RV7-Archive.digest.vol-aq
April 02, 2008 - August 30, 2009
RV7-Archive.digest.vol-aq
April 02, 2008 - August 30, 2009
flange ~90 instead of something less which could make cowl attachment more difficult.
Ralph & Laura Hoover
RV7A N527LR
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 1:20 PM
Subject: Question about QB Fuselage
When I received my QB fuse, I noticed that there was a crease along the firewall
that angles it forward slightly. At first I was concerned, and then I looked
at some of my pictures of a QB fuse from OSH and noticed the same anomaly.
Anyone know the reason for this?
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
---------------------------------
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total
Access, No Cost.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: EFIS Price Slashed!!!
From: "cdwambolt" <cdwambolt(at)cox.net>
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Well OK, I dropped it a little, and added OBO.
BLUE MOUNTAIN EFIS ONE $7,200 OBO FOR SALE Never flown, just back from BMA with
memory upgrade and a clean bill of health. This unit provides: Autopilot (servos
sold separately), ADI/HSI, compass, Airspeed, Altimeter, Altitude alerter,
encoder, VSI, Slip/Skid, Turn and Bank, Clock, OAT, GPS, Moving map, Navigation
database, Fuel totalizer, Flight data recorder, Fuel Level, Fuel Flow, Tachometer,
Manifold Press, Coolant Temp, Voltmeter, Oil Press, Oil Temp, CHT,
EGT, Ammeter, no need for vacuum system Asking less than 1/2 price of new, $7200
OBO Thanks Larry 602-363-2888 Charlie 602-763-7131
--------
C D Wambolt
RV-8 Fastback (Showplanes)
N8390
CHD (Chandler AZ)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174527#174527
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Smith" <rvator(at)lindonnet.com>
Subject: Need to sell project - finish wng or sell as kit?
Date: Apr 05, 2008
(posting this to the RV-7 list, too)
Unfortunately, I find myself in the circumstance where I do not have the
combination of adequate time and money to finish my RV-9A project in the
forseable future. I've finished the tail kit and did the flaps and
ailerons, and was just starting on the main spar. Any recommendations on
whether to go ahead and finish the wing and then sell it, or just sell it as
is? Can I expect to get any more money for finishing it? My suspicion is
not, since partial completions seem to go for near "cost-of-kit" prices.
Anyway, input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob - sad RV9 no-longer-builder
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: Need to sell project - finish wng or sell as kit?
Bob,
Where do you live? Prices? Any pictures of your work? Will you part out the pieces?
Contact me at:
Mike Ice
aurbo(at)ak.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Smith
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 1:48 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Need to sell project - finish wng or sell as kit?
(posting this to the RV-7 list, too)
Unfortunately, I find myself in the circumstance where I do not have the combination
of adequate time and money to finish my RV-9A project in the forseable
future. I've finished the tail kit and did the flaps and ailerons, and was just
starting on the main spar. Any recommendations on whether to go ahead and
finish the wing and then sell it, or just sell it as is? Can I expect to get
any more money for finishing it? My suspicion is not, since partial completions
seem to go for near "cost-of-kit" prices. Anyway, input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob - sad RV9 no-longer-builder
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2008
From: "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Manual trim and fuel injection
Does anyone have photographs of a manual trim installation in an RV7A
using fuel injection? I came up several inches short routing the cable
around and under the fuel injection pump assembly. I have heard that
some have done this successfully by putting a slot in the pump base or
routing the cable through the maze of fuel pump plumbing. Pictures of
either would be appreciated.
Regards,
Joe
N813MJ - at the airport struggling through final assembly.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Van's spinner
Date: Apr 10, 2008
I'm putting an Aerocomposite prop with the James Cowling on my -7.
I forgot to order the spinner. Has anyone used Van's spinner for a
composite prop or are all
constant speed props created the same for this part of the installation?
Thanks in advance,
John Brunke
________________________________________________________________________________
From: ceengland(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: tip-up F-697 question
Date: Apr 13, 2008
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV7 Take-off
Date: Apr 21, 2008
From: "Garlick, Bill (W.D.)" <bgarlick(at)ford.com>
Hello,
I would appreciate some comments and advice from RV7 flyers about
concerns I have with take-offs (landings are no problem).
I operate an RV7 (Tailwheel, Lycoming 160 hp IO-320, Sensenich FP) in
the UK from a 1,650 feet grass strip. Most of the the airfields I visit
are also grass, in various conditions and states of repair, with runways
usually in the range 1,500 to 2,400 feet in length.
The runways are seldom dead flat, and usually have various bumps and
undulations. I always seem to encounter one of these bumps or
undulations just at the wrong time during the take-off run, whereby I
get bumped into the air by the standard springy undercarriage when the
aircraft is just not quite ready to fly, and then I usually manage a
juggling act to keep it flying. My friend has the same IO-320 engine,
but with a VP Hartzell, which hauls his aircraft into the air without
encountering the same situation...I'm beginning to think my engine /
propeller combination is not suitable for the RV7 in these conditions!
I've discussed my concerns with instructors but their advice seems to be
the standard "get the aircraft balanced into a flying attitude and it
will almost fly itself off at the right time"...Maybe that's part of my
problem, the correct "flying attitude" during the take-off run? - I've
tried various: tail down, tail a bit high, but the effects seem to be
the same except that when the tail is a bit high, I'm sensing that the
undercarriage legs are flexing too much over the runway undulations,
with the potential risk of a prop strike. As the runways are generally
not very long, I always try to get the tail up into what I think is the
correct attitude as soon as the aircraft is running straight (which
takes quite a hefty shove forward on the stick), and I use 10 degrees of
flap. - I'm not sure whether 20 degrees creates more drag than lift
during the take-off?
Grateful for any tips, techniques, or advice.
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Four New Email Lists At Matronics!!
Dear Listers,
I have added four new Lists to the Matronics line up today. These include the
following categories:
Citabria-List Citabria, Decathlon, Scout, and Champ
Zenith601-List Zenair Zodiac CH 601
Zenith640-List Zenair Zodiac CH 640
Zenith701801-List Zenair STOL CH 701 and CH 801
All services are enabled and now available including Search, Browse, Digest, Archives,
Forums, Chat, etc., etc. etc...:
Citabria:
http://www.matronics.com/navigator?citabria-list
Zenith601:
http://www.matronics.com/navigator?zenith601-list
Zenith640:
http://www.matronics.com/navigator?zenith640-list
Zenith701801:
http://www.matronics.com/navigator?zenith701801-list
To subscribe, go to the Matronics Email List Subscription Form:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
To check the new Lists out on the Matronics Forum go here:
http://forums.matronics.com
Enjoy the new Lists!! Don't forget me during the Fund Raiser! :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: For Sale - Navaid AP-1 Autopilot - New!
Fellow Homebuilders,
I have decided to go with a two-axis auto pilot in my RV-4 project
and am selling my single-axis Navid AP-1. This is a brand new unit
with all of accessories, manual, analog Loran/GPS input, and S-2
servo. It has never been installed. No scratches.
Current price from Navaid is $1300 US. I will sell for $1100 plus
shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First
come, first served.
Please email me off list at dralle(at)matronics.com if you are
interested. Below is a picture of the actual unit and included accessories.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
Emacs!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Help with Trio A/P Servo Mounting
Date: May 06, 2008
Here are my two ideas for mounting the Trio AP Servo. I saw at least one
builder has mounted his servo on the spar and has been flying for a few
years now and wanted input from anyone (especially the tech counselors out
there) about either idea - especially concerns. I know all about the
SafeAir1 kit and don't see the need to spend $150 for something I could do
myself (rib mount).
(Posted to my website) <http://www.n696js.com/help.htm> Forgot about the
attachments being too big :-)
Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide. I know I asked this
before but I neglected to include pictures and now that I have my tanks back
from Evan Johnson, the wings are ready to be closed out and this is the last
piece.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: For Sale - RMI uMonitor - NEW - All Probes and Upgrades!
Dear Listers,
I am selling a new, never used, fully assembled RMI uMonitor with all the probes
for a 4-cylinder engine including Fuel Flow, 4ea EGT, 4ea CGT, Carb Temp, and
Manifold pressure. The uMonitor just had all of the latest hardware and software
updates factory installed including the new high contrast LCD display supporting
Fahrenheit temp readings AND the new LED fiberoptic backlight. Also
included is the Aircraft Extras RM-1B plugin harness extender for the uMonitor
which greatly simplifies the wiring installation.
The uMonitor is in new condition with no scratches and all installation material
and manuals. The pictures below are of the actual unit for sale. The table
below lists all of the items included.
I have nearly $2800 invested in this complete system. I will sell it for $2200
plus shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First come, first
served.
Please email me off list at dralle(at)matronics.com if you are interested.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
1ea - RMI microMONITOR Assembled . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1299.00 $1299.00
1ea - Factory Upgrade of LCD (Fahrenheit Temp Display),
. . . . Fiberoptic LED Backlight, Latest Firmware. . . . . .$ 399.00 $ 399.00
1ea - Manifold Pressure Sensor 10.0 to 59.0 InHg. . . . . . $ 68.00 $ 68.00
2ea - EGT/CHT Multiplex Switch 2 to 6 cylinders . . . . . . $ 60.00 $ 120.00
1ea - Fuel Flow sensor, FloScan 201B-6 - .6 to 60.0 GPH. . .$ 230.00 $ 230.00
1ea - Carb Temp Sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$ 55.00 $ 55.00
4ea - EGT Thermocouple - tubing clamp type . . . . . . . . .$ 65.00 $ 260.00
4ea - CHT Thermocouple - bayonet type. . . . . . . . . . . .$ 50.00 $ 200.00
1ea - RM-1B Harness Expander, Aircraft Extras. . . . . . . .$ 155.00 $ 155.00
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2786.00
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: For Sale - Skyforce Skymap IIIC - NEW - Latest Database
Dear Listers,
I am selling my new-in-box Skyforce Skymap IIIC full color GPS moving map with
Topo. The database and firmware were just upgraded 05/2008. Includes a Panel
Mounting bracket, GPS Antenna, cigarette lighter adapter, carrying case, and
all manuals. Brand new, never used. No scratches. The pictures below are of
the actual unit. The LCD color display on the IIIC is extremely nice and very
bright. Gives altitude readout. RS232 output.
I have over $2500 invested in this complete system. I will sell it for $2200 plus
shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First come, first
served.
Please email me off list at dralle(at)matronics.com if you are interested.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
1ea - Skyforce Skymap IIIC w/ GPS and Americas Database. . .$2367.00 . .$2367.00
1ea - Panel Mount. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$98.00 . . .$98.00
1ea - Firmware and Database Update 5/8/2008. . . . . . . . . .$50.00 . . .$50.00
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2515.00
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: For Sale - RMI uEncoder - NEW - Assembled
Dear Listers,
I am selling a new, never used, fully assembled RMI uEncoder. The uEncoder just
had all of the latest hardware and software updates factory installed including
the new high contrast LCD display supporting Fahrenheit temp readings AND
the new LED fiberoptic backlight. The uEncoder displays airspeed, altitude, fpm,
OAT, and outputs Mode C data for most transponders.
The uEncoder is in new condition with no scratches and all installation material
and manuals. The pictures below are of the actual unit for sale. The table
below lists all of the items included.
I have nearly $1500 invested in this complete system. I will sell it for $1100
plus shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First come, first
served.
Please email me off list at dralle(at)matronics.com if you are interested.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
1ea - RMI microENCODER ASSEMBLED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1179.00 . $1179.00
1ea - RMI Factory Upgrade of LCD (Fahrenheit Temp, US Miles),
. . . . . . Fiberoptic LED Backlight, Latest Firmware . . . . . $ 315.00 . $ 315.00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1494.00
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2008
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Settting the correct Spacing (Gap) between VS Top Rib and Rudder
Top Rib
Greetings:
The construction of my RV8A (RV7 and RV9 are the
same) the Rudders Top Rib swings OVER the top Rib of
the VS. There is suppose to be a "Gap" between the
two Ribs so that there is no interference (rubbing of
them together) as the Rudder is moved.
My question is - how do you set this Gap up ???
It seems to me that the Rod End Bearings on the Rudder
Spar need to be screwed into the Rudder Spar the "
Final" distance so that the Gap can be set up properly
BEFORE the Rudder Skin is finally riveted to the
Rudders Top Rib (R703) which sets this Gap. My
understanding the dimensions for screwing the Rod End
Bearings as shown on the Drawing 7 is only
"approximate" and needs to be fined tuned later = this
could change this Gap distance.
Or if one marks a center-line on the flange of the
Rudders Top Rib and aligns the pre-punched holes in
the Rudder Skin directly over the "center of this
line", does it Guarantee automatic clearance and a
constant Gap distance when the Rod End bearings are
set to their "Final" screwed-in distance ??????
The Orndorff Tapes show the Rod End bearings installed
in the Rudder Spar (no Rod End Bearing dimensions
given) and mounted to the VS and the Gap set by
bending Up the Rudders Top Rib (R703) to parallel the
VS Top Rib. Maybe I am missing something. So what
worked for you - set the Rod End Bearings "approx" or
align the pre-punched holes in the Rudder Skin
directly over the marked center-line on the Rudders
Top Rib flange and THEN rivet the Rudder Skin ????
Once the Rudder Skin is riveted to the Rudders Top
Rib, the Rudders Top Rib is fixed and can NOT be
readjusted to get the "correct Gap" later.
Appreciate your help, Garey Wittich
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Frazier" <fraziernv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Setting the correct Spacing (Gap) between VS Top Rib and Rudder
Date: May 10, 2008
I had no problems with the gap just constructing the vert. stab and rudder
according to the plans. The vertical height of the gap is set by the
prepunched holes in the stab and rudder hinge /rod end mounts. I used the
final adjustment of the rod ends to ensure that the gap (rudder to elevator)
was even for and aft, and that the rod ends were exactly aligned AFTER the
vert. stab, was installed on the fuselage. BTW, I added the extra spacer
washer between the rudder mount and the fuselage to both the top and bottom
holes (left side). My 7A plans called for the spacer washer in the upper
hole only, but that resulted in very slight left/right misalignment of the
lowest rudder hinge bracket.
Terry Frazier
7A Panel and final wiring.
snip
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Settting the correct Spacing (Gap) between VS Top Rib and
Rudder
Top Rib
Greetings:
The construction of my RV8A (RV7 and RV9 are the
same) the Rudders Top Rib swings OVER the top Rib of
the VS. There is suppose to be a "Gap" between the
two Ribs so that there is no interference (rubbing of
them together) as the Rudder is moved.
My question is - how do you set this Gap up ???
It seems to me that the Rod End Bearings on the Rudder
Spar need to be screwed into the Rudder Spar the "
Final" distance so that the Gap can be set up properly
BEFORE the Rudder Skin is finally riveted to the
Rudders Top Rib (R703) which sets this Gap. My
understanding the dimensions for screwing the Rod End
Bearings as shown on the Drawing 7 is only
"approximate" and needs to be fined tuned later = this
could change this Gap distance.
Or if one marks a center-line on the flange of the
Rudders Top Rib and aligns the pre-punched holes in
the Rudder Skin directly over the "center of this
line", does it Guarantee automatic clearance and a
constant Gap distance when the Rod End bearings are
set to their "Final" screwed-in distance ??????
The Orndorff Tapes show the Rod End bearings installed
in the Rudder Spar (no Rod End Bearing dimensions
given) and mounted to the VS and the Gap set by
bending Up the Rudders Top Rib (R703) to parallel the
VS Top Rib. Maybe I am missing something. So what
worked for you - set the Rod End Bearings "approx" or
align the pre-punched holes in the Rudder Skin
directly over the marked center-line on the Rudders
Top Rib flange and THEN rivet the Rudder Skin ????
Once the Rudder Skin is riveted to the Rudders Top
Rib, the Rudders Top Rib is fixed and can NOT be
readjusted to get the "correct Gap" later.
Appreciate your help, Garey Wittich
snip
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2008
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Settting the correct Spacing (Gap) between VS
Top Rib and Rudder Top Rib
On Fri, 9 May 2008, Garey Wittich wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Garey Wittich
>
> Greetings:
>
> The construction of my RV8A (RV7 and RV9 are the
> same) the Rudders Top Rib swings OVER the top Rib of
> the VS. There is suppose to be a "Gap" between the
> two Ribs so that there is no interference (rubbing of
> them together) as the Rudder is moved.
>
> My question is - how do you set this Gap up ???
On mine, I had to file the top of the VS down a bit to get the needed
gap. Given the pre-punched holes, there isn't a lot you can play with,
other than changing how far the rod ends are screwed in, move the top ones
a bit further out than the bottom (keeping them in line of course).
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 riviting fuse.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2008
From: "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Settting the correct Spacing (Gap) between
VS Top Rib and Rudder Top Rib
Something else to bear in mind is the thickness of both the VS and the
rudder at that junction. On many (if not all) 7's, there is a lot of
buildup required to make them look right. Don't try for a narrow gap
when setting the distance of the rudder from the VS using the rod end
bearings. You'll need to add some glass cloth and filler around the
front of the rudder and at the back of the fiberglass tip of the VS. I'd
shoot for about a 1/8" gap or so now and this will decrease when the
glass/filler work is done.
Regards,
Joe
N813MJ, airworthiness certificate issued, first flight hopefully next week
Brian Huffaker wrote:
>
>On Fri, 9 May 2008, Garey Wittich wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV8-List message posted by: Garey Wittich
>>
>>Greetings:
>>
>>The construction of my RV8A (RV7 and RV9 are the
>>same) the Rudders Top Rib swings OVER the top Rib of
>>the VS. There is suppose to be a "Gap" between the
>>two Ribs so that there is no interference (rubbing of
>>them together) as the Rudder is moved.
>>
>>My question is - how do you set this Gap up ???
>>
>>
>
>
> On mine, I had to file the top of the VS down a bit to get the needed
>gap. Given the pre-punched holes, there isn't a lot you can play with,
>other than changing how far the rod ends are screwed in, move the top ones
>a bit further out than the bottom (keeping them in line of course).
>
>
> Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> RV-8A 80091 riviting fuse.
> 1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: For Sale - Skyforce Skymap IIIC - NEW - Latest Database
From: dwyerhenry(at)aol.com
Date: May 10, 2008
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 10:52:59
To:rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: For Sale - Skyforce Skymap IIIC - NEW - Latest Database
Dear Listers,
I am selling my new-in-box Skyforce Skymap IIIC full color GPS moving map with
Topo. The database and firmware were just upgraded 05/2008. Includes a Panel
Mounting bracket, GPS Antenna, cigarette lighter adapter, carrying case, and all
manuals. Brand new, never used. No scratches. The pictures below are of the
actual unit. The LCD color display on the IIIC is extremely nice and very bright.
Gives altitude readout. RS232 output.
I have over $2500 invested in this complete system. I will sell it for $2200 plus
shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First come, first
served.
Please email me off list at dralle(at)matronics.com if you are interested.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
1ea - Skyforce Skymap IIIC w/ GPS and Americas Database. . .$2367.00 . .$2367.00
1ea - Panel Mount. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$98.00 . . .$98.00
1ea - Firmware and Database Update 5/8/2008. . . . . . . . . .$50.00 . . .$50.00
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2515.00
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: For Sale - Skyforce Skymap IIIC - NEW - Latest Database
From: dwyerhenry(at)aol.com
Date: May 10, 2008
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 10:52:59
To:rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: For Sale - Skyforce Skymap IIIC - NEW - Latest Database
Dear Listers,
I am selling my new-in-box Skyforce Skymap IIIC full color GPS moving map with
Topo. The database and firmware were just upgraded 05/2008. Includes a Panel
Mounting bracket, GPS Antenna, cigarette lighter adapter, carrying case, and all
manuals. Brand new, never used. No scratches. The pictures below are of the
actual unit. The LCD color display on the IIIC is extremely nice and very bright.
Gives altitude readout. RS232 output.
I have over $2500 invested in this complete system. I will sell it for $2200 plus
shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First come, first
served.
Please email me off list at dralle(at)matronics.com if you are interested.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
1ea - Skyforce Skymap IIIC w/ GPS and Americas Database. . .$2367.00 . .$2367.00
1ea - Panel Mount. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$98.00 . . .$98.00
1ea - Firmware and Database Update 5/8/2008. . . . . . . . . .$50.00 . . .$50.00
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2515.00
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Holbrook" <dholbrook7(at)cox.net>
Subject: autopilots
Date: May 11, 2008
I've convinced myself that an autopilot is now a 'must have' item. The
apparent choices seem to be Trio's EZpilot, or TruTrac's Pictoral Pilot
II. Any Pro/Con comments on either. Or alternatives.
Dennis
RV6 - SE VA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: autopilots
From: "rvtach" <rvtach(at)msn.com>
Date: May 12, 2008
Check out the new Dynon A/P. 2 axis A/P + EFIS all in one package for $3500. As
low a price as any other A/P but you et an EFIS with it.
Jim McChesney
Tucson, AZ
RV-7A finishing kit
--------
Jim McChesney
Tucson, AZ
RV-7A Finishing Kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182656#182656
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: May 12, 2008
Subject: autopilots
I fly IFR with a pictorial pilot and an ALtrak (altitude hold)...Works grea
t and is really is essential in IFR ..I mean literally is necessary to avoi
d losing control of the airplane in high stress mode.
VFR cross country they are very nice to have
Frank
RV7a
________________________________
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat
ronics.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Holbrook
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:01 PM
Subject: RV7-List: autopilots
I've convinced myself that an autopilot is now a 'must have' item. The app
arent choices seem to be Trio's EZpilot, or TruTrac's Pictoral Pilot II. A
ny Pro/Con comments on either. Or alternatives.
Dennis
RV6 - SE VA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: rick(at)amimotormanagement.co.uk
Subject: autopilots
Date: May 12, 2008
I couldn't agree more. I have the Trio Autopilot plus the altitude hold. Bo
th work great with the Skymap Three.
Rick Morris
G-RMRV RV7A
=C2-
I fly IFR with a pictorial pilot and an ALtrak (altitude hold)...Works grea
t and is really is essential in IFR ..I mean literally is necessary to avoi
d losing control of the airplane in high stress mode.
=C2-
VFR cross country they are very nice to have
=C2-
Frank
RV7a
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat
ronics.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Holbrook
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:01 PM
Subject: RV7-List: autopilots
I've convinced myself that an autopilot is now a 'must have' item.=C2- Th
e apparent choices seem to be Trio's EZpilot, or TruTrac's Pictoral Pilot I
I.=C2- Any Pro/Con comments on either.=C2- Or alternatives.
=C2-
Dennis
RV6 - SE VA
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
ics.com
.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: autopilots
Date: May 12, 2008
I=92m not familiar with the Trio. I have heard nothing but great
things
about TruTrac for years.
brian
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dennis
Holbrook
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 10:01 PM
Subject: RV7-List: autopilots
I've convinced myself that an autopilot is now a 'must have' item. The
apparent choices seem to be Trio's EZpilot, or TruTrac's Pictoral Pilot
II.
Any Pro/Con comments on either. Or alternatives.
Dennis
RV6 - SE VA
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List"http://www.matronics.com/Nav
iga
tor?RV7-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
7.5.524 /
Checked by AVG.
5/11/2008
1:08 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Holbrook" <dholbrook7(at)cox.net>
Subject: autopilot
Date: May 13, 2008
To the many folks who responded to my autopilot questions... Thanks!
All good info on a variety of equipment. Apparently, there is no bad
choice... other than not installing an autopilot at all.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2008
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: autopilot
Dennis,
I don't think that not having an autopilot is a bad choice at all. But (I hope)
you were just speaking for your application. There are many folks myself included
that do not need or want an autopilot. Why add complexity and expense if
it is just another gadget that might go bad. After all, one of the good thing
about these great airplanes is the ability to keep them light and simple.
Best wishes on what ever you choose.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Holbrook
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 4:23 PM
Subject: RV7-List: autopilot
To the many folks who responded to my autopilot questions... Thanks! All good
info on a variety of equipment. Apparently, there is no bad choice... other
than not installing an autopilot at all.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
From: "Sully" <mr.sully(at)tx.rr.com>
Date: May 24, 2008
Can anyone offer any good tips on fitting the stiffeners to the upper forward aft
skin from the aft baggage bulkhead down to the longeron for a slider? I can't
seem to get any kind of fit that seems acceptable and the drawing and plans
on this are pretty worthless.
Thanks
--------
Sully
RV-7 In-work
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184683#184683
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Date: May 24, 2008
Sully,
I don't really have any great tips. Mine didn't turn out perfect. I will
agree that the instructions are lacking here. I assume that the tooling
holes are for trimming to. I trimmed a little off both ends, to
approximately where the tooling holes are because I've never seen tooling
holes in the finished product. Then I just used the portion of the
stiffener that fit the curves the best. I ended up with them being a little
shorter than some. Mine come about 3/16" short of the longeron and don't hit
the very last hole at the upper rear side. I don't think it matters though.
I seem to recall some RV6s don't even have them installed at all.
One picture of mine is all I can find right now, included.
Bevan
RV7A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sully
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 5:25 PM
Subject: RV7-List: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Can anyone offer any good tips on fitting the stiffeners to the upper
forward aft skin from the aft baggage bulkhead down to the longeron for a
slider? I can't seem to get any kind of fit that seems acceptable and the
drawing and plans on this are pretty worthless.
Thanks
--------
Sully
RV-7 In-work
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184683#184683
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 24, 2008
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Sully,
I did mine like Bevan. If you're going to have a
baggage cover leave a 1/4" off the longeron. Start off
cutting out flush with the tooling holes. I called
Van's about the top tying in with the top at the
bulkhead. They stated it was not necessary.
Good Luck
Darrell
--- B Tomm wrote:
> Sully,
>
> I don't really have any great tips. Mine didn't turn
> out perfect. I will
> agree that the instructions are lacking here. I
> assume that the tooling
> holes are for trimming to. I trimmed a little off
> both ends, to
> approximately where the tooling holes are because
> I've never seen tooling
> holes in the finished product. Then I just used the
> portion of the
> stiffener that fit the curves the best. I ended up
> with them being a little
> shorter than some. Mine come about 3/16" short of
> the longeron and don't hit
> the very last hole at the upper rear side. I don't
> think it matters though.
> I seem to recall some RV6s don't even have them
> installed at all.
>
> One picture of mine is all I can find right now,
> included.
>
> Bevan
> RV7A
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Sully
> Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 5:25 PM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
>
>
>
> Can anyone offer any good tips on fitting the
> stiffeners to the upper
> forward aft skin from the aft baggage bulkhead down
> to the longeron for a
> slider? I can't seem to get any kind of fit that
> seems acceptable and the
> drawing and plans on this are pretty worthless.
