RV8-Archive.digest.vol-aa
September 11, 1999 - December 25, 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Welcome to the new RV8-List Email List at Matronics! |
Welcome to the new RV8-List Email List at Matronics!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | New, RV Model-Specific Email Lists At Matronics! |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Dear RV Listers,
A couple of weeks ago I received a request from a fellow (I accidently deleted
his email message - please write me again) who had been running an RV-3 email
list and was wondering if I would be interested in taking it over for him. It
seemed like a good idea and I thought that I would go ahead and create not only
the RV3-specific list, but also one for the RV4, RV6, and RV8 models as well.
Well, you can imagine my surprise when Joe Colontonio announced his new RV-8
email list this week! Anyway, I'm definitely not trying to 'one-up' Joe, but
I wanted to added the model-specific lists to the current RV-List here at
Matronics. The new Lists (RV3-List, RV4-List, RV6-List, and RV8-List) each
have their own digest mode, as well as the traditional Archive Search Engine
access and Archive Browsing capability via the web interface.
Please note that the current RV-List general List still exists and will
continue to co-exist with these new model-specific Lists. I would encourage
everyone to only use the specific Lists for discussions that severely only
relate to the model in question.
You may subscribe to any of the new model-specific Lists at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The Matronics Email Weasel" <testmail(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Test from Matronics - Please Ignore - Weasel #WSN01944 |
Weasel-Number: WSN01944
User Serial Number: WSN01944
User Email Address: rv8 127edk(at)cs.com
This is a test message to determine the source of bogus email addresses.
Please do *not* respond to this message as the test relies upon which email
addresses bounce this message. Your email address could be inadvertently
deleted from the List if you respond directly to this message.
This test is being done to locate bad email addresses currently on one of
the following email Lists sponsored by Matronics:
Aerobatic-List, Aviation-List, Beech-List, Cessna-List, EZ-List,
Glasair-List, Homebuilt-List, Kolb-List, Lancair-List, Piper-List,
Rocket-List, RV-List, RV3-List, RV4-List, RV6-List, RV8-List,
Sailplane-List, Seaplane-List, Ultralight-List, Warbird-List,
Yak-List, Zenith-List
The results of this test aid in purging bad email addresses from the Lists
and can increase the performance of the email list server substantially.
Thank you for your patience and understanding.
Matt Dralle
Matronics
dralle(at)matronics.com
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Two MORE Email Lists at Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
At the request of a couple of members, I have added two more Email Lists to
the Servers here at Matronics. These include:
avionics-list(at)matronics.com
Aircraft Avionics related topics such as Radios, GPSs, VSIs, DMEs, etc.
engines-list(at)matronics.com
Aircraft Engine related topics such as Lycomings, Auto conversions, etc.
As usual, the new lists have full archive searching and browsing capabilities.
You may subscribe to the new lists by using the Web-Based subscription form
at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: | New Specific RV Lists Auto Forwarded to RV-List... |
Hi RV Listers,
I've received quite a few comments about the diluting affect having specific
lists will have on the main RV-List. Also, that archive searching would be
somewhat more difficult.
I've tried something this morning that might solve the problem. What I've
done is automatically forward any messages sent to the RV3-List, RV4-List,
RV6-List, and RV8-List to the main RV-List. This will assure that all
messages will be appended to the RV-List archive, easing the searching task
as well.
What do people think of this solution?
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
PS - I think that I've set it up so that, when a message is cross-posted to
more than one RV-Specific List as I did with this message, only one copy
will be forwarded to the RV-List for general viewing. Hopefully!
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Sound Damping Tape for Aircraft |
This is from AAMR/AirCore.
There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages
to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it.
Regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | canopy release- another option |
Hi all,
There was some talk before about having a method of releasing the canopy on an
RV-8, and the only
option I heard of was to install pins (rather than bolts) where the roller assemblies
attach to the
canopy frame. The idea was that you could pull two pins, then unlatch the canopy
and push it up
into the airstream. The only problem I see with this plan is that it requires
a number of
operations to be performed in what could be a violently out of control aircraft.
In trying to simplify the procedure, I thought about cutting a notch out of the
top of the canopy
rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that you'd
want to position
these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers. It
would look something
like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg
Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up as you
opened it. What do
you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method of
pulling the pins?
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (cutting canopy next)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: canopy release- another option |
Sorry to be so absent from my own question, but it wasn't my idea (work sucks).
> It looks like it should work nicely. The only concern I've got is
> whether you could have the canopy come off when opening or closing it
> on the ground in some bad combination of prop blast and wind gust.
>
> Take care,
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done)
I thought about this, but figured I could make sure the canopy was sitting behind
the spot where the
notch was. For an -8, gravity will keep the canopy from ever sliding forward accidentally.
but I
don't know about an -8A. While opening or closing the canopy, you would just have
to make sure to
keep some downward pressure on the canopy while sliding it past the notch.
>I like your idea. But I have a serious concern. If you accidentally forget
>to latch the canopy, it will likely open up on takeoff to just about that
>point, and.... WHOOSH! I don't know how the -8 canopy behaves but on the -6
>slider it will slide open just so far, and stay there. If that slot is in
>the spot it wants to open up to on takeoff, well.... :-{
>
>I would like to have an alternative to the pins, because I found late in the
>game (after I bought some quick release pins), that my key lock is too close
>to the fwd frame to allow their use on that side. But aside from that I
>don't think pulling the pins is a bad option.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying)
Now this is something I hadn't thought of, and boy would it ruin your day. I'd
like to say I'd
never forget to latch the canopy, but...
I suppose the notches could be located far enough back that the canopy likely (?)
wouldn't reach
them if it popped open, but that also makes it harder to reach yourself if needed.
I've even
thought of drilling vertical holes in one of the rails to allow a pin to be dropped
in as a stop.
This could be located various places for various reasons, but I can't say that
it would be a perfect
solution.
Now that you mention it, I also need to take a closer look at how the handle might
interfere with
the pins.
>How about building a cover plate for each of the notches you have cut
>out? Place the cover over the top of the cutout, making it slightly
>
>
>By removing one bolt/fastener on each side, you will be able to pivot
>the retaining plate out of the way when you want to jettison the canopy.
>Charlie Kuss
I thought about some sort of removable top cover for the notches, but it wouldn't
require any fewer
steps than just pulling the pins. If you could make a real nice cover though,
it might be easier to
actuate than the pins.
As I think about it, this might actually be the best compromise. Make a cover
for the top of the
notches that is easily removable in flight. The only time you would likely need
to get rid of the
canopy in a big hurry, and with the least effort, is due to a loss of control
when you're wearing a
chute. I see this as a planned aerobatic session for most people. There are times
when you need to
get rid of the canopy for other reasons, such as an off field landing where the
plane might flip
over. In those cases, you will probably have enough time to release the covers
prior to opening the
canopy. As I imagine it, the procedure would be to have the covers in place until
you plan to start
your aerobatics, then they would be release along with other items like making
sure you're on the
inverted tank, and triple checking your seat belts.
I'll have to think about this some more, especially a method to fashion the cover,
but I already
have a couple ideas. I think I like it :-)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy next)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Subject: | Vertical location of VS on RV-8? |
How do you know precisely where to locate the VS when mounting? There is
nothing specified in the manual, and no real vertical dimensions I can see
on dwg 27. What am I missing?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, mounting emp, starting to look like a plane, too bad I have to
take it back off!
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED2131(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/03/99 |
JUST A HINT
BEFORE CLOSING YOUR LANDING GEAR BOXES
INSTALL THE FUEL VENT LINES. I DIDN'T AND AM FIGHTING THEM NOW.
GOOD LUCK..............ED 80127
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: rv8list-fitting fuel tanks built by Aviacomp |
Fellow 8ers:
I had my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp. I am having some difficulty getting
them to fit properly in relation to the leading edge skins on top and the
pre-drilled holes on the main spar.
There is about an 1/8" gap on the top and yet the bottom skins butt right up??
I also can't seem to pull the tanks down far enough on the spar to reach the
pre-drilled holes. I have used the cargo straps and all the muscle I have
Help!!
Len in NC
8A, ready to skin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED2131(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/08/99 |
I'M LOOKING FOR IDEAS FOR MOUNTING THE ELT ANTENNA IN MY 8. ANY SUGGETIONS
WOUL BE APPRECIATED.
THANKS, ED 80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED2131(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/13/99 |
i'm just starting to think and plan my elec. sys. for the rv-8. right now it
seems to be overwhelming. is there a step by step process of where to put
this or that and whatever. i want to start with the battery and the ground
bloc, but are they going to be in the way of something else later on? is
there a simple plan? i've always believed in the kiss plan and i just don't
see it yet.
thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.............ed 80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/13/99 |
Ed,
I felt the same way when I was at that point. I first concentrated on
my
instrument panel. If you have vacuum instruments, this will take up alot of room
with hoses and regulators and such. Wiring can be planned around these items.
I have the battery in the forward location as per Van's plans. Van's has
a wiring schematic for the RV-8 but they don't advertise it. It comes with the
wiring kit they sell. The wiring schematic shows many wire runs and answers
questions like where to cut a hole in the F-806 web. It helped me.
Joe Czachorowski
#80125
SALNED2131(at)cs.com wrote:
>
> i'm just starting to think and plan my elec. sys. for the rv-8. right now it
> seems to be overwhelming. is there a step by step process of where to put
> this or that and whatever. i want to start with the battery and the ground
> bloc, but are they going to be in the way of something else later on? is
> there a simple plan? i've always believed in the kiss plan and i just don't
> see it yet.
>
> thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.............ed 80127
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | List of RV-8/8A plans/instructions/parts problems |
RV-8/8A builders,
I just moved my web page to a new server, and supposedly have no
limit on how much space I use, unlike the old one where I had to
remove old material to make room for new stuff.
So, now that I have all this space to play with, I am considering
putting together a list of known issues with the plans, instructions
or parts for the RV-8 or 8A. If everyone sends me info on the
problems they are aware of, this could become a useful resource. If
no one contributes, it will go nowhere.
Please send me info on know problems. I'll post a message once I get
the page up and running.
If it is a problem with the plans, please specify what drawing number
and revision level. Please clearly explain the problem, any info you
got from Vans', and what you did to fix the problem.
If it is a problem with the instructions, please indicate what
section and page, and the date on your version of the plans.
If you've already put something on the web explaining a problem, just
send me the location, and I'll just add a link to your info.
Happy building,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | JPI vs. Matronics Settlement Reached... |
Dear Listers,
After seven months of negotiations, JP Instruments, Inc. and Matronics
have reached a mutually agreeable settlement. As most of you are aware,
in February of this year, JP Instruments, Inc. alleged that Matronics'
use of the trademark "FuelScan" with its aircraft fuel management system
infringed upon JP Instruments, Inc's trademark "Scanner" for engine
temperature indicators. JP Instruments, Inc. requested that Matronics
discontinue the use of the "FuelScan" mark. After considerable
negotiations, we have come to an agreement whereby JP Instruments, Inc.
will purchase the FuelScan trademark and, if necessary, assist in paying
the cost of Matronics' adoption of a new trademark. Matronics will
continue to sell and market its aircraft fuel management system under
the FuelScan trademark until a phase-out period of up to one year is
completed. This will allow Matronics time to sell out its current stock
of units marked with the FuelScan trademark and to develop a new
trademark.
While negotiations have been a bit trying at times, I would like to say
that I am satisfied with the outcome, and feel that JP Instruments, Inc.
has treated Matronics and me fairly in this matter. Furthermore, I
would encourage you to consider JP Instruments for your aircraft
avionics in the future as they manufacture an excellent product line.
Finally, I would like to thank everyone from around the world for their
support and consideration in this matter. I was quite moved by the
support - both financial and in the form of letters and comments - that
builders and pilots provided me and my company during this time. I
never felt alone during this period, and so very much appreciated the
encouragement from thousands of my friends! Thank you so very much!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
President, Matronics
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Hey Guys,
What are your thoughts on where to run the oil
breather line. "Air -Oil Separator" or drip on the pipes or something
else?
Joe Czachorowski
RV-8 #80125
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
In a message dated 11/13/99 6:50:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
midnight(at)udel.edu writes:
<<
Hey Guys,
What are your thoughts on where to run the oil
breather line. "Air -Oil Separator" or drip on the pipes or something
else?
Joe Czachorowski
RV-8 #80125
>>
Joe,
Mine is set up to drip on the exhaust pipe. I still seem to get some oil on
the belly of the plane. Funny thing, I had my RV-4 set up the same way and
the bottom always stayed clean.
Regards,
Louis Smith
RV-8 #80126
N801RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Electrical Noise |
Guys,
I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm
radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as
long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up
the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with
the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing
this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise
also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going
to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas
out there?
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
(wiring finally done except for that stupid annoying noise!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lousmith(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Electrical Noise |
In a message dated 11/17/99 10:49:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
midnight(at)udel.edu writes:
<<
Guys,
I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm
radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as
long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up
the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with
the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing
this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise
also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going
to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas
out there?
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
(wiring finally done except for that stupid annoying noise!)
>>
Joe,
You might do an archive search or ask Electric Bob. Seems I remember someone
else having that same problem a few years back. I think they added some sort
of filter to the back of the turn coordinator.
Louis Smith
RV-8 #80126
N801RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | [Please Read] List Fund Raiser Continues; LOC #1 December 1st! |
Greetings Listers!
Don't forget the 1999 List Fund Raiser is still in progress and there is
still plenty of time to make a Contribution and assure yourself a place
on on the first List Of Contributors (LOC)! I will post the first LOC
on December 1st and it will detail everyone that has generously made a
Contribution so far this year!!
It costs a great deal to maintain the Email and Web server systems and
high-speed Internet connection that provide the Email List services
found here. I won't even mention the many, many hours I spend each week
running the Lists, doing backups, handling subscription requests, and
creating new email and web features and services such as the Archive
Search Engine, and Archive Browser... Whoops; I think I just did! :-)
This year's Fund Raiser started out pretty slow and I was starting to
think that no one appreciated me anymore... ;-) But, in the last week
or so things have really started to pick up! So if you haven't made a
Contribution yet this year, why not join your email List friends and
make a contribution today to support the continued operation of these
Lists!
There are two easy methods for making your Contribution:
* Make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
surf over to:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
* Make a Contribution by check, send US Mail to:
Matronics
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
I would like to sincerely thank everyone who has already made a
Contribution so far this year! I greatly appreciate your generosity and
support and want you to know that these Lists have been made possible
directly by *YOU*!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Your Email List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Clicking Noise |
Joe,
Yes and yes
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
In a message dated Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:46:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, Joe Czachorowski
writes:
>
> Guys,
> I have a 0-360 A1D Lycoming Overhauled engine that was
> converted to a 0-360 A1A with the removal of the Bendix Mags and the
> installation of new Slicks. The dealer that I bought the engine from
> changed the mags over. Question.... When I pull the prop through with
> the spark plugs out, I can here a loud clicking noise coming from the
> left mag. Is this from the impulse coupler? Is this noise normal?
>
> Joe
> RV-8 # 80125
> (installing spaghetti to the engine)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Clicking Noise & other stuff |
> Is this from the impulse coupler? Is this noise normal?
Yes, Joe, no problem. Impulse "clack" and perfectly normal.
Nice to see some traffic on this list finally. I subscribed to it a few
weeks ago, and hadn't seen anything until this message.
By way of introduction, I'm Joe Norris from Wisconsin Rapids, WI. I'm a
long-time EAA member, and have previously built a Sonerai and converted a
Tri-Pacer to Pacer configuration. I am a CFI, A&P, and IA.
As for RV-8 activity, I have an engine and will soon be ordering an RV-8
quickbuild kit. Gotta finish up a couple other small non-aviation projects
in the shop first in order to make room!
Looking forward to chatting with other RV-8 builders as time goes on!
Joe Norris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | 1999 List of Contributors #1 and a Special Thank You Message!! |
Dear Listers,
I would like to personally thank each and everyone that has contributed
this year to 1999 List Fund Raiser! As you can see from the list of
names below, there were many, many generous people from the Lists this
time around and I want everyone to know just how much your support has
meant to me. The list of members below includes those that have
contributed during this year's List Fund Raiser as well as those that
have contributed throughout the year and also those that made a donation
to my Legal Defense Fund earlier in the year that was sponsored my our
own Bob Nuckolls of Aero Electric.
I want everyone to know just how much it means to me to receive the type
of financial support for these Lists that I have this year. As the Lists
have grown so much over the last few years, so have the equipment costs
as well as the monthly costs such as the Internet connectivity. Your
generosity during the Fund Raiser and throughout the year, truly makes
the continued operation, and more importantly, the continued upgrade and
improvement of these aviation-related services directly possible. That
is the bottom line. Please accept my most sincere appreciation of the
amazing and, at times, overwhelming generosity of so many of you
wonderful people! Thank you!!
For those of you that didn't quite get your contribution in on time for
this first List of Contributors - be it by check or by credit card - I
will be posting a followup List of Contributors #2 for 1999 in a few
weeks to make sure that I properly acknowledge each and everyone of the
generous List members. One last time, the addresses to make a contribution
are:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Finally, thank you all so much for your support this year both in terms
of the financial contribution but also in the form of the letters and
moral support during what can only be categorized as a very stressful and
unsettling time. And I think you know what I'm referring to... Your
support and encouragement meant more to me than you'll ever know. I felt
as if I had 2500 friends all behind me, and that's a *powerful* force!
Well done one and all! Thank you!
Best regards for the upcoming year.
Your Email List Administrator,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Builder #1763
=================== 1999 List of Contributors #1 ====================
Abell, John
Acker, Rob
Adams, Bob
Adamson, Larry
Ahamer, Karl
Albachten, Rudy III
Alcazar, Jesus
Allen, Brent
Allison, Steven
Ammeter, John
Amundsen, Blair
Anderson, Edward
Armstrong, Robert
Arnold, James
Aronson, David
Ashford, James
Ashton, Kent
Atkinson, Harold
Baggett, Robert
Baker, Gary
Baker, Ray
Baldwin, James
Barlow, Melvin
Barnes, Thomas
Barnes, Tom
Barnhart, Dave
Barrenechea, Godo
Battles, Brenton
BB Diversified Services, LTD
Bechtel, Amos
Bell, Bruce
Belted Air Power LTD.
Benhan, Dallas
Bennett, Peter
Besing, Paul
Bieber, Mike
Bilodeau, Paul
Bird, Carroll
Blanton, Stan
Bleier, Roger
Blomgren, Jack
Blum, Ronald
Boadright, Kyle
Boardman, Don III
Boatright, Kyle
Boatright, Robert
Bodie, Pete
Bonesteel, Wayne
Booze, Gregory
Borne, Charles
Bourgeois, Rion
Bourne, Larry
Bovan Pe, Vaso
Bowen, Larry
Bowen, Miles
Bower, Bob
Bowhay, Eustace
Bowman, Brian R
Boyd, Rodney
Branscomb, Warren
Bray, Garrett
Brian Lloyd
Brick, John
Bridgham, David
Brogley, Mike
Brooks, Chris
Brooks, John
Brott, Marvin
Brown, Kent
Brown, Scott
Buckwalter, David - Avionics Systems
Burlingame, Ralph
Burnham, Dave
Calhoun, Ronald
Calvert, Jerry
Cantrell, Ken
Capen, Ralph
Cardinal, Gregory
Carey, Christopher
Carr, David
Carter, Jerry
Carter, Ron
Casey, Jeremy
Chapple, Glen
Chesnut, Bruce
Chesnut, William
Christensen, Peter
Christie, William
Churchill, Frank
Ciolino, John
Clabots, Gerald
Clark, Howard
Clark, James
Clary, Buck
Clay, Dennis
Cloughley, Bill
Cole, Ed
Colontonio, Moe
Colucci, Anthoney
Conaway, James
Cook, David Sr.
Cooley, John
Copeland, Forrest
Corder, Michael
Corriveau, Grant
Cotter, Timothy
Cox, Carson
Croby, Harry
Crosley, Richard
Cullen, Chuck
Czinkota, Garnet
Dall, Richard
Daudt, Larry
Davidson, Jeff
Davis, Christopher
Davis, Jared
Davis, Steve - The Panel Pilot
Davis, William
Day, Robert
Deffner, David
Del Peso, Jose
Derrik, Chuck
Desmond, Richard
Devine, Steven
Devlin, John
Dewees, Ron
Dial, J.R.
Dominey, Clifford
Dorsey, Bob
Downing, Jeff
Dubroc, Tommy
Dudley, Richard
Duffy, Russell
Duncan, John
Dunlap, E.T.
Dziewiontkoski, Bob
Eagleston, Ron
Eagleston, Ronald
Eastburn, James
Elder, William
Elhai, Irv
Emrath, Marty
Ensing, Dale
Ervin, Thomas
Erwin, Chip - Czech Aircraft Works
Evans, Monte
Exstrom, Daniel
Faile, David
Farrar, Jeffrey
Farris, Paul
Fetzer, George
Fiedler, Mike
Filucci, Michael - Red Dragon Aviaion
Finch, K
Flaherty, Edward
Floyd, Joseph
Ford, David
Forrest, Gerald
Forsting, Robert
Fortner, Earl
Four Star Products
Frank, Dan
Franz, Carl
Frazier, Vince
Frederick, Mark
French, Edwin
Friedman, Frank
Froehlich, Carl
Fromm, John
Fry, John
Funk, Edwin Jr.
Funnell, Augustus
George, William
Gilbert, Mark
Giusti, Roberto
Glaser, Arthur
Glass, Roy
Glover, Ken
Gold, Andy - Builder's Book Store
Goldberg, Mark
Good, Chris
Gooding, Lawrence
Goolsby, Jim
Gott, Shelby
Goudreault, Jacques
Graham, James Jr.
Grant, Jordan
Griffin, Bill
Griffin, Randy
Groom, Larry
Guillosso, Alain
Hale, Michael
Hales, Sherman
Hall, Bob
Hall, Thomas
Hamer, Steven
Hamilton, Thom
Hamilton, William
Hand, Chris
Hansen, Ronald
Hargis, Merle
Harmon, John
Harper, Malcom
Harrill, Roy
Harris, John
Hart, Daniel
Harvey, Doug
Hassall, J.C.
Hastedt, Margaret
Hatch, Fletcher III
Hatcher, Clive
Hatfield, Cecil
Hays, Wes
Henderson, George
Henderson, Randall
Heritch, Ian
Herndon, Richard
Herren, Bill
Hevern, Jerry
Hiatt, Mark
Hiers, Craig
Hinch, Christopher
Hine, Joe
Hinkley, Curtis
Hinrichsen, James
Hodge, Jack
Hodgson, Bob
Hodson, Frank
Hoffman, Carl
Holcombe, Richard
Horton, Kevin
Hoshowski, Ken
Hrycauk, Dave
Hughes, Robert
Hulen, Fred
Hundley, Richard
Hurd, James
Hurlbut, Steve
Hutcheson, Ken
Ihlenburg, Fred
Ingram, Jim
Irace, Bill
Irwin, Eric
Isler, Jerry
Ivers, James
James, Larry
Janes, Bob
Janicki, Steven
Japundza, Bob
Jeens, Ken
Johannsson, Johann
Johnson, Jackie
Johnson, Stephen
Jones, Bryan
Jones, Rob
Jones, Russ
Jonker, Bill
Jordan, Thomas
Jory, Rick
Kampthorne, Hal
Kayner, Dennis
Keithley, Rick
King, Da Ve
Kirby, Dennis
Kirby, Graham
Kirtland, Charles
Kitz, John
Knezacek, Dan
Knievel, Gerald
Knoll, Bruce
Kosta, Michael
Kowalski, Ed
Krueger, Dan
Krueger, Scott
Kuss, Charlie
Laczko, Frank Sr.
Lamb, Richard
Lane, Kevin
Lassen, Finn
Laurence, Peter
Laverty, Mike
Lawson, John
Leaf, Dave
Lee, John
Lee, Ric
LeGare, Garry
Leggette, Len
Leonard, William
Lerohl, Gaylen
Lervold, Randy
Lewis, Terry
Lewis, Tim
Ligon, Howard
Lind, Laird
Linebaugh, Jeffrey
Loeber, Wayne
Ludeman, Bruce
Lutes, Rick
Mac Donald, Lawrence
MacKay, Alex
Malczynski, Francis
Mandell, Tom
Marino, Anthony
Marion, Chris
Markert, Michael
Marshall, Robert
Martin, Tom
Maxson, Phil
Mazatuad, Mme Hyun Sook
McElhoe, Bruce
McFarlane, Lloyd
McGee, Michael
McHarry, Joe
McHenry, Tedd
McKibben, Gerald
McNamara, Don
Melder, Frank
Melia, Tom
Metzger, Stephen
Meyers, John
Miller, Jim & Dondi - Aircraft Technical Support
Mitchell, Duane
Moen, Craig
Mojzisik, Allan
Molzen, Jason
Mondy, Malia
Moore, Thomas
Moore, Warren
Morelli, Bill
Morelli, William
Morris, Daniel III
Morrison, Mark
Morrow, Dan
Moulin, Roger
Munn, Mike
Murphy, Ray Jr.
