RV7-Archive.digest.vol-am

September 12, 2006 - February 13, 2007



      >I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible 
      >through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin 
      >and
      >623 rib.  
      >
      >In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it 
      >should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will 
      >look a little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement.  
      >I might plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside.
      >
      >Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note 
      >that I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that 
      >intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it.
      >(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...)
      >
      >http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id
      >DSC06
      >382
      >
      >
      >******************************************
      > Don Hall                  
      > N517DG (registered)
      > rv7 fuselage
      > http://rv7.donka.net
      >******************************************
      >
      >-----Original Message-----
      >From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
      >[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
      >England
      >Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM
      >To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV list
      >Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' 
      >question
      >
      >--> 
      >
      >Greetings -7 fuselage builders,
      >
      >I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid 
      >section belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770 
      >side skins & cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a 
      >'pucker' in the bottom edge of the skin between the rear spar 
      >carry-through & the change in angle of the bottom skin where the F-770 
      >curved portion starts. This is where the 770 would (I assume) get 
      >riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies flat in the belly skin on
      each side.
      >
      >Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to 
      >fit the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to
      >F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear 
      >spar & the point at which the curved transistion begins.
      >
      >Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the 
      >other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge.
      >
      >Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't 
      >install the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to 
      >actually install them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is 
      >an instruction to install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's.
      >
      >Thanks,
      >
      >Charlie
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
Date: Sep 12, 2006
forgot new pic link. http://rv7.donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id=D SC06543 ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Hall Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 7:31 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question OK, I uploaded another couple pics. Y'all have me second guessing. :> Do you have a picture of your pucker? The directions have you fit and drill the 623 rib so that the outside of the flanges line up with the bottom skin. If you do that, then would not the side skins abut the bottom skin and the 623 flange snugly? When I put it all together, it looks like my pics, partially riveted. I didn't have to force anything uncomfortably... Now seeing a hole\gap at the intersection seemed initially un-vans-like, but I reasoned this as sensible because of the nature of the transition from the boxy part of the fuselage to the curvy aft section. And, as you said, the flap has a built-in gap seal with the fuse. Anyway, it's pretty nice to know there are a couple other people so close to where I'm at in construction. I'm curious to know when you plan to order the finish kit, or whether you already have. I just kinda decided I would order the finishing kit when I tip the canoe, which is just around the corner. My general goal is that I hope to rcv the finishing kit maybe 2-4 weeks after finishing the fuse kit. (break for family life) And I'm also curious to know when y'all plan to order engine and instruments relative to these stages of construction. The cost curve is starting to get to the hockey stick. ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 3:12 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question --> Thanks for the pics. My side skin actually bulges out about 1/4" at the midpoint between that #30 hole (where you start the curve) & the rear-spar carry-through. The rivet line extending from tail forward along the forward side skins at the top longerons are straight, with all clecos in place, so I'm pretty confident in my construction technique, so far. When I didn't hear anything from the lists over the weekend, I called Van's yesterday & talked to Tom. He says that the side skin isn't supposed to meet the belly skin in that area; that the F623 should fill the gap (of at least 1/8") & the flap will hide it when everything is assembled. He advised me to remove the clecos tying the mid belly skin to the tailcone belly skin & see if the gap would close (yes, it does, at the expense of all those 'matched' holes misaligning by about almost their full diameters). Note: my instructions say to drill the F623 ribs to the belly skin (not rivet) early in the midsection assembly process, with no reference to fitting them to the side skins. Since they aren't prepunched, the only reference points to do that are the edges of the belly skin & the F705 bulkhead. After that was pointed out, he said he'd make a note of it. He offered to send new F623's, no charge (thanks Tom), that & said to reposition them outboard to (hopefully) take up the slack in the side skins. After getting off the phone, I played with one of the F623's & tried to re-contour the flange & move it outboard slightly but the gap is just too big. I also clecoed in the vertical stiffener (724??) that ends at the bend start point & that also takes out a bit of the bulge, but not enough to cure the problem. Charlie Don Hall wrote: > >The directions get more vague with every step eh? > >I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins >into place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're >referring to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's >essentially about a partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely >to discourage cracking. >I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible >through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin >and >623 rib. > >In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it >should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will >look a little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement. >I might plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside. > >Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note >that I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that >intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it. >(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...) > >http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id >DSC06 >382 > > >****************************************** > Don Hall > N517DG (registered) > rv7 fuselage > http://rv7.donka.net >****************************************** > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie >England >Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:21 PM >To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com; RV list >Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' >question > >--> > >Greetings -7 fuselage builders, > >I've got a glitch with my F-770 forward side skins. With the mid >section belly skin clecoed to the tailcone @ F706, when I add the F770 >side skins & cleco them to the F704, 705 & 706 bulkheads I get a >'pucker' in the bottom edge of the skin between the rear spar >carry-through & the change in angle of the bottom skin where the F-770 >curved portion starts. This is where the 770 would (I assume) get >riveted to the flange of the F-623 rib that lies flat in the belly skin >on each side. > >Both sides do this. I've removed one skin & rolled the bottom corner to >fit the tailcone, & it still has the 'pucker'. With the 770 clecoed to >F705 bulkhead there is about a 1/4" gap at midpoint between the rear >spar & the point at which the curved transistion begins. > >Again, one side has been curved to transition around to the belly & the >other is still unbent; both exhibit the same bulge. > >Related question: I see in my instructions one note that says 'don't >install the F-623 ribs now' but I can't find any instruction to >actually install them. Anyone seen that instruction? All I've seen is >an instruction to install the forward doubler attach tab for the F-623's. > >Thanks, > >Charlie > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question
Don, I added your email address, just in case the images don't make it to the list. 1192 is rt side. Corner is rolled & clecoed, 623 is unmodified, side skin clecoed to all 3 bulkheads & bottom skins clecoed to each other, baggage area horizontal & vertical stiffeners clecoed into the side skin (vertical stiffener installation removed about 1/2 the pucker, but still unacceptable; riveting must start at rear spar, pushing excess to the roll transition, creating high stress at the #30 hole intended to be the stress reliever.) 1193 is left side. Corner is unrolled, 623 has had flange rebent slightly in an attempt to fill the gap, side skin clecoed to all 3 bulkheads & bottom skins clecoed together, no horizontal or vertical stiffeners installed. Just out of curiosity: when you tucked the roll inside the bottom skin, did your 'pucker' get better or worse? Charlie Don Hall wrote: > >OK, I uploaded another couple pics. Y'all have me second guessing. :> >Do you have a picture of your pucker? > >The directions have you fit and drill the 623 rib so that the outside of the >flanges line up with the bottom skin. If you do that, then would not the >side skins abut the bottom skin and the 623 flange snugly? When I put it >all together, it looks like my pics, partially riveted. I didn't have to >force anything uncomfortably... Now seeing a hole\gap at the intersection >seemed initially un-vans-like, but I reasoned this as sensible because of >the nature of the transition from the boxy part of the fuselage to the curvy >aft section. And, as you said, the flap has a built-in gap seal with the >fuse. > >Anyway, it's pretty nice to know there are a couple other people so close to >where I'm at in construction. > >I'm curious to know when you plan to order the finish kit, or whether you >already have. I just kinda decided I would order the finishing kit when I >tip the canoe, which is just around the corner. My general goal is that I >hope to rcv the finishing kit maybe 2-4 weeks after finishing the fuse kit. >(break for family life) And I'm also curious to know when y'all plan to >order engine and instruments relative to these stages of construction. The >cost curve is starting to get to the hockey stick. > > >****************************************** > Don Hall > N517DG (registered) > rv7 fuselage > http://rv7.donka.net >****************************************** > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England >Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 3:12 PM >To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7 F-770 forward side skin 'pucker factor' question > >--> > >Thanks for the pics. > >My side skin actually bulges out about 1/4" at the midpoint between that #30 >hole (where you start the curve) & the rear-spar carry-through. The rivet >line extending from tail forward along the forward side skins at the top >longerons are straight, with all clecos in place, so I'm pretty confident in >my construction technique, so far. > >When I didn't hear anything from the lists over the weekend, I called Van's >yesterday & talked to Tom. He says that the side skin isn't supposed to meet >the belly skin in that area; that the F623 should fill the gap (of at least >1/8") & the flap will hide it when everything is assembled. He advised me to >remove the clecos tying the mid belly skin to the tailcone belly skin & see >if the gap would close (yes, it does, at the expense of all those 'matched' >holes misaligning by about almost their full diameters). > >Note: my instructions say to drill the F623 ribs to the belly skin (not >rivet) early in the midsection assembly process, with no reference to >fitting them to the side skins. Since they aren't prepunched, the only >reference points to do that are the edges of the belly skin & the F705 >bulkhead. After that was pointed out, he said he'd make a note of it. > >He offered to send new F623's, no charge (thanks Tom), that & said to >reposition them outboard to (hopefully) take up the slack in the side skins. >After getting off the phone, I played with one of the F623's & tried to >re-contour the flange & move it outboard slightly but the gap is just too >big. I also clecoed in the vertical stiffener (724??) that ends at the bend >start point & that also takes out a bit of the bulge, but not enough to cure >the problem. > >Charlie > >Don Hall wrote: > > > >> >>The directions get more vague with every step eh? >> >>I'm just a few steps ahead of you. I'm about to rivet the side skins >>into place. I don't have any "pucker", but I think I know what you're >>referring to. Where the bend in the side skin begins, there's >>essentially about a partial #30 size hole drilled at the corner likely to >> >> >discourage cracking. > > >>I think there's an inevitable amount of daylight that will be visible >>through that "hole" at the intersection of the bottom skin, side skin >>and >>623 rib. >> >>In my case, I feel confident that it's all fitting like it appears it >>should, and I do expect some daylight at this point. I expect it will >>look a little better after riveting, so I'm reserving final judgement. >>I might plunk a dab of proseal or rtv in that area from the inside. >> >>Here's a pic of my fuse from when I was originally doing the bend. Note >>that I smoothed out the two small sharp points in the side skin at that >>intersection. I'll take another pic of that intersection after I rivet it. >>(Might be a few weeks out due to imminent biz trip...) >> >>http://donka.net/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=rv7fwdsection&id >>DSC06 >>382 >> >> >>****************************************** >>Don Hall >>N517DG (registered) >>rv7 fuselage >>http://rv7.donka.net >> 1192 is rt side. corner is rolled & clecoed, 623 is unmodified, side skin clecoed to all 3 bulkheads & bottom skins clecoed to each other, baggage area horizontal & vertical stiffeners clecoed into the side skin (vertical stiffener installation removed about 1/2 the pucker, but still unacceptable; riveting must start at rear spar, pushing excess to the roll transition, creating high stress at the #30 hole intended to be the stress reliever.) 1193 is left side. corner is unrolled, 623 has had flange rebent slightly in an attempt to fill the gap, side skin clecoed to all 3 bulkheads & bottom skins clecoed together, no horizontal or vertical stiffeners installed. Just out of curiosity: when you tucked the roll inside the bottom skin, did your 'pucker' get any worse? Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oanoonmeeting(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 12, 2006
Subject: Empennage fairing
Does anyone have a recommendation for an empennage fairing that will be easier to fit and/or look better than Van's? John Lester ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: Empennage fairing
Date: Sep 12, 2006
Take a look at fairings-etc.com. I haven't used them myself but I've heard good things on one of these lists. Bevan RV7A finish kit _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oanoonmeeting(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 6:41 PM Subject: RV7-List: Empennage fairing Does anyone have a recommendation for an empennage fairing that will be easier to fit and/or look better than Van's? John Lester ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 2006
From: Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: Re: Empennage fairing
Van's looks ok. Just trim the forward section to make a nice pleasing line to your eyes. Most of them need minor/ major mods to make them fit well. When all is done you won't see the cuts and patches. Oanoonmeeting(at)aol.com wrote: > > Does anyone have a recommendation for an empennage fairing that > will be easier to fit and/or look better than Van's? > > John Lester > > * > > > * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Franz Fux" <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com>
Subject: Empennage fairing
Date: Sep 13, 2006
My fairing from Vans fit very well after some minor adjustments, which you will have to do on any of them, Franz -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of B Tomm Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 7:02 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV7-List: Empennage fairing Take a look at fairings-etc.com. I haven't used them myself but I've heard good things on one of these lists. Bevan RV7A finish kit ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oanoonmeeting(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 6:41 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: Empennage fairing Does anyone have a recommendation for an empennage fairing that will be easier to fit and/or look better than Van's? John Lester .com/Navigator?RV7-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: IO-390 engine use
Date: Sep 16, 2006
Dear listers, I am one of the many trying to figure out an engine for my RV7. I am interested in the IO-390 engine. If you have installed one of these on your airplane, I would be interested to hear if there are any installation problems compared to the IO-360 series (spacing, cowling attachment, etc) and also how your performance numbers look. Thanks in advance, John Brunke St. Charles, IL N767JB Tail almost completed. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2006
From: Alf Olav Frog <alfolavf(at)online.no>
Subject: Trimtab problems are history!
Hi fellow RV-builders! Hi RV-fellow builders! I live in Norway and am building a RV-7. I've have discovered a GREAT tool for bending soft metal. It's a kind of a plier who makes EXACTLY 90 degree bends with PERFECT turnradius! It's IDEAL for the trimtab, the tabs on the left elevator and other parts where you need a bend. The PERFECT trimtab can be done on FIVE MINUTES! (or maybe even less...) I've posted pics of the plier in the Photo Share section today, however it'll take a few days until the pics are posted I think. The pliar was found in a tinsmith shop (tinman). It's an old tool but SUPERB for the job! Since it'e here in Norway, it also must be possible to find in the US or other parts of the world. I've also sent photos to Mr Bob Avery at Avery Tools, and maybe they'll start making the tool? Happy building (and bending!) builders. Best regards Alf Olav Frog

