oanoonmeeting(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 6:41 PM
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: Empennage fairing
Does anyone have a recommendation for an empennage fairing that will be
easier to fit and/or look better than Van's?
John Lester
.com/Navigator?RV7-List
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | IO-390 engine use |
Dear listers,
I am one of the many trying to figure out an engine for my RV7. I am
interested in the IO-390 engine. If you have installed
one of these on your airplane, I would be interested to hear if there
are any installation problems compared to the
IO-360 series (spacing, cowling attachment, etc) and also how your
performance numbers look.
Thanks in advance,
John Brunke
St. Charles, IL
N767JB
Tail almost completed.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no> |
Subject: | Trimtab problems are history! |
Hi fellow RV-builders!
Hi RV-fellow builders!
I live in Norway and am building a RV-7. I've have discovered a GREAT tool for
bending soft metal.
It's a kind of a plier who makes EXACTLY 90 degree bends with PERFECT turnradius!
It's IDEAL for the trimtab, the tabs on the left elevator and other parts where
you need a bend.
The PERFECT trimtab can be done on FIVE MINUTES! (or maybe even less...)
I've posted pics of the plier in the Photo Share section today, however it'll take
a few days until the pics are posted I think.
The pliar was found in a tinsmith shop (tinman).
It's an old tool but SUPERB for the job!
Since it'e here in Norway, it also must be possible to find in the US or other
parts of the world.
I've also sent photos to Mr Bob Avery at Avery Tools, and maybe they'll start making
the tool?
Happy building (and bending!) builders.
Best regards Alf Olav Frog