RV8-Archive.digest.vol-aa

September 11, 1999 - December 25, 2000



      
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From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Sep 11, 1999
Subject: Welcome to the new RV8-List Email List at Matronics!
Welcome to the new RV8-List Email List at Matronics! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Sep 11, 1999
Subject: New, RV Model-Specific Email Lists At Matronics!
rv8-list(at)matronics.com Dear RV Listers, A couple of weeks ago I received a request from a fellow (I accidently deleted his email message - please write me again) who had been running an RV-3 email list and was wondering if I would be interested in taking it over for him. It seemed like a good idea and I thought that I would go ahead and create not only the RV3-specific list, but also one for the RV4, RV6, and RV8 models as well. Well, you can imagine my surprise when Joe Colontonio announced his new RV-8 email list this week! Anyway, I'm definitely not trying to 'one-up' Joe, but I wanted to added the model-specific lists to the current RV-List here at Matronics. The new Lists (RV3-List, RV4-List, RV6-List, and RV8-List) each have their own digest mode, as well as the traditional Archive Search Engine access and Archive Browsing capability via the web interface. Please note that the current RV-List general List still exists and will continue to co-exist with these new model-specific Lists. I would encourage everyone to only use the specific Lists for discussions that severely only relate to the model in question. You may subscribe to any of the new model-specific Lists at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 1999
From: "The Matronics Email Weasel" <testmail(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Test from Matronics - Please Ignore - Weasel #WSN01944
Weasel-Number: WSN01944 User Serial Number: WSN01944 User Email Address: rv8 127edk(at)cs.com This is a test message to determine the source of bogus email addresses. Please do *not* respond to this message as the test relies upon which email addresses bounce this message. Your email address could be inadvertently deleted from the List if you respond directly to this message. This test is being done to locate bad email addresses currently on one of the following email Lists sponsored by Matronics: Aerobatic-List, Aviation-List, Beech-List, Cessna-List, EZ-List, Glasair-List, Homebuilt-List, Kolb-List, Lancair-List, Piper-List, Rocket-List, RV-List, RV3-List, RV4-List, RV6-List, RV8-List, Sailplane-List, Seaplane-List, Ultralight-List, Warbird-List, Yak-List, Zenith-List The results of this test aid in purging bad email addresses from the Lists and can increase the performance of the email list server substantially. Thank you for your patience and understanding. Matt Dralle Matronics dralle(at)matronics.com Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Sep 12, 1999
Subject: Two MORE Email Lists at Matronics...
Dear Listers, At the request of a couple of members, I have added two more Email Lists to the Servers here at Matronics. These include: avionics-list(at)matronics.com Aircraft Avionics related topics such as Radios, GPSs, VSIs, DMEs, etc. engines-list(at)matronics.com Aircraft Engine related topics such as Lycomings, Auto conversions, etc. As usual, the new lists have full archive searching and browsing capabilities. You may subscribe to the new lists by using the Web-Based subscription form at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Sep 13, 1999
rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: New Specific RV Lists Auto Forwarded to RV-List...
Hi RV Listers, I've received quite a few comments about the diluting affect having specific lists will have on the main RV-List. Also, that archive searching would be somewhat more difficult. I've tried something this morning that might solve the problem. What I've done is automatically forward any messages sent to the RV3-List, RV4-List, RV6-List, and RV8-List to the main RV-List. This will assure that all messages will be appended to the RV-List archive, easing the searching task as well. What do people think of this solution? Matt Dralle Email List Admin. PS - I think that I've set it up so that, when a message is cross-posted to more than one RV-Specific List as I did with this message, only one copy will be forwarded to the RV-List for general viewing. Hopefully! -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Subject: Sound Damping Tape for Aircraft
This is from AAMR/AirCore. There is a new page up on our site. It's can be found on our home page http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html Click Sound Damping Tape. This the same stuff Boeing uses in it's fuselages to reduce unwanted noise and vibration. We've got a really great price on it. Regards, John @AAMR/AirCore ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: canopy release- another option
Date: Sep 15, 1999
Hi all, There was some talk before about having a method of releasing the canopy on an RV-8, and the only option I heard of was to install pins (rather than bolts) where the roller assemblies attach to the canopy frame. The idea was that you could pull two pins, then unlatch the canopy and push it up into the airstream. The only problem I see with this plan is that it requires a number of operations to be performed in what could be a violently out of control aircraft. In trying to simplify the procedure, I thought about cutting a notch out of the top of the canopy rails that would allow the rollers to lift up and out. I'm guessing that you'd want to position these notches about 6 inches back from the closed position of the rollers. It would look something like this: http://www.mindspring.com/~rv8/eject.jpg Using this method, you would only have to unlatch the canopy, and push up as you opened it. What do you think? Will it work? Would it be an improvement over the other method of pulling the pins? Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (cutting canopy next) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: canopy release- another option
Date: Sep 18, 1999
Sorry to be so absent from my own question, but it wasn't my idea (work sucks). > It looks like it should work nicely. The only concern I've got is > whether you could have the canopy come off when opening or closing it > on the ground in some bad combination of prop blast and wind gust. > > Take care, > Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 85% done) I thought about this, but figured I could make sure the canopy was sitting behind the spot where the notch was. For an -8, gravity will keep the canopy from ever sliding forward accidentally. but I don't know about an -8A. While opening or closing the canopy, you would just have to make sure to keep some downward pressure on the canopy while sliding it past the notch. >I like your idea. But I have a serious concern. If you accidentally forget >to latch the canopy, it will likely open up on takeoff to just about that >point, and.... WHOOSH! I don't know how the -8 canopy behaves but on the -6 >slider it will slide open just so far, and stay there. If that slot is in >the spot it wants to open up to on takeoff, well.... :-{ > >I would like to have an alternative to the pins, because I found late in the >game (after I bought some quick release pins), that my key lock is too close >to the fwd frame to allow their use on that side. But aside from that I >don't think pulling the pins is a bad option. > >Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (flying) Now this is something I hadn't thought of, and boy would it ruin your day. I'd like to say I'd never forget to latch the canopy, but... I suppose the notches could be located far enough back that the canopy likely (?) wouldn't reach them if it popped open, but that also makes it harder to reach yourself if needed. I've even thought of drilling vertical holes in one of the rails to allow a pin to be dropped in as a stop. This could be located various places for various reasons, but I can't say that it would be a perfect solution. Now that you mention it, I also need to take a closer look at how the handle might interfere with the pins. >How about building a cover plate for each of the notches you have cut >out? Place the cover over the top of the cutout, making it slightly > > >By removing one bolt/fastener on each side, you will be able to pivot >the retaining plate out of the way when you want to jettison the canopy. >Charlie Kuss I thought about some sort of removable top cover for the notches, but it wouldn't require any fewer steps than just pulling the pins. If you could make a real nice cover though, it might be easier to actuate than the pins. As I think about it, this might actually be the best compromise. Make a cover for the top of the notches that is easily removable in flight. The only time you would likely need to get rid of the canopy in a big hurry, and with the least effort, is due to a loss of control when you're wearing a chute. I see this as a planned aerobatic session for most people. There are times when you need to get rid of the canopy for other reasons, such as an off field landing where the plane might flip over. In those cases, you will probably have enough time to release the covers prior to opening the canopy. As I imagine it, the procedure would be to have the covers in place until you plan to start your aerobatics, then they would be release along with other items like making sure you're on the inverted tank, and triple checking your seat belts. I'll have to think about this some more, especially a method to fashion the cover, but I already have a couple ideas. I think I like it :-) Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (canopy next) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Vertical location of VS on RV-8?
Date: Sep 26, 1999
How do you know precisely where to locate the VS when mounting? There is nothing specified in the manual, and no real vertical dimensions I can see on dwg 27. What am I missing? Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, mounting emp, starting to look like a plane, too bad I have to take it back off! www.pacifier.com/~randyl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED2131(at)cs.com
Date: Oct 04, 1999
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/03/99
JUST A HINT BEFORE CLOSING YOUR LANDING GEAR BOXES INSTALL THE FUEL VENT LINES. I DIDN'T AND AM FIGHTING THEM NOW. GOOD LUCK..............ED 80127 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 05, 1999
Subject: Re: rv8list-fitting fuel tanks built by Aviacomp
Fellow 8ers: I had my fuel tanks built by Aviacomp. I am having some difficulty getting them to fit properly in relation to the leading edge skins on top and the pre-drilled holes on the main spar. There is about an 1/8" gap on the top and yet the bottom skins butt right up?? I also can't seem to pull the tanks down far enough on the spar to reach the pre-drilled holes. I have used the cargo straps and all the muscle I have Help!! Len in NC 8A, ready to skin wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED2131(at)cs.com
Date: Oct 09, 1999
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/08/99
I'M LOOKING FOR IDEAS FOR MOUNTING THE ELT ANTENNA IN MY 8. ANY SUGGETIONS WOUL BE APPRECIATED. THANKS, ED 80127 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED2131(at)cs.com
Date: Oct 14, 1999
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/13/99
i'm just starting to think and plan my elec. sys. for the rv-8. right now it seems to be overwhelming. is there a step by step process of where to put this or that and whatever. i want to start with the battery and the ground bloc, but are they going to be in the way of something else later on? is there a simple plan? i've always believed in the kiss plan and i just don't see it yet. thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.............ed 80127 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 1999
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 10/13/99
Ed, I felt the same way when I was at that point. I first concentrated on my instrument panel. If you have vacuum instruments, this will take up alot of room with hoses and regulators and such. Wiring can be planned around these items. I have the battery in the forward location as per Van's plans. Van's has a wiring schematic for the RV-8 but they don't advertise it. It comes with the wiring kit they sell. The wiring schematic shows many wire runs and answers questions like where to cut a hole in the F-806 web. It helped me. Joe Czachorowski #80125 SALNED2131(at)cs.com wrote: > > i'm just starting to think and plan my elec. sys. for the rv-8. right now it > seems to be overwhelming. is there a step by step process of where to put > this or that and whatever. i want to start with the battery and the ground > bloc, but are they going to be in the way of something else later on? is > there a simple plan? i've always believed in the kiss plan and i just don't > see it yet. > > thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.............ed 80127 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 1999
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: List of RV-8/8A plans/instructions/parts problems
RV-8/8A builders, I just moved my web page to a new server, and supposedly have no limit on how much space I use, unlike the old one where I had to remove old material to make room for new stuff. So, now that I have all this space to play with, I am considering putting together a list of known issues with the plans, instructions or parts for the RV-8 or 8A. If everyone sends me info on the problems they are aware of, this could become a useful resource. If no one contributes, it will go nowhere. Please send me info on know problems. I'll post a message once I get the page up and running. If it is a problem with the plans, please specify what drawing number and revision level. Please clearly explain the problem, any info you got from Vans', and what you did to fix the problem. If it is a problem with the instructions, please indicate what section and page, and the date on your version of the plans. If you've already put something on the web explaining a problem, just send me the location, and I'll just add a link to your info. Happy building, Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/nojpi.html - No JPI stuff in my aircraft! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 12, 1999
Subject: JPI vs. Matronics Settlement Reached...
Dear Listers, After seven months of negotiations, JP Instruments, Inc. and Matronics have reached a mutually agreeable settlement. As most of you are aware, in February of this year, JP Instruments, Inc. alleged that Matronics' use of the trademark "FuelScan" with its aircraft fuel management system infringed upon JP Instruments, Inc's trademark "Scanner" for engine temperature indicators. JP Instruments, Inc. requested that Matronics discontinue the use of the "FuelScan" mark. After considerable negotiations, we have come to an agreement whereby JP Instruments, Inc. will purchase the FuelScan trademark and, if necessary, assist in paying the cost of Matronics' adoption of a new trademark. Matronics will continue to sell and market its aircraft fuel management system under the FuelScan trademark until a phase-out period of up to one year is completed. This will allow Matronics time to sell out its current stock of units marked with the FuelScan trademark and to develop a new trademark. While negotiations have been a bit trying at times, I would like to say that I am satisfied with the outcome, and feel that JP Instruments, Inc. has treated Matronics and me fairly in this matter. Furthermore, I would encourage you to consider JP Instruments for your aircraft avionics in the future as they manufacture an excellent product line. Finally, I would like to thank everyone from around the world for their support and consideration in this matter. I was quite moved by the support - both financial and in the form of letters and comments - that builders and pilots provided me and my company during this time. I never felt alone during this period, and so very much appreciated the encouragement from thousands of my friends! Thank you so very much! Best regards, Matt Dralle President, Matronics -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1999
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Oil Breather
Hey Guys, What are your thoughts on where to run the oil breather line. "Air -Oil Separator" or drip on the pipes or something else? Joe Czachorowski RV-8 #80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lousmith(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Oil Breather
In a message dated 11/13/99 6:50:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, midnight(at)udel.edu writes: << Hey Guys, What are your thoughts on where to run the oil breather line. "Air -Oil Separator" or drip on the pipes or something else? Joe Czachorowski RV-8 #80125 >> Joe, Mine is set up to drip on the exhaust pipe. I still seem to get some oil on the belly of the plane. Funny thing, I had my RV-4 set up the same way and the bottom always stayed clean. Regards, Louis Smith RV-8 #80126 N801RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Electrical Noise
Guys, I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas out there? Joe RV-8 # 80125 (wiring finally done except for that stupid annoying noise!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lousmith(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 1999
Subject: Re: Electrical Noise
In a message dated 11/17/99 10:49:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, midnight(at)udel.edu writes: << Guys, I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas out there? Joe RV-8 # 80125 (wiring finally done except for that stupid annoying noise!) >> Joe, You might do an archive search or ask Electric Bob. Seems I remember someone else having that same problem a few years back. I think they added some sort of filter to the back of the turn coordinator. Louis Smith RV-8 #80126 N801RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 23, 1999
Subject: [Please Read] List Fund Raiser Continues; LOC #1 December 1st!
Greetings Listers! Don't forget the 1999 List Fund Raiser is still in progress and there is still plenty of time to make a Contribution and assure yourself a place on on the first List Of Contributors (LOC)! I will post the first LOC on December 1st and it will detail everyone that has generously made a Contribution so far this year!! It costs a great deal to maintain the Email and Web server systems and high-speed Internet connection that provide the Email List services found here. I won't even mention the many, many hours I spend each week running the Lists, doing backups, handling subscription requests, and creating new email and web features and services such as the Archive Search Engine, and Archive Browser... Whoops; I think I just did! :-) This year's Fund Raiser started out pretty slow and I was starting to think that no one appreciated me anymore... ;-) But, in the last week or so things have really started to pick up! So if you haven't made a Contribution yet this year, why not join your email List friends and make a contribution today to support the continued operation of these Lists! There are two easy methods for making your Contribution: * Make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, surf over to: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html * Make a Contribution by check, send US Mail to: Matronics c/o Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 I would like to sincerely thank everyone who has already made a Contribution so far this year! I greatly appreciate your generosity and support and want you to know that these Lists have been made possible directly by *YOU*! Thank you! Matt Dralle Your Email List Administrator -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Clicking Noise
Joe, Yes and yes Mike Robertson RV-8A QB "Das Fed" In a message dated Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:46:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, Joe Czachorowski writes: > > Guys, > I have a 0-360 A1D Lycoming Overhauled engine that was > converted to a 0-360 A1A with the removal of the Bendix Mags and the > installation of new Slicks. The dealer that I bought the engine from > changed the mags over. Question.... When I pull the prop through with > the spark plugs out, I can here a loud clicking noise coming from the > left mag. Is this from the impulse coupler? Is this noise normal? > > Joe > RV-8 # 80125 > (installing spaghetti to the engine) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com>
Subject: Re: Clicking Noise & other stuff
Date: Dec 01, 1999
> Is this from the impulse coupler? Is this noise normal? Yes, Joe, no problem. Impulse "clack" and perfectly normal. Nice to see some traffic on this list finally. I subscribed to it a few weeks ago, and hadn't seen anything until this message. By way of introduction, I'm Joe Norris from Wisconsin Rapids, WI. I'm a long-time EAA member, and have previously built a Sonerai and converted a Tri-Pacer to Pacer configuration. I am a CFI, A&P, and IA. As for RV-8 activity, I have an engine and will soon be ordering an RV-8 quickbuild kit. Gotta finish up a couple other small non-aviation projects in the shop first in order to make room! Looking forward to chatting with other RV-8 builders as time goes on! Joe Norris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Dec 02, 1999
Subject: 1999 List of Contributors #1 and a Special Thank You Message!!
Dear Listers, I would like to personally thank each and everyone that has contributed this year to 1999 List Fund Raiser! As you can see from the list of names below, there were many, many generous people from the Lists this time around and I want everyone to know just how much your support has meant to me. The list of members below includes those that have contributed during this year's List Fund Raiser as well as those that have contributed throughout the year and also those that made a donation to my Legal Defense Fund earlier in the year that was sponsored my our own Bob Nuckolls of Aero Electric. I want everyone to know just how much it means to me to receive the type of financial support for these Lists that I have this year. As the Lists have grown so much over the last few years, so have the equipment costs as well as the monthly costs such as the Internet connectivity. Your generosity during the Fund Raiser and throughout the year, truly makes the continued operation, and more importantly, the continued upgrade and improvement of these aviation-related services directly possible. That is the bottom line. Please accept my most sincere appreciation of the amazing and, at times, overwhelming generosity of so many of you wonderful people! Thank you!! For those of you that didn't quite get your contribution in on time for this first List of Contributors - be it by check or by credit card - I will be posting a followup List of Contributors #2 for 1999 in a few weeks to make sure that I properly acknowledge each and everyone of the generous List members. One last time, the addresses to make a contribution are: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or Matt Dralle c/o Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Finally, thank you all so much for your support this year both in terms of the financial contribution but also in the form of the letters and moral support during what can only be categorized as a very stressful and unsettling time. And I think you know what I'm referring to... Your support and encouragement meant more to me than you'll ever know. I felt as if I had 2500 friends all behind me, and that's a *powerful* force! Well done one and all! Thank you! Best regards for the upcoming year. Your Email List Administrator, Matt Dralle RV-4 Builder #1763 =================== 1999 List of Contributors #1 ==================== Abell, John Acker, Rob Adams, Bob Adamson, Larry Ahamer, Karl Albachten, Rudy III Alcazar, Jesus Allen, Brent Allison, Steven Ammeter, John Amundsen, Blair Anderson, Edward Armstrong, Robert Arnold, James Aronson, David Ashford, James Ashton, Kent Atkinson, Harold Baggett, Robert Baker, Gary Baker, Ray Baldwin, James Barlow, Melvin Barnes, Thomas Barnes, Tom Barnhart, Dave Barrenechea, Godo Battles, Brenton BB Diversified Services, LTD Bechtel, Amos Bell, Bruce Belted Air Power LTD. Benhan, Dallas Bennett, Peter Besing, Paul Bieber, Mike Bilodeau, Paul Bird, Carroll Blanton, Stan Bleier, Roger Blomgren, Jack Blum, Ronald Boadright, Kyle Boardman, Don III Boatright, Kyle Boatright, Robert Bodie, Pete Bonesteel, Wayne Booze, Gregory Borne, Charles Bourgeois, Rion Bourne, Larry Bovan Pe, Vaso Bowen, Larry Bowen, Miles Bower, Bob Bowhay, Eustace Bowman, Brian R Boyd, Rodney Branscomb, Warren Bray, Garrett Brian Lloyd Brick, John Bridgham, David Brogley, Mike Brooks, Chris Brooks, John Brott, Marvin Brown, Kent Brown, Scott Buckwalter, David - Avionics Systems Burlingame, Ralph Burnham, Dave Calhoun, Ronald Calvert, Jerry Cantrell, Ken Capen, Ralph Cardinal, Gregory Carey, Christopher Carr, David Carter, Jerry Carter, Ron Casey, Jeremy Chapple, Glen Chesnut, Bruce Chesnut, William Christensen, Peter Christie, William Churchill, Frank Ciolino, John Clabots, Gerald Clark, Howard Clark, James Clary, Buck Clay, Dennis Cloughley, Bill Cole, Ed Colontonio, Moe Colucci, Anthoney Conaway, James Cook, David Sr. Cooley, John Copeland, Forrest Corder, Michael Corriveau, Grant Cotter, Timothy Cox, Carson Croby, Harry Crosley, Richard Cullen, Chuck Czinkota, Garnet Dall, Richard Daudt, Larry Davidson, Jeff Davis, Christopher Davis, Jared Davis, Steve - The Panel Pilot Davis, William Day, Robert Deffner, David Del Peso, Jose Derrik, Chuck Desmond, Richard Devine, Steven Devlin, John Dewees, Ron Dial, J.R. Dominey, Clifford Dorsey, Bob Downing, Jeff Dubroc, Tommy Dudley, Richard Duffy, Russell Duncan, John Dunlap, E.T. Dziewiontkoski, Bob Eagleston, Ron Eagleston, Ronald Eastburn, James Elder, William Elhai, Irv Emrath, Marty Ensing, Dale Ervin, Thomas Erwin, Chip - Czech Aircraft Works Evans, Monte Exstrom, Daniel Faile, David Farrar, Jeffrey Farris, Paul Fetzer, George Fiedler, Mike Filucci, Michael - Red Dragon Aviaion Finch, K Flaherty, Edward Floyd, Joseph Ford, David Forrest, Gerald Forsting, Robert Fortner, Earl Four Star Products Frank, Dan Franz, Carl Frazier, Vince Frederick, Mark French, Edwin Friedman, Frank Froehlich, Carl Fromm, John Fry, John Funk, Edwin Jr. Funnell, Augustus George, William Gilbert, Mark Giusti, Roberto Glaser, Arthur Glass, Roy Glover, Ken Gold, Andy - Builder's Book Store Goldberg, Mark Good, Chris Gooding, Lawrence Goolsby, Jim Gott, Shelby Goudreault, Jacques Graham, James Jr. Grant, Jordan Griffin, Bill Griffin, Randy Groom, Larry Guillosso, Alain Hale, Michael Hales, Sherman Hall, Bob Hall, Thomas Hamer, Steven Hamilton, Thom Hamilton, William Hand, Chris Hansen, Ronald Hargis, Merle Harmon, John Harper, Malcom Harrill, Roy Harris, John Hart, Daniel Harvey, Doug Hassall, J.C. Hastedt, Margaret Hatch, Fletcher III Hatcher, Clive Hatfield, Cecil Hays, Wes Henderson, George Henderson, Randall Heritch, Ian Herndon, Richard Herren, Bill Hevern, Jerry Hiatt, Mark Hiers, Craig Hinch, Christopher Hine, Joe Hinkley, Curtis Hinrichsen, James Hodge, Jack Hodgson, Bob Hodson, Frank Hoffman, Carl Holcombe, Richard Horton, Kevin Hoshowski, Ken Hrycauk, Dave Hughes, Robert Hulen, Fred Hundley, Richard Hurd, James Hurlbut, Steve Hutcheson, Ken Ihlenburg, Fred Ingram, Jim Irace, Bill Irwin, Eric Isler, Jerry Ivers, James James, Larry Janes, Bob Janicki, Steven Japundza, Bob Jeens, Ken Johannsson, Johann Johnson, Jackie Johnson, Stephen Jones, Bryan Jones, Rob Jones, Russ Jonker, Bill Jordan, Thomas Jory, Rick Kampthorne, Hal Kayner, Dennis Keithley, Rick King, Da Ve Kirby, Dennis Kirby, Graham Kirtland, Charles Kitz, John Knezacek, Dan Knievel, Gerald Knoll, Bruce Kosta, Michael Kowalski, Ed Krueger, Dan Krueger, Scott Kuss, Charlie Laczko, Frank Sr. Lamb, Richard Lane, Kevin Lassen, Finn Laurence, Peter Laverty, Mike Lawson, John Leaf, Dave Lee, John Lee, Ric LeGare, Garry Leggette, Len Leonard, William Lerohl, Gaylen Lervold, Randy Lewis, Terry Lewis, Tim Ligon, Howard Lind, Laird Linebaugh, Jeffrey Loeber, Wayne Ludeman, Bruce Lutes, Rick Mac Donald, Lawrence MacKay, Alex Malczynski, Francis Mandell, Tom Marino, Anthony Marion, Chris Markert, Michael Marshall, Robert Martin, Tom Maxson, Phil Mazatuad, Mme Hyun Sook McElhoe, Bruce McFarlane, Lloyd McGee, Michael McHarry, Joe McHenry, Tedd McKibben, Gerald McNamara, Don Melder, Frank Melia, Tom Metzger, Stephen Meyers, John Miller, Jim & Dondi - Aircraft Technical Support Mitchell, Duane Moen, Craig Mojzisik, Allan Molzen, Jason Mondy, Malia Moore, Thomas Moore, Warren Morelli, Bill Morelli, William Morris, Daniel III Morrison, Mark Morrow, Dan Moulin, Roger Munn, Mike Murphy, Ray Jr. Neal, Danny Nellis, Michael Nelson, James Nelson, Jim Newell, Alan Nguyen, Thomas Nice, James Nicely, Vincent Norris, Rob Nowakowski, Donald Noyer, Robert Nuckolls, Robert Olendorf, Scott Olson, Larry Olson, Tom Orear, Jeffrey Owens, Laird Palinkas, Gary Pardue, Larry Paulson, Craig Peck, Bill & Kathy Peer, Michael - Jem Aviation Peryk, Dennis Peternel, Stanley Petersen, Eric Petersen, Paul Peterson, Alex Pflanzer, Randy Phillips, Mark Pickrell, Jim Pike, Richard Pinneo, George Pittenger, Dick Plathey, Claude Point, Jeff Polstra, Philip Porter, Richard Porter, Robert Potter, Mark Pretzsch, Robert Ragsdale, Bill Randolph, George Ransom, Ben Rathbun, Richard Reeck, Jay Reed, Derek Reed, Frank Reisdorfer, Mark Reynolds, Richard Richardson, Ray - Powersport Aviation Inc. Riedlinger, Paul Riley, Stuart Roach, Brian Rodgers, Brian Rosales, Paul Rowbotham, Charles Rowles, Les Rozendaal, Doug Rutherford, Ted Sa, Carlos Sager, Jim Sailer, Martin SanClemente, Andrew Sapp, Doug Sargent, Tom Sax, Samuel Schemmel, Grant Schippers, John Schmitt, Clayton Schneeflock, Robert Schrimmer, Mark Schwarz, Guillermo Selby, Jim - JKL Aviation Sales Seward, Douglas Shackleford, Howard Shafer, Jim Shank, Bill Sheets, Douglas Shenk, Doug Shepherd, Dallas Shettel, Maurice Shipley, Walter Sigmon, Harvey Silverstein, Chuck Sipp, Dick Slaughter, Mike Small, Thomas Smith, Clayton Smith, Edmund Smith, Philip Smith, Shelby Smithey, Lloyd Snyder, David Solecki, John Sparks, Timothy Stafford, David Staub, Skip Steer, Bill Stobbe, Bruce Stoffers, Larry Stone, James Strandjord, Eric Swaney, Mark Tauch, Eric Tauchen, Bryan Taylor, Tod Team Rocket Thayer, George Therrien, Michel Thistelthwaite, Geoffrey Thoman, Daniel Thomas, Lee Thomas, Tim Thompson, Michael Todd, John Tompkins, Jeff Tower, John True, George Tucker, Harold Tuton, Beauford Tyrrel, Charles Upshur, Bill Uribe, Guillermo Uribe, Gullermo Utterback, Thomas Van Der Sanden, Gert Vandervort, Ronald VanGrunsven, Stanley Varnes, William Volum, Peter Von Ruden, Dennis VonLindern, Paul Vosberg, Roy Waligroski, Gregg Walker, Tommy Walrath, Howard Ward, Ed Warren, John Washburn, Oliver Watson, Dennis Watson, Terrence Watson, William Webb, Randol Weber, Ed Weber, Edward Weller, Michael Wendel, Jim Wentzell, David Werner, Russ Werner, Russell Westridge, David Whelan, Thomas Whiler, Douglas Whitehead, Arthur Wiesel, Dan Wigney, John Williams, Jimmy Williams, Keith Williams, Lawrence Willig, Louis Wills, Mike Wilson, Billy Wittman, James Wood, Denton Wood, John Wood, Mark Worstell, Glen Worthington, Victor Wotring, Dale Wymer, Gerald Young, Charles Young, Rollin Youngblood, Barry Zeidman, Richard Zigaitis, Kestutis Zinkham, Ralph Zwart, Frank -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Navaid install etc.