Neal, Danny
Nellis, Michael
Nelson, James
Nelson, Jim
Newell, Alan
Nguyen, Thomas
Nice, James
Nicely, Vincent
Norris, Rob
Nowakowski, Donald
Noyer, Robert
Nuckolls, Robert
Olendorf, Scott
Olson, Larry
Olson, Tom
Orear, Jeffrey
Owens, Laird
Palinkas, Gary
Pardue, Larry
Paulson, Craig
Peck, Bill & Kathy
Peer, Michael - Jem Aviation
Peryk, Dennis
Peternel, Stanley
Petersen, Eric
Petersen, Paul
Peterson, Alex
Pflanzer, Randy
Phillips, Mark
Pickrell, Jim
Pike, Richard
Pinneo, George
Pittenger, Dick
Plathey, Claude
Point, Jeff
Polstra, Philip
Porter, Richard
Porter, Robert
Potter, Mark
Pretzsch, Robert
Ragsdale, Bill
Randolph, George
Ransom, Ben
Rathbun, Richard
Reeck, Jay
Reed, Derek
Reed, Frank
Reisdorfer, Mark
Reynolds, Richard
Richardson, Ray - Powersport Aviation Inc.
Riedlinger, Paul
Riley, Stuart
Roach, Brian
Rodgers, Brian
Rosales, Paul
Rowbotham, Charles
Rowles, Les
Rozendaal, Doug
Rutherford, Ted
Sa, Carlos
Sager, Jim
Sailer, Martin
SanClemente, Andrew
Sapp, Doug
Sargent, Tom
Sax, Samuel
Schemmel, Grant
Schippers, John
Schmitt, Clayton
Schneeflock, Robert
Schrimmer, Mark
Schwarz, Guillermo
Selby, Jim - JKL Aviation Sales
Seward, Douglas
Shackleford, Howard
Shafer, Jim
Shank, Bill
Sheets, Douglas
Shenk, Doug
Shepherd, Dallas
Shettel, Maurice
Shipley, Walter
Sigmon, Harvey
Silverstein, Chuck
Sipp, Dick
Slaughter, Mike
Small, Thomas
Smith, Clayton
Smith, Edmund
Smith, Philip
Smith, Shelby
Smithey, Lloyd
Snyder, David
Solecki, John
Sparks, Timothy
Stafford, David
Staub, Skip
Steer, Bill
Stobbe, Bruce
Stoffers, Larry
Stone, James
Strandjord, Eric
Swaney, Mark
Tauch, Eric
Tauchen, Bryan
Taylor, Tod
Team Rocket
Thayer, George
Therrien, Michel
Thistelthwaite, Geoffrey
Thoman, Daniel
Thomas, Lee
Thomas, Tim
Thompson, Michael
Todd, John
Tompkins, Jeff
Tower, John
True, George
Tucker, Harold
Tuton, Beauford
Tyrrel, Charles
Upshur, Bill
Uribe, Guillermo
Uribe, Gullermo
Utterback, Thomas
Van Der Sanden, Gert
Vandervort, Ronald
VanGrunsven, Stanley
Varnes, William
Volum, Peter
Von Ruden, Dennis
VonLindern, Paul
Vosberg, Roy
Waligroski, Gregg
Walker, Tommy
Walrath, Howard
Ward, Ed
Warren, John
Washburn, Oliver
Watson, Dennis
Watson, Terrence
Watson, William
Webb, Randol
Weber, Ed
Weber, Edward
Weller, Michael
Wendel, Jim
Wentzell, David
Werner, Russ
Werner, Russell
Westridge, David
Whelan, Thomas
Whiler, Douglas
Whitehead, Arthur
Wiesel, Dan
Wigney, John
Williams, Jimmy
Williams, Keith
Williams, Lawrence
Willig, Louis
Wills, Mike
Wilson, Billy
Wittman, James
Wood, Denton
Wood, John
Wood, Mark
Worstell, Glen
Worthington, Victor
Wotring, Dale
Wymer, Gerald
Young, Charles
Young, Rollin
Youngblood, Barry
Zeidman, Richard
Zigaitis, Kestutis
Zinkham, Ralph
Zwart, Frank
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Subject: | Navaid install etc. |
RV-8ers,
Help! I'm at the point of installing all the stuff that goes under the pilot
butt... Navaid servo, com & xpndr antennas, wing wiring multiconnectors
through the side, etc. The plan for fitting all of this stuff in must
clearly be a coordinated one considering how they all fit together. Of
course future accessibility must be kept in mind with the front part of the
floor removeable, but the rear portions pop-riveted down. So, I have the
following questions for all you RV-8 guys ahead of me...
1. Does anyone have any photos of how they mounted the Navaid servo and
connected it to the W807?
2. Have you put doublers above your antennas, and if so what size?
3. Where did you penetrate the main spar for the antenna leads (and other
electrical stuff)?
4. Is there such a thing as a right angle BNC connector for the two antennas
so as to possibly fit below the Navaid servo?
Any experience, and especially photos, would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, just took the wings back off
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 12/05/99 |
We used nut plates and 8/32 screws on all our floor panels instead of pop rivets...
Larry xlax Lovisone
RV8 N248PL kit #24
RV8 weak wing theory http://rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | TAPPING SCREW HOLES |
IN THE PROCESS OF MOUNTING MY RADIO STACK TRAYS AND TAPPING THE 26 SCREW
HOLES I NEEDED, I FOUND AN EASIER WAY TO DO IT. INSTEAD OF USING THE
T-HANDLE WITH THE TAP, ( I BROKE OFF TWO TAPS LEARNING THIS, 632'S) I PUT THE
TAP IN MY 18V CORDLESS DRILL, SET THE TORGUE AT THE LOWEST SETTING AND THEN
EFFORTLESSLY SCREWED THE TAP IN AND OUT UNTIL THE HOLE WAS COMPLETE. I DID
NOT BREAK ANY MORE TAPS AND CUT THE TIME IN HALF. IT'S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO
GET A BROKEN TAP OUT AND EASIER TO JUST START WITH A NEW PIECE. YOU WON'T
NEED TO MAKE A NEW PIECE IF YOU USE THIS METHOD.
RV80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Alternate Oil to Cooler Port |
Clay,
I called Lycoming about this as my Lycoming Overhauled
engine came from the factory with a AN-6 nipple attached to this port.
The Lycoming Rep said that " this is an alternate port and would like me
to use the primary port instead," I'm using AN -8 fittings anyway.
Joe
----------
> From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port
> Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:38 AM
>
>
> Hi folks,
> It's finally time to connect the oil lines to/from the oil cooler.
> Figure 7-4 of the Textron Lycoming Operator's Manual shows the 'oil to
> cooler' port for the 0-360-A series. This port is between the
magnetos
> in a tough place to get at. Figure 7-3 shows the alternate 'oil to
> cooler' port location.
>
> I'm not familiar with the engine's internal oil plumbing. Will I get
> the same cooling effect by using the alternate 'oil to cooler'
> location? Is there a significant difference between the effectiveness
> of the primary and alternate 'oil to cooler' ports?
>
> I appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Subject: | Sam James wheel pants |
Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on
RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out?
My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Sam James wheel pants |
Why are SJ wheelpants better than Van's?
Joe
(front windshield)
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on
> RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out?
> My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior
> www.pacifier.com/~randyl
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Engine Choice... |
Paul,
I bought a Overhauled O-360 A1A from Lycoming. The warranty
doesn't start until I start my engine, just like Bart's. I know this
for a fact. I believe it is the same for the new engines also.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few static source
instruments as possible.
A follow up question would be, what's available in the class cockpit category to
replace the standard instrument cluster?
I will of course be going with the Vision Microsystems for my engine monitoring
needs but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of altimeter,
directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb, and attitude gyro.
- Jim
RV-8A QB ( N89JA - reserved )
empennage almost done...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
Check the EFIS unit on this web page. It includes all engine instruments
as well.
Its all electronic and requires no vacuum system. Also has a slave compass
system. It is what is going into my Rocket kit when it arrives in June.
http://www.archangel.com/efis.htm
The base web site address has all the details on other products they have
as well as pricing.
www.archangel.com
Scot
>
>
>Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
>
>I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few static source
>instruments as possible.
>
>A follow up question would be, what's available in the class cockpit
>category to
>replace the standard instrument cluster?
>
>I will of course be going with the Vision Microsystems for my engine
monitoring
>needs but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of altimeter,
>directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb, and attitude gyro.
>
>- Jim
>RV-8A QB ( N89JA - reserved )
>empennage almost done...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
> Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
The minimum required instrumentation can be found by looking at FAR 91.205,
which reads in part:
(b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Airspeed indicator.
(2) Altimeter.
(3) Magnetic direction indicator.
(4) Tachometer for each engine.
(5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
(6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
(7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
(8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
(9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
(10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
landing gear.
While the FAR states that this is for Standard Category aircraft, I doubt an
airworthiness inspector would allow less than this minimum list.
> I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few
> static source instruments as possible.
If you're building a VFR airplane, there's really no reason to have any
vacuum instruments at all. The minimum pitot-static insturments would be
the altimeter and airspeed indicator. No other pitot-static instruments are
required.
> ....but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of
> altimeter, directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb,
> and attitude gyro.
I'm not sure there are electronic replacements for the altimeter and
airspeed indicator that would pass muster with the Feds. There may be
suplimental electronic instruments for these functions, but I'm pretty sure
they're going to require you to have the "old fashioned" ones in there too.
Someone else might have more info on this. All the other instruments you
mention would only be necessary if you're going to equip the airplane for
IFR flying, which it appears you're trying to avoid.
Joe Norris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
>--> RV-List message posted by: "A. W. Triff"
>
>>I will use the Archangel EFIS. I will have a backup Altimeter and Airspeed
>>indicator. The S-Tec autopilot I am using is incorporated in a Turn
>>Coordinator so these 3 three instruments will be my partial panel IFR
>>backup cluster.
>>
>
>Scott,
>
>I'm interested in finding out how much research you've done on the glass
>cockpit. Have you been quoted a price yet from Archangel? Yours sounds
>like exactly what I want to do with my Rocket. Are you planning on being
>IFR cert?
>
>Thanks for the info!
>
>Regards,
>Wes Triff
>tekrep(at)wans.net
>RV-8 tail/F-1 Rocket #0014
>Atlanta
I do plan to IFR certify the airplane and fly it in light IFR.
I have collected marketing info and have a price of approx. $25,000 for a
complete system, but I have received recent info about some disgruntled
folks who have purchased the system. I just got off the phone with a guy
named James Rahm. He is a partner in a company in Florida that builds very
high horsepower Chevy V-8's for airplanes. He races his Lancair IVP and
wins a lot to demonstrate his engine company's performance capabilities.
He installed the Archangel system 4 years ago and it has never worked. He
has had it back to the factory 20 times and has had terrible support. He
is their flagship customer and the support was still terrible. After 4
years he finally gave up and asked them to take the system back and return
his money. They refused so now he takes every chance to tell his story of
being stranded in various strange towns 1,000 miles from home, having to
pull the system out of the airplane and shipping it to Archangel and
waiting 3 days in a hotel for them to send it back so he could reinstall it
and get home. That happened 4 times. In the mean time, he is out $20,000
on a system that he doesn't have the heart to sell to anyone else.
Anyway, now for the good news. He has since installed the Sierra Flight
Systems unit and has only fabulous things to say about it. I have started
to gather info on their system and am very impressed. Check it out at
www.sierraflightsystems.com. Poke around in there and download their demo.
It is incredible!!! The price is a bit higher at $29,900 but the features
are significantly better with the 3D mapping and vision system and the
Velocity Vector projection system. It is true "Hiway in the Sky"
representation. This stuff is new and should be carefully considered. You
should definitely plan on some key backup analog instruments to get you on
the ground in IFR in case the system fails. But just to lend some more
credibility, they are persuing FAA certification on this system to be used
in certified aircraft with the same software, hardware and features. The
testing involved to get this certification makes me feel more confident in
the product. Although, Archangel is about to get a similar certification
for another one of their products. So maybe certification isn't all that
confidence building. Let me know if you find out more than what I've told
you here.
What is the progress of your Rocket? My fast-build arrives in June and I
anticipate a 1.5 year build time.
Scot
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
A little additional research in the FARs also uncovered a requirement FAR
135.159 for a gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator for VFR night flight.
It looks like there are some pretty good glass cockpit ( affordable )
alternatives to a vacuum system ( from companies like RMI, Navaid, and Vision
Micro Systems to name a few ), with plenty of room left over for pitot-static
backups of critical systems. Some even have RS-232 outputs so that computer
geeks like me still have some room for experimentation.
Thanks to all for the good feedback,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Empennage
N89JA (reserved )
"Joe Norris" on 12/17/99 02:57:00 PM
Please respond to rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit
> Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
The minimum required instrumentation can be found by looking at FAR 91.205,
which reads in part:
(b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Airspeed indicator.
(2) Altimeter.
(3) Magnetic direction indicator.
(4) Tachometer for each engine.
(5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
(6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
(7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
(8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
(9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
(10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
landing gear.
While the FAR states that this is for Standard Category aircraft, I doubt an
airworthiness inspector would allow less than this minimum list.
> I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few
> static source instruments as possible.
If you're building a VFR airplane, there's really no reason to have any
vacuum instruments at all. The minimum pitot-static insturments would be
the altimeter and airspeed indicator. No other pitot-static instruments are
required.
> ....but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of
> altimeter, directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb,
> and attitude gyro.
I'm not sure there are electronic replacements for the altimeter and
airspeed indicator that would pass muster with the Feds. There may be
suplimental electronic instruments for these functions, but I'm pretty sure
they're going to require you to have the "old fashioned" ones in there too.
Someone else might have more info on this. All the other instruments you
mention would only be necessary if you're going to equip the airplane for
IFR flying, which it appears you're trying to avoid.
Joe Norris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
> A little additional research in the FARs also uncovered a requirement FAR
> 135.159 for a gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator for VFR night flight.
As this is a part 135 regulation, it only applies to Part 135 charter
operations. Our RV-8s wouldn't be involved in this, so this "requirement"
won't apply to us. Part 91 ops, which includes the flying done in homebuilt
aircraft, has no such requirement.
Joe Norris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Bill,
Congratulations! You still have to be on cloud 9. I too am
looking forward to more of your experiences and numbers. Man do I envy
you. It certainly is a real accomplishment. This kind of post makes me
want to finish even faster! Congratulations again. I hope some day we
can fly together.
Joe
#80125 (I know I can't beat Brian Denk into the air, but maybe I have a
shot at Mike Robertson!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lawrence08(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 12/25/99 |
Please delete me from this RV8 list digest. Thanks--Jim Lawrence
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: LANDING LIGHTS FLASHER |
COULD SOMEONE HELP ME WITH A WIRING DIAGRAM AND THE FLASHER PART NUMBER
(WHERE DO I BUY IT) SO I CAN INSTALL FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS.
THANKS!! ED KOWALSKI 80127
SALNED71(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "terje.kobro(at)platou.com |
by fep1.mta.online.no (InterMail v4.01.01.07 201-229-111-110)
with ESMTP id" <20000103125811.CUTZ547.fep1(at)exchange.platou.com>
Subject: | Re: LANDING LIGHTS FLASHER |
ed - do yu mind copying me?? need same
regards terje kobro-norway
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SALNED71(at)aol.com [mailto:SALNED71(at)aol.com]
> Sent: 3. januar 2000 12:45
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: LANDING LIGHTS FLASHER
>
>
>
> COULD SOMEONE HELP ME WITH A WIRING DIAGRAM AND THE FLASHER
> PART NUMBER
> (WHERE DO I BUY IT) SO I CAN INSTALL FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS.
>
> THANKS!! ED KOWALSKI 80127
> SALNED71(at)AOL.COM
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Drilling F-843 lower longeron - RV-8 |
Folks, I'm baffled. I'm ready to drill the F-843 lower longeron on
my RV-8. I can't figure out what the lateral position of the aft end
should be. The longeron is 0.125 thick. Butting up to the aft end
of it, we find the F-804C, 0.040 thick, and the F-804H, 0.063 thick,
for a total thickness of 0.103. The F-845 gusset goes behind the
whole works. If I position the F-843 so the inside face is flush
with the inside of the F-804C, the outside edge will make a step.
This looks like it would screw up the fit of the skins. If I make
the outside face of the F-843 flush with the F-804H, the F-845 gusset
will not fit tight against the F-804C.
I've looked over the plans, but I can't find a good detail of this
area. What am I missing? Am I supposed to put a shim on the inside,
between the F-804C and the F-845 gusset?
I had hoped to drill the F-822 and F-820 skins tonight, but I guess
I'll stop drilling and deburr a bunch of stuff until I figure this
out. :-(
Thanks for your wisdom,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | GALL'S WIG-WAG FLASHER |
CAN THE FLASHER BE MOUNTED CLOSE TO THE RADIO STACK OR WILL THIS CAUSE
INTERFERANCE. OR SHOULD IT BE MOUNTED IN THE FUSELAGE OR WING.
THANKS
ED...80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | SENCO CO DETECTOR |
WHERE CAN THE SENCO CO DETECTOR BE LOOKED AT AND PURCHASED?
ED...80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | 1999 List of Contributors #2! |
Dear Listers,
Below is the final List of Contributors for 1999 as promised. Again, I
would like to thank everyone that made a generous contribution in 1999
to support the continued operation of these email Lists. Your support
directly makes the quality and quantity of this service possible.
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
EMail List Administrator
RV-4 Builder, #1763 - N442RV
=================== 1999 List of Contributors #2 ====================
Adamson, Arden
Allender, Patrick
Anonymous from MN
Asher, M.E.
Baxter, Rob
Bell, Doug
Bendure, Ryan
Bergh, David
Berrie, Robert
Blake, J.I.
Boucher, Michel
Bragg, Medford
Briegleb, Ross
Brietigam, Charles
Broomell, Glenn
Brusilow, Michael
Chatham, Robert
Clary, Buck
Coats, Lonnie
Cook, Craig - Golf Instruments Co.
Cooper, James
Cribb, William Jr.
Crosby, Harry
Dane, Bill Von
Dziewiontkoski, Bob
Ellenberger, Mike
Embree, Roger
Faatz, Mitch
Fasching, John
Gibbons, Robert
Glauser, David
Gold, Andy -Builder's Bookstore 10%
Gregory, Steve
Grenier, Raymond
Guarino, Michael
H., Harold - E.P.M.AV Corp
Hale, Brian
Hunt, Wallace
Johnston, Leroy
Jordon, Don
Killion, Clay
Klingmuller, Dr. L.M.
Magaw, David
Mains, Ralph
Maltby, Michael
Martin, Cliff - Martin Metal Fab
Mazataud, Hyun Sook
McBride, Duncan
McDonald, James
Mendenhall, Elbie - E.M Aviation
Mitchell, Duane
Morley, Harold
Peck, Phil
Pessel, Garnett
Rodebush, James
Ross, Jonathan
Schmidt, John
Scully, William
Smith, Steven
Spence, Stephen
Triff, Wes
Wagoner, Richard
Weaver, Brian
Wiegenstein, John
Wiley, Robert
Wilson, Donald
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | How to run out of longeron stock |
Hi there,
I recently had a frustrating experience that I will share in the hope
that it will save someone else.
I am drilling the aft fuselage side skins on my RV-8, and it was time
to fit the lower and mid aft longerons (F-888 & F-889). Well, I
discovered that while I had protected the pieces for the long, lower
F-889 longerons, I had managed to leave myself short one piece for
the mid aft F-888 longerons. I had lots of stock, but only one piece
was long enough. The second piece that I thought I had turned out to
be 0.125 instead of 0.063. Van sent me the right lengths, I just
messed up. I think the error was made when cutting the pieces for
the angles that mount the tie downs in the wing.
So, if you've got the wing kit, mark several pieces of 3/4 x 3/4 x
0.063 angle. For the RV-8 fuselage, you will need two pieces 105"
long, and two pieces 57" long.
Fortunately another local builder has his fuselage kit, but he is
several months behind me, so he was kind enough to loan me some
angle. We discovered that he also managed to cut a critical piece,
and he would not have had enough for the second 57" piece either.
Another builder has just ordered his RV-3 wing and fuselage kits, so
I will get some more angle sent in his kit.
I also discovered another creative way to short yourself. Apparently
there are people thick enough to determine the length of the mid aft
longeron by measuring from the F-807 to the F-809 bulkheads. Well,
if you aren't careful to make sure the F-809 is vertical, you could
end up with a piece 1/2 inch too short. Arrgh!! A better way to
measure is to measure against the pre-punched F-824 skin, or just
trust me that 57 inches will leave you with a little bit of extra to
trim off later.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Confusion Over "List of Contributors"... |
Hi Listers,
I'm really sorry for the confusion over the most recent posting of the
List of Contributors #2. List #2 contained only the contributor names
*since* the List #1 was posted. So, if you weren't on List #2, you were
likely on List #1. Below are URLs to each of the LOC #x postings.
Again, sorry for the confusion. I should have made it more clear in
the verbiage.
Thanks to everyone,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
============================= LOC #1 and #2 ================================
List of Contributors #1 - 1999
------------------------------
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
List of Contributors #2 - 1999
------------------------------
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
============================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Re: (Whoops) Confusion Over "List of Contributors"... |
>
>Okay, here are the *real* URLs. Sorry...
>
>
>Matt Dralle
>Email List Admin.
>
>
>============================= LOC #1 and #2 ================================
>
>
> List of Contributors #1 - 1999
> ------------------------------
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_
>of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
>
>
> List of Contributors #2 - 1999
> ------------------------------
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=53146?KEYS=list_
>of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
>
>
>============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Re: (No, Really - Here are the URLs) Confusion Over "List of |
Contributors"...
Geeze, I can't seem to type today. Here are the *real*, *REAL* URLs.
Sorry for so many posts... Ack
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
============================= LOC #1 and #2 ================================
List of Contributors #1 - 1999
------------------------------
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
List of Contributors #2 - 1999
------------------------------
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=53146?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
============================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Northwest Connection" <fly737(at)earthlink.net> |
I was wondering if anyone could provide me with some recommendations on
where I can get a custom canopy made to order -- somewhere in the Northwest
would be best. Thanks.
Ted Burke
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 F-826, 827 & 842 gotcha |
Hi guys and gals,
I'm drilling the skins to my RV-8 fuselage, and had a minor gotcha
tonight. Not a real big deal, but I sure wish I could do it all over
again, knowing what I know now.
I drilled the F-826 & F-827 bottom center skins. They cleco to the
F-804 at the front, and then just sit on top of the seat ribs until
you drill and cleco them. So far so good (so I thought). Then I
grabbed the F-842 aft bottom skin, and slipped it under the F-826 &
F-827. It has match holes that are supposed to match up with holes
at the aft end of the F-826 & F-827. Well, I quickly discovered that
I couldn't match up with both the F-826 & F-827 at the same time. It
turns out that there is enough slop in the holes clecoed at the front
of the F-826 & F-827 to let the aft ends move slightly. I ended up
with the aft ends of the F-826 & 827 about 3/32 inch too close
together, i.e. the holes that should match up with the F-842 were
3/32 too close together.
How do you prevent this from happening? Well, I would do two things
differently if I could do it all over again. First, when drilling
the F-822 (or F-890 for the -8A), I wouldn't drill out the holes that
hold it to the F-804. Those are the holes that you cleco the F-826 &
827 to, so you will get a tighter fit if they are not drilled out
yet. You have to drill them again when fitting the F-826 & 827
anyway, so there is no point in doing them when fitting the F-822.
Second, when drilling the F-826 & 827, I would consider clecoing them
to the F-804, and then putting the F-842 in place, clecoing the match
holes in it to the F-826 & 827. Then I would drill the center hole
at the aft edge of the F-826 & F-827 to lock them together. That way
you have a reference to make sure that the match holes on the aft
edges of the F-826 & 827 are right distance apart when fitting the
F-842.
Anyway, it wasn't a big disaster. I drilled a couple of extra holes
to compensate for the figure 8 ones I've got now. It is on the
bottom of the fuselage, and if I catch any of you guys crawling under
there to take a look I might accidentally step on your hand to
distract you :-)
I think I will send a note to Van's. They could solve the hole
problem by putting a hole at the aft end of the F-827 to match up
with the line of holes down the inboard edge of the F-826. Failing
that, the Construction Manual should not tell you to drill the aft
edge of the F-822 to the F-804 too early.
Still having fun,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LaurenMWilliams(at)webtv.net (Lauren Williams) |
Subject: | Re: Custom Canopies |
Isn't Gee Bee Canopies in the Northwest somewhere?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Custom Canopies |
Ted,
The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is called Foxlite)
will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I had Van's delete
my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from Foxlite instead. The
canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
Northwest Connection wrote:
>
> I was wondering if anyone could provide me with some recommendations on
> where I can get a custom canopy made to order -- somewhere in the Northwest
> would be best. Thanks.
>
> Ted Burke
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Tell us more. Don't Van's canopies have a slight tint to them? Is yours
REALLY dark? Can you still fly at night? How much more did you pay?
Thanks,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe
> Czachorowski
> Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 1:01 PM
> Ted,
>
> The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is
> called Foxlite)
> will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I
> had Van's delete
> my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from
> Foxlite instead. The
> canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it.
>
> Joe
> RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Peter Melby <pmelby(at)midwestinfo.com> |
Subject: | anodize vs alodine/prime |
I'm considering havine the internal components of my wing anodized.
Priming the entire lot seems too daunting a task (firing up the paint
booth sucks the heat out of my shop in short order). Are there any
precautions I should take?
Peter J. Melby
pmelby(at)midwestinfor.com
RV8 wings in work
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Custom Canopies |
Larry,
The canopy that comes in Van's finish kit is tinted, slightly.