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2006
From: "Scott Farner" <sfarner(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: IO-390 engine use
John, I have an IO-390 in my -7A. I can't speak for performance numbers yet (although wait a week and I'll see), but my installation is pretty much done. I ran into three issues that were -390 specific. First was the alternator bracket. I have the 60amp internally regulted model from Van's and the supplied bracket didn't line up with the flywheel. It was a pretty easy fix, though. I just flipped it around and riveted on a new piece of angle for the alternator attach hole and sliced the othere one off. It looks like Van's is selling an alternator kit with a bracket that looks more like the one B&C sells now, so this might not be a problem anymore. The prop governor for the -390 is located up front, which is good and bad. Good in that apparently it is easier to run the control cable, but the bracket for holding it can be a bit of a challenge. Check out www.io-390.com. There are a couple of examples of how it can be done. The way I did it is on the contributions page. The biggest headache (relatively speaking) though was the baffling. It will take a little restructuring (at least it did for me) behind cyl #4 as the barrels are physically larger than on the -360. Also, with the prop gov up front, you'll have to do some chopping to get the baffles up there to fit. I didn't have any spacing or engine related cowling issues. I have plenty of clearance between the cowling and exhaust with the -360 setup. All told, most of the issues were minor and should certainly be worth the extra 10-15hp IMHO. We'll see though. Scott www.scottfarner.com RV-7A - Prepping for inspection On 9/16/06, J. Brunke wrote: > > Dear listers, > > I am one of the many trying to figure out an engine for my RV7. I am > interested in the IO-390 engine. If you have installed > one of these on your airplane, I would be interested to hear if there are > any installation problems compared to the > IO-360 series (spacing, cowling attachment, etc) and also how your > performance numbers look. > > Thanks in advance, > > John Brunke > St. Charles, IL > N767JB > Tail almost > completed. > - The RV7-List Email Forum - > to browse > Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, > much more: > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List > - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > the Web Forums! > http://forums.matronics.com > - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - > Wiki! > http://wiki.matronics.com > - List Contribution Web Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2006
From: "vonne van hertum" <stoppnvd(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/19/06
*UNSRIBE ME NOW* *=================* *==================* *================* *==================* *===================* *=====================* *===========================* *=======================* *=======================* *=====================* 2006/9/20, RV7-List Digest Server : > > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-09-19.html > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-09-19.txt > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV7-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Tue 09/19/06: 0 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > -- graag tot ziens op www.stopkindersexnu.nl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "noel anderson" <nandrand(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/19/06
Date: Sep 20, 2006
Vonne. YOU can unsubscribe yourself by scolling down the page to the list web address, and follow the script, it really is easy!!! Or maybe not????!!!!! Noel ----- Original Message ----- From: vonne van hertum To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 7:24 PM Subject: RV7-List: Re: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/19/06 UNSRIBE ME NOW ================ ================= =============== ================= ================== ==================== = ====================== ====================== ==================== 2006/9/20, RV7-List Digest Server : * Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes ====================== EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ====================== ---------------------------------------------------------- RV7-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 09/19/06: 0 ---------------------------------------------------------- -- graag tot ziens op www.stopkindersexnu.nl ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 19/09/2006 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Question about TanksPush down harder on the tank. I know that sounds too simple, but try it. ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott R. Shook To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2006
From: Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Scott, Does the bottom picture on this page look familiar? http://www.rv7factory.com/log/060110.html I asked around too, and I discovered that this was a fairly common issue. At the suggestion of another builder I was able to help the fit somewhat by taking the nose of each of the tank ribs to the deburring wheel to improve their roundness (is that a word?). In other words, by smoothing out the noses of the ribs a little more, I was able to slightly improve their fit into the skin. I also used some ratcheting cargo straps to snug the tank skin to the wing, and I was able to get the screw holes in the skin to align with the holes in the spar without too much pressure. This really helped with the alignment of the tank skin to LE skin correct prior to drilling the W-423 joiner plates. You can see the straps on the wings here... http://www.rv7factory.com/log/060114.html Good luck! Brad Oliver Livermore, CA | RV-7 www.RV7Factory.com > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks > From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> > Date: Thu, September 21, 2006 10:53 am > To: > > Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis& I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most por tion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated&Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
When I do that I can close the gap where the main skin meets, I am concerned thought about stressing the skin when the tanks are mounted for good. Also nothing seems to help the slight gap near the point of the leading edge. _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 11:26 Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Push down harder on the tank. I know that sounds too simple, but try it. ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott R. Shook <mailto:sshook(at)cox.net> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank .com/Navigator?RV7-List ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Question about Tanks
Scott R. Shook wrote: > Fellow Builders, > > I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis > > I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my > Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have > clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put > the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top > main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I > will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to > attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. > > I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws > along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in > the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking > about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. > > Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of > the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most > portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap > along the seam between the tank and L/E. > > Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciatedThank you > > Scott & Jenni > > RV-7A N696JS > > Working on left tank > Did you have any trouble getting clecos through the tank skin into the back baffle? Did all the clecos holding the skin to the ribs go in smoothly & remain perpendicular to the skin around them? (not likely :-) ) Have you built & installed the outboard leading edges yet? Did you see the same problem there? If the rib flanges are standing up even a little it can push the baffle back a bit (will get worse when you put the proseal in there). It's been a while, but I think I saw something similar when I built my tanks, & leading edges, as well. I think I used ratcheting strap clamps, aligned over some of the ribs, to put some pressure on the tank/leading edge. Use 2/4's or something similar to protect the trailing edge of the wing skins & rear spar. If moderate pressure on the straps pulls everything into alignment, try coaxing the LE rib flanges a bit, both around curved portions & the back flange. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Question about TanksCheck to make sure your tank ribs are forced all the way into the nose of the tank skin. That's most likely what at least part of the problem is. )_( Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott R. Shook To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 11:40 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: Question about Tanks When I do that I can close the gap where the main skin meets, I am concerned thought about stressing the skin when the tanks are mounted for good. Also nothing seems to help the slight gap near the point of the leading edge. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 11:26 To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Push down harder on the tank. I know that sounds too simple, but try it. ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott R. Shook To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank .com/Navigator?RV7-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "smitty(at)smittysrv.com" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Subject: Question about Tanks
Hi Scott, I had the same problem with my RV-9A left tank. I put the 1/8 clecos into every hole where the screws go into the spar nutplate holes. Then I started pulling down on each cleco starting at one end and working my way down the line. Eventually the tank skin came down into position. More about it at: http://smittysrv.com/more_stuff.asp?ID=343 Have a goodun! Smitty http://SmittysRV.com Original Message: ----------------- From: Scott R. Shook sshook(at)cox.net Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 10:53:02 -0700 Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
I actually disco vered this little problem and provided the solution to Van's some years ago. jack up the rear spar and you'll hear it pop right into place. there is a thread on the RV List some time ago where someone ground down the bottom of his Z brackets. He didn't need to do that. It's the small sag in the middle that's causing your problem. Bob st. Paul _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 1:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Push down harder on the tank. I know that sounds too simple, but try it. ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott R. Shook <mailto:sshook(at)cox.net> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank .com/Navigator?RV7-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Actually the sag is not there, I have a jack screw in the center of the rear spar that brought everything nicely into place before I put the main skins on the skeleton. I will however break out the fishing line again and make sure my spars have not moved since having the skins on and drilled. _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 12:37 Subject: RE: RV7-List: Question about Tanks I actually disco vered this little problem and provided the solution to Van's some years ago. jack up the rear spar and you'll hear it pop right into place. there is a thread on the RV List some time ago where someone ground down the bottom of his Z brackets. He didn't need to do that. It's the small sag in the middle that's causing your problem. Bob st. Paul _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 1:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Push down harder on the tank. I know that sounds too simple, but try it. ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott R. Shook <mailto:sshook(at)cox.net> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank .com/Navigator?RV7-List .com/Navigator?RV7-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Thank you everyone for all the help and suggestions. I think my first order of business is to pull the tank, take it apart and re-check all my rib flanges and hole alignment (especially around the nose). I did in fact have trouble "wrestling" the tank together. I know that before the ribs went in; the pre-punched holes were triple checked for straightness. I cleco clamped my ruler to them and they were dead nuts on. We certainly appreciate all the advice and help everyone offers. Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on Left Tank _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Yeah, so did I. But on the night went I couldn't get the darned thing to come down properly, I gave it half a crank and heard a "pop" as it fell into place. It's worth a try. it's worked for a lot of othr folks. Bob _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 2:57 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Actually the sag is not there, I have a jack screw in the center of the rear spar that brought everything nicely into place before I put the main skins on the skeleton. I will however break out the fishing line again and make sure my spars have not moved since having the skins on and drilled. _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 12:37 Subject: RE: RV7-List: Question about Tanks I actually disco vered this little problem and provided the solution to Van's some years ago. jack up the rear spar and you'll hear it pop right into place. there is a thread on the RV List some time ago where someone ground down the bottom of his Z brackets. He didn't need to do that. It's the small sag in the middle that's causing your problem. Bob st. Paul _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 1:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Push down harder on the tank. I know that sounds too simple, but try it. ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott R. Shook <mailto:sshook(at)cox.net> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank .com/Navigator?RV7-List .com/Navigator?RV7-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Is your gap the same all the way around? Especially along the splice joint? Or does it widen (or lessen) along the length of the tank or leading edge? Bob _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 2:57 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Actually the sag is not there, I have a jack screw in the center of the rear spar that brought everything nicely into place before I put the main skins on the skeleton. I will however break out the fishing line again and make sure my spars have not moved since having the skins on and drilled. _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 12:37 Subject: RE: RV7-List: Question about Tanks I actually disco vered this little problem and provided the solution to Van's some years ago. jack up the rear spar and you'll hear it pop right into place. there is a thread on the RV List some time ago where someone ground down the bottom of his Z brackets. He didn't need to do that. It's the small sag in the middle that's causing your problem. Bob st. Paul _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 1:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Push down harder on the tank. I know that sounds too simple, but try it. ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott R. Shook <mailto:sshook(at)cox.net> Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks Fellow Builders, I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin and see how that looks before I move forward. I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along the top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates (probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom tank attach holes look like they are lined up fine. Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam between the tank and L/E. Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left tank .com/Navigator?RV7-List .com/Navigator?RV7-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Question about Tanks
Date: Sep 21, 2006
Scott It has been a while but I do remember I had a similar problem. I was able to get them to a 64th gap. Was still determined to get them (aft edge tank to leading edge of top skin to meet. So I called Van's and got Ken................. he said , rather harshly, 'You don't want them to butt to each other". "Why" I asked. "Because the paint will crack along the seam line unless there is enoug room for the paint to fill the gap". My plane isn't painted or flying yet so I can only take him at his word. I have found him always to be correct when I follow his advice. Plus I have found that many times I will take great pains to get everything nearly fiberglass smooth when clecoed only to have a bit of a shift during riveting. So get it close as possible with no stress and move on. Ain't it fun. Frank @ SGU and SLC.....wiring RV7A >From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV7-List: Question about Tanks >Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 11:40:14 -0700 > >When I do that I can close the gap where the main skin meets, I am >concerned >thought about stressing the skin when the tanks are mounted for good. Also >nothing seems to help the slight gap near the point of the leading edge. > > > _____ > >From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway >Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 11:26 >To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV7-List: Question about Tanks > > >Push down harder on the tank. I know that sounds too simple, but try it. >;-) > > >)_( Dan > >RV-7 N714D > >www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: Scott R. Shook <mailto:sshook(at)cox.net> > >To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > >Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:53 AM > >Subject: RV7-List: Question about Tanks > > >Fellow Builders, > >I have a dilemma, here is the synopsis. > >I am currently working on the Left Tank and I have already drilled my Z >brackets (thank you Dan for the easy way of doing it). I have clecoed >together the Tank and the rear baffle to the tank. When I put the tank on >the spar, there is a gap between the tank skin and top main skin. The gap >looks like its somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16. I will see if I can get an >exact measurement tonight, I am also going to attach the bottom main skin >and see how that looks before I move forward. > >I can also see where the holes that will be dimpled for the screws along >the >top of the spar are not exactly lined up with the hole in the nutplates >(probably a distance equal to that gap I am talking about). The bottom >tank >attach holes look like they are lined up fine. > >Also, the leading edge of the tank seems to sit about the thickness of the >skin higher than the leading edge (just at the forward most portion where >the tank and L/E meet). Other than that, there is no gap along the seam >between the tank and L/E. > >Any suggestions or insight will be greatly appreciated.Thank you > >Scott & Jenni > >RV-7A N696JS > >Working on left tank > > >.com/Navigator?RV7-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: IO-360 B1E??
A quick search of the archives turned up a couple of guys using this engine on -8s; is anyone using one on a -7 taildragger? Any major issues? Apparently, this engine has a rear facing injector. Is this a major disadvantage? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 01, 2006
From: "Bert Murillo" <bertrv6(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Trimtab problems are history!
On 9/17/06, Alf Olav Frog wrote: > > Hi fellow RV-builders! > > Hi RV-fellow builders! > > I live in Norway and am building a RV-7. I've have discovered a GREAT tool > for bending soft metal. > It's a kind of a plier who makes EXACTLY 90 degree bends with PERFECT > turnradius! > It's IDEAL for the trimtab, the tabs on the left elevator and other parts > where you need a bend. > The PERFECT trimtab can be done on FIVE MINUTES! (or maybe even less...) > > I've posted pics of the plier in the Photo Share section today, however > it'll take a few days until the pics are posted I think. > > The pliar was found in a tinsmith shop (tinman). > It's an old tool but SUPERB for the job! > Since it'e here in Norway, it also must be possible to find in the US or > other parts of the world. > > I've also sent photos to Mr Bob Avery at Avery Tools, and maybe they'll > start making the tool? > > Happy building (and bending!) builders. > > Best regards Alf Olav Frog > Alf: Sound interesting, I would like to see the photos.. Of course you know, the ones we use in our building projects, here, are 2 kinds. the spring type, that comes in different diameters, you insert the tube, and bend it by hand... the 2nd., the ;most useable is the two handles and the radious circular channel, where the tube is inserted, and with the preasure of the one handle, forms any kind of angle on alumminum tub. Bert

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      > http://forums.matronics.com>
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> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 03, 2006
From: Pat Wilks <patwilks(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: "Unsubscribe"
"Unsubscribe" - dynacam(at)pobox.com -----Original Message----- >From: RV7-List Digest Server <rv7-list(at)matronics.com> >Sent: Oct 2, 2006 11:57 PM >To: RV7-List Digest List >Subject: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/02/06 > >* > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > >Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the >two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted >in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes >and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version >of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor >such as Notepad or with a web browser. > >HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-10-02.html > >Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-10-02.txt > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV7-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon 10/02/06: 0 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > >Today's Message Index: >---------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: "Unsubscribe"
Date: Oct 03, 2006
From: tscaragol(at)aol.com
Please unsubscribe my email on your list and all RV lists. Thanks -----Original Message----- From: patwilks(at)mindspring.com Sent: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 1:13 PM Subject: RV7-List: "Unsubscribe" "Unsubscribe" - dynacam(at)pobox.com -----Original Message----- >From: RV7-List Digest Server <rv7-list(at)matronics.com> >Sent: Oct 2, 2006 11:57 PM >To: RV7-List Digest List >Subject: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/02/06 > >* > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > >Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the >two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted >in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes >and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version >of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor >such as Notepad or with a web browser. > >HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-10-02.html > >Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv7-list/Digest.RV7-List.2006-10-02.txt > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV7-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon 10/02/06: 0 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > >Today's Message Index: >---------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 03, 2006
Subject: [ Alf Olav Frog / Norway ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Alf Olav Frog / Norway Lists: RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List Subject: Trimtab problems are history! http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ao.frog@c2i.net.10.03.2006/index.html ---------------------------------------------------------- o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Trimtab problems are history!
Date: Oct 04, 2006
Dear Alf, I think I may have found the bending pliers you desribed. Here is the link: Http://www.metalforming-usa.com/pdf/tool_bro.pdf If you look at the lower left of page 10 of this pdf file, there is a "Single -Handed Edger". It looks just like the tool in your pictures. Thanks for fowarding your photos. Happy building, John Brunke N767JB, RV7, tip-up ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alf Olav Frog" <alfolavf(at)online.no> Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 2:13 AM Subject: RV7-List: Trimtab problems are history! > Hi fellow RV-builders! > > Hi RV-fellow builders! > > I live in Norway and am building a RV-7. I've have discovered a GREAT tool > for bending soft metal. > It's a kind of a plier who makes EXACTLY 90 degree bends with PERFECT > turnradius! > It's IDEAL for the trimtab, the tabs on the left elevator and other parts > where you need a bend. > The PERFECT trimtab can be done on FIVE MINUTES! (or maybe even less...) > > I've posted pics of the plier in the Photo Share section today, however > it'll take a few days until the pics are posted I think. > > The pliar was found in a tinsmith shop (tinman). > It's an old tool but SUPERB for the job! > Since it'e here in Norway, it also must be possible to find in the US or > other parts of the world. > > I've also sent photos to Mr Bob Avery at Avery Tools, and maybe they'll > start making the tool? > > Happy building (and bending!) builders. > > Best regards Alf Olav Frog > > >

      >
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
      > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      > href="http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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From: price28(at)comcast.net
Subject: Please Unscribe
Date: Oct 04, 2006
 

      
      