Date: Dec 05, 1999
RV-8ers, Help! I'm at the point of installing all the stuff that goes under the pilot butt... Navaid servo, com & xpndr antennas, wing wiring multiconnectors through the side, etc. The plan for fitting all of this stuff in must clearly be a coordinated one considering how they all fit together. Of course future accessibility must be kept in mind with the front part of the floor removeable, but the rear portions pop-riveted down. So, I have the following questions for all you RV-8 guys ahead of me... 1. Does anyone have any photos of how they mounted the Navaid servo and connected it to the W807? 2. Have you put doublers above your antennas, and if so what size? 3. Where did you penetrate the main spar for the antenna leads (and other electrical stuff)? 4. Is there such a thing as a right angle BNC connector for the two antennas so as to possibly fit below the Navaid servo? Any experience, and especially photos, would be appreciated. Thanks! Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, just took the wings back off www.pacifier.com/~randyl Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 1999
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 12/05/99
We used nut plates and 8/32 screws on all our floor panels instead of pop rivets... Larry xlax Lovisone RV8 N248PL kit #24 RV8 weak wing theory http://rvators.com/rv8wing.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 08, 1999
Subject: TAPPING SCREW HOLES
IN THE PROCESS OF MOUNTING MY RADIO STACK TRAYS AND TAPPING THE 26 SCREW HOLES I NEEDED, I FOUND AN EASIER WAY TO DO IT. INSTEAD OF USING THE T-HANDLE WITH THE TAP, ( I BROKE OFF TWO TAPS LEARNING THIS, 632'S) I PUT THE TAP IN MY 18V CORDLESS DRILL, SET THE TORGUE AT THE LOWEST SETTING AND THEN EFFORTLESSLY SCREWED THE TAP IN AND OUT UNTIL THE HOLE WAS COMPLETE. I DID NOT BREAK ANY MORE TAPS AND CUT THE TIME IN HALF. IT'S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO GET A BROKEN TAP OUT AND EASIER TO JUST START WITH A NEW PIECE. YOU WON'T NEED TO MAKE A NEW PIECE IF YOU USE THIS METHOD. RV80127 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 1999
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port
Clay, I called Lycoming about this as my Lycoming Overhauled engine came from the factory with a AN-6 nipple attached to this port. The Lycoming Rep said that " this is an alternate port and would like me to use the primary port instead," I'm using AN -8 fittings anyway. Joe ---------- > From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net> > To: RV List > Subject: RV-List: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port > Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:38 AM > > > Hi folks, > It's finally time to connect the oil lines to/from the oil cooler. > Figure 7-4 of the Textron Lycoming Operator's Manual shows the 'oil to > cooler' port for the 0-360-A series. This port is between the magnetos > in a tough place to get at. Figure 7-3 shows the alternate 'oil to > cooler' port location. > > I'm not familiar with the engine's internal oil plumbing. Will I get > the same cooling effect by using the alternate 'oil to cooler' > location? Is there a significant difference between the effectiveness > of the primary and alternate 'oil to cooler' ports? > > I appreciate your thoughts on the subject. > > Clay Smith, RV-4 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Sam James wheel pants
Date: Dec 13, 1999
Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out? My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work. Thanks, Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior www.pacifier.com/~randyl Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 1999
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: Sam James wheel pants
Why are SJ wheelpants better than Van's? Joe (front windshield) Randy Lervold wrote: > > Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on > RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out? > My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work. > > Thanks, > Randy Lervold > RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior > www.pacifier.com/~randyl > Home Wing VAF > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 1999
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Engine Choice...
Paul, I bought a Overhauled O-360 A1A from Lycoming. The warranty doesn't start until I start my engine, just like Bart's. I know this for a fact. I believe it is the same for the new engines also. Joe RV-8 # 80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Dec 15, 1999
Subject: Glass Cockpit
Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is? I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few static source instruments as possible. A follow up question would be, what's available in the class cockpit category to replace the standard instrument cluster? I will of course be going with the Vision Microsystems for my engine monitoring needs but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of altimeter, directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb, and attitude gyro. - Jim RV-8A QB ( N89JA - reserved ) empennage almost done... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 1999
From: Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com>
Subject: Re: Glass Cockpit
Check the EFIS unit on this web page. It includes all engine instruments as well. Its all electronic and requires no vacuum system. Also has a slave compass system. It is what is going into my Rocket kit when it arrives in June. http://www.archangel.com/efis.htm The base web site address has all the details on other products they have as well as pricing. www.archangel.com Scot > > >Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is? > >I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few static source >instruments as possible. > >A follow up question would be, what's available in the class cockpit >category to >replace the standard instrument cluster? > >I will of course be going with the Vision Microsystems for my engine monitoring >needs but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of altimeter, >directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb, and attitude gyro. > >- Jim >RV-8A QB ( N89JA - reserved ) >empennage almost done... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com>
Subject: Re: Glass Cockpit
Date: Dec 17, 1999
> Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is? The minimum required instrumentation can be found by looking at FAR 91.205, which reads in part: (b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the following instruments and equipment are required: (1) Airspeed indicator. (2) Altimeter. (3) Magnetic direction indicator. (4) Tachometer for each engine. (5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system. (6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine. (7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine. (8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine. (9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank. (10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable landing gear. While the FAR states that this is for Standard Category aircraft, I doubt an airworthiness inspector would allow less than this minimum list. > I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few > static source instruments as possible. If you're building a VFR airplane, there's really no reason to have any vacuum instruments at all. The minimum pitot-static insturments would be the altimeter and airspeed indicator. No other pitot-static instruments are required. > ....but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of > altimeter, directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb, > and attitude gyro. I'm not sure there are electronic replacements for the altimeter and airspeed indicator that would pass muster with the Feds. There may be suplimental electronic instruments for these functions, but I'm pretty sure they're going to require you to have the "old fashioned" ones in there too. Someone else might have more info on this. All the other instruments you mention would only be necessary if you're going to equip the airplane for IFR flying, which it appears you're trying to avoid. Joe Norris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 1999
From: Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com>
Subject: Re: Glass Cockpit
>--> RV-List message posted by: "A. W. Triff" > >>I will use the Archangel EFIS. I will have a backup Altimeter and Airspeed >>indicator. The S-Tec autopilot I am using is incorporated in a Turn >>Coordinator so these 3 three instruments will be my partial panel IFR >>backup cluster. >> > >Scott, > >I'm interested in finding out how much research you've done on the glass >cockpit. Have you been quoted a price yet from Archangel? Yours sounds >like exactly what I want to do with my Rocket. Are you planning on being >IFR cert? > >Thanks for the info! > >Regards, >Wes Triff >tekrep(at)wans.net >RV-8 tail/F-1 Rocket #0014 >Atlanta I do plan to IFR certify the airplane and fly it in light IFR. I have collected marketing info and have a price of approx. $25,000 for a complete system, but I have received recent info about some disgruntled folks who have purchased the system. I just got off the phone with a guy named James Rahm. He is a partner in a company in Florida that builds very high horsepower Chevy V-8's for airplanes. He races his Lancair IVP and wins a lot to demonstrate his engine company's performance capabilities. He installed the Archangel system 4 years ago and it has never worked. He has had it back to the factory 20 times and has had terrible support. He is their flagship customer and the support was still terrible. After 4 years he finally gave up and asked them to take the system back and return his money. They refused so now he takes every chance to tell his story of being stranded in various strange towns 1,000 miles from home, having to pull the system out of the airplane and shipping it to Archangel and waiting 3 days in a hotel for them to send it back so he could reinstall it and get home. That happened 4 times. In the mean time, he is out $20,000 on a system that he doesn't have the heart to sell to anyone else. Anyway, now for the good news. He has since installed the Sierra Flight Systems unit and has only fabulous things to say about it. I have started to gather info on their system and am very impressed. Check it out at www.sierraflightsystems.com. Poke around in there and download their demo. It is incredible!!! The price is a bit higher at $29,900 but the features are significantly better with the 3D mapping and vision system and the Velocity Vector projection system. It is true "Hiway in the Sky" representation. This stuff is new and should be carefully considered. You should definitely plan on some key backup analog instruments to get you on the ground in IFR in case the system fails. But just to lend some more credibility, they are persuing FAA certification on this system to be used in certified aircraft with the same software, hardware and features. The testing involved to get this certification makes me feel more confident in the product. Although, Archangel is about to get a similar certification for another one of their products. So maybe certification isn't all that confidence building. Let me know if you find out more than what I've told you here. What is the progress of your Rocket? My fast-build arrives in June and I anticipate a 1.5 year build time. Scot ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Dec 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Glass Cockpit
A little additional research in the FARs also uncovered a requirement FAR 135.159 for a gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator for VFR night flight. It looks like there are some pretty good glass cockpit ( affordable ) alternatives to a vacuum system ( from companies like RMI, Navaid, and Vision Micro Systems to name a few ), with plenty of room left over for pitot-static backups of critical systems. Some even have RS-232 outputs so that computer geeks like me still have some room for experimentation. Thanks to all for the good feedback, - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ Empennage N89JA (reserved ) "Joe Norris" on 12/17/99 02:57:00 PM Please respond to rv8-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit > Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is? The minimum required instrumentation can be found by looking at FAR 91.205, which reads in part: (b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the following instruments and equipment are required: (1) Airspeed indicator. (2) Altimeter. (3) Magnetic direction indicator. (4) Tachometer for each engine. (5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system. (6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine. (7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine. (8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine. (9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank. (10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable landing gear. While the FAR states that this is for Standard Category aircraft, I doubt an airworthiness inspector would allow less than this minimum list. > I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few > static source instruments as possible. If you're building a VFR airplane, there's really no reason to have any vacuum instruments at all. The minimum pitot-static insturments would be the altimeter and airspeed indicator. No other pitot-static instruments are required. > ....but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of > altimeter, directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb, > and attitude gyro. I'm not sure there are electronic replacements for the altimeter and airspeed indicator that would pass muster with the Feds. There may be suplimental electronic instruments for these functions, but I'm pretty sure they're going to require you to have the "old fashioned" ones in there too. Someone else might have more info on this. All the other instruments you mention would only be necessary if you're going to equip the airplane for IFR flying, which it appears you're trying to avoid. Joe Norris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com>
Subject: Re: Glass Cockpit
Date: Dec 18, 1999
> A little additional research in the FARs also uncovered a requirement FAR > 135.159 for a gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator for VFR night flight. As this is a part 135 regulation, it only applies to Part 135 charter operations. Our RV-8s wouldn't be involved in this, so this "requirement" won't apply to us. Part 91 ops, which includes the flying done in homebuilt aircraft, has no such requirement. Joe Norris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 1999
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: First Flight
Bill, Congratulations! You still have to be on cloud 9. I too am looking forward to more of your experiences and numbers. Man do I envy you. It certainly is a real accomplishment. This kind of post makes me want to finish even faster! Congratulations again. I hope some day we can fly together. Joe #80125 (I know I can't beat Brian Denk into the air, but maybe I have a shot at Mike Robertson!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lawrence08(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 26, 1999
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 12/25/99
Please delete me from this RV8 list digest. Thanks--Jim Lawrence ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 2000
Subject: Re: LANDING LIGHTS FLASHER
COULD SOMEONE HELP ME WITH A WIRING DIAGRAM AND THE FLASHER PART NUMBER (WHERE DO I BUY IT) SO I CAN INSTALL FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS. THANKS!! ED KOWALSKI 80127 SALNED71(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "terje.kobro(at)platou.com
by fep1.mta.online.no (InterMail v4.01.01.07 201-229-111-110) with ESMTP id" <20000103125811.CUTZ547.fep1(at)exchange.platou.com>
Subject: Re: LANDING LIGHTS FLASHER
Date: Jan 03, 2000
ed - do yu mind copying me?? need same regards terje kobro-norway > -----Original Message----- > From: SALNED71(at)aol.com [mailto:SALNED71(at)aol.com] > Sent: 3. januar 2000 12:45 > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Re: LANDING LIGHTS FLASHER > > > > COULD SOMEONE HELP ME WITH A WIRING DIAGRAM AND THE FLASHER > PART NUMBER > (WHERE DO I BUY IT) SO I CAN INSTALL FLASHING LANDING LIGHTS. > > THANKS!! ED KOWALSKI 80127 > SALNED71(at)AOL.COM > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Drilling F-843 lower longeron - RV-8
Folks, I'm baffled. I'm ready to drill the F-843 lower longeron on my RV-8. I can't figure out what the lateral position of the aft end should be. The longeron is 0.125 thick. Butting up to the aft end of it, we find the F-804C, 0.040 thick, and the F-804H, 0.063 thick, for a total thickness of 0.103. The F-845 gusset goes behind the whole works. If I position the F-843 so the inside face is flush with the inside of the F-804C, the outside edge will make a step. This looks like it would screw up the fit of the skins. If I make the outside face of the F-843 flush with the F-804H, the F-845 gusset will not fit tight against the F-804C. I've looked over the plans, but I can't find a good detail of this area. What am I missing? Am I supposed to put a shim on the inside, between the F-804C and the F-845 gusset? I had hoped to drill the F-822 and F-820 skins tonight, but I guess I'll stop drilling and deburr a bunch of stuff until I figure this out. :-( Thanks for your wisdom, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 13, 2000
Subject: GALL'S WIG-WAG FLASHER
CAN THE FLASHER BE MOUNTED CLOSE TO THE RADIO STACK OR WILL THIS CAUSE INTERFERANCE. OR SHOULD IT BE MOUNTED IN THE FUSELAGE OR WING. THANKS ED...80127 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 13, 2000
Subject: SENCO CO DETECTOR
WHERE CAN THE SENCO CO DETECTOR BE LOOKED AT AND PURCHASED? ED...80127 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Jan 15, 2000
Subject: 1999 List of Contributors #2!
Dear Listers, Below is the final List of Contributors for 1999 as promised. Again, I would like to thank everyone that made a generous contribution in 1999 to support the continued operation of these email Lists. Your support directly makes the quality and quantity of this service possible. Thank you! Matt Dralle EMail List Administrator RV-4 Builder, #1763 - N442RV =================== 1999 List of Contributors #2 ==================== Adamson, Arden Allender, Patrick Anonymous from MN Asher, M.E. Baxter, Rob Bell, Doug Bendure, Ryan Bergh, David Berrie, Robert Blake, J.I. Boucher, Michel Bragg, Medford Briegleb, Ross Brietigam, Charles Broomell, Glenn Brusilow, Michael Chatham, Robert Clary, Buck Coats, Lonnie Cook, Craig - Golf Instruments Co. Cooper, James Cribb, William Jr. Crosby, Harry Dane, Bill Von Dziewiontkoski, Bob Ellenberger, Mike Embree, Roger Faatz, Mitch Fasching, John Gibbons, Robert Glauser, David Gold, Andy -Builder's Bookstore 10% Gregory, Steve Grenier, Raymond Guarino, Michael H., Harold - E.P.M.AV Corp Hale, Brian Hunt, Wallace Johnston, Leroy Jordon, Don Killion, Clay Klingmuller, Dr. L.M. Magaw, David Mains, Ralph Maltby, Michael Martin, Cliff - Martin Metal Fab Mazataud, Hyun Sook McBride, Duncan McDonald, James Mendenhall, Elbie - E.M Aviation Mitchell, Duane Morley, Harold Peck, Phil Pessel, Garnett Rodebush, James Ross, Jonathan Schmidt, John Scully, William Smith, Steven Spence, Stephen Triff, Wes Wagoner, Richard Weaver, Brian Wiegenstein, John Wiley, Robert Wilson, Donald -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: How to run out of longeron stock
Hi there, I recently had a frustrating experience that I will share in the hope that it will save someone else. I am drilling the aft fuselage side skins on my RV-8, and it was time to fit the lower and mid aft longerons (F-888 & F-889). Well, I discovered that while I had protected the pieces for the long, lower F-889 longerons, I had managed to leave myself short one piece for the mid aft F-888 longerons. I had lots of stock, but only one piece was long enough. The second piece that I thought I had turned out to be 0.125 instead of 0.063. Van sent me the right lengths, I just messed up. I think the error was made when cutting the pieces for the angles that mount the tie downs in the wing. So, if you've got the wing kit, mark several pieces of 3/4 x 3/4 x 0.063 angle. For the RV-8 fuselage, you will need two pieces 105" long, and two pieces 57" long. Fortunately another local builder has his fuselage kit, but he is several months behind me, so he was kind enough to loan me some angle. We discovered that he also managed to cut a critical piece, and he would not have had enough for the second 57" piece either. Another builder has just ordered his RV-3 wing and fuselage kits, so I will get some more angle sent in his kit. I also discovered another creative way to short yourself. Apparently there are people thick enough to determine the length of the mid aft longeron by measuring from the F-807 to the F-809 bulkheads. Well, if you aren't careful to make sure the F-809 is vertical, you could end up with a piece 1/2 inch too short. Arrgh!! A better way to measure is to measure against the pre-punched F-824 skin, or just trust me that 57 inches will leave you with a little bit of extra to trim off later. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Jan 16, 2000
Subject: Confusion Over "List of Contributors"...
Hi Listers, I'm really sorry for the confusion over the most recent posting of the List of Contributors #2. List #2 contained only the contributor names *since* the List #1 was posted. So, if you weren't on List #2, you were likely on List #1. Below are URLs to each of the LOC #x postings. Again, sorry for the confusion. I should have made it more clear in the verbiage. Thanks to everyone, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ============================= LOC #1 and #2 ================================ List of Contributors #1 - 1999 ------------------------------ http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO List of Contributors #2 - 1999 ------------------------------ http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO ============================================================================ -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 2000
From: Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: (Whoops) Confusion Over "List of Contributors"...