After flying a bubbled canopy fighter in the Air National Guard, I know how
hot it will get and wanted some extra tint. The nice people at Foxlite (in
Ohio) sent me some free samples of 3 darker tint's. The one that they
recommend (and the one that I selected) is the next darker tint. They said
it is the darkest tint that they put on Certified Aircraft. The tint # is
2514. It is certified for night flight. The extra cost was $53 dollars
(1998 dollars). All money transactions are handled through Van's but they
drop ship the canopy directly from the factory to your doorstep.
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> Tell us more. Don't Van's canopies have a slight tint to them? Is yours
> REALLY dark? Can you still fly at night? How much more did you pay?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 tanks
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe
> > Czachorowski
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 1:01 PM
> > Ted,
> >
> > The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is
> > called Foxlite)
> > will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I
> > had Van's delete
> > my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from
> > Foxlite instead. The
> > canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it.
> >
> > Joe
> > RV-8 # 80125
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: anodize vs alodine/prime |
Precautions - Be prepared to empty your wallet. Anodizing is typically
double the cost of professional alodining.
Most shops that anodize, can also alodine. Which unless you're really
paranoid, would probably suffice for internal corrosion protection.
Jeff.
On Wed, 19 Jan 2000, Peter Melby wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Peter Melby
>
> I'm considering havine the internal components of my wing anodized.
> Priming the entire lot seems too daunting a task (firing up the paint
> booth sucks the heat out of my shop in short order). Are there any
> precautions I should take?
>
> Peter J. Melby
> pmelby(at)midwestinfor.com
> RV8 wings in work
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Steen Labs Throttle Quadrant |
From: | <psmith(at)marin.org> |
Hi Everyone:
Has anyone used the Steen Aero Labs throttle quadrants in their RV?
Specifically, I'd like to fit their three lever quadrant in my RV 8. Rough
measurements indicate that it may fit, but there may be issues that I'm
unaware of.
Thanks,
Phil
Philip D. Smith
RV 8QB, 80691
Fairfax, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kevin Horton Updates |
Kevin:
Thank you so much for taking the time to continually give updates on your
construction. I trail you in your progress by mere days (putting 8A fuselage
in the jig) and have used your comments to help in my construction.
I love this list !!!
Len
RV-8A
Putting fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Mounting |
Guys,
Thought I would pass along a potential problem when mounting your RV-8
canopy. Well, not really the canopy, but the front windscreen. I mounted the
front windscreen according to the instructions, glassed it up, and came back the
next morning to check my work. As I looked at it much closer, I found that the
front windscreen did not aerodynamically fair into the canopy near the bottom
edges of the canopy/windscreen bow. It had a cavity too large to fill with
microballons. It just didn't look right. It seemed to me that the front
windscreen needed shims between the windscreen and the roll-over bar near the
bottom to make a clean aerodynamic shape. I stripped the fiberglass off and redid
the front windscreen over with shims. Much better now! I just wish I caught this
the first time. Hope this helps someone.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Mounting |
Fellow Listers:
I would just like to recommend Sacramento Sky Ranch for any engine hoses
that you may need. I recently ordered some pretty high-tech noses from them
(Stratoflex Teflon with integral firesleeves and stainless steel fittings).
I goofed in my measurements and found that one of these was 3/4" too long.
I ordered another the correct length and returned the "bad" one not really
expecting much, if any, credit since the fittings are crimped and not
reusable. Just got a credit in the mail for the full amount. Great folks
and beautiful, FAA certified and tested hoses.
Doug
============
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
Doug,
I second the motion! I too bought the very same hoses from them and
your
are right, they are very nice people and very helpful. The hoses are not cheap,
but I
now have certified pressure tested hoses to go along with my certified, cell tested,
certified engine. One less thing to worry about.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | C/Sinking for #8 screws, RV-8 LG Box |
Hi guys,
I have been studiously studying the plans and instructions, trying to
make sure I got the tools, etc I needed well in advance of each
construction phase. Well, I missed the #8 countersink for the bunch
of screws in the RV-8 landing gear boxes. For the moment, I have
only drilled the holes #30, so I am thinking about using a big (1/2
inch body) #30 piloted countersink I've got to countersink the
underlying longerons, etc. Then I would put the outer skin back on,
and final drill for the #8 screws, and then dimple the skin. Of
course I will try this out on some scrap first. Does this sound like
it might work, or am I wasting my time (and precious scrap) to even
try?
I'm not worried about the cost of the C/S, but rather the time - it
takes quite a while to get stuff up here to Canada, and I don't think
I have any hope of finding a #8 piloted C/S locally. I should be in
Wichita on Wednesday next week, so I could get Avery to ship one to a
friend there, but it doesn't seem likely that it would get to Wichita
by Tuesday, so he could bring it to work on Wednesday. I could
probably find one at the Boeing surplus place in Wichita, as they had
all kinds of new looking countersinks in various sizes last time I
was there, but I don't think I'll be able to fit that into the
schedule.
Are there any other C/Sinks, or other oddball tools I should order
now to make sure I don't get stuck again on the RV-8?
Oh well, I've got lots of other stuff I can work on, if I have to
stop for this.
Thanks for your advice,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 IO-360 cowl with O-360/Airflow Perf FI |
I am getting to the stage of my RV-8 project where I need to make
some engine decisions, and make a phone call to Bart Lalonde.
I love the look of the latest RV-8 cowl for the IO-360, with the air
induction taken from the front of the left cooling inlet. But, I'm
not sure I am going to have an IO-360A for price and weight reasons.
I am toying with the thought of an O-360 with an Airflow Performance
fuel injection unit added, which would sort of make it an IO-360B. I
know the IO-360A and the O-360A are very different engines. Is there
a sump available for the O-360A that would put the Airflow
Performance FI unit in the right place to mate up with Van's intake
"snake" for the IO-360, without having to do any radical fibreglas
surgery?
If anyone out there has made this work, please give me details -
engine model, any engine parts you had to change or modify, mods to
Van's air induction "snake", etc. Would you do it again?
If someone else has looked at this idea, and decided it is not
possible, I would also like to hear from you.
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Subject: | Panel page updated |
Guys,
I made some progress on my panel this weekend and updated my site. If you're
interested you can check it out at...
http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgPanel.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, battle with canopy skirt almost won
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
"
\"Randy Griffin\"" ,
"Jeff Jasinsky"
Subject: | Canopy skirt solution |
Fellow 8ers,
I have now won the war with my canopy skirt. With some help from a local
guru I finally got it on straight. The procedure was to cut it in the back,
get the fwd holes drilled, pull the back up to get the rear sides tucked in,
then drill the back. Of course then the fitting/sanding process starts. I
then glassed the rear back together, filled the gap between the skirt and
the plexi that was in the back area, and thought I was done.
Last weekend I went to our local chapter fly-in breakfast and looked at four
other RV-8 skirts and how they fit in the rear around the track. Didn't like
any of them, and all builders who have flown report this is a great source
of wind getting into the cockpit. So I went back and did MORE fiberglassing
and sanding, but I am glad I did. I've added pics of the final result to my
canopy page at http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgCanopy.htm.
This should fit closely enough that I will only need a little UHMW tape on
the inside edge of the skirt and no foam or anything around the track. Check
it out and see what you think.
Many thanks to those who have helped with this especially problematic phase
(at least for me) including Jon Ross, Brian Denk, and Scott McDaniels.
I can hardly wait for the cowling (yea, right!)
Randy Lervold
#80500, about to shoot the interior
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing, VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
Subject: | Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
RV-8 Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem... |
Listers,
I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's
Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem
*ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are
*not* affected by the issue. Users of Internet Explorer should
use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be
developed.
IMPORTANT:
If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the
following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of
the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly
received and you should resubmit the request using the Netscape
Browser, or wait until a solution for the problem with Internet Explorer
is completed. The Lists affected by the Internet Explorer issue are:
RVCanada-List
RVEurope-List
Skymaster-List
SmithMini-List
Sonerai-List
Tailwind-List
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I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution
to this problem.
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Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem..." (Feb 15, 10:19am)
Subject: | Re: Web Subscription Page Operation for Internet Explorer Restored... |
Dear Listers,
I have rewritten the web page and CGI code for processing List
Subscription Requests to now be more compatible with command line
limitations of Microsoft's Internet Explorer and some very
old versions of Netscape. The page seems to be working fine
now on whatever browser I try. Please feel free to resume
your normal List Subscription habits.
The URL is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
>--------------
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's
>Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at
>http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem
>*ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are
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>use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be
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>
>IMPORTANT:
>
>If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the
>following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of
>the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly
>received and you should resubmit the request using the Netscape
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>is completed. The Lists affected by the Internet Explorer issue are:
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>Please note that the Netscape Browser *IS NOT* affected by this problem
>and all lists can be subscribed to and unsubscribed from without a
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>I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution
>to this problem.
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>Sorry for the inconvenience,
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>Matronics Email List Admin.
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 Landing gear box notes |
Listers,
I have finished fabricating and drilling the landing gear boxes on my
RV-8, and have put together some notes for future builders. Thanks
to the earlier builders who posted their tales of woe, I was able to
avoid most of the pitfalls. I've put together a page on my web site
that has all my notes:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/fuselage/f06.html
The gotcha's are near the end of the page. I would appreciate
comments from previous builders - are there any gotcha's I missed, or
any errors in the notes, or parts that could be more clearly worded?
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
HAS ANYONE PLUMBED HEAT TO THE REAR SEAT AREA YET?
IF SO, WHERE DID YOU RUN THE TUBING, AND WHAT SIZE TUBING DID YOU USE?
THANKS FOR THE INPUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ED...............80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Graham <gary(at)colonialmortgage.net> |
Subject: | S-Tec Auto Pilot Install |
Has anyone any experience installing an S-Tec System 30 autopilot in an RV-8?
If you have let me know how and where you mounted the roll and pitch servos.
Thanks
Gary Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Builders:
Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time.
Festus,MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Optional rear seat rudder pedals are very crud... I'm designing a new and
improved rear rudder pedals... Larry
Chris Santschi wrote:
>
> Builders:
>
> Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
>
> Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time.
> Festus,MO.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Hi Chris,
I did, no problem at all. It took me four hours. I modidfied the pedals itself
with a rubber surface. The rest remained the same. Plans and parts are good, as
usual. Until today the aeroplane is not yet airborne, so we can't give any
comment regarding handling in flight.
Sincerely
Chris Santschi schrieb:
>
> Builders:
>
> Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
>
> Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time.
> Festus,MO.
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Chris--
I might as well give you the other side of the coin...
I ordered the rear seat rudder pedals and have decided not to install them. I
think they look kinda hokey, and my wife has long legs (whew! I almost said "big
feet"!) and wants to stretch them. I have an obligation to keep my rear passenger
happy. It's in my best interest, or so she reminds me.
Besides, I decided to make the right midcabin brace area into a storage space,
and
the pedals would get in the way. The installation looks to be straightforward,
however.
That should help confuse you.
--Don
N8RV
> Chris Santschi schrieb:
> >
> > Builders:
> >
> > Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> > installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Blake" <danblake(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
I had the opportunity to fly the RV-8A demo from the back seat, and can say
with out reservation that they work very well in the air. Did not taxi the
aircraft, but will definitely order them with my QB kit.
Dan Blake
Atlanta
8 tail
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Santschi <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 6:03 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
>
> Builders:
>
> Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
>
> Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time.
> Festus,MO.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 03/01/00 |
From: | <psmith(at)marin.org> |
Chris:
I'm installing this option right now on my QB & it's going OK so far. I
drilled the pedal/tubes for the rivet holes & have sent them out for powder
coating in the matching color to the rest of the interior. When they come
back I'll slip on the snap bushings & rivet the rod ends on last.
If you have a QB or a finished airplane, it can be tricky to drill the
second hole in the idler brackets, because of the lack of space at the foot
of the landing gear towers. One hole is already drilled for you, and you
match drill the second hole. My angle drill attachment wouldn't fit in the
space available, so I took a #12 angle drill bit (very short one) and put it
in the hole and twiddled it with my fingers. This marked the center spot for
drilling. Then I removed the bracket & progressively drilled it out to #12.
I found that you have to file the brackets down somewhat to obtain a snug
fit, and because of the slight inaccuracy of marking the drilling spot, I
had to enlarge the two drilled holes to #11. Now everything fits nicely.
For information on a rivet hole conflict with this kit, I'll refer you to
Chuck's page at:
http://www.cruzers.com/~chuckwn/
Good luck,
Phil, 80691
> Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-8 ENGINE INSTALLATION |
I'M ABOUT TO MOUNT MY NEW AO360A1A ENGINE WITH AIR-FLOW PERFORMANCE INJECTION
AND LAZAR IGNITION TO MY RV-8. IS THERE ANY THING I SHOULD MOUNT TO THE
FIREWALL BEFORE I MOUNT THE ENGINE??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-8 804 BULKHEAD |
I HAVE 99% OF MY WIRING DONE, THE THROTTLE QUADRANT IS IN, THE MANUAL AILERON
TRIM IS IN, IS IT WISE TO CLOSE UP THE 804 BULKHEAD NOW OR WAIT UNTIL A LATER
DATE??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR |
HAVE ANY OF THE FINISHED RV-8'S INSTALLED AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE WITH FUEL
INJECTION. IF THE RAM AIR SOURCE WAS PLUGGED FOR SOME STRANGE REASON,
(BIRD, ICE ) WOULDN'T AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE BE NEEDED??
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR |
Definitely, look to the Mooney 201, they have the same system to copy. I
installed an IO360 with RAM and alternate air.
Stephan
SALNED71(at)aol.com schrieb:
>
> HAVE ANY OF THE FINISHED RV-8'S INSTALLED AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE WITH FUEL
> INJECTION. IF THE RAM AIR SOURCE WAS PLUGGED FOR SOME STRANGE REASON,
> (BIRD, ICE ) WOULDN'T AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE BE NEEDED??
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | oil cooler fittings-a0360a1a |
WHAT OIL COOLER FITTINGS DO I NEED FOR THIS ENGINE, SO I CAN GET THEM
INSTALLED BEFORE I MOUNT THE ENGINE???
THANKS
ED KOWALSKI ... #80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren & Rhonda Johnson <wjrj(at)carol.net> |
Subject: | Re: S-Tec Auto Pilot Install |
Gary,
I called S-tec and they sent me several drawings depicting perfered
mounting locations for the roll and pitch servo's. I will mount my roll
servo in the wing in the same bay as the aileron bell crank. S-Tec also
will sell you just the servos up front so you don't have to shell out funds
for the whole system. Also, S-Tec recommends not buying the gyro
instrument until instrument panel time. It isn't good to have gyro
instruments setting idle for long periods of time.
Finishing the first wing #80989
At 03:23 PM 2/23/00, you wrote:
>
>Has anyone any experience installing an S-Tec System 30 autopilot in an RV-8?
>If you have let me know how and where you mounted the roll and pitch servos.
>
>Thanks
>
>Gary Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | RV8A Quick Build Landing Gear |
HELP!
Is there anyone out there who has installed the landing gear weldments WD-821 L
& R on a quick build fuselage?
How did you do it? Specifically did you actually have to make the .040 shim
called for in the drawings but there is no mention of it in the plans. It looks
like you just slap the 821 in place and start drilling, yes? What about the
F-895 B spacer? It looks like the F895 doubler plate is already installed.
It's extremely hard to make heads or tails out of the drawings.
Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Fuse
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8A Quick Build Landing Gear |
Hiya Jim...
I drilled through the skins to gain access for drilling the spacers... To me...
it
looks like this spacer should have been done before the skin was installed... but
wasn't...
Larry
N248PL RV8 quick build kit #008
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> HELP!
>
> Is there anyone out there who has installed the landing gear weldments WD-821
L
> & R on a quick build fuselage?
>
> How did you do it? Specifically did you actually have to make the .040 shim
> called for in the drawings but there is no mention of it in the plans. It looks
> like you just slap the 821 in place and start drilling, yes? What about the
> F-895 B spacer? It looks like the F895 doubler plate is already installed.
> It's extremely hard to make heads or tails out of the drawings.
>
> Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ Fuse
> N89JA (reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve - Installation |
From: | <psmith(at)marin.org> |
Hello Fellow Builders:
I'm about to install my shiny new Andair valve. Van's say they've never
installed one themselves & can't offer any help! I was wondering if anyone
had any tips? Did you install a doubler plate? It seems that the brace
that's included in the kit for Van's brass valve won't be needed. With a bit
of luck I can squeeze the Airflow performance pump into the same space...
Thanks,
Phil, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Medical certification help |
Sorry to be a little off the subject guys but I just had to pass this on...
I'm an insulin dependent diabetic pilot and I had to jump through flaming hoops
to get approval for my special issuance medical. At the time I applied for it
there were only 19 insulin dependent diabetic pilots in the entire U.S.
The Doc I used has a special talent for packaging your medical info just the way
the FAA likes to see it. I received my approval in record time. In my case it
was a long distance consult since I live in Texas and his practice is in
California.
He can be reached at his website http://www.flightsurgeon.com or email at
skydoc(at)sprintmail.com if anyone else can use his services.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SMOKIN222(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: PLEASE READ - Matronics Systems Upgrades... |
Matt--Will you please delete me from all matronic e-mail except the RV 6, 6-A
,* and 8-A. I would appreciate it. I'm getting flooded with matronics
e-mail--apparently because I filled the initial information out wrong. Thank
you. Sid Van landingham, Smokin 222(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX |
>HAS ANYONE DETERMINED THE BEST LOCATION AND ORIENTATION FOR THE CABIN HEAT
>BOX IN THE RV-8. I HAVE THE SMALLER ROBBINS TRIANGULAR SHAPED BOX AND AM
>WONDERING IF I SHOULD INSTALL IT BEFORE OR AFTER MOUNTING THE ENGINE (0 360
>A1A). IT SEEMS THAT IT WOULD BE MUCH EASIER NOW THAN AFTER THE ENGINE IS
>ON.
>
> THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..........ED.80127
>
I don't think there is any such thing as a "best" location, but I put it
right about dead center on the bottom so the heat comes out right by my
feet. The heat makes it back into the cabin pretty well. I still don't have
quite enough flow coming through it, but that's simply an issue of where I'm
getting the air from in the first place. I'll fix that one of these days.
There are pics on my web page that show where I put it. Yes, it is much
easier to make that big hole now without the engine or anything else in the
way.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Did the same. I mounted my cabin heat selector box dead center just high enough
to
clear the adjustable rudder pedals attachment. I wanted the hot air to blow straight
back to the rear passenger, but according to Brian, I may need more flow.
Definitely drill the hole before you mount the engine. Also, if you have a
VM1000
fuel flow transducer, figure out where that will go also.
Joe
#80125 (attaching wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX |
i put mine in the center also just above the rudder pedal bracket,and also
one just below the baggage floor in the center, this one is athree way so i
can mix cool air with the heat and use it for cool air when it's warm, i am
picking the cool air up on the back left engine baffle. I have a 3" on the
back right engine baffle that goes to my heat muff a large hanlin-wilson
unit w/ 2 2" ducts going to the cabin heat inlets.
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Czachorowski [SMTP:midnight(at)udel.edu]
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 09:03
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX
>HAS ANYONE DETERMINED THE BEST LOCATION AND ORIENTATION FOR THE CABIN HEAT
>BOX IN THE RV-8. I HAVE THE SMALLER ROBBINS TRIANGULAR SHAPED BOX AND AM
>WONDERING IF I SHOULD INSTALL IT BEFORE OR AFTER MOUNTING THE ENGINE (0
360
>A1A). IT SEEMS THAT IT WOULD BE MUCH EASIER NOW THAN AFTER THE ENGINE IS
>ON.
>
> THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..........ED.80127
>
I don't think there is any such thing as a "best" location, but I put it
right about dead center on the bottom so the heat comes out right by my
feet. The heat makes it back into the cabin pretty well. I still don't have
quite enough flow coming through it, but that's simply an issue of where
I'm
getting the air from in the first place. I'll fix that one of these days.
There are pics on my web page that show where I put it. Yes, it is much
easier to make that big hole now without the engine or anything else in the
way.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Did the same. I mounted my cabin heat selector box dead center just high
enough to
clear the adjustable rudder pedals attachment. I wanted the hot air to
blow straight
back to the rear passenger, but according to Brian, I may need more flow.
Definitely drill the hole before you mount the engine. Also, if you
have a VM1000
fuel flow transducer, figure out where that will go also.
Joe
#80125 (attaching wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-8 VM1000 & AIRFLOW PERFORMANCE INSTALLATION |
MY ENGINE IS NOT MOUNTED YET. I'M INSTALLING THE 0360A1A WITH THE
AIRFLOW PERFORMANCE INJECTION. WHAT ARE THE DO'S AND DONT'S FOR INSTALLING
THE VM1000? IS THERE A BETTER PLACE FOR THE DPU WITH ALL THOSE WIRES COMING
OUT? IT SEEMS LIKE IT WILL BE QUITE CROWDED AND MESSY. I DO NOT HAVE THE
E100. SHOULD I BE PUTTING ANYTHING ON THE ENGINE BEFORE I MOUNT IT. IS THERE
A BEST PLACE FOR THE FUEL FLOW TRANSDUCER? ALL I'VE DONE IS READ THE MANUALS
SO FAR AND WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP FROM ANYONE WHO'S BEEN THERE AND DONE
THAT.
THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...................ED
KOWALSKI...#80127
WILMINGTON, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Graham <gary(at)colonialmortgage.net> |
Subject: | Vision Microsystem Fuel Probes |
I am trying to install the fuel gauges for Vision Microsystem in my RV-8
QB. Since my tanks are already complete I can't figure out a way to get the
probes installed. The probes are about 4' long and are supposed to be
inserted into the tank from the lowest point to the highest point. The
probes can be cut to any useable length but you lose accuracy as you
shorten. If I try to install with out tearing the tanks apart, the best I
can get is about 18" into the tank. I'm afraid this will give me accurate
readings for only the bottom of the tank.
Has anyone run into this problem? Van's says build the probes into the tank
but that is not an option. Are there any other probes that accomkplish the
job without dismantling the entire tank?
Gary Graham
RV-8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Vision Microsystem Fuel Probes |
an access in each bay is somthing i have seen done at the rear of the
tank,to do this very thing .
John Glader RV-8 qb N21TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Fwd: RV-8 for sale |
I received the following info about an RV-8 for sale. Please reply
directly to Robin, at blabrash(at)rockisland.com
I don't know else about the aircraft.
Kevin
>From: "Barbara LaBrash" <blabrash(at)rockisland.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-8 for sale
>Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:14:08 -0800
>X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300
>
>Kevin,
>
>I have an RV-8, all metal work finished (99%), needs engine, prop,
>instruments, avionics, upholstery, paint. Was fast built kit and
>finished by AP/IA mechanic. Perfect workmanship. Set up for 0-360
>180 HP. $25,000 U.S. If you know of anyone who is looking, this
>one is a gem.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Karl Schilling [SMTP:k_schilling(at)iquest.net]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 08:06
Subject: new birth
I have been told by a friend of mine that people were asking for info on a
RV-8 w/a0320. I have a recent completion,first flight 1-15 00. It's has a
conical mount 0-320 w/a pacesetter 200 68/69 prop, 160 H.P. Empty weight
1019 lbs. Basic VFR insts.,w/garmin250XL,EIS engine insts.,Navaid wing
leveler. Numbers so far w/about 45+hrs.are as follows. Static rpm 2150,
2500 rpm at 3000 msl 24" mp 175 mph. At 2600 rpm just under 190.
Measured fuel burn at 2500 rpm 9.3 gal per hr. Engine is still quite
tight and I think it will be a while longer for it to come in. If you
would like to see what it looks like go to www.globeswift.com, scroll down
to Karl's RV-8. I plan on being at Sun& Fun with the airplane, N711KN.
Hope to see a bunch of you there. Still smiling
MP reading is off some, I am still calabrating the inst.
Karl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RE: new birth |
Karl,
Congratulations! You must be very proud. I am almost there. Did
an engine run to check for leaks. Painting is next. See you at SUN-N-FUN!
Joe
#80125
Karl Schilling wrote:
> I have a recent completion,first flight 1-15 00. It's has a
> conical mount 0-320 w/a pacesetter 200 68/69 prop, 160 H.P.
>
> I plan on being at Sun& Fun with the airplane, N711KN.
> Hope to see a bunch of you there. Still smiling
> MP reading is off some, I am still calabrating the inst.
> Karl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | NOTICE: Matronics Web Server Back Online... |
Dear Email Listers,
The Matronics Web and FTP server is finally back online! What a
nightmare... But at least its finally done and in all honesty the
system is running much better. Everything should be working now
including the Search Engine, Archive Browser, various List-related
pages, Matronics Product Pages, Online Ordering, Real Video server
and Contribution pages.
Again, I'm sorry it took so long to get things back - way longer than I
ever intended.
Have fun!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | VM1000 Panel Installation |
From: Rv8don(at)aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 18:21:58 EDT
Subject: RV-List: VM 1000 Panel Installation
Anyone out there who's installed a VM 1000 in the panel got any suggestions
on how to mark and cut an accurate opening in the panel? The drawing that
Vision Micro provides isn't very good. I'm looking at Rev F. Too bad they
don't have a punch to rent out!
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
Don,
Call Vision Microsystems. They have a metal template that they
will send you. I taped it to my panel and used a router with a bearing edge
bit to cut it out. Worked like a champ but you get chips everywhere. If you
don't have a CNC machine, this is the second best way to do it.