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Sully
> RV-7 In-work
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184683#184683
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Date: May 24, 2008
I think I remember just having to fight it! At least knowing there is not
an easier way might help you just go ahead and get through it.
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Slider
Alexander City, AL
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sully
>>>Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 7:25 PM
>>>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: RV7-List: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Can anyone offer any good tips on fitting the stiffeners to
>>>the upper forward aft skin from the aft baggage bulkhead
>>>down to the longeron for a slider? I can't seem to get any
>>>kind of fit that seems acceptable and the drawing and plans
>>>on this are pretty worthless.
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>--------
>>>Sully
>>>RV-7 In-work
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184683#184683
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
From: "Sully" <mr.sully(at)tx.rr.com>
Date: May 24, 2008
Guys,
Thanks for the replies, Bevan yours look a lot better than mine, I was trying to
make them pick up the uppermost hole common to the bulkhead flange, I think
I'll pitch that idea and let them stop past the last skin hole.
Sully
--------
Sully
RV-7 In-work
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184706#184706
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Date: May 24, 2008
Yep, twist the crap out of it and do not trim off much material, angle the
bottom to fit snug on top of the longeron and don't obsess about it because
it is just a stiffener. The rib also requires some serious fluting. Go
slow a little at a time and yeah, I had to buy one extra to get it right.
Good Luck CJ
Here is a link to the picture:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=carlbell&project=423&cate
gory=3017&log=43470&row=40
Carl W Bell (CJ)
Building RV 7A - N947CB
http://www.mykitlog.com/carlbell
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sully
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 8:25 PM
Subject: RV7-List: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Can anyone offer any good tips on fitting the stiffeners to the upper
forward aft skin from the aft baggage bulkhead down to the longeron for a
slider? I can't seem to get any kind of fit that seems acceptable and the
drawing and plans on this are pretty worthless.
Thanks
--------
Sully
RV-7 In-work
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184683#184683
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Date: May 24, 2008
Opps try this link:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=carlbell&project=423&%20c
ategory3017&log=43470&row=40
Carl W Bell (CJ)
Building RV 7A - N947CB
http://www.mykitlog.com/carlbell
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 11:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Yep, twist the crap out of it and do not trim off much material, angle the
bottom to fit snug on top of the longeron and don't obsess about it because
it is just a stiffener. The rib also requires some serious fluting. Go
slow a little at a time and yeah, I had to buy one extra to get it right.
Good Luck CJ
Here is a link to the picture:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=carlbell&project=423&cate
gory=3017&log=43470&row=40
Carl W Bell (CJ)
Building RV 7A - N947CB
http://www.mykitlog.com/carlbell
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sully
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 8:25 PM
Subject: RV7-List: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Can anyone offer any good tips on fitting the stiffeners to the upper
forward aft skin from the aft baggage bulkhead down to the longeron for a
slider? I can't seem to get any kind of fit that seems acceptable and the
drawing and plans on this are pretty worthless.
Thanks
--------
Sully
RV-7 In-work
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184683#184683
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Merrill D. Evans" <mdevans9(at)comcast.net>
Subject: F-6111-L&R Stiffeners
Date: May 25, 2008
Here's some of the best advice I ever read. Unfortunately, I didn't read
it until I messed up my first F-6111. Works like a charm! I found it on
VAF.
First don't cut them shorter! draw a center line down the flange, then
trim the bottom edge to fit the longeron, the top flange needs a long
taper trimed to fit the bulkhead. Hold the rib tight to the longeron set
the line in the holes and start drilling and clecoing from the bottom to
the top. it looks like no way but it will go right in and is realy easy.
no fluting needed just a slight twist to get the top to fit the bulkhead
tight
good luck
Frank
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Last edited by FrankK90989
Regards, Merrill Evans, RV-7 (wings & fuselage), N87EM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: New products from TCW Technologies
Date: May 31, 2008
Fellow builders,
We are pleased to announce another new product. Universal
Switch- Airspeed Kit. (USW-1)
At Sun-n-Fun many folks got to see our Safety-Trim and
Intelligent Flap Controller system in action. This included a working
demonstration of our products. Aside from the interest generated in
these products we had a lot of inquires regarding the use of our
Airspeed Switch (ASW-1) for the control of other electrical loads in the
airplane. Well this new product addresses that need. USW-1 allows
for the control of electrical loads up to 10 amps based on aircraft
speed. This product provides a "squat switch" like capability and may
be used to enable/disable a transponder.
For all the details please visit our web site.
www.tcwtech.com
Thank you,
Bob Newman
40176 finish kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2008
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Bending Trailing Edge of a "One" Piece Rudder Skin
Greetings:
A note that might help you. With the 1/8" dowel rod
taped to the inside of the trailing edge of the Rudder
Skin, I placed a towel inside the Skin covering the
Skin Stiffeners. Using Vans recommended wood bending
brake I was able to bend the Skin so it just touched
the Rudder's Spar. It took about 9 compressions of
the Skin to accomplish this - each time it got closer
to touching the Spar. During the bending of the Skin
the Stiffeners did NOT do any damage to the Skin
because of the towel - even though they came in
contact with the Skin during the last 2 or 3
compressions.
The Skin came out flat until the last 1/8" (as
desired) of the trailing edge near the bottom and top
Ribs and the worst was 3/8" along the trailing edge.
To get the desired 1/8" radius, I took my Hand Seamer
(about 2" wide) and put 6 layers of masking tape on
each jaw surface for padding - so as not to dent the
Skin. Placed the Hand Seamer's rear edge about 1/2"
from the trailing edge and gave a gentle squeeze (a
few times as required) where the radius needed to be
better - making sure the Squeezer was applying EQUAL
pressure on both sides of the Skin. This worked well
- no dented Skin.
The Wooden Brake I made was made out of a straight (in
length) 2" X 8" that had been sawed in half to make 2,
2" X 4"s. The bending surfaces were "plained" with a
carpenters adjustable electrical plainer to make them
absolutely "smooth" and covered with Duct Tape.
Hope this helps someone, Garey (Santa Monica, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2008
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: -7 tipup F-721A: When??
Those who have gone before,
When is it ok to rivet the F-721A's ('forward canopy deck', @
instrument panel) to the longerons? I've fit all the stuff related to
the F-768 sub panel components but I'm waiting (as the instructions say
you can) to rivet that assembly into the fuselage. I'm ready to start
fitting the canopy frame, but that ain't happening unless I either rivet
the F-721A's to the longerons or take them out completely.
The earlier instructions describe 'fitting' them, but don't specify
actually riveting them in place.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2008
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: -7 tipup F-721A: When??
Charlie England wrote:
>
> Those who have gone before,
>
> When is it ok to rivet the F-721A's ('forward canopy deck', @
> instrument panel) to the longerons? I've fit all the stuff related to
> the F-768 sub panel components but I'm waiting (as the instructions
> say you can) to rivet that assembly into the fuselage. I'm ready to
> start fitting the canopy frame, but that ain't happening unless I
> either rivet the F-721A's to the longerons or take them out completely.
>
> The earlier instructions describe 'fitting' them, but don't specify
> actually riveting them in place.
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
OK, I know that Van's engineers won't apologize for the terrible
nomenclature, so I will. I'm sorry that Van named 2 little 4" x 12"
triangles 'forward canopy decks'.
These are the pieces that rivet to the top of the top longerons from
about 2" aft of the instrument panel, where they are only an inch wide,
up to the 'sub panel' where they are about 4 " wide.
I have no intention of riveting the upper structure & forward skin yet.
But, clecos holding these F-721A's on the longerons interfere with
fitting the canopy frame. I'm trying to determine whether I'm supposed
to go ahead with riveting these 2 small pieces so I can fit the canopy,
& not interfere with anything else in the process.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2008
Subject: -7 tipup F-721A: When??
I think mine were rivetted to the longerons in the QB kit but I left clecos in
on the sub panel until I was sure it wasn't coming out again.
Pretty much this means you have to have all the structure that is going to support
your radios complete.
Frank
Rv7a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: -7 tipup F-721A: When??
-->
Charlie England wrote:
> -->
>
> Those who have gone before,
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2008
From: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com>
Subject: Re: -7 tipup F-721A: When??
Hi Charlie,
I'm at this point (building/installing the canopy frame) so I can't
accurately say "go for it".
In my case, I riveted the forward canopy decks several weeks ago only to
realize that I needed to attach the tabs that in turn attach to the
instrument panel. It was not very difficult to fit and rivet those tabs
into place. The inboard tabs were reachable w/ a pneumatic squeezer and a
longeron yoke; the top tabs were reachable with an "L" shaped bucking bar.
I think that the only other item that could cause some heartburn is the
possibility of adding a dimmer for a map light or something similar.
Some suggestions:
- Can you cleco from underneath (even if for just a few holes)? Not sure
if the clecos will stand a little too tall.
- Maybe rivet using 2 or 3 rivets. That way if you need to remove it,
drilling out 2 or 3 rivets is a much easier exercise.
Here's hoping I don't run into any problems! ;)
Good luck,
/\/elson
RV-7A "tip-up"
Austin, TX
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring. ~~
On Tue, 17 Jun 2008, Charlie England wrote:
>
> Charlie England wrote:
>>
>> Those who have gone before,
>>
>> When is it ok to rivet the F-721A's ('forward canopy deck', @ instrument
>> panel) to the longerons? I've fit all the stuff related to the F-768 sub
>> panel components but I'm waiting (as the instructions say you can) to rivet
>> that assembly into the fuselage. I'm ready to start fitting the canopy
>> frame, but that ain't happening unless I either rivet the F-721A's to the
>> longerons or take them out completely.
>>
>> The earlier instructions describe 'fitting' them, but don't specify
>> actually riveting them in place.
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>
> OK, I know that Van's engineers won't apologize for the terrible
> nomenclature, so I will. I'm sorry that Van named 2 little 4" x 12" triangles
> 'forward canopy decks'.
>
> These are the pieces that rivet to the top of the top longerons from about 2"
> aft of the instrument panel, where they are only an inch wide, up to the 'sub
> panel' where they are about 4 " wide.
>
> I have no intention of riveting the upper structure & forward skin yet. But,
> clecos holding these F-721A's on the longerons interfere with fitting the
> canopy frame. I'm trying to determine whether I'm supposed to go ahead with
> riveting these 2 small pieces so I can fit the canopy, & not interfere with
> anything else in the process.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2008
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: -7 tipup F-721A: When??
Frank mentioned that they come riveted in the QB, so that probably means
it's safe to go ahead with riveting.
Cleco from below might work; I also like the idea of just riveting a
couple of holes. I hadn't thought of that. That would give the 'best of
both worlds'.
Thanks!
Charlie
David E. Nelson wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> I'm at this point (building/installing the canopy frame) so I can't
> accurately say "go for it".
>
> In my case, I riveted the forward canopy decks several weeks ago only
> to realize that I needed to attach the tabs that in turn attach to the
> instrument panel. It was not very difficult to fit and rivet those
> tabs into place. The inboard tabs were reachable w/ a pneumatic
> squeezer and a longeron yoke; the top tabs were reachable with an "L"
> shaped bucking bar.
>
> I think that the only other item that could cause some heartburn is
> the possibility of adding a dimmer for a map light or something similar.
>
> Some suggestions:
>
> - Can you cleco from underneath (even if for just a few holes)? Not
> sure if the clecos will stand a little too tall.
>
> - Maybe rivet using 2 or 3 rivets. That way if you need to remove it,
> drilling out 2 or 3 rivets is a much easier exercise.
>
> Here's hoping I don't run into any problems! ;)
>
> Good luck,
>
> /\/elson
> RV-7A "tip-up"
> Austin, TX
>
>
> ~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any
> spring. ~~
>
> On Tue, 17 Jun 2008, Charlie England wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Charlie England wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Those who have gone before,
>>>
>>> When is it ok to rivet the F-721A's ('forward canopy deck', @
>>> instrument panel) to the longerons? I've fit all the stuff related
>>> to the F-768 sub panel components but I'm waiting (as the
>>> instructions say you can) to rivet that assembly into the fuselage.
>>> I'm ready to start fitting the canopy frame, but that ain't
>>> happening unless I either rivet the F-721A's to the longerons or
>>> take them out completely.
>>>
>>> The earlier instructions describe 'fitting' them, but don't specify
>>> actually riveting them in place.
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>
>> OK, I know that Van's engineers won't apologize for the terrible
>> nomenclature, so I will. I'm sorry that Van named 2 little 4" x 12"
>> triangles 'forward canopy decks'.
>>
>> These are the pieces that rivet to the top of the top longerons from
>> about 2" aft of the instrument panel, where they are only an inch
>> wide, up to the 'sub panel' where they are about 4 " wide.
>>
>> I have no intention of riveting the upper structure & forward skin
>> yet. But, clecos holding these F-721A's on the longerons interfere
>> with fitting the canopy frame. I'm trying to determine whether I'm
>> supposed to go ahead with riveting these 2 small pieces so I can fit
>> the canopy, & not interfere with anything else in the process.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Greg Vouga <gmvouga(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Lil' Lifter Jack
Date: Jun 19, 2008
Does anyone have a Lil-lifter jack for their RV-*A that can give me some po
inters on how to use this thing? I was under the impression that I could ja
ck the gear up from the inside and pull the wheel off the axel. I just can
t find an adapter that fits. I've heard of others using this jack, so I'm
sure there's a way. It escapes me though. Any advice would be appreciated
. Thanks,Greg
_________________________________________________________________
The i=92m Talkathon starts 6/24/08.- For now, give amongst yourselves.
http://www.imtalkathon.com?source=TXT_EML_WLH_LearnMore_GiveAmongst
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net" <jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net>
Date: Jun 26, 2008
Subject: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
I recently mounted my engine on my RV-7A and found that I had a couple o
f problems. I have the forward facing Superior sump, the new non-Ryton
one, and found that it interfered with my drain plug and came very close
to the number one intake lead/runner. After talking to Vettermans, the
y said that the M1B exhaust that Vans had sent me would not work. The n
ew forward facing sump has the same basic architecture as the Ryton sump
and from what I understand, Vans was somewhat confused about this and s
ent the MIB. So I am exhanging the MIB exhaust with the Superior exhaus
t from Van's to correct the problem.
I was wanting to know if anyone out there has a Superior forward facing
sump with a Vettermans crossover exhaust on a 7A installed that would be
willing to send a couple of pictures of their installation? Particular
ly the area around the drain plug, the area between the number one intak
e and exhaust leads/runners, and then how the brackets for the throttle
and mixture were mounted. Also, what length cables were used for the th
rottle and mixture? I would appreciate any help and advice.
Jason
N338JR (Reserved)
____________________________________________________________
Fabulous Spa Getaway!
Enter for your chance to WIN great beauty prizes everyday!
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/JKFkuJkEQmUXeXPAC9bMoIPUu
70uSnuUxWDlsyCcedIokjEuZFh2RR/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Jun 27, 2008
Jason,
I have the forward facing sump (the Ryton one) and recently received the al
uminium one to replace it. Looks directly interchangeable (I hope!)
Anyway, I had a custom exhaust made by Aircraft Exhaust Inc. They had a sum
p, so knew where to put the pipes. I think mine was the first one they did,
as I sent it back once for some extra mods. It's not a crossover though, i
t's a 4 into 1.
As for bracketry, you can check out the firewall forward pages on my websit
e www.4sierratango.com and see what I did. For cable lengths, mine has a ce
ntre console mounted throttle quadrant so I'm a fair bit longer than where
you'd be if you've used Van's standard locations. I just used some electric
al cable to figure out the length.
Hope this helps a bit at least. There are as many configuratins out there a
s there are builders. Hopefully a little bit gleaned from everyone will hel
p out your particular set up in some way.
Mark
www.4sierratango.com
Grand Champion - Kit, Sun n Fun 2008
From: jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 21:12:20 +0000
Subject: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
I recently mounted my engine on my RV-7A and found that I had a couple of p
roblems. I have the forward facing Superior sump, the new non-Ryton one, a
nd found that it interfered with my drain plug and came very close to the n
umber one intake lead/runner. After talking to Vettermans, they said that
the M1B exhaust that Vans had sent me would not work. The new forward faci
ng sump has the same basic architecture as the Ryton sump and from what I u
nderstand, Vans was somewhat confused about this and sent the MIB. So I am
exhanging the MIB exhaust with the Superior exhaust from Van's to correct
the problem. =0A
I was wanting to know if anyone out there has a Superior forward facing sum
p with a Vettermans crossover exhaust on a 7A installed that would be willi
ng to send a couple of pictures of their installation? Particularly the ar
ea around the drain plug, the area between the number one intake and exhaus
t leads/runners, and then how the brackets for the throttle and mixture wer
e mounted. Also, what length cables were used for the throttle and mixture
? I would appreciate any help and advice.=0A
Jason=0A
N338JR (Reserved)=0A
=0A
____________________________________________________________=0A
Fabulous Spa Getaway!
Enter for your chance to WIN great beauty prizes everyday!
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Phillips <andrew.phillips(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Jun 27, 2008
Jason, I had the same problem but the new exhaust fixed it. I have a
quick drain and it goes out a hole on the pilots side of the sump not
out the bottom. The cables that Van's sold were too short for me and
so I am getting ACS to make longer ones. This will depend on what fuel
injection system you are using. I have the Airflow Performance unit. I
made my own throttle/mix bracket. I will try to remember to take a pic
the next time I am at the airport. If you don't get one by the end of
the weekend send me a reminder.
Andrew Phillips
On 26-Jun-08, at 5:12 PM, jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net wrote:
> I recently mounted my engine on my RV-7A and found that I had a
> couple of problems. I have the forward facing Superior sump, the
> new non-Ryton one, and found that it interfered with my drain plug
> and came very close to the number one intake lead/runner. After
> talking to Vettermans, they said that the M1B exhaust that Vans had
> sent me would not work. The new forward facing sump has the same
> basic architecture as the Ryton sump and from what I understand,
> Vans was somewhat confused about this and sent the MIB. So I am
> exhanging the MIB exhaust with the Superior exhaust from Van's to
> correct the problem.
>
> I was wanting to know if anyone out there has a Superior forward
> facing sump with a Vettermans crossover exhaust on a 7A installed
> that would be willing to send a couple of pictures of their
> installation? Particularly the area around the drain plug, the area
> between the number one intake and exhaust leads/runners, and then
> how the brackets for the throttle and mixture were mounted. Also,
> what length cables were used for the throttle and mixture? I would
> appreciate any help and advice.
>
> Jason
>
> N338JR (Reserved)
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Fabulous Spa Getaway!
> Enter for your chance to WIN great beauty prizes everyday!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net" <jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net>
Date: Jun 27, 2008
Subject: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Thanks Mark, I'll check out your site.
Appreciate the help,
Jason
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a cash advance.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/Ioyw6i4tF3C6vJQ5a4cIq2VLy
dIKgVtD7DcqRevF6fQhr3GrR7i9vZ/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net" <jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net>
Date: Jun 27, 2008
Subject: Re: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Andrew,
Thanks for the help. I'm waiting on the exhaust to come in so it'll be
next week before I get back into working on the cabling. I thought I'd
finish my baffling while I'm waiting on the exhaust. How much did it co
st to get the custom length cables made and what kind of lead time was t
here?
Thanks,
Jason
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a cash advance.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/Ioyw6i4tF3Cy9KZP8xjCAzoJD
gt5rM8DvuxRnK45Nzr8B4RJzFFwmz/
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2008
From: Duncan Engh <duncanengh(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Please forward the address for ACS
Thank you
Duncan Engh
--- On Fri, 6/27/08, Andrew Phillips wrote:
From: Andrew Phillips <andrew.phillips(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Friday, June 27, 2008, 6:56 AM
Jason, I had the same problem but the new exhaust fixed it. I have a quick
drain and it goes out a hole on the pilots -side of the sump not out the
bottom. The cables that Van's sold were too short for me and so I am gettin
g ACS to make longer ones. This will depend on what fuel injection system y
ou are using. I have the Airflow Performance unit. I made my own throttle/m
ix bracket. I will try to remember to take a pic the next time I am at the
airport. If you don't get one by the end of the weekend send me a reminder.
Andrew Phillips
On 26-Jun-08, at 5:12 PM, jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net wrote:
I recently mounted my engine on my RV-7A and found that I had a couple of p
roblems.- I have the forward facing Superior sump, the new non-Ryton one,
and found that it interfered with my drain plug and came very close to the
number one intake lead/runner.- After talking to Vettermans, they said t
hat the M1B-exhaust that Vans had sent me-would not work.- The new fo
rward facing sump has the same basic architecture as the Ryton sump and fro
m what I understand, Vans was somewhat confused about this and sent the MIB
.- So I am exhanging the MIB exhaust with the Superior exhaust from Van's
to correct the problem.-
I was wanting to know if anyone out there has a Superior forward facing sum
p with a Vettermans crossover exhaust on a 7A installed that would be willi
ng to send a couple of pictures of their installation?- Particularly the
area around the drain plug, the area between the number one intake and exha
ust leads/runners, and then how the brackets for the throttle and mixture w
ere mounted.- Also, what length cables were used for the throttle and mix
ture?- I would appreciate any help and advice.
Jason
N338JR (Reserved)
____________________________________________________________
Fabulous Spa Getaway!
Enter for your chance to WIN great beauty prizes everyday!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV7-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2008
From: Duncan Engh <duncanengh(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Jason
I am looking for the site for longer cables, can you help
Thanks
Duncan
--- On Fri, 6/27/08, jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net wrote:
From: jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net <jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Friday, June 27, 2008, 7:58 AM
Thanks Mark,- I'll check out your site.-
Appreciate the help,
Jason
-
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a cash advance.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Phillips <andrew.phillips(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Jun 27, 2008
Cables were just under $90 each and 3-4 weeks.
On 27-Jun-08, at 8:03 AM, jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net wrote:
> Andrew,
> Thanks for the help. I'm waiting on the exhaust to come in so it'll
> be next week before I get back into working on the cabling. I
> thought I'd finish my baffling while I'm waiting on the exhaust.
> How much did it cost to get the custom length cables made and what
> kind of lead time was there?
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Need cash? Click to get a cash advance.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Phillips <andrew.phillips(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Jun 27, 2008
www.aircraftspruce.com
On 27-Jun-08, at 8:08 AM, Duncan Engh wrote:
> Please forward the address for ACS
>
> Thank you
>
> Duncan Engh
>
> --- On Fri, 6/27/08, Andrew Phillips
> wrote:
>
> From: Andrew Phillips <andrew.phillips(at)sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, June 27, 2008, 6:56 AM
>
> Jason, I had the same problem but the new exhaust fixed it. I have a
> quick drain and it goes out a hole on the pilots side of the sump
> not out the bottom. The cables that Van's sold were too short for me
> and so I am getting ACS to make longer ones. This will depend on
> what fuel injection system you are using. I have the Airflow
> Performance unit. I made my own throttle/mix bracket. I will try to
> remember to take a pic the next time I am at the airport. If you
> don't get one by the end of the weekend send me a reminder.
>
> Andrew Phillips
>
> On 26-Jun-08, at 5:12 PM, jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net wrote:
>
>> I recently mounted my engine on my RV-7A and found that I had a
>> couple of problems. I have the forward facing Superior sump, the
>> new non-Ryton one, and found that it interfered with my drain plug
>> and came very close to the number one intake lead/runner. After
>> talking to Vettermans, they said that the M1B exhaust that Vans had
>> sent me would not work. The new forward facing sump has the same
>> basic architecture as the Ryton sump and from what I understand,
>> Vans was somewhat confused about this and sent the MIB. So I am
>> exhanging the MIB exhaust with the Superior exhaust from Van's to
>> correct the problem.
>>
>> I was wanting to know if anyone out there has a Superior forward
>> facing sump with a Vettermans crossover exhaust on a 7A installed
>> that would be willing to send a couple of pictures of their
>> installation? Particularly the area around the drain plug, the
>> area between the number one intake and exhaust leads/runners, and
>> then how the brackets for the throttle and mixture were mounted.
>> Also, what length cables were used for the throttle and mixture? I
>> would appreciate any help and advice.
>>
>> Jason
>>
>> N338JR (Reserved)
>>
>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> Fabulous Spa Getaway!
>> Enter for your chance to WIN great beauty prizes everyday!
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
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> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
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> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
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> =
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> =
> 3D
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> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
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> =
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> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za>
Subject: Re: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Jun 27, 2008
I had the same problem with Van's and am sitting with a MIB exhaust
which is of no use. I see that Van's now asks you to specify "Superior
FF induction" when ordering so they obviously know about the problem
now. The throttle brackets do not fit the Ryton sump. It is not too
difficult to make one . Used some .125 stock, drilled it for the
threaded holes on the bottom of the sump - one needs to angle the
bracket inwards, backwards and slightly down to clear everything, then
give it a 90 deg up bend and drill a hole to take the cable. Mine is on
a -7.
The mixture cable and brackets supplied work well. My documentation is
at the hangar so am not sure of the measurements but can find it out for
you if you can wait till next week. The throttle was 53" or 54" if
memory serves me right.
Will send you some photos off the web
Trevor
----- Original Message -----
From: jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com ; engine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 11:12 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
I recently mounted my engine on my RV-7A and found that I had a couple
of problems. I have the forward facing Superior sump, the new non-Ryton
one, and found that it interfered with my drain plug and came very close
to the number one intake lead/runner. After talking to Vettermans, they
said that the M1B exhaust that Vans had sent me would not work. The new
forward facing sump has the same basic architecture as the Ryton sump
and from what I understand, Vans was somewhat confused about this and
sent the MIB. So I am exhanging the MIB exhaust with the Superior
exhaust from Van's to correct the problem.
I was wanting to know if anyone out there has a Superior forward
facing sump with a Vettermans crossover exhaust on a 7A installed that
would be willing to send a couple of pictures of their installation?
Particularly the area around the drain plug, the area between the number
one intake and exhaust leads/runners, and then how the brackets for the
throttle and mixture were mounted. Also, what length cables were used
for the throttle and mixture? I would appreciate any help and advice.
Jason
N338JR (Reserved)
____________________________________________________________
Fabulous Spa Getaway!
Enter for your chance to WIN great beauty prizes everyday!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Blakey" <gblakey(at)vic.australis.com.au>
Subject: Re: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Jun 28, 2008
Gents,
One thing you might like to consider rather than going to the expense of
a whole new cable are these threaded connectors from Aircraft Spruce.
Dan Checkaway used one and I have purchased for my M1B setup to an
Aerosance Throttle Body.
Here is the link if anyone is interested and by just choosing the
additional length you require, you can thread this to the end of your
existing cable.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?query=10376&searchsubmi
t=Search&search=1
Cheers from Down Under!