> >Okay, here are the *real* URLs. Sorry... > > >Matt Dralle >Email List Admin. > > >============================= LOC #1 and #2 ================================ > > > List of Contributors #1 - 1999 > ------------------------------ > > >http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_ >of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO > > > List of Contributors #2 - 1999 > ------------------------------ > > >http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=53146?KEYS=list_ >of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=YES > > >============================================================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Jan 16, 2000
Subject: Re: (No, Really - Here are the URLs) Confusion Over "List of
Contributors"... Geeze, I can't seem to type today. Here are the *real*, *REAL* URLs. Sorry for so many posts... Ack Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ============================= LOC #1 and #2 ================================ List of Contributors #1 - 1999 ------------------------------ http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO List of Contributors #2 - 1999 ------------------------------ http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=53146?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO ============================================================================ -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Northwest Connection" <fly737(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Custom Canopies
Date: Jan 16, 2000
I was wondering if anyone could provide me with some recommendations on where I can get a custom canopy made to order -- somewhere in the Northwest would be best. Thanks. Ted Burke ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 F-826, 827 & 842 gotcha
Hi guys and gals, I'm drilling the skins to my RV-8 fuselage, and had a minor gotcha tonight. Not a real big deal, but I sure wish I could do it all over again, knowing what I know now. I drilled the F-826 & F-827 bottom center skins. They cleco to the F-804 at the front, and then just sit on top of the seat ribs until you drill and cleco them. So far so good (so I thought). Then I grabbed the F-842 aft bottom skin, and slipped it under the F-826 & F-827. It has match holes that are supposed to match up with holes at the aft end of the F-826 & F-827. Well, I quickly discovered that I couldn't match up with both the F-826 & F-827 at the same time. It turns out that there is enough slop in the holes clecoed at the front of the F-826 & F-827 to let the aft ends move slightly. I ended up with the aft ends of the F-826 & 827 about 3/32 inch too close together, i.e. the holes that should match up with the F-842 were 3/32 too close together. How do you prevent this from happening? Well, I would do two things differently if I could do it all over again. First, when drilling the F-822 (or F-890 for the -8A), I wouldn't drill out the holes that hold it to the F-804. Those are the holes that you cleco the F-826 & 827 to, so you will get a tighter fit if they are not drilled out yet. You have to drill them again when fitting the F-826 & 827 anyway, so there is no point in doing them when fitting the F-822. Second, when drilling the F-826 & 827, I would consider clecoing them to the F-804, and then putting the F-842 in place, clecoing the match holes in it to the F-826 & 827. Then I would drill the center hole at the aft edge of the F-826 & F-827 to lock them together. That way you have a reference to make sure that the match holes on the aft edges of the F-826 & 827 are right distance apart when fitting the F-842. Anyway, it wasn't a big disaster. I drilled a couple of extra holes to compensate for the figure 8 ones I've got now. It is on the bottom of the fuselage, and if I catch any of you guys crawling under there to take a look I might accidentally step on your hand to distract you :-) I think I will send a note to Van's. They could solve the hole problem by putting a hole at the aft end of the F-827 to match up with the line of holes down the inboard edge of the F-826. Failing that, the Construction Manual should not tell you to drill the aft edge of the F-822 to the F-804 too early. Still having fun, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LaurenMWilliams(at)webtv.net (Lauren Williams)
Date: Jan 17, 2000
Subject: Re: Custom Canopies
Isn't Gee Bee Canopies in the Northwest somewhere? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: Custom Canopies
Ted, The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is called Foxlite) will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I had Van's delete my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from Foxlite instead. The canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it. Joe RV-8 # 80125 Northwest Connection wrote: > > I was wondering if anyone could provide me with some recommendations on > where I can get a custom canopy made to order -- somewhere in the Northwest > would be best. Thanks. > > Ted Burke > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Custom Canopies
Date: Jan 18, 2000
Tell us more. Don't Van's canopies have a slight tint to them? Is yours REALLY dark? Can you still fly at night? How much more did you pay? Thanks, Larry Bowen RV-8 tanks Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe > Czachorowski > Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 1:01 PM > Ted, > > The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is > called Foxlite) > will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I > had Van's delete > my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from > Foxlite instead. The > canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it. > > Joe > RV-8 # 80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Melby <pmelby(at)midwestinfo.com>
Subject: anodize vs alodine/prime
Date: Jan 19, 2000
I'm considering havine the internal components of my wing anodized. Priming the entire lot seems too daunting a task (firing up the paint booth sucks the heat out of my shop in short order). Are there any precautions I should take? Peter J. Melby pmelby(at)midwestinfor.com RV8 wings in work ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: Custom Canopies
Larry, The canopy that comes in Van's finish kit is tinted, slightly. After flying a bubbled canopy fighter in the Air National Guard, I know how hot it will get and wanted some extra tint. The nice people at Foxlite (in Ohio) sent me some free samples of 3 darker tint's. The one that they recommend (and the one that I selected) is the next darker tint. They said it is the darkest tint that they put on Certified Aircraft. The tint # is 2514. It is certified for night flight. The extra cost was $53 dollars (1998 dollars). All money transactions are handled through Van's but they drop ship the canopy directly from the factory to your doorstep. Larry Bowen wrote: > > Tell us more. Don't Van's canopies have a slight tint to them? Is yours > REALLY dark? Can you still fly at night? How much more did you pay? > > Thanks, > > Larry Bowen > RV-8 tanks > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > > -----Original Message----- > > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe > > Czachorowski > > Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 1:01 PM > > Ted, > > > > The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is > > called Foxlite) > > will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I > > had Van's delete > > my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from > > Foxlite instead. The > > canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it. > > > > Joe > > RV-8 # 80125 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2000
From: Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: anodize vs alodine/prime
Precautions - Be prepared to empty your wallet. Anodizing is typically double the cost of professional alodining. Most shops that anodize, can also alodine. Which unless you're really paranoid, would probably suffice for internal corrosion protection. Jeff. On Wed, 19 Jan 2000, Peter Melby wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Peter Melby > > I'm considering havine the internal components of my wing anodized. > Priming the entire lot seems too daunting a task (firing up the paint > booth sucks the heat out of my shop in short order). Are there any > precautions I should take? > > Peter J. Melby > pmelby(at)midwestinfor.com > RV8 wings in work > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Steen Labs Throttle Quadrant
Date: Jan 19, 2000
From: <psmith(at)marin.org>
Hi Everyone: Has anyone used the Steen Aero Labs throttle quadrants in their RV? Specifically, I'd like to fit their three lever quadrant in my RV 8. Rough measurements indicate that it may fit, but there may be issues that I'm unaware of. Thanks, Phil Philip D. Smith RV 8QB, 80691 Fairfax, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 24, 2000
Subject: Re: Kevin Horton Updates
Kevin: Thank you so much for taking the time to continually give updates on your construction. I trail you in your progress by mere days (putting 8A fuselage in the jig) and have used your comments to help in my construction. I love this list !!! Len RV-8A Putting fuselage in jig ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: RV-8 Canopy Mounting
Guys, Thought I would pass along a potential problem when mounting your RV-8 canopy. Well, not really the canopy, but the front windscreen. I mounted the front windscreen according to the instructions, glassed it up, and came back the next morning to check my work. As I looked at it much closer, I found that the front windscreen did not aerodynamically fair into the canopy near the bottom edges of the canopy/windscreen bow. It had a cavity too large to fill with microballons. It just didn't look right. It seemed to me that the front windscreen needed shims between the windscreen and the roll-over bar near the bottom to make a clean aerodynamic shape. I stripped the fiberglass off and redid the front windscreen over with shims. Much better now! I just wish I caught this the first time. Hope this helps someone. Joe RV-8 # 80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy Mounting
Fellow Listers: I would just like to recommend Sacramento Sky Ranch for any engine hoses that you may need. I recently ordered some pretty high-tech noses from them (Stratoflex Teflon with integral firesleeves and stainless steel fittings). I goofed in my measurements and found that one of these was 3/4" too long. I ordered another the correct length and returned the "bad" one not really expecting much, if any, credit since the fittings are crimped and not reusable. Just got a credit in the mail for the full amount. Great folks and beautiful, FAA certified and tested hoses. Doug ============ Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com Doug, I second the motion! I too bought the very same hoses from them and your are right, they are very nice people and very helpful. The hoses are not cheap, but I now have certified pressure tested hoses to go along with my certified, cell tested, certified engine. One less thing to worry about. Joe RV-8 # 80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: C/Sinking for #8 screws, RV-8 LG Box
Hi guys, I have been studiously studying the plans and instructions, trying to make sure I got the tools, etc I needed well in advance of each construction phase. Well, I missed the #8 countersink for the bunch of screws in the RV-8 landing gear boxes. For the moment, I have only drilled the holes #30, so I am thinking about using a big (1/2 inch body) #30 piloted countersink I've got to countersink the underlying longerons, etc. Then I would put the outer skin back on, and final drill for the #8 screws, and then dimple the skin. Of course I will try this out on some scrap first. Does this sound like it might work, or am I wasting my time (and precious scrap) to even try? I'm not worried about the cost of the C/S, but rather the time - it takes quite a while to get stuff up here to Canada, and I don't think I have any hope of finding a #8 piloted C/S locally. I should be in Wichita on Wednesday next week, so I could get Avery to ship one to a friend there, but it doesn't seem likely that it would get to Wichita by Tuesday, so he could bring it to work on Wednesday. I could probably find one at the Boeing surplus place in Wichita, as they had all kinds of new looking countersinks in various sizes last time I was there, but I don't think I'll be able to fit that into the schedule. Are there any other C/Sinks, or other oddball tools I should order now to make sure I don't get stuck again on the RV-8? Oh well, I've got lots of other stuff I can work on, if I have to stop for this. Thanks for your advice, Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 IO-360 cowl with O-360/Airflow Perf FI
I am getting to the stage of my RV-8 project where I need to make some engine decisions, and make a phone call to Bart Lalonde. I love the look of the latest RV-8 cowl for the IO-360, with the air induction taken from the front of the left cooling inlet. But, I'm not sure I am going to have an IO-360A for price and weight reasons. I am toying with the thought of an O-360 with an Airflow Performance fuel injection unit added, which would sort of make it an IO-360B. I know the IO-360A and the O-360A are very different engines. Is there a sump available for the O-360A that would put the Airflow Performance FI unit in the right place to mate up with Van's intake "snake" for the IO-360, without having to do any radical fibreglas surgery? If anyone out there has made this work, please give me details - engine model, any engine parts you had to change or modify, mods to Van's air induction "snake", etc. Would you do it again? If someone else has looked at this idea, and decided it is not possible, I would also like to hear from you. Thanks, Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Panel page updated
Date: Feb 06, 2000
Guys, I made some progress on my panel this weekend and updated my site. If you're interested you can check it out at... http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgPanel.htm Randy Lervold RV-8, N558RL, battle with canopy skirt almost won ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
" \"Randy Griffin\"" , "Jeff Jasinsky"
Subject: Canopy skirt solution
Date: Feb 13, 2000
Fellow 8ers, I have now won the war with my canopy skirt. With some help from a local guru I finally got it on straight. The procedure was to cut it in the back, get the fwd holes drilled, pull the back up to get the rear sides tucked in, then drill the back. Of course then the fitting/sanding process starts. I then glassed the rear back together, filled the gap between the skirt and the plexi that was in the back area, and thought I was done. Last weekend I went to our local chapter fly-in breakfast and looked at four other RV-8 skirts and how they fit in the rear around the track. Didn't like any of them, and all builders who have flown report this is a great source of wind getting into the cockpit. So I went back and did MORE fiberglassing and sanding, but I am glad I did. I've added pics of the final result to my canopy page at http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgCanopy.htm. This should fit closely enough that I will only need a little UHMW tape on the inside edge of the skirt and no foam or anything around the track. Check it out and see what you think. Many thanks to those who have helped with this especially problematic phase (at least for me) including Jon Ross, Brian Denk, and Scott McDaniels. I can hardly wait for the cowling (yea, right!) Randy Lervold #80500, about to shoot the interior www.pacifier.com/~randyl Home Wing, VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2000
From: Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net>
Subject: Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices
RV-8 Builders: I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon request. For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702) 207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos available upon request. Sincerely, KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC. "Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products Sam Knight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Feb 15, 2000
Subject: Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem...
Listers, I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem *ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are *not* affected by the issue. Users of Internet Explorer should use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be developed. IMPORTANT: If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly received and you should resubmit the request using the Netscape Browser, or wait until a solution for the problem with Internet Explorer is completed. The Lists affected by the Internet Explorer issue are: RVCanada-List RVEurope-List Skymaster-List SmithMini-List Sonerai-List Tailwind-List Please note that the Netscape Browser *IS NOT* affected by this problem and all lists can be subscribed to and unsubscribed from without a problem. I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution to this problem. Sorry for the inconvenience, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Feb 15, 2000
"Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem..." (Feb 15, 10:19am)
Subject: Re: Web Subscription Page Operation for Internet Explorer Restored...
Dear Listers, I have rewritten the web page and CGI code for processing List Subscription Requests to now be more compatible with command line limitations of Microsoft's Internet Explorer and some very old versions of Netscape. The page seems to be working fine now on whatever browser I try. Please feel free to resume your normal List Subscription habits. The URL is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. >-------------- > > >Listers, > >I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's >Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at >http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem >*ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are >*not* affected by the issue. Users of Internet Explorer should >use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be >developed. > >IMPORTANT: > >If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the >following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of >the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly >received and you should resubmit the request using the Netscape >Browser, or wait until a solution for the problem with Internet Explorer >is completed. The Lists affected by the Internet Explorer issue are: > > RVCanada-List > RVEurope-List > Sailplane-List > Seaplane-List > Skymaster-List > SmithMini-List > Sonerai-List > Tailwind-List > Ultralight-List > Warbird-List > Yak-List > Zenith-List > > >Please note that the Netscape Browser *IS NOT* affected by this problem >and all lists can be subscribed to and unsubscribed from without a >problem. > >I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution >to this problem. > >Sorry for the inconvenience, > >Matt Dralle >Matronics Email List Admin. >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 Landing gear box notes
Listers, I have finished fabricating and drilling the landing gear boxes on my RV-8, and have put together some notes for future builders. Thanks to the earlier builders who posted their tales of woe, I was able to avoid most of the pitfalls. I've put together a page on my web site that has all my notes: http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/fuselage/f06.html The gotcha's are near the end of the page. I would appreciate comments from previous builders - are there any gotcha's I missed, or any errors in the notes, or parts that could be more clearly worded? Thanks, Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 23, 2000
Subject: Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT
HAS ANYONE PLUMBED HEAT TO THE REAR SEAT AREA YET? IF SO, WHERE DID YOU RUN THE TUBING, AND WHAT SIZE TUBING DID YOU USE? THANKS FOR THE INPUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ED...............80127 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2000
From: Gary Graham <gary(at)colonialmortgage.net>
Subject: S-Tec Auto Pilot Install
Has anyone any experience installing an S-Tec System 30 autopilot in an RV-8? If you have let me know how and where you mounted the roll and pitch servos. Thanks Gary Graham ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
Date: Feb 27, 2000
Builders: Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was installation very difficult. Any comments about this option? Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time. Festus,MO. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
Optional rear seat rudder pedals are very crud... I'm designing a new and improved rear rudder pedals... Larry Chris Santschi wrote: > > Builders: > > Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was > installation very difficult. Any comments about this option? > > Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time. > Festus,MO. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
Date: Feb 29, 2000
Hi Chris, I did, no problem at all. It took me four hours. I modidfied the pedals itself with a rubber surface. The rest remained the same. Plans and parts are good, as usual. Until today the aeroplane is not yet airborne, so we can't give any comment regarding handling in flight. Sincerely Chris Santschi schrieb: > > Builders: > > Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was > installation very difficult. Any comments about this option? > > Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time. > Festus,MO. > > Stephan Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn Germany ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 29, 2000
From: Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
Chris-- I might as well give you the other side of the coin... I ordered the rear seat rudder pedals and have decided not to install them. I think they look kinda hokey, and my wife has long legs (whew! I almost said "big feet"!) and wants to stretch them. I have an obligation to keep my rear passenger happy. It's in my best interest, or so she reminds me. Besides, I decided to make the right midcabin brace area into a storage space, and the pedals would get in the way. The installation looks to be straightforward, however. That should help confuse you. --Don N8RV > Chris Santschi schrieb: > > > > Builders: > > > > Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was > > installation very difficult. Any comments about this option? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Blake" <danblake(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
Date: Mar 01, 2000
I had the opportunity to fly the RV-8A demo from the back seat, and can say with out reservation that they work very well in the air. Did not taxi the aircraft, but will definitely order them with my QB kit. Dan Blake Atlanta 8 tail ----- Original Message ----- From: Chris Santschi <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 6:03 PM Subject: RV8-List: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals > > Builders: > > Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was > installation very difficult. Any comments about this option? > > Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time. > Festus,MO. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 03/01/00
Date: Mar 02, 2000
From: <psmith(at)marin.org>
Chris: I'm installing this option right now on my QB & it's going OK so far. I drilled the pedal/tubes for the rivet holes & have sent them out for powder coating in the matching color to the rest of the interior. When they come back I'll slip on the snap bushings & rivet the rod ends on last. If you have a QB or a finished airplane, it can be tricky to drill the second hole in the idler brackets, because of the lack of space at the foot of the landing gear towers. One hole is already drilled for you, and you match drill the second hole. My angle drill attachment wouldn't fit in the space available, so I took a #12 angle drill bit (very short one) and put it in the hole and twiddled it with my fingers. This marked the center spot for drilling. Then I removed the bracket & progressively drilled it out to #12. I found that you have to file the brackets down somewhat to obtain a snug fit, and because of the slight inaccuracy of marking the drilling spot, I had to enlarge the two drilled holes to #11. Now everything fits nicely. For information on a rivet hole conflict with this kit, I'll refer you to Chuck's page at: http://www.cruzers.com/~chuckwn/ Good luck, Phil, 80691 > Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was > installation very difficult. Any comments about this option? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 05, 2000
Subject: RV-8 ENGINE INSTALLATION
I'M ABOUT TO MOUNT MY NEW AO360A1A ENGINE WITH AIR-FLOW PERFORMANCE INJECTION AND LAZAR IGNITION TO MY RV-8. IS THERE ANY THING I SHOULD MOUNT TO THE FIREWALL BEFORE I MOUNT THE ENGINE?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 05, 2000
Subject: RV-8 804 BULKHEAD
I HAVE 99% OF MY WIRING DONE, THE THROTTLE QUADRANT IS IN, THE MANUAL AILERON TRIM IS IN, IS IT WISE TO CLOSE UP THE 804 BULKHEAD NOW OR WAIT UNTIL A LATER DATE?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 05, 2000
Subject: RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR
HAVE ANY OF THE FINISHED RV-8'S INSTALLED AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE WITH FUEL INJECTION. IF THE RAM AIR SOURCE WAS PLUGGED FOR SOME STRANGE REASON, (BIRD, ICE ) WOULDN'T AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE BE NEEDED?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
Subject: Re: RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR
Date: Mar 06, 2000
Definitely, look to the Mooney 201, they have the same system to copy. I installed an IO360 with RAM and alternate air. Stephan SALNED71(at)aol.com schrieb: > > HAVE ANY OF THE FINISHED RV-8'S INSTALLED AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE WITH FUEL > INJECTION. IF THE RAM AIR SOURCE WAS PLUGGED FOR SOME STRANGE REASON, > (BIRD, ICE ) WOULDN'T AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE BE NEEDED?? > > Stephan Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn Germany ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 06, 2000
Subject: oil cooler fittings-a0360a1a
WHAT OIL COOLER FITTINGS DO I NEED FOR THIS ENGINE, SO I CAN GET THEM INSTALLED BEFORE I MOUNT THE ENGINE??? THANKS ED KOWALSKI ... #80127 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2000
From: Warren & Rhonda Johnson <wjrj(at)carol.net>
Subject: Re: S-Tec Auto Pilot Install
Gary, I called S-tec and they sent me several drawings depicting perfered mounting locations for the roll and pitch servo's. I will mount my roll servo in the wing in the same bay as the aileron bell crank. S-Tec also will sell you just the servos up front so you don't have to shell out funds for the whole system. Also, S-Tec recommends not buying the gyro instrument until instrument panel time. It isn't good to have gyro instruments setting idle for long periods of time. Finishing the first wing #80989 At 03:23 PM 2/23/00, you wrote: > >Has anyone any experience installing an S-Tec System 30 autopilot in an RV-8? >If you have let me know how and where you mounted the roll and pitch servos. > >Thanks > >Gary Graham > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Mar 06, 2000
Subject: RV8A Quick Build Landing Gear
HELP! Is there anyone out there who has installed the landing gear weldments WD-821 L & R on a quick build fuselage? How did you do it? Specifically did you actually have to make the .040 shim called for in the drawings but there is no mention of it in the plans. It looks like you just slap the 821 in place and start drilling, yes? What about the F-895 B spacer? It looks like the F895 doubler plate is already installed. It's extremely hard to make heads or tails out of the drawings. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ Fuse N89JA (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV8A Quick Build Landing Gear
Hiya Jim... I drilled through the skins to gain access for drilling the spacers... To me... it looks like this spacer should have been done before the skin was installed... but wasn't... Larry N248PL RV8 quick build kit #008 Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > HELP! > > Is there anyone out there who has installed the landing gear weldments WD-821 L > & R on a quick build fuselage? > > How did you do it? Specifically did you actually have to make the .040 shim > called for in the drawings but there is no mention of it in the plans. It looks > like you just slap the 821 in place and start drilling, yes? What about the > F-895 B spacer? It looks like the F895 doubler plate is already installed. > It's extremely hard to make heads or tails out of the drawings. > > Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. > > - Jim Andrews > RV-8AQ Fuse > N89JA (reserved) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Andair Fuel Valve - Installation
Date: Mar 08, 2000
From: <psmith(at)marin.org>
Hello Fellow Builders: I'm about to install my shiny new Andair valve. Van's say they've never installed one themselves & can't offer any help! I was wondering if anyone had any tips? Did you install a doubler plate? It seems that the brace that's included in the kit for Van's brass valve won't be needed. With a bit of luck I can squeeze the Airflow performance pump into the same space... Thanks, Phil, 80691 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Mar 09, 2000
Subject: Medical certification help
Sorry to be a little off the subject guys but I just had to pass this on... I'm an insulin dependent diabetic pilot and I had to jump through flaming hoops to get approval for my special issuance medical. At the time I applied for it there were only 19 insulin dependent diabetic pilots in the entire U.S. The Doc I used has a special talent for packaging your medical info just the way the FAA likes to see it. I received my approval in record time. In my case it was a long distance consult since I live in Texas and his practice is in California. He can be reached at his website http://www.flightsurgeon.com or email at skydoc(at)sprintmail.com if anyone else can use his services. - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse N89JA (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SMOKIN222(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 12, 2000
Subject: Re: PLEASE READ - Matronics Systems Upgrades...
Matt--Will you please delete me from all matronic e-mail except the RV 6, 6-A ,* and 8-A. I would appreciate it. I'm getting flooded with matronics e-mail--apparently because I filled the initial information out wrong. Thank you. Sid Van landingham, Smokin 222(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX
>HAS ANYONE DETERMINED THE BEST LOCATION AND ORIENTATION FOR THE CABIN HEAT >BOX IN THE RV-8. I HAVE THE SMALLER ROBBINS TRIANGULAR SHAPED BOX AND AM >WONDERING IF I SHOULD INSTALL IT BEFORE OR AFTER MOUNTING THE ENGINE (0 360 >A1A). IT SEEMS THAT IT WOULD BE MUCH EASIER NOW THAN AFTER THE ENGINE IS >ON. > > THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..........ED.80127 > I don't think there is any such thing as a "best" location, but I put it right about dead center on the bottom so the heat comes out right by my feet. The heat makes it back into the cabin pretty well. I still don't have quite enough flow coming through it, but that's simply an issue of where I'm getting the air from in the first place. I'll fix that one of these days. There are pics on my web page that show where I put it. Yes, it is much easier to make that big hole now without the engine or anything else in the way. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD Did the same. I mounted my cabin heat selector box dead center just high enough to clear the adjustable rudder pedals attachment. I wanted the hot air to blow straight back to the rear passenger, but according to Brian, I may need more flow. Definitely drill the hole before you mount the engine. Also, if you have a VM1000 fuel flow transducer, figure out where that will go also. Joe #80125 (attaching wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX
Date: Mar 17, 2000
i put mine in the center also just above the rudder pedal bracket,and also one just below the baggage floor in the center, this one is athree way so i can mix cool air with the heat and use it for cool air when it's warm, i am picking the cool air up on the back left engine baffle. I have a 3" on the back right engine baffle that goes to my heat muff a large hanlin-wilson unit w/ 2 2" ducts going to the cabin heat inlets. -----Original Message----- From: Joe Czachorowski [SMTP:midnight(at)udel.edu] Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 09:03 Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX >HAS ANYONE DETERMINED THE BEST LOCATION AND ORIENTATION FOR THE CABIN HEAT >BOX IN THE RV-8. I HAVE THE SMALLER ROBBINS TRIANGULAR SHAPED BOX AND AM >WONDERING IF I SHOULD INSTALL IT BEFORE OR AFTER MOUNTING THE ENGINE (0 360 >A1A). IT SEEMS THAT IT WOULD BE MUCH EASIER NOW THAN AFTER THE ENGINE IS >ON. > > THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..........ED.80127 > I don't think there is any such thing as a "best" location, but I put it right about dead center on the bottom so the heat comes out right by my feet. The heat makes it back into the cabin pretty well. I still don't have quite enough flow coming through it, but that's simply an issue of where I'm getting the air from in the first place. I'll fix that one of these days. There are pics on my web page that show where I put it. Yes, it is much easier to make that big hole now without the engine or anything else in the way. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD Did the same. I mounted my cabin heat selector box dead center just high enough to clear the adjustable rudder pedals attachment. I wanted the hot air to blow straight back to the rear passenger, but according to Brian, I may need more flow. Definitely drill the hole before you mount the engine. Also, if you have a VM1000 fuel flow transducer, figure out where that will go also. Joe #80125 (attaching wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 18, 2000
Subject: RV-8 VM1000 & AIRFLOW PERFORMANCE INSTALLATION
MY ENGINE IS NOT MOUNTED YET. I'M INSTALLING THE 0360A1A WITH THE AIRFLOW PERFORMANCE INJECTION. WHAT ARE THE DO'S AND DONT'S FOR INSTALLING THE VM1000? IS THERE A BETTER PLACE FOR THE DPU WITH ALL THOSE WIRES COMING OUT? IT SEEMS LIKE IT WILL BE QUITE CROWDED AND MESSY. I DO NOT HAVE THE E100. SHOULD I BE PUTTING ANYTHING ON THE ENGINE BEFORE I MOUNT IT. IS THERE A BEST PLACE FOR THE FUEL FLOW TRANSDUCER? ALL I'VE DONE IS READ THE MANUALS SO FAR AND WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP FROM ANYONE WHO'S BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT. THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...................ED KOWALSKI...#80127 WILMINGTON, IL. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2000
From: Gary Graham <gary(at)colonialmortgage.net>
Subject: Vision Microsystem Fuel Probes
I am trying to install the fuel gauges for Vision Microsystem in my RV-8 QB. Since my tanks are already complete I can't figure out a way to get the probes installed. The probes are about 4' long and are supposed to be inserted into the tank from the lowest point to the highest point. The probes can be cut to any useable length but you lose accuracy as you shorten. If I try to install with out tearing the tanks apart, the best I can get is about 18" into the tank. I'm afraid this will give me accurate readings for only the bottom of the tank. Has anyone run into this problem? Van's says build the probes into the tank but that is not an option. Are there any other probes that accomkplish the job without dismantling the entire tank? Gary Graham RV-8 QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JGlader(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 20, 2000
Subject: Re: Vision Microsystem Fuel Probes
an access in each bay is somthing i have seen done at the rear of the tank,to do this very thing . John Glader RV-8 qb N21TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Fwd: RV-8 for sale
I received the following info about an RV-8 for sale. Please reply directly to Robin, at blabrash(at)rockisland.com I don't know else about the aircraft. Kevin >From: "Barbara LaBrash" <blabrash(at)rockisland.com> >To: >Subject: RV-8 for sale >Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:14:08 -0800 >X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 > >Kevin, > >I have an RV-8, all metal work finished (99%), needs engine, prop, >instruments, avionics, upholstery, paint. Was fast built kit and >finished by AP/IA mechanic. Perfect workmanship. Set up for 0-360 >180 HP. $25,000 U.S. If you know of anyone who is looking, this >one is a gem. > >Thanks, > >Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: RE: new birth
Date: Apr 02, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Karl Schilling [SMTP:k_schilling(at)iquest.net] Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 08:06 Subject: new birth I have been told by a friend of mine that people were asking for info on a RV-8 w/a0320. I have a recent completion,first flight 1-15 00. It's has a conical mount 0-320 w/a pacesetter 200 68/69 prop, 160 H.P. Empty weight 1019 lbs. Basic VFR insts.,w/garmin250XL,EIS engine insts.,Navaid wing leveler. Numbers so far w/about 45+hrs.are as follows. Static rpm 2150, 2500 rpm at 3000 msl 24" mp 175 mph. At 2600 rpm just under 190. Measured fuel burn at 2500 rpm 9.3 gal per hr. Engine is still quite tight and I think it will be a while longer for it to come in. If you would like to see what it looks like go to www.globeswift.com, scroll down to Karl's RV-8. I plan on being at Sun& Fun with the airplane, N711KN. Hope to see a bunch of you there. Still smiling MP reading is off some, I am still calabrating the inst. Karl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: RE: new birth
Karl, Congratulations! You must be very proud. I am almost there. Did an engine run to check for leaks. Painting is next. See you at SUN-N-FUN! Joe #80125 Karl Schilling wrote: > I have a recent completion,first flight 1-15 00. It's has a > conical mount 0-320 w/a pacesetter 200 68/69 prop, 160 H.P. > > I plan on being at Sun& Fun with the airplane, N711KN. > Hope to see a bunch of you there. Still smiling > MP reading is off some, I am still calabrating the inst. > Karl > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: NOTICE: Matronics Web Server Back Online...