Joe
(finishing wing root fairings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Tom Barnes wrote:
> Joe, I saw your post about using a router to cut the panel hole. I have a
> couple Craftsman routers for woodworking. Are you using this type of tool?
> Also, where did you get your bits and what size.
>
> This coule be a real time saver for me.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Tom Barnes -6 finishing
>
Tom,
As a matter of fact, I used a Craftsman router and a bit that trims
the edges of formica (it has a bearing in it). I taped the template down to the
panel (after practicing on scrap several times) and just "kissed" the edges of
the template. The bit cuts the aluminum like a hot knife through butter. I
bought the smallest bit that Sears had ( I'm sorry that I don't remember the
name of this bit but I think it's a 1/4" radius and fits perfectly in the
corners of the VM1000 template. The bit has a bearing on it)
I taped the template down with 3M glossy packing tape. This made it easy to
run the router over it. You will be pleasantly surprised on how the finished
product turns out! Almost as good as a CNC. Practice on scraps first.
Joe
#80125
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to
their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? Particularly
anyone with a quick build 8. I just tried to install mine this weekend and it's
1/2 inch too small. I could pull it into place with C-clamps but it would put
those AN3 bolts that hold it in place under a great deal of stress.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Question |
Our WD-814 was also 1/2 to small...
I use a hydraulic press and expanded weldment 2 inches from normal... however it
when it sprung back I still had a 1/4 inch gap...
I wasn't comfortable expanding more so I gave up...
I installed weldment with 1/4 gap by first pulling one side then bolting it down
then stretching the other side and clamping in place for drilling...
Larry
N248PL QB-RV8
916-332-0704
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to
> their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? Particularly
> anyone with a quick build 8. I just tried to install mine this weekend and it's
> 1/2 inch too small. I could pull it into place with C-clamps but it would put
> those AN3 bolts that hold it in place under a great deal of stress.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse
> N89JA (reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Question |
Jim--
I had talks with others on the list, as well as with Ken Krueger at Van's about
this
same problem. My weldment was about 1/2" too narrow for my fuse, and I was
instructed by all to "just bend it." Ken actually told me to sit on the floor,
put
my foot on one side, and pull until it fits! As ridiculous as it sounds, it
worked. I guess I'm a real wimp, 'cause I had to repeat it several times.
Eventually, it fit OK. It's not the big deal that I was assuming it would be.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to
> their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Question |
Don...
How far did you spread weldment without using a press???
Did you heat the metal first???
Larry
Don McNamara wrote:
>
> Jim--
>
> I had talks with others on the list, as well as with Ken Krueger at Van's about
this
> same problem. My weldment was about 1/2" too narrow for my fuse, and I was
> instructed by all to "just bend it." Ken actually told me to sit on the floor,
put
> my foot on one side, and pull until it fits! As ridiculous as it sounds, it
> worked. I guess I'm a real wimp, 'cause I had to repeat it several times.
> Eventually, it fit OK. It's not the big deal that I was assuming it would be.
>
> --Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
> Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to
> > their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Question |
Well, I can't tell you in psi...I did just what I was told to do--sat on the floor
(and
got aluminum shavings in my butt!), put on some gloves and pulled as hard as I
could.
Stopped, measured the space between the sides (I knew what the measurement was
before I
started and what my target measurement was), and found that it moved about half
as much as
I needed. Sat down again, (more aluminum shavings) grunted and pulled again, then
measured. Sure enough, it had moved a wee bit more. The third attempt moved it
as much
as I needed. I found that making it wider only made it fit worse--it changed the
other
angles involved in the weldment, and how it fit against the longerons.
I hate to think how much damage I might have done to the weldment or myself if
I had tried
to heat it and then bend it! As for a press...
Hope that helps, Larry.
--Don
N8RV
Larry -xlax- Lovisone wrote:
>
> Don...
> How far did you spread weldment without using a press???
> Did you heat the metal first???
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
I've just completed a fairly major update to my web site. For those
interested it can be seen at www.pacifier.com/~randyl. There are new
sections complete with pics on Fuselage, Wiring, Interior, and Wiring in
addition to everything that was there before. All previous content has been
re-organized, hopefully you'll find it logically laid out and intuitive to
navigate. Most of all I hope you find it helpful, especially the newer folks
in the earlier stages of construction.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finishing winscreen glassing, starting baffling/plenum
www.pacifer.com/~randyl
www.RV8ing.com coming soon!
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 fuse jig in Ottawa, Canada |
Several friends helped me pull my RV-8 fuselage out of the jig after
work today, so I need to get rid of my jig. It is a straight, solid
jig, and it is free to a good home. I've got it sitting outside
under a tarp right now, so it probably won't stay straight too long.
I'll be on the road for much of the next several weeks, and may not
be getting e-mail at this account. I will be getting my work e-mail
though, so you can reach me at hortonk(at)tc.gc.ca My wife will be home
most evenings, and on the weekend, so you can still pick up the jig
in my absence.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | RV-8 Baggage Door |
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 baggage door
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:03:39 -0700
Hey Jim... You bring up a timely topic. I'm at that stage also, quite
happy
w/ my results but of the 15 or so -8's Ive' seen this is one very
noticeable
metal working feat. like the book says, drill the door from the inside
and
hope the curve matches. Mine does if you push down hard when you activate
the lock, but I'm waiting till the engine is hung until I drill the UHMA
blocks to the bulkheads. Some builders add shims to the bulkheads to
account
for the irregularly, others add a fill material to match a joint. Most
I've
seen have a mismatch at the rear curve, not as bad as the front mismatch
which would question the lift up possibility.
I'd love to hear what the experts say, cause there's many of us coming
that
way.
Regards
Doug Gardner -8A
Doug and RV-8 ers,
I used a different technique that works
really well. I did not even crawl inside to back drill! First, procure
some 3M two part epoxy (2216). Drill and clecoe your baggage door parts
and tweak the baggage door from the outside while it is just clecoed (no
rivets yet).You may have to take it off and on about ten times until you
get it to were you want it. A straight vixen file is excellent to match
up the edges with the cutout in the fuselage. I used a "slip roll" for
the bottom edge to get a nice curl but in lieu of that you could probably
do a real nice job with a edge rolling tool (Cleaveland tools sells a
nice one that is made from a vice grips).
After everything is drilled, debarred and dimpled, install the
door with clecoes and check your fit once again (btw, don't install the
inner door cover, yet!) If your happy, remove the top door skin and mix
a small batch of epoxy. Epoxy the door to the door ribs and hold it with
clecoes ONLY! After a day of curing, remove the clecoes (they remove
easily) and lightly clean the holes with a hand held deburr tool. Rivet
the top and bottom doors on the ribs and install on to the fuselage.
Your done. The neat thing about the epoxy is that it holds the door skin
to the ribs without shifting. You get a real nice fit that way.
Joe Czachorowski
#80125 (almost finished)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Baggage Door |
Greets...
Our baggage door fits good without gaps but I want it to fit better...
To get to this level of good fit I did this...
1 Rolled outer and inner door skins to match rib shape...
2 I articulated door rods so they poke the plastic bearing is a straight
line...
3 I machined bearing blocks out of slippery Delrin...
note... I built door completely from the outside without drilling from the
inside...
To go to the next level of fit... I might drill holes in ribs to relieve
pressure and have door conform better...
I can send pic of door rods to anyone interested...
Larry
The Busy Little Shop
N248PL
Joe Czachorowski wrote:
>
> From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 baggage door
> Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:03:39 -0700
>
> Hey Jim... You bring up a timely topic. I'm at that stage also, quite
> happy
> w/ my results but of the 15 or so -8's Ive' seen this is one very
> noticeable
> metal working feat. like the book says, drill the door from the inside
> and
> hope the curve matches. Mine does if you push down hard when you activate
>
> the lock, but I'm waiting till the engine is hung until I drill the UHMA
> blocks to the bulkheads. Some builders add shims to the bulkheads to
> account
> for the irregularly, others add a fill material to match a joint. Most
> I've
> seen have a mismatch at the rear curve, not as bad as the front mismatch
> which would question the lift up possibility.
> I'd love to hear what the experts say, cause there's many of us coming
> that
> way.
>
> Regards
> Doug Gardner -8A
>
> Doug and RV-8 ers,
>
> I used a different technique that works
> really well. I did not even crawl inside to back drill! First, procure
> some 3M two part epoxy (2216). Drill and clecoe your baggage door parts
> and tweak the baggage door from the outside while it is just clecoed (no
> rivets yet).You may have to take it off and on about ten times until you
> get it to were you want it. A straight vixen file is excellent to match
> up the edges with the cutout in the fuselage. I used a "slip roll" for
> the bottom edge to get a nice curl but in lieu of that you could probably
> do a real nice job with a edge rolling tool (Cleaveland tools sells a
> nice one that is made from a vice grips).
>
> After everything is drilled, debarred and dimpled, install the
> door with clecoes and check your fit once again (btw, don't install the
> inner door cover, yet!) If your happy, remove the top door skin and mix
> a small batch of epoxy. Epoxy the door to the door ribs and hold it with
> clecoes ONLY! After a day of curing, remove the clecoes (they remove
> easily) and lightly clean the holes with a hand held deburr tool. Rivet
> the top and bottom doors on the ribs and install on to the fuselage.
> Your done. The neat thing about the epoxy is that it holds the door skin
> to the ribs without shifting. You get a real nice fit that way.
>
> Joe Czachorowski
> #80125 (almost finished)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard" <bigfoot(at)saber.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Baggage Door |
Disposition-Notification-To: "Richard"
Larry
Very interesting procedure on fitting the baggage door. I have use of a
roller and was going to roll the inner and outer skins to match the curve of
the ribs too. I would like very much to see the photographs you have
fitting the baggage door.
Dick Johnson Willits, Ca
RV8A putting the pieces together
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | PLEASE READ: Network Problems To Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
My ISP is upgrading their network today 4/30 and tomorrow 5/1. I
noticed that Nameservice (DNS) went down last night around 3am which
causes all sorts of problems. If your message post was rejected between
about 3am 4/30 and 1pm 4/30, please repost as it was rejected do to the
DNS being down. I've redirected my systems to a different DNS server in
the mean time and things seem to be working right now. In any case, be
aware that there may be continuing issues over the next couple of days
both posting email messages and accessing the web server.
My ISP *promises* that things are going to be so much better after the
upgrade! We'll see... ;-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Subject: | engine questions |
Hi all,
I've got a couple engine questions if you don't mind. These refer to a new O-360-A1A
purchased
through Van's.
- The engine was test run at the factory, and came with long term storage. The
engine included a
new oil filter in the box. Am I supposed to install the new filter before I run
the engine, or save
it for the first oil change? The filter on the engine would only have an hour
and ten minutes of
running time, but I guess it might also be full of preserving oil.
- Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop, I removed the prop governor adapter and
oil line. Now I have
to plug up the hole where the governor adapter was, and I've been unable to find
a cover at any of
the local FBO hangouts. As it turns out, I have a perfect aluminum plate to go
over the hole, but
it has about a 3/8 hole right in the middle. I also plan to use an air oil separator,
and need a
place to run the drain oil back to the engine. Would there be any problem with
tapping the governor
plate hole for 1/4" NPT, and installing a hose fitting for the return oil? I'm
assuming there's
just crankcase pressure under the plate. Is that right?
Thanks for any advice.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (moving to the hanger next weekend)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
Subject: | engine questions |
Rv8'rs:
I went through these same issues too, same configuration.
As for the filter I had to remove the old one just to get at the #$%@# oil
cooler line fitting, so the new one went on.
On the governer, Bengilis suggests fabrictating a 1/4" alum plate cover for
it. I used a double layer of 1/8" plates because that's what I had
available. Our local EAA tech consuler thought that ok.
On the air-oil sep, I ran a drain line into the base of the plastic oil fill
tube, which I driled and tapped for 1/4" NPT. Again our EAA tech consuler
said that was fine, though another member who is an A&P would only comment
that the FAA would not accept it.
Greg Miller
RV8 QB N89GM, finally ready for prop (24 mo. 2200 hrs)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russell Duffy
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 7:03 PM
Subject: RV8-List: engine questions
Hi all,
I've got a couple engine questions if you don't mind. These refer to a new
O-360-A1A purchased
through Van's.
- The engine was test run at the factory, and came with long term storage.
The engine included a
new oil filter in the box. Am I supposed to install the new filter before I
run the engine, or save
it for the first oil change? The filter on the engine would only have an
hour and ten minutes of
running time, but I guess it might also be full of preserving oil.
- Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop, I removed the prop governor adapter
and oil line. Now I have
to plug up the hole where the governor adapter was, and I've been unable to
find a cover at any of
the local FBO hangouts. As it turns out, I have a perfect aluminum plate to
go over the hole, but
it has about a 3/8 hole right in the middle. I also plan to use an air oil
separator, and need a
place to run the drain oil back to the engine. Would there be any problem
with tapping the governor
plate hole for 1/4" NPT, and installing a hose fitting for the return oil?
I'm assuming there's
just crankcase pressure under the plate. Is that right?
Thanks for any advice.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (moving to the hanger next weekend)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
Subject: | Re: engine questions |
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Miller <gvm(at)srv.net>
Date: Monday, May 01, 2000 9:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: engine questions
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Miller"
>
>Rv8'rs:
>
>On the air-oil sep, I ran a drain line into the base of the plastic oil
fill
>tube, which I driled and tapped for 1/4" NPT. Again our EAA tech consuler
>said that was fine, though another member who is an A&P would only comment
>that the FAA would not accept it.
>
>I used to do the same until someone convinced me to run it into a container
of some sort and take a look at what collects there. My engine had a fair
amount of blow-by at that time and was I ever surprised to see what I was
collecting. It looked like a bunch of water with a little bit of oil in it.
Not something I would want to recirculate in my engine. I'm sure a new
engine would not have as much water, but we are trying to turn them into
used engines, aren't we?
>Ivan Haecker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/03/00 |
I'm just getting started and came up with an idea i think will be helpful to
other newbies. To get proper alignment of the HS-810 and HS-814 I used a
clear plastic laminating sheet (contact paper would probably work also but is
stretchier) and carefully laid out the edge dimensions (3.25") and vertical
and horizontal centerlines. After quadruple checking my measurements I
removed the paper backing and set the HS-810 and HS-814 onto the adhesive
side. I transferred the whole setup to the HS-602s (already properly clamped
to my work surface) and lined up the vert. and horiz. centerlines. After
multiple checks I taped the assembly in place and proceeded to drill the
appropriate holes. This process worked extremely well and I am well pleased
with the results.
Tim Nell
RV-8
19.5 whole hours (about 1%)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Corrossion on everything. |
> Hi Rvators,
I am wondering if anybody else has had the problem with corrosion along the edges
of all their skins and ribs etc.....It usually is in areas of about 6 inches long
and about half an inch long.
Vans has already replaced my spar due to corrosion.......just wondering...
Peter.
wings almost finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Site update, new domain |
Gang,
Just wanted to let you know that I've updated my site by adding a couple of
pages and updating a few others. The FWF page is new, you might find details
of my fuel system interesting also. There have also been additions to the
Plenum/Cowl page and the Battery page for those of you interested.
Lastly, I have a new domain and url... www.rv-8.com. Very imaginative, huh?
If you would like to visit the site again you might want to remember to
change your Favorites or Bookmarks. Oh, my e-mail address has changed too to
randy@rv-8.com.
Blue skies,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, plenum/baffling, soon to mount prop
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | F-804 Spacer Accuracy |
>
>I'm ready to fabricate the spacer for my F-804 spar carrythrough
>bulkhead prior to installing it in the jig and I'm wondering what would
>constitute acceptable accuracy for thickness. My spar root ends are
>both 1 15/32" thick, but I don't have any means of cutting wood (or
>anything else) to the nearest 1/32". If I can come up with a 1.5" thick
>spacer, would the 'extra' 1/32" be a problem when I install my wings?
>What are other -8 builders doing in this area?
>
>--
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
Ken,
When I did this part, I called out to Van's and talk to Ken Krueger.
He said between 2 to 3 thousanths would be OK. He said the best would be zero,
but than it would be difficult to attach the spar. I had some square tubing
milled on a milling machine to exactly what I wanted. When you use steel, you
don't have to worry about changing the distance when you tighten the bolts. BTW,
my wings slipped right in!
Joe
#80125 (wings painted)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard" <bigfoot(at)saber.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/27/00 |
Where are all the RV8 builders?
Dick Johnson RV8A
About to install the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/27/00 |
>
>Where are all the RV8 builders?
>
>Dick Johnson RV8A
>About to install the engine
>
Dick,
It seems that almost no one is using the various RV-3/4/6/8 specific
lists. There are quite a few RV-8/8A builders on the regular RV
list, so maybe you should subscribe to it instead. Any posts to the
other RV-X lists get sent to the RV-List automatically, so you will
still see any posts that get sent to the RV-8 list.
There are also a lot of RV-8/8A builders on another list set up by
Moe Colontonio. You can subscribe at:
http://www.onelist.com/community/rv8list
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | G1159MEK(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/28/00 |
What do you mean exactly?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
\"Michael Fry\"" ,
"Dennis Souder" ,
"Ben Ransom" ,
"Bruce Daughtry" ,
"Bobby Hargrave"
Hello all,
After 2.5 years and 1600+ hours of hard work, my RV-8 made it's first flight this
morning at 9:00
am. The flight was only about 30 minutes, but it was PERFECT! The only issue
was cylinder head
temp during climb to 4500 ft, but that came down when I increased climb speed from
100kts to 120kts
(after the RMI warned me- gotta love digital instruments). ATC called me up and
asked what kind of
plane it was, and commented that it sure was climbing well. I was like a proud
papa when I told him
it was an RV-8 :-)
I wish I had more number for you, but that will have to come later. The first
flight was purely a
survival exercise. Since my airport is below the triple-lobed class C airspace
mess around the
Pensacola FL area, I called ATC on the phone 30 minutes before the flight to arrange
a clearance
into their area. They were very helpful, and gave me a squawk code and clearance
for unrestricted
VFR climb to 4500 ft. That allowed me to concentrate on getting the plane up and
climbing safely,
without worrying about having to contact them before penetrating their airspace
at 1400 ft. When I
contacted approach at 2200 ft, I was delighted to hear that my transponder, encoder,
and radio were
all working well. During the flight, I never exceeded 140 kts, and mainly just
worked my way up to
turns of about 30 degree bank at 2200 RPM. Next, I slowed the plane to 85kts and
made some gentle
turns, followed by half flaps and some turns. Finally, I slowed the plane to 60kts
indicated and
half flaps, with no sign of stall. Since I saw 70 kts as I left the runway, and
planned to do the
first approach at 80 kts, I decided that 60 was low enough to test for the first
flight. The
landing was pretty good for a first attempt, and only took about 800 ft. Pity
this was the last 800
ft of a 3800 ft runway :-) I guess 80 kts is a little fast for being solo with
half fuel and half
flaps.
Many thanks to all that offered advice over the years, especially Brian Denk who
gave me a fine
briefing by phone last night (sorry to leave you in suspense all day Brian). Also
thanks to John
Henley for an excellent RV-6 checkout that he gave me Tuesday and Wednesday, and
to Bob Hargrave- my
local RV-8 building buddy (his plane will likely be flying this Sunday). Both
John and Bob are
former military instructors, and I have no doubt that their briefings would have
saved my life if
anything had gone wrong. Get to know your local builders, there's a lot of talent
out there.
Finally, a special thanks to my wonderful wife Coral who endured countless hours
of neglect so the
RV-8 could be finished now. Hopefully, the payoff for her will be all the traveling
we can do in
our own RV-8.
For the record, Empty weight is 1062 lbs without paint, wheel pants, or leg fairings.
I have a new
Lycoming O-360 with a Sensenich 85" pitch aluminum prop, full electric gyro panel,
day/night VFR
plus Garmin 195 GPS.
Russell (I'm a happy guy) Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (Flying!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard" <bigfoot(at)saber.net> |
Subject: | Re: N174KT Flies!!! |
Congratulations Russell
I will have my RV8A flying this Fall if all goes well. I am glad to hear
that it all went without a hitch for your first flight. What was your
flying experience prior to The RV6 and how much RV6 time did you get?
If Van ever sends me the wheels, I'll hang the engine. Airframe is just
about complete.
Dick Johnson, Willits, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wil Ramsey <wilr(at)eoni.com> |
Subject: | Re: N174KT Flies!!! |
Russell
Congradulations can almost hear the excitement in your writing.
Wil Ramsey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: N174KT Flies!!! |
Russell,
Congratulations! The best point that you made (besides flying an airplane
that you built
with your own hands) was using the many resources that are available (especially
from this list,i.e.
Brian Denk). What better way of knowing what to expect than to call someone who
has been there and has
the tee shirt. I think Brian will be getting many more calls because of your post.
I know I will!
Joe
#80125 (wings painted, fuselage next)
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> After 2.5 years and 1600+ hours of hard work, my RV-8 made it's first flight
this morning at 9:00
> am. The flight was only about 30 minutes, but it was PERFECT!
>
> Many thanks to all that offered advice over the years, especially Brian Denk
who gave me a fine
> briefing by phone last night (sorry to leave you in suspense all day Brian).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Re: N174KT Flies!!! |
Congratulations Russell!
There must be about 300 of us RV-8... builders out there that are just about to
join you. Glad to see all that hard work actually pays off.
Brian has been a big help to me as well. Van's isn't paying him enough ;-)
Please tell us more as you get more data.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finish )
Austin, Texas
N89JA ( reserved )
"Russell Duffy" on 06/02/2000 12:04:13 AM
Please respond to rv8-list(at)matronics.com
, "Dennis Souder" , "Ben
Ransom" , "Bruce Daughtry"
, "Bobby Hargrave"
Subject: RV8-List: N174KT Flies!!!
Hello all,
After 2.5 years and 1600+ hours of hard work, my RV-8 made it's first flight
this morning at 9:00
am. The flight was only about 30 minutes, but it was PERFECT! The only issue
was cylinder head
temp during climb to 4500 ft, but that came down when I increased climb speed
from 100kts to 120kts
(after the RMI warned me- gotta love digital instruments). ATC called me up and
asked what kind of
plane it was, and commented that it sure was climbing well. I was like a proud
papa when I told him
it was an RV-8 :-)
I wish I had more number for you, but that will have to come later. The first
flight was purely a
survival exercise. Since my airport is below the triple-lobed class C airspace
mess around the
Pensacola FL area, I called ATC on the phone 30 minutes before the flight to
arrange a clearance
into their area. They were very helpful, and gave me a squawk code and
clearance for unrestricted
VFR climb to 4500 ft. That allowed me to concentrate on getting the plane up
and climbing safely,
without worrying about having to contact them before penetrating their airspace
at 1400 ft. When I
contacted approach at 2200 ft, I was delighted to hear that my transponder,
encoder, and radio were
all working well. During the flight, I never exceeded 140 kts, and mainly just
worked my way up to
turns of about 30 degree bank at 2200 RPM. Next, I slowed the plane to 85kts
and made some gentle
turns, followed by half flaps and some turns. Finally, I slowed the plane to
60kts indicated and
half flaps, with no sign of stall. Since I saw 70 kts as I left the runway, and
planned to do the
first approach at 80 kts, I decided that 60 was low enough to test for the first
flight. The
landing was pretty good for a first attempt, and only took about 800 ft. Pity
this was the last 800
ft of a 3800 ft runway :-) I guess 80 kts is a little fast for being solo with
half fuel and half
flaps.
Many thanks to all that offered advice over the years, especially Brian Denk who
gave me a fine
briefing by phone last night (sorry to leave you in suspense all day Brian).
Also thanks to John
Henley for an excellent RV-6 checkout that he gave me Tuesday and Wednesday, and
to Bob Hargrave- my
local RV-8 building buddy (his plane will likely be flying this Sunday). Both
John and Bob are
former military instructors, and I have no doubt that their briefings would have
saved my life if
anything had gone wrong. Get to know your local builders, there's a lot of
talent out there.
Finally, a special thanks to my wonderful wife Coral who endured countless hours
of neglect so the
RV-8 could be finished now. Hopefully, the payoff for her will be all the
traveling we can do in
our own RV-8.
For the record, Empty weight is 1062 lbs without paint, wheel pants, or leg
fairings. I have a new
Lycoming O-360 with a Sensenich 85" pitch aluminum prop, full electric gyro
panel, day/night VFR
plus Garmin 195 GPS.
Russell (I'm a happy guy) Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (Flying!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Thanks for all the congratulatory messages, on and off list, regarding my first
flight. The second
flight yesterday when just as well as the first, so I think I'm on my way to a
successful test
flight period. If you're not flying yet, keep the faith and your day will come.
You won't be
disappointed!
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (flying 1.5 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Subject: | early test flight questions |
Hi all,
Two issues have come up with my initial test flight program, and I couldn't find
exact answers in a
brief archive search.
First, I have a hard time keeping the rear CHT's below the 260C/500F limit during
climb (90 degree
Florida day). The only way I can do it is to climb at 120kts which isn't so bad
for now. I have an
RMI and can read all 4 cylinders, so I know that the front two cylinders are consistently
20C/68F
cooler than the rear. This is a brand new O-360, and I understand that the CHT's
will drop some
after break-in is complete. My primary question is about the "optional" air deflectors
that can be
placed in front of the #1 and #2 cylinders. It seems obvious that these will raise
the temps on the
front two cylinders, but will it actually lower the temps on the back two?