Greg(RV-7........wiring)
----- Original Message -----
From: Duncan Engh
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Please forward the address for ACS
Thank you
Duncan Engh
--- On Fri, 6/27/08, Andrew Phillips
wrote:
From: Andrew Phillips <andrew.phillips(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an
RV-7A
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, June 27, 2008, 6:56 AM
Jason, I had the same problem but the new exhaust fixed it. I
have a quick drain and it goes out a hole on the pilots side of the
sump not out the bottom. The cables that Van's sold were too short for
me and so I am getting ACS to make longer ones. This will depend on what
fuel injection system you are using. I have the Airflow Performance
unit. I made my own throttle/mix bracket. I will try to remember to take
a pic the next time I am at the airport. If you don't get one by the end
of the weekend send me a reminder.
Andrew Phillips
On 26-Jun-08, at 5:12 PM, jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net wrote:
I recently mounted my engine on my RV-7A and found that I
had a couple of problems. I have the forward facing Superior sump, the
new non-Ryton one, and found that it interfered with my drain plug and
came very close to the number one intake lead/runner. After talking to
Vettermans, they said that the M1B exhaust that Vans had sent me would
not work. The new forward facing sump has the same basic architecture
as the Ryton sump and from what I understand, Vans was somewhat confused
about this and sent the MIB. So I am exhanging the MIB exhaust with the
Superior exhaust from Van's to correct the problem.
I was wanting to know if anyone out there has a Superior
forward facing sump with a Vettermans crossover exhaust on a 7A
installed that would be willing to send a couple of pictures of their
installation? Particularly the area around the drain plug, the area
between the number one intake and exhaust leads/runners, and then how
the brackets for the throttle and mixture were mounted. Also, what
length cables were used for the throttle and mixture? I would
appreciate any help and advice.
Jason
N338JR (Reserved)
____________________________________________________________
Fabulous Spa Getaway!
Enter for your chance to WIN great beauty prizes everyday!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV7-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2008
From: Duncan Engh <duncanengh(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Thanks from Red Wing,Minnesota
Duncan 7A
--- On Fri, 6/27/08, Greg Blakey wrote:
From: Greg Blakey <gblakey(at)vic.australis.com.au>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Friday, June 27, 2008, 5:41 PM
Gents,
-
One thing you might like to consider rather than going to the expense of a
whole new cable are these threaded connectors from Aircraft Spruce.-- D
an Checkaway used one and I have purchased for my M1B setup to an Aerosance
Throttle Body.
-
Here is the link if anyone is interested and by just choosing the additiona
l length you require, you can thread this to the end of your existing cable
.
-
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?query=10376&searchsubmit
=Search&search=1
-
Cheers from Down Under!
-
Greg(RV-7........wiring)
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Duncan Engh
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Please forward the address for ACS
Thank you
Duncan Engh
--- On Fri, 6/27/08, Andrew Phillips wrote:
From: Andrew Phillips <andrew.phillips(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Superior forward facing sump on an RV-7A
Date: Friday, June 27, 2008, 6:56 AM
Jason, I had the same problem but the new exhaust fixed it. I have a quick
drain and it goes out a hole on the pilots -side of the sump not out the
bottom. The cables that Van's sold were too short for me and so I am gettin
g ACS to make longer ones. This will depend on what fuel injection system y
ou are using. I have the Airflow Performance unit. I made my own throttle/m
ix bracket. I will try to remember to take a pic the next time I am at the
airport. If you don't get one by the end of the weekend send me a reminder.
Andrew Phillips
On 26-Jun-08, at 5:12 PM, jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net wrote:
I recently mounted my engine on my RV-7A and found that I had a couple of p
roblems.- I have the forward facing Superior sump, the new non-Ryton one,
and found that it interfered with my drain plug and came very close to the
number one intake lead/runner.- After talking to Vettermans, they said t
hat the M1B-exhaust that Vans had sent me-would not work.- The new fo
rward facing sump has the same basic architecture as the Ryton sump and fro
m what I understand, Vans was somewhat confused about this and sent the MIB
.- So I am exhanging the MIB exhaust with the Superior exhaust from Van's
to correct the problem.-
I was wanting to know if anyone out there has a Superior forward facing sum
p with a Vettermans crossover exhaust on a 7A installed that would be willi
ng to send a couple of pictures of their installation?- Particularly the
area around the drain plug, the area between the number one intake and exha
ust leads/runners, and then how the brackets for the throttle and mixture w
ere mounted.- Also, what length cables were used for the throttle and mix
ture?- I would appreciate any help and advice.
Jason
N338JR (Reserved)
____________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2008
From: Lucio Castrogiovanni <rv7alucio(at)yahoo.it>
Subject: Lycoming 0320 B2C
Hi at all; =0AI'm watcing about an used 0320 B2C, is there any of you who m
ounted it on own RV, better if on 7A?=0AIf ther is, do you encoutred any di
fficult for fit it?=0AThankyou=0ALucio Castrogiovanni=0ARV7A starting the w
ings=0A=0A=0A Posta, news, sport, oroscopo: tutto in una sola pagina.
=0ACrea l'home page che piace a te!=0Awww.yahoo.it/latuapagina
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net" <jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net>
Date: Jul 30, 2008
Subject: Switching Hartzell Prop order ticket
I am looking for someone who has ordered a Hartzell propellor and realiz
ed that they will receive it before they need it and would like to delay
their propellor shipment. I placed my order about a month ago but foun
d out that my projected date of delivery is September 10th (rookie move,
I know; wasn't anticipating that long of a lead time). I spoke with Va
ns and Hartzell and they said the only way to get my prop sooner is to s
witch the order ticket with someone who wants to postpone receipt of the
ir prop. They suggested asking around as many people end up getting the
ir prop before they need it. So if there is any kind soul out there tha
t has already placed their order for their prop but would like to receiv
e it around September 10th, please let me know. I would greatly appreci
ate it.
Thanks,
Jason
____________________________________________________________
Protect your car's interior with great looking floor mats. Click here!
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2008
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem
I'm beginning the fit of my rear window (-7 tipup). After the big cut &
trimming the rear window to the plans-specified 1 1/4" outside the top
skin outline, I get a good 'glass/skin fit from top rear to about 10"
back of the roll bar. from that point it looks like the skin is puckered
out, but on closer exam the bottom edge of the window doesn't curve down
& in quick enough & is slightly outside the vertical line of the
fuselage side. The problem is almost identical on both sides. I *might*
be able to pull this in with screws, but my plan is to glue the canopy
and the rear window. I've got misgivings about expecting the sikaflex to
hold against this much stress when it won't be the specified 1/8"
thickness around this curved edge.
Has anyone else seen similar problems, and what did you do? The 1st
thing that comes to mind is heating & re curving the plexi, but the 2nd
thing that comes to mind is needing a new $1K canopy.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za>
Subject: Re: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem
Date: Aug 08, 2008
I used some sawn off broom sticks with foam padding to push the plexi from
the inside of the cockpit against the skin. I used about 5 and wedged them
onto the floor. This squeezes the Sika out- no problem tho as you can mask
off an area 1/4-3/8" beyond the plexi, prep it as per instructions, and run
a bead of Sika along the aft edge of the plexi, This makes a neat fillet and
gives it the holding strength. The thin gap on the outside, between the skin
and plexi can be neatly finished by masking off about 1/8" from the edge of
the skin and onto the plexi and filling with tank sealant. Use finger to
smooth it off. Don't be too fazed by the min 1/8 gap as the coverage is
over a large area and although the plexi is almost flush with the skin on
the outside, there is a slight taper away from the skin the further aft the
plexi extends, which will be filled with a thicker layer of Sika. I was
amazed with the result. The plexi pushes the skin outwards and fits
snugly -no holes, no puckering, no waves and ugly screws/rivets etc.
I also made the gap between the front and rear canopy slightly larger and
built in a _n_ seal. This solved the problem of having to raise the rear
canopy up 1/8 and finding the front part without any support. Used some
square self-adhesive 1/8 rubber door seal to form a "dam" which I filled
with Sika, some vaseline on the front Plexi, closed the canopy and when the
excess was hard I meerly sanded it flush, leaving a neat air-tight seal.
Obviously you need to apply electrical tape to mask/protect the areas you
dont want Sika on.
hope this helps- feel free to contact me if you need any explanations
Trevor RV-7 Tip up + RV-7 slider with only Sika - sorry, one hole on the
slider for the locking handle!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 9:07 PM
Subject: RV7-List: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem
>
> I'm beginning the fit of my rear window (-7 tipup). After the big cut &
> trimming the rear window to the plans-specified 1 1/4" outside the top
> skin outline, I get a good 'glass/skin fit from top rear to about 10" back
> of the roll bar. from that point it looks like the skin is puckered out,
> but on closer exam the bottom edge of the window doesn't curve down & in
> quick enough & is slightly outside the vertical line of the fuselage side.
> The problem is almost identical on both sides. I *might* be able to pull
> this in with screws, but my plan is to glue the canopy and the rear
> window. I've got misgivings about expecting the sikaflex to hold against
> this much stress when it won't be the specified 1/8" thickness around this
> curved edge.
>
> Has anyone else seen similar problems, and what did you do? The 1st thing
> that comes to mind is heating & re curving the plexi, but the 2nd thing
> that comes to mind is needing a new $1K canopy.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2008
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem
Thanks for the info. My problem might be the reverse of yours: the
outside/bottom edge of the plexi about 8-10" behind the roll bar, where
the top skin starts its sweep up as well as back, is actually wider
than the fuselage in that area. The result is that there's a small but
noticeable gap between the plexi & the curved edge of the top skin. The
edge of the plexi, 1 1/4" below the edge of the skin at that point, is
pushing the skin out. There isn't enough curvature in the window to take
that area vertical to match the skin's 'desire' to be vertical in that
area. Therefore, the ~4" wide area of the skin leans outboard at the top
if it's cleco'd along the longeron rivet line.
It's not bad, maybe 1/16-1/8" at the worst point, but if there's a way
to make it really fit I'd like to try it.
Charlie
Trevor wrote:
>
> I used some sawn off broom sticks with foam padding to push the plexi
> from the inside of the cockpit against the skin. I used about 5 and
> wedged them onto the floor. This squeezes the Sika out- no problem
> tho as you can mask off an area 1/4-3/8" beyond the plexi, prep it as
> per instructions, and run a bead of Sika along the aft edge of the
> plexi, This makes a neat fillet and gives it the holding strength. The
> thin gap on the outside, between the skin and plexi can be neatly
> finished by masking off about 1/8" from the edge of the skin and onto
> the plexi and filling with tank sealant. Use finger to smooth it
> off. Don't be too fazed by the min 1/8 gap as the coverage is over a
> large area and although the plexi is almost flush with the skin on the
> outside, there is a slight taper away from the skin the further aft
> the plexi extends, which will be filled with a thicker layer of Sika.
> I was amazed with the result. The plexi pushes the skin outwards and
> fits snugly -no holes, no puckering, no waves and ugly screws/rivets etc.
>
> I also made the gap between the front and rear canopy slightly larger
> and built in a _n_ seal. This solved the problem of having to raise
> the rear canopy up 1/8 and finding the front part without any
> support. Used some square self-adhesive 1/8 rubber door seal to form
> a "dam" which I filled with Sika, some vaseline on the front Plexi,
> closed the canopy and when the excess was hard I meerly sanded it
> flush, leaving a neat air-tight seal. Obviously you need to apply
> electrical tape to mask/protect the areas you dont want Sika on.
>
> hope this helps- feel free to contact me if you need any explanations
>
> Trevor RV-7 Tip up + RV-7 slider with only Sika - sorry, one hole on
> the slider for the locking handle!
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England"
>
> To: "RV list"
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 9:07 PM
> Subject: RV7-List: -7 tipup rear window fitting problem
>
>
>>
>>
>> I'm beginning the fit of my rear window (-7 tipup). After the big cut
>> & trimming the rear window to the plans-specified 1 1/4" outside the
>> top skin outline, I get a good 'glass/skin fit from top rear to about
>> 10" back of the roll bar. from that point it looks like the skin is
>> puckered out, but on closer exam the bottom edge of the window
>> doesn't curve down & in quick enough & is slightly outside the
>> vertical line of the fuselage side. The problem is almost identical
>> on both sides. I *might* be able to pull this in with screws, but my
>> plan is to glue the canopy and the rear window. I've got misgivings
>> about expecting the sikaflex to hold against this much stress when it
>> won't be the specified 1/8" thickness around this curved edge.
>>
>> Has anyone else seen similar problems, and what did you do? The 1st
>> thing that comes to mind is heating & re curving the plexi, but the
>> 2nd thing that comes to mind is needing a new $1K canopy.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
Dear Listers,
Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and Rudder
fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of mounting the
VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very nice I
think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount for maintenance.
But here's my question. Look at that last picture of the back end of
the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather from the
plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
that, but it might be something I could live with...
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2008
From: John Bright <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
Hi Matt,
See "How To Articles" here http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6.html
Thanks,
John Bright
o:757-864-2305
h:757-874-0861
c:757-812-1909
----- Original Message ----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 7, 2008 11:01:50 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
Dear Listers,
Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and Rudder
fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of mounting the
VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very nice I
think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount for maintenance.
But here's my question. Look at that last picture of the back end of
the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather from the
plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
that, but it might be something I could live with...
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2008
From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
Matt
-
Take a piece of paper and trace the outline of the opening on the paper.-
Then find a piece of fiberglass scrap, or layup some fiberglass on a flat
piece of glass and let cure. then use the tracing you made and cut out a pi
ece of the fiberglass. Trial fit it in the opening, until you get a good fi
t. Then glue it in and let cure. After curing use filler-to make a smooth
front.
-
Jim Brown
--- On Fri, 8/8/08, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
Date: Friday, August 8, 2008, 3:01 AM
Dear Listers,
Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and Rudder
fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of mounting the
VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very nice I
think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount for maintenance.
But here's my question. Look at that last picture of the back end of
the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather from the
plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
that, but it might be something I could live with...
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2008
From: Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
This is a method used by a friend of mine on his radio control aircraft.
Obtain some soft foam rubber, tan in color and soft. This is open cell foam, AKA
a sponge. Cut a slab about 1/4 inch thick. Hold the foam against the opening
and trace the outline with a Sharpie. Cut the outline out making it about
1/8 inch oversize. Mix some 30 minute epoxy, found in hobby shops and available
in small quantities, and soak the foam in the epoxy. Wring out as much of
the epoxy as you can. Place the foam "rib" in place setting it back just enough
to put a thin layer of filler. Let cure, preferably overnight. When cured,
the foam will be very stiff and secure. Fill with filler of choice. An option
to this would be to add some epoxy to the fiberglass piece where the foam
attaches. This adds a little weight, but makes the foam more secure.
Dave Nellis
--- On Fri, 8/8/08, Jim Brown wrote:
> From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, August 8, 2008, 7:23 AM
> Matt
>
> Take a piece of paper and trace the outline of the opening
> on the paper. Then find a piece of fiberglass scrap, or
> layup some fiberglass on a flat piece of glass and let cure.
> then use the tracing you made and cut out a piece of the
> fiberglass. Trial fit it in the opening, until you get a
> good fit. Then glue it in and let cure. After curing use
> filler to make a smooth front.
>
> Jim Brown
>
> --- On Fri, 8/8/08, Matt Dralle
> wrote:
>
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: RV7-List: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of
> Fiberglass Tips...
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, August 8, 2008, 3:01 AM
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and
> Rudder
> fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of
> mounting the
> VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very
> nice I
> think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount
> for maintenance.
>
> But here's my question. Look at that last picture of
> the back end of
> the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather
> from the
> plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a
> cover on
> the back of it. My first question would have to be why the
> f***
> isn't there one already molded on it like on the front
> of the rudder
> tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's
> thoughts on finishing
> these? I'm just thinking that my patience for
> fiberglass layups
> hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally
> sweet tip
> installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I
> must. I would
> really like the back end finished off rather than gaping
> open like
> that, but it might be something I could live with...
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2008
From: Walt Ray <falconav04(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
Hi Matt; I would close it out just to keep the nest building insects from taking
a liking to the interior of the thing. Even if you only use speed
tape it would still be open for inspection. Just a thought. Walt...
--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Matt Dralle wrote:
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: RV7-List: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 10:01 PM
> Dear Listers,
>
> Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and
> Rudder
> fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of
> mounting the
> VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very
> nice I
> think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount
> for maintenance.
>
> But here's my question. Look at that last picture of
> the back end of
> the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather
> from the
> plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a
> cover on
> the back of it. My first question would have to be why the
> f***
> isn't there one already molded on it like on the front
> of the rudder
> tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's
> thoughts on finishing
> these? I'm just thinking that my patience for
> fiberglass layups
> hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally
> sweet tip
> installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I
> must. I would
> really like the back end finished off rather than gaping
> open like
> that, but it might be something I could live with...
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2008
From: Lucio Castrogiovanni <rv7alucio(at)yahoo.it>
Dear Listers=0AIs there any of you that run an Lycoming IO360 A1A on his RV
(better if 7A) ?=0AI like know how run it and if=C2- there are any incon
venient or bad oil or fuel consuption or samething else.=0Athankyou=0ALucio
Castrogiovanni=0Arv7alucio(at)yahoo.it=0A=0A=0A Posta, news, sport, oros
copo: tutto in una sola pagina. =0ACrea l'home page che piace a te!=0Aw
ww.yahoo.it/latuapagina
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2008
From: Lucio Castrogiovanni <rv7alucio(at)yahoo.it>
Dear Listers=0AIs there any of you that run an Lycoming IO360 A1A on his RV
(better if 7A) ?=0AI like know how run it and if=C2- there are any incon
venient or bad oil or fuel consuption or samething else.=0Athankyou=0ALucio
Castrogiovanni=0Arv7alucio(at)yahoo.it=0A=0A=0A Posta, news, sport, oros
copo: tutto in una sola pagina. =0ACrea l'home page che piace a te!=0Aw
ww.yahoo.it/latuapagina
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: Lucio Castrogiovanni <rv7alucio(at)yahoo.it>
Subject: Lycoming IO360 A1A 200 hp
Dear Listers=0AIs there any of you that run an Lycoming IO360 A1A on his RV
(better if 7A) ?=0AI like know how run it and if=C2- there are any incon
venient or bad oil or fuel consuption or samething else.=0Athankyou=0ALucio
Castrogiovanni=0Arv7alucio(at)yahoo.it=0A=0A=0A Posta, news, sport, oros
copo: tutto in una sola pagina. =0ACrea l'home page che piace a te!=0Aw
ww.yahoo.it/latuapagina
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE:
Date: Aug 13, 2008
If that's the 200hp=2C try www.rvproject.com
Mark
www.4sierratango.com
Date: Tue=2C 12 Aug 2008 17:04:24 +0000
From: rv7alucio(at)yahoo.it
Subject:
=0A
=0A
=0A
Dear Listers=0A
Is there any of you that run an Lycoming IO360 A1A on his RV (better if 7A)
?=0A
I like know how run it and if there are any inconvenient or bad oil or fue
l consuption or samething else.=0A
thankyou=0A
Lucio Castrogiovanni=0A
rv7alucio(at)yahoo.it
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
Posta=2C news=2C sport=2C oroscopo: tutto in una sola pagina
Crea l'home page che piace a te!.=0A
=0A
=0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: "Carl Peters, M.D." <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: e: RV7-List:
Lucio - not sure I understand your questions. Can you re-phrase, please?
(Non capisco che hai scritto - per favore, riformuli un'altra volta? Ti
posso aiutare un po se vuoi srivimi in italiano. Grazie.)
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: No Title
From: "cnpeters" <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
I translated and summarized the following for an RV-7A builder in Italy named Lucio.
He acquired a used Lyc IO-360 A1A in parts (no history or other info given),
and a trusted mechanic can rebuild it for 8K euros. He would like to know
if this type of Lycoming is a trustworthy engine for the RV-7A in general, any
historical problems with it, etc. Also he would like to know if it is worth
rebuilding this engine vs. buying new from Van's. With devalued dollar, he can
get a new engine cheap, BUT with high transportation and import taxation costs,
it would add up to 22k euros (north of $30k).
OK, my take on this:
Can't tell much about whether the used engine is any good from his note. Crankshaft
OK? History of damage/prop strike? TT and TT SMOH? Why is it in parts? Corrosion?
Camshaft OK? Any AD's on the parts/crank that need complying with? Basically,
I would advise to have the engine inspected by a knowledgeable mechanic
first, before agreeing to a $12k rebuild. There are many stories of these used
engines ending up costing far more than a new one when everything is done.
Since this engine is in parts, it will be much cheaper to inspect than doing
a teardown.
As to the IO-360 A1A engine and the RV-7A, it is a popular combo (more as in the
carburetor configuration) and would be an excellent powerplant capable of meeting
Van's published performance speeds at fuel burns near 8 gallons per hour
lean of peak with the fuel injection. Any other thoughts from group?
Thanks,
Carl
--------
Carl Peters
RV-9A wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199206#199206
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Lycoming IO-360 A1A used vs new question
From: "cnpeters" <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
I translated and summarized the following for an RV-7A builder in Italy named Lucio.
He acquired a used Lyc IO-360 A1A in parts (no history or other info given),
and a trusted mechanic can rebuild it for 8K euros. He would like to know
if this type of Lycoming is a trustworthy engine for the RV-7A in general, any
historical problems with it, etc. Also he would like to know if it is worth
rebuilding this engine vs. buying new from Van's. With devalued dollar, he can
get a new engine cheap, BUT with high transportation and import taxation costs,
it would add up to 22k euros (north of $30k).
OK, my take on this:
Can't tell much about whether the used engine is any good from his note. Crankshaft
OK? History of damage/prop strike? TT and TT SMOH? Why is it in parts? Corrosion?
Camshaft OK? Any AD's on the parts/crank that need complying with? Basically,
I would advise to have the engine inspected by a knowledgeable mechanic
first, before agreeing to a $12k rebuild. There are many stories of these used
engines ending up costing far more than a new one when everything is done.
Since this engine is in parts, it will be much cheaper to inspect than doing
a teardown.
As to the IO-360 A1A engine and the RV-7A, it is a popular combo (more as in the
carburetor configuration) and would be an excellent powerplant capable of meeting
Van's published performance speeds at fuel burns near 8 gallons per hour
lean of peak with the fuel injection. Any other thoughts from group?
Thanks,
Carl
--------
Carl Peters
RV-9A wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199211#199211
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: My Interpretation Of Tip Installation...
Dear Listers,
Today marks the completion of my RV-8 Tail including all of the
fiberglassing and tip installation. I had asked the List a while
back about filling the backs of the tips on the Vert/Horz Stabs and
got some great feedback. I used some hard foam and built a "dam" and
glassed the inside then rapped the outside with tape and filled with
resin/flockedcotton and then sanded it down to the right
size. Worked great and the next time I could do the whole thing in a
couple of days.
Rather than glassing over the whole end of the surface onto the
fiberglass tips, I opted to just mount using screws and platenuts and
only glassed AL-to-tip on the Elevator counterbalances where
necessary. They came out very nice I think with minimal fuss and
muss. Since the Rudder bottom and Fin Top had to be removable for
access to wiring, I decided that I wanted everything to look the same
and so I used the screws and platenuts throughout. Really didn't add
that much weight and allows for tip removal down the road without
paint damage.
The mount for the VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the Vert Stab came out very
nice I think and is very solid.
I definitely learned a lot about fiberglassing in the last couple of
weeks as well as gel-coating.
Lots of pictures attached.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 - N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: RON SHARON HECKENLIABLE <rheckenliable(at)q.com>
Subject: RE: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/11/08
Date: Sep 13, 2008
Has anyone installed an Avidyne TCAS on a RV7A? If so =2C where did you pl
ace your antennas?> Date: Thu=2C 11 Sep 2008 23:57:57 -0700> From: rv7-list
(at)matronics.com> To: rv7-list-digest(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV7-List Digest
: 0 Msgs - 09/11/08> > *> > ===============
==========> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Arch
ive> =======================
==> > Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of t
he > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatt
ed > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexe
s > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > suc
h as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version:> > http://www.matroni
cs.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 08-09-11
&Archive=RV7> > Text Version:> > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestvi
ew.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 08-09-11&Archive=RV7> > > =
======================> EMail V
ersion of Today's List Digest Archive> ============
===========> > > ------------------------------------
----------------------> RV7-List Digest Archive> ---> Total Messages Posted
Thu 09/11/08: 0> ---------------------------------------------------------
==> > > >
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Line Bends
From: "Sully" <mr.sully(at)tx.rr.com>
Date: Sep 14, 2008
I am having problems with the fuel line bends. I have one of the 180 degree benders
and get good results in most cases, but when a "S" bend is required it is
impossible to get the second bend to start without a significant amount of straight
line between the tangent points of the bends. I was wondering if anyone
has had this problem and if one of the spring type benders might be the trick.
--------
Sully
RV-7 In-work
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4334#204334
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Frazier" <fraziernv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Fuel Line Bends
Date: Sep 15, 2008
I have been able to get closer "S-bends" by bending from opposite sides
toward the center, if that makes sense. Make your first bend, then turn the
tubing around and make the second bend toward the first. Might take some
trial and error, but it worked for me.
Terry
RV7A expect to fly this year!
Subject: RV7-List: Fuel Line Bends
From: "Sully" <mr.sully(at)tx.rr.com>
I am having problems with the fuel line bends. I have one of the 180 degree
benders
and get good results in most cases, but when a "S" bend is required it is
impossible to get the second bend to start without a significant amount of
straight
line between the tangent points of the bends. I was wondering if anyone
has had this problem and if one of the spring type benders might be the
trick.
--------
Sully
RV-7 In-work
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schoen" <flybill2usa(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Bends
Date: Sep 15, 2008
Sully
I suspect we all had the same problem. I had to re-do it several times
and I am still not happy with my bends (slight flat spots) I have seen
some pictures of guys with the improved Andair selector that gets away
from the "s" turns needed by the older valves and requires only 90
degree bends although going from the spar forward and then back out
through the skin still needs the "s' turn but if I recall there is
enough room to have a short straight section prior to the next 90 degree
bend. I tried a spring bender but it didn't help me as I recall.
Bill Schoen
RV-7 Finish kit
South Fork, Co.
----- Original Message -----
From: Sully<mailto:mr.sully(at)tx.rr.com>
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 11:12 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Fuel Line Bends
>
I am having problems with the fuel line bends. I have one of the 180
degree benders and get good results in most cases, but when a "S" bend
is required it is impossible to get the second bend to start without a
significant amount of straight line between the tangent points of the
bends. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and if one of the
spring type benders might be the trick.