      
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Date: Oct 07, 2006
From: <fostersvision(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Please Unscribe
From: price28(at)comcast.net Date: 2006/10/04 Wed PM 03:50:21 CDT Subject: RV7-List: Please Unscribe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don \"Squeak\" Schnarr" <squeak(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Please Unscribe
Date: Oct 08, 2006
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of fostersvision(at)verizon.net Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 9:54 PM Subject: RV7-List: Please Unscribe From: price28(at)comcast.net Date: 2006/10/04 Wed PM 03:50:21 CDT Subject: RV7-List: Please Unscribe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: acceptable defects on universal head rivets??
Just saw this on another list: Per MIL-STD-403C (the revision level of the paper copy [he has]) para 5.2.7.5: "Marring of the manufactured head. A cut or ring caused by the riveting equipment shall be acceptable on non-flush rivets providing the depth of the cut is not greater than one-fourth of the head height. Cut or ringed flush rivets shall not be acceptable." Anybody who's familiar with either mil-spec standards or FAA 'best practices' that knows whether this is valid? I'm not advocating sloppy work, but I can remember drilling out a few 1/8" rivets due to minor errors with the universal set & making a bigger problem when I did it. If the quote above is accurate, I'd bet there are quite a few projects out there that would be better off carrying around a few 'smiles'. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: acceptable defects on universal head rivets??
Date: Oct 10, 2006
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
No smiles on my project....My nose just got longer! Frank -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 1:00 PM Subject: RV7-List: acceptable defects on universal head rivets?? --> Just saw this on another list: Per MIL-STD-403C (the revision level of the paper copy [he has]) para 5.2.7.5: "Marring of the manufactured head. A cut or ring caused by the riveting equipment shall be acceptable on non-flush rivets providing the depth of the cut is not greater than one-fourth of the head height. Cut or ringed flush rivets shall not be acceptable." Anybody who's familiar with either mil-spec standards or FAA 'best practices' that knows whether this is valid? I'm not advocating sloppy work, but I can remember drilling out a few 1/8" rivets due to minor errors with the universal set & making a bigger problem when I did it. If the quote above is accurate, I'd bet there are quite a few projects out there that would be better off carrying around a few 'smiles'. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: acceptable defects on universal head rivets??
Date: Oct 10, 2006
I can't quote mil specs or FAA regs while I'm at work because I don't have them in front of me, but I do know that the Aircraft Structural Technician book that I bought from Cleaveland Tool says roughly the same thing. There are some pretty interesting pictures about how the shop heads should look and smiles on the manufactured head and what is acceptable or not. Quite frankly I was surprised at what was shown to be acceptable. I too have fallen into the trap of trying to drill out rivets that would have been acceptable by this standard and in the process, created other problems. Scott & Jenni RV-7A N696JS Working on left Tank -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 13:00 Subject: RV7-List: acceptable defects on universal head rivets?? Just saw this on another list: Per MIL-STD-403C (the revision level of the paper copy [he has]) para 5.2.7.5: "Marring of the manufactured head. A cut or ring caused by the riveting equipment shall be acceptable on non-flush rivets providing the depth of the cut is not greater than one-fourth of the head height. Cut or ringed flush rivets shall not be acceptable." Anybody who's familiar with either mil-spec standards or FAA 'best practices' that knows whether this is valid? I'm not advocating sloppy work, but I can remember drilling out a few 1/8" rivets due to minor errors with the universal set & making a bigger problem when I did it. If the quote above is accurate, I'd bet there are quite a few projects out there that would be better off carrying around a few 'smiles'. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: acceptable defects on universal head rivets??
Date: Oct 10, 2006
Charlie I remember reading a test on rivet strength. On pull test an ugly nail looking or a universal head was 9\0% as strong as a beautiful one. And lest we forget there is another rivet 1.5" down the road. Stripes 7A 160 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 3:59 PM Subject: RV7-List: acceptable defects on universal head rivets?? > > Just saw this on another list: > > Per MIL-STD-403C (the revision level of the paper copy [he has]) para > 5.2.7.5: > "Marring of the manufactured head. A cut or ring caused by the riveting > equipment shall be acceptable on non-flush rivets providing the depth of > the cut is not greater than one-fourth of the head height. Cut or ringed > flush rivets shall not be acceptable." > > Anybody who's familiar with either mil-spec standards or FAA 'best > practices' that knows whether this is valid? I'm not advocating sloppy > work, but I can remember drilling out a few 1/8" rivets due to minor > errors with the universal set & making a bigger problem when I did it. If > the quote above is accurate, I'd bet there are quite a few projects out > there that would be better off carrying around a few 'smiles'. > > Charlie > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: Tip up canopy latch alternative?
Date: Oct 22, 2006
When I was at the last KLZU EAA690 pancake breakfast, another builder mentioned a tip up canopy latch mod that did not require cutting a slit the side skin. Read: less wind and cold elbows in the cockpit. Naturally, I lose his name and number as I near that step. (Are you listening?) I plan to follow Van's instructions, but I'm curious to hear of mods in this area. I've seen at least one mention of using a car key latch which sounded interesting. Thanks! ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2006
From: Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: Re: Tip up canopy latch alternative?
I have never thought about a cold elbow following Van's instructions, but I have gotten cold arms from the draft that come from the baggage area which comes from the tail via the corrugated baggage wall. Never notice a draft from the slot, it is suppose to be filled with the handle. At least this is my experience in the last few RV's that I have built and flown in -25 degrees F wx. Don Hall wrote: > > > When I was at the last KLZU EAA690 pancake breakfast, another builder > mentioned a tip up canopy latch mod that did not require cutting a slit the > side skin. Read: less wind and cold elbows in the cockpit. Naturally, I > lose his name and number as I near that step. (Are you listening?) > > I plan to follow Van's instructions, but I'm curious to hear of mods in this > area. I've seen at least one mention of using a car key latch which sounded > interesting. > > Thanks! > > ****************************************** > Don Hall > N517DG (registered) > rv7 fuselage > http://rv7.donka.net > ****************************************** > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Tip up canopy latch alternative?
Date: Oct 22, 2006
Don I am not that individual but I did accomplish the task of canopy latch system with out cutting those long rectanglar slits. Old Dodge Dakota truck door parts from the salavage yard provided me the need materials. It didn't save $$$$$$$$$ or time but I sure like it. Key entry on exterior with the door handle for opening on the interior and am also Maybe adding a keyless entry system. Frank @ SGU and SLC wiring and the other stuff to complete my 7A >From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV7-List: Tip up canopy latch alternative? >Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2006 19:36:24 -0400 > > >When I was at the last KLZU EAA690 pancake breakfast, another builder >mentioned a tip up canopy latch mod that did not require cutting a slit the >side skin. Read: less wind and cold elbows in the cockpit. Naturally, I >lose his name and number as I near that step. (Are you listening?) > >I plan to follow Van's instructions, but I'm curious to hear of mods in >this >area. I've seen at least one mention of using a car key latch which >sounded >interesting. > >Thanks! > >****************************************** > Don Hall > N517DG (registered) > rv7 fuselage > http://rv7.donka.net >****************************************** > > _________________________________________________________________ Use your PC to make calls at very low rates https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2006
From: "rv7a.builder" <rv7a.builder(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Transponder antenna location
Hello List, I was thinking of installing the transponder antenna just forward of the F-704 on the passenger side. Will a spinning prop or the tricycle landing gear cause any problem with this location? Thanks JR RV-7A...finishing touches on the electrical system. __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2006
From: Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
On most Pipers, the factory location is about 1 foot behind the firewall in the center. Your prop will not do alot of shadowing damage. Just ensure to follow the guidelines for your transponder manufacturer... Garmin says use low loss coax rg400 or rg142 and keep it under about 8 feet or cable run... at the same time no closer than 3 feet straight line from transponder to the antenna (linear distance traveling thru seats and floor etc).. Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "rv7a.builder" <rv7a.builder(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:25 PM Subject: RV7-List: Transponder antenna location > > Hello List, > > I was thinking of installing the transponder > antenna just forward of the F-704 on the passenger > side. Will a spinning prop or the tricycle landing > gear cause any problem with this location? Thanks JR > RV-7A...finishing touches on the electrical system. > > __________________________________________________ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2006
From: "rv7a.builder" <rv7a.builder(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
Thanks Charlie....JR --- Charles Reiche wrote: > > > On most Pipers, the factory location is about 1 foot > behind the firewall in > the center. Your prop will not do alot of shadowing > damage. > > Just ensure to follow the guidelines for your > transponder manufacturer... > Garmin says use low loss coax rg400 or rg142 and > keep it under about 8 feet > or cable run... at the same time no closer than 3 > feet straight line from > transponder to the antenna (linear distance > traveling thru seats and floor > etc).. > > Charlie > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rv7a.builder" <rv7a.builder(at)yahoo.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:25 PM > Subject: RV7-List: Transponder antenna location > > > > > > > Hello List, > > > > I was thinking of installing the transponder > > antenna just forward of the F-704 on the passenger > > side. Will a spinning prop or the tricycle landing > > gear cause any problem with this location? Thanks > JR > > RV-7A...finishing touches on the electrical > system. > > > > __________________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List > > Web Forums! > > > Admin. > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2006
From: Norman Younie <sa300(at)uniserve.com>
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
A good place to mount it is just aft of the firewall between the exhaust pipes, which puts it just to the left of the electric fuel pump. It will work very well in that location. rv7a.builder wrote: > > Hello List, > > I was thinking of installing the transponder > antenna just forward of the F-704 on the passenger > side. Will a spinning prop or the tricycle landing > gear cause any problem with this location? Thanks JR > RV-7A...finishing touches on the electrical system. > > __________________________________________________ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: XP 400
Date: Oct 25, 2006
Hi group, Just wondering if any 7 builders have gone with the Superior 400 cube engine. Does any one know the power rating and weight ?. Ti install one is the engine mount required the same as suplied by Vans for the 180 H.P. io 360 or the 200 H.P. model. Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2006
From: Ian Pentney <gh6gh6(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: XP 400
The Superior brochure says the XP-400 weighs 316lbs with a compression rati o of 8.5:1 and 210 hp. =0AThe Superior brochure says the XP361 weighs 316 l bs with a compression ratio of 8.7:1 and 200 hp. =0ASo the XP-400 is the sa me weight, 10 more horses lower compression. =0A=0AYou can choose the Type 1 or 2 Dynafocal or conical engine mount. The price is scary high but maybe competition will bring it down. =0A=0AIan=0ARV7 QB=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Paul Walter <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>=0ATo: rv7-list@m atronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 6:58:18 PM=0ASubject: RV7-Li st: XP 400=0A=0A=0AHi group,=0A =0AJust wondering if any 7 builders have go ne with the Superior 400 cube engine. Does any one know the power rating an d weight ?.=0ATi install one is the engine mount required the same as supli ed by Vans for the 180 H.P. io 360 or the 200 H.P. model.=0A =0APaul Walter =====================0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Henderson" <wf-k(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Tip up canopy latch alternative?
Date: Oct 29, 2006
Yes, I am that guy. Sorry it took me so long to answering this message. I got the idea from another builder and I do not mind passing it on at all. Give me a call on my cell 404-432-1245 and I'll give you directions over to the project and you can see it for yourself; no slot, no cold. It is a handle from that Harman Rocket kit - did I spell that right? It only cost about $20 and works GREAT! Why Van doesn't switch, I don't know. Dave Henderson RV-7 N925LW (Lord Willing) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Hall Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 6:36 PM Subject: RV7-List: Tip up canopy latch alternative? When I was at the last KLZU EAA690 pancake breakfast, another builder mentioned a tip up canopy latch mod that did not require cutting a slit the side skin. Read: less wind and cold elbows in the cockpit. Naturally, I lose his name and number as I near that step. (Are you listening?) I plan to follow Van's instructions, but I'm curious to hear of mods in this area. I've seen at least one mention of using a car key latch which sounded interesting. Thanks! ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists...
Dear Listers (Specifically Comcast Listers), For about the last two days, Comcast was blocking incoming email from the Matronics Email Lists because their spam filters thought the mail was spam. I was that people on Comcast are receiving List messages again. If you are a Comcast user, you might want to email them and express your displeasure with their Spam blocking policy, particularly as it relates to "matronics.com". Sorry for the hassle... Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: davcor(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists...
Date: Oct 30, 2006
Matt, What was the email address you used in your dialogue with comcast? I'm a comcast customer and will forward my complaint Thanks for a great list & service Back to rudder pedals... Rolling the canoe soon... Dave N898DC - (rsvd) RV7 - Fuse -------------- Original message -------------- From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> > > > Dear Listers (Specifically Comcast Listers), > > For about the last two days, Comcast was blocking incoming email from the > Matronics Email Lists because their spam filters thought the mail was spam. I > appears that people on Comcast are receiving List messages again. > > If you are a Comcast user, you might want to email them and express your > displeasure with their Spam blocking policy, particularly as it relates to > "matronics.com". > > Sorry for the hassle... > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Admin > > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > > > > >
Matt,
What was the email address you used in your dialogue with comcast? I'm a comcast customer and will forward my complaint
 
Thanks for a great list & service
 
Back to rudder pedals...
Rolling the canoe soon...
 
Dave
N898DC - (rsvd)
RV7 - Fuse
 
 

> --> RV7-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
>
> Dear Listers (Specifically Comcast Listers),
>
> For about the last two days, Comcast was blocking incoming email from the
> Matronics Email Lists because their spam filters thought the mail was spam. I
> was able to finally people on Comcast are receiving List messages again.
>
> If you are a Comcast user, you might want to email them and express your
> displeasure with their Spam blocking policy, particularly as it relates to
> "matronics.com".
>
> Sorry for the hassle...
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Admin
& =====