Dear Email Listers, The Matronics Web and FTP server is finally back online! What a nightmare... But at least its finally done and in all honesty the system is running much better. Everything should be working now including the Search Engine, Archive Browser, various List-related pages, Matronics Product Pages, Online Ordering, Real Video server and Contribution pages. Again, I'm sorry it took so long to get things back - way longer than I ever intended. Have fun! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: VM1000 Panel Installation
From: Rv8don(at)aol.com Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 18:21:58 EDT Subject: RV-List: VM 1000 Panel Installation Anyone out there who's installed a VM 1000 in the panel got any suggestions on how to mark and cut an accurate opening in the panel? The drawing that Vision Micro provides isn't very good. I'm looking at Rev F. Too bad they don't have a punch to rent out! Regards, -Don RV8 NJ Don, Call Vision Microsystems. They have a metal template that they will send you. I taped it to my panel and used a router with a bearing edge bit to cut it out. Worked like a champ but you get chips everywhere. If you don't have a CNC machine, this is the second best way to do it. Joe (finishing wing root fairings) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: Router
Tom Barnes wrote: > Joe, I saw your post about using a router to cut the panel hole. I have a > couple Craftsman routers for woodworking. Are you using this type of tool? > Also, where did you get your bits and what size. > > This coule be a real time saver for me. > > Thanks in advance, > > Tom Barnes -6 finishing > Tom, As a matter of fact, I used a Craftsman router and a bit that trims the edges of formica (it has a bearing in it). I taped the template down to the panel (after practicing on scrap several times) and just "kissed" the edges of the template. The bit cuts the aluminum like a hot knife through butter. I bought the smallest bit that Sears had ( I'm sorry that I don't remember the name of this bit but I think it's a 1/4" radius and fits perfectly in the corners of the VM1000 template. The bit has a bearing on it) I taped the template down with 3M glossy packing tape. This made it easy to run the router over it. You will be pleasantly surprised on how the finished product turns out! Almost as good as a CNC. Practice on scraps first. Joe #80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: RV-8 Question
Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? Particularly anyone with a quick build 8. I just tried to install mine this weekend and it's 1/2 inch too small. I could pull it into place with C-clamps but it would put those AN3 bolts that hold it in place under a great deal of stress. Any help would be greatly appreciated. - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse N89JA (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Question
Our WD-814 was also 1/2 to small... I use a hydraulic press and expanded weldment 2 inches from normal... however it when it sprung back I still had a 1/4 inch gap... I wasn't comfortable expanding more so I gave up... I installed weldment with 1/4 gap by first pulling one side then bolting it down then stretching the other side and clamping in place for drilling... Larry N248PL QB-RV8 916-332-0704 Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to > their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? Particularly > anyone with a quick build 8. I just tried to install mine this weekend and it's > 1/2 inch too small. I could pull it into place with C-clamps but it would put > those AN3 bolts that hold it in place under a great deal of stress. > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > - Jim Andrews > RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse > N89JA (reserved) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Question
Jim-- I had talks with others on the list, as well as with Ken Krueger at Van's about this same problem. My weldment was about 1/2" too narrow for my fuse, and I was instructed by all to "just bend it." Ken actually told me to sit on the floor, put my foot on one side, and pull until it fits! As ridiculous as it sounds, it worked. I guess I'm a real wimp, 'cause I had to repeat it several times. Eventually, it fit OK. It's not the big deal that I was assuming it would be. --Don McNamara N8RV Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to > their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Question
Don... How far did you spread weldment without using a press??? Did you heat the metal first??? Larry Don McNamara wrote: > > Jim-- > > I had talks with others on the list, as well as with Ken Krueger at Van's about this > same problem. My weldment was about 1/2" too narrow for my fuse, and I was > instructed by all to "just bend it." Ken actually told me to sit on the floor, put > my foot on one side, and pull until it fits! As ridiculous as it sounds, it > worked. I guess I'm a real wimp, 'cause I had to repeat it several times. > Eventually, it fit OK. It's not the big deal that I was assuming it would be. > > --Don McNamara > N8RV > > Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > > > > Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to > > their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Question
Well, I can't tell you in psi...I did just what I was told to do--sat on the floor (and got aluminum shavings in my butt!), put on some gloves and pulled as hard as I could. Stopped, measured the space between the sides (I knew what the measurement was before I started and what my target measurement was), and found that it moved about half as much as I needed. Sat down again, (more aluminum shavings) grunted and pulled again, then measured. Sure enough, it had moved a wee bit more. The third attempt moved it as much as I needed. I found that making it wider only made it fit worse--it changed the other angles involved in the weldment, and how it fit against the longerons. I hate to think how much damage I might have done to the weldment or myself if I had tried to heat it and then bend it! As for a press... Hope that helps, Larry. --Don N8RV Larry -xlax- Lovisone wrote: > > Don... > How far did you spread weldment without using a press??? > Did you heat the metal first??? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Site update
Date: Apr 16, 2000
I've just completed a fairly major update to my web site. For those interested it can be seen at www.pacifier.com/~randyl. There are new sections complete with pics on Fuselage, Wiring, Interior, and Wiring in addition to everything that was there before. All previous content has been re-organized, hopefully you'll find it logically laid out and intuitive to navigate. Most of all I hope you find it helpful, especially the newer folks in the earlier stages of construction. Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, finishing winscreen glassing, starting baffling/plenum www.pacifer.com/~randyl www.RV8ing.com coming soon! Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 fuse jig in Ottawa, Canada
Several friends helped me pull my RV-8 fuselage out of the jig after work today, so I need to get rid of my jig. It is a straight, solid jig, and it is free to a good home. I've got it sitting outside under a tarp right now, so it probably won't stay straight too long. I'll be on the road for much of the next several weeks, and may not be getting e-mail at this account. I will be getting my work e-mail though, so you can reach me at hortonk(at)tc.gc.ca My wife will be home most evenings, and on the weekend, so you can still pick up the jig in my absence. Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: RV-8 Baggage Door
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 baggage door Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:03:39 -0700 Hey Jim... You bring up a timely topic. I'm at that stage also, quite happy w/ my results but of the 15 or so -8's Ive' seen this is one very noticeable metal working feat. like the book says, drill the door from the inside and hope the curve matches. Mine does if you push down hard when you activate the lock, but I'm waiting till the engine is hung until I drill the UHMA blocks to the bulkheads. Some builders add shims to the bulkheads to account for the irregularly, others add a fill material to match a joint. Most I've seen have a mismatch at the rear curve, not as bad as the front mismatch which would question the lift up possibility. I'd love to hear what the experts say, cause there's many of us coming that way. Regards Doug Gardner -8A Doug and RV-8 ers, I used a different technique that works really well. I did not even crawl inside to back drill! First, procure some 3M two part epoxy (2216). Drill and clecoe your baggage door parts and tweak the baggage door from the outside while it is just clecoed (no rivets yet).You may have to take it off and on about ten times until you get it to were you want it. A straight vixen file is excellent to match up the edges with the cutout in the fuselage. I used a "slip roll" for the bottom edge to get a nice curl but in lieu of that you could probably do a real nice job with a edge rolling tool (Cleaveland tools sells a nice one that is made from a vice grips). After everything is drilled, debarred and dimpled, install the door with clecoes and check your fit once again (btw, don't install the inner door cover, yet!) If your happy, remove the top door skin and mix a small batch of epoxy. Epoxy the door to the door ribs and hold it with clecoes ONLY! After a day of curing, remove the clecoes (they remove easily) and lightly clean the holes with a hand held deburr tool. Rivet the top and bottom doors on the ribs and install on to the fuselage. Your done. The neat thing about the epoxy is that it holds the door skin to the ribs without shifting. You get a real nice fit that way. Joe Czachorowski #80125 (almost finished) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Baggage Door
Greets... Our baggage door fits good without gaps but I want it to fit better... To get to this level of good fit I did this... 1 Rolled outer and inner door skins to match rib shape... 2 I articulated door rods so they poke the plastic bearing is a straight line... 3 I machined bearing blocks out of slippery Delrin... note... I built door completely from the outside without drilling from the inside... To go to the next level of fit... I might drill holes in ribs to relieve pressure and have door conform better... I can send pic of door rods to anyone interested... Larry The Busy Little Shop N248PL Joe Czachorowski wrote: > > From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 baggage door > Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:03:39 -0700 > > Hey Jim... You bring up a timely topic. I'm at that stage also, quite > happy > w/ my results but of the 15 or so -8's Ive' seen this is one very > noticeable > metal working feat. like the book says, drill the door from the inside > and > hope the curve matches. Mine does if you push down hard when you activate > > the lock, but I'm waiting till the engine is hung until I drill the UHMA > blocks to the bulkheads. Some builders add shims to the bulkheads to > account > for the irregularly, others add a fill material to match a joint. Most > I've > seen have a mismatch at the rear curve, not as bad as the front mismatch > which would question the lift up possibility. > I'd love to hear what the experts say, cause there's many of us coming > that > way. > > Regards > Doug Gardner -8A > > Doug and RV-8 ers, > > I used a different technique that works > really well. I did not even crawl inside to back drill! First, procure > some 3M two part epoxy (2216). Drill and clecoe your baggage door parts > and tweak the baggage door from the outside while it is just clecoed (no > rivets yet).You may have to take it off and on about ten times until you > get it to were you want it. A straight vixen file is excellent to match > up the edges with the cutout in the fuselage. I used a "slip roll" for > the bottom edge to get a nice curl but in lieu of that you could probably > do a real nice job with a edge rolling tool (Cleaveland tools sells a > nice one that is made from a vice grips). > > After everything is drilled, debarred and dimpled, install the > door with clecoes and check your fit once again (btw, don't install the > inner door cover, yet!) If your happy, remove the top door skin and mix > a small batch of epoxy. Epoxy the door to the door ribs and hold it with > clecoes ONLY! After a day of curing, remove the clecoes (they remove > easily) and lightly clean the holes with a hand held deburr tool. Rivet > the top and bottom doors on the ribs and install on to the fuselage. > Your done. The neat thing about the epoxy is that it holds the door skin > to the ribs without shifting. You get a real nice fit that way. > > Joe Czachorowski > #80125 (almost finished) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard" <bigfoot(at)saber.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Baggage Door
Date: Apr 29, 2000
Disposition-Notification-To: "Richard" Larry Very interesting procedure on fitting the baggage door. I have use of a roller and was going to roll the inner and outer skins to match the curve of the ribs too. I would like very much to see the photographs you have fitting the baggage door. Dick Johnson Willits, Ca RV8A putting the pieces together ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 30, 2000
Subject: PLEASE READ: Network Problems To Matronics...
Dear Listers, My ISP is upgrading their network today 4/30 and tomorrow 5/1. I noticed that Nameservice (DNS) went down last night around 3am which causes all sorts of problems. If your message post was rejected between about 3am 4/30 and 1pm 4/30, please repost as it was rejected do to the DNS being down. I've redirected my systems to a different DNS server in the mean time and things seem to be working right now. In any case, be aware that there may be continuing issues over the next couple of days both posting email messages and accessing the web server. My ISP *promises* that things are going to be so much better after the upgrade! We'll see... ;-) Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Subject: engine questions
Date: Apr 30, 2000
Hi all, I've got a couple engine questions if you don't mind. These refer to a new O-360-A1A purchased through Van's. - The engine was test run at the factory, and came with long term storage. The engine included a new oil filter in the box. Am I supposed to install the new filter before I run the engine, or save it for the first oil change? The filter on the engine would only have an hour and ten minutes of running time, but I guess it might also be full of preserving oil. - Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop, I removed the prop governor adapter and oil line. Now I have to plug up the hole where the governor adapter was, and I've been unable to find a cover at any of the local FBO hangouts. As it turns out, I have a perfect aluminum plate to go over the hole, but it has about a 3/8 hole right in the middle. I also plan to use an air oil separator, and need a place to run the drain oil back to the engine. Would there be any problem with tapping the governor plate hole for 1/4" NPT, and installing a hose fitting for the return oil? I'm assuming there's just crankcase pressure under the plate. Is that right? Thanks for any advice. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (moving to the hanger next weekend) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: engine questions
Date: May 01, 2000
Rv8'rs: I went through these same issues too, same configuration. As for the filter I had to remove the old one just to get at the #$%@# oil cooler line fitting, so the new one went on. On the governer, Bengilis suggests fabrictating a 1/4" alum plate cover for it. I used a double layer of 1/8" plates because that's what I had available. Our local EAA tech consuler thought that ok. On the air-oil sep, I ran a drain line into the base of the plastic oil fill tube, which I driled and tapped for 1/4" NPT. Again our EAA tech consuler said that was fine, though another member who is an A&P would only comment that the FAA would not accept it. Greg Miller RV8 QB N89GM, finally ready for prop (24 mo. 2200 hrs) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russell Duffy Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 7:03 PM Subject: RV8-List: engine questions Hi all, I've got a couple engine questions if you don't mind. These refer to a new O-360-A1A purchased through Van's. - The engine was test run at the factory, and came with long term storage. The engine included a new oil filter in the box. Am I supposed to install the new filter before I run the engine, or save it for the first oil change? The filter on the engine would only have an hour and ten minutes of running time, but I guess it might also be full of preserving oil. - Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop, I removed the prop governor adapter and oil line. Now I have to plug up the hole where the governor adapter was, and I've been unable to find a cover at any of the local FBO hangouts. As it turns out, I have a perfect aluminum plate to go over the hole, but it has about a 3/8 hole right in the middle. I also plan to use an air oil separator, and need a place to run the drain oil back to the engine. Would there be any problem with tapping the governor plate hole for 1/4" NPT, and installing a hose fitting for the return oil? I'm assuming there's just crankcase pressure under the plate. Is that right? Thanks for any advice. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (moving to the hanger next weekend) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: engine questions
Date: May 01, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Greg Miller <gvm(at)srv.net> Date: Monday, May 01, 2000 9:47 PM Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: engine questions >--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Miller" > >Rv8'rs: > >On the air-oil sep, I ran a drain line into the base of the plastic oil fill >tube, which I driled and tapped for 1/4" NPT. Again our EAA tech consuler >said that was fine, though another member who is an A&P would only comment >that the FAA would not accept it. > >I used to do the same until someone convinced me to run it into a container of some sort and take a look at what collects there. My engine had a fair amount of blow-by at that time and was I ever surprised to see what I was collecting. It looked like a bunch of water with a little bit of oil in it. Not something I would want to recirculate in my engine. I'm sure a new engine would not have as much water, but we are trying to turn them into used engines, aren't we? >Ivan Haecker > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TTNell(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/03/00
I'm just getting started and came up with an idea i think will be helpful to other newbies. To get proper alignment of the HS-810 and HS-814 I used a clear plastic laminating sheet (contact paper would probably work also but is stretchier) and carefully laid out the edge dimensions (3.25") and vertical and horizontal centerlines. After quadruple checking my measurements I removed the paper backing and set the HS-810 and HS-814 onto the adhesive side. I transferred the whole setup to the HS-602s (already properly clamped to my work surface) and lined up the vert. and horiz. centerlines. After multiple checks I taped the assembly in place and proceeded to drill the appropriate holes. This process worked extremely well and I am well pleased with the results. Tim Nell RV-8 19.5 whole hours (about 1%) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2000
From: Peter Winter <p.s.winter@net-tech.com.au>
Subject: Corrossion on everything.
> Hi Rvators, I am wondering if anybody else has had the problem with corrosion along the edges of all their skins and ribs etc.....It usually is in areas of about 6 inches long and about half an inch long. Vans has already replaced my spar due to corrosion.......just wondering... Peter. wings almost finished. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Site update, new domain
Date: May 12, 2000
Gang, Just wanted to let you know that I've updated my site by adding a couple of pages and updating a few others. The FWF page is new, you might find details of my fuel system interesting also. There have also been additions to the Plenum/Cowl page and the Battery page for those of you interested. Lastly, I have a new domain and url... www.rv-8.com. Very imaginative, huh? If you would like to visit the site again you might want to remember to change your Favorites or Bookmarks. Oh, my e-mail address has changed too to randy@rv-8.com. Blue skies, Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, N558RL, plenum/baffling, soon to mount prop www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: F-804 Spacer Accuracy
> >I'm ready to fabricate the spacer for my F-804 spar carrythrough >bulkhead prior to installing it in the jig and I'm wondering what would >constitute acceptable accuracy for thickness. My spar root ends are >both 1 15/32" thick, but I don't have any means of cutting wood (or >anything else) to the nearest 1/32". If I can come up with a 1.5" thick >spacer, would the 'extra' 1/32" be a problem when I install my wings? >What are other -8 builders doing in this area? > >-- >Regards, >Ken Balch Ken, When I did this part, I called out to Van's and talk to Ken Krueger. He said between 2 to 3 thousanths would be OK. He said the best would be zero, but than it would be difficult to attach the spar. I had some square tubing milled on a milling machine to exactly what I wanted. When you use steel, you don't have to worry about changing the distance when you tighten the bolts. BTW, my wings slipped right in! Joe #80125 (wings painted) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard" <bigfoot(at)saber.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/27/00
Date: May 28, 2000
Where are all the RV8 builders? Dick Johnson RV8A About to install the engine ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/27/00
> >Where are all the RV8 builders? > >Dick Johnson RV8A >About to install the engine > Dick, It seems that almost no one is using the various RV-3/4/6/8 specific lists. There are quite a few RV-8/8A builders on the regular RV list, so maybe you should subscribe to it instead. Any posts to the other RV-X lists get sent to the RV-List automatically, so you will still see any posts that get sent to the RV-8 list. There are also a lot of RV-8/8A builders on another list set up by Moe Colontonio. You can subscribe at: http://www.onelist.com/community/rv8list Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: G1159MEK(at)aol.com
Date: May 29, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/28/00
What do you mean exactly? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
\"Michael Fry\"" , "Dennis Souder" , "Ben Ransom" , "Bruce Daughtry" , "Bobby Hargrave"
Subject: N174KT Flies!!!
Date: Jun 02, 2000
Hello all, After 2.5 years and 1600+ hours of hard work, my RV-8 made it's first flight this morning at 9:00 am. The flight was only about 30 minutes, but it was PERFECT! The only issue was cylinder head temp during climb to 4500 ft, but that came down when I increased climb speed from 100kts to 120kts (after the RMI warned me- gotta love digital instruments). ATC called me up and asked what kind of plane it was, and commented that it sure was climbing well. I was like a proud papa when I told him it was an RV-8 :-) I wish I had more number for you, but that will have to come later. The first flight was purely a survival exercise. Since my airport is below the triple-lobed class C airspace mess around the Pensacola FL area, I called ATC on the phone 30 minutes before the flight to arrange a clearance into their area. They were very helpful, and gave me a squawk code and clearance for unrestricted VFR climb to 4500 ft. That allowed me to concentrate on getting the plane up and climbing safely, without worrying about having to contact them before penetrating their airspace at 1400 ft. When I contacted approach at 2200 ft, I was delighted to hear that my transponder, encoder, and radio were all working well. During the flight, I never exceeded 140 kts, and mainly just worked my way up to turns of about 30 degree bank at 2200 RPM. Next, I slowed the plane to 85kts and made some gentle turns, followed by half flaps and some turns. Finally, I slowed the plane to 60kts indicated and half flaps, with no sign of stall. Since I saw 70 kts as I left the runway, and planned to do the first approach at 80 kts, I decided that 60 was low enough to test for the first flight. The landing was pretty good for a first attempt, and only took about 800 ft. Pity this was the last 800 ft of a 3800 ft runway :-) I guess 80 kts is a little fast for being solo with half fuel and half flaps. Many thanks to all that offered advice over the years, especially Brian Denk who gave me a fine briefing by phone last night (sorry to leave you in suspense all day Brian). Also thanks to John Henley for an excellent RV-6 checkout that he gave me Tuesday and Wednesday, and to Bob Hargrave- my local RV-8 building buddy (his plane will likely be flying this Sunday). Both John and Bob are former military instructors, and I have no doubt that their briefings would have saved my life if anything had gone wrong. Get to know your local builders, there's a lot of talent out there. Finally, a special thanks to my wonderful wife Coral who endured countless hours of neglect so the RV-8 could be finished now. Hopefully, the payoff for her will be all the traveling we can do in our own RV-8. For the record, Empty weight is 1062 lbs without paint, wheel pants, or leg fairings. I have a new Lycoming O-360 with a Sensenich 85" pitch aluminum prop, full electric gyro panel, day/night VFR plus Garmin 195 GPS. Russell (I'm a happy guy) Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (Flying!!!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard" <bigfoot(at)saber.net>
Subject: Re: N174KT Flies!!!
Date: Jun 01, 2000
Congratulations Russell I will have my RV8A flying this Fall if all goes well. I am glad to hear that it all went without a hitch for your first flight. What was your flying experience prior to The RV6 and how much RV6 time did you get? If Van ever sends me the wheels, I'll hang the engine. Airframe is just about complete. Dick Johnson, Willits, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2000
From: Wil Ramsey <wilr(at)eoni.com>
Subject: Re: N174KT Flies!!!
Russell Congradulations can almost hear the excitement in your writing. Wil Ramsey ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: N174KT Flies!!!
Russell, Congratulations! The best point that you made (besides flying an airplane that you built with your own hands) was using the many resources that are available (especially from this list,i.e. Brian Denk). What better way of knowing what to expect than to call someone who has been there and has the tee shirt. I think Brian will be getting many more calls because of your post. I know I will! Joe #80125 (wings painted, fuselage next) Russell Duffy wrote: > > Hello all, > > After 2.5 years and 1600+ hours of hard work, my RV-8 made it's first flight this morning at 9:00 > am. The flight was only about 30 minutes, but it was PERFECT! > > Many thanks to all that offered advice over the years, especially Brian Denk who gave me a fine > briefing by phone last night (sorry to leave you in suspense all day Brian). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Jun 02, 2000
Subject: Re: N174KT Flies!!!