--------
Sully
RV-7 In-work
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4334#204334
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
gator?RV7-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2008
From: Harrell Staton <pj260(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Need a prop
Folks -
This is probably a little off topic, but I am in need of a Sensenich
M74DM-60 or 61 prop for my Tri-Pacer. In the course of the current
annual, my IA has determined that I have the wrong prop on my
airplane for the STC that placed the O-320 40 years ago. I have an
M76-57, so, according to the STC, my airplane is no longer airworthy
until I have the correct prop. I will consider any condition (as long
as it is airworthy), and, if you're within one day's driving distance
of Jacksonville, FL, I can come get it. In order to conserve
bandwidth on the mailing list, you can contact me off-list at
pj260(at)bellsouth.net or 904-223-9627. Thanks!
Sam Staton
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2008
Subject: RV7 : [ Terry McMillan ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available!
From: Email List PhotoShares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
(Listers - Sorry for the delay in processing this Photoshare; all of the incoming
Photoshares where getting caught by my email client's spam filter. I wondered
why nobody had posted a Photoshare in a long while... I've fixed the filter
and Photoshares should be processed in a normal period of time now. -Matt)
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Terry McMillan
Lists: AeroElectric-list,RV-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV10-List,RV9-List
Subject: Dual Battery System
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca.10.06.2008
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main PhotoShare Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a PhotoShare
If you wish to submit a PhotoShare of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Extra hole
From: "tomcostanza" <Tom(at)CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
Date: Oct 20, 2008
If some idiot builder (not me of course) drilled a #40 hole in the wrong place
in an external skin, and wanted to hide the mistake, what would you suggest?
I was thinking of a filler, but was afraid it might loosen and fall out.
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9521#209521
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2008
From: "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Extra hole
Dimple it and install "rivet to nowhere".
Nobody will ever notice, particularly after you paint it.
Regards,
Joe
N813MJ 48hrs
tomcostanza wrote:
>
>If some idiot builder (not me of course) drilled a #40 hole in the wrong place
in an external skin, and wanted to hide the mistake, what would you suggest?
I was thinking of a filler, but was afraid it might loosen and fall out.
>
>--------
>Clear Skies,
>Tom Costanza
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9521#209521
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Henderson" <wf-k(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Extra hole
Date: Oct 20, 2008
Use a rivet. Best filler around - for structure as well.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomcostanza
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 2:38 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Extra hole
If some idiot builder (not me of course) drilled a #40 hole in the wrong
place in an external skin, and wanted to hide the mistake, what would you
suggest? I was thinking of a filler, but was afraid it might loosen and
fall out.
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9521#209521
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extra hole
From: mtaylo17(at)msn.com
Date: Oct 20, 2008
Dimple it and put a rivet in it. If you want to fill ov er that then, it should
be OK... There are plenty of us "idiot builders" out there! Some of us even built
Grand Champions!
Mark Taylor
www.4sierratango.com
RV-7 N834ST
Grand Champion - Kit, Sun n Fun 2008
Bronze Lindy - Kit, Oshkosh 2008
------Original Message------
From: tomcostanza
Sender: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Oct 20, 2008 15:37
Subject: RV7-List: Extra hole
If some idiot builder (not me of course) drilled a #40 hole in the wrong place
in an external skin, and wanted to hide the mistake, what would you suggest?
I was thinking of a filler, but was afraid it might loosen and fall out.
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9521#209521
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Extra hole
Date: Oct 20, 2008
Dimple it, put a nice AN426 rivet in there and make it a "rivet to nowhere".
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph F. Giallo,
II
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Extra hole
Dimple it and install "rivet to nowhere".
Nobody will ever notice, particularly after you paint it.
Regards,
Joe
N813MJ 48hrs
tomcostanza wrote:
>
>If some idiot builder (not me of course) drilled a #40 hole in the wrong
place in an external skin, and wanted to hide the mistake, what would you
suggest? I was thinking of a filler, but was afraid it might loosen and
fall out.
>
>--------
>Clear Skies,
>Tom Costanza
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9521#209521
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extra hole
From: "tomcostanza" <Tom(at)CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
Date: Oct 20, 2008
Thanks all. Rivet to nowhere won't work...needs to be smooth on the other side.
>
> Tom: I never did such a thing either..... I used superfill, is a two part mix..
> once drye you sand and that is all.
Bert,
Are you flying with this repair? I mean, is the person who built the plane flying
with it? [Wink] And it is holding?
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9537#209537
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2008
Subject: Re: Extra hole
From: Franz Fux <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com>
Put in a flush rivet
Franz
On 20/10/08 12:37 PM, "tomcostanza" wrote:
>
> If some idiot builder (not me of course) drilled a #40 hole in the wrong place
> in an external skin, and wanted to hide the mistake, what would you suggest?
> I was thinking of a filler, but was afraid it might loosen and fall out.
>
> --------
> Clear Skies,
> Tom Costanza
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9521#209521
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Franz Fux
Director of Operations
Last Frontier Heliskiing
TLH Heliskiing
Box 1118 Vernon, BC, V1T 6N4
www.lastfrontierheli.com
www.tlhheli.com
Ph: 250 558-7980
cell: 250 260-0433
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2008
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Extra hole
On 14:23 2008-10-20 "tomcostanza" wrote:
> es.com>
> Thanks all. Rivet to nowhere won't work...needs to be smooth on the
> other side.
Well, then, dimple it from the *inside*! :)
How flush does it need to be on the inside? You could countersink the
outside, and the bump inside would be more flush. Or you could add a
doubler, and countersink both outside *and* inside, and rivet it
double-flush.
Where is it on the airframe that the butt-end of a rivet wouldn't be
acceptable on the inside? Just curious...
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extra hole
From: "tomcostanza" <Tom(at)CostanzaAndAssociates.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2008
> Where is it on the airframe that the butt-end of a rivet wouldn't be
> acceptable on the inside? Just curious...
Rob,
The xtra hole is in the bottom fuse skin (F-776) where it overlaps the bottom wing
skin. The 2 skins would be held apart by anything thicker than a thousandth
or two.
Right now I'm thinking of ever-so-slightly countersinking the inside of F-776 and
using filler. That would make the filler the shape of a cone instead of a
cylinder. The fat part of the cone would be on the inside, so it wouldn't fall
out, and it wouldn't fall in because the wing skin would be there.
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9633#209633
________________________________________________________________________________
From: ceengland(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Extra hole
Date: Oct 21, 2008
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Extra hole
Date: Oct 21, 2008
If the hole is overlapping the wing skin and is on the bottom of the
airframe, why not just leave it be? It sounds like if it where it overlaps
the wing skin, then its not coming into the cabin. Just make sure you debur
it so that you don't run into the cracking in the future.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomcostanza
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 5:24 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Re: Extra hole
> Where is it on the airframe that the butt-end of a rivet wouldn't be
> acceptable on the inside? Just curious...
Rob,
The xtra hole is in the bottom fuse skin (F-776) where it overlaps the
bottom wing skin. The 2 skins would be held apart by anything thicker than
a thousandth or two.
Right now I'm thinking of ever-so-slightly countersinking the inside of
F-776 and using filler. That would make the filler the shape of a cone
instead of a cylinder. The fat part of the cone would be on the inside, so
it wouldn't fall out, and it wouldn't fall in because the wing skin would be
there.
--------
Clear Skies,
Tom Costanza
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9633#209633
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Francis Herr <fherr(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Hi,
I am just about to start fitting my cowling, so that means the first
fiberglass work on my RV 7A.
Is there a particular type of epoxy/resin the group has found best for
the RV's (use the same or different epoxy for the cowling and fairings)?
Thanks
Francis
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Date: Oct 21, 2008
I cannot speak for others but I am using the west system with the
accompanying pumps. One squirt from each and it mixes just right.
Just my thoughts.
Scott R. Shook
RV-7A (Building)
N696JS (Reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francis Herr
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 9:21 AM
Subject: RV7-List: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Hi,
I am just about to start fitting my cowling, so that means the first
fiberglass work on my RV 7A.
Is there a particular type of epoxy/resin the group has found best for
the RV's (use the same or different epoxy for the cowling and fairings)?
Thanks
Francis
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
I would echo Scotts comments. I used the West Systems epoxy and was extremely
pleased with the results. Get some microballoons, some flocked cotton, and some
9oz cloth too, to use as filler to mix in with the epoxy where needed.
BTW, ACS has a really nice "starter kit" for fiberglassing that includes all of
the "tools" that make the job a whole lot easier. I bought it and am really
happy I did. I wouldn't have bought some of the things thinking I "wouldn't need
that", but in reality, they came in handy.
You haven't done the tail tips yet, I guess...?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
At 09:59 AM 10/21/2008 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>I cannot speak for others but I am using the west system with the
>accompanying pumps. One squirt from each and it mixes just right.
>
>Just my thoughts.
>
>
>Scott R. Shook
>RV-7A (Building)
>N696JS (Reserved)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francis Herr
>Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 9:21 AM
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV7-List: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I am just about to start fitting my cowling, so that means the first
>fiberglass work on my RV 7A.
>
>Is there a particular type of epoxy/resin the group has found best for
>the RV's (use the same or different epoxy for the cowling and fairings)?
>
>Thanks
>
>Francis
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2008
From: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com>
Subject: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Hi Matt,
Do you have lead on that West Systems starter kit? I can't seem to find
it on ACS's www site.
Thanks,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring.
~~
On Tue, 21 Oct 2008, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> I would echo Scotts comments. I used the West Systems epoxy and was
> extremely pleased with the results. Get some microballoons, some
> flocked cotton, and some 9oz cloth too, to use as filler to mix in with
> the epoxy where needed.
>
> BTW, ACS has a really nice "starter kit" for fiberglassing that includes
> all of the "tools" that make the job a whole lot easier. I bought it
> and am really happy I did. I wouldn't have bought some of the things
> thinking I "wouldn't need that", but in reality, they came in handy.
>
> You haven't done the tail tips yet, I guess...?
>
> Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Hi Nelson,
Here is a list of stuff to get from ACS to get your fiberglassing project off on the right foot. My empennage tips came out really nice using these ( http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=617&category=2975&log=63902&row=7 ).
Composite Tool Kit (Fiberglassing Starter Tool Kit)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/comptoolkit.php
West Systems Epoxy (Get the #105 Resin and #206 Hardner)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/westepoxy.php
West Systems Pump (These work great - Must Have)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/301PUMP.php
West Systems User Manual (Free! Get it!)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/neworderform.php?cmd=add&p=01-08750&q=1
9oz Cloth
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/7500.php
Gel Coat
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polyestergelCoats.php
Flocked Cotton (Course Filler)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/flockedcotton.php
Microballoons / Glass Bubbles (Fine Filler)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/bubbles.php
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
At 02:13 PM 10/21/2008 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi Matt,
>
>Do you have lead on that West Systems starter kit? I can't seem to find it on
ACS's www site.
>
>Thanks,
> /\/elson
>
>
>~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring. ~~
>
>On Tue, 21 Oct 2008, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>>I would echo Scotts comments. I used the West Systems epoxy and was extremely
pleased with the results. Get some microballoons, some flocked cotton, and
some 9oz cloth too, to use as filler to mix in with the epoxy where needed.
>>
>>BTW, ACS has a really nice "starter kit" for fiberglassing that includes all
of the "tools" that make the job a whole lot easier. I bought it and am really
happy I did. I wouldn't have bought some of the things thinking I "wouldn't
need that", but in reality, they came in handy.
>>
>>You haven't done the tail tips yet, I guess...?
>>
>>Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Francis Herr <fherr(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Thanks Matt,
No, I have not done the tail (or wing) tips yet. Building in my garage
and figured it was safer (and easier) to store the tips in the house
(under the beds) than attached in the garage.
Thanks again guys.
Francis
N968BF reserved
On Oct 21, 2008, at 4:52 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
I would echo Scotts comments. I used the West Systems epoxy and was
extremely pleased with the results. Get some microballoons, some
flocked cotton, and some 9oz cloth too, to use as filler to mix in
with the epoxy where needed.
BTW, ACS has a really nice "starter kit" for fiberglassing that
includes all of the "tools" that make the job a whole lot easier. I
bought it and am really happy I did. I wouldn't have bought some of
the things thinking I "wouldn't need that", but in reality, they came
in handy.
You haven't done the tail tips yet, I guess...?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
At 09:59 AM 10/21/2008 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
> I cannot speak for others but I am using the west system with the
> accompanying pumps. One squirt from each and it mixes just right.
>
> Just my thoughts.
>
>
> Scott R. Shook
> RV-7A (Building)
> N696JS (Reserved)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francis Herr
> Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 9:21 AM
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am just about to start fitting my cowling, so that means the first
> fiberglass work on my RV 7A.
>
> Is there a particular type of epoxy/resin the group has found best for
> the RV's (use the same or different epoxy for the cowling and
> fairings)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Francis
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2008
From: "RALPH HOOVER" <hooverra(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Francis,
West Systems 105 with 205 fast or 206 slow hardener. If you just get one
hardener use the slow as it gives you more time to work especially for
larger areas.
Ralph & Laura Hoover
RV7A N527LR
Flying as of this afternoon :)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francis Herr
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 12:21 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Hi,
I am just about to start fitting my cowling, so that means the first
fiberglass work on my RV 7A.
Is there a particular type of epoxy/resin the group has found best for
the RV's (use the same or different epoxy for the cowling and fairings)?
Thanks
Francis
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2008
From: "RALPH HOOVER" <hooverra(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
David,
I have found West products at both Boating supply and Hobby shops. Might
save some hazmat shipping!!
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 5:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Hi Matt,
Do you have lead on that West Systems starter kit? I can't seem to find
it on ACS's www site.
Thanks,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring.
~~
On Tue, 21 Oct 2008, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> I would echo Scotts comments. I used the West Systems epoxy and was
> extremely pleased with the results. Get some microballoons, some
> flocked cotton, and some 9oz cloth too, to use as filler to mix in with
> the epoxy where needed.
>
> BTW, ACS has a really nice "starter kit" for fiberglassing that includes
> all of the "tools" that make the job a whole lot easier. I bought it
> and am really happy I did. I wouldn't have bought some of the things
> thinking I "wouldn't need that", but in reality, they came in handy.
>
> You haven't done the tail tips yet, I guess...?
>
> Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2008
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: invitation to Slobovia Outernational Pumpkin Drop 2008
RV'ers,
Come on down to Slobovia Outernational (MS71), 10mi north of Jackson MS,
to eat some BBQ & participate in our 2nd annual Pumpkin Drop on Nov 8,
2008. Give us a call at 601-879-9596 if you need directions.
Charlie & Tupper
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: TCW Technologies products
Date: Oct 28, 2008
Fellow RV builders,
Just a note to let you know that the new products we had on display
at Oshkosh are now available and in stock.
We introduced two products:
1) The Intelligent Power Stabilizer (IPS) which allows critical
equipment in the plane, such as GPS, EFIS and engine monitors to be up
and running before and during engine starting without the need to carry
an auxiliary battery. Additionally, based on feedback from the show,
we've introduced an 8 amp model of this product as well.
2) The Intelligent Lighting Controller (ILC) which allows remote,
electronic switching of the primary aircraft lighting circuits and
includes the wig-wag function as well as dimming control of 3 lighting
circuits.
All the details are available on our web site. www.tcwtech.com
As always thanks for your support
Bob Newman RV-10 (40176)
TCW Technologies, LLC.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Here's my recent order to spruce for west systems.
The pumps completely change the game: less mess and perfect mixing.
Don't forget to add cloth.
1.00 of 01-25600 3 OZ MIXING CUP (PKG OF 100)
10.00 of 09-21200 BRUSH 1"
1.00 of 01-00318 WEST SYSTEM 301/303 PUMP PACK
1.00 of 09-28250 POLY-FIBER SUPERFIL EPOXY A&B
1.00 of 01-08200 WEST SYSTEM EPOXY KIT A-2 SLOW
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 finishing
******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 5:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
-->
Hi Matt,
Do you have lead on that West Systems starter kit? I can't seem to find it
on ACS's www site.
Thanks,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring.
~~
On Tue, 21 Oct 2008, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> I would echo Scotts comments. I used the West Systems epoxy and was
> extremely pleased with the results. Get some microballoons, some
> flocked cotton, and some 9oz cloth too, to use as filler to mix in
> with the epoxy where needed.
>
> BTW, ACS has a really nice "starter kit" for fiberglassing that
> includes all of the "tools" that make the job a whole lot easier. I
> bought it and am really happy I did. I wouldn't have bought some of
> the things thinking I "wouldn't need that", but in reality, they came in
handy.
>
> You haven't done the tail tips yet, I guess...?
>
> Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Oh, and yes, this is an order to a/c spruce.
-------------------
Here's my recent order to spruce for west systems.
The pumps completely change the game: less mess and perfect mixing.
Don't forget to add cloth.
1.00 of 01-25600 3 OZ MIXING CUP (PKG OF 100)
10.00 of 09-21200 BRUSH 1"
1.00 of 01-00318 WEST SYSTEM 301/303 PUMP PACK
1.00 of 09-28250 POLY-FIBER SUPERFIL EPOXY A&B
1.00 of 01-08200 WEST SYSTEM EPOXY KIT A-2 SLOW
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 finishing
******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 5:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Fiberglass epoxy of choice
-->
Hi Matt,
Do you have lead on that West Systems starter kit? I can't seem to find it
on ACS's www site.
Thanks,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring.
~~
On Tue, 21 Oct 2008, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> I would echo Scotts comments. I used the West Systems epoxy and was
> extremely pleased with the results. Get some microballoons, some
> flocked cotton, and some 9oz cloth too, to use as filler to mix in
> with the epoxy where needed.
>
> BTW, ACS has a really nice "starter kit" for fiberglassing that
> includes all of the "tools" that make the job a whole lot easier. I
> bought it and am really happy I did. I wouldn't have bought some of
> the things thinking I "wouldn't need that", but in reality, they came
> in
handy.
>
> You haven't done the tail tips yet, I guess...?
>
> Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: dralle(at)matronics.com
Subject: Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November!
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation
and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's through soley through the
Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible.
You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site ( http://forums.matronics.com ), Wiki site ( http://wiki.matronics.com ), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), List Browse ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisments.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every few days
reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the
bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution counts.
Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with
the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided
by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and
have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/).
These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective
web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product
line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support
of the Lists again this year!!
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods
afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with
a qualifying Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below:
https://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years. I know it sounds a little cliche, but you guys really
do feel like family.
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Contribution Site URL Clarification
Dear Listers,
In my List Fund Raiser kickoff email last night, I mistyped the URL for the *initial*
Contribution web site and couple of people reported receiving SSL certificate
errors. The actual payment entry pages where were correct, however, so
there were no certificate issues that impacted payment data. I'm sorry for the
confusion.
Please use the following URL to start your List Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of
these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying
Contribution too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Fund Raiser
A couple of years ago I implemented an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for
the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes
a
Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, he or she will instantly
cease to receive these Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its
just that simple. Don't you wish PBS worked that way! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and
software that are required to run a List Site like this. It also goes to pay for
the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill
to
keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of
the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to
control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance.
Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such
as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept
exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand
the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet
these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are
anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Reminder
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Fund Raiser Lagging Last Year By Over 30%...
As of the 13th, the Fund Raiser is currently about 30% behind last year in terms
of the number of Contributions. Yet, oddly the number of messages posted per
day is up by 10 to 20% on the average. It costs real money to run these Lists
and they are supported 100% though your Contributions during the Fund Raiser.
Won't you please take a minute right now to make your Contribution to keep
these Lists up and running?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's My Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on
the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing
List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades
enabling the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search
Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for 19+ years worth of online archive
data available for instant random search and access. And, it offsets the
many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications
that power this List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums,
Wiki and PhotoShare.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many
places on the Internet can you make all those statements these days?
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable
List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its
one of the best investments you can make in your Sport...
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What Members Are Saying...
Dear Listers,
November is the Annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists are supported solely
through your generous Contributions during this time. Please make your Contribution
today and pick up a really nice free gift at this same time:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Listers have been including some really nice comments regarding what the Lists
mean to them along with their Contributions this year. I've included a few of
them below. Please read them over and see if some perhaps echo your feelings
as well.
Thank you for your support this year!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Best bargain in the entire industry!!
-Owen B
Every year your lists are better, sure #1 in e-mail list in the world.
-Gary G
Thank you for an awesome site!
-Ashley M
Your lists are important to me and well worth paying for.
-Calvin A
Thank you for providing such and informative and ad free environment
to learn by.
-Myron H
As always, a valuable and extremely useful resource.
Stephen T
As always, a great service.
-Reade G
Very much appreciate this site and the communications it has
enabled between builders.
-Larry M
This service is worth every penny.
-Robert S
Great site! Thanks a ton for its functionality!
-Peter B
The RV-10 list feels like my community.
-Dave S
The lists are fantastic, a great source!
-Jimmy Y
I've learned a lot from the List.
-Gabriel F
A wonderful resource.
-Gerald G
Well done.
-Richard N
Years of good service.
-William M
Valuable service.
-Keith H
The site is quite helpful.
-Jon M
Very interesting List that I read form the beginning.
-Alain L
A well managed site.
-Carl B
Great service.
-Svein Kare J
Still the most useful program on the computer.
-Fergus K
Great contribution to my project!
-Robert K
Thanks for keeping a great list.
-Dt G
The List continues to provide excellent information.
-Tony C
This is a wonderful resource that has easily saved me a bunch on
my build-time.
-Ralph C
Thank you for providing a great service. The Zenith builder's community
would be in sad shape without the Zenith-List's.
-Terrence P
I really do get pleasure out of reading the List every day.
-Bill V
Great source of information.
-Arthur V
Thanks for a great service. Very enjoyable.
-Louis B
You know we all could not do without your support!!
-James S
Great resource!
-Douglas D
Thanks for the great service.
-John B
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...?
Dear Listers,
The percentage of people making a Contribution to support the Lists this year is
currently lagging behind last year by approximately 21%! I'm hoping that everyone
is just waiting until the last minute to show their support... ;-)
Please remember that it is solely your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members don't want to
support the Lists directly, then I will likely have to start adding advertisements
to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I *really* don't want to
have to start doing that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and
I think that a lot of the members appreciate that too.
Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
operation of all these Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: LOC
Dear Listers,
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort
of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Value of the List...
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some lame magazine or even just a single dinner out. Isn't the
List worth at least that much to you?
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support the
Lists?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far
during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively
through YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few More Days...
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser. There are
some great gifts available when you make a qualifying Contribution and there's
plenty still available. Don't forget that its *your* Contribution that keeps
the computers running, the electricity turned on, and the computer room AC cooling!
If you look forward to reading your List email each day, won't you please take
a minute right now to make your personal Contribution?
Credit Card or Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Personal Check:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just 3 Days Left - Please Make Your List Contribution Today!
There are only three days left until the end of this year's List Fund Raiser.
Please take a minute to show your support as so many others have this year and
make sure YOUR name is on the forthcoming List of Contributors 2008!
Its quick and easy using the secure web site with a credit card or PayPal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by sending your personal check to:
Matronics Lists c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
(Please write your email address on the check!)
Thank you in advance for your support of these List services!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What Listers Have Been Saying
Wow! Many of the members making a List Support Contribution this year have been
using the Comments field to leave a personal message about the Lists. Thank
you! I have included a number of them below. Please read over a few and see
if you perhaps can echo some of the same sentiments regarding the value of the
Lists to you...
There is only a couple more days left for this year's List Fund Raiser and we're
still way behind previous years. If you've been waiting until the last minute
to show your support, Now is the Time! Please make your Contribution and pick
up a great gift at the same time!
By Credit Card or Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or By Personal Check:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
Thank you in advance!!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
Here is some of the great feedback members have been including along with their
personal Contributions this year...
Over the years, the info I have received from the RV-List has
saved me thousands of dollars, and dozens of hours of time by
helping me avoid bad purchases, pointing me at vendors with
low prices and excellent support, and providing solutions to
the typical head scratchers that you run into.
Kevin H
Valuable service. Best List(s) on the Internet!
George A
Please accept this token not as an indicator of what
this list has been worth to me this past year.
Lew G
Great information and entertainment.
Tim V
Thanks again for another great year of service. This
project would be beyond me if it were not for the list.
Moreover, the friendships I have found are worth their
weight in GOLD!
Robert B
Great support you provide to all the subscribers!
Freddie H
Read it every day.
PF B
Thanks for your excellent management of the Matronics
Lists! Your services are head and shoulders above the
rest.
James M
Without the "List", there would be no Kolb "community".
Bill T
Thanks, Matt, for a great service! I've been monitoring
and using the lists since 1999.
Richard D
Thanks for such a terrific site and for all the work and
effort you put into it.
John R
A great service year after year.
John D
..another year of fantastic service.
Jerry B
This list is a great resource.
Arden A
Great list.
James M
Lists were a great help while building HRII N561FS.
John S
Great resources for both the beginner and experienced.
George R
Good service.
Gary G
The List is an invaluable resource!
William C
AeroElectric list is a great source of info and learning!
Janice J
Thank you, Matt for being there for us making it all happen
on the List for so many years - Great JOB!
Sam S
Thank you for providing a great venue. You definitely hit
the nail on the head with your solicitation asking if
readers look forward to receiving the email digests. I
certainly do and when I move from a dreamer to a builder, I
expect the anticipation will only increase.
Joe S
Thanks for a Perfect working list.
Hans-Peter R
Great List
Bryan K
Such a great selection of valuable forums!
David G
Nice job!
Walt E
Good resource...
Robert P
Thank you for another great year!
Scott S
I could not do this without you...
Robert D
I believe I've been a list member for over a decade
now. Thanks for the service!
Tim L
Great List
Hendrik W
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers,
Its November 30th and that means three things:..
1) Today I am now officially 45 years old...
2) It marks that last "official" day of this year's List Fund Raiser!
3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year!
If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and
no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support
their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way
to keep the List bills paid.
I will be posting the List of Contributors next week so make sure your name is
on it!
Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly
appreciated.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List of Contributors 2008
Dear Listers,
This year's Fund Raiser has drawn to a close and I want to thank everyone that
so generously made a contribution this year in support of the Matronics Email
List and Forum operation. Your generosity keeps the wheels on this cart and I
truly appreciate the many kind words of encouragement and financial reimbursement.
If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser, please
feel free to do so. The great List Fund Raiser gifts will be available
on the Contribution site for a little while longer, so hurry and make your Contribution
today and still get your great gift! Once again, the URL for the Contribution
web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by personal check to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of discounted merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated!
And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2008 List of Contributors current
as of 12/7/08! Have a look at this list of names as *these* are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you
enough for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser!
THANK YOU!
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2008.html
I will be shipping out all of the gifts around the end of December. In most cases,
gifts will be shipped via US Postal Service.
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
Greetings:
The only Double Sided Tape I could find at the hardware store was Scotch Brand
Double sided tape - looks like regular Scotch tape used on paper, except it is
sticky on BOTH sides. It seems that this tape might be a little to fragile to
help hold the wood forming blocks from moving the Trim Tab Skin, while bending
the Tabs. Have not tried it yet = trying to minimize my mistakes.