The second issue is more of a question than a problem. Is there a direct calculation
for HP that
can be made for any particular condition? I'm trying to keep the power between
65 and 75 % for
break-in purposes, but can't quite figure out how. The Lycoming chart is a bit
confusing, and seems
to require more data than I've collected. Here is some data from yesterday's flight
as an example:
RV-8 (no wheel pants), O-360 engine, 85" pitch Sensenich prop. In cruise, 2450
rpm, 4500 ft, 21.3
MAP, 11 gph rich, 9.1 gph lean, 151 kts GPS averaged groundspeed, no OAT probe
but 90F on the
ground. How would you calculate HP from this? When I try to use the chart, it
seems like this is
only around 60% power, but the speed seems too high for 60% and no wheel fairings.
I saw a formula
in the archives that said you could multiply gph by 11.5 to get HP, but would you
use full rich, or
lean fuel flow. Geez, this shouldn't be so hard.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT ()
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: early test flight questions |
>
>Hi all,
>
>Two issues have come up with my initial test flight program, and I
>couldn't find exact answers in a
>brief archive search.
>
>The second issue is more of a question than a problem. Is there a
>direct calculation for HP that
>can be made for any particular condition? I'm trying to keep the
>power between 65 and 75 % for
>break-in purposes, but can't quite figure out how. The Lycoming
>chart is a bit confusing, and seems
>to require more data than I've collected. Here is some data from
>yesterday's flight as an example:
>RV-8 (no wheel pants), O-360 engine, 85" pitch Sensenich prop. In
>cruise, 2450 rpm, 4500 ft, 21.3
>MAP, 11 gph rich, 9.1 gph lean, 151 kts GPS averaged groundspeed, no
>OAT probe but 90F on the
>ground. How would you calculate HP from this? When I try to use
>the chart, it seems like this is
>only around 60% power, but the speed seems too high for 60% and no
>wheel fairings. I saw a formula
>in the archives that said you could multiply gph by 11.5 to get HP,
>but would you use full rich, or
>lean fuel flow. Geez, this shouldn't be so hard.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Russell Duffy
Russell,
I can't help on your first issue, but maybe I can do something on the second.
Larry Pardue put together a power chart that is easier to use than
the Lycoming graphs. See:
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Power.htm
Randall Henderson did something similar. See:
http://www.edt.com/homewing/o360_power.html
I made an Excel spreadsheet. See:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/o360apwr.zip
These links are all available in the Engine and Prop section of my RV
Links page:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html
My spreadsheet says that you would have been making about 70% power,
at standard temperature. You would have been making about 68% power
if the temperature was 20 deg F above standard.
Hope this helps,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Subject: | Re: early test flight questions |
Forget that Denk guy, you're my new best friend now Kevin :-) Really, thanks to
all you guys that
put this stuff together, this is GREAT, just what I needed.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (hopefully attending another RV-8 first flight tomorrow)
> I can't help on your first issue, but maybe I can do something on the second.
>
> Larry Pardue put together a power chart that is easier to use than
> the Lycoming graphs. See:
>
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Power.htm
>
> Randall Henderson did something similar. See:
>
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/o360_power.html
>
> I made an Excel spreadsheet. See:
>
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/o360apwr.zip
>
> These links are all available in the Engine and Prop section of my RV
> Links page:
>
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html
>
> My spreadsheet says that you would have been making about 70% power,
> at standard temperature. You would have been making about 68% power
> if the temperature was 20 deg F above standard.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | G1159MEK(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 06/03/00 |
Congrats!!! I have heard that people are putting a grate per say to add to
the amount of air flowing though the cowl on io-360 equipped 8's.. I wonder
if that would help. After doing that you might have to play with the front
cylinders to keep the from getting too cool. You put the louvered piece where
cowl flaps normally would go. I have seen it on other 8's but I don't
remember where. My 2 cents. Mike #81292 Tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 firewall gotcha |
RV-8ers,
I fabricated my battery tray this weekend, and learned something
about the firewall that I'll pass on.
The battery tray mounts to the front side of the firewall (unless
you've got a 200 hp IO-360 and CS prop). It mounts with match holes
in those angles on the back side of the firewall. If you put rivets
in all those holes, you'll have to drill four of them out when it
comes time to mount the battery tray. No big deal, but it would be
less work just to leave those rivets out when you assemble the
firewall. You'll also want to not dimple/countersink those four
holes. See DWG 31 for details.
Does the current revision of DWG 21 mention leaving those four holes
open? Mine certainly doesn't. If some can confirm (e-mail me
directly) that the current DWG 21 still doesn't mention the battery
tray, I'll send a note to Van's so they can add a note to the drawing.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
I sell a great GPS antenna that is amplified and is black in color for
mounting on the glare shield. It could be mounted outside in the wind
stream or concelled elsewhere. The Lowe antenna is also a great antenna,
I know because I have one, but note the location of the cable coming out
of the antenna. The cable is also not removeable from the antenna.
Look on my website at the address of : http://www.gretzaero.com
You will see my antenna there along with the other products I sell.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Hi guys,
A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll
have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible'
and noticed their starter set.
Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
Thanks for any help!
- Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Try Cleveland Tool in the yellow pages.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ludwig [SMTP:ludwig(at)azstarnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 08:59
Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
Subject: | New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Now that I'm just a few weeks from launch of my RV8 QB, it's clear that the
two most frustrating and time consuming aspects of building, which could
have been avoided, were not having tools when I needed them, nor the parts.
Note that in SE Idaho, nothing is available locally..
The $600 Avery RV kit is just a starter. I have a receipt book for tool
purchases an inch thick totalling about $2700, and my same colection of Vans
invoices is about 2" thick. Seemed like every two weeks I'd have to stop
building, or at best switch to some other build task while I waited for
either tools or parts. That included waiting 6 mo. for the QB kit...
Were I to do it all over I would first make all design decisions (like where
the oil cooler goes, instrument panel layout, instuments, firewall layout
(!), interior, antennas, cabin heat ducting, control location, etc.), then
order all kits and subkits from Vans at once, all instruments, wiring,
antenna, .... Seemed like I ended up pretty much buying at least one at
everything in Vans catalog.
Of course the real trick is coming up with the list. I've been meaning to
write up a final tool list and perhaps a list of unforseen parts/tasks etc.
for out local chapter, but like all other tasks it takes time away from
building. Email if interested.
--Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM, paint prep, paint, and windshield fairing remains..24 mo. 2300
hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Ludwig
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:59 AM
Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
Hi guys,
A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll
have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible'
and noticed their starter set.
Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
Thanks for any help!
- Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-ez , RV List
Subject: | Gretz Aero Cyber Problems |
Greetings, I found out last night and checked out the problem today and
I am not receiving any order sent to Gretz Aero by way of my website. I
am not sure of the problem fix as yet. If you placed an order with me
lately (last few weeks) and have not heard from me, please e-mail me
right away and describe what you want to order. Or, you may call me in
the evenings or on the weekends and place the order again. I also have a
recorder on the phone line.
My website address is http://www.gretzaero.com but, at this
time do not place orders by way of the website. I will post a notice
when it is fixed. Please call me or send me an e-mail in the meantime.
Sorry for the inconvience.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811 evenings and weekends, or leave a message on the recorder
warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wil Ramsey <wilr(at)eoni.com> |
Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Bill
The Avery kit that has complete set is good, not quite complete, but a very
good start. I suggest getting both the 2x & 3x rivet guns if you can
afford. 2x
is the ticket for small skin rivets, very controllable and with the swivel
driver head (an extra, results are great.) 3x for heaver size 4 rivets. Start
with low pressures and use scrap to practice.
Videos of building are a great help. Don't cover everything, but do get you
going in the right direction. If you don't have experience (like me, and are
building alone) they are recommended.
I don't know if you are acquainted with unistrut conduit supports, they
make an
excellent framing jig. Also, the hinge brackets available from Avery to
do the
horizontal stabilizer are a good investment, don't know what else you would
use.
Enjoy, it is a great kit and makes you feel like you know what you are doing.
Wil Ramsey
working on wings, QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Bill . . . I, too, am building an 8 ("A" version) quick build. If you can
handle an Excel spreadsheet I'll send this separately which is a very
complete list of tools that I worked off of in setting up my shop. It may
be overkill, but it certainly has provided me with just about everything
I've needed. Contact me off line if you'd like it . . . rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
>
>Hi guys,
>
>A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.
It'll
>have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
>moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
>full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
>
>I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
>no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
>of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
>his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce
'bible'
>and noticed their starter set.
>
>Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
>one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
>another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>- Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory"
Bill . . . I, too, am building an 8 ("A" version) quick build. If you can
handle an Excel spreadsheet I'll send this separately which is a very
complete list of tools that I worked off of in setting up my shop. It may
be overkill, but it certainly has provided me with just about everything
I've needed. Contact me off line if you'd like it . . . rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
>
>Hi guys,
>
>A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.
It'll
>have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
>moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
>full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
>
>I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
>no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
>of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
>his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce
'bible'
>and noticed their starter set.
>
>Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
>one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
>another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>- Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobby Hargrave <bobby.hargrave(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
"RV Builders List (E-mail)" ,
"Brian Denk (E-mail)" ,
"John Henley (E-mail)" ,
"Lou Smith (E-mail)"
"Rusty Duffy (E-mail)"
Subject: | RV8 Control Problems |
Gentleman and Ladies:
1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control
horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all
flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all
panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
Bobby Hargrave
80706 N426NC
Cell. 901.834.1281
home 850.473.9105
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
\"Brian Denk (E-mail)\"" ,
"John Henley (E-mail)" ,
"Ed Storo (E-mail)"
Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems |
Hiya Bobby...
Thanks for the info... I plan on subsisting plain nuts with self locking nuts...
Every completed and flying RV8 pushes me on...
I've been busy redesigning and machining custom throttles to replace the stock
lawn mover
looking controls...
http://www.rvators.com/larry/pic1/TQuadRed.JPG
Larry xlax Lovisone USAF ret.
The Busy Little Machine Shop
RV8 weak wing theorist
http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
Bobby Hargrave wrote:
>
> Gentleman and Ladies:
>
> 1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
> aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
> forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
> off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control
> horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all
> flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
> aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all
> panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
> flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
> You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
>
> Bobby Hargrave
> 80706 N426NC
>
> Cell. 901.834.1281
> home 850.473.9105
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
Subject: | RE: Weak wing theory |
Just looked at Larry's weak wing theory web page, I offer one more RV8 wing
detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was rather
shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures
occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the
wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross
sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must
significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill a
big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural
member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to
the termination of the wing spar flange bars.
I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no
problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too, if
anyone has designed something please advise.
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM: fill and sand, fill and sand...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry -xlax-
Lovisone
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 9:39 AM
Ed Storo (E-mail)
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Control Problems
Hiya Bobby...
Thanks for the info... I plan on subsisting plain nuts with self locking
nuts...
Every completed and flying RV8 pushes me on...
I've been busy redesigning and machining custom throttles to replace the
stock lawn mover
looking controls...
http://www.rvators.com/larry/pic1/TQuadRed.JPG
Larry xlax Lovisone USAF ret.
The Busy Little Machine Shop
RV8 weak wing theorist
http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV"@matronics.com
From: | Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems |
I have found after building several RVs, 6s and a 4 that the jam nuts will
loosen because of the over rotation of the hemie bearing that they are to
lock. To have the given up and down degrees of the controls they have to
rotate more than a regular hookup with a bolt and possibly washers will
allow. Van sells a special washer that is 3/16" or bolts size with a
outside diameter that is small enough for the bearing to freely rotate over
it and will correct your problem. If you donot use the washers you will
always loosen the jam nut or twist the control tube if you lock everything
tight. I am not in my shop withmaterial information to give you the
numbers of the washers, but if you want more information just return mail.
I don't know if Van sends them in the kit and we don't find them, but I
have always orders a dozen or so for each airplane that I have put together.
This is a necessary item to check on all of the RV series planes.
Ralph Koger RV-6A N16RK
>
>1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
>aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
>forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
>off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control
>horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all
>flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
>aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all
>panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
>flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
>You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
>
>Bobby Hargrave
>80706 N426NC
>
>Cell. 901.834.1281
>home 850.473.9105
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Weak Wing Theory (Van's reply)... |
I sent Van's the Weak Wing Theory - their reply follows:
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Risan <support(at)vansaircraft.com>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory...
the one wing that has failed did not fail at this location.
an analysis was done on this area both before the kit was released
and after the accident....determined that it was not a structural
problem.
if you had seen the loading of these wings during testing, you would
not be concerned about pulling a wing off.
the simple fact is ....the manuvering speed of the -8 is about
140mph, the cruise speeds are upwards of 180mph...if the airplane
isn't flown with respect, it can be broken.
if you fly the plane within the designed parameters...+6, -3 G's,
you will not have a problem.
scott at van's
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory...
> I'm about ready to order the RV-8, and got the following from the RV List.
> Please comment on this post, and the Weak Wing Website, and give me a warm
> feeling that the wing won't snap on me!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Ludwig, Tucson
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> "Just looked at Larry's weak wing theory web page, I offer one more RV8
wing
> detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was
rather
> shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures
> occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the
> wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross
> sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must
> significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill
a
> big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural
> member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to
> the termination of the wing spar flange bars.
>
> "I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no
> problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too,
if
> anyone has designed something please advise.
>
> ~ Greg Miller ~
>
> RV-8 Weak Wing Website: http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | RV-List: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory (Van's reply)... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
I sent Van's the Weak Wing Theory - their reply follows:
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Risan <support(at)vansaircraft.com>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory...
the one wing that has failed did not fail at this location.
an analysis was done on this area both before the kit was released
and after the accident....determined that it was not a structural
problem.
if you had seen the loading of these wings during testing, you would
not be concerned about pulling a wing off.
the simple fact is ....the manuvering speed of the -8 is about
140mph, the cruise speeds are upwards of 180mph...if the airplane
isn't flown with respect, it can be broken.
if you fly the plane within the designed parameters...+6, -3 G's,
you will not have a problem.
scott at van's
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory...
> I'm about ready to order the RV-8, and got the following from the RV List.
> Please comment on this post, and the Weak Wing Website, and give me a warm
> feeling that the wing won't snap on me!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Ludwig, Tucson
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> "Just looked at Larry's weak wing theory web page, I offer one more RV8
wing
> detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was
rather
> shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures
> occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the
> wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross
> sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must
> significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill
a
> big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural
> member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to
> the termination of the wing spar flange bars.
>
> "I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no
> problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too,
if
> anyone has designed something please advise.
>
> ~ Greg Miller ~
>
> RV-8 Weak Wing Website: http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory (Van's reply)... |
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Risan <support(at)vansaircraft.com>
> To: Bill Ludwig
> Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 3:49 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory...
>
> the one wing that has failed did not fail at this location.
Question Mr. Scott... Please state to all the RV8 builders the exact station at
which wing did fail???
>
> an analysis was done on this area both before the kit was released
> and after the accident....determined that it was not a structural
> problem.
Mr. Scott... Please... may interested RV8 builders read this analysis???
>
>
> if you had seen the loading of these wings during testing, you woul not be
> concerned about pulling a wing off.
Please Mr. Scott... State to all interested RV8 builders the total weight in
pounds and at what wing station location loads were applied...
>
>
> the simple fact is ....the manuvering speed of the -8 is about
> 140mph, the cruise speeds are upwards of 180mph...if the airplane isn't flown
> with respect, it can be broken.
Sir... Are you saying John Morgan flew N58RV that day without "respect"???
>
>
> if you fly the plane within the designed parameters...+6, -3 G's,
> you will not have a problem.
Mr. Scott... How can the average pilot maneuver within the design parameters
when a experienced company pilot such as John Morgan with 10,000 hours total
time... 1300 hours in RV's... maneuver that day believing he was well within
the designed parameters of 6+... -3 G's???
Mr. Scott... can you name one training aircraft that has never experienced an
in-flight failure???
Thank you...
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Subject: | Baffle air deflectors? |
Hi all,
I guess I'm going to have to install some sort of air deflectors on the baffles.
The front
cylinders are about 60 deg F cooler than the rear, and the rear cylinders are redlined
at 500 deg F
during climb unless I maintain 120 kts climb speed. Since I can't find any drawing
of these
deflectors in the prints (RV-8, note- I didn't say they weren't there, just that
I can't find them)
I'd like to see some pictures of what others have installed. If anyone can point
me to photos
online, or e-mail some to me, I'd be ever-so-grateful. The other thing I'd like
to know, is whether
the deflectors lowered the rear cylinder temps any. If the deflectors don't lower
the rear cylinder
temps, I won't install them until I find some way to get the overall CHT's down.
No sense in
redlining all 4 cylinders for the sake of being even.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (flying 5hrs, installing wheel pants now)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Looking for Herb Ross |
Anyone who knows how to get in touch with Herb Ross (used to live in
Tucson - maybe still does), please send me the info.
Thanks,
- Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
RV List ,
list-glasair ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket ,
list-rv8
Subject: | Gretz Aero Products website up again |
Greeting to the list,
I was having some problems with my online order form, but I am glad to
report it is back up and running.
If you check out my website at the address of:
http://www.gretzaero.com and you wish to place an online order it
will now be working correctly.
By the way, I have a new shippment of HEATED PITOT TUBES, and my
MOUNTING BRACKET KITS ready for shippment as always.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
Is anyone familiar with an O-360F1A6 (C-172RG) installed on an RV-8? Van's
thought that it would probably work, but I might have to modify the cowl for
the forward prop governor. Here's the description from the back of my
construction manual:
"Similar to O-360A series with new sump for nose wheel clearance. Rear HA-6
carburator has (1) sixth and (1) eighth order counterweights and has governor
drive on left front of crankcase."
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
FB Meeds
RV-8QB
Tailfeathers finished
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
Subject: | HELP with RV-8 Boo-Boo (ASAP) |
This is my first attempt at posting a message, I hope my protocol is correct.
My project is a RV-8. Currently working on
my HORAZONTAL STABILIZER. I think I just made my first BIG error. My concern
is that I was too aggressive when
trimming the ears off HS-814 (to clear the rib flange and skin). Sent a picture
to Van's and from eyeballing it they though I
should replace HS-814. Oh @#@#, was just ready to skin the darn thing. I think
that when I mate the Horz Stab to the
fuselage I won't have the edge clearance on the outside AN3,10-3 bolt of HS-814.
To help me determine this, is there an
"8" builder out there that can from his full size plans or actually measuring the
width of the fuselage (to the outside of the
F-887 Longerons) (DWG-27) at the bolt line through HS-814? This may help me determine
if I have to chance destroying
my Stab trying to drill out the 14 rivets on HS-814. The thought makes me shudder.
If any HELPERS could email me
direct or call me collect at pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com or 515-277-4173. Boy I feel
like a dope, thanks in advance for any
assistance.
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: HELP with RV-8 Boo-Boo (ASAP) |
> To help me determine this, is there an
> "8" builder out there that can from his full size plans or actually
measuring the width of the fuselage (to the outside of the
> F-887 Longerons) (DWG-27) at the bolt line through HS-814? This may help
me determine if I have to chance destroying
> my Stab trying to drill out the 14 rivets on HS-814. The thought makes me
shudder
Jack,
No need to feel bad, I don't think there is a builder on the list who hasn't
committed a much worse faux paux. Don't worry, you will too! Regarding your
HS-814 spacing, I just measured mine for you. You need 7 5/8 from bolt
center to bolt center, and 8 3/8 for the width of the flange that rests on
the rear fuselage deck. Caveat: these are the dimensions from MY plane,
yours may vary slightly but I think these are good dimensions +/- 1/16".
Take a deep breath, and be glad Van's replacement parts are very reasonably
priced, I have certainly bought my share.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, fwf
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "A. W. Triff" <tekrep(at)wans.net> |
Subject: | HELP with RV-8 Boo-Boo (ASAP) |
Don't sweat it Jack, if the dim.s randy gave you look like they'll work,
You'll be OK, if not, contact me off-line and maybe I can help- I have 2
spare FWD spars and some spare 814s. Don't ask why, but it has to do with
making mistakes ;-).
Wes Triff
F-1 Rocket
Atlanta
> To help me determine this, is there an
> "8" builder out there that can from his full size plans or actually
measuring the width of the fuselage (to the outside of the
> F-887 Longerons) (DWG-27) at the bolt line through HS-814? This may help
me determine if I have to chance destroying
> my Stab trying to drill out the 14 rivets on HS-814. The thought makes me
shudder
Jack,
No need to feel bad, I don't think there is a builder on the list who hasn't
committed a much worse faux paux. Don't worry, you will too! Regarding your
HS-814 spacing, I just measured mine for you. You need 7 5/8 from bolt
center to bolt center, and 8 3/8 for the width of the flange that rests on
the rear fuselage deck. Caveat: these are the dimensions from MY plane,
yours may vary slightly but I think these are good dimensions +/- 1/16".
Take a deep breath, and be glad Van's replacement parts are very reasonably
priced, I have certainly bought my share.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00 |
Does anyone write to this page? If so, I am going to build an RV-8. I would
like to know if anyone has successfully installed an 6 cylinder engine
instead of the normal 4 cylinder.
Jonathan
av8trqa(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
Subject: | 6 Cyl in an RV-8 |
Hi Jonathan, I haven't heard of anyone who's done it yet, but I may be
wrong.
However, I would strongly advise against it. You will have to reinforce the
firewall, design and build your own engine mount and cowling, you will have
cooling problems (the RV-8 cowling is already a tight fit), you will have
CofG problems, you may have to reinforce the landing gear and other parts,
you will give up some precious useful load, and you will have no support
from Van's. On top of that, the increased weight and enlarged cowling will
rob you of a lot of that extra speed the engine would otherwise provide.
The RV-8 with a 200HP and CS Prop is already a real rocket, and it is a
delightfully well balanced aircraft. If you are after more top speed, I
would recommend you tweakup an IO-360 and pay close attention to the
aerodynamics. You'll save a ton of time and money, and will end up with a
much better airplane that is probably just as fast.
If you want a 300 mph airplane, than the RV-8 is not the right choice.
Sylvain Duford
Bellevue, WA
RV-8 Fuselage
N-130RV Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: <AV8TRQA(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 7:23 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00
>
> Does anyone write to this page? If so, I am going to build an RV-8. I
would
> like to know if anyone has successfully installed an 6 cylinder engine
> instead of the normal 4 cylinder.
> Jonathan
> av8trqa(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear builders,
I am building a RV8 in Germany. Presently my cowling and the baffles have to be
installed. I am looking for a solution for my air filter box.
As I can remember our club Mooney 201 a couple of years ago, it had a Ram Air
system and an air filter box. I intended to install the same system in my RV8
but couldn't remember the proper installation or couldn't drawings or
descriptions of it.
The problem lies in the ram air. I saw a couple of aeroplanes in Oshkosh which
had a clean tube just in front of the injection pump but no filter box. I would
like to combine the filter box with an optional ram air system, similar to the
Mooney.
Questions are:
1. Does a T form of a ram air tube with a side inlet from a filter box influence
the air stream characteristic of the inlet?
2. What other solution could work?
3. Which kind of air filter did you use?
4. Is one or even more parts from the system available from one of your shops?
5. What would be the part numbers of those items?
6. Is any kind of drawing available?
I take any advice and help I can get.
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
C/S: D-EBRV (80303)
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00 |
Jon, Most folks are on the straight RV list and not on the RV8 list. But
to answer your question, there has been at least one guy who put an 0-540 in
his -8. Somebody on the RV-list will know who it is.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: AV8TRQA(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00
>Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 10:23:57 EDT
>
>
>Does anyone write to this page? If so, I am going to build an RV-8. I would
>like to know if anyone has successfully installed an 6 cylinder engine
>instead of the normal 4 cylinder.
> Jonathan
> av8trqa(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 6 Cyl in an RV-8 |
Recently a RV-8 with an IO-540 showed up in one of the magazines(I think it
was the RV-ator). Don't know who built it but Van's should be able to tell
you.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00 |
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson [SMTP:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 05:31
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00
It has been done by Joe underwood & Tom Williamson, Indianapolis, In.
There is a picture of it in the first issue of the RVator this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 06/24/00 |
Hi johnathan
Yes, someone was at Sun&Fun with a 6 cylinder. I'm not sure if it was a
Lycoming or Franklin though.
Jim
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: | Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand!
What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8? It seems
everyone has their throttle quadrant on the left and stick set up for the
right hand. But why? I learned to fly in a Cessna 140, left hand on the
yoke and right hand on the throttle. Was it because the Cubs, etc. had the
doors on the right side? Will my test pilot / instructor be able to fly my
8 if I have a right hand throttle? Oh well, I still have plenty of time to
ponder it, just starting to skin my HS.
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
Subject: | Air compressor/tools suggestions? |
I've just ordered my preview plans after deciding to build the -8. I have
no air tools in my shop, but am getting ready to clean out the garage and
get things set up.
What should I look for in a compressor? I have room for one of those big
upright jobs, but what I am more concerned about is being "quiet" for the
family and neighbors. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the
"oil-free" compressors are noiser than their oiled siblings.
Any suggestions? What air pressure range do I need to run my air tools and
HVLP sprayer?
Any preference on brand of tools? I'm new to this, so please excuse my
"simple" questions!
Troy Whistman
Fort Worth, TX
-8 Preview (plans on the way)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Subject: | Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
> Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand!