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2006
From: Reuven Silberman <pilots2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Tires
Group Getting ready to replace the original Vans 500x5 main tires soon and looking for input on choice of next tire. Anyone have any strong feeling for or agains any other tire than Vans? Reuven Silberman RV7A N7WT "No pressure, no diamonds". ~Thomas Carlyle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tires
Date: Oct 30, 2006
Goodyear Flight Custom III amd get some tubes that don't leak. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Reuven Silberman To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: RV7-List: Tires Group Getting ready to replace the original Vans 500x5 main tires soon and looking for input on choice of next tire. Anyone have any strong feeling for or agains any other tire than Vans? Reuven Silberman RV7A N7WT "No pressure, no diamonds". ~Thomas Carlyle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Tires
Date: Oct 30, 2006
I used McCreary AirHawk 6-ply tires for 1000+ hours and grew to like them. Light & cheap. Not the thickest wall tire in the world. Not the most durable in terms of wear, but I was happy with their performance. On this page: http://www.rvproject.com/20051214.html you can see my tire & brake wear trends & stats. I recently switched to Wilkerson RETREAD Goodyear Flight Custom II tires, upon recommendation from another RVator who said they are perfectly balanced and a good value. The value is there imho, but they are F'n A HEAVY compared to the AirHawks. Reportedly they were perfectly balanced...but they are not any better than the AirHawks (at least not on my airplane). They are wearing extremely well, and I suspect I'll get 25-50% more wear out of them than the AirHawks, BUT -- I'm switching back to the AirHawks after this set wears out. I have no desire to lug around another 3-5 pounds of rubber. I'll take the cheapies. Not to be confused with the bottom of the line AeroTrainer or whatever...the AirHawk is a small step above those. If I landed on unimproved strips on a regular basis, I'd probably prefer the heavier, thicker wall stuff. But I don't. I land on smooth tarmac 99.9% of the time. I use Michelin AirStop tubes exclusively and swear by them. I check pressure every 100 hours or so and usually it hasn't changed but 2 psi. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1120 hours) www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 5:57 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tires Goodyear Flight Custom III amd get some tubes that don't leak. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Reuven Silberman To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: RV7-List: Tires Group Getting ready to replace the original Vans 500x5 main tires soon and looking for input on choice of next tire. Anyone have any strong feeling for or agains any other tire than Vans? Reuven Silberman RV7A N7WT "No pressure, no diamonds". ~Thomas Carlyle href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: Re: Tires
Date: Oct 30, 2006
Jerry ... Re: the Goodyear Flight Custom III, have you noticed a more solid feel with these tires? Are there any differences with them that improve ground ops? Thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV8A Electrical ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 7:57 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tires Goodyear Flight Custom III amd get some tubes that don't leak. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Reuven Silberman To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: RV7-List: Tires Group Getting ready to replace the original Vans 500x5 main tires soon and looking for input on choice of next tire. Anyone have any strong feeling for or agains any other tire than Vans? Reuven Silberman RV7A N7WT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: Tires
Date: Oct 30, 2006
How much bigger are the Flight Custom III's compared with the Airhawks? I w as thinking about going FC III when my first set is worn out, but I'd like to build enough room into my wheelpants to take them. Mark www.4sierratango.com From: jerry(at)mc.netTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV7-List: TiresDat Jerry ... Re: the Goodyear Flight Custom III, have you noticed a more solid feel wi th these tires? Are there any differences with them that improve ground op s? Thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV8A Electrical ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 7:57 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tires Goodyear Flight Custom III amd get some tubes that don't leak. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Reuven Silberman Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: RV7-List: Tires GroupGetting ready to replace the original Vans 500x5 main tires soon and l ooking for input on choice of next tire. Anyone have any strong feeling fo r or agains any other tire than Vans?Reuven SilbermanRV7AN7WT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net>
Subject: Re: TiresTiresTires
Date: Oct 31, 2006
How well does the small tire size work on backcountry strips? I enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of the strips I have been bypassing. I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher strips very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one remove the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires for those backcountry occasions? Larry Tompkins Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. TomkinsL(at)integra.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2006
From: Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: TiresTiresTires
Larry, The stock Van's axle is too short for 6" wheels and tires. A larger axle length can be special ordered. I don't have the gents name with me here at work but if your interested let me know and I will post the info later. I have a set of gear legs ordered so that I can run the 6" wheels with larger tires. Of course this opens up all sorts of other concerns, increased drag, increased weight, wheel pants won't fit etc. But with the increased diameter and width of the larger tires increasing the non-standard airport safety I believe it is a good trade off. I had the same concerns as you with non-standard airports, in Alaska there are a lot of them. Mike Ice RV-9 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:36 am Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > How well does the small tire size work on backcountry strips? I > enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the > shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of the > strips I have been bypassing. > > I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher strips > very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one remove > the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires for > those backcountry occasions? > > Larry Tompkins > > Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. > > TomkinsL(at)integra.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: TiresTiresTires
Date: Oct 31, 2006
I would like info on the larger axle length. For us Nose draggers, is anyone aware of a supplier or interested in producing a larger nose wheel fork? Bevan RV7A finish kit _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 9:45 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires Larry, The stock Van's axle is too short for 6" wheels and tires. A larger axle length can be special ordered. I don't have the gents name with me here at work but if your interested let me know and I will post the info later. I have a set of gear legs ordered so that I can run the 6" wheels with larger tires. Of course this opens up all sorts of other concerns, increased drag, increased weight, wheel pants won't fit etc. But with the increased diameter and width of the larger tires increasing the non-standard airport safety I believe it is a good trade off. I had the same concerns as you with non-standard airports, in Alaska there are a lot of them. Mike Ice RV-9 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:36 am Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > How well does the small tire size work on backcountry strips? I > enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the > shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of the > strips I have been bypassing. > > I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher strips > very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one remove > the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires for > those backcountry occasions? > > Larry Tompkins > > Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. > > TomkinsL(at)integra.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tires
Date: Oct 31, 2006
I can't measure with wheelpant on, but they are bigger. The diameter is about 14" and I enlarged the opening a little. Jerry Calvert RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Taylor To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 10:23 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: Tires How much bigger are the Flight Custom III's compared with the Airhawks? I was thinking about going FC III when my first set is worn out, but I'd like to build enough room into my wheelpants to take them. Mark www.4sierratango.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: jerry(at)mc.net To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tires Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 22:01:09 -0600 Jerry ... Re: the Goodyear Flight Custom III, have you noticed a more solid feel with these tires? Are there any differences with them that improve ground ops? Thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV8A Electrical ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 7:57 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tires Goodyear Flight Custom III amd get some tubes that don't leak. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Reuven Silberman To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: RV7-List: Tires Group Getting ready to replace the original Vans 500x5 main tires soon and looking for input on choice of next tire. Anyone have any strong feeling for or agains any other tire than Vans? Reuven Silberman RV7A N7WT et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com //wiki.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tires
Date: Oct 31, 2006
They is definately a more solid feel. I do notice an improvement in ground ops, but the real treat is in landing. I like to wheel land I like how it handles with the FC III's. Jerry Calvert RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Grimmonpre To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 10:01 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tires Jerry ... Re: the Goodyear Flight Custom III, have you noticed a more solid feel with these tires? Are there any differences with them that improve ground ops? Thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV8A Electrical ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 7:57 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tires Goodyear Flight Custom III amd get some tubes that don't leak. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Reuven Silberman To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: RV7-List: Tires Group Getting ready to replace the original Vans 500x5 main tires soon and looking for input on choice of next tire. Anyone have any strong feeling for or agains any other tire than Vans? Reuven Silberman RV7A N7WT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2006
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires
Bevan, Larry, Mr. Harmon Lange makes the gear legs for Van's. If you call him and explain to him what you want to do he can make the gear legs for you with the axle 1 " longer. Also Robbie Grove at Grove Aircraft has a great wheel and brake package for the 6" wheels with the 1.25" diameter axles. Harmon Lange telephone 503-397-1478 Grove Aircraft 619-562-1268 I don't know where you can get a larger nose wheel fork. I am looking for a larger tail wheel fork so that I can use a pneumatic wheel and tire combination along the lines of a "Scott" tail wheel. Mike RV-9 Electrical and then Finish Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:06 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires I would like info on the larger axle length. For us Nose draggers, is anyone aware of a supplier or interested in producing a larger nose wheel fork? Bevan RV7A finish kit ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 9:45 AM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires Larry, The stock Van's axle is too short for 6" wheels and tires. A larger axle length can be special ordered. I don't have the gents name with me here at work but if your interested let me know and I will post the info later. I have a set of gear legs ordered so that I can run the 6" wheels with larger tires. Of course this opens up all sorts of other concerns, increased drag, increased weight, wheel pants won't fit etc. But with the increased diameter and width of the larger tires increasing the non-standard airport safety I believe it is a good trade off. I had the same concerns as you with non-standard airports, in Alaska there are a lot of them. Mike Ice RV-9 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:36 am Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > How well does the small tire size work on backcountry strips? I > enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the > shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of the > strips I have been bypassing. > > I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher strips > very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one remove > the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires for > those backcountry occasions? > > Larry Tompkins > > Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. > > TomkinsL(at)integra.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires
Date: Nov 01, 2006
And then the question would be... With longer axles, would Van's standard wheel pants fit when you take your 6s off and you're using your 5s? )_( Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael T. Ice To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 6:58 AM Subject: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires Bevan, Larry, Mr. Harmon Lange makes the gear legs for Van's. If you call him and explain to him what you want to do he can make the gear legs for you with the axle 1 " longer. Also Robbie Grove at Grove Aircraft has a great wheel and brake package for the 6" wheels with the 1.25" diameter axles. Harmon Lange telephone 503-397-1478 Grove Aircraft 619-562-1268 I don't know where you can get a larger nose wheel fork. I am looking for a larger tail wheel fork so that I can use a pneumatic wheel and tire combination along the lines of a "Scott" tail wheel. Mike RV-9 Electrical and then Finish Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:06 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires I would like info on the larger axle length. For us Nose draggers, is anyone aware of a supplier or interested in producing a larger nose wheel fork? Bevan RV7A finish kit ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 9:45 AM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires Larry, The stock Van's axle is too short for 6" wheels and tires. A larger axle length can be special ordered. I don't have the gents name with me here at work but if your interested let me know and I will post the info later. I have a set of gear legs ordered so that I can run the 6" wheels with larger tires. Of course this opens up all sorts of other concerns, increased drag, increased weight, wheel pants won't fit etc. But with the increased diameter and width of the larger tires increasing the non-standard airport safety I believe it is a good trade off. I had the same concerns as you with non-standard airports, in Alaska there are a lot of them. Mike Ice RV-9 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:36 am Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > How well does the small tire size work on backcountry strips? I > enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the > shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of the > strips I have been bypassing. > > I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher strips > very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one remove > the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires for > those backcountry occasions? > > Larry Tompkins > > Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. > > TomkinsL(at)integra.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2006
From: Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires
Dan, Of course not. Or probably not, I just assumed no, I have not checked into it. Once you take this path you initiate the cascade effect where one change causes many changes. Mission profiles dictate changes and where I intend to operate this aircraft, larger tires and possibly skiis will benifit from the longer axle. Many of the airports in Alaska are gravel and I use that term loosely, rocks over 2" in diameter shouldn't be called gravel, or the surface of the runway is very soft and the additional flotation of the larger tire size will be safer for operations. I agree with any statements that this will cause additional drag and expense and time. I also agree the RV-9 is not meant to be a "Bush" plane but I think it may prove to be very good in this environment. Respectfully, Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com> Date: Wednesday, November 1, 2006 6:48 am Subject: Re: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires > And then the question would be... > > With longer axles, would Van's standard wheel pants fit when you > take your 6s off and you're using your 5s? > > )_( Dan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael T. Ice > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 6:58 AM > Subject: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires > > > Bevan, Larry, > > Mr. Harmon Lange makes the gear legs for Van's. If you call him > and explain to him what you want to do he can make the gear legs > for you with the axle 1 " longer. Also Robbie Grove at Grove > Aircraft has a great wheel and brake package for the 6" wheels > with the 1.25" diameter axles. > > Harmon Lange telephone 503-397-1478 > Grove Aircraft 619-562-1268 > > I don't know where you can get a larger nose wheel fork. I am > looking for a larger tail wheel fork so that I can use a pneumatic > wheel and tire combination along the lines of a "Scott" tail > wheel. > > Mike > RV-9 Electrical and then Finish Kit > ----- Original Message ----- > From: B Tomm > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:06 PM > Subject: RE: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > > > I would like info on the larger axle length. For us Nose > draggers, is anyone aware of a supplier or interested in producing > a larger nose wheel fork? > > Bevan > RV7A finish kit > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > --------- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7- > list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 9:45 AM > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > > > Larry, > > The stock Van's axle is too short for 6" wheels and tires. A > larger axle length can be special ordered. I don't have the gents > name with me here at work but if your interested let me know and I > will post the info later. I have a set of gear legs ordered so > that I can run the 6" wheels with larger tires. Of course this > opens up all sorts of other concerns, increased drag, increased > weight, wheel pants won't fit etc. But with the increased diameter > and width of the larger tires increasing the non-standard airport > safety I believe it is a good trade off. I had the same concerns > as you with non-standard airports, in Alaska there are a lot of them. > > Mike Ice > > RV-9 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> > Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:36 am > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > > > How well does the small tire size work on backcountry > strips? I > > enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the > > shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of > the > > strips I have been bypassing. > > > > I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher > strips > > very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one > remove > > the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires > for > > those backcountry occasions? > > > > Larry Tompkins > > > > Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. > > > > TomkinsL(at)integra.net > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2006
From: Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires
Dan, Oops, I forgot, I wont have 5 inch wheels and tires. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com> Date: Wednesday, November 1, 2006 6:48 am Subject: Re: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires > And then the question would be... > > With longer axles, would Van's standard wheel pants fit when you > take your 6s off and you're using your 5s? > > )_( Dan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael T. Ice > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 6:58 AM > Subject: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires > > > Bevan, Larry, > > Mr. Harmon Lange makes the gear legs for Van's. If you call him > and explain to him what you want to do he can make the gear legs > for you with the axle 1 " longer. Also Robbie Grove at Grove > Aircraft has a great wheel and brake package for the 6" wheels > with the 1.25" diameter axles. > > Harmon Lange telephone 503-397-1478 > Grove Aircraft 619-562-1268 > > I don't know where you can get a larger nose wheel fork. I am > looking for a larger tail wheel fork so that I can use a pneumatic > wheel and tire combination along the lines of a "Scott" tail > wheel. > > Mike > RV-9 Electrical and then Finish Kit > ----- Original Message ----- > From: B Tomm > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:06 PM > Subject: RE: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > > > I would like info on the larger axle length. For us Nose > draggers, is anyone aware of a supplier or interested in producing > a larger nose wheel fork? > > Bevan > RV7A finish kit > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > --------- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7- > list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 9:45 AM > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > > > Larry, > > The stock Van's axle is too short for 6" wheels and tires. A > larger axle length can be special ordered. I don't have the gents > name with me here at work but if your interested let me know and I > will post the info later. I have a set of gear legs ordered so > that I can run the 6" wheels with larger tires. Of course this > opens up all sorts of other concerns, increased drag, increased > weight, wheel pants won't fit etc. But with the increased diameter > and width of the larger tires increasing the non-standard airport > safety I believe it is a good trade off. I had the same concerns > as you with non-standard airports, in Alaska there are a lot of them. > > Mike Ice > > RV-9 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> > Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:36 am > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > > > How well does the small tire size work on backcountry > strips? I > > enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the > > shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of > the > > strips I have been bypassing. > > > > I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher > strips > > very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one > remove > > the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires > for > > those backcountry occasions? > > > > Larry Tompkins > > > > Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. > > > > TomkinsL(at)integra.net > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics Email List Fund Raiser - November!
Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's through these sole Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site ( http://forums.matronics.com ), Wiki site ( http://wiki.matronics.com ), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matornics.com/search ), List Browse ( http://www.matornics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisments. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every few days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. Each message will generally highlight a particular feature or benefit of the Matronics Lists or detail a new feature or service that was added this year. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises aka Kitlog Pro (http://www.kitlog.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/). These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Paul, Andy, and Jon for their generous support of the Lists again this year!! You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below: https://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years. I know it sounds a little cliche, but you guys really do feel like family. Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires
Date: Nov 01, 2006