Congratulations Russell! There must be about 300 of us RV-8... builders out there that are just about to join you. Glad to see all that hard work actually pays off. Brian has been a big help to me as well. Van's isn't paying him enough ;-) Please tell us more as you get more data. - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ ( finish ) Austin, Texas N89JA ( reserved ) "Russell Duffy" on 06/02/2000 12:04:13 AM Please respond to rv8-list(at)matronics.com , "Dennis Souder" , "Ben Ransom" , "Bruce Daughtry" , "Bobby Hargrave" Subject: RV8-List: N174KT Flies!!! Hello all, After 2.5 years and 1600+ hours of hard work, my RV-8 made it's first flight this morning at 9:00 am. The flight was only about 30 minutes, but it was PERFECT! The only issue was cylinder head temp during climb to 4500 ft, but that came down when I increased climb speed from 100kts to 120kts (after the RMI warned me- gotta love digital instruments). ATC called me up and asked what kind of plane it was, and commented that it sure was climbing well. I was like a proud papa when I told him it was an RV-8 :-) I wish I had more number for you, but that will have to come later. The first flight was purely a survival exercise. Since my airport is below the triple-lobed class C airspace mess around the Pensacola FL area, I called ATC on the phone 30 minutes before the flight to arrange a clearance into their area. They were very helpful, and gave me a squawk code and clearance for unrestricted VFR climb to 4500 ft. That allowed me to concentrate on getting the plane up and climbing safely, without worrying about having to contact them before penetrating their airspace at 1400 ft. When I contacted approach at 2200 ft, I was delighted to hear that my transponder, encoder, and radio were all working well. During the flight, I never exceeded 140 kts, and mainly just worked my way up to turns of about 30 degree bank at 2200 RPM. Next, I slowed the plane to 85kts and made some gentle turns, followed by half flaps and some turns. Finally, I slowed the plane to 60kts indicated and half flaps, with no sign of stall. Since I saw 70 kts as I left the runway, and planned to do the first approach at 80 kts, I decided that 60 was low enough to test for the first flight. The landing was pretty good for a first attempt, and only took about 800 ft. Pity this was the last 800 ft of a 3800 ft runway :-) I guess 80 kts is a little fast for being solo with half fuel and half flaps. Many thanks to all that offered advice over the years, especially Brian Denk who gave me a fine briefing by phone last night (sorry to leave you in suspense all day Brian). Also thanks to John Henley for an excellent RV-6 checkout that he gave me Tuesday and Wednesday, and to Bob Hargrave- my local RV-8 building buddy (his plane will likely be flying this Sunday). Both John and Bob are former military instructors, and I have no doubt that their briefings would have saved my life if anything had gone wrong. Get to know your local builders, there's a lot of talent out there. Finally, a special thanks to my wonderful wife Coral who endured countless hours of neglect so the RV-8 could be finished now. Hopefully, the payoff for her will be all the traveling we can do in our own RV-8. For the record, Empty weight is 1062 lbs without paint, wheel pants, or leg fairings. I have a new Lycoming O-360 with a Sensenich 85" pitch aluminum prop, full electric gyro panel, day/night VFR plus Garmin 195 GPS. Russell (I'm a happy guy) Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (Flying!!!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Subject: Thanks to all
Date: Jun 03, 2000
Thanks for all the congratulatory messages, on and off list, regarding my first flight. The second flight yesterday when just as well as the first, so I think I'm on my way to a successful test flight period. If you're not flying yet, keep the faith and your day will come. You won't be disappointed! Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (flying 1.5 hrs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Subject: early test flight questions
Date: Jun 03, 2000
Hi all, Two issues have come up with my initial test flight program, and I couldn't find exact answers in a brief archive search. First, I have a hard time keeping the rear CHT's below the 260C/500F limit during climb (90 degree Florida day). The only way I can do it is to climb at 120kts which isn't so bad for now. I have an RMI and can read all 4 cylinders, so I know that the front two cylinders are consistently 20C/68F cooler than the rear. This is a brand new O-360, and I understand that the CHT's will drop some after break-in is complete. My primary question is about the "optional" air deflectors that can be placed in front of the #1 and #2 cylinders. It seems obvious that these will raise the temps on the front two cylinders, but will it actually lower the temps on the back two? The second issue is more of a question than a problem. Is there a direct calculation for HP that can be made for any particular condition? I'm trying to keep the power between 65 and 75 % for break-in purposes, but can't quite figure out how. The Lycoming chart is a bit confusing, and seems to require more data than I've collected. Here is some data from yesterday's flight as an example: RV-8 (no wheel pants), O-360 engine, 85" pitch Sensenich prop. In cruise, 2450 rpm, 4500 ft, 21.3 MAP, 11 gph rich, 9.1 gph lean, 151 kts GPS averaged groundspeed, no OAT probe but 90F on the ground. How would you calculate HP from this? When I try to use the chart, it seems like this is only around 60% power, but the speed seems too high for 60% and no wheel fairings. I saw a formula in the archives that said you could multiply gph by 11.5 to get HP, but would you use full rich, or lean fuel flow. Geez, this shouldn't be so hard. Thanks, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT () ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: early test flight questions
> >Hi all, > >Two issues have come up with my initial test flight program, and I >couldn't find exact answers in a >brief archive search. > >The second issue is more of a question than a problem. Is there a >direct calculation for HP that >can be made for any particular condition? I'm trying to keep the >power between 65 and 75 % for >break-in purposes, but can't quite figure out how. The Lycoming >chart is a bit confusing, and seems >to require more data than I've collected. Here is some data from >yesterday's flight as an example: >RV-8 (no wheel pants), O-360 engine, 85" pitch Sensenich prop. In >cruise, 2450 rpm, 4500 ft, 21.3 >MAP, 11 gph rich, 9.1 gph lean, 151 kts GPS averaged groundspeed, no >OAT probe but 90F on the >ground. How would you calculate HP from this? When I try to use >the chart, it seems like this is >only around 60% power, but the speed seems too high for 60% and no >wheel fairings. I saw a formula >in the archives that said you could multiply gph by 11.5 to get HP, >but would you use full rich, or >lean fuel flow. Geez, this shouldn't be so hard. > >Thanks, > >Russell Duffy Russell, I can't help on your first issue, but maybe I can do something on the second. Larry Pardue put together a power chart that is easier to use than the Lycoming graphs. See: http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Power.htm Randall Henderson did something similar. See: http://www.edt.com/homewing/o360_power.html I made an Excel spreadsheet. See: http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/o360apwr.zip These links are all available in the Engine and Prop section of my RV Links page: http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html My spreadsheet says that you would have been making about 70% power, at standard temperature. You would have been making about 68% power if the temperature was 20 deg F above standard. Hope this helps, Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Subject: Re: early test flight questions
Date: Jun 03, 2000
Forget that Denk guy, you're my new best friend now Kevin :-) Really, thanks to all you guys that put this stuff together, this is GREAT, just what I needed. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (hopefully attending another RV-8 first flight tomorrow) > I can't help on your first issue, but maybe I can do something on the second. > > Larry Pardue put together a power chart that is easier to use than > the Lycoming graphs. See: > > http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/Power.htm > > Randall Henderson did something similar. See: > > http://www.edt.com/homewing/o360_power.html > > I made an Excel spreadsheet. See: > > http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/o360apwr.zip > > These links are all available in the Engine and Prop section of my RV > Links page: > > http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html > > My spreadsheet says that you would have been making about 70% power, > at standard temperature. You would have been making about 68% power > if the temperature was 20 deg F above standard. > > Hope this helps, > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) > Ottawa, Canada > http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: G1159MEK(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 06/03/00
Congrats!!! I have heard that people are putting a grate per say to add to the amount of air flowing though the cowl on io-360 equipped 8's.. I wonder if that would help. After doing that you might have to play with the front cylinders to keep the from getting too cool. You put the louvered piece where cowl flaps normally would go. I have seen it on other 8's but I don't remember where. My 2 cents. Mike #81292 Tail kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 firewall gotcha
RV-8ers, I fabricated my battery tray this weekend, and learned something about the firewall that I'll pass on. The battery tray mounts to the front side of the firewall (unless you've got a 200 hp IO-360 and CS prop). It mounts with match holes in those angles on the back side of the firewall. If you put rivets in all those holes, you'll have to drill four of them out when it comes time to mount the battery tray. No big deal, but it would be less work just to leave those rivets out when you assemble the firewall. You'll also want to not dimple/countersink those four holes. See DWG 31 for details. Does the current revision of DWG 21 mention leaving those four holes open? Mine certainly doesn't. If some can confirm (e-mail me directly) that the current DWG 21 still doesn't mention the battery tray, I'll send a note to Van's so they can add a note to the drawing. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2000
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
Subject: GPS antennas
I sell a great GPS antenna that is amplified and is black in color for mounting on the glare shield. It could be mounted outside in the wind stream or concelled elsewhere. The Lowe antenna is also a great antenna, I know because I have one, but note the location of the cable coming out of the antenna. The cable is also not removeable from the antenna. Look on my website at the address of : http://www.gretzaero.com You will see my antenna there along with the other products I sell. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero 303-770-3811 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
Date: Jun 06, 2000
Hi guys, A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop, moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ. I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible' and noticed their starter set. Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order another tool that wasn't included in the original set. Thanks for any help! - Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
Date: Jun 06, 2000
Try Cleveland Tool in the yellow pages. -----Original Message----- From: Bill Ludwig [SMTP:ludwig(at)azstarnet.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 08:59 Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
Date: Jun 06, 2000
Now that I'm just a few weeks from launch of my RV8 QB, it's clear that the two most frustrating and time consuming aspects of building, which could have been avoided, were not having tools when I needed them, nor the parts. Note that in SE Idaho, nothing is available locally.. The $600 Avery RV kit is just a starter. I have a receipt book for tool purchases an inch thick totalling about $2700, and my same colection of Vans invoices is about 2" thick. Seemed like every two weeks I'd have to stop building, or at best switch to some other build task while I waited for either tools or parts. That included waiting 6 mo. for the QB kit... Were I to do it all over I would first make all design decisions (like where the oil cooler goes, instrument panel layout, instuments, firewall layout (!), interior, antennas, cabin heat ducting, control location, etc.), then order all kits and subkits from Vans at once, all instruments, wiring, antenna, .... Seemed like I ended up pretty much buying at least one at everything in Vans catalog. Of course the real trick is coming up with the list. I've been meaning to write up a final tool list and perhaps a list of unforseen parts/tasks etc. for out local chapter, but like all other tasks it takes time away from building. Email if interested. --Greg Miller RV8 N89GM, paint prep, paint, and windshield fairing remains..24 mo. 2300 hrs. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Ludwig Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:59 AM Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... Hi guys, A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop, moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ. I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible' and noticed their starter set. Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order another tool that wasn't included in the original set. Thanks for any help! - Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2000
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
list-ez , RV List
Subject: Gretz Aero Cyber Problems
Greetings, I found out last night and checked out the problem today and I am not receiving any order sent to Gretz Aero by way of my website. I am not sure of the problem fix as yet. If you placed an order with me lately (last few weeks) and have not heard from me, please e-mail me right away and describe what you want to order. Or, you may call me in the evenings or on the weekends and place the order again. I also have a recorder on the phone line. My website address is http://www.gretzaero.com but, at this time do not place orders by way of the website. I will post a notice when it is fixed. Please call me or send me an e-mail in the meantime. Sorry for the inconvience. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero 303-770-3811 evenings and weekends, or leave a message on the recorder warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2000
From: Wil Ramsey <wilr(at)eoni.com>
Subject: Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
Bill The Avery kit that has complete set is good, not quite complete, but a very good start. I suggest getting both the 2x & 3x rivet guns if you can afford. 2x is the ticket for small skin rivets, very controllable and with the swivel driver head (an extra, results are great.) 3x for heaver size 4 rivets. Start with low pressures and use scrap to practice. Videos of building are a great help. Don't cover everything, but do get you going in the right direction. If you don't have experience (like me, and are building alone) they are recommended. I don't know if you are acquainted with unistrut conduit supports, they make an excellent framing jig. Also, the hinge brackets available from Avery to do the horizontal stabilizer are a good investment, don't know what else you would use. Enjoy, it is a great kit and makes you feel like you know what you are doing. Wil Ramsey working on wings, QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
Date: Jun 07, 2000
Bill . . . I, too, am building an 8 ("A" version) quick build. If you can handle an Excel spreadsheet I'll send this separately which is a very complete list of tools that I worked off of in setting up my shop. It may be overkill, but it certainly has provided me with just about everything I've needed. Contact me off line if you'd like it . . . rickjory(at)msn.com Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO -----Original Message----- From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:03 AM Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... > >Hi guys, > >A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll >have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop, >moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it >full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ. > >I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but >no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set >of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on >his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible' >and noticed their starter set. > >Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and >one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order >another tool that wasn't included in the original set. > >Thanks for any help! > >- Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
Date: Jun 07, 2000
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" Bill . . . I, too, am building an 8 ("A" version) quick build. If you can handle an Excel spreadsheet I'll send this separately which is a very complete list of tools that I worked off of in setting up my shop. It may be overkill, but it certainly has provided me with just about everything I've needed. Contact me off line if you'd like it . . . rickjory(at)msn.com Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO -----Original Message----- From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:03 AM Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... > >Hi guys, > >A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll >have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop, >moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it >full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ. > >I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but >no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set >of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on >his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible' >and noticed their starter set. > >Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and >one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order >another tool that wasn't included in the original set. > >Thanks for any help! > >- Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobby Hargrave <bobby.hargrave(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
"RV Builders List (E-mail)" , "Brian Denk (E-mail)" , "John Henley (E-mail)" , "Lou Smith (E-mail)" "Rusty Duffy (E-mail)"
Subject: RV8 Control Problems
Date: Jun 08, 2000
Gentleman and Ladies: 1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service. You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight. Bobby Hargrave 80706 N426NC Cell. 901.834.1281 home 850.473.9105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
\"Brian Denk (E-mail)\"" , "John Henley (E-mail)" , "Ed Storo (E-mail)"
Subject: Re: RV8 Control Problems
Hiya Bobby... Thanks for the info... I plan on subsisting plain nuts with self locking nuts... Every completed and flying RV8 pushes me on... I've been busy redesigning and machining custom throttles to replace the stock lawn mover looking controls... http://www.rvators.com/larry/pic1/TQuadRed.JPG Larry xlax Lovisone USAF ret. The Busy Little Machine Shop RV8 weak wing theorist http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm Bobby Hargrave wrote: > > Gentleman and Ladies: > > 1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the > aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the > forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed > off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control > horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all > flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of > aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all > panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for > flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service. > You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight. > > Bobby Hargrave > 80706 N426NC > > Cell. 901.834.1281 > home 850.473.9105 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: RE: Weak wing theory
Date: Jun 08, 2000
Just looked at Larry's weak wing theory web page, I offer one more RV8 wing detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was rather shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill a big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to the termination of the wing spar flange bars. I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too, if anyone has designed something please advise. Greg Miller RV8 N89GM: fill and sand, fill and sand... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry -xlax- Lovisone Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 9:39 AM Ed Storo (E-mail) Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Control Problems Hiya Bobby... Thanks for the info... I plan on subsisting plain nuts with self locking nuts... Every completed and flying RV8 pushes me on... I've been busy redesigning and machining custom throttles to replace the stock lawn mover looking controls... http://www.rvators.com/larry/pic1/TQuadRed.JPG Larry xlax Lovisone USAF ret. The Busy Little Machine Shop RV8 weak wing theorist http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2000
"RV"@matronics.com
From: Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems
I have found after building several RVs, 6s and a 4 that the jam nuts will loosen because of the over rotation of the hemie bearing that they are to lock. To have the given up and down degrees of the controls they have to rotate more than a regular hookup with a bolt and possibly washers will allow. Van sells a special washer that is 3/16" or bolts size with a outside diameter that is small enough for the bearing to freely rotate over it and will correct your problem. If you donot use the washers you will always loosen the jam nut or twist the control tube if you lock everything tight. I am not in my shop withmaterial information to give you the numbers of the washers, but if you want more information just return mail. I don't know if Van sends them in the kit and we don't find them, but I have always orders a dozen or so for each airplane that I have put together. This is a necessary item to check on all of the RV series planes. Ralph Koger RV-6A N16RK > >1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the >aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the >forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed >off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control >horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all >flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of >aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all >panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for >flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service. >You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight. > >Bobby Hargrave >80706 N426NC > >Cell. 901.834.1281 >home 850.473.9105 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory (Van's reply)...
Date: Jun 08, 2000
I sent Van's the Weak Wing Theory - their reply follows: -----Original Message----- From: Scott Risan <support(at)vansaircraft.com> Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 3:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory... the one wing that has failed did not fail at this location. an analysis was done on this area both before the kit was released and after the accident....determined that it was not a structural problem. if you had seen the loading of these wings during testing, you would not be concerned about pulling a wing off. the simple fact is ....the manuvering speed of the -8 is about 140mph, the cruise speeds are upwards of 180mph...if the airplane isn't flown with respect, it can be broken. if you fly the plane within the designed parameters...+6, -3 G's, you will not have a problem. scott at van's From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Subject: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory... > I'm about ready to order the RV-8, and got the following from the RV List. > Please comment on this post, and the Weak Wing Website, and give me a warm > feeling that the wing won't snap on me! > > Thanks, > > Bill Ludwig, Tucson > ---------------------------------------------- > > "Just looked at Larry's weak wing theory web page, I offer one more RV8 wing > detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was rather > shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures > occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the > wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross > sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must > significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill a > big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural > member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to > the termination of the wing spar flange bars. > > "I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no > problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too, if > anyone has designed something please advise. > > ~ Greg Miller ~ > > RV-8 Weak Wing Website: http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory (Van's reply)...
Date: Jun 08, 2000
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig" I sent Van's the Weak Wing Theory - their reply follows: -----Original Message----- From: Scott Risan <support(at)vansaircraft.com> Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 3:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory... the one wing that has failed did not fail at this location. an analysis was done on this area both before the kit was released and after the accident....determined that it was not a structural problem. if you had seen the loading of these wings during testing, you would not be concerned about pulling a wing off. the simple fact is ....the manuvering speed of the -8 is about 140mph, the cruise speeds are upwards of 180mph...if the airplane isn't flown with respect, it can be broken. if you fly the plane within the designed parameters...+6, -3 G's, you will not have a problem. scott at van's From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Subject: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory... > I'm about ready to order the RV-8, and got the following from the RV List. > Please comment on this post, and the Weak Wing Website, and give me a warm > feeling that the wing won't snap on me! > > Thanks, > > Bill Ludwig, Tucson > ---------------------------------------------- > > "Just looked at Larry's weak wing theory web page, I offer one more RV8 wing > detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was rather > shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures > occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the > wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross > sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must > significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill a > big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural > member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to > the termination of the wing spar flange bars. > > "I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no > problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too, if > anyone has designed something please advise. > > ~ Greg Miller ~ > > RV-8 Weak Wing Website: http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory (Van's reply)...
> > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Scott Risan <support(at)vansaircraft.com> > To: Bill Ludwig > Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 3:49 PM > Subject: Re: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory... > > the one wing that has failed did not fail at this location. Question Mr. Scott... Please state to all the RV8 builders the exact station at which wing did fail??? > > an analysis was done on this area both before the kit was released > and after the accident....determined that it was not a structural > problem. Mr. Scott... Please... may interested RV8 builders read this analysis??? > > > if you had seen the loading of these wings during testing, you woul not be > concerned about pulling a wing off. Please Mr. Scott... State to all interested RV8 builders the total weight in pounds and at what wing station location loads were applied... > > > the simple fact is ....the manuvering speed of the -8 is about > 140mph, the cruise speeds are upwards of 180mph...if the airplane isn't flown > with respect, it can be broken. Sir... Are you saying John Morgan flew N58RV that day without "respect"??? > > > if you fly the plane within the designed parameters...+6, -3 G's, > you will not have a problem. Mr. Scott... How can the average pilot maneuver within the design parameters when a experienced company pilot such as John Morgan with 10,000 hours total time... 1300 hours in RV's... maneuver that day believing he was well within the designed parameters of 6+... -3 G's??? Mr. Scott... can you name one training aircraft that has never experienced an in-flight failure??? Thank you... Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Subject: Baffle air deflectors?
Date: Jun 10, 2000
Hi all, I guess I'm going to have to install some sort of air deflectors on the baffles. The front cylinders are about 60 deg F cooler than the rear, and the rear cylinders are redlined at 500 deg F during climb unless I maintain 120 kts climb speed. Since I can't find any drawing of these deflectors in the prints (RV-8, note- I didn't say they weren't there, just that I can't find them) I'd like to see some pictures of what others have installed. If anyone can point me to photos online, or e-mail some to me, I'd be ever-so-grateful. The other thing I'd like to know, is whether the deflectors lowered the rear cylinder temps any. If the deflectors don't lower the rear cylinder temps, I won't install them until I find some way to get the overall CHT's down. No sense in redlining all 4 cylinders for the sake of being even. Thanks, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (flying 5hrs, installing wheel pants now) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: Looking for Herb Ross
Date: Jun 11, 2000
Anyone who knows how to get in touch with Herb Ross (used to live in Tucson - maybe still does), please send me the info. Thanks, - Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
RV List , list-glasair , list-lancair , list-rocket , list-rv8
Subject: Gretz Aero Products website up again
Greeting to the list, I was having some problems with my online order form, but I am glad to report it is back up and running. If you check out my website at the address of: http://www.gretzaero.com and you wish to place an online order it will now be working correctly. By the way, I have a new shippment of HEATED PITOT TUBES, and my MOUNTING BRACKET KITS ready for shippment as always. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BMEEDS(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Subject: (no subject)
Is anyone familiar with an O-360F1A6 (C-172RG) installed on an RV-8? Van's thought that it would probably work, but I might have to modify the cowl for the forward prop governor. Here's the description from the back of my construction manual: "Similar to O-360A series with new sump for nose wheel clearance. Rear HA-6 carburator has (1) sixth and (1) eighth order counterweights and has governor drive on left front of crankcase." Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, FB Meeds RV-8QB Tailfeathers finished ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Subject: HELP with RV-8 Boo-Boo (ASAP)
This is my first attempt at posting a message, I hope my protocol is correct. My project is a RV-8. Currently working on my HORAZONTAL STABILIZER. I think I just made my first BIG error. My concern is that I was too aggressive when trimming the ears off HS-814 (to clear the rib flange and skin). Sent a picture to Van's and from eyeballing it they though I should replace HS-814. Oh @#&#@#, was just ready to skin the darn thing. I think that when I mate the Horz Stab to the fuselage I won't have the edge clearance on the outside AN3,10-3 bolt of HS-814. To help me determine this, is there an "8" builder out there that can from his full size plans or actually measuring the width of the fuselage (to the outside of the F-887 Longerons) (DWG-27) at the bolt line through HS-814? This may help me determine if I have to chance destroying my Stab trying to drill out the 14 rivets on HS-814. The thought makes me shudder. If any HELPERS could email me direct or call me collect at pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com or 515-277-4173. Boy I feel like a dope, thanks in advance for any assistance. Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: HELP with RV-8 Boo-Boo (ASAP)
Date: Jun 17, 2000
> To help me determine this, is there an > "8" builder out there that can from his full size plans or actually measuring the width of the fuselage (to the outside of the > F-887 Longerons) (DWG-27) at the bolt line through HS-814? This may help me determine if I have to chance destroying > my Stab trying to drill out the 14 rivets on HS-814. The thought makes me shudder Jack, No need to feel bad, I don't think there is a builder on the list who hasn't committed a much worse faux paux. Don't worry, you will too! Regarding your HS-814 spacing, I just measured mine for you. You need 7 5/8 from bolt center to bolt center, and 8 3/8 for the width of the flange that rests on the rear fuselage deck. Caveat: these are the dimensions from MY plane, yours may vary slightly but I think these are good dimensions +/- 1/16". Take a deep breath, and be glad Van's replacement parts are very reasonably priced, I have certainly bought my share. Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, fwf www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A. W. Triff" <tekrep(at)wans.net>
Subject: HELP with RV-8 Boo-Boo (ASAP)
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Don't sweat it Jack, if the dim.s randy gave you look like they'll work, You'll be OK, if not, contact me off-line and maybe I can help- I have 2 spare FWD spars and some spare 814s. Don't ask why, but it has to do with making mistakes ;-). Wes Triff F-1 Rocket Atlanta > To help me determine this, is there an > "8" builder out there that can from his full size plans or actually measuring the width of the fuselage (to the outside of the > F-887 Longerons) (DWG-27) at the bolt line through HS-814? This may help me determine if I have to chance destroying > my Stab trying to drill out the 14 rivets on HS-814. The thought makes me shudder Jack, No need to feel bad, I don't think there is a builder on the list who hasn't committed a much worse faux paux. Don't worry, you will too! Regarding your HS-814 spacing, I just measured mine for you. You need 7 5/8 from bolt center to bolt center, and 8 3/8 for the width of the flange that rests on the rear fuselage deck. Caveat: these are the dimensions from MY plane, yours may vary slightly but I think these are good dimensions +/- 1/16". Take a deep breath, and be glad Van's replacement parts are very reasonably priced, I have certainly bought my share. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AV8TRQA(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00
Does anyone write to this page? If so, I am going to build an RV-8. I would like to know if anyone has successfully installed an 6 cylinder engine instead of the normal 4 cylinder. Jonathan av8trqa(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Subject: 6 Cyl in an RV-8
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Hi Jonathan, I haven't heard of anyone who's done it yet, but I may be wrong. However, I would strongly advise against it. You will have to reinforce the firewall, design and build your own engine mount and cowling, you will have cooling problems (the RV-8 cowling is already a tight fit), you will have CofG problems, you may have to reinforce the landing gear and other parts, you will give up some precious useful load, and you will have no support from Van's. On top of that, the increased weight and enlarged cowling will rob you of a lot of that extra speed the engine would otherwise provide. The RV-8 with a 200HP and CS Prop is already a real rocket, and it is a delightfully well balanced aircraft. If you are after more top speed, I would recommend you tweakup an IO-360 and pay close attention to the aerodynamics. You'll save a ton of time and money, and will end up with a much better airplane that is probably just as fast. If you want a 300 mph airplane, than the RV-8 is not the right choice. Sylvain Duford Bellevue, WA RV-8 Fuselage N-130RV Reserved ----- Original Message ----- From: <AV8TRQA(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 7:23 AM Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00 > > Does anyone write to this page? If so, I am going to build an RV-8. I would > like to know if anyone has successfully installed an 6 cylinder engine > instead of the normal 4 cylinder. > Jonathan > av8trqa(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
Subject: ram air
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Dear builders, I am building a RV8 in Germany. Presently my cowling and the baffles have to be installed. I am looking for a solution for my air filter box. As I can remember our club Mooney 201 a couple of years ago, it had a Ram Air system and an air filter box. I intended to install the same system in my RV8 but couldn't remember the proper installation or couldn't drawings or descriptions of it. The problem lies in the ram air. I saw a couple of aeroplanes in Oshkosh which had a clean tube just in front of the injection pump but no filter box. I would like to combine the filter box with an optional ram air system, similar to the Mooney. Questions are: 1. Does a T form of a ram air tube with a side inlet from a filter box influence the air stream characteristic of the inlet? 2. What other solution could work? 3. Which kind of air filter did you use? 4. Is one or even more parts from the system available from one of your shops? 5. What would be the part numbers of those items? 6. Is any kind of drawing available? I take any advice and help I can get. Stephan Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn C/S: D-EBRV (80303) Germany ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Jon, Most folks are on the straight RV list and not on the RV8 list. But to answer your question, there has been at least one guy who put an 0-540 in his -8. Somebody on the RV-list will know who it is. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: AV8TRQA(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00 >Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 10:23:57 EDT > > >Does anyone write to this page? If so, I am going to build an RV-8. I would >like to know if anyone has successfully installed an 6 cylinder engine >instead of the normal 4 cylinder. > Jonathan > av8trqa(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TTNell(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: 6 Cyl in an RV-8
Recently a RV-8 with an IO-540 showed up in one of the magazines(I think it was the RV-ator). Don't know who built it but Van's should be able to tell you. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00
Date: Jun 25, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Mike Robertson [SMTP:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 05:31 Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/22/00 It has been done by Joe underwood & Tom Williamson, Indianapolis, In. There is a picture of it in the first issue of the RVator this year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV877W(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 06/24/00
Hi johnathan Yes, someone was at Sun&Fun with a 6 cylinder. I'm not sure if it was a Lycoming or Franklin though. Jim RV8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle???
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand! What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8? It seems everyone has their throttle quadrant on the left and stick set up for the right hand. But why? I learned to fly in a Cessna 140, left hand on the yoke and right hand on the throttle. Was it because the Cubs, etc. had the doors on the right side? Will my test pilot / instructor be able to fly my 8 if I have a right hand throttle? Oh well, I still have plenty of time to ponder it, just starting to skin my HS. Jack Textor Des Moines, IA Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com>
Subject: Air compressor/tools suggestions?
Date: Jun 26, 2000
I've just ordered my preview plans after deciding to build the -8. I have no air tools in my shop, but am getting ready to clean out the garage and get things set up. What should I look for in a compressor? I have room for one of those big upright jobs, but what I am more concerned about is being "quiet" for the family and neighbors. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the "oil-free" compressors are noiser than their oiled siblings. Any suggestions? What air pressure range do I need to run my air tools and HVLP sprayer? Any preference on brand of tools? I'm new to this, so please excuse my "simple" questions! Troy Whistman Fort Worth, TX -8 Preview (plans on the way) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Subject: Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle???