Any suggestions: What TAPE did you use and where did you buy it ???
Thanks, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Bell" <rbe21716(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: RV7
Date: Jan 03, 2009
Hi I am looking for an rv7 kit that has been started for a shorter
build for me will pay good money so if you know of any reply kind
regards Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2009
From: Ian Pentney <gh6gh6(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: RV7
Hi=0AI have an RV7 QB.=0AI have bought the wing kit, fuse kit, firewall for
ward kit and finish kit.=0AI was planning to use the Sam James cowl so I do
n't have the Vans cowl. =0AYou would have to buy-an engine a-prop and t
he cowl. Everything else is here. -=0ASo far I have bought =0Aone SL30,
=0Aone GRT HS, =0Aone GRT EIS4000, =0Aone GTX327, =0Aone PMA8000, =0Aone Ap
proach Systems PRO hub and harnesses =0Atwo Garmin 16X, =0ATruTrak ADI II,
=0AGertz heated pitot, wig wags,--=0AO2 bottle and regulator and instal
led, =0Atwo seat heaters, etc etc.=0AThis was going to be an IFR all the be
lls and whistles dream machine but the market forced me to down grade to VF
R fixed pitch=0AWings are done and have been on the fuselage,=0ATail is don
e.=0AThe panel is done. It is cut for one GRT HX and one GRT HS and two SL3
0s but I sent the HX and one of the SL30s back to reduce cost. The Approach
Systems harness is done up for two SL30s and both the HS and the HX EFIS d
isplays and the WX which I also sent back.=0AGear-canopy and engine mount
are here but not started.=0AWithout breaking out the tools and all extras
I have spent $73K so far. If you are interested I will break out what ever
you don't want-like tools etc and send you an accurate spread sheet of wh
at I paid for what you would get. =0AI have lots of pictures=0AI am in Thun
der Bay Ontario which may or may not be a problem for you. =0AIan =0APhone
888-254-3935=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Russ
ell Bell =0ATo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Fri
day, January 2, 2009 10:42:53 PM=0ASubject: RV7-List: RV7=0A=0A=0AHi I am l
ooking for an rv7 kit that has been started- for a shorter build for me w
==============0A=0A=0A _____________________
_____________________________________________=0AYahoo! Canada Toolbar: Sear
ch from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Vs" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com>
Subject: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
Date: Jan 02, 2009
I used double sided carpet tape that I got at Lowes. Home Depot also sell
it. It workes fine.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Garey Wittich
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 7:20 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
Greetings:
The only Double Sided Tape I could find at the hardware store was Scotch
Brand Double sided tape - looks like regular Scotch tape used on paper,
except it is sticky on BOTH sides. It seems that this tape might be a
little to fragile to help hold the wood forming blocks from moving the Trim
Tab Skin, while bending the Tabs. Have not tried it yet = trying to
minimize my mistakes.
Any suggestions: What TAPE did you use and where did you buy it ???
Thanks, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV7
Date: Jan 03, 2009
I have a Van's cowl for an RV7. Located in East Central Alabama. Too
awkward to ship it seems to me.
Allen Fulmer
Alexander City, AL 35010
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ian Pentney
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 10:43 PM
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7
Hi
I have an RV7 QB.
I have bought the wing kit, fuse kit, firewall forward kit and finish kit.
I was planning to use the Sam James cowl so I don't have the Vans cowl.
You would have to buy an engine a prop and the cowl. Everything else is
here.
So far I have bought
one SL30,
one GRT HS,
one GRT EIS4000,
one GTX327,
one PMA8000,
one Approach Systems PRO hub and harnesses
two Garmin 16X,
TruTrak ADI II,
Gertz heated pitot, wig wags,
O2 bottle and regulator and installed,
two seat heaters, etc etc.
This was going to be an IFR all the bells and whistles dream machine but
the market forced me to down grade to VFR fixed pitch
Wings are done and have been on the fuselage,
Tail is done.
The panel is done. It is cut for one GRT HX and one GRT HS and two SL30s
but I sent the HX and one of the SL30s back to reduce cost. The Approach
Systems harness is done up for two SL30s and both the HS and the HX EFIS
displays and the WX which I also sent back.
Gear canopy and engine mount are here but not started.
Without breaking out the tools and all extras I have spent $73K so far. If
you are interested I will break out what ever you don't want like tools etc
and send you an accurate spread sheet of what I paid for what you would get.
I have lots of pictures
I am in Thunder Bay Ontario which may or may not be a problem for you.
Ian
Phone 888-254-3935
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
From: Russell Bell <rbe21716(at)bigpond.net.au>
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 2, 2009 10:42:53 PM
Subject: RV7-List: RV7
Hi I am looking for an rv7 kit that has been started for a shorter build
for me will pay good money so if you know of any reply kind regards Russ
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
D========================
=========
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=========
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=========
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=========
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
Date: Jan 03, 2009
After trashing two trim tabs (wood blocks, tape, and all) I finally took 3rd
purchased tab to local sheet metal shop. Should have done it first time!
Allen Fulmer
RV7 wiring
Alexander City, AL 35010
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>>>Garey Wittich
>>>Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 9:20 PM
>>>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: RV7-List: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Greetings:
>>>
>>>The only Double Sided Tape I could find at the hardware
>>>store was Scotch Brand Double sided tape - looks like
>>>regular Scotch tape used on paper, except it is sticky on
>>>BOTH sides. It seems that this tape might be a little to
>>>fragile to help hold the wood forming blocks from moving the
>>>Trim Tab Skin, while bending the Tabs. Have not tried it
>>>yet = trying to minimize my mistakes.
>>>
>>>Any suggestions: What TAPE did you use and where did you buy it ???
>>>
>>>Thanks, Garey
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
Date: Jan 03, 2009
From: "Streiker, Stephen D." <steve(at)streiker.com>
What was their secret?
s
Stephen D. Streiker, Esq.
steve(at)streiker.com
Mobile +1 323 252 0277
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Allen Fulmer
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 12:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
After trashing two trim tabs (wood blocks, tape, and all) I finally took 3rd
purchased tab to local sheet metal shop. Should have done it first time!
Allen Fulmer
RV7 wiring
Alexander City, AL 35010
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>>>Garey Wittich
>>>Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 9:20 PM
>>>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: RV7-List: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Greetings:
>>>
>>>The only Double Sided Tape I could find at the hardware
>>>store was Scotch Brand Double sided tape - looks like
>>>regular Scotch tape used on paper, except it is sticky on
>>>BOTH sides. It seems that this tape might be a little to
>>>fragile to help hold the wood forming blocks from moving the
>>>Trim Tab Skin, while bending the Tabs. Have not tried it
>>>yet = trying to minimize my mistakes.
>>>
>>>Any suggestions: What TAPE did you use and where did you buy it ???
>>>
>>>Thanks, Garey
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
Date: Jan 03, 2009
They had a brake that had various width "clamps" to hold down just the tab. Then
they would gently fold the main trim tab out of the way as they made the 90
deg. bends. 10 minutes, no charge. (Of course, I had known the owner for years.)
HTH
Allen
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Streiker,
>>>Stephen D.
>>>Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 7:24 PM
>>>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV7-List: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>What was their secret?
>>>
>>>s
>>>
>>>
>>>Stephen D. Streiker, Esq.
>>>steve(at)streiker.com
>>>Mobile +1 323 252 0277
>>>
>>>
= - The RV7-List Email Forum -
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 15, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Dwg 4 Error ( Left Elevator Assy - RV7 & RV8)
Possibly wrong dimension shown: Lower right corner of Dwg 4 "Electric Trim Assy"
shows a dimension of - 3/8" Forward edge of EET-602B-L to forward edge of E-616PP:
The exposed "lip" on the E-615PP (Trim Access Plate) after being riveting
it to the Elev Skin is 3/8" wide. Thus the 3/8" dimension shown should be more
like 1/2". I noticed this problem AFTER drilling, dimpling and clecoing the
EET-602B-L & R to the Trim Cover Plate and trying to screw down the Trim Access
Plate (interference between the E615PP Reinforcing Plate and the EET-602B-L
& R occurred). Hope this helps somebody !!
Found the EET-602B-L & R were labeled wrong on the Parts = L should be R and R
should be L
Guess this ALL part of the learning curve - sure is frustrating.
Garey Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires
Greetings:
Looking for a better solution than routing the Trim Tab Servo wires thru the hole
in the Elevator Spar (where the long Servo Motor Screw goes).
Does anybody have any pictures or diagrams of the Wire Routing of the Trim Tab
Motor wires in the Elevator to the Horizontal STABILIZER to the fuselage.
Not much given on this subject on Matronics.
Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires
At 10:01 PM 1/24/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Garey Wittich
>
>Greetings:
>
>Looking for a better solution than routing the Trim Tab Servo wires thru the hole
in the Elevator Spar (where the long Servo Motor Screw goes).
>
>Does anybody have any pictures or diagrams of the Wire Routing of the Trim Tab
Motor wires in the Elevator to the Horizontal STABILIZER to the fuselage.
>
>Not much given on this subject on Matronics.
>
>Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
Hi Garey,
I just did this task. I simply drilled a 1/4" hole above the servo screw hole
and added a little black plastic bushing. Attached is a picture.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV (res)
Building Time Since July 2008: 728.75 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael" <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: DG for sale
Date: Feb 05, 2009
I have a overhauled Sigma-Tek DG for sale. Model # 4000B-30 with NO
heading bug, S/N T66115M for sale. Unit has never been installed since
OH by Mid Continent Instruments VNY. I don't have the FAA 8130-3 for
some reason. I was going to install in my RV7 but I went Blue Mountain
EFIS instead. I will ship anywhere in the US. $500 firm..no haggling
folks. email me if interested.
Mike
RV7
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael" <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: DG for sale
Date: Feb 05, 2009
Email me for the DG for sale @ g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 3:39 PM
Subject: RV7-List: DG for sale
I have a overhauled Sigma-Tek DG for sale. Model # 4000B-30 with NO
heading bug, S/N T66115M for sale. Unit has never been installed since
OH by Mid Continent Instruments VNY. I don't have the FAA 8130-3 for
some reason. I was going to install in my RV7 but I went Blue Mountain
EFIS instead. I will ship anywhere in the US. $500 firm..no haggling
folks. email me if interested.
Mike
RV7
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Elevator Horn Weldment - Installation
Greetings:
Ref - RV-8A:
When trying to attach the Elev Horn Weldment to the Elev Spar and Root Rib, the
Weldment did NOT lay flat against the Spar and Root Rib simultaneously. Measured
the Weldment's angle of 68 degrees. The angle formed by the Spar and Root
Rib is 70 degrees. Inorder to get the Weldment angle to spread from 68 degrees
to 70 degrees, MUCH force is needed. This does not seem right as too much
stress would be applied to the Spar / Root Rib / Weldemnt combination.
Both Left and Right Weldments measure 68 degrees. (I have an OLDER Kit, so maybe
this could be the problem where the NEWER Kit is 70 degrees.)
Has anybody else experienced this and how did you handle it ??
Appreciate your help !!!!
Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2009
From: Brian Gawronski <six_rabbits(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Elevator Horn Weldment - Installation
Garey,I'm at the same point building the right elevator for my -7. -Same
parts as the -8 according to my Drawing 4PP Rev 2. -As near as I can meas
ure, the angle is 66 degrees on everything, meaning both left and right ele
v. horns, and the angle the spar makes to the root rib when mated to the sk
in. -Are you measuring 70 degrees with the spar and root rib in position
on the skin? -It's the skin that sets the angle between the spar and the
root rib.To make the horn fit tight to both the spar and the root rib, I ne
eded to file the end of the spar at the apex of the angle, as mentioned in
the plans. -I have an early -7 kit, though I don't think much about the e
levator has been changed since the -7 was introduced. -As of yesterday, n
ot all the parts have been pre-punched. -How do I know? -I just had to
place an order to replace the tip ribs, and pre-punched E-604s and E-605s a
re not available from "the list".-Hope this helps.Brian=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Yehuda" <yuda4(at)aol.com>
Subject: RE: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 02/19/09
Date: Feb 20, 2009
Please remove me from the list.
Thank you
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV7-List Digest
Server
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 11:58 PM
Subject: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 02/19/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter
09-02-19&Archive=RV7
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
2009-02-19&Archive=RV7
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV7-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 02/19/09: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 09, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Elevator - Elev Trim Tab Skin (E-619) and Elev Counterbalance
Skin (E-713)
Greetings:
Ref: RV-8A (RV-7 is the same = Drawing 4)
Looked on Matronics, but found no answers to these questions
Question 1:
When building the Elev Trim Tab Skin it says: 1) bend the Skin with the wooden
brake, 2) bend the 2 metal "tabs" that are at each end, 3) match drill the Trim
Tab Horns (E-717 and E-718) to the Skin. So far no problem, BUT now how do
you then dimple the Skin where the E-718 (INBOARD Trim Tab Horn) goes as the 2
rivets for it are approx 1/8" from the bent Skin Tab ????? One of the 2 rivets
is also near the bent trailing edge which makes it impossible to get at.
Question 2:
Instructions say to "bevel the inboard and aft edges of the Counterbalance Skin
(E-713) locally where the Counterbalance Skin overlaps the (Elev) Spar and Rib
flanges to provide a smooth transition between the Counterbalance Skin and the
Elevator Skin." This does not make sense. I can see "beveling" the Elev Skin
"at the point" where the Counterbalance Skin goes UNDER the Elev Skin to make
a smooth transition. Am I missing something ???
Appreciate your help,
Garey Wittich RV-8A Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Woods" <rwshooter(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Elevator - Elev Trim Tab Skin (E-619) and Elev Counterbalance
Skin (E-713)
Date: Mar 10, 2009
Hi Garey,
I if you have already bent your trailing edge, things are going to be
tough. Just spread it out and get in there. If you have only 1/8" edge
distance something doesn't sound right. Mine is 1/4". Sure its lined up
right? Worst case you will have to grind down your dimple die, female one
only, so it will fit. Do it now anyhow because you will need it later trust
me. On beveling, you bevel the underlying pieces so that when you rivet all
together there is no budging from underneath. Don't think too much on this
one just mark off an area and get after it with a small scotch bright wheel
until it is some what thinner, no biggie.......Good luck If you decide to
do your trim tab over, most everyone has more than twice, let me know and I
will guide you through the easy way and better in my opinion. No blind
rivets on the bottom! I'm a proud member of the one time trim tab club:)
Robb....7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 7:33 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Elevator - Elev Trim Tab Skin (E-619) and Elev
Counterbalance Skin (E-713)
Greetings:
Ref: RV-8A (RV-7 is the same = Drawing 4)
Looked on Matronics, but found no answers to these questions
Question 1:
When building the Elev Trim Tab Skin it says: 1) bend the Skin with the
wooden brake, 2) bend the 2 metal "tabs" that are at each end, 3) match
drill the Trim Tab Horns (E-717 and E-718) to the Skin. So far no problem,
BUT now how do you then dimple the Skin where the E-718 (INBOARD Trim Tab
Horn) goes as the 2 rivets for it are approx 1/8" from the bent Skin Tab
????? One of the 2 rivets is also near the bent trailing edge which makes
it impossible to get at.
Question 2:
Instructions say to "bevel the inboard and aft edges of the Counterbalance
Skin (E-713) locally where the Counterbalance Skin overlaps the (Elev) Spar
and Rib flanges to provide a smooth transition between the Counterbalance
Skin and the Elevator Skin." This does not make sense. I can see
"beveling" the Elev Skin "at the point" where the Counterbalance Skin goes
UNDER the Elev Skin to make a smooth transition. Am I missing something
???
Appreciate your help,
Garey Wittich RV-8A Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ???
Greetings:
What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes in the
Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2009
Subject: Re: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ???
From: JOHN STIEGELMEYER <jstiegel(at)dishmail.net>
JB Weld may be a good plug. I used it to seal the forward windscreen to the
alum frame then glassed it up. RV-7A tip up quick build.
On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 12:02 AM, Garey Wittich
wrote:
>
>
> Greetings:
>
> What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
> in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
>
> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>
> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2009
Subject: Re: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ???
From: Larry Helming <lrhelming(at)gmail.com>
superfil will work fine. It is epoxy based. LH
On Mon, Mar 30, 2009 at 10:33 AM, JOHN STIEGELMEYER
wrote:
> JB Weld may be a good plug. I used it to seal the forward windscreen to
> the alum frame then glassed it up. RV-7A tip up quick build.
>
> On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 12:02 AM, Garey Wittich <
> gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>>
>> Greetings:
>>
>> What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
>> in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
>>
>> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>>
>> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: new RV-7A web site domain
Date: Apr 02, 2009
my starband domain will be going away as fast as i make it happen
the new URL for my builder's web site is
www.meyette.us/RV-7Ahome.htm
please update your bookmarks
brian
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Wire splicing technique
Date: Apr 03, 2009
I've been using a wire splicing technique that I think works very well. As
part of doing a bunch more splicing recently, when I added my SDS ECU into
my STi engine wiring harness, I took pics & just created a new page that
shows the products and techniques used. Any feedback from it, please let
me know.
www.meyette.us/crimping.htm
hope it's helpful,
brian
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2009
From: "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Norcal RV community
I'm relocating to the San Jose area and am interested in connecting with
the local RV community. My 7A is in the paint shop on the east coast and
I'd like to move it out here but haven't found much in the way of
hangars, etc. Any comments/suggestions, etc. on ways to proceed would be
greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Joe
N813MJ
60 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Norcal RV community
At 06:53 AM 4/29/2009 Wednesday, you wrote:
>
>I'm relocating to the San Jose area and am interested in connecting with the local
RV community. My 7A is in the paint shop on the east coast and I'd like to
move it out here but haven't found much in the way of hangars, etc. Any comments/suggestions,
etc. on ways to proceed would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Regards,
>
>Joe
>N813MJ
>60 hrs
Hi Joe,
You should check out the Livermore Municipal Airport (KLVK). Lots of hangers,
reasonably prices (sort of), and a ton of RV activity. There's probably at least
20-30 RVs.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Should Have Put The Gear On When The Plans Said...
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2009
From: "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Norcal RV community
Matt,
Thanks - I'll check into it (hopefully this weekend). Is there anyone in
particular to contact?
Regards,
Joe
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>At 06:53 AM 4/29/2009 Wednesday, you wrote:
>
>
>>
>>I'm relocating to the San Jose area and am interested in connecting with the
local RV community. My 7A is in the paint shop on the east coast and I'd like
to move it out here but haven't found much in the way of hangars, etc. Any comments/suggestions,
etc. on ways to proceed would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Joe
>>N813MJ
>>60 hrs
>>
>>
>
>Hi Joe,
>
>You should check out the Livermore Municipal Airport (KLVK). Lots of hangers,
reasonably prices (sort of), and a ton of RV activity. There's probably at least
20-30 RVs.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880
>Should Have Put The Gear On When The Plans Said...
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Norcal RV community
You might want to get a hold of Silvia Kersh ( smkersh(at)ci.livermore.ca.us ) 925-373-5392
at the LVK office. She can get you some details on what the hanger
list wait is and get your name on the list. In the mean time, she might have
some info on who you might be able to bunk up with. The EAA chapter is pretty
active and has some nice guys, too.
Matt
At 09:49 AM 4/29/2009 Wednesday, you wrote:
>
>Matt,
>
>Thanks - I'll check into it (hopefully this weekend). Is there anyone in particular
to contact?
>
>Regards,
>
>Joe
>
>Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>>At 06:53 AM 4/29/2009 Wednesday, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I'm relocating to the San Jose area and am interested in connecting with the
local RV community. My 7A is in the paint shop on the east coast and I'd like
to move it out here but haven't found much in the way of hangars, etc. Any comments/suggestions,
etc. on ways to proceed would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>
>>>Joe
>>>N813MJ
>>>60 hrs
>>>
>>
>>Hi Joe,
>>
>>You should check out the Livermore Municipal Airport (KLVK). Lots of hangers,
reasonably prices (sort of), and a ton of RV activity. There's probably at
least 20-30 RVs.
>>
>>Best regards,
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880
>>Should Have Put The Gear On When The Plans Said...
>>
>>
>>
>>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Yehuda" <yuda4(at)aol.com>
Subject: RE: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/06/09
Date: May 07, 2009
PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM YOUR LIST.
THANKS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV7-List Digest
Server
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 11:58 PM
Subject: RV7-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/06/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter
09-05-06&Archive=RV7
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
2009-05-06&Archive=RV7
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV7-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Wed 05/06/09: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer(at)internet49.com>
Subject: RV10 Tail Kit for Sale
Date: May 08, 2009
I'm posting this for a local RV-6 pilot who is unable to complete his
RV10 project. The project is located at Calaveras Airport San Andreas,
CA. (KCPU)
--Larry Mersek
RV-6, flying
RV10 Tail Kit for sale. Vertical and rudder are built. The horizontal
is drilled to fit, dimpled, countersunk, and has been clecoed together
before. It is ready for primer and priced at $2500. Marc at (209)
609-1947. fieldbaren(at)volcano.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips...
Dear Listers,
I've been pondering for a while how to "label" the various button functions of
the Infinity stick grips I have wired up in the front and back of the RV-8. I
spent some time today with the 'ol CAD program making a caricature drawing of
the Infinity stick grip and buttons and adding some labeling. My plan is to
silk screen the attached layout right to the instrument panel in the front, and
to a small metal piece for the back. The cockpit and instrument panel will
be black, so the diagram should pop nicely on that background.
Just thought I'd pass on my efforts.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Laying Out Carpet Patterns In CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips...
Dear Listers,
I've been pondering for a while how to "label" the various button functions of
the Infinity stick grips I have wired up in the front and back of the RV-8. I
spent some time today with the 'ol CAD program making a caricature drawing of
the Infinity stick grip and buttons and adding some labeling. My plan is to
silk screen the attached layout right to the instrument panel in the front, and
to a small metal piece for the back. The cockpit and instrument panel will
be black, so the diagram should pop nicely on that background.
Just thought I'd pass on my efforts.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Laying Out Carpet Patterns In CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Must-Have Tool Tip...
Dear Listers,
I don't know, maybe everyone but me already knew about this little gem of a tool,
but in case you missed it, I thought I share. If you don't have one of these,
run - don't walk - down to your local Home Depot or Ace Hardware store and
get one! All of those #8 screws in the RVs are a giant pain to work in and out
and some are just impossible to get to. I've been using this little guy on
the RV-8 project and can't image not having it now. The bendable shaft is really
strong and you can bend the heck out of it without impacting the torque.
Its about $13 at Home Depot which is a great deal considering how handy it is.
Here's a link to it on the Ace Hardware web page. I also attached a picture of
mine attached to my Dewalt electric screw driver.
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus--pi-2467822.html
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Fitting Wheel Pants - Ug, These Suck...
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2009
From: rhatkinson(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Must-Have Tool Tip...
Hi Matt,
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-Thanks 4 the review &
recomendation.
Not a builder, [yet] but know this will be useful in tool collection.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 11:32:01 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV7-List: Must-Have Tool Tip...
Dear Listers,
I don't know, maybe everyone but me already knew about this little gem of a
tool, but in case you missed it, I thought I share. =C2-If you don't hav
e one of these, run - don't walk - down to your local Home Depot or Ace Har
dware store and get one! =C2-All of those #8 screws in the RVs are a gian
t pain to work in and out and some are just impossible to get to. =C2-I'v
e been using this little guy on the RV-8 project and can't image not having
it now. =C2-The bendable shaft is really strong and you can bend the hec
k out of it without impacting the torque. =C2-Its about $13 at Home Depot
which is a great deal considering how handy it is. =C2-
Here's a link to it on the Ace Hardware web page. =C2-I also attached a p
icture of mine attached to my Dewalt electric screw driver. =C2-
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus-eazypower-flex-a-bi
t-plus--pi-2467822.html
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Fitting Wheel Pants - Ug, These Suck...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Must-Have Tool Tip...
Date: May 30, 2009
You can also get a tool like that, except it's 1/4" square drive, instead of
the screwdriver hex shown. Also very useful, especially with a universal
joint on the end of it.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 11:32 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Must-Have Tool Tip...
Dear Listers,
I don't know, maybe everyone but me already knew about this little gem of a
tool, but in case you missed it, I thought I share. If you don't have one
of these, run - don't walk - down to your local Home Depot or Ace Hardware
store and get one! All of those #8 screws in the RVs are a giant pain to
work in and out and some are just impossible to get to. I've been using
this little guy on the RV-8 project and can't image not having it now. The
bendable shaft is really strong and you can bend the heck out of it without
impacting the torque. Its about $13 at Home Depot which is a great deal
considering how handy it is.
Here's a link to it on the Ace Hardware web page. I also attached a picture
of mine attached to my Dewalt electric screw driver.
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus-eazypower-flex-a-bit
-plus--pi-2467822.html
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Fitting Wheel Pants - Ug, These Suck...
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
17:53:00
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Heyden Thomas <vmax737(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding cano
py on the RV-7?
Thanks=2C
Vmax
_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tut
orial_QuickAdd_062009
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
From: Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
Heyden Thomas wrote:
>
>
> Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding
> canopy on the RV-7?
Just a moment ............ back now from revisiting the issue; yup,
still a personal preference item with no chance of changing anyone's
opinion.
IMHO the question is: do you want to give up comfort while taxiing on
hot days for a somewhat less obstructed view out of the canopy?
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A slider, Airworthiness Inspection scheduled for next week
http://www.newtech.com/n14se/n14se.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Jun 03, 2009
slider:
It looks cooler on the ground and taxi
It is cooler to taxi on hot days
More protection for instruments in rainy weather
tilt:
Much better visibility and a feeling of openness when flying
I originally had a slider for my kit. After flying in several RVs
with sliders and tilts I exchanged my slider hardware for a tilt and
built it with a tilt.
If I built another plane I would probably stick with a tilt-- but I
might waver a bit. Either way they are great planes.
Get rides in both and see which YOU prefer.
dave
RV 7A, 77 hours and in the paint shop
On Jun 3, 2009, at 5:12 AM, Heyden Thomas wrote:
>
>
> Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs
> sliding canopy on the RV-7?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vmax
>
>
> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE. See how.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)johndeere.com>
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Subject: Tilt vs Slider
I agree it is a personal preference, but the deciding factor for me was eas
y maintenance access to the back of the instrument panel - so I built a til
t up. But as Dave said, either way it's a great airplane.
Paul A. Fisher
RV-7A N18PF (hopefully flying soon!)
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat
ronics.com] On Behalf Of David Cudney
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 09:45
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider
slider:
It looks cooler on the ground and taxi
It is cooler to taxi on hot days
More protection for instruments in rainy weather
tilt:
Much better visibility and a feeling of openness when flying
I originally had a slider for my kit. After flying in several RVs with sli
ders and tilts I exchanged my slider hardware for a tilt and built it with
a tilt.