Mike, All the power to you for doing it your way! But...now of course I do expect to see you & your -9 in one of the sequences in Big Rocks & Long Props, Volume 3. 8^) http://www.bigrockslongprops.com http://bentpropproductions.com (if anybody hasn't seen Vol 1, check it out, it's wild! I'm getting Vol 2 soon...) )_( Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Ice To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 9:49 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires Dan, Of course not. Or probably not, I just assumed no, I have not checked into it. Once you take this path you initiate the cascade effect where one change causes many changes. Mission profiles dictate changes and where I intend to operate this aircraft, larger tires and possibly skiis will benifit from the longer axle. Many of the airports in Alaska are gravel and I use that term loosely, rocks over 2" in diameter shouldn't be called gravel, or the surface of the runway is very soft and the additional flotation of the larger tire size will be safer for operations. I agree with any statements that this will cause additional drag and expense and time. I also agree the RV-9 is not meant to be a "Bush" plane but I think it may prove to be very good in this environment. Respectfully, Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com> Date: Wednesday, November 1, 2006 6:48 am Subject: Re: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > And then the question would be... > > With longer axles, would Van's standard wheel pants fit when you > take your 6s off and you're using your 5s? > > )_( Dan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael T. Ice > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 6:58 AM > Subject: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires > > > Bevan, Larry, > > Mr. Harmon Lange makes the gear legs for Van's. If you call him > and explain to him what you want to do he can make the gear legs > for you with the axle 1 " longer. Also Robbie Grove at Grove > Aircraft has a great wheel and brake package for the 6" wheels > with the 1.25" diameter axles. > > Harmon Lange telephone 503-397-1478 > Grove Aircraft 619-562-1268 > > I don't know where you can get a larger nose wheel fork. I am > looking for a larger tail wheel fork so that I can use a pneumatic > wheel and tire combination along the lines of a "Scott" tail > wheel. > > Mike > RV-9 Electrical and then Finish Kit > ----- Original Message ----- > From: B Tomm > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:06 PM > Subject: RE: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > > > I would like info on the larger axle length. For us Nose > draggers, is anyone aware of a supplier or interested in producing > a larger nose wheel fork? > > Bevan > RV7A finish kit > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > --------- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7- > list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 9:45 AM > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > > > Larry, > > The stock Van's axle is too short for 6" wheels and tires. A > larger axle length can be special ordered. I don't have the gents > name with me here at work but if your interested let me know and I > will post the info later. I have a set of gear legs ordered so > that I can run the 6" wheels with larger tires. Of course this > opens up all sorts of other concerns, increased drag, increased > weight, wheel pants won't fit etc. But with the increased diameter > and width of the larger tires increasing the non-standard airport > safety I believe it is a good trade off. I had the same concerns > as you with non-standard airports, in Alaska there are a lot of them. > > Mike Ice > > RV-9 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> > Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:36 am > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > > > How well does the small tire size work on backcountry > strips? I > > enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the > > shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of > the > > strips I have been bypassing. > > > > I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher > strips > > very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one > remove > > the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires > for > > those backcountry occasions? > > > > Larry Tompkins > > > > Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. > > > > TomkinsL(at)integra.net > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2006
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires
Dan, Many thanks for the vote of confidence ( I think) but you won't see the 9 in any of those video's. On the other hand you will see the 9 at : Serpentine Hot Springs www.nps.gov/archive/bela/html/serpent.htm or www.cordovaalaska.com or www.yakutat.net . Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Checkoway To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 8:14 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires Mike, All the power to you for doing it your way! But...now of course I do expect to see you & your -9 in one of the sequences in Big Rocks & Long Props, Volume 3. 8^) http://www.bigrockslongprops.com http://bentpropproductions.com (if anybody hasn't seen Vol 1, check it out, it's wild! I'm getting Vol 2 soon...) )_( Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Ice To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 9:49 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires Dan, Of course not. Or probably not, I just assumed no, I have not checked into it. Once you take this path you initiate the cascade effect where one change causes many changes. Mission profiles dictate changes and where I intend to operate this aircraft, larger tires and possibly skiis will benifit from the longer axle. Many of the airports in Alaska are gravel and I use that term loosely, rocks over 2" in diameter shouldn't be called gravel, or the surface of the runway is very soft and the additional flotation of the larger tire size will be safer for operations. I agree with any statements that this will cause additional drag and expense and time. I also agree the RV-9 is not meant to be a "Bush" plane but I think it may prove to be very good in this environment. Respectfully, Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com> Date: Wednesday, November 1, 2006 6:48 am Subject: Re: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > And then the question would be... > > With longer axles, would Van's standard wheel pants fit when you > take your 6s off and you're using your 5s? > > )_( Dan > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael T. Ice > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 6:58 AM > Subject: RV7-List: Gear legs was Tires Tires Tires > > > Bevan, Larry, > > Mr. Harmon Lange makes the gear legs for Van's. If you call him > and explain to him what you want to do he can make the gear legs > for you with the axle 1 " longer. Also Robbie Grove at Grove > Aircraft has a great wheel and brake package for the 6" wheels > with the 1.25" diameter axles. > > Harmon Lange telephone 503-397-1478 > Grove Aircraft 619-562-1268 > > I don't know where you can get a larger nose wheel fork. I am > looking for a larger tail wheel fork so that I can use a pneumatic > wheel and tire combination along the lines of a "Scott" tail > wheel. > > Mike > RV-9 Electrical and then Finish Kit > ----- Original Message ----- > From: B Tomm > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:06 PM > Subject: RE: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > > > I would like info on the larger axle length. For us Nose > draggers, is anyone aware of a supplier or interested in producing > a larger nose wheel fork? > > Bevan > RV7A finish kit > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > --------- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7- > list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Ice > Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 9:45 AM > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > > > Larry, > > The stock Van's axle is too short for 6" wheels and tires. A > larger axle length can be special ordered. I don't have the gents > name with me here at work but if your interested let me know and I > will post the info later. I have a set of gear legs ordered so > that I can run the 6" wheels with larger tires. Of course this > opens up all sorts of other concerns, increased drag, increased > weight, wheel pants won't fit etc. But with the increased diameter > and width of the larger tires increasing the non-standard airport > safety I believe it is a good trade off. I had the same concerns > as you with non-standard airports, in Alaska there are a lot of them. > > Mike Ice > > RV-9 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net> > Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:36 am > Subject: Re: RV7-List: TiresTiresTires > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > > > How well does the small tire size work on backcountry > strips? I > > enjoy going to Idaho in my Cherokee 180, but hope to put the > > shorter field capability of the -7 to use to get to some of > the > > strips I have been bypassing. > > > > I am concerned that the small tires won't handle rougher > strips > > very well. Are the wheel pants easy to get off? Could one > remove > > the wheel pants and put on a spare mounted set of 6" tires > for > > those backcountry occasions? > > > > Larry Tompkins > > > > Installing antennas and wiring in wings, fuselage next. > > > > TomkinsL(at)integra.net > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Have You Tried The New Matronics List Forum?
Hello Listers, One of the major new additions to the Matronics Email Lists this year was the addition of a new and full function Forum Web Site at: http://forums.matronics.com The best part of these new Forums is that they are tied directly to the Classic email distribution Lists! That also means that posts go in both directions. If you post a message on the Forum web site, it will be cross posted to the respective Email List. And, if you post a message to a particular Email List, it will be cross posted to the same respective forum on the Forum site! So, no matter what your content viewing pleasure is - either direct email distribution or web-based GUI interface, you can have it at the Matronics Email Lists! Won't you make a Contribution to support these Lists? It is your SOLE Contributions that make their continued operation and upgrade possible! The Contribution site is Fast, Easy, and Secure. Please surf over and make your Contribution today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator _- _- _- _- _- _- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2006
From: Larry Rush <k9hxt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Fw: RV-6A brake squealing
Subject: RV-6A brake squealing=0A=0A=0AHas anyone had a problem with squeal ing brakes during use? One side seems to be more prone to this than the oth er. New pads at annual in Sept too. This is not new. I have had it for q uite some time, years. I read a thread recently about securing the brake lines to gear legs in more than three places, say 5 or 6. Seems to chang e depending on air pressure in tires too.=0ALarry , RV-6A, at 2R2, near Av -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com>
Subject: Z-bracket height
Date: Nov 04, 2006
I'm working on my -7A wings and am to the point of drilling the Z-brackets. The problem is that the Z-brackets seem to be a little bit too high. I've got about 3/64 gap between the trailing edge of the tank skin and the leading edge of the main skin. Does anyone know if this is normal or will it close up when screwing the tank to the spar? I can close the gap by pressing the tank towards the spar with 30-40 lbs of force, but I can see that it flexes the baffle slightly in the process. Thanks, Mike _- _- _- _- _- _- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Z-bracket height
Date: Nov 04, 2006
Mike I had this situation. I believe it was Ken at Van's that said a little gap creats a better line for paint. He said that when the aft forward skins butts up to the forward edge of the aft skins that there is a greater chance of the paint cracking along this line. My plane isn't painted yet so I can"t verify his claim.I know that some have gone to extordinary lengths to get them to butt with no space. Frank @ sgu and slc..........wiring / fiberglass / >From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV7-List: Z-bracket height >Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2006 20:27:54 -0500 > > > >I'm working on my -7A wings and am to the point of drilling the Z-brackets. >The problem is that the Z-brackets seem to be a little bit too high. I've >got about 3/64 gap between the trailing edge of the tank skin and the >leading >edge of the main skin. Does anyone know if this is normal or will it close >up when screwing the tank to the spar? I can close the gap by pressing the >tank towards the spar with 30-40 lbs of force, but I can see that it flexes >the baffle slightly in the process. > >Thanks, > >Mike > > _________________________________________________________________ All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC. Get a free 90-day trial! http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwlo0050000002msn/direct/01/?href=http://www.windowsonecare.com/?sc_cid=msn_hotmail _- _- _- _- _- _- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Wow, Cool! New List Feature... [Please Read]
Dear Listers, By popular suggestion, I've written a substantial new code module for the Matronics Email Lists system. Here's how it works... During each November, I send out quite a few PBS-like "Please make a Contribution to support your List" emails. Wouldn't it be cool if, once a member made a Contribution, they didn't have to receive my support pleas anymore for the rest of that year? Well, that's exactly what I've written! Following this posting, anyone that makes a List Contribution in 2006 will no longer receive my Contribution Pleas for the rest of the year! The best part is this not only applies to the Realtime distribution, but also the Digest distribution! For those that have made a Contribution, the Daily Digest email-version will be invisibly stripped of my requests as well! (Note that my requests will still be present in the online versions of the Digests, List Browse, and on the Forum site.) For those submitting their Contribution by personal Check, please be sure to include your email address along with your Check as this is what is used to determine eligibility. So, in a nutshell, here's how it works: Make a Contribution = No more "Please Make a Contribution" messages! How sweet is that? If that's not a great reason to jump on the Matronics Email List Contribution site and make your donation today, I don't know what is! Don't forget that there are some totally awesome free gifts to be had along with your List Contribution this year!! Don't wait a minute longer to support your Lists! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you for your Support!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Flush Latch Source ?
Date: Nov 06, 2006
Does anyone know where to find this latch. It's very simple and clean and I would like to use it for an oil door latch. Saw it on a Micco a couple of weeks ago. The link below is to a Fairchild Fasteners catalog but I can't seem to find a source. Any help appreciated. http://www-glast.slac.stanford.edu/MechanicalSystems/Analysis/References/Ven dor/Other/camloc_ram-h.pdf Thanks Bill S 7a engine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Henderson" <wf-k(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Flush Latch Source ?
Date: Nov 07, 2006
Yes, that is what I used. B&B Sales sell them, $5.00 each. They work VERY well. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 8:06 PM Subject: RV7-List: Flush Latch Source ? Does anyone know where to find this latch. It's very simple and clean and I would like to use it for an oil door latch. Saw it on a Micco a couple of weeks ago. The link below is to a Fairchild Fasteners catalog but I can't seem to find a source. Any help appreciated. <http://www-glast.slac.stanford.edu/MechanicalSystems/Analysis/References /Ve ndor/Other/camloc_ram-h.pdf> http://www-glast.slac.stanford.edu/MechanicalSystems/Analysis/References/ Ven dor/Other/camloc_ram-h.pdf <<...>> Thanks Bill S 7a engine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net>
Subject: Re: Flush Latch Source ?
Date: Nov 07, 2006
Flush Latch Source ? ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Henderson To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com ; RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 7:52 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: Flush Latch Source ? Does B&B Sales have a Web sight? Yes, that is what I used. B&B Sales sell them, $5.00 each. They work VERY well. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 8:06 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: Flush Latch Source ? Does anyone know where to find this latch. It's very simple and clean and I would like to use it for an oil door latch. Saw it on a Micco a couple of weeks ago. The link below is to a Fairchild Fasteners catalog but I can't seem to find a source. Any help appreciated. http://www-glast.slac.stanford.edu/MechanicalSystems/Analysis/References/ Vendor/Other/camloc_ram-h.pdf <<...>> Thanks Bill S 7a engine ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: If You Got This Email, You Haven't Made A Contribution Yet!
:-) If you received this particular Matronics List Email message, its because you haven't yet made a Contribution to support your Lists! This is the first PBS-like funds drive message under the new distribution system. The new system selectively sends out the Contribution messages ONLY to those that forgot to whip out the 'ol credit card this year to support the continued operation and upgrade of the Matronics Email Lists! Don't you wish PBS worked that way? :-) You heard that right. Once you make your Contribution, these support requests messages during November will suddenly stop coming to your personal email inbox! Pardon me if I seem kind of excited about the new feature. I've wanted to implement something like this for a number of years now, but it was always such a daunting task to modify the back-end List processing code, that I just kept putting it off. Finally this year, I just decided to bite the bullet and put the code-pounding time it to make it work. A few days later, bam! A working system! Anyway, I'll stop gushing now. I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware and software that are required to run a List Site like this. It also goes to pay for the Commercial-Grade Internet connection and to pay the rather huge electric bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered up. Your personal Contribution matters because when combined with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercialism that is so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List site. I'm pretty sure you don't either. If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email Lists, please make a Contribution today to keep it that way!! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Flush Latch Source ?
Date: Nov 08, 2006
Looks like a Cessna Oil Door Latch. Wouldn't know where to find one but a phone call to ACS or another dealer might yield some results. _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 18:06 Subject: RV7-List: Flush Latch Source ? Does anyone know where to find this latch. It's very simple and clean and I would like to use it for an oil door latch. Saw it on a Micco a couple of weeks ago. The link below is to a Fairchild Fasteners catalog but I can't seem to find a source. Any help appreciated. <http://www-glast.slac.stanford.edu/MechanicalSystems/Analysis/References/Ve ndor/Other/camloc_ram-h.pdf> http://www-glast.slac.stanford.edu/MechanicalSystems/Analysis/References/Ven dor/Other/camloc_ram-h.pdf <<...>> Thanks Bill S 7a engine ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Clarification On New Contribution Module Operation...
Dear Listers, A number of Listers emailed and indicated that, even though they had made a Contribution this year, they still received the Contribution message yesterday. I looked into it and I found a slight anomaly (ok, bug) in the new code specifically as it related to Listers that had made their Contribution through PayPal AND have a DIFFERENT email address for their PayPal account and for their Matronics List subscription. If your PayPal account email address is DIFFERENT than the email address you are subscribed to the Matronics List(s) as, then my new code module couldn't tell that you had made a Contribution, since it was using the PayPal email address instead of the List email. I've fixed this issue for any new PayPal Contributions, but I don't have any easy way of resolving this for any of the previous Contribtuions. Again, this is ONLY an issue if your PayPal and Matronics List email addresses ARE NOT the same. Otherwise, everything works great. If you made a PayPal Contribution before 11/09/06 AND your email addresses don't match, please drop me an email at " info(at)matronics.com " (do not reply to this message!) and give me your Name, and both Email Addresses and I will manually update the records so that things will work as advertised. Sorry for the hassle! New code; new bugs... :-) To make a Contribution, please see: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administration ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Wiki...
Dear Listers, I added a new Wiki web site to the Matronics Email List features earlier this year. What's a Wiki, you ask? Well, here's the Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki) definition: A wiki (IPA: [ w .ki ] or [ wi .ki ] ) is a type of Web site that allows the visitors themselves to easily add, remove, and otherwise edit and change some available content, sometimes without the need for registration. This ease of interaction and operation makes a wiki an effective tool for collaborative authoring. The term wiki also can refer to the collaborative software itself (wiki engine) that facilitates the operation of such a Web site, or to certain specific wiki sites, including the computer science site (an original wiki), WikiWikiWeb, and on-line encyclopedias such as Wikipedia. Under the Matronics Email List Moniker, there is now a very nice List-specific Wiki available! It a place for Listers to put articles about any aviation topic that suits them. The purpose is to provide what the mailing lists do not: structure and persistence. The mailing lists are a fantastic resource to ask a question and get good (and bad and funny and annoying) answers. But once the question is asked and answered it is not in front of the List anymore. If a new person subscribes the next day, he/she does not see that information unless he/she goes to the trouble to search the archives, a hit or miss proposition. The result is that the same thread of conversation gets created and/or revisited. There are several things that happen as a result: 1. The person gets his or her question answered; 2. The information gets better as more people think about and answer the question; 3. The people who have seen the same question asked and answered get annoyed at seeing the same things over and over and over and ... So this is where the Wiki comes in. You know what questions you wanted answered. You may have asked or answered the question. You know the information is useful. So you put the information here, in the Matronics Email List Wiki! It doesn't matter that this information is 100% complete or correct. Just writing something creates a placeholder and makes useful information available immediately. It has the same immediacy as the mailing list but it has persistence and structure. But what if the information is incomplete or incorrect? No problem! Anyone else coming along can edit the article! If I write something and you discover something I have left out or stated incorrectly, you can fix it right then! So let's begin and make this the place for information about building, flying, maintaining, and understanding our airplanes. But what about whether something is "appropriate" or not? Don't worry. Write it down. Let the reader determine whether or not it is appropriate. If it is, he/she will read it. If it isn't, he/she won't. It's as simple as that. And when you do write that article you won't have to worry about whether some editor is going to decide whether or not to print it in a newsletter or whether the webmaster will have time to put it up on the web page. The last question I hear brewing out there is: if anyone can post anything, won't this just become a mass of garbage? Surprisingly, the answer is a resounding no. If you want proof, go visit the Wikipedia, a free-to-everyone encyclopedia written by whoever wants to write articles. The articles there are as good as anything I have read anywhere and anyone can add anything anytime they want to. So don't hesitate. Write it down. Put it here. It will never hurt anyone. The more information we get here, the more useful it will become to other people and the more information they will put here for YOU to use. Here's the URL to start (there are lots more bured under this starting place): http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Matronics:Community_Portal But please don't forget that this Wiki and all of the other Matronics Email List features are supported solely by YOUR Contributions!! November is List Fund Raiser month and there are lots of Free Gifts to be had with your qualifying Contribution. Please make a Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great services!!! Thank you! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2006