Date: Jun 26, 2000
> Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand! > What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8? It seems > everyone has their throttle quadrant on the left and stick set up for the > right hand. But why? I learned to fly in a Cessna 140, left hand on the > yoke and right hand on the throttle. Was it because the Cubs, etc. had the > doors on the right side? Will my test pilot / instructor be able to fly my > 8 if I have a right hand throttle? Oh well, I still have plenty of time to > ponder it, just starting to skin my HS. > > Jack Textor > Des Moines, IA > Empennage I feel your pain :-) Like it or not, the "standard" for tandem aircraft seems to be right hand stick, and left hand throttle. I imagine it would be easy for Van's to offer a right hand throttle arrangement, by asking their computer to make a mirror image of the parts, but I doubt they've had enough requests to justify doing it. You can certainly make your plane the way you want it, but it will require a bit of effort to make new parts for the side consoles, and you will have to negotiate the baggage compartment on the right side. Both of these are quite doable, but keep in mind that it may be a little harder to sell someday. Out of curiosity, are you primarily right handed, or left handed? It would be a first for me to hear of a right handed person requesting a right hand throttle, though it seems logical since that's how most of us learned to fly. I'm left handed, and learning to fly in side by side aircraft was the only break I ever got (still waiting for those left handed scissors the school promised me when I was young). My previous plane was a Kolb SlingShot, which I set it up with a right hand throttle, but left the original left hand throttle attachments intact for future owners. When time came to decide about my RV-8, I sold out and joined the left hand throttle crowd. It had really become more of an issue of principle than a real problem. After all, there really aren't any complete lefties past the age of maybe 5, because most of the world is set up for right handed people, so you learn to be ambidextrous. Anyway, I'd suggest getting some dual in a tandem plane if you can find one. This will give you a taste for right hand stick operations. It will seem awkward until you actually start flying the plane, then you'll be concentrating on more important things and won't even notice that you're using the wrong hand. Once you get a feel for it, you can decide if you want to move the throttle. Good luck, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587 (flying 10 hours with the wrong hand) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Air compressor/tools suggestions?
Date: Jun 26, 2000
My 2 cents. The big uprights are overkill and normally require 220 v. If you want a quiet compressor, go with a Quincy from Harbor Freight. Harbor can also get you good pricing on HVLP spray guns (I use a two-part epoxy primer, Akzo from Aircraft Spruce), and having an HVLP allows me to do a lot of work without worrying about overspray. Re: tools, I bought a Sioux "palm size" air drill which was over kill, but everyone who's seen it has fallen in love with it. Before it is over the drill will become part of your right hand. It is key, key, key to get a good rivet gun. I use a Tatco, but I guess some are better than others. You didn't ask, but for a squeezer you cannot beat Avery's. Rick Jory, RV8A QB -----Original Message----- From: Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> Date: Monday, June 26, 2000 12:42 PM Subject: RV8-List: Air compressor/tools suggestions? > >I've just ordered my preview plans after deciding to build the -8. I have >no air tools in my shop, but am getting ready to clean out the garage and >get things set up. > >What should I look for in a compressor? I have room for one of those big >upright jobs, but what I am more concerned about is being "quiet" for the >family and neighbors. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the >"oil-free" compressors are noiser than their oiled siblings. > >Any suggestions? What air pressure range do I need to run my air tools and >HVLP sprayer? > >Any preference on brand of tools? I'm new to this, so please excuse my >"simple" questions! > >Troy Whistman >Fort Worth, TX >-8 Preview (plans on the way) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com>
Subject: Air compressor/tools suggestions?
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Rick, Thanks for the tips... based on a post in the r.a.h. newsgroup, I did order a Harbor Freight HVLP gun; I'll take a look at their compressors too! I ordered my gun about 2 weeks ago and haven't seen it yet, I think they shipped it Camel Express. Do orders from them normally take that long? I did email their customer service, and was told it had shipped the same day as my order, but no tracking number. Hmmmmm.... Troy -----Original Message----- From: Rick Jory [mailto:rickjory(at)email.msn.com] you want a quiet compressor, go with a Quincy from Harbor Freight. Harbor can also get you good pricing on HVLP spray guns (I use a two-part epoxy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christine & Arthur" <act(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle???
Date: Jun 28, 2000
Jack, As an instructor I fly right hand yoke left hand throttle, on charter work its the other way around. I am naturally right handed but I do not notice any difference. As far as flying is concerned what you learned to do with you left hand your brain will change to doing with your right hand so easily that you are not likely to even notice the difference. Cheers, Arthur Whitehead RV-8 Deburing and dimpling for installation of aft upper skin. > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor > Sent: Tuesday, 27 June 2000 06:23 > To: RV-8-List (E-mail); RV-List (E-mail) > Subject: RV8-List: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? > > > Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand! > What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8? It seems > everyone has their throttle quadrant on the left and stick set up for the > right hand. But why? I learned to fly in a Cessna 140, left hand on the > yoke and right hand on the throttle. Was it because the Cubs, > etc. had the > doors on the right side? Will my test pilot / instructor be able > to fly my > 8 if I have a right hand throttle? Oh well, I still have plenty > of time to > ponder it, just starting to skin my HS. > > Jack Textor > Des Moines, IA > Empennage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: StevePrull(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2000
Subject: Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle???
Jack - I'm an instructor to, so I realize that it ultimately doesn't matter - one can get used to either configuration. However, most people see the left hand throttle as the conventional placement, and if you ever sell the plane, I think it would be helpful to have the throttle in the 'usual' place... working on the empennage... Steve Prull, Bend , Oregon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TboltII(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2000
Subject: Re: Air compressor/tools suggestions?
Troy, Your right the oiled ones are quieter. I went through the same debates and finally ended up with a portable upright from Sears (Craftsmen) 30 gallon. I plumbed the garage with 1/2" 600 psi PVC and the portable just plugs in. I plan on moving the project to a hanger when the wings go on so the portable will be nice, and it is 110V. No need to run a dedicated 220V line. It has worked great and the noise is not as bad as I thought. I run 60 to 80 psi out of the regulator for drilling and riveting. Tom Norton Tboltii(at)aol.com Finishing Rudder -8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 LG box issue - interference with F-802P
I just found a new LG box issue yesterday. I've got interference between the head of one of the AN470 rivets on the back side of the LB boxes and the F-802P support angle. You install the F-802P when working on the mid-cabin covers, which are flat pieces that go between the LG box and the top of the F-804, on each side. The pilot holes on my F-802B differed from that shown on the plans. If my parts were like the plans (DWG 24, R2), I would have been OK. Your parts may be different. The F-802P is a piece of 3/4 wide angle that mounts horizontally on the back side of the F-802B. Its outboard end almost touches the inner edge of the F-844. The top of the F-802P sits 0.063" lower than the top of the F-844. Basically, you don't want any AN470 rivet heads in the area inboard and below the inner edge of the F-844. If I had to do it again, I would probably not drill the hole for the rivet that gave me trouble. You end up drilling a hole to rivet the outboard end of the F-802P anyway, so there will be another rivet going in that area later anyway. I ended up doing some creative carving of the outboard ends of my F-802P to get it to around the rivet. I posted a picture which identifies the offending rivet on my RV-8 Landing Gear Box page: http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/fuselage/f06.html The picture is at the end of the list of Gotchas. Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV877W(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/28/00
Do not get too relieved yet, In the next phase when you start to do the gear mounting you will find that there are other rivet interferances when you try to mount U806 AND U805. Although no creative grinding is necessary, some creative nut holding is called for. If your wife's hand will fit though the small hole at the bottom of 802C you will be ok. One caution. If you are doing a rear mounting battery, pay attention to the suggested change of routing for the battery cable through F802 as it can interfere with the fuel return line or break lines. When mounting U806 and U805 pay attention to the distance from the edge as the angle can pohibit the nut from sitting properly if it is too close to the angle. While its accessable, mark the center line of the angle F843 on the OUTSIDE so when you drill for the mounting bolts you have good clearance. Views for discussion are on DWG35. Jim. RV* QB Tail, Wings, Fuse = 3/4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tcal300(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 04, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 07/03/00
Please remove me from the rv8-list since i do not really receive any messages just the headers. I will stay on the rv-list. I have already sent you an e-mail to change my address for it. Thanks, Tom Calvanelli ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
\"Ben Ransom\"" , "Dennis Souder" , "Bruce Daughtry" , "Jeff Banks" , "Michael Fry" , "John Henley"
Subject: 15 hour report (long but with goodies at the end)
Date: Jul 06, 2000
Greetings from hot, hazy, Florida. My RV-8 has been flying since June 1st, and I now have 15 hours on it, including more rolls than I can count, and one loop. So far, there have been more problems with the pilot than the plane :-) CHT's: High CHT's in climb on the rear cylinders have been by my biggest problem. On the first few flights, the CHT's would redline before I could even hit pattern altitude unless I held at least 120 kts. Van's said don't do anything to "fix" it until the (new O-360) engine gets at least 25 hours on it. Lycoming said to check the baffles, and timing. Well, the timing for both mags was about 28-29 degrees from the factory, and I reset them to 25. Maybe that helped a little. The baffles seal quite well, but I did put 3 of Van's blast tube hoses in the rear wall of the baffle for the mags and gascolator. I plugged up the two for the mags, and that probably made a bit more improvement. Those two improvements, coupled with a possible temp reduction from engine break-in have given me some optimism. If I get to the close end of the runway without wasting too much time, I can have a departure CHT of about 160C (320F), and the climb CHT never exceeds 210C (410F) by the time I have to level out at 1400 ft, even with a climb speed of 90kts. If I get delayed on the ground, and the CHT gets to 190C (374F) before departure, the climb speed will hit 240C (464F) by the time I get to 1400 ft. I'm currently using 240C as my max temp for normal operation, and increase the airspeed as necessary to keep from exceeding that. The early flights hit 260C (500F) temporarily. Instruments: I can't read the GPS very well. It will have to be angled toward me when I get around to it. My biggest disappointment is with the electric RC Allen attitude indicator. This thing seems to be off level every time I look at it. I cage it during straight and level flight, and in a few minutes, after some gentle turns, it seems to show about a 10 degree bank. The DG behaves well, but the AI scares me. After all, I installed it as basic life support for night flying and Summer haze conditions. At this point, I can't trust it. I'll probably watch it some more, then call the manufacturer and ask about it. Trim: No trim problems really. There may be just the slightest left wing heavy condition. I have to move the mechanical aileron trim slightly towards the right trim direction with even fuel. Of course, with the friction of the aileron trim setup in the -8, it's hard to tell exactly where center really is. I'm content that it's close enough for now. The ball is dead center in cruise, so no rudder trim is needed. Elevator mechanical trim is working just dandy, and the elevator is in trail during cruise flight, so no horz stab adjustments will be needed. Speeds: Power off stall clean is 55kts indicated, and with flaps is 50 kts indicated. Stall occurs with lots of buffet and noise, very unlike the RV-6 that I checked out in. I've been trying to use 80kts on final, and 75 or so over the fence, with full flaps. This works pretty well. Half flaps float like you wouldn't believe, but will probably be better when there is a passenger. Currently, the plane is unpainted, and the glass work is very rough. Wheel pants are on, but no leg fairings or intersection fairings. 75% power cruise at about 7000 ft is roughly averaging 168 kts (193 mph) with 180 hp, and a Sensenich 85" pitch prop. I have no doubt that I will make the tail number (N174KT) in cruise when all the cleanup is done, and I have more space to really let things settle out. Vx with be tough to determine until I get the CHT's a bit lower, but Vy is 90-100 kts and about 1700 fpm at 1000 ft. Even at 10,000 feet the other day, I was still seeing over 1000 fpm climb :-) Best glide has yet to be determined (shame on me). Aerobatics: Rolls are easy, and have been entered from 120-160 kts. My only loop was a non-event (for the plane). I entered it at 150kts with a 3.5G pull-up, had 70kts over the top, and 160kts on the back side. More of this to come. Test area: Waaaaay to damn small. I got stuck with a 25 mile radius, and I'm quite sick of it already. I'm also pretty sure that Pensacola approach is tired of having me circling around over their class C airspace squawking 1200. Maybe they'll put in a word with the FSDO to get my area increased. Test time: 40 hours is too long for an RV-8 with a new engine and Sensenich prop. By the time I hit 25 hours, I'll be completely done with any testing I can think of, and just wasting fossil fuel at $2.35/gal. Video: What? Video??? Remember when I asked about video camera mounts? The RAM mount is perfecto! I've shot a couple flight's worth of video, and will post some small clips. In fact, the first clip is a quick (and sloppy) aileron roll in mpg format. There are 2 files. One is pretty good quality @ 4.1 mb, and the other is crappy quality @ .5 mb. You can find them at: http://www.my.ispchannel.com/~rv8/index.html That's all for now, Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587 (flying-15 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 06, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: 15 hour report (long but with goodies at the end)
It sounds like you have a real winner there...congrats!...I am seriously thinking of a RV-8 A..but I need to find one that is almost completed, as I'm growing older---fast....again, congrats!..jolly in aurora, ore. Russell Duffy wrote: > > Greetings from hot, hazy, Florida. > > My RV-8 has been flying since June 1st, and I now have 15 hours on it, > including more rolls than I can count, and one loop. So far, there have > been more problems with the pilot than the plane :-) > > CHT's: High CHT's in climb on the rear cylinders have been by my biggest > problem. On the first few flights, the CHT's would redline before I could > even hit pattern altitude unless I held at least 120 kts. Van's said don't > do anything to "fix" it until the (new O-360) engine gets at least 25 hours > on it. Lycoming said to check the baffles, and timing. Well, the timing > for both mags was about 28-29 degrees from the factory, and I reset them to > 25. Maybe that helped a little. The baffles seal quite well, but I did put > 3 of Van's blast tube hoses in the rear wall of the baffle for the mags and > gascolator. I plugged up the two for the mags, and that probably made a bit > more improvement. Those two improvements, coupled with a possible temp > reduction from engine break-in have given me some optimism. If I get to the > close end of the runway without wasting too much time, I can have a > departure CHT of about 160C (320F), and the climb CHT never exceeds 210C > (410F) by the time I have to level out at 1400 ft, even with a climb speed > of 90kts. If I get delayed on the ground, and the CHT gets to 190C (374F) > before departure, the climb speed will hit 240C (464F) by the time I get to > 1400 ft. I'm currently using 240C as my max temp for normal operation, and > increase the airspeed as necessary to keep from exceeding that. The early > flights hit 260C (500F) temporarily. > > Instruments: I can't read the GPS very well. It will have to be angled > toward me when I get around to it. My biggest disappointment is with the > electric RC Allen attitude indicator. This thing seems to be off level > every time I look at it. I cage it during straight and level flight, and in > a few minutes, after some gentle turns, it seems to show about a 10 degree > bank. The DG behaves well, but the AI scares me. After all, I installed it > as basic life support for night flying and Summer haze conditions. At this > point, I can't trust it. I'll probably watch it some more, then call the > manufacturer and ask about it. > > Trim: No trim problems really. There may be just the slightest left wing > heavy condition. I have to move the mechanical aileron trim slightly > towards the right trim direction with even fuel. Of course, with the > friction of the aileron trim setup in the -8, it's hard to tell exactly > where center really is. I'm content that it's close enough for now. The > ball is dead center in cruise, so no rudder trim is needed. Elevator > mechanical trim is working just dandy, and the elevator is in trail during > cruise flight, so no horz stab adjustments will be needed. > > Speeds: Power off stall clean is 55kts indicated, and with flaps is 50 kts > indicated. Stall occurs with lots of buffet and noise, very unlike the RV-6 > that I checked out in. I've been trying to use 80kts on final, and 75 or so > over the fence, with full flaps. This works pretty well. Half flaps float > like you wouldn't believe, but will probably be better when there is a > passenger. Currently, the plane is unpainted, and the glass work is very > rough. Wheel pants are on, but no leg fairings or intersection fairings. > 75% power cruise at about 7000 ft is roughly averaging 168 kts (193 mph) > with 180 hp, and a Sensenich 85" pitch prop. I have no doubt that I will > make the tail number (N174KT) in cruise when all the cleanup is done, and I > have more space to really let things settle out. Vx with be tough to > determine until I get the CHT's a bit lower, but Vy is 90-100 kts and about > 1700 fpm at 1000 ft. Even at 10,000 feet the other day, I was still seeing > over 1000 fpm climb :-) Best glide has yet to be determined (shame on me). > > Aerobatics: Rolls are easy, and have been entered from 120-160 kts. My > only loop was a non-event (for the plane). I entered it at 150kts with a > 3.5G pull-up, had 70kts over the top, and 160kts on the back side. More of > this to come. > > Test area: Waaaaay to damn small. I got stuck with a 25 mile radius, and > I'm quite sick of it already. I'm also pretty sure that Pensacola approach > is tired of having me circling around over their class C airspace squawking > 1200. Maybe they'll put in a word with the FSDO to get my area increased. > > Test time: 40 hours is too long for an RV-8 with a new engine and Sensenich > prop. By the time I hit 25 hours, I'll be completely done with any testing > I can think of, and just wasting fossil fuel at $2.35/gal. > > Video: What? Video??? Remember when I asked about video camera mounts? > The RAM mount is perfecto! I've shot a couple flight's worth of video, and > will post some small clips. In fact, the first clip is a quick (and sloppy) > aileron roll in mpg format. There are 2 files. One is pretty good quality > @ 4.1 mb, and the other is crappy quality @ .5 mb. You can find them at: > http://www.my.ispchannel.com/~rv8/index.html > > That's all for now, > > Russell Duffy > Navarre, FL > RV-8, 80587 (flying-15 hours) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 07, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: 15 hour report (long but with goodies at the end)
Russ, Thanks for the update. It's a shame about your CHT's, but on the other hand, it's great to know you built a "straight" plane. Please keep the updates coming. They really help us who are trying to finish our birds! Russell Duffy wrote: > > Greetings from hot, hazy, Florida. > > My RV-8 has been flying since June 1st, and I now have 15 hours on it, > including more rolls than I can count, and one loop. So far, there have > been more problems with the pilot than the plane :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
\"Hal Banks\"" , "Jeff Banks" , "Dennis Souder" , "Bruce Daughtry" , "Bobby Hargrave" , "Ben Ransom"
Subject: 15 hour report correction
Date: Jul 07, 2000
> Video: What? Video??? Remember when I asked about video camera mounts? > The RAM mount is perfecto! I've shot a couple flight's worth of video, and > will post some small clips. In fact, the first clip is a quick (and sloppy) > aileron roll in mpg format. There are 2 files. One is pretty good quality > @ 4.1 mb, and the other is crappy quality @ .5 mb. You can find them at: > http://www.my.ispchannel.com/~rv8/index.html Thanks to Bernie for pointing out that this link is bad. My isp changed the URL, and I didn't notice that they leave off the www part now. The correct link is: http://my.ispchannel.com/~rv8/index.html Sorry, Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
Date: Jul 09, 2000
Subject: Sender: owner-rv8-list-server
Good morning friends, I'm starting my Vertical Stab (RV8)and should start thinking about a lighting system. I purchased the rudder bottom designed to mount a light. Plan to use my 8 mostly during daylight but want some kind of system for occasional evening flying. Would like to keep cost as low as possible. Any suggestions? Should I drill VS for plasic conduit for tip light? Also, THANKS to all that helped with my HS814pp. It turned out fine!!! I have a spare for anybody that needs one. Thanks, Jack Textor Des Moines, IA RV8 (HS almost closed and VS structure done) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 09, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sender: owner-rv8-list-server
WTG Jack! It sounds like you are well on your way. Low costs are a great goal but one that I have found challenging now that I'm finishing my fuse. Since most things are one-time purchases for this aircraft I tend to simply put in what I want and worry about the costs later. A few dollars here and there won't matter in the long run. An airplane seldom makes any financial sense anyway . . . it's a purchase from the heart. If I had it to do over, since I started in 8/96 I would definitely spring for some nice tools right off the back rather than picking them up one at a time. Pneumatic squeezer with 4" jaws, angle drill, top quality die grinder, cut off saw, etc . . .. Keep up the good work. Rob Miller RV8 209-848-4590 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: " bert" <bertrv(at)rdtnet.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 07/03/00
Date: Jul 08, 2000
Tom: The only way to remove your name from any list, is doing it, the way the computer is set , to do this. I also had some time, to get used to the system. Untill some one told me, and also they remind me... when everything fails,, read the insutructions??? Tom you have to go to the matronics list, and use the unsubscribe, just follow directions.. hope this helps... Bert Do No Archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV877W(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 10, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/09/00
I would have to concur. I have been building since 3/99 and finishing up on the fuse. At first I thought that I could save on tools $ and use "comparable" tools. THIS DOSENT work. Having the "right" tool at the time is mandatory to good workmanship. I have found that a quality tool lasts much longer and makes the job faster and cleaner. I have the scrap to prove it. Tools which you cant have enough of are clamps, cleco's, small profile electric drill, bench grinder, bench vise, and a tool that I have found to be priceless is a Dremel hand grinder. Most of these tools do not come with the starter kit. By the time you reach the need for these the cost of a starter kit will be forgotten. Jim E. RV8 Fuse. PA28-180 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2000
From: Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Subject: Oshkosh Meeting of RV-8 Builders
Hi, gang-- For the last few years, a bunch of RV-8 builders have gathered at Oshkosh to meet and get to know one another. I've organized these meetings at the Theater in the Woods and had great turnouts. It has been great to cement friendships with people with whom I've chatted many times online, grappling with the pains of building our dream planes. To finally put faces with names has been really gratifying, and the mutual support only further bolsters my determination to finish this project. I'll be arriving at Oshkosh on Saturday, July 22nd--the weekend before it actually cranks up--and leaving on Sunday, July 30th. I'm setting aside a couple of meeting times if anyone is interested: Thursday, July 27th, 10:00am Sunday, July 30th, 10:00am As before, we'll meet somewhere in the shade of the trees of the Theater in the Woods. I'll try to remember to bring Sharpies and nametags for everyone. Bob Dimeo is again in charge of the donuts (just kidding, Bob!) As always, everyone is welcome, whether building an -8(a) or not. Hope to see you and put a face with a name. Any questions, give me a buzz. --Don McNamara N8RV (fuse...still) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
Subject: RTV sealer
Date: Jul 17, 2000
Good morning friends, Working on my -8- rudder, cut stiffeners last night :( . As you know Van's specifies using RTV sealer in the trailing edge of rudder and elevators. Which sealer is best? Blue? Black? Also, learned today that if you use acetone, make sure it's "virgin", not recycled. If recycled it apparently is acidic. Thanks! Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 20, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Canopy Skirt Problem
Hey Guys, I encountered a problem today with my canopy skirt. When the plane is sitting inside out of the sun, the skirt hugs the fuselage so well its hard to get a piece of 320 grit sandpaper between the two. Today, when I took it outside in the sun, the skirt heated up and separated from the fuselage about 1/8 of an inch. This bothers me and I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and what you did to fix it. Thanks. Joe Czachorowski #80125 ( trying to paint this puppy)(I hate fiberglass!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Aux fuel pump placement
Hello shortlisters Why do you suppose the plans show the position of the fuel pump to be inside the forward fuselage? By my way of twisted thinking, I would prefer to mount the pump on the left firewall with the gascolator positioned in the center of the fw. Why or why not is this possible? Rob Miller 80153 running out of parts! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 22, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Seat foam
Those of you who have upholstery installed, what kind of foam did you use in the seats, what thicknesses, and what is your height? -- Sorry to get personal ;) Thanks in advance RE Miller 80153 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 22, 2000
Subject: Re: Seat foam
I went the very inexpensive route- A friend gave me some big pieces of gray foam he had around the house. My wife and I cut it to fit in the seat and around the stick with electric knife. Wife upholstered seats and entire copit,Looks OK. Have less then $60.00 in all interior upholestery. But, my butt after a 2.30 flight can feel the hinges in the floor where the adjustment is. So At OSH next week will purchase the expensive foam and re-do the seats. Wife has encouraged this purchase as she is my flying partner. Terry E. Cole N468TC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Room at OSH available
Date: Jul 23, 2000
Well, my on-again off-again plans for OSH are off again, at least for most of it, so the room I had reserved will be available. This is a room with a queen bed in a nice house with central air. The hostess, Sharon Hawkins, provides continental breakfast. She works the EAA too so it should be possible to catch a ride with her to and from the show when she goes. The house is close to a bus line so you can get to/from that way too. Its available for the whole show. If interested, contact Sharon Hawkins, 920-232-8554. Please email me if you get the room so I can get my deposit back. Randall Henderson randall(at)edt.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "brian wallis" <brianpwallis(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8-wing kit needed
Date: Jul 24, 2000
Hello, I am an active duty ARMY helicopter(UH-60) crewchief building a RV-8. I cannot afford to pay list price for everything. If anyone has a -8 wing kit for sale I would be very grateful if anybody knows anyone who could help me out. Thank you for your time.(and any parts or advice also) Spc. Brian Wallis A Co. 2-10 AVN REG 10414 S. Riva Ridge Lp. Ft. Drum, NY 13602 (315-775-7913) brianpwallis(at)hotmail.com the tall goofy guy with a tail kit..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Room at OSH taken
Date: Jul 23, 2000
Looks like the room I posted at OSH (Sharon Hawkins') has been taken (Charlie, be sure to let me and/or the list know if anything changes.) I will in fact be going but not until Friday or Saturday, and I'll just camp. Look forward to seeing y'all! Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: terje.kobro(at)platou.com.by.fep1.mta.online.no.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.27
201-229-119-110)
Subject: Aux fuel pump placement
Date: Jul 24, 2000
rob- did you check this one with vans's ?? terje kobro 81104-norway > -----Original Message----- > From: RE Miller [mailto:rmill2000(at)yahoo.com] > Sent: 22. juli 2000 04:07 > To: Rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Aux fuel pump placement > > > > Hello shortlisters > > Why do you suppose the plans show the position of the > fuel pump to be inside the forward fuselage? By my > way of twisted thinking, I would prefer to mount the > pump on the left firewall with the gascolator > positioned in the center of the fw. Why or why not is > this possible? > > Rob Miller > 80153 > running out of parts! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Jul 30, 2000
Subject: New Windows Utility For SkyMap II/IIIC...