If I built another plane I would probably stick with a tilt-- but I might w
aver a bit. Either way they are great planes.
Get rides in both and see which YOU prefer.
dave
RV 7A, 77 hours and in the paint shop
On Jun 3, 2009, at 5:12 AM, Heyden Thomas wrote:
Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding cano
py on the RV-7?
Thanks,
Vmax
________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail(r). See how.<http://win
dowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Quic
kAdd_062009>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
From: Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
I fly a 6(adopted)with a slider and I have been for rides in tip ups. Botto
m line it is personal preface. =0A=0AThe deciding factor for me is safety.
Look around the web and you can find some pictures and a video or two of RV
s on there backs. It is obvious (to me) that there is little protection in
front of the seats with the tip up. With the slider you have the roll bar i
n front and a bulkhead behind for rollover protection. I know of at least o
ne guy that built a tip up and unfortunately ended up on his back when he r
ebuilt it as a slider. Obviously no one intends to end a flight with there
plane upside down but stuff happens. =0A=0ATo me safety out weighed the vis
ibility factor. I am building a 7 and it will be a slider. Whatever you bui
ld you will be happy with it.=0A=0A Mike Divan=0AN64GH - RV6 (flying) =0Aht
tp://n64gh.blogspot.com/=0AFREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER
FOR YOURS!=0ARemember it is the Solder, Sailor, Airman, Marine and Cost Gu
ard that guarantee your freedom NOT the "community organizer"!=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Heyden Thomas <vmax737@hotma
il.com>=0ATo: RV7 =0ASent: Wednesday, June 3, 2009
5:12:13 AM=0ASubject: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider=0A=0A =0A=0ACould someone pl
ease revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding canopy on the RV-7?
=0A=0AThanks,=0A=0AVmax=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AInsert m
===========0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
From: Larry Helming <lrhelming(at)gmail.com>
Find a picture of each type canopy. Decide if you want a bar around,
ove and infront of you or one behind and above you. The tipup might be a
bit more airtight. The slider could be cooler looking with your arm hangin
g
out as you taxi. Each is a challange to install. Tipup is prone to
chipping the canopy at the rear lower edges. The slider seems to leak air
infrom the rear. I built the tipup myself. If doing it again, I would try
the slider.
Tfhe majority of builders tend to go with the slider and they want to be
cool looking and somewhat cooler in temp when on the ground.
Good Luck. Indiana Larry
On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 7:12 AM, Heyden Thomas wrote:
>
>
> Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding
> canopy on the RV-7?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vmax
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=C2=AE. See how.
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
In God I Trust.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Jun 03, 2009
I've heard of problems with tilt-ups getting water inside the avionics.
I have a 7A with a slider and when I wash the plane or it rains hard, I
get "some" small amount of water dripping from the junction of the
slider and the windscreen. Does anyone have a cleaver way of preventing
these leaks?
Garry Stout
Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Jun 03, 2009
yeah - a guy named Fred Stucklen in CT did a clever thing with waterproof
fabric over the area, held in place by velcro strips fwd & aft
i'll see if i can scare up some pics of it
brian
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garry
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider
I've heard of problems with tilt-ups getting water inside the avionics. I
have a 7A with a slider and when I wash the plane or it rains hard, I get
"some" small amount of water dripping from the junction of the slider and
the windscreen. Does anyone have a cleaver way of preventing these leaks?
Garry Stout
Tampa, FL
05:53:00
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
From: Franz Fux <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com>
I have a slider, flying for 300h now, I choose it because I believe it
offers better protection in case of an unfortunate event when you end up
upside down on the ground, hopefully I would also be able to slide it back
enough to get out. Tip up are easier to work behind the panel and offer
better all around view, although I put in some access panels ahead of the
windshield which work great,
Franz
On 03/06/09 11:03 AM, "Larry Helming" wrote:
> Find a picture of each type canopy.- Decide if you want a bar around, ove
-and
> infront of you or one behind and above you.- The tipup might be a bit mor
e
> airtight.- The slider could be cooler looking with your arm hanging out a
s you
> taxi.- Each is a challange to install.- Tipup is prone to chipping the ca
nopy
> at the rear lower edges.- The slider seems to leak air infrom the rear.-
I
> built the tipup myself.- If doing it again, I would try the slider.-
> -
> Tfhe majority of builders tend to go with the slider and they want to be
cool
> looking and somewhat cooler in temp when on the ground.-
> -
> Good Luck.- Indiana Larry
>
> On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 7:12 AM, Heyden Thomas wrote
:
>>
>>
>> Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding c
anopy
>> on the RV-7?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Vmax
>>
>>
>>
>> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE. See how.
>> <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_T
utori
>> al_QuickAdd_062009>
>>
>>
>> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
>> <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_T
utori
>> al_QuickAdd_062009>
>> ttp://forums.matronics.com
>> <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_T
utori
>> al_QuickAdd_062009>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_T
utori
>> al_QuickAdd_062009>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Subject: Tilt vs Slider
Sweet..Post them here cus I have the same issue on my tip up...water on the
GNS430W does not sound like a good idea
________________________________
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat
ronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 12:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider
yeah - a guy named Fred Stucklen in CT did a clever thing with waterproof f
abric over the area, held in place by velcro strips fwd & aft
i'll see if i can scare up some pics of it
brian
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Jun 03, 2009
here's a picture of how Fred covered his avionics under the tipup
i plan to do something similar
the nylon is held in place fwd & aft by velcro strips
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garry
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider
I've heard of problems with tilt-ups getting water inside the avionics. I
have a 7A with a slider and when I wash the plane or it rains hard, I get
"some" small amount of water dripping from the junction of the slider and
the windscreen. Does anyone have a cleaver way of preventing these leaks?
Garry Stout
Tampa, FL
05:53:00
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
From: Larry Helming <lrhelming(at)gmail.com>
I have a tip up. I replace the rubber caulking around the area where the
canopy frame meets the fuselage at each annual. ( it seems to get squished a
bit) In addition, I have built what I call a drain/gutter made of heavy
plastic sheet that is glued to the sub panel. It lets any water that comes
in drain to the side where it misses the critical electronics. IN ADDITION,
I park outside when at Oshkosh under a canopy cover. I have hear of others
taking along a roll of electrician's tape and taping that critical seam
while parked without cover at Oshkosh. I have a fiberglas strip covering
the rear canopy seam cut.
After four years and flying, some through rain -- but not a lot of it, I
have not had damage to the electonics due to water. (KNOCK ON WOOD)
Indiana Larry
On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 2:25 PM, Brian Meyette wrote:
> yeah - a guy named Fred Stucklen in CT did a clever thing with waterproof
> fabric over the area, held in place by velcro strips fwd & aft
> i'll see if i can scare up some pics of it
> brian
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Garry
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 03, 2009 2:55 PM
> *To:* rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider
>
> I've heard of problems with tilt-ups getting water inside the avionics.
> I have a 7A with a slider and when I wash the plane or it rains hard, I get
> "some" small amount of water dripping from the junction of the slider and
> the windscreen. Does anyone have a cleaver way of preventing these leaks?
>
> Garry Stout
> Tampa, FL
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
In God I Trust.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
From: steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
If you still fly with a training wheel on the nose, then you might as well
build the tip- up.- However...
--- On Wed, 6/3/09, Steven Eberhart wrote:
From: Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Wednesday, June 3, 2009, 9:00 AM
Heyden Thomas wrote:
#yiv1231070661 .hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv1231070661 {
font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding cano
py on the RV-7?
Just a moment ............ back now from revisiting the issue; yup, still a
personal preference item with no chance of changing anyone's opinion.-
IMHO the question is: do you want to give up comfort while taxiing on hot d
ays for a somewhat- less obstructed view out of the canopy?
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A slider, Airworthiness Inspection scheduled for next week
http://www.newtech.com/n14se/n14se.jpg
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
From: Steven Reynard <sreynard13(at)gmail.com>
If you are still flying with an obsolete landing gear design, you
might as well build the slider. Anything that improves visibility or
ease of flying may be too much of a change. Perhaps you should forgo
an electrical system as well. . . . ;)
On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 2:17 PM, steve wrote:
>
> If you still fly with a training wheel on the nose, then you might as well build
the tip- up. However...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Jun 03, 2009
> If you still fly with a training wheel on the nose, then you might as well
> build the tip-up.
Personally, that's the configuration that I always thought didn't look right.
Slider on both models looks good, and the tip-up canopy on the tailwheel models
looks good, but tip-up on the nosewheel models seems really strange.
Keep in mind that the -A models tend to want to tip on their tails if you have
too much weight aft during entry/egress, most notably if two people step up on
the steps at the same time. With a tip-up canopy, you'll tend to lean back getting
in to avoid the canopy, which may exacerbate the problem. The slider forces
you to be further forward on the wing, keeping you where you won't tip.
Mind you, this is just my impression of the configuration... I don't know if two
people getting into a tip-up nosewheel version would really cause the nosewheel
to raise. It just seems like you're asking for trouble.
-Rob
However...--- On Wed, 6/3/09, Steven Eberhart
> wrote:
> From: Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs
> SliderTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comDate: Wednesday, June 3, 2009, 9:00 AM
> Heyden Thomas wrote:
>
>
> #yiv1231070661 .hmmessage P
> {
> margin:0px;padding:0px;}
> #yiv1231070661 {
> font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>
> Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding canopy
> on the RV-7?Just a moment ............ back now from revisiting the issue;
> yup, still a personal preference item with no chance of changing anyone's
> opinion. IMHO the question is: do you want to give up comfort while taxiing
> on hot days for a somewhat less obstructed view out of the canopy? Steve
> EberhartRV-7A slider, Airworthiness Inspection scheduled for next
> weekhttp://www.newtech.com/n14se/n14se.jpg
>
> et=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
---
Rob Prior
rv7 at b4 dot ca
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
From: Franz Fux <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com>
Yes it does, happened to me during final inspection, me standing on the wing
and the inspector trying to climb up, scratched the tail cone
Franz
On 03/06/09 3:11 PM, "Rob Prior" wrote:
>
>> If you still fly with a training wheel on the nose, then you might as well
>> build the tip-up.
>
> Personally, that's the configuration that I always thought didn't look right.
> Slider on both models looks good, and the tip-up canopy on the tailwheel
> models looks good, but tip-up on the nosewheel models seems really strange.
>
> Keep in mind that the -A models tend to want to tip on their tails if you have
> too much weight aft during entry/egress, most notably if two people step up on
> the steps at the same time. With a tip-up canopy, you'll tend to lean back
> getting in to avoid the canopy, which may exacerbate the problem. The slider
> forces you to be further forward on the wing, keeping you where you won't tip.
>
> Mind you, this is just my impression of the configuration... I don't know if
> two people getting into a tip-up nosewheel version would really cause the
> nosewheel to raise. It just seems like you're asking for trouble.
>
> -Rob
>
>
> However...--- On Wed, 6/3/09, Steven Eberhart
>> wrote:
>> From: Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs
>> SliderTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comDate: Wednesday, June 3, 2009, 9:00 AM
>> Heyden Thomas wrote:
>>
>>
>> #yiv1231070661 .hmmessage P
>> {
>> margin:0px;padding:0px;}
>> #yiv1231070661 {
>> font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>>
>> Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding canopy
>> on the RV-7?Just a moment ............ back now from revisiting the issue;
>> yup, still a personal preference item with no chance of changing anyone's
>> opinion. IMHO the question is: do you want to give up comfort while taxiing
>> on hot days for a somewhat less obstructed view out of the canopy? Steve
>> EberhartRV-7A slider, Airworthiness Inspection scheduled for next
>> weekhttp://www.newtech.com/n14se/n14se.jpg
>>
>> et=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
>> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
>> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---
> Rob Prior
> rv7 at b4 dot ca
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Jun 03, 2009
Play
slideshow<http://g.msn.com/5meen_us/171?path=/photomail/{c294a79c-df87-
4649-9c81-ba056beee210}&image=F3D1452E23ECF708!206&imagehi=F3D1452E23
ECF708!204&CID=-877844387886991608> Save all photos Want to save
all these photos at once? Learn how
<http://help.live.com/help.aspx?mkt=en-us&project=WL_Mailv2&querytype
=keyword&query=segami_lla_evas>
Online pictures are available for 30 days
he's a pic of a rv6a I did in 2006, any moisture is channeled to the
sides.
steve
iflyrv10.com<http://isngqq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pFxesfESiU3IZ0XZYK95CK
DAeR-sfgWrVIpYqz3IXAWALuN9I9O4cLUr2BUboG8uKqxITA6JN8VrejBCsKt_PNw/Picture
%20122.jpg?download>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From:
owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garry
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider
I've heard of problems with tilt-ups getting water inside the avionics.
I have a 7A with a slider and when I wash the plane or it rains hard, I
get "some" small amount of water dripping from the junction of the
slider and the windscreen. Does anyone have a cleaver way of preventing
these leaks?
Garry Stout
Tampa, FL
Get Windows Live Mail to create your own photo e-mails
<http://g.msn.com/5meen_us/175>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Rod End Bearing Jam Nut - TORQUE
For you Experts:
Installed the Rod End Bearings in the Rudder and Elevators today. -My loc
al A&P said to tighten the Jam Nut by "Hand Tightening" the Jam Nut as far
as it will go, then turn the nut between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more.
I "hand tightened" the Jam Nut (as the A&P said), but could not get it to t
ighten more than an additional 1/8 turn. -Because the Jam Nut is recessed
, it is impossible to get a wrench squarely on it = any further turning o
f the Nut stars to round the corners of the Nut. -Is this 1/8 turn adequa
te for the Jam Nut tightness, if not how do you turn the Nut (since it is r
ecessed) ??
What Torque Value is required for the Jam Nut, assuming a Torque Wrench can
get into the recessed area - do not see how this can be done.
ANOTHER QUESTION --Have a "click type" torque wrench that starts at 20 in
-lbs. -From previous posts, the FIRST 1/6 and the LAST 1/6 of the Wrench
Scale are inaccurate. -So how do you measure 'LOW VALUES" like for AN3 bo
lts that require 20 - -25 in/lbs plus Friction Torque of approx 5 in/lbs
= 25 to 30 in/lbs TOTAL TORQUE ???-
Appreciate your help,
Garey Wittich - -Santa Monica, CA - -
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Th=E9o_Celis?= <theo.celis(at)skynet.be>
Subject: Re: Tilt vs Slider
Date: Jun 04, 2009
Happened to us with our RV-7A...
Cracked tail fairing.
Tho.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Franz Fux" <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 3:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs Slider
>
> Yes it does, happened to me during final inspection, me standing on the
> wing
> and the inspector trying to climb up, scratched the tail cone
> Franz
>
>
> On 03/06/09 3:11 PM, "Rob Prior" wrote:
>
>>
>>> If you still fly with a training wheel on the nose, then you might as
>>> well
>>> build the tip-up.
>>
>> Personally, that's the configuration that I always thought didn't look
>> right.
>> Slider on both models looks good, and the tip-up canopy on the tailwheel
>> models looks good, but tip-up on the nosewheel models seems really
>> strange.
>>
>> Keep in mind that the -A models tend to want to tip on their tails if you
>> have
>> too much weight aft during entry/egress, most notably if two people step
>> up on
>> the steps at the same time. With a tip-up canopy, you'll tend to lean
>> back
>> getting in to avoid the canopy, which may exacerbate the problem. The
>> slider
>> forces you to be further forward on the wing, keeping you where you won't
>> tip.
>>
>> Mind you, this is just my impression of the configuration... I don't know
>> if
>> two people getting into a tip-up nosewheel version would really cause the
>> nosewheel to raise. It just seems like you're asking for trouble.
>>
>> -Rob
>>
>>
>> However...--- On Wed, 6/3/09, Steven Eberhart
>>> wrote:
>>> From: Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>Subject: Re: RV7-List: Tilt vs
>>> SliderTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comDate: Wednesday, June 3, 2009, 9:00 AM
>>> Heyden Thomas wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> #yiv1231070661 .hmmessage P
>>> {
>>> margin:0px;padding:0px;}
>>> #yiv1231070661 {
>>> font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>>>
>>> Could someone please revisit the issues of selecting a tilt vs sliding
>>> canopy
>>> on the RV-7?Just a moment ............ back now from revisiting the
>>> issue;
>>> yup, still a personal preference item with no chance of changing
>>> anyone's
>>> opinion. IMHO the question is: do you want to give up comfort while
>>> taxiing
>>> on hot days for a somewhat less obstructed view out of the canopy?
>>> Steve
>>> EberhartRV-7A slider, Airworthiness Inspection scheduled for next
>>> weekhttp://www.newtech.com/n14se/n14se.jpg
>>>
>>> et=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
>>> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
>>> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>> Rob Prior
>> rv7 at b4 dot ca
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
18:00:00
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2009
Subject: Re: Rod End Bearing Jam Nut - TORQUE
From: Larry Helming <lrhelming(at)gmail.com>
Fjor experimental aircraft, you might just Put a drop of locktite on it.
Indiana Larry
On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 10:29 PM, Garey Wittich
wrote:
> For you Experts:
> Installed the Rod End Bearings in the Rudder and Elevators today. My local
> A&P said to tighten the Jam Nut by "Hand Tightening" the Jam Nut as far as
> it will go, then turn the nut between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more.
>
> I "hand tightened" the Jam Nut (as the A&P said), but could not get it to
> tighten more than an additional 1/8 turn. Because the Jam Nut is recessed,
> it is impossible to get a wrench squarely on it = any further turning of the
> Nut stars to round the corners of the Nut. Is this 1/8 turn adequate for
> the Jam Nut tightness, if not how do you turn the Nut (since it is recessed)
> ??
>
> What Torque Value is required for the Jam Nut, assuming a Torque Wrench can
> get into the recessed area - do not see how this can be done.
>
> ANOTHER QUESTION -
> Have a "click type" torque wrench that starts at 20 in-lbs. From previous
> posts, the FIRST 1/6 and the LAST 1/6 of the Wrench Scale are inaccurate.
> So how do you measure 'LOW VALUES" like for AN3 bolts that require 20 - 25
> in/lbs plus Friction Torque of approx 5 in/lbs = 25 to 30 in/lbs TOTAL
> TORQUE ???
>
> Appreciate your help,
>
> Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
In God I Trust.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Frazier" <fraziernv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: -List: Rod End Bearing Jam Nut - TORQUE
Date: Jun 04, 2009
On the lock nuts, I just tightened them as well as I could. Impossible to
get a torque wrench in there. Be sure to use torque seal or nail polish for
future inspection purposes.
On calibrating click type torque wrenches. What I do before every critical
torque is to "calibrate" my click type wrench against a beam type wrench.
Install an appropriate socket for a square nut on either wrench and observe
where the click type wrench clicks on the beam type wrench. Then you can
use the click type wrench for multiple torques with confidence. I
understand this procedure (or one like it) was mandatory in the military
when click type wrenches first became available...
(snip)
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Rod End Bearing Jam Nut - TORQUE
For you Experts:
Installed the Rod End Bearings in the Rudder and Elevators today. -My loc
al A&P said to tighten the Jam Nut by "Hand Tightening" the Jam Nut as far
as it will go, then turn the nut between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more.
(snip
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque
For you Experts:
Installed the Rod End Bearings in the Rudder and Elevator today. -My loca
l A & P said to tighten the Jam Nut by "Hand Tightening" the Jam Nut as far
as it will go, then turn the nut between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more.
I "hand tightened" the Jam Nut (as the A & P said), but could not get it to
tighten more than an additional 1/8 turn, -Because the Jam Nut is recess
ed (in the Spar channel), it is impossible to get a wrench "squarely" on it
= any further tightening of the Nut starts to round the corners of the N
ut. -Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut tightness, if NOT how do y
ou turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ????
What Torque Value is required for the Jam Nut, assuming a Torque Wrench can
get into the recessed area - do not see how this can be done.
ANOTHER QUESTION -Have a "Click Type" torque wrench that starts at 20 in-lb
s. -From previous posts, the FIRST 1/6 and the LAST 1/6 of the Wrench's s
cale are inaccurate. -So how do you measure -"LOW VALUES" -for an AN3
Nut that requires 20 - 25 in/lbs plus Friction Torque of approx 5 in/lbs
= 25 to 30 on/lbs TOTAL torque ??
Appreciate your help,
Garey - Santa Monica, CA=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality...
Dear Listers,
I took delivery of an RV-8 QB finish kit around September 2008. Last weekend I
started tackling the installation of the wheel pants. The first thing I noticed
on inspection of the wheel pants was how horrible the quality was. The front
piece didn't fit the back piece and the flange shoulder on the back pieces
were not straight. Getting a even an "okay" fit was nearly impossible. The
other issue was the quality of the fiberglass itself. On the rear part of the
back piece, the epoxy resin was completely spider-cracked on both sides and
on both pants. It was nothing a few more coats of resin and a bunch of sanding
couldn't fix, but who wants to do that? Needless to say, I was fairly demoralized
by the fact that there was really no way I was going to be able to make
them really fit together "perfect".
But, I plowed ahead anyway and started trying to mount them to the Grove Airfoiled
gear. I had a lot of trouble getting them to fit correctly onto the landing
gear. The main issue seemed to be that they are too small at the bottom and
don't fit over the brake caliper without touching. I kept thinking that I must
just not have them in the correct position, so I kept hogging out a little
more glass here and there with the Dremel tool until basically the holes were
all too big (for the gear leg and for the wheel). I finally found a couple of
builder web sites where others have had the same issue with the brake caliper
interference and they added a 2.5" "blister" to pooch out over the area that
rubs. But by this time it was too late for that first set of pants.
But here's the interesting part. Since I had basically destroyed both of the original
pants trying to get them to fit, I decided to just order up a replacement
set, take a sedative, and start over again on the whole thing. The new wheel
pants arrived from Van's yesterday. The difference in quality between these
replacement units and the ones from last year is incredible! The seams are
nearly perfect on the replacements and only required a bit of sanding on the
front part to get a *perfect*, and I mean *perfect* fit between the front and
back halves. The consistency of the fiberglass layups is 100% better on the new
units, and that seam at the top was already so flat, I didn't even have to
sand it down. There are no spider cracks in the glass anywhere. I haven't actually
weighed them, but replacements feel like they might be somewhat lighter
as well.
Obviously Van's switched fiberglass vendors at some point in the last 10 months
and the switch was well worth it. I've attached a couple of photos of the Circa
September 2008 and Circa June 2009 sets I received. The only similarity is
in the overall shape.
FYI
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2009
From: gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Filler for unwanted Rivet Holes
Greetings:
What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
Thanks,---Garey Wittich- Santa Monica, CA
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2009
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Filler for unwanted Rivet Holes
A dab of West Coast 410 mixed with epoxy will do the trick.
-d-
--- On Mon, 6/8/09, gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> From: gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV7-List: Filler for unwanted Rivet Holes
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, June 8, 2009, 2:16 PM
> Greetings:
>
> What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of
> unwanted holes in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed
> to plug the hole ????
>
> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>
> Thanks,Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2009
Subject: Re: Filler for unwanted Rivet Holes
From: Larry Helming <lrhelming(at)gmail.com>
I'd say it depends on the paint you plan to use. Superfil works great for
3-part epoxy based paint like PPG Concept. Just check to be sure whatever
filler you use is compatible with the paint you use. Indiana Larry, RV7
300+ hours
On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 2:16 PM, wrote:
> Greetings:
>
> What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
> in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
>
> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>
> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
In God I Trust.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2009
Subject: Re: Filler for unwanted Rivet Holes
From: Larry Helming <lrhelming(at)gmail.com>
Typo error == Make that 2-part epoxy paint ( not 3-part ) Indiana Larry
On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 6:31 AM, Larry Helming wrote:
> I'd say it depends on the paint you plan to use. Superfil works great for
> 3-part epoxy based paint like PPG Concept. Just check to be sure whatever
> filler you use is compatible with the paint you use. Indiana Larry, RV7
> 300+ hours
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 2:16 PM, wrote:
>
>> Greetings:
>>
>> What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
>> in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
>>
>> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>>
>> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> In God I Trust.
>
--
In God I Trust.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn
REF: -Regarding the 1/4 inch bolt holes in the Elevator Control Horns, ab
out which the Left & Right Elevator Horns rotate on the center Hinge Bearin
g fastened to the center of the Horiz Stabilizer.
After drilling these 1/4 inch diameter holes (for the AN4 Bolt), these hole
s are too close to the weld fillet that welds the torque tube to the perpen
dicular part of the Horn. -The weld fillets on my L & R Horns go ALL the
way around the Tube. Thus the AN4 Bolt HEAD and corresponding Nut HEAD will
come in contact with the "weld fillet" BEFORE they are tightened. --
- After reading the "Archieves" for possible solutions and some of my own
thoughts it seems the options are (looking for the BEST Option):
1) Die Grind the weld fillet in the area where the Bolt and Nut heads will
be, then spot prime with Zinc Chromate.
2) -Grind the weld fillet where the Nut Head will be and then use a reduc
ed size Nut (MS21042-4) that has a smaller diameter than the -one supplie
d by Vans.
3) -Use regular AN960 Washers and "contour them" to fit over the weld fil
let so Bolt Head and Nut fit snug against them. -(Will need a longer Bolt
than supplied by Vans.)
4) -Make a "thick" washer out of stainless steel (i.e. 1/8" thick) and "c
ontour it" to fit over the weld fillets; thus the Bolt and Nut heads have a
flat surface to tighten against. -Again a longer Bolt will be required.
-<----- Seems the BEST approach to me. - Any subtle issues involved ???
How did YOU handle this situation ???????
Appreciate your comments !!!
Thanks, - Garey Wittich - Santa Monica, CA=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2009
From: "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn
Garey,
I think I would go with either 3 or 4 although I confess that I don't
think I had this issue. Not to worry though, the rumor that Van's has
actually produced two identical kits has never been proven.....
Regards,
Joe
N813MJ
60+hrs
Garey Wittich wrote:
> REF: Regarding the 1/4 inch bolt holes in the Elevator Control Horns,
> about which the Left & Right Elevator Horns rotate on the center Hinge
> Bearing fastened to the center of the Horiz Stabilizer.
>
> After drilling these 1/4 inch diameter holes (for the AN4 Bolt), these
> holes are too close to the weld fillet that welds the torque tube to
> the perpendicular part of the Horn. The weld fillets on my L & R
> Horns go ALL the way around the Tube. Thus the AN4 Bolt HEAD and
> corresponding Nut HEAD will come in contact with the "weld fillet"
> BEFORE they are tightened.
>
> After reading the "Archieves" for possible solutions and some of my
> own thoughts it seems the options are (looking for the BEST Option):
>
> 1) Die Grind the weld fillet in the area where the Bolt and Nut heads
> will be, then spot prime with Zinc Chromate.