From: "Jim Econome" <econome(at)gmail.com>
Subject: FALCO for Sale
I am selling My Falco: Great airplane, great price Pics and info: http://n7b.tripod.com/index.html Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: WLAS [Please Read]
Dear Listers, I sat down at the 'ol computer tonight to have a look at a few of the nice comments List Members have been including along with their Contributions this year. I was amazed at how many I found and even more amazed at some of the very nice things Listers have been saying about the Lists and how valuable the they are to them. I've included quite a few of these nice comments below. Please read over some of this great Lister feedback. No doubt you will find that you agree with at least one or two of those comments - maybe all of them! If you find that do, won't you please make a Contribution to support these Lists today!! Its fast and easy with the Matronics List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Don't forget that I've now fully implemented the new *List Fund Raiser Squelch* feature that will automatically intercept any future iterations of my "Please Contribute" messages -- that is, *once you've made YOUR Contribution*! How cool is that? (Make sure the email address you enter along with your Contribution matches exactly your subscribed List email address. An exact match is how it works.) Thank you for your generous Contributions this year and for all the wonderful comments!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ================= What Listers Are Saying (WLAS) ================ Absolutely the best deal on the Internet!! -Owen B I love The Matronics... -Robeto B My wife has her soaps & I've got my lists! -Hal B These lists are, indeed, the lifeline of our hobby. -Bob R The best source of information for my a/c. -Tony C The Zenith list is the first thing I read in the morning. -Herbert H You do more good than you can imagine. I wish I'd known about you while I was building my Kitfox, but you are still an after-the-fact resource. -Ben B ..an excellent site. -Ashley M The "List" has been the ultimate help for my Zenith CH 701 project!! -Brian U I appreciate the list being here for me. -Geoff H ..a great service. -William C The List continues to be an interesting and useful facility. -David M Your list is a constant goad to keep me working on my project. -Thomas S ..a great service. -Robert W The Pietenpol list is a great resource. -Benjamin W The Yak-list is Awesome! -James S ..great service. -Robert S The features you have implemented recently have you poised to knock out yahoo groups... -Danny D I like how your forum looks/works and the list service... -Ken E ..great service. -David P Very useful web site. -Wayne E ..a very valuable service. -Chris D Great sites... -Randall R I used to look at [that other] site also but it's gotten so cluttered with advertising that I've stopped looking at it. -Wayne E Without your services, the build would be a grope in the dark... -Fergus K The information and help I've received greatly outweighs the donation... -Lee P ..great service! -Christopher D I really don't think I could be building my plane without the wisdom I find on this list. -William G It really makes building a pleasure. -James P ..great service. -Doug W I'm getting near the end of my build (Europa tri XS) don't think I could have done it with out the help of the forum. -Stanislaus S Marvelous service. Couldn't have done it without you. -Jim G Love the list, this is a wonderful way to help others... -Michael S ..good service. -Derek L The list is responsible for helping me complete this project and educating me in the process. -Jeff D Definitely worth the donation. -Ron L ..great service to the aviation community. -Tony P I have been flying my plane for 5 years (RV-6) but I still get valuable information from this service. -Don N A very helpful site. -Roland S It's a great community to be part of. -David L Great sites. -John C A great place to find and share not only information but to meet people across the country and make lasting relationships. -Uncle Craig Great facility. -Peter H Its a great source of information! -Michael W Great improvements to the List... -Edward A Great service!!! -Rich D ..great resource! -William C ..excellent lists! -Michael S Couldn't have built my RV4 without the list. -Warren M ..a great service... -James N I would not have missed [the list] for anything during the building of my Europa. -Svein J ..another great year. -Robert D ..this [is an] essential builder's resource. -David A ..excellent service. -Gregory B I've learned a huge amount of "stuff" over the past year and look forward to it every day! -Smith M ..a great communication tool... -Jon M Finished building 5 years ago, but still are lurking on your great list! -Lothar K ..a valuable service. At 11:00 pm Matronics is the goto place for my RV questions. -Mike D ================= What Listers Are Saying (WLAS) ================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: LOC
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by popping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Value...
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least 0 or 0 worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription to some lame magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that same amount and get a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to think of it, you do... Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support YOUR Lists? Contribution Page: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!! Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Why? [Please Read]
Dear Listers, Each year I like to explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here provide a superior experience over the commercial equivalents. I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to sell little-blue-pills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year during November to encourage members to support the Lists. I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer many benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first feature I believe to be significant is that you cannot receive a computer v*rus from any of these Lists directly. Each incoming message is filtered and dangerous attachments stripped off prior to posting. I also provide a Photo and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and simple. Another very important feature of this system in my opinion is the extensive List Archives that are available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the way back to the very beginning of each List and with the very fast Search Engine, the huge size of some of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the data you're looking for. And added just this year is the new Email List Forum that allows members who prefer the Web BBS-style of List interaction. The beauty of the new List Forums is that they contain the exact same content that is distributed via email. Messages posted via email are cross-posted to the respective Forum and vice versa. The Forums also allow for another convenient method of sharing pictures and other files. Additionally added this year is the new List Wiki that allows members to build their own "Online List Encyclopedia" of sorts, documenting various aspects of their project for all to share. I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew and who where also building RVs. It has grown into nearly 70 different aviation-related Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 23,000,000 hits each year!! Additionally, the List Email system forwarded well over 87,000 postings last year, accounting for an unbelievable 39,000,000 (yes, that's 39 MILLION) email messages delivered to Matronics List subscribers! I think there's a lot of value in supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and improving a high quality service all _without any advertising budget_! I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email Message, Search the Archives, use the List Browser, or surf the Forums and Wiki sites. The Lists will be here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free, that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual List Fund Raiser! List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: More Great List Comments - Please Make A Contribution!
Dear Listers, There's a little less than one week left for this year's List Fund Raiser. I thought it would a great time to share a few more of the great comments I've been receiving from Contributors regarding what the Lists mean to them. There are some particularly poignant ones in this batch and I encourage you to have a look at some of them. Don't forget that once you make your Contribution, the Contribution Squelch kicks in and you won't receive any future messages from me regarding the Fund Raiser this year! This holds true for the Realtime and Digest distributions and now also the HTML and TXT links included with the Digest! (Note that for technical reasons, if someone replies to one of my contribution messages, the Squelch will _not_ be activated, and you will still receive it. Contribution messages will also still be found on the Forums site and the List Browse). Please make your Contribution today to support these List services! Pick up a great Gift too! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ============================= WLAS #2 ============================ Tackling my project without the List would be like building on a deserted island. The List has made me part of a learning (and laughing) community. -Larry W Thank you for providing such a fantastic resource for us Kolbers. I'm very happy to contribute towards keeping such a wonderful resource available. -Geoff T ..you do a great service for the flying community by providing this service. -John L ..solidly administered. -James C A great source of information. -Ralph S The Lists have likely saved a numbers of lives... -James F ..exceptional user service. -Larry W Better than a magazine! -Aaron G Thanks to your List I will be able to finish and fly my project. Without the help of the great people on your List I doubt it would have happened. -Ed G I learn something on a too regular basis thanks to these lists! -Ralph C ..valuable service. -John F ..a well administered service. -Stewart C Great forum! -Ronald C A great service! -Andy H Been reading the lists since my first RV in 1999. Good work and as necessary to me as a rivet. -Albert G The lists are a great help. -Gary S This resource has been critical to my building success so far. -Timothy F Great system and support! -Richard P Very helpful in the building my CH 701. -Ralph S Another year of entertainment and pleasure! -Larry B A great resource for all of us. -Larry W Another year of great service! Once again, the information is worth more than I can ever contribute. Thank you also for the "community" that the List fosters. I cannot tell you the number of times that seeing an friend's name come up has caused so many awesome memories to come flooding back - along with the eager desire to gather with these great guys again. I love hearing the beginner's enthusiasm, the builder's progress, and the flyer's success... -Robert B Our list has great info and I love reading the "Flame Posts! " -Stephen M Great service! -James B Excellent source of information. -David P You provide a very valuable service to the aviation community. -David H The RV related lists have been a tremendous help in the construction of my RV-7... -Norman R Awesome list!! -John E Great bunch of guys and very knowledgeable! -Herbert G Thank you for making it so easy to stay in touch with my fellow RV-10 builders. -David J I love the list and have been a reader for a long time. -James V Continues to be a great service! -George A Awesome List server. -Deke M Many of us would never finish our airplanes without [the List]. With it, I'm getting close! -Ronald C An excellent source of both information and inspiration! -William R Forums and format are easy to use. -Jack B Great help with my kit building. -Ralph H Super service. -Richard N Still loving it. -Jared S You have a fantastic web! -Harvey R ..a great service. -James M Glad you are there... -David A I get some great information on your list. -John P Fantastic service. Couldn't have made it as far as I have without it. -Stephen T A great learning experience with my RV-6A. -Ron B Great resources! -Jason H Well done. Very valuable. -Jeffrey D Great resource for the experimental aircraft community. -Chris H This List has been one of the most helpful tools in building my RV-10, since I build alone, and do not have any help readily available. Without the List, I could not have embarked on building my RV-10. -Jim H You run a great list there. -James H Really like the Kolb List. -Don W ============================= WLAS #2 ============================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List of Contributors Coming Soon - Make Sure You're Listed!
Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, the List seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all? :-) Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by droping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Who is "Matt Dralle" & What Are "The Lists"? [Please Read]
Dear Listers, Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? Well, I've been working in the information technology industry for over 20 years primarily in computer networking design and implementation. I have also done extensive work in web development and CGI design during this period. I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 with about 30 fellow RV builders from around the world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds of aircraft related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such as the Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to name a few. For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own servers here locally. Other List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched network infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter, a local T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business T1 Internet connection with full static addressing. The computer servers found here include a brand new, quad-processor Xeon Linux server for List web services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system dedicated to the email processing List functions, and another P4 Linux system serving as a remote storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and for an on-line hard drive-based backup system with 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage, soon to be upgraded to over 6 Terra Bytes! This entire system is protected by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power supply (UPS) systems that assure the Lists are available even during a local power outage! Speaking of power, imagine how much electricity it takes to run all of these systems. One month this Summer, I had a staggering $1368 bill for electricity alone! I recently upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer Center for the Matronics Email Lists. This year I added another rack to house the new MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't quite fit into the first rack! Here's a composite photo of the List Computer Center before the addition of the second rack: http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister. But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've stated before, I don't support any of these systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. It is supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you... and YOU! To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make a small Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keeps it running! Please make a Contribution today to support these Lists! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year...
Dear Listers, There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response has been very good, but we are behind last year in the number of people that have made a Contribution and as a percentage of the total number of subscribers. Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, Well, its November 30th and that means three things... 1) Today I am now officially 43 years old... (arg...) 2) It marks that last "official" day of the List Fund Raiser! 3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year! :-) If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way to further the List operation and keep the bills paid. I will be posting the List of Contributors next week, so make sure your name is on it! :-) Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly appreciated. List Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics Fund Raiser - 2006 List of Contributors
Dear Listers, I would like to thank everyone that made a Contribution in support of the Lists this year! It was really nice to hear all great comments people had regarding the Lists! As I have said many times before, running these Lists is a labor of love. Your generosity during the List Fund Raiser only underscores the great sentiments people have made regarding the Lists. If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser please feel free to do so. The nice List gifts will be available on the site for just a little while longer, so hurry and make your Contribution and get your great gift. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web site is: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises ( http://www.kitlog.com ), Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Paul, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated! And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2006 List of Contributors current as of 12/7/06! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser! THANK YOU! http://www.matronics.com/loc/2006.html I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to have everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be shipped via US Postal Service. Kitlog Pro serial numbers should go out via email this weekend. Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: static line routing?
I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins on the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel. The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I can't find any notes on where the line should be routed after the middle of the baggage compartment. What am I missing? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Simon Bromiley" <simon.bromiley(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: static line routing?
Date: Dec 10, 2006
I routed mine through the elevator push rod tunnel then split it left and right to make a balanced vent behind the baggage compartment. As far as I remember there is no drawing for this. Simon Check out my web sites www.brommers.bigpondhosting.com/album_1.htm www.automation.bigpondhosting.com or order some business cards www.vistaprint.com/frf?frf=130087600836 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 5:27 AM Subject: RV7-List: static line routing? > > I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins on > the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line > through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel. > The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I can't > find any notes on where the line should be routed after the middle of the > baggage compartment. What am I missing? > > Thanks, > > Charlie > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: static line routing?
Date: Dec 09, 2006
You route that forward just along/below the longerons on the pilot side of the plane. There are some holes already opened for you to route the line through. Indiana Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 12:27 PM Subject: RV7-List: static line routing? > > I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins on > the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line > through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel. > The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I can't > find any notes on where the line should be routed after the middle of the > baggage compartment. What am I missing? > > Thanks, > > Charlie > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: static line routing?
Date: Dec 10, 2006
There is an article in the RVator (1st issue, 2006) detailing how and where to rout the line through the cabin. The only hole you will need to add is the one in the F-704 seatback bulkhead. They recommend drilling a hole under the longeron just big enough to pass the plastic static tubing through. No bushing is required. If I remember correctly, the other holes are already punched in the ribs from Van's. The punched holes are the correct size for bushings. Greg Raleigh, NC RV-7 Wiring >From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV7-List: static line routing? >Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2006 20:46:50 -0600 > > >You route that forward just along/below the longerons on the pilot side of >the plane. There are some holes already opened for you to route the line >through. Indiana Larry >----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" > >To: "RV list" ; >Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 12:27 PM >Subject: RV7-List: static line routing? > > >> >>I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins on >>the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line >>through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel. >>The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I can't >>find any notes on where the line should be routed after the middle of the >>baggage compartment. What am I missing? >> >>Thanks, >> >>Charlie >> >> >> >> > > _________________________________________________________________ Share your latest news with your friends with the Windows Live Spaces friends module. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: static line routing?
Date: Dec 10, 2006
There is an article in the RVator (1st issue, 2006) detailing how and where to rout the line through the cabin. The only hole you will need to add is the one in the F-704 seatback bulkhead. They recommend drilling a hole under the longeron just big enough to pass the plastic static tubing through. No bushing is required. If I remember correctly, the other holes are already punched in the ribs from Van's. The punched holes are the correct size for bushings. Greg Raleigh, NC RV-7 Wiring >From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV7-List: static line routing? >Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2006 20:46:50 -0600 > > >You route that forward just along/below the longerons on the pilot side of >the plane. There are some holes already opened for you to route the line >through. Indiana Larry >----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" > >To: "RV list" ; >Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 12:27 PM >Subject: RV7-List: static line routing? > > >> >>I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins on >>the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line >>through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel. >>The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I can't >>find any notes on where the line should be routed after the middle of the >>baggage compartment. What am I missing? >> >>Thanks, >> >>Charlie >> >> >> >> > > _________________________________________________________________ Share your latest news with your friends with the Windows Live Spaces friends module. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: static line routing?
Date: Dec 11, 2006
Dangit. I'm nearing the end of fuse construction (or so I tell myself), and that's been gnawing at me for a while. I just figured a logical answer would avail itself in the directions on the finishing kit... You would think that such an obvious glitch would have been addressed after the first 3 rv7's were built? Oh well. So I just looked at the drawings. See dwg 20. There is a tooling hole of some sort on the 705-E-L/R side doublers, which you can see looking at the bulkead from the rear. The hole is conveniently located between two rivets and just below the thick angle used in tip-ups on that junction. I think I'm going to drill that hole out for the static line. I don't like the idea of drilling through the support angle nearer the tip up latch mechanisms and the few rivets on that angle... I'm going to wait till after I'm done with the canopy mechanisms before I commit. Till then, what have other tip-uppers done? ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Vouga Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: static line routing? There is an article in the RVator (1st issue, 2006) detailing how and where to rout the line through the cabin. The only hole you will need to add is the one in the F-704 seatback bulkhead. They recommend drilling a hole under the longeron just big enough to pass the plastic static tubing through. No bushing is required. If I remember correctly, the other holes are already punched in the ribs from Van's. The punched holes are the correct size for bushings. Greg Raleigh, NC RV-7 Wiring >From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV7-List: static line routing? >Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2006 20:46:50 -0600 > >--> > >You route that forward just along/below the longerons on the pilot side >of the plane. There are some holes already opened for you to route the >line through. Indiana Larry >----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" > >To: "RV list" ; >Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 12:27 PM >Subject: RV7-List: static line routing? > > >>--> >> >>I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins >>on the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line >>through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel. >>The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I >>can't find any notes on where the line should be routed after the >>middle of the baggage compartment. What am I missing? >> >>Thanks, >> >>Charlie >> >> >> >> > > _________________________________________________________________ Share your latest news with your friends with the Windows Live Spaces friends module. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za>