Listers, For those of you that have had the pleasure of flying with one of the new Skyforce/King Skymap II or IIICs, I've been working on a Windows application that you might be interested in. Its call SkyComm and allows you to connect up your Windows 95/98/NT/2000 PC or laptop to the RS232 serial port on the Skymap and manage a number of its internal datasets. Some of SkyComm's features include Screen Shot Capture, Upload/Download of up to 4000 characters to the Skymap's internal Notepad for something like an online checklists etc., Upload/Download of Waypoint and Route data, and Download of the Skymap's Logger database. There's even a built in wiring diagram for the requisite RS232 cable! I have just finished Version 1.0 and am considering this Beta 1. I have setup a rather extensive web site for information on the application and for its download. If you have a SkyMap, you're going to want this program! Best of all, its FREE! Well, I do ask that those that like it make a voluntary List contribution... :-) The URL for the site is listed below and can also now be found off the main Matronics web site as well as the specific List web pages. Please download the program and let me know what you think! Comments should be directed to support(at)matronics.com SkyComm Web Site ---------------- http://www.matronics.com/skycomm/ Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: AMP Transducer
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Visions Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 15:04:25 HST I need some ideas. Any of you that have the Visions Microsystems panel on board. Can you tell me where you placed you load sensor? I have all my wires bundled together at the time. The sensor board has mounting screws. I hate thinking about just threading the power wire through it and letting it just hang. But I also don't want to drill any more holes through the firewall unless I really need to. Thanks for you ideas. Mike Robertson RV-8A Mike, I called Vision Microsystems about this. They said they wanted it mounted between the Alternator and the Battery. They also said it should be protected from heat and moisture. The best I could do was to mount it near the battery box (on the firewall) and wrap it in shrink wrap tape. It's just hanging there on the FAT alternator wire but is held securely with the shrink-wrap tape. I fired the engine up, pushed the ALT CB in and the amps started to register on the LED display. It works fine but time will tell if the engine compartment heat will bother it. Joe Czachorowski #80125 ( painting fuselage) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Aug 05, 2000
Subject: New RV-9 List At Matronics!
Hi RV Listers! Due to popular demand, I have added a new RV9-List email forum to the Matronics server. As you might have expected, the name of the list is: rv9-list(at)matronics.com and you may subscribe to it by going to the usual Subscription page found at: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Be sure to scroll down to the newly added "RV9-List" and "RV9-List-Digest" buttons on the Subscription page. I have also added support in the Search Engine and Download sections for the new List. These can be found at: http://www.matronics.com/search and http://www.matronics.com/archives respectivly. Have fun, and best regards!!! Matt Dralle Email List Admin, Matronics. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Control Column Blues
> Hello shortlisters! > > Has anyone had a problem with Control > Column/Sticks/Pushrod installation. In a perfect > world the pushrod that connects the two sticks > floats > effortlessly inside the control column . . . but not > in my world, arrrgghhhh! My pushrod drags the > bottom > of the column when connected to the sticks. I have > hogged out the column and shaved the rivet heads on > the pushrod but still have some friction. Anyone > been > here and done this? > > Thanks > > Rob Miller (Darn near ready to take up knitting) > 80153 Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Grking3(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2000
Subject: Re: Control Column Blues
I believe Van's has updated the kits to fix this problem. My kit came with F-839-1 instead of F-839. F-839-1 is an aluminum tube with tapered pre-formed female threaded ends and no rivets that go inside the control column. Mine came in a plastic baggie and is gold in color. That might be your problem. My preview plans (DWG 25 R2 10/98) show F-839, but the plans that came with my QB last month (DWG 25 R3 05/99) show F-839-1 and list that as the change. I assume you can get F-839-1 from Van's >In a perfect > world the pushrod that connects the two sticks > floats > effortlessly inside the control column . . . but not > in my world, arrrgghhhh! My pushrod drags the > bottom > of the column when connected to the sticks. I have > hogged out the column and shaved the rivet heads on > the pushrod but still have some friction. Greg King RV-8 QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
Date: Aug 06, 2000
Subject: HELP with RV8 rudder bottom and platenut size
I'm starting to assemble the bottom of RV8 rudder spar/rib. Do I leave the forward flange of R404 on and drill it to match the holes in the spar R802, R606PP and R405 and K1000-6 platenut? Also the plans call out a 13/32 hole for the K1000- 6 platenut. It appears I need a hole 15/32 for the platenut to fit. If I drill it 15/32 for the platenut on R405 the edge distance will be will be quite close at 3/16. Thanks in advance for the help. Jack Textor RV8 - rudder Des Moines, IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2000
From: Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Control Column Blues
Rob-- You are not alone. Many of us have been through the same thing. The solution is a new weldment, not the redesigned connecting rod. I called Van's with this knowledge prior to assembling the control column and was told that I'd have to go ahead and assemble the control column and see if I had the problem before attempting a fix. I was told that only a few had had problems with this. It seemed pretty silly to waste time and materials just to prove a point, but I did as instructed. Indeed, the connecting rod scraped the bottom of the weldment tube, just like the other builders had experienced. I called and was told to "smack the weldment tube with a big hammer a few times" to make its cross-section oval instead of round, thereby allowing clearance for the connecting rod. Really. So, I did. Now, the rod no longer bottomed-out against the weldment tube, but the bolts on the ends of the connecting rod scraped the sides of the weldment! Again, I called Van's and was told that they had "fixed the problem by redesigning the connecting rod," and they would send me one. They did. It didn't help. I finally called and talked at length with Bill, and he agreed to send me a new weldment, one that had been redesigned to raise the bolt attachment point above the previous design, allowing the connecting rod to swing freely within the weldment tube. Unfortunately, I had to be firm in my resolve to eliminate any source of binding in the control column, and press the issue until someone finally gave in and sent me the correctly designed weldment. My hope is that they have corrected this problem with all the new weldments, and that a quick phone call to Van's would secure the right weldment for you. Give it a try. --Don McNamara N8RV RE Miller wrote: > > > Hello shortlisters! > > > > Has anyone had a problem with Control > > Column/Sticks/Pushrod installation. In a perfect > > world the pushrod that connects the two sticks > > floats > > effortlessly inside the control column . . . but not > > in my world, arrrgghhhh! My pushrod drags the > > bottom > > of the column when connected to the sticks. I have > > hogged out the column and shaved the rivet heads on > > the pushrod but still have some friction. Anyone > > been > > here and done this? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Subject: Re: Control Column Blues
Date: Aug 06, 2000
> > effortlessly inside the control column . . . but not > > in my world, arrrgghhhh! My pushrod drags the > > bottom Rob, Don was right on the money with his tale of woe and advice. Several of us had the same problem, and the only acceptable solution in my mind is to get a new weldment. The new one works, and the old one doesn't- simple as that. I doubt Van's will give you any hassle about getting a new weldment. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, 80587 (Flew my first passenger today!!!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV877W(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 08/06/00
My strongest suggestion is that: 1: It was bent on shippment - call vans for replacement! 2. Your looking at it incorrectly. - review the measurements. 3. Take pictures and send them to Scott at vans for a second opinion. No one I know of (several) has experienced this.... Mine fit perfectly. Jim RV8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: Platenut hole size HELP
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Hello listers, Van's call out a hole size of 13/32 for the K1000-6 platenut. Is 15/32 the correct size? Thanks, Jack Textor RV8 Des Moines, IA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Platenut hole size HELP
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Jack, For any -6 nutplate the center hole should be no more than 3/16" with the outer rivet holes being #40. I usually drill the center hole slightly smaller than the 3/16. Just big enough for the screw to fit through. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV-8-List (E-mail)" , "RV-List >(E-mail)" >Subject: RV8-List: Platenut hole size HELP >Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 07:36:35 -0500 > > >Hello listers, Van's call out a hole size of 13/32 for the K1000-6 >platenut. >Is 15/32 the correct size? >Thanks, >Jack Textor >RV8 >Des Moines, IA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Control Column Blues/Aftermath
Thanks again to everyone who offered advice on the scaping pushrod/control column. I called Van's today and they are sending a replacement part, no questions asked. Although if they knew there were defective parts, it would have like to have been notified instead of wasting two precious vacation days trying to solve this problem. But I wonder . . . if one of the pop rivet heads on the pushrod that connects the two sticks were to snag on the control column (it does drag unless a new part is ordered) the pilot would initially not have any up elevator. As more and more force would be needed to break the pushrod free, the sudden input when the rivet head let go would cause high, positive g-force. Since many of the early kits seem to have this defective part, I wonder if this could have possibly caused the big accident. Evidence of such a problem would almost certainly be destoyed in the post-crash fire. I know its just speculation, but its one of the few things that would make sense. Onward and upward Rob Miller 80153 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: Platte Nuts, Daaaa, Bingo!!
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Hi listers, After revisiting the plans, manual and with your help, the light finally came on for me. When helping with questions, don't assume the lister (me) has a brain. Never having used plate nuts (learned to spell it too) I was assuming the main hole should be drilled big enough for the actual body of the plate nut to slide through (think this came from my old modeling days using blind nuts). I now understand that usually the nut is mounted flush with the structure and the main hole just has to be big enough for the bolts to pass through before seating in the plate nut. Thank goodness I just slowed down and ask for help, which saved me from drilling the rudder horn and, spar and rib to large. Thanks Again!! Jack RV8 rudder Des Moines, IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Burlington Colorado Flyin
Listers, It is hard to believe but a year has almost past and it is again time for the RV Builder's Dream Event in Burlington, Colorado. The 5th Annual Burlington RV Flyin happens this year September 22nd-24th at ITR in Eastern Colorado. Events this year include a Poker Run and for you real competitive guys a Speed Race. Awards judging also takes place so bring your pride and Joy and take home a beautiful trophy. Burlington is not for flying RV's only. No matter how you get there there are forums on how to make it go faster and for the builders amongst us lots of airplanes to look at and builder/flyers to answer questions. If you have MS-WORD http://www.geocities.com/zilik/Burlington.doc has all the info. For those who do not have MS-WORD I have converted (poorly mind you) the word document to html and this can be viewed by going to: http:www.geocities.com/zilik/Burlington.html So mark you calendars and come and visit us in Burlington, Colorado. The best RV flyin in the US. Gary Zilik RV-6A - 0-360-A1A 75 hrs and counting. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Cowl progress
Date: Aug 15, 2000
Gang, Many of you have been following my Sam James cowl project with interest. I made some progress over the weekend after staring at it for about a month. Staring didn't really help, but it did give me time to decide to just drill a bunch of aluminum patches on to lock things in place which allowed me to finally commit the position. New pics and comments can be found at... http://www.rv-8.com/pgPlenumCowl.htm Randy Lervold #80500, cowling www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JD Doughty" <johndoughty(at)home.com>
Subject: RV8A quick build kit for sale
Date: Aug 16, 2000
Empennage is done. Rudder pedal/cables, contol arm, floor, flap actuator and flap weldment and throttle panel are installed. Electric aileron and elevator trim. QB wings and finish kit are still in box. Engine mount and cowl were not ordered because I could not decide which engine to use. 24K invested. Asking 19K. johndoughty(at)home.com 219-933-7499 (Hammond, IN) JD Doughty JD Doughty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TonyKoenig(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 16, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8A quick build kit for sale
Why are you selling? I live in Louisville, KY how far are you away from me? Do you have any pictures? Thanks Tony ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JD Doughty" <johndoughty(at)home.com>
Subject: RV8A quick build kit for sale
Date: Aug 17, 2000
Tony, I have enjoyed building the aircraft. However, the wife does not understand what a good kit Vans offers and we are having problems in regards to the kids flying in it. I plan to purchase a production aircarft. I am at the NW corner of Indiana approx. 8 hours from you. I have two people flying in on Saturday to look at it. If you are interested please check back to see if I sold it. I have two offers within 24 hrs so I think it is going to sell quickly, JD -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of TonyKoenig(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 5:49 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8A quick build kit for sale Why are you selling? I live in Louisville, KY how far are you away from me? Do you have any pictures? Thanks Tony ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: RV8 Tail light
Date: Aug 23, 2000
Hello, Yesterday there was post regarding running the tail light wire in the front of the rudder bottom. Could the individual who did that contact me re how it was done and how it exited the fuselage. Like a dummy I didn't make provisions for it before closing my VS and Rudder. Thanks, Jack Textor RV8 Des Moines, IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2000
From: larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com>
Subject: (no subject)
please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe
Date: Aug 24, 2000
Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List. V/R, David Foelker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2000
From: larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com>
Subject: RV4-List: (no subject)
--> RV4-List message posted by: larry laporte please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil>
Subject: RV-List: RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe
Date: Aug 24, 2000
--> RV-List message posted by: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List. V/R, David Foelker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil>
Subject: RV4-List: RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe
Date: Aug 24, 2000
--> RV4-List message posted by: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List. V/R, David Foelker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2000
From: larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com>
Subject: RV-List: (no subject)
--> RV-List message posted by: larry laporte please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2000
From: "Masters, Donald" <donald.masters(at)lmco.com>
Subject: To: "'rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com'"
un-subscribe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Subject: RV-8 Kit for sale
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Hello listers, After 3.5 years in the Seattle area, I am moving back to Ottawa Canada. I have decided to try and sell my kit rather risk moving it that far. Plus I wont have the space to work on it for the next year or so. I will probably start over with a Quick-Build then. It is RV-8 Kit # 80047: a.. the empennage is complete, b.. the wings are ready to close, c.. fuel tanks done by Don London, d.. above are all epoxy primed inside and out, e.. brand new fuselage kit, still in the crate. f.. Van's wiring kit g.. 3 DuckWorks lights (two landing, one taxi) (don't ask) h.. AOA sensor mounted in left wing (no display) i.. Was inspected twice by Jon Ammeter j.. Will sell Air Compressor if you want it. Located in Bellevue, WA Make me an offer. Sylvain Duford 425.260.1132 "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler...", Albert Einstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Kit for sale
Date: Aug 30, 2000
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sylvain Duford" Hello listers, After 3.5 years in the Seattle area, I am moving back to Ottawa Canada. I have decided to try and sell my kit rather risk moving it that far. Plus I wont have the space to work on it for the next year or so. I will probably start over with a Quick-Build then. It is RV-8 Kit # 80047: a.. the empennage is complete, b.. the wings are ready to close, c.. fuel tanks done by Don London, d.. above are all epoxy primed inside and out, e.. brand new fuselage kit, still in the crate. f.. Van's wiring kit g.. 3 DuckWorks lights (two landing, one taxi) (don't ask) h.. AOA sensor mounted in left wing (no display) i.. Was inspected twice by Jon Ammeter j.. Will sell Air Compressor if you want it. Located in Bellevue, WA Make me an offer. Sylvain Duford 425.260.1132 "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler...", Albert Einstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin
I drilled and clecoed the F-825 aft fuselage upper skin on my RV-8 yesterday, and I've got a couple of questions. 1. There is so specific mention in my manual about when to rivet this skin in place (manual date 7/22/98). I assume that I can rivet it any time now without causing any grief later. Comments? 2. You can't dimple the underlying skin and longeron, so I've got to decide what to do. I could countersink the aft upper skin, but it is only 0.025, which is a bit thin for countersinking. I'm considering dimpling this skin, and countersinking the underlying side skin, which is 0.032. Has anyone else done this and liked it, or had problems? Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2000
From: "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin
Kevin, When I put on my rear turtle deck skin, I countersunk the longeron only. The skin and the bulkheads were dimpled. Now, here is where you can make a real nice job. Right before you attach your skin to the bulkheads, get some 3-M 2216 epoxy. I used this stuff all over my plane (BTW this is not my idea but came from the guys in California who are building RV's). Lay a small bead along the longerons and a larger bead on the bulkheads. This stuff will fill in any gaps and will basically eliminate any "puckers" in the skin. Clecoe the skin down and use MEK to wipe off any excess exopy. Let it sit a day. The next day, remove the clecoes and clean up the holes "slightly" with and deburr bit. Now your ready to rivet and the skin will not shift and you won't get tired of pulling clecoes out after every rivet! However, when you rivet, BACK RIVET ONLY! Put your bucking bar on the outside of the skin and rivet from the inside. I did 90 % of my fuselage like that. You need a long back rivet set to clear the flange of the bulkheads. Cleaveland Tools made me one up special (It's the same back rivet set they sell for riveting control surfaces but longer). If you need to use mine, let me know. My plane is almost done. I just finished painting. Joe #80125 Kevin Horton wrote: > > I drilled and clecoed the F-825 aft fuselage upper skin on my RV-8 > yesterday, and I've got a couple of questions. > > 1. There is so specific mention in my manual about when to rivet this > skin in place (manual date 7/22/98). I assume that I can rivet it > any time now without causing any grief later. Comments? > > 2. You can't dimple the underlying skin and longeron, so I've got to > decide what to do. I could countersink the aft upper skin, but it is > only 0.025, which is a bit thin for countersinking. I'm considering > dimpling this skin, and countersinking the underlying side skin, > which is 0.032. Has anyone else done this and liked it, or had > problems? > > Thanks, > > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) > Ottawa, Canada > http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin
Joe, Thanks for the reply. I've definitely got to learn more about this 3M 2216 stuff. You say to back rivet only - is this because you like back riveting, or because the epoxy will be squeezed out leaving a depression if you rivet the "normal" way? Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html > >Kevin, > When I put on my rear turtle deck skin, I countersunk the >longeron only. The skin and the bulkheads were dimpled. Now, here is >where you can make a real nice job. Right before you attach your skin to >the bulkheads, get some 3-M 2216 epoxy. I used this stuff all over my >plane (BTW this is not my idea but came from the guys in California who >are building RV's). Lay a small bead along the longerons and a larger >bead on the bulkheads. This stuff will fill in any gaps and will >basically eliminate any "puckers" in the skin. > > Clecoe the skin down and use MEK to wipe off any excess exopy. Let >it sit a day. The next day, remove the clecoes and clean up the holes >"slightly" with and deburr bit. Now your ready to rivet and the skin >will not shift and you won't get tired of pulling clecoes out after every >rivet! However, when you rivet, BACK RIVET ONLY! Put your bucking bar >on the outside of the skin and rivet from the inside. I did 90 % of my >fuselage like that. You need a long back rivet set to clear the flange >of the bulkheads. Cleaveland Tools made me one up special (It's the same >back rivet set they sell for riveting control surfaces but longer). If >you need to use mine, let me know. My plane is almost done. I just >finished painting. > >Joe >#80125 > >Kevin Horton wrote: > >> >> I drilled and clecoed the F-825 aft fuselage upper skin on my RV-8 >> yesterday, and I've got a couple of questions. >> >> 1. There is so specific mention in my manual about when to rivet this >> skin in place (manual date 7/22/98). I assume that I can rivet it >> any time now without causing any grief later. Comments? >> >> 2. You can't dimple the underlying skin and longeron, so I've got to >> decide what to do. I could countersink the aft upper skin, but it is >> only 0.025, which is a bit thin for countersinking. I'm considering >> dimpling this skin, and countersinking the underlying side skin, >> which is 0.032. Has anyone else done this and liked it, or had >> problems? >> >> Thanks, >> >> -- >> Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) >> Ottawa, Canada >> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2000
From: "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin
Kevin Horton wrote: > > Joe, > > . You say to back rivet only - is this because you like > back riveting, or because the epoxy will be squeezed out leaving a > depression if you rivet the "normal" way? Kevin, I do like back riveting better than the normal way only because it is almost "goof-proof." You don't get any "Smiles" from your rivet set because you are smashing the rivet from underneath and placing a nice flat bucking bar on top. This is especially important on concave surfaces like the turtle-deck. The 2216 Epoxy will already be hard when it comes to rivet. Nothing squeezes out. Also, another nice feature of the epoxy is that it fills all voids between the skin and the flange. If you do choose to buck the rivets the conventional way, your skin will be much nicer because a slight slip of the gun will not put a smile in your skin because the epoxy is behind it. I wish I could tell you where to buy this stuff. I borrowed some from my brother. I'm sure someone on the list knows. Joe RV-8 # 80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2000
From: "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu>
rv8 list
Subject: Re: RV-8 aft fuselage upper skin
"Joseph W. Czachorowski" wrote: > > Joe -- I bought a back-riveting set and bucking bar. But I was put > > off by the stern instructions > > from Avery's that "you must use 2 people, and if the set slips off it > > will do serious damage to the > > skin ..." etc. In my case, I try to do everything solo because of > > the effort of lining someone up to > > help when needed. > > > > Question therefore: Can you do this sort of back-riveting solo? > > > > Gordon > > RV8. Just completed first tank :-} > > Gordon, > Absolutely! Every place that I could physical reach > both sides of the rivet I would back rivet by myself. I prefer to work > solo when I can because I can control both ends and know exactly how > much pressure to use. When you use a second person, you lose a little > control. > > I too bought the Avery back rivet set (the long set with the bent > neck). I did not like it at all! It was too hard to use and they were > right, if you miss, you will have a real mess on your hands. I liked > the idea of the small back rivet set (with the spring in it). The > spring keeps the rivet guide against the rivet while your riveting and > will not "walk." Cleveland Tools made me a 12" long set with a spring > and it is worth it's weight in gold. You need the long set to clear the > flanges with your gun. You cannot screw up. It's 1000% better than the > long bent neck non-spring version. I just wish I discovered this > before I did my wings. Try it. I guarantee you will like it. > > Joe > RV-8 # 80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
Subject: RV-8 Wing Kit wanted
Date: Sep 13, 2000
Hi listers, Still have to scrape up some cash (two kids in college) but thought I better start looking for a wing kit (RV-8) preferably not started. Winter is a coming, enjoy this weather while you can. Thanks! Jack Textor Elevators RV-8 Des Moines, IA 515-243-7687 wk pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dr Ed.Holland" <cybershrink(at)tinet.ie>
"RV8-List Digest Server"
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/13/00
Date: Sep 19, 2000
----------------------------------------------------- delete> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl>
Subject: airflow performance FS
Date: Sep 24, 2000
I have a AP system for sale It has been used for 50 hours on a O 360 A1A I acquired a new Lyc IO 360 for my RV8 project and had to restore the other one in its original state. Anyone interested please contact me off list. Arnold de Brie ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2000
From: Kevin & Theresa Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Jim Grubbs?