> What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8? It seems
> everyone has their throttle quadrant on the left and stick set up for the
> right hand. But why? I learned to fly in a Cessna 140, left hand on the
> yoke and right hand on the throttle. Was it because the Cubs, etc. had
the
> doors on the right side? Will my test pilot / instructor be able to fly
my
> 8 if I have a right hand throttle? Oh well, I still have plenty of time
to
> ponder it, just starting to skin my HS.
>
> Jack Textor
> Des Moines, IA
> Empennage
I feel your pain :-)
Like it or not, the "standard" for tandem aircraft seems to be right hand
stick, and left hand throttle. I imagine it would be easy for Van's to
offer a right hand throttle arrangement, by asking their computer to make a
mirror image of the parts, but I doubt they've had enough requests to
justify doing it. You can certainly make your plane the way you want it,
but it will require a bit of effort to make new parts for the side consoles,
and you will have to negotiate the baggage compartment on the right side.
Both of these are quite doable, but keep in mind that it may be a little
harder to sell someday.
Out of curiosity, are you primarily right handed, or left handed? It would
be a first for me to hear of a right handed person requesting a right hand
throttle, though it seems logical since that's how most of us learned to
fly. I'm left handed, and learning to fly in side by side aircraft was the
only break I ever got (still waiting for those left handed scissors the
school promised me when I was young). My previous plane was a Kolb
SlingShot, which I set it up with a right hand throttle, but left the
original left hand throttle attachments intact for future owners. When time
came to decide about my RV-8, I sold out and joined the left hand throttle
crowd. It had really become more of an issue of principle than a real
problem. After all, there really aren't any complete lefties past the age
of maybe 5, because most of the world is set up for right handed people, so
you learn to be ambidextrous.
Anyway, I'd suggest getting some dual in a tandem plane if you can find
one. This will give you a taste for right hand stick operations. It will
seem awkward until you actually start flying the plane, then you'll be
concentrating on more important things and won't even notice that you're
using the wrong hand. Once you get a feel for it, you can decide if you
want to move the throttle.
Good luck,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587 (flying 10 hours with the wrong hand)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Air compressor/tools suggestions? |
My 2 cents. The big uprights are overkill and normally require 220 v. If
you want a quiet compressor, go with a Quincy from Harbor Freight. Harbor
can also get you good pricing on HVLP spray guns (I use a two-part epoxy
primer, Akzo from Aircraft Spruce), and having an HVLP allows me to do a lot
of work without worrying about overspray. Re: tools, I bought a Sioux "palm
size" air drill which was over kill, but everyone who's seen it has fallen
in love with it. Before it is over the drill will become part of your right
hand. It is key, key, key to get a good rivet gun. I use a Tatco, but I
guess some are better than others. You didn't ask, but for a squeezer you
cannot beat Avery's.
Rick Jory, RV8A QB
-----Original Message-----
From: Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com>
Date: Monday, June 26, 2000 12:42 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Air compressor/tools suggestions?
>
>I've just ordered my preview plans after deciding to build the -8. I have
>no air tools in my shop, but am getting ready to clean out the garage and
>get things set up.
>
>What should I look for in a compressor? I have room for one of those big
>upright jobs, but what I am more concerned about is being "quiet" for the
>family and neighbors. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the
>"oil-free" compressors are noiser than their oiled siblings.
>
>Any suggestions? What air pressure range do I need to run my air tools and
>HVLP sprayer?
>
>Any preference on brand of tools? I'm new to this, so please excuse my
>"simple" questions!
>
>Troy Whistman
>Fort Worth, TX
>-8 Preview (plans on the way)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
Subject: | Air compressor/tools suggestions? |
Rick,
Thanks for the tips... based on a post in the r.a.h. newsgroup, I did order
a Harbor Freight HVLP gun; I'll take a look at their compressors too! I
ordered my gun about 2 weeks ago and haven't seen it yet, I think they
shipped it Camel Express. Do orders from them normally take that long? I
did email their customer service, and was told it had shipped the same day
as my order, but no tracking number. Hmmmmm....
Troy
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Jory [mailto:rickjory(at)email.msn.com]
you want a quiet compressor, go with a Quincy from Harbor Freight. Harbor
can also get you good pricing on HVLP spray guns (I use a two-part epoxy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christine & Arthur" <act(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Subject: | Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
Jack,
As an instructor I fly right hand yoke left hand throttle, on charter work
its the other way around. I am naturally right handed but I do not notice
any difference. As far as flying is concerned what you learned to do with
you left hand your brain will change to doing with your right hand so easily
that you are not likely to even notice the difference.
Cheers,
Arthur Whitehead
RV-8 Deburing and dimpling for installation of aft upper skin.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor
> Sent: Tuesday, 27 June 2000 06:23
> To: RV-8-List (E-mail); RV-List (E-mail)
> Subject: RV8-List: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle???
>
>
> Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand!
> What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8? It seems
> everyone has their throttle quadrant on the left and stick set up for the
> right hand. But why? I learned to fly in a Cessna 140, left hand on the
> yoke and right hand on the throttle. Was it because the Cubs,
> etc. had the
> doors on the right side? Will my test pilot / instructor be able
> to fly my
> 8 if I have a right hand throttle? Oh well, I still have plenty
> of time to
> ponder it, just starting to skin my HS.
>
> Jack Textor
> Des Moines, IA
> Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | StevePrull(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
Jack -
I'm an instructor to, so I realize that it ultimately doesn't matter - one
can get used to either configuration. However, most people see the left hand
throttle as the conventional placement, and if you ever sell the plane, I
think it would be helpful to have the throttle in the 'usual' place...
working on the empennage...
Steve Prull, Bend , Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Air compressor/tools suggestions? |
Troy,
Your right the oiled ones are quieter. I went through the same debates and
finally ended up with a portable upright from Sears (Craftsmen) 30 gallon. I
plumbed the garage with 1/2" 600 psi PVC and the portable just plugs in. I
plan on moving the project to a hanger when the wings go on so the portable
will be nice, and it is 110V. No need to run a dedicated 220V line. It has
worked great and the noise is not as bad as I thought. I run 60 to 80 psi
out of the regulator for drilling and riveting.
Tom Norton
Tboltii(at)aol.com
Finishing Rudder -8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 LG box issue - interference with F-802P |
I just found a new LG box issue yesterday. I've got interference
between the head of one of the AN470 rivets on the back side of the
LB boxes and the F-802P support angle. You install the F-802P when
working on the mid-cabin covers, which are flat pieces that go
between the LG box and the top of the F-804, on each side. The pilot
holes on my F-802B differed from that shown on the plans. If my
parts were like the plans (DWG 24, R2), I would have been OK. Your
parts may be different.
The F-802P is a piece of 3/4 wide angle that mounts horizontally on
the back side of the F-802B. Its outboard end almost touches the
inner edge of the F-844. The top of the F-802P sits 0.063" lower
than the top of the F-844. Basically, you don't want any AN470 rivet
heads in the area inboard and below the inner edge of the F-844.
If I had to do it again, I would probably not drill the hole for the
rivet that gave me trouble. You end up drilling a hole to rivet the
outboard end of the F-802P anyway, so there will be another rivet
going in that area later anyway.
I ended up doing some creative carving of the outboard ends of my
F-802P to get it to around the rivet.
I posted a picture which identifies the offending rivet on my RV-8
Landing Gear Box page:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/fuselage/f06.html
The picture is at the end of the list of Gotchas.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/28/00 |
Do not get too relieved yet, In the next phase when you start to do the gear
mounting you will find that there are other rivet interferances when you try
to mount
U806 AND U805. Although no creative grinding is necessary, some creative nut
holding is called for. If your wife's hand will fit though the small hole at
the bottom of 802C you will be ok. One caution. If you are doing a rear
mounting battery, pay attention to the suggested change of routing for the
battery cable through F802 as it can interfere with the fuel return line or
break lines. When mounting U806 and U805 pay attention to the distance from
the edge as the angle can pohibit the nut from sitting properly if it is too
close to the angle. While its accessable, mark the center line of the angle
F843 on the OUTSIDE so when you drill for the mounting bolts you have good
clearance. Views for discussion are on DWG35.
Jim.
RV* QB
Tail, Wings, Fuse = 3/4
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 07/03/00 |
Please remove me from the rv8-list since i do not really receive any messages
just the headers. I will stay on the rv-list. I have already sent you an
e-mail to change my address for it.
Thanks, Tom Calvanelli
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
\"Ben Ransom\"" ,
"Dennis Souder" ,
"Bruce Daughtry" ,
"Jeff Banks" ,
"Michael Fry" ,
"John Henley"
Subject: | 15 hour report (long but with goodies at the end) |
Greetings from hot, hazy, Florida.
My RV-8 has been flying since June 1st, and I now have 15 hours on it,
including more rolls than I can count, and one loop. So far, there have
been more problems with the pilot than the plane :-)
CHT's: High CHT's in climb on the rear cylinders have been by my biggest
problem. On the first few flights, the CHT's would redline before I could
even hit pattern altitude unless I held at least 120 kts. Van's said don't
do anything to "fix" it until the (new O-360) engine gets at least 25 hours
on it. Lycoming said to check the baffles, and timing. Well, the timing
for both mags was about 28-29 degrees from the factory, and I reset them to
25. Maybe that helped a little. The baffles seal quite well, but I did put
3 of Van's blast tube hoses in the rear wall of the baffle for the mags and
gascolator. I plugged up the two for the mags, and that probably made a bit
more improvement. Those two improvements, coupled with a possible temp
reduction from engine break-in have given me some optimism. If I get to the
close end of the runway without wasting too much time, I can have a
departure CHT of about 160C (320F), and the climb CHT never exceeds 210C
(410F) by the time I have to level out at 1400 ft, even with a climb speed
of 90kts. If I get delayed on the ground, and the CHT gets to 190C (374F)
before departure, the climb speed will hit 240C (464F) by the time I get to
1400 ft. I'm currently using 240C as my max temp for normal operation, and
increase the airspeed as necessary to keep from exceeding that. The early
flights hit 260C (500F) temporarily.
Instruments: I can't read the GPS very well. It will have to be angled
toward me when I get around to it. My biggest disappointment is with the
electric RC Allen attitude indicator. This thing seems to be off level
every time I look at it. I cage it during straight and level flight, and in
a few minutes, after some gentle turns, it seems to show about a 10 degree
bank. The DG behaves well, but the AI scares me. After all, I installed it
as basic life support for night flying and Summer haze conditions. At this
point, I can't trust it. I'll probably watch it some more, then call the
manufacturer and ask about it.
Trim: No trim problems really. There may be just the slightest left wing
heavy condition. I have to move the mechanical aileron trim slightly
towards the right trim direction with even fuel. Of course, with the
friction of the aileron trim setup in the -8, it's hard to tell exactly
where center really is. I'm content that it's close enough for now. The
ball is dead center in cruise, so no rudder trim is needed. Elevator
mechanical trim is working just dandy, and the elevator is in trail during
cruise flight, so no horz stab adjustments will be needed.
Speeds: Power off stall clean is 55kts indicated, and with flaps is 50 kts
indicated. Stall occurs with lots of buffet and noise, very unlike the RV-6
that I checked out in. I've been trying to use 80kts on final, and 75 or so
over the fence, with full flaps. This works pretty well. Half flaps float
like you wouldn't believe, but will probably be better when there is a
passenger. Currently, the plane is unpainted, and the glass work is very
rough. Wheel pants are on, but no leg fairings or intersection fairings.
75% power cruise at about 7000 ft is roughly averaging 168 kts (193 mph)
with 180 hp, and a Sensenich 85" pitch prop. I have no doubt that I will
make the tail number (N174KT) in cruise when all the cleanup is done, and I
have more space to really let things settle out. Vx with be tough to
determine until I get the CHT's a bit lower, but Vy is 90-100 kts and about
1700 fpm at 1000 ft. Even at 10,000 feet the other day, I was still seeing
over 1000 fpm climb :-) Best glide has yet to be determined (shame on me).
Aerobatics: Rolls are easy, and have been entered from 120-160 kts. My
only loop was a non-event (for the plane). I entered it at 150kts with a
3.5G pull-up, had 70kts over the top, and 160kts on the back side. More of
this to come.
Test area: Waaaaay to damn small. I got stuck with a 25 mile radius, and
I'm quite sick of it already. I'm also pretty sure that Pensacola approach
is tired of having me circling around over their class C airspace squawking
1200. Maybe they'll put in a word with the FSDO to get my area increased.
Test time: 40 hours is too long for an RV-8 with a new engine and Sensenich
prop. By the time I hit 25 hours, I'll be completely done with any testing
I can think of, and just wasting fossil fuel at $2.35/gal.
Video: What? Video??? Remember when I asked about video camera mounts?
The RAM mount is perfecto! I've shot a couple flight's worth of video, and
will post some small clips. In fact, the first clip is a quick (and sloppy)
aileron roll in mpg format. There are 2 files. One is pretty good quality
@ 4.1 mb, and the other is crappy quality @ .5 mb. You can find them at:
http://www.my.ispchannel.com/~rv8/index.html
That's all for now,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587 (flying-15 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: 15 hour report (long but with goodies at the end) |
It sounds like you have a real winner there...congrats!...I am seriously
thinking of a RV-8 A..but I need to find one that is almost completed, as I'm
growing older---fast....again, congrats!..jolly in aurora, ore.
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> Greetings from hot, hazy, Florida.
>
> My RV-8 has been flying since June 1st, and I now have 15 hours on it,
> including more rolls than I can count, and one loop. So far, there have
> been more problems with the pilot than the plane :-)
>
> CHT's: High CHT's in climb on the rear cylinders have been by my biggest
> problem. On the first few flights, the CHT's would redline before I could
> even hit pattern altitude unless I held at least 120 kts. Van's said don't
> do anything to "fix" it until the (new O-360) engine gets at least 25 hours
> on it. Lycoming said to check the baffles, and timing. Well, the timing
> for both mags was about 28-29 degrees from the factory, and I reset them to
> 25. Maybe that helped a little. The baffles seal quite well, but I did put
> 3 of Van's blast tube hoses in the rear wall of the baffle for the mags and
> gascolator. I plugged up the two for the mags, and that probably made a bit
> more improvement. Those two improvements, coupled with a possible temp
> reduction from engine break-in have given me some optimism. If I get to the
> close end of the runway without wasting too much time, I can have a
> departure CHT of about 160C (320F), and the climb CHT never exceeds 210C
> (410F) by the time I have to level out at 1400 ft, even with a climb speed
> of 90kts. If I get delayed on the ground, and the CHT gets to 190C (374F)
> before departure, the climb speed will hit 240C (464F) by the time I get to
> 1400 ft. I'm currently using 240C as my max temp for normal operation, and
> increase the airspeed as necessary to keep from exceeding that. The early
> flights hit 260C (500F) temporarily.
>
> Instruments: I can't read the GPS very well. It will have to be angled
> toward me when I get around to it. My biggest disappointment is with the
> electric RC Allen attitude indicator. This thing seems to be off level
> every time I look at it. I cage it during straight and level flight, and in
> a few minutes, after some gentle turns, it seems to show about a 10 degree
> bank. The DG behaves well, but the AI scares me. After all, I installed it
> as basic life support for night flying and Summer haze conditions. At this
> point, I can't trust it. I'll probably watch it some more, then call the
> manufacturer and ask about it.
>
> Trim: No trim problems really. There may be just the slightest left wing
> heavy condition. I have to move the mechanical aileron trim slightly
> towards the right trim direction with even fuel. Of course, with the
> friction of the aileron trim setup in the -8, it's hard to tell exactly
> where center really is. I'm content that it's close enough for now. The
> ball is dead center in cruise, so no rudder trim is needed. Elevator
> mechanical trim is working just dandy, and the elevator is in trail during
> cruise flight, so no horz stab adjustments will be needed.
>
> Speeds: Power off stall clean is 55kts indicated, and with flaps is 50 kts
> indicated. Stall occurs with lots of buffet and noise, very unlike the RV-6
> that I checked out in. I've been trying to use 80kts on final, and 75 or so
> over the fence, with full flaps. This works pretty well. Half flaps float
> like you wouldn't believe, but will probably be better when there is a
> passenger. Currently, the plane is unpainted, and the glass work is very
> rough. Wheel pants are on, but no leg fairings or intersection fairings.
> 75% power cruise at about 7000 ft is roughly averaging 168 kts (193 mph)
> with 180 hp, and a Sensenich 85" pitch prop. I have no doubt that I will
> make the tail number (N174KT) in cruise when all the cleanup is done, and I
> have more space to really let things settle out. Vx with be tough to
> determine until I get the CHT's a bit lower, but Vy is 90-100 kts and about
> 1700 fpm at 1000 ft. Even at 10,000 feet the other day, I was still seeing
> over 1000 fpm climb :-) Best glide has yet to be determined (shame on me).
>
> Aerobatics: Rolls are easy, and have been entered from 120-160 kts. My
> only loop was a non-event (for the plane). I entered it at 150kts with a
> 3.5G pull-up, had 70kts over the top, and 160kts on the back side. More of
> this to come.
>
> Test area: Waaaaay to damn small. I got stuck with a 25 mile radius, and
> I'm quite sick of it already. I'm also pretty sure that Pensacola approach
> is tired of having me circling around over their class C airspace squawking
> 1200. Maybe they'll put in a word with the FSDO to get my area increased.
>
> Test time: 40 hours is too long for an RV-8 with a new engine and Sensenich
> prop. By the time I hit 25 hours, I'll be completely done with any testing
> I can think of, and just wasting fossil fuel at $2.35/gal.
>
> Video: What? Video??? Remember when I asked about video camera mounts?
> The RAM mount is perfecto! I've shot a couple flight's worth of video, and
> will post some small clips. In fact, the first clip is a quick (and sloppy)
> aileron roll in mpg format. There are 2 files. One is pretty good quality
> @ 4.1 mb, and the other is crappy quality @ .5 mb. You can find them at:
> http://www.my.ispchannel.com/~rv8/index.html
>
> That's all for now,
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, 80587 (flying-15 hours)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: 15 hour report (long but with goodies at the end) |
Russ,
Thanks for the update. It's a shame about your CHT's, but on the
other hand, it's great to know you built a "straight" plane. Please keep the
updates coming. They really help us who are trying to finish our birds!
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> Greetings from hot, hazy, Florida.
>
> My RV-8 has been flying since June 1st, and I now have 15 hours on it,
> including more rolls than I can count, and one loop. So far, there have
> been more problems with the pilot than the plane :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
\"Hal Banks\"" ,
"Jeff Banks" , "Dennis Souder" ,
"Bruce Daughtry" ,
"Bobby Hargrave" ,
"Ben Ransom"
Subject: | 15 hour report correction |
> Video: What? Video??? Remember when I asked about video camera mounts?
> The RAM mount is perfecto! I've shot a couple flight's worth of video,
and
> will post some small clips. In fact, the first clip is a quick (and
sloppy)
> aileron roll in mpg format. There are 2 files. One is pretty good
quality
> @ 4.1 mb, and the other is crappy quality @ .5 mb. You can find them at:
> http://www.my.ispchannel.com/~rv8/index.html
Thanks to Bernie for pointing out that this link is bad. My isp changed the
URL, and I didn't notice that they leave off the www part now. The correct
link is: http://my.ispchannel.com/~rv8/index.html
Sorry,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
Subject: | Sender: owner-rv8-list-server |
Good morning friends,
I'm starting my Vertical Stab (RV8)and should start thinking about a lighting system.
I purchased
the rudder bottom designed to mount a light. Plan to use my 8 mostly during daylight
but want
some kind of system for occasional evening flying. Would like to keep cost as
low as possible.
Any suggestions? Should I drill VS for plasic conduit for tip light? Also, THANKS
to all that
helped with my HS814pp. It turned out fine!!! I have a spare for anybody that
needs one.
Thanks,
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
RV8 (HS almost closed and VS structure done)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sender: owner-rv8-list-server |
WTG Jack!
It sounds like you are well on your way. Low costs
are a great goal but one that I have found challenging
now that I'm finishing my fuse. Since most things are
one-time purchases for this aircraft I tend to simply
put in what I want and worry about the costs later. A
few dollars here and there won't matter in the long
run. An airplane seldom makes any financial sense
anyway . . . it's a purchase from the heart.
If I had it to do over, since I started in 8/96 I
would definitely spring for some nice tools right off
the back rather than picking them up one at a time.
Pneumatic squeezer with 4" jaws, angle drill, top
quality die grinder, cut off saw, etc . . ..
Keep up the good work.
Rob Miller RV8
209-848-4590
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | " bert" <bertrv(at)rdtnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 07/03/00 |
Tom:
The only way to remove your name from any list, is
doing it, the way the computer is set , to do this. I also
had some time, to get used to the system.
Untill some one told me, and also they remind me...
when everything fails,, read the insutructions???
Tom you have to go to the matronics list, and use
the unsubscribe, just follow directions..
hope this helps...
Bert
Do No Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/09/00 |
I would have to concur. I have been building since 3/99 and finishing up on
the fuse. At first I thought that I could save on tools $ and use
"comparable" tools. THIS DOSENT work. Having the "right" tool at the time
is mandatory to good workmanship. I have found that a quality tool lasts
much longer and makes the job faster and cleaner. I have the scrap to prove
it.
Tools which you cant have enough of are clamps, cleco's, small profile
electric drill, bench grinder, bench vise, and a tool that I have found to be
priceless is a Dremel hand grinder. Most of these tools do not come with the
starter kit. By the time you reach the need for these the cost of a starter
kit will be forgotten.
Jim E.
RV8 Fuse.
PA28-180
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Oshkosh Meeting of RV-8 Builders |
Hi, gang--
For the last few years, a bunch of RV-8 builders have gathered at
Oshkosh to meet and get to know one another. I've organized these
meetings at the Theater in the Woods and had great turnouts. It has
been great to cement friendships with people with whom I've chatted many
times online, grappling with the pains of building our dream planes. To
finally put faces with names has been really gratifying, and the mutual
support only further bolsters my determination to finish this project.
I'll be arriving at Oshkosh on Saturday, July 22nd--the weekend before
it actually cranks up--and leaving on Sunday, July 30th. I'm setting
aside a couple of meeting times if anyone is interested:
Thursday, July 27th, 10:00am
Sunday, July 30th, 10:00am
As before, we'll meet somewhere in the shade of the trees of the Theater
in the Woods. I'll try to remember to bring Sharpies and nametags for
everyone. Bob Dimeo is again in charge of the donuts (just kidding,
Bob!)
As always, everyone is welcome, whether building an -8(a) or not. Hope
to see you and put a face with a name. Any questions, give me a buzz.
--Don McNamara
N8RV (fuse...still)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
Good morning friends,
Working on my -8- rudder, cut stiffeners last night :( . As you know Van's
specifies using RTV sealer in the trailing edge of rudder and elevators.
Which sealer is best? Blue? Black? Also, learned today that if you use
acetone, make sure it's "virgin", not recycled. If recycled it apparently
is acidic.
Thanks!
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Canopy Skirt Problem |
Hey Guys,
I encountered a problem today with my canopy skirt. When
the plane is sitting inside out of the sun, the skirt hugs the fuselage so well
its hard to get a piece of 320 grit sandpaper between the two. Today, when I
took it outside in the sun, the skirt heated up and separated from the fuselage
about 1/8 of an inch. This bothers me and I was wondering if anyone else had
this problem and what you did to fix it. Thanks.
Joe Czachorowski
#80125 ( trying to paint this puppy)(I hate fiberglass!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Aux fuel pump placement |
Hello shortlisters
Why do you suppose the plans show the position of the
fuel pump to be inside the forward fuselage? By my
way of twisted thinking, I would prefer to mount the
pump on the left firewall with the gascolator
positioned in the center of the fw. Why or why not is
this possible?
Rob Miller
80153
running out of parts!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Those of you who have upholstery installed, what kind
of foam did you use in the seats, what thicknesses,
and what is your height? -- Sorry to get personal ;)
Thanks in advance
RE Miller
80153
________________________________________________________________________________
I went the very inexpensive route- A friend gave me some big pieces of gray
foam he had around the house. My wife and I cut it to fit in the seat and
around the stick with electric knife. Wife upholstered seats and entire
copit,Looks OK. Have less then $60.00 in all interior upholestery. But, my
butt after a 2.30 flight can feel the hinges in the floor where the
adjustment is. So At OSH next week will purchase the expensive foam and
re-do the seats. Wife has encouraged this purchase as she is my flying
partner. Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Room at OSH available |
Well, my on-again off-again plans for OSH are off again, at least for most
of it, so the room I had reserved will be available. This is a room with a
queen bed in a nice house with central air. The hostess, Sharon Hawkins,
provides continental breakfast. She works the EAA too so it should be
possible to catch a ride with her to and from the show when she goes. The
house is close to a bus line so you can get to/from that way too. Its
available for the whole show.
If interested, contact Sharon Hawkins, 920-232-8554.
Please email me if you get the room so I can get my deposit back.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "brian wallis" <brianpwallis(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RV8-wing kit needed |
Hello, I am an active duty ARMY helicopter(UH-60) crewchief building a RV-8.
I cannot afford to pay list price for everything. If anyone has a -8 wing
kit for sale I would be very grateful if anybody knows anyone who could help
me out. Thank you for your time.(and any parts or advice also)
Spc. Brian Wallis
A Co. 2-10 AVN REG
10414 S. Riva Ridge Lp.
Ft. Drum, NY 13602
(315-775-7913)
brianpwallis(at)hotmail.com
the tall goofy guy with a tail kit.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Room at OSH taken |
Looks like the room I posted at OSH (Sharon Hawkins') has been taken
(Charlie, be sure to let me and/or the list know if anything changes.)