Subject: Re: static line routing?
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Don Watch out using that tooling hole as it might interfere with your canopy latch mechanism. I drilled a 1/4' hole thro the angle near the top and to the side so as to keep the line more or less straight Regards Trevor ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 3:42 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: static line routing? > > Dangit. I'm nearing the end of fuse construction (or so I tell myself), > and > that's been gnawing at me for a while. I just figured a logical answer > would > avail itself in the directions on the finishing kit... You would think > that > such an obvious glitch would have been addressed after the first 3 rv7's > were built? Oh well. > > So I just looked at the drawings. See dwg 20. There is a tooling hole of > some sort on the 705-E-L/R side doublers, which you can see looking at the > bulkead from the rear. The hole is conveniently located between two > rivets > and just below the thick angle used in tip-ups on that junction. I think > I'm going to drill that hole out for the static line. I don't like the > idea > of drilling through the support angle nearer the tip up latch mechanisms > and > the few rivets on that angle... > > I'm going to wait till after I'm done with the canopy mechanisms before I > commit. Till then, what have other tip-uppers done? > > > ****************************************** > Don Hall > N517DG (registered) > rv7 fuselage > http://rv7.donka.net > ****************************************** > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Vouga > Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:26 PM > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV7-List: static line routing? > > > There is an article in the RVator (1st issue, 2006) detailing how and > where > to rout the line through the cabin. The only hole you will need to add is > the one in the F-704 seatback bulkhead. They recommend drilling a hole > under the longeron just big enough to pass the plastic static tubing > through. No bushing is required. If I remember correctly, the other > holes > are already punched in the ribs from Van's. The punched holes are the > correct size for bushings. > > Greg > Raleigh, NC > RV-7 Wiring > > >>From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> >>Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >>To: >>Subject: Re: RV7-List: static line routing? >>Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2006 20:46:50 -0600 >> >>--> >> >>You route that forward just along/below the longerons on the pilot side >>of the plane. There are some holes already opened for you to route the >>line through. Indiana Larry >>----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" >> >>To: "RV list" ; >>Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 12:27 PM >>Subject: RV7-List: static line routing? >> >> >>>--> >>> >>>I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins >>>on the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line >>>through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel. >>>The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I >>>can't find any notes on where the line should be routed after the >>>middle of the baggage compartment. What am I missing? >>> >>>Thanks, >>> >>>Charlie >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > _________________________________________________________________ > Share your latest news with your friends with the Windows Live Spaces > friends module. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Question about wire
Date: Dec 18, 2006
Fellow Builders/Flyers.I am placing an order with Spruce and wanted to know how much of the 22GA wire that most builders ordered? I would like to at least get a ballpark as to how much I might need figuring runs back to the Empennage for Electric Trim and Rudder Tail Light. Runs to wings for capacitive fuel senders, aileron trim, auto pilot, and runs for the nav lights, pitot heat, panel?!?!?. As soon as my copy of AeroElectric Connection gets here I will have some better idea, I wanted to know if 300' is enough or should I go higher? Also, any input or advice on multiple gauge wires that I may not have thought of would be appreciated. Thank you, Scott & Jenni Shook RV-7A N696JS Working on Wings - QB Fuse ordered today!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Question about wire
Date: Dec 18, 2006
Question about wireHi Scott, Use AWG22 for most all of your avionics and sensor wire interconnects. I would also get AWG18, AWG16, AWG14 and a little bit of AWG20. Get plenty of AWG18 and plenty AWG22 as they will be the most prevalent. The electric trim takes shielded multi-conductor wire, as do the audio components (use 3 conductor shielded wire for both headset & mic jacks). Depending on the rest of your panel goodies there are a lot of variable. For example some pitot tubes come with wire, but others need the AWG14. Some landing lights like HID's only need AWG20, whilst 100W halogens will need at least AWG16. The Autopilot is best just to buy the "servo wire" that is pre-bundled because it needs 5 or 6 AWG22 wires and 2 AWG20 wires. Nav lights can vary depending on whether they are LED or Incandescent. I know that's not a lot of help, but honestly wire is cheap so just buy a bunch of it..you'll most likely need more than 300' for the whole airplane, especially in combined sizes. Heck if you're wiring yoru AP from scratch, a typical AP servo run of 18' (x 7 wires) uses up 125' right there! Hope that helps...clear as mud right! Cheers, Stein. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 4:12 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: Question about wire Fellow Builders/FlyersI am placing an order with Spruce and wanted to know how much of the 22GA wire that most builders ordered? I would like to at least get a ballpark as to how much I might need figuring runs back to the Empennage for Electric Trim and Rudder Tail Light. Runs to wings for capacitive fuel senders, aileron trim, auto pilot, and runs for the nav lights, pitot heat, panel?!?!?. As soon as my copy of AeroElectric Connection gets here I will have some better idea, I wanted to know if 300 is enough or should I go higher? Also, any input or advice on multiple gauge wires that I may not have thought of would be appreciated. Thank you, Scott & Jenni Shook RV-7A N696JS Working on Wings QB Fuse ordered today!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-7 rear deck question
I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. The instructions don't mention whether to install the various shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have y'all been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting until the tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned correctly? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <colfearnow(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/29/06
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Charlie, I waited until the tail was fitted. Hint: Make sure that you make the rudder stops as described in the plans/drawings a little larger. This will allow you some extra material for trimming as you set the spacing between the elevators and the rudder sweep....left and right. Ron F. Inst. Panel, canopy and seats. ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV7-List Digest Server" <rv7-list(at)matronics.com> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 2:57 AM Subject: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/29/06 > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 06-12-29&Archive=RV7 > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 06-12-29&Archive=RV7 > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV7-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Fri 12/29/06: 1 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 06:16 AM - RV-7 rear deck question (Charlie England) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> > Subject: RV7-List: RV-7 rear deck question > > > I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. > The instructions don't mention whether to install the various > shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have > y'all been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting > until the tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned > correctly? > > Thanks, > > Charlie > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net>
Subject: Electrical wiring routing
Date: Dec 31, 2006
For those of you who have gotten to or past this point, is there a universl choice for routing electrical wiring and coax from the wings to the instrument panel? There will be one nav coax, one MB coax, switched 12V supply to strobe power pack (CreativAir, mounted on center spar carry-through?), power leads to position lights and landing lights, RiteAngle AOA sensor on left wing and TruTrak wing servo on right wing. I guess the choice is either through the sidewalls or into fuselage center and forward to the firewall. Trying to determine if there is a consensus. Thank you for any advice you can offer. Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical wiring routing
Date: Dec 31, 2006
There is definitely not a concensus on this. There's no RIGHT or WRONG way either. Just run your wires in a way that lets you can get at them somewhat easily in case you need to add or remove something. Make sure they don't chafe on anything (either by using conduit or securing them to stuff with cushioned clamps and what not), and consider trying to minimize the length of the run to keep weight & cost & resistance low. Sorry to be vague, but it's literally a blank sheet...do it however you feel is best. There are probably a few examples on the web that you could follow. "Known good." Van's does sell wiring harness kits, so if you don't mind being confined to their layout and design that's an easy way to go. I can probably count on one hand the # of people I know who used Van's wiring harness. Most seem to prefer laying out their wires themselves. Hope this 2 cents helps. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1165 hours) www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 3:25 PM Subject: RV7-List: Electrical wiring routing For those of you who have gotten to or past this point, is there a universl choice for routing electrical wiring and coax from the wings to the instrument panel? There will be one nav coax, one MB coax, switched 12V supply to strobe power pack (CreativAir, mounted on center spar carry-through?), power leads to position lights and landing lights, RiteAngle AOA sensor on left wing and TruTrak wing servo on right wing. I guess the choice is either through the sidewalls or into fuselage center and forward to the firewall. Trying to determine if there is a consensus. Thank you for any advice you can offer. Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pitot Static Fittings & Final Painting Cabin
Date: Jan 01, 2007
From: danbergeronham(at)aol.com
I've just intalled two Cessna type static ports, one on each side of my RV-7A fuse, in the approx location suggested by Vans for their pop rivet static port. The nipple on the Cessna static ports is 1/4" OD, which of course requires 1/4" ID tubing. So far, so good. I also want to install two Cessna type pitot static sump bottles (which collect moisture from the static system) one on each side. (See page 382 of the 06-07 Aircraft Spruce catalogue for a pix of both these items.) The sump bottles are plastic, and have threaded, plastic, male fittings on each end of the bottle, which are of slightly different sizes. My problem is how to connect the tubing to the sump bottles. Obviously I need adadpter fittings of some sort. Page 118 of the 06-07 catalogue lists a variety of tubing-to-pipe fittings, but I don't see anything that seems to be right. (I'm not terribly familiar with this type of hardware.) Has anyone been there with this problem and, if so, where did you fi nd the hardware? Second question: I'm about ready to finish paint the cabin interior, and have removed everything that's removable for painting on a spray table. All parts have been previously primed with Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash Primer, some as far back as a year ago. The finish coat will be a Sherwin Williams, custom mixed, automotive paint, which the local Sherwin Williams paint guru assured me is compatible with the primer. Since I primed some of the parts as far back as a year ago and the primer has hardened, he suggested that I go over them lightly with a Scotch Brite pad to achieve better adhesion of the top coat. I've also thought that it might be good to wash them with some type of suitable solvent, but which one. So: Would it be a good idea to rough up the primer with Scotch Brite pads before applying the finish coat, and to wash with a solvent? Anyone been there on this one? Tnx for any advice. Dan Bergeron RV-7A N307TB (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2007
From: "rv7a.builder" <rv7a.builder(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Tip up canopy frame
Hello Group, The tip canopy skin C-702 attached to the frame when lifted interferes with the F-771 skin only in the area between the hinge line but outside of the hinge points every part of the C-702 skin moves nicely away from the F-771. What have builders done to alleviate this interference so they can open the canopy? I could notch out a section of the F-771 skin between the hinge points but that would look almost as hokey as if the C-702 was shimmed higher than the F-771? Any help is appreciated. John RV7A. __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Tip up canopy frame
Date: Jan 01, 2007
> from the F-771. What have builders done to alleviate > this interference so they can open the canopy? I could > notch out a section of the F-771 skin between the > hinge points but that would look almost as hokey as if > the C-702 was shimmed higher than the F-771? Any help > is appreciated. John RV7A. Chop chop, shim shim. You'll have a gap either fore/aft or up/down. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1165 hours) www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical wiring routing
Date: Jan 01, 2007
I agree with Dan that there are many ways to do it. I ran my wing wires up the sides of my forward fuselage. And I see no problem with routing it under the center floor panel/cover that leads to the heater vent area. The heat there is not hot enough to cause any problems. When I ran mine, I was concerned about that and the fuel lines under there and picked the side area. Although your question did not ask, I suggest you try to run your longest wire runs first. Pick some routes (or wiring runways) behind the panel and route each wire using one of them even if it means using more wire than the shortest route. Deciding where your main busses and grounds are going to be located has considerable impact on the wiring routes. Best wishes. Larry in Indiana, 170 hours, N3XG (the RV7 SunSeeker) There is definitely not a concensus on this. There's no RIGHT or WRONG way either. Just run your wires in a way that lets you can get at them somewhat easily in case you need to add or remove something. Make sure they don't chafe on anything (either by using conduit or securing them to stuff with cushioned clamps and what not), and consider trying to minimize the length of the run to keep weight & cost & resistance low. Sorry to be vague, but it's literally a blank sheet...do it however you feel is best. There are probably a few examples on the web that you could follow. "Known good." Van's does sell wiring harness kits, so if you don't mind being confined to their layout and design that's an easy way to go. I can probably count on one hand the # of people I know who used Van's wiring harness. Most seem to prefer laying out their wires themselves. Hope this 2 cents helps. )_( Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot Static Fittings & Final Painting Cabin
Date: Jan 01, 2007
The same plastic fittings that are used on R.O. (Reverse Osmosis) units are usually available at Hardware stores. Brass threaded nuts and ferrules are also compatible with plastic tubing as in swamp cooler applications. Hardware stores usually have rolls of diferent size tubing in white, black and blue. ----- Original Message ----- From: danbergeronham(at)aol.com To: RV7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 6:06 AM Subject: RV7-List: Pitot Static Fittings & Final Painting Cabin I've just intalled two Cessna type static ports, one on each side of my RV-7A fuse, in the approx location suggested by Vans for their pop rivet static port. The nipple on the Cessna static ports is 1/4" OD, which of course requires 1/4" ID tubing. So far, so good. I also want to install two Cessna type pitot static sump bottles (which collect moisture from the static system) one on each side. (See page 382 of the 06-07 Aircraft Spruce catalogue for a pix of both these items.) The sump bottles are plastic, and have threaded, plastic, male fittings on each end of the bottle, which are of slightly different sizes. My problem is how to connect the tubing to the sump bottles. Obviously I need adadpter fittings of some sort. Page 118 of the 06-07 catalogue lists a variety of tubing-to-pipe fittings, but I don't see anything that seems to be right. (I'm not terribly familia r with this type of hardware.) Has anyone been there with this problem and, if so, where did you find the hardware? Second question: I'm about ready to finish paint the cabin interior, and have removed everything that's removable for painting on a spray table. All parts have been previously primed with Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash Primer, some as far back as a year ago. The finish coat will be a Sherwin Williams, custom mixed, automotive paint, which the local Sherwin Williams paint guru assured me is compatible with the primer. Since I primed some of the parts as far back as a year ago and the primer has hardened, he suggested that I go over them lightly with a Scotch Brite pad to achieve better adhesion of the top coat. I've also thought that it might be good to wash them with some type of suitable solvent, but which one. So: Would it be a good idea to rough up the primer with Scotch Brite pads before applying the finish coat, and to wash with a solvent? Anyone been there on this one? < /div> Tnx for any advice. Dan Bergeron RV-7A N307TB (reserved) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2007
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot Static Fittings & Final Painting Cabin
danbergeronham(at)aol.com wrote: > I've just intalled two Cessna type static ports, one on each side of > my RV-7A fuse, in the approx location suggested by Vans for their pop > rivet static port. The nipple on the Cessna static ports is 1/4" OD, > which of course requires 1/4" ID tubing. So far, so good. I also > want to install two Cessna type pitot static sump bottles (which > collect moisture from the static system) one on each side. (See page > 382 of the 06-07 Aircraft Spruce catalogue for a pix of both these > items.) The sump bottles are plastic, and have threaded, > plastic, male fittings on each end of the bottle, which are of > slightly different sizes. My problem is how to connect the tubing to > the sump bottles. Obviously I need adadpter fittings of some sort. > Page 118 of the 06-07 catalogue lists a variety of tubing-to-pipe > fittings, but I don't see anything that seems to be right. (I'm not > terribly familia r with this type of hardware.) Has anyone been there > with this problem and, if so, where did you find the hardware? The fittings are 1/8 MNPT on one end and 7/16-20 (SAE 4) male on the other. I made my own adapters (my company has a machine shop) but www.mcmaster.com has a wide selection of all types of metal and plastic fittings so I suspect you can find something there that will do what you want. I have bought a number of different adapters and fittings there for my pitot/static system. Dick Tasker -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Vs" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com>
Subject: Pitot Static Fittings & Final Painting Cabin
Date: Jan 01, 2007
Dan, Scptch Brite yes, solvent, no. The solvent will wash away the primer. Don -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of danbergeronham(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 6:07 AM To: RV7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: Pitot Static Fittings & Final Painting Cabin I've just intalled two Cessna type static ports, one on each side of my RV-7A fuse, in the approx location suggested by Vans for their pop rivet static port. The nipple on the Cessna static ports is 1/4" OD, which of course requires 1/4" ID tubing. So far, so good. I also want to install two Cessna type pitot static sump bottles (which collect moisture from the static system) one on each side. (See page 382 of the 06-07 Aircraft Spruce catalogue for a pix of both these items.) The sump bottles are plastic, and have threaded, plastic, male fittings on each end of the bottle, which are of slightly different sizes. My problem is how to connect the tubing to the sump bottles. Obviously I need adadpter fittings of some sort. Page 118 of the 06-07 catalogue lists a variety of tubing-to-pipe fittings, but I don't see anything that seems to be right. (I'm not terribly familia r with this type of hardware.) Has anyone been there with this problem and, if so, where did you find the hardware? Second question: I'm about ready to finish paint the cabin interior, and have removed everything that's removable for painting on a spray table. All parts have been previously primed with Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash Primer, some as far back as a year ago. The finish coat will be a Sherwin Williams, custom mixed, automotive paint, which the local Sherwin Williams paint guru assured me is compatible with the primer. Since I primed some of the parts as far back as a year ago and the primer has hardened, he suggested that I go over them lightly with a Scotch Brite pad to achieve better adhesion of the top coat. I've also thought that it might be good to wash them with some type of suitable solvent, but which one. So: Would it be a good idea to rough up the primer with Scotch Brite pads before applying the finish coat, and to wash with a solvent? Anyone been there on this one? < /div> Tnx for any advice. Dan Bergeron RV-7A N307TB (reserved) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2007
From: "rv7a.builder" <rv7a.builder(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tip up canopy frame
Thanks Dan, I just got an email from Ken @ Van's and he indicated that their plane has a .050 gap in that area. Since the rivet line on the C-702 extends back aways from the skin edge, does the shim almost have to extend to the edge to get the lift needed to get the desired gap? Would a slot cut in either the F-771 or C-702 be preferable to shimming? Thanks. --- Dan Checkoway wrote: > > > > from the F-771. What have builders done to > alleviate > > this interference so they can open the canopy? I > could > > notch out a section of the F-771 skin between the > > hinge points but that would look almost as hokey > as if > > the C-702 was shimmed higher than the F-771? Any > help > > is appreciated. John RV7A. > > Chop chop, shim shim. You'll have a gap either > fore/aft or up/down. > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (1165 hours) > www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List > > Web Forums! > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Tip up canopy frame
Date: Jan 02, 2007
> I just got an email from Ken @ Van's and he > indicated that their plane has a .050 gap in that > area. Since the rivet line on the C-702 extends back > aways from the skin edge, does the shim almost have to > extend to the edge to get the lift needed to get the > desired gap? Would a slot cut in either the F-771 or > C-702 be preferable to shimming? Thanks. I think you be overthinkin. But whatever works! )_( Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net" <jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net>
Date: Jan 06, 2007
Subject: RV-7A Antenna Placement
I am at the point that I need to start looking at where to mount my ante nnas. I'm planning on using a bent whip antenna somewhere on the belly for the com and the wing tip antenna for the VOR Nav. I've been told to ensure to that the Com antenna is atleast 3' from the nearest obstructi on, ie landing gear legs. Where are most people sticking their antennas for Com, Nav, Transponder, and ELT to get the best results on 6/7/9A's? Additionally, are you guys with the wingtip Nav antennas happy with th eir performance? Thanks, Jason Rowe N338JR (Reserved)