>
> 2) Grind the weld fillet where the Nut Head will be and then use a
> reduced size Nut (MS21042-4) that has a smaller diameter than the one
> supplied by Vans.
>
> 3) Use regular AN960 Washers and "contour them" to fit over the weld
> fillet so Bolt Head and Nut fit snug against them. (Will need a
> longer Bolt than supplied by Vans.)
>
> 4) Make a "thick" washer out of stainless steel (i.e. 1/8" thick) and
> "contour it" to fit over the weld fillets; thus the Bolt and Nut heads
> have a flat surface to tighten against. Again a longer Bolt will be
> required. <----- Seems the BEST approach to me. Any subtle issues
> involved ???
>
> How did YOU handle this situation ???????
>
> Appreciate your comments !!!
>
> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Measure RUDDER Deflection (Swing) Angle
Greetings:
Have my VS mounted to the work bench along with the Rudder attached. -Try
ing to verify the 35 degree travel on the Rudder to the Left and Right of N
eutral. -Seen no Archieves on how to measure the angle other than laying
the VS and Rudder on the work bench and using "Smart Level" to measure the
deflection in the Up & Down positions. -Must be "super simple" to measure
it, but for some reason the method is not evident to me (now).
Appreciate your help, - -Garey Wittich - Santa Monica, CA
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Greg Vouga <gmvouga(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Measure RUDDER Deflection (Swing) Angle
Date: Jun 22, 2009
I used a protractor and straight edge to mark the angle on a piece of cardb
oard. Then I cut the carboard so I had a large piece with the correct angl
e that I could hold up to the rudder and VS when it was mounted on the plan
e. Dirt simple=2C but it worked.
Greg
RV-7A
Raleigh=2C NC (5W5)
Date: Sun=2C 21 Jun 2009 20:51:05 -0700
From: gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV7-List: Measure RUDDER Deflection (Swing) Angle
Greetings:
Have my VS mounted to the work bench along with the Rudder attached. Tryin
g to verify the 35 degree travel on the Rudder to the Left and Right of Neu
tral. Seen no Archieves on how to measure the angle other than laying the
VS and Rudder on the work bench and using "Smart Level" to measure the defl
ection in the Up & Down positions. Must be "super simple" to measure it=2C
but for some reason the method is not evident to me (now).
Appreciate your help=2C Garey Wittich Santa Monica=2C CA
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tuto
rial_Storage_062009
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2009
From: Dennis OConnor <ad4hk2004(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/21/09
Several quick-n-dirty methods pop to mind...
I bought a gravity protractor/level (from Sears, I think) for a few bucks a
nd used the lay it down method...
Another would be to take a small stick, cut in two pieces, drill a hole at
one end of each piece and put a bolt thru it, making a hinged stick... use
that hinge to fit it into the valley of the deflected rudder and then use a
protractor to measure the included angle (allowing for the taper of the ru
dder of course)- This will work upright or flat...- Lacking a protracto
r lay the stick on graph paper and calculate the angle by drawing a triangl
e and doing the math...
Or, stand the stab/rudder upright, use your ruler to measure the the deflec
tion from centerline and use that number to lay out a triangle on paper and
calculate the angle...- Remember to measure the baseline of the triangle
from the center of the hinge bolts, not from the leading edge of the rudde
r...
Then of course, my mind kicks into gear and I start envisioning using a las
er range finder and little mirrors stuck to the rudder and to the walls to
measure the change in distance from the tip of the rudder to the wall for t
he rudder centered and deflected......
Or how about a potentiometer slaved to the hinge line of the rudder - Wheat
stone Bridge - and measuring the change in resistance as the rudder deflect
s...
Or a Wein Bridge oscillator with the potentiometer changing the frequency o
f the oscillator as the rudder swings...- With a bit of practice on the r
udder pedals you could even play music...
Ah well, the cute little nurse tells me it is time for my pills and a nap w
hile wearing my special jacket...
denny / k8do
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hutt" <steve(at)huttmail.com>
Subject: Re: Measure RUDDER Deflection (Swing) Angle
Date: Jun 22, 2009
Garey,
The simple thing to do is to do your sums to find the required angle (with
the rudder at max deflection) between the VS skin and the rudder skin.
Then make up a template out of heavy cardboard shaped to this angle. Hold
the template against the VS/rudder and check the deflection matches.
You need to do this with the VS/rudder mounted on the fuselage as you need
to check that the rudder stops are in the correct position and that
the rudder pedals/cables setup does not introduce any restriction to the
range of movement.
Once you're sure the cardboard template is correct, make a copy out of
something tougher like plywood that will last.
You'll need to check the rudder range of movement as part of your ongoing
maintenance routine.
Regards,
Steve Hutt
RV-7
UK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Frazier" <fraziernv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/21/09
Date: Jun 22, 2009
You really should just wait until you mount the tail on the fuselage to
measure and set the max deflection angles. They are limited by small rudder
stops attached to the lower fuselage. My advice is to make them oversized
for the first try and then file a little off at a time to get the proper max
deflection. I made several sets until I got it right, and then I still had
the potential for interference between the rudder cables and the rudder
stops. I missed a dimension on the plans. I'm going to install an
"internal rudder stop" sold by a reader on Van's Airforce. You might look
at this neat mod before you spent too much time building the stops per the
plans...
Terry
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV7-List: Measure RUDDER Deflection (Swing) Angle
Greetings:
Have my VS mounted to the work bench along with the Rudder attached. -Try
ing to verify the 35 degree travel on the Rudder to the Left and Right of N
eutral. -Seen no Archieves on how to measure the angle other than laying
the VS and Rudder on the work bench and using "Smart Level" to measure the
deflection in the Up & Down positions. -Must be "super simple" to measure
it, but for some reason the method is not evident to me (now).
Appreciate your help, - -Garey Wittich - Santa Monica, CA
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: Measure RUDDER Deflection (Swing) Angle
Date: Jun 23, 2009
You can hang a couple of plumb bobs from the rudder and trace the
movement on the floor. Hang one from the trailing edge and the other
from the bottom hinge.
Phil Birkelbach
Houston RV7 - 727WB
phil(at)petrasoft.net
http://www.myrv7.com/
On Jun 21, 2009, at 10:51 PM, Garey Wittich wrote:
> Greetings:
>
> Have my VS mounted to the work bench along with the Rudder
> attached. Trying to verify the 35 degree travel on the Rudder to
> the Left and Right of Neutral. Seen no Archieves on how to measure
> the angle other than laying the VS and Rudder on the work bench and
> using "Smart Level" to measure the deflection in the Up & Down
> positions. Must be "super simple" to measure it, but for some
> reason the method is not evident to me (now).
>
> Appreciate your help, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Trial Wing Mounting...
Dear Listers,
I'm planning on trial mounting the wings on the RV-8 this weekend. I want to get
the flaps and ailerons rigged as well as get the rear spar drilled. Once that's
done, however, I want to take the wings back off for storage.
How hard is this going to be? Will I ever be able to get the bolts back out again
after I get them in?
I've heard of people using hardware store bolts for trial fitting. Is this a good
idea?
What's the minimum number of bolts I should put in to assure the wings will stay
on unsupported and rigid enough to set the incidence?
Realistically, how hard (and how much damage) will taking the bolts back out be?
Thanks for any insight you can lend.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Finishing Up Right Wing Tip, Left Tip Done
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2009
From: Buschmann <buschfolk(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Trial Wing Mounting...
Yes, using hardware bolts works just fine. That's what I did on my RV-7A. I ground
the ends of the bolts to give them a taper, greased them, then slid them
in when the holes were lined up. They went in easy, held the wings in the right
position to do the work needed, then with a little lift on the tips, were
easy to drive out. You DO NOT want to use your close tolerance bolts and expect
to ever get them out again.
Jack Buschmann
RV-7A, N397V
almost ready for the DAR!
don't archive
-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Sent: Jul 1, 2009 6:12 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV7-List: Trial Wing Mounting...
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I'm planning on trial mounting the wings on the RV-8 this weekend. I want to
get the flaps and ailerons rigged as well as get the rear spar drilled. Once
that's done, however, I want to take the wings back off for storage.
>
>How hard is this going to be? Will I ever be able to get the bolts back out again
after I get them in?
>
>I've heard of people using hardware store bolts for trial fitting. Is this a
good idea?
>
>What's the minimum number of bolts I should put in to assure the wings will stay
on unsupported and rigid enough to set the incidence?
>
>Realistically, how hard (and how much damage) will taking the bolts back out be?
>
>Thanks for any insight you can lend.
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>Finishing Up Right Wing Tip, Left Tip Done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Trial Wing Mounting...
Date: Jul 01, 2009
Dear Matt,
I have a friend who is a 4 time RV builder so far. I'm just working on
number one right now. His approach is to mount the wings when they are
ready to be mounted in final construction. Just one time.
I know Van's construction manual has them mounted and removed, but that is a
lot of work that will only have to be repeated
when you finally put all this together. Obviously you have to do what is
comfortable for you. I will take my buddy's approach
which has served him well on four aircraft so far. That's the beauty of
doing it yourself.
Happy building,
John Brunke
RV7 tip up
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Schoen <flybill2usa(at)msn.com>
Subject: Trial Wing Mounting...
Date: Jul 02, 2009
Matt
That is my plan as well. I will have done everything I can to the fuselage
prior to mounting the wings and gear. They will get in the way of the vast
amount of work to be done in and around the cockpit. I am only a first time
RV-7 builder so maybe there is something I don't know that Vans knows=2C b
ut so far see no really good reason to have to put them on=2C then take the
m off and put them on again later. Too much extra work for now real gain i
n the construction process that I can see. A good friend of mine used this
method on his RV-6 and it worked great. He did everything at home in his ga
rage so didn't need the wide space until he moved the project to a hangar
=2C then put the wings on one time only.
Bill Schoen
South Fork Co.
RV-7 N727BN res
> From: jdoody727(at)comcast.net
> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Trial Wing Mounting...
> Date: Wed=2C 1 Jul 2009 20:33:25 -0600
>
>
> Dear Matt=2C
>
> I have a friend who is a 4 time RV builder so far. I'm just working on
> number one right now. His approach is to mount the wings when they are
> ready to be mounted in final construction. Just one time.
>
> I know Van's construction manual has them mounted and removed=2C but that
is a
> lot of work that will only have to be repeated
> when you finally put all this together. Obviously you have to do what is
> comfortable for you. I will take my buddy's approach
> which has served him well on four aircraft so far. That's the beauty of
> doing it yourself.
>
>
> Happy building=2C
>
> John Brunke
> RV7 tip up
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Any Recommendations for Builders Assistance ???
Greetings:Working by myself, the RV-8A QB Project is going too "slooowly".
-Local EAA Chapter here in Santa Monica, CA has no RV Builders or any at
the airport. -Looking for some assistance by an experienced RV Builder or
Builders Assistance Center here in Southern California to complete Project
- where we can work together ( here or at their location) thus speeding th
e Project along. -Want to work on the Project about 40 hours per week.
-Willing to pay a reasonable fee for the help. I have completed the Emhen
nage - now ready to start the Wings.-
Any helpful suggestions ??
Thanks, - Garey Wittich -Santa Monica, CA - (310) 392-1682=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2009
Subject: Re: Any Recommendations for Builders Assistance ???
From: JOHN STIEGELMEYER <jstiegel(at)dishmail.net>
If you have QB wings there isn't much to do. Fabricate and install the bell
cranks - Fabricate the push/pull tubes, install landing/taxi lights, install
nav/strobes in wing tips and install wing tips. Don't forget the wiring for
these items. And the pitot tube and wiring if heated. Flob tube for fuel
if needed. Can't think of anything else. Read the manual thru to make sure
you understand the whole process. I built an RV-7A QB - not much guidence
for this so read read read.
Regards,
John
On 7/2/09, Garey Wittich wrote:
>
> Greetings: Working by myself, the RV-8A QB Project is going too
> "slooowly". Local EAA Chapter here in Santa Monica, CA has no RV Builders
> or any at the airport. Looking for some assistance by an experienced RV
> Builder or Builders Assistance Center here in Southern California to
> complete Project - where we can work together ( here or at their location)
> thus speeding the Project along. Want to work on the Project about 40 hours
> per week. Willing to pay a reasonable fee for the help. I have completed
> the Emhennage - now ready to start the Wings.
>
>
> Any helpful suggestions ??
>
>
> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ilan perry" <i.perry(at)lipogen.co.il>
Subject: ?windows-1255?Q?=FA=F9=E5=E1=E4:_RV7-List:_Any_Recommendations_for_B?=
=?windows-1255?Q?uilders_Assistance_=3F=3F=3F?
Date: Jul 03, 2009
You can find a lot of assistance in Chino air field CA.
Regards Perry Ilan.
_____
=EE=E0=FA: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] =E1=F9=ED JOHN STIEGELMEYER
=F0=F9=EC=E7: Friday, July 03, 2009 1:01 AM
=E0=EC: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
=F0=E5=F9=E0: Re: RV7-List: Any Recommendations for Builders Assistance
???
If you have QB wings there isn't much to do. Fabricate and install the
bell
cranks - Fabricate the push/pull tubes, install landing/taxi lights,
install
nav/strobes in wing tips and install wing tips. Don't forget the wiring
for
these items. And the pitot tube and wiring if heated. Flob tube for
fuel
if needed. Can't think of anything else. Read the manual thru to make
sure
you understand the whole process. I built an RV-7A QB - not much
guidence
for this so read read read.
Regards,
John
.
On 7/2/09, Garey Wittich wrote:
Greetings:
Working by myself, the RV-8A QB Project is going too "slooowly". Local
EAA
Chapter here in Santa Monica, CA has no RV Builders or any at the
airport.
Looking for some assistance by an experienced RV Builder or Builders
Assistance Center here in Southern California to complete Project -
where we
can work together ( here or at their location) thus speeding the Project
along. Want to work on the Project about 40 hours per week. Willing to
pay
a reasonable fee for the help. I have completed the Emhennage - now
ready to
start the Wings.
Any helpful suggestions ??
Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/"
target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Any Recommendations for Builders Assistance ???
From: Franz Fux <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com>
Hi Garey,
If you are thinking that your project is going to slowly after building the
empenage, and you even have a quick built, my advise to you would be to
forget about building all together, sell the kit and buy something that fly
s
Franz
On 02/07/09 3:00 PM, "JOHN STIEGELMEYER" wrote:
> If you have QB wings there isn't much to do.- Fabricate and install the b
ell
> cranks - Fabricate the push/pull tubes, install landing/taxi lights, inst
all
> nav/strobes in wing tips and install wing tips.- Don't forget the wiring
for
> these items.- And the pitot tube and wiring if heated.- Flob tube for fue
l if
> needed.- Can't think of anything else.- Read the manual thru to make sure
you
> understand the whole process.- I built an RV-7A QB - not much guidence fo
r
> this so read read read.
> Regards,
> John
>
> -
> On 7/2/09, Garey Wittich wrote:
>> Greetings: Working by myself, the RV-8A QB Project is going too "slooowl
y".
>> -Local EAA Chapter here in Santa Monica, CA has no RV Builders or any at
the
>> airport. -Looking for some assistance by an experienced RV Builder or
>> Builders Assistance Center here in Southern California to complete Proje
ct -
>> where we can work together ( here or at their location) thus speeding th
e
>> Project along. -Want to work on the Project about 40 hours per week. -Wi
lling
>> to pay a reasonable fee for the help. I have completed the Emhennage - n
ow
>> ready to start the Wings.-
>>
>> -
>> Any helpful suggestions ??
>>
>> -
>> Thanks, - Garey Wittich -Santa Monica, CA - (310) 392-1682
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
>>
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/"
>> target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Moving Pictures
Date: Jul 03, 2009
For those wondering how to move an airplane from the house to the airport,..
Here is a visual. Note that the picture with the black trailer is how
someone looks who just realizes that a car hauler is NOT wide enough. If it
has fenders,.. It isn't wide enough ;-(
An hour later, we had moved up to a 30,000 lb dozer trailer (CDL required)
which turned out to be perfect! The ramp angle kept the tail high, 8ft +
wide bed was just right. With just the gear and the engine mounts tied
down, it moved around some which was good but didn't move forward or back.
It takes a pretty good assortment of heavy tie downs but it really wasn't as
much of a problem as I thought it would be. 45 mph on the freeway was easy,
the problem was with the side roads which were pretty rough with a heavy
trailer and no load. A 20 mile trip in about 40 minutes. Took 5 minutes to
set the ramps and back it off.
Good Bogy-Bar is a requirement!
If's funny, I was a nervous Nellie but my buddy's who did the majority of
the loading were just fearless. As Allen said, " who cares, it's not my
airplane". (arms raised ;-) Apparently that takes all the stress off :-)
Bill S
7a getting closer to the runway
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 04, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Trial Wing Mounting...
At 05:12 PM 7/1/2009 Wednesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I'm planning on trial mounting the wings on the RV-8 this weekend. I want to
get the flaps and ailerons rigged as well as get the rear spar drilled. Once
that's done, however, I want to take the wings back off for storage.
>
>How hard is this going to be? Will I ever be able to get the bolts back out again
after I get them in?
>
>I've heard of people using hardware store bolts for trial fitting. Is this a
good idea?
>
>What's the minimum number of bolts I should put in to assure the wings will stay
on unsupported and rigid enough to set the incidence?
>
>Realistically, how hard (and how much damage) will taking the bolts back out be?
>
>Thanks for any insight you can lend.
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>Finishing Up Right Wing Tip, Left Tip Done
I want to thank everyone for the help on mounting the wings. The mounting went
without a hitch today. The hardware store bolts just slipped right in with no
problem. Highly recommend. I would say that they will be very useful in the
initial alignment prior to inserting the close-tolerance bolts too.
Once the wings were on, I just had to put all the other stuff on the plane to get
an idea of what it looked like. Awesome! I thought I'd share a couple of
pictures... Yahoo!
Thanks again!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Control Rigging And Wing Fairings...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Owens" <springcanyon(at)methow.com>
Subject: Re: Trial Wing Mounting...
Date: Jul 04, 2009
Matt,
Nice job - it's beginning to look like a real airplane. I have to admire a
guy that has a choice of engines setting in his shop.:)
Don Owens
RV-7 Being baffled!
At 05:12 PM 7/1/2009 Wednesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I'm planning on trial mounting the wings on the RV-8 this weekend. I want
to get the flaps and ailerons rigged as well as get the rear spar drilled.
Once that's done, however, I want to take the wings back off for storage.
>
>How hard is this going to be? Will I ever be able to get the bolts back
out again after I get them in?
>
>I've heard of people using hardware store bolts for trial fitting. Is this
a good idea?
>
>What's the minimum number of bolts I should put in to assure the wings will
stay on unsupported and rigid enough to set the incidence?
>
>Realistically, how hard (and how much damage) will taking the bolts back
out be?
>
>Thanks for any insight you can lend.
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>Finishing Up Right Wing Tip, Left Tip Done
I want to thank everyone for the help on mounting the wings. The mounting
went without a hitch today. The hardware store bolts just slipped right in
with no problem. Highly recommend. I would say that they will be very
useful in the initial alignment prior to inserting the close-tolerance bolts
too.
Once the wings were on, I just had to put all the other stuff on the plane
to get an idea of what it looked like. Awesome! I thought I'd share a
couple of pictures... Yahoo!
Thanks again!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Control Rigging And Wing Fairings...
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2009
From: "Joseph F. Giallo, II" <jgiallo(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Trial Wing Mounting...
Matt,
I would recommend the hardware store bolt approach - the precision bolts
will be difficult to remove (impossible in the case of some of them on a
7A due to landing gear weldment). I think I used two per side of the
large variety - one top and one bottom. I don't have experience with the
8 install but just make sure you'll be able to get a punch on the back
end of the bolt to drive it back out - if access is better on one side
than the other I would orient the bolt to take advantage of this fact -
orientation doesn't matter until they go on for the last time....hope
this helps.
Regards,
Joe
N813MJ RV7A
Matt Dralle wrote:
>At 05:12 PM 7/1/2009 Wednesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>I'm planning on trial mounting the wings on the RV-8 this weekend. I want to
get the flaps and ailerons rigged as well as get the rear spar drilled. Once
that's done, however, I want to take the wings back off for storage.
>>
>>How hard is this going to be? Will I ever be able to get the bolts back out
again after I get them in?
>>
>>I've heard of people using hardware store bolts for trial fitting. Is this a
good idea?
>>
>>What's the minimum number of bolts I should put in to assure the wings will stay
on unsupported and rigid enough to set the incidence?
>>
>>Realistically, how hard (and how much damage) will taking the bolts back out
be?
>>
>>Thanks for any insight you can lend.
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>Finishing Up Right Wing Tip, Left Tip Done
>>
>>
>
>
>I want to thank everyone for the help on mounting the wings. The mounting went
without a hitch today. The hardware store bolts just slipped right in with
no problem. Highly recommend. I would say that they will be very useful in the
initial alignment prior to inserting the close-tolerance bolts too.
>
>Once the wings were on, I just had to put all the other stuff on the plane to
get an idea of what it looked like. Awesome! I thought I'd share a couple of
pictures... Yahoo!
>
>Thanks again!
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>Control Rigging And Wing Fairings...
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Moving Pictures
Date: Jul 06, 2009
i used a wide snowmobile trailer - worked super
http://www.meyette.us/engineJul08.htm#jul25
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 4:04 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
For those wondering how to move an airplane from the house to the airport,..
Here is a visual. Note that the picture with the black trailer is how
someone looks who just realizes that a car hauler is NOT wide enough. If it
has fenders,.. It isn't wide enough ;-(
An hour later, we had moved up to a 30,000 lb dozer trailer (CDL required)
which turned out to be perfect! The ramp angle kept the tail high, 8ft +
wide bed was just right. With just the gear and the engine mounts tied
down, it moved around some which was good but didn't move forward or back.
It takes a pretty good assortment of heavy tie downs but it really wasn't as
much of a problem as I thought it would be. 45 mph on the freeway was easy,
the problem was with the side roads which were pretty rough with a heavy
trailer and no load. A 20 mile trip in about 40 minutes. Took 5 minutes to
set the ramps and back it off.
Good Bogy-Bar is a requirement!
<<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
If's funny, I was a nervous Nellie but my buddy's who did the majority of
the loading were just fearless. As Allen said, " who cares, it's not my
airplane". (arms raised ;-) Apparently that takes all the stress off :-)
Bill S
7a getting closer to the runway
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05:53:00
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "allen murray" <allenmurray(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Moving Pictures
Date: Jul 07, 2009
HI Brian.
I've been following your travails with the engine, and I see you've kept it.
What did you change that Eggenfellner supplied so you could keep the
powerplant? I am curious what you were able to do.
Good luck with your project.
Allen Murray
Cherry Hill NJ
(I fly a store-bought PA-30)
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 11:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
i used a wide snowmobile trailer - worked super
http://www.meyette.us/engineJul08.htm#jul25
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 4:04 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
For those wondering how to move an airplane from the house to the airport,..
Here is a visual. Note that the picture with the black trailer is how
someone looks who just realizes that a car hauler is NOT wide enough. If it
has fenders,.. It isn't wide enough ;-(
An hour later, we had moved up to a 30,000 lb dozer trailer (CDL required)
which turned out to be perfect! The ramp angle kept the tail high, 8ft +
wide bed was just right. With just the gear and the engine mounts tied
down, it moved around some which was good but didn't move forward or back.
It takes a pretty good assortment of heavy tie downs but it really wasn't as
much of a problem as I thought it would be. 45 mph on the freeway was easy,
the problem was with the side roads which were pretty rough with a heavy
trailer and no load. A 20 mile trip in about 40 minutes. Took 5 minutes to
set the ramps and back it off.
Good Bogy-Bar is a requirement!
<<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
If's funny, I was a nervous Nellie but my buddy's who did the majority of
the loading were just fearless. As Allen said, " who cares, it's not my
airplane". (arms raised ;-) Apparently that takes all the stress off :-)
Bill S
7a getting closer to the runway
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.375 / 05:53:00
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Moving Pictures
Date: Jul 07, 2009
Thanks, Allen.
yeah, i'm still plugging away on the engine & determined to make it work.
I changed much of what Eggenfellner supplied, including ECU, wiring harness,
radiators, throttle
I'm hoping the new PSRU will hold together; reports seem fairly promising so
far.
Many parts, like the intercooler, have had to be modified.
I stayed with the supercharger, altho I had to change out the pulley &
bracket so it isn't being so badly overspeeded. One other STi owner in AUS
has stuck with the SC, others have gone to a turbocharger. From what
people tell me, I'm not expecting great life from the SC, cuz i'm told it's
the wrong type for this application. If it fails, I'll probably to the
turbo route.
I'm sticking with the alternator, altho others have swapped that out for a
more powerful one.
I had it all running & fully secured once, but then I had to tear out the
ECU and the entire wiring harness when the only one flying crashed due to
the factory ECU deciding it was time for "limp home mode". Now, it's
running again with much larger rads and the SDS ECU. I'm very happy with
the ECU, as well as the great support on it from Ross Farnham.
I added a thermostat to the oil cooler lines.
Several other STi owners had problems with the poorly-machined intake
manifold causing intake leaks, but mine seemed OK when i pulled it off.
I also didn't go with the original Eggenfellner ideas on fuel pump mounting,
wiring (EXP BUS), battery management, fuel pump management; all of which the
factory eventually abandoned & went with how I did it.
For the time I have in the FWF alone, I coudl have built at least one RV,
and for the money I have in it, I could have bought a nice used flying
plane.
I hear the engine kicks butt once it's going and if not overheating, so I'm
looking forward to someday experiencing that.
brian
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of allen murray
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
HI Brian.
I've been following your travails with the engine, and I see you've kept it.
What did you change that Eggenfellner supplied so you could keep the
powerplant? I am curious what you were able to do.
Good luck with your project.
Allen Murray
Cherry Hill NJ
(I fly a store-bought PA-30)
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 11:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
i used a wide snowmobile trailer - worked super
http://www.meyette.us/engineJul08.htm#jul25
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 4:04 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
For those wondering how to move an airplane from the house to the airport,..
Here is a visual. Note that the picture with the black trailer is how
someone looks who just realizes that a car hauler is NOT wide enough. If it
has fenders,.. It isn't wide enough ;-(
An hour later, we had moved up to a 30,000 lb dozer trailer (CDL required)
which turned out to be perfect! The ramp angle kept the tail high, 8ft +
wide bed was just right. With just the gear and the engine mounts tied
down, it moved around some which was good but didn't move forward or back.
It takes a pretty good assortment of heavy tie downs but it really wasn't as
much of a problem as I thought it would be. 45 mph on the freeway was easy,
the problem was with the side roads which were pretty rough with a heavy
trailer and no load. A 20 mile trip in about 40 minutes. Took 5 minutes to
set the ramps and back it off.