Does anyone have an e-mail address for Jim Grubbs? He is building an RV-8, and he seems to have grafted a forward facing injector onto an O-360 so he could use the IO-360 cowl. I would be interested in doing the same thing, so I would like to pick his brain. Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rvs 4all" <rvs4all(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV kit wanted
Date: Oct 02, 2000
I'm looking for ANY type of RV project that's not completed beyond the "quick build" state. Any kit that has been put together aesthetically nicely and primed up to this point will be considered. email me offline with info. frank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2000
From: "Vern Darley, 11" <vern(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: New Builder question
I am taking the how to build an RV course in Griffin, GA this weekend. In anticipation of beginning an RV-8 soon, I have a few questions. 1-I have seen some very fancy building jigs advertised. However, it seems that the simple ones made of wood as in the plans are adequate. Any opinions out there? 2- What size air compressor is needed? 3-What size/manufacturer rivet gun is best. Any other tool vendors recomended? 4-Some have suggested glueing parts as well as riveting. Any thoughts? Thanks! Vern Peachtree City, Georgia > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: n8rv(at)gte.net
Date: Oct 04, 2000
Subject: Re: New Builder question
Vern-- Here are my opinions on your good questions: > 1-I have seen some very fancy building jigs advertised. However, it seems that the simple ones made of wood as in the plans are adequate. Any opinions out there? Building the jig per the plans with wood is not complicated. I'm not particularly mechanically-minded, and I made it in a day. I measured carefully, and all the bulkheads seemed to line up fine and all my skins went on OK. Any boo-boos I have don't seem to be related to any defect in my jig. So, unless you have a great deal on a steel jig, just spend a few bucks on some wood and bolts and build it like the plans. Then, if it's a good one, pass it on to some other budding builder. > 2- What size air compressor is needed? I have two--a belt-driven Coleman that puts out 7.5 cfm, if I remember correctly, and a small dental compressor that I had lying around. I've used the little dental compressor for everything so far, and it's been great for all the riveting. It's small and quiet, but its little tank doesn't allow for much use of the air drill or die grinder. So, if you plan to use an air drill rather than electric, get a compressor that has a larger tank--I suppose 10-20 gallon--and put up with the noise. You don't need one of those free-standing monsters with the 50,000 gallon tank! > 3-What size/manufacturer rivet gun is best. Any other tool vendors recomended? I'm sure nearly every builder will agree with this advice: BUY GOOD TOOLS! Good tools can be found lots of places, but two that are big in the RV community are Avery (http://www.averytools.com) and Cleaveland (http://www.cleavelandtool.com). They're RV people, and great to work with. Plus, they have pretty much whatever you might need to build your RV, and then some. > 4-Some have suggested glueing parts as well as riveting. Any thoughts? No opinion here. Unfortunately, I didn't hear about epoxying parts until I had already riveted them. There are some places where I probably would've done it, especially with the bulkheads in the fuse. I'm sure that building by riveting alone is plenty strong. I hope that helps you and anyone else with similar questions. --Don McNamara N8RV (fuse) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2000
From: Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Re: New Builder question
At 10/4/00 10:03 AM, you wrote: >1-I have seen some very fancy building jigs advertised. However, it seems >that the simple ones made of wood as in the plans are adequate. Any >opinions out there? The simple ones in the plans are more than adequate! >2- What size air compressor is needed? >I have 60 gal / 5 HP Oil less that is great but makes a lot of noise when >it fires up. General list concensus is I believe to use a belt driven >one. Check the archives for endless discussion on this >3-What size/manufacturer rivet gun is best. Any other tool vendors >recomended? Check the archives for an email submitted by Scott McDaniels (who works for Vans). I use a 3X but I have it throttled down to almost off. If I had to do it over again, I would buy the 2X. Of course you by them both and not worry about it...tool companies like that idea! >4-Some have suggested glueing parts as well as riveting. Any thoughts I am starting the fuselage and have not yet done any glueing of parts that I can remember. You will do fiberglass stuff but that is a different story. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2000
From: "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: New Builder question
Vern, The only comment I can make is about the gluing of parts or better yet, the "bonding" of parts. You won't believe it until you try it! I suggested this on this list awhile ago and know of one other RV-8 builder who is using it and he likes it also. Give it a try on some scrap aluminum if you are totally not sure. BTW, I can not take credit for this idea. I got it from some RV ers in California. Joe (ready to trailer to the airport!!!) "Vern Darley, 11" wrote: > > I am taking the how to build an RV course in Griffin, GA this weekend. In anticipation of beginning an RV-8 soon, I have a few questions. > > 1-I have seen some very fancy building jigs advertised. However, it seems that the simple ones made of wood as in the plans are adequate. Any opinions out there? > > 2- What size air compressor is needed? > > 3-What size/manufacturer rivet gun is best. Any other tool vendors recomended? > > 4-Some have suggested glueing parts as well as riveting. Any thoughts? > > Thanks! Vern > Peachtree City, Georgia > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: prime or powder coat RV-8 LG parts?
Hi folks, I drilled the holes for the landing gear legs on my RV-8 this weekend. I notice that there the outboard U bracket is a very tight fit where it contacts the front and back face of the landing gear leg. Obviously it is designed to make sure there is no slop in the fit. I was planning on powder coating all the landing gear parts, but now I am wondering if the thickness of the coating will cause me grief. Will I have to polish the powder coating off in this area to get it to fit? Would I be better off with epoxy primer? I bet whatever coating I use gets worn off pretty quickly in this area. Any comments from those with flying RV-8s? What kind of lubricant should I use in this area to reduce wear and provide corrosion protection? Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: changed WWW site address
I've been having a lot of problems with XOOM, and I finally found what looks like a better place to host my web site. My RV-8 page can now be found at: http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html My RV Links page is at: http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks.html Please let me know if there are any performance glitches, outages, or broken links. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)aviart.net>
Subject: Re: prime or powder coat RV-8 LG parts?
Date: Oct 10, 2000
When I did my RV-4 a few years ago I had to sand off the Veriprime primer I used on my gear legs where they fit into the engine mount sockets in order to get them to fit - they were that tight. I just coated the joint with a thin layer of grease and installed them that way. I am rebuilding it now and plan on powder coating the parts - but I will mask this area first. Richard -----Original Message----- From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> Date: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:32 PM Subject: RV8-List: prime or powder coat RV-8 LG parts? > >Hi folks, > >I drilled the holes for the landing gear legs on my RV-8 this >weekend. I notice that there the outboard U bracket is a very tight >fit where it contacts the front and back face of the landing gear >leg. Obviously it is designed to make sure there is no slop in the >fit. I was planning on powder coating all the landing gear parts, >but now I am wondering if the thickness of the coating will cause me >grief. Will I have to polish the powder coating off in this area to >get it to fit? Would I be better off with epoxy primer? > >I bet whatever coating I use gets worn off pretty quickly in this >area. Any comments from those with flying RV-8s? What kind of >lubricant should I use in this area to reduce wear and provide >corrosion protection? > >Thanks, >-- >Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) >Ottawa, Canada >http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: RV8 N89GM Certified
Date: Oct 14, 2000
RV8'ers Yesterday RV-8 N89GM passed the certification checkoffs and is legal to fly. I can pass on to you all through email or post some highlights of my build/certification adventures, or answer any questions you might have. So there is an end after all...now if the 700 foot ceiling would just lift a bit. -- Greg Miller Idaho Falls, ID ________________________________________________________________________________
From: W4PPN(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 14, 2000
Subject: Re: RV8 N89GM Certified
Congratulations Greg. My pardoner and I just received our finish kit last week so we have a while before we will be where you are. Sure am getting excited about that first ride, however. Howard Cochran Mooresville, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2000
From: "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: Re: RV8 N89GM Certified
Congrats Greg! I hope to get my inspection this week. Joe Greg Miller wrote: > > RV8'ers > > Yesterday RV-8 N89GM passed the certification checkoffs and is legal to fly. > > I can pass on to you all through email or post some highlights of my > build/certification adventures, or answer any questions you might have. > > So there is an end after all...now if the 700 foot ceiling would just lift a > bit. > > -- Greg Miller > Idaho Falls, ID > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Wanted: RV-8 wing video (Orndorf)
Date: Oct 20, 2000
Does anyone have this video available? If you are in Canada, it would be a bonus :) Are RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TonyKoenig(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 22, 2000
Subject: Re: Wanted: RV-8 wing video (Orndorf)
Sorry I only have the Empennage video. If you get a copy of the wing and all other video's, I would be willing to buy a copy from you. Thanks Tony Koenig ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TonyKoenig(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 22, 2000
Subject: Re: Wanted: RV-8 wing video (Orndorf)
Sorry I only have the Empennage video. If you get a copy of the wing and all other video's, I would be willing to buy a copy from you. Thanks Tony Koenig ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 22, 2000
Subject: Re: Wanted: RV-8 wing video (Orndorf)
Are, We have the RV-8 wing video available. All our videos are listed on our website- www.fly-gbi.com Please let us know if we can help you. Thanks for your interest in our products. George and Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Blake" <danblake(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Completed RV-8 Tail for sale
Date: Oct 25, 2000
I'm loosing my workshop for a few years, and have decided to sell my completed RV-8 empennage. Veriprime interior and electric trim installed. Located in the Atlanta area. Workmanship is near flawless. Built with the help of experienced builder and EAA tech advisor. Spare uncut instrument panel. Preview plans, serial number. Asking $2200. Details: dan(at)thrutech.com or (770) 451-8976 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Oct 29, 2000
yak-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: List REPLY-TO Fuction Restored...
Hi Listers, I noticed a bit of discussion on the List regarding how the Reply-To field was working and there appeared to be some confusion. A couple of months ago I got this great idea to change the way the Reply-To email header was configured so that when a person did a Reply to a message they received from the List, it would by default go back to 1) The List, and 2) the Poster. This would mean in most cases the poster would get two copies of the message. The reason it seemed like a good idea was in the case where someone posted a message to another list that they weren't subscribed to, they would still get a reply back. (You only have to be subscribed to one List to be able to post to any of them.) Anyway, it seemed like a good idea at the time, but it seems to have caused a lot more confusion than it was worth. So, I've returned the configuration back to the way it used to be where a reply will just go back to the List. Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2000
From: "Joseph W. Czachorowski" <midnight(at)udel.edu>
Subject: First Flight
Guys, One word.........AWESOME! N811JC took the skies today on a crisp, clear, beautiful, cool morning. Flight lasted about 20 minutes . Airspeed indicator was a little off and will be addressed before the next flight. Words can hardly express my feelings about this plane right now. The messy pro-seal, the tight fitting gear boxes, the hard to fit canopy skirt and the smelly paint all became worth it after the first flight! Don't give up hope. Those stumbling blocks along the way just make that first flight more enjoyable. This plane truly is awesome. More flying reports to follow in the future. Joe #80125 (Now I know what an "RV Grin" is!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
list-avionics , list-ez , list-glasair , list-lancair , list-rocket , list-rv8
Subject: Heated pitot tube good price
Hello listers, I sent out a post not long ago saying I will continue to sell the AN5814 heated pitot tube at the old price of $199 until all of my current stock is gone, then my price must go up due to increased price from the manufacture. I still have a few. First come first serve. They will go fast now. I also sell the mounting bracket kits for mounting this and the PH502-12CR heated pitot tube. Of course I sell this pitot also. To see these products and others I offer look at my website. The address is: http://www.gretzaero.com I hope to hear from you soon. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List!
Dear Listers, As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a 'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers, however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics servers free to everyone. That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything running and time required to produce new and improved software enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone. On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code base, and developing new utilities for the List community. The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up time for the connection has approached the 99% mark. If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an investment in the future of these Lists. To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has generously made a Contribution this year! Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from all around the world! Sincerely, Matt Dralle Your Email List Administrator dralle(at)matronics.com ============================================================================ >-------------- >--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik > >Well folks, > >I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's >November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is >the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done >for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a >voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution >hot-line at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > >It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy >feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I >relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante >up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can >learn something from the experts........"It's for the children." > >Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high >moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young >charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't >want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and >become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte >provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be >achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite >exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one >(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware >of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach >to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to >Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my >tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment. > >Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > c/o Matt Dralle > Matronics > P.O. Box 347 > Livermore, CA. 94551 > >I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative >advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you >folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign >this November and get out the contributions! AL >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: List Fund Raiser Continues...
Hello Listers! This is just a reminder that the Annual List Fund Raiser is currently underway. Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of this valuable resource? Your Contribution can be made via a Secure SSL Internet Transaction with your Visa or MasterCard at the URL shown below or you may send it via US Mail to the address also listed below. http://www.matronics.com/contribution or c/o Matt Dralle Matronics P.O. Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you for your support! Your generosity directly makes this List possible. Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed
Hi there, I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted until later in the project, to give good access to the forward fuselage. The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had told you before you started? Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: terje.kobro(at)platou.com
Subject: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed
Date: Nov 08, 2000
i had no problem with it- but it took days to get a proper fit , and i had to sschrink and bend the door several times to get a perfect fit.... > -----Original Message----- > From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton(at)cyberus.ca] > Sent: 7. november 2000 23:02 > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)egroups.com > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed > > > > Hi there, > > I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward > baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted > until later in the project, to give good access to the forward > fuselage. > > The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage > door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would > like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out > OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had > told you before you started? > > Thanks, > > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) > Ottawa, Canada > http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Kevin, Like you said, cleco the heck out of the F-821 skin and do the baggage door now. By a silly accident I made mine at this point, then, after I did the final riveting on the 821 I found out that I had used a wrong piece and had to do it over. That was a pain that I would wish on nobody because of the twist in the skin that is set in place by the inside skin that needs to be drilled from the inside. By all means do it now. Although you may want to hold off on trimming the outer door skin on the leading edge until you fit the cowling. Mike Robertson RV-8A N809Rs 1.3 hours and awaiting repair part for next flight >From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)egroups.com >Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed >Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 17:02:24 -0500 > > >Hi there, > >I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward >baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted >until later in the project, to give good access to the forward >fuselage. > >The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage >door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would >like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out >OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had >told you before you started? > >Thanks, > >-- >Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) >Ottawa, Canada >http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed
Problem is... ribs to the door don't match the curve of the skin when installed... I took 7 days and still didn't like the fit... terje.kobro(at)platou.com wrote: > > i had no problem with it- but it took days to get a proper fit , and i had > to sschrink and bend the door several times to get a perfect fit.... > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton(at)cyberus.ca] > > Sent: 7. november 2000 23:02 > > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)egroups.com > > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed > > > > > > > > Hi there, > > > > I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward > > baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted > > until later in the project, to give good access to the forward > > fuselage. > > > > The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage > > door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would > > like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out > > OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had > > told you before you started? > > > > Thanks, > > > > -- > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage 95% done) > > Ottawa, Canada > > http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 baggage door with F-821 only clecoed
Date: Nov 07, 2000
> I'm at the stage of my RV-8 project where I am pondering the forward > baggage door. I'm going to leave my F-821 forward top skin unriveted > until later in the project, to give good access to the forward > fuselage. > > The construction manual says that I can build the forward baggage > door now, as long as I use lots of clecoes in the F-821. I would > like to get comments from people who have done this. Did it work out > OK? Would you do it again? Is there anything you wish someone had > told you before you started? Kevin, In juggling when to paint the interior, getting started on the windscreen, mounting/aligning the baggage door, hanging the engine, etc., I found it easier and more accurate to just rivet the F-821 early on. This gave me lots of options in the construction sequence, not to mention that it is a big of a bugger to rivet on if you wait until installing some things. More stuff installed reduces your access. Also, if you paint before riveting you will scratch your paint big time due to how awkward it is to buck. Perhaps just as importantly I *knew* that the whole front area was locked in so everything could be aligned to it. No question, leaving it off for now gives you more access, but I haven't had any problem yet. No advice on the door itself, just follow manual. Since Scott McDaniels kind of designed the door I think he also wrote that section of the manual. With the usual adjusting and fitting I had no real problem with it. Getting a good fit is time consuming but you've already been through worse. Have fun! Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, painting www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Homebuilt-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
--> Homebuilt-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Zenith-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Rocket-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
--> Rocket-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: RV6-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
--> RV6-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Huge Apology for "List Malfunction"...
Dear Listers, I am so embarrassed by the List-gone-crazy tonight! I'm not sure exactly went wrong. I'm suspecting that someone with an email account at msm.com may have been reposting my message from this morning over and over again maliciously spamming the system, but I can't really prove that. In any case, I am hugely embarrassed and sorry for the ton of messages that went out tonight regarding the 2000 Fund Raiser. Something went wrong on the system or somebody did me wrong; in either case I apologize for the huge dump of messages. My sincerest apologies... Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 13, 2000
Subject: New List MIME/HTML/Enclosure Filter Implemented...
Dear Listers, With the pervasiveness of email applications using HTML (web formatting) and MIME encoding such as AOL 6.0, Netscape, Eudora and others it was clear that I needed to come up with an improved method for limiting how messages posted to the various Lists was handled. As of today, November 13 2000 you should be able to configure your email program any way you like - with or without special formatting - and your message will still be accepted my the Matronics system. Also, if you include any sort of enclosure data, your message will also still be accepted instead of bounced back. But wait, it gets even better! Everything except for the plain text will be automatically stripped from the incoming post including any HTML, MIME, and/or enclosure data prior to redistribution. This should serve to both ease the configuration burden on the many users, and to increase the readability of both the posted messages and the archives. I had a few 'bugs' with the filter on Sunday and Monday morning, so if you received a few messages that seemed "odd", than this was probably why. Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2000
From: Jim Ivey <jim(at)jimivey.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: New List MIME/HTML/Enclosure Filter Implemented...
Everything you need to know can be found at the following url: http://www.matronics.com/contribution/ I just used the secure credit-card option. There is also a snail-mail address for you old-fashioned types (i.e. back in the good old days when folks wouldn't abscond with your credit card info) ;) Jim Ivey N46YK Matt Dralle wrote: > --> Yak-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > Dear Listers, > > With the pervasiveness of email applications using HTML (web formatting) > and MIME encoding such as AOL 6.0, Netscape, Eudora and others it was > clear that I needed to come up with an improved method for limiting how > messages posted to the various Lists was handled. > > As of today, November 13 2000 you should be able to configure your email > program any way you like - with or without special formatting - and your > message will still be accepted my the Matronics system. Also, if you > include any sort of enclosure data, your message will also still be > accepted instead of bounced back. > > But wait, it gets even better! Everything except for the plain text > will be automatically stripped from the incoming post including any > HTML, MIME, and/or enclosure data prior to redistribution. This should > serve to both ease the configuration burden on the many users, and to > increase the readability of both the posted messages and the archives. > > I had a few 'bugs' with the filter on Sunday and Monday morning, so if > you received a few messages that seemed "odd", than this was probably > why. > > Best regards, > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Admin. > > -- > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > Great minds discuss ideas, > Average minds discuss events, > Small minds discuss people... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
Subject: Wanted RV8 wing kit
Date: Nov 14, 2000
Just finishing up the tail and it is time to start thinking about a RV8 wing kit or my kids college. Oh let's go with the wing! Would prefer one that has not been started. Please respond off-line to pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com or call. Thanks! Jack Textor RV8 tail Des Moines, IA 515-243-7687 wk 515-277-4173 hm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 2000
Subject: NEW CARB AND FUEL PUMP FOR SALE
LW-15472 FUEL PUMP = $185.00 MA 4-5 CARB .. NO CORE4 EXCHANGE = $650.00 RESPOND OFF LIST TO...... SALNED71(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gosh2Fly(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 18, 2000
Subject: Rv8 QB for sale
Rv-8QB FOR SALE , 23K LOCATED IN CENTRAL FLA. RESPOND TO GOSH2FLY(at)AOL.COM. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: What Listers Are Saying...
Date: Nov 20, 2000
Matt, I think what you're doing is great for those of us flying and building Kolb aircraft. You're probably saving Kolb a full time employee in tech support just by providing the communication between builders. I know I have had a half dozen questions answered here on the list and saved Kolb support a few phone calls. You should forward this letter to Kolb, maybe they'd ante up, too. It would be great PR for the TN Kolb a/c. Thanks a bunch, Matt! Ken Broste Building a Firestar Tucson, AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 10:33 AM Subject: Kolb-List: What Listers Are Saying... > --> Kolb-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > > Dear Listers, > > During this year's List Fund Raiser I have been receiving a number of > very nice comments from members regarding what the Lists mean to them. > I'm sure most everyone can echo one or more of the thoughts expressed > below. Won't you take a moment to make a Contribution to support the > continued operation and improvment of your Lists? > > A special 'thank you' to everyone that has made a contribution so far > and for all of the wonderful and supportive comments I've received! > > > To make a contribution with a credit card over an SSL Secure Web Site, > please go to the following URL: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > or, to make a contribution with a person check, please mail it to: > > Matronics > c/o Matt Dralle > PO Box 347 > Livermore, CA 94551 > > > Thank you!! > > Matt Dralle > Email List Admin. > > > ===================== Comments From List Members ======================== > > > * You helped make this dream a reality... -Terry C. > > * Thanks for a wonderful resource! -Rick J. > > * Thanks for providing a quality product. -Bill C. > > * Have found [the List] invaluable for education while building... -Rick H. > > > * I learn so much from the List! -Robert R. > > * [The List] is better than any aviation magazines I subscribe o. -Roger H. > > * I enjoy the pages and find them very helpful. -Noel G. > > * The "List" is a great place to both receive and exten help and ideas for > building and making flying safer. -Jack B. > > > * The discussions are very helpful. -James B. > > * ...I believe this List will be a better value than the ewsletter. -Roger T. > > * [The List] has helped me with the construction of my RV-9. -Marty S. > > * VERY good reading. Excellent entertainment value. -Jerry I. > > > * [The List] has saved me many hour on wild goose chases. -Billy W. > > * Thanks for keeping my passion for flying as piqued as ever. -Terry W. > > * Keep up the nice work. -Daniel H. > > * Thanks for all the effort on behalf of Sport Aviation! -Elbie M. > > > * ...Great information source! -Richard W. > > * ...Thanks for your help and patience with a very difficult ask. -Louis W. > > * [The List] has been a great asset. -Edward C. > > * Just started and already received some valuable tips. -Scott S. > > > * Thanks for the List to let up share our passion. -Brian A. > > * ...This List is good stuff. -Russ D. > > * ...The single most helpful resource I've come across in uilding. -Craig P. > > * ...Enjoy [the List] a lot. -John H. > > > * The List is a most important tool to help building. -Brad R. > > * ...Really found the List to be great! -Geoff T. > > * Excellent contribution to the aviation community. -Larry B. > > * Great source of information... -William G. > > > * The Lists ... make building a real hoot! -Jeff O. > > * The List has been invaluable. -Matt P. > > * Thanks for letting me use the site. It's great! -Larry M. > > * ...This List has been very helpful. -Larry H. > > > * Greatest support ever for the builders and I have met many riends. -Fred H. > > * ...I love this List and have met many new friends... -Tom E. > > * Love both the List and the Search Engine. -Roy G. > > > ===================== Comments From List Members ======================== > > > -- > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > Great minds discuss ideas, > Average minds discuss events, > Small minds discuss people... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2000
From: Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Fund Raiser
Hi Matt, "The check's in the mail!" Well, not quite, but it goes out tomorrow. I have unsubscribed from the RV-List because I have put my RV plans on hold, and because of the sheer volume of posts. However, I still am on the RV-8 List. Also, though I am staying in the certificated aircraft world for the time being, I still search the archives periodically for input on various components and accessories, operational techniques, etc. Like any public forum, you can't accept it all as gospel, but there is certainly a wealth of valuable information available from the list. I am currently shopping for an engine monitor. Did JPI ever get their act together, or are they still hassling you? If they have not backed off I will not consider any of their products. Thanks you for providing a valuable service to experimental AND general aviation. Sincerely, Tim Bronson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gaylen Lerohl" <lerohl@rea-alp.com>
Subject: Re: Good Shipping Company??
Date: Dec 12, 2000
Check with some local independent truckers. You will likely find one who will have room on a back haul. The cost should be considerably less than the quotes you have. Just this week I had a quote to move 9,000 lbs. 700 miles for $680.00. Gaylen ----- Original Message ----- From: Jack Textor <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 12:29 PM Subject: RV8-List: Good Shipping Company?? > > Hi Friends, > I need to ship an rv8 wing kit from the Dayton, Ohio area to Des Moines, IA. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Shipping Costs $600 vs. $167
Date: Dec 13, 2000
Thanks to Terry Watson and others who helped with my question regarding shipping costs. When I specified my contents as "aluminum sheet, aluminum bar and angle" (shippers code 13560) instead of an RV8 wing kit, the same shipper reduced the cost from $600 to $167. To pick up or deliver to a home instead of business they ad $28 on each end. Thanks, RV8 Des Moines, IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2000
Subject: For Sale: O-360 Carb and Fuel Pump
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
New MA-4-5 carb (shipping box unopenned) and LW15472 mechanical fuel pump for sale. Both off of new Van's O-360 A1A engine. MA-4-5 carb (Lycoming part #71710) - $700 LW15472 fuel pump - $100 Carl Froehlich RV-8A (engine baffles) Vienna, VA (703) 319-3794 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Rib to Spar - Design flaw?
Date: Dec 17, 2000
Am I missing something? It seems to weird that only I have this problem. I have made the following web page to prove to Van's that all these ribs must be repaired in order to pass inspection (at least here in Canada). Here's a link that I will send Van's that should illustrate the problem very well: Please have a look if you're building an RV-8. http://www.bconnex.net/~abarstad/RibToSpar.html Are RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Electric Bobs new email?
Date: Dec 22, 2000
Hi from cold Des Moines, Anybody know Electric Bob's new email and phone? Thanks, Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Bobs new email?
Date: Dec 22, 2000
> Anybody know Electric Bob's new email and phone? > Thanks, nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 25, 2000
From: Dean <dweb5(at)adams.net>
Subject: Aileron fitting RV8 QB
I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron and the flap. The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets. The brackets are predrilled. The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to the wing in the case of the QB kit is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then you fit the flap to the aileron. Is this correct? If so, what is the best way to hold the bellcrank in the neutral position? The plans call a 2 1/2 in. dimension from the spar web to the center of the rod end bearing bolt hole. I've got my wing upside down in a holder like you use for the fuel tanks. As an alternate to the airfoil template, wouldn't tapeing some 1 by 2's to the wing that extends over the trailing edge so as to conform to the shape of the wing, work as well or better for fairing the aileron as the airfoil template? The AN3 bolts that fit the various powder coated brackets is a very tight fit, if they fit at all. Can I ream the brackets with a 3/16 reamer? The brass bushing for the aileron bellcrank is to small for the AN4 bolt, is reaming with a 1/4 in. reamer using a drill press the best option? Thanks Dean RV-8A QB Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Aileron fitting RV8 QB
Date: Dec 25, 2000
I have a slow build, but ... I used some side-grip clecos and a couple pieces of angle going to a near-by rib to hold the bellcrank in the recommended spot. I used strips of wood that were about 1.5" x 3/8" x 8' for alignment. Pix are on the web site under "more wings". I successfully used a drill bit where needed on the bellcrank and bushing. A reamer would be even better. Larry Bowen RV-8 gearboxes Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com Web: http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean > Sent: Monday, December 25, 2000 2:46 AM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Aileron fitting RV8 QB > > > I'm working on the wing of an RV-8A -QB, getting ready to fit the aileron > and the flap. > The aileron spar is already predrilled #30 holes for the attach brackets. > The brackets are predrilled. > The hinges are predrilled to the spar. So the fitting of the aileron to > the wing in the case of the QB kit > is just trying to trail the aileron to the wing using the adjustment on > the push rod with the bellcrank in the neutral position. Then > you fit the > flap to the aileron. Is this correct?


September 11, 1999 - December 25, 2000

RV8-Archive.digest.vol-aa