I will in fact be going but not until Friday or Saturday, and I'll just
camp. Look forward to seeing y'all!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | terje.kobro(at)platou.com.by.fep1.mta.online.no.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.27 |
201-229-119-110)
Subject: | Aux fuel pump placement |
rob- did you check this one with vans's ??
terje kobro
81104-norway
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RE Miller [mailto:rmill2000(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: 22. juli 2000 04:07
> To: Rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Aux fuel pump placement
>
>
>
> Hello shortlisters
>
> Why do you suppose the plans show the position of the
> fuel pump to be inside the forward fuselage? By my
> way of twisted thinking, I would prefer to mount the
> pump on the left firewall with the gascolator
> positioned in the center of the fw. Why or why not is
> this possible?
>
> Rob Miller
> 80153
> running out of parts!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | New Windows Utility For SkyMap II/IIIC... |
Listers,
For those of you that have had the pleasure of flying with one of the
new Skyforce/King Skymap II or IIICs, I've been working on a Windows
application that you might be interested in. Its call SkyComm and
allows you to connect up your Windows 95/98/NT/2000 PC or laptop to
the RS232 serial port on the Skymap and manage a number of its internal
datasets. Some of SkyComm's features include Screen Shot Capture,
Upload/Download of up to 4000 characters to the Skymap's internal
Notepad for something like an online checklists etc., Upload/Download of
Waypoint and Route data, and Download of the Skymap's Logger database.
There's even a built in wiring diagram for the requisite RS232 cable! I
have just finished Version 1.0 and am considering this Beta 1. I have
setup a rather extensive web site for information on the application and
for its download.
If you have a SkyMap, you're going to want this program! Best of all,
its FREE! Well, I do ask that those that like it make a voluntary
List contribution... :-)
The URL for the site is listed below and can also now be found off the
main Matronics web site as well as the specific List web pages.
Please download the program and let me know what you think! Comments
should be directed to support(at)matronics.com
SkyComm Web Site
----------------
http://www.matronics.com/skycomm/
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Visions
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 15:04:25 HST
I need some ideas. Any of you that have the Visions Microsystems panel
on
board. Can you tell me where you placed you load sensor? I have all my
wires bundled together at the time. The sensor board has mounting
screws.
I hate thinking about just threading the power wire through it and
letting
it just hang. But I also don't want to drill any more holes through the
firewall unless I really need to.
Thanks for you ideas.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Mike,
I called Vision Microsystems about this. They said they
wanted it mounted between the Alternator and the Battery. They also
said it should be protected from heat and moisture. The best I could do
was to mount it near the battery box (on the firewall) and wrap it in
shrink wrap tape. It's just hanging there on the FAT alternator wire
but is held securely with the shrink-wrap tape. I fired the engine up,
pushed the ALT CB in and the amps started to register on the LED
display. It works fine but time will tell if the engine compartment
heat will bother it.
Joe Czachorowski
#80125 ( painting fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | New RV-9 List At Matronics! |
Hi RV Listers!
Due to popular demand, I have added a new RV9-List email forum to the
Matronics server. As you might have expected, the name of the list is:
rv9-list(at)matronics.com
and you may subscribe to it by going to the usual Subscription page
found at:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Be sure to scroll down to the newly added "RV9-List" and
"RV9-List-Digest" buttons on the Subscription page.
I have also added support in the Search Engine and Download sections for
the new List. These can be found at:
http://www.matronics.com/search
and
http://www.matronics.com/archives
respectivly.
Have fun, and best regards!!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin, Matronics.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Control Column Blues |
> Hello shortlisters!
>
> Has anyone had a problem with Control
> Column/Sticks/Pushrod installation. In a perfect
> world the pushrod that connects the two sticks
> floats
> effortlessly inside the control column . . . but not
> in my world, arrrgghhhh! My pushrod drags the
> bottom
> of the column when connected to the sticks. I have
> hogged out the column and shaved the rivet heads on
> the pushrod but still have some friction. Anyone
> been
> here and done this?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob Miller (Darn near ready to take up knitting)
> 80153
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Control Column Blues |
I believe Van's has updated the kits to fix this problem. My kit came with
F-839-1 instead of F-839. F-839-1 is an aluminum tube with tapered
pre-formed female threaded ends and no rivets that go inside the control
column. Mine came in a plastic baggie and is gold in color. That might be
your problem. My preview plans (DWG 25 R2 10/98) show F-839, but the plans
that came with my QB last month (DWG 25 R3 05/99) show F-839-1 and list that
as the change.
I assume you can get F-839-1 from Van's
>In a perfect
> world the pushrod that connects the two sticks
> floats
> effortlessly inside the control column . . . but not
> in my world, arrrgghhhh! My pushrod drags the
> bottom
> of the column when connected to the sticks. I have
> hogged out the column and shaved the rivet heads on
> the pushrod but still have some friction.
Greg King
RV-8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
Subject: | HELP with RV8 rudder bottom and platenut size |
I'm starting to assemble the bottom of RV8 rudder spar/rib. Do I leave the forward
flange of R404 on and drill it to match
the holes in the spar R802, R606PP and R405 and K1000-6 platenut? Also the plans
call out a 13/32 hole for the K1000-
6 platenut. It appears I need a hole 15/32 for the platenut to fit. If I drill
it 15/32 for the platenut on R405 the edge distance
will be will be quite close at 3/16. Thanks in advance for the help.
Jack Textor
RV8 - rudder
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Control Column Blues |
Rob--
You are not alone.
Many of us have been through the same thing. The solution is a new
weldment, not the redesigned connecting rod. I called Van's with this
knowledge prior to assembling the control column and was told that I'd
have to go ahead and assemble the control column and see if I had the
problem before attempting a fix. I was told that only a few had had
problems with this. It seemed pretty silly to waste time and materials
just to prove a point, but I did as instructed.
Indeed, the connecting rod scraped the bottom of the weldment tube, just
like the other builders had experienced. I called and was told to
"smack the weldment tube with a big hammer a few times" to make its
cross-section oval instead of round, thereby allowing clearance for the
connecting rod. Really. So, I did.
Now, the rod no longer bottomed-out against the weldment tube, but the
bolts on the ends of the connecting rod scraped the sides of the
weldment! Again, I called Van's and was told that they had "fixed the
problem by redesigning the connecting rod," and they would send me one.
They did. It didn't help.
I finally called and talked at length with Bill, and he agreed to send
me a new weldment, one that had been redesigned to raise the bolt
attachment point above the previous design, allowing the connecting rod
to swing freely within the weldment tube. Unfortunately, I had to be
firm in my resolve to eliminate any source of binding in the control
column, and press the issue until someone finally gave in and sent me
the correctly designed weldment.
My hope is that they have corrected this problem with all the new
weldments, and that a quick phone call to Van's would secure the right
weldment for you. Give it a try.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
RE Miller wrote:
>
> > Hello shortlisters!
> >
> > Has anyone had a problem with Control
> > Column/Sticks/Pushrod installation. In a perfect
> > world the pushrod that connects the two sticks
> > floats
> > effortlessly inside the control column . . . but not
> > in my world, arrrgghhhh! My pushrod drags the
> > bottom
> > of the column when connected to the sticks. I have
> > hogged out the column and shaved the rivet heads on
> > the pushrod but still have some friction. Anyone
> > been
> > here and done this?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Subject: | Re: Control Column Blues |
> > effortlessly inside the control column . . . but not
> > in my world, arrrgghhhh! My pushrod drags the
> > bottom
Rob,
Don was right on the money with his tale of woe and advice. Several of us
had the same problem, and the only acceptable solution in my mind is to get
a new weldment. The new one works, and the old one doesn't- simple as that.
I doubt Van's will give you any hassle about getting a new weldment.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, 80587 (Flew my first passenger today!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 08/06/00 |
My strongest suggestion is that:
1: It was bent on shippment - call vans for replacement!
2. Your looking at it incorrectly. - review the measurements.
3. Take pictures and send them to Scott at vans for a second opinion.
No one I know of (several) has experienced this.... Mine fit perfectly.
Jim
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: | Platenut hole size HELP |
Hello listers, Van's call out a hole size of 13/32 for the K1000-6 platenut.
Is 15/32 the correct size?
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Platenut hole size HELP |
Jack,
For any -6 nutplate the center hole should be no more than 3/16" with the
outer rivet holes being #40. I usually drill the center hole slightly
smaller than the 3/16. Just big enough for the screw to fit through.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)" , "RV-List
>(E-mail)"
>Subject: RV8-List: Platenut hole size HELP
>Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 07:36:35 -0500
>
>
>Hello listers, Van's call out a hole size of 13/32 for the K1000-6
>platenut.
>Is 15/32 the correct size?
>Thanks,
>Jack Textor
>RV8
>Des Moines, IA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Control Column Blues/Aftermath |
Thanks again to everyone who offered advice on the
scaping pushrod/control column. I called Van's today
and they are sending a replacement part, no questions
asked. Although if they knew there were defective
parts, it would have like to have been notified
instead of wasting two precious vacation days trying
to solve this problem.
But I wonder . . . if one of the pop rivet heads on
the pushrod that connects the two sticks were to snag
on the control column (it does drag unless a new part
is ordered) the pilot would initially not have any up
elevator. As more and more force would be needed to
break the pushrod free, the sudden input when the
rivet head let go would cause high, positive g-force.
Since many of the early kits seem to have this
defective part, I wonder if this could have possibly
caused the big accident. Evidence of such a problem
would almost certainly be destoyed in the post-crash
fire.
I know its just speculation, but its one of the few
things that would make sense.
Onward and upward
Rob Miller
80153
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: | Platte Nuts, Daaaa, Bingo!! |
Hi listers,
After revisiting the plans, manual and with your help, the light finally
came on for me. When helping with questions, don't assume the lister (me)
has a brain. Never having used plate nuts (learned to spell it too) I was
assuming the main hole should be drilled big enough for the actual body of
the plate nut to slide through (think this came from my old modeling days
using blind nuts). I now understand that usually the nut is mounted flush
with the structure and the main hole just has to be big enough for the bolts
to pass through before seating in the plate nut. Thank goodness I just
slowed down and ask for help, which saved me from drilling the rudder horn
and, spar and rib to large. Thanks Again!!
Jack
RV8 rudder
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Burlington Colorado Flyin |
Listers,
It is hard to believe but a year has almost past and it is again time
for the RV Builder's Dream Event in Burlington, Colorado. The 5th Annual
Burlington RV Flyin happens this year September 22nd-24th at ITR in
Eastern Colorado.
Events this year include a Poker Run and for you real competitive guys a
Speed Race. Awards judging also takes place so bring your pride and Joy
and take home a beautiful trophy.
Burlington is not for flying RV's only. No matter how you get there
there are forums on how to make it go faster and for the builders
amongst us lots of airplanes to look at and builder/flyers to answer
questions.
If you have MS-WORD http://www.geocities.com/zilik/Burlington.doc has
all the info. For those who do not have MS-WORD I have converted (poorly
mind you) the word document to html and this can be viewed by going to:
http:www.geocities.com/zilik/Burlington.html
So mark you calendars and come and visit us in Burlington, Colorado. The
best RV flyin in the US.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - 0-360-A1A 75 hrs and counting.
________________________________________________________________________________
Gang,
Many of you have been following my Sam James cowl project with interest. I
made some progress over the weekend after staring at it for about a month.
Staring didn't really help, but it did give me time to decide to just drill
a bunch of aluminum patches on to lock things in place which allowed me to
finally commit the position. New pics and comments can be found at...
http://www.rv-8.com/pgPlenumCowl.htm
Randy Lervold
#80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JD Doughty" <johndoughty(at)home.com> |
Subject: | RV8A quick build kit for sale |
Empennage is done. Rudder pedal/cables, contol arm, floor, flap actuator
and flap weldment and throttle panel
are installed. Electric aileron and elevator trim. QB wings and finish kit
are still in box. Engine mount and cowl were not ordered because I could
not decide which engine to use. 24K invested. Asking 19K.
johndoughty(at)home.com
219-933-7499 (Hammond, IN)
JD Doughty
JD Doughty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TonyKoenig(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8A quick build kit for sale |
Why are you selling? I live in Louisville, KY how far are you away from me?
Do you have any pictures?
Thanks Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JD Doughty" <johndoughty(at)home.com> |
Subject: | RV8A quick build kit for sale |
Tony, I have enjoyed building the aircraft. However, the wife does not
understand what a good kit Vans offers and we are having problems in regards
to the kids flying in it. I plan to purchase a production aircarft.
I am at the NW corner of Indiana approx. 8 hours from you.
I have two people flying in on Saturday to look at it. If you are
interested please check back to see if I sold it. I have two offers within
24 hrs so I think it is going to sell quickly,
JD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TonyKoenig(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8A quick build kit for sale
Why are you selling? I live in Louisville, KY how far are you away from me?
Do you have any pictures?
Thanks Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Hello,
Yesterday there was post regarding running the tail light wire in the front
of the rudder bottom. Could the individual who did that contact me re how
it was done and how it exited the fuselage. Like a dummy I didn't make
provisions for it before closing my VS and Rudder.
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com> |
please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil> |
Subject: | RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe |
Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List.
V/R,
David Foelker
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com> |
Subject: | RV4-List: (no subject) |
--> RV4-List message posted by: larry laporte
please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil> |
Subject: | RV-List: RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe |
--> RV-List message posted by: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO
Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List.
V/R,
David Foelker
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil> |
Subject: | RV4-List: RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe |
--> RV4-List message posted by: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO
Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List.
V/R,
David Foelker
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com> |
Subject: | RV-List: (no subject) |
--> RV-List message posted by: larry laporte
please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Masters, Donald" <donald.masters(at)lmco.com> |
Subject: | To: "'rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com'" |
un-subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Kit for sale |
Hello listers,
After 3.5 years in the Seattle area, I am moving back to Ottawa Canada. I
have decided to try and sell my kit rather risk moving it that far. Plus I
wont have the space to work on it for the next year or so. I will probably
start over with a Quick-Build then.
It is RV-8 Kit # 80047:
a.. the empennage is complete,
b.. the wings are ready to close,
c.. fuel tanks done by Don London,
d.. above are all epoxy primed inside and out,
e.. brand new fuselage kit, still in the crate.
f.. Van's wiring kit
g.. 3 DuckWorks lights (two landing, one taxi) (don't ask)
h.. AOA sensor mounted in left wing (no display)
i.. Was inspected twice by Jon Ammeter
j.. Will sell Air Compressor if you want it.
Located in Bellevue, WA
Make me an offer.
Sylvain Duford
425.260.1132
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler...", Albert
Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
Subject: | RV-List: RV-8 Kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sylvain Duford"
Hello listers,
After 3.5 years in the Seattle area, I am moving back to Ottawa Canada. I
have decided to try and sell my kit rather risk moving it that far. Plus I
wont have the space to work on it for the next year or so. I will probably
start over with a Quick-Build then.
It is RV-8 Kit # 80047:
a.. the empennage is complete,
b.. the wings are ready to close,
c.. fuel tanks done by Don London,
d.. above are all epoxy primed inside and out,
e.. brand new fuselage kit, still in the crate.
f.. Van's wiring kit
g.. 3 DuckWorks lights (two landing, one taxi) (don't ask)
h.. AOA sensor mounted in left wing (no display)
i.. Was inspected twice by Jon Ammeter
j.. Will sell Air Compressor if you want it.
Located in Bellevue, WA
Make me an offer.
Sylvain Duford
425.260.1132
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler...", Albert
Einstein
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin |
I drilled and clecoed the F-825 aft fuselage upper skin on my RV-8
yesterday, and I've got a couple of questions.
1. There is so specific mention in my manual about when to rivet this
skin in place (manual date 7/22/98). I assume that I can rivet it
any time now without causing any grief later. Comments?
2. You can't dimple the underlying skin and longeron, so I've got to
decide what to do. I could countersink the aft upper skin, but it is
only 0.025, which is a bit thin for countersinking. I'm considering
dimpling this skin, and countersinking the underlying side skin,
which is 0.032. Has anyone else done this and liked it, or had
problems?
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin |
Kevin,
When I put on my rear turtle deck skin, I countersunk the
longeron only. The skin and the bulkheads were dimpled. Now, here is
where you can make a real nice job. Right before you attach your skin to
the bulkheads, get some 3-M 2216 epoxy. I used this stuff all over my
plane (BTW this is not my idea but came from the guys in California who
are building RV's). Lay a small bead along the longerons and a larger
bead on the bulkheads. This stuff will fill in any gaps and will
basically eliminate any "puckers" in the skin.
Clecoe the skin down and use MEK to wipe off any excess exopy. Let
it sit a day. The next day, remove the clecoes and clean up the holes
"slightly" with and deburr bit. Now your ready to rivet and the skin
will not shift and you won't get tired of pulling clecoes out after every
rivet! However, when you rivet, BACK RIVET ONLY! Put your bucking bar
on the outside of the skin and rivet from the inside. I did 90 % of my
fuselage like that. You need a long back rivet set to clear the flange
of the bulkheads. Cleaveland Tools made me one up special (It's the same
back rivet set they sell for riveting control surfaces but longer). If
you need to use mine, let me know. My plane is almost done. I just
finished painting.
Joe
#80125
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> I drilled and clecoed the F-825 aft fuselage upper skin on my RV-8
> yesterday, and I've got a couple of questions.
>
> 1. There is so specific mention in my manual about when to rivet this
> skin in place (manual date 7/22/98). I assume that I can rivet it
> any time now without causing any grief later. Comments?
>
> 2. You can't dimple the underlying skin and longeron, so I've got to
> decide what to do. I could countersink the aft upper skin, but it is
> only 0.025, which is a bit thin for countersinking. I'm considering
> dimpling this skin, and countersinking the underlying side skin,
> which is 0.032. Has anyone else done this and liked it, or had
> problems?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin |
Joe,
Thanks for the reply. I've definitely got to learn more about this
3M 2216 stuff. You say to back rivet only - is this because you like
back riveting, or because the epoxy will be squeezed out leaving a
depression if you rivet the "normal" way?
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>Kevin,
> When I put on my rear turtle deck skin, I countersunk the
>longeron only. The skin and the bulkheads were dimpled. Now, here is
>where you can make a real nice job. Right before you attach your skin to
>the bulkheads, get some 3-M 2216 epoxy. I used this stuff all over my
>plane (BTW this is not my idea but came from the guys in California who
>are building RV's). Lay a small bead along the longerons and a larger
>bead on the bulkheads. This stuff will fill in any gaps and will
>basically eliminate any "puckers" in the skin.
>
> Clecoe the skin down and use MEK to wipe off any excess exopy. Let
>it sit a day. The next day, remove the clecoes and clean up the holes
>"slightly" with and deburr bit. Now your ready to rivet and the skin
>will not shift and you won't get tired of pulling clecoes out after every
>rivet! However, when you rivet, BACK RIVET ONLY! Put your bucking bar
>on the outside of the skin and rivet from the inside. I did 90 % of my
>fuselage like that. You need a long back rivet set to clear the flange
>of the bulkheads. Cleaveland Tools made me one up special (It's the same
>back rivet set they sell for riveting control surfaces but longer). If
>you need to use mine, let me know. My plane is almost done. I just
>finished painting.
>
>Joe
>#80125
>
>Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>>
>> I drilled and clecoed the F-825 aft fuselage upper skin on my RV-8
>> yesterday, and I've got a couple of questions.
>>
>> 1. There is so specific mention in my manual about when to rivet this
>> skin in place (manual date 7/22/98). I assume that I can rivet it
>> any time now without causing any grief later. Comments?
>>
>> 2. You can't dimple the underlying skin and longeron, so I've got to
>> decide what to do. I could countersink the aft upper skin, but it is
>> only 0.025, which is a bit thin for countersinking. I'm considering
>> dimpling this skin, and countersinking the underlying side skin,
>> which is 0.032. Has anyone else done this and liked it, or had
>> problems?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> --
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
>> Ottawa, Canada
>> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> . You say to back rivet only - is this because you like
> back riveting, or because the epoxy will be squeezed out leaving a
> depression if you rivet the "normal" way?
Kevin,
I do like back riveting better than the normal way only because it
is
almost "goof-proof." You don't get any "Smiles" from your rivet set because you
are smashing the rivet from underneath and placing a nice flat bucking bar on
top. This is especially important on concave surfaces like the turtle-deck.
The 2216 Epoxy will already be hard when it comes to rivet. Nothing squeezes
out. Also, another nice feature of the epoxy is that it fills all voids between
the skin and the flange. If you do choose to buck the rivets the conventional
way, your skin will be much nicer because a slight slip of the gun will not put
a
smile in your skin because the epoxy is behind it. I wish I could tell you where
to buy this stuff. I borrowed some from my brother. I'm sure someone on the
list knows.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
rv8 list
Subject: | Re: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin |
"Joseph W. Czachorowski" wrote:
> > Joe -- I bought a back-riveting set and bucking bar. But I was put
> > off by the stern instructions
> > from Avery's that "you must use 2 people, and if the set slips off it
> > will do serious damage to the
> > skin ..." etc. In my case, I try to do everything solo because of
> > the effort of lining someone up to
> > help when needed.
> >
> > Question therefore: Can you do this sort of back-riveting solo?
> >
> > Gordon
> > RV8. Just completed first tank :-}
>
> Gordon,
> Absolutely! Every place that I could physical reach
> both sides of the rivet I would back rivet by myself. I prefer to work
> solo when I can because I can control both ends and know exactly how
> much pressure to use. When you use a second person, you lose a little
> control.
>
> I too bought the Avery back rivet set (the long set with the bent
> neck). I did not like it at all! It was too hard to use and they were
> right, if you miss, you will have a real mess on your hands. I liked
> the idea of the small back rivet set (with the spring in it). The
> spring keeps the rivet guide against the rivet while your riveting and
> will not "walk." Cleveland Tools made me a 12" long set with a spring
> and it is worth it's weight in gold. You need the long set to clear the
> flanges with your gun. You cannot screw up. It's 1000% better than the
> long bent neck non-spring version. I just wish I discovered this
> before I did my wings. Try it. I guarantee you will like it.
>
> Joe
> RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
Subject: | RV-8 Wing Kit wanted |
Hi listers,
Still have to scrape up some cash (two kids in college) but thought I better
start looking for a wing kit (RV-8) preferably not started. Winter is a
coming, enjoy this weather while you can.
Thanks!
Jack Textor
Elevators RV-8
Des Moines, IA
515-243-7687 wk
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dr Ed.Holland" <cybershrink(at)tinet.ie> |
"RV8-List Digest Server"
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/13/00 |
-----------------------------------------------------
delete>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
Subject: | airflow performance FS |
I have a AP system for sale
It has been used for 50 hours on a O 360 A1A
I acquired a new Lyc IO 360 for my RV8 project and had to restore the other
one in its original state.
Anyone interested please contact me off list.
Arnold de Brie
ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Does anyone have an e-mail address for Jim Grubbs? He is building an
RV-8, and he seems to have grafted a forward facing injector onto an
O-360 so he could use the IO-360 cowl. I would be interested in
doing the same thing, so I would like to pick his brain.
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "rvs 4all" <rvs4all(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm looking for ANY type of RV project that's not completed beyond the
"quick build" state. Any kit that has been put together aesthetically
nicely and primed up to this point will be considered.
email me offline with info.
frank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vern Darley, 11" <vern(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | New Builder question |
I am taking the how to build an RV course in Griffin, GA this weekend. In anticipation
of beginning an RV-8 soon, I have a few questions.
1-I have seen some very fancy building jigs advertised. However, it seems that
the simple ones made of wood as in the plans are adequate. Any opinions out there?
2- What size air compressor is needed?
3-What size/manufacturer rivet gun is best. Any other tool vendors recomended?
4-Some have suggested glueing parts as well as riveting. Any thoughts?
Thanks! Vern
Peachtree City, Georgia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: New Builder question |
Vern--
Here are my opinions on your good questions:
> 1-I have seen some very fancy building jigs advertised. However, it seems that
the simple ones made of wood as in the plans are adequate. Any opinions out
there?
Building the jig per the plans with wood is not complicated. I'm not particularly
mechanically-minded, and I made it in a day. I measured carefully, and all
the
bulkheads seemed to line up fine and all my skins went on OK. Any boo-boos I have
don't seem to be related to any defect in my jig. So, unless you have a great
deal on a steel jig, just spend a few bucks on some wood and bolts and build it
like the plans. Then, if it's a good one, pass it on to some other budding builder.
> 2- What size air compressor is needed?
I have two--a belt-driven Coleman that puts out 7.5 cfm, if I remember correctly,
and a small dental compressor that I had lying around. I've used the little
dental
compressor for everything so far, and it's been great for all the riveting. It's
small and quiet, but its little tank doesn't allow for much use of the air
drill or
die grinder.
So, if you plan to use an air drill rather than electric, get a compressor that
has a larger tank--I suppose 10-20 gallon--and put up with the noise. You don't
need
one of those free-standing monsters with the 50,000 gallon tank!
> 3-What size/manufacturer rivet gun is best. Any other tool vendors recomended?
I'm sure nearly every builder will agree with this advice: BUY GOOD TOOLS!
Good tools can be found lots of places, but two that are big in the RV community
are
Avery (http://www.averytools.com) and Cleaveland (http://www.cleavelandtool.com). They're RV people, and great to work with. Plus, they have pretty much whatever
you might need to build your RV, and then some.
> 4-Some have suggested glueing parts as well as riveting. Any thoughts?