I am at the point that I need to start looking at where to moun t my antennas.  I'm planning on using a bent whip antenna somewhere on the belly for the com and the wing tip antenna for the VOR Nav.  ; I've been told to ensure to that the Com antenna is atleast 3' from th e nearest obstruction, ie landing gear legs.  Where are most people sticking their antennas for Com, Nav, Transponder, and ELT to get the b est results on 6/7/9A's?  Additionally, are you guys with the wingt ip Nav antennas happy with their performance?

Thanks,

Jason Rowe

N338JR (Reserved)


      
      
      
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From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7A Antenna Placement
Date: Jan 06, 2007
Jason, The RV6 I owned had the bent whip comm antenna mounted on the belly dead centered between the two exhaust tubes. It was around 6 inches aft of the firewall. I know that was definitely less then 3' from the main gear, but it worked. In the three years I had the plane the comm radio always worked perfectly. About once a month I would wipe the belly down and wipe off the antenna. No problems. As for the transponder it was mounted on the belly just aft of the baggage area. Again never got a complaint from ATC. I didn't have a NAV. GPS was mounted on a bracket on the aft cabin wall and the ELT was also in side the cabin Happy building, John Brunke N767JB tip-up, working on wings ----- Original Message ----- From: jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 3:16 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV-7A Antenna Placement I am at the point that I need to start looking at where to mount my antennas. I'm planning on using a bent whip antenna somewhere on the belly for the com and the wing tip antenna for the VOR Nav. I've been told to ensure to that the Com antenna is atleast 3' from the nearest obstruction, ie landing gear legs. Where are most people sticking their antennas for Com, Nav, Transponder, and ELT to get the best results on 6/7/9A's? Additionally, are you guys with the wingtip Nav antennas happy with their performance? Thanks, Jason Rowe N338JR (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7A Antenna Placement
Date: Jan 06, 2007
I placed my bent whip commant just forward the main spar between the coverplate and the spar web. When placed under your left thigh in that place the Transponder can go under the right side same place. Both are out of the flow of the exhaust and don't require cleaning often. They work great and they are out of sight. Tad Sargent 7A 200 hours. ----- Original Message ----- From: jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 4:16 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV-7A Antenna Placement I am at the point that I need to start looking at where to mount my antennas. I'm planning on using a bent whip antenna somewhere on the belly for the com and the wing tip antenna for the VOR Nav. I've been told to ensure to that the Com antenna is atleast 3' from the nearest obstruction, ie landing gear legs. Where are most people sticking their antennas for Com, Nav, Transponder, and ELT to get the best results on 6/7/9A's? Additionally, are you guys with the wingtip Nav antennas happy with their performance? Thanks, Jason Rowe N338JR (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cknauf(at)comcast.net
Subject: Lycoming O-320 on ebay
Date: Jan 08, 2007
There's a used Lycoming O-320-B3B for sale on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230075395949&rd=1,1 There's a used Lycoming O-320-B3B for sale on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230075395949&rd=1,1

      
      
      
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From: <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Lycoming O-320 on ebay
Date: Jan 07, 2007
I have a metal tail jig in the LA area if someone is interested in it. I paid $650. Will let go for $350. Michael Crawford -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cknauf(at)comcast.net Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 8:01 PM Subject: RV7-List: Lycoming O-320 on ebay There's a used Lycoming O-320-B3B for sale on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagen ame=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230075395949&rd=1,1> &ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230075395949&rd=1,1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 2007
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: baggage floor platenuts??
Anybody see any problem with riveting the platenuts to just the floor ribs & just the bulkhead, instead of riveting through the floor & rib/bulkhead into the platenut? The screws will still hold the edges of the outer floor panels when the center floor panel & the back wall are screwed in. To me it looks like a minimal loss in strength (if any) & a lot less trouble if the floor ever needs to come up. Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: baggage floor platenuts??
Date: Jan 14, 2007
Don't you still have all the pop rivets holding the floor down? ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 2:47 PM Subject: RV7-List: baggage floor platenuts?? --> Anybody see any problem with riveting the platenuts to just the floor ribs & just the bulkhead, instead of riveting through the floor & rib/bulkhead into the platenut? The screws will still hold the edges of the outer floor panels when the center floor panel & the back wall are screwed in. To me it looks like a minimal loss in strength (if any) & a lot less trouble if the floor ever needs to come up. Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 2007
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: baggage floor platenuts??
Yes, but drilling out pops & 'repopping' isn't anywhere near as time consuming is drilling out 2 rivets for each nut plate & then resqueezing 2 rivets for each nut plate if the floors come out. Don Hall wrote: > >Don't you still have all the pop rivets holding the floor down? > >****************************************** > Don Hall > N517DG (registered) > rv7 fuselage > http://rv7.donka.net >****************************************** > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England >Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 2:47 PM >To: RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV7-List: baggage floor platenuts?? > >--> > >Anybody see any problem with riveting the platenuts to just the floor ribs & >just the bulkhead, instead of riveting through the floor & rib/bulkhead into >the platenut? The screws will still hold the edges of the outer floor panels >when the center floor panel & the back wall are screwed in. > >To me it looks like a minimal loss in strength (if any) & a lot less trouble >if the floor ever needs to come up. > >Thanks, > >Charlie > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 2007
From: "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: baggage floor platenuts??
For what it's worth, make sure you put at least one of the corrugated conduit runs in on each side of the tunnel under the baggage floors - having to do this was the reason I had to remove the floors and replace them. Charlie England wrote: > > Yes, but drilling out pops & 'repopping' isn't anywhere near as time > consuming is drilling out 2 rivets for each nut plate & then > resqueezing 2 rivets for each nut plate if the floors come out. > > > Don Hall wrote: > >> >> Don't you still have all the pop rivets holding the floor down? >> ****************************************** >> Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage >> http://rv7.donka.net >> ****************************************** >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie >> England >> Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 2:47 PM >> To: RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV7-List: baggage floor platenuts?? >> >> >> >> Anybody see any problem with riveting the platenuts to just the floor >> ribs & >> just the bulkhead, instead of riveting through the floor & >> rib/bulkhead into >> the platenut? The screws will still hold the edges of the outer floor >> panels >> when the center floor panel & the back wall are screwed in. >> >> To me it looks like a minimal loss in strength (if any) & a lot less >> trouble >> if the floor ever needs to come up. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Charlie >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Len and Rose Gilland" <len_rose(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Items for Sale
Date: Jan 17, 2007
Hey- I am making some changes to my RV-7A and have the following items for sale. A Hartzell constant speed with a MT prop governor. The Prop and Gov both have 127 hours on them. I'm asking $5200 for the prop and $800 for the gov. Also I have a Blue Mountain EFIS One that I am asking $9400 for. Email any questions and I will get you an answer Mark rvpilot(at)verizon.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Where to Mount Gretz Mount
Date: Jan 19, 2007
Here is the situation. I am putting in a Dynon AOA Pitot Tube and I have my Gretz mount in hand. I will have two lines running from my wing root out to the pitot tube, so with that in mind I would like to ask the group. Where (what bay) are any of you building or flying Gretz customers putting your Gretz mount in? So far I am leaning to the bay just outside of the tie-down on the outboard side of that bay. My only issue is getting the pitot and AOA lines past the aileron belcrank. Here is my thought and I would like a sanity check from you more experienced builders as to whether this setup would work? I can run the pitot line along the forward end of the main ribs along the bottom until I get past the aileron belcrank. Once past that I can move up to the pre-drilled holes in the center of the main ribs and run inboard to the root from there. For the AoA line, I was going to run that line between the second and third lightening hole close to the top skin all the way to the root. Thank you in advance for your input. Scott R. Shook RV-7A N696JS ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Where to Mount Gretz Mount
Date: Jan 19, 2007
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Thats pretty much what i did except I needed to run wires because I thought the heated version was coming out "any day now"... For now I am running the Vans bent brake tube method even though I cut the skin for the Gretz mount. Its easy to swap out when I go heated....I'm doing my IFR training and I'm a little nervous without a heated tube. Frank 7a ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:08 AM Subject: RV7-List: Where to Mount Gretz Mount Here is the situation. I am putting in a Dynon AOA Pitot Tube and I have my Gretz mount in hand. I will have two lines running from my wing root out to the pitot tube, so with that in mind I would like to ask the group... Where (what bay) are any of you building or flying Gretz customers putting your Gretz mount in? So far I am leaning to the bay just outside of the tie-down on the outboard side of that bay. My only issue is getting the pitot and AOA lines past the aileron belcrank. Here is my thought and I would like a sanity check from you more experienced builders as to whether this setup would work? I can run the pitot line along the forward end of the main ribs along the bottom until I get past the aileron belcrank. Once past that I can move up to the pre-drilled holes in the center of the main ribs and run inboard to the root from there. For the AoA line, I was going to run that line between the second and third lightening hole close to the top skin all the way to the root. Thank you in advance for your input. Scott R. Shook RV-7A N696JS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Where to Mount Gretz Mount
Date: Jan 19, 2007
After I got off the phone with Dynon today, the latest word on a heated AOA/Pitot is within a couple of months so I will probably pre-wire for heated as well. Scott R. Shook RV-7A N696JS _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 10:33 Subject: RE: RV7-List: Where to Mount Gretz Mount Thats pretty much what i did except I needed to run wires because I thought the heated version was coming out "any day now"... For now I am running the Vans bent brake tube method even though I cut the skin for the Gretz mount. Its easy to swap out when I go heated....I'm doing my IFR training and I'm a little nervous without a heated tube. Frank 7a _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 9:08 AM Subject: RV7-List: Where to Mount Gretz Mount Here is the situation. I am putting in a Dynon AOA Pitot Tube and I have my Gretz mount in hand. I will have two lines running from my wing root out to the pitot tube, so with that in mind I would like to ask the group. Where (what bay) are any of you building or flying Gretz customers putting your Gretz mount in? So far I am leaning to the bay just outside of the tie-down on the outboard side of that bay. My only issue is getting the pitot and AOA lines past the aileron belcrank. Here is my thought and I would like a sanity check from you more experienced builders as to whether this setup would work? I can run the pitot line along the forward end of the main ribs along the bottom until I get past the aileron belcrank. Once past that I can move up to the pre-drilled holes in the center of the main ribs and run inboard to the root from there. For the AoA line, I was going to run that line between the second and third lightening hole close to the top skin all the way to the root. Thank you in advance for your input. Scott R. Shook RV-7A N696JS href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 21, 2007
Subject: Re: Where to Mount Gretz Mount
Scott, I am building an RV-6A (slow build) and am also using the Gretz heated Pitot/Static probe. I located mine outboard of the tie-down in the right wing. I routed the tubing in front of the spar until I got to the probe location. There are lightening holes in the spar at that location so it was easy to drop the lines behind the spar to the probe. George ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: Where to Mount Gretz Mount
Date: Jan 23, 2007
http://donka.net/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=rv7leftwing <http://donka.net/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=rv7leftwing&page=3> &page=3 I installed the gretz heated pitot. Works great on the ground. I took a decent number of pics, scattered throughout this gallery starting on about page 3. Hope this helps. ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 11:22 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Where to Mount Gretz Mount Scott, I am building an RV-6A (slow build) and am also using the Gretz heated Pitot/Static probe. I located mine outboard of the tie-down in the right wing. I routed the tubing in front of the spar until I got to the probe location. There are lightening holes in the spar at that location so it was easy to drop the lines behind the spar to the probe. George ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Trio Auto Pilot Servo
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Where are people mounting their Trio or Navaid Autopilot servo's these days? I see that www.safeair1.com has a wing tip kit for the servos but would like some real world experience from you flying RV pilots. I want know if I should order the servo before I close out my wing? Anyone using the SafeAir1 kit? Is it worth the $130? Scott R. Shook RV-7A N696JS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Trio Auto Pilot Servo
Date: Jan 30, 2007
I think you will like the safeair1 kit, I made my own and put the navaid servo on the wingtip, and it didn't turn out very good, after doing it this way , it takes a longer control rod , I wished I would have put it inside the wing. I thought It would be easier to work on.. not sure yet.. time will tell. Danny.. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 12:23 PM Subject: RV7-List: Trio Auto Pilot Servo > Where are people mounting their Trio or Navaid Autopilot servo's these > days? > > I see that www.safeair1.com has a wing tip kit for the servos but would > like > some real world experience from you flying RV pilots. I want know if I > should order the servo before I close out my wing? > > Anyone using the SafeAir1 kit? Is it worth the $130? > > > Scott R. Shook > RV-7A N696JS > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "llsbiii3(at)netzero.net" <llsbiii3(at)netzero.net>
Date: Feb 01, 2007
Subject: Trio Auto Pilot Servo
Hi Scott, I have attached two pictures of my solution and two pictures from others . Also check Sams descriptions at <http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal /index.html>. Let me know if you are unable to see the pictures. From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> Subject: RV7-List: Trio Auto Pilot Servo Where are people mounting their Trio or Navaid Autopilot servo's these d ays? I see that www.safeair1.com has a wing tip kit for the servos but would like some real world experience from you flying RV pilots. I want know if I should order the servo before I close out my wing? Anyone using the SafeAir1 kit? Is it worth the $130? Scott R. Shook RV-7A N696JS

Hi Scott,

I have attached two pictures of my solution and two pictures from oth ers.  Also check Sams descriptions at <http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/jou rnal/index.html>.

Let me know if you are unable to see the pictures.


Time:&n bsp;10:24:47 AM PST US
From: "Scott R.  Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV7-List: Trio& nbsp;Auto Pilot Servo

Where are people m ounting their Trio or Navaid Autopilot ser vo's these days?

I see that www.safeair1 .com has a wing tip kit for the  servos but would like
some real world e xperience from you flying RV pilots.   ;I want know if I
should order the  ;servo before I close out my wing?

Anyone using the SafeAir1 kit?  Is it  worth the $130?


Scott R. Shook
R V-7A N696JS

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September 12, 2006 - February 13, 2007

RV7-Archive.digest.vol-am