Good Bogy-Bar is a requirement!
<<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
If's funny, I was a nervous Nellie but my buddy's who did the majority of
the loading were just fearless. As Allen said, " who cares, it's not my
airplane". (arms raised ;-) Apparently that takes all the stress off :-)
Bill S
7a getting closer to the runway
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.375 / 05:53:00
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 07/07/09 05:53:00
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "allen murray" <allenmurray(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Moving Pictures
Date: Jul 07, 2009
Thank you, Brian. Good luck! What a disaster you are working to overcome.
I went to SNF this Spring and Eggenfellner was there, exhibiting FWF kits.
Allen
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 2:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
Thanks, Allen.
yeah, i'm still plugging away on the engine & determined to make it work.
I changed much of what Eggenfellner supplied, including ECU, wiring harness,
radiators, throttle
I'm hoping the new PSRU will hold together; reports seem fairly promising so
far.
Many parts, like the intercooler, have had to be modified.
I stayed with the supercharger, altho I had to change out the pulley &
bracket so it isn't being so badly overspeeded. One other STi owner in AUS
has stuck with the SC, others have gone to a turbocharger. From what
people tell me, I'm not expecting great life from the SC, cuz i'm told it's
the wrong type for this application. If it fails, I'll probably to the
turbo route.
I'm sticking with the alternator, altho others have swapped that out for a
more powerful one.
I had it all running & fully secured once, but then I had to tear out the
ECU and the entire wiring harness when the only one flying crashed due to
the factory ECU deciding it was time for "limp home mode". Now, it's
running again with much larger rads and the SDS ECU. I'm very happy with
the ECU, as well as the great support on it from Ross Farnham.
I added a thermostat to the oil cooler lines.
Several other STi owners had problems with the poorly-machined intake
manifold causing intake leaks, but mine seemed OK when i pulled it off.
I also didn't go with the original Eggenfellner ideas on fuel pump mounting,
wiring (EXP BUS), battery management, fuel pump management; all of which the
factory eventually abandoned & went with how I did it.
For the time I have in the FWF alone, I coudl have built at least one RV,
and for the money I have in it, I could have bought a nice used flying
plane.
I hear the engine kicks butt once it's going and if not overheating, so I'm
looking forward to someday experiencing that.
brian
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of allen murray
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
HI Brian.
I've been following your travails with the engine, and I see you've kept it.
What did you change that Eggenfellner supplied so you could keep the
powerplant? I am curious what you were able to do.
Good luck with your project.
Allen Murray
Cherry Hill NJ
(I fly a store-bought PA-30)
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 11:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
i used a wide snowmobile trailer - worked super
http://www.meyette.us/engineJul08.htm#jul25
_____
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 4:04 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Moving Pictures
For those wondering how to move an airplane from the house to the airport,..
Here is a visual. Note that the picture with the black trailer is how
someone looks who just realizes that a car hauler is NOT wide enough. If it
has fenders,.. It isn't wide enough ;-(
An hour later, we had moved up to a 30,000 lb dozer trailer (CDL required)
which turned out to be perfect! The ramp angle kept the tail high, 8ft +
wide bed was just right. With just the gear and the engine mounts tied
down, it moved around some which was good but didn't move forward or back.
It takes a pretty good assortment of heavy tie downs but it really wasn't as
much of a problem as I thought it would be. 45 mph on the freeway was easy,
the problem was with the side roads which were pretty rough with a heavy
trailer and no load. A 20 mile trip in about 40 minutes. Took 5 minutes to
set the ramps and back it off.
Good Bogy-Bar is a requirement!
<<...>> <<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
If's funny, I was a nervous Nellie but my buddy's who did the majority of
the loading were just fearless. As Allen said, " who cares, it's not my
airplane". (arms raised ;-) Apparently that takes all the stress off :-)
Bill S
7a getting closer to the runway
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.375 / 05:53:00
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV7-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 270.13.5/2219 - Release Date: 07/07/09 05:53:00
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Wing Tip Installation - Droopy Right...
Dear Listers,
I installed the wing tips on the -8 last week and they came out perfect. I was
really pleased and relieved. They each took about 8 hours including cutting
the plastic lens.
That's the good news. The bad news is that the right tip at the trailing edge
came out about 1/2" low. The left one is exactly the correct height. I measured
this by making the short aileron push rod the exact length stated on the plans
(27 5/8" I think it was) and then using that W-730 jig to center the bellcrank
and I assume the aileron.
Installation of the left wing tip, which I did first, went really smoothly and
I had little trouble fitting or aligning. The right one, however, really fought
me and in my zest to make sure that the lap joint between the metal skin and
the fiberglass was perfect, I kind of neglected to triple check the height of
the trailing edge of the tip as it related to the aileron. I focused more on
the alignment of length of the two and that they were correct.
Anyway, I was rigging the ailerons this week and connecting to the control stick
and that's when I noticed that the right tip was drooping about 1/2" lower than
the aileron. I tried removing the tip RIB and fusing around a bit, but this
didn't help, and then I tried slitting the trailing edge of the tip. This
allowed me to align the tip to the aileron at the inboard side of the tip, but
it didn't allow me to raise the outboard edge of the tip (without a whole bunch
of extra fiberglass work).
I'm not opposed to getting a new wing tip and just starting over again, but I was
wondering if anyone else had this same trouble, i.e. left tip fit great, right
tip didn't fit very well and was low at the trailing edge. I'm wondering
if its just a problem with the fiberglass layup.
Now that all of the holes in the skin for the wing tip mounting are dimpled (I
used #6 screws), fitting a new tip is going to be a real tough job because I won't
be able to get the tip flat against the skin. Arg...
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Wing-to-Fuselage Fairings (oh, and redoing the right wing tip)...
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2009
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Installation - Droopy Right...
If you drilled and fit your tip before rigging... well there it is. Tips are the
very last fit. They move around too much and your goal is to match the rigging.
-d-
--- On Fri, 7/10/09, Matt Dralle wrote:
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: RV7-List: Wing Tip Installation - Droopy Right...
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, July 10, 2009, 4:26 PM
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I installed the wing tips on the -8 last week and they came
> out perfect. I was really pleased and relieved.
> They each took about 8 hours including cutting the plastic
> lens.
>
> That's the good news. The bad news is that the right
> tip at the trailing edge came out about 1/2" low. The
> left one is exactly the correct height. I measured
> this by making the short aileron push rod the exact length
> stated on the plans (27 5/8" I think it was) and then using
> that W-730 jig to center the bellcrank and I assume the
> aileron.
>
> Installation of the left wing tip, which I did first, went
> really smoothly and I had little trouble fitting or
> aligning. The right one, however, really fought me and
> in my zest to make sure that the lap joint between the metal
> skin and the fiberglass was perfect, I kind of neglected to
> triple check the height of the trailing edge of the tip as
> it related to the aileron. I focused more on the
> alignment of length of the two and that they were correct.
>
> Anyway, I was rigging the ailerons this week and connecting
> to the control stick and that's when I noticed that the
> right tip was drooping about 1/2" lower than the
> aileron. I tried removing the tip RIB and fusing
> around a bit, but this didn't help, and then I tried
> slitting the trailing edge of the tip. This allowed me
> to align the tip to the aileron at the inboard side of the
> tip, but it didn't allow me to raise the outboard edge of
> the tip (without a whole bunch of extra fiberglass work).
>
> I'm not opposed to getting a new wing tip and just starting
> over again, but I was wondering if anyone else had this same
> trouble, i.e. left tip fit great, right tip didn't fit very
> well and was low at the trailing edge. I'm wondering
> if its just a problem with the fiberglass layup.
>
> Now that all of the holes in the skin for the wing tip
> mounting are dimpled (I used #6 screws), fitting a new tip
> is going to be a real tough job because I won't be able to
> get the tip flat against the skin. Arg...
>
> Any feedback would be appreciated.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> Wing-to-Fuselage Fairings (oh, and redoing the right wing
> tip)...
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2009
From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Installation - Droopy Right...
Mat
One possible solution is to carefuly split the trailing edge of the wing tip.
This can be done with a hack saw blade. Thetip can then be pulled apart. Insert
a layerof fiberglass
cloth impregnated with a thick slurry of epoxy mixed with milled glass. The trailing
tip can then be positioned to line up with the aeleron's trailing edge,
and clamped until it sets.
Then trim off fiberglass. Then fill any holes and sand to finish. If done properly,
it should be as strong as original.
Good luck!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 10, 2009, at 2:26 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
Dear Listers,
I installed the wing tips on the -8 last week and they came out perfect. I was
really pleased and relieved. They each took about 8 hours including cutting
the plastic lens.
That's the good news. The bad news is that the right tip at the trailing edge
came out about 1/2" low. The left one is exactly the correct height. I measured
this by making the short aileron push rod the exact length stated on the plans
(27 5/8" I think it was) and then using that W-730 jig to center the bellcrank
and I assume the aileron.
Installation of the left wing tip, which I did first, went really smoothly and
I had little trouble fitting or aligning. The right one, however, really fought
me and in my zest to make sure that the lap joint between the metal skin and
the fiberglass was perfect, I kind of neglected to triple check the height of
the trailing edge of the tip as it related to the aileron. I focused more on
the alignment of length of the two and that they were correct.
Anyway, I was rigging the ailerons this week and connecting to the control stick
and that's when I noticed that the right tip was drooping about 1/2" lower than
the aileron. I tried removing the tip RIB and fusing around a bit, but this
didn't help, and then I tried slitting the trailing edge of the tip. This
allowed me to align the tip to the aileron at the inboard side of the tip, but
it didn't allow me to raise the outboard edge of the tip (without a whole bunch
of extra fiberglass work).
I'm not opposed to getting a new wing tip and just starting over again, but I was
wondering if anyone else had this same trouble, i.e. left tip fit great, right
tip didn't fit very well and was low at the trailing edge. I'm wondering
if its just a problem with the fiberglass layup.
Now that all of the holes in the skin for the wing tip mounting are dimpled (I
used #6 screws), fitting a new tip is going to be a real tough job because I won't
be able to get the tip flat against the skin. Arg...
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Wing-to-Fuselage Fairings (oh, and redoing the right wing tip)...
<2009.07.02 - RV-8 - Right Wing Tip Installation A (42).jpg>
<2009.06.28 - RV-8 - Left Wing Tip Installation (39).jpg>
<2009.07.02 - RV-8 - Right Wing Tip Installation A (40).jpg>
<2009.06.28 - RV-8 - Left Wing Tip Installation (42).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2009
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Installation - Droopy Right...
Matt,
I don't agree with patch and fit. Just like wheel pants, if they are not lined
up correctly it will show in performance. Don't PATCH it, fix it properly.
-d-
--- On Fri, 7/10/09, David Cudney wrote:
> From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Wing Tip Installation - Droopy Right...
> To: "rv7-list(at)matronics.com"
> Date: Friday, July 10, 2009, 7:45 PM
> David Cudney
>
>
> Mat
> One possible solution is to carefuly split the trailing
> edge of the wing tip. This can be done with a hack saw
> blade. Thetip can then be pulled
> apart.Insert a layerof fiberglass
> cloth impregnated with a thick slurry of epoxy mixed with
> milled glass. The trailing tip can then be positioned
> to line up with the aeleron's trailing edge, and clamped
> until it sets.
> Then trim off fiberglass. Then fill any holes and sand to
> finish. If done properly, it should be as strong as
> original.
> Good luck!
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 10, 2009, at 2:26 PM, Matt Dralle
> wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I installed the wing tips on the -8 last week and they came
> out perfect. I was really pleased and relieved.
> They each took about 8 hours including cutting the plastic
> lens.
>
> That's the good news. The bad news is that the right
> tip at the trailing edge came out about 1/2" low. The
> left one is exactly the correct height. I measured
> this by making the short aileron push rod the exact length
> stated on the plans (27 5/8" I think it was) and then using
> that W-730 jig to center the bellcrank and I assume the
> aileron.
>
> Installation of the left wing tip, which I did first, went
> really smoothly and I had little trouble fitting or
> aligning. The right one, however, really fought me and
> in my zest to make sure that the lap joint between the metal
> skin and the fiberglass was perfect, I kind of neglected to
> triple check the height of the trailing edge of the tip as
> it related to the aileron. I focused more on the
> alignment of length of the two and that they were correct.
>
> Anyway, I was rigging the ailerons this week and connecting
> to the control stick and that's when I noticed that the
> right tip was drooping about 1/2" lower than the
> aileron. I tried removing the tip RIB and fusing
> around a bit, but this didn't help, and then I tried
> slitting the trailing edge of the tip. This allowed me
> to align the tip to the aileron at the inboard side of the
> tip, but it didn't allow me to raise the outboard edge of
> the tip (without a whole bunch of extra fiberglass work).
>
> I'm not opposed to getting a new wing tip and just starting
> over again, but I was wondering if anyone else had this same
> trouble, i.e. left tip fit great, right tip didn't fit very
> well and was low at the trailing edge. I'm wondering
> if its just a problem with the fiberglass layup.
>
> Now that all of the holes in the skin for the wing tip
> mounting are dimpled (I used #6 screws), fitting a new tip
> is going to be a real tough job because I won't be able to
> get the tip flat against the skin. Arg...
>
> Any feedback would be appreciated.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> Wing-to-Fuselage Fairings (oh, and redoing the right wing
> tip)...
> <2009.07.02 - RV-8 - Right Wing Tip Installation A
> (42).jpg>
> <2009.06.28 - RV-8 - Left Wing Tip Installation
> (39).jpg>
> <2009.07.02 - RV-8 - Right Wing Tip Installation A
> (40).jpg>
> <2009.06.28 - RV-8 - Left Wing Tip Installation
> (42).jpg>
>
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Pirep - Fairings-Etc Gear Intersection Fairings...
Since I'm building a *metal* airplane and not a fiberglass airplane by personal
choice, when it was time to start the gear intersection fairings I was shocked
and amazed that I was expected to use modeling clay and a make my own mold-in-place
gear intersection fairings. I could probably get one side to look okay,
but I *knew* there'd be no way I could make the other side look just like the
first side. Since I'm considered compulsive about my need for ying/yang and
feng shui in my projects, I just knew this task was going to be a huge pain
in the tail feathers.
I turned to the Internet as I so often do when faced with overwhelming situations, and after a few pokes at the 'ol Google, I happened upon the Fairings-Etc web site ( http://www.fairings-etc.com/ ). Bob Snedaker of Fairings-Etc makes all sorts of fiberglass bits and pieces and after a some of surfing around his web site I found that he is now offering upper and lower main gear intersection fairings for the RV-8 with the Grove Airfoiled landing gear!
The parts arrived yesterday and I pulled them out of the box and slipped them on
the gear and was simply *amazed* at the beautiful fit! They will require a
bit of finishing and final fitting, but nothing major. Their shape is very pleasing
and really tie the Grove gear together with the fuselage and wheel pants.
I've attached a few pictures of the fairings as the look right out of the
box.
The Upper set of fairings are $130 and the lower set are $140. In my opinion an
excellent investment in my RV-8 project. Not only will they save me a ton of
time, but they will look 100 times better than anything I could have ever come
up with.
Run - don't walk - over to Fairings-Etc and order yourself a set today! You won't
be sorry!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Wing-to-Fuselage Fairings...
(Note that I have no affiliation with Fairings-Etc other than being a very satisfied
customer.)
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2009
From: Tim Keen <tim.keen(at)twkllc.com>
Subject: RV-7A Quickbuild Kit for Sale
I have an RV-7A QB kit for sale. Got married, bought a house, moved twice, new
job, and simply have no time to finish this remarkable aircraft (and frankly,
no money either).
The empennage is complete, including the new, larger rudder. The QB wings are complete
(minus the one skin that Van's leaves off), and still in the shipping
crate, as are the ailerons and flaps. Some minor progress has been made on the
QB fuselage (seats completed, baggage area done, etc.), but it's almost exactly
as it would come from Van's. It's ready for a new builder to install systems
(electrical, brake lines, fuel lines, etc). This is a slider canopy model. I
have all plans/drawings, all the parts from Van's (cataloged), and a builder's
log and photos that can go with it to the new owner. All you would need to complete
the airframe is a finish kit from Van's.
All of this would run about $25k from Van's plus shipping. I'm asking $20k OBO.
But wait, there's more. In my eagerness early on this project, I bought a Blue
Mountain Avionics EFIS/One system. It's still brand new in the box. The hardware
is a generation behind the one currently being offered, but has all the same
features (3D terrain and all). I'd like to get $8k for this (half the cost of
new), or I'd take $25K for the system and QB kit combined. This is about a $15k
savings over ordering a new QB kit and EFIS/One.
I live in St. Louis, MO.
Tim Keen
314-503-1624
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Owens" <springcanyon(at)methow.com>
Subject: email?
Date: Jul 22, 2009
Hi Lilot,
Pat said you called and that you need some information. Just let me know
what I can do for you.
Is it warm enough for you? We went to Perrigen Lake while the kids were
here and that was very nice on a hot day.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2009
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Looking for Builders Asistance
Greetings:
Have RV-8A QB Kit. -Have completed Empennage and looking for assistance t
o complete Project. -Does anybody know of any person(s) that do Builders
Assistance in Southern California (preferably in the Los Angeles Area) ????
Appreciate any leads !!!!
Thanks, -Garey Wittich - Santa Monica, CA - -(310) 392-1682=0A=0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2009
Subject: Re: Looking for Builders Asistance
From: Larry Helming <lrhelming(at)gmail.com>
Yes, join your local EAA chapter. You will meet lots of others who have
experience in building experimental planes and the RV8 is one of the most
popular. Larry in Indiana, EAA chapter 21, past president.
On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 10:16 PM, Garey Wittich
wrote:
> Greetings:
> Have RV-8A QB Kit. Have completed Empennage and looking for assistance to
> complete Project. Does anybody know of any person(s) that do Builders
> Assistance in Southern California (preferably in the Los Angeles Area) ????
>
> Appreciate any leads !!!!
>
> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
In God I Trust.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Conduit Placement in QB RV7 Wings
Date: Jul 25, 2009
Can't decide if this is a good thing to do or not. I need to run conduit in
my QB wings but there are no consistent tooling holes anywhere except where
Vans put the pitot holes and the one tooling hole above that. (actually
below if the wing is right side up).
It would be pretty easy to put a 3/4 hole in place of the pitot holes and in
the tooling holes above with a 3/4 step drill and a 4 foot extension but it
would get pretty close to the spar. Is there an edge distance issue with
this or does it even apply? Doing it anywhere else without the tooling
holes is problematic?
Any comments, suggestions, pictures appreciated.
Bill S
RV7 only the wings left,..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bolton" <list(at)therv7.com>
Subject: Re: Conduit Placement in QB RV7 Wings
Date: Jul 25, 2009
Conduit Placement in QB RV7 WingsBill,
I'm still deciding what path to take myself. Here's another idea that I
found online that may interest you.
Tim Bolton
Denver, NC
RV-7 (#72696)
www.TheRV7.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Schultz" <lschultz5(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Conduit Placement in QB RV7 Wings
Date: Jul 25, 2009
Hi Bill,
I am working on slow build wings and have drilled =BE inch holes in the
aft
tooling hole and just aft of the larger lighting hole near the top skin.
This will give me the ability to run antenna wires, lights, etc. with
minimal to no EMI. Here is a link to Van=92s recommended location
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Wiring.pdf if you haven=92t already
viewed it.
Regards,
Dan
From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 8:14 PM
RV9-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV7-List: Conduit Placement in QB RV7 Wings
Can't decide if this is a good thing to do or not. I need to run
conduit in
my QB wings but there are no consistent tooling holes anywhere except
where
Vans put the pitot holes and the one tooling hole above that. (actually
below if the wing is right side up).
It would be pretty easy to put a 3/4 hole in place of the pitot holes
and in
the tooling holes above with a 3/4 step drill and a 4 foot extension but
it
would get pretty close to the spar. Is there an edge distance issue
with
this or does it even apply? Doing it anywhere else without the tooling
holes is problematic?
Any comments, suggestions, pictures appreciated. <<...>>
Bill S
RV7 only the wings left,=85.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon & Lola Hussey" <jandlhussey(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Conduit Placement in QB RV7 Wings
Date: Jul 25, 2009
Conduit Placement in QB RV7 Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Schlatterer
To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com ; RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com ;
rv-list(at)matronics.com ; RV9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 6:13 PM
Subject: RV7-List: Conduit Placement in QB RV7 Wings
Can't decide if this is a good thing to do or not. I need to run
conduit in my QB wings but there are no consistent tooling holes
anywhere except where Vans put the pitot holes and the one tooling hole
above that. (actually below if the wing is right side up).
It would be pretty easy to put a 3/4 hole in place of the pitot holes
and in the tooling holes above with a 3/4 step drill and a 4 foot
extension but it would get pretty close to the spar. Is there an edge
distance issue with this or does it even apply? Doing it anywhere else
without the tooling holes is problematic?
Any comments, suggestions, pictures appreciated. <<...>>
Bill S
RV7 only the wings left,..
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 2009
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Conduit Placement in QB RV7 Wings
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>
> Can't decide if this is a good thing to do or not. I need to run
> conduit in my QB wings but there are no consistent tooling holes
> anywhere except where Vans put the pitot holes and the one tooling
> hole above that. (actually below if the wing is right side up).
>
> It would be pretty easy to put a 3/4 hole in place of the pitot holes
> and in the tooling holes above with a 3/4 step drill and a 4 foot
> extension but it would get pretty close to the spar. Is there an edge
> distance issue with this or does it even apply? Doing it anywhere
> else without the tooling holes is problematic?
>
> Any comments, suggestions, pictures appreciated. <<...>>
>
>
> Bill S
> RV7 only the wings left,....
>
This is what I did: CPVC? (lighter than regular PVC) and joist hangers
from Big R Ranch Supply.
John Morgensen
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires
From: "ronjazz" <ronnjaz(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 02, 2009
well for me I just got 1/3" hole above the servo screw..
_________________
Elevator shoes (http://www.itallershoes.com/)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=255611#255611
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Vetterman 4-into-4 RV-8/IO-390 Exhaust...
Dear Listers,
I got the Vetterman 4-into-4 RV-8/IO-390 exhaust system installed last weekend. It fit perfectly, and looks awesome too! I've attached a few pictures on the installation. (Digest Listers: Check the Forums interface for the pictures at http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=4 )
Here's my question. How close should the pipes actually be to the bottom of the
exhaust ramp? The mounting system will allow me to push them up pretty close,
but is that wise? The installation instructions didn't really lend any guidance
here.
BTW, the IO-390 engine went on without a problem. Here's some pictures:
(7 Log Entries)
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2972&log=86633&row=29
And here's some real-time shots from the MattCams:
(9 Log Entries)
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2972&log=86655&row=22
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2009
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Vetterman 4-into-4 RV-8/IO-390 Exhaust...
Hey Matt,
I don't have any experience (yet) with this model....I was building the RV-
10 and got to this point before selling.=C2- Vetterman makes a great syst
em.=C2- This with the 390 oughta sound sweet and perform great!=C2- The
10 had concerns with the "hot tunnel" that I don't imagine exisits with=C2
-8's open floor.=C2- They general concern there was touching the tunnel
with your legs and possible heat related issues with the fuel system insid
e.=C2- If your routing avoids the fuel system by enough...I think it will
be fine.=C2- Of course, watch the bottom cowl and use heat protection.
=C2- Leave enough room between the exhaust and the fuselage for movement
in vibration.
Looks very nice!
BTW....this post was sent to me on the rv7-list.
Sean Blair
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 9:08:26 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: RV7-List: Vetterman 4-into-4 RV-8/IO-390 Exhaust...
Dear Listers,
I got the Vetterman 4-into-4 RV-8/IO-390 exhaust system installed last week
end. =C2- =C2-It fit perfectly, and looks awesome too! =C2-I've attac
hed a few pictures on the installation. =C2-(Digest Listers: Check the Fo
rums interface for the pictures at http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.ph
p?f=4 )
Here's my question. =C2-How close should the pipes actually be to the bot
tom of the exhaust ramp? =C2-The mounting system will allow me to push th
em up pretty close, but is that wise? =C2-The installation instructions d
idn't really lend any guidance here.
BTW, the IO-390 engine went on without a problem. =C2-Here's some picture
s:
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-(7 Log Entries)
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-http://www.mykitlog.com/use
rs/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2972&log=86633&
row=29
And here's some real-time shots from the MattCams:
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-(9 Log Entries)
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-http://www.mykitlog.com/use
rs/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2972&log=86655&
row=22
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today!
Listers!
It seemed like a rather momentous occasion today since the Hartzell CS prop got
mounted to the front of the 'ol RV-8 project!! Yahoo! I really like the looks
of the non-blended airfoil blades. They just have a more traditional, mean
and manly look, IMHO. The 72" dia also has those fatter paddles which looks
cool too.
Just two weeks from initial engine mounting to prop installation. The FWF controls
and wiring are done too. All of the CHT/EGT/PSI probes even worked the first
time!
Anyway, just thought I'd share. Cowling goes on next, then the baffling... Wish
me luck. ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
Cowling and Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Schoen <flybill2usa(at)msn.com>
Subject: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today!
Date: Aug 30, 2009
Looks great Matt. Won't be long and it will have air under it. Nice looking
airplane.
bill schoen
> Date: Sat=2C 29 Aug 2009 17:29:48 -0700
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list@matronics
.com=3B rv9-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV7-List: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today!
>
> Listers!
>
> It seemed like a rather momentous occasion today since the Hartzell CS pr
op got mounted to the front of the 'ol RV-8 project!! Yahoo! I really like
the looks of the non-blended airfoil blades. They just have a more traditio
nal=2C mean and manly look=2C IMHO. The 72" dia also has those fatter paddl
es which looks cool too.
>
> Just two weeks from initial engine mounting to prop installation. The FWF
controls and wiring are done too. All of the CHT/EGT/PSI probes even worke
d the first time!
>
> Anyway=2C just thought I'd share. Cowling goes on next=2C then the baffli
ng... Wish me luck. =3B-)
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> Cowling and Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Fitting The Spinner To A Hartzell
Listers,
Hartzell recommends a minimum .1" clearance around the prop blade for the spinner.
I did that exactly, but the prop would still bang on the spinner at full
pitch. I had to hog out to .25" to keep the clearance at .1" at full pitch.
It looked stupid having such a large gap in one area only so I evened it up to
.25" all the way around. But now it kind of looks like I made the holes too
big. I just can't recall seeing other installations to know if my .25" is "too
much". Anyone have any pics or thoughts on the clearance using late-model Van's
CS spinner and a Hartzell, particularly the 72" paddle blades I've got?
Thanks!