No opinion here. Unfortunately, I didn't hear about epoxying parts until I had
already riveted them. There are some places where I probably would've done it,
especially with the bulkheads in the fuse. I'm sure that building by riveting
alone is plenty strong.
I hope that helps you and anyone else with similar questions.
--Don McNamara
N8RV (fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Subject: | Re: New Builder question |
At 10/4/00 10:03 AM, you wrote:
>1-I have seen some very fancy building jigs advertised. However, it seems
>that the simple ones made of wood as in the plans are adequate. Any
>opinions out there?
The simple ones in the plans are more than adequate!
>2- What size air compressor is needed?
>I have 60 gal / 5 HP Oil less that is great but makes a lot of noise when
>it fires up. General list concensus is I believe to use a belt driven
>one. Check the archives for endless discussion on this
>3-What size/manufacturer rivet gun is best. Any other tool vendors
>recomended?
Check the archives for an email submitted by Scott McDaniels (who works for
Vans). I use a 3X but I have it throttled down to almost off. If I had to
do it over again, I would buy the 2X. Of course you by them both and not
worry about it...tool companies like that idea!
>4-Some have suggested glueing parts as well as riveting. Any thoughts
I am starting the fuselage and have not yet done any glueing of parts that
I can remember. You will do fiberglass stuff but that is a different story.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: New Builder question |
Vern,
The only comment I can make is about the gluing of parts or better
yet, the "bonding" of parts. You won't believe it until you try it! I suggested
this
on this list awhile ago and know of one other RV-8 builder who is using it and
he likes it also. Give it a try on some scrap aluminum if you are totally not
sure.
BTW, I can not take credit for this idea. I got it from some RV ers in California.
Joe
(ready to trailer to the airport!!!)
"Vern Darley, 11" wrote:
>
> I am taking the how to build an RV course in Griffin, GA this weekend. In anticipation
of beginning an RV-8 soon, I have a few questions.
>
> 1-I have seen some very fancy building jigs advertised. However, it seems that
the simple ones made of wood as in the plans are adequate. Any opinions out
there?
>
> 2- What size air compressor is needed?
>
> 3-What size/manufacturer rivet gun is best. Any other tool vendors recomended?
>
> 4-Some have suggested glueing parts as well as riveting. Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks! Vern
> Peachtree City, Georgia
>
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | prime or powder coat RV-8 LG parts? |
Hi folks,
I drilled the holes for the landing gear legs on my RV-8 this
weekend. I notice that there the outboard U bracket is a very tight
fit where it contacts the front and back face of the landing gear
leg. Obviously it is designed to make sure there is no slop in the
fit. I was planning on powder coating all the landing gear parts,
but now I am wondering if the thickness of the coating will cause me
grief. Will I have to polish the powder coating off in this area to
get it to fit? Would I be better off with epoxy primer?
I bet whatever coating I use gets worn off pretty quickly in this
area. Any comments from those with flying RV-8s? What kind of
lubricant should I use in this area to reduce wear and provide
corrosion protection?
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | changed WWW site address |
I've been having a lot of problems with XOOM, and I finally found
what looks like a better place to host my web site. My RV-8 page can
now be found at:
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
My RV Links page is at:
http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html
Please let me know if there are any performance glitches, outages, or
broken links.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)aviart.net> |
Subject: | Re: prime or powder coat RV-8 LG parts? |
When I did my RV-4 a few years ago I had to sand off the Veriprime primer I
used on my gear legs where they fit into the engine mount sockets in order
to get them to fit - they were that tight. I just coated the joint with a
thin layer of grease and installed them that way. I am rebuilding it now
and plan on powder coating the parts - but I will mask this area first.
Richard
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Date: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:32 PM
Subject: RV8-List: prime or powder coat RV-8 LG parts?
>
>Hi folks,
>
>I drilled the holes for the landing gear legs on my RV-8 this
>weekend. I notice that there the outboard U bracket is a very tight
>fit where it contacts the front and back face of the landing gear
>leg. Obviously it is designed to make sure there is no slop in the
>fit. I was planning on powder coating all the landing gear parts,
>but now I am wondering if the thickness of the coating will cause me
>grief. Will I have to polish the powder coating off in this area to
>get it to fit? Would I be better off with epoxy primer?
>
>I bet whatever coating I use gets worn off pretty quickly in this
>area. Any comments from those with flying RV-8s? What kind of
>lubricant should I use in this area to reduce wear and provide
>corrosion protection?
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
Subject: | RV8 N89GM Certified |
RV8'ers
Yesterday RV-8 N89GM passed the certification checkoffs and is legal to fly.
I can pass on to you all through email or post some highlights of my
build/certification adventures, or answer any questions you might have.
So there is an end after all...now if the 700 foot ceiling would just lift a
bit.
-- Greg Miller
Idaho Falls, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8 N89GM Certified |
Congratulations Greg. My pardoner and I just received our finish kit last
week so we have a while before we will be where you are. Sure am getting
excited about that first ride, however.
Howard Cochran
Mooresville, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 N89GM Certified |
Congrats Greg!
I hope to get my inspection this week.
Joe
Greg Miller wrote:
>
> RV8'ers
>
> Yesterday RV-8 N89GM passed the certification checkoffs and is legal to fly.
>
> I can pass on to you all through email or post some highlights of my
> build/certification adventures, or answer any questions you might have.
>
> So there is an end after all...now if the 700 foot ceiling would just lift a
> bit.
>
> -- Greg Miller
> Idaho Falls, ID
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Wanted: RV-8 wing video (Orndorf) |
Does anyone have this video available? If you are in Canada, it would be a
bonus :)
Are
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TonyKoenig(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: RV-8 wing video (Orndorf) |
Sorry I only have the Empennage video. If you get a copy of the wing and all
other video's, I would be willing to buy a copy from you.
Thanks Tony Koenig
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TonyKoenig(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: RV-8 wing video (Orndorf) |
Sorry I only have the Empennage video. If you get a copy of the wing and all
other video's, I would be willing to buy a copy from you.
Thanks Tony Koenig
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wanted: RV-8 wing video (Orndorf) |
Are,
We have the RV-8 wing video available. All our videos are listed on our
website- www.fly-gbi.com
Please let us know if we can help you. Thanks for your interest in our
products.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Blake" <danblake(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Completed RV-8 Tail for sale |
I'm loosing my workshop for a few years, and have decided to sell my
completed RV-8 empennage. Veriprime interior and electric trim installed.
Located in the Atlanta area. Workmanship is near flawless. Built with the
help of experienced builder and EAA tech advisor. Spare uncut instrument
panel.
Preview plans, serial number.
Asking $2200.
Details:
dan(at)thrutech.com
or
(770) 451-8976
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
yak-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: | List REPLY-TO Fuction Restored... |
Hi Listers,
I noticed a bit of discussion on the List regarding how the Reply-To
field was working and there appeared to be some confusion. A couple of
months ago I got this great idea to change the way the Reply-To email
header was configured so that when a person did a Reply to a message
they received from the List, it would by default go back to 1) The List,
and 2) the Poster. This would mean in most cases the poster would get
two copies of the message. The reason it seemed like a good idea was in
the case where someone posted a message to another list that they
weren't subscribed to, they would still get a reply back. (You only
have to be subscribed to one List to be able to post to any of them.)
Anyway, it seemed like a good idea at the time, but it seems to have
caused a lot more confusion than it was worth. So, I've returned the
configuration back to the way it used to be where a reply will just go
back to the List.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu> |
Guys,
One word.........AWESOME! N811JC took the skies today on a
crisp, clear, beautiful, cool morning. Flight lasted about 20 minutes
. Airspeed indicator was a little off and will be addressed before the
next flight. Words can hardly express my feelings about this plane
right now. The messy pro-seal, the tight fitting gear boxes, the hard
to fit canopy skirt and the smelly paint all became worth it after the
first flight! Don't give up hope. Those stumbling blocks along the way
just make that first flight more enjoyable. This plane truly is
awesome. More flying reports to follow in the future.
Joe
#80125
(Now I know what an "RV Grin" is!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-avionics ,
list-ez , list-glasair ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket , list-rv8
Subject: | Heated pitot tube good price |
Hello listers,
I sent out a post not long ago saying I will continue to sell the AN5814
heated pitot tube at the old price of $199 until all of my current stock
is gone, then my price must go up due to increased price from the
manufacture. I still have a few. First come first serve. They will go
fast now.
I also sell the mounting bracket kits for mounting this and the
PH502-12CR heated pitot tube. Of course I sell this pitot also. To see
these products and others I offer look at my website. The address
is: http://www.gretzaero.com
I hope to hear from you soon.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List! |
Dear Listers,
As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in
his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund
Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like
to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services
here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email
Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found
on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a
'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down
a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide
advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the
outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers,
however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the
commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering
the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest
membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the
success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my
commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics
servers free to everyone.
That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from
free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most
reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as
necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite
aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service
like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything
running and time required to produce new and improved software
enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone.
On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription
requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code
base, and developing new utilities for the List community.
The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across
the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers
have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up
time for the connection has approached the 99% mark.
If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you
make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your
Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation
and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your
Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an
investment in the future of these Lists.
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end
of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has
generously made a Contribution this year!
Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported
me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement
means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from
all around the world!
Sincerely,
Matt Dralle
Your Email List Administrator
dralle(at)matronics.com
============================================================================
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
>
>Well folks,
>
>I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's
>November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is
>the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done
>for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a
>voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution
>hot-line at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy
>feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I
>relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante
>up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can
>learn something from the experts........"It's for the children."
>
>Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high
>moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young
>charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't
>want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and
>become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte
>provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be
>achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite
>exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one
>(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware
>of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach
>to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to
>Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my
>tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment.
>
>Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> c/o Matt Dralle
> Matronics
> P.O. Box 347
> Livermore, CA. 94551
>
>I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative
>advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you
>folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign
>this November and get out the contributions! AL
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | List Fund Raiser Continues... |
Hello Listers!
This is just a reminder that the Annual List Fund Raiser is currently
underway. Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued
operation and upgrade of this valuable resource? Your Contribution can
be made via a Secure SSL Internet Transaction with your Visa or
MasterCard at the URL shown below or you may send it via US Mail to the
address also listed below.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you for your support! Your generosity directly makes this List
possible.
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway... |
Hi Listers,
Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway
and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your
contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The
continued operation and improvement of these services are directly
enabled by the generous contributions of its members.
You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using
the Matronics SSL Secure website at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or with a personal check to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed |
Hi there,
I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward
baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted
until later in the project, to give good access to the forward
fuselage.
The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage
door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would
like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out
OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had
told you before you started?
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | terje.kobro(at)platou.com |
Subject: | RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed |
i had no problem with it- but it took days to get a proper fit , and i had
to sschrink and bend the door several times to get a perfect fit....
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton(at)cyberus.ca]
> Sent: 7. november 2000 23:02
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)egroups.com
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed
>
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward
> baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted
> until later in the project, to give good access to the forward
> fuselage.
>
> The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage
> door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would
> like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out
> OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had
> told you before you started?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed |
Kevin,
Like you said, cleco the heck out of the F-821 skin and do the baggage door
now. By a silly accident I made mine at this point, then, after I did the
final riveting on the 821 I found out that I had used a wrong piece and had
to do it over. That was a pain that I would wish on nobody because of the
twist in the skin that is set in place by the inside skin that needs to be
drilled from the inside. By all means do it now. Although you may want to
hold off on trimming the outer door skin on the leading edge until you fit
the cowling.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809Rs
1.3 hours and awaiting repair part for next flight
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)egroups.com
>Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed
>Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 17:02:24 -0500
>
>
>Hi there,
>
>I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward
>baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted
>until later in the project, to give good access to the forward
>fuselage.
>
>The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage
>door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would
>like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out
>OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had
>told you before you started?
>
>Thanks,
>
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed |
Problem is... ribs to the door don't match the curve of the skin when
installed... I took 7 days and still didn't like the fit...
terje.kobro(at)platou.com wrote:
>
> i had no problem with it- but it took days to get a proper fit , and i had
> to sschrink and bend the door several times to get a perfect fit....
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton(at)cyberus.ca]
> > Sent: 7. november 2000 23:02
> > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)egroups.com
> > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi there,
> >
> > I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward
> > baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted
> > until later in the project, to give good access to the forward
> > fuselage.
> >
> > The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage
> > door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would
> > like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out
> > OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had
> > told you before you started?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed |
> I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward
> baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted
> until later in the project, to give good access to the forward
> fuselage.
>
> The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage
> door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would
> like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out
> OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had
> told you before you started?
Kevin,
In juggling when to paint the interior, getting started on the windscreen,
mounting/aligning the baggage door, hanging the engine, etc., I found it
easier and more accurate to just rivet the F-821 early on. This gave me lots
of options in the construction sequence, not to mention that it is a big of
a bugger to rivet on if you wait until installing some things. More stuff
installed reduces your access. Also, if you paint before riveting you will
scratch your paint big time due to how awkward it is to buck. Perhaps just
as importantly I *knew* that the whole front area was locked in so
everything could be aligned to it. No question, leaving it off for now gives
you more access, but I haven't had any problem yet.
No advice on the door itself, just follow manual. Since Scott McDaniels kind
of designed the door I think he also wrote that section of the manual. With
the usual adjusting and fitting I had no real problem with it. Getting a
good fit is time consuming but you've already been through worse.
Have fun!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, painting
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Homebuilt-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway... |
--> Homebuilt-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi Listers,
Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway
and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your
contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The
continued operation and improvement of these services are directly
enabled by the generous contributions of its members.
You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using
the Matronics SSL Secure website at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or with a personal check to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Zenith-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi Listers,
Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway
and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your
contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The
continued operation and improvement of these services are directly
enabled by the generous contributions of its members.
You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using
the Matronics SSL Secure website at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or with a personal check to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Rocket-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway... |
--> Rocket-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi Listers,
Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway
and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your
contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The
continued operation and improvement of these services are directly
enabled by the generous contributions of its members.
You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using
the Matronics SSL Secure website at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or with a personal check to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | RV6-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway... |
--> RV6-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi Listers,
Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway
and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your
contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The
continued operation and improvement of these services are directly
enabled by the generous contributions of its members.
You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using
the Matronics SSL Secure website at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or with a personal check to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Huge Apology for "List Malfunction"... |
Dear Listers,
I am so embarrassed by the List-gone-crazy tonight! I'm not sure
exactly went wrong. I'm suspecting that someone with an email account
at msm.com may have been reposting my message from this morning over
and over again maliciously spamming the system, but I can't really
prove that.
In any case, I am hugely embarrassed and sorry for the ton of messages
that went out tonight regarding the 2000 Fund Raiser. Something went
wrong on the system or somebody did me wrong; in either case I
apologize for the huge dump of messages.
My sincerest apologies...
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | New List MIME/HTML/Enclosure Filter Implemented... |
Dear Listers,
With the pervasiveness of email applications using HTML (web formatting)
and MIME encoding such as AOL 6.0, Netscape, Eudora and others it was
clear that I needed to come up with an improved method for limiting how
messages posted to the various Lists was handled.
As of today, November 13 2000 you should be able to configure your email
program any way you like - with or without special formatting - and your
message will still be accepted my the Matronics system. Also, if you
include any sort of enclosure data, your message will also still be
accepted instead of bounced back.
But wait, it gets even better! Everything except for the plain text
will be automatically stripped from the incoming post including any
HTML, MIME, and/or enclosure data prior to redistribution. This should
serve to both ease the configuration burden on the many users, and to
increase the readability of both the posted messages and the archives.
I had a few 'bugs' with the filter on Sunday and Monday morning, so if
you received a few messages that seemed "odd", than this was probably
why.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Ivey <jim(at)jimivey.com> |
Subject: | Re: Yak-List: New List MIME/HTML/Enclosure Filter Implemented... |
Everything you need to know can be found at the following url:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/
I just used the secure credit-card option. There is also a snail-mail
address for you old-fashioned types (i.e. back in the good old days when
folks wouldn't abscond with your credit card info) ;)
Jim Ivey
N46YK
Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> With the pervasiveness of email applications using HTML (web formatting)
> and MIME encoding such as AOL 6.0, Netscape, Eudora and others it was
> clear that I needed to come up with an improved method for limiting how
> messages posted to the various Lists was handled.
>
> As of today, November 13 2000 you should be able to configure your email
> program any way you like - with or without special formatting - and your
> message will still be accepted my the Matronics system. Also, if you
> include any sort of enclosure data, your message will also still be
> accepted instead of bounced back.
>
> But wait, it gets even better! Everything except for the plain text
> will be automatically stripped from the incoming post including any
> HTML, MIME, and/or enclosure data prior to redistribution. This should
> serve to both ease the configuration burden on the many users, and to
> increase the readability of both the posted messages and the archives.
>
> I had a few 'bugs' with the filter on Sunday and Monday morning, so if
> you received a few messages that seemed "odd", than this was probably
> why.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Admin.
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
> Great minds discuss ideas,
> Average minds discuss events,
> Small minds discuss people...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
Subject: | Wanted RV8 wing kit |
Just finishing up the tail and it is time to start thinking about a RV8 wing
kit or my kids college. Oh let's go with the wing! Would prefer one that
has not been started. Please respond off-line to pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com or
call. Thanks!
Jack Textor
RV8 tail
Des Moines, IA
515-243-7687 wk
515-277-4173 hm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | NEW CARB AND FUEL PUMP FOR SALE |
LW-15472 FUEL PUMP = $185.00
MA 4-5 CARB .. NO CORE4 EXCHANGE = $650.00
RESPOND OFF LIST TO...... SALNED71(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gosh2Fly(at)aol.com |
Rv-8QB FOR SALE , 23K LOCATED IN CENTRAL FLA.
RESPOND TO GOSH2FLY(at)AOL.COM.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List: What Listers Are Saying... |
Matt,
I think what you're doing is great for those of us flying and building Kolb
aircraft. You're probably saving Kolb a full time employee in tech support
just by providing the communication between builders. I know I have had a
half dozen questions answered here on the list and saved Kolb support a few
phone calls. You should forward this letter to Kolb, maybe they'd ante up,
too. It would be great PR for the TN Kolb a/c. Thanks a bunch, Matt!
Ken Broste
Building a Firestar
Tucson, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: What Listers Are Saying...
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> During this year's List Fund Raiser I have been receiving a number of
> very nice comments from members regarding what the Lists mean to them.
> I'm sure most everyone can echo one or more of the thoughts expressed
> below. Won't you take a moment to make a Contribution to support the
> continued operation and improvment of your Lists?
>
> A special 'thank you' to everyone that has made a contribution so far
> and for all of the wonderful and supportive comments I've received!
>
>
> To make a contribution with a credit card over an SSL Secure Web Site,
> please go to the following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> or, to make a contribution with a person check, please mail it to:
>
> Matronics
> c/o Matt Dralle
> PO Box 347
> Livermore, CA 94551
>
>
> Thank you!!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Admin.
>
>
> ===================== Comments From List Members
========================
>
>
> * You helped make this dream a reality... -Terry C.
>
> * Thanks for a wonderful resource! -Rick J.
>
> * Thanks for providing a quality product. -Bill C.
>
> * Have found [the List] invaluable for education while building... -Rick
H.
>
>
> * I learn so much from the List! -Robert R.
>
> * [The List] is better than any aviation magazines I subscribe
o. -Roger H.
>
> * I enjoy the pages and find them very helpful. -Noel G.
>
> * The "List" is a great place to both receive and exten help and ideas
for
> building and making flying safer. -Jack B.
>
>
> * The discussions are very helpful. -James B.
>
> * ...I believe this List will be a better value than the
ewsletter. -Roger T.
>
> * [The List] has helped me with the construction of my RV-9. -Marty S.
>
> * VERY good reading. Excellent entertainment value. -Jerry I.
>
>
> * [The List] has saved me many hour on wild goose chases. -Billy W.
>
> * Thanks for keeping my passion for flying as piqued as ever. -Terry W.
>
> * Keep up the nice work. -Daniel H.
>
> * Thanks for all the effort on behalf of Sport Aviation! -Elbie M.
>
>
> * ...Great information source! -Richard W.
>
> * ...Thanks for your help and patience with a very difficult
ask. -Louis W.
>
> * [The List] has been a great asset. -Edward C.
>
> * Just started and already received some valuable tips. -Scott S.
>
>
> * Thanks for the List to let up share our passion. -Brian A.
>
> * ...This List is good stuff. -Russ D.
>
> * ...The single most helpful resource I've come across in
uilding. -Craig P.
>
> * ...Enjoy [the List] a lot. -John H.
>
>
> * The List is a most important tool to help building. -Brad R.
>
> * ...Really found the List to be great! -Geoff T.
>
> * Excellent contribution to the aviation community. -Larry B.
>
> * Great source of information... -William G.
>
>
> * The Lists ... make building a real hoot! -Jeff O.
>
> * The List has been invaluable. -Matt P.
>
> * Thanks for letting me use the site. It's great! -Larry M.
>
> * ...This List has been very helpful. -Larry H.
>
>
> * Greatest support ever for the builders and I have met many
riends. -Fred H.
>
> * ...I love this List and have met many new friends... -Tom E.
>
> * Love both the List and the Search Engine. -Roy G.
>
>
> ===================== Comments From List Members
========================
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
> Great minds discuss ideas,
> Average minds discuss events,
> Small minds discuss people...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com> |
Hi Matt,
"The check's in the mail!" Well, not quite, but it goes out tomorrow.
I have unsubscribed from the RV-List because I have put my RV plans on
hold, and because of the sheer volume of posts. However, I still am on the
RV-8 List. Also, though I am staying in the certificated aircraft world
for the time being, I still search the archives periodically for input on
various components and accessories, operational techniques, etc. Like any
public forum, you can't accept it all as gospel, but there is certainly a
wealth of valuable information available from the list.
I am currently shopping for an engine monitor. Did JPI ever get their act
together, or are they still hassling you? If they have not backed off I
will not consider any of their products.
Thanks you for providing a valuable service to experimental AND general
aviation.
Sincerely,
Tim Bronson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Good Shipping Company?? |
Check with some local independent truckers. You will likely find one who
will have room on a back haul. The cost should be considerably less than
the quotes you have. Just this week I had a quote to move 9,000 lbs. 700
miles for $680.00.
Gaylen
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Textor <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 12:29 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Good Shipping Company??
>
> Hi Friends,
> I need to ship an rv8 wing kit from the Dayton, Ohio area to Des Moines,
IA.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Shipping Costs $600 vs. $167 |
Thanks to Terry Watson and others who helped with my question regarding
shipping costs. When I specified my contents as "aluminum sheet, aluminum
bar and angle" (shippers code 13560) instead of an RV8 wing kit, the same
shipper reduced the cost from $600 to $167. To pick up or deliver to a home
instead of business they ad $28 on each end.
Thanks,
RV8
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | For Sale: O-360 Carb and Fuel Pump |
From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
New MA-4-5 carb (shipping box unopenned) and LW15472 mechanical fuel pump
for sale. Both off of new Van's O-360 A1A engine.
MA-4-5 carb (Lycoming part #71710) - $700
LW15472 fuel pump - $100
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (engine baffles)
Vienna, VA
(703) 319-3794
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Rib to Spar - Design flaw? |
Am I missing something? It seems to weird that only I have this problem.
I have made the following web page to prove to Van's that all these ribs
must be repaired in order to pass inspection (at least here in Canada).
Here's a link that I will send Van's that should illustrate the problem very
well: Please have a look if you're building an RV-8.
http://www.bconnex.net/~abarstad/RibToSpar.html
Are
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Electric Bobs new email? |
Hi from cold Des Moines,
Anybody know Electric Bob's new email and phone?
Thanks,
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric Bobs new email? |
> Anybody know Electric Bob's new email and phone?
> Thanks,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net> |
Subject: | Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron
and the flap.
The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets.
The brackets are predrilled.
The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to
the wing in the case of the QB kit
is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on
the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then you fit the
flap to the aileron. Is this correct?
If so, what is the best way to hold the bellcrank in the neutral position?
The plans call a 2 1/2 in.
dimension from the spar web to the center of the rod end bearing bolt hole.
I've got my wing upside down in a holder like you use for the fuel tanks.
As an alternate to the airfoil template, wouldn't tapeing some 1 by 2's to
the wing that extends over the trailing edge so as to conform to the shape
of the wing, work as well or better for fairing the aileron as the airfoil
template?
The AN3 bolts that fit the various powder coated brackets is a very tight
fit, if they fit at all. Can I ream the brackets with a 3/16 reamer?
The brass bushing for the aileron bellcrank is to small for the AN4 bolt,
is reaming with a 1/4 in. reamer using a drill press the best option?
Thanks
Dean
RV-8A QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Aileron fitting RV8 QB |
I have a slow build, but ...
I used some side-grip clecos and a couple pieces of angle going to a near-by
rib to hold the bellcrank in the recommended spot.
I used strips of wood that were about 1.5" x 3/8" x 8' for alignment. Pix
are on the web site under "more wings".
I successfully used a drill bit where needed on the bellcrank and bushing.
A reamer would be even better.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 gearboxes
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
> Sent: Monday, December 25, 2000 2:46 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Aileron fitting RV8 QB
>
>
> I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron
> and the flap.
> The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets.
> The brackets are predrilled.
> The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to
> the wing in the case of the QB kit
> is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on
> the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then
> you fit the
> flap to the aileron. Is this correct?
September 11, 1999 - December 25, 2000
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-aa